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Hello All,
I currently have an HP Pavilion dv6-6c35dx (Website) with an AMD A8-3520M APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics and 6GB of RAM. It's a fairly new laptop, I got it in May of this year. Recently I've noticed that some games run slower, and I've been LOOKING to upgrade some PARTS to try to solve this issue. I ran some TESTS and it appears that the limiting factor is my CPU, as it runs consistently at 100% while playing.

My QUESTION is: Is it possible to upgrade my laptop's CPU? And if yes, do you have any recommendations?

HP Tech Support told me that it's not possible, although the Service manual for my laptop gives instructions on how to CHANGE the CPU.

Thanks.
Changing the CPU does not mean upgrading the CPU.  HP Tech Support is correct.

This is probably one of those Buy It and Try It situations, but figured I'd ask before buying to see if anyone had any input on this whether it should work or not.

I tracked down the motherboard my Compaq Presario S6030NX computer use to have: http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?objectID=c00063254#doc for $18

And I thought about putting it back together as the original build with ATHLON XP 2800+ CPU and 1GB RAM, for a project box, but before buying the motherboard I am curious as to if my original recovery set for WINDOWS XP Home would work with this same matching motherboard to the original or if I have to WORRY about something in the Bios Flash etc that will prohibit this? Someone a while back said something about HP/Compaq adding an instruction to the BIOS that had to match that of the original recovery set in order to successfully install. The original board use to show the red COMPAQ Logo and it appears that they used this ASUS motherboard for a bunch of models both the HP Pavilion Line and the Compaq Presario S6000 Line. The $18 motherboard might come up as saying its HP Pavilion vs Compaq Presario.

The original motherboard failed in 2008 with locking up tight and random blue screens after almost 5 years of heavy use. Swapped all hardware, RAM was my first suspect,  and determined it to be the motherboard. Replaced this blown motherboard with a Biostar AM2+ with Athlon x2 4850e 2.5Ghz AM2 CPU and was hoping that keeping with same CPU family, I'd be able to install the recovery set to this system and perform severe driver conversion. BUT the ANTIPIRACY feature of the Recovery Set stated that the hardware does not match and it wouldnt allow further installation. I ended up buying Windows XP Pro and performing a clean build with this new hardware since the XP Home key was useless without matching motherboard. I have since upgraded again 2 years ago to Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz, but my RAM limit of 4GB in that board has me upgrading to a AM3+ ATX motherboard to get 16GB support with my existing AM3 quadcore. So all guts are going to get moved to a full height tower for ATX motherboard and this case will be bare and I was thinking why throw away a minitower case with a good Windows XP Home key. Why not fix this system inexpensively to its original hardware configuration, and have a project box running Windows XP Home SP3.

The Windows XP Pro key is tied to my Windows 7 upgrade, so I dont believe I can run XP Pro by itself since it is legally merged license wise which will move to the full tower ATX project.

Thanks for input on this. This would be the very first repair I have ever done with original motherboard make/model used. Generally by the time a system needs a new motherboard technology advanced and why sink money into old tech when you can get newer non-oem parts for the same cost as original oem. In this case its so devalued in age that for less than $30 I might be able to use my XP Home Key and have this box running as original when I got it xmas 2003   
2 methods::

Before the Fact...

After the Fact...

I've used both many times successfully...Thanks for posting this Patio.. Both methods suggested assume that XP Home is already installed to hard drive. Sorry for not stating that this has to be installed to a blank hard drive.

I have used the Repair Installation method before many times, but you need to have a hard drive with XP Home on it to repair. And the situation I had with this Compaq Restore Set was that upon booting from the first CD, it came right up with a message stating that pretty much there is a Hardware Mismatch and it wouldnt allow installation of any data to hard drive and the original 80GB Hard Drive is long gone to perform repair installation against it, so I will have to install fresh to a 160GB IDE that I have which is a bare drive.

 I know that my restore set is good because I pretty much rebuilt my drive fresh 1 or 2 times a year for 5 years and the clean build restores were successful, and the CD's are like new condition so upon installing a Motherboard that is an exact match, the first CD shouldn't pop up with a hardware mismatch I am hoping, but not certain of if the motherboard I buy came out of say a HP Pavilion vs Compaq Presario. The seller has no prior knowledge of what model it came out of and just has a 90-day guarantee on it.

A while back someone at a computer shop told me something about HP/Compaq Restore Sets verifying hardware somehow, and they stated it may have been something hidden in the BIOS Flash when they added their Logo to the ROM and that an instruction on the restore media seeks verification from the ROM to make sure it matches before allowing installation of the OS.

 I also tried to see if I could locate the i386 DIRECTORY on these 7 spanned Restore CD's that I burned when I first bought the computer. The data is compressed and hidden/protected well on the spanned set that keeps it from installing to different hardware. I figured a while back that maybe I could go this route of manually extracting the i386 folder and perform a manual installation without the bloatware, trialware, and wild tangent junk that came with the original image build.

I am thinking I am going to have to Buy and Try and hope that the boards being exact is good enough. Otherwise as a last alternative I was just thinking, I might be able to locate a ghost image I made in the closet of this system a long time ago in one of the archive boxes of mixed stuff, I have and I know that Ghost Images can be bent to work on different hardware from past experience with a Shoretel VoIP Phone System which was a Dell with the Leaky Caps issue which kept locking up and blue screening. I easily migrated the XP Pro to a HP SFF Desktop which was also originally licensed for XP Pro, so no OS licensing rules broken.

I did have to make a change to unbreak the key on the Shoretel VoIP Server Software which keeps an eye on hardware configuration, but how I did it wont be shared as for I dont share information that can be used for illegal hacks as a White Hat and dont want to get booted from CH    . I also made contact with Shoretel after this disclosing what I did and suggesting better antipiracy protection, as White Hat Ethics promote making things better and more secure and to patch out the Grey and Black Hats from using it illegally. They were fine that we were back up and running since we were legally licensed to run their software on one server, but not happy that I figured out how to bypass it as creatively and yet easily as I did in less than 10 minutes without any code patches or software cracks used. I wouldnt have wanted to be the head software engineer that day that caught word that it was too weak in protection. 

 Being what should be an exact match, the ghost image might not complain if the original recovery set doesnt like this board for some reason.

Im going to give it a try and cross my fingers in hope for success!

How would I know whether the 3v, CMOS battery on the Main Board of my desktop needs to be replaced.

Thank you.Generally you'll notice some symptom(s) such as the system not maintaining the correct TIME or bios settings reverting to "reset". If you think it needs to be replaced, replace it. It's a cheap enough part.Thank you for the help.

Best regards SureWhat happened with the UBUNTU Live test ? ?
Everything check out OK ?I DOWNLOADED ubuntu 12.0.4.1 because it undertakes support for 5 years, whereas the latest version suuports only for 2 years. IMGburn, the installer downloaded but for some reason the installation was not successful. Before trying that again, I tried the Windows Image Burner and Ubuntu image burned to the DVD nicely. This was done on my laptop.

The desktop I am trying to revive, NEEDED much cleaning and I finished only a little while ago. Now it is ready and tomorrow I will switch on and check it with Ubuntu.

I would certainly have informed you of the results, even if you did not ask! So tomorrow I will post the test results here. I will send you a private message as well, if you allow that.

