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My brother has an OLD Compaq Presario DR1610 NX and I have been helping him upgrade it. We changed the processor to a MD Athlon 64 x2 4200 + 2.2 GHz Dual Core and upgraded the power supply to 430w. For the graphics CARD, we found a ASUS NVIDIA GeForce 7950 GT on ebay. We turned it on and everything was working fine for a few minutes, then the screen froze, went fuzzy, and the computer turned off. We LET it sit for awhile and tried it once more only to see sparks coming out of it. We turned it off again and found that it was the graphics card that was sparking. Did I get the wrong type of graphics card  for this PC or to I get sold a bunk graphics card?

thank youJunk card...return it.
If it were the wrong card it WOULD not have fit in the slot.

I wouldn't BUY a bowling ball off of eBay.That sucks....Normally I have really good  experiences with Ebay..... this is the first time this has ever happened which is why I was inclined to blame myself. I am a little relieved to find out I didnt get a card that was not compatible or something.

Hello,

I hope that other forum members will be able to give me advice about recovering data from an unreadable CD-R.

My father gave me a CD-R on which some digitized photos were saved about 10 years ago by a PHOTOGRAPHY shop, in JPG-format. The CD-R seems to be unreadable, it is not recognized by Windows at all. After a survey of the forum, it seems to me that the most likely explanation is CD-R dye ageing. (Interestingly, other CD-R media from the same batch do not seem to give any problems.)

I have tried to read this CD-R medium with four different laptops (running Windows 2000, XP, 7), using CD-R, CD-RW, and DVD-RW drives. The outcome is identical for each case, i.e., the CD-R disk is not recognized.

For recovery data software, I tried "CD Recovery Toolbox Free 1.1.17", which did not recognize the disk. Another software, "Isobuster 3.1", is able to recognize the amount of data saved on the disk after trying to read it for about 10 MINUTES (it reports 29.05 MByte, which is about the amount I expect), but when attempting to recover the data then, almost none of it can be read.

In the PAST, I encountered the phenomenon that some CD-R media could not be read reliably on some CD-ROM drives, but would be read just fine on other drives. Would anyone know a particular type of CD/DVD drive that can deal better with DIFFICULT cases like my unreadable CD-R?

Many thanks for any advice you might be able to provide!Wow! You really did TRY!
Did you find "CD Freaks" ?

A forum know formerly as  "CD Freaks" is now part of Myce.
Here is what they have to say...
Quote

Hey Unregistered! Welcome to Myce.com, we're a very friendly and easy going community about computer storage. We're experts on CD, DVD, Blu-ray, HDD and SSD storage. We're here if you need help or just want a chat. We love new members, so don't hesitate and join us now
...
http://club.myce.com/

I just purchased the GATEWAY KR-0350 Wireless Keyboard Only and wondered where I can purchase the software, MOUSE and receiver for ITI don't know what software you would be seeking.If the receiving unit (plugs into a USB port) and the keyboard both have fresh batteries in them it should be RECOGNIZED by windows and the necessary drivers should be available from within windows. Now as to finding the associated model mouse.You COULD try a GOOGLE search or e-bay or kijiji and you might get lucky. Most often mouse and keyboard are sold together.truenorthWhy would you purchase one without the reciever and mouse ? ?
I think you may want to cut your losses at this point and buy a full unit that's made to work together...
As always i recommend Logitech for both keyboards and mice...Good catch there patio i had not noticed the absence of the receiver as well. Your advice is appropriate.truenorthThanx...
That's what i would do... Quote from: patio on January 06, 2013, 06:04:42 PM

Why would you purchase one without the reciever

im fixing my brothers desktop for him and im stumped, tried heaps of methods found online but no luck. the COMPUTER posts fine, but after post it comes into an 'error mode' it says the following -
controller bus #00 device #1f function#02:03 ports, 02devices
port-00:harddisk, wdc...
             (this device is controlled by the RAID BIOS)
port-04:CDROM....
...
AHCI BIOS installed

anyone know how to fix it without a clean install?

things tried -
CMOS reset
resetting the bios to default
replacing cables
ubuntu drive
dell test features

--------------------------------------
computer info:
dell dimension e520
windows xp media centre edition 2006
What do you have in the way of discs?truenorthno system discs, lost them.Given the limited access you have to the computer you may not be able to do this.If you can enter safe mode you can try it from there.
http://www.ehow.com/how_6101451_create-center-boot-disk-preinstall.html
truenorth Quote from: yourfavouritegeek on January 05, 2013, 09:25:43 AM

no system discs, lost them.

Hello all,

I have this super old computer with a similar motherboard (which seems to be broken ). The motherboard is the Xcel 2000 Socket 370, and it has (I think) SIS 620/5595 chipspet and its processor was an Intel Celeron. and it supports DDR1. I tried finding the motherboard online to buy, expecting it to be cheap as it is pretty old I was shocked to see that prices aren't as low as I thought of them to be.

So I now need help finding a a similar motherboard, I have tried however I'm really inexperienced in this stuff D:
As far as I think, all this information should be right.

Thank You Not sure i UNDERSTAND...
How do you know it's the BOARD itself ? ?
For example it could be the CPU...in which case the new board would be a WASTE of money...
DDR1 if you are in fact looking to revive this PC isn't cheap as supplies are limited...
What are your goals...including budget for this old PC ? ?Firstly, thanks for the reply.

As far as identifying the problem goes, some engineer person checked up the computer and said that the problem is with the motherboard. I didn't bother checking anything else. The computer was in perfect working condition; it hadn't been used in a while and then suddenly stopped working.

I did some extra research on the mother. It is a ECS PS62-ML Slot A motherboard. It now makes sense why such boards would be EXPENSIVE, i'd thought that since they're old, people would sell them cheaply :\

I fancied bring back this computer from the grave to use as a dummy, test things out and such. Budget wise, I have all I need apart from (what has been said to me) a malfunctioning motherboard.

The the computer it powered, all that comes up it a black screen. Nothing more, nothing less. :?

I have a Acer Aspire 5515 Laptop computer and its operating system is WINDOWS VISTA. The wireless network adapter does not seem to be recognized with the computer anymore. It was initially, when I first bought the computer, but now when I unplug the ethernet cable the internet GOES off and doesn't recognize any wireless networks. When I run diagnostics it says that it needs to install the driver, but i went into device manager and the wireless network adapter is not in there. So I am at a loss on what to do. We tried to run Malwarebytes and AVG to see if it was infected with a virus, but it only FOUND two adware issues. We have updated the computer as far as it will let us in Windows update. There is nothing left we can do. If somebody has an answer to this issue it would be greatly appreciated.DLoad and re-install all the drivers from Acer's site...
MBoard chipset drivers go 1st.We tried re-installing the wireless network driver but it's not recognizing the wireless network hardware. I tried Acer website and typed in my device and it only has AROUND 5 drivers for download that aren't useful.

this started to happen when i found out my laptop does not continue reading dis sectors with DRevitalize 1.2 (HIREN BCD) after 5 DAYS of running it continuously.

its load meter under DELL logo would stuck and i can hear small clicking of hard disk when i came real close to laptop.

how would I able to GO to boot Options and boot to CD from this point?solved by removing that hard disk and change with ANOTHER ONE

Ok, slightly unusual problem here.

I have a Dell Inspiron 530S computer, running windows 7.

It USED to have Windows Vista installed. While Windows Vista was installed, I manually installed a graphics card; something from the NVidea family I believe. This was a few years ago. I installed the DRIVERS for it, and it worked fine.

I have recently formatted the primary harddrive and installed a clean and registered version of Windows 7, and now it can't find the graphics card; it using the hardware the came with the computer, Intel G33/G31. I've tried opening up the computer to find the NVidea graphics card, but cannot remember what it is supposed to look like.

So, what should I do? Is there a way to make Windows find and start using the NVidea graphics card, as opposed to the Intel G33/G31? The hardware should still be connected.
The link below claims to have the driver for your Intel Chipset Family.
http://www.pcpitstop.com/drivers/download/Intel%28R%29~G33%2FG31~Express~Chipset~Family.htmlIf you have a Nvidia card installed, check the BIOS setup and or device manager (for any flags or marks) regarding the video card model and install by the support SITE. You can also use speccy to check on the video card model.

Installing UPDATED drivers for the G33/G31 at least has allowed me to play some the of games I could before, although they are a bit slower.

The device manager cannot find the Nvidea card, not SURE how to check the BIOS setup.Pull the card out and run the FCC ID # on google and you will find the make/model #'s to locate the drivers...
It may also state what brand/model it is somewhere on the card itself.

