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Hi,

I just bought the DELL S2440L 24" monitor but FACING some issues.

If I got to max resolution 1920x1080 the screen has black lines flashing on it and every few minutes the screen GOES black for a couple of seconds then comes back.

I found if I lower the resolution to 1280x720 there is no problem.

I am connecting VIA HDMI because my monitor only has VGA which my graphic card has only DVI which is a ATI Radeon HD 5700 series.

Here is the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nh00hdEHo4c

Any help appreciated!

Hey all, finally decided it was time to upgrade my ancient computer as it has recently started having some stability issues, and I've also taken a large interest in the MMO World of Warcraft. I've been playing at 2-5 fps during empty questing areas, followed by hard drive failures. Right now I'm using a Pentium 4 1.13 GHZ with 512 MB of RAM and an ancient 64 MB GeForce card.  Anyways, I've been looking around for a cheap cheap prebuilt computer, as it seems I'd have to spend just as much to build what I'm looking for myself (please show me if not!), and this is what I've come up with for specs so far:

AMD A55 Chipset
Processor: AMD A4-3420 DUAL Core 2.8 GHZ, 1 MB L2 cache
RAM: 6 GB DDR3 1600 MHZ
HDD: 500 GB 7200 RPM SATA (unknown brand)
Graphics: ATI Radeon 6410D (integrated APU chip)
PSU: 300w (unknown brand, I believe it's a standard ATX size)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883256800

Now my first question is, would this be good enough to run some not so modern games like WoW at DECENT (~30) framerates in raids/battlegrounds/groups? I'd be playing at low resolution (1024x768 SD) and low graphical settings don't BOTHER me in the least.

My second question is if the first answer is no, it's not powerful enough   I believe I can fit a different PSU in this box, although I'm not 110% if it has a 6 pin connector or what inside...any clues there? And if not would I be safe throwing an ATI Radeon 7750 in it? I know that only draws power from the PCI-E 16x slot, but I'd feel much safer doing that if I could throw a 350w+ PSU in it. Any input?

Thank you everyone for your time!

Oh, forgot to add, I'd really like to keep the budget under $350 if at all possible. Thanks again!
It's an okay computer. It won't run modern games on maximum graphics, but it will run them.

Here are some useful links:

CPU Comparison
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/mid_range_cpus.html

GPU Comparison
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/mid_range_gpus.html

Your CPU clocks in at 2,135 points
GPU is at 531

These are benchmarks tests. basically - how fast can they run.

You can use those websites to compare with your current computer.

I would check out other offers on Newegg - see if you can find any better.

The OP could provide a clue as to his budget. It just could be that a business computer removed  from an lease would have the CPU and memory he needs, but not the Video Graphics.
Dell sells refurbished desktops with dual core 64 bit CPU and a OEM version of Windows 7. This might be more cost-effective that building from abstract. Just have to add a top graphics card.

In the USA, Best Buy is a local store that can sell such computers with a warranty.
Here is top HP model they offer.
Quote

Compare
Sale: $579.98
HP - Refurbished ENVY Desktop - 12GB Memory - 2TB Hard Drive
Model: h8-1437c
SKU: 8116065
Windows 8 64-bit
Technical details: 3rd Gen Intel® Core™ i5 processor; 12GB memory; 2TB hard drive
Special features: 1GB dedicated graphics; built-in wireless networking; Bluetooth

The OP could provide a clue as to his budget.

I have an HP D7-4177nr Laptop, I replaced the motherboard because there was no video and the caps lock was blinking 5 times (bad video), got the new motherboard still no video now 1 blink on caps link now (bad CPU).

So I thought I got a DOA CPU, bought another one same thing. Please help, has anyone had this problem.

I also plugged in a external monitor so I know the screen is GOOD. What else could it be? Replaced with OEM motherboard.Sorry I can not help you. Just want to tell you your request is being read.

BTW; you can type with just the default font.

Unless you are a trained service technician, I would SUGGEST you sell the computer and the motherboard for 'as-is' parts and invest in something else.

To my knowledge, keyboards have no way of knowing if the motherboard is  failing.

If you can turn on and off the caps lock light, most of the motherboard is working. It takes over 90% of the chips running to just toggle the caps lock.
Wolfwatcher81, Welcome to the forums. I modified your post to make it more readable.

Did YOU replace the motherboard, or did authorized service technicians replace it?I replaced it myself, please see this hp site about POST codes

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01732674&tmp_task=solveCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=3860630#N215This is what I found  on HP

Caps Lock/Num Lock   1   CPU   CPU not functional   Reseat replace CPU.

Caps Lock/Num Lock   2   BIOS    BIOS corruption failure   

Caps Lock/Num Lock   3   Memory   Memory MODULE error not functional   

Caps Lock/Num Lock   4   Graphics   Graphics controller not functional
   
Caps Lock/Num Lock   5   System board   GENERAL system board failure
   
Caps Lock/Num Lock   6   BIOS   BIOS authentication failure   


May I ask, why didn't you send it for repair?costAh, totally understand. It can get pretty ridiculous without warranty.

When you power on the computer, does the HP splash screen come up?No Black Screen, and also tried external monitor.  Are you sure everything is connected properly (within the laptop)?

Make sure the RAM is seated properly (and in the right spot).

If you hook up a USB keyboard, does the light also blink?Found the problem bad GPU on both motherboard's did a reflow and now works with original CPU.

Reflowed GPU, North bridge, and South bridge with liquid flux and heat gun, now works perfect wit the original CPU.
Good to know!

I have a Packard Bell EasyNote TJ68 with 4.00GB memory. It's a FAIRLY old computer but I've had this PROBLEM since I got the computer and I've finally snapped. When I plug my laptop in to charge, it makes a very loud noise unless I have the speakers on mute. This wouldn't be a problem but my laptop power cable is slightly loosened so if I'm sitting with it on my lap and I'm listening to music, it's always make a horrible noise every TIME the cable dis or re-connects when I move. I can't for the life of me figure out how to disable this noise. I've gone into sound and power options, and switched everything I saw to mute and still nothing. Please help!Probably a screaming capicator...
MBoard replacement would be the only way out...unless you pay a shop to disassemble it and replace the bad cap which more than likely would be more than a new board. Quote from: chammy on April 28, 2013, 05:01:10 PM

my laptop power cable is slightly loosened so  if I'm sitting with it on my lap and I'm listening to music, it's always make a horrible noise every time the cable dis or re-connects when I move.

Yes as the title says I want to totally erase a hard drive but RETAIN Windows :p

So the scenario is that I have a wonderfully preserved P4 machine that I would like to give to a friend’s kids (their first PC). The problem is that it contains sensitive information. I trust that the people I'm giving the PC to would have no idea how to retrieve the data if I just deleted it but I would rather be safe than sorry.

So how do I back up only Windows and installed programs and erase the HDD without copying any confidential information?



Accessless, bringing you only the most ridiculous problems. Here's my suggestion.  Delete all user-created files (Documents, photos, videos, email, etc.).  Then, download and install CCleaner and use its Drive Wiper tool; you can wipe only free space or the entire drive, and you can choose up to 35 passes, meaning data will be overwritten with random strings of binary code 35 times.  To retain Windows and Programs, be sure to tell CCleaner to wipe only free space. 

For more info on using CCleaner for this and for info on other methods of accomplishing your objective, see http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/5-tools-permanently-delete-sensitive-data-hard-drive-windows/Do you ALREADY have a backup plan? If so., do this.
1. Crate a new user on the computer,. Full administrator.  No password. Also, remove the password for the administrator account. Destroy your user.
2.  UN-install any programs you do not want them to have.
3. Make a full backup using a method that does both system and files into an compressed format on an eternal device, like a USB HDD. The windows backup program will work. Or use a third-party program.
4. Format the drive using any method.  (Boot able floppy will work, or a bookable version GPART on PUPPY Linux.)
5. Restore from Backup device. Partition must be active. You need a boot CD le CD or USB with a restore program compatible with the backup you made.

Fort most users, this is enough data protection. Virtually all  the old data will be gone.

Please ask questions about any of the above.
Short answer...can't be done...
Long answer...if you get a Win MS CD and do a wipe and re-install you can use the COA key code to activate Windows aND RETURN THE cd...THE VERSIONS NEED TO MATCH. Quote from: patio on April 24, 2013, 09:23:50 AM

Short answer...can't be done...

Here's my suggestion.  Delete all user-created files (Documents, photos, videos, email, etc.).  Then, download and install CCleaner and use its Drive Wiper tool; you can wipe only free space or the entire drive, and you can choose up to 35 passes, meaning data will be overwritten with random strings of binary code 35 times.  To retain Windows and Programs, be sure to tell CCleaner to wipe only free space. 

For more info on using CCleaner for this and for info on other methods of accomplishing your objective, see http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/5-tools-permanently-delete-sensitive-data-hard-drive-windows/

One last shot...
The amount of time it takes to do any of the above varies a lot. And requires some attention to detail during the process.
The best way may be the idea Patio gave. It would require less intervention of the part of the OP to carry it out.

I sell all my used PC's with a new HDD...i have all the HDD's I've ever owned ...after about the 3rd year or so...

Short answer...can't be done...
Long answer...if you get a Win MS CD and do a wipe and re-install you can use the COA key code to activate Windows and RETURN THE CD...THE VERSIONS NEED TO MATCH.

This means that, given the right software, someone could reconstruct all, or parts of files that you've deleted. For privacy and security reasons, you can set CCleaner to wipe the free areas of your hard disk so that deleted files can never be recovered.

Note: Wiping free space can take a substantial amount of time.

Is it possible for a power supply to BURN out from getting too hot? I just got my main computer back from the computer repair place. The North bridge cooling fan had an issue and when I tried to fix it (had to take out the PCI Express video card out to get the fan off to fix, oil, it) I put the video card back but the computer wouldn't recognize it. I tried to solve the problem but it was beyond me. So I took it in for the free DIAGNOSTICS of the card and the computer. Both were OK, I don't know why it didn't work for me. Any way the tech said some thing about having a case fan or two hooked up weird and I should change them. He also said he unhooked on because it was hooked up wrong. Well I get the computer home and it's running fine. I am installing some software that's taking a while so I go to the store for a minute. I get back and the computer isn't running and I smell that awful melting plastic/burning electrical smell. I think oh no. I had the case cover off when I set it up so I smelled around and it's the power supply. I put my hand on the supply case and it's really hot. I try to restart the computer and nothing happens.
Just a bit ago I decided to take the power supply out and see if I can find a reset button. I noticed the wire to the power supply fan isn't hooked up to any thing. I think this is the fan the tech unplugged. I couldn't find any where to plug it in so I unplugged one of the case fans and put it back together. It still won't start.
Quote

The North bridge cooling fan had an issue and when I tried to fix it (had to take out the PCI Express video card out to get the fan off to fix, oil, it)

Just a bit ago I decided to take the power supply out and see if I can find a reset button. I noticed the wire to the power supply fan isn't hooked up to any thing. I think this is the fan the tech unplugged. I couldn't find any where to plug it in so I unplugged one of the case fans and put it back together. It still won't start.

1. currently have a msi 790 gx-g65 mobo with 3.2 ghz phenom II x2 processor. thinking of getting a phenom II x6 2.75 ghz, would that be significantly faster/better?

2. looking at a 2 gb gtx 650 gpu, Pcie 3.0 x16.  I know that i have pcie x16 but I do not know if its pcie 3.0 .... should that matter at all? if i get the card should it work okay and be better/faster? currently have a radeon 5670 hd 1gb.

All this on a 450w PSU, should be fine right?

thanks

and probably will keep my 4gb ram, if not add another 2 or 4....but doesn't look like I need to. And yes, this is all primarily for gaming if not work.At this pint in time., new motherboard. and CPU gives the best overall upgrade.
This is now on New egg.
Quote

Free 8GB desktop memory w/ purchase, limited offer MSI 990FXA-GD65V2 Desktop Motherboard - AMD 990FX Chipset - Socket AM3+

    Number of Memory Slots: 4
    Audio Channels: 7.1 Channels
    Maximum Memory Supported: 32GB
    PCI Express x16: 2
    Model #: 990FXA-GD65 V2
    Item #: N82E16813130677
    RETURN Policy: Standard Return Policy

    $129.99
   
    $6.14 Shipping

1. currently have a msi 790 gx-g65 mobo with 3.2 ghz phenom II x2 processor. thinking of getting a phenom II x6 2.75 ghz, would that be significantly faster/better?

2. looking at a 2 gb gtx 650 gpu, Pcie 3.0 x16.  I know that i have pcie x16 but I do not know if its pcie 3.0 .... should that matter at all? if i get the card should it work okay and be better/faster? currently have a radeon 5670 hd 1gb.

All this on a 450w PSU, should be fine right?

You need a new HDD...

Hi All,

Please bear with me as im asking this question for my son and not entirely sure if this is a daft question or not 

Here goes, my son has an old laptop which he needs to use with the internet while his other is being fixed and it does not have a USB port, is there any way he can connect it to the router, someone said about using a parallel to USB lead .. ?

So any help would be very much appreciated (even if its to say "no" and im a numbskull ! )

Thanks everyone

Even if it's older it should have an RJ45 port...looks like a phone jack port EXCEPT a bit bigger...
He can connect directly to the router with that.
If he's unsure have him post the Model # here... Quote from: patio on April 27, 2013, 08:49:03 AM

If he's unsure have him post the Model # here...