Best regards   

  Quote from: Allan on November 08, 2012, 04:39:25 PM

Sure

I started runnIng out of room on my 320 an got a terra an half of space plus an esata dock.  Partitioned the drive attached to the unit. Thought that is why it couldn't see it. I installed the bracket adapter with little issues. No instructions are with it an is a powered e sata hdd dock from computer geeks. I attached the power an the Sata cable to the board an doesnt see the drive at all. Does the MBoard actually have an eSata slot onboard ?No the bracket that came with it does. Which goes to USB Sata an a power molexSATA ans eSATA are not the same...post a link to this "bracket"...here is the dock  http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=HD-DK320&cat=HDDRequirements::

Product Requirements:
3.5-inch SATA or 2.5-inch SATA hard drive
Available eSATA port
Available REAR expansion slot for Expansion Bracket
Available USB and SATA motherboard internal headers for Expansion Bracket
Available 4-pin Molex power supply connector for Expansion Bracket

Does your MBoard have item # 2...or not ? ?No, the bracket does which, I have it connected tooThe MBoard needs to support/have an eSATA port. Quote from: Allan on October 10, 2012, 07:01:44 AM

Dave - fair warning. If you allow him to, Ryuk will take you on a merry-go-round. He has been BANNED multiple times under different names for doing just what he's doing in this thread - SPINNING your wheels ("I'm having a problem with 'A", but maybe it's because of 'b' or 'c' - oh wait, never mind - I forgot to turn on the computer"). He starts threads and wastes the time of those who reply. It's up to you whether or not you choose to continue to RESPOND to his posts. Personally, I avoid them like the plague.

till know

Product Requirements:
3.5-inch SATA or 2.5-inch SATA hard drive
Available eSATA port
Available rear expansion slot for Expansion Bracket
Available USB and SATA motherboard internal headers for Expansion Bracket
Available 4-pin Molex power supply connector for Expansion Bracket

hi,

i have a printer canon pixma mp250, its not printing ,when i try to print a msg is coming that it has error , contact ur provider.
and with an icon of ink that shows ink is full (its only icon)
but when i open the cover to check the catdrige the ink catdriges are not placing to center, it will not move from the right hand side so i cant replace the inks , only by hand i can move the catdriges to the center then replace them ,but still its not printing.
any solution? even i reinstalled the printer driver,but useless.. is it hardware or software problem?


thnx

Have you printed a lot with this printer? I have heard of a bunch of inkjet printers with internal counters that keep track of how many pages printed and when you hit the magic number the printers brick themselves.

A russian hacker stumbled upon this and was in a movie called "PLANNED Obsolescence". The hacker found a way to reset the inkjet back to 0 and continue to print. When they made contact with the manufacturers as to why they disable the printer after so many prints, their answer was that the catch pan when the print heads are homed off to the side has a piece of sponge like material and it was determined that after so many pages printed this compartment fills with ink and the printer should be disposed of and replaced with a newer model. They claimed they didnt want to be liable for ink overflowing from this waste compartment so they predetermined the life of the printer in page count, and so when the count is REACHED a similar message to that of your error is shown. When you bring this printer to the provider they refer you to a new printer and claim it can not be serviced.

I had an Epson C60 Inkjet that had this counter and I got bit by the error and throwing mine away. It wasn't until years later that a Techie Friend in Canada suggested I watch " Planned Obsolescence" on youtube that I realized mine had the same issue and I could have fixed my Epson with the Russian Hackers Print count reset tool.

Your problem might not be this, but it sure sounds like it could be, so I am sharing it here. I'd look for a counter reset for that model printer and see if that fixes it. Then inspect the waste compartment to see if you have a bunch of ink that is ready to breach the storage compartment and make a mess. Worst I have ever seen with an inkjet was a STALAGMITE of dry ink almost up to the ink cartridges location in the cradle from when the printer PERFORMED all the many print head cleanings throughout its life in which it PURGES (wastes) ink to clean itself.

Heello

I have CNC machines with XP OS. I need to take backup from those machines to the server every 8hrs..

Which server(config) would be good for this plan? And how can it be done?

Guidance/suggestions are most welcome.
Hi

Any server that has a static IP can be used for backup so a nas box or windows server would be ok. You could install an old version of paragon drive backup SAY version 9.0 this  has a SINGLE install file so easy to install onto the cnc machines  hard drives . It also is able to recover a drive using a BOOT floppy. Backups can be scheduled and can be a complete image of the machines hard drive. You may only need to do this once every few months and the rest of the time just backup the WORKING files. If this is the case consider MAPPING a network drive under xp on the cnc machines or writing a batch file to map a network share and use say rsync or roadkils unstoppable copier to copy the data to a folder on the server.
You don't really need a server just a network shared directory or drive.

It would help if you could tell me if the cnc machines drives are accessible from a computer on the network already .

Hope this is of some help

Lisa

Hey Lisa Maree

Few times you already helped me in chat. Thanks again.. I'm so new to this SERVER THING.

1. We are the part supplier.. At present we use to Copy the datas with USB.. Now from the customer end we are advised to use SERVERS  as because they may need the backup at any time..

2. The CNC XP machines are not connected to our network.

3. Aim of Backup : To verify the CNC Programs data (only in MB)..

4. We have more than 30machines but at present we have planned to fix it with 2 CNC machines. In future we may increase(after years)

Thanks in Advance
M

I have a Toshiba Satellite A505-S6014 that is now making and when it does it locks up and won't boot.What ever is causing this is locking up my computer and stopping Windows from loading normally.

I was looking online for help, I came across this video below where this guy shows how to "reset" your laptop to factory specs. But, the noise heard here is the same one that my laptop is making. I was not trying to reset my computer nor did I press the "0" and Pwr key at the same time. I reloaded a piece of software, Microsoft SQL Server 5.x Compact Edition because there seemed to be an issue with it. when this software load completed I started having issues. Some sort of "Toshiba" software popped up across the top of the screen, there were 8 to 10 icons. I had thought it was "Toshiba Assist" or some part of it. Anyway I have tried all basic troubleshooting techniques I can think of including replacing the HD and reloading the factory software. My repair CD's would not work so I dropped the $30 bucks and purchased the "Toshiba Recovery Media for Satellite A500 Series" Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. did this help? NO. When I try to boot some times it work and most of the time it screams and locks up, this frys the OS and then needs to be repaired. when it does boot if I try to type I get lines of "oooooooooooooooooooooooo" that just won't quit. Does the logic board have a actual reset button?

Help from the Net.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5dEOm1EJBw
"Toshiba Satellite Recovery to Factory Settings Tutorial" - "Press down on 0 and power on the laptop" The noise starts at about 0.36 Sec in and stops at 0.54 Secs in. This is the same noise I hear all the time now, it won't stop and locks it up or when it does boot I can't do anything.

There are no keys being held down. I unhooked the keyboard and it still makes the "noise". Which is why I've started looking here for answers, my troubleshooting tree ran out of branches so to speak. The laptop keyboard is disabled at start up it would appear, the only way to do anything is after POST/boot with a USB keyboard but again I try to type I get lines of "oooooooooooooooooooooooo". The track pad seems to work fine. It would seem to have something to do with the keyboard.

I tried getting help from Toshiba and Here's what I was told at "http://forums.toshiba.com"

"I'd suggest you have it serviced"
That noise is made when the computer continually receives keyboard input and it's not ready for it (such as when first booting), or when too many keys are held down at once. Assuming you're not holding down a bunch of keys, it sounds like your laptop may require servicing.

I'm trying to avoid a bill larger then the cost of a new laptop so any help you can provide would be great. ThanksTo test Toshiba's theory attach an external USB keyboard and see if it changes anything. This may be problematic if the fault is now embedded into the start up process of the computer and may not be able to be overrun by the external keyboard. Have you tried using compressed air to blow the dirt out of the interior as something may be interfering with a key on the keyboard? truenorthThanks for the reply.
Been There Done That.
Pulled the Laptop keyboard off and have tried attaching a USB, nothing changes.
Keyboard is VERY clean since i don't eat or anything around my computers.

