Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I have an Aopen case that is 11 years old PART NUMBER 91.92434.028 serial number 21029206jk. I am attempting to rebuild the unit, but aopen has no listings for the unit on their site so I am unable to get any INFORMATION about the unit. I need to know if it is worth my time and effort to rebuild, or should I scrap it for parts?
could you attach a PHOTON of the case?I do not have my camera available I think my DAUGHTER took it with her when she moved out, and I have no other device to take photo's with.
You can DLoad install and run SIW...Free...it'll tell you exactly what's in the PC.

Regards,

I opened the topic because I'm more freaked because of the extreme stupidity
that bother me. That's why I decided to speak to you in the hope
that I would somehow be able to solve a problem.

The problem is as :

The other day I gathered some parts of the computer something I have bought
some and made a solid computer, everything works nicely just bothers me a single catch.
When turning on computer the power cord to the power supply and I want to press the power switch.
The computer starts to turning on nice 2 sec, then paused 1-2 sec (all coolers that started spinning stop and
begin to turning off ) and then computer starting to turn on just normal and the system is normally rises and everything works normally.

Once again, turn off the computer, reset it or anything computer turns on normally without it stopping, until you pull out the power cord from the power supply and
plug it back after a few seconds, then stops again in seconds and then continue as normal.

Now that bothers me to freak out, I know that the little things but I can not take it, all I was trying of course immediately Power supply was my first pick, thought of as the
most logical solution because I am aware that it is not good power supply, but when I put another 400w though as strong as it it were same problem.

So I take of and graphics, and all the optical drive and hard drive and memory. Left only the processor and the motherboard powering by power supply and the same happened again while
turning on, coolers started to turn on and then stopped spinning again later after few sec everything is normal, because now I do not think the power supply is the problem., because is no possible to power supply is to week to powered by only the processor and motherboard, without any other components.

Configuration of my PC : AMD x4 2.2 ghz, 2gb Ram, 80gb hd, dvd, and NVIDIA 210 graphic card


Someone please HELP me SAD and sorry for my bad englishWelcome. You are not the most stupid. I am, and have been for along time.

About your power off/om problem. You have already done the diagnostics or testsw needed. You have found that some part of your computer is taking too much power when you turn it on.

The power supply was made to deal with this problem. It will shut down and restart when power limit is exceeded. The power supply is doing what it must do.

 Here are the two most likely things that cause excessive power at start up.

1. A hard drive that has a diary spindle bearing.  The hard drive must be repaird or replaced.
2. An electrolytic capacitor on the motherboard that is at  the end of life. There is no easy way to prove this. A technician has to use special tools to isolate this problem. The capacitor has to be replaced.

In either case, you have already found the temporary solution. You just keep starting  the computer until l it becomes stable.  There is no verified proof that this wail damage the other parts of the computer.  So you may just ignore it if you wish. This is often called stupid. But I do it anyway. It works for me.

However, Windows does not don well with computers with this bad behavior. Eventually Windows will create a ERROR and the Windows System software will have to be repaired.

One alternative is to have a dual-boot system. The reduces the damage done by a power supply the re cycles because  of a high power surge at start up.

And yes, I know what I am talking about. I be be stupid. But I know what I know.
From another forum, here is a similar post.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/260625-28-computer-shuts-seconds
But I still say my answer is better.

Thanks mate, its good reply... Im thinking too, that electrolytic capacitor on the motherboard is at  the end of life.  But i would see what will be when i buy new PSU ... You can buy a multimeter for about the price of a power supply. However, capacitor testing is not always an EXACT science,  electrolytes can change behavior will voltage.

Here is a reference:
how to test electrolytic capacitors on motherboard
The above is a collection of videos by bung.
A lot of information. Not tall truly accurate.
It is possible to replace a bad capacitor without destroying the motherboard. Special tools are needed.This problem is known as a "cold boot issue".  It can be caused by several things.  The troubleshooting you've done is a good start.
I would recommend updating the BIOS to the latest version to begin with, as that can often help with this problem.This behavior can sometimes be indicative of RAM that is not fully supported by your motherboard at stock settings. The computer tries to boot, detects an issue and reboots to try different settings. In some cases you may see the system do this more than once depending on how many tries it takes before it finds settings that allow your PC to boot. When you power the PC off fully, these temporary settings are lost because they have not been saved to the CMOS, but rather were only temporarily set to give you an opportunity to get the system up and running and set the proper settings for your RAM from within the BIOS. This may explain why the issue repeats after powering the system off and starting it up again.

Did you check if your motherboard officially supports your RAM before buying? It could be that this is the issue that you are dealing with. For this reason, I agree with Calum and second the suggestion of upgrading the BIOS as a first step. Newer BIOS versions often introduce native compatibility with a broader variety of hardware. It might solve the problem.

Failing that, you can try setting the manufacturer recommended voltage, speed, and timings for your RAM in the BIOS to see if you can get the system to COOPERATE with your RAM. Again, this is assuming that this is the issue in the first place. Remember that it's just something to try, and I am by no means certain about it.

If you have more than one stick of RAM, you can also try running the system with just one stick of RAM in, and see if the problem persists.

Good luck getting it sorted out.

some times while i am playing a game called hereosofnewrth my pc freezes at first it slow down i mean very slow down like pictures after each other for 2 it first slow down for 2 sc very slow i mean
z and speakers make a noise like zzzzzzz then computer completely freezes and sound keep on and i find my graphics card very hot can some 1 tell me what to do i am runing my pc on a 42 inch telvision with hd cableThe PC is overheating.
If it is a new PC, use the warranty and have it fixed.
If it is not a new PC the heat sink FAN on your CPU has failed or is failing and should be replaced. there you can also check your hard disk or motherboard... make sure you also put your pc in a place where it is not heaty so the air flow will go rotational.While overheating is a real possibility, you should check for it first before jumping to conclusions. 

To check your temperatures, download and run HWMonitor from here: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html.  This will state the temperature of different components in the computer.  Once that's open you should start the game and run it for a while (But not long enough so that the machine completely freezes). Afterwards, close the game and see what temperatures it shows under "Max" for both your CPU and graphics.

Post these temperatures here along with the specs of your machine, that will help determine if overheating is the cause of the problem.played for 1 h  graphics  temp 76  possessors are 65 i don't know where is the cpu 

 can the problem be from the power supply as its an bad cheap 1 ii bought my computer 3 weeeks ago but  i  BUILD it up most of  hardware got warranty on it

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Pics are pixelated blur when sized to view to read them.what temp reading you want and i will tell you just help me plzJust Post them...no need to ask which ones we want...cant post a big IMAGE bec of size i thinkReplace the PSU...
You did state it was a cheapo unit.

I have a Dell laptop RUNNING Windows Vista and wireless connectivity to a printer. The printer I have connected to it is a Canon Pixma MX452 printer/scanner/copier/fax. The exact configuration(which I ran from Vista's install new hardware feature)has the printer set up as a fax machine and leaves me unable to print ANYTHING from the laptop. Clicking Print within a PROGRAM brings up a DIALOG box asking to ENTER a fax address. Declining to enter cancels the print job leaving me unable to print from the laptop.Re-set the default printer to the printer itself in Control Panel...they should both be listed as print devices because that's how Windows sees them...
If no joy-joy or they are not both listed re-install the Printer drivers and re-boot.

I have a Compaq Presario CQ56 laptop that won't turn on. I've tried taking out the battery and unplugging it, holding the power button down for a minute then putting it back together again, but this does nothing. Any suggestions? Thanks.Chances are it's dead.
Oh wow that sucks. I'm not sure how old this laptop is though but it does seem like this laptop has died.There are STILL a few options to try.

Try booting the laptop with A/C power only, take the battery out and leave it out for this test.

Alternately you can try booting the laptop with the battery only.

Let me know what happens.Doing that didn't help.Unfortunately, laptops are now like cellphones & most electronics and are considered disposable.  When they used to cost $2000 or more, one would repair it.  At $500-$1000, it's only worth repairing if it costs less than $100.Based on Compaq Presario CQ56-100 Notebook PC series - Specifications, that computer is not very old.  It came with Windows 7 and has a 320GB hard drive.  If it's less than 1 year old, it's still under manufacturer's warranty.  Did you buy it?  It's not my laptop, but from what I know the warranty was made void by something the original owners did so It's no longer covered.I've taken the laptop apart and looked at the mobo, it seems fine. I'm going to clean it up a bit just to make sure. So either:
1) The mobo (or part of it) is dead
2) The adapter provides enough voltage but does not provide enough current (in which case I will need something to test the current or rent/ buy a new adapter to to test)Seems that's the way many of them fail, just won't turn on.
I've had the same experience.  Sold it to a supplier who parts it out.If you want to troubleshoot further with the Laptop then try replacing 1.)CMOS battery, 2.)use one stick of RAM, 3.)remove network card Quote from: jason2074 on April 15, 2011, 01:03:07 AM

If you want to troubleshoot further with the Laptop then try replacing 1.)CMOS battery, 2.)use one stick of RAM, 3.)remove network card

I have a Compaq Presario CQ56 laptop that won't turn on. I've tried taking out the battery and unplugging it, holding the power button down for a minute then putting it back together again, but this does nothing. Any suggestions? Thanks.

My keyboard was WORKING fine then out of nowhere it just stopped working completely.  I If I hold the key down for a few seconds it may or may not register on my computer but other than that it's not working.

So first I tried to use different usb ports and nothing, still the same thing. Then I CONNECTED it to my laptop to see if the keyboard was the problem because I just bought it. When I plugged it into my laptop it worked fine.
Do you know what the problem could be? Do I need a new Mb?New Keyboard?
If yes, Take it back. It is a hardware failure.

Note: USB ports can fail when a device draws too MUCH current. You laptop may have a higher 'trigger' point. That is normal. The keyboard shoddy tony even come close to the tireder level.
Thanks man, do you mind explaining the shoddy tony and tieder level trigger thingHi

Do other USB devices work Ok with the computer like thumb drives or a USB mouse.