Even if it's older it should have an RJ45 port

Thanks both

It doesn't have one apparently

Its a Dell Latitude CPI - ancient i know but this is all he has for a week or so

aha, ok, thats not an option then... well ive just learned that there "is" a USB port BUT its knackered, it needs replacing, is it worth doing so or will that cost me more than a new pair of spangly shoooes  ??

Hello,
I'm having trouble with my computer after downloading Drivermax. It updated my MOUSE USB driver, and things went downhill from there. I removed Drivermax using Revo Uninstaller. I scanned my computer in safe mode with Malwarebytes, and it came back clean. I tried to find my Nexxtech NX2 mouse with 'Add Hardware' but it would only find my PS2 mouse. Only 2 of the 5 USB ports make a noise when I plug in my USB mouse, but the caption says it can't find the hardware. I'm currently using my PS2 mouse. I tried Intel's driver update utility, and it didn't have any updates, nor did microsoft update. I tried the majority of these things in safe mode, including Malwarebytes. In device manager, there is no yellow exclamation point, and the microsoft ps2 mouse is the only one listed. Any help is appreciated.

1) NEVER use third party apps for drivers.
2) Drivers should only be updated if there is a specific need or reason to do so.
3) Use SYSTEM restore to go back to a time before you had a problem. Then uninstall drivermaxHere are some suggestions.
A. Does your computer BIOS have any option for USB mouse or USB legacy support?
B. have you tried using your computer without the PS/2 mouse installed? Be careful; the PS/2 mouse can be destroyed if you plug and unplug it with POWER on.
C. Have you tried using your USB mouse with one of those LITTLE adapters that converts USB two PS/2?

The above suggestions will help you learn if the USB mouse itself has a serious deficiency. When a USB device does not work on any port, it could mean the device has some hardware or electrical deficiency that cannot be corrected by installing new drivers.
Normally, Windows XP does a good job of finding the right mouse drivers for whatever type of mouse you are using. Spatial driver managers are seldom needed for updating a mouse driver. And personally, I do not recommend third party driver finder software. My own experiences with such programs has not been satisfactory.
A. Does your computer BIOS have any option for USB mouse or USB legacy support?
    Do I check this by rebooting and pressing F2?

B. have you tried using your computer without the PS/2 mouse installed? Be careful; the PS/2 mouse can be destroyed if you plug and unplug it with   power on.
     I haven't tried rebooting with only the keyboard plugged in once it fully boots, after being restarted.

C. Have you tried using your USB mouse with one of those little adapters that converts USB two PS/2?
    No I haven't

When a USB device does not work on any port, it could mean the device has some hardware or electrical deficiency that cannot be corrected by installing new drivers.

I'm pretty sure that the ports are cool. It HAPPENED as soon as Drivermax finished updating my USB driver, and after rebooting.


I tried Microsoft fix it for USB, but it showed no problems. I then bought a wireless mouse, which the computer recognizes no problem, but the mouse still won't move. According to the computer, the hardware is found, and supposed to be working???Please provide name of computer. The right USB drivers are on the site of the Motherboard maker.

If you're not sure of the motherboard name, try the free version of EVEREST Home Edition.
http://www.snapfiles.com/get/everest.html

It will probe  system, make no changes, then  show you what hardware you have.
It is a trusted product.

We, I mean others besides me, suspect the 'driver' service did a bad job on your computer. We believe drivers should only come from the maker of the  Computer whenever possible.
Did you use system restore as I suggested?I went into safe mode Allan and choose the last configuration that worked option. I'm assuming that this wasn't what you meant. I'll find out how to use system restore.

I downloaded Everest, and it said my motherboard was bx97520j.86a.2674.2007.0315.1546. I found this as well. I'm not sure if it helps.
http://downloadmirror.intel.com/13538/eng/BX2_2770_ReleaseNotes.pdf

Does anyone recommend reinstalling my USB driver/s? Is it possible that I'm being blocked by one of the 'drivers' or host controllers I downloaded via Drivermax? One of them is something from Texas Instruments. I don't remember ever seeing that, and I know it was one of the downloads that I did.That is not your MBoard...that is the BIOS revision it uses...what MBoard is listed by Everest ? ?
If it's not listed try SIW...System Info for Windows...also Free.
Then we can locate your MBoard chipset drivers and re-install them which i believe will solve the issue.I downloaded SIW. Below is what came up under motherboard

Intel Corporation
Model d975xbx2
Version aad53350-504
Serial Number bqb245000h3
North Bridge Intel i975x Revision A0
South Bridge Intel 82801gb (ich7/r) revision A1
Intel core tm 2 CPU 6600 2.40GHzDrivers Here...Wonderful. Thanks for finding that. Do I delete all of the chipset drivers in device manger first. If so, are they located under Universal Serial Bus controllers?

Also, in the link below. Can I download the Marvell Driver and IDT audio driver when I'm done fixing the Chipset driver?
No need to delete the old ones...they willl be over-written...
Re-boot after the Chipset driver install...then install any additional needed ones.
USB is included in MBoard chipset...I went ahead and had to reinstall Windows XP. I appreciate the help friends.You still need to re-install the correct drivers...
Don't rely on the generic ones included with Windows.

Quote from: wasim7000 on April 29, 2013, 10:59:26 AM

i have LOOK i can not find 1

Guys, I have a monitor that only has 1 VGA input. It is already attached to a PC. I have a macbook with it's own docking station that I would like to share this monitor with. The docking station has a mini display port for HDMI out.

First, I thought of getting a converter. To convert the VGA to a FEMALE HDMI, so it can accept the hdmi connection coming from the macbook. But then I realize I don't want to always be unplugging and replugging whenever I want to use VGA with the pc or hdimi with the macbook.

So my plan is to split the VGA with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Monitor-Splitter-Supporting/dp/B005H3I38G/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367023732&sr=1-1&keywords=vga+splitter

So one can be connected to the PC at all times, and the other can then use a VGA to hdmi converter like this: http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Hammerhead-HDMI-Converter-1080p/dp/B006LP0FXA/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367023981&sr=1-6&keywords=vga+to+hdmi+converter. That one can then connect to my macbook when I need to.

Anything wrong with what I'm TRYING? Does anyone know of a better cleaner method? Some sort of all inclusive switch box or something?

Thanks!Won't work. You have to have a mechanical, physical way to change the connection path. I used to do this with a switch made for that purpose.

The older ones, used but working go for under $20.
The new ones cost more that getting non old monitor from a local thrift store.

EDIT: Yeah, there is another way,n but I sensed that you were cost restrained. Commercial and industrial users have a special method with auto-switching devices.  If you shave to ask what it cost, you can't afford it.Geek-9pm... It actually worked. I went with a vga splitter: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Monitor-Splitter-Supporting/dp/B005H3I38G/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367023732&sr=1-1&keywords=vga+splitter

And a minidisplay to VGA cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C9U00E/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe you thought I was trying to do something more COMPLICATED? The only negative is the lost of PICTURE quality. But today I learned something about VGA distribution amplifiers. I think I'll try one of these next to see if picture quality is retained. I think I would need something like this. It has two inputs, so one can be for the Macbook and one for the PC: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-ST122VGAU-2-Port-Auto-Switch/dp/B0037FSWGY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1367283171&sr=8-7&keywords=vga+video+switchThinks for the feedback. I was SURE it would newer work.

So my computer of 4 years just started acting different at POST.

Motherboard = Biostar MCP6PB M2+ ( bought as a cheap combo package 4 years ago as seen here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138178 )
CPU = Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz AM3 95Watt ( running native clock 2.6Ghz... haven't overclocked YET )
RAM = Corsair DDR2 XMS2 800Mhz ( Matched Pair from MFR ) 2 X 2GB ( 4GB )
PSU = 460 Watt - Cooler Master ( Rated 4 of 5 stars ) *about 9 months old. This PSU replaced the prior 500watt that was more like a falsely labelled 300watt cheapo no name Golden Power that gave me issues shortly after upgrading from SEMPRON X2 2200 CPU to this Athlon II x4 620 quadcore with heavier power demands.
GPU = ATI Radeon HD5450 1GB DDR3 PCie 16x

Here are the 3 boot POST conditions.

Normal POST condition you get the splash screen of CPU info, RAM count, I/O port HDD info etc, and then the last line displayed is testing to see if there is a bootable CD or DVD and then it boots normal into Windows 7 Home Premium.

Odd POST condition #1 which has been happening for a long time and ignored it since system booted fine and ran fine was the following message on the last line.

Quote

AMD Data CHANGE ... Update New Data to DMI!  Update Success

AMD Athlon II x4 620 Processo......

....
You may also want to remove the board and inspect it from the bottom...

Cool Beans...let's see how long it stays stable...unless youre gonna keep clocking it til it fries...

~XFX Nvidia 8800GT Alpha Dog Edition 512MB
~Windows 7 (RECENTLY GOT the x64 edition)
~Intel Core2Duo 6600 2.4Ghz
~4GB RAM
Hi all,

my XFX used to work fine the past 6 years (long time), since I swapped my old SQUARE monitor (1280x1024) with a new 1680x1050 monitor. Since then I cant run anything (games) on settings higher than medium. Is it time for a goodbye (new card), or could it be something else?

When I run (eg) PES2011 at "High" settings, it works for 2-3 mins then I get a whopping crash (black screen -> computer still working) and after 1 min -> ARTIFACT sound.

*IT IS NOT A TEMPERATURE issue*
Any help is appreciated...Time for a new video card.

I'd retire that card into a lesser powerful computer if you want to play older games or at lower resolutions. I have had to back off on the resolution before to get better performance such as 1024x768 to get high settings and no problems with a 9800GTI'm suprised it had Win7 drivers.  nVidia is good at support even with *newer OS and legacy products, or *at least it is up until Windows 7 64-bit which is where my knowledge of their drivers end at for OS. I haven't had to support Windows 8 yet with nVidia drivers to state that they are good with Win 8. I have tested the series 4,5,6,7,8,9 nVidia products with Windows 7 32-bit and 64-bit through the various users I support who try to stretch the life of their video cards and systems, and have upgraded from Windows XP to Windows 7.

  The 8 Series 8800GT is KIND of old, but still enough GPU depending on application. And the 8 series covers the 8400GS and this 8800GT and there is a pretty noticable difference between the two GPUs in performance. But the fact that the user stated the crashes and artifacts, it REMINDS me of when my XFX 7600GT crapped out on me. But mine was the GPU fan stopped spinning and the GPU roasted. I removed the strand of hair that was holding the fan from moving and it worked again, and the video card then worked ok up until gaming at which it would crash when it warmed up even with fan cooling. So I had to throw it away    It lasted almost 6 years, so I definately got my moneys worth out of that video card. The good thing THOUGH is that there are many low cost video cards out there these days that perform better than the older cards, so even if your on a tight budget like myself, you can get by as long as the game etc doesnt require more than the GPU or system can handle. The Core 2 Duo 6600 2.4Ghz is an ok system which for the most part can still run many modern games paired up with a good video card. I upgraded my wife from a 1.8Ghz Core 2 Duo E4300 to this same 2.4Ghz Core 2 Duo E6600 when I got one cheap and her HP with ASUS motherboard supported it, and its not a bad Dual-Core CPU. She is also running Windows 7 64-bit and has a 9800GT installed which was my hand me down to her, since I always have the faster hardware..     It plays World of Warcraft 5.2, Aion, as well as a bunch of other online games pretty good. I set her video settings to medium to keep the 60fps vs 30fps of ultra settings. Setting her up with 1024x768 on the 19" flat screen also helped improve performance vs the higher res the display could be set to. Games like WoW have video display properties that can be easily customized for performance too.

The only thing I do have to do for her system is add more RAM at some point. I got the system for free dead with 1GB RAM, I fixed it, replaced Vista with Win 7 64-bit and added 2 X 512MB sticks and so she has 2GB RAM, but its a stick mixture 1 x 1GB & 2 x 512MB, so 3 of 4 RAM banks are stuffed and its running single-channel when it supports dual channel. At some point I will come across a free or cheap upgrade for her to get her to 4GB maybe. She is running 667Mhz DDR2.

[I'm new here]

Hello all,

     I have just built a new PC (parts ordered from Newegg.com) and after I had assembled it I ran into an issue. When I power on the PC it will run for about 30 seconds (with no beeps) then it will power off, then power back on to repeat with the same results. I DETACHED all extra components (HDD, optical, Front Panel Attachments, ect) to perform a POST and I get the same results. I have tried removing the RAM and although I do get a beep error for it, the system will still only run for about 30 seconds then power off and on again to repeat with the same failing results. I have tried using the PSU on another PC and it works without issue. I have reseated the CPU, I have 4 sticks of ram to work with (2x 2GB and 2x 4GB) and I have tried using each stick alone in each slot with no change. I have taken the Mobo and PSU out of the case and placed it on cardboard to test again, but still got the same results. I am out of ideas at this point (aside from returning the CPU and/or the Mobo). Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Thanks a bunch all!

P.S. I have attached an image with the parts I have currently connected.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]I wonder if the computer is SHUTTING off to prevent itself from overheating?