Any other suggestions?

What did you mean when you said, "if the fault is now embedded into the start up process"??I have posted on a couple of forums to try and find help.

Most think it has something to do with the Keyboard and I sort of agree, But so that you know what else I have tried,

- I tried replacing the Hitachi 500GB HD, did not fix.
- Removed All external devices including the Keyboard, DVD-RW Drive, Battery, Memory and HD. Did not fix.
- Checked the fan and it's working as it should.
- Unplugged the fan. did not fix.
- Unhooked the internal (laptop) keyboard and used USB keyboard. did not fix.
- Reinstalled the OS (Win 7) did not fix.

- Have tried booting from a number of other Boot CD's, like UBCD and some other tools that I own. They also did not make any difference.

None of these helped, the condition still remains. I still think that this is a result of something that I did when pushing Key on the Keyboard somehow. There were no signs of any Logic board/Mother board or HD issues prior to this happening, no crashes, lock-ups, Blue screens... nothing.

Anyone know if the logic board has a hard reset button on it?
If so where is it located?
Thanks again for the suggestions.Yes in your last statement you are dealing with the area of my concern when i stated "embedded" in that whatever was done to cause the error is now part of the computer "memory" for want of a better word and is causing it to not be able top move on. If there is some way without a keyboard to be able to "reset" the computer that might get you back. I presume that by either keyboard trying the safe mode key --usually F8 did not produce safe mode access? Kinda reaching now but have you tried removing the battery and also leaving it unplugged from the adapter for a number of hours to see if anything changes?truenorthGreat input,
Alas I have done both of these. It would not "Safe Boot" don't know how many times I tried but it just would not do it. was finally able to get it to boot to the point i could RUN a Mem test, it kept failing on the 2nd test at 99%. by "fail" I mean it would start screaming at that point and lock up so whatever was happening at that point of the test must have kicked it off. I did eventually get it to finish once or twice but that did not make any difference since it does not seem to have anything to do with the physical memory. I just wanted to see it running again and force it to do something.

As far as computer "Troubleshooting" goes when something happens I go through a number of simple steps first.
 Diagnostics,  Diagnostics,  Diagnostics....
- What did I just do?

Depending on the issue/problem involved I look to certain locations for answers to determine what's wrong and where to start,
listed below are just basic areas i would look to to determine the cause of an issue and start troubleshooting from there.

- I'm a Tech who believes in ESD damage, I've seen it with other techs so I wear a wrist strap and Foot strap to Prevent ESD Damage when I work on any electronics to remove myself from being part of the problem so I can work on a solution.
- Remove any and all Extras, unplug everything that is not the basic system. Unless it's a simple issue.
- Pull the Battery, Power cord and push the power button to drain any power stored in the system.
- Power Supply Failure, replace with backup if possible, swap out power cord, try different outlets etc...
- Video Card and Display - Video Performance/Failure, replace with backup if possible,
- CPU, RAM and Motherboard - Motherboard, CPU and RAM Performance/Failure
- Hard Drive Performance/Failure, replace with backup if possible,
- CD and DVD Recording Problems Performance/Failure, replace with backup if possible,
- Modem  Performance/Failure, replace with backup if possible,
- Sound and Game Controller Performance - Sound Card Run Diagnostics from boot CD/DVD
- Network Troubleshooting, replace with backup IDE card if possible,
- SCSI  Performance/Failure - Yep I still have some very old equipment sitting around. replace 25 to 50 or 50 to 50.
- Peripheral  Performance/Failure
- Conflict Resolution, well this is a really BIG can of worms if it's a system issue that's causing the issue.

All in All I use the "KISS" method ("Keep It Simple Stupid") to troubleshoot my issues. I've had to deal with all kinds of problems in the past, I did 15 yrs of IT Tech support for a large Corp. and had 200+ users. I've seen everything from paper clips under mouse pads to a Hersey's Kiss wrappers inside a laptop between the frame and ground that made it turn on and off if you twisted it just a little. So as you can see this one from my own computer has me stumped.
Please keep the suggestions coming even if I've tried it before it helps me think through the issue.

I'm now going on 4 now so I have exhausted all of my ideas as to what to do. I'll try just about anything at this point.Given your last post it becomes very apparent that failure to solve your current computer issue is not related to a lack of knowledge and experience on your part. I do note that you have removed and replaced the HDD. Have you tried running the computer with no HDD attached? I do realize that will only allow very limited function but i am pondering if the noise will occur under that condition. There are a few extremely knowledgeable members here on the CH forums (certainly of greater competence than I) and given your last post it would be desirable that they come forth now with their input. truenorth2 quick questions...
Are you saying it even does the same ting with a bootable CD/DVD ? ?

Have you tried it with only 1 stik of RAM after blowing out the slots with canned air ? ?Are you saying it even does the same ting with a boot-able CD/DVD ? ?
Have you tried it with only 1 stick of RAM after blowing out the slots with canned air ? ?

Yep, I'm saying just that. as a matter of fact I've had a terrible time getting it to boot from a Boot-able! Once it did, it did not always finish a test or 2 before the noise would start again.
Yep, No Ram, 1 Ram, 2 Ram and now I feels as though I counting sheep.... And I probably have one of the cleanest laptops around now.  With a fan and without makes no difference. - sometimes a BURNT out fan can cause a similar issue.
I blew some large dust bunny's out of the fan area when I pulled it apart on Friday.
Don't remember what happened when I pulled the HD, I think the noise stopped which is why I replaced it but then it came right back after I got the new one installed and the software loaded.
I should have written all of my steps down but this was early on, first one or two days after it happened and that was 4 weeks ago now. I've done so much it's hard to remember it all.

So at this point today.
I'm starting to think that I must have had a true brain fart and done something real stupid and pressed some sort of key combo that your not suppose to. i got a lot of responses that it was a keyboard issue. also that that "Noise" was the noise a computer makes when a (any) key is pressed for too long. Well, in this case when I've been able to get it working if I select a file to say, rename all I get is a line of un-ending "Zero's or O's" I think their Zeros. I have also tested this "keyboard noise" theory on 3 other computers, 2 desktop (Win XP Pro, Win 7 Home) and 1 laptop (Macintosh) none of which came even close to the NAME noise that My laptop is making or the ones in the video's.
Help from the Net.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5dEOm1EJBw
"Toshiba Satellite Recovery to Factory Settings Tutorial" - "Press down on 0 and power on the laptop" The noise starts at about 0.36 Sec in and stops at 0.54 Secs in. This is the same noise I hear all the time now, it won't stop and locks it up or when it does boot I can't do anything.

So, I have now taken it apart and it just sitting on my Anti-Static mat with all of the pieces in Anti-Static bags. Thought I'd give it some time to "de-juice", But I really wanted to pull the backup battery off the Motherboard and let it de-juice but the little sucker is soldiered on! the tack points are real fine and I am real poor at soldiering so here we all sit while I think about it.
any ideas as to how to get the stupid thing off? Below is a JPEG that shows the Battery and location of the 4 soldier points. These are the only thing holding it on, other wise I can just pick it up in the front.
The idea was to remove the battery and allow any power to drain out of the Mother Board itself and "hopefully" that might fix this issue. i don't really believe that the board itself is bad just stuck in a loop of some sort.