So, normally when you see this subject you THINK "It's probably a virus" or "Just clean the registry" but it's not that type of problem. It's not that I turn it on and it's just so slow to turn on. It's not that at all. When I turn off my laptop, it seems to turn off just fine, except after windows seems to close. The screen turns off, but the computer stays on. I've waited for nearly an hour for it to turn off and it doesn't. I hit the power button once, and it turns right off without having me to hold down the button like if it froze. Then when I go to turn it on again, nothing happens. I thought it would be because my battery was crap. I couldn't have my computer unplugged for longer then 5 minutes before it shuts down. So, I took out the battery and had it plugged directly into the WALL, then tried to turn it on. I know it should turn on, because I've had to do it before, but it still didn't turn on at all. I have to hit the power button, and then wait over an hour for it to turn on. Then there is another strange occurrence. I am currently dual booting windows XP and windows 7. When I have it on XP, it turns on and off with no problem at all, but I have the problem when I boot it up from 7. That was the main REASON I installed XP, but direct 3D refuses to work so I installed 7 as well so I could play my games. I'm pretty confident it's a hardware issue, but I don't know why it only happens when it boots windows 7. Granted, it is an old laptop, a Dell Studio 1737 thats about 4 or 5 years old I do believe. If there is any information that anyone needs let me know, and I will post it. Any help at all would be very much appreciated. Quote from: strife98 on December 30, 2012, 07:06:04 PM

So, normally when you see this subject you think "It's probably a virus" or "Just clean the registry" but it's not that type of problem.

Actually, when I see that topic I normally think "Bad hard drive".

It's both on the same hard drive though :/. I could be a bad hard drive, once I can I will replace it and get back to you.

You want him to donate it to  you....AND pay the postage ? ?
OK...

I've never experienced this one before.....

When I try to boot up my laptop it freezes on the desktop with the blue hoop and mouse pointer showing.

I tried booting in safe mode with networking but it still froze.
I left it on to see if it would actually clear and work normally but it turned itself off after about 10 mins.
The laptop is running Windows 7 Professional 64bit.
The laptop is a HP g56

I can't remember much else about its spec.
Can anyone help me sort this please.
ThanksCan anyone help me at all with this problem, even if it's the most obvious of solutions, I'd really APPRECIATE it.
Any guidance no matter how small would be great, thanks!1) What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

2) Let's run some basic troubleshooting steps:

To check the ram, DOWNLOAD memtest (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot order in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility.

Hard Drive Diagnostics:

http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Make sure, you select tool, which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso type, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "Write image file to disc" option), to make the CD bootable.
For Toshiba drives, see here: http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=ServicesSupport/FujitsuDrivesUSandCanada/SoftwareUtilities#diagnostic
Thanks Allan,

I think I ran the memtest you intended me to but I'm not entirely sure as it came up Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool which ran automatically on boot up, is this supposed to happen?
I left it running and came back to a black screen and had to turn off the laptop with the button.
I turned it back on, it booted up to the desktop And froze but i could move the cursor this time.You did not follow the instructions properly. Please READ and follow the instructions above for running memtest.Sorry, I thought I had followed your instructions properly, my apologies.
Please tell me where I went wrong.
I burnt the .iso to cd, turned on the laptop and pressed f12.

It came up with the option to run the tool so I selected it.
I may be pressing the wrong function key.
Which one should I have pressed? Quote

Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool which ran automatically on boot up, is this supposed to happen?

It was FINE using a hdmi but now using a vga, the resolution was too BIG, so i fixed that but it was to ONE side of the monitor(TV) so I adjusted the SCREEN position on my graphics card settings but now everything is blurred to the side.
- AMD RADEON 6*** graphics cardWhy did you go to VGA?
Can you provide a photo of the screen?
Did you try and reset the graphics to normal?
The TV is supposed to auto-adjust the position. You should not have to do anything. Look for the auto-adjust on you TV settings.

Dell E1405 INSPIRON. When i was typing on laptop the screen became unstable&ID touch it and it would come back. Decided to restart. Came on with blue lines vertical with a black area on right side about an inch wide. What can I do? Tx in advance!
To eliminate some possibilities or produce some. Using the external ports of the laptop connect an external monitor (or equipped TV) can be via  VGA or HDMI connection cable and observe and report what the screen of the connected device displays. This will help to know whether the issue is video card based within the computer or is the laptop screen.truenorthSince touching the screen can toggle from a good image to bad, it SOUNDS to me LIKE a loose wire or a bad screen

My desktop pc bristles with USB 2.0 ports, front and back.

I have a wide assortment of items (accessories, perpherials, etc.) which plug in to these USB ports - recording mic, headset, Skype camera, printers (2), memory card reader, flash memory sticks, digital camera download cord, to name some.

I have never heard or read any discussion regarding "when" to plug or unplug these devices from my pc tower.  To clarify the question:
1) should the computer be shut down before plugging or unplugging?
2) can the computer be safely left on during plugging or unplugging? (Harm not likely to either the pc or the external device?)
3) does it matter at all?
4) is there a difference if the device is being connected for the first time (driver to be loaded) of if the device is already "known" by the pc?

Seems a simple question, but with so MANY cords at the ready I began to scratch my head.     Opinions welcome. The best way (in my case) to use usb devices is to plug only when you use them. The exceptions are printers, keyboard, mouse, webcam which are by designed usb interface devices that can be left alone plug either your system is turned on/off. While usb storages such as flash or portable drives can also be left unplugged during shutdown and powering up your PC, in my case, I've practiced removing them and using the safely remove hardware method. While usb devices are plug and play, a NEW device plugged in WOULD require a generic windows usb controller driver for the system to recognize and be able communicate with the new device and work properly. Windows would install the compatible device driver only once. Generally, it's a user preference on how you want these usb devices clogged your ports and desk. All USB devices can, by definition, be unplugged or plugged in without physical damage to either the device, port, or machine.

However, If the device is being used at the time, you'll have problems later. For example you shouldn't yank out a Thumb Drive while reading or writing files to it.

Personally I never use the "safely remove Hardware" option for Flash Drives, and I've not had problems, though of course past performance is no guarantee of future results, and many others have had problems.

Using the "Safely remove" option is ideal for storage devices, not because it requires a SPECIAL removal step, or even benefits from it, but the fact that it will only succeed if nothing is CURRENTLY using the device. Since if the device is in use when you unplug it you could lose data.

As for driver software, jason2074 covered that thoroughly.

About 6 months ago my cat spilled a cup of water on my laptop, I sat it on its side and let all the water drain out for a day or so then turned it on... the mouse and keyboard weren't working properly so we bought a mouse and keyboard to plug in and all has been pretty well since...  about a month ago I noticed the mouse on the laptop started working again and some of THEKEYS on the key board were working, but then the wifi button would blink on and off and wouldn't stay on anymore. Then I found out that if I held. down a random key thif youd e wifi would stay on, like the buttons wrre cross wired... basically all the buttons are crosswired on the keyboard at this point, which is OK because I have the plug in one... now, the problem is, when you turn the computer on, as soon as the wifi button starts up it immediately turns the computer back off, so it wont start up at all... the fan turns on, but the screen doesn't start up or anything because the wifi turns it back off...  my question is, is there any WAY to disconnect the wifi from the inside of my computer to see iif its causing all the problems?? Or what should I do???most laptop has a removable network card look under your laptop and see anything that is small and open able umm it should be the same size of an mmc(sd) card just a bit bigger and two wire attached two screw..remove the screw not the wire then gently remove it from your mother board or if u have no idea what am i talking about just tell me what is your laptop
My computer is a HP... I took the back off of it, which was three plates, then I unscrewed all the screws and tried to REALLY open it up but couldn't get it open, maybe I need to use a little more force, it almost seemed like it was glued shut or something... anyway, im gonna try to open it up again and see if I see what ur talking about, at this point I don't feel like I can hurt anything, I figure its a last ditch effort to try and save my poor computer. Thanks for your help, ill see how it goes!!! Thanks! You need the service manual to find out how it comes apart.  They're all different, there is no standard disassembly process.
Should have done something about it 6 months ago, the damage is done & now it's too late.  Buy a new laptop.

As of exactly a week ago, I bought a brand new HDD and reinstalled everything from zero. I used the back-up disks to go back to FACTORY settings. This morning my mother turned on the computer and what she said is that the computer started normally up to the log in SCREEN, only that there were no users, but a message SAYING that there is something that needs to be installed, and that the PC will restart automatically. When I woke up, the PC was turned off. When I tried to turn it on, the lights would go on as usual. All fans work properly, only that the monitor says "No signal", and the mouse and keyboard have no power. I tried taking out the RAM, and yes, there is the beep from the motherboard. I tried CHANGING the monitor, same result.
I have an HP Pavilion Elite HPE-410f, if that helps.In the meantime, before the PC wouldnt boot, I connected a bad HDD from a friend to see if we could save his files, but the PC could not boot, after I connected his (together with my HDD with the operational SYSTEM). and i didnt try booting up the pc since, so this is like a prelude to what happened to my mother.Does it boot to safemode ? ?
Did you re-install all the drivers from the driver CD ? ?

Hey guys, I just wanted to ask, im thinking of build a nice gaming computer ( my first ever) and i was wanting to know if my specs are going to be good enough... so here they are

1. Rosewill Black hawk mid-tower computer cases with 5 120 mm fans
2. Asus Sabertooth Motherboard.
3. AMD fx 8350 processor
4.G.skill 2x4 GB 1600 mhz ddr3 ram
5. Gigabyte 7870 HD 3 FAN gpu card 2 GB
6. OCZ ZT 750 W fully modular PSU
7. 500 GB WD blue 7200 rpm HDD
8. Asus CD/dvd Burner.
9.Cooler Master 212 + aftermarket cooler.
10.Arctic MX-4 Thermal Paste.
11. I also want to get a 2nd 120 mm fan for the cpu cooler making it a dual fan push-pull combo and I want to get another 140 mm fan for the case making it 2 top 2 front and 2 rear fans on the case...   Total cost is roughly $1350 in usDThat cooler master 212 is a really good CPU fan - unlikely you'll need anything else.