Did you attach a CPU cooler? How much thermal PASTE did you use?I had the same thought so I cleaned the CPU and heat sink then reapplied (just enough to get a thin layer ACROSS the entire CPU top. I actually work as a PC Tech for a small company and after talking with a few of the guys I think I might have a RAM issue. (which I forgot to post in the image) I believe the RAM I am using is ECC (server RAM) I'm going to try a different type today. I just don't know if that will explain the power loops or not. (won't know TILL I try)

Thanks for the response!!ECC RAM in a MBoard not designed for it will do this...Turns out it was the RAM. Thanks for the responses and I hope this helps others in the future.

will the age of hardware make your computer run more slowlyAnother pointless "poll"... Do you mean:

Will an old computer run the same programs more slowly than it did when it was new? Answer: No, probably.

Will an old computer run the same programs more slowly than a new computer with faster hardware? Answer: Yes, probably.

Will an old computer run some modern programs more slowly than a new computer with faster hardware? Answer: Yes, probably.





Quote

will the age of hardware make your computer run more slowly

*Hardware does not slow down on its own due to age unless components fail. The biggest thing that slows computers down is increased workload over time, mainly system updates, but also can be due to drive fragmentation etc as well as after about 9 months its always good to blow away a system install after backing up data and starting fresh again.

Fact: Electronic components do age. As to aging and speed, one needs to specify a case history that can be verified by objective measurements.

Hello
I have my computer connect to LCD TV  (cable vga - vga). WORKS well a few time but now my TV is turning off when i turn on the computer. I need some help please Only time I have seen this is when HDMI cable was connected also between computer and TV. HDMI CABLES can pass coded instructions to other devices and conflict similar to having 2 devices with 2 IR Remotes and the Menu button selection on a Blu-Ray player lets just state for example is  10110101  interpreted by TV as channel change etc.

 Haven't seen this yet with VGA, as for VGA has no ability to device communicate like HDMI has. VGA is just raw video output/input and sync on the signal if there is one to sync to.

Only other thought is that the computer is pulling too many amps through a shared power strip etc with other devices on the strip as well to run the power strip to its carrying capacity limit of watts and the TV then is receiving a quick dip in line power to it when the PC boots and that is dropping out the latch circuit that is used to keep the TV on. If this is the case adding a battery backup with TV and computer on the battery backup would quickly compensate for a quick AC power dip and the TV should remain on without powering off.

I have a 32" LCD TV in my livingroom with an older computer under it with wireless keyboard and mouse and I am using just the VGA to TV, so I can relax back in my recliner and game World of Warcraft with friends in luxury. I haven't had this power off issue with TV and computer turned on, but I also have a 750VA APC UPS battery backup keeping it all powere strong even if there is a short power outage. *Only complaint I have with my setup is that its hard reading the text on the screen from 8 feet away when gaming and no ability to increase the font size in the games that are hard coded to text size.

Alright, so something happened that I don't understand how, why, would happen. I will admit, it happened a few seconds after I popped my charger for my laptop in, in a room already using alot of power, but the effects were weird. So I have my Playstation running and my TV on, I got my laptop running with a game on it, and then I have my Desktop with my skype and internet going (I was watching a video on youtube).

All of a sudden about a minute or 2 after I plug in my laptop to charge, my PS3 turns off, as does my TV, my internet drops (Both my modem and router popped) and my monitor dropped. But the rest of the house had power, even my room still had power because my PC was still running the entire time. I checked my surge protectors, all is good. I turn on my TV, on HDMI source its got no signal (because my PS3 wasnt running) so it's ok. TV works, PS3 works. My desktop was the interesting part, it couldn't get a source signal for my monitor after that. No matter what I did. Finally I turned off my PC, and turned it back on. It had issues, seemingly, and did nothing just sat there, so I restarted again. This time it started, but it said I had crashed windows and asked if I WANTED to start windows in safe mode or normally. As it started, it WORKED but it was just really slow to BOOT up.

So I don't understand, why did only half of the power in my room crash, but like my PC was left on? And why did my monitor act up? My monitor still says it's got no signal for VGA but does for DVI?

I've never occured this kind of problem.Where they plugged into the same outlet?

It sounds like you tripped your breaker. I thought it was that, but my breaker popping is kinda semi-often and it wasn't like that. Someone elses theory is that we had a power drop that was short enough so like my PC basically crashed but came back before the power of it turned off.Simple power failures seldom CAUSE lasting damage.
You may have had a power failure unlike what you would expect.
A power surge. Some insurance companies will compensate you if  a certified power surge device was in sue.
If some components wee permanently damaged, you ought to  to contact your insurance company. They protect you from the odd things that happen.


Borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and SWAP it in overnite...

Hello,

Sorry if this is in the wrong place, as you can tell, I'm a newbie. Anyways, I'm having a bit of a problem with my HEADPHONES and speakers. It all started around a year ago. All of a sudden, my speakers stopped working, however, the headphones continued to work fine. Then, out of nowhere a few months later, my speakers magically began working again. Only problem is, my computer doesn't seem to recognize that I have headphones plugged in, so the speakers and headphones play sound at the same time. This is a major inconvenience because I like to listen to music and watch movies, but can't do so WITHOUT disturbing others anymore. There might be something lodged in the headphone jack, as the headphones don't seem to go all the way in, but it still goes in enough to play sound through them. I've tried disabling the speakers themselves, but it blocks the sound from the headphones too.

So basically what I'm asking is, is there some way I can 'fool' the computer into thinking I've got headphones plugged in so I don't have to run both at the same time? Or any other way to fix it that doesn't involve high-cost repairs? Any help here would be so greatly appreciated!

Thanks

EDIT: Forgot to mention, I'm using a Gateway NV79 laptop RUNNING on Windows 7. It's a little over a year old.The laptop has only one port used for both the Headphone and External Speakers. Have you tried those cheap EARPHONES for testing? Quote from: jason2074 on September 30, 2011, 10:31:20 PM

The laptop has only one port used for both the Headphone and External Speakers. Have you tried those cheap earphones for testing?

Walkman/Portable Compact disc or Stereo Earphones. Are the speakers you refer to the laptop speakers(built-in)?

Walkman/Portable Compact disc or Stereo Earphones

Hi,
So I'm not new to this site, just first time registering here type of new. One of my client's computers is driving me nuts on trying to track down the problem(s). Her computer was built 2-3 years ago from one of those newegg kits. It was having constant issues from day one. I found out there was a malfunction with the motherboard and got it replaced with the same model (still under warranty). The issues she was having were related to video (the onboard gpu was bad).
The new motherboard came in and was installed March 31. I have tested the memory, video, hard drive, PSU, anti-virus/anti-spyware/anti-malware before and after the motherboard replacement.
She is having constant issues with Firefox, other browsers, hangs and crashes.

Here are some of the issues she describes:
“Well I opened your email. Went to close IE since Firefox has been working so well today and the entire system crashed. The image looks like an old TV with static and frames skipping, blank sections (like old punch computer CARDS) and snap, crash”

“1. It hangs often in Firefox, but not consistently. Sometimes it will clear up if I reboot, but not consistently. It also hangs a bit in IE. It seems to be worse while on FB or trying to open/watch videos or you tube

2. It has crashed three time, out of the BLUE, TOTALLY. The screen looks like a static from an old TV, flickering up and down like old TV's used to when they were not aligned correctly. With holes in the picture like old computer punch cards ... sorry for all the "old" analogies, but I'm old. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. It's all working fine now”

My client sent me the following after showing the log file I have attached to a friend.
“At first, my gut said that this could be several different root issues
that are causing numerous (potentially overlapping) symptoms.

The symptom that seems most unusual to me is the "artifacts" on the
screen.  If you happen to have a second screen to swap with, I'm
curious if those symptoms go away.  It wouldn't do anything for the
stability (a.k.a. "crashing") issues, but maybe it would help the
display itself.

Its also possible that the graphics processing unit (GPU) is faulty or
the wrong driver is being used.  That could explain both the strange
visual effects and the stability issues.
This is from a friend

If the visual effects are taken out of the equation and I focus on the
others (going on the assumption that there are several root problems
at the same time), then I'd start by wanting to know the amount of RAM
and the version of Windows (too little RAM could explain slow
performance), the amount of unused hard drive space (too little could
cause slow performance for a number of reasons), what kind of CPU it
has (CPU is the "number cruncher" of the computer, so it can be a
bottleneck), and maybe even want to RUN some stress tests on the
hardware to see if anything is broken, e.g. memtest86+ to test for bad
RAM modules.”

Here is her computer log.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/42463633/ari's%20computer%20april%2013.txt

There aren't any crash dump LOGS being made either. I've used who crashed in the past on her machine but it's not blue screening.
Just thinking about this makes my head hurt. Any suggestions or insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Quote from: digitalchi on April 22, 2013, 04:47:57 PM

I have tested the memory, video, hard drive, PSU, anti-virus/anti-spyware/anti-malware before and after the motherboard replacement.

Hey all,

Just a question.  I'm trying to fix a computer and when switching on the system the POST does not finish.  The sound just goes BEEEEEEE constantly and the system does not boot up.  All the connections SEEM to be fine inside the computer on inspection and I was wondering what you think the most likely PROBLEM is.  The monitor does not display anything at all.

Thanks,
B2BEEEEEEE doesn't mean anything. Is it a high pitched beep or a buzzing sound or something else? If it's a constant beep, check to see if one of your keyboard keys is stuck.Things seem okay with the keyboard as none of the keys are stuck.

Thanks,
B2From Our Archives...What is make/model of computer?

Any history of what may have happened prior to this failure that may be helpful in diagnosing. ( * PEOPLE sometimes fail to share that the computer was dropped, child running through room clotheslined on laptop power cord, coffee spilled on keyboard and wiped dry, or dug it out of someones trash that morning and it rained the night prior. )  Lots of people laugh at this, but these details help. 

Guessing that the CMOS battery is good 3 VDC and BIOS has been reset.  RAM has been removed and REINSTALLED. ( sometimes its best to install only 1 stick to test for memory induced issues ) As well as all devices that are not crucial to POST have been disconnected such as Hard Drives, CD or DVD Roms, all add-on cards that are not necessary to boot and display of boot. Keyboard and mouse also removed from boot process when its a desktop computer. If its a laptop, you can open them and remove the ribbon cable carefully unlocking cable and SLIDING it out and booting without the laptop keyboard attached. Generally with laptops they will come up with keyboard errors, but if the BEEEEEEEEEEE goes away then you know its probably a bad keyboard on the laptop.

So we agree its DDR2 ? Quote from: dgreen on April 24, 2013, 02:16:38 PM

So we agree its DDR2 ?

It was a rhetorical question or didn't you realise that ?

Rhetorical means that you are asking but really do not want an answer. An example would be asking 'Is it raining again?', when it is clearly raining outside.

...
Would you recommend going with Crucial or can you suggest somewhere cheaper.
Would cheaper RAM perform less well?

Hey guys and gals, I've had my laptop for about 5-6 weeks. Its a Toshiba Qosmio X870  and I have never replaced the battery . The past 3 weeks or so the battery can only charge when the computer is off or in a low power state. If its on and plugged in it will still LOSE its charge unless its already at 100%. On a full charge without being plugged in it only holds its charge for about 1 hour on "power saver". This makes it extremely hard to use it as a portable device so i'm trying to find a way to troubleshoot the problem without having to buy a new battery or laptop. Unfortunately I need it for the next few MONTHS in some of my classes so its kind of urgent.Thanks for your help!Have you look up into the warranty period/policy if its still RETURNABLE?I'd also go the warranty route. Sounds like the power demands are greater than the power supply can keep up with or there is a problem internally to the laptop that is acting like an amperage bottleneck in the charging circuit. This could be a wrong value component mfg defect or defective component.

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to connect my DVI-D single link LED monitor to my lenovo laptop, which uses a VGA. I couldn't find any m/m DVI-D to VGA, so I'm curious if there is another way I can hook up my monitor to my laptop?

THEE are adapters available. There are two types.
1. Passive CONNECTORS make a connection if possible.
2. Active adapters amplify and  convert SIGNALS to common forms.

Some of these can be very expensive
 Sorry, I can not make a recommendation.

Amazon claims to have connectors to do that, but you have to check to see if what they have is really what you want.
Can you point out a photo of the connector you need?

I couldn't find any off amazon that are DVI-D single to VGA m/m. Here are a few pictures, one of my laptop and the other of the CURRENT adapter that I have:

HTTP://imageshack.us/a/img593/4357/dviao.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img5/3883/vgal.jpg


As you can see above, the adapter I have does not fit into my laptop

If I UPGRADE my cpu  from intel E5200 (800 Mhz fsb) to intel E8400 (1333 Mhz fsb) will the 8400 still function, and just adjust to the mobo bus SPEED of 8oo Mhz, or will it not run at all? Mobo is GATEWAY DX4720 with 800 Mhz buss speed. Or should I stick with a cpu with 800 fsb? Which MBoard are we talking about here ? ?
Quote from: patio on May 12, 2013, 06:50:09 AM

Which MBoard are we talking about here ? ?