Anybody else have an idea?? other than replacing the board that is.
on that note I have found a couple of them on eBay. Anyone ever delt with "Laptop-Masters"?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-Satellite-A505-Intel-Motherboard-V000198150-/250857956432?pt=Motherboards&hash=item3a684ca450
Thanks for the PATIENCE and help everybody! it is much appreciated!!

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Well normally the battery itself is a very inexpensive item. However with your stated attributes re the soldering i like you would not attempt that replacement on my own. So it comes down to taking the computer to an experienced technician that can do that for you or purchasing a replacement MB. Again however while the logic of doing so it is not certain at this point that it will actually solve the problem. It may also be true that replacing the MB will not solve the problem either. I would  weigh relevant comparisons of cost at this stage realizing that either route may not solve the issue and proceed. Personally i would lean toward having someone i trust replace the battery.Removing a laptop MB i suspect has the potential for additional problems beyond the battery replacement.truenorthBoom, you hit the nail on the head. I would consider myself to be amongst the worlds worst soldiers. I really suck at it no matter how hard I try it just doesn't work for me. I've watched videos, had others show me how-to. just won't work, bag it I'll use hot glue or tape.

I've been struggling with this for almost 4 weeks now. I think it's time to move on.

So my local computer support will charge me $79.00 to Diagnose the issue, Then more to fix. This issue is a strange one and will be fixed with a new Mother board so I figure that's where they go first. They will probably purchase a replacement board from Toshiba for $354.00 ish and then up charge me for putting it in.

Toshiba wants $119 for diagnosis, then $229.00 for "Minor repair" i.e. replacement of touchpad, keyboard, CD/DVD or RAM. $354.00 for "Major repair" i.e. replacement of the LCD or Mother board. Nonrefundable of $30.00 for Shipping fee. (See ToshibaRepairServices.com)

http://www.compuvest.com/Desc.jsp?iid=1693442
Toshiba A505 Laptop Motherboard V000198150 - NEW, not used or Refurbished.
Origional Price: $147.08, Promotional Price $137.73 you save 5% - I signed up for their Drop Price Alerts and got 5% off.

So,why these guys?  --  Warranty: 180 Days!

Most offer a "warranty" or return of 14 to 30 days, these guys offer 180 Days! you can't beat that. that's enough time to get it in place and make sure it really works.

So, I waiting for a call back from them now. They also have some good deals on memory and a 180 day warranty as well.Looks like you are COMMITTED to a MB purchase. A suggestion i can give you in that area as you have appropriately considered your choice to include degree of warranty is= i have a master card card that when used on a purchase adds significantly to the warranty period. As an example if i use the card to purchase an item that has a one year warranty the master-card doubles the period to 2 years. It also applies to longer and shorter warranty periods and not only does it cover a product ceasing to function but also includes loss or theft which normal store/mfg warranties do NOT. You needn't carry the item on the card any longer than the actual transaction ie buy it on the card/get the master-card receipt along with the store receipt/immediately pay off the full price of the charge/warranty provisions are now valid. Have used the process a number of times never had a hassle. N.B. the extended portion of the  warranty is with master-card not the store/mfg. I believe Visa has a similar plan. My master=card is not a fee based card . Keep us informed how the MB replacement works out.
P.S. I have been losing much sleep  trying to think of a way that you could exhaust all the energy of the battery without removing it. Then when the computer would be reenergized from battery or adapter it should be able to be recharged. truenorthAre you sure it's just not the cooling fan bearings?Well, it came down to pure econimics. Keep working to try and figure out why or have someone else repair it. Not that I'm doughting another techs abilities because I'm not, it's more of "How much is this going to cost me"?

Toshiba (out of warranty);
"Nonrefundable Diagnostic" Fee $119.00 and $30.00 shipping/Handling fee.
"Minor Repair" $229.00 This includes replacing the touchpad, keyboard, CD/DVD, or Memory (Ram)
"Major Repair" $354.00 This includes repair or replacement of the LCD or Motherboard.
for me the total would be $503.00 Plus tax if they charge it.


Local Tech Support;
Diagnostic fee of $89.00
$354.00 for a Logic Board (motherboard) With issues like this were they are really hard to figure out, "normally" a business won't want to waste a techs time to "figure out" whats really wrong they will just replace the part,it's faster and cheaper in the long run for them and the customer.
Plus tax (9%)
Total $487.30 (ish)

So in the end I guess it was kinda a no brainer after almost 5 weeks of screwing around with this and adding up the costs and when I hit the battery soldered down issue it became clear that I was not going to fix this myself.

Online;
I looked at a lot of ads and web pages, made a lot of calls, asked a lot of anoing questions that sales staff could not answer because they don't know the products they sell or just don't care.
Finally I ran into a lady who cared about and knew her products, turns out she was a sales manager. She actuall got up out of her chair and went and checked a box for me.
I was able to purchase the excact same board I had! (HannStar J MV-4) All because someone cared enough to check for me she made a sale.
Compuvest Corp  (http://www.compuvest.com/)
Paid $150.52 including Shipping/Handling comes with a 180 day warranty.
The best price I found was eBay $115.00 plus $20 for S&H or $135.00.

All in All and interesting experience that I'd rather not repeat, but I did learn a few things through it.

Thanks for your suggestions and support
jonathan.Yes very interesting but what will be MORE interesting is does it solve the problem? Please come back and tell us the answer to that one when you finish the replacement.Good luck,truenorth

At work last night a SERVER died with no display output. Rebooted it and found out it wasn't posting. Checked Power Supply Voltages and all looked good. I then removed all RAM sticks which were 512MB 333Mhz DDR ECC RAM, and installed 1 stick. Booted up server and it booted with 512MB RAM. I then held power button in and it shutdown. I then installed 2nd stick ( same channel ) Black Plastic Bank and booted it up with 1024MB. So once again I held power button in and shut it down. Added 3rd stick and it then booted successfully with 1536MB RAM. Helf power button in and shut it down. And then added 4th stick and tried to boot it up and black screen no post.

So I then said well maybe its the stick. I grabbed the stick out of slot 3 which is the Blue Plastic slot for dual channel paired identification and place dthe 4th stick into slot 3 and then booted it up and it booted with 1536MB RAM.

So OK... maybe there is something wrong with slot 4. Looked it over with flashlight and blew it out with canned air. Nothing looked wrong. I then thought to myself, well I have a spare server just like this one I will grab the entire RAM set out of that and place that into this server.

Opened pannel and ejected Ram carefully, and noticed that the Ram in this other server was 400Mhz DDR ECC 512MB sticks and not 333Mhz like the others. Figured that the 3.2Ghz Dual Xeons would probably run better on 400Mhz vs 333 Mhz anyways if it does work, so I populated the 4 slots 2 in the black plastic banks and 2 in neighboring blue plastic banks and booted it up. System came up fine. Ran Memtest86 on it for 2 hrs and no errors.

Just out of curiosity I placed the 4 sticks into the other server and booted that up. That server came up fine on the Ram that that this original server rejected with no post. Ejected the Ram out of both and put both servers Ram back into original 4U chassis they came from. Spare box booted fine with its original Ram. Troubled box once again did not post with black screen.

Just out of curiosity, I had 2 spare sticks of 512MB 400Mhz DDR ECC Ram from another server that got butchered for parts when the caps leaked on it. I placed these faster 512MB 400Mhz FSB ECC Ram sticks into slot 2 and 3 with the 512MB 333Mhz FSB ECC Ram into slots 0 and 1, and booted up the troubled server. The server posted. (INTERESTING) 

Booted up the server off of my Knoppix CD and performed Memtest86. Passed 2 complete TESTS without issues, but Memtest86 thinks that the dual Xeon system is a Pentium 4. Also the memtest86 is stating that the servers MEMORY is running at 400Mhz FSB, where i expected it to downclock the faster Ram to that of the slower Ram.

