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Hello folks.

My computer has 4 slots for Ram, and 2 slots were filled with 1gb sticks each. I RECENTLY just bought another 2gb stick of Ram and after I slotted it in, the monitor wasn't picking up signal. I took the new Ram out and the computer worked again, so I started messing about with slots and it seems that no matter what order I PUT the Ram in, it won't allow me to go over 3gb of ram even though my ASRock ConRoe1333-DVI/H motherboard states that it...

"...Supports Dual Channel DDR2 667/533 x 4 DIMM slots with max. capacity up to 4GB".

I was hoping to get it to 4gb, so I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how I get around this.

Thanks for your time
James. Quote

*Before you install memory module on this motherboard, please read below message to avoid any improper installation:

» Due to chipset LIMITATION, if you plan to install three or four memory modules on this motherboard, please install only single-sided memory modules.
» To install two memory modules on this motherboard, please install them on DDRII_1 and DDRII_3 DIMM sockets.

For the detailed installation information, please refer to the user manual or quick installation guide.

**Due to the chipset limitation, the actual memory size may be less than 4GB for the reservation for system usage under Windows® XP, Windows® XP 64-bit, Windows® Vista™ and Windows® Vista™ 64-bit.

i just fix a DC jack for a "acer aspire 3680" its an old laptop that was collecting dust that i finally decided to fix.now since its working its asking me for a "primary master hdd user password" i forgot what was the password,is there anyway i can bypass this without changing the hard drive?NOPE...no HOPE at all.Hi

For free you can google "ata password reset"  the programs that are free will erase the whole drive.

AFF repair station (another google) will reset the password for a cost without loosing the data.

But ALSO there is no limit to how many passwords you can try so keep TRYING, 

Lisamaree I'll stand by my reply...but good luck with the options mentioned above.

when i start my pc, i PUT bios password. then windows logo comes up, starting windows and screen goes blue and i can see a mouse pointer only. I am using desktop with win7 and 2 gb ramWas there any HARDWARE change / added recently to this computer?What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?No, sir there is not any change and the machine was working fine.....1) Tell US about your computer (specs, make & model)

2) Can you boot to safe mode?

3) What anti virus ap are you running?machine's make is HCL, win 7,make is of Sep 2011
i can't boot to safe mode also..
antivirus is norton.What is the make and model of your computer?

What happens when you try to boot to safe mode?

If you want help you need to start PROVIDING details - as much useful information as you can.make:  HCL , desktop, tft monitor
Model: Sep11
When i boot to safe mode then also same problem.. Blue/Black  screen with mouse pointer which I can move around...If you have another video card you can try I'd suggest doing that before we go any further. Let's rule out (or in) the obvious.press ctrl alt DRL nd select task manager then application then new task and in open dialouge type explorer.exe and it will allow you acess ur desktop...But Sir, when this black screen and only mouse pointer comes then nothing else comes.there is only black screen and mouse pointer appears and pointer can be moved all over the screen.You can safely ignore his advice above....
Try this link:

http://superuser.com/questions/5664/how-do-i-make-windows-7-boot-further-than-a-blank-screen-with-only-a-mouse-cursoI have tried several things. But finally I reinstalled windows and it worked for me. Thanks to all for your suggestions.

BSOD video_tdr_failure atikmpag.sys
hello, im having some issues with my computer, most of the times when i'm playing a game, the screen starts GOING black, then it goes normal, and it gets a bsod with the message "video_tdr_failure atikmpag.sys", it wasn't bothering me for some time, but recently iv benn playing terraria with some friends, and i got my world corrupted 2 times, and I got really mad, so can anyone TELL me how to fix this?
heres my pc:
toshiba c850-125 dWhat Operating system are you using?windows 8Please check if your graphics/VIDEO drivers are upto date.yes they are version 13.9 amd catalyst control centerbumpLook in Device Manager. Are there any yellow or RED symbols? If not, and if you have a different video card I'd suggest trying it. If not, PURCHASE a new card from a retailer who will accept a return if that's not the problem (though it probably is).I didnt see any Win8 drivers at the Toshiba siteSorry - didn't realize this is a laptop. Please disregard my post above.yeah its a laptop, i bought it almost a year ago, it came with windows 8bump

Hello i just upgraded my graphics card but now when i start my PC it freezes on the screen where i enter my password. The PC allows me to boot when i use SAFE mode

GTX 770 2GB OC Version
Coolermaster 500W
GByte B85M-D3H MOBO
Intel Core i5 4430 S1150 Ret
What card did you have installed before this one, and what OS / version are you running? Quote from: DaveLembke on November 06, 2013, 01:57:03 PM

What card did you have installed before this one, and what OS / version are you running?

Too many zeroes...post the entire BSOD message.

so basically i can turn it on, then when i turn the monitor on it shows a BLACK screen

monitor display
VGA - no signal input
> DVI - no signal input

the arrow is pointing to the dvi option, when i use a vga cable. after this shows for about 5 seconds, the screen goes black and says 'monitor is going to sleep' then it stays black after that. when it used to work, it used to have something on vga saying that's what i use and just start up normally. i don't even remember anymore, my computer hasn't been in use for over a year because of this issue. i want to fix it because it's still a reasonably good computer.  i've tried things LIKE unplugging all the cords then putting them all back in and turning it back on and it still continues to do this. i've even changed the vga cord but the problem still happens. it's a hp pavillion w1907, on windows vista if that helps?

also, i know the monitor works alright because i plugged it into my laptop and it showed EVERYTHING clearly with no problems.Have you tested the monitor on another computer?

Have you tested another monitor on your computer? Quote from: JJ 3000 on October 28, 2011, 10:21:23 PM

Have you tested the monitor on another computer?

Have you tested another monitor on your computer?

I have tried all of that, and my monitor still won't work. It won't pick up a disc to install the video graphics card

My current computer is Dell laptop with Intel Pentium CPU B940 2.00GHz,  4.00GB RAM and 283 GB hard drive. It is sometimes frustratingly slow when multi-tasking or playing games and I'd like to get one that is much faster.

When shopping for a new computer and wanting one that will multi-task very well, should I pay attention to the brand of processor or how many GHz or is the RAM more important? Does the size of the hard drive matter?

Also, does it matter if I buy a computer with Intel or AMD processor? Which brand do people think PERFORMS better?

Thanks for any advice/help with this Biggest question is what software do you run on it?

If you will be playing video games etc, then you will need a good CPU and good GPU or an APU type system that is a better performer than other APU's.

As far as Intel or AMD it all is personal preference as far as the brand goes. I generally go with AMD to save money and get equal performance to an Intel product but at a savings. I havent had any problems with AMD products and have been running systems on both AMD and Intel processors since 1998. AMD processors have been known to run slightly hotter than the Intel same processing power competetor CPU and require more power to run them.

I have had both Intel and AMD based Laptops and both create lots of heat when gaming, however the AMD laptop produces more heat but still operates within its thermal specs of safe operation.

** Looking over your existing system, I am curious as to what applications you are running that slow it down. If you are playing any resource intensive game on this processor and trying to play iTunes, and surf the web at the same time etc with downloads going on etc I can SEE this CPU struggling some, however if you are multitasking with a MS Office product and have iTunes running, and browser with multiple pages loaded without video content playing or flash games on them at the same time, this slow down may be able to be resolved by cleaning up resource HOGS. One of the biggest resource hogs is Norton 360 and other Norton System Protection utilities as well as McAfee on systems.

So if you would like to try to optimize what you already have without spending money on a new computer we can assist in cleaning it up and making it run better, however if its time for change or you are using it for gaming, then its time for a new laptop and we can assist with specs on that as well.

Answering questions:

CPU Speed does matter, but the strength of the cores is as important as the clock rate. For gaming generally 2.5Ghz or faster is best, however I have seen some strong performing CPUs that run between 2.0 and 2.5Ghz that are plenty for specific games. Generally the faster the clock speed the more heat they give off when processing, however when the computer is idle it may use Cool n' Quiet (AMD) or Speed Stepping (Intel) to downclock a CPU to 1/4 of its normal clock speed so a 2Ghz CPU idles at like 500Mhz and runs cool as well as saves the battery life. Then as soon as processing power is needed it will run at 500, 1000, 1500, or full speed at 2000Mhz ( = 2Ghz ).

Hard Drives make a difference, especially if your looking into one with a SSD ( Solid State Drive ) which will give you the best performance out there, however with a SSD your generally sacrificing storage capacity for speed, although now with the pricing coming down and most users happy with just 256GB of space, some may not feel like they are taking a data storage capacity hit going with an SSD.

Hard drives that are in lower cost laptops HDD's its best to have a drive that is 7200RPM's vs 5400RPM's as for it makes a difference in how fast the data can be accessed and written to the platters, so usually 7200 RPM drives are better unless lacking in Cache etc in which a 5400 RPM woth more Cache can sometimes outperform the 7200 RPM drive, however generally the 7200 RPM is the better buy. * If you want greater than 256GB of storage capacity or dont want to buy one at the premium cost with a 256GB SSD installed, you will want to go with a HDD.

As far as RAM ( memory ) goes these days, I have seen most shipping with 6GB or more of memory, however the bargain laptops are still shipping with 4GB RAM. *The biggest concern with buying a new laptop is not limiting your upgrade path, that is if its for SALE with 4GB of RAM, make sure that its not limited to a maximum of 4GB of RAM. * I bought a cheap laptop the other day for $269.99 which I checked all the specs out and I knew before buying it that it ships with 4GB RAM and it can not take more than 4GB of RAM, but its far better than the Intel Atom Netbook that I have been using that is limited to 2GB of RAM of which was purchased with 1GB RAM. For long term use you will probably want to find a laptop that can take up to 8GB or RAM or more and ships with 6GB or more.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For Intel CPUs I suggest Core i3, Core i5 or if you really need the heavy processing power a Core i7.

For AMD CPUs I suggest Quadcore ( X4 ) or better and 2.0Ghz or faster for normal use and light gaming and 2.5Ghz or faster for gaming, however if you are trying to cut costs you can go with an X2 (Dual) or an X3 (Tripple) core CPU. AMD has some X6 ( Six Core ) and X8 (Eight Core ) CPU's out there that run into the 4.0Ghz range, but they are more common to desktop computers for gaming vs laptops. I would suggest better than a X2 Dual Core AMD as for the benchmark will likely be similar to the processing power of your existing system unless its a screaming clock rate Dual-Core in the 3.0+Ghz range which most X2's are slower than 3Ghz and only be interested in a X2 AMD CPU if it was loaded with L2 and L3 Cache like a Phenom II CPU etc.

*Generally the Laptops with AMD CPU's will be slightly cheaper than those with the Intel CPU's of matching processing power, however there are some deals out there to be found. In a store with laptops on the shelf for sale you have to be really careful not to buy one that is equal to or less than what you already have for processing power. Walmart for example has some AMD based laptops that run at like 1Ghz and 1.6Ghz that are weaklings for anything beyond Facebook, Web Surfing, and maybe watching Netflix without much multitasking happening and patience in giving the slow processors time to launch programs.

To be sure you get a laptop that is best matched for your needs sharing what you need to run on it and laptops you have in mind we can suggest the best purchase for you  The hard drive says it has 83GB space left. The computer usually runs acceptably fast when the hard drive has about 150GB free space but if it gets anywhere close to 80GB free space it slows considerably, which I don't understand. I deleted original virus protection software and other unnecessary stuff and have Microsoft security essentials instead. The computer runs Windows 7 OS (not pro or anything just regular 64 bit). I typically play apps on facebook and listen to music on Windows Media player and also have pages open for other stuff I'm doing or reading online (shopping, news pages, etc) and may also at times have uTorrent running and downloading stuff simultaneously. I prefer Google Chrome and very often have at least 10 tabs open. That didn't used to be a problem but lately the computer runs very slow if I'm playing a game and listening to videos on YouTube or Sirius radio or something. Google chrome often freezes up and also even my folders freeze up when I trying to search for a file. It's just annoying. The computer always does it's updates/de-frag by itself to keep up with that and I'm always deleting stuff to try to make more room on the hard drive. I save web pages often with recipes or news articles and I discovered that oddly that seemed to make the computer run slowly. Once, after I deleted a 4bg folder of saved recipes, the computer sped up considerably. I couldn't understand why that should make any significant difference, as it was only 4gb of files. My old desktop computer ran Windows XP and often my hard drive had less than 30gb free space and I saved many web pages and did not find that same issue happening with that computer. I WONDER if Windows 7 just does not organize the files efficiently on the hard disc?I forgot to mention, I always have my laptop sitting on flat surface and also on top of a laptop cooling pad that has built-in fans. I got this computer at WalMart and since I've had it will often make a funny noise followed by a click sound and I get a pop-up message about some thing (diagnostic module?) stopped responding. That happens at least once a day. I've wondered if Dell just used cheap parts in the models that are sold through WalMart. The exact same model of computer I have was advertised with 600GB hard drive at Amazon, which I did not see until after buying it at WalMart.

Some models of new computers I was viewing online said they had "Dual Core" processor. Does that mean there are two processors? Does having two make a significant difference in speed?Laptop or Desktop ? ?

Budget ? ?

Where are you located ? ?

Hi!

I've been having this problem for ages, my USB 3.0 external hard drive will not connect to my USB 3.0 port (Doesn't show up in my computer). The weird thing is that it is actually able to connect to the USB 2.0 port. On the other hand, when I try to connect a USB 2.0 device to the USB 3.0 port, it works just fine. What is happening here? Is there something wrong with my hardware?