Those specs look pretty good. Personally I'd go with intel CPU and Nvidia GPU - looks like you are going with AMD and ATI... but thats more of a brand preference.

I would change the WB Blue to a Black for gaming. The blacks are HIGHER performance - and run hotter, but you have lots of fans so so probs there.

Looks like it's going to be a good build. Nice rig for the price - I'm green with envy lol.

RazorI would also recommend you for an Intel CPU, like the i7 or i5 along with a 2x8GB or 4x4GB of RAM. In terms of grapichs, that ATI should do just fine if you don't fancy an nVidia one. Quote from: Szulborze4d on January 10, 2013, 07:59:04 AM

I would also recommend you for an Intel CPU, like the i7 or i5

I have a Big Problem on my new build computer.
The problem is that it makes a beeping noise all the time.. and when i turn the power plan to High performance it goes totaly crazy! and then i turn it down to power saver and it gets quieter.. but still comes back like a pulse off smal beeps.. then i tried to put on high performance and go into a game (minecraft) and the noise went more or less away.. and when i exit the game it goes completly crazy again.. I have no idea of what the problem is.. but it is really enoying!

My computer build is this:
CPU: AMD A10 5800K
Motherboard: Gigabyte F2A85X-UP4
Graphics Card: ASUS Geforce GTX 670
Hard drive: Intel SSD 180GB
Lots of ram.

Please Help me out here! what should i do??Are you sure it's the right RAM ? ?
The Beep Codes will be listed in the GigaByte Manual as they are different for different BIOS's.

While your in there look up the RAM that is suggested for the MBoard.

It also may be a thermal alarm...did you apply thermal paste properly when mounting the heatsink ? ?The beeps are short and not so loud. And is just gong nonstop all the time, i cant find anthing abort and beep codes in det user manual.. The ram is kingston ddr3 ram and i should have ddr3 ram. I have a code in the motherboard that says A0, IDE initialization is started. I have no ideamof what this means..DDR3 is nebelous...there are different speeds...

These are what that board takes :  1866/1600/1333/1066.
Since your description of the beeps wasn't too detailed ...look at the BIOS screen on startup and post back with which BIOS it's using and we can hunt down some more info...
P.S. You never answered the 2nd question.Okei, so the ddr3 is 1600 so that should be fine. Bios versjon is F2, what kind of information do you need? When i mountet the cpu it was some kind of glue thingy on the heatsink so i think that is how it should be? I will film the beeps noise and share the film from YouTube here so you can see how it is.Okei, here is the video. you have to turn up the volume alot an listen carfully to hear it.. sounds like a fax machine.. it get worse on High Performance and is COMING alot when i do stuf on the computer, but when i enter into a game the sound goes away.. and comes back when exiting the game.. when i do nothing on the computer it is still there but more of a pulse.. Power supply is 850 W
HTTP://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eASgLiwnJB8I see also that when i am in a game (minecraft) CPU usage is on 55% and memory usage is on  2.96 GB and says its nearly close to full usage.. (87%) :/:/ i have 16 GB memory, and it says that 12.8GB is reserved for Hardware:/ WHATS wrong here??It sounds to me like you have been mucking around in all sorts of places looking for a gaming performance boost...
There's no way i can guess at which changes you have made and how to correct them...
BTW i hear no beeps in that vid...can't believe i actually watched a vid to diagnose an issue...
I do however hear the HDD thrashing itself to death in the background...is that the noise you are describing ?No it was like this from the first time i turned it on.. So i have 16 GB ram, 12.8 of those GB is Reserved to the Hardware.. how can i fix this issue??1st thing you should do is DLoad the Gigabyte user manual and check the QVL list for RAM vendors...these are actual brands/speeds that have been lab tested and known to work on that board...
All symptoms point to the RAM which you have provided zero info on other than it's speed.Okei, i got the QVL list of ram vendors and my RAM does not stay on that list! I have Kingston 16GB memory kit KHX1600c9d3k4/16GX. that is not on that list. i will buy me some new ram that is on that list and reply if it works or not:)I'm not saying you neccessarily HAVE to replace the RAM...what i'm saying is you need to determine why it's not being USED...
Have you tried it for example with just 1 stick ? ?
Or 2 ? ?

I'd certainly try that before just dumping the RAM you have.
From all the reviews i saw it seems it's a slightly tempermental MBoard...
PERHAPS it's something you have overlooked in the Manual.I fixed the Memory Reserved Problem by re-installing windows. but the weird sound from the bios is still there..I am pretty sure now after some research that it is the power supply that is making the noise:/ i have no idea how to fix it, or if i have to buy a new one..

I want to run two monitors on my desktop, but I only have ONE VGA PORT. I need advise on UPGRADING or adding a video card so I can run two monitors.

This is what I have:

Acer Aspire X1420G-U5832
AMD Athlon II X4 645 3.10 GHz quad-core processor
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
4GB DDR3 Memory
1TB hard drive
NVIDIA GeForce 6150SE nForce 430 with one VGA port

I'm not sure if you need any other information. If so I'm sure I can FIND it.

Thank youhttp://www.pchelpforum.com/xf/threads/better-graphics-card-for-my-sons-acer-aspire-x1420g-u5832.136971/Thank you for the tip.
But I'm not looking for gaming performance, I just need to be able to HOOK up two monitors. The NVIDIA  that I have in right now runs all my games without any trouble, it just doesn't support dual monitors. I don't want to have to buy anything but a new video card.
Thank you

hey guys first time posting on this forum. heard positive info bout this forum too.  We'll I was using pc Fri when suddenly keyboard quit.  out of nowhere.  I've tried many fixes and nothing but more frustration.  I hv no extra keyboard so u can only imge typing with on screen board. I've tried so many its hard to remember which I did.   at same time I was unable to mount my phone either. drivers and motocasst were already installed and ran on connected. herself is some fixes I tried.
1. updat . driver,  un install n reinstall, 
2.finding drivers in pc not regedit keys.
3.dell
4.chckdisk(work in this n setup,  not in safe mode)
5.chcked 4 avast left overs in HKLM kyboard.sys Not
6. batteries, taken apart,  look 4 hung keys, 
7. different usbci portSorry it would not let me finish then keyboard on Tab STOPPED.

I hv Dell dimension 4600 2gbRam, Intel ? , Windows xp SP 3, 250 GB memory.,
1 disk . Keyboard is dell WiFi with WiFi muse as well, 4  user accounts. I've paired them all in everyy combo u can imagine. When try to reinstall device, get " error code 41" . Usbstor , iv noticed is hidden from windows api and atapi as well. I'm SURE there is more but  can't quite remember everything. Hope some can help and thx in advance.At any case, you would need the PS2 or USB keyboard to start correcting or diagnosing the problem unless you provide what changes or happened going to the current issue at hand. Do you happen to have an open thread regarding a possible infection on another forum?yes on open thread . I received a reply last nite after I posted here. I did get 15 or 20 PUPs with Malwarebytes and some decrepencies and hidden items in either GMer or another rootki scans but hv yet to act on them without being 100% what I'm seeing. I'm kinda leanin more toward hardware or another user of PC messed with some configurations. I am really need in a work in board for work related things. just takes to long on tablet, 1 key at a time. on PS2 or USB ,I'm thinkin default was PS2? will check soon though, but not want in to do a whole lot while being helped by someone. will post a log of scan I ran last weekendYou can still go get a PS2 keyboard while you are working thru the Malware steps...
About 10 Bucks...here is that log from rootkit revealer with hidden files and stealth objects. got it working by the way and IM describe how right now on tablet. 

ROOTREPEAL (c) AD, 2007-2009
==================================================
Scan Start Time:      2013/01/09 14:06
Program Version:      Version 1.3.5.0
Windows Version:      Windows XP SP3
==================================================

Hidden/Locked Files
-------------------
Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.exe.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.exe.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.InstallManager.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.InstallManager.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.cdf-ms
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

Path: C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Local Settings\Apps\2.0\WQNAB300.RN5\P85G0NPT.CGA\manifests\DellSystemDetect.Localization.resources.manifest
Status: Locked to the Windows API!

so i decided to go back over everything i had tried while i was waitin to here from malware tech. i got to focusing on the Error code 41. that took me to the registry.  i was looking for devices in device manager.  so im looking into
HKL\system\currentcontrolset\control\class\{4D36E96B-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318} key. this is keyboard. after i  opened the value i looked thru list at right for upper filters and or lower filters. u might hv both or one. or maybe none. i was looking for the data at kbdclass because i had run avast security before and know the scanner driver for that would  sometimes causes  my problem. this driver is aswMBR.  and it was glarring right at me. some how when i had looked over weekend i missed it. so  i deleted the aswMBR data entry. exited. rebooted. and i was golden. i also read u can delete the who upper and lower filter entry for this same error code.  but before u go deleting things in the registry please make urself a backup. u can really screw urself if u dont. iv accidently deleted the boot.ini file with using no confirm before delete and no recycle bin. so things happen but its nice to have a backup. anyways still running thru virus scans. couldnt hurt. hope this can help someon else avoid the headache i had. i learned a lesson again that i learned in elemantary math. Double Check ur Work. thx again for replies Quote from: paul-81 on January 09, 2013, 08:16:06 PM

hey guys first time posting on this forum. heard positive info bout this forum too.  We'll I was using pc Fri when suddenly keyboard quit.  out of nowhere.  I've tried many fixes and nothing but more frustration.  I hv no extra keyboard so u can only imge typing with on screen board. I've tried so many its hard to remember which I did.   at same time I was unable to mount my phone either. drivers and motocasst were already installed and ran on connected. herself is some fixes I tried.
1. updat . driver,  un install n reinstall, 
2.finding drivers in pc not regedit keys.
3.dell
4.chckdisk(work in this n setup,  not in safe mode)
5.chcked 4 avast left overs in HKLM kyboard.sys Not
6. batteries, taken apart,  look 4 hung keys, 
7. different usbci port

Lately my toshiba satellite A205-S5853 is acting weird. When I power it up on battery, it powers on, the hd starts up, the fan starts up but everything shuts down in like a second. I thought it was maybe that the battery didnt have enough power, so I plugged in the AC cord, same thing, so then I figured maybe the battery was causing a short, so I took out the battery and unplugged it from the AC and pressed the power button to dissipate any static. Then I plugged in the AC and left the battery out. Same thing happened.