You could check in windows device manager that the keyboard installed correctly ie no exclamation marks.

If there is check to see if the keyboard needs any drivers for that version of windows.Problems with USB devices are much to common. The most frequent issue is stuff does not comply with the technical standards.  It is a QC issue. But in sopme cases it can be a driver issue. Newer versions of Windows have a full set of generic USB device drivers.

For a long LIST of post about this, go to the search box above and type in:
USB PROBLEMS

A good generic keyboard is about $15 plus shipping. Fancy  keyboards are not always high quality. On Amazon I found:

Quote

Microsoft Wired Keyboard 200 for Business - Black by MICT9
    $19.95 $15.20

Hello my name's zach

I have made a bet with a FRIEND (perhaps foolishly) that i can destroy a HDD using only software so that the MBR will be undetectable through BIOS. Any tips on how to do this? So far i'm thinking that i'll be trying to corrupt the firmware on the HDD, that's just a INITIAL thought i've still got a lot of investigating to do yet.

Things to note;

It needs to be undetectable in Bios,
It needs to be UNRECOVERABLE if possible - i mean completely break the HDDThanks for stopping by. I'm LOCKING this THREAD and restricting your posting privileges.

Hey guys! What do you think about Hi-fi 3D Biostar "Z87x"? I have heard its new but i dont know if it is good? Does anybody have some experience with it?

this is really unknown for me..hope I can hear your knowledge with this, will be glad to know introductions from it.

im planning though to replace my old system so if you have any comments about this i hope i can hear it soon.While it's not a terrible board, Biostar is a budget manufacturer.  I have used many of their boards and EVEN use one in my own HTPC and they have been great but SINCE you SEEM to be going for a pretty high end machine (Z87) you would probably be better off with something from Gigabyte or ASUS.

While the enhanced audio may be slightly better than the standard onboard stuff the difference won't be huge and isn't really worth compromising the rest of the system for.  If audio quality is important, you'd be best to get a separate PCI-E sound card. Quote from: camerongray on July 18, 2013, 06:10:50 AM

While it's not a terrible board, Biostar is a budget manufacturer.  I have used many of their boards and even use one in my own HTPC and they have been great but since you seem to be going for a pretty high end machine (Z87) you would probably be better off with something from Gigabyte or ASUS.

While the enhanced audio may be slightly better than the standard onboard stuff the difference won't be huge and isn't really worth compromising the rest of the system for.  If audio quality is important, you'd be best to get a separate PCI-E sound card.

when i install RAM to my pc after few days,,i won't BOOT and corrupt the RAM?i changed three RAMs but all of three BECOME corrupted? :-[thanks in advanceWrong RAM...large Fonts are unnecessary BTW.Hi

What you are saying, in normal operation can't happen. Can you supply the motherboard details and a link to the the memory you are buying . It could be a bios SETTING that is set to too high. advice on that is better supplied with all the details. Quote

It could be a bios setting that is set to too high

I've got a Logitech G110 and on my desktop running Windows Server 2003 x86, whenever I plug a usb drive into the built-in usb port on the keyboard, I get a message saying that the usb power has been exceeded. It happens no matter which usb port I plug my keyboard into, either the front or back ports. The keyboard itself works fine and doesn't throw up any error messages, until I plug a flash drive into the keyboards usb port. However, on my laptop running Windows 8, it works perfectly fine and transfers files to the flash drive just as fast as the laptop's usb ports do. Not really sure what could be going wrong here, so any tips or help would be great. ThanksIf the keyboard and flash drive is working properly, see this MS Link http://support.microsoft.com/kb/835967 on how to turn off USB error messages. Quote from: jason2074 on July 28, 2013, 02:32:14 AM

If the keyboard and flash drive is working properly, see this MS Link http://support.microsoft.com/kb/835967 on how to turn off USB error messages.

Just founded out this from the logitech site regarding the USB port.

High-power devices, for example some flash drives and high-speed external disk drives, may not work properly.

I may be up for some form of award for most stupid thing ever done, but hopefully someone out there knows how to fix this.

Basically I instaled a new graphics card on my computer, I turned it on all working fine. Windows asked me to restart, so I did.

It proceeded to load the VISUALS through the old onboard graphics card (after nothing coming on screen and me PLUGGING my monitor back into the onboard port), so I restarted the computer and went into BIOS and disabled the onboard graphics.

Now when I turn it on, no matter which VGA port I plug my monitor into, nothing is coming onto the screen. It waits about 30 secs and then beeps once long and twice short (apparently this is error 5001 according to a google search - that is apparently a graphics card error).

Any ideas on how to fix this? 

Thanks  Remove the new graphics card.
Restart the computer, USE the original VGA port.
Of that does not fix it, remove the CMOS cell, wait a bit, replace it.

This would force the BIOS to GO back to factory settings.
Next time, do not disable the video in BIOS until you are sure you have everything the WAY you want it. But I double there is any advantage of disabling the on-board video, but I may be wrong.
Great advice, thanks  I took the CMOS cell out and left it 15 mins. Worked perfectly afterward.

Now to get the new graphics card working Glad it worked.
With a little effort, you can make the new card the #1 video in windows. But in BIOS both VGA ports will show the same image. Have an old monitor of TV set? use it for a second monitor. There are adapters that can work even  old analog TV sets, the kind they no longer sell.

How do I actually go about doing that.

My goal is pretty much to run my new 32" TV as the main monitor, and my old 19" LCD monitor as a second screen for emails/forums/anything where I need to sit close to it.

My available ports are the HDMI out on my graphics card and my onboard VGA port. My graphics card doesn't support multiple screens (its a G-Force 210 - I'm not a gamer   ).

Ps. That dancing banana smilie is rather odd! I always enjoy the smilies on forums I'm new to

hello
I have a SYSTEM by this specification:
Summary

      Operating System
         MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
      CPU
         Intel Core i3 2120  3.30GHz   
         Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology
      RAM
         8.0GB DDR3 665MHz (9-9-9-24)
      Motherboard
         ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. P8H61-M LE (LGA1155)
      
I am TRY to install virtual machines (such as vmware,virtualpc, ...),but when finish installing
and reboot system, blue screen happen during windows release .
help me please!!!Re-install your MBoard chipset drivers...re-boot ...and try again.i do
but not solved Quote from: safir62 on July 22, 2013, 06:19:24 AM

... blue screen happen during windows release .

Re-install your MBoard chipset drivers...re-boot ...and try again.

hello
I have a system by this specification:
Summary

      Operating System
         MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
      CPU
         Intel Core i3 2120  3.30GHz   
         Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology
      RAM
         8.0GB DDR3 665MHz (9-9-9-24)
      Motherboard
         ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. P8H61-M LE (LGA1155)
      
I am try to install virtual machines (such as vmware,virtualpc, ...),but when finish installing
and reboot system, blue screen happen during windows release .
help me please!!!

Hi,

I am not sure if this is the right forum to ask this, but I will ask anyway. I work in a very noisy call center where we make outbound calls to potential CUSTOMERS from our computers using the VoIP telephone system on computers that are running Windows XP. The problem is that there is so much background vocal noise from the other people who are making calls, that the people that I call can hear it. Our company provides us with the Microsoft 3000 LX headset, and while this is not a bad headset in most situations, it doesn't quite CUT it in this call center.

So I went on the Internet and tried to find a better headset and I settled on the Boom C headset  http://www.knowbrainer.com/NewStore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=113#details and the Buddy 7 sound card  http://www.knowbrainer.com/NewStore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=278&idcategory=19#details

While this headset reduces more noise than the 3000 LX there is still quite a bit of noise that can be heard. And I was just wondering if anyone knew of a noise suppressor or noise gate that could eliminate all of the background noise?

Thanks,

-cinque8Welcome to CH. This site has volunteers to help outwith any computer problem.
My personal commercial and non-profit experience may be of some help to you.  In any serious enterprise here sound quality and customer perception are important, any compromise on quality is a bad decision. What they hear represents the company. Is chaotic confusion the image you want to project?
A decent call center has to have acoustical rooms for each speaker. t is similar to a recording studio. Any cross talk is not acceptable.
Background rejection  of over 50 db is your target. Sound cancelling MICROPHONES can do about 40 db in average conditions. So acoustical treatment of your environmental is mandatory.
I worked in the BROADCAST industry for many years.  I have received piratical training both electronics and  and acoustics.  Sound cancelling microphones are helpful, but have a very limited ability to correct environmental problems with sound. I KNOW what I am talking  about.
 It is much more cost effective to put in acoustical panels and forced air ventilation rather than experiment with electronic gadgets that can not deliver. You will not find microphones that can give 60 db of cancellation for under $1200. The $1200 represents a projected cost of making each cubical sound  prof and adding a small air conditioner to each. (Six cubicles.)
Now if anybody can sow me a 60 db cancelling microphone for under that price, I will eat crow.Hey Geek,

thank you very much for your reply. With the product that we sell, (credit repair for a firm that has an A+ rating with the BBB) it is very important to make it appear that you are having a one on one conversation with the client, and all of that background chatter makes it sound like you are selling something. Which is why I spent over $200 of my own money to try and get a better mike. The people that I bought the mike and sound card from promised the sky, but of course I have contacted their technical support, and now that I have spent my money they are singing a different tune, although they do offer a refund. In any case, if I stay with this company for any length of time, I will pass your info on to them about the acoustics. Thanks for the info! It was very helpful!

-cinque8

Hi
In rebuilding my system I have inadvertently caused a fault. I have a separate internal hard drive that contains logical partitions for data and photographs. somehow in rearranging things I now have a disc that if connected causes windows 7 not to boot and if not connected windows boots normally.
Examining the drive with Paragon recovery media shows the disc and the extended partition and the three logical partitions. The logical partitions are shown with partition id of 0x07 which I THINK is NTFS, fine but the file system is marked as invalid. I cannot attempt to do anything with the individual partitions, all greyed, out and I am afraid to allow Paragon to fix any BCD or other partition info in case I make it worse.

