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Hi my name is John, I'm a noob on this site. I recently was CARRYING my Acer Aspire 7741g-6426 to my car and slipped on a patch of ice. Anyways my computer hit the concrete pretty hard. It was TURNED off at the TIME of drop but I heard a sound after it hit the ground which sounded like parts moving (possibly the hard drive). When I went to power it on I got the power light flashing for a bit but no boot. Then after a bit the computer started to boot (but the screen STAYED completely black) and the fan got really loud and then suddenly SHUT down. Then it tried to boot up again and this time the fan just got medium loud and kept running at that speed but screen is still completely black...
I have taken the computer apart to inspect whether there are any obvious cracks in the motherboard or broken/loose wiring, etc etc but everything looks good in my eyes. I also tried holding down the power key for 1min while the comp had no battery or ac attached and then reconnecting only to ac. Still same. Finally I tried starting it without the hard drive installed and still the exact same set of responses. ANy ideas what might be wrong with it? Thanks for your replies.Your best bet would be to take it to a shop since you found nothing obvious that was loose...
Continuing to attempt to boot is probably doing more harm than good at this point.

I have a HP Photosmart Premium C309g-m printer/copier/scanner, that is about 2/3 years old, wirelessly connected to my laptop running Windows XP.
I recently tried to copy a document only for the printer to churn out a blank piece of paper. I know that all the ink cartridges are not empty (3 are genuine HP but magenta and photoblack are Jet-tec compatibles) but am aware that the printer is not used everyday.
Somewhat puzzled I ran a "clean printhead" operation thinking that the printheads may be a bit dry not having been used for a week. This had no effect. I have not at this stage used the deeper clean function that uses more ink.
I have recently had a paper jam in the printer and thinking this may have caused a PROBLEM, I then tried "Align the printheads". The printer eventually churned out a sheet of paper with a few faint ink marks on it but showed a message on the screen that said "printhead alignment failed". I have tried this 3 times with the same result. (Not unexpected I guess!). I have checked that there is no scrap of paper still stuck in the printheads.
Is there anything else I can do bar taking a screwdriver to the thing or is it terminally broken?
Many thanks folks.I'd TAKE q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol to BOTTOM of ink cartridges, not enough to make a pool of alcohol just to be damp to clean ink off the piezo print head surface of the ink cartridge where the ink sprays out the bottom, and then dry the bottoms with a napkin or paper towel. Then insert the ink cartridges back into the printer and try again. Your printer likely has the blue laser that reads the paper after each pass of print head. It didnt detect the ink since there wasnt enough ink applied to paper and thats why it failed. If this doesnt fix this then you will need to replace the ink cartridges.Many thanks for your DaveLembke. What you have suggested makes sense. I will report back when I have got my hands on some q-tips and rubbing alcohol. I found a SMALL bottle of compact cassette tape (REMEMBER those!) head cleaner labled isopropyl alcohol (another name for rubbing alcohol). It came in a handy dropper bottle which I have used to clean the heads. This seems to have made some difference but running the printer head cleaning operation seems to have eventually emptied two ink cartridges.
At the moment the printer head alignment is still failing but I suspect this is because two of the cartridges have no ink in them and hence cannot be "aligned" as DaveLembke suggests.
My next step is to buy some new cartridges (proper HP ones just to be on the safe side).
Many thanks to DaveLembke for his advice.   Generic cartridges cause this all the time...
If you replace them get the original ones.

Hello all, i am trying to get files from a  HPcompaq, but i cannot get either the mouse or keyboard to work to copy files, does a caddy NEED instructions from the keyboard to copy to another drive ? many thanks.Weneed alot more details on how exactly you are trying to do this...
What is this caddy you mention for example ? ?
Does the HDD boot at all ? ?Hi ,yes computer boots up, caddy is a novatech,havn't purchased it yet .Still not enough info i'm afraid...
If the PC boots up why cant you use the keyboard and mouse ? ?

Again provide as many details as you can on what you WANT to do here...No IDEA, CURSOR STAYS in the middle of the screen and keyboard lights are flashing, hardware wizard appears but i can't get to click on start !

Hey friends yesterday i got a Hitachi Deskstar Hard disk (160 gb) from a friend.wen i conect it to my Desktop (ASus dg41 chipset m/b. 4GB DDR3 kingston Ram,Intel Dualcore original (3Ghz)Processor.
And 450watts new smps power supply)IT show zero bytes in BIOS and not shown in windows explorer,I see it in Device manager,wit zero space.

I reconnect this Hard disk to my friend desktop (Lenova desktop)(Actually he gives me the hard drive to use).In Lenova Desktop it shows the space in windows explorer.And works normally.I try to conect this hdd in several desktop systems bt same result that not showing in win explorer.

Why this is not showing in other desktops(except lenova pc) ?
Is there any way to get it works on any computers.
Plz HELP me Quote

IT show zero bytes in bios and not shown in windows explorer,I see it in Device manager,wit zero space.

Im fairly good when it comes to computer knowledge but this has frustrated me to the point that I brought my less two year old laptop into staples for help. unfortunately after looking at reviews ive noticed that i might have gotten into trouble doing that.

The Problem:
The other day I was SYNCING my iphone in tunes and it froze for awhile so I went to bring up the task manager to end the process. I have windows 7 premium 64bit & when you press ctrl alt del it bring up a different 'display' such as the login, & you choose task manager. Well that 'display' didnt show after a few good minutes, just black with a moveable cursor. So I forced a shutdown. When i turned it back on it would usually say an error during shut down, start up normally? but instead it said error loading operating system press ctrl alt del to restart, so i did, a couple times.. by the third time it said disc read error press ctrl alt del to restart.. Thats all it does now, black screen saying that in the upper left corner. I cant EVEN start it up in safe mode. I tried GOING into BIOS to change the BOOT order but after a couple tries it didnt work and Ive never done that & didnt want to break anything else.. So I enabled a system password incase it is a virus or something hacking me.

I brought it into staples today and I showed them the problem and they said it was most likely the harddrive. I asked about data recovery & he said he'll try. The starting price is 70.00 ; 74.82 after taxes. After they run a diagnostics they will USE the 70 towards whatever service it needs. Im not sure yet what they are going to say, & it seems like this could be anywhere between 200-450 after reading reviews online.

Could anyone determine the computer problem from experience with this exact problem?
Is staples going to rip me off? I havent read good reviews.

I didnt have enough money on my card to pay the initial 74.82 fee so the guy let me go and said we'll just total it all up after.. but say this is too much money or someone can help me fix the problem by myself, do you think I could get my computer back without paying anything except something as a thanks anyway but no thanks? Or if he gives me a load of bull and I battle him with my knowledge ( from you gracious folks! )

Hope someone can help me! If it is easier to email me please do so!  Quote

I tried going into BIOS to change the boot order but after a couple tries it didnt work and Ive never done that & didnt want to break anything else.. So I enabled a system password incase it is a virus or something hacking me.

Hi, for some odd reason when I leave my computer on for around 24 hours it starts to become substantially slower, while all my friends leave their computer on for a couple of MONTHS, PLEASE go easy on me.Exactly WHAT is slow? Please describe the symptom(s) in detail. Basically firefox is the only THING that slows that, it starts to become extremely laggy, and my games as well becomes extremely laggy for an EXAMPLE when i turn on my computer i can run about 70 frames on battlefield 3 and then it drops down to around 30... this is become extremely aggravating because this is a whole new computer, all the parts are upgraded.DLoad and periodically run SpeedyFox...clears the cache and database files...
FFox needs to be closed to run it...
Also check in Tools/Options/Advanced and see what your current cache settings are at...default may not be high enough...I have ccleaner isn't that the same thing as speedyfox?Nope.............. what is the difference Info Here...

Hi people, so recently I have been having this problem. The thing is when i check my available space for my hard rive it says i have 630gb, but when i see my available space in a external gaming program called steam it says i have 745, this is really confusingI wouldn't rely on a steam app to report disk size...
You can DLoad and install TreeSize...free...it's a bit more accurate i'd say than a gaming app...It says that Steam is consuming most of the hardrive space, but strangely enough, I never been on steam since a year ago. I have Norton can that affect anything?DLoad Treesize...Free...
Report back with where the space is being gobbled up.

Also there are better and Free ALTERNATIVES to Norton if you want to make that CHANGE...
Let us KNOW...Thanks for the reply, Steam is consuming all my hardrive space, but like i said i havent downloaded anything recently, could it be a virus? Cause I havent downloaded any software or any prgrams recentlyIf you dont use steam, you can always uninstall the client and the games. * I'd first make a backup of any games you have to the save game files so you can pick up where you left off with any games that save progress. Some games save their progress on steam while others store the save game data locally. If you ever want the client back on the SYSTEM and any games from your licensed game library you can simply re-download and install any you want from your library through steam.

I have yet to see any malware/virus hide itself under steam. Does anyone else have access to this computer who may have decided to download free games through the active client online and eat up hard drive space?

Treesize should be able to show you which games within the steam install are also eating up the most space.

What are you running for antivirus/malware protection?DaveLembke, the thing is, I havent been on steam for like a month now. How can my hardrive lose space now? and i'm using nortonFirst it was

Quote

I never been on steam since a year ago.

I havent been on steam for like a month now.

Torchlight
Torchlight 2
Portal
Team Fortress 2
Counterstrike
Audiosurf
Don't Starve

Hi people, so recently I have been having this problem. The thing is when i check my available space for my hard rive it says i have 630gb, but when i see my available space in a external gaming program called steam it says i have 745, this is really confusing

I currently have a lap top with Windows Vista installed on it and a HP Officejet 6110 All In One PRINTER, Scanner, Copier.  I print stuff from my lap top all the time.  I have a chord that I connect via USB port from laptop to printer.

In the past (several years ago) I was able to scan ITEMS from this Officejet onto a table top PC with no issues that I can recall.  Yet now when I connect my lap top with the same chord and try to scan the Officejet tells me it is unable to connect to the PC.  I tried printing something from my laptop and had no problems.  Tried to scan again and I got the same notice that Officejet cannot connect to PC??

I'm not sure if there is something wrong or if I just don't know what I'm doing......either one is equally possible as I am pretty clueless when it COMES to computers etc!

Thank you so much in advance for your anticipated REPLIES!Welcome to CH.

