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Hi,


I was recently given a gtx 480 graphics card unfortunately as i went to install it into my computer i noticed i didn't have enough power cables and i was wondering if ANYONE give me some advise on how i can get around this problem heres are some of my specs

psu - ARCTIC Power 700W PSU - 4X SATA 1x PCI-Express
Motherboard - ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 890GX Socket AM3 DVI VGA HDMI Out 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard
(if you need to know anything else please fill free to ask)

If anyone could give me some advise on this problem is would be greatly appreciated.


That PSU CAME with both 6 and 8 pin ADAPTERS for the vid card...
Also the card itself shipped with a Molex to 6 pin adapter so you should be good to go.Hi,


Thankyou!, Would my psu be good enough to power the graphics card?
It's not a top end PSU...however it should be sufficient for that card.

Hi.
I have a new SEAGATE Barracuda 2 tb internal HDD in a dock I have been using for a while, with another HDD. No problem there, but I set it (the other HDD) up on another PC running Win XP. Once formatted the 2 HDDs I use in 2 different docks work on my laptop.
Somehow I must have forgotten something or there is something I don't know about setting up a new HDD using Win7.
My laptop isn't recognizing the new HDD, other than finding the drivers ( I guess, no real ID on what the drivers are for, but only 1 new device leads to the conclusion...).
I am not totally ignorant, but I don't know what to do next.
Can someone help me find my way?Correct me if I'm wrong. Is the 2 TB HD not recognized on a laptop I PRESUME is connected internally and your trying to install Windows 7? What laptop brand/model and kind of Windows disc you are using? These are docks you are using with the laptop as well ? ?
If you are using both try with just one.
From a cold boot check in Disk Management and see if the DOCKED drive is even reported...it should be.
Doesn't matter if the drive was setup under XP or not...*The drive is the only one in a dock, I removed the 2 other working HDDs.

*I only mentioned XP to delineate the different environments, as I was able to format the other 2 HDDs in XP, and not now using Win7...

*What does the term "cold boot" REFER to?  I have rebooted 2 times with the drive connected to the laptop in the dock. I can see a device  (unknown) displayed in My Computer, but no way to format it I can figure out. Which is why I am here... Device manager gives me a long number which is the new HDD, I assume, but where do I go from there to format the drive?
Does it show up in Disk Management ? ?Yes, as disc 1.
Except for my C drive and D drive, there is nothing else ACTIVE on my laptop.Well right clik it and select Properties...
Report back with your findings...There seemed to be a lack of grasp here, so I went online and kept trying on Google search until I found someone who put together a few pages of "How to Format a HDD in Win7", and "How to Partition a HDD in Windows 7", which was my main problem. Had to partition the drive before formatting it, worked like a charm .
Now I can reformat my laptop after using the HDD as an external storage drive and saving my app files, etc
.Got something nasty not visible to any anti virus or malware software; Kapersky, SpyBot,  Avira ,CCCleaner, nothing found whatever it is filling my RAM and turning my laptop into frozen sludge.
Most of what I have program-wise is kept on docked HDDs (5 TBs now), so my laptop is pretty clean.No lack of grasp at all...i was waiting on the Disk Management info...
Glad you got it sorted...

I've had the 636 for a number of years now and it has always worked flawlessly for me. I recently got a new computer that has Win 7 64bit as the OS along with the Adaptec 29320LPE SCSI card to connect the scanner to. I can't seem to find a driver or application that will allow me to use the 636 on this new computer. When the computer boots, it does see the SCSI card and the scanner. I couldn't find anything on the Epson site that gave me the impression this was still supported.
Hoping someone will have some IDEAS on what I can do. Thx, BobSince they haven't written Win7 drivers...and probably will not your best bet would be to try the Vista drivers and see...they have to be the 64bit drivers though...

Worst case scenario you'll be shopping for a new printer...

PS...do you have a Shelby ? ?Epson Expression 636 Scanner; most RECENT drivers are for WINDOWS 2000.

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&infoType=FAQ&oid=14576&foid=133970
FAQ
Q:  Does Epson have MICROSOFT Vista 64-bit drivers available for my scanner?
A:  Currently, we do not have Microsoft Vista 64-bit drivers available for your scanner. However, you may be able to use the VueScan software from Hamrick; it supports Microsoft Vista 64-bit. Please visit the Hamrick web site for more information.

Hamrick software is not free.
http://www.hamrick.com/vuescan/epson_expression_636.html

Hi guys,

I have a dumb question where i need to make myself clear.

Can anyone explain what is the DIFFERENCE between the BIOS setting (CMOS setting) and EC (EMBEDDED Controller)? I am in confusion.

Thanks! BIOS/CMOS is related to holding configuration preferences such as what order to boot devices in, power back up after a power loss ETC, and many other features which can include if supported advanced features like CONFIGURING a system to run over-clocked etc.

According to the EC from AMI, the Embedded Controller is a chip that handles multiple functions such as keyboard input via PS2 slots etc, battery life monitoring etc, and more can be read at the link below.

They are both 2 totally different things, so lots of differences.


http://www.ami.com/Products/BIOSandEFIFirmware/EmbeddedController/Not a dumb question at all.
The BIOS is  really a program used to service the hardware.
A EC, embedded controller is a bit of hardware that does specific operations on an external device.
Example: PC. Upon power up, the BIOS program looks for the floppy drive by asking the controller to return the head ton the home  position. The on-board controller  itself monitors the limit switch and when it indicates the head is at home, it raises a flag that is read by the BIOS.
In the above you have BIOS working with an embedded controller.

It is possible to control a floppy drive, or even a hard drive, without a controller. But that is only done with minimal machine were low-cost is  more important that performance. An example is the Apple ][ with had no floppy controller.
Thank you for explaining. This clears my confusion.
Thank again!

Could someone help me get my scanner to function?  I installed the drivers, and I re booted.  Nothing happens.  Have Windows 7, no problems indicated on the download from the HP web site.  There should be an icon on the LOWER right tool bar indicating I have the program properly installed but there is nothing.  PLEASE help Thank youIf this is a USB connected printer/scanner and it was connected when you installed the software on many models that won't work...

Remove the scanner in DEVICE Manager.
Remove the HP software in Add/Remove Programs.
Power down and disconnect the scanner...re-boot then run the HP setup software and it'll prompt you for when to connect the scanner...should now work.
P.S. Make SURE the software/drivers you DLoaded are for Win7...

Let us know.

Please Help me....
I Want help for setup my sound configuration for my WINDOWS 7 pc
SPEAKER and Headphone not WORKING at the same time if i plug headphone on FRONT panel Speaker which plug on rear panel doesn't work if i unplug headphone from front panel the speaker works fine...Please help me its urgent to setup my audio for my brand new pc...

Thanks in Advance,,
Azkardeen...
 Thats the way it's designed to work...