Has anybody had any experience of this and a fix?
RegardsPost a screeenshot of Paragon showing the drive's Properties...Hi

Only time I have had that is when the drive was over 2tb and i was USING version 2010 of paragon.

LisamareeHi
I am using the recovery software so cannot grab and keep a screenshotHI
This drive is a 3Tb WD green drive and the Paragon software is 2010, I think, I am not at home at the moment to check. Hi

You need a later version of Paragon to work with 3Tb drives.
Was the drive supported by the motherboard or did you need to run the WD install utility to set the drive up first time.
3TB drives present all sorts of challenges, it helps if the motherboard bios supports 3tb drives and the OS as WELL if either don't there could be a problem.
Is the drive in the Bios detected as 2.74TB or about 800gb ?
Have you updated the Service packs on windows 7 ?
Are you running Paragon from windows , Linux boot version or windows PE boot version ?

Thanks

LisamareeJust a friendly note.
This is a home built, Right? You are using a very large HDD, a 3 TB drive. As you know, problems people have using such large drives with Window 7 have been widely DOCUMENTED. A lot.
Here are my personal observations.
1. The OP could abandon the large drive and net the system up and running with a smaller drive. Most likely the performance would be as good, or even better.
2. The OP could partition the drive as a smaller drive and forget about  using the extra space. Again, the performance would be about the same.

Just  my observations.
Suggested keywords for search:
windows n7 and 3 TB drives

This one from Seagate is helpful.
http://www.seagate.com/support/downloads/beyond-2tb/
You should be in front of the PC for diagnosis...

So i own a PC notebook HP G61-400SP with windows 7 on it. Recently i DISMANTLED and reassembled the laptop in order to clean its air ways for better colldown purposes. Soon after that i noticed that when i closed the lid (i have it SET REMAIN turned on when i do that) after i open it up, the screen freezes, goes black with two kind of pixelated white stripes, then i'm forced to manually shut down the pc for it to come back to normal. If i hibernated it, close the lid, reboot, it's all fine. The computer keeps running normally (i guess) while it's frozen, skype CALLS and videos keep running, just the display gets screwed up so i'm guessing it's a hardware problem. Thank you since now for your attention.Turn off ALL Windows power saving features...they are petty much useless IMHO.

I had following audio set up on my PC - Logitech Z4 speakers and headset plugged at the back of PC in Realtek integrated sound card. As Realtek offered at that time CONNECTOR re-tasking option, I was able to use speakers and headset in the same time without loss of volume and quality (at least for my ears). Than I build a new system on Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 motherboard also with internal  realtek sound card. But connector re-tasking is gone. I have bought two internal sound cards from Creative (gone now) and Asus Xonar DG 5.1. assuming that all external cards have those options - well, obviously not. I am completely unaware about sound card options and what it all means, so can someone help me PLEASE to FIND sound card which can allow me to use headset and speakers at the same time from the back of PC, not using front jacks. Or explain what I need. I have cable splitter at the MOMENT, but loss of sound is 50% on each - headset and speakers. My budget is around 50 pounds and I am running windows 7 64-bit. On Asus Xonar DG 5.1. (PCi), there is additional line out jacks, but when I plugged headset or speakers in - nothing happened.
I have looked for sound cards for some time now, but jack re-tasking is not mentioned in specifications, and as I have bought two cards already without success - I don't know what to do, but that set-up is IMPORTANT for me. Any advice would be appreciated

What do you think about Hi-fi 3D Biostar "Z87x"? I have heard its new but i dont know if it is good? Does anybody have some experience with it??? Advantage/Disadvantage?

I am totally thinking to try 1 of this type of motherboard for my gaming to outstand and see what would be the experience like but anyway if you have anything to give an advice for this please tell me some reviews.. I would be glad to hear it from your experties.  There are no real reviews out for the Biostar boards with this feature, but I would expect it to be much the same as previous boards with "Creative X-Fi" and similar - i.e. a cut down version of a good product making it no better than others, or in fact the same product with some fancy drivers and a new interface, which is still no better than others.
Onboard sound is better than it used to be but still, IMO, no match for a good dedicated sound card.  Sound cards aren't exactly pricy, the Xonar DG or DGX starts from less than £20 and is miles better than onboard.much better? i am not so sure about that. I would not spend any penny for a discrete graphics card these days. its tough to hear the difference at all. better rely on a motherboard that has already good quality sound. That also means: dont go with the cheapest, ESPECIALLY if output should be analog. 

here is a (german) review on another biostar Hifi that says sound is good here: http://www.technic3d.com/review/mainboards/1506-biostar-hi-fi-a85x-und-asus-f2a85-m-pro-im-test/13.htm#Biostar_Hi-Fi_A85X

also tweaktown gives biostar Z77 boards good grades for quality http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5213/biostar-hi-fi-z77x-intel-z77-motherboard-review/index12.html

anyway the Z87X seems not be available yet Quote from: Mrfreddy on June 30, 2013, 06:42:52 AM

much better? i am not so sure about that. I would not spend any penny for a discrete graphics card these days. its tough to hear the difference at all. better rely on a motherboard that has already good quality sound. That also means: dont go with the cheapest, especially if output should be analog. 

here is a (german) review on another biostar Hifi that says sound is good here: http://www.technic3d.com/review/mainboards/1506-biostar-hi-fi-a85x-und-asus-f2a85-m-pro-im-test/13.htm#Biostar_Hi-Fi_A85X

also tweaktown gives biostar Z77 boards good grades for quality http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5213/biostar-hi-fi-z77x-intel-z77-motherboard-review/index12.html

The issue with On-board sound is that they typically offload all processing to the CPU. Not really a huge deal but depending on the use case having that dedicated Audio Processor can be useful. "post-processing" features like X-Fi crystalizer are sometimes available with on-board, but they will use the CPU for processing tasks (whereas with an appropriate dedicated sound card they will use the sound card's Processor)

Thats new to me. Is there any chance to see the differences? I have no idea if its really worth to worry about that

the X-Fi XtremeMusic doesn't have a X-Fi Chip

It's the Xtreme Audio that didn't have an X-Fi chip and was basically an older card rebadged, the Xtreme Audio was identical to the Xtreme Gamer.

That aside, CPUs nowadays are fast enough that offloading sound processing to a sound card doesn't noticeably increase performance in most cases, so it's more about audio quality and any software tweaks applied through drivers or bundled software packages.
I could tell the difference between onboard Realtek (I forget the model) and my Xtreme Audio, and again between a newer Realtek chip and a Xonar DS.

I have alot of NIC's that I need to FIND some of the drivers for but, I DONT know what I am looking for on THEMI'm locking this thread.

Me and my friends are having somewhat of a SMALL gaming party this weekend, but there are four of us and only two laptops. I was wondering if there was a way to hook up both of our laptops to the television for the other two to see what is going on on both screens without much effort. This is a fairly wacky question and I don't think this can work, but you never know.Not really clear on what you are trying to do, but it sounds like you are trying to get 2 differing displays out of 1 computer?

It is possible to have 2 monitors (with great difficulty - as I am currently finding), but you won't be able to do something like multiplayer gaming on 1 computer with 2 players using 2 monitors.

But hey, there's always a DECK of CARDS - or everyone's FAVOURITE, monopoly...
The simple answer is NO, you can not have two laptops going into 1 TV with a split screen.

My printer is showing horizontal lines whenever blue ink is USED. (Not streaks)

Changing cartridges makes no difference, nor cleaning or aligning.

Does this mean a new printer?You have done the recommended method of replacement of the ink, -right?
There is not really  a whole lot you can do. Did you try the old ink cart to see if that makes a difference? Clean out any wasted ink.

Otherwise, yes you may have to buy a new printer.
The model you have is a very low cost  entry level printer. But is excellent for  home or small office use. Generally has good REVIEWS and is remarkable in its prince range.
Replace it with the same model for well under $70 at some outlets.
If you do buy another, pay attention to the warranty terms. Some require you to return the item to the manufacturer, not the store.

For some reason, the price on this printer depends on the local store.  So you will have to contact the local outlet directly and see what the sale price is.
BTW: Some places still ASK over $110 for this model. Who KNOWS why.Did you try cleaning and aligning only once, or more than one time?  If only once, try it again, maybe two more times.  After each run, compare the results with the prior runs.  Any change?

This might HELP: http://usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/printers_multifunction/pixma_mp_series/pixma_mp280?CMD=MIXED_SEARCH&mName=PIXMA+MP280&mType=PIXMA+MP&pageKeyCode=ekbresults&searchString=prints+lines+across+page&BASIC_SEARCH_CURRENT_TOPIC_ID=1061&BASIC_SEARCH_CURRENT_TOPIC_TYPE=0&RESULTS=RELEVANCE&RELEVANCE_START=1&RELEVANCE_COUNT=25&CONFIGURATION=1011&PARTITION_ID=1&TIMEZONE_OFFSET=null&USERTYPE=1&isSecure=false

Is it still under manufacturer warranty?

Raandom kkeyss on my kkeyboaarddd aaare repeaaating. aasss you cn ssee, they aare mostslly the a's aaandd some other random lettersss. aaandd them some don't repeaat. ome letterss dddon't work aaaltogether. i'm reaaalllly too tired to go baaac anddd baackspaace alll thesse repeating etterss ssso i'll lelaave them here sso you cn ssee, aaslsso ssometime i'm misssing some letterss, i aam not sspeling them wrong. my shifft kkey aaallssso isn't woring. my kk isss missssing unllesss i pressssss harddd, I hve tried control paanell repeaaat raate sslow ddown. I HAAVE trieddd unddoing my kkeys aandd cleaning them. aaallsso, I recently, likkke aan hour aago, ffixeddd my laaaptops ffaaan by undddoing the baaackk but not taaakking it offf entirely to ffix my incrediby crzy louddd ffafaan. it waas going baaaat**BLEEP**. I'm SORRY iff it's hardd to reaaaddd but aany help woulllddd be great. I cnt aa fffoorddd to buy aa new one, i hve no cue how MUCH it cossstss to take to get fixeddd aandd i needd this ffor colllege in aa week. Does the same problem happen with an external USB KEYBOARD?with external keyboaaaarddd, it'ss worse. every other lletter woullldd be a number. anddd it'sss not on number llockkk either. Tool alert.

my extranal hard drive problem put in pc not open & click open pc comand the disk is g is not formet  do you want to format now .my data need
please help me data backup solutionThe POST you GAVE is hard to understand.
You had or have an external hard drive.
You made a backup of data using that drive.