Have try to remove the software anbd install it again? That might solve the problem

On the other hand, HP printers, as well as others, are sensitive to USB cable problems. These problems are seldom reported by the software.

Some things to check.
Are both the printer and the laptop connected to the same power strip? (Failure to do lthis could cause a component failure at any time.)
Is the cable the one that came with the punter?

Hee is a typical response you might get from HP:

Quote

... Try another usb cable. Sometimes they go bad.
Connect the printer to another PC, even a notebook. to see if the operating system responds to it  That will test both the cable and the printer.
Normally it is not a printer problem. Southbridge chips on motherboards do fail and even BIOS have issues. Please try one or both of the tests to isolate and discover which device  ...

I just got a NEW monitor but i cant get the picture to go full screen at 1920x1080. I have already tried the display settings and catalyst CONTROL CENTER but nothing works. Here is my build:

Amd phemom 955 3.2
Asus m4a88td with ONBOARD ATI Radeon 4250
8gb corsair ram
Corsair 650 psu

Is it fixable or do i have to upgrade my card?Did you check to see if the monitor has adjustments on it as well ? ?
Which monitor ? ?it is a dell st22.  I believe 22inch.Check control panel - Appearance and Personalization. Look for recommended and aspect ratio.He may not be on Win7...

Hi there my laptop currently have some weird issues.

my laptop shut down without bluescreen. It HAPPENED randomly. I dont think it should

be overheating problem because i've just applied new thermal paste and keep an eye on

the core temperature.
The randomly shut down occurs more during starting up the laptop. It normally shuts

down few time before i reach the logon screen. However,  it STILLS shuts down when

i'm in normal use like surfing the web, downloading, or even when i did nothing.

windows event viewer log shows kernal-power, 41(63).

besides, there's issue where my laptop cant power up using battery now. The battery

still working when i start up using adapter and then take off the adapter.
I'm not sure whether this two issues are related.First question - was your laptop doing this before you "just applied new thermal paste"?

My Acer 5740G will ocassionally just cut out for no reason, but not OFTEN enough to be a problem.

Have you tried reseating everything? You could have dislodged a component.yes, it happens before i applied new thermal paste.
i've tried PUTTING my harddisk to my FRENS laptop(same model with mine) which run just fine.
besides, i've tried putting my frens battery on my laptop to try and boot up with battery, failed.

Hi,

Can i simply USE any wifi card in a laptop as LONG the slot fit?
Do i need to check for other compatibility?

THANK you for advice.
JEFF
No, UNLESS you have specific details about compatibility. Laptops come in a wide variety of configurations. Please gee the make, model and OS of yours.

Or you might be able to use a USB wireless adapter.Thanks mate, i UNDERSTAND it now.

i was erasing a disk from my dvd writer and the process was completed but the disk was still spining and when i TRIED to eject the disk it was hanged........therefore i switch off my pc and wen i switched on my pc i found that in device manager my optical drive is shown in hard disk list and in optical drive list nothing is shown i checked with speccy and same HAPPENED and wen i oped nero to write or erase it shows no device.............please HELP mePlease post a screenshot. Usually, optical DRIVES are under DVD/CD drives only. Please CHECK also the BIOS section.

Hi

I have just bought a HP Mini netbook and I wondered if anyone could tell me whether I can upgrade to 4GB of RAM? I have read on the HP website that it only supports 2GB RAM but conflicting information on the net has said that it will be fine to use more. What would happen if I did upgrade it to 4GB? Any help you can provide would be appreciated

Many thanksGenuine Windows 7 Starter 32 won't support more than 2GB of RAM.Thanks for the reply. So if I upgraded the netbook to 64 bit would it then accept 4GB RAM? Many thanksIf your CPU is 1.9 GHZ Intel Atom N2800 it's a 64-bit cpu, so it is able to run 64-bit Windows.
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Atom/Intel-Atom%20N2800.html

However, specs say:  Memory Max   Supports up to 1 GB DDR3 (1 user accessible)
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&docname=c03247352Thanks for taking the time to post those links. So basically if I upgrade to 64bit windows would I be able to upgrade to 4GB RAM even though HP's recommendations are different? Many thanksNo...it means if that is your PC in the 2nd link it'll only take 1G of RAM...no matter what OS is installed...From a UK RAM seller (Offtek)

HP-Compaq Mini 210 Netbook

System Specifications

Standard Memory         1024MB Removable
Maximum Memory         2GB
Number of Slots         1 Slot (1 Bank of 1)
        
FAQ - hp-compaq Mini 210

Q : What type of memory do I have installed ?
A : See memory specifications below
Q : What is the maximum memory I can install?
A : 2GB
Q : How many memory slots do I have and are there any free ones?
A : 1 Slot (1 Bank of 1)
Q : Does more than ONE module need to be installed at a time?
A : No
 Thanks for the replies. I guess what has confused me is the conflicting recommendations on how much RAM you can use. Some say 1GB and others say 2GB which made me question whether 4GB could be installed? Would you guys recommend me simply using 2GB and leaving it at that? ThanksSounds like there were different versions of that model #...
Travel to crucial.com and run the online scanner...
Post the results.The specs STATE max RAM is 1 GB. The service manual says max Ram is 2 GB. Of course if you had the money you could buy a 4 GB module and a 2 GB module and if the larger one didn't WORK, try and sell it to somebody else

some things I found - I am not saying "go for it", you have to decide.

HP forum:

Quote

I just came across a HP Mini 210-4120ea used on Ebay, the seller has added a 4 GB ram card

I have read that the only atom processor to support 4GB of ram is the N2800

HP Mini 210-4125sa netbook is powered by Intel Atom N2800 dual-core processor

My Toshiba Satellite laptop computer does not play any DVD's. It does not play DVD RW or store bought DVD's. I am in the UK in region 2 and bought the computer at Curry's. Both my husband and I are experiencing the same issues. We put a DVD in and then it spins in the tray and nothing. Below is my computer information:

Toshiba Satellite Laptop PC
AMD E-350 Processor 1.60GHz
6.00GB (5.60GB Usable) RAM
64-bit operating system
Windows 7 Home Premium
Service Pack 1
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM
GT30N SATA CdRom Device
DVD RW DRive (E:)

I access: control panel>hardware and sound>AutoPlay
I've selected Auto Play for all MEDIA and devices.
For DVD MOVIES it has a pull down menu to choose what I want the DVD to play on:
Windows Media Player
Nero MediaHub10
Open folders to view files using Windows Explorer
Take no action
?Ask me everytime

I also have a Windows Media Center where DVD's can be played but I have had no luck there either.

I need replies to be in the plainest language possible as I am not experienced in computer jargon. Thank you for any help you can be. Welcome to the forum.

From your post it would seem that the Auto Play feature is NOT the main issue. In stead, the Windows Media Player can not play DVDs.

Do you have another computer that can play the DVDs ? Do you have any kind of DVD machines that can verify your DVDs are good?

You might be able to use a Media Player that is more tolerant.  Below is a link to a site that claims to have found ALTERNATIVES to the WMP (Windows Media Player).

http://www.anewmorning.com/2008/10/25/10-best-alternatives-for-windows-media-player/

The top recommendation is VLC Player and that is what I use on Windows 7 64 bit.

Still, you may have some other issue. Please respond. Somebody here must know the answer.Sounds to me like the DVD player has GONE South...
Can it read a simple data DVD in Windows Explorer ? ? Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 28, 2013, 01:25:15 PM

Welcome to the forum.

From your post it would seem that the Auto Play feature is NOT the main issue. In stead, the Windows Media Player can not play DVDs.

Do you have another computer that can play the DVDs ? Do you have any kind of DVD machines that can verify your DVDs are good?

You might be able to use a Media Player that is more tolerant.  Below is a link to a site that claims to have found alternatives to the WMP (Windows Media Player).

http://www.anewmorning.com/2008/10/25/10-best-alternatives-for-windows-media-player/

The top recommendation is VLC Player and that is what I use on Windows 7 64 bit.

Still, you may have some other issue. Please respond. Somebody here must know the answer.

whats wrong with my flash disk?
it cant be formatted or readed,
see the attachment image,
if the windows says it doesnt connected properly
it connected properly, the flashdisk had a led light and when connected, it glows,
if the windows says it read only,
its not read only,
i wonder if my flashdisk had damage on its firmware or hardware?



[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]This problem is not uncommon on PORTABLE flash DRIVES. It is often a RESULT of improper physical removal techniques by the user.One should always only remove these devices via the "safely remove " option or when the COMPUTER has been completely shut down.There are free software programs AVAILABLE that offer to recover files from those devices. However my experience is that if a format of the device is not possible recover chances are poor to nil.Sorry,truenorth So u mean, i had to buy a newer one?Just to ensure we have our facts right please post back with the make and model of your "flash disK" and the same for your computer.truenorth

Hi, I have an Acer Aspire 5749z-4148 and the keyboard on it no longer works. i am using a portable keyboard now just plugged into the USB. the mousepad still works but not the keyboard itself. the only button that responds at all is my "caps lock" key. when i push it the letter "a" apears which is strange. nothing else works. this laptop is only a little over a year old and i have malware and virus protecters and i have run many scans and it says that my COMPUTER is clean. i have tried restarting it many times without teh battery ect and nothing. iv even reset to an earlier date and still no keyboard activity. could you please help me as the problem OCCURED almost 1 week exactly after my warranty expired Please see if the solution offered on this other forum helps. The one by "WR2"
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/74759-35-acer-aspire-5532-keyboard-working-properly
Please come back and TELL us your results.truenorthNo nothing worked. I think the keyboard itself is damaged I'm going to try and take it out and replace it on Saturday and see if that worksIf you haven't yet committed to the replacement purchase and seeing as you are not intimidated to remove the current one. Once you have it out try cleaning it well and depending what is visible look for a stuck key or something that looks out of place or bent. If not then try the replacement.good luck,truenorthThanks. I don't know much about the hardware of a laptop so I have a friend going to look at it for me because he does know alot about them. Hope the "friend" is successful and as a result the friendship is enriched  .Keep us informed as to your progress.truenorthHaha. Ya he took it apart and SEEN there was something spilt on the keyboard so the keyboard got fried but everything else is fine. He is pricing new ones for me. Great hopefully you will be back in business soon.truenorth

On startup, my COMPUTER gives me the CMOS checksum error- Defaults loaded. I can press f1 to continue and DEL to enter setup, but my keyboard with a ps2 connection has partial control with only the delete, escape, scroll lock, and numblock keys working, at least to my knowledge. I can press delete to get into the bios, but i cannot control anything from there. I have ALSO tried another keyboard with a usb connection and got the same results meaning that the problem does not lie with the keyboard.

