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I Just bought a Gigabyte GTX 650 Overclock version for my computer, but after installing it my computer doesn't display anything on the monitor. With out the Graphics Card the computer turns on fine with no problems, when it turns on it has a short beep then startsup. But with the Graphics card the computer turns on, the fans are on etc. but there is no beep and the monitor doesn't get any signal. There was no previous graphics card it was just the standard VGA graphics Adapter (in device manager).

I'm using Windows 7 32 bit
                4 GB of ram
                Intel Pentium D CPU 3.20 GHz
                Thermaltake 500watt PSU
I'm sorry if i haven't provided enough information, I'm not very tech savyHave you got the 6 pin power connector plugged into the graphics card?
Have you tried reseating the card, or a different SLOT if you have one, or tried the PC again with the card removed?
These issues are usually related to either something not being plugged in, or not quite making a connection.
Try the above, and let us know how you go, welcome to the forums I have the 6 pin power connector plugged into the graphics card, i tried the one given to me by Gigabyte and the one the PSU had provided but none worked. I can't try it in another slot because only have 1 that works with the Graphics Card, and the PC turns on completely NORMALLY with out the driver installed.
Do you have another PC you could try the card in by any chance?  If not, I would say it's LOOKING like either an incompatibility issue of some sort, or a DOA graphics card - trying it in another PC would rule out incompatibility, though that's fairly uncommon.Unfortunately I don't have any other computer, so will try to get a replacment. Do you have any other suggestions for Graphics Cards that I purchase if the replacement doesn't work? It may ALSO take atleast a week untill I can get the replacement.To be honest, whatever card you get will be heavily bottlenecked by your CPU, so you won't get the best out of anything you buy.
The GTX650 is a fairly cheap lower MIDRANGE card, which doesn't require much power, so either that or something like a Radeon HD7770 (a little faster for around the same price) would be your best bet really.

Okay so PLEASE bare with me as I know very LITTLE about sound CARDS, sound speakers and anything of the sort. I know what 5.1, 7.1, and 2.1 and that stuff is, but otherwise please explain to me as if you're explaining math to a 3rd grader! So i got a set of the Logitech X530's, they are 5.1 surround sound, and i love them! The only problem is that they don't play music out of all the speakers all the time. When i play music from iTunes, they play out of all the speakers, but when i play you tube, or anything else like games, or videos they only COME out of the 2 main front speakers. I have looked up every solution I know, to no avail. I have configured them, bought a new sound card(it supports 5.1) and i have gone into the advanced settings and set the speakers to 5.1 settings. I don't know if this will HELP but in my playback devices under my speakers and over to this tab called "Sound blaster" it has its own advanced setting and under that is where i set it to 5.1, but there's these 2 other things I am not too sure about called EAX effect(which i do not have enabled) and CMSS-3D (which is enabled). Would these have anything to do with it?? Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this and for helping me out guys! I appreciate it! Don't worry about EAX or CMSS.

Youtube videos play only in stereo - two speakers. You won't get the full surround-sound effect.

As for video games, there should be a setting to enable 5.1. They are probably on stereo by default.

This is a bit complicated. I have a slightly older motherboard, and it still has a PCI card slot. But I need a graphics card (I play WoW) and there aren't any GOOD PCI graphics cards. The only ones that I can find are PCIe. I have seen adapters that COULD resolve this issue, maybe, but I'm in no way a computer tech and I'm a little confused as to if and how that works.

It's a homebuilt computer that my brother did up for me. Currently, I have a riser in there, SINCE the case design requires it. So I guess my question is three-fold.

Is there a PCI to PCIe riser (as in a riser that plugs into a PCI slot, but allows me the use of PCIe cards)?

How well does a PCI to PCIe ADAPTER work with graphics cards?

Would it be better to just get a new motherboard with the right slots?A PCIe to PCI riser card doesn't really exist to do what you want.  I've seen PCI to PCI-E x1 adapters, however these REQUIRE modifying to work with graphics cards as they are typically PCI-E X16, and thus larger than an X1 slot.  I wouldn't recommend going down this route as additionally, the PCI interface will choke any semi modern graphics card due to its low bandwidth and outdated design.
The issue I see, is that it sounds like you have an oddball case if you need a riser card, so will a newer motherboard fit?  And, if your board is old enough to have no PCI-E slots, is the rest of your system up to spec to make a new graphics card worthwhile at all?

If you could give us a little more information about your computer, we can see what would be the best option for you.

Hello all,
I own an Acer Aspire M5-581t ultrabook laptop. Up until this point it has given me no issues whatsoever and has run incredibly fast. Last night I was playing Diablo 3 and as I went to exit it to head off to work, it crashed and it seemed my laptop had no idea how to handle it. After ctrl/alt/deleting and trying to solve it with the task manager, the task manager crashed as well and everything was basically frozen. In a HURRY to get to work I held the power button to force shut it down. Tonight, I went to start it back up and each attempt, my laptop stays on the "Acer" boot logo screen. After waiting about 8 mins, one of several things will happen - either it will direct me to the system information and setup configuration screen, a box will pop up stating there is no bootable device, or it will fall to a grayish blank screen. What could have happened to my laptop so suddenly?Next boot up hold down Shift and repeatedly tap F8 for safe mode...
Select Advanced Boot Menu and from there run the STARTUP Repair.
Do NOT interrupt it.Still no luck. Held Shift and tapped f8 for about 2 minutes straight and it just stayed at the boot logo. After a while of waiting the box popped up saying "no bootable device [Ok]" and when I hit enter it just went to the white screen.  Sounds like the Hard Drive is dead. If you know the make of the hard drive such as Seagate, DOWNLOAD seatools and run a HDD test on it.I think this model laptop has an SSD.Will try that. Under further research I'm thinking either the harddrive got corrupted or something when everything crashed and I forced it to shut down or corrupted a boot file. When I try to boot it the harddrive and motherboard are making healthy sounds so at least that's intact and the fan isn't doing anything erratic. QUITE sure that it has an SSD as well, would it be possible to run a similar test, and if so, how?http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2416723,00.asp?tab=Specs

Looks like Drive may be a hybrid 520GB 5400 RPM + SSD to me sounds like a hybrid.Was this unit dropped ? ?
Be honest....If its windows 7 you could try using a repair disk.  I would check the BIOS an see if its seeing the drive just to make sure.  Haha no, I have treated this laptop with lots of care and never once dropped it. And it came with Windows 8.Patio, will help you out cant say I know enough about 8.  It should of asked you to make backup disks but, outside of that.  I would ether look on youtube or google Quote from: DaveLembke on May 23, 2013, 05:10:29 PM

http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2416723,00.asp?tab=Specs

Looks like Drive may be a hybrid 520GB 5400 RPM + SSD to me sounds like a hybrid.

About three years ago I purchased a Dell XPS 8100 computer with a 1000 gigabyte hard drive, Windows 7 Home Premium with an Intel Core i7 CPU.  Until recently, this computer has PERFORMED wonderfully and I've always had approximately 850 gigabytes of free space.

 A month ago, in one day, the free space decreased by about 90 gigabytes.  Yesterday, in approximately 12 hours, it decreased by another 110 gigabytes.  I've not downloaded anything out of the ordinary during this time, as I mainly use this computer for emailing and surfing.  The Dell site checks indicate all hardware is okay (although at one point it said "Unexpected Error Occurred"), and checks by Microsoft Security Essentials, Malwarebytes, SpywareBlaster and Spybot indicates all is well.

I will definitely appreciate suggestions.Hard to say. This sort of thing has been reported by others.
Here is a search on the CH archives.
loss of free space

Sorry I can not give even a good guess. May I suggest you look at your backup plan.You may have to do some kind of recovery that might damage some files.
Give Windirstat a try, to SEE where the space is being used.  It's not perfect but may help point you in the right direction.
Have you installed any software or made any changes to the computer recently?


Quote

Sorry I can not give even a good guess.  You may have to do some kind of recovery that might damage some files.

Hi guys i need help i just want to KNOW how to back my pictures or images viewer to "Windows Picture and Fax Viewer"

before when i open my picture in my computer i VIEW my picture using
Windows Picture and Fax Viewer
like this:


but now when i double click my picture or when i open the pictures in my computer i view the picture using
Microsoft Office Picture Manager
like this:


i want to view all my pictures using Windows Picture and Fax Viewer
but now when i open my picture i view my picture in Microsoft Office Picture Manager.
i just want to know how to view my pictures back to Windows Picture and Fax Viewer i mean when i double click my picture or when i try to open all my pictures in my computer i want to view all my pictures in Windows Picture and Fax Viewer i mean when i open my pictures i don't need to right click and choose open with.

i just want to know how to back the settings in my images viewer in my computer using Windows Picture and Fax Viewer i mean when i double click the picture or when i try to open my pictures
"Windows Picture and Fax Viewer" automatic open to view my pictures.


if anyone know how to do this guys please help me because i like to view always all my pictures in my computer using this: Windows Picture and Fax Viewer

thanks
Right click a picture, choose "Open With", then "Choose Program".  Click to select the program you want to use, in this case Windows Picture and Fax Viewer, and make sure the box to "Always use the selected program" is checked, then click OK.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307859thanks for reply guys i solve my problem now

i follow this step by step

Quote

Find a .jpg FILE to open and right-click on it. Then click on "Open With" and then "Choose Program".