Thanks,
BrianSounds like an incompatibility issue which can usually be solved with a DRIVER and/or firmware update but we'll need more information to help you do this.
What are your system specs?  If it's a system you built yourself, please let us know the motherboard - if it's a prebuilt system, we'll need the make and model of the PC.Need more info, but inserting a 3.0 plug into a 3.0 receptacle requires more force because there are 5 more contacts to mate.  2.0 has 4 contacts, 3.0 has 9 contacts.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Thanks for the replies!

Calum, my computer is an ASUS A75VM (laptop). So am I supposed to press my USB in further according to Computer_Commando?

Edit: Pressing it in harder did in fact work, but I doesn't seem to be very stable. It WOULD eject itself even when I BARELY touch the cable. Is this just how USB 3.0 ports are designed, or am I missing something? Quote

...So am I supposed to press my USB in further according to Computer_Commando?

Edit: Pressing it in harder did in fact work, but I doesn't seem to be very stable. It would eject itself even when I barely touch the cable. Is this just how USB 3.0 ports are designed, or am I missing something?

Need more info, but inserting a 3.0 plug into a 3.0 receptacle requires more force because there are 5 more contacts to mate.  2.0 has 4 contacts, 3.0 has 9 contacts.

Thanks for the replies!

Calum, my computer is an ASUS A75VM (laptop). So am I supposed to press my USB in further according to Computer_Commando?

Edit: Pressing it in harder did in fact work, but I doesn't seem to be very stable. It would eject itself even when I barely touch the cable. Is this just how USB 3.0 ports are designed, or am I missing something?

Plug or receptacle is damaged.

Plug or receptacle is damaged.

Try it on another computer and see what happens, but it may also be worth simply getting a new cable, if your USB3 flash drive works fine on the same port then it's more likely to be the cable rather than the receptacle on the laptop.

I am running an AMD 64Bit single core processor on a Biostar NF61S Motherboard with 2 GB of RAM  with a Radeon GRAPHICS Card.I am currently running PCLinux 32Bit OS,but other OS's have had the same problem including Windows on this computer.When I clear the Bios chip on the Motherboard and restart the Hard drive is found again but the Operating system cannot be repaired,so I have to REINSTALL the OS but it isnt long before the same problem reappears!Is this likely to be a Hardware problem?and what component may be causing it?  Michael NB I have DONE a Memory test which shows up as OK,also tested the Western Digital SATA Hard drive which shows no bad sectors and healthy.How did you test the HDD ? ?
You may want to try another HDD cable as well...If Hard disk is detected randomly, I would change the Hard disk data cable as suggested above.Tks I will give that a try..NB Hard Drive tested with Western Digital Software and found all good..Michael

I have a custom made computer, it's about 6 years old.  It won't power up any of the peripherals.  The fan in the PSU runs, but I don't THINK that means much if it's not putting out the wattage.  It is a 600W Thermaltake PSU 24 pin.  I know a little about computers, I can  install a video card, cd/dvd player, HDD, cpu and fan, etc... basic plug and play stuff. 

I purchased a Power Supply Tester.  I hooked the power supply up to it, plugged it in and turned it on.  all the lights flashed GREEN for a moment, then the only light that remained lit was the +5vsb light, nothing else.  No beeping nothing.  I then took the power supply out of the machine I am on now, I put it on the Power Supply Tester, I got a long beep, then a really quick short beep, and then every light on the right side of the panel lit up.

So, does this mean, that the 600w Thermaltake is dead?


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]My guess is the PSU is OK, but something is sucking a lot of current.
Quote from: trixlette on November 02, 2013, 05:53:46 PM

...So, does this mean, that the 600w Thermaltake is dead?

I have a desktop computer with a gigabyte GA-870a-UD3 motherboard, AMD Phenom X6 1100T CPU, xtremegear XG-P700 power supply, GTX460 graphics card.

Symptoms:
My problems started yesterday, when I tried to turn on my computer after not using it for a week.  It wouldn't boot, sometimes freezing at the BIOS splash screen, sometimes not loading the BIOS at all but the fans just whirring, sometimes taking a long time to load the BIOS, but eventually doing so and booting fine.  Once it froze at the windows login screen, and it also sometimes booted up normally.  However, after a couple hours of gaming, it froze.  I took off the case and laid my computer on its side, as it previously had issues overheating. This seemed to make it boot up easier, and when I put it upright and closed the case, it wouldn't boot.  at one point I put the computer upright while it was on, and this caused it to immediately crash.  While it was working, I did get I chance to monitor the temperature while I was gaming, and it did not seem excessively high (45C while idling, 60C while gaming.  my previous problems were due to crashes at exactly 62C, but I had since fixed a motherboard setting and it had operated at well above 62C without any problems).  Today, I have tried to get it to turn on several times, and the best I have gotten is freezing at the BIOS splash.  It still seemed to be sensitive to being upright vs on its side, but at this point it's deteriorated to the point that nothing I can do will make anything happen beyond turning on the fans.

What I have tried:
I have tried removing the CMOS battery and replacing it.
I have tried resetting the BIOS using the jumper pins according to the instructions in the motherboard manual.
I have tried reseating the RAM and GPU, as well as disconnecting and reconnecting all the internal connections.
I have tried disconnecting everything (including all power) from the motherboard except the keyboard (my keyboard has a light on it which turns on when the BIOS loads)
I've tried disconnecting everything except the GPU.
I have tried testing the power supply using the paperclip method: the power to the motherboard and GPU are all well within the tolerances.
I have looked inside the case and shaken it up for any spare parts causing shorts

throughout all of this, I have gotten exactly the same result: power on CAUSES fans to spin, and the power button light to turn on, and absolutely nothing else.  The power button will work if you hold it for 5 seconds, and that is it.

What I THINK I have ruled out:
I don't think it could be a problem with any of my drives, as nothing works even when they are completely disconnected
I don't think it is my keyboard as the light on my keyboard was still turning on even when my computer froze at the BIOS splash screen, and it still doesn't load at all when I disconnect my keyboard.
I don't think it's my RAM, as it still wouldn't work when I removed all my RAM
I don't think it's my videocard, as my USB keyboard will not light up even when the GPU is removed.
I don't think it's my power supply as I checked all the voltages and they are correct.

At this point that leaves me thinking it's something wrong with my motherboard or CPU.   Any help at this point would be appreciated.

Also, one last thing, my computer does not beep at all when turning on.  One of my drives did when it was connected (even when the BIOS wouldn't load) but the stripped down system does not make any beeping noises (which I know can be error codes).Your paperclip test does not rule out a flakey PSU...borrow 1 of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...

That being stated if it doesn't power up properly you need to remove the components from the case and do a proper bench-test ADDING 1 component at a time before you assume it's the MBoard or CPU...or both.
Post back with results.

P.S. Remove the vid card for this test as it may be a likely culprit...and use only 1 stik of RAM for your bench-test.Thank you, I don't have access to another power supply at this point, but I will try a bench test roughly following these instructions: http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f255/how-to-bench-test-troubleshoot-your-system-171424.htmlLooks like you found a good guide to get started...bring us good news.I set up a bench test, just the power supply, motherboard, 1 stick of RAM, and the graphics card.  the fans all run, but there is no output to the screen, and the keyboard light does not turn on.  I also tried without the graphics card, and the keyboard still did not light up.  There were no beeps.PS2 or USB keyboard ? ?
Try without the vid card as suggested above...this is a known good monitor...correct ?I tried it without the video card.  Nothing happens except the fans spinning.  The monitor is known good (currently working with my laptop).

The keyboard is USB, not PS2Do you have a speaker you could attach to the front panel connector on the motherboard.
This will beep in a pattern if the computer can't display.
There are tables to decode the beep sequence and point to where the problem could be.

 
Quote from: jeremysalwen on October 30, 2013, 06:33:17 PM

...I took off the case and laid my computer on its side, as it previously had issues overheating. This seemed to make it boot up easier, and when I put it upright and closed the case, it wouldn't boot.  at one point I put the computer upright while it was on, and this caused it to immediately crash....

How would I test this? I tried swapping the pump and radiator fans power connectors (the theory being that the motherboard detected the pump not working and thus refused to boot) but nothing changed.  No video, no beep, no light.  Why would a cooler failure cause this problem where the BIOS won't even load?  would it be through permanent damage to my CPU?

Hello,
I have a problem with my keyboard layout, the model is a asus N53JF laptop windows 7.
some of the buttons have a weird layout, for example:
when I press K it writes the TIMESTAMP+k or when i press 6 or J it writes 6j.
i tried to reinstall drivers, virus+malware check, change keyboards input, and region and LANGUAGES changes. but the problem stays the same in any language! if i connect an external keyboard it works fine.
I realized when i press SHIFT+K only a timestamp appears and when i press ALT+k only k appears.
i would really appreciate any kind of help
thank you!
Plug a USB Keyboard into the laptop and try typing and see if it also HAPPENS with a different keybpard input. If problem goes away with external desktop keyboard connected while typing on desktop keyboard but still remains on laptop keyboard then the laptop keyboard MAY be defective. However if the problem remains with a desktop keyboard added then there are some KEY bindings that are macro'd to be process a function in a single key stroke.OP said:
Quote

f i connect an external keyboard it works fine.

I have an Acer X1300 cpu. The power button is KINDA broken so I turned it on and off by switching on and off the main plug. It worked just fine for a year or so, but recently, when I turned it on, it got stuck on the acer screen. I couldn't press either Delete or F12 or any other keys. I tried to turn it off and on repeatedly so that the safe mode screen appear, but it didn't SHOW up. I disconnected every cable connected (excluding the power cable and the cable that CONNECTS it to the monitor) but still no luck. I removed all usb devices, sd cards and cds, but still nothing happened. I tried inserting the recovery disc but nothing happened. I have ran out of ideas. Pleeease.. someone.. help me. ; w ;Try all methods suggested below one by one and try if any of the solution works.

1) If you are using a USB keyboard, Use a PS/2 keyboard and check if keyboard works. Try to enter BIOS and load fail safe defaults. Press F10 to save and exit.

2) Check the Ram Modules. If you have TWO of them, try with one by one.
3) Make sure the inside of the cpu case is clean / dust free. If not, use air blower to blow out dust (Do NOT use a vacuum cleaner).
Most importantly the RAM slots and the Fan over CPU should be free of dust. Use something like unused new paint brush to clean RAM slot.

4) Check CMOS battery. If you have a voltmeter / multimeter, check the voltage of the CMOS battery, should read 3v or more than 3volts.
5) Remove all addon cards and check with only RAM and CPU/ Heatsink.
6) Check for any blown capacitors on the motherboard. Example: http://archive.siliconchip.com.au/static/images/articles/i303/30328_4lo.jpg The red arrows shows blown / leaked capacitors. The first three capacitors from left shows good / normal capacitors.
7) Try with another PSU / SMPS.

Hello All!

I have an Epson wi-fi printer model XP-310.

The issue is it will say "Out of Paper" when paper is loaded, or alternatively, will say "Paper Jam" when no paper jam is present.

To reproduce this, I only need to print ANYTHING.

The exact steps that happen are:

1. I ATTEMPT to print a document.

2. Printer says "Printing..." and will spool out 2-3 sheets of paper.

3. This step has two outcomes. Either:
    a. Printer says "Out of paper. Please load paper." even if paper is still present in the loading tray. Attempting to print again will result in paper being fed through with same response.
    b. Printer says "Paper Jam. Please remove jammed paper." HOWEVER, no paper is jammed. Attempting to print again results in paper being fed through with same response.

Printing when directly connected to printer or over wi-fi gives same result.

However, when printing pages such as the printer test PAGE, it prints fine all of the TIME. When printing scanned pages, prints about 50% of the time, only giving the "Out of Paper" message, never "Paper Jam".

The problem occurs 100% when sending a page to be printed over wi-fi, using cloud print services, using my phone, and my laptop.

I've only had this printer a few months, and I'd hate to buy another so soon, but of course the warranty is already over. I am pulling my hair out over this, because it prints the diagnostic pages fine, so it is obvious it works.

I have tried dusting out the inside with a can of air but that didn't make any difference. I have checked the sensors inside (or what looks like sensors) but nothing seems blocked or OBSTRUCTED. It feeds though the blank paper but doesn't print.

Thank you for any assistance!Sorry the printer has a logic board fault. It should have had at least a 1 year warranty ? also if you said you were having the same problem printing test pages then I would suspect a faulty cartridge.
Try the warranty as there is nothing that can be done with a printer showing those symptoms.
Make sure if you do take it back it has Epson cartridges installed.  Oh okay, thanks! Unfortunately it had only a 90 day warranty according to the paperwork but maybe if I contact Epson they will be understanding.

If it matters, I always used the Epson cartridges...even if this isn't the cheapest printer, the cartridges are pretty cheap.

Thanks for the help!

I have a nexus 7 2nd Gen and am wanting to convert some vinyl to mp3.  The turntable I bought came with audacity software and I was going to use that with my laptop until it broke. Wanted to see if anyone out there has found a way to use USB connection from turntable to tablet and a different program that can do this or is it going to require a standard PC OS? Your PROBABLY going to need a regular PC. You can probably pick up a good working used computer for under $100 that can achieve this purpose. If you find a used computer for sale and are not sure if its a good buy or not, link its specs here and we can tell you if its a good deal or not for the price being offered. The turntable likely had drivers that allow it to function that are specific to running on a PC, and this is going to be a problem with that tablet. *Also if the turn table is powered off of USB 5 volt power source to spin the record etc you will run into an issue where you dont have the amperage to drive the motor that spins the record.

