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Windows 7
Currently running NORTON 360, but temporarily turned off firewall and it still won't print
Printer connected by USB cord, printer is both connected to the wall and to the computer
The computer recognizes the printer is there but can't communicate with it
I have restarted them multiple times and no dice
This has been happening for months and months and the "cannot communicate" message used to only pop up sometimes, now it is every time I TRY to print
I have tried a different USB cable And doesn't work either
It is using the printer port LPT1
I don't have the disk the printer CAME with

Please help I have multiple assignments due by midnight and have read through PAGES and pages with the same issue and nothing works and I'm about to freaking throw it out the windowWhy is it on LPT1 ? ?I don't know, I didn't set up the printer. Is that the problem/should I change it/how?

When I boot up my Toshiba Satellite C650 (with the HDD removed) I get the following message:

check cable connection!
PXE-MOF: Exiting Intel PXE ROM
No bootable DEVICE -- insert boot disk and press any key

When I boot up the laptop with the HDD installed I just get a black screen with a blinking cursor in the top left of the screen.

I can't enter enter the BIOS (there is no POST), I TRY pressing Esc, F2, F12 but when I boot up I just go straight to the error message or the blinking cursor.

Could this be a problem with the CMOS battery or motherboard?

Thanks.
HDD is PROBABLY dead.  Can you connect it to a desktop computer as a 2nd drive?No I can't connect it to another computer, when I do it just freezes the computer immediately and when I unplug it then it unfreezes again. I also noticed that it's making a clicking noise when powered on... I'm going to use Hiren's BootCD to try to save some data from it if I can and and perhaps run some of the hard disk tools on it. Why aren't I able to boot into the BOIS though? Would getting a new HDD fix this?Dead HDD...
Sorry 'bout your loss.Ark it sounds LIKE a dead HDD If it is sata hard drive then you may get your information off it if you use it as a slave but it doesn't I hope you have a backup of all your important pictures or information.

thanks
WillliamJosephIs that you Bill ? ?

Out of curiosity? Does anyone know the ramifications of extending a usb cable too far?The USB 2.0 provides for a MAXIMUM cable length of 5 metres for devices running at Hi Speed (480 Mbit/s). You can join cables together using powered hubs (maximum 5). The ramifications of just using cable joiners is signal LOSS and data transmission failure, and if the device is powered by the USB cable there may not be enough power to operate the device.


Worth repeating.
QUOTE from: Salmon Trout on September 05, 2013, 12:02:22 PM

The USB 2.0 provides for a maximum cable length of 5 metres for devices running at Hi Speed (480 Mbit/s). You can join cables together using powered hubs (maximum 5). The ramifications of just using cable joiners is signal loss and data transmission failure, and if the device is powered by the USB cable there may not be enough power to operate the device.

OK so my computer randomly automatically reboots itself, SOMETIMES when I'm in the middle of a program and other times when it's doing nothing at all and I just leave it and come back to find it starting itself up. Sometimes it gets into this rebooting loop, and I have to leave it off for the rest of the day, but it's usually fine by the next day. It used to occur very scarcely, like once every few months, and a friend of mine mentioned something about the system being updated and it was nothing to worry about, but it's become QUITE a habit now, it restarted only three days after it last did it, and I'm GETTING kind of freaked out...  Why does it do this and what can I do?More info on the system...Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to RUN the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyI don't know, it's restarted itself more than that, it's missed lots of times... Sometimes it's a bluescreen crash and others it just reboots.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]I asked you to copy and paste the report into this thread, but okay. There is only one bsod from this year, so it would appear that's not the problem. If it happened more FREQUENTLY than every third day I'd suggest leaving it in safe mode to see if it still happens. But your problem is intermittent and that makes it very difficult to diagnose.

I am trying to get used to Windows 8 and have been unable to print a Test Page on my hp 3-in-1 printer 1050 series.

Before I had Windows 8 I used the following method which now will not work:-

1. I HIGHLIGHTED the printer's ICON in the control panel.
2. I right-CLICKED and then clicked on Properties
3. I clicked on the General tab
4. I clicked on PRINT TEST PAGE.

This always worked well but now suddenly with Windows 8 I can nowhere find the wording PRINT TEST PAGE.

Thank you for helping me out.You need Windows 8 DRIVERS for your HP printer.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=4027465&task=&

I have a laptop that has two ratings: 18.5V/3.5 mA and 19.0V/4.74mA.  This means the watts is 64.75 for the first rating and 90.06 for the second (P=IV)

I have a charger that is rated 19.5V/3.34mA, which means the power supplied is 65.13W

The wattage of the charger is close to that of the first rating of the laptop.  Does that mean the charger will work?  Or is it something to do with the voltage and amp rating?

Also, how is it that the laptop can take both ratings of 64.75W and 90.06W?
Some adapters have Auto-Switch for use in either the Americas or the rest of the world. They deliver more power on the 240 VAC mains.
Quote from: shashgo on September 02, 2013, 10:42:37 AM

I have a laptop that has two ratings: 18.5V/3.5 mA and 19.0V/4.74mA.  This means the watts is 64.75 for the first rating and 90.06 for the second (P=IV)

I have a charger that is rated 19.5V/3.34mA, which means the power supplied is 65.13W

The wattage of the charger is close to that of the first rating of the laptop.  Does that mean the charger will work?  Or is it something to do with the voltage and amp rating?

Also, how is it that the laptop can take both ratings of 64.75W and 90.06W?

I have a laptop that has two ratings: 18.5V/3.5 mA and 19.0V/4.74mA.  This means the watts is 64.75 for the first rating and 90.06 for the second (P=IV)

Hi

I USE my samsung galaxy tab 2 10.1 to surf the net. Its great as it functions as mobile or desktop so I can do anything.
I download stuff on it , and at the start simply plugged it in the usb socket on my acer aspire 5610 laptop running xp sp3 , and transferred DATA quickly and easily , but then one day I plugged it in and a popup bubble appeared in the system tray on the bottom tight hand corner saying an UNRECOGNIZED device was plugged in and it had PROBABLY malfunctioned.

Ive tried different usb sockets  with the same result.
Ive tried plugging it into a different pc , with same result.
Ive tried backing up and rebooting the galaxy tab , back to factory default , but that didnt work either.

The data cable is also the power cable and it charges as normal.
I havent been using the cable to whip tigers in a circus or anything so I dont understand how the cable may have failed if that is what it is.

Can anyone HELP ?

Thanks in advance

I have an HP laptop and an HP Multifunction printer.  The HP Solution Center program which sets up scanning to the computer will not load and it tells me that I need to reinstall the printer.  I have DOWNLOADED and installed the LATEST driver and still get the same message. Any ideas ?  Thanks.Besides the driver, you need the whole package for that exact printer. The scanner and the printer FUNCTIONS are really two distinct  items.
Get the CD that came with the printer and do the whole install over again. Use a USB cable the first time, to see if it will work. Later, try  for the wireless.

As for me, the wireless setting does not always work RIGHT. I have a HP 6500.
Is this printer connected via USB ? ?
If so here's the correct procedure:
Remove the printer in Device Manager...
Remove the HP printer software in Add/Remove programs.
Unplug the printer and re-boot.
DLoad and install a new copy of the printer software and re-install it...do not hook up the printer until it prompts you to do so in the install.Thanks to both Geek-9pm and Patio.  I will re-install printer USING the CD and then try using the usb cable.

I am running a wireless network so no they are not hard connected.

Will post again with results after completing the re-install.

Thanks for the quick replies.

Okay, problem solved.  Even though I had done this twice before in the past, when I un-installed the software for my printer and then re-installed it, the HP Solution Center now loads up and the scan to computer function worked fine.

Thanks again for the help and the quick responses.

Good News indeed...

Just bought a nexus 7 2nd GEN and LOOKING to get a slimport adapter to hook up to my tv. Did a search on the web and amazon and FOUND a few. Most had mixed reviews with the slimport brand being the "best". Any opinions on what the best one out there isNo doubt Slimport is the leader. Some others work on other Androids.
Google Slimport alternative
FIND this:
http://androidforums.com/nexus-4/697391-alternatives-slimport.html

Have not tried any. Please tell what you find. Too much reading for me.
Seems the only alternative to slimport type technology is something calles miracast. Seems in early development so not a lot of info on it.  I guess its Slimport. Just have to ROLL the dice and hope i get lucky and get one of the working ones. All ill be using it for is the occasional movie played off a thumbdrive on my 7. Not much of a gamer

I'm using an Altec Lansing ATP 3 speaker set.

Recently, the speaker starting to make some continual bass like sound, COMING out of the mid-range speakers.
It sounds like hearing the firework from far.
This happens even without the speakers being connected to the PC, just power up.

Sometimes, connected to the PC, there would be no sound coming out from the speakers at all, either for a few brief seconds or can be minutes.

What could be wrong with it?
Would it be repairable?

Thanks.


Quote from: Michael on September 03, 2013, 08:48:22 PM

I'm using an Altec Lansing ATP 3 speaker set.

Before that, just power on the speakers and with dry hands, try move the 3.5mm stereo pin slowly (that you connect to your PC head phone jack) along with wire and check if the firework type noise you are talking about stops for a second when you move the pin/wire. If yes, The Pin or the wire requires to be changed. If no difference, I would then check the amp circuit.

If no difference, I would then check the amp circuit.

This happened a long time ago and I'm just now getting around to it.  Can't remember if I was able to troubleshoot anything back then but I doubt I could have done much since it wont even turn on.  I remember that it was on and working fine with ample battery power when it went black.  The power cord might have been plugged in as well since I think I had it hooked up to my TV.  After that nothing.  Won't charge and obviously won't turn on.  At first I thought it might be the power cord but the blue light on the battery pack is on so I assume it's working fine.  Other than that I haven't done much since I can't get it to turn on.  The power outlet on the laptop is intact but that doesn't necessarily mean it's not the problem.  I read online that some Toshiba LAPTOPS have had problems with them but the posts I saw was that they were breaking off inside the laptop and you couldn't plug anything in them.  Obviously the other option would be the battery.  At the time of it going dead it had only been about a year old.  So assuming the light on the power cord means it's working is the battery where I should start?  Is there a way of testing it first?

Laptop is a Toshiba Satellite C655I'd remove the battery and plug the power cord to the laptop and see if it will boot off of just wall power. There are LED indicators on the laptop and one of them incidates when the laptop is plugged into AC power wall outlet. If none of the LEDS are lit, especially the AC power LED, then the main board is not receiving power, so while the power pack may show a lit LED there might not be power making its way to the laptop.