Select Windows Picture and Fax Viewer and check the box "Always use the selected program to open this KIND of file".

If you have other image file types like .png or .tif that you use go through the same procedure with them.

Greetings CH!

last night i was using my PC and noticed something a bit different. My Machine currently Dual Boots windows XP/7 both 64bit. I walked away from my computer while using XP and it went to sleep after returning an hour later I went to wake it up. The Computer came to life but the screen was blank. It didn't display anything. So i rebooted it and it Posted. The second time same thing! The third time that night it woke up from sleep but took a bit longer than usual. I never seemed to have this issue with either OS. I didnt try the 7 ULTIMATE partition yet. I read someplace that this can indicate a hard disk drive FAILURE about to happen, is that so? or has my Windows Xp 64bit partition somehow become corrupt? Any way i can test my drive? Its a 1TB WESTERN Digital 7200RPM that has 4 partitions. Below are my system specs:

AMD Fx 8120 3.1Ghz 8 Core CPU (on XP partition 6 cores are shut off)
Asus M5A97 motherboard
8Gb DDR3 RAM (2x 4GB)
1 TB Western Digital hard drive 7200RPM (i think its a black model not 100 percent SURE yet)
MSI Hawk R6870 1GB GDDR5 Graphics card
750 Watt Coolmaster (i think) PSU

Let me know thanks. DLoad and run the Data LifeGuard tool from WD...run the long test.

Hi guys i need help how to get a bluetooth in my computer?

yesterday when i was in the MALL i try to print some of the photos in my cellphone
then the OWNER of the computer shop said send my photos via bluetooth i mean the owner of the shop not use
card reader to transfer the photos in my cellphone to the computer i send only the photos in my cellphone via bluetooth.

First my system:
Microsoft Windows XP
Professional
Version 2002
Service Pack 3

Here some of my question guys
1. how to know if my computer have a bluetooth?
where i need to go to CHECK if my computer have bluetooth
2. if my computer have bluetooth what i need to do to work the bluetooth in my computer
3. if my computer don't have a bluetooth i just want to know if any free software in the internet
can i download and install to my computer to get a free bluetooth in my computer
i mean what i need to download and install to get a bluetooth in my computer for free

if anyone know how to get bluetooth in my computer please help me how to have a bluetooth in my computer
i just want to transfer all the photos and videos mp3 movies and others files in my cellphone and send it to my computer via bluetooth without using a card reader.

thanksUsing a card reader, or even just a USB cable from your phone to the computer, would be MUCH easier and quicker than using Bluetooth.  If you don't currently have Bluetooth, you can buy a Bluetooth USB dongle very CHEAPLY, this will come with software to make it work and then you'll have to send each file individually from your phone to the computer.

We have one of these printers hooked up an shared on our network.  Im trying to GET windows 8 machines, which, need to be derfaulted tp print to that printer HP Color Laserjet CP1215.  however, there is no DRIVER for it an thought that a windows 7 driver would WORK but, it don't SEEM LIKE I can see that printer an wanted to see if anyone else has done this.  Work grouped Windows 8 Pro 64 bit Have you tried the Win7 64Bit driver ? ?

Ok this started a while ago...my MODEM took hardly few seconds to connect.
my dad kind of gave a little push to modem..while we had a fight..NOTING major just a minor smash
from that day modem took 1 min to start...the duration increased day by day as im counting...this morning it was 1 hour 13 mins & right now it took 1 hour 47 mins for the modem to start
the "power" indication light first lights up very dim & then it brightens as minutes passes by...this helps me estimate when the modem is going to connect
after the power light is at brightest i realize  the modem is going to connect

plz help me what should i do, is it hardware fault ...can it be repaired...this problem is more frustating than slow internetFirst TRY a NEW power supply for the modem. It SEEMS the damage mat have been to the power supply. But that is only a guess.Nah mahn ..the adaptor or the power supply as you may prefer to call it..is far away from the modem...the modem is being kept on the cpu while its power supply is kept on desk
no damage had been done to power supply

my computer restart automatically,please tell me what is problem.i check every thing,just need a help.Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to RUN the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyAlso to note that if your system is set up for automatic updates, and it was not turned on on Tuesday to TAKE the weeky updates, it may have performed updates on its own and rebooted.

Symptoms of this would be a warning that system is going to reboot in 10 minutes ETC, you can postpone or if your not there to answer the system will reboot on its own even if you have something important running.

HOWEVER if you were in the middle of something and it just reboots, the tool that allan suggested may show helpful info, however if you have a QUICK power dip that caused the reboot sometimes your system will reboot without any bsod info.

in the past week or so i've been having audio cut outs randomly, I'll be watching somethign and the audio just cuts out for about 5-10 seconds then COMES back, but the video keeps going or the game etc.

what should I be checking ito to troubleshoot this ISSUE? ALREADY went through the BASIC steps but i just can't figure it out

Setup

windows 7 64x os
using a ASUS Xonar DGX audio card with a steelseries siberia V2s HEADSET (analog, not USB)
If you are playing audio through a ound system, eliminate sound system plu using a headset instead.. if problem goes away then sound system external to the computer has issues, most common being a wire with an interlittent break.

If the problem remains then its computer related and the next test I would suggest is a memory test such as memtest86.

hey guys im just new here, randomly i just wanna ask if you can recommend me some Headphones? Speakers? or any to enhance my audio system through speakers or even good headsets for my gaming.

I used to have sennheiser ever since but i think it will break down soon, so I am needing any recommendation from you what is good to get fro good audio definite quality.

anyways I am playing BATTLEFIELD and Devil May Cry. What sort of budget are we talking about?  Do you need a headset, or just headphones?  If you got speakers, WOULD you want a 2.0 setup, 2.1, or surround sound?my budget will be 250$ I actually only need headphones so far i dont have enough money yet if im gonna set up with good speakers, that would be my next target but not now.

any recommendation? does actually this smart ear 3D headphones exists?Not sure what smart ear 3D headphones are - is that a fancy term for surround sound?  If so, you can get headphones which offer "simulated" 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound, I don't know how good they are PERSONALLY.  I myself use a set of JVC HA-RX700 headphones.  They're aimed more towards music, but I find they're fantastic for gaming and music, although quite heavy.  They're not very expensive at all, so probably not an ideal recommendation, but more to give you an idea.
Do you have a good sound card already?  If not, you'll need one really to get the best out of good headphones.

The title is from:
http://www.patientecare.com/ser_port_doc/WinPorts.html
It is a well WRITTEN article about Serial (RS-232) CCOM port assignments in Windows. Attention is given to the use of USB adapters to provide addition COM ports. Here is just part of the introduction:
Quote

Windows serial ports are numbered upwards STARTING from ONE, such as COM1, COM2, etc. Many of today's modern computers have only one RS232 serial port, or even none. If you do not have a serial port available, you must use a USB->Serial converter. These USB devices plug into an available USB port on your computer and provide one or more RS-232 serial ports for older device

I made a custome build unit so that I can run a remote app.  However, when I go to ether install windows 2000 or Windows XP it freezes when it gives you the chance to do the installationI will assist further only if more useful information is provided so that I dont have to request info 5 times to come to the conclusion of what you are trying to achieve.

Please state if this computer was healthy prior to attempting Windows 2000 or XP install and what the exact hardware specs are of the build?

Computer Make/Model ... example ( HP Vectra VL233 )
CPU ( specifics ) example Pentium II 233Mhz
RAM ( amount ) example 64MB
Hard Drive ( size ) example 4.3GB

Also what is the remote app you are wanting to run using this unit?
Also have you run Memtest86 on this system so you know the memory is healthy?
Also have you run a hard drive test on this system to know if the hard drive is healthy?
Have you verified that the CPU is not overheating causing it to lock up during install? (CPU has a heatsink attached and Fan's spinning, heatsinks not clogged with dust/hair etc, and thermal compound is not dried up)

----------------------------------------------------------

* My thoughts are that this computer either has a hardware failure or is inadequately spec'd to install and run either OS Quote from: DaveLembke on June 15, 2013, 05:35:42 PM

I will assist further only if more useful information is provided so that I dont have to request info 5 times to come to the conclusion of what you are trying to achieve.

If it won't boot to a CD what bootable CD are you using ? ?
Is it set as 1st boot priority ? ?
If that fails swap another optical drive in there to test...

P.S.  If it were me i'd uninstall the RAID card for further diagnostics...

that it maybe the disk drive?  It probably is i got it at a yard sale an the only one I got now though unless I clean the laser ?

I was RECENTLY building a pc and I hooked up everything and it didn't turn on. I pushed on the p1 CORD and it powered up but i have to hold it down for it to turn on, can anyone please help me solve this PROBLEM?
By "P1 Cord" are you referring to the CABLE that plugs into the back of the PC that connects it to the wall, or something different?The p1 cord is the main power cord CONNECTING to the motherboard and the power supply

Hello everyone. I recently built a fairly high end PC and the components used were purchased through Newegg.com.