Shutdown server. Swapped the 2 pairs between banks so that slots 0 and 1 were now stuffed with 400Mhz FSB Ram and the slots 2 and 3 were not stuffed with 333Mhz FSB Ram. Booted server and black screen. Ok.... so lets remove a 333Mhz stick from slot 3 ( the 4th slot ). System booted fine at 1536MB.     Now this is getting strange!

I have NEVER seen such oddness with Ram to where a slot is picky and wants the Faster Ram or NO Ram..LOL   ... The only thing I can think of is memory controller, but if memory controller was acting up then I would expect it to be a situation in which it would have an issue with speed being too fast, not too slow 

Anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?

Sure I can stuff it with faster RAM and put it back into operation after proper bench testing  with SuperPI etc and Memtest86 etc, but not understanding why this oddity is happening ... I had to share it with you all and get your input on it.

Also to verify that I am not missing a post beep code, I removed all Ram and booted server and it came up with the proper RAM POST Error Beeps, so i know its not as if the server is missing a internal speaker and not giving beep codes when its blacked out without post.

Is there some utility i should run on this server other than SuperPI and Memtest86 to stress it and test it for errors with the mismatched set?

Wish I had one of those PCI Post Cards to stuff into a slot and see at exactly what point the post is hanging. I think that might be the only way to know where its getting hung. But that still wouldnt answer why faster Ram works and slower doesnt in the 4th slot which is slot 3.

History of this server is that it was running for about 3 years without issues crunching data related to mailing address recognition from an OCR system. This was one of 12 nodes that crunch addresses so that between the time that mail is cancelled and address lifted by OCR on AFCS Machine, there are results for the sorting DBCS automated machinery to place the mail on the correct route. This system is important for change of addresses among other reasons so that mail goes where it belongs every day around the world. We found it dead today when it wasn't on the network. Its powered through a huge UPS system with banks of lead acid batteries at the USPS that I work at, so power is clean to all equipment. The other guys in the shop handed it off to me because I have a degree in this stuff, 25+ years experience with computer electronics, and am good at getting dead servers back up and running. Generally they fail and get shipped out to be serviced at a repair facility, but I take pride in fixing this stuff myself down to the component level when time permits on top of other duties to keep the mail flowing on time to everyones mailboxes. 

PATIO helped me on a different subject, and I believe

Quote

All i know is there have been volumes WRITTEN on how picky Xeon servers are about RAM and it's configurations...Intel has a bunch of info on it.

...I tried running the Recuva Deep Scan and it cannot read anything due to the message: Unable to read boot sector...

Most of the time, free software will not help or solve your problem such as Data Recovery for your USB Flashdrive...

hi,

ONE of my friends faced a problem in his LAPTOP, he BROUGHT it to me to check it up , when i STARTED windows (once i POWERED on) it was saying no bootable hard drive found , internal hard nato found ,try to reseat the hard again, i ran diagnosis and tested laptop it was saying internal hard disk not detected.
i switched off laptop and removed battery, then i removed hard disk , i reseated again ,but not fixed still same trouble.

any idea?

thanxHard Drive sounds like its bad. Do you have a spare hard drive that you can place into the laptop to see if it detects a healthy hard drive?

my psx emulator has crappy sound - do I need a better sound card?
And if so what KIND should I buy?Is it all games or just certain games? From what I have heard about others using the Play Station Emulator is that some games have issues with it like crashes, CONTROL issues, and sound while others work fine. If you have 2 computers you can try this out on both and try to rule out sound card issue.I have yet to find a PSX emulator that fully works without kinks, especially when it comes to sound emulation and video playback (video as in the video intros and cutscenes some games have).

Without knowing what emulator you're using, it's hard to say though. All I COULD suggest is trying different emulators and find one that works WELL for you and the games you play. There's a number of different emulators out there, so give them all a try.

Hello, I have a problem with a new graphic card i bought today, I will try to explain it clearly but if you need clarification just ask for it.
I have a GA-73PVM-S2H motherboard, and the operating system is windows 7 64bit, 550W PSU.
So i get the new video card HD7750 DDR3 2GB, I disconnect my computer from electricity, I take out my old 9400GT and replace it, then when I turn on my computer i see no signal, i connect my vga cable to the onboard instead and see the bios loading normally.
Things I tried:
*Taking the card out and putting it in again.
*Installing the drivers from the disc, then uninstalling them and installing from online. *The gpu DID work on my other computer.
*I set the motherboard to only activate onboard when there is no gpu, and I put PEG(PCIE) on first priority for video (both in bios).
*I tried my old video card and it worked just fine.
I FOUND that thread online: http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,6608.0.html
There is a LINK there for a bios update that might be able to fix it although i'm not 100% sure it's the same problem. I downloaded it but it's a zip file and inside it a ".f9f" file that I didn't know how to activate.
So thanks for anyone trying to help!
I have seen this a couple times myself with some motherboards that allow for dual video out via onboard integrated as well as the adapter. Have you connected via onboard video and then install drivers from CD that came with video card, and then chose the videocard to be the primary adapter vs onboard in display properties?

I ran into a similar issue with my ASUS motherboard and upgrade from GeForce 8400GS PCIe to ATI Radeon 5450HD PCIe video card. I was able to connect via onboard display and then install driver that came on CD and then chose the ATI Radeon 5450HD as the primary which enabled it from its black screen STATE and the video then went black on the onboard with no sync. Moved video cable over to the ATI Radeon 5450HD and was good to go.

It was strange that the Nvidia GeForce video card took primary display disabling onboard, but that the ATI Radeon didnt do this and had to be manually configured to be the primary video output. But it worked for me.Not to insult your INTELLIGENCE or anything, because some people forget or don't realize they need to do this:

But did you connect the power to the new video card?

Most 9400GTs didn't require external power. However, it seems some versions of the 7750 do.

To see if your PARTICULAR model does, look for the power port on the end of the card. (See attachment to this post.)

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]

For some strange reason my external HARD drive is now being asked to be formatted even though it has been working fine.
It is a WD My Book Essential 2TB.
Any ideas how to get AROUND this?
when I used Disk manager it says it is unallocated.
ThanksIf no important data is on it, you can format it. BUT if you have any important data on it that you dont want lost then you will have to use a data recovery tool like GetDataBack NTFS for example.The fact that disk management reports it as unallocated means it cannot FIND a format structure on the drive. The drive, the mbr, or the formatting may be corrupt - or the drive may be dying. Regardless, Dave's advice is right on target - do what you need to do to try to access and save any important data - then try to REFORMAT (you can also try the drive on a different system first just to make sure it isn't a problem with the one SPECIFIC computer, though it probably isn't).

how to create BACK UP to your PC after formatting.
thanks a lots!  Hi adu03,

I use Macrium Reflect Free. It saves an image of your hard drive to a file. Then you simply back up the image to an external hard drive, or network location. After formatting copy the image file back to you computer. Re-install Macrium Reflect and use it to open the image, then you can copy any files you need onto your fresh install of windows. You can download it here if you want to try it: http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx

MikeTo expand on the above post, here's something I put together a while ago:


Disk Imaging software takes a "snapshot" of your drive as it exists at the time you create the image. You can then restore the entire image or any file(s) or folder(s) you choose. It is a virtually foolproof way of backing up your system and providing a safe haven in the EVENT of a catastrophe that requires you to blow away your system partition and restore it to a previous state. It also ALLOWS you to "test" various software and be confident that you have a the ability to RETURN to the PRIOR state any time you choose.