What is going on, can it be fixed without having to buy a new mobo  I'm not as knowledgeable as many of the experts on this board but until one of them chimes in with a SOLUTION I'll try to help.
 Does your machine have multiple memory modules installed? If so you can try removing the module from the lower slot 'B'. Then try STARTING your machine. If this "shuts down in like a second" issue still exist then REMOVE the memory module from the top slot 'A' and replace it with the module you previously REMOVED from the bottom slot 'B'. Now try starting the machine with the 1 module installed in the top slot 'A' only.
 If the issue still exist try this:
 I had an issue similar to yours on my Toshiba Satellite L355-S7915. I cured that issue via BIOS update. Hopefully this will cure your issue also.
Now if I can remember how I did it: 
Try pressing F8 KEY repeatedly immediately after power on. If this works then you should be able to select the start-up option 'Safe Mode with Networking'. Then download and install the BIOS update from Toshiba for your Satellite A205-S5853..
 Hopefully this will solve your issue. If not then I'll need to let one of our more experienced members help you.
Good luck! 
Mike

Hi there guys! I am in desperate need of help as I am currently having a problem with my onboard sound (I think it is most likely related to that but I am open to suggestions as to what else it could be). The problem that I am experiencing is that my sound to all applications and Windows is cutting off after anywhere from 5-20min of playing games or watching YouTube videos. When the sound crash occurs, no error POPS up, no sounds are made and there are no sorts of notifications as to tell what had went wrong. Also affected is any sort of video that is being played in Google Chrome (My Default Browser), example on YouTube ETC, the video will start to "lag" and play at half its normal speed.
 
I have tried to install the sound drivers (Realtek) that came with my motherboard CD, I have tried to install the latest sound drivers for my motherboard, I have tried to use the drivers that Windows installs by default if I do not install any drivers, I have tried re-installing Windows on 3 occasions now.
 
When I restart my computer, the problem is resolved but the cycle starts again and the sound only lasts for 5-20mins.
 
Things that I do for the problem to occur:
-Play games such as: Dota 2, Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 3 (basically any game I play triggers this sound crash)
-Watch YouTube videos
-Steam is running
-Teamspeak is running at times (but sound still crashed whilst this was uninstalled)
 
Things that I do that do not trigger the sound crash:
-Play audio (music only) using VLC Media Player and/or Windows Media Player
-Leave my PC on for EXTENDED amounts of time without doing anything with it (to check whether it is a time issue or not)
 
My motherboard: Intel DP55WB (Using onboard sound)
 
My speakers: Creative 5.1 Surround Sound speakers (can't remember the model)
 
My current sound drivers: Realtek AC'97 Drivers that came on my motherboard CD.
 
My current graphics drivers (not sure if this helps but it does seem to install the HD Audio Drivers (which I recently chose to not install when installing the graphic drivers), but sound still crashes with the NVidia HD Audio Drivers both installed and uninstalled): NVidia 310.70 Drivers
 
My current Direct X Version: 11
 
Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate 64Bit
 
Processor: Intel Core i7 860 (2.86GHz)
 
Graphics Card: Geforce GTX 560Ti
 
Harddrives: 64GB SSD (ADATA brand) and 3TB Seagate internal HDD
 
RAM: 4GB+4GB+2GB Ram sticks (Tried testing if the RAM was failing, but sound still crashes even when all RAM Sticks are individually inserted)
 
PSU: 720W Gigabyte Odin Power Supply Unit
 
Any Additional Information: I previously had this issue on my old 500GB hard drive but cannot remember how the problem was resolved (I think it gradually worked over time??? not 100% sure...) Then I bought my SSD and my 3TB internal HDD and installed Windows on the SSD and transferred all my data to my 3TB internal HDD. The problem has been occurring over since.
 
I have tried to be as thorough as possible in outlining my specs and any occurrences or error messages (lack thereof) and also what I have tried and failed with.
 
Please help me! This is quite an irritating problem and I have turned to every open door and failed to sort out this problem and I am also not sure purchasing a sound card would resolve this problem or not...
 
PS: This is my first time posting on CHF! Please let me know if I had made any errors in conduct (or have posted this in the incorrect place) or lack of detail and I will ATTEMPT to fix them as promptly and as best as I can. Thanks again guys!Welcome to the CH forums and i want to compliment you on your 1st post.It is very thorough in all respects.Given that you say this problem arose when "Then I bought my SSD and my 3TB internal HDD and installed Windows on the SSD and transferred all my data to my 3TB internal HDD. The problem has been occurring over since." would LEAD one to suspect that something was omitted when you set this new format up. This type of issue can involve a slow ISP rate but given that it only occurs after a significant time interval i see that not being likely.I see the problem likely being some driver not having been installed at the time of your creating your current configuration. Are you displaying any warning symbols in your device manager?truenorthHello there TrueNorth, thanks for the welcome and especially for the reply (I have been struggling with this problem for quite an irritating while now ). As far as I can see, I see no warning signals at all in Device Manager. I had previously encountered this problem on my previous harddrive (a 500gb HDD) which after some time (and I'm not sure how) the problem had been resolved (Honestly can't remember how ). However, I had recently re-installed this 500gb HDD and booted off it. The problem does NOT occur at all on this HDD and now only occurs on my Solid State Drive. This leads me to think that it has nothing at all to do with hardware, and, as you said, it may be software / driver related. However, I went back to my old HDD and looked at the installed driver versions for both my sound and graphics and any settings that could be different to those of my current setup on my SSD. I further went on and changed all the settings and installed all drivers to the "working" versions of those on my 500GB HDD. To no avail .

I would like to thank you very much for your reply as you are the first person in I think 2 months to reply to my issue Thanks for taking the time out to read about my problem and I hope we (and the community) can come up with a solution to this irritating problem.

- subz3ro999

PS: The sound takes much longer (maybe about an hour more or so) to crash in games like League of Legends and Warcraft III. [Not sure if that helps at all]

Hi computer EXPERTS,
What does this key do?  (It's NEAR the windows key on the RIGHT side of my keyboard)
Here is an attachment.

Thanks!

[year+ old attachment deleted by ADMIN]The Application key? It usually PERFORMS the same operation as a right-click wherever the focus is. Right now for example if I press it, I get the same menu that I do if I was to right-click on the post text box.

Whats a null MODEM?  Its a 9 pin serial CONNECTOR but, all I KNOW about ithttp://www.google.com/

Hello, I have a Sony Vaio SVE15115FXS that I purchased in September of 2012. I had only had the computer for 1 month, I took it to school in a case and when I got there I had a cracked screen. I honestly don't know how it happened, it didn't fall, no one else was in the car, I don't know but none the less, it had a cracked screen. I was not aware that I needed to buy physical damage warranty because a cracked screen isn't covered by the regular warranty. I needed my computer for school so I had hooked up my home computer monitor to my laptop which worked for about another month, then I couldn't get it to go on anymore. I tried and tried but nothing would work. While trying, I NOTICED that my comuter didn't seem to be making the normal startup sounds. All the lights work, but it just doesn't sound right. You can hardly hear it. Next, I left it alone for a while until I could afford to buy a new screen. I couldn't afford to have Sony fix it for me, even though it was only a month old so I ordered a screen online and changed it myself. I did everything just like the video instructed but it still isn't working. I never made a recovery disk, it was only working for a month. It's a brand new computer but I'm SURE fixing the screen myself voided my 1 YEAR warranty with Sony. I just don't know what to do next. I've already spent so much money and made so many mistakes, I just would like to hear some advise from someone who knows what they are talking about. I am running Windows 7. Classes are going to be starting in a couple of weeks and I need help. Anything would be appreciated.I can appreciate your anxiety and frustration due to what has occurred. Particularly since Vaios are quite expensive relative to other computers. Were i in your shoes i would elevate your warranty application to a considerably HIGHER level.Caveat being if there is a clear pronouncement within the warranty statement that came with the computer that such faults are NOT covered or there is any manifestation on the computer to an external damage event. I will cross my fingers re the next observation as to another possible solution=if by chance you made the original purchase with a credit card some credit cards have an extended warranty provision if a purchase is made with it.The provisions of the credit card warranty as well as extending the warranty period are always more inclusive than that of a vendor or manufacturer and are NOT dependent on the product warranty and in fact cover situations like yours even if the accompanying warranty excludes them or doesn't include them. I hope that was your purchase method.If you still have the damaged screen reinstall it before dealing with the warranty aspect.To me it is not unfathomable that a defect in the manufacture of the laptop could be at the basis of the damaged screen. Given your ADDITIONAL comments re the absence of "normal" startup sounds i suspect there is even more than the screen damage involved here.I wish i could be more helpful but i urge you to try my suggestion.truenorth
P.S. You also might want to investigate if any personal property damage insurance you have might cover this.First, I would follow TN's advice.  If that goes nowhere, then cut your losses & get a new computer.  You don't need to spend $700, Start shopping & you should have no difficulty in finding one for under $500.  Since the Sony is so new, you can sell it for parts, maybe getting $200.