Ok, guys....
I have (PROBABLY) simple question:
Can I connect (is it connectible)
MSI dvd-rom model d16 (ms-8216s)   

to

GIGABYTE M68MT-S2 Motherboard
That DVD-ROM is IDE and this motherboard does not have integrated IDE. If you were in a bind and NEEDED to use that DVD ROM and had a PCI IDE Controller CARD, you could populate the PCI slot with a IDE Controller and use this DVD Rom with this motherboard. OR use a SATA to IDE adapter between the SATA port of this motherboard and the IDE DVD-ROM.

PERSONALLY, I'd just buy a new SATA DVD-RW drive for like $25 and use the standard SATA 2.0 port that this motherboard has.

My COMPUTER system time keeps on changing every time and when there are auditing being carried out at some times it appears i was working during the night. how can i sought out this. the machine runs WINDOWS 7 and another one with XP sp3.Replace the CMOS battery...Part # CR 2032 available anywhere...
Do this with all power to the unit removed.An interesting discovery my wife just made (actually i discovered it from something she did). She recently bought a 3 pack of simulated battery driven candles (like a real tea CANDLE) from a dollar store.3 in a pack including 3 batteries. TOTAL cost  $1.00 all the batteries were CR 2032's. Therefore an alternative source is available.truenorth

I'm trying to install Windows 7 to a new machine but it won't RUN from the SATA CD drive.  Message is  ' Reboot and select proper boot device '    The CD drive is first boot priority and the HDD is BLANK  .  The CD drive appears in the BIOS boot list.

It gives the same message whether HDD and CD are plugged in, one or the other or no drives at all.  !!

Anybody had experience of this ?    I've set the BIOS to defaults.moono,  are you sure the windows 7 dvd that you have is a bootable dvd and not an upgrade dvd?  that would be a major reason that you dvd drive won't boot.  Or is it a cd and not a dvd drive.  That also would be a PROBLEM as windows 7 comes on a DVD..

Richhello rich,
Yes, it's the FULL install disc, legit, and a dvd drive.   OK, rich, SORTED.  It's a bad dvd drive.  I've installed another and we're off !   Thank you.

Need physical location of video card,Velocity-desk topPlease don't post the same question more than once. I deleted the duplicate.

Assuming it's a true video card as opposed to a chip on the motherboard, it's the card your DISPLAY cable is plugged into.Don't know all of the MODELS but if it is the "mico" model then this is what it says about graphics CARDS ", three (yes, three) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680 graphics cards in Tri-SLI" truenorthInside the PC, presumably.

Hi Fellows,

I have TOSHIBA 200GB HDD. I made it external HDD through a drive case and using it since few months for storing the data. it has 4 partitions.
Now I have a problem with it. A week before the drive started giving following errors when I was plugging it in to the system
There might be a problem with some FILES on this device or disc, this can happen if you remove the device or disc before all files have been written to it
Delayed Write Failed
I/O Device Error
Initially it was only reading two partitions, after 2-3 days it only showed one partition (not all data), then now it is showing 4 partition with zero data with zero 0mb total disk space. It is asking to format each partition I am trying to open. I tried to access the HDD from multiple systems (XP, VISTA, SEVEN) but same 0MB size showing up now every time.

How can I get the external HDD back to normal state WITHOUT losing the data already there? please help.

Thanks,




Quote

How can I get the external HDD back to normal state without losing the data already there? please help.

Hi guys,
I have an Acer Aspire One D257 NOTEBOOK. It was all working fine until just yesterday. I plugged it in th charge and it just went black. I turned it back on, and the same thing. I then restored it to factory settings using Acer eRecovery Management, and all fine for about 30 minutes. Then it started again. I turned it off and plugged it in, and charged it up fully. Then I turned it on again, and all is OK. I want to use it plugged in though, as the charge doesn`t LAST long in it. Any suggestions?

Help much appreciated,
Spollen27Have you tried it with the BATTERY removed ? ?
Remove all power to take the battery out 1st. Quote from: patio on February 14, 2013, 10:25:35 AM

Have you tried it with the battery removed ? ?

how would you use the laptop without the battery?

On AC power?

So I could just plug it in and work away?

Maybe, as someone here suggested, the burner is just wearing out.

Hello there!

I've tried searching for a solution to this for about two hours now and I've had no luck.... I thought it was about time I asked for help.

Today my keyboard has DEVELOPED an ISSUE wherein it will not revert back to a held down key after another key is pressed. For example if I held down w (to move forward) and then a (to strafe left) I would expect the command input to appear like this on a word DOCUMENT:

wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwawwwwwwwwwwwww

However, it appears to cease all input when another key is pressed. I imagine it would look something like this:

wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwa

This issue has only just started today, and I have tried another keyboard to make sure it's not this one causing the problem. I've tried updating the driver software for my keyboard, but it was already up to date. I'm running out of possibilities now ^^;

Please help!Check your repeat rate in Contrrol Panel/Keyboards...It's nothing to do with the repeat rate. The problem lies in that the input of the first held key is CANCELLED when another key is pressed/held down.

Thank you for trying though ^^;If another key is pressed that sounds like normal behaviour to me...It's not. A better example is if I hold the 'w' key (to move forward in a game) and then press 'space bar' (to jump) the input for the 'w' key will be forgotten and I will stop moving forward even though I have not taken my finger off of the key.What game ? ?Penumbra: Overture
Borderlands II
The Elder SCROLLS V: Skyrim
Etc.

I've tried it with a few, and it even occurs when I write things in word, notepad or forum boxes like here.

Hey
Could SOMEONE please tell that this laptop model: HP Pavilion G6-1317TX 15.6 HD/C i5-2450M/4GB/500GB/ATI Rad HD 7450M, can be install a graphic card in to it,

If so, is it possible to install a 2GB graphic card in it, thanks a lotYou can't install external graphic card in it, all laptop comes with build in graphic chipset.No, I did not mean to install an external graphic card, I MEANT to replace the existing graphic card to a 2 GB, is it possible? You can only update your existing graphic card, only if it still supported by the manufacturer. Visit the laptop website support and DOWNLOAD the latest driver they provided.what do you mean by "update your existing graphic card,",  do you mean getting the same type of graphic card but produces a better resolution?
You can't change the GPU on a laptop. Quote from: johnha169 on February 19, 2013, 02:29:18 AM

what do you mean by "update your existing graphic card,",  do you mean getting the same type of graphic card but produces a better resolution?

It means, install the latest driver for the GPU.

Will the latest driver produce a better graphic quality? I think maybe but not much better, right?

I'm thinking of buying an Revo L80, the trouble I'm having is finding out how to connect my speakers to it. My speakers are logitec x-540 and they connect to my computer using the orange, green and black cables. The revo only has spdif and not the 3.5m jacks that my speakers output from. Is there any device I can BUY that will adapt the 3 cables into a spdif cable?

ThanksYou need a Digital to ANALOG Audio Converter such as this: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=449640&csid=_61
I have never used ONE of these, but you will need one that meets your audio requirements to convert the digital s/pdif to analog.