Mobo is Gateway DX4720

Hi all, thanks for reading this.  I live without short term-memory, so I don't know what day it is or what clothes I'm wearing or what I've eaten today.  Yes, both my verbal and visual memory for new info is pretty much null.  I went through vocational rehab after the encephalitis, and I can live independently and hold a job thanks to utilizing virtual memory.  Work is fine, as I keep electronic notes for everything.  As for home, keeping hard copies of everything made sense at first, but it's been several years since I lost my memory, and the papers are piling up.  It's leading to clutter, and if I need to "remember" something, I have to thumb through tons of papers in the filing cabinet.  Because of this, I need to find a good sheet-fed scanner, and I also need software that can allow me to initiate the scan of a document, prompt me for the next page once the previous one completes, and save the scan to a text-searchable PDF.  The PDF would show the actual scan image, and when I search for something in the PDF, the text embedded within it from the OCR would be queried.  I hope this makes sense; I literally don't remember what I've typed so far in this message, even though I've read it a few times.  Does anyone here have any suggestions for what I'm looking for?  If I've posted this in the wrong forum, I apologize, and if you know of the proper one to post this in, please let me know.  Thanks so much!

Joe
Cortical Dysplasia of the left medial temporal lobe in '75, encephalitis in the RMTL in '05For others who want to follow this thread, the following is a simple introduction.
http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/003257.htm
OCR of hand written notes is terrible. Very, very bad.
Sad to say, the market for OCR HANDWRITTEN conversion is bald.
http://discussion.evernote.com/topic/26195-why-no-ocr-search-on-handwritten-notes/

How are your reading skills? Can you read your own writing out load?

May I respectfully recommend you use the Windows 7 Speech recognition program.
Dictate every hand written  note into a document, include keywords at the top. Give it any FILE name that might make sense. Don't worry. Almost any name not already used. Windows can locate files by content. Slow, but nit works well of DOC and TXT files anywhere in the computer. But is better if you keep the files in folders other than  program folders.

Later, The windows indexing feature can locate files with  words you can remember.

I am,  perhaps, not as forgetful as you. I rel a lot on the Windows search  to find documents that contain information I need later.

My personal experience with OCR is bad. I hate OCR. Sometimes I must use it, but only on printed documents.
YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3VZnyKViC4

I hope this helps.
Thanks Geek-9pm for the reply.  The speech recognition you mentioned (whether with the OS or third party) will be good for handwritten notes.  It hadn't crossed my mind, and it's good advice that I'll give a try.  As for the OCR for things such as old bills, typed letters from the doctors, ETC, I'm leaning TOWARD ABBYY FineReader 11.  It's not exactly pocket change, but for the time and frustration it could save me today and in the upcoming years, I think it would be worth the $170.  I've utilized the trial period, and the OCR is actually quite good.  It had very little difficulty distinguishing between 1's and l's.  As for the scanner, I'll be sticking with my single-sheet CanoScan Lide 25 for a while, but one that sounds promising for the future is the Brother DSmobile 600.  It's a sheet-fed scanner, so it could help speed up the conversion process.  Thanks again!Here is my best recommendation.
For reasons that go way beyond what I can explain in a short note, buying OCR software is a poor investment.
OCR is best when it is bundled with a scanner or printer product. The cost of the OCR is distributed over the total cost of the print er er or scamper.

For under $200 you can get a very good all in one printer that has excellent OCR software. I think other members here will agree. That is the best best way  get top quality OCR and the best price.
CNET claims there is free stuff out there that works good.
http://download.cnet.com/FreeOCR/3000-10743_4-10717191.html

Some say HP is the best choice. Somewhere I saw this:
Quote

Chances are, you've already got OCR software - if you have office, then Microsoft Office Document Imaging comes with it under All Programs --> Microsoft Office --> Office tools.

Specs:
Windows 7 64-bit
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3
Intel Core i5 2500K
Kingston HyperX 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3-1600 Kit CL9
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 32MB 7200rpm SATAII
EVGA nVidia GeForce GTX460 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E
Seasonic S12II Bronze 520W 80Plus Power Supply
Dell U2312 monitor

I've been having an issue with my computer where it will shut down without warning and then reboot. There is no BSOD when this happens. It happens very sporadically as well. Typically it shuts down when I play a game (Dota 2 in general) but sometimes it'll do its first crash when it's idling. It generally tends to shut down the first time when I'm gaming and then it'll HAPPEN a few more times. But for the few days preceding this I've been playing Dota 2 and it has not shut down. I have checked the capacitors on the mobo and they all seem fine. I have memtested the RAM and no errors were found. I have also changed power OUTLETS as I thought that might've been the culprit. I've formatted and reinstalled Windows 7. I've monitored TEMPS and they are all perfectly fine both idle and under load. This computer is about 2 years old and I've never had this problem occur before. It's been happening for at least a couple of weeks.

I did discover that there seems to be an issue with the mobo coming into contact with the case. Initially, when I put pressue on top and back of the case it'd cause the comp to shut down. I removed the side panels and found that pressuring the top did nothing. So I poked ever so slightly at the piece of metal the mobo is mounted to and found that pressuring a CERTAIN area a little caused the comp to shut down. My guess is that the side panel which covers the bottom of the mobo is too tight and when the top is pressured whilst it is attached it must push the mobo into contact with the case. I'm certain I haven't been inadvertently pressuring the side when these shutdowns take place so I assume that this isn't the cause. And they seem to begin when I play Dota 2 (there doesn't seem to be any consistency in terms of how long I'll be playing for before it shuts down. I can play entire games and it's fine but then sometimes it'll consistently crash during 1 game).

Also, just today when it has shutdown it has not rebooted instantly as it was before. Instead 30 seconds or more go by and then it boots.

Does anyone have any idea what the trouble could be? It seems like it has to be a mobo or PSU issue. The fact that it crashes more when under load leads me to believe it is PSU but I am just guessing here.

Any tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated! Quote

The fact that it crashes more when under load leads me to believe it is PSU but I am just guessing here.

Send it back for replacement...
If the person with great skills buggers it you've voided any Warranty.

Depends on Brand, Features, and merchant selling its MARKUP. I buy my hardware through www.newegg.com and a 500watt PSU for this build would be like this one listed for an example of a price tag that I'd pay:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027&Tpk=corsair%20500%20watt%20builder%20series&IsVirtualParent=1

This PSU is offered with free shipping, $10 off at time of purchase + $20 off rebate so that in the end you end up with a HIGH end power supply at the bargain of $40. Not sure if free shipping is only within the USA though, but this is an example of a brand and deal that I would take advantage of if I needed a 500 watt PSU.

I like the Corsair Brand, as well as the fact that its rated 4 of 5 eggs (stars) for 360 people leaving feedback responses. And getting this $70 PSU for $40 is a good deal

*Actually finding this deal, i almost want to buy one to keep on hand as a spare. I have 1 system running an old power supply that came out of a Pentium 4 DELL tower, and DELL is one of those hit or miss computer brands for quality amd performance. For example I have seen so many troubled DELL brand computers in my time generally due to component failures, but yet I have a DELL Inspiron 4000 laptop running a Pentium III CPU that wont die  Right, okay I did some research on their computers with psus included, but I didn't find much. I found these two cases, but they only included a 400W, so I was wondering if that was enough.
Links:
http://www.gigantedirect.com/aopen-m602.html
http://www.gigantedirect.com/aopen-m601.html

I found some singular power supplies, but I couldn't find many for cheap. Here are the psus I found

http://www.gigantedirect.com/antec-hcg-520.html
520w £62

http://www.gigantedirect.com/lc-power-lc420h-12-v1-3.html
420 £30

http://www.gigantedirect.com/ocz-corexstream-500w.html
500w £35

Which do you think I should go for?OCZ is a good company. They make good products. I'd go with this PSU http://www.gigantedirect.com/ocz-corexstream-500w.html

When it comes to cases, not much can go wrong with them as long as they have all features needed and the size for the installed guts to fit. I have heard of AOPEN before, but haven't bought any of their products to know of their quality as to if its good or junk. Not much can go wrong with a metal case and plastic, although I did order a Rosewill case on the cheap about 5 months ago and the feedback was full of complaints of the plastic face of the tower received with snapped off plastic stand offs that are use to lock the plastic face to the steel chasis. Since I GOT the case for like $14 on the cheap, I just used black electrical tape to affix the plastic face that was also black to the painted black steel chasis by bonding both parts at the seam all the way around the front face. Now its firmly attached until the gum on the electrical tape gets too gooey or dries up in 5 years or so. Then i just apply new electrical tape or toss the case away.OMG we're nearly done! Okay, so here are some final working outs:

Final computer parts needed:
PSU: http://www.gigantedirect.com/ocz-corexstream-500w.html
 £34.78

Graphics card: http://www.gigantedirect.com/components-76/graphics-cards/msi-ati-radeon-hd-6570-2gb.html
£54.28

Case: http://www.gigantedirect.com/components-76/chassis-components/computer-cases/cooler-master-k280.html
£32.67

Total price: £121.73

Can you just check for me that they are all compatible? Thanks so much manOh yeah, I'm sure it does cause it looks like t does, but does this case (http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/case/mid-tower/k280.html) come with slots for like those trays where you put your CDs, DVDs, games etc in, like a disk tray?Its a good match for that hardware you linked. Plenty of room. Space for up to 3 DVD Roms etc or 2 DVD roms and add a flash card reader into a 5.25" slot etc if needed later.

Attached is a side shot with cover open to show all the room and it displays that there will be no shortage for room for what you need it for. You also should have plenty of length in the power supply cables to snake them through the cut outs and pop them back out where the optical drive(s), and hard drive(s) are etc and have it really slick and organized inside with this case.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]

hi everyone... i just recently reformatted my laptop....the problem is after its done reformatting..i cant use some keyboard functions anymore..like F2 and F3 for adjusting brightness, F 9 and F10 for the volume control...ive tried using FN + f3 but nothing works and so on.... i already tried also Enable the Function keys in the BIOS but nothing works....

Heres my LAPTOP Model and SPECs:

HP Pavilion m7-1078ca

Procesor: Intel (R) Core (TM)I7-3610QM CPU 2.30GHZ

Memory: 8gb

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP1

tnx
After reformatting did you install all appropriate drivers, including the chipset DRIVER? Open Device Manager - any yellow or red symbols? All drivers should be obtained from the website of your laptop manufacturer.yes all is done.. i install all the required drivers already in the website of hp into my laptop with exact model....but still nothing happens
Okay. You say "some" function keys don't work. Does that mean that some do work?

See if anything here helps: http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Other-Notebook-PC-Questions/HP-Pavilion-g6-1318ax-Fn-Key-is-not-working-on-Windows-7/td-p/2422177 yes some are working like the F5(backlit key) even without pressing Fn,the only problem is F2 and f3 the adjust brightness and f9 and f10 the beats audio volume control I assume they worked before the reformat? If so, then I'm at a loss. Let's wait and see if anyone else has some ideas.How did you go about REINSTALLING your OS?  Did you use the recovery partition on the hard drive to restore the system to its original configuration?  Quote from: soybean on MAY 08, 2013, 08:34:13 AM

How did you go about reinstalling your OS?  Did you use the recovery partition on the hard drive to restore the system to its original configuration? 

I cannot boot my laptop because one of the keys are broken so it keeps on pressing itself, and the laptop will not boot if a key is held down. It just PLAYS an incessant high-pitched tone until you let go of the key, but I can't because it's the keyboard itself.
I need to somehow disable the INTERNAL keyboard so I can boot it.

I'm using an Acer Aspire 5336-2281.No, you have no no easy way to doable it. Open the case and unplug the keyboard. Also, find the stuck key and fix it or remove it.Also to note that some laptops require internal keyboard present to boot, otherwise it hangs at the keyboard error even if a USB keyboard is plugged in, because the USB Keyboard is not active until the system is told to skip this error. Some BIOS's have an option which you can CHANGE the system not to hang on keyboard error, but still you need to be able to make changes without a key being stuck down which will likely interfere and this option is mainly for desktops so that they would boot with no mouse and keyboard attached if used as a server etc where no keyboard has to be attached. If this laptop had a PS2 PORT, you would have instant keyboard access without the internal keyboard CONNECTED, but very few laptops these days have PS2 ports available.

A coworker gave me her computer to work on (She let her kids play with it ). I turned it on and it cannot find it's C:\ drive.I have a repair DISK and a windows 8 disk that I have tried. I can't SEE any physical damage to the machine. I can run the CD- ROM and can find the RAM. I think (don't know) that her 3 year old figured out how to format the C drive. However, there are no PARTITIONS, data, or any of the other wonderful "mental guts" registering that can normally be found on a hard drive.What CDRom DISCS do you have in your arsenal ? ?
DLoad and burn a Hiren's boot CD .iso...it has many tools on it.
To burn an .iso properly i suggest IMGBurn...also Free.
This will create a bootable CD with Utilities you can use to check the status of the HDD and it's contents.

1st Utility to run would be the HDD manuf. diagnostics...let it run to completion.
Then use Total Commander from the file system tool section...it's a DOS based interface but it'll show you what data ...if any is left one the HDD...

Best of Luck.Hi

I have just watched this U tube video and what do I see but the laptop as a Toshiba hard drive. Oh dear we have a lot of these drives stop dead , no motor spin. It is fixable but only to get the data back but not for further use. If there is no data that is important on the drive you will need to replace it . And reload windows. SORRY

Lisa_maree
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9jevlInqrULet's wait and see if there is data on it from above before we declare the HDD "dead"...
It was stated that there had been kids playing on it.

im very inexperienced on computers, so bare with me! IVE also guessed the area to put this, so please move it if you feel it is better suited elsewhere

basically my old laptop GAVE up a couple of months ago due t a problem with the circuitboard. however this old laptop had a few hundred songs on it, which are currently on my ipod. is their anyway I can still get this music off the old harddrive or my ipod onto my new computer?

thanks 



Yes...
You can remove the laptop HDD and do one of the following:
Most cost effective get a 2.5" laptop to IDE converter...about 8 Bucks and hook it up to a working PC as a slave drive and retrieve all the data.