I like the HP Probooks, because they are a business computer & have an excellent 1 year warranty, HP pays Fedex overnight shipping both ways.

Dear friends
Yesterday when Iturned my computer on there was a black screen wich was saying  (vga857 fon file is corrupted  missing Windows can not start)  well Ihave a computer   as old as me (Iam 63 ) machine is Toshiba m45 133s   so dvd  player died on me last year  and  the old relic does   not support  usb booting    I would throwed away   but I have  50GB of psd files +35 GB of waw and mp3 also 25 so GB  movies loaded with out spare if you give me an idea You make me a very happy person 
Omar  Baris
Do you have any operating system discs for this computer?Confirm that your operating system is windows XP? truenorthEasiest solution would be to get an external HARD drive enclosure...
I recommend one that has it's own power supply.
Also if you shop around there are a few that will accomodate any style of HDD so you are not limited to just using it with laptop size DRIVES...GIVEN patio's comments i suppose it is necessary to determine what your DESIRES are. I read your post as trying to recover your computer and also your concerns re files on the computer.truenorth

hi, on booting up 3 YEAR old Zoostorm netbook, the date and time ALWAYS appear as 1/1/2008, I ASSUME this is the cmos battery? is there any way to see if it is the battery, as I am not getting any error messages at all when booting up  other than date & time wrong? Using windows7 starter pack,
all other people with cmos battery seem to be getting error messages so confusing me..... is there anyway to check battery, or whether another problem before changing cmos battery?

thanks for any help....I would just REPLACE it...they are less than 5 Bucks.

Hi,

I have a dell desktop that I got about a year ago. Today I tried to turn the PC on and was not able to. Nothing happens when I push the power BUTTON and the PC makes a clicking noise. I opened the front over. The clicking noise is coming from the power supply.  Is the power supply dead?The question you should be asking is how do you test if the power supply is dead as you cannot get a DEFINITIVE answer WITHOUT the tests.

There are two things I'd do

1) Take out the power supply and try it in another computer if you have one. If it powers up the other computer it may not be the problem.

2) Put in a power supply you know is good into your faulty PC and see if it powers up. If it doesn't, and the old power supply powers up another computer it is a good indication that something else may be wrong. If it does power up with another power supply then the old power supply is most likely the problem and should be replaced.

(Disclaimer I am not a computer PROFESSIONAL. My suggestions should not be construed as such) Quote from: Razor on January 17, 2013, 12:56:26 AM

(Disclaimer I am not a computer professional. My suggestions should not be construed as such)

I burned a VIDEO my daughter made on a CD about 4 years ago on my OLD computer, I use to watch it a lot. I got a new computer last year and just found the CD, I go to watch it and I can't see the video, I can hear it but can't see it. When I put the CD in it opens,  the video reads  "Type of file-VLC media file (.avi ). When I click on the video it starts PLAYING on my "windows media player". Do I have to download a different video program so I can see it. Not sure why I can see it on my new compter, any ideas? What player are you USING ? ?I'm using windows media player to open it...Try VLC Player...still Free.I installed VLC player and it works, I can see the video now. THANKS for all the help...Excellent...we love success stories here....

I have two computers, computer A is running XP Professional, computer B is running windows 7 professional. Computer A is setup with dual flat panel monitors and a Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse. I am in the process of adding computer B. I believe I can share the dual monitor, keyboard and mouse as well as audio by using a switch but am not exactly sure what I need. Computer A is using an invida quadro fx530 video card, computer B is using an invidia quadro 2000.
computer A was my cad computer plus a lot of junk, I want to dedicate computer B to cad only.

Thanks in advance for any help.

DennisKVM Switch:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switchI have been using KVM switches for a long time. However there is one part of the O/P's REQUIREMENT that i would like to see explained via the KVM switch route it is this "A is setup with dual flat panel monitors". Given that a single CONNECTION will COME from a single monitor to the KVM switch how is the "dual monitor" use going to get into the picture? It has been my experience that the usual desire for the utilization of a KVM switch is in the opposite direction IE. depending on the KVM switch used they are DESIGNED to allow 2 or more computers to use ONE set of  mouse/keyboard/monitor for ALL the computers connected via the KVM switch. Given that the introduction of the second computer is desired to be able to use as does the current "A" computer "dual" monitors how will that be configured. Not saying it cannot be done i just cannot see how.truenorthBuy a pair of switches.
Once on the right track I found the correct unit (I hope) It is a "2 port dual monitor KVM switch" from the simplified layout I saw it should work. Thanks for the quick responses.Good luck.I  would be very interested to see how "a dual port" KVM switch will allow 2 computers to connect to 2 monitors. Please come back after the installation to tell us your findings.truenorthSorry took so long to get back, darn work. System is up and running, belkin kvm. I am now switched, I have video on both monitors from the windows 7 computer, listening to music from my XP computer. Keyboard and mouse works for both computers and video is whichever computer is switched on. Just follow the directions that come with the switch, love this system.Thought we had lost you. Glad to hear that you have achieved your OBJECTIVE. I am very curious as to how you achieved this with ONE dual KVM switch. I have used KVM switches for a very long time and thought i understood them. As i use it there is ONE monitor and two computers.The KVM switch has input links for VGA/Keyboard and mouse from each of the two computers.Then there is an output connection to ONE monitor via VGA.So HOW are you getting the one KVM switch to send signals to TWO monitors? I do know that windows 7 has the ability to send video to a 2nd monitor/TV as desired through the keyboard windows/P keys but i don't see the relevance of that here.truenorthApparently this is VERY possible now, and has nothing to do with whether you are using XP / Vista / 7 / 8.  I did a quick search on Newegg just now and found a number of 2 port and even 4 port dual monitor KVM's.  The number of ports translates to the number of computers you can have hooked up, and the "dual monitor" is self explanatory.  The link below is for a 4 port dual monitor KVM that allows you to even connect and share audio and even USB devices with all 4 of the connected computers as well, which is a huge benefit.  Obviously other resellers carry same or similar products and there were a number of different products listed on the Newegg site I searched.  As of this date the 2 port models ranged from just under $100 to the mid-$100 range and the 4 ports ranged between around $200-$400, depending upon brand and features.   I was impressed with the features of the IOGear model that I have included in the following URL.  If you read far enough down into the page for this item, there is a very good description/example of how this device can be configured and used.

Hope this helps! 

KVM Model:  IOGEAR GCS1744 4-Port Dual View KVM Switch w/Audio and USB

URL:  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817107454

P.S. This is my first post in this forum.  I came here because I have  been using a 4 port, single monitor KVM setup, and use dual monitor on my primary computer only.  I have always wished for a solution that would allow me to share dual monitors throughout all of my attached computers.  On a whim today, I decided to Google search to see if anyone had finally come up with a dual monitor solution, and came across this forum post.  Seeing a glimmer of hope, I did some more research and wanted to pass along my findings.  Thanks for the initial post and replies that peaked my interested to do some more searching.  I am really excited to find the above KVM -- it's going to be my next purchase fo sho (along with a couple more dual video cards for my other computers!).

Apparently he solved his issue...he hasn't been back since June...

Hello everyone! I've got a slightly aged computer I have hooked up to a 1080p HDTV that my family use to watch shows and such over the internet. It struggles to play video at that resolution, EVEN with the Radeon HD 5450 we bought for it. The weird thing is, it stutters the same amount whether I have it at 1080p or 360p, so I don't think it's just the hardware, but that's what section of the FORUM we're in so lets start there:

Here's the specs:

It started out as a Dell Inspirion 530s.

Processor: Intel Pentuim E2160 1.8Ghz
Mobo: Dell Inc. ORY007
RAM: 2 sticks, a 1GB and a 512MB
HDD:Western Digital WDC WD3200AAKS-75U4A0
Graphics: XFX Radeon HD 5450
PSU: 250 Watt
OS: Win Vista SP2 32bit
It's hooked up to a SHARP HDTV through HDMI


Thanks in advance!I'd launch task manager and watch your Memory and CPU usage when trying to play videos etc. This will show you were the system is starving for resources, if that is causing the issue.