The closest thing you might find for the tablet is a format converter such as Wave to MP3 etc, but not a turn table connection to the tablet and have it WORK.Amazon and others have things to expand the MIC input of iPhone and android DEVICES. They are mono.
Do your need stereo?
You can get a stereo to USB device also.
Never used one.
Hi

To use the usb turntable if it is powered from the usb port you would need a powered usb hub.
And a OTG Cable like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Samsung-Galaxy-Toshiba-Archos/dp/B005OOJPKS

For software try this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.extreamsd.usbaudiorecorderpro

Thank you

Lisamaree



The OP mentioned Audacity, a general purpose stereo editor.
Audacity can be safely downloaded from Source Forge.
http://audacity.sourceforge.net/
Note this is the windows version. Quote from: Lisa_maree on October 30, 2013, 02:21:33 AM

Hi

To use the usb turntable if it is powered from the usb port you would need a powered usb hub.
And a OTG Cable like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Samsung-Galaxy-Toshiba-Archos/dp/B005OOJPKS

For software try this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.extreamsd.usbaudiorecorderpro

Thank you

Lisamaree

1.  So there is settings on there to break the songs up?
2.  I was thinking I would have to keep recording and stopping after each song.
3.  Does it have a setting that automatically converts to mp3 as its recording?
4.  Do you do this with a tablet or laptop?

So since it's windows based I'll have to transfer them from my tablet like before then use that software to divide the songs and convert to mp3

Alright, I was just gonna HOP on my W.o.W. account to harvest some ghost iron so i logged in and started harvesting my crops, (Farms always first  ) but then i needed help with something so i tried minimizing W.o.W. and i pressed the start menu button but when i did i accidentally pressed a few BUTTONS on the keyboard and my P.C. started shutting off, i cancelled the shut off, So i was like ill just skip the help and got back on W.o.W. (it closed it when my P.C. tried to shut down) So then i get back on and log in get on my character and i wasn't on for like 10 seconds when all of a sudden i get a windows blue screen, and after that my P.C. tried to restart but i told it to shut down scared of it being a virus.

What do you guys think?

P.S the blue screen said it was doing the restart to protect my computer?

P.P.S My steam is now asking me to log in. When it should be automatically LOGGING in.I'm sorry to hear about the problem that you have. Although I'm not an expert at things, I do know about blue screens and I can tell you this.

Blue screens in windows are not fun to have because windows shuts down. There are a number of reasons why a blue screen can occur. Here is what you should do

1) Can you get back into windows at this point?

2) By default, whenever windows crashes and DISPLAYS a blue screen, it will automatically restart as soon as a memory dump file is created and saved. We need to disable the automatic restart. As strange as it may seem, blue screen errors have a lot of information that can be used to figure out why the crash occurred. there is a stop error code which is displayed about in the middle of the screen.

You'll see
A problem has been detected and windows has been shut down, blah, blah, blah, blah
Then you'll see
STOP:0x0000008e
If you see a stop error code, what are the last two DIGITS?

3) What windows do you have?

4) Can you run a virus check?What is a W.o.W account ??Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply

Hi I am using a Dell Dimension 2400 and I have some kind of humming/buzzing noise on my mic. How can I fix that?Hi

Is this when using the front or rear mic input. And if you haven't already TRIED the rear port could you try that please.

There is only a red and green port and it is only in the back.3.5 mm port. I can show you in skype. Or any voice chat There is a blue and pink socket on the front at the bottom of the case by the USB sockets. Could you try those please.
It dosent have one. I have just figured this out It works perfectly when I put one of my hand in the back case then the hummmming is gone, I think its the radiation or something.Hi

Sorry it's under the front cover. But as you have found that by touching the case the hum goes. That suggests there is a grounding problem with the plug going into the socket . To fix that work the plug in and out of the socket a few times. If it is still humming then there could be cable damage between the mic and plug.

One common CAUSE of a hum for recording equipment is fluorescent lights are a #1 cause of humming with audio recording and amplification equipment. If you have any lamps with the new fluorescent LIGHTING or near by, I would shut them off and see if the hum disappears. What is grounding issue? And no I dont have a lamp.Hi

Have you tried the suggestions I made ?

A grounding issue is a generic term for there being a problem with the earth or ground SHIELD on the cable, or a bad connection in the mic socket.
You could try it as well with the usb adapter if you still have hum then the problem is in the headset. if not then the problem is with the mic socket on the dell.
   The mic only has 3.5mm ports.You haven't tried any of the suggestions...try it on another PC that has a rear Mic port...if it humms...return or replace it.dreadlyknife

The headset is supplied with both 3.5mm connections and a usb audio adapter. Hence the suggestion to try that adapter  isolating the COMPUTER audio connections. As is said he hasn't tried any of the suggestions...I didnt get a USB adapter, Do I change the outlet?

ASUS p9x79 main-board. i73800 cpu, 5770 vid card, Antec p190 case (has two pws 500 and 600).
1 SSD Samsung 250 gig SATA 3   200 gig wd.  blue-Ray  DVD burner all SATA.
Running operating system (ESATA BlacX thermaltake docking STATION) on my Samsung SSD)
two Kingston Data Traveler 100 G3 USB 3.0 drives  bought different times at different stores one 16 gig the other 32 gig
Window 7 pro. with Disks

I've had this problem with my USB 3.0 speeds
with usb 3.0 I can't get more than 7mbps transfer speeds
in windows explorer file transfer.

i should GO over what i have done so far to try to fix.

 1. Loaded brand new copy of win7 from scratch on Samsung 250 gig SSD drive

2. UPDATED the latest Bios for my main-board

3. Loaded Asmedia XHCi latest USB 3.0 driver

4. Tried both USB 3.0 drives on different USB 3.0 ports

5. Tried them both on USB 2 too.

6. Tried every combination of file transfer SSD-usb3 usb3-usb3 etc.

7. Checked the legacy support check it 4 ways on off usb3 on off usb2

8. Windows device manager set XHCi do not have advanced mode can't change anything

9. Took board back they did diagnostic on it said nothing wrong.

10. Crystal Mark bench-marked it at 148mbps. but I can't get real speeds over 7mbps

Any help would be appreciated Thanks

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Allegedly only the back USB ports support 3.0

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1633493/asus-p9x79-usb-connection-coolermaster-storm-enforcer.html

Did you reset the CMOS?

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/323323-30-asus-p9x79-ports

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2280972







148MB/sec is the read speed, the sequential write speed from your benchmark is 22MB/sec.  As you're not doing sequential writes, you're writing tons of smaller files, expect closer to the 512k write speed, which is 1.3MB/sec.
Kingston quote a 40MB/s read speed (you, puzzlingly, seem to be getting over triple that) and 10MB/s write speed, so you're achieving more or less exactly what I would expect.  I see no problem here, other than the USB drive you have is pretty slow.Thank you Calum
Thanks for helping me on this.
I do have one question more I think is kinda RELATED to this
I hope this doesn't sound stupid
USB 3.0 speeds are supposed to run in the gigabyte per second.
Where do they get off claiming they can get those speeds and yet
only give us  mps, or have I gotten it wrong?
Again thanksThe speeds advertised for USB 3.0 are maxx...what you wind up with is determined by the devices involved...Kingston does not specify transfer speeds for the Data Traveler 100 G3.  When they don't specify, they are usually slow.  I never buy USB drives unless they specify speed.
http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/personal_business#dt100g3

http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/dt100g3_us.pdf

Fine print on website says:  "Speed may vary due to host hardware, software and usage."They specify 10MB/sec as the write speed, but you're correct, the fine print does say that, which implies it may be less under less ideal situations.

The 4.8Gb/sec speed is the maximum speed USB3 can reach.  The device itself will have a maximum speed, in this case 10MB/sec, which is determined by its controller and the speed of the flash on the drive.  In between, you also have the USB3 controller which can affect the speed, too.
So basically, not every USB3 device will get 4.8Gb/sec due to these limitations, just as not every USB2 device gets 480Mb/sec and not every SATA3 device gets 6Gb/sec.  In this case, the fact that the drive supports USB3 is basically marketing, it's barely any faster at best than USB2 would support so it serves no real useful purpose being USB3 compatible.
It's worth checking speeds on USB drives before you buy as they vary massively, expect to PAY more for a faster drive as always but don't expect that just because it's USB3, it will be fast.

Hello, I'm new to the forum so I hope this makes sense to someone.... I've had an Iomega zip drive for years... I just put PHOTOS etc on it.

It's been working fine. I have also locked some files on some DISKS for security.

For some unknown reason I can no longer get the menu with the option to unlock the password protected disks ??

Unprotected disks work fine.... The protected ones just dont read...its says disk no inserted..Yet it will STILL eject it.

I used to be ABLE to right click on the disk icon and select un protect...but that menu no longer appears?? Any Ideas ??

PS When i right click now I get the standard.....OPEN, explore search, format etc Did you try re-installing the software ? ?
Also I have seen this happen when over time the read heads have become mis-aligned...unfortunately there's no fix for that.

Greetings CH!!

my latest project i wanted to dual boot a machine to play my old old games. So heres what i patched together.

Sis mobo dont know what kinda
512mb DDr ram
AMD athlon 1600+
20gb +40GB hDD

So here is what i wanna do. I wanted to install windows 98 (which i did) for all my old dos games. but the system would tend to freeze when i tried to play a audio cd in WINAMP. I wanna dual boot it with win 7 so i can still web browse with it.

Yes im aware that this whill be a SLOW win 7 machine. im ok with that. But my issue is i try to boot off the DVD and i get:
CDBOOT: Cannot boot from CD - Code: 5

Any ideas as to why im getting this???Hi Comda,

You might need to check the minimum specifications website for windows 7 specifications because that computer seems very low spec, i had a few issues running windows 7 on older computers. It's good that you know it will RUN slow so that's nothing for me to say but just double check if it's at all possible to run windows 7 with those specs.

Let me know how you go and if you need any help.

Thanks,Are you sure you have a DVD DRIVE?  I've seen this error when trying to boot from a DVD when the machine only had a CD drive, I hadn't looked at it properly.
Just thought it was worth mentioning as the machine is older, it may not have a DVD drive.+ 1 Calum.Just to be clear, when I ran into this I totally didn't spend 30-45 minutes checking connections, moving the drive between connectors on the board, cleaning the disk, ETC, before checking if the drive could read DVDs...that must've been someone else yes im sure its a DVD drive. A DVD rom by samsung to be more exact. cant REMEMBER the exact model number. I tried another DVD drive aswell. i read online that i may need a boot disk for older systems. is there one i can trust? I tried downloading ultimate boot cd but pc optimizer installed and gave me massive adware issues. Are these USB DVD drives you mention ? ?
An older MBoard won't support booting to USB.So i found this article saying older machines cant boot cause of incompatability. i will try reburning the dvd at a slower speed.

http://www.unawave.de/windows-7-tipps/code5-error.html?lang=EN

and no this is an internal IDE dvd drive

This has got to be a simple problem.  I am TRYING to do an advanced calibration.  I have printed the pattern.  I LOAD it into the printer, rotated 90 degrees with the pattern of dots being the first thing that would come out of the printer.  After the paper is loaded with the proper method (Selecting load paper -> sheet -> High gloss photo) I select "Measure pattern"  the machine ADVANCES the paper, but does not advance it far enough.  It attempts to LOCATE and read the pattern, but since the paper hasn't be fed far enough there is no pattern for it to read.  Thus it tells me "Pattern not found"  What am I doing wrong?Is it printed side down?

I see you have ALSO posted in the HP forum, where you are probably more likely to get a knowledgeable answer.