A cheap route to go might be to just use an available USB port with a USB audio adapter such as this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812186035

I bought 2 of these cheap USB audio adapters and they work very well. One for my daughters computer with a blown integrated audio chip on her Foxconn motherboard and the other for a Biostar motherboard (made in 2008) that has no microphone driver support for a realtek chipset for Windows 7 even when trying XP and Vista drivers and my single PCI slot is already populated. This USB audio adapter was installed and working in less than 5 seconds with drivers auto detected for it. The only thing I had to do to use the microphone was to SET the system up as this USB HD Audio Device as the primary vs the integrated for the microphone to work.

It made a buzz sound, not like the beep I heard on my last computer which was more like a miniature bullhorn just before it crashed, but it was a buzz sound and then a blue screen with words in white LETTERS, then it restarts and windows says its recovered from a SPONTANEOUS shut down. It's up and running again, but I'm worried. The last computer I had did something similar and there was no reviving it after that. It is a desktop compaq presario SR5210NX Processor intel celeron processor 420, but a friend of ours who runs a computer repair shop takes unwanted computers, FIXES them if worth salvaging, and sells them from time to time. We've known him for years so I don't think he'd knowingly sell us junk, but we've had this for about two months now. What could be wrong?Need to find the location of the buzzing sound. This can be a failing hard drive, power supply, or a fan that has bearings that occasionally make a buzzing sound and can cause blue screen if an over temp condition is reached with say a video card. 

I'd run this past your friend who sold you it FIRST to make sure that opening or tampering with the computer will not void any warranty if he gave you one. He might also be willing to look it over for you and supply replacement parts for free like I do for my friends when parts that didnt cost me anything are available to give away.

But to locate the noise, I'd pop the case open and run it with the side panel off and when the buzz sound happens again try to pinpoint its location. I am thinking that its either a Power Supply or a Video Card with a fan thats bearings are shot on and making the buzzing noise.

Also its important to know if the buzzing noise is COMING from inside the computer or through the Speakers of the computer. As for I have seen bad RAM cause the sound card to output a buzz right before a blue screen and then reboot.

PLS I NEED HELP--- MY CHURCH HAS 6 TV SCREENS, WHICH I CONNECTED ALL TOGETHER WITH THE HELP OF A VGA SPLITTER. NOW WE JUST BOUGHT A NEW TV, AND THE TV DOES NOT HAVE VGA PORT. ONLY HDMI, USB AND THE VIDEO PORT(RED/YELLOW). NOW AM FINDING IT DIFFICULT TO GIVE IT A SIGNAL, SINCE I ONLY HAVE VGA INPUT FROM MY SOURCE. PLS WHAT CAN I DO?You need a Analog to Digital converter box to convert VGA ( analog ) to HDMI ( digital ). Lots of solutions out there. Here is one site that has them as well as a warning not to get tricked into cables that can switch VGA to HDMI. http://sewelldirect.com/articles/vga-to-hdmi.aspxPlease do not post the same question more than once. I deleted the THREE duplicate posts.Cables cannot make the conversion, as Dave said. The reason HDMI to VGA cables work is if the source or display can detect the signal type and make the appropriate change. For EXAMPLE, my graphics cards will detect if the display is analog or digital and send the appropriate signal, and I've run them through an HDMI-VGA cable without a converter. However, I DOUBT the switch box you have is capable of doing this. A converter box is the way to go.Sorry if this is a little late but im sure people will read this thread.

If you want to convert VGA to hdmi like quaxo said a simple vga to hdmi conversion cable will NOT work. Save your money and DON'T BUY THEM. All they do is convert the input pins and not any data, so don't waste your time. If you see a cable like this:

PLEASE DON'T BE TEMPTED IN GETTING IT

What you need to successfully convert VGA into hdmi is a converter box which has the power to convert not only pins buy also input and output signals of images and sound. This may sound complicated for a beginner but its really not.

First get your self a couple of vga and hdmi cables, buy them from ebay or your local shop.

Then you need the vga to hdmi converter itself, i suggest you get it from this website, they have some good information on vga to hdmi conversion.

Simple plug in all your components and cables and you should be good to go. Make sure you have a good quality hdmi cable, or else you may EXPERIENCE a fuzzy image.

Well thats it for now, i hope this helps you guys

On my graphic CARD there's a three leef clover logo, which manufacturer made it?Hi

SEEMS to be 4H but a search for 4H GRAPHICS cards doesn't give any hits. Does the card have a FCC ID# if you google that NUMBER it will give more information.

Found it  it's a Club 3D
Radeon HD 5670 CGAX-5672I
thank you for your help

Hello,

I'm trying to fix my friends Gateway GM 5664 desktop computer.  He was told by a local pc SHOP that it needed a new motherboard.

I went ahead a bought a new one and installed it.

My problem is once I turn the computer on I hear the initial beep and all the fans start running, normal hd drive sounds, mouse & keyboard work but I have a blank black screen. So I can't see anything on my monitor (monitor says no signal). The monitor connection to the pc is secure and the monitor has been tested on other pc's so I know it works.

Can someone let me know what the issue might be?

Thanks is advance.Many things can be at the root of this type an issue. Have you tried another video card yet? truenorthThe monitor is CONNECTED to the vga connection on the motherboard.  There are 2 other cards on the mb.  One is for DVI input and the other is for tv input.Input ? ?...you mean output right ? ?
Right output.I would POWER down both the PC and the monitor and try the DVI connector then...
It's a good POSSIBILITY the onboard vid is disabled because there is a vid card installed...which is how it's normally designed to work.I don't have a dvi cable at the MOMENT.  If I remove the dvi card would that make the onboard vga the default?

I'm going to try that and see what happens.Yes...it would.
You may want to remove both cards to test...dont know what kind of setup he was runnin...It worked!

All I had to do was take the dvi card out.

Thanks Patio!!Anytime...Welcome Aboard...and i hope you have success fixing the card issue.

Hi,

So, i WOULD like to know about wifi card for laptop.
Some of the wifi card i noticed have 2 wired that can be attach to it, commonly white & black.
What are the white & black means, such as + - ?

Then, some of the wifi card only able to be attach with 1 wire only.
Can both of these used on each other? Will it burn the motherboard if incompatible?