I would upgrade to 2GB RAM, as well as find a more powerful CPU to stuff into it if the RAM upgrade doesnt fix this. 1GB is light for Vista for what you want it to do. Also I assume your Videocard is 512MB or more dedicated GPU memory and not a lower end 256MB video card.

 Below is copy/pasted from: http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/19372573.aspx

Quote

The Inspiron 530s has a FoxConn G33m02 motherboard made to Dell's specifications and will support the following Socket LGA 775 processors:

Intel Celeron processor 430                                       
Intel Celeron Processor 420 (1.6 GHZ, 800 FSB)
Intel Pentium Dual-Core 2140 (1.6 GHz, 800 MHz FSB)
Intel Pentium Dual-Core 2160 (1.8 GHz, 800 MHz FSB)
Intel Pentium Dual-Core E5200(2.5 GHz, 800 MHz FSB)
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 (1.8 GHz, 800 MHz FSB)
Intel Core 2 Duo E4400 (2.0 GHz, 800 MHz FSB)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6320 (1.86 GHz, 1066 MHz FSB)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6420 (2.13 GHz, 1066 MHz FSB)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6550 (2.33 GHz, 1333 MHz FSB)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 (2.66 GHz, 1333 MHz FSB)
Intel Core 2 Duo E7300 (2.66 GHz, 1066 MHz FSB)
Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 (2.80 GHz, 1066 MHz FSB)
Wolfdale Core 2 Duo, E8400, 3.0GHz, 6MB, 1333FSB, 65W, E0
Wolfdale Core 2 Duo, E8500, 3.16GHz, 6MB, 1333FSB, 65W, C0
Wolfdale Core 2 Duo E8500 (3.16 GHz, 1333 MHz FSB)
Wolfdale Dual Core Kit, E8600, 3.33GHz, 6MB, 1333FSB, 65W, E0

Also, the Intel Pentium E6500 2.93 GHz dual core processor.

 Prior to installing the processor you need to check that you have BIOS Version 1.0.15, or higher, when support for new Intel CPU's was added.

Note: Core 2 Quad processors are not supported by the Inspiron 530S [Slimline]

RAM: 2 sticks, a 1GB and a 512MB

Hi,

For a while my laptop screen would GO blank and I would have to switch it off. I could switch it back on again and it would be fine. This started happening more and more FREQUENTLY until I couldn't get it to start at all.

When I switch on, it gets as far as the starting Windows screen and then goes blank but bright (pic 1). If you leave it sitting it then turns to a stripey screen (pic 2). I have the same problem when I try to start in safe mode. I also tried restoring and reinstalling from the original disks, but still the same problem.

Has anyone seen this problem before? I'm not SURE if the hard drive has died, if it's a video or other problem. I was about to order and install a new hard drive, but don't want to do that only to find out it's something entirely different.

Thanks.



[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]run diagnostics on your computer i bet u have a hard disk problemError #10008-Replace Hard Disk1. Thanks!Funnily enough, I was working on this again last night...

I ordered and installed a new hard drive. Got the message 'no operating system installed' so installed the recovery disks. I formatted the hard drive and restored the laptop to FACTORY settings. Still the same problem .. windows is loading files and then the blank screen.

I ran the diagnostics again and now GETTING #10000 - passed.

We just put in windows 8 an have a network scanner/printer HP OFFICE jet 4500 but, not sure how to GET the thing to scan to have it emailedhttp://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-use-a-scanner.html

Hello, I recently UPGRADED from Windows 7 64-bit Ultimate to Windows 8 64-bit Pro, for the first week or so everything worked fine, but then after restarting one day the disc drive disappeared from the My Computer window, and when a disc is inserted it does nothing. The disc drive is installed properly  and all cables are in, also it shows up in the bios and in device manager. In device manager it shows an explanation mark though. Under device status this message appears

Quote

Windows cannot load the device driver for this hardware. The driver may be corrupted or missing. (Code 39)

{Unable to Load Device Driver}
%hs device driver could not be loaded.
Error Status was 0x%x

Alright, so Windows does recognize it's plugged in, the driver just isn't working.

First off, when you say everything worked fine you specifically remember using this drive during that time?

I also found your driver on the LiteON site http://us.liteonit.com/us/bd-internal/item/bdinternal/ihes212#
They recommend their SmartPack tool for drivers. I'd suggest trying it out.

When you say disc drive do you mean cd or dvd drive? If so, here are some things to try:

1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...

2. Delete Upper & Lower Filters
 http://support.microsoft.com/kb/982116
Restart computer.
or...

3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...

4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

gud morng sir! In my desktop as i switch on my power button of cpu. A long beeping NOICE with small interval countinues til i switch of thf cpu. And there is no DATA in the monitor it stays blank totaly blank. Please reply with details on the specific make and model of the computer and the operating system on it. Was there anything you did or changed immediately prior to this situation occurring? truenorthA long beep at boot is indicative of one of two things:

EITHER something is pressing on one of the keyboard keys or

A piece of hardware is failing or has failed.sir its compaq presario 1931il with 512mb ddr2 ram and 160gb hd. No sir i didnt change anything.In the event that you do not have the original users manual or detailed information about this computer which was made by HP for the market in India here is a link for it.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documentSubCategory?tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=in&product=3251389
As Allan has stated this could be a symptom of a hardware component problem To the extent that you feel comfortable doing so you can try a few things yourself to see if you can determine which part is causing the issue. You can remove all the RAM modules (though if you only have the original 512MB it may all be on one module) then put them in one at a time to see if you can get the computer to run. If you only have one then you will need to borrow or purchase  a RAM module to replace it--with no guaranty that that is the problem.Your video card may also be failing. The hard-drive could have failed. If you feel you are able you can remove the HDD and temporarily connect it to another computer to see if it is recognized.You don't need to actually install it into the other computer only connect it properly via the power and data cables. You can also ensure that all the cables attaching hardware devices are securely attached. You could also examine the motherboard for any signs of leaking or swollen components. If you elect to do any of this make sure the power connection to the computer is removed and that you touch the cabinet of the computer prior to TOUCHING anything inside.truenorthi replaced the ram. The sound dissapeared. But the screen stil remained blank.When you turn on the computer now tell us what lights (front or back of the tower) are seen. With the side of the tower enclosure removed are all the fans running? Are the fans MAKING any different sounds? Can you try your current monitor on another computer? Is the video card part of the motherboard or is it a stand alone video card?truenorth

was wondering if anyone COULD help, i have a hp d330 ut (dl378p) that runs on xp pro, and i wanted to instal my creative sound card,  IVE installed it correctly but the plug n play wont register or PICK up drivers for it, says the software cant be found ... i have a disc for the card and when i use it, it comes back with the card not being recognised... but when i take the card out and place it back in, it is recognised thru plug n play but it just wont load drivers ... i DONT have a recovery disk for this pc, and was thinking from what i have read thus far that i may need to instal the motherboard drivers again, if so, can anyone help me find what i need? or any advice at all, thanks in advance Is the link below for your Desktop?

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DocumentIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&contentType=SupportManual&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=342066

Have you never had the sound card working?yes it is the link for my desktop, i bought this off a trademe site, and no, i have never had the creative card working in it since i got it, which is recently ... however the onboard sound works Don't trust Plug and Play.

You need to turn off the on-board sound in the BIOS.
And remove the PCI sound card.

Reboot to windows and let it discover there is not sound.
Power down, restart and install the Creative drivers  and programs  from the CD.
Power down again, insert PCI card.

Reboot and let windows find the card and make sure is finds the drivers,
If Windows still does not find the drivers, do the install of the Creative CD again. And reboot, if needed.

One more detail; the BIOS may have a plug and play option. Try both ways.
That is the BEST I can do.
I gave all you said above, a try, but to no avail.... ty for you time and input though, much appreciated!Test the sound card in another working PC...
If it's duff they arent that expensive to replace...

i open NEW office and looking for computer that can working up to 15-24 hour a day

for financial business

unlimit budget


is there anything that i should CONSIDER ?

SRY for bad ENG.  Any computer you choose should be fine.

i was using my computer when it just closed down so i restarted it but to no avail it just restarts and restarts
i was told buy a new Hdd but that DIDNT work either can you help meHi there,

Start the computer and repeatedly hit the F8 key; which will take you to the "Windows Advanced Options Menu".  This should (hopefully) bring up a menu for you.  Try accessing "Safe Mode".  If that doesn't work try it again expect this time try the "Last Known Good Configuration).

If either of these work for you I would transfer all of your IMPORTANT data to another device (like a USB Flashdrive) and re-install your Operating SYSTEM.

Hope this works for you.

Regards,
Base2Please explain the problem IN DETAIL. For example:

1) Tell us about your system and OS

2) What is new or different SINCE the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

3) EXACTLY what happens when you try to start the system (how far does the boot process get, do the lights come on, etc)?

So far, your problem sounds more like a power supply or ram or some other hardware than the hd.

I am working on a motherboard for a Presario F700 and I think I messed up one of the connectors for the USB/power jack board/chipset.  I attached photo.  I don't mind not using the usb so my hope is that the two sets of wires do different things (one for usb and one for power) can anyone tell me which is for power (or if both are)?  The short one or the long one?  in the photo the connector on the right is the one that is messed up (long wire goes to it) and the connector on the left is ok and the short wire connects to it.  much thanks

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Replacement cable could probably be found on ebay or amazon if you can locate the part number for it.