If you have a multimeter, I'd check to make sure that its in fact putting out 15 or 18volts etc, whatever the power supply generates for DC power output. If the power supply attached to power cord when plugged into the wall shows nothing, then I'd replace the power supply as for you should measure a voltage equal to or slightly higher than its rated output.


If you have a battery that is completely drained it may require a period to charge to say 25% before the laptop will turn on if the battery is good but demanding of the power supply. I have an older Toshiba Qosmio that if I ran the battery all the way down on it, and plug the power supply into the laptop to charge it, it will not turn on for a good 10 minutes or so and the power supply gets warm as its charging the battery. 10 minutes later I turn on the system and it runs fine still charging the battery pack, but the power supply gets burning hot because its trying to power the laptops energy demands as well as charge the battery at the same time. I found that if I give it a full charge and then use it with power supply connected to outlet it doesnt road to the point that its ready to melt the plastic clamshell that houses the power supply.

Please check on the above suggestions and report back with findings. If you dont have a digital multimeter you can get one at Radioshack, Walmart, K-Mart, Sears, Bestbuy, Staples, etc for less than $20 usually. I have a $10 digital multimeter from Radioshack that is a cheapie, but it works well. You dont need a top of the line Fluke meter, although I wish I owned a higher end Fluke sometimes with more features.Did forget to mention that when I plugged the power supply none of the LEDs on the computer lit up.  Just now I took the battery out and plugged in the power supply.  So far no LED lights.  I'll give it 10 minutes or so since like you said once it's all the way dead it takes a second to register.  Or were you specifically meaning it takes a few minutes to turn on but the LEDs should show up immediately if the board is getting power?No LEDS lit = No power to laptop. I'd verify that the power supply shows correct voltage output at end of cord. If there is power present, then its likely a damaged power jack or broken trace internally to laptop.Ok.  So I need a multimeter and it should tell me if the power supply is the problem? I know you mentioned that the LED on the power supply means that part is working so it could be a problem witht the tip that plugs into the laptop?  If that's the case how do I test that?  Actually the tip I have on it now is after market.  The original one that came with the computer broke off but it was interchangeable so I bought a variety pack of them at best buy or wherever and used the appropriate one. Quote

Actually the tip I have on it now is after market.  The original one that came with the computer broke off but it was interchangeable so I bought a variety pack of them at best buy or wherever and used the appropriate one.

About a week ago I received my old computer from my home country. And I want to spend some MONEY to upgrade it and then do some overclocking with it.
Current hardware:
CPU - Core 2 Quad Q9550
Motherboard - ASUS P5Q3 (not deluxe)
GPU - NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT 1GB
RAM - 2x2GB DDR3

So I'm planing to buy second GPU ( and use them together at the same time) ( I know that P5Q3 second PCIE slot is limited)

Also I need better RAM and Cooler.
I found "Thermaltake CLW0215 Water2.0" cooler, but maybe something else would be better for cooling overclocked cpu.

So, I need serious advice on GPU, cooler and RAM.

You can also contact me directly [email removed to prevent spam]

Thanks.Please do not put your e-mail in a post.
Did you already buy  Thermaltake CLW0215 Water2.0
May I say that before you install a water cooler, read over some reviews of others.The install can be a lot of hard work t of work.
But for the price, it is a great idea.Welcome to the forum!

The all in one kits like that Thermaltake are just as easy to install as an air cooler, but are usually more expensive for their performance.  I really don't recommend them except in very specific circumstances, you're better off buying a good air cooler.  I would pick up something along the lines of a Prolimatech Megahalems, Thermalright Archon, HR-02, True Spirit or Silver Arrow, or a Phanteks TC-12 or TC-14.  All will perform on par or better than any all in one "water cooler" and will cost less.
The P5Q3 doesn't support SLI, so you can't get another 9600GT to run together - even if you could, I wouldn't recommend it, because they're old cards now and even in SLI, they're not very powerful by today's standards.
What power supply do you have?  Any graphics card upgrade recommendation will be based on that, there's no point recommending a power hungry card if your PSU is LOW powered or low quality.  Also, bear in mind most modern cards will be bottlenecked by your CPU, but you'll certainly benefit from an upgrade over that 9600GT as that's really holding you back.  What resolution will you be playing at, and what games?
When you say you need better RAM - define "better".  Do you just need more RAM?  FASTER RAM?

Finally, do you already have an SSD?  If not, I would personally make that my top priority and pick up a Samsung 840 (preferably the Pro or Evo rather than the Basic), Crucial M4, or a Plextor SSD, because that'll make the most noticeable difference to your PC's everyday performance.

Edit: oh, an overall budget would also be helpful Ok. So I probably will take Prolimatech Megahalems or similar one cooler.
My PSU is "FEEL 3 - 500 ATX", and now one guy recomended Nvidia GTX 660 for GPU upgrade, and its ok for me, but now I don't know if my PSU is powerful enough.
And yes, I think that I need faster RAM if I want to do some overclocking with CPU. Or I'm maybe WRONG?
Budget: lets say, I just need fast enough system, but not spend a lot of money for that
PC I'm usually using to work with  Photoshop Lightroom and sometimes to play first person shooter.SSD I'm using only in my loptop. PC currently set with RAID 5. Quote from: qzavs on September 09, 2013, 05:01:54 AM

My PSU is "FEEL 3 - 500 ATX", and now one guy recomended Nvidia GTX 660 for GPU upgrade, and its ok for me, but now I don't know if my PSU is powerful enough.

And yes, I think that I need faster RAM if I want to do some overclocking with CPU. Or I'm maybe wrong?

Budget: lets say, I just need fast enough system, but not spend a lot of money for that

SSD I'm using only in my loptop. PC currently set with RAID 5.

I hope someone here can help me out. What I have cobbled together is a CCTV system that I want to make even better.
I have a CCTV image going into a DVR. It then goes to my lap top for viewing.
 What I'd like to do is perhaps send the image to a small computer or tablet first if needed, and then to a touch screen monitor where I can annotate or circle a portion of the live image ( or frozen ) very much like you see during a sporting game. Team members movements,etc.
This system is used in the field and I'd like to keep it as portable as possible.
Is there just software I need to obtain,a pre-fab monitor that has this feature,or what are my options?
Thank you for your help as I need to find a good working answer.A way to do it with a frozen image would be a screenshot and then mspaint which with a touch screen would be able to draw on the screenshot in say a yellow paint brush to MIMIC what you see on football games when they show the plays on TV.

WITHOUT lots of programming, I am unaware of any software out there that is free or low cost that gives this feature to home users without the mimic of a screenshot opened in mspaint and touch screen controlling the paintbrush.

To get the screenshot you can have live video feed and press the ( Print SCRN ) button to grab a snapshot of the screen, and then create a shortcut on the desktop to mspaint and launch that and paste the screenshot to paint and then you can write on it with paintbrush with finger and a touch display.

To make it more advanced you could use a macro creator to turn a hot key on your computer, a key you might not use on a regular basis such as tilde key ( ~ ) into a capture, launch mspaint, and paste the image to paint a 1 keystroke feature.

Maybe others here have a better method, but thats all I can come up with. As FAR as the laptop getting the video feed from CCTV and being mobile, you would have to go with wireless transmission of video and you would be limited to range, and the cost would be expensive. Cheapest would be a camera rolling that is attached to the laptop to USB and grabbing a still of it and drawing on that such as if your out in a field and took an image of it and wanted to draw and point out where for people to go, or at a high school football practice and just recorded the  play and you want to perform an instant replay slow motion and grab a still and draw on it to point out to players what happened or what should have happened or what to do next.

*If you want to record this process too with video and audio there is Camtasia and Fraps. I own a lsingle user license of FRAPS and it works well for video recording, but it stores uncompressed video, so afterwards you have to compress it. I use virtualdub to compress it afterwards which is free. *You need lots of open HD space for fraps as for it takes little time to make 20GB video files.Thank you for the "PAINT" idea. That may WORK if I make a hot Key. I need to mark the image quickly.
The camera is 2KM away and is wireless transmitting the live image to the receiver,to the DVR,and output into the port in my lap top or stand alone VGA monitor.
The receiver and the rest of the viewing equipment is run on a generator. The camera and transmitter are running on a battery pack I designed and is connected to a full wave inverter that is 85% efficient. I can get 8 hours out of the battery pack which is ideal.

I am trying to play CIVILIZATION V on my desktop computer but it is very laggy and thus unplayable. I have been told that I need to change my graphics card. However, when I GO to Device Manager, it lists the following two items under "Display Adapters":

ATI Radeon 3000 Graphics
ATI Radeon HD 5700 HD Series

According to dxdiag.exe, my computer is currently using the first (and worse) of the two. How do I switch to the better graphics card? Or am I just running two cards at the same time? I do not understand this at all.

My specs:
OS: Windows 7 64-Bit
Manufacturer: ASUS
Model: CG1330
Processor: AMD Phenom II X6 1035T (6 CPUs), ~2.6 GHz
Memory: 8192 MB RAM

Thanks in advance.I fixed it by plugging in the VGA cable into the other slot. Cool that you fixed it and the Radeon 3000 is likely the integrated GPU while your Radeon HD5700 is the better video card?

While running a video while on line screen went blank and now all I have is a flashing light where the green on light is.  This happen a few days ago when we lost power to the house but all I did was unplug power and plug back in. How can I get my computer running again? This is a desktopPower supply may have been DAMAGED.  What is the make/model of this computer to look up if there are any flash codes specific for this computer? ALSO if you have a spare power supply laying around that is known good, I'd swap the power supply with this error condition given that it started with a power outage.This is a Dell XPS 400 changed power surge but no change should I change power line from power surge to computer A power spike can damage your UPS. just because it turns on, it does not MEAN it is working. Plug your computer into the wall outlet. does it work?
There are sometimes two terminal 120 VAC strips on the back of the UPS. One is spike/surge PROTECTION the other is spike/surge and battery protection. One side can be dead. I have seen it many times in my work.
 Is your internet wired,wireless, through a router, satellite,etc? Are they working?I'd swap PSU (power supply) with one that is known good if this orange light blinking is the power LED that normally should be green on the computer. Quote from: DaveLembke on September 10, 2013, 04:05:52 PM

I'd swap PSU (power supply) with one that is known good if this orange light blinking is the power LED that normally should be green on the computer.

Hi guys,

After googling my WAY through the Internet I tried telephone support from Microsoft and Apple, but nobody KNEW the answers for this:
"Does windows 7 use both GPU's on a MacBook Pro ME664?"

Link to laptop (http://www.humac.dk/produkt/macbook-pro-15424ghz-ci7-1).

Sure do hope one of you out there know this exact question. Much obliged in that CASE!