Hi, I am unable to boot my Thinkpad T61 into Windows XP. This is my data-PC that is going offline at the end of this YEAR, so yes: I absolutely insist on keeping XP on it - just in case somebody is about to suggest moving on to Win 7 :-)
Back story, it is lengthy, sorry, but I have tried so many things that it just adds up. For the short version, scroll down to "-----"
Nearly a week ago, my computer had probs booting, had to try a couple of times until it worked - partially, that is. Everything was running fine except a) Firefox (Opera was o.k., portable Firefox was o.k., so was Thunderbird) and b) Avast. (Tried things like Explorer, Nero - everything else was o.k.).
Firefox caused the system to freeze. I was able to identify one folder (cookies.sqlite) in the profile that caused this - even when I tried to just copy the folder to an external hard drive.
When I tried to run an Avast virus scan, the system crashed with a blue-screen and the problem code "Stop 0x00000077 KERNEL_STACK_INPAGE_ERROR".
Both happened multiple times, the system ran chkdsk multiple times, so I saved all my data and did a system restore with Acronis from a 2 week-old backup, that worked just fine. Did updates, ran Avast again (including a boot-scan), both came back clear. Same with anti-malware-scans (Malawarebytes, Superantispyware, Spybot).
So, so far everything was hunky-dory. The system worked, but being concerned about a failing hard-drive, I ran chkdisk again manually, which returned some faults that were fixed. I then ran Seatools which came back with errors. Ran the Hitachi tool (it's a 3 y/o Hitachi hard-drive) that also showed a "bad disk" result. I used their fixing feature that only fixes (moves?) faulty clusters. Ran their scan again - still faulty. Rang Hitachi. They suggested to do a full disk erase and the re-scan the disk and if still faulty I would have to replace it. I initiated this, but judging from the progress it would have taken months to run (after 12 hours it was still at 0%). So I aborted it and got myself a SSD as a replacement as I really very much do need a functioning computer now.
----
I restored the old (functioning) Acronis- backup from 2 weeks ago to the SSD and that's when things went really bad. First of all, the restore took some 18 or 19 hours (when that same restore to the HD the day before had only taken about 4-5ish). Acronis said the restore was successful, but when I tried to boot the computer the screen just remained dark with only the cursor BLINKING in the left upper corner. I was able to enter BIOS and the SSD was recognized correctly (It's the Samsung 840 EVO SSD, so it is definitely compatible with XP).
Getting desperate, I decided to give up on it and just re-install that HD that was presumably not entirely o.k., but at least working for now. And again, the restore through Acronis suddenly took 18-19 hours on the HD as well. Again it was successful as per Acronis, but when trying to start the computer, the same thing happened: screen remained black with only the blinking cursor.
Since then, I tried so many things, that I might not remember them all, but here are some:
- Tried to run XP from a CD, wanting to access the recovery console. For some strange reason, I don't get that option, just the option to re-install the operating system. (It is not an original XP-CD but a copy from a friend who made this for me for this explicit reason "in case something goes wrong"). The installation seems to work fine (both HD and SSD are recognized and the Windows-files get copied). Then, when the computer restarts, it only goes to the dark screen with the cursor again. Or, if I leave the CD in, it says to press any key to start from CD (again on a black screen).
- Tried to run XP from bootable diskettes. I get as far as as the last one. When XP is about to start I get a blue-screen with error code 0X0000007B, which is "inaccessible boot device". I tried this multiple times.
- Did a Lenovo Rescue & Recovery (on the SSD) from an old backup from 2010 (with little software and no data). It was successful and I was also able to see that the Acronis restore that I had done before had been successful as the data was displayed when I set the R&R up. Except it did not solve the boot-problem (no change).
- Made sure the hard-drive settings in BIOS are in "compatibility mode"
- tried running mbrfix but failed as I didn't know how to. It's an exe-file that I cannot boot from and that opens a DOS-window only on a computer with a functioning windows os.
- tried to run an MS-DOS-diskette - unsuccessfully. I can boot from it, but don't know what command to enter and what that would do.
- tried to run the Lenovo Master Boot Record Repair Kit on it, which didn't work (wrong indication so to speak as this is supposed to fix non-booting computers that have both SafeGuard Easy and Rescue and Recovery INSTALLED, which isn't my problem.
- tried to get the last functioning version of XP to run, which didn't work as there didn't seem to be one (pressed F8 on startup and nothing happened - just that cursor again)
- tried to press F6 which is supposed to fix problems with driver support, it then prompted me to insert the CD or diskette with the driver that I do not have (and wouldn't know which one anyhow. Plus Lenovo drivers should be on the system ). Also I think there was some option about BIOS that I am weary about for the obvious reasons.
I might have tried a few other things, but honestly do not recall. I am obviously getting pretty desperate here. I just don't have the computer-knowledge to analyze this logically. I also do not have any professional repair shop to turn to (unless I send the computer somewhere for a repair, which I can't do for time-reasons). Your help is therefore much appreciated.
Sydney Quote from: Sydney on October 27, 2013, 03:31:08 AM

(It is not an original XP-CD but a copy from a friend who made this for me for this explicit reason "in case something goes wrong").

Might have something to do with me being a newbie here ?

Hi, I am unable to boot my Thinkpad T61 into Windows XP. This is my data-PC that is going offline at the end of this year, so yes: I absolutely insist on keeping XP on it -...
I might have tried a few other things, but honestly do not recall. I am obviously getting pretty desperate here. I just don't have the computer-knowledge to analyze this logically. I also do not have any professional repair shop to turn to (unless I send the computer somewhere for a repair, which I can't do for time-reasons). Your help is therefore much appreciated...

...Most people would look at the last post in their thread for the solution  and maybe over look previous advice...

.Most people would look at the last post in their thread for the solution  and maybe over look previous advice...

hello, sir my computer is not starting.and see MASSAGE out fo rage i chak my computer all ceble and chak other moniter ,pleace help me.thankyouWelcome to the CH CH forum. Lots of people here will help you.
First, please check you spelling. Some here are phonetic readers.

Perhaps the message was:
"Scan rate out of range"

In that case it means the monitor can not LOCK onto the video output. It may be a broken of loose cable.  When that happens. ,urn off the monitor power from the mains. Then turn it on again. Sometimes the monitor just needs a kick to START.
Does that help?


Out of Range means you have set your operating system screen resolution to a value that your monitor cannot support. To fix this: (Assuming you are running a Windows operating system).

1) Turn on your computer, and immediately start tapping F8 key till you get a list of advance options like safe mode to start your windows operating system.  Note: Some computers may show a list of available bootable devices when you press F8, in that case select hard disk from the menu and again immediately start tapping F8. You will get the list where the first option will be safe mode.
2) Select Enable VGA mode from the list and press enter. It will load windows.
3)  Right click on your desktop select properties and click settings. Change the resolution to something like 1024x768 click Apply and OK.
4) Restart your computer.
5) If you get the same message again, repeat above steps but this time select resolution to 800x600 and restart your computer.

Please post BACK results.

I have a LENOVO G550 with Windows 7 Home premium. The battery will not charge. If I plug in the charger the laptop won'r COME on unless I take the battery out. If I put the battery back in the laptop shuts down. The battery I have is new.A new battery should not do that. If it was CHARGED.
Contact whoever sold  the battery.
Also, read this simple guide. The battery must be fully charged before you turn on the laptop. Do not attempt to use  the laptop on a new battery that is not fully charge for first time use.
General reference:
How to Replace Your Laptop Battery
That same information is somewhere in the laptop  documentation.Is the battery a original Lenovo?
Or a "equivalent" third party battery?

Some of the aftermarket one's have problems like you are having.

Also the battery it CAME with should have still worked or was it showing the same symptoms ?

hey bros what WOULD be the suitable model of mother board which can SUPPORT DDR3 1333MHz ram i have two slot of 2 gb . please suggest any affordable motherboard and its model no.
 We are going to need a LOT more information than that such as what CPU the board is using, what FORM FACTOR of case it is to fit in and what its intended use is.

Hi,
I have Samsung NP-R580 laptop. It comes with BA92-06128A motherboard and Core I5-430M 2.26MHz processor.
From some point on it started overheating.
These are the steps I have already taken to try to resolve the issue.
I have cleaned inside (heat sink, cooler...), changed the thermal paste (as I dismantled and reassembled it), flushed BIOS from 06JB to 11JB version, made sure Easy Speedup Manager is set to Normal mode, no overclocking is applied from BIOS or wherever (I actually didn't EVEN find any overclocking related menus in BIOS). Open Hardware Monitor shows temperature as high as ~90C (194F), the record high has been 100C (212F). It takes around half an hour in idle mode to get to these temperatures. If doing simple things like browsing internet or music, video, even using Win explorer it overheats much faster.

Please help.Sounds like the heatpipe as part of your heatsink may have sprung a leak and so its unable to draw the heat away. I'd look into buying a REPLACEMENT heatpipe/heatsink for it. You might have to search amazon or ebay for a used one that is specific to your model.

I had a Fatal1ty Abit motherboard that had a CPU that was roasting and same issues you have. The heatpipe sprung a leak which was not detected and so the heatpipes were non functional. The Pentium D 3Ghz was running 80 to 90C. Tried new thermal compound and still roasting. Thought maybe the thermocouple was bad in the CPU, but touching the base of the heatsink with finger it was roasting hot, while top of heatsink was cool where fan was upright with heatpipes coiled at base and thru sandwiched aluminum up either side of fan. Swapped the original expensive heatsink with a cheap $15 heatsink with copper slug embedded in cast aluminum with new thermal paste and temps dropped to normal less than 60C when gaming. Research online pointed out to heat PIPE failure!I would agree, it's either heat pipe failure (time to buy a new cooler) or bad contact between the CPU and heatsink.Thanks guys.
Hmm, what's inside that pipe? Is it a water or some special fluid or just alcohol?
I'm asking as I didn't see any signs of a leak there. Also, if I can feel that heat coming out of the rear vents, does that not mean that the heat is actually conducted from the CPU all the way to the cooler and dispersed out of the vent?

Regardshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe

The vast majority of heat pipes for low temperature applications use some combination of ammonia (213–373 K), alcohol (methanol (283–403 K) or ethanol (273–403 K)) or water (303–473 K) as working fluid.

Quote

Also, if I can feel that heat coming out of the rear vents, does that not mean that the heat is actually conducted from the CPU all the way to the cooler and dispersed out of the vent?

Hi all.

First let me say I'm completely new here so while I'm pretty sure I'm ASKING for help in the right place, please forgive me and point me in the right direction if I'm not.

Oh, and I've done a search on these forums for my particular problem and can't find it.

SO my computer's been running hot.

I got a system message yesterday that there was a problem with the graphics board. It had been slowing down a bit yesterday morning, then a lot, then I got that message, then crashes.

Tried turning it off and on, REINSTALLING the graphics drivers etc.

To cut a long story short, I figured out it's the operating temp...it was getting up to 100c then shutting down. When first booted up it runs at between 35 and 45...I'm using SpeedFan to get these figures btw.

I opened it up and gave it a good clean and checked all the connections. It was better for a while but then heated right up again...it's liquid cooled anyway.
I've been running it with one side of the case open to MAKE sure all the fans appear to be running correctly [they seem to be] and there's no extra or strange system noise.

It only starts doing this when I start doing anything intensive like working a big Photoshop file or gaming. Turning off the Overdrive feature on the graphics card seems to make no difference at all.

So what I'm trying to figure out is whether:

- it's a CPU cooling problem affecting the graphics card, or
- it's a graphics card problem affecting the CPU

And, of-course, it's about a month out of return-to-base warranty!

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. There are 3-year warranties on everything, but what I don't want to do is send back the wrong part.

Please also NOTE, there doesn't seem to be any overloading of the CPU during the tasks that CAUSE it to start heating up.

specs:
- Windows 7 Professional, SP1
- Intel Core i7 3820 (3.60Ghz / 10MB / LGA2011 / Quad Core, Without Fan/Heatsink)
- Asus Radeon HD7870 DirectCU II (1010Mhz), 2GB GDDR5 (4840Mhz), PCIE3.0, DVI, HDMI, Dual Mini DisplayPort
- Intel RTS2011LC Liquid Cooling Thermal Solution for Socket LGA2011 / LGA1366 / LGA1156 / LGA1155
- Geil 16GB Kit (4x4GB), PC-12800 (1600MHz) EVO Leggera DDR3 Hardcore Gaming Memory, 9-9-9-28, Low Profile Heatspreader,1.5v, Dual / Quad Channel KitSounds like the liquid cooler isn't working properly.  Check the connections, specifically the connection to the pump which sits on top of the CPU, to make sure it's firmly connected.  Try another power or fan connector if you have one available.  If the unit is making an odd sound, it's possible you have an air bubble lodged in the CPU block which can be dislodged, but right now I would put my money on a disconnected or faulty pump in the cooler.

Just curious as to how SSD adoption is going amongst members here, would be interested to see the results of the poll.
To be clear, I'm talking about just INTERNAL storage, so if you have an external HDD or something which you back up files to, that doesn't count for the purposes of the poll.

Every PC in my household (my laptop, my desktop and my gf's laptop) has SSDs only, there are two HDDs in use but they're both external and used just for backup files and some large files we don't access much.  My parents' PC also has only an SSD, as do the 2-3 laptops I've sorted out for my gf's family & friends over the last year or so.
I feel that SSDs are at the point now where new machines really should have one as standard, even if they still include a HDD for additional storage space.  In any semi modern machine with a HDD, the HDD will be the bottleneck, and the one component keeping the system from feeling fast and fresh.  An SSD is also usually the first upgrade I recommend, assuming the system in question has a SATA port for it, because in my experience it makes the single biggest difference.  It's certainly given quite a few older machines a new lease of life.
My work laptop has a HDD, and despite being about 6 years newer than my home laptop, with a much faster CPU and more RAM, it's painful to use now that I'm used to the instant response an SSD offers.I own a bunch of computers ranging in age from a Pentium III 600Mhz Dell Laptop to a new computer which can take the AMD FX-8350 8-core CPU. Some are limited to sticking with IDE drives, others will have no benefit really of upgrading to SATA from IDE such as the Pentium 4's. And as far as the Dual-core x2 and Quadcore x4 processor systems I currently have 3 desktop towers that are running both SSD and HDD SATA II drives for improving gaming performance, however the 3 systems have smaller SSD's which I bought at really good prices such as 1 x 30GB Corsair SSD SATA II and 1 x 40GB OCZ SSD SATA II, 1 x 60GB OCZ SATA II Agility.

I have a netbook that use to have a slow 5400 RPM SATA II HDD 160GB and I upgraded that to a 90GB OCZ Vertex 3 SSD SATA III ( running backwards compatibility as SATA II ) * Big performance gain for the netbook running on a dual-core 1.66Ghz Atom processor both in speed and battery life of almost another 45 minutes of use not having a mechanical HDD.