The Red/Black 2 wire plug is power. The other one with 4 wires is the USB cable which is both USB Power and Communications. *From the looks of it, they are powering this DAUGHTER board for the USB through the Red/Black  2 wire plug that has no problem from what you stated. However if this daughter board is a combination USB and Laptop Power connection type daughter board, the USB portion can be disconnected  where you have your arrow pointing to the connector of 4 or 5 wires and LEAVE the 2 wire red/black portion of the cable connected so that you can still charge your battery and run it off of the wall outlet etc. Without a view of the ports on this daughter board I figured I'd mention that. Some are USB only and others have multiple purposes such as ETHERNET, Audio, DC Power to Battery Charging Circuitry, etc and are designed this way with featrures on daughter board so that if cable(s) are yanked from laptop, its not damaging the main motherboard, but instead an inexpensive daughter board which makes for a cheaper and easier repair.

I bought a USB daughter board with cable for a Toshiba on ebay to replace a busted USB port for a customer and it cost me just $20 for a good used one with free shipping. But if you have no need for this USB port and do not wish to replace the damaged cable, I would remove the cable to AVOID damage to the laptop. The laptop will run without this cable, but the USB port will not function.

My brother just got a 3tb hdd and im trying to set it up for him and i cant find it on my COMPUTER; When i plug it in, windows makes the sound that new hardware has been plugged in, says its installing the drivers or w.e, and nothing else happens. When i go to "SAFELY remove hardware," it shows up with no drive letter. I have an identical 3tb hdd also hooked into my computer, but ive changed its drive letter since i bought it. The new hdd does NOT show up under disc management either. help? im running windows 7 btwExternal or internal ? ?
I assume SATA...it probably needs to be formatted before Win will recognise it...
Is it showing in the BIOS ?external usb 3.0

ok under bios, i SEE:


USB STORAGE DEVICES:
WD My Book 1140 1012 (i think this is my 'old' hdd)
WD My Book 1140 2016 (i think this is his new hdd)

EDIT: now under disk management, HIS is showing up in place of mine. i think.
Mine was named "Foxtrot" (for the 'F:'). whats showing up now is 'sean hard drive (F:)'

EEDIT: This is definitely related to it somehow; the F: drive that is now showing up is NOT my 'Foxtrot' where i have all my backups etc.
If F is the next available drive letter that would explain that...
Is the FORMAT option available in disk management ? ?

Or are you saying your F drive is still connected ? ?my drives are C: (os is on there), E: (programs on there), (used to be)F: where i put all my pics/documents/video.

I formatted the new hdd, changed its drive letter to S:. The old hdd was not showing up, so i unplugged the new one and plugged in the old one. The OLD one now shows up with drive letter S:. Dafuq?
Yes the format option was available under disc management. It seems though i can only have one connected at a time, otherwise the only way i can recognize it is through the bios?Probably ...the MyBooks are somewhat quirky...
If you want the drive letters for each to be retained then assign the drive a Volume Label via DM...
Don't use the same letter for both. Quote from: patio on January 16, 2013, 05:21:00 PM

assign the drive a Volume Label via DM...

I recently installed my asus nvidia graphics on my new computer and for some reason the monitor disconnects and the sound goes out  after playing a videogame for like 2 minutes but the computer is still running.
I upgraded all drivers except for SM bus controller mainly because i don't know what it does.
does anyone know why this keeps happening ?

Im not quite SURE yet but i think my power supply might not be strong enough.
How many watts is the power supply and which video card are you using since power DEMAND varies among cards?my power supply is 430 watts and i have
 Asus Nvidia Geforce 7950 GT
512 mb
Thats an older video card. Have you checked into the operating temps of this video card and are you pushing this older card too hard to play modern games?


I have seen GPU's / Video Cards fail and take other stuff out with them vs just video. I'd run a program such as speedfan and watch your GPU temp idle etc, and then play a youtube video etc with it full screen etc and monitor temp, and then start a game up for a minute or so as to not get the video card to crash, but to SEE if you are roasting your GPU, such as press the Windows Key to exit out of game etc and look at temps.

Also make sure the fan is spinning and not clogged with dust on the heatsink.

430watt power supply should be plenty unless its starting to weaken or its a cheap chinese power supply such as the 500watt that I got in a cheap case that is pretty much a 250watt labelled as a 500watt since it can not handle heavy LOADS and its very cheaply made and small in dimensions.my gpu temp went from 80 to 99.'C when i started up minecraft for like a minute

Im thinking either my fans aren't doing their job or my graphics card maybe be too old to run these games

and also my power supply is thermaltake TR 430w
When you get the chance, point an AC fan at the computer and see what happens.

I'm having issues with audio in Windows 7 (32 bit) Ultimate edition. Motherboard: ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe. I have disabled the on board audio (in BIOS)...installed a PCI audio card... I will get audio for about 10 seconds of CONTINUOUS PLAY on YouTube or any other audio source, then the sound just simply goes away. PCI card is a StarTech PCISOUND4CH... Would love to get this one figured out...

Thanks for reading...

-TroyCurious as to why you disabled the intergrated sound and are using a low quality Startech audio card? Was this audio issue present prior to installing this StarTech card and thats why you installed the StarTech brand audio card?

LOOKING here, I see they dont have any Win 7 32-bit drivers. http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=A8N-SLI%20Deluxe&p=1&os=17 Have you tried to install Windows XP Pro 32-bit drivers for the integrated audio with the StarTech audio card removed. You will need to right-click on the Windows XP Audio Driver and perform a runas administrator, and might also need to select to run the Audio Driver installer under Windows XP SP3 compatability mode.

I ran into issues with an older ( Made in 2002 ) motherboard that had an Intel 845 chipset and Intel only made drivers supporting up to Windows XP for it, with no future support for Vista, 7, or 8. I was able to do this trick with my Windows 7 32-bit installation on that Pentium 4 to install the correct video driver, a Windows XP Driver forced to Windows 7 32-bit with no PROBLEMS and got my 1024x768 resolution I needed vs the default generic driver Windows 7 wanted to use at 640x480 with 256 colors. However my daughters computer using a Foxconn motherboard running a Pentium D 3Ghz did not like Foxconn XP Audio drivers under Win 7 32-bit and so I ended up using a StarTech USB Audio adapter and Windows 7 32-bit detected that perfectly fine and both the sound and microphone ports work flawlessly. The USB audio adapter was like $12 at newegg. I have since then bought another because I found out that my motherboard a Biostar MCP6PB M2+ with realtek integrated audio works for audio out but microphone does not work under Windows 7. I plugged my headset into this USB StarTech adio adapter and I now have sound and microphone for chatting with others online as a cheap quick fix. Sadly this motherboard is only 4 years old from 2009 and Biostar does not have Windows 7 drivers for it, and Realtek's website isn't much help as well.Send the card back for replacement.

Hello all,

I am writing since when attempting to play COD: Black Ops or Rainbow Six: Ravenshield I get a black screen.  Now with Ravenshield I get the black screen BUT can HEAR the music playing in the background, with Black Ops I only get the black screen.  When I also attempt to run the games it gives me an error saying the game stopped unexpectedly and do I wish to start in safemode. I try to start in safemode but get a black screen and then it minimizes and all I see is my background.  The computer doesn't shut down nor does the monitor.  I just BOUGHT a new GPU Asus Nvidia Geforce GTX 550 Ti, back in NOV2012, running it 1680x1050 (32 bit) 59Hz.  Running Windows 7 with an i5 760 2.80 quad with 8 gb ram and two 500GB HD.  I also have a 650 PSU.  With my HD i run my OS on one and my games on the other. I have also uninstalled my games that I normally play and reinstalled them, with zero results.  I have gone to the manufactures website and downloaded any kind of updates to my GPU and PC.  I do not run a current IE due to work related issues and security MEASURES.  I have also tried to run a benchmark with 3DMark but was unable to run it and it just froze up.  I built this computer back in Apr 2011 and was proud since it started right up and was going smooth.  Hoping that someone has a solution to this or else I just might have to GO computerless for awhile if I have to take this into the shop. ThanksAlso as an update, I have contacted Asus about the GPU and they are further looking into it.  I do not know what the problem is and I HOPE it is not something with the mobo.  I am thinking it might be an update that happened and had a bad component with it.  This problem has been happening since a little over a month ago.  I have been playing COD and ravenshield with zero problems and then I get the error message stating the program stopped unexpectedly and that I should start in safemode.  I go into task manager and it says the program is running. I click on it , it pops up, then goes black, then turns back onto my desktop.  I then go to my task manager click on the icon and end that process.  It takes a while but finally ends.  Thanks againWhat brand PSU are we talkin about here ? ?PSU is an ANTEC 650.If that card is OC'ed revert back to stock settings...if still no change my 1st suspect would be a dodgy card.The GPU has not been overclocked, since I do not have the knowledge or experience in that.  I have kept it at the default settings and have not changed a single thing on it.

Hello

I have recently bought a Xonar DX soundcard and there is something awkward going on when I record from "Wave" or "Stereo Mix":

(Click image to view full size)

Recording Volume is set to 100% but the sound is very low in comparison to "SPEAKERS".
When recording wave or stereo mix there is an echo effect which i haven't found a way to turn off.