Now you have put that drive into your PC and Windows says it is not formatted.
Is that RIGHT?

DO NOT FORMAT.

You must use the same adapter or interface to read the data.

See this link tutorial created by JAMES Litten. Fix link
http://html5.litten.com/how-to-fix-external-disk-drive-suddenly-became-raw/
How To Fix: External Disk Drive Suddenly Became RAW

EDIT:
jason2074, That is an excellent link. Great information. Everybody should read it.

I've been using Windows XP on my desktop for years now, and out of the blue the other day, I started up my COMPUTER and got a message from microsoft saying that since I first activated Windows XP, my hardware has significantly changed and that I must re-activate within 3 days. I tried the online activation and then noticed that I didn't have the networking icon in the system tray. I then opened up Networking properties and didn't see anything but my VPN, which couldn't connect. Device MANAGER showed only the VPN for network ADAPTERS, and didn't show any dreaded "Unknown Devices" nor any devices with the yellow ?. Hitting scan for new hardware didn't do anything. I CHECKED in my bios, but the onboard NIC is still enabled and just to be safe, I loaded the default setting and then double checked that the onboard NIC was still enabled. That didn't help anything in windows. I did a clean WIPE and reinstall of Windows XP and still didn't see my NIC listed in device manager. I wiped that XP as well and tried installing Windows Server 2003 (been wanting to try it for a while to act as NAS) but no luck there. Not really sure what to do now since my computer acts like the NIC has just grown legs and run off. I also did check to make sure the ethernet port on it is still seated tight (and still physically there) and it seems just fine. Oh, and also there are no flashing lights on the NIC or the router and I tried 2 different ethernet cables that I confirmed worked on my laptop.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I created an account on here just to post and ask about this since I've found some helpful answers on other people's posts throughout the years.Unfortunately it sounds to me like the NIC is completely dead.  No lights to even indicate it's recognising the cable is a bad sign, as that'll happen with or without the correct drivers, before an OS even loads.  I think your best bet is to get a separate NIC, they're cheap enough.

Edit: also, welcome to the forum!Crap, that's what I was afraid of. No chance it could be a bios glitch and an update could help? I'm not sure myself if the bios can control whether or not the lights come on... If the NIC did die, do I need to worry about anything else on the mobo dying? And what could cause it to die? It's unlikely to help, but a BIOS update could be worth a try before buying a new NIC.
As for what could cause it to die, there are many things.  One of my friends had his NIC taken out by lightning, but his board is still working fine apart from that to this day.  It could also have "just died" - maybe a hairline crack in a solder joint, or some other fault which is basically invisible.A new NIC card will cost you 15 Bucks tops...25 to 70 for wireless...
Go shopping. Quote from: patio on July 21, 2013, 06:40:31 PM

A new NIC card will cost you 15 Bucks tops...25 to 70 for wireless...
Go shopping.

Hi, I am having a serious problem with my desk top. The other day, a fuse blew in my house cutting power to my computer (my computer was plugged into a surge protector). When the power was back on and I tried to turn it on, the console would turn on i. e. all the fans would spin, the lights would turn on, but my monitor got no signal, my mouse did not turn on, and my keyboard did not light up. After turning it on and off a few times, it turned on and all the sudden worked like normal. Then, today, I turned it on and it did the same thing as before and I cannot get it to work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Hi

Do you have a multi meter?. If you do power the computer up and check all the power supply voltages. If you don't have a meter then perhaps try a DIFFERENT power supply. Also check the cmos battery or replace it.
If neither of these ideas are  possible then perhaps some more detail about the computer like the age and components would help to pin point the problem.

Lisamaree  Quote

If you don't have a meter then perhaps try a different power supply.

Sometimes I use just the touchpad instead of a mouse. Twice now, bookmarked pages that I'm viewing have suddenly shrunk in size (fonts, graphics, everything). The pad settings are all in the middle range. I'd like to know how to undo this. Running Windows 7, Dell laptop, Firefox.
ThanksYour touchpad probably features a "Pinch-to-zoom" feature, SIMILAR to that on smartphones.  You should be ABLE to use this gesture to zoom back into the page.  Alternatively you can press Ctrl and '+' to zoom in and Ctrl and '-' to zoom out.Or, press Ctrl + 0 (the number) to reset your zoom level, sometimes easier than ZOOMING in our out MULTIPLE times.Worked, thanks so MUCH!

Sir/Mam,
when i HIT the space bar of my logitech keyboard, new window of search option opens and continues for every TIME i hit the KEY, i m using windows xp os. plz suggest me the remedy for the same.
thanking you.Did you change regional settings?
What about the other keyboard you have?
Does your country require a SPECIAL keyboard?
Have you read this?
Change the country or region setting
Does that APPLY to your problem?

Hello. I'm running an old Windows Vista machine, bought in 2008, and I haven't touched the innards of it at all, with two exceptions: Once when I acquired it to pop in a PCi wireless card in order to be able to use the internet in my basement, and another time to replace said card after it started to malfunction. Other than that though, it ran very smoothly up until... I want to say about a week ago, maybe less.

Within the last week, I've GONE to turn on the COMPUTER and it powers on for less than a second before shutting off again. This repeats two or three times before I can even get to the boot screen. After that, during the process of loading, the display will flicker black, then back to normal again, sometimes several times within a few-second interval. Occasionally when it does this, it will power off as well. Other times it'll just... stop doing it and be fine for the rest of the night.

Also very recently, I've had incredibly slow internet, often dipping down to as low as 1 Mb/s (from about 54 Mb/s). This is the same problem the old card was having before I replaced it, and that was about two months ago now. The card is a Linksys Wireless-G PCi card, not necessarily the fastest thing I could be using but it was fast enough up until recently.

I legitimately have no idea what's going on and don't have a whole lot of money to replace major components/the whole computer, but I'd like to know what's going on so I can save money to fix it eventually.

EDIT: Perhaps I should share my computer specs.
I'm running Windows Vista Service PACK 2, on a COMPAQ Presario, 2 gigs ram (unknown maker, can't exactly crack my box open to check), 2.00 ghz processor (intel pentium dual CPU E2180, never been upgraded), and the sound and video cards that came with the computer (nvidia geforce 7100; some realtek thing) with the PCi card listed above. It was purchased in 2008. I am reasonably certain that it's a hardware problem, because all the software runs with minimal to no trouble.Sounds like it could be either the PSU or the motherboard at fault here, if the PC powers off entirely rather than just rebooting when you have the flickering screen.
Either is going to be fairly DIFFICULT to diagnose remotely, without physical access to the machine, so in all honesty my recommendation would probably be to take it to a shop and have them diagnose the problem.

i cant get into my LAPTOP how can i get into it? can i just delete everything?A little more INFORMATION might be helpful. EXACTLY what is going on? What is the problem, what caused it, what is currently happening, what OS, what discs do you have - anything and everything that would be helpful for us to be ABLE to assist you.On top of what Allan said I believe this issue is best dealt with by a local computer STORE. We cannot potentially work with/give advice on hardware where the password is forgotten as it poses a security risk to ourselves and to the forum - as we cannot prove that the computer belongs to you. I hope you understand.

We have a NAS Drive that the enclosure had failed an the drive is still good. I attached it to another unit to add space an see the contents of that drive so I can move it off to another unit. It shows the drive as partitioned off but, none of them are ACTIVE. I have the choice to make it a dynamic drive but, worried that the data will go with it.  Maxtor ST3500630AS 500 GB Shared Drive IIWhy would you wanna switch it to dynamic if your goal is data retrieval ? ?thought that it would of reactived the partitons Hi

The nas box you took the drive from was running embedded Linux. So the drive was setup in a format that isn't read by windows. You would need a Linux BOOT cd like Parted magic to view the files or Paragon disk manager which will also file browse the nas drive.

Lisamaree  Quote from: Lisa_maree on July 30, 2013, 04:14:59 PM

Hi

The nas box you took the drive from was running embedded Linux. So the drive was setup in a format that isn't read by windows. You would need a Linux boot cd like Parted magic to view the files or Paragon disk manager which will also file browse the nas drive.

Lisamaree

Why are you assuming it was running Linux / ?

The POWER SWITCH on my HP Mini 210 Netbook broke off the other day and right now, I've got to use a pocket KNIFE to pull it back to turn it on. There's a SMALL plastic tab on the switch that connects to the outer plastic piece (the part that you actually TOUCH) and that tab has broken off. Does anyone know how to fix that or a site that sells replacement switches? I can't find any on ebay or google.HP has them...

1.CONNECT the cable to you FIRST serial port(com1 usually the top one if you have 2) on the back of your PC. You must make SURE the serial port is enabbled in the bios of the PC
2. connect the other end of the null modem cable to the consule port(not the serial port) of the NOKIA (do not turn on yet)
3. On your PC open hyper terminal and create a new connection choose com1 and make sure of the following settings
Bits per second 9600
Data bits 8
Parity NONE
Stop bits 1
Flow control Hardware
Hit ok and you should see a blinking curser in the uper left hand corner.
4. Now turn on the NOKIA and you should see the bootup in the hyper terminal screen.

Hi,
I am having what I suspect are near terminal problems with my laptop. The laptop won't BOOT up, it gets stuck at the black WINDOWS screen. I have tried to restore computer using internal recovery option (after pressing ESC at initial screen) and using recovery disks (after changing the boot order). In both cases it COMES up with the colour background but the dialogue box that I imagine should come up giving me recovery options never appears.

Don't know what else to try. Will replacing the hard drive fix the problem? I have important files backed up.

My laptop is an HP Compaq Presario CQ56-110SA with Windows 7.