Here is the system specs:

Case - COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN3-GP Black STEEL + Plastic and Mesh Bezel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0
Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-Z77MX-D3H LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Processor - Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics
RAM - Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX
PSU - COOLER MASTER eXtreme Power Plus RS700-PCAAE3-US 700W ATX 12V v2.3 Active PFC Power Supply
SSD -  Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive
HDD - Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
Video Card - GIGABYTE GV-N66TOC-3GD GeForce GTX 660 Ti 3GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Only one problem. It won't boot.
After ruling out the PSU, (used one from a different computer that runs fine and it still wouldn't boot the system) I took the MB out of the case,
set it on the electrostatic bag it came in, only hooked up the PSU, CPU fan, and power switch connector. Still nothing..
The CPU fan spins for 2 seconds and stops. I've ruled out all possibilities of a short. Inspected the pins in the CPU socket, reseated the CPU, and I've run out of options other than blaming the CPU. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks..
If it didn't start with the bench test method it's either the CPU or the MBoard...Try pushing down on the p1 cord connected to the motherboard from the power supply. This is whats wrong with my pc but I can't fix ityou could try the cpu in a diffrent Mobo or a diffrent cpu in your mobo to rule out one or the other

I decided this time around to just purchase a retail pc instead of upgrading my old hand built pc. Not the best idea but it's served its purpose so FAR. I was just wondering if I could upgrade my graphics card on this machine or not.

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&docname=c03154290#N1272

I know the psu is a bit on the low side but there must be something out there better than my hd 7450.
It's also a pretty small case so that'll probably come into play as well.

Thanks for taking the time to read this You're going to be quite limited in what you can upgrade to, not only because the PSU is only 300W and your CPU is quite POWER hungry, but because it lacks any PCI-E power connectors.  The card you have is basically a rebranded 6450, which as you are aware isn't great for gaming.  I'd be hesitant to recommend a new card, because your 7450 has a TDP of 18W, any card that will give you a measurable increase in performance is ~70W or more, which is a fair difference.Well I could tear out my 600 watt psu from my old pc and use that. Would that help out things?It sure would, if that PSU is a good one.  What make and model is it?corsair gs600 It's pretty new so it should be fine. Oh I didn't notice that it was missing a pci-e power cord I suppose that does limit my options for anything too powerful. Anything will probably be better than my 7450 though.
The GS600 would be fine then.  There's really no sensible upgrade option with the standard PSU, you're limited to things like the 6670 and some low power versions of the GTS 650 if I remember rightly, which are overpriced for their performance.
I'd recommend the HD7770 as a decent mid/lower end upgrade, the 7790 if you want to spend a little more.  The 7850 or 7870 are still decent choices too.  On the Nvidia side, consider the GTX 660Ti, GTX 660, and GTX650Ti Boost.Well now the issue becomes what card can fit in my case. I have roughly 6 3/4 to 7" of space for the card. All the 7790s I've looked out have been too long to properly fit. I have however found a 7770 that will fit but would it be enough of an upgrade to warrant the 150 dollar purchase?
It's pretty much the best you can do if you're limited size-wise.  The 7770 is a capable card as long as you're not expecting the earth.Alright one last question and I should be good. I've found 3 cards that are short enough to fit in my case.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814103233 - Diamond
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131477 - PowerCooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150666 - XFX

I haven't used Diamond or Powercooler before but which brand would you recommend?
The XFX appears to have the wrong description for some reason, but the part number and price seem right.  Probably just a typo, someone copying and pasting the wrong description.

The XFX has a lifetime warranty, the Diamond has a 5 year (wow, when did they change that?) and the Powercolor a 2 year.
I've not had to RMA anything to any of those brands, and haven't owned a card by them.  When I was building day in/day out, we used a lot of XFX cards, had a few problems but nothing major.  We didn't use Diamond at all, they're not big over here, and we only used a few Powercolor because again they're not that common and if I remember correctly they're part of another company whose cards we may have used instead.

I would say it's pretty much a wash, if the lifetime warranty appeals grab the XFX, the Powercolor is cheapest and if the MIR works out it'll only be $80 which is pretty good.  The cooler on the Diamond LOOKS a bit DODGY, but to be fair they're all non reference and won't cool as well as a standard card so again probably a wash.I'll probably end up going with the XFX one because of the warranty.

Thanks for all the helpThat would probably be my gut feeling too.  You're welcome!

Are these RAM modules compatible with my computer?
The ram modules in question are here on ebay.
I am using an HP Compaq dc5100 Small FORM Factor PC RUNNING Windows 7
The MANUFACTURER's manuals for my computer can be found here.
Go to crucial and let it scan your PC, it will tell you exactly the right memory.

http://www.crucial.com/uk/index.aspx?gclid=CMjZ26nCjrgCFQTItAodIHoAJQ&cpe=pd_google_uk&ef_id=UdAGvgAABToTYoSx:20130701143552:sI fixed your LINKS for you.
That memory should be compatible, it is the correct standard, speed and type.

PC wont boot/blue screen
Hello considering that you helped me with my last issue guess i should try here with my problems again xD.
So what HAPPENED was while i was rendering some images i had a POWER OUTAGE and when i started the pc again it all went smooth UNTILL i started the render again and than it crashed to blue screen. Ok i tried something else playing a 3d game or something like that and again the PC freezes first and than crashes to blue screen.
Than the booting problems started it wont even get to the welcome screen, sometimes it just stops at the first screen where you can chose to enter bios etc. I took the PC to the handler where i bought it but he says he tested all the components and they are all working but cannot find what the problem is.
I looked around on the internet and tried switching the ram  or taking one out and what not and none of it helped.
Last time i tried to reinstall windows i got to the part where you choose from your hard drive where you want to install it but the problem is there was nothing to choose from just a BLANK box. I do not have the pC with me but it should be something like this
Procesor:   AMD Athlon II X4 640 Radeon
HDD:   1TB SATAII HDD
i am not sure about the other parts but the pc was WBS PROX4 640/NF4/4GB/5670/1TB it was a complete model he just added another 4 gb of ram and thats it.
OS was windows 7 ultimate.Post the entire BSOD including the gibberish...
1st suspect would be the vid card/or drivers...

I have a Gigabyte series 5 desktop w/4 GB memory, 500GB HDD that is completely clean, Dban, etc. BIOS is set to run USB KB, BIOS reset, battery removed and
replaced. The problem I'm having is that when I try to boot to from a legal CD, the "boot from CD" option doesn't do anything. The no boot info box comes up
and I have to reboot with the same result. I've tried different usb ports, regular and USB keyboards and nothing seems to allow me to boot from the DVD.
It seems that the KB just doesn't work when Boot from CD/DVD: option comes up.
Of course I can't run any scanners, etc until an operating system is installed. I don't know if this is caused by malware, damage from malware, or a computer
problem.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.You will need to set your BIOS so that the CDROM is the first boot drive.Hi Dave. I've done that.
The problem is that the Boot option,"CD/DVD: doesn't respond to any input, keyboard (reg or USB).

Thanks for the prompt reply.
I'm going to move this thread to the Hardware forum. I'm sure someone there will help you. If this keyboard is a USB Keyboard, it might not be mounted yet for the motherboard to see keystrokes. Have you tried a PS2 keyboard instead?  Using PS2 keyboard you should have immediate access to getting into the bios as well as chosing the F key command for boot selection if this motherboard has one such as F9 etc. Different motherboard bios's use different keys, but on my one system its F9

If the keyboard works fine and the optical drive is not BOOTING. Move the SATA cable on the DVD ROM to SATA 0 or SATA 1 so it is recognized by system as a bootable device attached to this port. Seen before where a DVD ROM at say SATA 4 WONT boot a bootable disc.

If the cable is already attached to SATA 0 or SATA 1, then I'd try a different SATA Cable and see if it begins to work. You can swap SATA cables between the HDD and the DVD ROM first to see if it fixes the issue, but be sure the Hard Drive to boot from is on SATA 0 or SATA 1 as well as the DVD ROM is in the other of the SATA 0 or SATA 1, with non-bootable drives using SATA 2, 3,4...

If it still doesnt work, then I'd try a different optical drive if a spare is available or exchange it for a new drive as for it may be defective.When you set it to boot from CD 1st are you pressing F10 to "save changes and exit" ? ?Yes, but keep thinking.

I've even set all devices to boot from CD. Its normal now with CD as first boot device.
What happens is that we get all the way to: Verifing pool data, then a line comes up with "Boot from CD/DVD:" then nothing works, PS2 KB, USB KB,
and then a dialogue box says: Boot MGR Missing, PRESS Cont, ALT, Delete to restart, and around we go. All KB work on other computers and on the
splash screen here.

This a 3yr old Gigabyte 5 series that was originally set up as a gaming machine. The CDs are IDE, although I tried SATA drives earlier, the HDD is a SATA drive.

This computer quit a year ago with malware. I was busy and replaced this MB with a 77 and i7.  I have time now, and I'd like to repair this one.

I think the keyboard is somehow being disabled when given the option to Boot from CD. Just a theory.Is your "legal CD" a DVD?
Is your drive a CD drive & not a DVD drive?It's a legal MS disk. I don't even get that far!
I have a bunch of CD and DVD drives and tried every combination I can think of, IDE,and SATA.
We've been assembling computers since the early 80s and I never seem to throw anything away.
MY biggest trouble is age. I've got CRS!

The first computer was a1979 Pixie, machine language and 1k memory, they're more complicated now.  I still have the Mag if anyone wants to see it.
Parts no longer available tho.Please confirm your optical drive is a CD/DVD drive and not just a CD drive.
It's a Phillips DVD player. Although this MB was designed to boot from an IDE device, after putting a SATA DVD drive and changing ALL devices in bios to boot, the
Boot from CD/DVD: option brought up three boot options,  and allowed it to boot. I upgraded the bios and all is well.