I havent gone the route yet of a desktop system with just SSD's, however I was tempted to pick up another 40GB SATA II SSD for like $35 and make a gaming rig that is dual SSD drive. *Basically the reason for 2 SSD's is because of the limited storage capacity, however it makes more sense to have both SSD and HDD right now vs doing away with the mass storage of a HDD.

At some point I hope to upgrade my newest system to the AMD FX-8350 8-core 4.0Ghz native clock and have 16GB of RAM, in which I have 8GB DDR3 right now. Then allocate up to say 12GB of the 16GB of RAM as a RAMDrive and see how games launch instantly. I have played with a RAMDrive from DataRAM that is free to use for less than 4GB and it works quite well. It basically stores the image file of the RAMDrive onto a normal hard drive and injects that image back to RAM on boot and writes the RAMdrive back to disk before shutdown. And since my system is on a battery backup that can keep it running for a good 15 minutes or so, in a power outage it has time to write back before shutdown vs power outage and dataloss since RAM is risky to use as a Virtual Drive space.

Waiting for the AMD FX-8350 to drop in price, its currently $199.99 for the CPU at newegg.
Waiting for the 8GB DDR3 good name brand RAM to drop in price to double my RAM to 16GB.

* I bought a bundle deal for my new gaming system build back in June for just $72... a mATX Socket AM3+ Biostar motherboard + 8GB CRUCIAL Ballistix DDR3 - 1600 RAM and couldnt pass it up. Currently it has my Athlon II x4 620 2600Mhz AM3 Quadcore in it as a temp CPU until I get the 8-core powerhouse CPU which will be sweet.

Just waiting for the prices to drop and then I will have a fun upgrade to perform and a gaming system that should last me a good 5+ years of good gaming processing power with just video card upgrades as needed as games get more complex.Doubt you'll see RAM prices drop any time soon, due to the fire at the Hynix factory and subsequent price increases

My family's PC has an Intel X25-M 80GB, my gf's laptop has a 128GB Crucial M4, my machine has two 128GB Crucial M4s (and possibly an Intel X25-M 160GB if I feel like sticking it in) and my laptop has an older Samsung 32GB SLC drive.  My gf's mum has a 64GB Crucial M4, and her friend has an OCZ Vertex Plus 60GB.  Nobody has yet complained of a lack of storage capacity which is nice.

Battery life, heat and noise are things I hadn't mentioned in my opening post, and they are of course all closely linked, so thanks for bringing that up.  I don't miss the noise of a mechanical HDD at all, my Samsung F4 2TB was pretty quiet but it's noticeable now that it's relegated to an external enclosure.  The other great thing about SSDs if you can mount them anywhere you like, with a bit of Velcro if you want to - no need to consider cooling (beyond the very basics), vibrations, mounting it on its side, or anything like that.  You can stuck them behind the motherboard tray, on the side of a drive bay, there are so many options and it's nice to be able to free up your drive bays like that.Quick and easy here for you.

Laptop = 500G SSD (I put in)
Desktop = Regular HDD
External(s) = Regular

I did just order a Hybrid drive to use on a Cloud Storage device, plan to review on my blog at some point.

Storage used in my VMware environment:
6 2T 15k RPM Drives for space, 3 Micron 200G SSD used for Transnational Tiered Storage Cache drives for speed.
Have 2, both Drobo B1200i (One at DC and one DR site) Quote

The other great thing about SSDs if you can mount them anywhere you like, with a bit of Velcro if you want to - no need to consider cooling (beyond the very basics), vibrations, mounting it on its side, or anything like that.

Doubt you'll see RAM prices drop any time soon, due to the fire at the Hynix factory and subsequent price increases

I am not an early adopter of new technology, maybe because I was an inventor of new technology or more likely just frugal.

I can't justify spending $150 on an SSD that's 1/3 the capacity. 

Posted by: Calum
Doubt you'll see RAM prices drop any time soon

Are they really still that expensive over there?

I like that a 7 year old laptop can boot to Windows in 15 seconds or so and pretty much every program loads in a second or two

Calum stated .... Doubt you'll see RAM prices drop any time soon, due to the fire at the Hynix factory and subsequent price increases

Active power consumption is not much less that traditional hard drive, 2.11W vs. 2.5-5.0W (typical)

Samsung warranty is 3 years.  WD Scorpio warranty is 5 years.

This is my computer.

HP ENVY h8-1534 Desktop PC

I got this computer refurbished for 399 whith free shipping


What kind of the video card should I get for around $300? Should I get a pci 3.0 even though I can only support a 2.0? Am I going to have to get a new power supply? So I guess my budget is between 300-400$. Thanks in advance guys!Not a bad computer. I would get a better power supply 650watts vs just a 460watt if you are going to run a high end card which will likely need the additional power connections vs just powered off of the PCIe bus connection thru the motherboard.

Do you have a specific video card in mind or a preference of AMD/ATI or nVidia GeForce?

Also what games or application do you have for this to try to help you get the better card for your money. Anyone can spend $300 on a video card, but if you looking for saving some money instead of just buying one in the $300 price range, there are some good cards out there for less than $300.


System Info here:
Quote

Brand HP
Series ENVY
Model h8-1534 (H2N64AAR#ABA)
Type Student/Home office
Usage Consumer
Processor AMD FX-6200 3.8GHz
Processor Main Features 64 bit Six-Core Processor
Cache Per Processor 6MB L2 Cache
Memory10GB DDR3 1600
Hard Drive 1.5TB SATA 7200RPM
Optical Drive 1 SuperMulti DVD Burner drive
Graphics AMD Radeon HD 7570
Ethernet Gigabit Ethernet
Power Supply 460W
Operating System Windows 8 64-BitMotherboard
Chipset AMD 970CPU
CPU Type AMD FX-Series
CPU Speed FX-6200(3.80GHz)
L2 Cache Per CPU 6MB
L3 Cache Per CPU 8MB
CPU Main Features 64 bit Six-Core ProcessorGraphics
GPU/VPU Type AMD Radeon HD 7570 2GBMemory
Memory Capacity 10GB DDR3
Memory Speed DDR3 1600
Form Factor DIMM 240-pin
Memory Slot (Total) 4
Maximum Memory Supported 32GB
Hard Drive
HDD Capacity 1.5TB
HDD Interface SATA
HDD RPM7200rpm Optical Drive
Optical Drive Type DVD Super MultiFront Panel Ports
Front USB2 x USB 3.0
Front Audio Ports 2
Card Reader 15-in-1 multimedia card readerBack Panel Ports
PS/22
Video Ports1 DVI, 1 HDMI, 1 Display Port
Rear USB4 x USB 2.0
RJ451 port
Rear Audio Ports 6 ports
S/P DIF1 port Expansion
PCI Slots (Available/Total) 1 x PCI Express x16 (Gen 2.0)
3 x PCI Express x1 (Gen 2.0)
1 x PCI Express MINI card (for half-length add-in cards) with USB

Hi i recently purchased a usb 3.0 usb hub from startech because my vizio ultrabook only had 2 usb ports and i needed more. Everytime i connect the usb hub to my laptop, my WIRELESS strength goes down by 2/3 bars and sometimes even disconnects. I thought i was crazy at first but i tried several times, and without doubt the internet strength is much better without the hub connected. I have an external hardrive connected to the hub, as well as a keyboard. Im thinking it might be the hub taking too much power from my ultrabook forcing it to run on lower settings, but my hub has its own power from an ac adapter. Heres the exact laptop i have

http://www.target.com/p/vizio-14-laptop-pc-ct14-a4-with-128gb-ssd-4gb-memory-silver/-/A-14303810#prodSlot=medium_1_1

Anyone know whats going on? Try moving the wires and see if the signal varies.
You are not crazy. It is well known that USB 3.0 devices, cables and ports emit a lot of interference in the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands. This can kill or severely affect wireless reception, and also Bluetooth. You do not want a USB 3.0 device or connector within 2 metres of a wireless antenna. Since you cannot rebuild your ultrabook with better shielding on the USB ports, and probably cannot easily shield your hard drive and keyboard, your options seem to be LIMITED. You could try a longer, shielded USB 3.0 cable to get the hub further away from the computer, and possibly go back to USB 2.0 for the keyboard which does not need 3.0 anyway.
I must be lucky, I've had no problem with a 3.0HD sitting right next to the wifi laptop.Yep...lucky indeed. Quote from: Salmon Trout on November 09, 2013, 04:34:10 AM

You are not crazy. It is well known that USB 3.0 devices, cables and ports emit a lot of interference in the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands. ...

Okay so im new to PC building and what im building is probably a lot cheaper than searching and buying online. Atleast i hope lol. Basically I want to build decent gaming PC. And i want to know if these specs would be COMPATIBLE with everyhting i chose. Heres the part list.

Motherboard: MSI B85M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel B85 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Entry DVI Business Intel Motherboard
CPU Intel Core i5-4430 Haswell 3.0GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54430
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model BLS2KIT4G3D1609DS1S00
Power Supply: OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular High Performance Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandybridge Core i3 i5 i7 Intel 4th Gen CPU Haswell and AMD Phenom
Video Card:GIGABYTE GV-N660OC-2GD GeForce GTX 660 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
HDD: Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive - OEM
Computer Case: Fractal Design Core 3000 FD-CA-CORE-3000-USB3-BL Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer CaseLooks good to me. But I am not a gamer. Sorry.
One question. 
Why did you pick MSI B85M-P33 motherboard?
Just asking.
CheapThat looks pretty good assuming you aren't planning on ever overclocking.

That said, I would really advise against going for the MSI motherboard and getting something from Gigabyte or ASUS (Won't cost too MUCH more) - MSI isn't great from a quality point of view.  The motherboard is pretty much the "core" of your system, it should be a large proportion of your budget, not something to get "cheap".

As far as the power supply goes, OCZ can be a bit hit or miss - Hopefully someone could advise if that is one of their "good" units or not.  You may also want to consider something like the XFX Core Series or something from Corsair as these are generally better - Anything above 500w will be enough for your machine.

Only other thing to remember is that the GeForce 760 is out now so if you want the "latest" stuff then you may want to look into switching out your 660 for that.camerongray, Thank you.
Hope he gets the hint.
Gigabyte is a better choice.Scrimping on a MBoard makes about as much sense as people who scrimp on a PSU...Ok so based on your guys recommendations, heres the new motherboard and power supply.

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-B85M-D3H LGA 1150 Intel B85 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Power Supply: CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

All of this will be totaling around $850. Wish it could be a LITTLE cheaper but I think it would do. But before i MAKE my descision. Is there a way that i could add a video card to my Laptop. It has integrated HD4000 graphics. And if i can't could you guys let me know? Some of my games havent been able to work due to the sound card problem and I would like to change that as WELL. Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 11, 2013, 06:25:47 PM

...Gigabyte is a better choice.

Ok so based on your guys recommendations, heres the new motherboard and power supply.

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-B85M-D3H LGA 1150 Intel B85 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Power Supply: CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

All of this will be totaling around $850. Wish it could be a little cheaper but I think it would do. But before i make my descision. Is there a way that i could add a video card to my Laptop. It has integrated HD4000 graphics. And if i can't could you guys let me know? Some of my games havent been able to work due to the sound card problem and I would like to change that as well.

Hi FRIENDS, Here´s my problem:
My computer is: Main Board Asus P8B75-M, CPU I5, 4 Gb Ram, OS Win7 x 64.
It has video on Board working fine, I´ve tried to install NEW Video Card Nvidia GT-630 from Gigabyte, all was ok till i tried to install driver from the DVD, at first it checked compatibility, all was fine, starts to install, then stopped and writes ERROR cant finish! no explanations..., I´ve tried a newer display driver dowloaded from the gigabyte´s web site, same results... checked the BIOS everything´s fine, updated it, same results, I am out of ideas!!!!
Please help, I want to send the new Video Card to the garbagge, but wife keep telling me, the money it coast!!!
 WELL, this is the right place. It helps if you give details about the new video card. Also,you said  the motherboard has a built-in video. Right?
What does your documentation  says about the installation procedure?

Sometimes the install is rather odd, depends on the card.

Here is a typical procedure for certain video cards
1. Do not insert card into your PC yet.
2. Change the existing drive to generic VGA. reboot to make sure.
3. Power down the PC again  and install the new card.
4. Reboot, do not let Windows find a driver for the card.
5. Run Setup form  the CD that came with the card.

Of course, not knowing all the details, I don not know if this applies to your card.
Failure to use a special procedure, if required, results in a failed install. This has been documented elsewhere. The issue often is the user didn't read the instructions.

This is my attempt to help. 

Thanks for ur answer, i really need it:

The video card is the Nvidia GT-630. manufactured by Gigabyte, PCIexpress 2.0, 2gbytes and instruction for installation were the most simple:
1 Unplug the computer
2 Insert the card in the PCIexpress socket
3 connect the appropiate cables
4 Turn the computer on (it will be in VGA generic mode)
5 Insert the driver disk
6 Follow the screen instructions and so on....

I did all that way, and it started the installation programm, all by the rules, checked the system, and found it compatible, but in a moment later stopped and writes unexpected error cant install.

I´m telling you I´ve installed several video cards before in different more complicated ways, like ATI cards, but never had this kind of problem.
I´ve read all the manual in the DVD installer and they dont advice any kind of special type installation, I´ve checked the BIOS of the Main Board, for some kind of special settings, but there is nothing there.

I´ve tried some different ways of installing but always the same , big ERROR .