                   

Or you can buy an external HDD enclosure and install it in there and do the same thing...approx 25 Bucks.
However if you decide to go the 2nd route i wouldn't get a 25$ one as your investing in it...get one that has an external power adapter cause you will be using it down the road and look at UNITS that accomodate more than 1 style of HDD.

My favorite unit is made by EAGLE...takes 4 styles of HDD's...is powered and also has a cooling fan...about 65Bucks.Spammer.Hi

If you load Itunes on your new computer and then connect the ipod.  You will be able to synchronise the the music from the ipod to the new computer like this from http://support.apple.com/kb/hT1329. In the section labled "Copy music to new computer"


Quote from: SALMON Trout on May 10, 2013, 12:56:38 PM

Spammer.

   ? ?

Not sure if this is the right place to post this but what the *censored*. So I've been given a desktop for free because it's broken, I was initially going to just take the hard drive and bin it but it seems to turn on fine (no error beeps on start up). The problem is I'm not great at this sort of thing and I don't really know what's wrong with it, so here's a run down of what's going on:

The monitor gets no signal from the tower (the monitor works)

The keyboard and mouse get nothing EITHER (no lights etc.)

I also can't turn the tower off with the power button

However the usb ports seem to work and as I said it turns on fine. I'm really tempted to just stick with the original plan and get rid, but if it's not that difficult to fix (or at least figure out what's going wrong) I'd rather do that and have a free desktop obviously. Any ideas what I can do next/what the issue might be?First thing I would try is to remove the power, remove the CMOS battery, let it sit for 30 minutes, replace the battery and try it again.  This will reset the CMOS settings.  Also, check the power connections to the motherboard, specifically the 20 or 24 pin main connector and the 4 or 8 pin supplementary power connector.
If that doesn't help, check how much RAM is in there, and if it has more than one stick, try them one at a time.
If it still does the same thing, check if it has a video card, if it does and it also has onboard graphics, try removing the video card.
Finally, unplug everything that isn't necessary for it to POST, for example front PANEL USB connectors, HDDs, and any other expansion cards, and see what happens.The other thing is since you inherited it even though it's a desktop they are sometimes not as rugged as you think...moving and transport who knows what could be jarred...
Remove a side panel and remove and re-seat the RAM, vid card if applicable and any other PCI cards in the system and re-seat them...
While in there do the housekeeping and a good dusting with a can of compressed air...
Re-assemble everything... powerup...and BEST of Luck.

I had some Cadbury chocolate tonight while browsing on the web, and it melted  . I managed to get most of the liquid out using a small painting brush but since I did it upside down, it moved downwards and got pass the vent and is inside the vent. How do I get the chocolate removed? I don't have a screwdriver to open the case so that is gone. What do I do? It is near the motherboard.And I am using a TOSHIBA Satellite L745DIts best if you can safely open the laptop to remove the melted chocolate, however you may be ABLE to avoid this since chocolate under heated conditions will eventually dry out and the brown chocolate will turn white tinted and become a chalky dry form, the airflow of the system will blow any dry chocolate out.

However if any chocolate made its way to electronic parts or the fan, it could cause problems later on. But if you dont feel comfortable opening the laptop to remove it, it is a gamble depending on how much melted inside.

I had a user at my last job whos desk was a mess and he had a similar issue with chocolate melting and getting into his laptop. Somehow he got melted chocolate also into the side vent of the laptop. I could have removed the chocolate by dissassembling the laptop and removing the heatsink ETC and placing the heatsink into a pot of boiling water to remove etc, then dry it and then apply new thermal compound etc, but I decided to leave it be since the FLOW of hot air is outwards and gravity is down and the motherboard is to the right of the heatsink that is located on the left side of the laptop. In a matter of a few months, it got dry and chalky and most of it blew out on its own. The rest of it I was able to jab a wooden tooth pick into and it was very brittle and came out with the AID of the airflow out the side vent.It's been 5 days...it should be taken to a shop and properly dis-assambled cleaned and re-assembled.

When COMPARING two chips for a potential upgrade)( the pentium d 820 and the d945 ) I see that the only difference  in the specs that could possibly affect compatability is LABELED lithography  -- the 820 is 90 nm and the 945 is 65 nm. What does this mean, and would it affect whether or not a particular mobo could handle the faster chip? Thanks for any help!The nm is the process the CPU was created on - generally the lower the newer and the less power it will DRAW for a given speed, and thus should also run cooler. This is not comparable across different CPUs however, just like clock speed.
What board do you have?Nanometers...
The smaller the # the more TRANSISTORS can be crammed onto the chip...

I I have an old gx620 ultra small form factor that I'd like to upgrade because it fits PERFECTLY where it is and I haven't found any more modern unit that does. It has a pentium d820-2.8 ghz,800 mhz and I would like to go to a core 2 duo (e5200-e5800) if possible. I know it would FIT physically but would this mobo support it? I have a GATEWAY that can run both chips but I don't have a clue about the dell. I know it should run COOLER, and that should quiet it down- the fan runs hard and loud when it has to start working. If no on the e series then how high can I go on the pentium d series chips? I know the d945 would be a good bit quicker, but again, will this mobo support it? Thanx for any info you may have.I don't believe the Core 2 Duo chips are officially supported, though if you updated the BIOS to the latest it may work with the older Core 2 Duos such as the E6300 and E6600 Conroe CPUs.  The chipset should support them but Dell sometimes locks down CPU support in the BIOS.
The Pentium D chips aren't worth the money to upgrade to, they're all very slow compared to CPUs released in the last 6 YEARS or so unfortunately, so I wouldn't recommend spending money to upgrade to the 945.

I have an old 2006 windows xp sp3 Compaq Presario intel Celeron "d" chip w/2gb of RAM. I use 2009 123 copy dvd & it will transcode & burn a dvd on avg. 15-20 mins.  I just bought a 2012, made year. HP PAVILION windows 8 AMD vision A10 5700 chipset w/ 24GB of RAM. This machine takes 40-60 mins to transcode & burn a DVD. This machine should blow away my old machine, BTW nothing is running in the background. Help Please!!!I see on there website there is an update to your program, Initial release: 10.0.0.29 - Released 07/13/2012 if your program is 10.0.0.29 or later. The version you have was optimised for the 32 bit version of windows and that processor family. So therefore runs really fast. There is 2 options either a program upgrade there is a free trial you could test the speed with or to run your copy in a Virtual machine. If you have not set up a virtual machine can take sometime. Also if your windows doesn't have virtual machine support (built in) this would need to be purchased. That costs more than a REPLACEMENT copy of the program.

   
Lisamaree
Without exact file sizes and exact burn speeds with the same app there is no way to tell what is happening...Latest 2013 123 copy dvd is installed on new machine. but continues to run slow for some reason. Like before, nothing major running in background. Annnnny other possibilities? Now Desperate!
Also,   just the transcoding times are ridiculous!  2005 yr. Celeron w/ 2gb of ram  to transcode in 15-20 mins. vs 2012 AMD A10-5700 chip 40-60 mins with 24 gb of ram??? Hmmmm....Lots of things affect how long it takes to rip a DVD. To get meaningful information it is necessary to compare like with like! 

Is the same DVD being used on each machine?

Is the same transcoding program being used on both machines? The same codec? The same audio settings? With the same final video quality settings? For example, the one that seems "faster" could be doing a plain-vanilla one pass encode at a lower bitrate and PCM audio and the one that seems "slower" might be making a creditable job of a multipass higher bitrate encode with a bunch of filters enabled and mp3 audio.

I use Handbrake for this task and I can use among others, these filters: De-telecine, Decomb, Deinterlace, Denoise and Deblock and they can drastically increase encoding time compared to a plain ordinary "good enough for my TV and eyesight" encode. Also there are a whole bunch of settings in an "Advanced" SECTION I haven't even touched.

Once you know the same job is being done on both machines, if you still have a speed anomaly I would think about the drives used. If both machines have separate reading and writing drives, check speed settings and disk compatibility and see how fast the burn drives are running.

The newer read drive could have Riplock in the firmware which slows the data transfer rate when reading DVD-Video data - usually a drive capable of 8x or 16x read speeds would drop to 2x or 4x. It does not prevent ripping however, just makes it less convenient. In some cases, firmware flashing is all that is needed to remove this feature from a DVD Drive. On some models pressing the eject button a certain way for a certain time cuts out Riplock. Ripping forums are full of - often quite specific- information about this sort of thing. Makers say it is to make machines run quiet, but some allege it is an MPAA initiative. Even if the slow machine's drive doesn't have Riplock, there may be settings in the encoding program that are limiting the read speed to keep the job quiet.

One way to isolate the problem would be to first rip the same DVD to a VIDEO_TS folder on the hard drive of each PC and then use these as input for identical encode tasks, output being to hard drive folders. That way you are comparing computing performance and cutting out the optical drives.

Quote from: jvc321 on May 11, 2013, 06:01:57 PM

Now Desperate!

I have an old 2006 windows xp sp3 Compaq Presario intel Celeron "d" chip w/2gb of RAM. I use 2009 123 copy dvd & it will transcode & burn a dvd on avg. 15-20 mins.  I just bought a 2012, made year. HP Pavilion windows 8 AMD vision A10 5700 chipset w/ 24GB of RAM. This machine takes 40-60 mins to transcode & burn a DVD. This machine should blow away my old machine, BTW nothing is running in the background. Help Please!!!

http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287

Make sure you select the tool which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso type, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "Write image file to disc" option), to make the CD bootable.
For Toshiba drives, see here: http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=ServicesSupport/FujitsuDrivesUSandCanada/SoftwareUtilities#diagnostic

I have a 4TB seagate that I removed from my NAS enclosure and installed in my USB enclosure due to some default limitations that are not user changeable on with the NAS enclosure. Unfortunatly, when I plug it into my computer,  the usual "Need to Format Drive" pops up but only allows me to format as 4 seperate drives. Is there any software that will allow me to recognize it as 1 drive?

Yhanks
JohnWhat OS and version? OS matters!

Also surprised you degraded that 4TB of storage from NAS to just a regular external drive. Most people buy NAS for its purpose of data access from multiple computers like a file server and NAS come at a cost $100 + above that of normal external drives depending on make/model and features.Knew I forgetting somesting.
Vista Home Premium SP2  32 Bithttp://support.microsoft.com/kb/2581408

Check out this article. It use to be a 2TB limit due to 32-bit OS, but it appears that you can access it all with GPT Partition with 32-bit non-bootable config.

If you ever want this 4TB to be a single partition for a bootable internal installation, you would need a 64-bit OS. But the GPT vs the traditional MBR will allow for 4TB with 32-bit according to MS. My largest drive is 1.5TB, so I haven't had to play with this GPT partitioning yet.What would i need to use as 1 4tb drive?Need to partition the drive as GPT Partitioning scheme to have single partition ( 1 drive ).


Quote

The 2TB barrier is the very manifestation of this 32-bit limitation. Since the maximum number which is able to be represented using 32-bits is 4,294,967,295, this translates to 2.199TB of capacity using 512-byte sectors, or approximately 2.2TB. As a result, capacity beyond 2.2TB is not addressable using the MBR partitioning scheme.

In order for more bits to be available for addressing, the device will instead need to be initialized with the GPT (GUID Partition Table) partition scheme which allows for up to 64-bits of logical sectors, which translates to a theoretical limitation of 9.4ZB (9.4 zetta bytes, or 9.4 billion terabytes). However, the issue with GPT is that most currently available systems are based on the aging BIOS platform which only supports booting from MBR initialized disks. In order to boot from a device initialized with the GPT partitioning scheme, your system will need to be UEFI capable. There are many systems today which ship with the capability of supporting UEFI, and Microsoft expects that most future systems will be shipping with this support. Customers should consult with their system vendor to determine support for UEFI and disks with capacities greater than 2TB.



Overall Requirements for Non-Bootable Data Volume

In order for a system to address the maximum capacity of a storage device with capacity greater than 2TB, the following requirements apply:

-          Disk initialized with the GPT Partitioning Scheme

-          Windows Version (all SKUs, either 32-bit or 64-bit):

o   Windows Vista
o   Windows 7

o   Windows Server 2008

o   Windows Server 2008 R2 (only 64 bit version available)

hello, i have a Fujitsu Lifebook T730
and i mistakenly lost my stylus the other day, and before i jump the GUN and buy a random stylus,
i was WONDERING can i use a different stylus with this COMPUTER other then a Fujitsu brand stylus? preferably a stylus with pressure sensitivity.
(if you need to know any other INFORMATION about the computer, let me know)

thank you all for the help and have a nice day.No, if you want then original performance, you have to buy a stylus made for that device. A pair of replacements for that particular model goes for about $50 if you shop around.
What I  m men to say is that nit does not have to be the exact original, but one designed and sold as a replacement for models in that group.

The stylus is not just a pointed stick., It has seamail properties that make it work well will certain models of touch screen.