Thank you for your time, and sorry for hard time explaining this.Sorry, I did not understand your question. Can you find a picture?
Devices for most computers have some kind of plug or connector, not just two wires.
This is a set of images of Wi-Fi cards.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Images+of+wifi+cards&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=PFw&tbo=u&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=EroiUbvxMObQ2QWZ-YC4DA&ved=0CDQQsAQ&biw=683&bih=383


The Wi-Fi above requires not electrical connections.  Has a RANGE of about 300 yards or meters.
http://www.laptopparts101.com/wireless-card/ Quote from: jason2074 on February 18, 2013, 05:03:08 PM

http://www.laptopparts101.com/wireless-card/

My computer has had issues in the past few weeks where it will randomly shut down without notice or warning. Sometimes the fades to black in the middle of activity, I hear the shutdown sound a second later and then the computer goes off. Rarely the screen shuts down like normal. All my running programs close one-by-one and then the shutting down screen appears. I've scanned the full system with my anti-virus and anti-spyware programs and have determined this is not the act of malicious software. I have not DONE any major hardware of software upgrades, have a secure internet connection, and do not have a webcam or any other hardware that can be exploited attached to the system. At the WORST this happens three TIMES a day.What OS do you have? In Windows there is a thing CALLED 'event viewer' that shows you a list of errors of conflicts hat have happened.
This may help.
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/40108/how-to-use-event-viewer/You may want to check your Temps also along with the above advice...
SpeedFan is a Free DLoad.

I'm in 9th grade and I build this computer for a school project since my current rig is a gaming beast I have no need for this one. I was wondering if this would be a decent browser/stream and mid lvl games such as garry's mod and any game with a high optimized source engine?

Spec's

- MSI N630GT-MD4GD3 GeForce GT 630 4GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card

-CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 430W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

-Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600

-MSI H61M-P31/W8 LGA 1155 Intel H61 MICRO ATX Intel Motherboard

-Intel Pentium G860 Sandy BRIDGE 3.0GHz LGA 1155 65W Dual-Core

250gb ssd

samsung dvd/burner

This cost total 320$, I already had a COPY of windows 7 I've tested it but I need an expert opinion this out preforms my moms hp pavillion which she payed 650$ for so I THINK I did pretty well.

We'd have to know what's in the Pavilion...but i'll go out on a limb here and say probably Yes.Absolutely Yes.

I had posted about a problem with my hard drive. black screen error disk error occurred press crtl alt del to restart then goes right back to the error black screen. I tried going to alt f10 for recovery and one option to and it is shaded out. The bios does show the hard drive. I put the hard drive in a working computer and it shows the drive with no data on it . Someone said it might be the master boot. Does anyone know of a SITE where I can download a recovery for the master boot. After performing the alt f10 everytime I boot the system it goes right into checking files and goes to the recovery. This is a gateway laptop model m6847 (64). I put Ubuntu 12.04 and it had a option to view or download so I view did not download it .Not sure as I am beginner only now a little and help appreciated. Thank you Hi, My first post here will HOPEFULLY help someone.  From your sig you are using XP.  Boot from your XP install CD.  Go to Recovery when the menu comes up.  In Recovery there are numerous commands.  One is fixmbr and the other is fixboot.  It will warn you about screwing up other PARTITIONS if you use fixmbr, so MAKE sure you remove and unbacked up important data before you execute fixmbr.

And, in you CMOS, make sure you drive boot order is correct.

M$ has a nice list of the commands if you care to search for it and then PRINT it out.

Ron

operating system is a vista home with 64 . everything was preinstalled so I do not have any of the cd. I am not Able to do anything other going in to bios or boot when it comes up as it goes right into the loading files and goes to the recovery and to go back to factory setting is shaded out and I am not able to even exit I have to shut the system down.

So my 3Com 100mbps unmanaged 16-port switch died over the weekend and I have looked everywhere for a modern replacement for the one feature that I enjoyed it having. It had an LED bar display on it that would show bandwidth consumption. This was helpful when knowing if it was a good time to download a new distro of Linux etc and not compete with my wife watching netflix while also on VoIP phone and my daughter on youtube for bandwidth.

I suppose they did away with this feature in newer switches since 99.9% of the switches out there are placed in a location where they are not monitored.

Anyone know of any modern inexpensive 100mbps switches that have this bandwidth usuage display feature which can be LED or LCD and less than $40 USD.

Even though this setup added a very small amount of latency, I had this switch in series between my broadband MODEM and my router resting on my desk with my flat screen display resting on top of it. So I could look down and see how much bandwidth was being used at any time.

I bought this 16-port switch for $25 used at a computer fair/swap 5 years ago, and wish I bought the 2nd one the guy had as a pair for $40 combined, as for I could have used that 2nd one now to replace this one, but woulda-shoulda. Just looking for a modern replacement if there are any that MIGHT be smaller like a 5-port etc, although number of ports is not important.

I might have to buy another used one 

All searches on google promote software network monitoring, but I dont want to waste electricity on a computer with 2 network adapters that has to run all the time to act as an internet gateway that can monitor via software and also sitting in the dangerous DMZ where hackers would love to gain access to it and use it as a zombie, and a far greater amount of latency than a hardware switch would add.

My broadband connection bandwidth is 20-22 mbps download and 6-8mbps upload. So a used 10mbps switch or hub with this feature that I saw on amazon would be a bottleneck, so I have to stick with 100mbps.Closing this... was CHATTING with a friend and he has an 8-port 100mbps switch he is GOING to GIVE me that has this bandwidth usage display. He thinks its a TrendNet 100mbps switch. He has to dig it out of his closet out of the pile of computer parts he has.

Hi,

Last night, I took an old computer that had XP Pro. on it and downloaded a ton of updates for the OS. Today, it STARTED up fine, but when I tried to uninstall something (Picasa) it froze. I restarted and got the message: Reboot and Select proper Boot DEVICE or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key. This was someone else's computer and I don't have the XP SP3 disc. I also noticed the drive was not showing up in the BIOS.

ThanksCheck to make sure cables are connected and not loose. Seen a bad cable as well as improperly seated HD cable cause this before.

But it sounds like the hard drive may have died if it is not seen by bios. Before SWAPPING drive out, I'd swap the IDE or SATA cable. But if no extra cable is available try a spare hard drive if you have ONE to see if the system will see it.Thanks for the reply. I changed the cable, and while I had the cover off, I could hear the hard drive clicking and making other noises. It sounded pretty bad. "Click of Death"...the drive is getting ready to faik...

Hey,

Recently, i decided to actually buy a headset so i can game with a couple buddies of mine. I plugged everything in, and couldnt GET it to work. I have already checked the forums, and from what I have found, the problems were fixed with THINGS I have already tried. Currently, I have my TV plugged in via HDMI, have windows 7 pro and have done the FOLLOWING:

Made sure "Speakers" are my default playback device and "MICROPHONE" as my default recording device. I have also disabled the audio from all other devices, and used driversweep to uninstal them from my PC to make sure. The device tests positively (having the VOLUME scale go up and down next to it), but no sound comes from the speakers.

Made sure that the board is actually reading the ports as being used. They show up in my Realtek sound device manager, as well as in my bios.

I have also tried the POS windows troubleshooter, which has told me that my devices are working properly.

My guess is that the HDMI is messing with it some how, but I have tried the simple things already. Any help would be appreciated.

ThanksHDMI takes over the audio signal...not sure you can have both active unless the sound device supports it...I know plenty of people who do that though, and are able to switch it off like any other audio output.