Thanks for all your help and for making me begin to think again.

I use this computer for ham radio and need a USB-serial controller, (software, not an adapter) if anyone knows where to find one, Gigabyte doesn't have it anymore.Good NEWS...glad your sorted...

I don't know whats's going on with my laptop because every time I plug any flash drive into it, the flash drive turns into a shortcut. It's an annoying THING to me. Please help get RID of that shortcut and get my laptop run just right.Just in case all your flash drives are infected you could run this to clean them.

Download Panda USB and AutoRun Vaccine and save it to your desktop.

* Extract (unzip) the file to your desktop and a folder named USBVaccine will be created.
* Open that folder and double-click on USBVaccine.exe to start the program.
* Click Run
* Click the button to VACCINATE computer.
* Insert your USB flash drive.
* When the name of the drive appears in the dialog box, click the button to Vaccinate USB drive(s).
* Exit Panda USB and AutoRun Vaccine when done.

Note: Computer AutoRun Vaccination will prevent any AutoRun file from running, regardless of whether the REMOVABLE device is infected or not. USB Vaccination disables the autorun file so it cannot be read, modified or replaced by malicious code. The Panda Resarch Blog advises that once USB drives have been vaccinated, they cannot be reversed except with a format. If you do this, be sure to BACK up your data files first or they will be lost during the formatting process.

Thinking of changing my motherboard as the computer is not working and the consensus of opinion is a motherboard problem. As it stopped working suddenly i hadn't backed up my stuff on the hard drive  . Can i change the motherboard and get it started without a clean windows install?

what do i need to know about changing the motherboard - not done this before! thanks for any HELP. If you can find the exact same motherboard and migrate your CPU to it or stay with the same family of CPU it will work like it did before with the worst of it possibly being that you need to reactivate with microsoft the windows os. ( This is assuming that the CPU is fine from the old troubled board and not the cause of the motherboard malfunction to begin with )

If you change from say an Intel to a AMD CPU or any drastic differences between the old motherboard and NEW motherboard you can try to boot and see if it will work. It will either work without a reactivation required, or work, but require windows to be reactivated, or blue screen when it goes to load windows and get stuck in a blue screen boot loop.

If you get the BSOD boot loop you can boot off of the windows CD or DVD and perform a repair installation. This will fix windows to work with the new hardware and your personal data and programs would remain so a clean install should not be required, unless the system was already cluttered or had been infected before and really should have a clean install anyways.

What are the specs of the old board and what are the specs of what you plan to install into it?Depending on the Windows version normally a Repair Install can be done after a MBoard swap without losing any data...
More Details...Nowadays it should work pretty good without too much hazzle, but no matter what you change, better get a good backup of your data!

If you stay with the same brand and socket it should be LOWEST risk at all.I've found Windows 7 tends to behave pretty well even when swapping socket or other major hardware changes, with the exception that reactivation can being required as already mentioned.  The only thing to watch out for is if your Windows was installed with the SATA controller in IDE mode, and the new motherboard is in AHCI by default, you will get a blue screen on startup, so you would just need to change the SATA controller to IDE mode.  Other than that, it should be fairly hassle free!  As stated too though, even though it's usually fine, the same or a similar board still has less chance of something going wrong.I've been able to do this on every Win OS since Win2K...
The instruction set is a bit different for each one...
Which do you have ? ?Indeed, I'm just saying Windows 7 particularly seems to be more tolerant of hardware changes, to the point I've stuck the HDD in a totally different PC - AMD to Intel, AMD to Nvidia graphics, etc, and it didn't skip a beat, just asked for a reboot after starting up.
With Windows 2000 and XP, I USED to uninstall the storage controller drivers before shutting down to remove the hard drive and swap it - it would then boot up with a generic IDE driver and behave a little better, sure cut down on some issues for me anyway.its on windows 7 and i was thinking of using an identical motherboard so sounds hopeful! So basically i just swap them over - plug everything back in and it should work more or less - sounds good! i have disconnected the old motherboard so its ready to come out but not sure how to get the processor off to move it onto the new board - any tips? thanks Quote from: frannieannie on June 30, 2013, 03:14:15 PM

not sure how to get the processor off to move it onto the new board - any tips? thanks

I have dell inspiron N5010 with windows 7. I want to connect Sony LCD projector to my laptop. But when i connect cable of projector to laptop, It does not get any signal from laptop. projector is working properly with other laptops.  I have button on my laptop for selecting the display mode but it is not working. I have connected laptop earlier when i was having Win XP. I think this problem is because some drivers are missing, but i DONT know which are those drivers. Please help.Have you tried a normal monitor on the laptop's output port, to SEE if you get a display from that?i tried that after your suggestion. Normal monitor is also not getting any signal from laptop. OK, so at least we know it's something with the laptop, not the projector or cable - unless you USED the same cable for both?
Go to the start menu, right click Computer, click Manage, then go to Device Manager.  Do you have any devices with yellow exclamation or question marks next to them?  It's possible that the graphics drivers aren't installed.  If you do, right click on them go to properties, go to the DETAILS tab, change the dropdown to Hardware IDs, and post the first line here so we can identify the device and direct you to the appropriate driver.I have yellow mark next to bluetooth periferal device. Hardware ID for that is

BTHENUM\{00001132-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb}_LOCALMFG&000f

but i think it does not have anything to do with display. So Below are hardware IDs for display adapter and monitor. Hope these might give any idea to you.

1. Display adapter
PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0046&SUBSYS_04471028&REV_18
PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0046&SUBSYS_04471028
PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0046&CC_030000
PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0046&CC_0300

2. Monitors
Monitor\LGD0266
Alright, that is helpful, because at least it SHOWS your graphics drivers are installed.  It could be worth updating or reinstalling them from the Intel website.
If you right click on the desktop, and go to screen resolution, is the second display shown there, or not?There is only one screen in screen resolution. Dropdown menu shows only Generic PnP monitor on standard VGA graphics adapter.OK, sounds like your graphics drivers aren't properly installed after all.
See here for the driver download page, install that and it should help i have installed the drivers suggested by you. But it is still showing only one screen in screen resolution.

I currently have Panasonic SC-BT235 Blu-ray Disc 1000W Home Theater Sound SYSTEM and I'm looking to upgrade it to a true home theater system. I'm not looking for something that plays blu-rays, but rather something with good sound within a reasonable budget.

A/V RECIEVER:
I want a to create at least a 5.2 channel surround sound system. I was looking at a/v receivers and I was thinking about either the Onkyo TX-NR515 7.2-Channel ($328.00) or the apparently newer version of the 515, the Onkyo TX-NR525 5.2-Channel ($399.99). Is the 525 worth the upgrade over the 515? Or PERHAPS maybe even consider the Onkyo TX-NR616 7.2-Channel (359.99) instead?

As far as speaker placement, I was thinking about the standard setup as you see below:


Right and Left Front Channel Floor-standing Speakers:
I was thinking about 2x Polk Audio Monitor 55T Two-Way Ported Floorstanding Speakers ($147.00).

Subwoofer
Polk Audio PSW121 12" Powered Subwoofer ($199.99).

Center Speaker:
Polk Audio TL1 Speaker Center Channel   ($63.49)

Right and Left Rear Channel Speakers:
Aperion Zona Wireless Surround Speaker System ($389.00). The reason I need these rear channel speakers to be wireless is because I LIVE in an apt and I am not allowed to staple the wiring around my wall to keep it neat. And since I have a pet, simply running the wires across the ground is not a option for me either, not to mention it doesn't look great. I think I found a good solution for my problem with the Aperion Wireless Surround Speakers, but the price is what's bothering me. I can't seem to find any cheaper alternatives.

I have voltage regulator and great surge protector, so I'm not worried about protecting the setup. But let me know what are your thoughts about my possible setup? And recommendations and potential changes are welcomed!


Looks like a nice setup to be.

Only problems I have heard of with setups like this are when they are placed into rooms with wooden paneling vs sheet rock. Neighbor of mine bought an insane home theater setup and soon found himself having to rip the paneling out to replace with sheet rock. The problem was the sound vibrating off the wooden paneling walls was making for noise and uneven bounce of the soundwaves. Movies like Top Gun with the sound set to like 6 of 10 or certain frequencies would MAKE the wooden paneling resonate and make for annoyance of noise. So sheet rock walls were the fix.

If you dont have wooden paneling walls like he had, then you should be all set.

Hi I have a Higrade Notino UL100. It was working ok a few days ago. I tried to switch it on today and its dead, no noise and nothing on the screen, but the green power lights are on. Does anyone know what the problem might be and if so is it fixable. Thanks Sometimes a dead battery will stop a laptop from booting.
Unplug it from the electric mains, remove the battery.
Now plug it back in.
Cycle the On/Off power two times. Maybe three.
Does that help?
Was it dropped ? ? QUOTE from: leanne57 on June 30, 2013, 03:40:41 PM

Does anyone know what the problem might be and if so is it fixable. Thanks

Was it dropped ? ?

Ok so here's the problem: Yesterday my ASUS k52je screen blacked-out as if I clicked Fn+F7, now if I really press Fn+F7 the screen turns on for like 0.2s and blacks out again, weird thing with this is I believe it still counts as my screen is on since I have to press Fn+F7 twice for my screen to light up again...
 