Best Regards,
Anders
Studying Software Engineering



Have you run dxdiag or gone to hardware device manager of Windows 7 to see if it shows both of them? If it does then its likely using them. Do you see some sort of degradation of performance to point towards a GPU issue?

** Unfortunately I am not that familiar with Apple Hardware to support further. I chimed in on this because you mentioned Windows 7 on this hardware which I am familiar with, however I am not certain if dxdiag will show both GPU's in a SLI or crossfire multi GPU/video adapter system since I havent run multiple teamed GPUs for a while now. I do know that in device manager it will show both if both are detected and mounted for use by the system.Running Windows on  a MAC violates the EULA.

   Topic Closed.

I do a lot of video work, and I have my completed projects and other material on external hard drives, generally on at least two different drives.

I was recently nomadic for an extended period, and I put most of my stuff in a storage unit. I didn’t know if that would be safe for external hard drives, so I made sure to bring hard drives with me that had all my material, and I only put hard drives in storage that had duplicates of the material.

My stuff was in storage for about two and a half years. During that TIME, the external hard drives I brought with me have been hooked up to my computer off and on, and have worked fine. I have had about ten such drives with me, and at any given time maybe three or four are hooked up to the computer.

Different computers, by the way. Within the last two months I got a PowerSpec B719 running Windows 7. That’s made no difference as far as the functioning of the external hard drives.

A few days ago I finally got my stuff out of storage. Last night I commenced checking the external hard drives that had been in storage all that time. There were seven. The first four all worked fine when hooked up to my computer. I checked multiple files from each, and there were no problems. The next three all failed. They do not show up on my computer at all.

Bad, but not a disaster, because as I say, these were duplicates.

Today I hooked up one of the external hard drives I’ve had with me all along to my computer and it too didn’t show up. This is one I’ve used, but not in at least a few weeks or months. I then tried another, with the same result. I then got one of the four from storage that worked fine last night, and that too is not recognized.

All the ones that have been attached to the computer all along last night and today remain fine. I’m getting scared to try any others because it seems like anything not already attached won’t be recognized.

The unrecognized hard drives are different makes—mostly WESTERN Digital—and different capacities. I’m not hearing anything spinning when I plug them in. Some have indicator lights that light up when they are plugged in, so I guess they’re getting at least some power. One (the one from storage that worked fine last night and now won’t work) has green and yellow lights that are flickering continuously, which I looked up online means the drive is failing.

I’ve tried different cords, different OUTLETS, different slots in the computer, and any other configuration I can think of, but the results are the same. I also tried shutting down the computer, removing a couple of the external hard drives that are working, and restarting the computer (in case somehow the computer was overloaded with too many drives and didn’t have enough power for more), but that too did nothing.

This is serious now, because with drives other than the ones from the storage unit also failing, that means that there is a lot of material I had duplicates of (or for a few things triplicates), and now can access none of them. It’s one thing to lose backups; it’s a lot worse to lose the backups and what they were backing up. I’m screwed if all this material is lost permanently.

It’s as if starting today when I plug in a drive and connect it to the computer, something is “blowing it out.” The ones from storage I can understand maybe were damaged somehow, but now it’s happening with others that I attach too, making it seem like there wasn’t anything wrong with them until I plugged them in and hooked them up.

After having written the bulk of this post, I thought of one more thing to try. I remembered I had an old, but still functioning laptop. I tried two of the problem external hard drives with the laptop. One is the one from storage that worked fine last night but wasn’t recognized today. The other is one I’ve had with me all along that wasn’t recognized today. Neither works with the laptop. The laptop gives no indication of knowing there is an external hard drive attached to it. It’s as if they’re all really dying.Have you tried any of the 3 failed drives hooked up internally connected as slave drives ? ?
Your external enclosure may to be blame here so all is not lost.

BTW the best testing method would be only the boot HDD...and one of the other HDD's at a time...dis-connect all others for this.Thank you very much for the prompt reply.

I'm not averse to taking them apart and sticking them inside the computer, but I see that as a last resort just before I toss them. I installed an internal hard drive like that years ago, and while I recall it wasn't super hard, I also recall I had to do some research on how to do it (which I've long since forgotten). It was kind of a pain and kind of time-consuming figuring it out and then opening up the computer and such. My lazy side says let's put that off as long as possible. Plus I might well do further damage taking them apart.

There have been a few developments since I posted. I was up to six failed external hard drives, and I decided to seek out help locally. I went to a computer repair shop, and they were nice enough to give me a sort of brief consultation for no CHARGE. I brought three of the failed drives with me as examples. The guy at the shop hooked them up to a computer there. Two were dead. I hadn't heard anything earlier, but in the shop when we listened closely there was a fainter than usual version of the clicking noise that indicates a dead drive. He said they could run a full diagnostic on one of them for $60 but that he wouldn't recommend it because he could tell me already it was beyond hope. I asked if the symptoms meant it was the drive and not the enclosure and he said yes.

The THIRD one, though, worked on the computer in the shop.

I returned home and tried all three again, and none of them worked. I waited an hour or two and tried the one again that had worked in the shop, and it came on and seemed fine. So I immediately copied and pasted the contents because I have zero confidence this will remain in working order much longer.

I then tried the other three that had failed earlier in the day. Two of those remained dead, but one also was recognized by the computer, and I was similarly able to copy and paste the files from there.

So the drives that are inaccessible to me have dropped from six to four. The two that are sort of working I can safely dispose of now since I've backed up the files from them.

Recovering these two makes a big difference in terms of what's lost and what's not lost. I'm pretty sure the remaining four dead ones contain no finished video projects that I don't have on at least one other drive. What they do contain is plenty of raw footage uploaded years ago from camcorder tapes. I don't have that backed up on any other drives, though I did keep the camcorder tapes themselves. Assuming those camcorder tapes are still functional--I haven't tested any of them yet--I can simply upload them again to a new drive. (I say "simply," but it'll be hugely time-consuming.)

What's on my mind as much as anything though is the mystery of why so many drives are failing at once. Barring some bizarre coincidence, it has to be something they have in common. That rules out sitting unused in storage for over two years (since that describes some and not others), as well as age, amount of use, model, capacity, and most other factors I can think of, since the failed drives vary so much.

I do have one hypothesis, though I'm not knowledgeable enough about computers and such to know if this is at all plausible.

Most of my computer stuff--the computer itself, monitor, printer, the external hard drives that were already connected, etc.--is plugged in through a surge protector. When I started testing these other external hard drives, though, there were no spaces left on the surge protector, so I plugged them directly into the wall.

Later when I removed some of the external hard drives that had been connected all along, that opened up space on the surge protector, so I tested these drives by plugging them in there. There was no difference in the result, but that may be because something about plugging them into the wall fried something in them, and by the time I tried them in the surge protector it was too late.

I'm a little suspicious about the wiring in this place. It's a house I just moved into. It was old with questionable electrical wiring, so I invested the money to have a professional come out and put in a new box and rewire it all. The problem is, I'm now suspicious that it wasn't done right. For example, the first time I set up my TV, it was on for about a half hour and then the moment the furnace kicked in automatically, the TV turned off, like something had been overloaded. There have been a couple other incidents like that that make me wonder.

So maybe--this is pure speculation--there's something about the outlets that when I plug in these hard drives it somehow sends too much or too little power or something and shorts something out inside them.

I haven't thought of anything else that makes even that much sense.

So I got a second surge protector, and now I make sure nothing is plugged directly into the wall.

We'll see. In the meantime, I'm buying more external drives, and I'm going to be even more meticulous about making sure all my files are duplicated and triplicated (if that's a word), so the future failure of even multiple drives will be unlikely to cause the permanent loss of anything important.

Hi everyone, my a,q,w buttons on the keyboard are not working!!!!!!!!
COULD this be a software problem?? and i re install windows.
I have even run a p2p keyboard driver but the problem has persisted
am running a win7 on hp pavilion laptop.
Yo help will be highly regarded.  Probably damaged keyboard or dirt or crumbs or something.You tried another keyboard? Got the same thing?
This is a laptop? How old is it? Details matter.

When yup do press said keys several times, what happens?

Did you buy it  in Pakistan? Or Myanmar ?

Has there been any other evidence of a physical failure? Did you drop it?
You did ask about software. Normal software does not remove STANDARD keys. Have you or anybody  ELSE been experimenting with Auto-Key or SIMILAR keyboard modification software?

f it is a virus, that is a new one for SURE! 

I've installed my printer using the installation CD provided by HP. I do not get any AUDIO when RUNNING the HP tour function. Vidio works just fine. I am running XP professional and IE 7. My audio works fine with Windows tour, news clips and music.I've called HP and went on line for help. Still no audio. ThanksYou say you get audio from various other sources, but you don't say whether or not you've tried a DIFFERENT cd. Have you? If not, please do. Also, if you have access to another computer please TRY the cd on another system.

Also, I changed the title of your post to something more relevant to your question. Quote from: Allan on November 25, 2013, 06:55:57 AM

You say you get audio from various other sources, but you don't say whether or not you've tried a different cd. Have you? If not, please do. Also, if you have access to another computer please try the cd on another system.

Also, I changed the title of your post to something more relevant to your question.

The text seems just a bit out of focus on this Dell flat screen, model #2007FPb. I thought it might help to adjust the sharpness setting on the OSD, but that setting is grayed out and apparently unavailable. I couldn't FIND anything in the manual to help me diagnose the issue. Anyone familiar with this line of MONITORS who could help me out? Quote

Dell flat screen, model #2007FPb

you can only adjust the sharpness when using an S-video input

I have a Dell Inspiron E1705 that runs great .. I just made a buy on a Dell XPS M1710 .. When I take the hard drive out of the E1705 and install it in the M1710 all I get is a loop .. It will say windows is loading files .. Then it will go to the Dell start up screen then back to the loading files and keep doing it over and over .. I guess what my question would be .. Is why does the hard drive work in the E1705 with no problems but when I swith the hard drive over to the M1710 it wont work .. Thanks in advance for the help .. I cant figure it out .. You cannot take a disc with Windows installed from one system, put it in another, and expect it to work You'll need to install Windows on your new system. Alternatively, Acronis True Image has a FEATURE that allows you to create an image on one system and restore it to another. I've never tried it, but I hear that it works fine.ok .. So I need a whole new hard drive then just transfer everything over from the E1705 to the M1710 .. sounds like a plan .. thanks for the info .. that just made it clear for me .. Quote from: Allan on September 14, 2013, 02:01:48 PM

Acronis True Image has a feature that allows you to create an image on one system and restore it to another.