But there are those who claim  that you can make your won anyway.

Turn a Cheap Pen into a Touchscreen Stylus
Watch the video and tell me if you believe it.

So basically I have been looking every to try and get this fixed and before it wasn't a big problem but now I can't even start my computer without a ps/2 keyboard which is really weird. My problem is when the computer starts it shows the normal bios SCREEN but then it goes to a black page that says "can't find any device" and if I am using my new usb keyboard it GETS frozen there with my old usb keyboard it wouldn't freeze, If I connect my new keyboard into ps/2 it boots fine. This is the screen I am talking about getting stuck on


I really need a fix for this I am tired of hooking my keyboard up to ps/2 every time i want to turn on my computer. Also my ps/2 port has a couple bent pins and only works if the connecter is bent the right way so its a hassle to keep in ps/2.Replace the CMOS battery...Part # CR 2032....
Available anywhere including WallyWorld.

Do this with ALL power removed from the system.so just BUY these http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1368563841&sr=8-5&keywords=cmos+battery?You only need 1 battery and they usually last 5 years or longer. You can PICK these 2032 batteries up just about anywhere, they are used in many different electronic devices, desktop computers, remotes, calculators, older LCD organizers, and some christmas decorations that are battery operated. Pretty much all stores that sell batteries with an electronics department or a photo department would have these, as WELL as some drug stores have these mixed in with the hearing aid battery rack, even though I have yet to see a hearing aid take one of these large batteries. There is even a family dollar out by me that sells a 2 pack of these for $1. I picked up a pack of 2 and probably would never need to use them.

No need to buy 5 of these!ok thanks for the reply I will get them and let you know how it goes.

my computer doesn't turn on, the power BUTTON flashes tho. there's a LITTLE BLACK chip on the motherboard that was accidentally inserted backwards recently and is located by the pci headers. what is that removable 8-pin chip for and where can i get another ONE?What MBoard is this ? ?

Not SURE if I should post this in the software or hardware problems, so I took a guess. lol.

Anyway, This morning, I dropped a LAPTOP. About 2 feet onto a concrete floor.  Now when I try to start it up, the light with the lightening bolt over it blinks three times and nothing happens. I have tried holding the power button for 30 seconds, but still nothing.

Any ideas on what happened when I dropped it?

All I know about the laptop is:
HP G61
Windows 7Hi,

I suspect that some connectors or hardware parts have been misaligned.http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01732674&cc=ad&dlc=en&lc=en&jumpid=reg_r1002_usen

I suspect the main board or battery damaged, or battery connection with laptop is damaged from the fall. Remove the battery and look for damage to it. If no damage FOUND, this laptop will probably have to go in for servicing especially if the laptop is powered off an outlet and still showing this problem. ( One last step would be to remove the battery and power the laptop off of the outlet without battery and see if it will boot or still flash the code ) *If powered off the wall its completely dead without flash CODES, then the charging circuit is LIKELY damaged on the main board and the battery is too weak to boot the computer and unable to take a charge due to a cracked trace in the circuit board etc.

 At this website, it refers to this problem as:

Quote

Insufficient charge on the batteryIf the battery light LED (which looks like a lightning bolt  ) flashes, the battery has insufficient charge to start the computer. To resolve this error, try the following solutions.

I have been looking at the ASUS N53SM-ES72.I will bw playing Garry's Mod,ArmaC C.O(Dayz)Diabo3,Counter Strike Global Offensive etc.If anyone knows of any better suggestions around that price range that would be great. Good morning batlon13

That looks really nice here is another option for you. Below will be the specs and here is the LINK for it https://www.shopping.hp.com/webapp/shopping/cart_detail.do?pageLink=true&bvLoadCart=1&action=add&disp_msg=0

HP Pavilion dv4t-5100 Entertainment Notebook PC
HP Pavilion dv4t-5100 Entertainment Notebook PC

A9Q35AV
 

    black licorice
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
    System Recovery DVD with Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
    3rd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3612QM (2.1 GHz, 6MB L3 Cache)
    8GB DDR3 System Memory (2 Dimm)
    NVIDIA(R) GeForce(R) GT 650M Graphics with 2GB GDDR 5 video memory
    750GB 7200RPM Hard Drive
    NO mSSD Hard Drive Acceleration Cache
    No additional security software
    6 Cell LITHIUM Ion Battery
    14.0" diagonal High Definition HP BrightView LED Display (1366 x 768) SVA
    Microsoft(R) Office Starter: reduced-functionality Word/Excel(R) only, No PowerPoint(R)/Outlook(R)
    Blu-ray player & SuperMulti DVD burner
    Webcam with Integrated Digital Microphone
    Intel 802.11b/g/n WLAN and Bluetooth(R)
    Standard Keyboard Black

Estimated ship date: September 17, 2012

This ships free Free standard shipping on this item

The HP Home & Home Office Store will accept RETURNS or exchanges for this product up to 21 days after
Qty.       Update »
Price:    $1,358.99    
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HP 2 year Accidental Damage Protection w/3-day Onsite Response for 1-year warranty Pavilion Notebook

UN010A

This ships free Free standard shipping on this item

The HP Home & Home Office Store will accept returns or exchanges for this product up to 21 days after DELIVERY

« Save for re-order

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Price:    $229.99    
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I have one of the brothers to this series DV7T and I love it for Doom3 / Halo etc

Hope this helps, Mike http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y580-Laptop-Computer/dp/B0089M34R2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346995864&sr=1-1&keywords=lenovo+y580+20994hu 1,099 plus has a 32gb ssd with 1tb hard drive Quote from: hartbeatmr on September 06, 2012, 06:48:51 AM

Good morning batlon13

That looks really nice here is another option for you. Below will be the specs and here is the link for it https://www.shopping.hp.com/webapp/shopping/cart_detail.do?pageLink=true&bvLoadCart=1&action=add&disp_msg=0

HP Pavilion dv4t-5100 Entertainment Notebook PC
HP Pavilion dv4t-5100 Entertainment Notebook PC

Thanks for response me and try to help me.but i need a another laptop.I want to buy a Asus laptop.so give me any Asus company's laptop details. never mind please.

It was probably lightning that got the ethernet.  I added a PCI NIC card.
I tried 2 different new 500 & 600W power supplies, both have plenty of 12VDC power.  Boot loop is not consistent; sometimes it will loop 5-6 times before POST & sometimes not at all, but it always does POST.  If it takes 2 or more loops, OC will revert to 200MHz bus speed.  It also sometimes takes a very long time to come out of Sleep, LONGER than a normal boot.  Don't want to spend $100 on a 3rd psu, just to try it.  I suspect the real problem is a mobo voltage regulator, maybe also damaged by lightning.I suppose as long as once it boots its stable no sense spending any money!

I had a 386sx 40Mhz mini motherboard a long time ago that I stuffed into an old 286 Dell case and the PSU required me to flip it on and wait at black screen and then flip it off and back on quick on the right side red power switch to get it to boot. Once booted the system ran fine. The original motherboard was a 286 8Mhz in a large motherboard that was the size of todays server boards. And it ran fine when it was the original hardware, but I wanted to RUN Windows 3.11 and have sound card, and 14.4 modem etc, and Trident 1MB Video Card, to have AOL 2.5 Internet, and the old PSU couldnt take the extra load at initial boot, but once the power supply was on and flipped off and back on quickly, the motherboard would reinitialize from the quick dip and the power supply had the charged capacitor cushion to then boot the 386 with adequate watts. Parts were proprietary and fortunately I only had to use this setup for like 6 months until scoring a 486 motherboard and a minitower with PSU for $40 in 1995.Installed new heatsink   http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103064   and set it back to 215Mhz FSB with 13x multiplier for 2798.7Mhz  from normally a 2600mhz CPU and its running healthy and slightly faster. Ran program to set all 4 cores to 100% and watched the temps.

From idle at 30c, it rose quickly to 41c and then levelled off at 45c with 65F room temp.  Left it running for 45 minutes at 100% to see if it would creep higher over time, but it held steady at 45c.

I think I am going to run it at 2798.7Mhz  for a while, since its running strong, is slightly faster, and staying cool.

Going to print out a PDF of this so that later when I decide that 2798.7Mhz  is not fast enough i can apply the knowledge shared here to push it further.

I also have a newer Biostar AM3 motherboard with 760G chipset running on 4GB of DDR3 1333 and may retire this AM2+ motherboard at some point and migrate the Athlon II x4 620 over to this board. Bought this motherboard $55 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138199   with a cheap $35 Sempron 140 CPU about 2 years ago to build up a cheap computer for my wife, but have since given her the Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4Ghz that I got for free that was struck by lightning and I fixed, which performs better than the Sempron 2.7Ghz single-core for gaming and multitasking. Prior to the Sempron 2.7Ghz single-core she was running a Pentium 4 2.53Ghz, in which the Sempron was much faster than the P4. But she was very happy to get the Core 2 Duo which performs even better. A Quiet User is a Happy User!!!  ...LOL     No more complaints of lag when multitasking  45C is better, there's some headroom there for increasing the voltages and clocking further in the future.
The Biostar board you linked to has higher rated power circuitry (125W vs 95W) but I still wouldn't trust it for much overclocking as they're still only 4-phase (actually just checked and it's 3+1) with no heatsinks.  Some manufacturers (MSI for one) are notorious for overrating their boards, causing them to set on fire even with a stock CPU that they state the board supports.

A useful thread about the importance of VRMs and MOSFETs:
http://www.overclock.net/t/943109/about-vrms-mosfets-motherboard-safety-with-125w-tdp-processors
A useful thread with a database of AMD boards and their power circuitry:
http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-databaseThanks for the links to check out as well as I wasnt aware of:

Quote

Some manufacturers (MSI for one) are notorious for overrating their boards, causing them to set on fire even with a stock CPU that they state the board supports.

I've read/heard many things, but not sure where to start. My wife's Dell desktop will not boot up, and is flashing an orange light. Because it will not do anything, what is the best way to start troubleshooting? Is there a trick to get it to boot? Do I open it up and visually check the inside? Worst case scenario, how do I get her info off her hard drive? Flashing lights on a Dell are usually diagnostic indicators.  Go to www.support.dell.com & enter your Service Tag & within the manual should be information on this.

If the new computer is a desktop, you connect old hard drive to the motherboard as a secondary drive.  If the new computer is a laptop, you put the old drive in a USB enclosure & connect it to a USB port.  Either way, you then copy your files to the new computer's hard drive or use them directly from the old hard drive. Quote

flashing an orange light

I did have the flashing orange light

C521 or E521?
Anyway, for E521, http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dime521/en/SM_EN/adtshoot.htm#wp1054146

amber light — Blinking amber indicates a problem with the power supply inside the computer. If the system cannot boot and there is a solid amber light, this indicates a problem with the system board (see "Power Problems" in your Owner's Manual).

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dime521/en/SM_EN/techov.htm#wp1053345

Standard ATX Power Supply, nothing special, about $30-40.

Don't know what your others computers are, but it's likely you can use the psu from one of them, at least for testing.  You don't have to remove the one from the Dell, just unplug all the connectors.  Lay the new one to the side & plug everything in.  If it works, then buy a replacement.

I got a used Dell XPS 600 from my brother. But on start-up it gave the "no boot device available" message. It turns out he removed both hard drives for another computer, and put in a laptop hard drive and told me everything was fine with the computer. I replaced the laptop hard drive with a 500G SATA drive, one that he had taken out before.

   Now, I have tried booting a Windows OS from a USB drive, a CD, even tried to clone a drive from a functioning computer. With those failures, I removed the battery from the motherboard in an attempt to clear the CMOS.

   The computer recognizes the hard drives and dvd drives, and says they are controlled by the BIOS.

System : Dell DXG051
BIOS Version: A09

I would greatly appreciate any help on the matter. Let me know if more info is needed.If you do not have the original bootable system recovery media CD/DVD etc, try booting system off of a Linux bootable CD or DVD such as MINT 14.1 KDE. Then go through the installation process and see what happens.

Quote

Now, I have tried booting a Windows OS from a USB drive, a CD, even tried to clone a drive from a functioning computer.

i need help and input about the best route to cool down my desktop i know this is a long read but hang in there please i really do need the help! i've exhausted all my searching abilities. i can't find any help plus i think this is one of the those things that come with experience that i don't have yet. but i've been having a problem for over a year now off and on but more recent lately, the problem is my gcard's crashing. i had a gts 250 1gb and that would overheat and hardlock all the time, so i thought i think its time for an UPGRADE so i got a gtx 650 sc 1gb and now its doing the same thing except it doesn't hardlock it just crashes then whatever game i was playing would drop fps dramatically. now idk what is going on but i have evga precision x latest v4.1.0 and it would seem the gtx 650 sc 1gb crash's around 50c which i find weird cause my gts 250 1gb didn't crash till 70c+. im going to be posting my info and my best idea of cooling the computer down. thank you for any info ideas or opinions in advance!!!!! so my best idea is get a different case because right now with the case i have, i have the side panel off and a house fan set on speed 1 blowing right on the whole mobo, WILLING add pics if you think it will help but im thinking about getting the Xigmatek ASGARD 381 CCC-AD38BX-U03 Black / White Steel / Plastic / Metal Mesh ATX Mid Tower Computer Case (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811815020) and filling all the fan slots for max push and pull setup. thats my best idea to cool it down but its 109$ and i don't wanna sink that much on just a case and all the fans to go into it, and it not cool it down enough. so any opinions would really help cause i'm stumped!   