 
I use Acronis True Image. It is the best of breed, but it isn't free. The best free alternative is Macrium Reflect.


1) I create an image of my system partition once a week to a second hard drive and keep the 2 or 3 most recent images. I also image my other partitions about once a month. I always enable "verify image" in the options. It takes a little longer, but insures a VALID image.

2) I also create an image before performing any drive level function (ie, changing the size of a partition) or making any significant change to the OS (installing a service pack, upgrading IE, etc). Also sometimes before installing new software.

3) Images may be created on any medium (cd, dvd, external drive, etc). For obvious reasons they should not be stored on the same drive you are imaging. The best option is a second internal hd if you have one.

4) Images may be created "in the background" within the OS. If you need to restore the system partition, that will need to be done before the OS loads. You can start the process within the application in the OS and it will then tell you it needs to reboot to finish the process. Alternatively, you can boot to a "recovery disk" which you can create when you first install the software (or to the application disk itself if you have one). Other partitions can be restored without a reboot.

Windows XP. Ever since I used the microphone to record, I've EXPERIENCED sound quality problems. Tried new speakers, re-installed windows media player, no improvement. Checked all volume settings etc.

Puzzling is the fact that playing music, I can hear the melody, but the vocal part is muffled.  I tested the sound with the Realtek music manager and the sound is OK.

Any suggestions? Reinstall sound CARD driver.ok this sometimes happens when one of the audio lines isn't contacting right...could be something as simple as making sure the speakers plug is all the way in

KurtisThanks for your help.  I will re-install the sound card driver, as speakers are connected correctly.  I have Belarc Advisor, it indicates Realtek Audio, I assume this is the driver, if not, how do I locate it? What EXACTLY does Belarc say about your sound adapter?Actually Belarc doesn't list Realtek as a sound card, it's listed under Multimedia,
Realtek High Def. Audio.  It doesn't list anything under "sound card", that's why I'm not sure where to look for this.DLoad and try Everest Home instead...
Save a report as a text file and Post the Computer Summary portion here.Your driver is here: http://www.realtek.com.tw/Downloads/downloadsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=14&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=falseIf that driver don't work try--->ftp://152.104.238.19/pc/audio/WDM_R182.exe

Major Geeks is also always dependable.http://www.majorgeeks.com/_Realtek_High_Definition_Audio_d4902.htmlHere's the lengthy report as requested.  Just an update, I re-installed Windows Media Player, the sound is STILL scratchy, and  the playback SPEED is too fast and it sounds like they're singing inside an echo chamber.

[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]Did you reinstall driver?Downloading the driver now, I didn't notice your reply.  Will advise.  Thanks again for
all your help.New driver was all I needed.  Thank you so MUCH.  Did I screw things up when I played around with the microphone, as that's when the sound problem started?     I had the same problem. It was a simple fix. I found that the Realtec program had the Karaoke program checked or turned on. Check this and turn it off and every thing should return to normal. Quote

Did I screw things up when I played around with the microphone

I have an onboard video card  G33/G31 EXPRESS Chipset Family and a Dual-Core Celeron(R) CPU E3300 2.50 GHz with 2Gb RAM.

I want watch high quality VIDEOS and to PLAY some games.

Thanks!What MBoard do you have ? ?

on windows 8 pro 32-bit, i saw that the screen resolution somehow got lower (less than what i had configured before)

vga card is nvidia gt440

so i max it out and apply (should've wait a bit, big mistake) and got "input not supported" on blank/black screen

tried hard shutdown and during startup, it can view windows LOGO for a bit then the blank screen again.

so i tried pulling out the vga card and use the built-in vga and it totally won't work with 1 long beep, 8 short beep which means vga failure for AMI BIOS, hence the above (title's) questionUsually if you lost your display as a result of exceeding the displays limits with video card going BEYOND what the display can render you can boot to safe mode and correct if your not given the display change with count down to accept the higher resolution, in which if not accepted it reverts back to previous setting.

BUT... If you have an Integrated GPU issue, thats not a good thing. I have only seen it once where an integrated GPU died, and it didnt just die right off, it STARTED to cause the system to crash with blue screens randomly, frame rate would start to lag and system would lock up. And finally the system would no longer boot. Upon boot no post, just a black screen was its final death.

I thought my friend had a power supply dying so I leant a good one, that didnt fix it. He then gave it to me and I found that he fried his integrated GPU playing World of Warcraft PvP on his Athlon II x4 620 ( 2.6Ghz ) HP Tower that a BestBuy kid sold his wife as a gaming rig for her husband as a christmas gift. Had he installed a PCIe video card, and if the power supply had enough watts to support a video card upgrade, his system would probably still be alive.

Integrated GPU's aren't good for games in most systems, and they will roast to try to keep up with the demands, usually cooking themselves to the point of failure if the lag DOESNT get to you first to upgrade to a better GPU.

I'd put the video card back in which will bypass the bad integrated GPU and get into safe mode and then save lower resolution setting, then logon normal, and keep a note to self that the integrated GPU is bad and a new motherboard may be needed down the road if the integrated GPU degrades and holds an address line hostage with a constant high signal etc.thanks for the reply
and i just couldn't get to recovery mode mashing F8 constantly. Beats me why would it not workFor Windows 8, it was changed to Shift+F8

http://www.howtogeek.com/107511/how-to-boot-into-safe-mode-on-windows-8-the-easy-way/thanks, when i back from work, tried to reseat the vga card & it boots normally on second reboot. Quote from: malayo on November 18, 2012, 06:51:57 PM

thanks, when i back from work, tried to reseat the vga card & it boots normally on second reboot.

I'm buying a new computer because my old one is slowly dieing.  I've already picked out a good computer and a good video card.  I've already checked out and done a fair amount of research into the computer, what people reccomend as far as HARDWARE, and what BRANDS to check for.

What my problem is, however, is powering the video card.  The certain card I picked out has an additional 6-pin POWER cable that needs(maybe?) to be PLUGGED in.  I'm wondering if I can actually do such a thing in the computer I chose and if it is possible to do so, how to go about doing it. 

Links to store pages with card and Computer:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130827 - video card

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883256198 - computer

All replys are appreciated and will be useful.  Thank you.Since it's not listed in the Specs i WOULD contact newegg and ask what PSU that PC ships with and does it have a 6-pin GPU plug...

Uh-oh, my brand new WD internal harddrive is making some high pitch NOISES, sort of a cross between a SQUEAL and scratch. Should I make a back-up image now and get a repalcement drive post haste? IOW, if it is making a WIERD NOISE at just a month or so old with very little use, is it destined for a very PREMATURE crash? Thanks.I wouldn't waste any time in getting a backup made.  You should try to keep those current anyway.
Yeah, I'd make them replace the drive too, that's what warranties are for.You can at first back up your things with DVd or whatever you use.Or else go for the warranty.

Hello all.. thanks for replying for my ISSUE.

Recently bought a EpsonR1900 as new. From the day 1, its showing unknown error at Epson Monitor 3. Stating remove any jammed paper or so from the printer and restart the printer...! but the machine haven't loaded any kind of media. Its killing my time and losing hope.

I was trying with a WIN8 64bit version the printer not detected..! next, windows 7 64bit, same error. no remedy. Down to windows xp spIII, 64bit.. still its not blessed with print. Does any of you have the same issue with this printer??

Tried all ports, the usb ports are working fine.. What may be the issue then?