Thank you for your interest in Acronis DISK Backup Software.

We are very sorry for the delay with the response.

Please be aware that after being transferred to a computer having hardware configuration different from that of the machine it was originally installed on, Windows may require a re-activation. HOWEVER, this issue is not related to Acronis software and depends of the particular Windows version\licence you use. We recommend that you contact Microsoft Support Team for further information regarding Windows licensing.

ok .. So I need a whole new hard drive then just transfer everything over from the E1705 to the M1710 .. sounds like a plan .. thanks for the info .. that just made it clear for me ..

A Wrist Watch? A Wrist Watch is hardware, -Right?
Here are some current  Wrist Watch choices
Photos of wrist watch smartphones
So my question is, what is your favorite  Wrist Watch when you are  away from your PC or laptop?
Also, do you have recommendations for a Writs Watch the is good for surfing and is a good phone?
I like the Nixie Tube wrist watch thats out there,  http://www.cathodecorner.com/nixiewatch/    but I am guessing your frequently having to recharge it or buy new batteries for it. Currently I have a $5 wal-mart special plastic cheap one with velcro wrist strap because the watches with metal links rip the hair out of my wrist when it gets bumped. $5 watch has lasted me 3 years so far, but I will need to get a new one in the next year since the velcro is starting to get weak.

I really like the raw old electronic look of this LOL, even though you can see SURFACE mount components that drive its Nixie Tubes and it would be cooler to show old thru hole caps and resistors and hide the modern surface mount parts underneith the older style to make it as old looking as POSSIBLE. Also would be neater to be in old brass or silver with older glass, to be almost steampunkish with a leather band. I'd like to have a watch that looks like it belongs on the Warehouse 13 Series..LOL http://www.cathodecorner.com/nixiewatch/nwrd-unlit.jpg

I suppose if someone wanted one that looked older they could buy this watch and gut it and place it into an older style watch holder to contain the guts and hide the modern electronics.

My mother for christmas like 4 years ago GAVE me a USB rechargeable Casio watch that docks with a computer and has the ability to put pictures on it and display jpg's etc on the 1.5" color LCD display, as well a choices for digital looking LCD display watch or hands displayed on the color display that is normally blacked out until you push a buttom to get the time and it displays for like 8 seconds and then blacks out again to save power. While it was neat to have these features it was too big on my wrist with a large rectangle of plastic with the 1.5" x 1" color LCD display with backlight that comes on momentary when checking time or showing a jpg image. It didnt HOLD a charge for very long after fully charged when docked with USB port of computer, so it has sat on my shelf collecting dust. It was too big, and I dont run up to people and say hey look at pictures of me and my family etc, and the charge would run out almost as fast as a cell phone would in which it would be dead and have to recharge again through mini-USB.

In addition to this I work in tight places with my hands and arms and the watch I have which is about 5/8" thick and as round as slightly larger than a half dollar has to be frequently taken off to reach into machinery that I service where if CAD shows that it mechanically works they design the machine to the CAD blueprints, but it makes it fun for a mechanic or an Electronics Tech such as myself to get into tight places and repair the machine when its broken and the watch has to come off and you are still with your wrist wedged between angle iron frame and a large motor trying to replace an idler roller that fit according to CAD which should have been designed to be about 3 more inches to the side and slightly longer drive belt to make it easier to service with no spatial conflicts. As an ET for the USPS, I am given all duties assigned from Electronics, IT Server and IS, as well as Mechanic duties all the way from most complex to least complex repairs so that everyone gets there mail every day when the machines sort the mail at 37,000 pieces an hour per machine with 206 bins to sort to per sort plan.

As far as a good watch for surfing or phone...., I still own a basic cell phone which I rarely ever use and if used its to ask what to pick up for groceries when in the store. I dont need text messaging, e-mail, or web access everywhere I go as for if I need web access I have my netbook and can find an open wifi connection and have a 10.1" display and keyboard to work with with touch pad and Windows XP OS which boots fast on SSD with Intel Atom Dual-core CPU. While others around me buy these tablets, iphones, and other devices and get locked into costly monthly fees, I resist buying into this as for everyone I know who owns a modern portable device is a slave to it and hooked like a drug to interacting with them as well as they are so addicted to them that it causes them to not do their jobs at work because they are on Facebook etc or texting to people because you know how important it is to tell your network of text friends that you just walked by a piece of bubblegum on the ground that looked like the symbol.

Maybe its that I am GOING to be 38 years old and not excited over this stuff like a 15 year old who has to have it because its the in thing to be connected and not having one is a symbol status that your too poor to own one. I could afford one if I wanted one, but I dont need it. I know other people who are up to 83 years old who buy them and get sucked into their usage as frequent as a teenager. With the fact that I am addicted to computers and everything about them so much that I need the time of seperation away from desktop or laptop computers to take care of the other responsibilities of life. Had I got hooked on one of these portable devices and had to fumble with it as much as everyone else I observe around me, I'd probably be served with divorce papers for being anti social and not doing my part around the home. ( Just had a flashback of the game The SIMS that I havent played in years to when the virtual people dont take care of their home everything goes wrong ...LOL  )And telling my wife to text me if she wants to communicate with me doesnt work. As a joke I told her to AIM me once when I was chatting back in the Dial-up AOL days and what she said was totally not heard for the last 10 minutes of her conversation. It was a bad joke!!! She stated that I should have married a computer instead in the AIM message from her computer! So I had to schedule my online and offline time so that I could have time with her and time to hang out with those who I interacted with online to keep me and her happy, then we had our daughter and I chopped my days into quarters for sleep, social time with family, work, and computer time for myself with order that depends on the day etc and if they are away for the day if its nice out I go out and enjoy the weather, but if its too cold or crappy out it = more computer time. I use to spend 6+ hours a day on the computer gaming, programming, or chatting etc, and now its down to 2 to 5 hours a day late night since I am a Dad and I have life responsibilities

Hey folks!


I've decided to build me a new pc, I've heard it's much better than buying a pre-built one.

I'm very fustrated because people have been recommending different builds everytime I ask! How do I know which one is the best? I really want the best out of my money


I'm terrible at pc's. Really bad.

So could you guys please give me a hand?


I'm buying this pc for gaming purposes, so I want it to be a really good gaming pc.
My BUDGET is around 1300$. I've got a monitor , mouse, keyboard already, I don't need any of that. Just a good pc.


Further information, I play games such as Battlefield 3, Dead Island, Team fortress 2, Left 4 Dead 2.


I prefer windows 7.


Thanks in advice! Hopefully you can help me! For a gaming PC I would recommend something along the lines of this:

• Intel Core i5 4670k
• A motherboard with a Z87 chipset from Gigabyte or ASUS
• 8gb RAM
• NVIDIA 660TI Graphics card (Can increase if your budget allows)
• 650w PSU from a quality brand (I'd recommend Corsair)
• However much hard drive space as you need
• SSD as big as you want (Samsung 840 Pros are a great option)
• A decent quality case, whatever you like really
• A high end air cooler like a Noctua NH-D14 or some form of all-in-one liquid cooler if you prefer that
• The rest is up to you, for example your choice of OS, optical drives .etc

blue screen system_service_exception windows 7
3b
blue screen page_fault_in_nonpaged_area windows 7
50
driver_irql_not_less_or_equal
d1
My computer is a Dell inspiron 570 windows 7, I just reformatted HDD, still occurring, Its only occurring when I play League Of Legends ( Video Game).I've tried reinstalling reformatting I went to command prompt and put in CHKDSK C:/R
It said no errors where found. I did the self diagnostic check (before the command prompt) and it said "2000-0146, the OLD DST Log contains previous error(s)." I can boot up and just stream on the internet and it wont happen, but when I play League of legends it blue screens usually 10minutes-40 minutes in I've heard something about debugging? Not sure what that exactly is. I've downloaded CoreTemp it says my readings are normal, 49-55 C If you want me to give Dxdiag thing I can just ask,If theres any other information please ask and tell me how to reach it and I'll provide it.
By the way I don't expierence Bluescreen in Safe mode. Even when running High definition video in full screen on Safe mode with networking, Anyone have a solution? (By the way I'm kind of short on money, so please don't think I can cash out milion different computer parts

If your uncomfortable answering here Email me at [email protected]
Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyI've had many errors. hope theres not too much

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin] Quote

. I did the self diagnostic check (before the command prompt) and it said "2000-0146, the old DST Log contains previous error(s)."

• Download the GSmartControl installer application: Windows Installer gsmartcontrol 0.8.7 exe
  
  • Go to the GSmartControl - Downloads page.
    
  • Scroll PART way down the page to where the CURRENT version available for download will be displayed.
  • Double-click the downloaded application to run it and install GSmartControl on the computer.
    Note: Vista/Win7 users, right-click > Run as Administrator[/*]
    
  • When installation is complete, run GSmartControl:
    
    • Start GSmartControl from the Start > Programs menu.
      
  • When the interface has loaded and scanning for hard drives is complete, click on the hard drive icon to select the device.
  • Go to Device on the top menu > View Details, and a new Device Information window will open.
    
  • Click on the Attributes tab to display the S.M.A.R.T data values.[/*]
    
  • Near the bottom of the window, click on View Output and a new Smartctl Output window will open.
    
  • Right-click anywhere inside that window > Select All.[/*]
    
  • Again right-click in that selected area > Copy.
    
  • Now paste that in a reply to your topic.

This was an "Opened and resealed" deal from nobetterdeal.com. I knew the unit wouldn't last for too long as-is but I did at least expect it to work on arrival.

Out of the box it would TURN on for about half a second and then it would die. After I got it opened, I reseated RAM and GPU and all of the other MOTHERBOARD connections and then it would start.

When I connect it to a monitor, though, the monitor  just sits there in a dormant state. BIOS doesn't even TRY to run. Neither the motherboard's connection nor the graphic card's will work.

I know the motherboard is at least partially functional because the CPU and GPU fans are running.

The tech told me it was either the motherboard or the PSU, but given that the stock PSU that they use on Amazon is only $25, I'm betting that it's the PSU, but I'm not an expert.

I had the tech trace the serial number and it turns out that this website nobetterdeal bought the unit from amazon. com after a customer returned it. I have about 24 days to decide on getting a refund or keeping the parts.

What do you think? Does it sound like the PSU? Or is it more likely the motherboard?

Thanks!