In resume I´m entangled in a bad way and really dont know what else to do.

There is some detail I´ve remember, could be related : about 3 month ago  i´ve dowloaded from the windows update, an update for the build in Intel video graphics, and after download it started to install as always, automatically, and before it ended, stopped and send an error message."it cant update the driver", I tried again, and the same result as before, ¿could be the problem is something bad working in my Main Board?

Thanks again for ur attention.   diegog, Your problem is not as rare as you might think. Some stuff not there just does not work well with other stuff.

I believe order of install is the issue. The New card has to be early in the install.

Here is a method that has worked for others and myself. Get a free copy of some backup  software, and external drive and a partition tool.

Backup your  stuff, re size  and create a new partition. Next do a full install of the OS on the new partition. Can you do this? Yes, you can. And it is legal. Next Try installing the new video care before you do the chip drives, Yeah, sounds crazy. Worth a try.

Or, just to test you sanity, try a live CD like Mint Linux or Slackware  or what Linux you like. Often the Linux auto detect works very well.  Helps prove if the devices are really hardware conflicting or not.thxs for ur input!!!
Sounds logic. I´ll give a try, could I use a "Virtual Box" or "Virtual machine"  to do the experiment???
I do have Ubuntu, could try too
thanks againThe reason for using a "live" CD is to check your hardware without making any changes. When Linux boots, it does a broad RANGES of tests to identify your hardware. If there was a real physical conflict it may report such.

It is good news when the Live CD shows a nice desktop
It swill make you have a better state of mind.

No, I don't mean you have to give up Windows and go to Linux.
OK I´m trying to find those live CD.

I only was meaning to use Ubuntu in a virtual box or virtual machine, never mind...

Thanks, I´am working   I´ve used the first part of ur advice, and it worked well, the video card is working well, now i´m restoring all my files.
Thanks a lot for ur help,.
!!Problem solved  !!!

Specs

Evga x58 sli mobo
I7 950 CPU
3x2gb ddr3 tri channel mushkin memory
2x10,000 rpm rapture hdd set in raid(not sure of correct term)
650 watt kingwin Psu


Yesterday I bought a 660ti 2gb vram and took it home. Plugged it into my mobo and installed drivers. Started playing Arma 3 campaign. After about 5-10 minutes I smelled a very strong burning plastic smell so I decided to turn off my computer to check out what was happening. There wasn't any smoke but the Psu smelled very bad. I'm worried that the Psu may have sent surges throughout my mobo causing damage to other components. The mobo doesn't look damaged and neither does the video card. What could've caused this? Is the graphics card still ok? I'm taking these components back to where I bought them to have it checked out but in the mean time feedback would be nice, thank you all in advanceKingwin PSU ? ?

Not a brand i'm familiar with...
How many watts does the card manuf. suggest ? ?On new eggs power supply calculator it said 527wattd for my set up
And the kingwin Psu I don't think is a high end brand it was on sale for 40 dollars.
You have a nice fairly pricey build with expensive components...

Invest in a decent PSU for them for protection. Quote from: patio on November 14, 2013, 06:35:38 AM

You have a nice fairly pricey build with expensive components...

Invest in a decent PSU for them for protection.

Yep, I'd certainly get a Corsair PSU - 650w should be enough.

You have a pretty power hungry rig and despite your current PSU saying 650w it's a cheap unit and in practice will be unable to provide anywhere close to 650w (as you saw).  Difference is that with a high quality PSU like a Corsair it will happily run close to its power rating without any issues.

For a replacement I would look at something like a Corsair TX or HX or if those are too expensive - XFX also make good units.

Computer SAYS there is a paper jam on my HP PSC 1401 All-in-one Printer Scanner Copier how can i change my software to force my printer to print (I already checked and there is no paper jam I can see) and my printer can print out the test page WITHOUT a struggle.If you dont know how to change my software to force my printer to print, could you moved me to the hardware forum and/or tell me where could I have missed the paper jamming my printer.How did you check for a paper jam?  Does your printer have a rear panel that can be opened?  Did you look there? 

If you are quite SURE it has not paper jammed in it, try powering off both the printer and computer and restarting both.  Does the software still report a jam? Paper jam does not only mean there will be a big paper sheet visible. Even if there are small piece(s) of paper stuck in the rollers, the printer may still report a paper jam.

If soyabean's solution does not work, then you may try the instructions/solutions by HP on this linkThe paper jam is being reported by the printer and there is no way to force a print job if the printer thinks it is jammed. IF you believe that the printer isn't jammed you could trying disconnecting it and unplugging it for a few minutes to let it clear its INTERNAL memory. Also try uninstalling it from the PC and re-installing it. But I'm with the others, I would look for a small piece SOMEWHERE.

Hi,

I have a bit of a problem.  I brought a USB stick home from work to use and I deleted some files.  I thought the files were no longer required.  However, it turns out that they are! So, I have TRIED to recover the files but to no avail.  I think the USB stick may be corrupt.  My question is, can the files be recovered remotely? Also, can the USB stick be tracked? Will they see that I have used it at home? I'm worried I'm going to get into TROUBLE. 

I hope someone can help!http://www.piriform.com/recuvaThanks Alan.

I have tried a couple of recovery programmes but to no avail.  I receive error messages saying that the disk (USB) must be corrupt.  Therefore, I have given up hope of being able to restore the data using the USB stick itself.  However, what I wondered is if it is possible to retrieve the data EXTERNALLY without the USB stick?

I have deleted files belonging to someone ELSE (they will likely have these backed up) and I wondered if they would be able to retrieve the data from their PC?

Please help. My touch smart WIFI sometimes connects to my router but other times does not pick up a net WORK at all. It's like there is no wifi on my COMPUTER yet the light on my PC indicates so.

I have an HP p2055dn printer CONNECTED, via USB, to a dell optiplex 170l- RUNNING xp pro. This is the server in the office. The printer is shared with network computers in the back of the house as well. It's been working fine for years. I keep the PCs and the printer updated (firmware, updates, DRIVERS, etc) and none of these either COINCIDE with the onset of- or have affected a solution to- the problem with the printer. Whether the print job originates in notepad or from my POS system (receipts, work orders, etc), the printer PRINTS in seconds once it BEGINS.. but the time between clicking print and it actually beginning to print is absurdly long and drawn out. I'm losing my MIND! Please help. Welcome to CH. Volunteers here want to help you.
Two questions.
Does this system also connect to the Internet on a regular basis?
Does the system have resident Anti-Virus software?

Suggestion: Could you possibly install another printer on the network to prove it is the fault of the printer?

BTW: It is best to not put a printer on a network with either USB or wireless. The punter should have an Ethernet interface if at all possible.

nothing is remotely hot.

why would you think it's overheating issue anyways when it doesnt even go pass the POST screen (with stock clockings and voltage)

...
---
i noted the overheat LED on my display sometimes blink or light continously when the computer fails to boot or when it boot loops. but the card isnt even remotely hot
---

I RECENTLY started using a Microsoft webcam (Device manager shows it as Microsoft Lifecam VX-2000, model number printed on the camera is 1381). At first everything seemed to be OK as Skype worked OK. At that moment that was all I needed. However, later on I realized that all other programs somehow are unable to use it including Win XP I am using. When I go to My Computer, double click on camera’s icon I get a pop up window with “Creation of the video preview failed. Please check the device connection and make sure that the device is not being used by another application or user.” message. All other programs (Acrobat, Photoshop, Word) are facing the same issue.
I have a doubt that the remaining of my previous Intel CS330 webcam’s drivers may be the reason. Is it possible and if it is how to resolve the issue? I say DOUBTS, as although I uninstalled the drivers of this Intel cam. from device manager, all the programs are still showing “Intel USB Video Camera” in the list of scanners when I go to Import/scan/insert picture menus. Also, when I chose “Intel USB Video Camera” option from the list, my Mocrosoft camera’s light blinks and “Intel USB Video Camera – Image Source” window pops up along with that “Creation of the video preview failed. Please check the device connection and make sure that the device is not being used by another application or user.” error window. I did a search in my computer to find that Image Source software, but found nothing.
By the way, I just plugged it in my other computer running Win XP and everything was OK there.
Please help.

Regards
Quit Skype and check again is the problem persist. Also check no other application is using the
webcam. Open Task manager and check for applications that may be using the webcam.

Important: Make sure you have the correct and the latest drivers for the webcam. Drivers can be obtained from either the manufacturer's website or driver CD (if shipped with the webcam, most probably small in size).Thanks PCDoc, but that's standard, I've done these first THING. Nothing is task manager that's using it, drivers are from Microsoft up to date page, windows update shows my hardware drivers are up to date.Do you have k-lite codec pack installed? If yes,
Try the 2nd answer from This linkNo, I don't have Klite installed.
To me it seems like 'another' software is using or configured to use the camera. That another software or its service is running in the background. It can also be "amcap" video capture utility which sometimes is configured to start AUTOMATICALLY when windows loads. Click start > Run > type 'msconfig' (without quotes) and press enter. In the System configuration Utility, click the Startup TAB and uncheck all those applications that relate to either the webcam or softwares that you know/think use your webcam. Click Apply and restart the computer.

Please post back results.If I provide you the list of Running Tasks along with Startup Programs, could you point me out the ones please? Just in case here they are attached.


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]I am listing all those applications which are not important to run at the startup and may be eating the memory unnecessarily and also the ones which are suspected to use webcam.

kiespdlr.exe Kiespreload, Kiestray agent, lingvo launcher,  msmsgs, npstartup, nerofiltercheck, Qucktime Task, TKbellexe, autodetect.exe, desktop.ini (all), groovemonitor.exe, daemon tools, adobe, acrobat, adobe ARM, acrobat assistant. Also remove the second entry which is blank.

Why are some of the above programs starting from the e:\ drive? I suspect some of these startups, you should first run Malwarebytes to make sure you are clean.Is E:\ a virtual drive from Daemon ? ?No, E is a logical drive. C, D and E are my physical HDD.PCdoc,
Sorry I missed your most recent response.
You know I actually provided you the list from System Information, not actual msconfig. That way, unlike msconfig,  I could easily copy/paste the list. Now I do see some inconsistencies there. Do you know an easy way of copying from msconfig?

Planning to buy a Raedon HD 5450 video card ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131338 )and use it to drive three displays simultaneously, from an HP Pavillion running 64 bit Windows Vista. I want to take a VGA to composite video adapter, like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-VGA-SVGA-to-S-VIDEO-RCA-TV-AV-Converter-Cable-Adapter-Super-Fast-Ship-For-TV/170858663437?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D18243%26meid%3D28181280003

 and input the signal from the card's VGA output into a TV. Is this possible?The video card has to support this, and Most Cards DON'T!. Most people run into problems trying to just split VGA to Composite via just a passive cable. Most cards have to support this feature to allow for this cable to work with them. Most people end up having to use a converter box that translates the analog signal instead. I would contact the manufacturer of the card and see if they claim this cable will work with it. Many will claim that the cable will not work and you need an analog video converter box instead for around $75-$150 etc.

Also TV's make a horrible monitor unless they are the newer flat screens with HD etc. I had a HTPC that I was running on an old 27" CRT Magnavox TV and it was perfect for watching movies over S-Video Cable from Video Card to TV, but surfing the web etc was very grainy looking and blurry for a movie or show to watch on www.crackle.com for free etc. Upgraded to a newer 32" HD Flatscreen TV and it came with a VGA input on the side of it and used that direct VGA connection instead for a while until I upgraded my HTPC to a video card with HDMI and now sound and video are sent to TV directly over HDMI cable thru video card to TV and so picture is sharp even when surfing the web with wireless keyboard and mouse setup from recliner.Thanks for your help! I'm only using the composite video to supply OSD info to a small screen, so quality shouldn't be too much of an issue. I gather it may be possible to use the onboard VGA video output of the motherboard at the same time as the PCIe video card- I might be able to get my three outputs that way. Does anyone have experience in doing this?I havent gotten 3 displays to work yet with Windows, although some others have. As far as running Integraded Video + Video Card, I haven't had this work yet with PCI Express Video Cards and Integrated Video, however I was able to make it work with a older GeForce 4 MX 440 PCI video card in a HP Pentium 4 running Windows XP Pro SP2 where I was able to set up dual-displays and span the content among the 2 displays among the Geforce Video card and Intel 845 chipset GPU.

All systems with AGP or PCI Express, the motherboards for me took it as default to disable the integrated and not offer it to be enabled. It may be a feature that is hard coded into the motherboards design that may allow for you to run both integrated and a card in AGP or PCIe slot at same time for multiple displays, but the only setup that I found that worked for multiple displays with integrated used along side a video card was with an older Pentium 4 HP S-Class tower with older PCI video card.

These days people who use multiple displays generally have a video card with 2 outputs or motherboard that allows for 2 video cards to have say 4 display outputs etc, however there is also a method I have seen for a point of sale application where they wanted to add a display to a setup that wouldnt take a video card installation and so they added a USB/VGA video card adapter, which while its not powerful ENOUGH for video content or gaming, it allows for information to be displayed and runs off of an available USB port and monitor connected with it. The OS treats it as an extra video card even though its a USB video card device that is not very powerful for processing thru its small lightweight processing GPU. We used a product like this one, but not this same model. I think ours was made by Startech: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812866007 * Not sure if this device is hard coded to only act as display #2 or if you can TEAM it with a video card that has 2 video outputs and use it as a 3rd, but you can ALWAYS contact the mfr before buying it to see if they claim it will work as a 3rd display adapter.