  Anyways an external screen works with no problems at all, tried to turn my COMPUTER on with or without battery so that's out of the question... Any idea what MIGHT be causing this and how to fix it ? Preferably a free solution because I can't AFFORD a new screen at the moment...

-TJ

-EDIT-

Forgot to mention that my drivers are all up to date...When the screen comes on, does it look normal?  When it goes black, if you look very closely, and perhaps under strong light, can you still see the display, just very dim?
If so, it'll be the backlight or inverter that has died.Sorry I forgot to mention that yes - I can barely see my screen when it blacks out but what was weird (and probably a signal) was that for the past 2-3 weeks whenever I turn on my laptop/screen on after a break the screen had this weird RED tint which would disappear after a minute or so... so if it is what you think I have to buy a new screen, right ? It'll be the inverter or backlight then.  Inverters are generally £3-10, fitting will vary but expect to pay around £40-60 all in.  If it's the screen itself, they can vary from around £10-100+, expect to pay £80 on AVERAGE for the screen and fitting.I was praying it wouldn't be that, but well me and god are not in the best terms... thanks anyways No problem, sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Hello

I am hoping to buy a wireless NETWORK card and wonder what details I need to give in to the shop when I buy the card.

It's a an XP desktop.

I have taken the casing off the tower and can see that there is a spare slot.

Thanks.

High1Depends which slots are available...
More info on the machine...
They are made for both PCI and PCIE slots.Thank you for replying.

I have taken a couple of PHOTOS - I think it's an ASUS motherboard.

I am attaching a couple of photos - hopefully you can work out what's what.

High1

[recovering disk space, attachment DELETED by admin]You'll need a PCI wireless card, MAKE sure they don't give you a PCI-E aka PCI-Express one by mistake as they're newer and won't fit.Thank you, Calum, much appreciated.

Enjoy your w/e.

High1

Laptop HDD shows different partition when installed in laptop and connected externally with other PC !!!Why does that bother you?
Most versions of Windows work well with partitioned disks. The common practice is to put stuff that is SELDOM needed onto its own partition.  This can help reduce FRAGMENTATION, is some canes. The partition can be set HIDDEN and read-only.
Many laptop makers provide a 'recovery' partition only used when needed do a clean install of the operating  system.
Are you having any trouble with you laptop?It definitely bothers me. When I connect it externally it shows one partition of 100 GB  and other of 365 GB and when I install same HDD in laptop it shows totally different. One is of 45 GB and other is of only 12 GB. Quote from: jnjani on July 02, 2013, 02:51:10 PM

It definitely bothers me. When I connect it externally it shows one partition of 100 GB  and other of 365 GB and when I install same HDD in laptop it shows totally different. One is of 45 GB and other is of only 12 GB.

Hello

Okay ive got a little problem with my battery it seems. "Consider replacing your battery."
I think i know how this happened. One day i was just doing my normal things on my computer, and i heard strangest sound. It was my laptop saying that the CHARGER was not in correctly. This happened for around a week or so, Until i saw sparks flying out of the laptop charger "port" Or whatever you call it. Whatever it was, It came out of my computer. At the time, i thought it was the charger. I went to go BUY a pretty expensive charger and after 2 days, The same thing happened. It started to constantly make a beeping sound (Means that the charger was being taken out and put back in). While i was trying to adjust it back in the charger "port", I once again saw sparks. I didnt really care back then, But now my battery is saying 98% available (Plugged in, Not charging) Consider replacing your battery.

Should i just stop worrying and buy a battery? Or MIGHT there be a bigger problem?

Thanks.

EDIT: Now it says fully charged 100%. Its the battery, right? Because my charger seems to be doing fineSounds like the charger port on the laptop to me, may have also damaged your battery.  I'd take it to a local REPAIR shop and ask them to have a look, they'll at least be able to tell you if the port is the issue.The sparks indicate a short circuit.  The short could be in the jack, on the motherboard, or on a motherboard peripheral.  If you're not a tinkerer, then yes you'll have to bring it to a tech.  If you can attach an ohm meter to the positive pin on the jack, and the negative lead to any ground POINT, and your reading is less than a few ohms, then you've got a short.

Doggone, this is perplexing.

Story: had a Quad Core Q6700 in a system with an intel DG965RY, 4G DDR2 RAM, simple PCIE video CARD - nothing fancy. A simple SCHOOL computer for my son. The screen went black. Troubleshooting on the Web made me suspect the power supply (it was not very strong - it was an old hand me down and the 4 pin cable was REALLY stretched tight).

I bought a new Thermaltake Smart 750W PSU. Everyhting started working fine.

8-9 months later, same thing - black screen.  Fans would only briefly turn on then off again (like about 10 seconds of running).

So I buy a PSU tester and the PSU checks out just fine.  I figure maybe the MB is flaky, so I buy new MB, processor and of course RAM since new MB needs DDR3 and this one used DDR2.  I get AMD A10 5800K with GPU, MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 MB and 8G (4G x 2) Crucial Ballistic Sport DDR3 1600MHz ([email protected])

How in the world do I still have the same problem?  No video???  I have everything breadboarded.  I've checked MB manual, reseated CPU (verifying no bent pins, proper orientation, no plastic cover and proper newly applied Artic silver in place), verified 4pin power connector, cpu fan is plugged in and spins. I short the pins to start the system with no memory and get 3 beeps. If I install 1 stick of ram (either stick in either slot) I get no more beeps but nothing on the monitor.   I plugged my laptop into the monitor and it works fine.  I should at least get bios on the monitor.

I need help!Have you BOOTED using integrated video port of the new motherboard? or are you using the video card from the initial system that failed in which the video card could be bad?

If the video card from the previous system is installed and you have integrated video, remove the card and try integrated video.

I have a dell computer with windows 7. I just bought a 1TB Seagate Backup Plus plugged it in ,and so far its not showing up in explorer. I went to the SITE and followed some instructions about going to my computer clicking manage ,but from there I'm LOST. Wondering if ANYONE could give me any ideas thanks It may not be formatted out of the factory which means Windows won't recognise it...
Right clik it in DISK Management and select Format...choose NTFS and LET it run...
Re-boot and it'll work fine.

Hello, gonna get straight to the problem.

Was around 2-3 weeks AGO i was on the comp just installing general software that most use (Anti-virus etc) and all of a SUDDEN the comp started getting extremely slow. I know i did not install anything to corrupt it at all, now to the part im confused about.

I have tried system restores, reformating etc to try get this *censored* thing to run but it just wont

Computer in question:

Zoostorm PRO Desktop PC

Processor
Intel Core i5-3330 CPU 3.0GHz
Max Turbo Frequency 3.2Ghz
Cache: 6MB

Memory
12GB DDR3 1333Mhz RAM
Supports up to 16GB
2 x DIMM sockets (used)

Hard Drive
500GB SATA HDD

Optical Drive
DVDRW

Software
Operating System: Windows© 7 Pro 64 BIT

Just ask if any more info is needed  I'd return it for a replacement under warranty terms if there is a hardware issue at the get go like this as what may be the issue. This brand of computer is a budget class computer and rated 3 of 5 stars on google. You may have gotten one of the ones that is troubled new to cause the AVERAGE to be 3 stars, and a replacement will perform correctly. Troubleshooting some brands of new computers internally can void warranties. I am assuming nothing has been added hardware wise such as video card, memory increase, etc and its the same as it was fresh out of the box?Indeed it is, might email them and see if i can

Hello all,

I have a 2.5" HDD here that appears to have died. Now my friend told me that she dropped her laptop whilst it was running, and as such I'm guessing this is why it isn't working.
A bit more detail. Ive plugged the HDD into my Mac via USB and can hear that the disk actually spins. I can also hear the head trying to move, I think it may actually be MOVING as when I put it to my ear I can hear a pattern which I think is the arm/needle moving, then failing and moving back to its retracted position and then attempting the process again. After about 3 MINUTES of this process the arm seems to give up, and my Mac brings up an error saying 'The disk you inserted was not readable by this computer'. It may be worth noting that the problem disk is a NTFS formatted disk, and whilst it would normally be pointed out that this error message is as a result of me using Mac to read a Windows formatted disk this isn't the issue as my Mac is able to read all format variants.
So after the arm gives up after the 3 and this error is displayed I can now see the disk listed under Disk Utility with nearly all of its properties listed. So I know the disk isn't COMPLETELY dead as it displays the Capacity, SN. However next to Partition Map Scheme it shows as 'unformatted' which it definitely isn't.
Has anyone please got any advice?
Thanks

Chris Chris, long time no see.

Sounds to me like the drive has been damaged by the fall, so you're getting the dreaded "click of death" - the read head trying to move to where it needs to be, failing, trying again, failing, until after enough time to drive gives up.  The PCB itself seems to be fine, which is why it's reporting the capacity and serial number, but the "meat" of the drive - the head, and therefore probably the platters as the head can scratch them when it crashes - is toast.Hey Calum,

 Yea I know, I made the jump to OS X so I've been on a more Mac based forum.
 Anyway, thanks for the information bud. I feared that this could well be the case. I think i'll end up suggesting to her we get a new HDD and install W7 onto it.
 Bit of a shame really as she has a lot of photos from her travelling on it, as well as her Uni work (fortunate that she wont need this Uni work anymore as its end of term). She also didn't have any of it backed up.