To fix the problem, i have replaced the bios battery and also reset the CMOS using the jumpers. This obviously didnt work as i would not be posting this. I know that if i can somehow communicate with the bios, i can set it to stop "halt on error".

I am currently using a p5n- d ASUS motherboard and from what ive read my other specs shouldent be necessary, though if you would like them i will gladly provide them.

Please offer any suggestions before I consider replacing the motherboard.Stop fooling with the keyboard or you will damage it. The default settings for your motherboard GOS for the standard PS/2 keyboard.

Don't use a reset switch, if you system has one. You must power off fully and power on to start the BIOS power on self test.

Make sure you put the battery in the right way. The right battery is a 3 volt battery. Whoops, I did not do all the reseting in one sitting. I made sure to turn the power off, unplug the power CORD, hold power button, and take measures to not shock my motherboard. After that i reseated the battery, that did not help, so i replaced the battery. After that didnt work, I tried to reset using the jumper cables. Whenever i replaced, reaseated, or even touched my computer i made sure to take the necessary precautions.

The battery was installed right because after consecutive boot ups with the new battery the time did not reset meaning that the the battery is doing its job, at least, I hope.OK.
Now does the BIOS keep the right time? The CMOS battery keeps both settings and the real time clock. If the time is not right, the battery is not working right.

Make some small change to the BIOS settings to see if it keeps your changes. Like maybe change the boot order of hard drive, floppy and CD-ROM. This is just to see if it holds the changes.

Youneed to be sure the replacement battery is good. A small voltmeter will tell.

It is very possible you have some other problem. Maybe a failing power supply.I would change the BIOS settings but my keyboard does not let me use any of the arrow keys and ive tested this on other keyboards as well. The time seems to just start ticking once I reset it and does not display the actual time, so that could mean the battery was installed incorrectly. I tried reseatting it again and nothing changed except for another reset on the time.

The battery is an exact copy of the old one, 3v and same size, only made by a DIFFERENT brand.

Hey.

Im looking for some help.

I brought a Espson Expression Home XP 202 Printer a little while ago and I have had nothing put problems with connecting it to my smart phone and tablet for printing. I have set it up to connect with my computer and it is all running fine in that respect.
Accoring to the manual I need to select Mobile Print Services Setup in the installer menu but this never seems to be one of the options and I also need to register to create a Epson Connect Account. Again you WOULD think this would be easy but  there are also no options to carry this out...
Has anyone had any dealings with this printer before and any advice on where on earth I am going wrong. The manual and the Computer never have the same options.You do not indicate your county of ORIGIN so access to the Epson support people may or may not be a problem. As a long time user of a variety of Epson printers i have determined a few facts about them. Their products are GENERALLY very good.Their telephone tech support during the warranty period has been good.If as you say this is a recent acquisition then more than likely you are still within the warranty period. That entitles you to free tech support. Given that this is a very specific printer which is very new to the market your CHANCES of finding someone with familiarity with it is probably very limited.I am providing the link to their U.K. web site which includes access to all their functions (including contact information/manuals/drivers/etc). I would suggest you CALL them at an available phone number and with the printer on and the device handy that is giving you the problem have them walk you through the process.
http://www.epson.co.uk/gb/en/viewcon/corporatesite/products/mainunits/overview/11504
truenorth

A friend gave me a dead HP dv9816nr. I am trying to revive it. The first thing I noticed was that the secondary hard drive was removed. No probs, the primary one was still there. The second thing I found was that there were no RAM chips. $72 later, I had 4GB in the slots. I charged it up and powered it on to see what was there. It could not find the hard drive. I thought maybe I was wrong, so I moved the hard drive to the second slot, went to the diagnostics on the f10, and it now asked me if I wanted to CHECK the secondary hard drive. I did, for giggles, and the hd checked out perfect. I burned the 64-bit OEM version of Linux Mint Cinnamon, and put it in the DVD drive(I had already put it at the top of the boot from list. The disc turned a few rounds, then the light went out. I WAITED to see what would happen, anyway. It restarted itself a few times then got past the HP screen to The NVIDIA Boot messages- PXE-E61: Media Test Failure. Check cable. I checked to make sure the DVD was fitted into its OUTLET correctly, tried again- same results. I've also noticed that the only functions I can use from the HP boot screen is the f10 and esc buttons. None of the other options work. I believe that the BIOS is fubar'd- that maybe some virus got through to the BIOS, but I'm not sure. Any help would be greatly APPRECIATED! Also, Phoenix VF.2A for the BIOS or PhoenixBIOS 4.0 Release 6.1. Message on that screen says "No TPM or TPM has problem" System BIOS shadowed (what does that mean??). PLEASE HELP!! The computer I'm using right now is an old Compaq Presario V2140US that I have permanently attached to a laptop fanpad, and sometimes it STILL overheats! I have lost a lot of data, and once had to reinstall the OS- losing ALL my data because she shuts down at very inappropriate times!The optical drive is probably shot...
I'd also replace the CMOS battery...
Try a new CD drive...and a new HDD...

PS...BIOS's dont get shot...and dont get infected either.This time I will agree with patio.   

Also, missing RAM work indicate it was gutted.

If you are not a hardware type, may I suggest you sell the things for parts and invest in something that at least WORKS.

Hello. I have looked this problem up on the internet, yet none of the answers have been of much help to me. So now I turn to the experts. Recently my external hard drive (500gb, 400GB free space, Seagate Expansion Portable Drive) has come up with what SEEMS to be a common error: "Windows Explorer has stopped working." I go into my hard drive and FIVE seconds later the error message pops up, then it goes 'windows explorer is restarting.' All my icons DISAPPEAR for a moment then reappear and my external hard drive has shut down. It never used to do this before - it's just started doing it a few hours ago. My computer is a Windows 7, and the antivirus I use is bullguard (if it's of any use.)
I scanned my device for malware or errors but it says there's nothing wrong. Keep in mind this is only on my external hard drive. It never happens anywhere else on my computer.
Your help is greatly appreciated!

~SekiDoes this external HD have its own power supply? I believe it does.

Some uses report the segregate drives can fail after a few months. That should be rare, but I have seen that in more than one credible place.

If the drive is inside of warranty , take it back now!

But if the problem is the power and interface, you can test the HD by putting it into a desktop PC as the slave drive, or secondary drive.

A new enclosure is about $30 here in the USA.
That's similar to an annoyance I'm having with W7 and an internal drive in a desktop. If I have more then one web page up and use the X to close one of them, then after it's gone a window pops up saying IE has failed. This happens almost every time under these conditions, yet the other web page(s) continue doing just fine.

It's more of a bother then anything, but THOUGHT I'd mention it seeing the problem above. Do you have the ability to try this external on a different computer?truenorth

My HP desktop computer - just 6 months old - fell on it side when I accidentally pulled on its power cord. The screen went all fuzzy and I panicked and unplugged its power. It would not even start to boot Windows 7 so I opened it up and saww that the cord was a little loose to the hdd. I reinserted it and the computer booted up fine but it went real slow so I tried to restart but it would not boot again. It hangs on the Windows booting THING then restarts and asks if I want to try to launch startup repair. It starts to load files then sometimes it just goes BLACK and other times it says that the boot disk cannot be found or something like that. Please help me. I am sick to my stomach. I bought it from Costco.com but am unsure of how the warranty there works and cannot go more than a day or so without my computer. I am crying. Please help...You broke it. There are no easy fixes for this. If the warranty does not cover accidental damage or careless treatment, you will have to pay for repairs.


Great help. I "broke it?" Never mind. I am sorry that I chose this place to ask for assistance and/or advice. Bye. Quote from: button-nose on FEBRUARY 03, 2013, 09:24:33 AM

...I bought it from Costco.com but am unsure of how the warranty there works and cannot go more than a day or so without my computer. I am crying. Please help...

Great help. I "broke it?" Never mind. I am sorry that I chose this place to ask for assistance and/or advice. Bye.

I am crying.

Hello, so I have a laptop about a month old. An hp envy m6-1105dx running windows 8 and when I turn on the computer, it stops at the hp logo until I push a button(any random button). Then it goes to the logon screen. It doesn't matter how many times I RESTART, it still DOS it. I even tried restoring the computer to factory settings, and It didn't solve my problem. Why am I having to push this button all of a sudden? It wasn't doing this before until a few days ago. PLEASE help.What's the problem.?  After all. it is windows 8.

Seriously, you need to TAKE it back to where you bought it.
They gave you a warranty, use it now. I'd go into bios and unhide the post info to see what the message is. Computers dont normally just pause for any key to be pressed. Maybe your not seeing the whole picture of the problem and selecting to show details will shine some light on the situation.