Hi;

I have just finished a new build which for a week was working fine the all of a sudden the monitor keeps going black.

The only changes that took place around the time of the problem were installation of windows updates which included Service Pack 1 and the other possible culprit was trying to install Adobe Flash Player 11 which I needed to watch video demos of games in Steam, Adobe downloaded and installed but Steam Videos still didn't work.

I had also swapped the CPU which is an AMD A6 5400K which has a built in APU, although I'm sure that the display worked after this, in fact i'm sure it did.
 
The problem is I cannot pin down what caused the problem.

Monitor: Samsung S23B550VS 23 inch Widescreen LED Monitor, connected to onboard VGA - VGA
Mobo: ASRock FM2A75M-DGS
CPU: AMD A6 5400K
Mem: Crucial Ballistix DDR3 1866 2 x 4GB
PSU: Corsair CX500
Windows 7 64 BitWhen you power on the machine, What do you see?
Also has another monitor been tried yet ? ?This monitor works on my FreeNAS box.Not what i asked...but OK.It might be a problem with your graphics card I have tons of spare's LAYING around so I would just try a different one but if you don't try updating the drivers. Also, if you suspect the OS is damaged, you can try to boot the machine with a 'Live CD" that automatically finds a suitable video driver.
On I  like  is Puppy Linux.
 It BOOTS quick and does not require a working hard drive.
http://puppylinux.org/main/How%20to%20download%20Puppy.htm Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 22, 2013, 01:03:58 PM

When you power on the machine, What do you see?

Also has another monitor been tried yet ? ?

It might be a problem with your graphics card I have tons of spare's laying around so I would just try a different one but if you don't try updating the drivers.

Also, if you suspect the OS is damaged, you can try to boot the machine with a 'Live CD" that automatically finds a suitable video driver.
On I  like  is Puppy Linux.
 It boots quick and does not require a working hard drive.
http://puppylinux.org/main/How%20to%20download%20Puppy.htm

how can I determine whether the video output is coming from the onboard gfx or the built in GPU?

Those are two names for the same thing.

Uh? The onboard gfx I am referring to is the Radeon 7000 built into the ASRock mobo, the built in GPU that I am referring to is the Radeon 7450HD which is inside the AMD A6 5400K CPU. In my limited understanding (having never used the new A Series AMD CPUs) is that these are two discreet GPUs, one on the motherboard and one in the CPU which can both be linked (SLI??) together using AMD dual graphics capability.

 

Hello again.
I currently run under a 2007 white MACBOOK and recently have installed windows XP via BOOTCAMP on it. I USED a program called SMC fan control on my mac and it allows me to adjust my fan speeds see the temp of my CPU and see how FAST my fans are running atm. Is there a program like that for the PC? Let me now IM not happy with the application speedfan. I cant configure it to show me CPU temp it keeps showing me HDD temp. www.hwinfo.com

I've got a Foxconn A76ML-K 3.0 motherboard with a failed RAM module. The computer originally came with two dual channel DDR3-1333's, one of which has failed. So swap out the defective module with a working replacement. One problem though is that foxconn don't list supported RAM and most RAM of this type is 1.8V-1.9V, crucial recommend 1.5V stuff only. Also the REMAINING good module has a bizarre latency of 9-9-9-25 (9-9-9-24 is normal).

So I have no idea what sort of memory this motherboard supports. This is all the information that I can gleam off of foxconn: "Dual channel DDR3 1333/1066 x 2 DIMMs, Max 8GB"
So only dual channel is supported?
What Voltages?
Timing limitations?
Configuration limitations? (E.g. My mobo will not run its RAM full speed with a full complement of modules)

Also on the note of configuration limitations, the mobo in question does not run its memory at the correct speed (even when manually set to) it will only run them at 533Mhz instead of 667Mhz.

This MANUFACTURER is a NIGHTMARE and I have a headache. If ANYONE else would like to take a stab at it, it would be most appreciated.
Wait found a list, Foxconn arrange things very strangly.

http://www.foxconnsupport.com/complist.aspx?models=A76ML-K%203.0&type=MEMORY&Series=en-us0000012

hi i got a new wd hard drive i have connected it to my computer and ive cloned my original drive now i want to change the new drive to the primary one to boot from it as well and access all my files from it but i still want to keep the original there for space.What type of connectors do these HDD's have ? ?
If SATA put the new drive on one of the 1st 2 MBoard SATA connectors...
Some boards it'll be 1 and 2...some will be 0 and 1.

Then move the old drive to SATA 3 or higher...this will stop the BIOS from trying to boot the old drive...you can then format it and USE it for storage.

If they are IDE the new drive should be jumpered as master/master w. slave...and the old one as slave...then CONNECT them accordingly...

MB=====================slave=====master.

You can then enter the BIOS at boot and set the new HDD as 1st boot priority in the ADVANCED options menu...press F10 to "save changes and exit" and the PC will re-boot.Just wanted to state that if she has the older Cable Select type IDE cable then both are set to CS and the position by which it is connected on the cable determines which is Master and Slave. If there is an OPTION CS is the worst choice  IMHO...
Kinda why i included the cabling diagram...as crude as it is.

Hi, when I was trying to remove the GPU from the PCIe slot, I forgot to push down the CLIP. I was trying to pull out the GPU. If the PCIe slot and GPU still works can I forget about it?
It's one of the Asus Sabretooth motherboards.Are you stating you BROKE the clip off ? ?
Many CLIENTS PC's i work on have this piece broken off (guess your not the only one who has done that ) and as long as you make sure the card is firmly seated and the hold down screw is in place you should be OK...
Note: if the PC is ever moved for any reason remember to CHECK the cards seating...Hi, Patio  I have broken nothing on the motherboard. I'm just worried I damaged something like the soldering. The motherboard did start to flex when I was pulling on the GPU. I'm going to see if the board and GPU is working tonight. Thank you.

Sorry if this is the wrong forum.

I just bought a new laptop and I want to put Ubuntu on it. I put the Ubuntu installation CD in the CD drive and went into the BIOS, but in the BOOT device priority, there is no option for CD. I tried another (identical CD) in case it's a problem with the CD, and also tried one of the CDs on my other computer to make sure it works, so I know the problem is not the CD. I also booted Windows on my new laptop to verify that the CD drive works, which it does. It seems to be an issue in the BIOS.

I also tried BOOTING from an Ubuntu installation USB drive. Unlike with the CD, it actually gives me the option to boot from the USB drive. However, it won't load it, so even if I put USB drive as first priority it just skips over it and loads Windows.

This is the model.