In the stores that we used these USB VGA video adapters in we basically had a small 15" flat screen display at the registers that ran through a powerpoint slide loop to advertise to the customers while they were standing in line about store events that were coming up such as Wine Tasting on Friday at 6pm, or other promotional stuff to drive sales or show a short series of information on the community charity "partner of the month" that customers can donate $1, $5, $10, or $20 to by grabbing colored slips of paper and handing them to the cashier to scan the barcode on and donate money to a charity etc.

These worked well for the stores application and are probably still working 5 years later, BUT... were only set up as 2ND displays vs 3rds!

Hi, my cd drive light blinks, during post, and is also visible in bios, but it is not shown neither in device manager nor in my computer. Yeah! My cd drive stopped Functioning almost 12 months ago, due to improper shutdown while the tray was open. Also i replaced bios battery yesterday, and before battery replacement, Cd drive was visible, in device manager. Tell me what is wrong?
Note: the cd drive lists itself as SATA in bios.Install the old battery again and check if the cd drive is visible, though I don't find sense there but if the problem started after replacing the CMOS battery, I find no harm in trying just for DIAGNOSTIC purpose lol But i am still a novice (i watched a YOUTUBE video to replace battery), and I also think'replacing battery again will not do any good'. Moreover the previous battery is dead, and when i push the eject button of the drive, light blinks but tray does not open. Any other ideas. Quote from: Cayman87 on November 15, 2013, 12:15:16 AM

But i am still a novice (i watched a youtube video to replace battery), and I also think 'replacing battery again will not do any good'.

Hi,

So I am wondering what video would be compatible with the system I have running. I bought this thing in 2008, so I'm not too sure if I'll be able to buy a really good video card.

Either way, I'd like it to be no more than $100. I'd use it to play video games at a higher setting, or to play some video games at all. Skyrim is one game I am playing at the moment, but I'd like to play Fallout:New Vegas. I'd also like to play Team Deathmatch, but for whatever reason I keep bluescreening or crashing when I play it. Ideally I'd like to play these games on at least medium setting.

Currently I am able to play Skyrim on the absolute lowest settings, and I still crash about ever 30 minutes, and I bluescreen sometimes too.

I do get a lot of bluescreens like "PDF_list_corrupt" and "Memory_management" related. I'm not sure if a video card will solve that. PERHAPS I need more ram? I'm currently at 2gb.

I'd be also grateful if you could suggest what ram and how much I can use for my motherboard.

Here are my specs, as given to me by the company I bought it from (Alienware )...

I sincerely appreciate the help guys.

Processor(s)
•Processor 1◦Name: AMD ATHLON(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 6400+
◦Manufacturer: AuthenticAMD
◦Caption: x64 Family 15 Model 67 Stepping 3
◦Version: Model 3, Stepping 3
◦Processor Id: 178BFBFF00040F33
◦Current Clock Speed: 3200MHz
◦Address Width: 32Bits
◦Data Width: 64Bits
◦Socket Designation: CPU 1

•Verified Hardware Device against Order: CPU-3.20AMDX26400

System Memory
•Memory Module 1◦Capacity: 0MB
◦Bank Label: DIMM #1
◦Mem_Type: DDR2
◦Mem_Frequency: 802.6 MHz

•Memory Module 2◦Capacity: 1024MB
◦Bank Label: Module format Regular UDIMM
◦Mem_Type
◦Mem_Frequency: 802.6 MHz
◦Verified Hardware Device against Order: MEM-DDR21GBPC64QME

•Memory Module 3◦Capacity: 0MB
◦Bank Label: DIMM #2
◦Mem_Type: DDR2
◦Mem_Frequency: 802.6 MHz

•Memory Module 4◦Capacity: 1024MB
◦Bank Label: Module format Regular UDIMM
◦Mem_Type
◦Mem_Frequency: 802.6 MHz
◦Verified Hardware Device against Order: MEM-DDR21GBPC64QME


BIOS Information
•Manufacturer: American Megatrends Inc.
•Name: BIOS Date: 03/20/08 Ver: 08.00.14
•Version: 1002
•Version: ALWARE - 20080320

Motherboard Information
•Manufacturer: ASUSTeK Computer INC.
•Product: M3A32-MVP DELUXE
•Serial Number: MS1C83B15201397
•Version: Rev 1.xx
•Verified Hardware Device against Order: MB-ASUSM3A32-MVPDLX
•Verify correct motherboard
•Power settings optimized

Video Adapter
•Caption: NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT
•Adapter RAM: 512MB
•DriverVersion: 7.15.11.7416
•Verified Hardware Device against Order: VID-EVG9600GT512MBOC
•Connect Power Cable
•Test Video Card

Hard Drive(s)
•ST3250410AS ATA Device◦Model: ST3250410AS ATA Device
◦Size: 250GB
◦Total Heads: 255
◦Total Cylinders: 30401
◦Total TRACKS: 7752255
◦Tracks Per Cylinder: 255
◦Verified Hardware Device against Order: HD-SEA250GBSATA16MB
◦Verify Correct Hard Drive Size


Optical Drives / Other Storage
•HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H55N ATA Device

Operating System: Microsoft WINDOWS Vista Home Premium

DirectX Version: 10

Miscellaneous
•High Definition Audio Device◦Device Name: High Definition Audio Device
◦Description: High Definition Audio Device
◦Class: MEDIA
◦Service: HdAudAddService
◦Driver Version: 6.0.6000.16386
◦Driver Date: 6-21-2006
◦Vendor Id: 11D4
◦Device Id: 198B
◦Revision: 1004
◦Verified Hardware Device against Order: SND-ASUSM3A32-MVP

•HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H55N ATA Device◦Device Name: HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H55N ATA Device
◦Description: CD-ROM Drive
◦Class: CDROM
◦Service: cdrom
◦Driver Version: 6.0.6001.18000
◦Driver Date: 6-21-2006
◦Verified Hardware Device against Order: STR-LG20XGSAH55NDVD

•Killer NIC Gaming Adapter◦Device Name: Killer NIC Gaming Adapter
◦Description: Killer NIC Gaming Adapter
◦Class: System
◦Service: NBv834x
◦Driver Version: 3.1.3.0
◦Driver Date: 10-6-2007
◦Vendor Id: 1957
◦Device Id: 0086
◦Revision: 0011
◦IRQ Number: 21
◦Verified Hardware Device against Order: NIC-BIGFOOTKILLERRV2


Installed Device Drivers
•AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 6400+, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•High Definition Audio Device, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6000.16386
•HID Keyboard Device, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•HID-compliant mouse, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•HID-compliant device, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•HID-compliant consumer control device, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6000.16386
•HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H55N ATA Device, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•ST3250410AS ATA Device, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT, 2-19-2008, 7.15.11.7416
•Marvell Yukon 88E8056 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Controller, 5-24-2007, 10.15.4.3
•Marvell 61xx Marvell RAID Controller, 6-14-2007, 1.2.0.46
•AGERE OHCI Compliant IEEE 1394 Host Controller, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•ATA Channel 0, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•ATA Channel 1, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•ATA Channel 0, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•ATA Channel 1, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•Microsoft iSCSI Initiator, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000
•Generic volume SHADOW copy, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6000.16386
•USB Human Interface Device, 6-21-2006, 6.0.6001.18000Unfortunately I wouldn't say that machine is really worth spending the money on to get a new graphics card.  Your CPU is very weak by modern standards so any decent modern graphics card will be bottlenecked by your CPU.

Personally at this stage your best bet is probably to see how much you can sell the machine for and look into buying/building a new/used machine as this would make much more sense in the long run rather than upgrading something of that age.

So I'm about to change out my hard drive on my computer to give it more space from a 135gb-HD to a 500gb-HD.

"KEEP IN MINE"
(I was using the 500gb-HD as a portable Hard Drive from the start. So I have some data on it I would rather not delete, but at the same time I have nowhere else to hold it)

So what I'm needing to know is

1.  Do I NEED to install anything on my 500gb-HD to RUN as the primary hard drive on my desktop before I change it out?

     a) If so what do I need to install?

     b) If not do I just use the backup option on my computer?

     c) If I use the backup option will the original data still show on the 500gb-HD even after it has restored the data from the 135gb-HD?

If there is anything else i need to know any info will be appreciated.Is the 500GB HD partitioned?  If not, I would partition it and move your data on it to the partition you want to use for storage.  So, you want to have a partition - which will probably become drive C when you switch the hard DRIVES - large enough for Windows and all your software and, if desired, your Documents, Music, Pictures, and Videos.   Or, if you're going to put Documents, Music, Pictures, and Videos, and any other folders you create, on a drive/partition other than C, then drive C can be smaller than if you keep Documents, Music, Pictures, and Videos on it.  If your version of Windows is Vista/7/8, you can use the partition resizing tool built-in to Windows or you can download EaseUS® Partition Master Free from http://www.partition-tool.com/personal.htm.  A HD-branded version of Acronis TrueImage (mentioned below) might also have partitioning capablity; I am not sure about this; I have not used it for awhile; I am inclined to think it does not.

I think I would also download a branded version of Acronis TrueImage from the manufacturer of your 500 GB HD and use it to clone your current Windows partition (on the 135gb-HD) to the 500 GB HD.  You just want to be sure, during this procedure, that you clone your 135gb-HD to the partition on the 500GB HD that you want Windows on, and be sure you don't overwrite, i.e. erase, your data files on a different partition on the 500GB HD.  So, pay very close attention to what you're doing.  On the Acronis control panel, I believe you should see the partitions on both drives and you should be able to control exactly what you want to do.  If any doubt, then do not proceed and post your situation here in the forum.

If your 500GB HD is Western Digital (WD), you can get WD version of Acronis TrueImage at http://support.wdc.com/product/downloaddetail.asp?swid=119.  If your HD is a different brand, you need to see whether the manufacturer offers a version of Acronis TrueImage that works with their drives. Another option would be to move the data from the 500G to the Boot drive...then clone the WHOLE thing back to the 500G...the 500gb-HD is a Sata 2.5 hard drive to get a better view of the hard drive here is a link to what I have ----->>> http://www.amazon.com/500GB-Sata-drive-Apple-Macbook/dp/B001S35Y5E

This is the computer I plan to put the hard drive in ----->>>
http://reviews.cnet.com/desktops/emachines-el1300g-01w/4505-3118_7-33667235.html
No disk came with this computer as far as installing anything on it. I personally put windows 7 on it though its default was vista.

as for the partition I'm reading up on how to do so nowPersonally,  I would recommend buying  another hard drive.
A plain500 GB SATA is now about $40 or less on eBay with a one YEAR warranty.
I have two computers and 8 spare hard drives. You never have too much spare storage.I'm going to be getting a portable 1tb here soon but this 135gb on this computer is killing me and I got this seagate 500gb so it would help I just needed the intrusions on how to which them over without losing any of the data on either side and not screwing up anything on the computers programs . Sense the computer doesn't come with any disk. Quote from: patio on November 13, 2013, 07:33:57 AM

Another option would be to move the data from the 500G to the Boot drive...then clone the whole thing back to the 500G...

ouch yea I only got 13gb left on the 135gb-hd

So I'm about to change out my hard drive on my computer to give it more space from a 135gb-HD to a 500gb-HD.

"KEEP IN MINE"
(I was using the 500gb-HD as a portable Hard Drive from the start. So I have some data on it I would rather not delete, but at the same time I have nowhere else to hold it)

So what I'm needing to know is

1.  Do I need to install anything on my 500gb-HD to run as the primary hard drive on my desktop before I change it out?

     a) If so what do I need to install?

     b) If not do I just use the backup option on my computer?

     c) If I use the backup option will the original data still show on the 500gb-HD even after it has restored the data from the 135gb-HD?

If there is anything else i need to know any info will be appreciated.

Hi

Leave the 500 gb harddrive in the USB case. Download and run http://www.minitool-drivecopy.com/drive-copy/disk-cloning.html
Then clone with resize the 136gb to the 500gb.
Test by booting from the USB drive and see if it starts to boot into windows if so swap the drives across and your good to go.
Does your desktop use a notebook drive if not you will need to get a 2.5 to 3.5 adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/SILVERSTONE-SDP08-3-5-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002BH3Z8E/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1384632689&sr=1-1&keywords=2%2C5+to+3.5+adapter

Hi,

I have a flash drive, that I have plugged into my USB port, and it has a FAT 32 FORMAT. When I TRY to delete the files that are currently on the drive, I get a "Drive is write protected" warning. As far as I know, this drive is not being used by any program or application. So how do I unwrite protect this drive?

Thanks!

-cinque8try to use hiren boot CD and there's alot of tools software that you can use for this issueMake and model of the flash drive?The information that is on the outside of the disk is: USB 2.O 8GB.

This disk seems to have a mind of its own. Diskpart shows the disk as: Read Only no, but I cannot format the disk or delete any files from the disk.



But when I try to format the disk it says: "Read Only"



Also when I tried to format the disk, I got a message that said the disk is currently in use,
but I have no applications open.



Thanks!Some usb DRIVES have a LITTLE physical switch that toggles between write-protect and not.