I have tried drivers from CD, latest and PREVIOUS version without result.

I'm running latest DRIVER on Win7 x64 with an analouge 5.1 surround system and discovered this when i tried to use Fraps to record a video.


What to do?
Thanks in advance.Update: I have tried something named ASUS XONAR Unified Drivers 1.64

It did fix the problems above, but for some reason DirectSound is somehow set to Stereo and this really ruins the experience of many games and even videos on youtube/flash and windows media player.

I have reinstalled and upgraded the drivers in pretty much every possible way I could think of and fiddled with every setting i though might make a difference

What to do now?Card was sent on RMA because the first issue CAME back.

Got another Xonar DX now and it actually does what it's supposed to.


Problems Solved.

I have a XPS 730x with a 0P270J mother board. I am looking at ADDING two  eVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD SuperClocked Graphics Cards (012-P3-1573-AR) and two VisionTek 450W Dedicated Graphics Power Supplys.
 I have looked a NVIDIA's compatibility charts and the do not list this mother board?
 The cards need also (i think) 550watts. I cannot find any info on how MUCH wattage the motherboard supplys to each card so not sure if adding the 450 watts is anough?
 I hope I explained this correctly. I will supply any info you might need.

 Based on the info provided i would get at least a 650W PSU...
P.S. Don't buy a cheapo unit...

As far as the addon VisionTex UNITS i wouldn't trust them if i spent that much on a vid card...just my OPINION. The pc's psu is 1000w. I think the Mother board supplys 75w? not sure?
 I cannot find a larger Dedicated Graphics Power Supply that fits a 5.25” Bay?
 ThanksBTW The "VisionTex"? Yes there are other brands (all are no larger than 450W)(that I can find). I have not checked into the quality yet. Want to make sure they will work first.
 Thanks again!!

Alright, so you see I have been wanting to get a  AMD FX-4100 3.60 GHz Quad-Core with a gtx 660 2g non ti for a while now but on this website where i can build my own pc from a wide verity of CHOICES I get a free upgrade from the 4100 to a AMD FX-6100 3.30 GHz Six-Core and it has a frame count and it GOES down, my question is why do the estimated frame count go down?
Welcome to CH.
So you have done some homework. You crave the AMD FX-4100 3.60 GHz Quad-Core CPU.

What is your budget? Do you already have the STUFF to support a quad-core AMD CPU? Do you have a GRAPHICS CARD to match up with your choice of CPU?

Have you considered getting a new motherboard or the CPU?

The board in the photo is about $200 in the USA. It has lots of good stuff. But there a re many other choices.
Now about that CPU. It is already kind of old. But having the newest is not always so great. So, I thin k your choice is good.

(Sorry if this is the wrong place)

Hey guys. I'm looking to get a new laptop. Being a college STUDENT, I'll be using it at class and inbetween classes (As my classes are spread out so I have wait time). I'll be using it for word processing and programming projects for class. But on the other side, I'll be using it for general usage and I'd like to play a couple games on it and such.

The main GAME I'm looking interested and wanting to play is ArmA II: Operation Arrowhead but I don't know how well I could get that running on a Laptop and if it'd be affordable.

I'd prefer a Windows OS, preferbly Win 7 but I wouldn't mind Win 8.

So I was wondering, do you guys have any suggestions about getting a laptop, and any ideas what might I be able to do/play on the laptop, specifications, extra info etc etc.

I have a budget of about $800, maybe a little more. I'd like to do some research before I go out and buy something.You might be interested here http://gaminglaptophome.com/best-gaming-laptop-under-800-dollars/  Lenovo and HP brands online site are also worth the look IMO.Thank you. Looks interesting. Do you know anything about the Graphics card on that?

Alot of the other specs look really nice but I'm unsure of how GOOD the Graphics card is (As some games take a bit more). Whats your opinion on Acers? I haven't had one before so I don't know them very well.You could try out Tigerdirect.com or Newegg.  They have some refurbished laptops that are practically brand new.    What about:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&linkCode=as2&tag=gamlaphom-20#productDetails

    It says:

    Graphics CoprocessorNVIDIA GeForce GT 630M

    But if you scroll down more on the page about its "Specifications", it says it has a:

    Graphics card
    AMD Radeon HD 7640G Discrete-Class graphics and up to 3053MB total graphics memory

    I don't use Amazon all that much, but would this be a good buy? It's cheaper than the other so I'm worried it won't be as good as it "appears to be". But it's a quad core.
    I just wanna say I appreciate the help. I know a few things from my hardware class but I'm still learning and this insight is very useful.

I have the toshiba pro laptop model SPM 30, it was running slow, so I thought I would put it back to factory settings with the disc that came with the laptop when I had this new, I loaded the disc called product recovery DVD-rom, after it as now loaded, I get this blue screen flashing up very fast, I cannot READ what it says on it because it is to fast, the operating system is XP, can you helpThe error message says - the system is not fully installed, please RUN set up again, I have done this 6 times, but it just goes to this error message or this blue screen flashes up with errors, I cannot read this due to to the speed it flashes up.Now goes to the desktop, then flashes to h blue screen, switches off, switch itself back on, Keeps on doing this and going in circlesI would run a program such as seatools on the hard drive to make sure the hard drive is healthy. I had a laptop act up like this a few months back where it was acting slow, and decided to install winows xp pro clean. Upon installing clean it would boot to part of the startup and blue screen and reboot. I ran seatools bootable CD on this laptop and found out that the drive had multiple bad sectors and S.M.A.R.T was reporting failures. Swapped the troubled 20GB hard drive with another 60GB hard drive that I had and the system was then fixed after installing the OS to it, and was no longer acting at a snails pace but nice and fast like when new.

*In order to use seatools your hard drive has to be a seagate or maxtor brand... if another brand you will need to locate the manufacturers diagnostic tool download or you can burn a copy of Linux Fedora 17 to DVD or make a bootable thumb drive, which has a pretty good hard drive utility which can diagnose problems with any drive that can be addressed.When the system first start tap on the F8 Function key to get to the Advanced Boot Options Screen. Once there, select "Disable Restart on System Failure" and reboot. You should see the blue screen error now. Please post the entire contents of the error message.Many thanks for the info, that done the trick, follow the lick below showing the blue image & info on my screen, hope somebody may help me on the image/link below showing the errors, sometimes it goes to the desktop for a minute, then goes to the blue screen with the errors   

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/photo4ju.jpg/I can get into the desktop and do system restore, done this back to dec & nov 2012, I still get he shutdown with the blue error screen, is there any thing I can do while ism on the desktop, Thanks AlllanDownload BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyMany thanks for the reply, i cannot get onto the internet on the damaged laptop, i will ask my daughter to burn your info onto a disk, see links below showing the errors i have to send to Microsoft because it shuts down, does these images help you with some help for me

 http://imageshack.us/f/585/photo7vz.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/f/5/photo5wo.jpg/
 
Many thanks

AllanI have just switched off my wireless switch on he front of the laptop, no error message or blue screen up to now, can any one help on this one, I am confusedStill running perfect now I have switched off the wireless switch, any idea from any one on this one, no more blue screen, switched off & on, running great but cannot use the wireless Re-install the WLAN driver from the Toshiba site...or if you have the Driver CD that shipped with the laptop use that...
You will then have to set up the network in Control Panel...helpp......, EVERY time i try a download includung microsoft essentials security, keeps on telling me this site is not TRUSTED, i am USING the ethernet cable at present to the routeri am now working on the wireless, i cannot load the Microsoft essentials security, tells me i do have a genuine validation of windows, the error message is, windows plug in installer says installation failure -  0x80070003Should of said does not have a genuine validation

 am now working on the wireless, i cannot load the Microsoft essentials security, tells me i do have a genuine validation of windows, the error message is, windows plug in installer says installation failure -  0x80070003

Is this my graphics card?  Photos on my computer are always presented perfectly with the photo viewer, but photos on the internet, e.g. Facebook, are often mostly green CROSS hatching.  An example is attached.  Is this the fault of my graphics card or something else?

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]DOUBT it is a graphics card if things are proper from other internal sources. Is this a new phenomenon? If so what have you added/deleted/or changed on your computer that is coincident to this OCCURRING? Have you tried more than one browser?truenorthI would power down...remove all power sources and remove/re-seat the vid card to TEST...also if you have installed newer drivers revert back to the originals that shipped with the card.
Is it overheating ? ?I didn't see a way to reply to the people who tried to help, except to just reply to the post.  The camera-made photos on my hard drive always show perfectly on the screen, but photos on the internet are usually messed up, but some days they are good.  When they are good, they are good all day.  When they are bad, they are all (on the internet) bad, but some are worse than others.  I think it is just some range of colors that are displayed as this bright mossy green, with other colors being displayed properly.  The computer is pretty old (more than ten years) and no changes have been made in a long time.  It just got to where it would do this sometimes and then got to where it would do it most of the time.  I can't understand why it displays my RESIDENT pictures perfectly if it is the graphics card, but I can't think of anything else.  The attached photo was copied from Facebook.  I don't much want to start fixing things until I can learn what is broken.Thats entirely up to you...however my suggestions above would take approx 20 minutes at best...at least you would know if it's a hardware issue...