I do have the option to 'Add New Boot Option' in BIOS at which point I am prompted to 'Add boot option' (I type it) 'Select Filesystem' (have to select one from a list), and 'Path for boot option' (I type it), after which I can click 'Create'. I tried creating one but I just guessed on what to enter in those fields and it didn't work. The options for 'Select Filesystem' are:
PCI(14|0)\USB(2,0)\HD(Part1,Sig0009E7AB)
PCI(1F|2)\DevicePath(Type 3, SubType 12)HD(Part1,Sig2825be3c-a830-413a-b913-334f17389c83)


Also, not sure if this is of any use, but under 'SATA Configuration' I found some details on the CD drive. Everything under SATA Configuration:

SATA Mode Selection [AHCI] (I can also choose [IDE])

Serial ATA Port 0
Device Type: Hard Disk
Model Name: TOSHIBA MQ01ABD050
Serial Number: Y2ABC19JT

Serial ATA Port 2
Device Type: ATAPI CDROM
Model Name: PIONEER DVD-RW DVRTD11R
Serial Number: SMC2711919


If any other information can be of use, please let me know. Any ideas on how to install Ubuntu (via CD, USB, or any other method) will be very much appreciated. Thank you.I got that taken care of. Turned out I NEEDED the 64 bit version of Ubuntu because my computer uses UEFI instead of BIOS. Now I can boot from CD and am given the option to install Ubuntu. However, when I select Install Ubuntu, I am given a blank black screen. I tried booting from both a CD and a USB drive with the same results, and I tried leaving it for several minutes, and nothing happens. Any ideas? Thanks. Quote from: ShadowVegan on March 04, 2013, 12:25:30 AM

I got that taken care of. Turned out I needed the 64 bit version of Ubuntu because my computer uses UEFI instead of BIOS. Now I can boot from CD and am given the option to install Ubuntu. .... Any ideas? Thanks.

Can you connect a I/O board K9707 to a Asus sabertooth Z77
motherboard. Thanks in advance. Trying to use some older parts in a
rebuild. Don't have the board yet but I do...Simple answer is NO.
That I/O board is only for Dell. It is not a PCI card.
Does the mobo documentation give your reason to THINK is would work?

Why would you WANT to use it? The mobo has good stuff on it.Thank you for the answer. I did not believe it would work
but was hoping to use OLD xps 600 case to rebuild one of my
computers. Got a new i7 3770k for next to nothing and know
I should build around it with comparable new stuff.
You were very kind to answer, thanks.So you are using a Dell case? You can still use the case, but you will have to do some work to use the front panel. If it is only for your personal use, you can find some creative way to connect some front panel features to your new motherboard.

As for the power off-on, almost any push button and be used. It is just a simple momentary switch, it does not latch mechanically.Home use. Many thanks. Some electic synapses
are starting to FIRE, very cool
thanks again

Hello Gents,

I am planning to buy a laptop mainly for practice via virtualization technology, I would like an advice on which Laptop, Make or model is good for virtualization or better suited for VT (Virtualization Technology) and how much I am looking at in terms of expenses ($)?

Looking for a powerful, stable and reliable machine that can run for LONG hours none stop. 

 Thanks everyone.
Please explain what you want to study
Quote

Visualization Technology

VT is not done on a laptop.

I would like to run virtual machines on the laptop, create a small network with two servers and 2 or 3 workstations, I want to use a laptop because I can practice on the go while I am away from home working elsewhere, so a desktop wont do the trick, no wonder the need for a suitable laptop.
I am planning to use VMware Workstation.

My Epson NX300 printer was printing fine when one sheet didn't feed properly. Naturally it stopped and displayed an error message. It instructed me to turn it off, clear the jam and clear all print tasks. I did all this but when I turned it back on it it displayed an error message "General Printer Error". To be sure, I went to Control Panel & made sure there were no jobs in the printer que. Still no success.

Does anyone have an idea as to how I can get my printer back?  I had an Epson C60 that had a planned obsolescence COUNTER chip in it that caused a similar error message, designed to fail after so many prints. But I doubt your problem is caused by this!

But you can run SSC on it to reset the counter and give that a try. This wasn't available back when I owned my Epson C60 and so I threw my printer away which is what Epson WANTED people to do. A Russian Hardware Hacker/Programmer DISCOVERED this and made a tool to reset the counter and bring Epson PRINTERS back to life.

http://www.fixya.com/search/p1287084-epson_stylus_nx300_all_in_one_inkjet_pri/reset_counter

If the paper was able to be removed without any pieces of it torn off and still left inside, there is the possibility that it chipped a gear tooth or killed the motor that is used to feed paper which as a ready state feedback loop that is coming up with an error status. But instead of trying to open this printer to inspect for damaged gears etc, in which this model is likely like other similar modern models that were designed to be throw aways, its likely all snapped together plastic tabs without screws and not meant to be serviced.

I would also blow canned air into it if you can to blow any dust off of optical sensors etc that may be reporting blocked etc, but I am GUESSING if this were the case it would display JAM instead on the display.

I have a maxtor hard drive from 1997---
Model number 87000D8

I am interested in using a hard drive enclosure but I do not know the "type" of hard drive this is (ATA, SATA, IDE, etc). The hard drive is from a very old desktop computer, has a 41 pin connecter.

When I search using google and maxtor (which links me to seagate), that model is listed as having 4 Gigabytes!!!  Perhaps it is correct.

Here is what is printed on the hard drive

model: 87000D8
HDA/Uplevel: 01A
PCBA/Uplevel: 19A
Unique/Uplevel: 1AA
Cylinders: 14475
Heads: 15
Sectors: 63
Jumper : J50
Master/Single: On
Slave: Off
S/N F806RBLA
C,Z,D
A68
12V
5V
Made in Singapore()
P/N 300800
Manufacture Date 09-06-1997


So My question is: Can I put this thing in an external enclosure, and if so, Which one should I get?


Thanks.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]It is PATA,  sometimes celled IDE.
It is a 40 pine connector. Count again.
Here is a search on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=pata+usb+enclosure&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=22368465968&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13871474381608491182&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_6tq1apm2mr_b

This is not an endorsement. It has 41 pins, 20 doubled, and one single towards the middle.
You can use a 40 pin cable on it.
Here is a picture of a MAX tor Drive.
As far as the enclosure goes i'd suggest getting one that has an A?C power adapter...
USB for power is OK but trust me this way saves alot of headaches.
Also it may be worth it to pay a bit extra for 1 that has multiple HDD connecters...mine has both laptop style connectors; SATA and IDE...that way when that older drive dies you wont be stuck with being locked in to an IDE replacement.

Cooler fans are a nice option as well.These 3.5" IDE Hard Drives always require external power source as for USB is only 5VDC and these drives require the 12VDC power. The motor that spins the platters runs on the 12VDC and the A/D logic electronics runs on the 5VDC power.

2.5" Laptop hard drives are the only ones I know of that can be powered off of USB power without an external source, and even then its best to still have an external power source vs getting the power off of USB which can be troublesome.