The LAST time I was able to boot up, the system froze while I was sorting some files in Windows Explorer. When I tried RESTARTING, it wouldn't boot as described above.

Quote from: Polorky on August 03, 2013, 09:27:52 AM

...Will replacing the hard drive fix the problem? I have important files backed up.
My laptop is an HP Compaq Presario CQ56-110SA with Windows 7...

Hi,
I have bought a new pc couple of months ago. I used to get couple of BSOD EVERY day till my computer didn't boot any more. after lots of checking it appeared that the problem was caused bu my video card. when I inserted the card to another slot of my mother board the problem was solved till 3 days ago that my computer crashed again. I checked my event viewer and saw the BugcheckCode 80 it seems it is about fault page filing. I ran  windows memory diagnostic and it says
"The Windows Memory Diagnostic TESTED the computer's memory and detected hardware errors. To identify and repair these problems, contact the computer manufacturer"

  - Results

   LaunchType Manual
 
   CompletionType Fail
 
   MemorySize 8143
 
   TestType 10
 
   TestDuration 290
 
   TestCount 12
 
   NumPagesTested 2083670
 
   NumPagesUnTested 1122
 
   NumBadPages 4
 
   T1NumBadPages 0
 
   T2NumBadPages 0
 
   T3NumBadPages 0
 
   T4NumBadPages 4
 
   T5NumBadPages 0
 
   T6NumBadPages 0
 
   T7NumBadPages 0
 
   T8NumBadPages 0
 
   T9NumBadPages 0
 
   T10NumBadPages 0
 
   T11NumBadPages 0
 
   T12NumBadPages 0
 
   T13NumBadPages 0
 
   T14NumBadPages 0
 
   T15NumBadPages 0
 
   T16NumBadPages 0
 
 
I am not sure whether it is important but couple of days ago when I turned on my computer it didn't boot and SAID "CPU fan error" and entered BIOS although the fan worked.
It is worthy to add that the problem happens randomly mostly when my computer is on for couple of hours and not necessarily running heavy programs. I was actually using chrome when it happend
I tried googling the problem but I am not much of an expert so I actually have no idea what is wrong with my computer and what to do next. I wonder it could be my mother board. I appreciate any suggestions.

my system information

OS: windows 7 x64
8 GB of Ram
Intel core i7 CPU

ThanksIf it's a few months old, return it under warranty.well, things don't work this way actually. I have the warranty cards of each part (RAM, CPU , ...) but I didn't bought the whole case. It was assembled.

I would really appreciate it if you can tell me which component causes the problem.As I said the problem happens randomly. They won't accept there is a problem with the computer.Let's check the BSOD errors first.

Please go to C:\Windows\Minidump folder. Do you see any dmp logs from the folder?  If yes, then read the instruction of the second paragraph below.If not, configure kernel memory dump debugging information under startup and recovery.

> Right-click My Computer and choose Properties.
> Go to Advanced System Settings - Advance Tab.
> Under Startup and Recovery, click Settings...
> Look for 'write debugging information' and use Kernel memory dump
> Checkmark overwrite any existing file

If there are latest created minidumps under C:\Windows\Minidump folder, please post the latest dmp logs (atleast 5) by :

> Highlight (holding ctrl key) and choosing the dmp logs by hitting enter or left mouse click.
> Right-click and choose send to desktop.
> When on desktop, highlight all dmp logs and right-click and send to compressed zipped folder.
> Upload zipped filder and share the link by registering here https://www.box.com/
* minidumps log sample 010613 - 16676 -01.dmp -> 01 is for month - 06 for day - 13 is for year.Hi,
Thanks for replying. There is a mini dump file. But I am afraid I have no access to "box.com" because of my internet connection. It says "The server at www.box.com is taking too long to respond. " probably due to filtering. I have access to skydrive, google drive and dropbox if any of them works for you. Is it possible to share the file there?
 I desperately checked the thread for any replies today. I don't know anyone with sufficient computer knowledge and most the people I have talked to say wait for the problem to get worse. I am looking forward to your answer about the substitution site for sharing the file.     

Thanks,Hi again
I noticed there is a "attachment and other option" so is it okay to use it for attaching the dump file? the zipped file is not that big (54 kB)Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyHi,
There are the results:

==================================================
Dump File         : 080113-28080-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 8/1/2013 3:23:55 PM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a3`195900d8
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 3       : fffff880`00e2c900
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000005
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+7cd40
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.17727 (win7sp1_gdr.111118-2330)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+7cd40
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\080113-28080-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 296,864
Dump File Time    : 8/1/2013 3:25:32 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 073113-22370-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/31/2013 10:37:13 PM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff834`108b285e
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`013a2961
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000005
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+7cd40
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.17727 (win7sp1_gdr.111118-2330)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+7cd40
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\073113-22370-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 296,864
Dump File Time    : 7/31/2013 10:38:38 PM
==================================================

Return the RAM for replacement...check the MBoard Manual and select specific RAM off of their QVL list...Could you please explain a bit more you are saying that there is something wrong with my RAM and it needs to be replaced I didn't understand this part "select specific RAM off of their QVL list." Your error messages are RAM related...
All MBoard manuf. publish a QVL list for RAM...stands for Qualified Vendor List...it MEANS the specific RAM modules listed have been physically tested on that specific MBoard and are recommend by the Board manuf.Thanks for replying. Let me ask one more question. I hope it won't seem silly. I have heard video cards have some RAM too and I had a few problems with my video card as I have explained in my first post which was triggered by the slot of motherboard. Is it possible that this problem would be related to the former?
 By the way the model of my Mboard is ASUS P8H77-V LE. Is it true that it only works with one stick of RAM?No...

Quote

    4×240pin

Memory Standard
    DDR3 2200(O.C.)/2133(O.C.)/2000(O.C.)/1866(O.C.)/1800(O.C.)/1600/1333

Maximum Memory Supported
    32GB

Channel Supported
    Dual Channel

Is there compatibility between MB ASUS M5 A78L-M LX/BR and AMD Phenom II X4 - 965 Black Edition? I've been working with both, about one month, WITHOUT any issue. At boot, a message shows CPU incompatibility, but works fine. In MB's specifications, CPU supports 95 W, differently from PROCESSOR, with 125W of power.
In a future time, could I experience some problem ?

Thanks. The processor is not listed to be compatible with your motherboard pertaining to the cpu wattage output. It is best to follow the recommended components to avoid any unwanted effects or damage. You should stop using that CPU, if the board is only RATED to 95W you run a very real risk of blowing the VRMs on the board, which can potentially CAUSE a fire.

I have this phone and I have pictures I like 2 transfer 2 my computer and when i plug it into the usb it searches 4 the new HARDWARE then it ask for 6238com (data_if) driver. Does any ONE out there have this phone and knows where i can get the driver 2 download my pictures 2 computer, or have any IDEAS what i need 2 do,

THANK you
JackiesangelsThe driver...if needed will be at the phone manuf. site.

While I was using my computer it suddenly turned off and the screen went blue and it then said "beginning dump of physical memory". It told me to reboot the computer if I hadn't seen this screen before, which I did, but I had this problem some months ago and the computer has been working fine since then...Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyDump File         : Mini062813-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 6/28/2013 1:58:43 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000003
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf69b9864
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini062813-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 6/28/2013 2:00:11 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini012513-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 1/25/2013 1:46:08 PM
Bug Check String  : THREAD_STUCK_IN_DEVICE_DRIVER
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000ea
Parameter 1       : 0x86e017a0
Parameter 2       : 0x87353f60
Parameter 3       : 0x87200e80
Parameter 4       : 0x00000001
Caused By Driver  : nv4_disp.dll
Caused By Address : nv4_disp.dll+18cfe
File Description  : NVIDIA Compatible Windows 2000 Display driver, Version 56.73
Product Name      : NVIDIA Compatible Windows 2000 Display driver, Version 56.73
Company           : NVIDIA Corporation
File Version      : 6.14.10.5673
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     : nv4_disp.dll+2166b
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini012513-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 89,563
Dump File Time    : 1/25/2013 1:46:08 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini112712-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 11/27/2012 1:33:58 PM
Bug Check String  : THREAD_STUCK_IN_DEVICE_DRIVER
Bug Check Code    : 0x100000ea
Parameter 1       : 0x86c5d6e8
Parameter 2       : 0x8725a9b8
Parameter 3       : 0xf7bfdcbc
Parameter 4       : 0x00000001
Caused By Driver  : nv4_mini.sys
Caused By Address : nv4_mini.sys+337ef
File Description  : NVIDIA Compatible Windows 2000 Miniport Driver, Version 56.73
Product Name      : NVIDIA Compatible Windows 2000 Miniport Driver, Version 56.73
Company           : NVIDIA Corporation
File Version      : 6.14.10.5673
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     : hal.dll+d62
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini112712-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 11/27/2012 2:25:02 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini030612-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/6/2012 6:37:48 PM
Bug Check String  : UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000007f
Parameter 1       : 0x0000000d
Parameter 2       : 0x00000000
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini030612-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 3/6/2012 6:38:54 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini030312-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/3/2012 6:29:03 PM
Bug Check String  : UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP
Bug Check Code    : 0x1000007f
Parameter 1       : 0x00000008
Parameter 2       : 0xf7aded70
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini030312-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 3/3/2012 6:30:21 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini051411-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 5/14/2011 9:33:51 AM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000000
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf68e04a2
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini051411-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 5/14/2011 9:34:41 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini051311-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 5/13/2011 5:33:28 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000008
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf685c505
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini051311-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 5/13/2011 5:34:12 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini051011-02.dmp
Crash Time        : 5/10/2011 6:30:52 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000000
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf6887505
Caused By Driver  : 櫿倀㫨΃逗￸꛾䖉逖￸䚋蔰࿀綄了Caused By Address : 櫿倀㫨΃逗￸꛾䖉逖￸䚋蔰࿀綄了File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+9aac
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini051011-02.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 5/10/2011 6:31:51 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini051011-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 5/10/2011 5:22:41 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000008
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf67ca4a2
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini051011-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 5/10/2011 5:23:27 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini050811-03.dmp
Crash Time        : 5/8/2011 6:44:41 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000000
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000001
Parameter 4       : 0xf68471c8
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini050811-03.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 5/8/2011 7:19:35 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini050811-02.dmp
Crash Time        : 5/8/2011 3:12:01 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000008
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf68af3e7
Caused By Driver  : ڿퟂڿڿڿڿڿ
Caused By Address : ڿퟂڿڿڿڿڿ+800f4
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     : ڿퟂڿڿڿڿڿ+9aac
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini050811-02.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 5/8/2011 3:48:31 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini050811-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 5/8/2011 2:47:41 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000000
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf68ef505
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini050811-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 5/8/2011 2:48:36 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini042011-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/20/2011 6:05:35 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000000
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf6867505
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini042011-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 4/20/2011 6:06:32 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini011710-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 1/17/2010 11:47:02 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : 0xfd31efaf
Parameter 2       : 0x00000000
Parameter 3       : 0xf6b1ff93
Parameter 4       : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+6067a
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 5.1.2600.6387 (xpsp_sp3_qfe.130503-0418)
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+6067a
Stack Address 1   : ntoskrnl.exe+52170
Stack Address 2   : ntoskrnl.exe+9944
Stack Address 3   : ks.sys+8f93
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini011710-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 1/17/2010 11:52:48 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini071909-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/19/2009 10:41:45 AM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000008
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf689d505
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini071909-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 7/19/2009 10:42:28 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini071209-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/12/2009 4:20:22 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000000
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf68a13e7
Caused By Driver  : cmuda.sys
Caused By Address : cmuda.sys+723e7
File Description  : C-Media Audio WDM Driver
Product Name      : C-Media Audio Driver (WDM)
Company           : C-Media Inc
File Version      : 5.12.01.0044.1 (39g)
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+9aac
Stack Address 1   : cmuda.sys+723e7
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini071209-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 7/12/2009 4:22:40 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini070209-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/2/2009 11:45:56 AM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0x00000008
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000000
Parameter 4       : 0xf6c1e4a2
Caused By Driver  :
Caused By Address :
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : 32-bit
Crash Address     :
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini070209-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 2600
Dump File Size    : 65,536
Dump File Time    : 7/2/2009 11:46:55 AM
==================================================