Know its a good machine if its in motion..!!!

Please support.What OS are you actually running ? ?If INDEED this is a brand new printer purchased from legitimate vendor then i would suggest that you use your free tech support option with Epson to have them assist you with your issue. Either something was not set up properly with the installation of the printer or the printer you have is faulty.If during your dialogue with Epson it turns out to be the latter they will be immediately aware of that and will guide you towards a replacement.truenorth
P.S. Do it by phone e-mails will take forever and be very FRUSTRATING.

Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 3000 Model 1359

I been useing this mouse with my laptop an two of my desktop pc's.  The thing was WORKING for a while up till about the past week or so.  When I connect it, it see's the mouse but, I cant move the cursor.  How EVER when I reset the reciever Im able to move it there for a whileReplace the batteries...in the mouse and reciever if it takes them.I tried that.  I'll try another an see SAID it was goodUsed a non rechargeable an still the same thing happens. Says its good an know good tooIt's possible there is interference from other nearby devices.

If you have a wifi router, change the channel your wifi is using to something +/- 4 from the current settings.

If you have a cordless phone, make sure the phone and the base are both away from the computer/receiver.Unfortunately there is. However that's never been an issue before Quote from: Ryuk on November 01, 2012, 04:46:16 AM

Unfortunately there is. However that's never been an issue before

Unfortunately there is. However that's never been an issue before

Never trust a mouse for accurate readings...they are related to Rats.

Hi everyone. I recently re-installed XP SP3 on my old computer and after a few hours of use I touched my external WD Elements and noticed it was running even though I wasn't using any files on it. I only use this drive to STORE my music and other media. On the previous Windows installation it would spin down whenever nothing was being read from it. This is what shows up when I use Unlocker to see which programs are using it:
 
It seems like some Windows service is using it, but I have no idea which one. What should I do?You can SAFELY turn off indexing on that drive by right clicking it selecting Properties and unchecking it in the 1st or 2nd Pane...
Did you happen to install the Elements software for it ? ?
I'm not a big fan of it... Quote from: patio on November 20, 2012, 12:44:48 PM

You can safely turn off indexing on that drive by right clicking it selecting Properties and unchecking it in the 1st or 2nd Pane...
Did you happen to install the Elements software for it ? ?
I'm not a big fan of it...

Turn off System Restore for the external drive.

Problem: computer won't turn on when pressing the POWER ON button in the front of chassis.

the color green light blinks continuously when i press the POWER ON button, with the interval of 2 seconds, there are no sounds coming from mobo, and the fans are not WORKING also.

processor:   intel core 2 duo e6850
ram:   4gb ddr2
hard disk:   300gb + 500gb western digital
mobo:   intel dq35mp
power supply:   http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=36

screenshots:
http://s19.postimage.org/4qp9t4b41/yy3333_1.jpg

http://s19.postimage.org/uarjzjwhv/yy3333_2.jpg

http://s19.postimage.org/qsfk35vlv/yy3333_3.jpgSwap the power supply with one of equal or greater wattage and see if that fixes it.my problem is i dont have spare power supply

i think i need to bring this to a technician.
Plz try these on system not start.
1.st clean u r computer with help of air blower.or somthing air pump(usin FILLING bycycles tyre air)

2.Clean Ram slot and clean ram module tracks with erasser (pencil eraser)

3.reconnect all connectors.

Hope this will help you.If u not plz tell me
NVM, the technician tested the power supply on ANOTHER computer, and its still not working..

i just bought a new power supply, now my computer is running.

not bad for a 5 year old power supply. (warranty is only 3 years)

tnx everyone!Thought that's what sounded like was wrong. Glad you're up and running again.

I was about to purchase a new Hard Drive for my desktop (second hand), when I was told that there could be compatibility issues. My Main Board is an Asus P5LD2 with SATA connection. It has been checked with Ubuntu Live Test and is working fine. I have chosen the Hard Disk WD5000AAKX, from the Future Shop. Here is the link:-

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/wd-wd-500gb-internal-hard-drive-wd5000aakx-blue-wd5000aakx/10198135.aspx?path=d9009c1c83847c69e277302c910dc0b7en02

This has the SATA connection. Except for that, I have no idea what else has to be checked before I purchase. Can you please help?That drive will work fine...who mentioned compatibility issues ? ?

Stay away from the GREEN Series WD HDD's...all others including Caviar's are fine.

PS because it's 2nd hand make sure to delete any existing partitions and re-create what you want and then run a full format before using...Good to hear from you again. It was the previous owner who told me that I have to check the compatibility with the chipset etc! With inadequate knowledge, how easily can one be misled.

"PS because it's 2nd hand make sure to delete any existing partitions and re-create what you want and then run a full format before using..."
[/quote]

I will GO ahead and order this one but I need help to do the above - delete partitions.........recreate..........fu ll format...

Thank you for the quick reply!How much is it BTW if you dont mind me asking? ?
Reason being is Brand new is only 60 Bucks...is this from eBay ? ?It is 64.99 and is from the Future Shop (Canada). The link I posted above in the first posting, will get you there. Full details can be seen including a picture of it, on that Future Shop web page.

Thank youI personally WOULD buy new...
NEWEGG is now in Canada...check out their pricing.I will check NewEgg. Just for information, the ones in Future Shop are all new including the one I have in mind. They don't sell used thing. I checked NewEgg. They have the identical HDD - WD5000AAKX.  With postage, it will cost me $ 8.00 more than Future Shop. Further, 'return' will be easy because there is a Future Shop near me in Ottawa. I can take it there in case of any problems.

Anything better you can suggest?I'd say the $8.00 is worth it then...Thank you. Most likely, I will need your help when it arrives!

Best regards.patio, "I personally would buy new..."  i think you are unaware that as the O/P is advising Future Shop is a retail outlet in Canada (similar to Best Buy) and they ONLY sell new products. I'm not certain but i think they also do or did exists in the States. The O/P might want to check out the Tiger Direct (Canada)  online site as they might offer the product cheaper. However if the option exists to order it from the Tiger Direct online U.S. site it will be substantially cheaper i feel certain. However if shipped to Canada that might offset the savings unless the O/P has the ability to have it shipped to a U.S. location.truenorthWith all due RESPECT truenorth...i was only going on the fact he stated that it was a second hand HDD...which is exactly why i questioned the purchase in the 1st place...
See above.  While we all so far have the English language as our common tongue isn't it interesting how the same words can be read differently. When i read the 1st post " a new Hard Drive for my desktop (second hand)," i understood the computer not the intended HDD acquisition to be "second hand".truenorthYes ...i can see now how that would happen in this case...I received the Hard Disk - SATA - WD5000AAXX - Caviar Blue. It is brand new in the manufacturer's pakage. On the package is the following message. "Advanced format drives require additional installation steps. Please check your drive label to determine if your drive has the advanced format feature and follow the instructions there for installation" On the Hard Drive Label itself, there is nothing to say whether it is 'advanced format' or 'instructions for installation', as mentioned in the above message.

I expect to install Windows XP and possibly Ubuntu as well. The Main Board is ASUS P5LD2.

What should I do?

Thank you.