I do agree with Geek-9pm on if it has a warranty to bring it back, but going into bios will not void warranty and you might know why its having this issue if the post info is shown vs hidden behind the logo splash screen.

i use asus eee 1215b notebook.from the beginning it had heating problem.then i went to servicing centre.after that i didn't have problems for last 6 months.i use it on table above a book so that fan get enf space.but now mypc goes just shut down.specially in ac mode.when i use battery it runs for 3 4 hrs but when i connect the ac cabble just gets power off.i used avast antivirus .it detected no virus.then i installed avira trial,it detected few threats ,i deleted.what may be the problem,in battery mode it wrks fine(but rarely gets off)but in ac mode its just power off.what might be the problem??ac plugg??but it can charge the battery fine and battery works fine,please help...There could be a variety of reasons why this is HAPPENING. Worst case scenario an internal short where the power connects to the motherboard. However there are a couple of things you can try 1st.
1.With computer off.Remove the battery.Unplug the power at the computer from the charger. Depress and hold the power on button on the laptop for at least 30 seconds.Connect the power to the computer via the charger plug (no battery in at this point).If the computer starts and boots reinstall the battery. Report to us your findings.
2.I am aware of your testing of the charger unit. However if you have access to another charger that is exactly the same power output try that. If the result is the same problem then it can be a short either within the circuitry of the power system at any point starting at the connection point of the charger unit.Given that you state that you can still use the charger to charge the battery (which i assume is with the charger plugged in but the computer off) then it is less likely to be at the plug in point. truenorthDoes it do the exact same thing it it's on A/C with the battery removed ? ?
LET us know...yes gets shut own with ac mode,battery removedi removed the battery,ac cabble,holded power button for 30 s,then re connected only power supply,nothing happened,then released the power button  and pushed it again laptop got on,nothing happened,but for first 2 times while i performed the test pc behaved abnrmlly lke refresh taking long times,couldnt close firefox etc..fahim9435, Please do not take offense but it is (at least for me) extremely difficult from your last post to understand what you are trying to tell us.It seems that the computer does work sometimes. But  i am not sure when.I suspect that english is not your mother tongue and that is why your post is HARD to read.We genuinely here at CH try to help as much as we can however it may serve you better if you can  find a forum in your language where comprehension is not PART of the problem. In this case we are trying to help you with now if you can try to break down the actions of what you did and in each case what the result was we can perhaps get a clearer picture.truenorth

This Velocity has an Intel DX58SO AA E29331-404 MB. APC protected it from a power outage this morn. but now I have problems after trying to start it this evening. Get 3 long beeps on start, then the comp. automatically shuts off and restarts. Hard Disks did fire up initially (I have restarted it about 6 times now with vid. cards out then in, keyboard unplugged then plugged) now they do not show a run light at all. Is this a PS issue or do I get out the shovel and start digging?Power supply.Geek-9PM,
Thanks! But how about a recomendation on the PS or can't I go wrong?Borrow one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there overnite...you'll KNOW by morning.So here is what I pulled, (see attached) no, the supply cords do not unplug. They just dissapear inside the beast. Guess I'll go to Microcenter and see if they have a power and cable match, right?

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]What is the model number?
If it is the low end model, it may not be worth the effort.  It's a Edge Gx440..bought on discount for 1,200 from Microcenter probably in 2008. It's a 550 Watt P.S.
Unit has always has finicky sound issues and memory slot trouble as well, so maybe I'll toss it for the good that's out there now. Seems a buyer has to pay attention to the processor and M.B. components more than ever and I always felt that the RealTec Sound component on the MB had its issues. Sounded great, just couldn't "play well with others" and the options out were limited to the 5.1 speakers. So, any thoughts on a stable MB would be appreciated. (I am going to go with NAVIDIA for a Vid. Card this time).All I do is TV to the computer with my own Cable Card TV unit and a driving GAME: GTR3 (1.8GHz, 1.7 GB HD, 512 Ram DirectX 8.1 needed).
In other words whaat would you do? Quote from: Thomas Bailey on January 30, 2013, 05:16:58 PM

So here is what I pulled, (see attached) no, the supply cords do not unplug. They just dissapear inside the beast. Guess I'll go to Microcenter and see if they have a power and cable match, right?

hi. i recently installed.win 7 on my desktop and now my dvd burner doesnt burn or play movo
ies and it use to be fine. it either freezes or just doesnt work and now i cant see it under device manager. please help. also whenever i play movies online or download and.play them its really SLOW and skips alot. please helpIn the case of win 7 often the chipset drivers required are part of the operating system cd. However not always. It appears that this may be what is causing your issue. Did you run a compatibility check before installing the win 7 o/s from whatever o/s you had on there before? You may also need to install updated audio/video drivers. However you must always start with the chipset drivers. These drivers are on the motherboard cd that CAME with the COMPUTER or can be obtained either from the manufacturer of your computer or the motherboard manufacturer.truenorth

Have a Velocity PC 64 bit with Windows 7 and I'm trying to bring the machine back from a electrical spike and change of the P.S. unit as a result. When I run the Start up Disk from the CD ROM (won't boot from HD) and select dif. options for loading drivers \ or Back up (using GENIE Timeline) I keep getting " Specified location does not contain information about your hardware. Treid to load the Velocity Driver CD and select boot drivers or anything from that and I get the same warning. As an important "side issue" I have 2 HDs and I broke the pins for the interface conector as I was wrestling withthe power cords. Disconnected the drive so I am just using the other. Restarted with repair disk (Bios set for CD boot 1st)

Machine on boot loads Windows files (black screen) then then Microsoft Corp load logo and always to the Sys. Rec. Options window dialog Box> load drivers> I insert the Velosity Drivers CD and I get the Red X that the locatiion does not contain info. on Hardware. Tried booting from the Windows 7 software OS and NOTHING will load due to same Red X waring on the hardware ont being present.
I cannot run a system image either from the Genie timeline. Get a yellow ! telling me to attach the HD and try again.
Are both Hard drives gone as well as my P.S. (which I replaced)?
I had to replace the battery as well. To determine the functionality of the HARDDRIVES you could temporarily connect them to another computer and see if they are readable and recognized. Depending on whether they are sata or ide there are differences as to the manner of attachment and possibility of settings changes required on the added HDD. I think you need to determine if they have been damaged before you can proceed. If you need help on doing this just ask and we'll come a runnin.truenorthThe HD and CDRom drives are fine. I can't start in Windows mode, Safe Mode. The only way I can get to any Windows O.S. is by putting the CD in for Vista or Win. 7 and boot from those, install, then after an install the screen SHOT of everything (files, features and updates loading, completes install then shuts down/ restartss and di get: Red X with: The Comp. restarted unexpectedly. Or encountered a prob. Windows can not proceed. Restart now to continue install. I restart and:Windows can't complete the installRestaart to continue.
At one point I did get a Blue Screen with about 1200 characters telling me that the computer would shut down to prevent damage to the comp.  and it restarts automatically. And that can't be good. Where do I go from here?Never ever give up: turned out the boot order of my CD Drives is now different. So I thought I would try the Win.7 upgrade disk in the opposite CD than I had used for yrs. as the 1st CD and it WORKED! I am now installing the updates to the system. Now, all I have to do is get ride of the other 3 Vista installs that are not complete but take up space on my HD. I think all is good as I download 134 more udates......I do agree re the "never give up". Yes sometimes the simple things are overlooked. Well done hopefully the problem you posted is behind you. However don't let your guard down there will be others. I just turned on a computer today(hadn't been turned on in at least 3 years) that started out as a BIOS password issue. Solved that to find "primary disc drive unavailable".Could be many reasons for that so onward and upward.truenorth

Hi everyone,
Pls i want to know whether if i can use or if it is possible to use any power supply on any machine at all?
I need help urgently.

Computer Specification:
Pentuim 4
Harddisk 100GB
RAM 1GB


Regards
~AbrahamThe short answer is NO. The primary considerations are the power demands created by the components of the PARTICULAR computer (quite variable).One would be ILL advised for instance to place a power supply output capability unit in that is not equal to or greater than the one for which the computer requirements DEMAND (usually what came with it or what components are used to build it). Also the physical size and dimensions of a PSU can be unique to a specific computer. Certain manufacturers purposely CREATE such conditions where only their own PSU units will fit. Also certain computers may use connection terminals that are unique to their product and could eliminate or restrict required connections in another computer.Out of curiosity why are you asking this question?truenorthTruenorth is correct. Just be aware that when PSUs fail they can damage other components.

In your case I recommend a PSU of 300W or greater given the specs you have supplied.

The questions you need to ask/answer are:
Is there a graphics card involved? If yes then step up the wattage to at least 450W
Is the PSU ATX form plugs?
Does the PSU have the auxiliary Pentium 4 4-pin connector on it? (Any PSU you can buy today will have one, this question is more for using an older supply.)
Does the replacement PSU physically fit my case?

after ticking all of those, then you can safely say the PSU will work for you.

Hi,

Please check the video i posted :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejoFyMg5wNM&feature=youtu.be

The video shows exactly what the PROBLEM was.
Open any browser, IE or Mozilla Firefox then the screen keep shaking but when you close it the desktop shows fine display.
This happened even after newly FRESH format, no virus detected.

Before formatting it, the laptop comes with password logon.
What i noticed that time, once the password screen shows up the button //////////////////// will fill the password section.
So, i need to backspace to cancel the auto /////////// that fill the password section.
I think the keyboard start to malfunction.

Expert opinion needed here , all thoughts are welcome and thank you for your time helping.
JEFFYour keyboard has the F11 key stuck down. Obviously it isn't physically stuck down which means there is damage to the keyboard itself. You will need to get a keyboard replacement to sort this out.Thank you, YES i did realize it now.

Have a nice day!
JEFFGlad to be of help
Your local COMPUTER repair shop will be able to give you a quote estimate on a new keyboard + fitting.
A good day to you too!
KurtisIt's kinda hard to find the keyboard for Asus Eee Seashell SERIES 1015B here.
If anyone found a reasonable price that can be shipped to Malaysia, i would like to know.

Thank you all,
JEFF

My computer was working fine up until 3 days ago, I only noticed the change when I went to watch something. It was working fine until 2 minutes into the movie and then my whole computer froze, not just the internet browser but everything, I left it for a while thinking it would return to normal but it didn't, it was still the same hours later. Not even the keys on my keyboard worked. I unplugged it as I couldn't shut it down, and when it restarted, it returned to normal. However, whenever I'd watch something the same thing would HAPPEN and I'd be forced to unplug it. Now though, whenever I do ANYTHING, such as uploading, downloading, INSTALLING, opening up applications (safe normal ones) it'll do the same thing and stop all together, like freeze. I even wiped everything off my computer, restarting the whole system or whatever it's called, and it seemed to be working fine but after a few minutes the same thing happened again. I've lost all my important files because of this. Also, whenever my computer reboots it won't start properly, the light on the side of the moniter keeps flicking orange and the same old ''no connection'' or whatever shows up beforehand. I've tried so many things but nothing seems to work.First of all, STOP UNPLUGGING THE SYSTEM TO SHUT IT DOWN. That is a shock to all electronic COMPONENTS. All you have to do is press and hold the power button. It will eventually shut down.

Second, please run diagnostics on both the ram and the hard drive:

To check the ram, download memtest (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot order in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility.

To check the hd, download Seatools for DOS, burn it to a CD and run it: http://www.seagate.com/support/internal-hard-drives/consumer-electronics/ld25-series/seatools-dos-master/I know not to unplug it without shutting it down but I had no other choice but it, I had my finger on the shutdown button for ages but it still stayed in the same stance.I know this is going to seem like I am trying to fob you off, but if this really is URGENT then your fastest route to getting it fixed is to take it to your local computer repair shop. Though from reading your original post - assuming you only did a quick format and not a full format - If you want to possibly recover any of your important data, stop using the computer immediately. The more it is used, the less likely data recovery can be.