------------------
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 5/13/2013, 22:54:51
       Machine name: KANDIEPUNK-PC
   Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.130318-1533)
           Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: 1E657
       System Model: 1E657A74
               BIOS: BIOS Date: 05/03/11 17:22:51 Ver: 08.00.16
          Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU         750  2.67GHz (4 CPUs), ~2.7GHz
             Memory: 6144MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 6136MB RAM
          Page File: 2891MB used, 9376MB available
        Windows Dir: C:\Windows
    DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
   User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
 System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
    DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
     DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode

------------
DxDiag Notes
------------
      Display Tab 1: No problems found.
        Sound Tab 1: No problems found.
        Sound Tab 2: No problems found.
        Sound Tab 3: No problems found.
        Sound Tab 4: No problems found.
          Input Tab: No problems found.

--------------------
DirectX Debug Levels
--------------------
Direct3D:    0/4 (retail)
DirectDraw:  0/4 (retail)
DirectInput: 0/5 (retail)
DirectMusic: 0/5 (retail)
DirectPlay:  0/9 (retail)
DirectSound: 0/5 (retail)
DirectShow:  0/6 (retail)

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
          Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650
       Manufacturer: NVIDIA
          Chip type: GeForce GTX 650
           DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
         Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0FC6&SUBSYS_26523842&REV_A1
     Display Memory: 3785 MB
   Dedicated Memory: 973 MB
      Shared Memory: 2811 MB
       Current Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (60Hz)
       Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
      Monitor Model: X226W-1920
         Monitor Id: SPT2105
        Native Mode: 1920 x 1080(p) (60.000Hz)
        Output Type: DVI
        Driver Name: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um
Driver File Version: 9.18.0013.1422 (English)
     Driver Version: 9.18.13.1422
        DDI Version: 11
       Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
  Driver Attributes: Final Retail
   Driver Date/Size: 3/14/2013 22:53:06, 17990800 bytes
        WHQL Logo'd: Yes
    WHQL Date Stamp:
  Device Identifier: {D7B71E3E-4C86-11CF-7C5E-5F061CC2C435}
          Vendor ID: 0x10DE
          Device ID: 0x0FC6
          SubSys ID: 0x26523842
        Revision ID: 0x00A1
 Driver Strong Name: oem24.inf:NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.1:Section062:9.18.13.1422:pci\ven_10de&dev_0fc6
     Rank Of Driver: 00E02001
        Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C ModeVC1_C ModeWMV9_C
   Deinterlace Caps: {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
       D3D9 Overlay: Supported
            DXVA-HD: Supported
       DDraw Status: Enabled
         D3D Status: Enabled
         AGP Status: Enabled

-------------
Sound Devices
-------------
            Description: Speakers (4- Logitech USB Headset)
 Default Sound Playback: Yes
 Default Voice Playback: Yes
            Hardware ID: USB\VID_046D&PID_0A0B&REV_1013&MI_00
        Manufacturer ID: 65535
             Product ID: 65535
                   Type: WDM
            Driver Name: USBAUDIO.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
            WHQL Logo'd: Yes
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 03:43:52, 109696 bytes
            Other Files:
        Driver Provider: Microsoft
         HW Accel Level: Basic
              Cap Flags: 0xF1F
    Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
 Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
              HW Memory: 0
       Voice Management: No
 EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
   I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

            Description: Realtek Digital Output (Realtek High Definition Audio)
 Default Sound Playback: No
 Default Voice Playback: No
            Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0889&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_1000
        Manufacturer ID: 1
             Product ID: 100
                   Type: WDM
            Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
         Driver Version: 6.00.0001.6602 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
            WHQL Logo'd: Yes
          Date and Size: 3/27/2012 17:03:36, 4015592 bytes
            Other Files:
        Driver Provider: Realtek Semiconductor Corp.
         HW Accel Level: Basic
              Cap Flags: 0xF1F
    Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
 Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
              HW Memory: 0
       Voice Management: No
 EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
   I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

            Description: Realtek Digital Output(RCA) (Realtek High Definition Audio)
 Default Sound Playback: No
 Default Voice Playback: No
            Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0889&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_1000
        Manufacturer ID: 1
             Product ID: 100
                   Type: WDM
            Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
         Driver Version: 6.00.0001.6602 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
            WHQL Logo'd: Yes
          Date and Size: 3/27/2012 17:03:36, 4015592 bytes
            Other Files:
        Driver Provider: Realtek Semiconductor Corp.
         HW Accel Level: Basic
              Cap Flags: 0xF1F
    Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
 Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
              HW Memory: 0
       Voice Management: No
 EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
   I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

            Description: Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)
 Default Sound Playback: No
 Default Voice Playback: No
            Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0889&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_1000
        Manufacturer ID: 1
             Product ID: 100
                   Type: WDM
            Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
         Driver Version: 6.00.0001.6602 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
            WHQL Logo'd: Yes
          Date and Size: 3/27/2012 17:03:36, 4015592 bytes
            Other Files:
        Driver Provider: Realtek Semiconductor Corp.
         HW Accel Level: Basic
              Cap Flags: 0xF1F
    Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
 Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
              HW Memory: 0
       Voice Management: No
 EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
   I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

---------------------
Sound Capture Devices
---------------------
            Description: Microphone (4- Logitech USB Headset)
  Default Sound Capture: Yes
  Default Voice Capture: Yes
            Driver Name: USBAUDIO.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 03:43:52, 109696 bytes
              Cap Flags: 0x1
           Format Flags: 0xFFFFF

            Description: Realtek Digital Input (Realtek High Definition Audio)
  Default Sound Capture: No
  Default Voice Capture: No
            Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
         Driver Version: 6.00.0001.6602 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
          Date and Size: 3/27/2012 17:03:36, 4015592 bytes
              Cap Flags: 0x1
           Format Flags: 0xFFFFF

            Description: Microphone (Avnex VIRTUAL Audio Device)
  Default Sound Capture: No
  Default Voice Capture: No
            Driver Name: {0.0.1.00000000}.{a267d830-a51b-4256-a016-89a6a2cf9724}
         Driver Version:  ()
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
          Date and Size: , 0 bytes
              Cap Flags: 0x1
           Format Flags: 0xFFFFF

-------------------
DirectInput Devices
-------------------
      Device Name: Mouse
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Keyboard
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Logitech USB Headset
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x046D, 0x0A0B
        FF Driver: n/a

Poll w/ Interrupt: No

-----------
USB Devices
-----------
+ USB Root Hub
| Vendor/Product ID: 0x8086, 0x3B34
| Matching Device ID: usb\root_hub20
| Service: usbhub
|
+-+ Generic USB Hub
| | Vendor/Product ID: 0x8087, 0x0020
| | Location: Port_#0001.Hub_#0002
| | Matching Device ID: usb\class_09
| | Service: usbhub
| |
| +-+ USB Input Device
| | | Vendor/Product ID: 0x093A, 0x2510
| | | Location: Port_#0004.Hub_#0004
| | | Matching Device ID: generic_hid_device
| | | Service: HidUsb
| | |
| | +-+ HID-compliant mouse
| | | | Vendor/Product ID: 0x093A, 0x2510
| | | | Matching Device ID: hid_device_system_mouse
| | | | Service: mouhid

----------------
Gameport Devices
----------------

------------
PS/2 Devices
------------
+ Standard PS/2 Keyboard
| Matching Device ID: *pnp0303
| Service: i8042prt
|
+ Terminal Server Keyboard Driver
| Upper Filters: kbdclass
| Service: TermDD
|
+ Terminal Server Mouse Driver
| Matching Device ID: pci\cc_0403
| Upper Filters: mouclass
| Service: TermDD

------------------------
Disk & DVD/CD-ROM Drives
------------------------
      Drive: C:
 Free Space: 11.8 GB
Total Space: 286.0 GB
File System: NTFS
      Model: Maxtor 6L300S0 ATA Device

--------------
System Devices
--------------
     Name: Intel(R) processor System Control and Status Registers - D157
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_D157&SUBSYS_00120042&REV_11\3&11583659&0&42
   Driver: n/a

     Name: High Definition Audio Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B56&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&D8
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Family SMBus Controller - 3B30
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B30&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&FB
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) processor Semaphore and Scratchpad Registers - D156
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_D156&SUBSYS_00120042&REV_11\3&11583659&0&41
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 8 - 3B50
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B50&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&E7
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B26&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&FD
   Driver: n/a

     Name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650
Device ID: PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0FC6&SUBSYS_26523842&REV_A1\4&2BAFFB92&0&0018
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) processor System Management Registers - D155
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_D155&SUBSYS_00120042&REV_11\3&11583659&0&40
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 7 - 3B4E
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B4E&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&E6
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B20&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&FA
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) QuickPath Interconnect - D151
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_D151&SUBSYS_00120042&REV_11\3&11583659&0&81
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 6 - 3B4C
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B4C&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&E5
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) P55 Express Chipset LPC Interface Controller - 3B02
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B02&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&F8
   Driver: n/a

     Name: High Definition Audio Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0E1B&SUBSYS_26523842&REV_A1\4&2BAFFB92&0&0118
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) QuickPath Interconnect - D150
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_D150&SUBSYS_00120042&REV_11\3&11583659&0&80
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 5 - 3B4A
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B4A&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&E4
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 82801 PCI Bridge - 244E
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_244E&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_A5\3&11583659&0&F0
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 1 - 3B42
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B42&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&E0
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_11AB&DEV_6121&SUBSYS_612111AB&REV_B2\4&3238514&0&00E6
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) processor PCI Express Root Port 1 - D138
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_D138&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_11\3&11583659&0&18
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B3C&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&D0
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Marvell Yukon 88E8057 Family PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Controller #2
Device ID: PCI\VEN_11AB&DEV_4380&SUBSYS_ABCD3842&REV_10\4&2ADD5C17&0&00E4
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) processor Miscellaneous Registers - D158
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_D158&SUBSYS_00120042&REV_11\3&11583659&0&43
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) processor DMI - D131
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_D131&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_11\3&11583659&0&00
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3B34&SUBSYS_10123842&REV_05\3&11583659&0&E8
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Marvell Yukon 88E8057 Family PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_11AB&DEV_4380&SUBSYS_ABCD3842&REV_10\4&12BAE574&0&00E5
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_104C&DEV_8023&SUBSYS_CB8410DE&REV_00\4&28867BB5&0&18F0
   Driver: n/a