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]First of all, the frequency of the ERRORS indicates this is NOT a serious issue. Second, the lack of details for the most recent error makes it difficult to diagnose, but some of the previous ones point to your NVIDIA driver.

1) Please look in device manager. Are there any yellow or red symbols?

2) If you're using a desktop, go to the nvidia website, download the LATEST driver for your display adapter, and install it. If you are using a laptop, go to the website of your laptop manufacturer and if you don't have the latest driver for your display adapter, download it and install it.

3) Check for a BIOS update.How do I check in device manager? Also I'm sure the last blue screen crash was more recent, around April or some time...START- RUN - devmgmt.msc
Then press ENTERHow do I find these red or yellow symbols?Just open device manager. Do you see any yellow or red symbols?No, none...ok
Quote

2) If you're using a desktop, go to the nvidia website, download the latest driver for your display adapter, and install it. If you are using a laptop, go to the website of your laptop manufacturer and if you don't have the latest driver for your display adapter, download it and install it.

Hi,

I matched up a chip SET to a failed Toshiba drive.  Every number was the same on the CHIPS for the new chip set I bought, but when I attache it, I got no response from the HDD.  At least with the old chip set, I could extract some data using a data recovery program. 

Does anyone know what it is that I may have missed when buying a new chip set for the HDD?

Thanks,
StrotherDo you mean the Controller board ? ?Yes, the controller board.  How precise does one have to be when ordering a new one?They have to be from the same batch # given on the production line...you should search for a board using those parameters.See also Badcaps Forums http://www.badcaps.net/forum/Hi

You need to swap the firmware rom as well. Also if you were able to recover some data it is unlikely it is an electronic fault so swapping the logic board would not fix it. And on some drives will cause further damage.

If you give the model of drive I will look up where the firmware chip is.

Lisamaree Why do you state replacing the logic board will not work ? ? Sometimes i admit i am befuddled with your replies here...It is a Toshiba laptop drive 500GB. HDD2H28 UL01 T

There is also MK5055GSXN.

Thanks.

I was able to get quite a bit of data recovered from it with the original board.

Anyone here thought of going into the data recovery business and farming out the clean room part?Patio ,

I meant in this case if the drive, with the original logic board was allowing the drive to be accessed, it is very unlikely the drive has a logic board fault. Swapping Logic boards and not swapping the firmware rom could cause in some cases, further damage to the drive. The odds of a logic board swap on a drive over 40gb working are less than 5% so better to check for head damage, media faults and diagnose the logic board before swapping any PARTS like a logic board.

LisamareeHow does someone swap the firmware ROM?Hi

We have had 73 Toshiba 500 gb drives in for recovery with bad sectors. The most important thing is to access the drive, if possible without scanning with recovery software.
Copy off as much data as possible once you have done this then run recovery software or disk repair software.

To swap firmware roms you need a surface mount soldering rework station to remove the chip and resolder it onto the donor logic board. Important that you MARK which IC belongs with which board.

Lisamaree


[recovering disk space, attachment DELETED by admin] Quote

I was able to get quite a bit of data recovered from it with the original board.

Hi

We have had 73 Toshiba 500 gb drives in for recovery with bad sectors. The most important thing is to access the drive, if possible without scanning with recovery software.
Copy off as much data as possible once you have done this then run recovery software or disk repair software.

To swap firmware roms you need a surface mount soldering rework station to remove the chip and resolder it onto the donor logic board. Important that you mark which IC belongs with which board.

Lisamaree

Patio ,

I meant in this case if the drive, with the original logic board was allowing the drive to be accessed, it is very unlikely the drive has a logic board fault. Swapping Logic boards and not swapping the firmware rom could cause in some cases, further damage to the drive. The odds of a logic board swap on a drive over 40gb working are less than 5% so better to check for head damage, media faults and diagnose the logic board before swapping any parts like a logic board.

Lisamaree

I still don't quite get your logic on this issue...

Trying to recover Image done with Freeware Version of DMDE and repair the unallocated Clusters.

Do I first copy the Image to the newly mounted harddisk that replaced the damaged sata and then run the repair, or directly from external harddrive run a tool that then repairs the Image on the internal / external harddisk?

I tried running seatools for dos 2.23 to find what the exact harddisk error is, but it doesnt recognize the harddisk (only seatools for win recognizes the harddrive).If Seatools doesn't recognise it you are dealing most likely with a HDD that has passed it's useful lifespan.I agree, but if DMDE was ABLE to backup the drive then I must be able to recover them even if I use the free Version.

Lisa; any comments?If you say so...if the images are on that HDD you're outta luck.
Lisa may tell you different so wait for her.Hi

I have checked myself with a image made with the free version and  discussed your problem with DMDE and the free version will not recover from an image. I have checked opening the DMDE image with other data recovery programs and the only program that worked was a PURCHASED copy of Stella phoenix.    To get that faculty you need to buy the program.

Thank you very much for your time and efforts, much appreciated. The data is not extremely important, so I wouldnt want to pay for the Software since I am looking at this as a kind of an experiement. I would LIKE to try and sort this recovery of RAW Image file out with one of the many Freeware Tools available.

So the Freeware Edition of DMDE can be used to do an Image/copy of the Partition, but there is no way to use the data? That seems completely ridiculous. What will the DMDE recover from then?
Is there really no other Freeware /Opensource program than can recover BIN-files appart from stella phoenix? (for e.g. File Scavenger Data Recovery Utility, GetDataBack, MiniTool Partition WIZARD HOME Edition, MiniTool Power Data Recovery Free Edition, Pandora - or opensource like http://sourceware.org/gdb/onlinedocs/gdb/Dump_002fRestore-Files.html, etc.? - I have not tried any of these yet for recovery of BIN-file)

I am now just going to test Remo Recovery (http://www.remosoftware.com/how-to-recover-iso-image-file), otherwise I think the only Option I have left would be to try "Testdisk" on the fauly harddisk, but that would take another two weeks for it go through all the Clusters!

I would appreciate more help or comments, possibly one or two People have experience with above freeware Tools or with Binary Image file recovery?

Hello,
I am looking at one of my friends computers and he said it just stop working one day. It is a Dell Dimension E520. The only specs I can REALLY give you are that it is running windows vista home premium. When you press the power buttonon the front of the computer it makes a series of beeps. It goes BEEP BEEP....BEEP BEEP BEEP.......BEEP. Thats it. I can hear the fan running and i took off the cover and tried clearing the CMOS because i have done that in the past to reset motherboard and found that does the trick. I have tried to hit F2 to get to the BIOS but nothing even comes on the monitor EVER.  I checked monitor on my laptop and it works fine. Any suggestions guys? Did you try to re-seat RAM, video card (if any)?no, I will take out ram and put it in different slots, i think it has an integrated vide card on the motherboard. Thanks broni. Will get back on that after I try and seee what happens.Sure thing The RAM trick worked. It worked in the black slots but not either of the white slots they used to be in. Weird. YOU ARE AWESOME BRONI. Now to remove all the Malware. I'll hit up EVIL when I ge the time to go back over there. THANKS AGAIN!  Nice job  :)My beeping problem solved. I had trouble with my computer today. It is a Dell Inspiron 530 desktop. it is about 5 or more years old. It would started but would not boot up and just kept beeping like an alarm. I went on the net to find an answer but I don't KNOW much about the inside of a computer. I took the side panel off and the front panel where the USB ports are and the on and off button.  It was so full of dust you could not believe it. I vacuumed the front with a small portable vacuum to get the dust out, there was a lot of dust near the on and off SWITCH. I checked for loose WIRES and did not see any. I plugged the computer in another outlet that did not work. Then a miracle. I turned the computer on it's side. I used a small duster with a 2 inch long brush and kind of dusted over everything that I saw that need cleaning, like the fans and whatever. I was too afraid to touch anything or do the wrong thing. I then turned the computer right side up, turned it on and no more beeping. Now it connects to the internet faster too. The post is 4 years old...but glad it worked for you...
However in future i would discourage using any kind of vacuum in a PC as it generates enuff static electricity to fry valuable components...