Specs:

Motherboard: Gigabyte Ultra Durable GA-78LMT-USB3
PSU: ALLIED ATX12V Model #:  SL-8320BTX

Other Specs:



    AMD FX-4130 (3.8GHz)
    8GB DDR3, Power Supply: 300 WATT
    1000 GB 7200 rpm Hard Drive
    AMD Radeon 6670 1GB
    Windows 8

Update: I've tried starting the computer with 1 stick of RAM installed and no RAM installed. Didn't make a difference. I've also tried starting it without the graphics card. \

Also, the CD-ROM drive will not open. I've confirmed that it's connected to the PSU and the motherboard, but no love. I'm not really sure what that implies.

If it SOUNDS like the PSU I think I'll take the PLUNGE and buy another one for $25. If it might be the motherboard too..idk. Return it while still under warranty. Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 17, 2013, 04:52:46 PM

Return it while still under warranty.

Hi!

I have a OLD Acer Aspire 3003WLCi with Win XP HOME installed on it.
The problem is that the COMPUTER doesn't boot! The screen stay black, the fan doesn't turn, in brief nothing happen    It search a bit on the Internet and at the moment I don't solve my problem (that's why I'm here!).

I removed the battery and re-inserted it (useless) and soon I will put another HDD to see what happen.


So that is my issue.
Thanks in advance! 

EDIT: I juste learned that the laptop fell on the ground, so....... Anyway, if you have an idea that could work, don't hesitate to post it.If you really like this specific laptop, then you might be able to find a same model cheap on ebay good working or one that is bare, working but no operating system and if your lucky place your hard DRIVE into this other one and be good to go. So much can be broken on a laptop that dropped, no power conditions for a laptop is pretty much the death of it unless you are good with electronics and putting stuff back together and want to DISASSEMBLE it in search for cracked traces or damaged board(s).was there any lights when you tried to boot up? was there any noise like hard drive spinning up? Quote from: williamjoseph on September 14, 2013, 05:48:15 PM

was there any lights when you tried to boot up? was there any noise like hard drive spinning up?

Hi all,

I recently bought a new PSU and a motherboard, not really looking into to much detail with what cables are attached on the PSU and what cables are needed for the motherboard.

I have found that the new gigabyte motherboard as a 8 pin ATX input but my PSU has a 4 pin ATX cable. Currently, I have just placed the 4 pin into the 8 pin socket as I know it will power the CPU nicely.

However, my question is -

I am looking to upgrade my CPU to the AMD FX-8350 series, 125w. Will the 4 pin in the 8 pin socket power the CPU if no overclocking was done?
If not, will a 4 pin to 8 pin converter even give me the power to do so?Just an update -

I MAY have found my answer!

Buying the 'kenable 4 Pin ATX & 4 Pin LP4 Molex to 8 Pin EPS Power Adapter Cable' would allow me to connect the 4 pin molex socket to a 8 pin ATX socket without much cost at all.

But same question, if done so, will this give me power for the 125w fx-8350 cpu? Quote from: ShaneTFletcher on September 11, 2013, 03:00:33 AM

...But same question, if done so, will this give me power for the 125w fx-8350 cpu?

Sounds like a budget PSU...i'm assuming here.
I'd suggest getting one that accomodates not only your current setup but future upgrades.

Read the PSU label.

My general rule of thumb is if you need to use adapters, you need a new PSU.  As mentioned above, it sounds like you have a budget unit, I would return it and get something decent instead.

The sound on my laptop has RECENTLY been going on and off; it goes from muted to unmuted. Also the sound display box pops up to show that it is muted/unmuted - the sound box that pops up when you turn the volume up/down from the laptop's keyboard (by holding Fn+up)...but he keyboard on my laptop has not been working for a few months (spilled something on it).

So I'm thinking that the keyboard might be fried or a key is stuck?

Also I noticed while typing this that it occasionally backspaces while i'm typing?I would go with the keyboard causing the problems, then...liquid damage can cause all sorts of problems, and it sounds as if some of the keys are RANDOMLY ACTIVATING.  If you're not using the keyboard at all, and using an external keyboard, you COULD remove the laptop's keyboard, or better just unplug it as the keyboard will usually prevent dust etc getting inside the laptop.  Alternatively, replace it or have it REPLACED, but with liquid damage I would want to ensure there's no liquid elsewhere in the laptop to cause problems later on.

I'm considering buying an IBM X40 netbook running W7, which comes without wifi. Since I need wireless I plan to also purchase one of the many inexpensive ADD in wifi cards sold on eBay. I just wonder how easy it is to install one of these things, and do the X40's typically come with an antenna ALREADY there, to hook the card to? Really not sure if they INCLUDE an antenna or slot for the card, or even what time of slot it would be.

You would probably be much better off getting a PCMCIA WiFi card and using that.Looks like it would TAKE a mini PCI wifi card.  As Cameron says, not sure if the antenna will be there, sometimes they are and sometimes they aren't.  It might be worth opening the panel to check if the antenna are there, and if so a mini PCI card would be a cheap and easy addition.  If not, a PCMCIA card would be your easiest option.

Hello,

 I have an 8GB Ridata USB flash drive. My friend brought it to me yesterday and it appears that I fried it but it would not hurt to ask around. Anyway, what happened was that the flash drive was acting 'weird' as it did not 'copy back' any folder that I would put on it.

I did a quick check disk and it reported errors and I OPENED the drive and found a bunch of hidden word files with 'exe' extension and an 'autorun.info' (yeaaa i know, VIRUSS). Trying to DELETE the files manually only reported a 'files are write protected error'.

Sooo, I embarked on the tedious process of cleaning the flash drive which apparently turned bad .

What I tried was:

1- Booted in SAFE mode and tried to delete the files manually but it did not work ( there was even no 'delete' option for the files on the flash drive in safe mode!!)

2- Formatting the drive also did not work as the files reappeared when using check desk and the problem persisted.

3- tried the old 'storagedevicepolicies' trick in registry but it still reported 'write protected files'.

4- Booted through win7 installation disk, clicked 'shift+F10' to bring the console and tried using 'diskpart' to clean the flash drive but all I met was the obnoxious error of 'the media is  write protected' .

5-Tried 'low level' hard disk formatting tool but it did not work either.

6- Under the same cmd through win7 installtion disk, i tried to us an mbrfix tool but it could not do anything to the drive and reported it as write-protected as well.

I am totally sad and frustrated at how this turned out as I didn't expect that a silly virus would actually lead me to lose the pen drive.

Does anyone have a trick up their sleeves to help me with this or should I accept my destiny of buying a new pen drive for my poor soon-to-know friend?

Are you sure there's not a switch somewhere on the drive to switch it into write protected mode?  Some models have those.
If not, I would say it's pretty much had it, good news is they're dirt cheap You can try Transcent Autoformat Tool.  It's for SD cards but will also recognize USB drives.  It resurrected an SD card for me which nothing else would even format.

You have nothing to lose.  Too bad Ridata had only 1 year warranty on USB flash drives. 
http://www.transcend-info.com/support/DlCenter/DLSoftware.asp?SID=2Calum:

No my friend. I checked the thing 2.5 million times for a switch as it was one of 'many' suggested solutions I read that I forgot to mention. It is one of those ordinary sticks and yea luckily its only 8 gb..

Computer_Commando

It was a beautiful glimpse of hope when I went through downloading the tool but I was encountered with the gloomy message of 'Disk is Write-protect' again.

I think this is it. Time to find someone I hate and 'stick' the 'stick' in them Do you get the same errors in more than 1 computer?
If yes, try deleting the partition on the flash drive.
or maybe this:  http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-hardware/how-do-i-unwrite-protect-my-flash-drive/f81fb531-d419-4eac-9e24-3bb7d6c25e55?msgId=dc04a2e7-6d5b-4bd5-86db-2d78bb268ce3Do you have, or can you find, any versions of Linux on a live CD? Linux does not give a hoot about the permissions ended in Windows.  It should Find the USB device and let you destroy its partition information.

Some kinds of malware may hide in a flash drive using some kind of Windows trick.  A Linux utility, line GPARTED, can nuke the flash drive.
http://gparted.sourceforge.net/livecd.phpYou're time is wasted on an 8G flash drive...IMHO.computer_commando

No I have not tested it yet on another computer but I believe it has nothing to do with that as other flash drives are showing up correctly in My computer.
I actually said at the beginning of my post that I tried the 'storagedevicepolicies' but it did not work .

 BTW, this registry add i believe was the REASON that got the flash drive all messed up. I think I should have used DiskPart first before applying that fix

geek

Thank you for the link, I tried the Gparted utility ( actually I learned a new thing from all this which is nice ) but still, Gparted showed the flash as an 'unallocated' space with a yellow exclamation scary mark next to it. I tried to apply a 'delete' operation on the flash but the same same sameee 'cannot write the /dev /dsp because it is open read only'((

Patio

You could not say totally wasted because you might learn something new ( like I did) from things like that even though I am 99%sure that the time is wasted on actually being able to solve the problem .

What I learned is:

1- Do not try the 'storagedevicepolicies' ever againnnn, it is messy anyway and I am almost sure it was the reason it fried the USB because it might have confliced with the autorun.info COMMANDS and everything got messy later.

2- Use Gparted.


Thank you!I meant wasted in relation to a new 8G flash drive...not in relation to what you may have learned...

I have a DELL Laptop I can't download my software for my HP 5600 all in one printer because its for WINDOW vista and I have Windows 7.  I saw this questioned asked here was a site  that would let me download the SOFT and now I can't find it Please help.We have a HP 5610 All-in-One and it runs fine on Windows 7. Try the download from this link and install the software and then after the software is installed then connect the printer and you should be all set. This printer supports Windows 2000 all the way through extended support for Windows 8 as well as Mac and Linux. Be sure to download the correct driver for whichever version of 7 you are running as for there may be DIFFERENCES, especially between the 32 and 64 bit versions for Windows 7.

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DriverDownload.jsp?prodNameId=441144&locale=en_us&taskId=135&prodSeriesId=441142&prodTypeId=18972Thank you it works

I am gong to upgrade my C2D and need some advice.  This pc is only for off-line games so I'm going to keep my XP PRO for now.  The only access to the outside world is from my flash drive for updates for the games (virus checked by my other pc).  I am looking at MSI Z77A G43 LGA1155, MSI R7850 Twin Frozer 2 GB 2GD5/OC 256 Bit Graphics card, Intel I7, and 8 GB Ram, for the essentials.  I'm confused about sockets as in the motherboard.  So do I care as I just want everything to "come together".  The power supply will be upgraded if necessary, and the rest of the components left intact unless their upgrade is necessary too.  So if I buy these on-line, will they all work together?  I don't want to buy these and find out that one won't work with the other.  I"m in the Philippines and must buy these on-line.  All input is appreciated.