Thanks for your input and diagnosis mate

Chris Ah, you've been taken by the dark side
That is indeed a shame, you could try taking it to a DATA recovery place but I fear it won't be cheap as it's a case of physical damage rather than just data being overwritten or corrupted, or even a dead PCB, all of which are potentially fixable.
I always suggest, especially for laptops, a cloud backup service.  They may not be perfect, and it's always a good idea to have a separate physical backup too, but they are easily accessible and can be constantly running so that as soon as something is changed or a new file is written, it's also backed up online.  Perhaps something to look into in the future, though I appreciate it's none too helpful right now!Hey bud,

Just a little update. Fortunately I MANAGED to recover a quite sizeable amount of photo's from the disk. I reckon what you said is pretty much bang on as I think the platter has been scratched, and when the head gets to this position, it keeps failing, thankfully a fair amount of her images seem to of been stored before the position where this scratch this.
 As for the cloud backup service, I think you've got a very good point. I think I may suggest to her Dropbox. I know on my laptop I have multiple folders synced to my DB, and ill probably look at something similar for her also.
Thanks for the assistance matey!

ChrisAh nice, glad to hear you managed to at least get a good amount of the data back
Dropbox is worth a look, for sure, it's a limited amount of storage space initially but it works well.  Tresorit is one I use, offers 5GB free which isn't bad and it's all encrypted too if that's of interest (I got 50GB free a while back off a promotion).
My thinking is that laptop users especially don't always have a portable HDD or USB stick to back up to, and if you're on the move they can easily get lost or damaged along with the laptop, so cloud storage just provides an extra layer of backup.Good to seeya again Chris...where ya been ? ?Calum,
Thanks for that. Ill absolutely look into Tresorit!

Patio,
Yea thanks bud, likewise! Like I say, Im an Apple fanboi now and have been a little more involved with a Mac forum Most of my time however has been taken up with Uni work, dissertations etc, was all worth it in the end though as I found out I got a Distinction which I'm pretty over the moon about! Whats new with you buddy?

Think ill make more of an effort to come back here every now and then!

ChrisGood to hear all is good...it's been awhile.

Hi,

Something very weird is going on, let me explain.
I bought a used GTX580, with a gelid icy vision cooler.
I had the temps 60-70 on trackmania(60fps), crysis(50fps).

I thought I would try and get it cooler by replacing the paste.
After taking it off, there was like a massive load of 'bluetack' stuff left on, I think this was a thermal pad.

I used some AS5, and reattached unit, and temps were going over 70s, and sometimes higher.

Tried again using MX4 (cleaning with 99% isopropyl alcohol), no change.
Tried using a small amount of paste and a large amount, no change.

I since upgraded my system to watercooling as I've always wanted a custom loop, and I like to overclock my cpu. I have a D5 vario pump/res combo, with RX480 rad, and EK-supremacy nickel vga waterblock.

So..., attached the card to the waterblock (with MX4), it looked good at first, idle temps of 31C, in 28C room heat.
But as soon as I put trackmania on, the temps shot up into the 70s.
But the water in system was still only low 30s.

Had another go at reattaching waterblock to the card, with XSPC-K2, idle temps of 42, then after a few minutes, the temp rose to 90+ and computer shutdown, all I was doing was chatting on a forum.

It sounds as if there's a big gap between the 2 surfaces, but I'm clearly pressing them together, and can 'feel' the paste spreading out, before I tighten up the screws solidly.

3 of the heat sinks fell off the end of the card near to the where the power cables go, I don't think that's the reason for it.

So I'm quite fed up now, can't even use the card as it is.
I've ordered a thermal pad on ebay, but that MIGHT take a while to get here from china.

Let me know if any thoughts of whats going on, thanks.
Heres a pic http://www.colin-java.co.uk/pics/system.jpgWhat does your GPU and block look like once you take them apart, after fitting?  If you could get a picture of that, that would be an indicator of how well the GPU is making contact with the block.
How are your CPU temps at idle and under load?
Any heat pads that got torn or lost must be replaced, thermal paste can't bridge the gaps that pads are used for.  That may be part of the issue, though not all - the GPU itself will use paste, the VRAM and voltage regulators are usually where the pads are and they're still very important.  The VRMs can run at 100C+ so they're vital to cool.
Also, missing heatsinks are not good news.
What are you using to monitor the temperatures of the card?  Try GPU-Z as it'll easily grab not just your GPU temps but the PCB, VRMs, and other useful information.Thanks for quick reply, I think my VIDEO card is haunted

I took off the card from waterblock, but had to twist it as it was attached so well.
I did use quite a large amount of K2 paste this time, and put it in the middle, so when pressing surfaces together,
it would avoid any trapped air (I've also tried the spreading it over with finger, small and large amounts, but no difference).

www.colin-java.co.uk/pics/gpu1.jpg
www.colin-java.co.uk/pics/gpu2.jpg

I'm using hardware monitor for the temps, but I have gpu-z as well.
CPU idle temps are around 35C, water temp(measured at reservoir) is 31.0, room temp is 28.8.
Load temps on cpu (Using y-cruncher, give 55C, the cores varying from 51-59),
I think these temps would normally be lower, but its been roasting here the last few days.

I do have those 3 heatsinks, but nothing to attach them with at the moment.

Thanks for your help.
That is a LOT of thermal paste...you only need a very small amount, the less the better.  Thermal paste is there for one reason only - to fill the tiny gaps which would otherwise be air, as thermal paste conducts heat much much better than air, but much much worse than metal.  Your method of spreading is fine, ideally use a blob about the size of a grain of rice or, for larger GPUs like the 580, a small ball bearing, and let the pressure spread it as you screw down the block evenly.  Spreading it out just encourages air bubbles.
The reason I asked about your CPU temps is in case there was something funky with your loop as a whole, but they don't sound too bad.
Where were the 3 heatsinks on the card?  And, those heatsinks on the left in the first photo you just posted, did they come with the block?The 3 heatsinks on the left in first pic came with card, they all did.

On the right of the pic, there were 3 long heatsinks, but these were loose, so I took them off.

Also you see the 3 big square ones, on the right in the first pic.
Theres basically 4 little chips under these, and it rests on the corner of each chip.
Theres nothing centrally below the heatsink.
It seems very bad to me, like 10% of each of those chips touches the heatsink,
I would have thought each one needs to be covered.

I know the ram has to be cooled, but isn't that separate to the gpu core temp?
I do plan on putting a fan underneath the card at some point.

You think my cpu is too hot?
I was getting 50-55 load temps the other day with my H100i, but the room temp was about 24C(6 degrees less)
I put the paste on in an X and +  style, so might be too much paste, it uses a raystorm block.

Thanks for your help



Too much paste is worse than not enough as stated above...

See Here... Quote from: colin on July 13, 2013, 08:11:49 AM

The 3 heatsinks on the left in first pic came with card, they all did.

On the right of the pic, there were 3 long heatsinks, but these were loose, so I took them off.

Also you see the 3 big square ones, on the right in the first pic.
Theres basically 4 little chips under these, and it rests on the corner of each chip.
Theres nothing centrally below the heatsink.
It seems very bad to me, like 10% of each of those chips touches the heatsink,
I would have thought each one needs to be covered.

I know the ram has to be cooled, but isn't that separate to the gpu core temp?
I do plan on putting a fan underneath the card at some point.

You think my cpu is too hot?

Hello:
I just bought a Lenovo H535 computer which has a keyboard similar to my old one BUT with a lot of other commands on it and the user literature does not illustrate or explain any of the keyboard's commands!   I have made attempts to get some info about this keyboard: LXH-EKB-10YA but can find nothing anywhere at the Levono site or forum.  
Fortunately, the keyboard is very similar to my win xp by Dell so I can still work with it but would like to know what all those peculiar and different button commands are short of experimenting with them in a document or on line, etc.  So please help me understand what all this Levono keyboard does if you know.
THANKS,
jim  Do you mean the blue symbols?
look for a key like:
Fn
When you hit that  key, some other  keys change.
It should be in the documentation.
Hi: thanks for reply.  On my keyboard, the special images (including Fn) are red. 
re: It should be in the documentation.
>> That's the weird thing!   I can find no documentation for this keyboard anywhere on line or elsewhere!  I've even asked about this at the Levono forum - nobody responds!
thanks for your reply,
jim   Please check the model number again.
You said H535
But I can not find any laptop  with that number. That number is a desktop.Please post a picture of the keyboard. Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 08, 2013, 11:03:41 PM

Please check the model number again.
You said H535
But I can not find any laptop  with that number. That number is a desktop.

Please post a picture of the keyboard.

Please check the model number again.
You said H535
But I can not find any laptop  with that number. That number is a desktop.

Hi all, yesterday I did a recovery on a hard drive where ALL the customers files where DELETED. The files where removed around 6-8 months ago, probably longer.

However, I used a software called Stellar Phoenix Windows Data Recovery - Professional to recovery the files which the customer wanted. After selecting the .docx files, the recovery was successful but the .docx files will not open as they are corrupt.

Here is what I have done so fair to try and fix this -
Used several third-party software to repair the document files, no luck.
Used Microsoft Office 2010 repair but no luck.
Opened the documents in a free software like OpenOffice, this just came up with loads of characters including #, $ and such.
Sending the document via email to gmail - I read this on the internet and it apparently worked. Not for me I'm afraid.