We could GO through the steps:
Overheating
PSU
Capacitors on the motherboard
HDD
etc

I am going to place my bet on the motherboard itself. Does the same condition occur if you simply leave it on the BIOS screen? Or in safe mode?

This may be really noobish, but I just wanna know if all of these parts are compatible, and if I have all that I need.

Bump?Not a good idea to "bump". It could work to your disadvantage.Patience is required. We are all volunteers here with additional lives.truenorth Quote from: truenorth on February 05, 2013, 03:26:40 PM

Not a good idea to "bump". It could work to your disadvantage.Patience is required. We are all volunteers here with additional lives.truenorth

Agreed. Bumping can get you answers, but they may not be the kind you wanted.

Hey everyone,

I have a 1 TB Western Digital My Book Essential hard drive (Model WDBAAF0010HBK-NESN) that was dropped today. As a result, the mini-USB port on the back of the hard drive broke off. As far as I know, the HDD itself is fine. I was on chat a while ago and the admin "lostcoast" told me that I should buy a new case for it, but then he refused to answer the rest of my questions and kicked me from the chat. Can someone please tell me what I should do to fix my hard drive? I have over 400 GB of stuff on that hard drive and some of it is irreplaceable. Since you now have nothing to lose you could remove it from the case and put it in another USB enclosure. Inside the case is a 3.5 inch SATA drive, and USB enclosures for these are plentiful and cheap.

Or you could just get another USB-to-SATA adapter and fit that inside the WD case. The second of the two articles below will make this clear I hope.

(1)
Opening A WD Elements 1tb desktop Hard Drive

"If you use an exacto knife or something similar you can slide in on the bottom around the seem. I just went all the way around with that, and then did it again but gently pried outward a bit, and it popped off. "

(Just words)

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1034973418

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

(2)
Western Digital Elements External Hard Drive Disassembly

"You can find a seam on the bottom of the drive, all around the edge. If you slip a miniature flat-head screwdriver, you can easily pry the enclosure apart"

"After pulling the 2TB hard drive out of the Western Digital case, I was able to use it with an USB adapter and within a Seagate USB case. So the internal hard drive is REALLY just a normal hard drive."

(Words and pictures)

http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Western%20Digital%20Elements%20External%20Hard%20Drive%20Disassembly

I know the label on the drive in the picture shows it is a 2TB device, but the 1 TB case is the same as far as I can see.


If it's a SATA drive, you're in luck.  SATA connectors are the same for desktop & notebook drives.  No adapter necessary to get your data off.  The drives used in the 2.5" USB drives are not the same as the ones used in the notebook computer, they have lower power requirements so no power adapter is required & all power can be supplied from the USBus.

Notice that the one shown in the link is not a notebook drive so must use a power adapter.  You can see the power jack in the pics. Quote from: Computer_Commando on July 30, 2011, 02:31:05 PM

If it's a SATA drive, you're in luck.

Not yours, his.

Since you now have nothing to lose you could remove it from the case and put it in another USB enclosure. Inside the case is a 3.5 inch SATA drive, and USB enclosures for these are plentiful and cheap.

Or you could just get another USB-to-SATA adapter and fit that inside the WD case. The second of the two articles below will make this clear I hope.

If it's a SATA drive, you're in luck.  SATA connectors are the same for desktop & notebook drives.  No adapter necessary to get your data off.  The drives used in the 2.5" USB drives are not the same as the ones used in the notebook computer, they have lower power requirements so no power adapter is required & all power can be supplied from the USBus.

Notice that the one shown in the link is not a notebook drive so must use a power adapter.  You can see the power jack in the pics.

Not yours, his.
This is his:

Definitely a 3.5" SATA drive.

I have a WD Elements, but it's a 2.5" drive.

That's the same HDD i have if it helps at all

They usually come with their own power adapters.

Just to clarify, does the replacement case come with all of the boards inside? because the USB port that broke was connected to the control board. Will I be able to get rid of the one I have once I get a new one?

Even the control board attached to the drive? It's removable. I tried to post a picture, but my replies don't get posted when I attach the picture.

The sealed metal drive is all you need the circuit board attatched to it... in this case green? Can be discarded.

hello. i am looking to upgrade my processor/cpu. i use pro tools and im always getting the low cpu message. it is an fm1 socket, hp has some listed on theyre site. but am i able to get other types, MAYBE even BETTER than those that will work? i am completely lost on this kind of stuff, any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
Hp touchsmart 320-1030
amd a4-3400 64 bit osThat PC isn't WORTH UPGRADING i'm afraid...
Other than adding RAM...if you can i wouldn't spend any more on it than that...
One of the reasons all in ones are very similar to LAPTOPS...minimal upgrade potentials.

Recently, my graphics card in my gaming PC went bunk on me. So I'm looking for a new one. I'm not an expert by any means at computers, especially when it comes to hardware (though, fortunately, I do know how to put in a new card). Anyway, I need help choosing a new one because all the numbers and specs mean diddly to me. The only way I can really tell anything is by looking at PassMark's high end video card charts.

My computer:
Intel Core i7 CPU 920 2.67GHz 2.67GHz
6GB Ram
Now sadly running on a Nvidia Geforce 8400 GS
750W power supply

I want to get as much bang for my buck as I can, with a price limit of under $200. By looking at that chart, I'm thinking about getting:
HIS H785F1G2M Radeon HD 7850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card - $165
Is this a good one? Or does anyone have any ideas as to which ones might be better for me?Just wanted to state that I will never buy another video card ever made by HIS. We bought 10 video cards of their brand for graphics department when I worked at a small food store chain and we had a 70% failure RATE between 14 months and 18 months in operation, and the warranty on the cards I bought of their brand was only 1year at the time.

I'd go with ASUS, Zotac, or XFX etc. The GPU and specs you have listed are sweet, but I have very little trust in HIS after the company I worked for took around a $700 loss on their cards.

The users were only using Adobe graphic arts products etc, nothing too extreme to cook 7 out of 10 cards. Systems they were installed in were also higher end machines with adequate airflow etc. I can see losing 1 or 2 out of 10 maybe after 18 months, but 70% failure soured my taste with that company's quality.

Have been running videocards from ASUS, Zotac, and XFX for years without ISSUES. Had an older GeForce 7600GT made by XFX finally run into issues after like 5 or 6  years of daily use and that was because the GPU cooling fan finally started to seize up. My wife is running a Zotac GeForce 9800GT and has been running that card for about 3 years now without issues. I also have a motherboard made by Zotac that is running flawlessly as a server. And currently running 2 gaming systems both with ASUS brand video cards with no problems. I have also had ASUS motherboards, laptops, video cards etc through the years with no complaints in quality and functionality.Thanks for the warning. I would be a very angry person to have to do this again next year. But it leaves a question for me then, are these graphics cards the same thing? They all say Radeon HD 7850, but with a bunch of other stuff in the title.

SAPPHIRE 100355-1GOCL Radeon HD 7850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card OC Version ($165 w/ rebate)
    Chipset MANUFACTURER: AMD
    Core Clock: 900MHz
    Stream Processors: 1024 Stream Processors
    Effective Memory Clock: 1200MHz (4.8Gbps)

SAPPHIRE 100355OCL Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card OC Version ($185 w/ rebate)
    Chipset Manufacturer: AMD
    Stream Processors: 1024 Stream Processors
    DirectX: DirectX 11
    OpenGL: OpenGL 4.2

XFX Double D FX-785A-ZDF4 Radeon HD 7850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card ($170 w/ rebate)
    Chipset Manufacturer: AMD
    Core Clock: 860MHz
    Stream Processors: 1024 Stream Processors
    Effective Memory Clock: 1200MHz (4.8Gbps)

SAPPHIRE 100355L Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
    Chipset Manufacturer: AMD
    Stream Processors: 1024 Stream Processors
    DirectX: DirectX 11
    OpenGL: OpenGL 4.2

PowerColor AX7850 2GBD5-DH Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card ($175 w/ rebate)
    Chipset Manufacturer: AMD
    Core Clock: 860MHz
    Stream Processors: 1024 Stream Processors
    Effective Memory Clock: 1200MHz (4.8Gbps)

XFX Core Edition FX-785A-ZNL4 Radeon HD 7850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card ($160 w/ rebate)
    Chipset Manufacturer: AMD
    Core Clock: 860MHz
    Stream Processors: 1024 Stream Processors
    Effective Memory Clock: 1200MHz (4.8Gbps)

My current favorite is the one at the top, which has good reviews. So if it's the same card I'll probably get that one. But like I said, I don't know what all this extra info means. So if anyone could fill me in a little, I'd APPRECIATE it.Never had Sapphire brand, but at 5 eggs for 43 reviews thats not bad and possibly worth taking a chance with this card. It has a 2 year warranty, and I'd save the receipt just in case. I ran into an issue with an APC UPS warranty that I know was not expired and they used the mfg date of the unit vs the purchase date because I couldnt supply receipt. It should have still had 4 months warranty left on it when the battery died, but without proof I was stuck with it being outside of warranty terms.EVGA builds very solid vid cards as well...just to expand your choices...
Also if you select to upgrade within the 1st 6 months they give you what you paid for the card towards a new one.The "other information" in the title is simply the configuration of the cards display outputs, amount of RAM that they come with, and clock speed(which really doesn't matter in the slightest as manufacturers usually do the most conservative overclocks possible which you can easily do with a third-party tool. All HD 7850s are binned as 1024 SP Pitcairns, whereas all HD 7870s are the complete 1280SP Pitcairn Pro, and there's only so far you can go with an overclock.)Thanks everyone ;] I went with the Sapphire Radeon HD 7850. Happy that I waited a couple of weeks, because now it comes with Bioshock Infinite and Tomb Raider. Now I just need to get my hands on it.

Hello,
I have a new Creative WoW Headset (Wireless) that causes my computer (Win 7 64bit) to freeze. Sometimes it gives me a BSOD with the code 0x00000101. The freeze mostly show up a couple of minutes after connected, but at a few occasions it managed to hold to up to 40 minutes before freeze. I can plug in the USB device with nothing hapening, but as soon as I turn ON the headset, the risk of freeze is there.