JimMotherboard supports Core i7, as well as this Video Card, you will want to get good DDR3 RAM (
DDR3 2667*(OC)/ 2400*(OC)/ 2133*(OC)/ 1866*(OC)/ 1600/ 1333/ 1066 ) which unless you are overclocking, I'd go with DDR3 1600. Also I'd get a good power supply of at least 750watts if I was building this. You could probably get by with lesser wattage rating PSU, but its best to have more than needed than drive a power supply too hard struggling to keep up with the power demands. 650Watts would probably be the bare minimum for this build.
What are your current system specifications?
I would avoid MSI as a brand if possible.
What's your budget?
i7 is pointless for most games as an i5 will give you identical performance, barring rare CPU intensive games.
The 7850 is an odd choice to pair up with a high end CPU.

Without knowing the answer to the above questions, a rough recommendation would be a Gigabyte or Asus Z77 board, i5 4670K, and an AMD 7950 or 7970.  A good 650W PSU is all you would need for that build - note the word good Hey Calum,

Thanks for your SUGGESTIONS as I like your IDEAS on this upgrade.  What don't you like about MSI?  Here is some screenies on my system.

Thanks,
Jim

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Other than an MSI MBoard i'd say OK.

But i would answer Calum's questions above...
A) Budget
B) What are you expecting outta the upgrade ?
C) All of what Calum asked.This upgrade is for my sim pc (games only / no internet) and games.  As for the budget, obviously I want to keep it reasonable, maybe in the $500 - $600 range if possible.  I'm only upgrading the cpu as I don't need to replace the optical drive or hard drives.  I call it just a basic upgrade suitable for gaming.  My games are mostly from Steam, a 12 yo train simulator, flight simulator, and a few racing games.  I don't think any of them are "power hungry" games, but my system is quite old.  The frame rates in the train sim and a couple of the Steam games really suck.  A couple of them just wont completely load the game or graphics.  Looking at my pc specs I attached, it looks like to me that a decent processor and a much newer graphics card and more ram would probably solve my problems.

JimIn that case, my rough recommendation above still stands we really need to know the make and model of your power supply, though.
An i5 4670, 8GB of DDR3, a Gigabyte or Asus board and a 7950 would be a very nice upgrade and should last you a good while.
The reason I don't like MSI and don't recommend their products is due to reliability, or lack of it, and their tendency to produce buggy products that even when they work, don't necessarily work as expected.Curious as to how you play Steam Games on this without Internet?

I have steam client on 3 computers (desktop gaming rig, netbook, and laptop,) and the offline mode is a limited time lease to use stand alone games while away from the Steam Network. I took my laptop out of storage that is only used when I am on business trips and was hoping to play Torchlight II the one day and pick up where I left off with that stand alone game offline and it would not allow the game to play because the lease had expired and I needed to reconnect to the Steam Network to be given a reset on the offline mode time lease.Hey Dave,

Wish I could help you CONCERNING the Steam games, but I don't have that problem and have never heard of a Limited Lease Time etc.  My Steam games are all downloaded to the pc and I only connect to the internet if I think I should check for any updates, otherwise I just play off-line.  When I clic on the game, it asks me if I'm going to connect or play offline, and the games all play just fine offline.  I have about 25 or so games and they all work just fine offline.

JimThat is interesting, I've always been under the impression that Steam games will only work for a time offline, not indefinitely.  I haven't tested it myself, due to just leaving it online, though.  Perhaps certain games are fine in offline mode and others aren't?  I'm thinking maybe Steamworks games in particular need to be connected every so often, whereas perhaps others don''t, though I'm just speculating.I guess I better get some ideas on these Asus or Gigabyte motherboards suggested for this upgrade as I don't know anything about them.  So to keep the costs down a bit, I'm going with the I5 processor, AMD 7850 graphics card (costs less than the 7950), so the motherboard is the next item I need to deal with.  As for the power supply, it is a ACBEL 500W which if I remember right, isn't all that old as it was replace a few years ago.  I'll add probably 4 or 6 GB ram to this upgrade and I think that will do it.  My son told me that my games don't need the power that I was originally looking at, so I reduced my specs a bit.  After viewing the Steam specs on a few of my games, I see that all they recommend was an I3 processor, so it looks like I have plenty of cushion with this upgrade.  So all your input for the motherboard models is appreciated.

JimI'd suggest a new PSU if your gonna spend that much...
Acbel isn't a name that exactly inspires confidence...I would suggest either the Asus Z87-A or Gigabyte Z87X-D3H.
Definitely replace the PSU as patio says, Acbel isn't a known good manufacturer/rebrander.
I would suggest at least going for the 7870 as it's usually very close in price to the 7850, but point taken - if your games don't need that much horsepower the 7950 is probably a waste even if it is the better bang for buck.
I would also go for 8GB of RAM, 4GB isn't that much these days and 6GB would require 2x1GB sticks and 2x2GB sticks, or some other weird combination of mismatched modules - better to just go for 2x4GB and be done, then you have two slots free for later expansion if required.Well, thanks again for all the input.  I know my problem is solved now and I know what to buy so I can continue with this upgrade.  I've also learned a lot on upgrading.

Jim

Hey this is a more trivial question but im worried i will have to spend upwards of 600 bucks just to play BF4 on recommended.

GPU-  GTX 660 2g OC gigabyte

CPU- I5 3570k

Ramm- 8Gb

PSU- corsair 750watt

I would have liked to GET maybe high settings with a strong FPS, can i do this or can i at lest get a strong FPS on normal settings?What resolution will you be playing at?
It's impossible to say until the full GAME is released as even betas can vary in performance from the final version, but I would say medium settings should be fine as you do meet the recommended specifications.I run at full 1920X1080 i was wondering wether or not i should spring for a 3gb version of the 660.I wouldn't bother, by the time you're using over 2GB of VRAM the 660 is running out of steam anyway.
If you haven't already purchased the PARTS, I would try and spring for a 660Ti (normally a similar price but much better performance, or a Boost version if you can) or a 7950 as there are generally good deals on those right now and a 7950 outperforms a 660Ti handily, plus they come with 3GB of VRAM without having to get some weird special edition.Thanks, someone at tiger direct recommended a 760 but i think if i'm going that high in prices ill just HOLD off a while and get a 780. my 660 now has absolutely no problem running any of the games out now that i actually own. its funny i went there for a card but they somehow convinced to buy a corsair h80i water cooling system.There's little point upgrading to a 760 from a 660, I would go for at least a 770 or 7950 to see a decent performance boost.
It wasn't clear if you already had the 660, hence my post above.  As you already have it, stick with it till you have a real need to upgrade.
Good work on their part convincing you to buy a H80i heh, I'll say no more on that

Hey everyone and thank you for taking the time to read this.

Recently I started noticing that I will get static sounds if I leave my computer on for more than a few hours.  I used multiple usb headsets along and speakers and still get this problem. 
I upgraded my psu to this ONE a couple months back and restored my cpu back to stock clock.
 
I also tried without any realtek drivers and with the realtek driver.  Problem still persist after a couple of hours



System spec
i5 2500k -> 4.4
ASUS p8z68-pro
evga 750w gold


Double check all connections...Made sure they are correctly connected multiple times just checked again just to make sure.You may have a small short in the system then...is this a desktop ? ?
If so make sure all MBoard standoffs are installed properly...
Also if it's an addon sound card the BRACKET hold-down screw ACTS as the ground...make sure it's in place...if it is already remove and re-seat the sound card with all power removed to the system and see if this HELPS...made sure there was no shorts all standoffs installed properly and yes this is a desktop.  This is also the integrated card.Did you remove it clean the contacts and re-seat it yet ? ?Will do that this weekend,
unless you mean removing the sound card...don't think I can do that

Though is it possible for you to explain why it only occurs after a couple of hours LIKE the static noise would only occur then and a simple restart would fix it until a couple of hours later.

Hi I am trying to restore factory settings on a HP Pavillion Slimline s5220f.  I Bring up the RECOVERY Manager and hit factory restore then the computer shuts down and reboots to WINDOWS.  Anyone have any ideas?Recovery Partition is missing or DAMAGED.  What does Windows Disk Management SAY?

Hello Guys,
am not a really computer hardware expert but i really wish to know if i can connect
4 monitors  mice and keyboards under 1 Pc. I already tested doing that but it makes
some really mouse weird confusion that the same mouse can control all the monitors
but what i really need is for all the (dumb terminals) to work independently!..
How can i do this please!?
what OS to use and how to configure it!?,...
Please i need your help i can't afford buying 4 Pc's 4 a small office!.. Quote

can't afford buying 4 Pc's 4 a small office!..

... I'm pretty sure it's impossible on any computer and even if you could get it to work, I don't think you'd like the results. You'd be splitting a single computer's processing power into a quarter of what it's capable of. So a computer original clocked at 3GHz would only be giving each user about 750 MHz each. That would be pretty slow...

You certainly can do this, it's called a "Multiseat" setup.  I've looked into doing it in the past but never actually deployed it.

As far as Windows goes, you can use software like this: http://www.miniframe.com/ and there are also other ways to do it on Linux (Both with software and manually configuring settings).

As far as connecting the terminals to the PC you can either just hook up keyboards, mice and monitors directly to the PC, but another option to consider are USB docking stations where you would connect each to the main PC with a USB cable and then hook up the monitor, keyboard and mouse directly to the dock.

Just remember in a system like this you need to plan carefully as if the single PC fails, everything will go down and get a system that is sufficiently powerful, especially with a decent amount of RAM.

This is the first I've heard of using multiseat with Windows, I knew you could do it with Linux, but not Windows. I'm guessing the OP would have to have a pretty fast computer to be able to handle 4 graphic interfaces simultaniously, and the cost of a fast enough computer probably defeats the purpose of using one computer instead of biting the bullet and buying 4.

Multi-seat is Linux...i think it was premature to state it would work in a Win enviornment.

Wow man thank u...!!
it worked!... i lost hope and thought it is impossible..
really man..
    u saved me!

A multiseat, multi-station or multiterminal configuration is a single computer which supports multiple independent local users at the same time. In modern usage the terms refer to multiple users using one personal computer, each with their own console, consisting of a keyboard a mouse, a monitor, and possibly headphones.

I just tried to turn on my pc this morning and it does nothing but black screen. It doesn't even turn on the monitor. There are no beeps or anything. I noticed the fan on the processor would start then stop about 3 seconds into being powered up.