Just to add - I am using an USB to SATA kit to do this recovery.

So there any other ways to get this documents up and running? Using different recovery maybe?

Here is the history of the hard drive -
The desktop with this hard drive in went to a computer shop due to the motherboard failure. After installing a new motherboard, totally different to the original motherboard, the desktops OS (Windows Vista) product key would not work, as its an OEM version. Not sure exactly why this computer shop did what they did but they basically reinstalled Windows Vista, removing ALL files with it. They still could not get the product key working so they used the other hard drive (as the desktop had two) and installed Windows 7 on it. The other hard drive (with Vista) as placed as a optional drive and left to do nothing. Now, I have that hard drive trying to do a recovery on it.
This happened several months ago.Welcome to CH.
Thank you for posting. Perhaps some members will ofter suggestions.
It would appear that you have done all you could.

The problem Y with the product key has happened to others. One would think  big rich Microsoft could make it EASY for  users to restore the system.

Actually, they do offer some help. But you have to look for it.
http://support.microsoft.com/gp/cu_sc_prodact_master
The link above is helpful, but might not fix your specific issue.I would say that with the way the shop totally buffooned the install that your only hope at this POINT would be a data recovery service...
Stop using the HDD.
Let's face it...an OS has now been installed to that drive 3 times now from your info...The product key is not the problem, this topic isn't about the product key.

The issue is the recovery on the files, that's it.

The OS was re-installed once on that hard drive, removing the files. There was nothing more done to that hard drive. Quote

Stop using the HDD.

your only hope at this point would be a data recovery service...

Just 1 question - As I did a full advance recovery on the hard drive, the size was over 1000GB. What are the chances of ALL of this data recovered, placed on a 2TB hard drive and seeing if the word documents can be repaired that way? This way would determine if the ghost files exist, also every other data is intact (well, recovered).

my 2TB external drive with loads of stuff that was important, had been formatted - Thanks windows!  That message must have popped up after Id plugged in the external drive, and when Id moved the laptop I must have inadvertantly hit a button and said 'yes' to format it.

"Thanks Windows"? That was you, not Windows.

PEBKAC tends to cover most PC problems, including my own..... :-)

I have a Hewlett Packard desktop computer. 920 GB hard drive with 641 GB free. Intel Core i3 CPU 530 2,93GHz, 6.0GB RAM, Intel Graphics Media Accelerator HD
Windows 7 Home - 64-bit SP1
Purchased 4-9-10.  Had a two year warranty which is now expired.
Computer is clean -- no dust.

Yesterday I started having a 'muffled DEEP beep' inside of the computer itself. (Not through the speakers.)
There are 4 short beeps together -- and it happens exactly every 5 minutes.

I have ran ccleaner to registry. I use McAfee virus checker and have done a full scan.

What is probably/possibly making these beeps? 

Many thanks for your help!Look at event log of Windows under management for any errors. Also run speedfan and check out your temps to make sure that its not a temp alarm for the CPU etc.Many, many thanks!  I downloaded SpeedFan and watched part of a tutorial -- enough to see the red arrows going the wrong direction!  Hmmmmm . . .  too hot!  So TOMORROW I will conquer this!

I so appreciate your help!Glad to help. How hot was the CPU displaying on speedfan with the red arrow?

 I would make sure the CPU heatsink is not plugged up with HAIR, lint, dust etc and fan blades are free of build up. A can of canned air for around $5 can blow out most build ups. If the heatsink is not plugged up with a build up, then I would remove the heatsink from the CPU carefully and replace the thermal grease which may have dried up. *Before you do this be sure to pick up new thermal grease also known as thermal compound. I like to use Arctic Silver which can be purchased at Staples, Radio Shack, and other stores that carry computer parts or purchased online.

To replace the thermal compound/grease you will want to have q-tips handy and wipe off the old likely dried up compound so that metal that is clean between the heatsink surface and the CPU top is exposed. Then apply a drop of it to the center of the CPU, and some people then apply the heatsink and allow the drop to spread out when squashed between heatsink and CPU surface. I like to apply a drop and then use a toothpick or stick of a q-tip to spread it out manually to ensure that the entire surface is coated with thermal compound/grease and this way cooling is even and I dont have to worry about an uneven bond between the CPU and heatsink. You want the thickness if you spread it out to be as thin as possible to be a sheen on the surface as for if too much is applied it will squirt out the 4 sides of the CPU and spill over onto the socket etc and make a mess. A sheen of it that is close to the thickness of paper is plenty as for not much is needed to make the thermal bond between both surfaces.

Other things that people have done to make a CPU cooler is replacing the cheap block of cast aluminum with a heatsink that is rated to cool better, but you have to make sure you get the correct heatsink, and the heatsink will clear other neighboring components. *I have seen before where someone bought a heatsink that was massive, and the side panel wouldnt shut on the computer because it stood too tall off the motherboard.

*** Also to break the bond between the old compound and free the heatsink away from the CPU, do not pull straight up as for you could rip the CPU out of the socket and damage the computer. With the tabs or clip(s) unlocked I try to rotate the heatsink clockwise and counter clockwise carefully not to break anything except for the bond between the CPU and the heatsink. Wiggling back and FORTH clockwise and counter clockwise will remove the bond by introducing air to the compound and the vacuum tight bond will break and it will come free. You do not need to remove the CPU, just the heatsink. The CPU heatsink will have a few wires that plug the fan into the motherboard. Keep track of where it was plugged in as for some motherboards have similar jacks NEARBY for chasis fan etc, and you want the CPU fan to be plugged only into the CPU fan jack.

If you have any questions feel free to ask for assistance

Hello friends. I searched to the internet how looks signals from usb mouse but I have not found anywhere.
I want to make a controller for USB mouse, but nothing on on the internet.
Can anyone help me?Welcome to CH.
Volunteers here will help you with any Computer problem.
Please explain what you need to do.
Is your USB mouse broken?
Do you want to make your own USB interface?
Maybe this article has interest for you
http://gizmodo.com/5928497/why-usb-will-replace-every-power-connector-you-own
Some details. please
Quote from: geowilky on July 14, 2013, 09:16:13 AM

Hello friends. I searched to the internet how looks signals from usb mouse but I have not found anywhere.

by Chris Woodford. Last updated: July 5, 2013.

Once upon a time, if you'd seen a mouse in your room you might have screamed and jumped up on the desk. Today, the mouse has jumped on your desk instead: it's the handy little pointer that makes your computer easy to use. The first mouse was made of wood and designed over four decades ago in 1961. Today, mice sell by the million and hardly a computer ships without one. They've changed quite a bit in that time but they still work in much the same way. Let's take a look inside!....

Differential signaling is a method of transmitting information electrically with two complementary signals sent on two paired wires, called a differential pair. Since external interference tend to affect both wires together, and information is sent only by the difference between the wires, the technique improves resistance to electromagnetic noise compared with use of only one wire and an un-paired reference (ground)...

I bought a ROKU , at my parents it worked great. I brought it home and it was reloading every 5 mins my computer speed it QUICKER than theirs so I was wondering if it was my router.
Thank you.It could be the router, or the placement, or poor wireless signal caused by interference, distance or even the walls.
Do you use any other devices wirelessly?  Do you have the Roku a fair distance from the router?  What kind of construction is your house?  Thick stone walls are really bad for wireless transmissions, equally if you have any metal in the way that'll do a good JOB of stopping the transmission.It's in the same room at the other end. No walls in between. I have a tablet and 1 computer and netflix in the bedroom. It was better today but now that it's evening it's doing it again. My son has told me before that he THOUGHT our connection was worse in the afternoon. Is that even possible?More wireless devices being used at once can clog up and slow down a wireless connection.A very simple test for this is to plug an Ethernet cord into your computer and run it directly to your Modem.  Do a speed test at www.speedtest.net before and after you run the cord to the modem.

I have a Perixx laser mouse and every so often I hear the WINDOWS sound that it has disconnected from the usb (link below).  My mouse become unresponsive for a short while until I hear the sound that it has reconnected and all works fine again. I would say it just does it randomly just now and then, but I cannot figure out whats wrong with it. I have tried some fixes that I thought would help, like changing it to a different usb port and I have tried uninstalling it and reinstalling it. I also looked on their website and it tells you to just use the window driver, so there is no manufacture driver for it. The only other thing I could think of is that I use a HARD mouse mat and sometimes it GETS oily from USING it by hand. Do you you think this could cause it? That maybe the laser has run over a oily surface or SOMETHING?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Perixx-MX-2000-Programmable-Gaming-Laser/dp/B0083H4NG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374162179&sr=8-1&keywords=perixx+mousePossibly the mouse is faulty; have you tried it on another computer, and tried a different mouse?

I have the asetek LCLC liquid cooling and I'm trying to exchange my MB for another one because the CPU FAN header is not working. But the bracket that mounts to the MB is not coming off. I unscrewed 3 of the screws that bolts it to the MB but the 4th one is STUCK. When I turn it, it basically turns with the threaded metal inserts that are on the back of the MB. I've tried screwing all 4 in and just unscrewing that 4th one but still no luck. I've been trying for hours and hours and I'm pretty much stuck. I don't want to have to buy a new MB and a new CPU cooler....