------------------
DirectShow Filters
------------------

DirectShow Filters:
WMAudio Decoder DMO,0x00800800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMAPro over S/PDIF DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMSpeech Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
MP3 Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,mp3dmod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4s Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp4sdecd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMV Screen decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsdecd.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WMVideo Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,wmvdecod.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Mpeg43 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp43decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mpg4decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
ffdshow Video Decoder,0xff800001,2,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0007.3135
Xiph.Org Theora Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,dsfTheoraDecoder.dll,
Xiph.Org Vorbis Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,dsfVorbisDecoder.dll,
WMT VIH2 Fix,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,16.04.3505.0912
Record Queue,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,16.04.3505.0912
WMT Switch Filter,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,16.04.3505.0912
WMT Virtual Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,WLXVAFilt.dll,16.04.3505.0912
WMT DV Extract,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,16.04.3505.0912
WMT Virtual Source,0x00200000,0,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,16.04.3505.0912
WMT Sample Information Filter,0x00200000,1,1,WLXVAFilt.dll,16.04.3505.0912
ffdshow raw video filter,0x00200000,2,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0007.3135
CT Upsampler filter,0x00100000,1,1,Upsample.ax,2.00.0005.0000
ffdshow Audio Decoder,0x3fffffff,1,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0007.3135
Creative Wave Writer,0x00200000,1,0,WavWrite.ax,3.01.0004.0000
DV Muxer,0x00400000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Color Space Converter,0x00400001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
WM ASF Reader,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
Video Memory Render Filter,0x00200000,1,0,,
Screen Capture filter,0x00200000,0,1,wmpsrcwp.dll,12.00.7601.17514
AVI Splitter,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
VGA 16 Color Ditherer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
SBE2MediaTypeProfile,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Xiph.Org Ogg Muxer,0x00200000,1,0,dsfOggMux.dll,
Microsoft DTV-DVD Video Decoder,0x005fffff,2,4,msmpeg2vdec.dll,12.00.9200.16426
BPM Metadata,0x001fffff,1,1,MetaBPMu.ax,2.00.0002.0000
AC3 Parser Filter,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
CT Time-Scaling filter,0x00100000,1,1,TimeScal.ax,2.03.0009.0000
StreamBufferSink,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
MJPEG Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG-I Stream Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Xiph.Org FLAC Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,dsfFLACDecoder.dll,
SAMI (CC) Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Splitter,0x005fffff,1,0,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
Closed Captions Analysis Filter,0x00200000,2,5,cca.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SBE2FileScan,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft MPEG-2 Video Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Internal Script Command Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG Audio Decoder,0x03680001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DV Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Video Mixing Renderer 9,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Xiph.Org Theora Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,dsfTheoraEncoder.dll,
Xiph.Org Vorbis Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,dsfVorbisEncoder.dll,
CT Karaoke filter,0x00100000,1,1,Karaoke.ax,2.00.0012.0000
Microsoft MPEG-2 Encoder,0x00200000,2,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Creative AC3 Source Filter,0x00400000,0,1,AC3Srcu.ax,3.02.0001.0000
Creative PCM Raw Writer,0x00200000,1,0,RawWritu.ax,1.00.0000.0000
CT PDP filter,0x00100000,1,1,PDP.ax,1.00.0008.0000
ACM Wrapper,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG-2 Video Stream Analyzer,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Xiph.Org Native FLAC Decoder,0x00600000,0,1,dsfNativeFLACSource.dll,
Line 21 Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17835
Video Port Manager,0x00600000,2,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Xiph.Org Speex Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,dsfSpeexEncoder.dll,
Video Renderer,0x00400000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Xiph.Org Speex Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,dsfSpeexDecoder.dll,
Xiph.Org FLAC Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,dsfFLACEncoder.dll,
File Writer,0x00200000,1,0,WLXVAFilt.dll,16.04.3505.0912
VPS Decoder,0x00200000,0,0,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
CT SmartVolumeManagement filter,0x00100000,1,1,DSCompr.ax,1.00.0008.0000
Creative Audio Gain Filter,0x00200000,1,1,AudGain.ax,1.00.0000.0000
WM ASF Writer,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
VBI Surface Allocator,0x00600000,1,1,vbisurf.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Creative Flac Source Filter,0x00400000,0,1,FlacSrcu.ax,1.00.0002.0000
File writer,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Creative MLP Source Filter,0x00400000,0,1,MlpSrcu.ax,3.01.0000.0000
Creative File Reader Filter,0x00400000,0,1,FilReadu.ax,1.00.0005.0000
iTV Data Sink,0x00600000,1,0,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Bandisoft MPEG-1 Video Decoder,0xff800001,1,1,bdfilters.dll,1.00.0003.0012
iTV Data Capture filter,0x00600000,1,1,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SVM Metadata,0x001fffff,1,1,MetaSVMu.ax,2.00.0002.0000
CT HPVirtualizer filter,0x00100000,1,1,Virtual.ax,1.00.0000.0000
DVD Navigator,0x00200000,0,3,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17835
Overlay Mixer2,0x00200000,1,1,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17835
CT CMSS3 filter,0x00100000,1,1,CMSS3.ax,3.00.0013.0000
AVI Draw,0x00600064,9,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
RDP DShow Redirection Filter,0xffffffff,1,0,DShowRdpFilter.dll,
Microsoft MPEG-2 Audio Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WST Pager,0x00200000,1,1,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Demultiplexer,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
Creative Ogg Source Filter,0x00400000,0,1,OggSrcu.ax,1.00.0001.0000
DV Video Decoder,0x00800000,1,1,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Creative NVF Filter,0x00400000,0,1,NvfSrcu.ax,3.01.0001.0000
ffdshow Audio Processor,0x00200000,1,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0007.3135
Noise Reduction,0x00100000,1,1,NoisRedu.ax,3.00.0007.0000
SampleGrabber,0x00200000,1,1,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Null Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Creative WMA Writer,0x00200000,1,0,WMAWrite.ax,5.00.0001.0000
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x005fffff,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft AC3 Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msac3enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Xiph.Org Ogg Demuxer,0x00600000,1,1,dsfOggDemux2.dll,
StreamBufferSource,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Smart Tee,0x00200000,1,2,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Creative WMA Source Filter,0x00400000,0,1,WmaSrc.ax,3.01.0001.0000
Overlay Mixer,0x00200000,0,0,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17835
AVI Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
AVI/WAV File Source,0x00400000,0,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Wave Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MIDI Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Multi-file Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File stream renderer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
ffdshow subtitles filter,0x00200000,2,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0007.3135
Microsoft DTV-DVD Audio Decoder,0x005fffff,1,1,msmpeg2adec.dll,6.01.7140.0000
StreamBufferSink2,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
AVI Mux,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Bandisoft MPEG-1 Audio Decoder,0xff800001,1,1,bdfilters.dll,1.00.0003.0012
Line 21 Decoder 2,0x00600002,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File Source (Async.),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File Source (URL),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Creative CDDA Source Filter,0x00400000,0,1,CDDA.ax,3.00.0003.0000
Creative LiveRecording Filter SxS,0x00400000,0,1,LiveRecu.ax,5.00.0001.0000
WebM Muxer Filter,0x00200000,2,1,webmmux.dll,0.09.0012.0000
WebM VP8 Decoder Filter,0x00600000,1,1,vp8decoder.dll,0.09.0012.0000
WebM VP8 Encoder Filter,0x00200000,1,1,vp8encoder.dll,0.09.0012.0000
WebM Splitter Filter,0x00600000,1,1,webmsplit.dll,0.09.0012.0000
Creative Internet Source Filter,0x00400000,0,1,InetSrcu.ax,1.00.0000.0000
Infinite Pin Tee Filter,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Enhanced Video Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,evr.dll,6.01.7601.17514
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00200000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG Video Decoder,0x40000001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

WDM Streaming Tee/Splitter Devices:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink Converter,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Video Compressors:
WMVideo8 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvxencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMVideo9 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvencod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
MSScreen 9 encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
DV Video Encoder,0x00200000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
ffdshow video encoder,0x00100000,1,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0007.3135
MJPEG Compressor,0x00200000,0,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Xiph.Org Theora Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,dsfTheoraEncoder.dll,
WebM VP8 Encoder Filter,0x00200000,1,1,vp8encoder.dll,0.09.0012.0000
Cinepak Codec by Radius,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
ffdshow Video Codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Fraps Video Decompressor,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Intel IYUV codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Intel IYUV codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Bandi MJPEG Video Decoder,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Bandi MPEG-1 Video Decoder,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft RLE,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Video 1,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514

Audio Compressors:
WM Speech Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
WMAudio Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
Xiph.Org Vorbis Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,dsfVorbisEncoder.dll,
Xiph.Org Speex Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,dsfSpeexEncoder.dll,
Xiph.Org FLAC Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,dsfFLACEncoder.dll,
IMA ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
PCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Ogg Vorbis (mode1),0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Ogg Vorbis (mode2),0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Ogg Vorbis (mode3),0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Ogg Vorbis (mode1+),0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Ogg Vorbis (mode2+),0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Ogg Vorbis (mode3+),0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
GSM 6.10,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CCITT A-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CCITT u-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MP2,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG Layer-3,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

Audio Capture Sources:
Microphone (4- Logitech USB Hea,0x00200000,0,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microphone (Avnex Virtual Audio,0x00200000,0,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Realtek Digital Input (Realtek ,0x00200000,0,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514

PBDA CP Filters:
PBDA DTFilter,0x00600000,1,1,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA ETFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528

Midi Renderers:
Default MidiOut Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft GS Wavetable Synth,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

WDM Streaming Capture Devices:
Realtek HD Digital input,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HD Audio Line input,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HD Audio Mic input,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HD Audio Stereo input,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Avnex Virtual Audio Device,0x00200000,2,2,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Logitech USB Headset,0x00200000,2,2,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
USB PC Camera VC305,0x00200000,0,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

WDM Streaming Rendering Devices:
Realtek HD Audio output,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HDA SPDIF RCA Out,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HDA SPDIF Out,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Avnex Virtual Audio Device,0x00200000,2,2,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Logitech USB Headset,0x00200000,2,2,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

BDA Network Providers:
Microsoft ATSC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBS Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBT Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514

Video Capture Sources:
USB PC Camera VC305,0x00200000,0,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Multi-Instance Capable VBI Codecs:
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA Transport Information Renderers:
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00600000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x00600000,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA CP/CA Filters:
Decrypt/Tag,0x00600000,1,1,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
Encrypt/Tag,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
XDS Codec,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708

WDM Streaming Communication Transforms:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink Converter,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Audio Renderers:
Speakers (4- Logitech USB Heads,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Default DirectSound Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Default WaveOut Device,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Realtek Digital Output (Realtek High Definition Audio),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Realtek Digital Output(RCA) (Realtek High Definition Audio),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Speakers (4- Logitech USB Headset),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Realtek Digital Output (Realtek,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Realtek Digital Output(RCA) (Re,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Speakers (Realtek High Definiti,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

---------------
EVR Power Information
---------------
Current Setting: {5C67A112-A4C9-483F-B4A7-1D473BECAFDC} (Quality)
  Quality Flags: 2576
    Enabled:
    Force throttling
    Allow half deinterlace
    Allow scaling
    Decode Power Usage: 100
  Balanced Flags: 1424
    Enabled:
    Force throttling
    Allow batching
    Force half deinterlace
    Force scaling
    Decode Power Usage: 50
  PowerFlags: 1424
    Enabled:
    Force throttling
    Allow batching
    Force half deinterlace
    Force scaling
    Decode Power Usage: 0
Does it crash every time it reaches 50C?  50C is nothing for a graphics card so the crash should not be temperature related.  Does it crash in every game?  Have you tried a synthetic benchmark/stress test such as Unigine Heaven, 3DMark or Furmark?  Have you tried increasing the card's fan speed in Precision?  Are any other temperatures (VRM mainly) shown in Precision?  If not, download GPU-Z and give that a try.
What driver version are you on?  Have you done a clean install of the drivers, or of Windows?
What power supply do you have?  What brand is the card?  Preferably full make/model.even though most of the info is right above your post ill still type it out its a nvidia gtx 650 sc 1gb my power supply is a 550w plenty enough for my gcard. ive recently BOUGHT a cpu fan that holds 2 120mm fans and that keeps my intel i5 750 quad down on temps (45c under stress) not as low as id hope but living in arizona and the room that my comps in being on average around 60 to 70f its hard to cool it down and was wondering if a case with way more ventilation would be better or is there another route that im not aware of.I'm asking the full make and model of your graphics card and power supply.  GTX 650 is part of the model, but it could be for example an MSI Twin Frozr GTX 650, an EVGA GTX 650 Signature, a Gainware GTX 650 GOOD Edition, etc.  I'm also asking the make and model of your PSU as there are good 550W units and bad 550W units.
You didn't answer any of my questions.

A case with more ventilation may help if your issue is overheating, however from the information you've provided it doesn't sound as if that is the problem here.Does it crash every time it reaches 50C? yes
- 50C is nothing for a graphics card so the crash should not be temperature related.
-Does it crash in every game?  any games that make it reach 50c use to be able to play farcry 3 on my old gts 250 on medium now with the gtx 650 sc 1gb it crashs
-Have you tried a synthetic benchmark/stress test such as Unigine Heaven, 3DMark or Furmark? evga OC Scanner X downloading unigine right now too test with that
-  Have you tried increasing the card's fan speed in Precision?  i have it set to auto but i modified the chart for it to follow
- Are any other temperatures (VRM mainly) shown in Precision?  If not, download GPU-Z and give that a try. yes there down to comfortable levels except for my core but thats only at 45c
What driver version are you on?  Have you done a clean install of the drivers, or of Windows? yes its been crashing for over a year ive done multiple clean installs but with the recent gcard update it was a fresh install
What power supply do you have?  What brand is the card?  Preferably full make/model. gcard (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130828) 550w PS (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016)Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0

FPS:   
11.4
Score:   
288
Min FPS:   
2.7
Max FPS:   
30.1
System

Platform:   
Windows 7 (build 7601, Service Pack 1) 64bit
CPU model:   
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU 750 2.67GHz (2668MHz) x4
GPU model:   
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 9.18.13.1422 (1023MB) x1
Settings

Render:   
Direct3D11
Mode:   
1600x900 8xAA windowed
Preset   
Extreme
Powered by UNIGINE Engine
Unigine Corp. © 2005-2013So the VRM temperatures are less than the GPU? That's quite unusual in itself.
Did your card reach 50C in the EVGA scanner and crash? How about in Unigine?
Have you modified the fan curve to keep it under 50C, if so does the crash still occur? If you were to do something less stressful on the card and reduce the fan speed to allow it to reach 50C, does the crash still occur?
I'm just finding it very difficult to believe the issue is temperature related, at least on the core. The maximum temperature is over 100C, some throttling may be observed around 75C but you certainly shouldn't experience crashes at 50C, so I'm leaning towards a faulty card - either it just crashes under load and 50C is a coincidence, or there's something else on the card (VRM or memory) reaching high temperatures causing the crash.
When it crashes and the game slows down, do the clock speeds of the card also drop? Screenshots of Precision might be handy here the unigine went above 50c without a crash which was alright to see max it reached was 56c on extreme. but the black screens for 10 seconds max then pops up with really reduced fps but still runs fine just need to restart the game to get the fps back. i point at a heat issue because my room gets extremely hot during the summer so theres always warm air being blown on the hardware leading to it always idle above 35c on cpu and gpu. my comps pretty outdated i built it 3 years ago and have only upgraded the gcard and a new heatsink for my cpu which only cooled down the idle temp on my cpu didn't help with heat when under stress

it might be my mobo being too old and outdated? its a evga p55 ftw. i really don't know what to do other than new case and more fansOK, so we've established it isn't a heat issue, if your card reached 56C in Unigine and didn't crash.
Your PC isn't outdated by any means, the graphics card is a little weak but your CPU is still pretty good.  Seems an odd decision to go with 6GB of RAM, but that's nothing bad.
As I asked above, what actually are your VRM temperatures?  Do the clock speeds drop when you get a crash, or stay the same?  Screenshots of Precision or GPU-Z would be helpful.