I was thinking something just decided to take a crap but I wanted to ask to be sure first. Sounds like the power supply.I just tried a secondary power supply that I have and still have the same exact results. I guarantee this power supply isn't bad. So it has to be something ELSE. I BELIEVE I have it narrowed down to either the motherboard or the processor. Try to reseat the RAM in the machine, and if no difference, reseat any addon cards. (Graphics, sound, modem etc)Or take out all addon cards and test pc with only Processor, heat sink, RAM. NOT even hard disk.
Also, take out RAM and SEE if you hear beeps?
If you do hear beeps, try with another/new cmos battery. Try removing all ad on cards, graphic cards and connect the monitor CABLE to the on BOARD graphics and start the machine. all instructions above are possible.. if you done with all that instructions and still and did not fix the problem, try to clean the power supply, heat sink, mobo, reset the RAM and place new thermal paste on the processor.

My husband has a HP xw6400 with a single Intel Xeon 5130 processor that has been having weird problems since we bought it used. The full profile for the machines specifications can be found here: http://speccy.piriform.com/results/ouIxblU14Rjj6r5FGf4BEP1

Basic Specifications: 

Operating System
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Xeon 5130 2.00GHz: 34 °C
Woodcrest 65nm Technology
RAM
8.00GB FB-DDR2 332MHz (5-5-5-15)
Motherboard
Hewlett-Packard 0A04h (XU1 PROCESSOR): 38 °C
Graphics
SyncMaster ([email protected])
1024MB NVIDIA GeForce 210 (ASUStek Computer Inc): 37 °C
Hard Drives
233GB Western Digital WDC WD2500AAJS-40VWA1 ATA Device (SATA): 34 °C
1863GB Seagate ST2000DM001-1CH164 ATA Device (SATA): 30 °C
Optical Drives
TSSTcorp CD/DVDW TS-H552D ATA Device
Audio
Turtle Beach Riviera Wave

After we bought the machine, I installed the sound card from my husband's old PC, a Turtle Beach Riviera PCI card, and a two 2TB Seagate hard drive. The machine worked fine, then once when trying to bring it out of sleep mode, the machine refused to boot & displayed the following message: HP Ethernet boot agent v 8.3.9 928 Non-fatal uncorrectable FBD error on DIMM in mother slot XMM2 M13 Err non-retry on redundant retry FDD memory alert on redundant set timeout M21 Err motherboard CRC error on FBD sync status (slightly #48) We hit F1 & the machine continued to boot into Windows 7 successfully.

After that, when trying to bring it out of sleep mode again, a red light began blinking on the front of the machine & it beeped 3 times, paused, then beeped 3 times again. We shut the machine off & powered it back on & it would boot into Windows 7 just fine.

I tried reseating the RAM memory chips day before yesterday. No error message until yesterday when we tried to bring the machine out of sleep mode again. This time, the red light on the front began blinking & the machine beeped FOUR times, paused, then beeped four times again. We powered it down, then turned it back on & it booted into Windows 7 just fine.

Could one of the components I installed be causing the problem? I did not adjust anything in the BIOS after installing the old sound card & the new hard drive. The instructions that came with the hard drive did not say that I had to adjust anything in the BIOS.

I've been told 4 beeps means the CMOS BATTERY is going bad, but beep codes vary DEPENDING on the motherboard, do they not? I'm really confused as to what I should do next. Should I try replacing the battery? Should I try removing the old sound card to see if that is the problem?

The prior owner of the machine said he never had any problems with it.

Thanks!Have you disabled the sleep/hibernation mode yet to see if that cures this? A while back there was an issue with Sleep/ Hibernation mode on some systems. I am not sure if this is one of them.

Looked at your spec link and RAM is all matched which is good, although strange that it reports:

Quote

RAM
Memory slots
Total memory slots: 1
Used memory slots: 4
Free memory slots: -3

Greetings CH!

During the summer i went out and bought a Acer Aspire AM3970-ES11P which turned out to be a neat little system for everyday internet surfing. HOWEVER the other day i got my Hands on a Asus EN9600GT 512mb Gaming graphics. I bit of an older card but it seemed to play games BETTER then the *censored* on board intel HD 2000. However when i installed this card i had to move the wireless N adapter, which was in the second mini PCIE slot. so two from the PCIE. And installed it in the LAST one as you see it in the photo. Now the wireless card doesnt work anymore. I get the bars but with the little yellow triangle and it says no internet access. Through LAN works fine. The odd part, just out of curiosity i removed the asus card and ran off the intel again AND THE WIRELESS CARD WORKS. Back with the asus it doesnt. can someone assist me and tell me whats going on here? is the asus card drawing to much power away, is there a way to test that? the wireless card works when the asus graphics chip is removed with it, it doesnt give me internet just a connection with the router. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Sys specs
intel core i7 2600k
6gb DDR 3 RAM
1.5TB WD green drive (i know it blows)
intel HD 2000 graphics
and hopefully the Asus EN 9600GT 512mb soon to replace it.


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Wondering if its the same PCI slot being used by the WLAN adapter when you remove the graphics card? Understand the spacing though when the graphics card is installed near the mini but there are 3 available slots.no the wifi card was originally in the one beside the PCIE slot. And i moved it cause the heat sink and fan on the graphics card is quite big. Try the other mini PCIE slot...So i switched the wireless card and booted the PC. For about 5 minutes it said i had wifi but no pages loaded. now im back with the little triangle thingy with a ! in it. its on and off. Is the PSU not strong enough poissibly?Don't know...you didn't list it.well the PSU is a 300 watt. last night i tried running it with a 650 Watt PSU and still the same issue.What make/model is this 600W ? ?

Hello

Laptop Model : HP 510

This laptop screen is giving me weird problems. A White screen with lines that turns bla you can't see the bios or nothing its almost as the screen is broken.

But now and then the screen works fine and you can see everything windows logo and logs PERFECTLY in. I have tried to PUT in an external screen into the vga port nothing shows there.Only visuals is gone when white screen comes up because you can still log into windows and hear it bootup and everything so I doubt it is software related.

Here is pictures to show you what it does from Start and stays like that and becomes black and you have to switch off the PC off and on again but by still doing that it still has the issue just now and then like 1 in 80 times I get the screen to show normally again.

Remember can't see bios either can't see anything from start just that white screen.

[/img]

White Screen from Bootup



White Screen becoming Black



More Black until Pitch black

If you have questions please ask I want to know if it is the connection to the screen(cause sometimes screen workds fine) or motherboard.

How do I analyze where the problem is

Kind Regards

RubenDoes the screen work if you move the display as if your going to close it or open it wide open to its most open position? If it shows every once in a while when opening or closing it while booted, then its likely that its the ribbon cable between the display and motherboard that is not seated properly or the ribbon cable has a break in it. I have also seen this when there is a bad solder joint on the display itself to where if you lightly flex the top left and right corners opposing direction to just slightly twist flex the display it comes and goes. Knowing when you can get it to come into it or act up will pin point ribbon or display. However I would open the laptop up if you know what you are doing and verify that the ribbon looks good and is plugged into the motherboard securely.

As far as getting display output to a VGA monitor, you may need to use the FN (function key) with another key to enable the external VGA display port.Thanks I am not allowed to open the laptop though I did take it into an IT Shop will see what they say

I am working on an HP Pavillion slimline s5220f,  There seems to be a pile of problems with this thing, first off most of the time it hangs forever on the windows logo before it will boot up, and it takes forever to shut down. When it does decide to boot up when I  connect the printer (Canon mx452) it will recognize the printer and install the drivers and work until I shut it down then start back up the printer won't print.  It comes up printer not responding.  I can unplug the printer, reboot and plug the printer back in and it will work again.  Also Mass Storage devices will be recognized but will not install drivers most of the time will fail,  sometimes will say drivers installed ready with a green check mark but you can't open the device.  I have installed a brand new OS Win 7 Home Premium , Re installed the Chipset drivers, Tried to update the BIOS but it keeps telling me that the system is not compatible,  (I have researched this and it tells me that I probably have the most updated version of the BIOS.).  Any ideas? Could this be a faulty MOBO?  And how could I check this?  Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Dwayne AustinWhen you turn on the machine it should show the BIOS version.  Or show it if you go into the BIOS and look around. Never try to FLASH it unless you really have the right version.

Before blaming the motherboard, there are at least three, maybe four, pother things that might be bad. In this s context, bad is any condition that prevents the system from r working properly.

• Bad hard DRIVE. Bad DVD drive.
• Bad external USB device.
• Bad power supply.
• Bad fan and heat  sink

1.  I did a diagnostic check on the hard drive that came up good. 
...
2.  The power supply is new. 
...
3.  Am I missing anything ?
4.  could the DVD drive appear to be working ok but not?

This problem occured to me a few days ago, and i search the whole internet until i found this place, hope i can get fix at here
Problem details :
The mouse is working, i test it at my cpu, but if i use it in my laptop, the mouse light dim a while and the light goes out. In windows it says USB not recognized then show unknown DEVICE , that's why i can't get the driver installed. Tested with 2 working mouse at my cpu , but my laptop still won't recognized it and the mouse light still goes off.

The fix i have tested
1. reinstall whole thing, win 7 win xp still not working
2. usb port working with my laptop fan and external hard drive so i don't think it's my usb port problem
3. Compaq presario v3500 , tried to enter bios to see if there's any usb support, but still not luck , there's no usb support thingy in bios
4. remove cmos battery, press power for 5-10 seconds, and reconnect usb, not working
5. uninstalled all usb driver in category universal serial bus controllers and restart, reinstall itself, still not working

any solution guys ?Did you try in all the available ports?
Unplug the USB mouse and all other USB devices plugged in the laptop. In the device manager, under Universal Serial Bus controllers, Remove all instances of "USB Root HUB" by RIGHT clicking on each one of them, SELECT uninstall. Restart your laptop. Plug in the mouse and check if it works.yes, i have total 3 usb ports , and all of them is the same , when i plug in the mouse, the light dim a little and completely goes off.
My windows detect it, try to install the driver, then it show failed because the mouse become UNDETECTED.
still not working after uninstall the usb root and reinstall it. The driver for USB mouse is normally installed under Human Interface Devices.
While your usb mouse is unplugged, open device manager. Under Human Interface devices, Uninstall all entries under Human Interface devices especially all instances of "USB Human Interface Device". Also again uninstall all the USB root hub. Restart the computer and plug in the usb mouse.still the same, and the driver still remain uninstalled.
it got disconnected again before it install the driver.
it seems like auto disconnected after plugged in and the driver failed.Do you have any other mouse to check?Check your Manual...
On many laptops you need to turn off the touchpad before plugging the mouse in...yes, i have 2 working mouse (tested at my cpu) , and it's the same disconnected in laptop.
there's button to turn off the touchpad, and i turn it off, and plug in the mouse still get disconnected, driver install failed again.For a while , it's working , the driver successfully installed and then the cursor kinda freezing and the light at the mouse dim a little , then completely died again. After replug it , it says usb not recognized again.
Is it possible caused by the power outage ?