Is this because of my Q8400...i searched the web & 60% of so called research says YES.. what do you guys think

Hi There,

I have a dimm screen right from boot, i can see everything but just very dimm.
Have tried the following:

- cold boot
- discharge power for 30 secodns without battery.
- replaced inverter to no avail.
- checked CONNECTIONS and cables.

Any suggestions what else i could try would be most appreciated.

Thanks

Are you sure it's the correct inverter and connected correctly?  Are there any ground connectors that may be loose or that you might have forgotten to TIGHTEN back up?  I've done that myself once or twice.  Also, does the laptop display properly when connected to an external display?  It's UNLIKELY to be the video chip or a setting, but it's worth trying this just to make sure.
If everything seems fine, you're left with two, make that three, possibilities - a second dead inverter, a bad cable, or a bad screen.Hi

if you want to check an inverter one of these is REALLY handy.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/non-contact-voltage-detector

If you run it around the screen before taking the laptop screen apart you can check the inverter is out puting at least something and if this is getting to the back lite. If the display is still dimm you have a faulty back lite.

Lisamaree
I am guessing you have already tried the Function Key with the Raise/Lower of brightness CONTROL? Such as my one computer has a FN key and then you press FN and the number 5 and 6 which has a brightness symbol on the keys to raise and lower the brightness of the backlight.Hi All, Many Thanks for taking the time to reply and try and help/

Yes it is the correct inverter, and i rechecked the cables and connectors. It only has 2 plugs, one at each end.

Weird thing was a long time ago i remember that happened then all of a sudden it worked and for a long time.

When i closed the lid and went away for 2 days came back opened the lid and dimm, yet connections all seemed ok.

I tried the FN key to no avail.

I don`t really want to replace the whole screen as costs a fair bit at £43

Good idea with Voltage pen , might try that.

Any other suggestions? Any other cables or contacts that i should check?

Many Thanks Again.

My DELL Dimension 2400 constantly goes off and the ORANGE light on front comes on solid. The diagnostic LIGHTS on back REMAIN all green. Any help WOULD be greatly apreciated.

It's portable, and lately it's become loose.

[crickets]

I have a WD My Passport - about four years old, I'd say - and lately it doesn't like spinning up with certain cables (that are A-OK with other devices). ONE cable, if I jiggle it a bit, it connects and spins up. Another cable, it's fine.

So I'm presuming somehow the connection inside the drive is a bit wonky (based on the joggling cable).

My question is, can I do anything about this? (Open it and reseat the connection, soak it in Barbicide, something?) or do I just suck it up and buy a new drive. (TRAVELING overseas, they ain't selling here at Amazon prices!)

ThanksA powered new enclosure would be my choice...the Passport enclosures aren't exactly known for their durability.First of all, I'm a big fat liar.

I don't have a WD My Passport - that's what was on SALE at the little electronics store in the lobby.

I have an iomega eGo, and it's done pretty well. This was over three years ago, after all.

Second of all, I think you mean pop out the insides and put them in a new case, one that requires its own power source. Don't have tools are materials to do the latter, and external power is a nonstarter (forgive the mixed metaphor!)

Nevertheless, are there specific brands you recommend (or specifically don't recommend)?

Some of my options at the place on the block:
- The WD Passport
- WD Elements SE
- Sony
- Toshiba Canvio
- Seagate Backup Plus

Thanks!
I don't like any of the above listed.
I buy my own enclosures and then select the HDD i want.
The best units out there will accomodate 3-4 different style HDD's...have external power sources...and have cooling fans.

That's what i use.Well, like I said, I'm living in a hotel room 8200 miles from home, so I need an off-the-rack option.

Additionally, I need a solution that runs solely off of USB as I don't always have access to external power.

So anyone else with recos?They connect via USB...the reason i buy enclosures that are powered by an A/C adapter is that on some PC's USB ports are underpowered therefore i do not trust them for important file or disk level activities...
Off the rack means what ? ? They are available anywhere.Hi

I recommend a WD Passport at the moment just get a USB3 500gb or 1TB look after it, like unplug it when moving the laptop.
Only have it plugged in when you need it. If you are listening to music or watching movies better to put it across to the laptops drive and use that instead  .
Keep the cable that comes with the drive as the cable for that drive.
The USB3.0 connectors on the hard drives are more rugged than the USB2.0 micro usb connections.


Lisamaree
  Hi Again

This isn't  the drive you did the coke spill on in 2010 is it?

If so it has done really well

Some drive enclosures made a couple of years ago were not so good. Now the pacific rim people have some decent ONES ate bargain prices and the ship international. I got one that looks good and works good.

Look around, they are available. Amazon has nice looking units fro about $20 to $40. Or try New Egg or even eBay.  Here is none of the cheap ones.

It is the same drive! (And it was DIET Coke).

Recognize my shopping options are very limited. Buying an enclosure/using a separate power source are NOT HAPPENING.

The options I have are the five above. Full stop.

Or repairing the one I have with the materials I have. (Perhaps if I had a budget *SPAM* to help...?)

(The main objective for having the drive is that I need to keep all personal items - music, movies, correspondence, bank records - OFF the corporate laptop's hard drive.)

Thanks!So I bought the My Passport - not happy with the 'special' connector, but oh, well.

I've tried two ways to move the old drive onto the new drive:
- Basic Drag and Drop
- Using Allways Sync n Go

Both times, everything copies OK, but the folder dates all show 'Created' dates of today, not the original creation dates. Every other backup program I've tried either does the same thing or saves the backup in some kind of 'container' file.... I'd really like to just clone the old drive contents on to the new.

Suggestions?

ThanksIf you copy the files, the original files stay where they are and new ones are made at the destination location, so 'created' dates of the time of the copy would be correct (since they were created just now.) Drag and dropping the files and using a utility would both be examples of copying. However if you cut the files instead of copying them, this is equivalent to a move operation as opposed to just a copy, meaning that the original files' creation dates will be kept, the files will be removed from the old hard drive, and will be transferred to the new one.

That being said, the creation dates do not matter, and the end goal for you will be identical either way, save for the fact that the old files will still be available if you choose to do a copy and not a cut. The files will be identical, so in my opinion if you're going to have the old drive sitting around anyway, you'd might as well just leave the old files on it just in case of the unlikely scenario that you need them for some reason.I won't have the old drive - it's on its deathbed.

The Create Dates do matter to me....

For future  reference.
You can use Robocopy
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_xp-files/how-to-preserve-timestamp-when-moving-folder-from/4aa65e7e-3eec-47df-a9d5-dff045de8c0f
Quote

When a folder is copied from one, a new folder is created at the new location and that is why the you get to see the new date. You can try to zipping the files and that option keeps the original dates or you may  use Robocopy.
Robocopy.exe: Robust File Copy Utility
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=17657

Hi there please help me out
    i have a PROBLEM with my HP Deskjet F2480 series PRINTER. The printer all the time complains of a CARTRIDGE problem when is begin powered on. The printer complains only the Black Cartridge. I have change the cartridge but when you put a new black cartridge(121) it will start COMPLAINING.    Have you contacted HP?

rather I need advice on buying a new printer.

I have a Acer running Windows 8, a Hp running Windows 7, a laptop running XP and a Samsung Galaxy Tab Note 10.1 running the latest android (I forget what it is)

My problem is this. I have a newwork and would like to run this printer/scanner on all my computers wirelessly.  The one I have, a lexmark does not support Windows 8. I called tech support at Lexmark and they said they will not be providing drivers for this computer. That means I do not want a Lexmark printer.

I want a wireless printer/scanner. I see there are the ones that use the ink cartrages and then there are Laser printers. What is best for the average home user?  What is the most expensive to buy ink or toner for?

This is very confusing for me being an old guy   73    Anyone have any advice for me?  Thanks in advance--RoyalIts hard to find a cheap and good printer that wont jab your wallet in ink prices. Not to solicit, but Staples has been good at taking in trade ins for when buying HP Printers. My one friend got $50 off of a new all in one which was price tagged for $200 so he got it at $150. Not sure if this was just the promo at the time or an ongoing thing, but in addition to this he had ink that was unopened for the old printer and Staples took the old ink back unopened and gave him credit towards his new ink for the new printer.

Pretty much anything that is inkjet is going to jab you on ink prices. I havent found any that are forgiving as for that is how they make the printers so affordably priced, they recuperate the COST of the printer by changing you on ink.

The better cost per PRINTED page is when working with lasetjets, but a laserjet with features you want may be way above your budget.

When buying a new printer verify that it says that it is Windows 8 compatible as for bargain prices MIGHT be for some left over models that are Windows 7 and prior OS.

When it comes to printers and printing at low cost, I really miss my Epson LQ-1050+ Dot Matrix because the ribbons were less than $10 each and could print through 5 cases of tractor-feed paper (thousands of pages) before having to be replaced. Sure it was loud and noisy, but it was cheap to print and I didnt need to have color. My wife doesnt miss it, mainly because of the noise it made, but I do.Overall I agree with the post above.
Here are some possibilities.
HP Officejet Pro 8600 Plus e-All-in-One
about $200 to$300
Epson WorkForce 845 All-in-One Printer
Under $100

I use a HP 6500  all in one. The ink is pricy. But it works good.

You might also look at brother printers, but I won't recommend that brand anymore. And I think you want to stick with the inkjet unless you need to do some professional work. Quote from: DaveLembke on August 06, 2013, 09:40:48 PM

Pretty much anything that is inkjet is going to jab you on ink prices. I havent found any that are forgiving as for that is how they make the printers so affordably priced, they recuperate the cost of the printer by changing you on ink.