The installation guide looks like this http://www.asetek.com/images/stories/support/installation-guides/asetek-installation-web.pdf
The step 2 threaded metal insert is turning with the step 3 J screw when it's not supposed to. Did anyone ever experience this problem before? ThanksI've had this problem before, it APPEARS to be because the plastic bracket that holds the inserts is, in short, rubbish.  It's far too easy to end up with the insert basically gouging a small hole and then being able to turn freely.
If it's unscrewed even slightly, you may be able to get a grip on the insert from underneath with some needle nose pliers and then unscrew the screw.  If not, well, you'll have to use something anyway to hold the insert still while you unscrew the screw.
It's a little hard to explain but I've done this MAYBE 15-20 times with the Corsair rebranded versions (H50 mainly) due to the exact same issue.Thanks again. I'm definitely going to give that a try. I hope I don't have to buy a new MB and a cooling because of this.Put it this way, I have built maybe 500 systems with LCLCs, and had direct experience with PROBABLY another 2000 or so builds with them in, and never had to abandon one (or the motherboard it was attached to) due to this particular fault - other problems, sure, but not this one.  You will need a new plastic bracket though.

I just upgraded my computer with a asus z87-k, 4770k, gtx 770, 16gb DDR crucial ram, and an asetek LCLC liquid cooling. At first everytime my computer was booting it would get to the windows loading bar and from there it would say "windows has failed to load." I would have the option to repair and that ends up with nothing as it says it can't be fixed. I tried doing a system restore and right after it says "finalizing restore," it gives me an error saying that it failed. This is WEIRD because right before I installed my new parts my hard drive was working just fine and it even installed a bunch of windows updates. Would it be possible that my hard drive is incompatible with the new motherboard? But it should be fine since it's a sata3.

Another issue is that with the asetek liquid cooling plugged into the CPU FAN in the motherboard everytime it boots it says "CPU FAN ERROR press F1." It wouldn't be a problem but under monitor the CPU temperature is actually increasing. I've tried plugging it into the CHA FAN and it still gives me an error but I am able to boot if I go into the bios menu. The fan actually shows the rpm and also the CPU is at the right temperature. It was working before until I replugged in some things to see if my windows would boot correctly. So is it possible my motherboard is defective?

Thanks!!1. the most likely cause is that your system was installed with the SATA controller in IDE mode, and the new board has defaulted to AHCI.  Change it to IDE and see what HAPPENS, that should resolve your issue.  Make sure your HDD is on an Intel port, too, not an add-on like Marvell or Asmedia.

2. I find with those LCLC setups it's best to use a Molex to fan adapter for the pump, to make sure the pump gets the voltage it needs and the board doesn't try and slow it down by regulating the voltage - this makes the pump not work properly and can actually damage the pump too.  Try that if possible, and plug the fan in anywhere you please, and let us know what your temperatures are like.  Do you HEAR the pump start up and vibrate as normal?Thanks for the response! I switched it back to IDE and I also tried it on another system. It gets to the window 7 screen where it's loading and it gives me an instant BSOD that flashes for less than a second and then restarts. After that it gives me the option to repair or launch windows normally. Did I break it by plugging it in when it was set to ahci? It was working fine before the new MB.

The liquid cooling only came with one 3 pin plug and according to the manual it says that goes in the CPU FAN. It's kinda weird that it was working before and now it just stopped. Quote from: Steven5210 on July 13, 2013, 12:24:46 PM

Thanks for the response! I switched it back to IDE and I also tried it on another system. It gets to the window 7 screen where it's loading and it gives me an instant BSOD that flashes for less than a second and then restarts. After that it gives me the option to repair or launch windows normally. Did I break it by plugging it in when it was set to ahci? It was working fine before the new MB.

The liquid cooling only came with one 3 pin plug and according to the manual it says that goes in the CPU FAN. It's kinda weird that it was working before and now it just stopped.

OK, I'm just saying I've had more success using an adapter to plug the pump into the power supply instead.  What rpm is it showing as in the BIOS?

yesterday As soon as I opened my Computer showed me a blue screen. I don't know how will solve it. can some one SUGGEST me what should i do in this situation?Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and DOUBLE click on BlueScreenView.exe to RUN the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in NOTEPAD, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply

Ok, search didn't help so I have to ask.  Every wireless mouse I see is 2.4 gh.  I have 2 pc's on desks within 5 feet of each other.  If I buy new wireless mice at the same frequency will they INTERFERE?  I hate wired mice, especially for cadcam, when the wire moves the mouse as I let go it can be bad.  Bad costs money.  Any SUGGESTIONS?An item of wireless desk equipment such as a mouse or keyboard is 'paired' with its own receiver. That is, within the wireless band used there are multiple channels and each receiver/mouse pair will use a different channel. If you happen to get two mice/receiver pairs which are set up on the same channel, usually you can retune one by pressing a pairing button on the receiver and then one on the mouse.

Even so, two wireless devices can sometimes interfere by blanking or reducing each other's signal; you can get this effect if you have a cell phone on the desk too. In this case you would move them apart slightly.

So CHECK that the models you plan to buy have channel selection/retune BUTTONS. GENERALLY a manual will be available online.

Hello everyone,
I'm about to buy a new gaming rig so far it looks like this:
CPU: i7-4770k
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 SC w/ACX
CPU-cooler: Corsair h100i
PSU: Corsair AX860i
RAM: Kingston HyperX Beast 16gb(4x4gb or 2x8gb?) 2400mhz CL11 (11-13-13)
MOBO: Asus Maximus VI Hero
SSD: Samsung Pro 840 256GB
HDD: WD Black 2TB
Chassis: NZXT PHANTOM 820

My questions as for overclocking:
Which STABLE clock would my CPU run at, and what clockrate could I set my Rams at with that CPU clock? (I know that the CPU Clock > Ram clock). Also I know you can't give me specific answers to this but some PROFILE suggestions would be nice Also which range would I be in (4.3-4.8GHZ CPU 2133Mhz Ram speed? or More likely 4.3-4.5GHZ CPU 1866Mhz Ram speed?) Also note that the system must be 100% stable for a 24/7 usage. What should I be looking into here, and also please tell me if it's totally overkill to get the 2400MHZ rams ^^ When you say you need the system 24/7 stable, what do you do with it?  If it's very critical, don't overclock it, and you should probably be using Xeons and ECC RAM.  If not, just let us know what you're doing with it, and we'll advise based on that.
CPU clock speed is far more important to performance than RAM clock, yes.  2400MHz RAM is completely pointless unless you like to run benchmarks all day, I'd go with some 1600 or even 1333MHz instead.
Your PSU is very much overkill for your system, do you plan to go SLI or tri-SLI later on?Thanks for your reply, I just want a very stable system thats all - also I can get the Kingston HyperX Beast 16gb 2400Mhz at a very cheap price in my local store thats why i'm prolly going with them I'll mainly be using my PC for gaming but I like to run graphic demanding games and I do play them 10 hours a day sometimes ^^ So i don't want an unstable system.

And yes i chose the PSU because I want the opportunity for SLI or tri-SLI Well, if you can get the HyperX cheap, then by all means go for it!
What clock speed you'll achieve will vary depending on your individual CPU, but I would be fairly confident in saying 4.2GHz should be an easily attainable CPU speed without seeing too much of a temperature increase, or having to work particularly hard to maintain stability.  4.4GHz is also fairly easy but requires good COOLING and more work.  4.6GHz requires excellent cooling and a lot of work to get the system rock stable, above that is a lottery. Quote

Also note that the system must
be 100% stable for a 24/7 usage.

It seems that I am not going to get the board I want. So does anyone know what type of PCI CARD I NEED to enable 3-4 IDE devices on a Sata only board? Again I'm having trouble FINDING what I need. The boards as i stated are available...
2nd CHOICE would be an addon PCI-e IDE CONTROLLER card to suit your needs...

Why did you start a new Topic as most seeing this will not know what the heck you are asking...

Please give more information?
Is this a laptop? You battery may be failing.
Is this a Desktop? The CMOS cell may be too old.
What Operating system?
What brand of computer?

Hello,

I would like to upgrade from USB 2.0 to 3.0 on my Dell OptiPlex 790. I've mentioned this to several "tech savvy" individuals, and I wanted to get a clear picture of THINGS...

OptiPlex website (http://www.dell.com/support/troubleshooting/us/en/04/Servicetag/DSXZQW1?s=BIZ)
Service Tag: DSXZQW1

So I know I can purchase a "Rosewill 2-Port USB 3.0 PCI Express Card Model RC-505" and it will fit in one of my ports, but I've been told that I need USB 3.0 connections on the inside of my machine in order to get USB 3.0 speeds. Otherwise, my 3.0 ports would only run at 2.0 speeds. 

Is this true?
If it is, then what's the point of UPGRADING?

I have not purchased any products at this moment. That's a PCI Express card so will get the full speed.

What those other people are getting mixed up with is if you were to connect a USB 3.0 device to a 2.0 port.  That card contains a physical USB 3.0 controller chip, MUCH like you would find on many USB 3.0 enabled motherboards.In ADDITION to the above, they may mean that you won't get USB3 speeds from the front ports, which is true because a USB3 card doesn't upgrade the USB2 ports, just adds USB3 ports.Think of your new USB 3 card being as fast as PLUGGING in a standalone video card into a PCI-e slot. You're going to get really fast data transfers. Have fun!Thanks guys
I really appreciate the help

All of you get gold stars  Cool...can we turn them in for chocolate-chip cookies ? ?