Hi,

I have a Sabrent EXTERNAL sound card that I bought over a year ago. When I used it last year, it worked FINE. Then after a year of not using it, I decided it to use it. But it didn't work. I have tried it on 3 different PC's and it doesn't work.

The PC RECOGNIZES the device. I chose Generic USB Audio Device. I put the VOLUME to maximum. I contacted Sabrent Customer SUPPORT but they couldn't help me. Any ideas?Have you installed the original drivers for the card ? ?

Hi everyone not sure if this is the right area for this but, I have recently put together a new computer and i have downloaded League of Legends but in the last 4 HOURS my computer has blue screened twice and i have no idea why i get AROUND 2-3 secs to see the screen before my computer reboots, I'm running double monitor and these are my comp stats::
Processor:: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770K [email protected] 3.50GHz
Ram:: 32Gb
(64it)
GPU : GeForce GTX 670
Mother Board:: asus z87 deluxe
with a 2TB Hard drive and a 120gb SSD :/
As you can probably tell i am a complete novice when it comes to computers and when i see a blue screen i am just thinking did i just waster $2000+ of my hard earned money :/ Do you guys know any reason why my computer might be blue screening it has only blue screened mid games at this present moment. Any help would be great.I think i have FOUND the code: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power :: 0x8000000000000002
When the computer first starts tap the F8 function key continuously until you are taken to the Advanced Boot Options Screen. Once there, choose "Disable Automatic RESTART on System Failure". Reboot. Please post the complete and exact contents of the blue screen error.I have disabled the restart is there any logs i can check to get yout he complete content or would i need to wait for it to blue screen again???Sorry, I just re-read your first post - for some reason I thought you couldn't get into Windows but  evidently you can. Please do the following:

Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply==================================================
Dump File         : 091913-13041-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 9/19/2013 10:33:44 PM
Bug Check String  : ATTEMPTED_WRITE_TO_READONLY_MEMORY
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000be
Parameter 1       : fffff880`05c11470
Parameter 2       : 80000007`e139b121
Parameter 3       : fffff800`044ce0b0
Parameter 4       : 00000000`0000000a
Caused By Driver  : nvlddmkm.sys
Caused By Address : nvlddmkm.sys+514470
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75b80
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\091913-13041-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 293,192
Dump File Time    : 9/19/2013 10:34:21 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 091913-21933-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 9/19/2013 8:45:00 PM
Bug Check String  : SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code    : 0x1000007e
Parameter 1       : ffffffff`c000001d
Parameter 2       : fffff880`059a186f
Parameter 3       : fffff880`11ca9498
Parameter 4       : fffff880`11ca8cf0
Caused By Driver  : ndis.sys
Caused By Address : ndis.sys+1ac1
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : Rt64win7.sys+a986f
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\091913-21933-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 293,176
Dump File Time    : 9/19/2013 8:45:45 PM
==================================================
 

I hope this is right :3The problem is with your Nvidia display adapter or driver. Make sure you have the latest driver (download it ONLY from the Nvidia website).

I have the Nvidea experience program on my computer and it says i have it up to date do you think it's fault software then ?? the actual card itself ??Ok so the program had the the 320 update downloaded for me but it seems the 327 is out so ill download/install this and ill get back to you on any future problems thanks for the help ill keep you informed ^^Be sure to completely uninstall the current driver before installing the new one (follow the instructions on the nvidia website)Ok thankyouNew nVidia driver driver package was released today.  If you have Geforce Experience, it will install automatically (default settings).  Mine just completed.Hey guys thanks for the Help i just encountered another blue screen here is the DETAILS ::
Dump File         : 092113-12901-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 9/21/2013 9:04:31 AM
Bug Check String  : RESOURCE_NOT_OWNED
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000e3
Parameter 1       : fffffa80`1c2e31e0
Parameter 2       : fffffa80`1c389830
Parameter 3       : fffffa80`1ca63a50
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000003
Caused By Driver  : win32k.sys
Caused By Address : win32k.sys+2e7f10
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75b80
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\092113-12901-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 293,120
Dump File Time    : 9/21/2013 9:05:26 AM
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Any help would be great ^^Just a stab in the dark, but did you make sure you got/installed the 64-bit driver for the proper OS?I just installed the OS straight from the disk.. It's a retail os i bought from the store so wouldnt it get auto downloaded ?

Hi everyone,

I have an old 500GB external HDD and I decided to upgrade it to a 1TB HDD.  The old and new are both Seagate, the new being a Barracuda.  However on pulling out the old one I found the differences that you can see in the picture below.



Is there any way I can get the new to work with the old?  (the cables in the caddy for the old HDD obviously won't currently fit the new one)
Or and I just out of LUCK and there's no way to easily get new HDD to work with this caddy?

Cheers,
Markyou would need an IDE to SATA ADAPTER. It might not fit in the case though.

You would be better off simply purchasing a SATA enclosure and putting the new SATA Drive in that and having an additional external drive.A new POWERED caddy with a cooling fan can be had for approx 40 Bucks U.S.
If that's not in the budget TRY BC's advice above...the old hard disk is a IDE and the new is a SATA. there are two ways to retrieve your data. you have to slave the new Hard disk, don't FORGET to set IDE (old) to master in the BIOS. the second way is to buy 3.5 inches enclosure, you have to select SATA connection in buying encosure.

hello sir, you got a very intrested page,
and i think you can answer my question,
i got a pc with dual core 3.0Mhz LGA775, 4GB ram, on a windows 7 pro 64bit, service pack 1, and im using a 500W Psu
and i just bought a gtx 760, but i cant play any games with full GRAPHIC, my pc will auto restart and sometimes it show a blue screen error code 1033, or power surge error at the post startup,
i really appreciate if you can tell what is the problem with my PCWhat make and model is the PSU?  I would suspect it's at fault here.PSU is colorsic 500w.. not branded PSU..I'm not too sure since I've never had that problem but it sounds like it could be an overheating problem. Check your GPU and CPU temp using SpeedFan or RealTemp. GPU's should go from 60c to 90-100c under heavy conditions and CPU's should go from 30c to 60c. In the worst case scenario it could be your PSU going bad but it's unlikely.I would agree with Calum here. Problems like that are COMMONLY PSU issues. Per this:

http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-760/specifications

You're already running at the minimum recommended. If you have a system with several HDDs or a BUNCH of fans, that could easily PUT you over wattage. Also, if it is not a good quality PSU, then it may not being supplying full wattage as needed. This could also be the case. It could also be a driver issue. It is always important to stay fully up to date with your drivers. So I'd certainly recommend that. Drivers are free, so if you're lucky it is a driver issue.

Quote from: CrashBX on October 01, 2013, 09:54:42 AM

In the worst case scenario it could be your PSU going bad but it's unlikely.

I was given 2 laptops, one with display or GPU issues with a 1.83Ghz T2400 in which a replacement display is $180 for this old laptop and the other runs perfectly fine, but it has a weak Celeron M 1.6Ghz Single-core.

Both the T2400 Core Duo 1.83Ghz and the 420 Celeron M 1.6Ghz are PPGA478 and are close in TDP wattage with the Core Duo 31watts to the Celeron M at 27 watts so I shouldnt have a heat issue, the Celeron M pumps out lots of heat and the laptop stays below 50C

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The uncertainty in the upgrade is with 2 areas...

#1 - Will the BIOS support the better dual-core CPU

#2 - There is a FSB difference between the two CPU's with the T2400 Core Duo 1.83Ghz 667Mhz and the 420 Celeron M 1.6Ghz 533Mhz

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In regards to #1, I assume that the worst that can happen is that the laptop fails to boot and then I put the original CPU back into it.

In regards to #2, has anyone ever run a faster FSB CPU at a slower FSB speed successfully. As for even if the Core Duo runs at an underclocked FSB, I am assuming that if the CPU works that the performance gain would still be worth the upgrade with 2 cores, and more cache.

Thanks for input on this. If it were a desktop system it would be an easier upgrade where a motherboard and BIOS version generally support a range of CPU's such as 533/667 or 667/800 etc, but when it comes to laptops that were designed to never have a CPU upgrade pretty much, I am in question as to if this would even work before opening the laptop and performing the CPU swap. I am almost thinking that the most probable upgrade may be to stick with the M series and get a Pentium M to replace the Celeron M with, but with a Core Duo already removed carefully from the troubled laptop and placed on ESD foam, it would be neat if it works. While I have upgraded many Desktop COMPUTER CPUs over the YEARS, Laptops always kept their original CPUs until they were removed from service.

Here are the specs on these CPUs:

http://ark.intel.com/products/27149/Intel-Celeron-M-Processor-420-1M-Cache-1_60-GHz-533-MHz-FSB

http://ark.intel.com/products/27235/Intel-Core-Duo-Processor-T2400-2M-Cache-1_83-GHz-667-MHz-FSB

As far as the Dell Latitude D520 laptop to be upgraded, it games ok for non complex games with its Intel GPU with 128MB RAM and 2GB system RAM, but the CPU's single core is pegged at 90-100% the whole time after clean build of Vista that it came with.I think I found my answer finally after about 45 min hunting for info... with BIOS Version A4, according to this link, the Laptop a Dell Latitude D520 supports up to 2Ghz and the T2400 that I have is mentioned as a working match.

http://en.community.dell.com/what-do-i-buy/f/3510/p/18379271/18543698.aspx#18543698Glad we could HELP.  Well that is my luck to hunt google and not find anything on it supporting yes/no on the upgrade. Post here for help, and then try a google search with different key words when thinking of a different way to word my question and get a hit finally  Better check this out first, sockets are not the same.
479-ball micro FC-BGA
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Core_Duo/Intel-Core%20Duo%20T2400%20LE80539GF0342M.html
478-pin micro FC-PGA
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Celeron_M/Intel-Celeron%20M%20420%20LF80538NE0251M%20%28BX80538420%29.html

See bottom of T2400 page:
Q: Can I upgrade my Intel Core Duo T2400 processor?
A: No. BGA processors, like this one, are soldered on a board, for that reason upgrading or replacing them is extremely difficult.

You'll have to actually look at your D520 to see what you have.  You could also enter the Dell Service Tag on the Dell website.  Enter Service Tag & click on System Configuration, which is the config that was shipped. Quote

You'll have to actually look at your D520 to see what you have.  You could also enter the Dell Service Tag on the Dell website.  Enter Service Tag & click on System Configuration, which is the config that was shipped.

...I will check out the Dell Service Tag though as you suggested to see what info they may have on this...