I did tried the headset on another computer with no problems so far. So it seems that it is my computer that doesnt like the headset.. or other way around...

I have also had contact with the manufacturer (Creative) back and forth, but they seem to have given up, or direct me to contact computer manufacturer for further assistance.
Also I have tried formated my computer and reinstalled windows just to try that out. Didnt work.

Now I dont know what more I can do... I realy need some help here. 



http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f299/solved-stop-0x00000101-error-advice-591847.html

Similarity with this link is that the user here claimed they also were playing music when it would crash. Read further for suggestions on what to check into.Hmmm. The difference here would be that it isnt the music or game itself that would cause the computer to freeze. Its the headset that causes the freeze once its connected and ON.
It hapens to me wheter I play music or just have the desktop infront of me. Without the headset the computer works fine in both games, youtube, watching movies or listening to music.

When asking about this in your livechat, someone suspected that it had to do with USB connections.


Anyone?  I would return it for a replacement under warranty...

If you do suspect a USB PORT...which i don't in Device Manager right clik ALL instances of USB roots and Hubs and select remove/un-install...you will recieve a warning...ignore it.
Upon re-boot they will all be re-installed.I have had contact about returning them, but the customer support says that I cant return on warranty due to the fact that it works on another computer.

I have also just tried what you suggested and rightclick -> uninstall each and every USB device under "Universal serial bus controllers" and REBOOTED. Problem still there. :SIt's the unit then...return it.If the people you are talking to at either the store of purchase or the manufacturer that is telling you that you cannot return it "because it works on another computer" and are adamant about that. Then call them back and tell them you had just not let it run long enough and when you let it run for XXXX amount of time it also eventually did it on that computer also. This is based on an assumption that their primary motivation for their current stance is they cannot help you and they are looking for an excuse to deny your return.However is it possible that it is a factor of the operating system and perhaps a driver compatibility issue? Was the other computer using the same O/S (including service packs)?truenorth My computer run with Win 7 Ultimate 64bit. And the other computer run with Win 7 Home premium 64bit.
Both computers drivers should all be up to date according to win update.
My motherboard is this: Gigabyte GA-H55-UD3H, Socket-1156. And I will try get latest updates just incase from: http://www.gigabyte.se/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3306#dl

Something interesting that hapened few minutes ago was that my computer got a freeze while headset wasnt even plugged in.. It hapened when I tested the headset out on the other computer.
(I have a wireless network for the computers). And so far the other computer is fine.This is now getting complicated...you stated it was the headset causing the freezes....
Now apparently since it was dis-connected it would appear the PC has other freezing issues.
Go ahead and post the rest of your specs and we'll take a looksee...I have now tried installing the drivers from that motherboard website and rebooted. Connected and turned ON headset, 2mins later it froze.
Also the fact that the computer froze without headset connected could perhaps have something to do with the headset freezing since earlier? I havent had problems like this before buying the headset, so it kinda started since. Maybe freeze/BSOD has damaged some file or so?

Exacly what info do you need? I do have a system.nfo file but it is too big (2.5mb) to attach here. Is it possible to send or email it through here?Here is some info if it is of any help:

OS Name   Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate   
Version   6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601   
OS Manufacturer   Microsoft Corporation   
System Manufacturer   Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd.   
System Model   H55-UD3H   
System Type   x64-based PC   
Processor   Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU         760  2.80GHz, 2794 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)   
BIOS Version/Date   Award Software International, Inc. F9, 2010-07-06   
SMBIOS Version   2.4   
Windows Directory   C:\Windows   
System Directory   C:\Windows\system32   
Boot Device   \Device\HarddiskVolume1   
Locale   Sweden   
Hardware Abstraction Layer   Version = "6.1.7601.17514"   
Time Zone   W. Europe Standard Time   
Installed Physical Memory (RAM)   8,00 GB   
Total Physical Memory   7,96 GB   
Available Physical Memory   5,66 GB   
Total Virtual Memory   15,9 GB   
Available Virtual Memory   13,3 GB   3 THINGS you can do to test for possible freezing occorunces :
1) RAM issue:
DLoad and run MemTest...follow the guide for creating a bootable CD...let it run at least 1 hour...
Any errors at all and it's a bad stik of RAM
2) HDD issues:
DLoad and run the FREE diagnostics from the HDD manuf site again repeat the steps above...let it run to completion...
Test will tell you if it's the HDD.
3)Windows issues:
Check in Event Viewer to see what issues that reports...may be a software / OS issue.

Let us know.
PS ...not a bad rig you've built there...This next is a real reach.Does the unit have the ability to change the frequency of the transmitter? Have you tried that?truenorthpatio
I will run Memory diagnostics tonight, will let you know tomorrow about the results there.
I have done diagnostic test on my HDD's and all seems fine with em.
About the event viewer, I am not sure how to read and interpret the results in there ... Maybe if there is some specific section you are interested in, I could export it here?


truenorth
Do you mean change frequency of the headset as in sample rate and bit rate?

I have a ERMIC ER M7Mv plugged into Windows 7 PC. I have tried to use Sound Recorder to record audio input. I have tried unsuccessfully to see if the problem is lack of a driver in the pc for that microphone.Just use a plain microphone.
But it seems nobody wants to sell you just a plain microphone.
The more EXPENSIVE ones give mediocre performance  on a PC. The output level is too LOW. And the don't come with a stand.
The cheap little things are better suited for a PC. Don't pay more that $20 in the USA.

You could just get a microphone with a headset for a PC. The go for under $12 and work great. In fact, if you want to use voice recognition, the headset mic is what you want. The microphone has a stand and is supposed to work when plugged into the jack at the back of the computer. Audio input into the microphone does not produce an audio output from the computer loud speakers. It sesms that the microphone is faulty. Normally Windows does not allow Mic and Speaker on together.

denisaf, did you try the microphone on anything else? A voice recorder? A cassette recorder? A Karaoke?

Another way is  to use either Skype or Google talk. Call a buddy and test your microphone.

I like Google Talk.

http://www.google.com/talk/


This may seem obvious, but did you go into your audio control panel and make sure it's set up as the default recording device and is not muted. I am on an XP comp right now so I can't give specific instructions.Just so we can give you the best and most APPROPRIATE advice. What is the source of the audio to be recorded?truenorthI have now tried two microphones on two pcs (Windows 7 and Windows 98) using Sound Recorder to file the the audio input. I have then played the file using Media Player and this shows that it has played the file but no sound comes out. The loudspeakers play recorded music so there is not problem there. I have been through the installation checks provided by Help. The input is not muted.For Windows 7 http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Record-audio-with-Sound-Recorder
Save the recorded file on your dekstop and open WMP. On the Play tab, drag the recorded WMA file to the right column untitled playlist.I have done that and WMP shows the file is being played but no sound comes out of the loudspeakers. The Windows 98 pc Sound Recorder displays the audio being recorded as a blue line. During the recording, I expected to see a wavy line but it was a straight line with gaps.
Do you see this recording tab with internal and external mic similar to the IMAGE above? Have you tried checking first by testing them both if audio is coming out on both output using the bar like graph equalizer?Problem solved by advice from local expert, not from Windows Help. Data Recorder does the recording and the file is named in the Music screen, not Media Player. Double clicking on the file causes it to play. Help does not explain that Music has to be used for playing recorded audio input from a microphone.

What is the difference between Asrock 939NF4G-VSTA and 939NF4G-SATA2 motherboard
and how well does the built-in graphic work in these two motherboard ?

http://www.asrock.com/mb/index.us.asp?s=939939NF4G-VSTA

    SOCKET 939 for AMD Athlon™ 64FX / 64X2 / 64 Processors
    NVIDIA® GeForce 6100 chipset
    NVIDIA® nForce 410 MCP chipset
    FSB 1000MHz (2.0GT/s), Hyper-Transport Technology and AMD Cool 'n' Quiet Technology
    Integrated NV44 graphics DX9.0 VGA, Pixel Shader 3.0, Max. shared memory 128MB
    Supports Dual Channel DDR400, 4 x DDR DIMM slots
    Untied Overclocking : During overclocking, FSB enjoys better margin due to fixed PCIE/ PCI Buses
    Hybrid Booster - ASRock Safe Overclocking Technology
    1 x PCI Express x16 slot
    2 x SATA2 3.0 Gb/s, support RAID 0, RAID 1, JBOD and "Hot Plug" FUNCTIONS
    7.1 channel with HIGH Definition Audio
    Windows® Vista™ Premium Logo Hardware READY
    HD 8CH I/O: 4 ready-to-use USB Ports, 7.1 channel audio jack

939NF4G-SATA2   
   
    Socket 939 for AMD Athlon™ 64FX / 64X2 / 64 processors
    NVIDIA® GeForce 6100 chipset
    NVIDIA® nForce 410 MCP chipset
    Supports FSB 1000MHz (2.0GT/s), Hyper-Transport Technology and AMD Cool 'n' Quiet Technology
    Integrated NV44 graphics DX9.0 VGA, Pixel Shader 3.0, Max. shared memory 128MB
    Supports Dual Channel DDR400, 4 DIMMs slots
    Hybrid Booster - ASRock Safe Overclocking Technology
    PCI Express x16 slot for VGA interface
    PCI Express x1 slot
    2 ports of SATA2 3.0Gb/s, RAID 0, 1, JBOD, 2 ATA133 IDE ports
    7.1 Channel Superior Quality Audio, 10/100 Ethernet LAN
    ASRock 8CH I/O: 4 ready-to-use USB 2.0 ports, 7.1 channel audio jack

One review says "The integrated video certainly isn't capable of being a gamer's friend, but when it comes to playing videos inside of mplayer or carrying out related desktop or server TASKS, it is certainly satisfactory." This is typical of onboard video.

Just a quick question, can anyone tell me if there is any software that can report the details of installed memory like make, model, slots used frequency etc.? I tried Belarc Advisor but it only reported the size. Many thanx in advance.http://www.crucial.com/systemscanner/ is a good one, as well as CPU-Z shows memory and other specs

Only issue  have had with the crucial SYSTEM scanner to report memory info is that it reported my Biostar MCP6PB M2+ motherboard as having 4 memory slots and supporting a maximum of 8GB DDR2 800Mhz, but my motherboard only has 2 memory slots and so it maxes out at 4GB which I currently have in it. *So if using it to perform an upgrade, I would perform a visual inspection to verify that you have as many slots as the scanner reports. The memory controller supports addressing 4 slots of RAM, and I believe that is why the scanner reports back as having 4 slots available with maximum of 2GB per slot, when only 2 are available. It showed correct information for the 2 RAM sticks and showed 2 blank slots.