I want to SELL my laptop but I've had some documents on there with important information...so I need to somehow wipe it off the laptop before I sell it, as I know that you can recover files if you know how to do it. And if someone got HOLD of my info such as bank details etc. that would be bad. Does anyone know of a way I can wipe this information effectively?
I would really appreciate some advice or suggestions! Many thanks. If there was anything that private on the hard drive, I'd install a different hard drive and then install the OS to it like new for the new owner. You can get hard drives PRETTY cheap these days. I bought for example a 160GB 2.5" SATA HDD for $29.99 online about 3 months ago for a laptop that I rebuilt to sell and the only available HDD I had was a 40GB SATA drive which was really too small of capacity for a somewhat modern laptop. With installing a different hard drive and retaining your original hard drive there is no way for anyone to try to get the data back because it never existed on the hard drive platters to recover.

There are also programs out there that can write a hard drive with 1's and 0's to OVERWRITE where data existed, however these are not as perfect at getting rid of data as completely swapping a hard drive is. Your first step should be to reformat the drive as this will clean out the physically allocated files, then install a fresh version of Windows. Now you should only have virtual traces of your original files and physical copies of Windows files on your drive. Your next step should be to download and run a program such as Eraser  and to delete all virtual copies or file fragments off of the drive.

http://lifehacker.com/5966580/what-should-i-do-to-my-computer-before-i-sell-itPull the drive...i agree.

Out of all the used systems i've sold or donated i kept every HDD...Just to be on the safe side, I would prefer to keep the old drive with me. And put in another drive for the new owner as suggested above.If you laptop has the option to make recovery discs then do that. Test that the recovery discs work by booting from them and starting a restore. Then wipe the drive with dban or Parted magic's wipe disk. Then run the restore from the recovery dvd's. You should make the recovery disks even if you replace the hard drive. It devalues a laptop if it has a generic COPY of windows loaded instead of the manufactures version with all the additional tools and correct drivers.

Another option is to delete the files and then use kill disk   http://killdisk.com/wiping.htm. To erase any traces of the files. This is risky as there may still be traces in windows that would be enough for an expert to piece together a lot about you.Hey! Yeah I think I will pull the hard drive, thanks for the suggestions! It's better to be safe than sorry I guess. I am also paranoid about this sorta stuff cos nowadays you can achieve pretty much anything.

(i am a mac user so i suck at this)
so I am attempting my first PC build, and i need help checking the compatibility of the parts, as well as suggestions on parts that better fit my needs.

I'm aiming at 1500$ -> 1600$ max budget. The computer is going to be used to operate programs such as maya and mudbox, as well as play games, and school work.

heres what im looking at atm: (if i missed anything pls do tell)

HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148840

monitor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009422

CASE: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112404

Graphics Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121635

Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171052

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148545

Mother Board: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131837
    This is one of the items that i really lack knowledge on and if one of the other
mother boards in the ASUS Z77 series would be better or another board altogether pls tell.

Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501

Getting windows 8.1 for the processing system, is windows 7 better?

TY in advance to any help, comments appreciated.For gaming and that budget, I would buy Windows 7 Pro 64-bit. I have had problems with Windows 8.1 and games. So I have had to go back to using older computer that is Windows 7 to play games instead until the bugs get worked out or games get patches for Windows 8.1. I have an ASUS Laptop that has plenty of processing power for the games I play like World of Warcraft and I have Mouse Control issues with Windows 8.1 and WoW, so I went back to using my Windows 7 system. The mouse issue with Windows 8.1 is a known bug.

The hardware looks like a good match up. I have the same RAM in a new build of mine and no problems. I am only running 8GB of the DDR3 single stick though vs 16GB. Someday I will upgrade it to 16GB, but 8GB is plenty for now with Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit on the 500GB SATA II drive at 7200 rpms.

With a budget like the one you have, I would buy a gaming RIG that comes with a warranty as well if your not that familiar with assembling a computer.

I learned how to build computers by mixing and matching guts from troubled computers in the 1980s when computers were really expensive and it wasnt until 1998 that I bought my first off the shelf computer for $900, and I learned from my mistakes on the older systems of what not to do etc vs buying a bunch of parts and slapping them together and then watching an expensive smoke show such as when I messed up on an old system and did not move a brass stand off and it rested on some traces and I flipped the power switch and  instant smoke show. Since 2004 I have built my own systems and systems for other people and this is after building and rebuilding hundreds of computers to know the tricks to building and avoiding problems.

But dont let that scare you away from building your own computer as for the components today are much better than in the past for compatability and  standards are in affect now for AT and ATX stand off mounting positions to where unless your adding a new motherboard to say an old DELL case will you find that the stand offs are not exactly AT or ATX mounting pattern and you have to either modify the case to remove conflicting hardware or just buy a AT or ATX case to stuff the components into.

One suggestion I would make is that with this kind of money in the build, I would have on site assistance through the build process so that you get to build up the powerful beast of a system, but yet also have someone there to watch and assist with questions or point out where you can run into problems.

Most common PC build problems I have had to clear up for people new to building computers are some of the following examples: ( Forgot to apply thermal compound to heatsink that required it so the CPU roasts at the get go because its not bonded with the heatsink surface with a means to transfer heat, wrong CPU stuffed into a motherboard that doesnt support a CPU that is that powerful (*Note: Sometimes this can be fixed with a BIOS flash to update the supported CPUs such as was the case with a friends Socket AM2 motherboard that he upgraded from a Athlon 64 single-core to a Sempron X2 2.0 Ghz dual-core and it would not post. After PUTTING the original older CPU back in and performing BIOS flash he was able to then put the Sempron X2 in and the system ran fast on that lower end dual core than the older single core), Power supply not high enough wattage for build so it either doesnt boot or it is very unstable, Back in the days of IDE drives not setting the Master, Slave or Cable Select Jumpers and running into problems (* The good thing is that SATA makes this dirt simple now with dedicated ports for each device so no more true master/slave config, although depending on which SATA port you use it is a bootable port or a slave like device port non-bootable ).  I can go on and on with mistakes either I or I have seen others make that I have assisted with.

Though a build process if thats what you stick with vs buying a high end gaming rig pre-built with warranty, we are all here to help you with any questions.     With that kind of budget you can make quite a beast of a system as well a purchase a beast of a system and avoid the RISK of limited warranty terms of a custom built by yourself system.

*Most people like myself build systems not just because its fun, but because it allows you to save money making a powerful beast of a rig with a tight budget. But with your budget, you have to decide if you want to build one up and take some risk or buy an already built powerful system and be covered by a warranty in which you can probably pick up an extended warranty on it as well for $50 to have 3 years of faceplate to back panel coverage if there are any problems.I Was redirected to this build by a newegg employee, and i think i like it more than the one that i picked out myself, since i will be using the market cpu fan, and the case is ready to go, what difficulties do you foresee me facing as i try to set this up.

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Your second build looks much better, not sure of the need for the extra SATA cable though as the mobo should come with 4-6.
I would however go with a Haswell CPU such as the i7-4770 rather than an Ivybridge based Xeon, as Haswell is newer, faster, and more efficient.  You'll then need a new board as Haswell is socket 1150, not 1155.

Helo guys

Yesterday I opened my old PC which was waiting lonely in the cellar. I TOOK out some parts which can still be used. Among these there is an old card reader from Medion (German firm). I still have all the cables but don't really know where to put them on the mainboard (Asrock 970 Pro 3 R2.0).
Among the pictures I give to you there ALSO is a schematic which SHOWS how the card reader was built in in my old PC.
I hope you can help me.
I don't need any advices such as: "Buy a new one". I'm fine with the speed and everything.
Already THANKS a lot.
Chris G.

The Pictures were too big, so that I uploaded them on SkyDrive:
http://sdrv.ms/17XULmi
Picture of the Mainboard from: http://www.planet3dnow.de/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26743&stc=1&d=1356482355Probably it plugs into an mainboard USB header; this is the usual way.
Okay thx
I tried it, but sadly there weren't enough free connectors

Closed Quote from: Chris G. on November 24, 2013, 05:29:23 AM

Okay thx
I tried it, but sadly there weren't enough free connectors

Closed

I have an old Toshiba Satelite J11. It has a 40GB hard drive with 47 pins. I searched the internet and I have found a few people with this question but no answers. This is not a 44 pin it has 47 pins and will not connect to a 44 pin as the last 4 pins will block it from connecting to the adapters I have seen. I do not know where to find and adapter. I also have an old Toshiba Satelite L25 with the same hard drive and want to remove it as well but I have the same problem of not being able to connect it. Does anyone have any ADVICE?Can you post a pic of the connector part of the hard drive? Here are the pictures. Being in Japan one can not find parts unless you are a manufacturer or certified repair shop and even then you pay 5 times the price anywhere else. I need to identify what I need and buy it in the States.

[recovering DISK space, attachment deleted by admin]the four extra pins separated on the right in the first image are JUMPER pins for Master/Slave. They aren't very common because most LAPTOPS just have one hard drive. They would block adapters because the adapters weren't designed with that arrangement in mind.

Google for one of these or similar

Vogue USB 2.0 to IDE SATA S-ATA 2.5 3.5 Hard Drive HD Converter Adapter Cable

or better

USB2.0/3.0 to SATA/IDE2.5”/3.5”HDD Hard Disk Drive Cable Adapter Converter OTB

The will work with both drives and any others you are likely to see.

Are you looking for a replacement hard drive or a way to use the one you have in a desktop?
For attaching to desktop, these are the best ones I've found.

To use this drive for USB, you can use this without the adapter above:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232002


If you are looking for a replacement, they are available in the used marketplace.

All drives are now the one on the left.

Thanks for the help, I needed the IDE adapter and the ones suggested here will work. New egg does not ship to Japan but I can find it on Amazon or eBay and they will ship it.Let's make this solved.
The dual PATA USB adapter is very common an should be available everywhere.
The OP can get it in Japan.

Im trying to figure out how a user can give instructions/directions to a processor.  Here's the page i found on the subject Computer Instructions.  I understand the user gave the instructions to draw the square by how exactly?  Through the user's keyboard?  Through some program?  Any one can help me out?Logo See the second one on this link.

Quote from: PCdoc on November 18, 2013, 07:19:39 AM

Logo See the second one on this link.

Thanks camerongray.

So, the assembly code is the bit you wrote at the end of your reply.  That is then turned to machine code.

My current specs

Core 2 Quad Q8400 2.66GHZ
DDR2 2GB Transcend
GTX 660 Direct cuii OC edition
500GB SATA HDD
Intel G41 Mobo

So my 660 is getting bottlenecked VERY hard by my system ...9 FPS in all games

I am looking for upgrade...so here's what i've reached

AMD FX 6300

MSI 970A

Im going with AMD due to budget issues...needed a second opinion as i am a Intel fanboy
The mobo states it can SLI as i am  thinking of doing it in near future...is it any good with Fx 6300 & 660 oc ?

Plus suggest me RAM on the same site preferably 4GB & 8GB

I am building this as a long term investment ...& no i wont be overlockingWhile AMD is cheaper, I'd still say going with something like an Intel Core i5 would be a much better option.  SLI isn't really worth it unless you are running loads of monitors (Your card is already really good) so I'd spend the money that you would have spent on SLI and get the better CPU.

You'd also be best to avoid that MSI motherboard and get something from Gigabyte or ASUS.The Q8400 shouldn't be strangling your 660 to the point where you're getting 9fps, unless you're running only very CPU intensive games.  The 660 is a decent lower midrange card and the Q8400, although showing its age, is still capable of POWERING it to play most modern games, at least on medium settings.

That aside, I agree with the above, go for an i5 over any AMD processor if your priority is GAMING, and definitely avoid MSI motherboards.  I also agree that SLI isn't really worth it with a 660, you'd be better off spending you money on a better CPU/mobo/RAM combo and then buying a better single card further down the line.Building a new PC...not a CPU. Quote

That aside, I agree with the above, go for an i5 over any AMD processor if your priority is gaming

SLI isn't really worth it unless you are running loads of monitors (Your card is already really good) so I'd spend the money that you would have spent on SLI and get the better CPU

and definitely avoid MSI motherboards

Building a new PC...not a CPU

Dear patio...cocky as always arent u

In india its not like foreign countries , we dont get electronics at MRP

Dear patio...cocky as always arent u   

That's a myth spread by the end user itself for there own benefit.
Trying to speak like the batman joker? Sorry, I don't find it funny.

This board would be a good choice: http://www.flipkart.com/gigabyte-ga-990xa-ud3-motherboard/p/itmd5rrragjgfd8y?pid=MBDD5RRRYZQGUFWY&ref=f488fc25-b2e3-4edf-a25a-d067b6cfb151
 
This one doesn't support SLI but is substantially cheaper.  However, if you aren't going for SLI, go to Intel. http://www.flipkart.com/gigabyte-ga-970a-ds3-motherboard/p/itmdegdcpjujfrsc?pid=MBDDEG8JCM2W6Z7S&ref=d6124ca9-b20e-43b0-985e-d399adc7f3c1

The reason against MSI is that they are a budget brand and are not the best quality.  You can get parts from the likes of Gigabyte or ASUS around the same price and they tend to be much better quality.

I will still stand by my comment about the i5 being much better, especially since you said you are wanting to keep this machine for a long time.

The first mobo u mentioned is too *censored* expensive...& the second mobo has bad reviews

THe site mentioned is india's most reliable & most used shopping site...u can check the price for urselves

I do not want to change the topic there as this would go into long discussion. Though the website has very bad reviews if you search Google.Its not your behavior, you are forcing yourself to behave like that with a bad attitude.

So i am leaning towards this i5