The only other thing to worry about is jumper position for use in the external enclosure. Most operate on CS ( Cable Select ) however I have had to set a couple older drives that were like 1GB in SIZE to ( Master/Slave Not Present) setting to work back before everything got much simpler with IDE drives down to 3 settings CS/M/S or CS/MA/SL ( Cable Select, Master, Slave ). Quote

2.5" Laptop hard drives are the only ones I know of that can be powered off of USB power without an external source, and even then its best to still have an external power source vs getting the power off of USB which can be troublesome.

Jumper positions should only be an issue if there is an OS installed on the HDD thats placed in the enclosure itself...otherwise it's always treated as a slave drive by Windows disk management.

Hi, Everyone I have a Dell Dimension 2400, and the harddrive that came with it is a 40gb, it works good but I want to clone that hardrive to my new one its 200gbs but i dont know WAY it says unknown device my 40gb shows up but now my 200gb, what can I do to fixs this problem. thanks for looking at my post. The 200G may have shipped unformatted...if so use Disk Management in Windows to format it...
If it really is the BIOS that does not see it then the drive is dead.Ok, because the computer WINDOW xp can not FIND it so it must be a bad drive then, thanks for all your help.I believe the Dell Dimension 2400 uses IDE drives.  You must the jumper properly on the drive in order for the BIOS to recognize it.

Somebody pleeeaaasssee help me. I have passwords on BIOS, com & admin on a tower i recently got given. I have removed the battery, and switched the jumpers. But no matter what I do it makes no difference. I have a DELL OPTIPLEX GX 260.  This is soooo fustratingHow come you are not in possession of the passwords? Can't you ask the PREVIOUS owner for them?
In a normal desktop, BACK in the bad old days, we use a qbasic script to change a byte in the cmos and that forced a cmos reset.

You'll need qbasic.exe from a MSDOS OS or the Win9x cdroms have it too.
I'm sure the same thing can be done in VBS.

Mind you, it is untested on a modern machine and if anything breaks then I can't help you. 


Code: [Select]echo off
echo kill "temp.bas">temp.bas
echo out &h70, &h2e >>temp.bas
echo out &h71, &h00 >>temp.bas
echo out &h70, &h2f >>temp.bas
echo out &h71, &h00 >>temp.bas
echo ? "Done"       >>temp.bas
echo ? "now reboot" >>temp.bas
echo SYSTEM         >>temp.bas
qbasic /run temp.bas

Hello friends,

Lap top info:Dell
WINDOWS 7 ULTIMATE, SERVICE PACK 1
PROCESSOR    I7
RAM    4 GB
SYS TYPE    64 BIT

I work on a schedule of one month on/off, this time when I came home and turned on the lap top, it took a very long time to load.
Then I got this message,\.
Computer was unable to start.
Option: Start windows normal/repair mode. From repair mode.
Start up Repair is checking your system for problems
Then, Start up Repair Fix will automatically fix errors
Then it prompts for a System Restore
Message: attempting repairs
After several minutes, Message: Unsuccessful, windows will start normal and the lap top comes to normal working.

 I hope I have given enough information. This lap top was bought from a Dell outlet, since I misplaced the purchase documents I was not able to ask them to do anything when it crashed about three months ago but had to rely on a computer repair out let who changed the hard DRIVE as it had crashed. THANK you for your time and help which I always got from you kind people with computer problems of the past.  I had a similar issue with my wifes system and am curious as to if you are running Windows 7 SP0 or Windows 7 SP1? My wifes system running Windows 7 SP0 had this same exact issue with every boot the system having to go through a repair process that was unsuccessful and yet would eventually normal boot and run ok. 

  I attempted to bring it to SP1 to SEE if that would correct this and it would not take the Service Pack update. I also ran checkdisk on her system and it came up with 3 files that were messed up SOMEHOW and checkdisk fixed the issues. Rebooted her system and problem was still there.

  I then scanned her system for malware/rootkits etc and it was clean. To fix her computer I ended up having to make (burn) a Windows 7 System Repair (DVD) Disc off my healthy computer running the same version, but different key, of Windows 7 64bit Home Premium, and repair her Windows 7 off of that by booting off this DVD and running the repair process.

  If you have a 2nd computer or a friend with Windows 7 of the same version and a DVD-RW drive, you might be able to burn a Windows 7 Repair Disc DVD and repair your system off of that.

  Thanks Dave, I will get someone to burn a repair Disc. I am running Windows 7 SP1.

Not sure how MUCH of this will really work.  I pulled the Main drives out that had Netware or I gusse had all of it on.  Thing is that I want to setup Windows 2000 Server on it an PUT it back into use.  Thing is that Im trying to get into the BIOS an make sure my settings are right.  The only thing is that Im not sure if the system is setup to have RAID but, I want to WIPE all the drives in the unitAnd ? ?
Are you thinking about a hardware or software solution ? ?
If hardware we need more info...No, I need the right BIOS disk or something to make sure that everything is setup right.  So I can launch the disk that has the Server OS on it.Clear as mud...
I would look up the BIOS settings on the MBoard manuf. website...most have a full Manual available for DLoad in PDF format.This is all I could find that was on there page.  http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DriverDownload.jsp?locale=en_US&pnameOID=15473&taskId=135&prodTypeId=15351&prodSeriesId=50452&submit.y=8&submit.x=10  However, I SEEN people putting linux on these systems

Alright, so I've almost got my new gaming rig all hooked up ... still waiting on the two SLI graphic cards to arrive. I am a little confused about the PSU connections though. I have the 8 PIN hooked up ... and then there is a 6 pin cable. Do I need it to aid with the two graphics cards? If so, there is no where to hook it up on the MB ... that being the case, should I get this adapter?

I've got the 20+4 atx main power cable, the 4 pin atx +12v cable, the 8 pin EPS +12v cable (or maybe it is the 8 pin PCI express cable??) all hooked up. Then there is a six pin cable ... there is no where to put it on the MB, and no it is not the 6+2 I keep hearing of. My INSTRUCTION manual did not include English instructions! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200106

PSU is Raidmax ky-600atx 500w

Adding 2 of these graphics cards ... http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5639261

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128508
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.htmlJason, that link is what I used to describe the ones hooked up.The 6/8 pin from the PSU are for the PCIE power connector of your Video cards. Since the PSU has one 6 and 8 pins only(?), use the Video card supplied power adapters as your 2nd option. http://www.evga.com/support/KnowledgeBase/Default.aspThe Gigabyte motherboard has an 8-pin molex connector.  That must be CONNECTED to the PSU for proper functioning.  The EVGA GeForce 9800GT has a power Y-adapter, with 2 4-pin molex; can't see if they are both pins or one is sockets & the other pins.  If you have extra cables on the PSU, just don't use them.