Yeah just tried it but still doesn't show make or frequency thanx anyway.Not sure if there are any out there that show the make/model of the memory. The system only REALLY cares about the FSB, Voltage, Address Size(512MB, 1GB, 2GB, 4GB, 8GB, etc), BITS(32, 36, etc), ECC or Non-ECC, and CAS Latency labelled as CL and a value after it such as 2 or 2.5 etc.

Even servers that report memory information may say its stuffed with GENUINE HP memory and have a RAM stick installed with EDGE brand on a HP G-series server I worked with a while back. Found that interesting that it didnt show up as a non-genuine memory stick..LOLSIW

System Info for Windows.And Speccy.The problem is I have 2 X 4gB ddr3 memory sticks installed no name data or anything on them ( yes they work ) with no way to IDENTIFY them. I  have some Corsair ones 4 X 2gB ddr3 that may or may not be be better. The qvl from ASUS says the Corsair ones are correct and will work and was wondering whether to play swapsies or not or better yet leave well enough alone I suppose

So, recently my graphics card burned out and I GOT a new one. I plug it in today to find that my computer won't boot up. I put the WINDOWS 7 disc in, and it goes straight to startup repair and SITS there for a couple of hours. I then made a mistake and booted up from that disc, and decided to try reformat my HD. It takes forever to format the drive, and then when it tries to install Windows it gets to the 2nd step "expanding files" and just idles there forever. SO, I give up on that and try booting up in DOS using a Hitachi Fitness Diagnostic Disc. It sits on "Starting PC DOS..." forever.

I checked all the plugs, to make sure I didn't jostle one when putting in the new video card. I probably made a huge mistake formatting the drive too. Can anyone figure if it's the HD or the CD drive? I don't mind replacing one but I'm really not prepared for both.

Edit: Tried the diagnostic disc again and DOS started up like a champ. Got the test running on what I hope is the right thing (it had the right serial number anyway). So hopefully this will give me some picture of what may or may not be wrong with my HD. I'll give it a while yet.

Editedit: The diagnostic says there's something wrong with my HD, so there we go I suppose. It didn't give me any details aside from that there was a failure in the test and I should contact my HD manufacturer. Even so, I'm kind of concerned for my CD drive, but I'll leave that for now. Any ideas as to what may have caused this? Was it just general wear and tear?Okay, so it looks like I'm shopping for a new HD (to start, I'm still eyeballing my CD drive). Does anyone have any tips on what I should be looking for? For now, these are the two I'm looking at and I'll probably choose one by tomorrow:

Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive - $80 with a $15 off promo code so = $65
After reading some of the comments, it seems people are saying that 1TB HDs often die quickly, does anyone have any experience with this? This one seems like a great deal but I'm leary.

Western Digital WD Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive - $65 with a $15 off promo so = $50
My current (though now broken I guess) HD is from WD. I've had it for 2 years personally, and the friend I got it from had it for another 2 years before me. I don't know what the lives on these things generally are though. I think the old computer I gave to my Dad is probably around 8 years old and though slow still going strong.

Anyway, any opinions? The $15 off coupon things end tomorrow, so I' sort of in a hurry.

I prefer using the 500 Gb capacity hard drives over 1 terabyte but that's just me. Seagate and Western Digital are widely used and popular but make sure the warranty period favors to your advantage. ;] After about 10 hours of grueling work, I MANAGED to fix the thing. This may not be a major accomplishment but since I had no idea what I was doing I'm pretty proud of myself. Apparently it was bad sectors, though it took me forever to figure it out. My last ditch effort was to use Hiren's Boot CD, and try HDD Erase on my computer (which even involved going into BIOS and changing my SATA to IDE, a daunting task for me). After 2 hours, my HD was supposedly erased to 0s, and I was able to format and install windows again. Hurray.

My question now is, do bad sectors signal the end of my HD? Should I order a new one anyway? Quote from: Gelliebeen on February 06, 2013, 07:07:48 PM

...The diagnostic says there's something wrong with my HD, so there we go I suppose. It didn't give me any details aside from that there was a failure in the test and I should contact my HD manufacturer. Even so, I'm kind of concerned for my CD drive, but I'll leave that for now. Any ideas as to what may have caused this? Was it just general wear and tear?

I just bought a acer aspire v5-531 and its built in CAMERA does not work. It worked in the BEGGINING for a few DAYS but then it wouldn't recognize any camera device. I've tried everything; tried installing its driver, tried system restore, searched for solutions online but NOTHING worked! It simply does not recognize anymore the camera, like it never existed. Please tell me a SOLUTION I've paid a lot of money and the people at the store said they can't solve the problem I tried with programs such as skype and others but it simply doesn't recognize any camera device, like it doesn't existIf you have tried all that it sounds like it's the hardware itself...
I'd return it under Warranty...

I have a problem with my computer the colour has CHANGED on the TASKBAR it was blue and now it is a beige colour. I did change the settings yesterday from 'let windows choose whats best for my computer' to 'adjust for best PERFORMANCE' under the system properties, performance options but I changed it back and the taskbar went back to blue. However this morning when I turned it on it is back to beige, I checked the settings and 'let windows choose' SHOWS as the option I picked.

Any help greatly appreciated.Right-click on your DESKTOP and choose Personalization look Window Color. Windows XP is right-click on desktop and choose Properties - Appearance tab. Hit Apply.

Have MB where the audio input to the Intel board has been burned out by a power spike. (yes I was protected by an APC unit). Replaced the PS. Updated all drivers and downloaded all MS Updates. No sound. Called Velocity Comp. and the diag. my problem as the audio burned in MB. No, Realtec does not show in DEVICES.

Question is: if I get a USB Audio device will it play if a audio processor is burned on the board? I have some nice 5.1 Creative speakers that are connected to the dead MB sound inputs, so I'll just play thoes out the USB device. Does the USB by pass all MB processors. Finally, I'm used to Realtek sound and does any audiophile where you are think I'll come close to that with a under 100.00 USB sound card?
Thanks for any help.Why not an internal card ? ?
If this isn't a laptop you can get one of those for waaay less than 100 Bucks...Sorry, thought I put in the intro that this is a PC (Velocity Edge Gx440).
In an ideal world yes I'd go audio card! But I have no slot available. My TWIN ATI Radeon 4800s take up the slack. No PCI solts unless I duck it 'teen the graphics cards=heat issue, right.They also have PCI E sound cards that use the smaller slots if you have them...pretty sure you would if you have 2 vid cards...Here in USA you can get USB sound cards cheap. Both Wallchart and Amazon ofter them. Some are cheaper that regular PCI cards.  But you still need external powered loudspeakers, which can cost more that the USB card.
Patio, I'll look into PCI-E sound cards didn't know they existed. You are right I do have 2 more PCI-E slots.
Geek, there must be someone out there who has a powered speaker and USB S.C., I'll do some research.Thanks! Just before you run off and spend your hard earned money. " (yes I was protected by an APC unit)." These things usually come with astronomical guaranties (seen them quoted in the hundreds of thousands of dollars) against the failure to "protect" attached devices. Might be an occasion to test that.I have never been in a position to test it personally even though i do have one. Others may have had some experience with that aspect of those units.truenorthTruenorth, that idea has crossed my mind. May have some moments this weekend to get on the APC site and see. Got my receipts still. I'll post what I find out.    At a gas station/convenience store that I was responsible for the IT for which was part of a small food store chain, they took a direct strike of lightning one hot summer afternoon killing the UPS and computer, pump controller, and POS system, and I sent them the UPS and the computer ( minus the hard drive ), as for they had to verify that they were at fault.

   In the end, they shipped it back to us declining warranty replacement of the computer because the power supply of the computer still powered up, but the system was black screen because of fried motherboard. They did however give us a new replacement UPS since the other one did as it was designed to which was to stop a lightning strike and it was within its warranty replacement period. The CAUSE of the damage was written up as the fact that the computer was killed by an unprotected network connection or that lightning took a direct path to the computer via the Cat5 jack bypassing the protective route of the UPS. The inside of the computer had cooked chips and vaporized traces around the integrated NIC.

  Your system with fried audio port sounds just like the system I dealt with back in 2007. The audio equipment either was not powered through the UPS or somehow the spike or strike bypassed the UPS. Maybe APC has better warranty than Tripplite with a no questions asked replacement etc, but I think they will also want to investigate the damages otherwise people would exploit the warranty process for free upgrades.

   We were satisfied with Tripplite's judgement on declining the computer replacement, but instead replacing the UPS as for I am in agreement with their claim that their UPS did as it was intended and the damages to the computer were the result of the lightning taking an alternate unprotected path to the system. I still buy their products to this day and they last.DaveLembke,
 Thanks for shagging.  Real life experiences with direct lightning mean a lot more that talk abut theory. Surge devices give some protection, but never enough.

Any company the has a brink and mortar store inn an exposed area should have protection non every piece of wire going into and out of then building.
http://www.gwi.net/policy/blog/protecting-business-networks-from-lightning-damage

Thanks again for posting.
I,m in the country in the snow belt of Ohio. We had a power out. 2 comp. plugged to 2 DIFFERENT APC units. Both computers were off. One stayed off when the power came back on (sort of on...lights in home did not come on and the comp. that got its UPS and sound fried came on all its own (I shut both down every night). Then I noticed the comp. display did not come on. Turned off the machine till I got back home from work. The good comp. on another APC unit turned on fine. It's on an older APC unit too. Just wasn't my day (or week considering the time I have spent on getting my Velocity back up and running)
I do want to add that along the way I had to call Velocity computers in Virginia and the the tech help was just amazing! It was the absolute best help (diag. sound drivers and sound on MB issue) in my 25 years of owning computers. I get another Velocity, anything, when the time is up on any of our families machines.
I'll see what APC says.My APC is 4 yrs. OLD (warrenty: 3). Did some research and found what I really need is: Eaton Home Service panel surge protector cost about 60-70 bucks. Heres why:http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Electrical/ProductsandServices/Residential/SurgeProtection/CompleteHome/index.htmHi

You don't say what version of windows you are running or whether the sound was working after the powersupply was replaced but before you updated the drivers. there is a problem with realtek HD drivers and Windows XP SP3.
Seems very strange that the power supply was hit and the only thing not working is the on board sound ?. If this is the case it might be worth claiming on insurance for the damage as normally this is the start of further problems and the computer should be replaced.
Hi

Sorry didn't answer your question . If it is a driver / sp3 issue then putting another sound device on the computer still won't fix it sorry.


replaced ps with a 750W 12 volt railed unit and the sound processor was knocked out as well. The APC surge/ back up unit is now 1 tr. out of warranty. Came with a 3 yr. A replacement for my computer protection would now cost....sit down first please and keep your arms free so you can grab your hair and pull herd like I did when I did the APC "unit match-up" on their web site... $950.00! Looking into an Eaton spike home voltage protector for about $65.00.