The better cost per printed page is when working with lasetjets, but a laserjet with features you want may be way above your budget.

I'm currently picking parts to build my masterpiece. Overall I believe she'll cost me around 3800. The cpu and video card will be cooled using stock cooling(should the chipset be cooled as well?). I'll be using new egg as my main retailer. I'm trying to avoid any issues like bottle necking and I wanted to know if the power supply is adequate to supply the machine. I understand here on this forum you all must receive many posts like this one. However, due to my overwhelming ignorance, I'm not quite sure where else to put an inquiry like this one. Feel free to contact me over the forum or on SKYPE (bearherder1) with any advice you have to offer.
I greatly appreciate any help you can offer towards my project. Thank you for your time.

The parts I have chosen are as follows(they are all listed on new egg but I will provide links below):
Motherboard: ASUS P9X79-E WS
Gpu: VGA 04G-P4-2690-KR GeForce GTX 690
Gpu cooler: included oem
Cpu: Intel Core i7-3970X Extreme Edition Sandy Bridge-E 3.5GHz
Cpu cooler: Dynatron R24 60mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
Disk burner: Hp 447328-B21
Hard drive: HP 628061-B21 3TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5
Power Supply: XION AXP-1000K14XE 1000W ATX
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP

Links
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131971
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130781
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116877
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114134
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827140059
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822332283
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817190033
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160WOW  The has got yo be great.
As to your PSU question, did you look at the new-egg calculator?
Power Supply Calculator.
What's your budget for the PC, and what is its intended use?
My initial thoughts are firstly, DO NOT BUY THAT PSU, it is NOT a good unit by any stretch of the imagination, and 1000W is overkill (that unit won't supply 1000W reliably anyhow).
Secondly, for a high end build, don't go without an SSD.  The advantages over a HDD are truly epic.
Thirdly, you seem to have a bit of an odd choice of parts, hence why I'm asking your budget and the intended usage.  If you're going for a gaming PC, the X79 platform is not really the best way to go, and if you're going for a workstation system there are better choices.  The GTX 690 has been effectively replaced by the GTX 780 which offers lower power consumption, similar performance and no SLI related issues.  The DVD drive and HDD are massively overpriced as they're HP branded, and you're missing memory.

Post back with some more details, and we'll help you put together a great build Thanks for the feedback! I've done some more research and managed to come up with a more refined build. I'll address the questions first then list the build at the bottom. Just as before i'll provide links for each part.

Geek
The psu calculator was missing some options in terms of the graphics card selection (didn't have the 780) and the ram was capped at 6. Still it gave me a good idea of what bracket to shoot for. Thank you!

Calum
My budget is from 4k-5k. I'm focused on making a machine that can act as a single user gaming power house (something that can run crysis 3 on max settings). For the initial build I'm trying to stick to the basics (i.e. stock cooling, 1 graphics card, 1 or 2 hds, 1 dvd drive). As for the motherboard, what platform would you recommend for a gaming machine build?

P.S. I took your advice and threw on an ssd drive from samsung.

Build List:
Motherboard - ASUS P9X79-E WS
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116877

CPU: Intel Core i7-3970X Extreme Edition Sandy Bridge-E 3.5GHz(4.0GHz)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131971

CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

GPU + GPU Cooler: ASUS GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 GeForce GTX 780
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121779

RAM: CORSAIR XMS 64GB (8 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233308

DVD Burner: Asus Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

HDD: TOSHIBA PH3300U-1I72 3TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149396

SSD: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128B/WW 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0AT0UP5909

PSU: CORSAIR HX Series HX850
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139011

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP ATX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160That's a good improvement there, I don't have time to go through individual components and pricing right now but I will do so tomorrow.
Again though, here's my first thoughts - the X79 and 3970X is a STRONG combination, but it's massively overpriced for what it is.  I would advise instead to go with a 4770K and Z87 combination, as it'll perform better in gaming and not too much worse in highly threaded apps - the loss of 2 cores is partially made up for by the improved IPC (instructions per clock) the 4770K is faster clock-for-clock.
The Samsung 830 has been replaced by the 840, I would say if you have a good budget why not get a nice big SSD, maybe 480GB or 512GB?  The Samsung 840 Pro, Crucial M4/M500 and Plextor drives are all good.
The GTX 780 is a solid choice, offering very near Titan performance for a much more reasonable price.
Have you given consideration to your peripherals choice - keyboard, mouse, monitor, and possibly audio? Calum
I looked up a z87 motherboard  and a 4770k intel cpu. They seem like a bit of a downgrade from the x79(2 less processing cores, smaller cache) and the asus p9x79 (dual as opposed to QUAD channel). Links to the comparison sheets:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=-1&IsNodeId=1&Description=MSI%20Z87%20XPOWER&bop=And&CompareItemList=-1%7C13-131-971%5E13-131-971-TS%2C13-130-689%5E13-130-689-TS&percm=13-130-689%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=40000343%20600005576&IsNodeId=1&Description=intel%20sandy%20bridge&bop=And&CompareItemList=343%7C19-116-901%5E19-116-901-TS%2C19-116-877%5E19-116-877-TS&percm=19-116-877%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24


I think I'm set as far as my keyboard, and mouse. For now I plan on using my panasonic 50" plasma screen tv. It only has an hdmi input but from the looks of it so does the 780.Indeed, the 4770K is 4 core/8 thread vs the 3970X 6 core/12 thread, however it's 2 generations newer and hence in single core performance will beat the 3970X, and will be within a hair of it when using all the cores.  Quad channel vs dual channel RAM makes no real world performance difference unless all you do is run memory benchmarks all day
You could also consider the 3930K, which is only 300MHz slower than the 3970X but much better value for money.  The main difference is the 3970X has a totally unlocked multiplier rather than the 3930K's mostly unlocked, which is only useful for extreme overclocking.  If you went with the 3930K, which isn't as horrendously priced as the 3970X, and stuck with the Asus WS board, that'd still be a solid machine.

If you'll be using a plasma TV, then you'll be able to max pretty much any game out there, as even at full HD (1920x1080) the GTX 780 is massive overkill.  The main reason I asked was to see if you would be using a high res screen such as 2560x1440 or 2560x1600 (which is highly recommended but if you like having a 50" screen, there's no substitute really).

I'd go with the Crucial M4 512GB SSD here.
For some reason this card although identical except for the free game, is $10 cheaper, so you may as well go for that.
I would be inclined to swap the PSU for something like this - you only need around 550W, a 750 gives you the option of going SLI later on without needing a new PSU.  It's also 80+ platinum so it'll use marginally less power, it's built on a newer and better platform, and it's fully modular with nicer looking cables.  The newer version of the HX850 like the one you linked is a great unit too, but it's still edged by the AX series.  If you're not bothered about the slightly better efficiency and it being fully modular, have a look at this too as it's also a great unit and more cost effective.  The HX seems very overpriced for what it is, for some reason.You can save a lot of money on a decent bundle. Quote from: SuperTweaker on July 19, 2013, 07:31:17 AM

You can save a lot of money on a decent bundle.

Nowhere near the specifications the OP is looking for unfortunately, I'm assuming TD are trying to clear out old stock with that.

Yes, if money is at hand, for $4000 you can build a Game PC that you will never ever find in  any store. Here is an article fro the Guardian in UK.
How to build the perfect gaming PC for 2013 – and beyond

Already out of date, and doesn't go into any useful specifics on important components like the motherboard and PSU.

So what do you do about the PSU?

What do you really need in a PSU?

We already have PSUs that deliver over 1000 watts. In some parts of the world such power is not allowed in a personal entertainment or home use device.

Ok so I finished my new PC, one of the main new parts in the motherboard, a Biostar hifi a85s3.  my older gtx 550 ti, and an AMD APU.  I have everything running well on it (this is posted from said PC) except for I can't get the sound on.  I installed realtek HD audio manager (came on the disk with the mobo) and tried clearing the CMOS afterwards, but windows troubleshooting just says that nothing is plugged in.  I have tried the audio ports on the board, as well as the ones hooked up on the front of the case.  Other than that I have no idea what's causing this or what to do about it.I'd disconnect the front panel audio CABLE from location in attached pic and then see if the ports on the motherboard respond to headset attached to the rear of the computer. Some cases come with 2 plugs, one with a loop and the other without a loop. If you get your audio to respond when front panel audio cable is removed then, you know where the problem is, but if the problem remains then it could be a defective board.

With Windows 7, I ran into driver feature issues with Windows 7 on a Biostar MCP6PB M2+, but this board was manufactured for 2000/XP/Vista. My problems with audio are that sound works fine but I have no microphone as well as although the HD Audio Panel that use to display on the screen when a device was added to allow SELECTION for audio system or headset to be selected as the device that is plugged in no longer pops up when this motherboard is running on Windows 7. When it use to run on XP prior using the driver SOFTWARE off the CD that came with the motherboard everything worked including microphone. Biostar has no extended support for this board for Win 7 so I figured out which chipset I had for audio and manually installed a Windows 7 driver and this which should have fixed the microphone port, but it didnt.

I installed the Windows XP hard drive back into this system and the MIC works still so the port isnt bad. Left the hard drive in there in case I ever need to run Windows XP, however I am running Windows 7   99.9% of the time. To fix my MIC issue for gaming in which I need to be able to chat with other gamers in groups I went the easy route of buying a $10 USB Audio adapter which works very well and gives me the ability to chat through vent on this computer.

*Your motherboard should be Windows XP/Vista/7 and might be rated as supporting Win 8, but I didnt find any info on quick search.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin] Quote from: DaveLembke on August 07, 2013, 07:21:45 PM

I'd disconnect the front panel audio cable from location in attached pic and then see if the ports on the motherboard respond to headset attached to the rear of the computer. Some cases come with 2 plugs, one with a loop and the other without a loop. If you get your audio to respond when front panel audio cable is removed then, you know where the problem is, but if the problem remains then it could be a defective board.

I'm gonna' try and get a speaker that can plug directly into the mobo before I return it, just to make absolute sure