I have a Dell inspiron N5010 laptop. I created the full backup of the factory image on a USB when I got the computer as instructed. I replaced the hard drive and need to put the factory image back on the computer. I put in the USB and it repartitioned the hard drive and seemed to put everything on the computer. I used the computer for an hour and it WORKED great then needed to reboot. Once I rebooted I get a "windows failed to start" error (see attachment). STATUS 0xc000000e. Anytime I put the USB back in it reformats the hard drive and completely reinstalls everything and it'll work great untill I reboot again...then i get the same error. Any ideas? Thanks



[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]It is asling for the Dell CD for install of Windows XP. Which you do not have?
Did you already try the Dell web site.
http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/software-os/f/3524/t/17334763.aspx
If that does not help, COME back here am I  or somebody, will help.I have windows 7. The computer did not come with the windows CD. It had me create a windows backup on a USB drive before I used the computer. I have used this backup before and it worked. I don't know what I've done differently this time.If you did not  set the write-protect on the stick, a virus could have invaded the device.
But why would you have to use it more that three times? You may have an issue with the PC.
If you have the product key, your scan get an ISO image from r Microsoft.
You will haven to Google it or go to this place:
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windows7/f/download-windows-7.htm

Thee has been a change in MS policy to the effect he MS does not have a Win 7 download for most users. But you still might find is somewhere.

The forum does not endorse  bogus downloads of copyrighted products. Yet MS does make Win 7 available to certain people. (But they now are pushing windows n8.)

You can borrow a legal DVD from a friend, install it with your product key, and return the disc. That is inside the law.
It's not a virus.

Let's make sure the bootloader is correct. Please download and run the FREE version of EasyBCD (http://neosmart.net/EasyBCD/) and check.Hi

What drive did you get as a replacement. My thoughts are that the factory image may not like installing on a much larger hard drive. So the suggestion by Allan to get  that CD and check the boot loader and perhaps the partitioning is a good start. Also check the drive is not set in the bios for auto detect it may be better to run it in IDE Mode to test .

 


Lisa
I can't imagine that the size of the hard drive has anything to do with anything.The new hard drive was bought from dell and was exactly what I had before.
Geek-We had a virus that we couldn't get rid of so we wiped the computer and started over. Then, months later, the computer started acting funny, before we figured out that the hard drive was failing, we tried reimagining the computer several times. Then, after I installed the new hard drive, we put everything back on, so we've used the backup USB several times (all times for our computer).

Allen, I downloaded the EasyBCD last night. What exactly does this do? All I did was downloaded EasyBCD and used it to check what was booting, which it was the C drive windows 7. That is the only thing I did different and now the computer reboots/works like new. Just curious what this program does for future reference? thanks for the helpjpro, You can thank  Allan, the forum moderator. He new what to do.
Here is part of a review of  what EasyBCD can do:
Quote

by: CNET staff on November 07, 2012
A freeware package for noncommercial use, EasyBCD is designed to help manage and control startup operations. It works with the later Windows operating systems, including Vista, Windows 7 and Windows 8, both 32-bit and 64-bit. It also works with Linux and Mac systems.
During installation, you can choose to put an EasyBCD quick-start icon on the desktop. Once the program has started, a window appears with pull-down menus for File, Tools, and Help. Buttons on the left side of the window are for tasks such as system backup, editing the boot menu, and general settings. In addition to its main task of managing the bootup process of the operating system, one of the most useful aspects of this application is the ability to create and manage bootable USB devices, including flash drives. It can also repair boot files and allow booting from your choice of operating systems. There are a few drawbacks to using this software; the menu is not that intuitive and takes some GETTING used to. But once you're familiar with it, it works seamlessly and quickly.
EasyBCD downloads and installs quickly and was stable in our tests. While less experienced users might not have the knowledge to take advantage of all it has to offer, this freeware could be a good addition to any user's toolbox.
Editors' note: This is a review of the trial version of EasyBCd 2.2.
Read more: EasyBCD - CNET Download.com http://download.cnet.com/EasyBCD/3000-2094_4-10556865.html#ixzz2NKpUaZOz

I've got a problem with a Packard Bell that's got me a bit stumped. I think it's hardware based on the symptoms but I wondered if anyone could help with a diagnosis.

It's a Packard Bell iMedia B2619UK base computer, running Windows Vista Home Basic, Intel Celeron Dual, with an nVidia card.

This afternoon, it FROZE abruptly whilst in use, stayed frozen for a short time (can't be sure of time as I wasn't there) before switching off. Ever since, it switches off very soon after STARTUP. When it's been left for a while without being plugged in, it gets as far as the purple Packard Bell screen with details on "Press F2 for BIOS" etc before switching itself off. After that, switching it on sees it SWITCH off progressively quicker each time.

Both the PSU and main fan are working, and the capacitor's all look fine on the motherboard. A friend mentioned the RAM might be the problem - taking the RAM out and starting up issued a long beep before the computer switched off. I have a CD-R with a diagnostic test on for memory, but the PC switches off too quickly to change the boot up to CD.

Essentially it's just cutting out about 10-20 seconds after being switched on, and for the life of me I can't figure out why. I plugged an old PSU and hard drive into the motherboard, and for a few seconds, the main fan started to spin, but died pretty quickly.

Is there anything obviously wrong here that I could check for? Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Quote

Essentially it's just cutting out about 10-20 seconds after being switched off..

hi, thanks for your help in advance. here's what's happening: i have a 1.5 TB external hard drive that i partitioned 250 GB worth of space from, giving me I:> and G:>, the G drive was the smaller 250 gig one, which i formatted from ntfs to wbfs, so i could back up my wii games. well, i've decided not to bother with it and i want to change it back.

so first i thought i'd format the drive back to ntfs, then merge the two together. that process began, ran for a while and gave me an error.

then i thought i'd delete the small partition and extend the large one by 250 GB. that process returned an error.

before i go too far, i thought i'd post and see what someone else thought. i have DATA on the large partition that i don't want to lose, and too much of it to back up on something else, seeing as it IS my backup hard drive.

thanksIt would be best to get another drive to make an exact copy of your data before messing around with making these kinds of changes. Resizing, creating and deleting partitions on a drive with MULTIPLE partitions is best performed when you have a safe backup of your data. Otherwise without a safe backup, you take the risk of losing data.

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i have data on the large partition that i don't want to lose, and too much of it to back up on something else,

I have a Dell with WINDOWS XP on it,and a Kodak esp 3250 All in one printer.The printer won't print from computer.I connected a NEW USB cable,and it still won't print from computer.Do I need to uninstall printer,and reinstall disk?
Thanks, My experience with USB printers when they go funky:
Remove the SOFTWARE from Add/Remove PROGRAMS...
Remove the printer as a device in Control Panel...
Power down...dis -connect printer.
Re-install printer software...it will prompt you when to connect the printer...

That HOPEFULLY should get you back to normal.
                     Thankyou very much,I will try that.
Thanks

My computer does not boot once I disconnect the CD-ROM drive after installing Windows xp. I also tried CHANGING boot priority in the BIOS but of no avail. In BIOS it does show the drive but why does not boot without CD-ROM connected. Please HELP. Quote from: rufusisrael on March 10, 2013, 10:34:21 AM

...I also tried changing boot priority in the BIOS but of no avail...