I have a Toshiba Qosmio F45 Laptop that has falled to load an OS after formating. what might be the problem and the solution to the problem please.If it was formatted the OS is gone...
Please explain clearly what you have done up to this point.patio when i was TRANSFERING files from another machine to the laptop and i had finished rebooting the laptop was not posible neither was it accepting gives ntldr missing loading an OS on it. so i formated the hard DISKS from another machine and it gives BOOT manager missing then loaded an os on them but RETURNING to the laptop it attempts to load the os and then shows a blue screen and stops immediately.Was the original Factory Restore CD from Toshiba used in this process ? ?
This may be the reason as some OEM's setup their laptops to use the originals...
That being said most BSOD's are hardware related...was this PC having other issues ? ?
Post the entire BSOD including the GIBBERISH...

Okay, I ordered a Wireless PCI adapter from Amazon because I am moving soon and I won't have any points in my new HOUSE for CAT-5. The PCI Adapter I have is a "TP-LINK TL-WN951N Wireless PCI Adapter". It got here in the mail, I downloaded and installed the latest driver and software from TP-LINK's website then shutdown windows, popped the adapter in, booted windows, windows recongnized it and it WORKED like a charm. 2 days later I boot up my computer that day, and the adapter was not working. It was not popping up in the "change adapter settings" page on Windows like it should and was before. So I STARTED trouble shooting, I reinstalled the latest drivers and software again. That didn't work, so I tried installing the drivers from the CD that the product came with. No dice eaither. I always get, "Drivers were not successfully installed". Whenever I got into the Device Manager and go into the properties of the Adapter. Under STATUS it says, "This device cannot start. (Code 10)". I wasn't done yet, I even tried all of that again with the second PCI slot I have on my motherboard and still the same problem. So fed up, I called TP-LINK customer support and I got some chinese ladies that didn't know anything about a computer. On top of that, I could hardly understand them. All they wanted was my e-mail and phone number then actaully wanting to help me. I don't know what to do anymore.  

I have a custom built PC and here are the specs.
Mobo: GIGABYTE 970A-UD3
CPU: AMD PHENOM II X6 1045T (Overclocked 3.5GHz)
Graphics Card: Sapphire 6870 1GB DDR5
RAM: 16GB (1333MHz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212
HDD: 1TB HDD
PSU: Corsair CX600 Watt
PC Case: NZXT Guardian 921 RB
Amazon has a very good return policy.

my LAPTOP screen is black and it starts normally but when it have load programs it just GOES black and cant see anything.when i press projector BUTTON it shows options on screen what can be problem?laptop screen's black and cant run any program what must be problem?It's in projector mode...Read the Manual for INFO on how to get it back out of that mode.

Hello everyone,

I built a new computer 3 weeks ago. I have a problem and I would like to have some advice since nothing I read on the forums worked.

Worked FLAWLESSLY for 2 weeks.
One week ago, i got some lag/buzzing sound in my headphones every now and then (lag lasting 5 secs); YOUTUBE, skype, Borderlands 2.
The day after, I would have this lag every 4 mins (like clockwork) and it would still last 5 secs.
Now, the lags do not happen that often but my computer freezes when i play games. The freezes are very RANDOM since they can appear after 2, 3 or 5 hours; always in different areas of the game.

Here is what happens when my computer freezes.

I can use my keyboard to access task manager. However, when I am in, I can't control my mouse (I can control my mouse when I am in the windows 8 menu to get to task manager).
Therefore, I force start it with the front button. When I press it, I hear a loud buzzing sound in my headphones (probably the sound of whatever is playing in loop) until it shots downs.
When it restarts, I still hear the buzzing sound very loud in my headphones but I have full control of my computer. I can therefore restart it properly with the windows menu.
When the computer boots again, it's like it never happened.

So I have some questions.

Do you think the lags and the freezes are related?
How come the problems appear now after 2 weeks (I didn't install anything in between).
If it would be a hardware problem, I guess I would have problems all the time? Right now, I can play Borderlands 2 maxed out with high FPS until...it freezes.

Lastly, I don't think its the cooling since I have a really nice case and all fans are working properly; Corsair Obsidian Series 650D Mid-Tower Case ATX 4X5.25 6X3.5INT USB USB3.0 1394 Fan Ctrl No PS.

I would really appreciate some help. What are the other specs ? ?
MBoard...CPU...RAM...PSU. Quote

How come the problems appear now after 2 weeks (I didn't install anything in between).

I am looking to get a new prnter after going through a few Samsung CLX3185.  It has been nothing but trouble and does not seem to last.  I do enough prints to get a printer similar and was looking at some HP printers as I have used them in the past and they just seem to print for ever without issues.

What I am after is something like the Samsung but really want something that is going to last I would say maybe about 100 pages per day is so needs to be able to do the job without braking down all the time. 
I am also after a printer that is not to expensive to run the samsung does seem to cost a bit to run and to fit some of the parts like the fuser unit is a bit tricky. 
I like the Corporate HP Line of Printers, although some models are not user serviceable friendly to replace fuser unit and other parts that are contained within maintenance kits. If you are like me and like to be able to service your own printer vs having to bring it to a genuine HP service center, I'd look at a printer model of choice and then perform research on the model and look for a maintenance kit for it and its cost and see if you can find a PDF that shows the installation PROCEDURE. Also CHECK into toner cost and print yield per cartridge. I would avoid the cheaper HP printer line and go towards a more rugged model with 100 pages printed per day. HP also has a good warranty as well as offer extended warranty plans. A client of mine actually leases the expensive printers from HP and if the printer craps out after 5 months, they have to replace it immediately. ONE of the printers they are paying $20 a month LEASE on.Is this a question or a promotion?
Everybody is welcome here, but if you are trying to SELL something, you will get a deaf ear. You already have said HP  all-in-one.
Now here are some others in alphabetical order.
Canon Pixma MX350,
 Epson WorkForce 610,
Lexmark Prospect Pro205.

For high end business class printers, try Konica Minolta.

Now, what was the question?

I posted this problem under hardware because it's what I think might be the problem but I really have no idea!

I have an HP Pavilion dm4. It's about 1.5 years old, and for the last few months it will randomly freak out on me...the screen will turn into a green checkerboard pattern or sometimes it will go black.  It also makes a really loud buzzing noise whenever this happens.

This happens most frequently when I'm watching streaming video or playing League of Legends. It happens at other times too though.

When I have my laptop hooked up to a monitor w/ an HDMI cable, the monitor screen will also turn into the green checkerboard or go black depending on what my laptop did.

When this happens none of the buttons on my laptop work, including the power button, so I've resorted to removing the battery whenever this happens and turning my laptop back on. Everything is perfectly fine after this happens.

I have no idea what's wrong with it and I really need help! Sounds like the GPU ( Graphics Processor ) is overheating. I'd RUN a free utility called speedfan on this laptop and watch temps. The GPU might be roasting and then acting up.

If the GPU is not permanently damaged and is overheating according to SpeedFan, you can fix this by making sure the GPU heatsink is free of lint/dust, as well as verify that there is adequate airflow. I would even go to the extreme of removing the GPU heatsink carefully and verifying that it has adequate thermal compound applied to bond the thermal heatsink properties of the heatsink with the GPU chip face.

If the GPU is not getting too HOT and it is acting up it can be a bad RAM stick possibly SINCE memory is shared between the CPU and GPU. A test for memory is Memtest86 which can be burned to a CD,DVD, or you can make a bootable USB flash drive to boot this from and test at least 3 full TESTS. Anything in RED text is indication of memory issues. So if this is the case, replacing a bad ram stick could fix it.

I am thinking its a GPU that is overheating.

I can copy text or music to a DVD but suddenly It will not accept picture files. My hard drive manager says the device is working properly but it GIVES and error "The disc in the drive is full or is not a writable CD". They are all blank brand new CDs. I've been transferring pictures for years like this all of a sudden it won't behave.Problem solved. I had a spare Sony DVD unit. swapped it out and everything works again. I guess they wear out like anything else. These days if i get 2 + years out of a DVD Burner i consider myself in the bonus ROUND...On that note externals are so CHEAP now and readily portable between computers if a need arises to "replace" one i suggest going that route. Makes the eventual throw away (if it arises) a lot easier also.truenorth

So a year or two BACK I put a 70 GB hard drive in my computer in addition to my 500 GB drive. My buddy and I installed Linux on it for fun and I can't remember what we did but since then when I booted the computer a menu would appear and I had to choose which one to boot from. I just repartitioned the 70 gig drive with Linux on it and formatted it. Changed the boot order in startup to my 500 gig drive with windows 7 on it. The 70 gig also has windows 7 on it now but when I START my computer it tries to open the menu but just sits at a black screen with a white underscore blinking at the top. I am at a total loss and anything would be a big help.Another method for dual booting is to have each drive independent of each other....
In this method the 2 OS's never see each other and it MAY help diagnose if it is indeed the 70G HDD as the culprit.

Remove the existing Win7 install on the 70G via the other Win7 install.
When that is finished power down.
Hook up only the 70G  and re-do the install of Win 7 to it...Boot it up and install all neccessary system drivers from the MBoard driver CD.

Re-connect the 500g on the SATA 0 connecter with the 70G on SATA 1... (Note: on some boards it may be Sata 1 and 2 respectively )
Now when you boot load setup/BIOS...both drives should be listed...select which one you want to use for this session ...move it to the top of the boot order and press F10 to "save changes and exit"...

If the 70G HDD still boots SLOWLY in this isolated setup then it is the HDD that has issues.
Hope this helps.