Could  SOMEONE give any advice?  My Sony VAIO Laptop has suddenly started emitting a loud buzzing sound when switched on.  When mute is pressed it stop, but icons on deskrtop and in system tray are shuddering, so cannot use it.  It is running VISTA and I have recovered it with system disks, but problem still persists.Any disc in the OPTICAL drive? Do you hear the normal windows sounds when starting the computer?truenorth

ASUS P8Z77-V LX motherboard running WINDOWS 7 (64 bit) reports chasis fan overheating 2600 rpm the fan works fine,and computer runs all day (for several months now) all temperatures seem to be O.K. not sure if if this is dangerous or not or have I plugged the chasis fan (2) into the wrong connector or is there a WAY to monitor or control this fan ? Can supply more info if required What app is reporting it over-heating ? ? You can DLoad and install SpeedFan for more readings...
Also i believe on that MBoard the BIOS also reports case/board temps...
Not sure which application is reporting overheating it just comes up with a red square in the bottom right hand corner of screen reporting fan overheating 2600 rpm. I went into BIOS and turned all the fan monitoring to ignore - no changeWhat did SpeedFan report ? ?Reports that one of the hard drives is running hot (128 deg) system fan 1158 rpm 23 deg,  CPU fan 2027 rpm 25 deg aux fan 634 rpm GPU 25 deg, is this correct as 2000 rpm seems too high but no chip temps seem to be overheatingIs that HDD excessively hot to the touch ? ?yep stinking its only a spare ssd that I use as a scratch disk for photoshop ...will DISCONNECT but still worried about the temps and revsThe other Temps you reportwe at 25c are actually well WITHIN range for the CPU/GPU...

Dear Experts,

I dropped my gamepad and the left bumper stopped working. So I took it apart and the bottom part (with the joysticks) had two buttons in the front. The left one was very loose and wouldn't come BACK out when I pushed it in. The black part behind it was bent backwards. When I pushed it forward, nothing happened, it remained loose. Please help. LOVE this gamepad.  You have obviously determined that the devoice does not take well to the impact of a fall. Your issue will only be resolved by having the damaged part repaired.Whether this is a feasible course of action will be determined by costing out the repair versus replacing the entire unit. How much further DAMAGE you may cause by attempting to fix it yourself remains to be SEEN but it is certainly a possibility.truenorthJust about the only thing you can do is get a new controller.

I can tell you now that Logitech does not provide replacement parts to anyone. They'll direct you to eBay or some other place to buy another damaged product and do the repairs yourself. (I know this from experience.)Actually I have dropped my gamepad a few times before but all that REALLY happened was a stuck trigger which  I fixed myself.You were lucky then but not this time.truenorth

bought a used monitor samsung model # 932bw hooked monitor up COMES on for two seconds then shuts off goes black is this monitor bad or is there a easy fix please help thank youWhen it comes on do you see your desktop? Or a box moving around the screen SAYING something like "No Signal".i see the desktop for just 2 seconds then it shuts off, goes black
Try it on another computer - and when it goes off does the power light on the monitor change color, REMAIN the same, or go off completely?thanks for answering    power button stays lit, stays the same Quote

thanks for answering    power button stays lit, stays the same

bought a used monitor samsung model # 932bw hooked monitor up comes on for two seconds then shuts off goes black is this monitor bad or is there a easy fix please help thank you

Hey all!  I wasn't sure where to post this problem, as it involves both hardware and possibly software PROBLEMS, in the end I went with Hardware so apologies if I made the wrong call!

I have an Acer Aspire 7741G running WINDOWS 7 with SP1, it has an intel Core i5 cpu, with a 750GB hard drive, and 4GB RAM, the graphics card is  an AMD Radeon HD 6550M.  The DVD/CD-ROM is an HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GT32N.

I decided to reinstall Windows yesterday, just to clean up my machine, and used the Acer Erecovery Management tool to do a full reinstall.  Everything seemed to go well (I had the 2 bars showing progress of the install, etc....), then the computer restarted and immediately gave me the dreaded BSoD with the error STOP c000021a (I think it was this).  I tried to restart Windows normally, numerous times and it either shutdown, or showed a BSoD and then shutdown.  When I tried to run in Safe Mode I got the same BSoD.  I eventually managed to restart Windows by choosing the 'Start Windows with Networking' option or something LIKE this.

As soon as Windows had restarted, I decided I should burn a copy of this clean install, just to be on the safe side (something I should have done when I first got the computer, but never got around to!).  This is when I realised the the DVD/CD-ROM was no longer working.  The drive is visible in My Computer and the Device Manager says that it is working correctly, but it will not read any disks.  I have tried music disks that I burnt myself and shop bought music disks and dvds and nothing works.  The green light flashes a few times and it makes a whirring noise as though it is about to read the disk, but then it just stops.  When I double click the DVD/CD-ROM drive in My Computer it ejects the tray and asks me to insert a disk.

Up until this point I have had no problems whatsoever with this computer and the DVD/CD-ROM was working before I reinstalled Windows!

I have tried updating the driver, but get the message saying that I have the correct driver installed already and I have tried uninstalling the device then restarting the computer.  I also tried deleting the Upper Filters and Lower Filters in the Registry, as suggested elsewhere.  I thought that maybe the current driver could be corrupt and have tried searching for another copy, but have had no luck!  I have also just checked the hard drive and memory for problems because of the BSoD, and both checked out fine.

All of my problems have occurred since using the Erecovery program, which I don't understand as this is supposed to restore the computer to the nice clean factory defaults that I had when I first got the computer, not cause problems that I didn't have previously!!   

Apologies for the really long post, and any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!!   Microsoft has a variety of "fixit" solutions for many system problems (including not working OPTICAL drives).Try this link and hopefully one will solve your problem.
http://support.microsoft.com/fixit/
truenorthThanks for the reply!  I had already tried using Fixit and all it tells me is that the drive is empty or the disk in the drive is unreadable, or something along those lines.  It tried to fix the problem by doing all of the things I have already tried.    I'm now at a LOSS!  All I know is that the DVD/CD-ROM was working fine before the reinstall, which suggests that it is not a problem with the drive itself!  Thanks anyway for the help!You might want to visit this site and follow through from it to the Acer site if you feel that something may have been omitted in your process after the O/S reinstall.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110628154819AApg7qH
truenorth

Hello , I have problem with my other laptop (toshiba satellite a300d).Back in the day it crashed , windows dont loading (even those Miniwinxp from HBCD) .Im trying to figure out what is wrong with it,tested RAM -its ok , I think problem is with my graphic card , I tried to scan it with video memory stress test , but results was :
"Loading SMARTDrv
[PMODE/W]Not enought memory available!
Video memory stress test
[PMODE/W]Not enaugh memory available
Bad command or file name" It confused me a little , dont know what it means.Hopefully you will provide me an answer.
Also I tested HDD , but result was unclear either.Toshiba disk diagnostic failed all five test.But hard disk sentinel said that hard disk status is perfect.
Im pretty sure that problem is with hardware. Could you help me to figure out which hardware is faulty ? 

Im sorry for bad english.Im from Lithuania and still studing english , so please dont blame me:)No need to apologize your use of the English language is just fine. Two things have you tried a system restore to an earlier date (a date before the current issue arose is fine)? Have you tried to access the computer in safe mode? Did you add/delete/change anything on the computer coincident to this problem arising/truenorth Quote from: truenorth on November 24, 2012, 01:13:45 PM

No need to apologize your use of the English language is just fine. Two things have you tried a system restore to an earlier date (a date before the current issue arose is fine)? Have you tried to access the computer in safe mode? Did you add/delete/change anything on the computer coincident to this problem arising/truenorth

Have you tried to do a boot without "Yes, there is a HBCD in my optical drive." disc in the drive?truenorth

Hello folks, long time no post. I have an issue I can't seem to FIGURE out. I just purchased a new computer, and am trying to install a harddrive that already has files on it. The harddrive was in an external enclosure, and was running on WINDOWS 7 as well. I see the harddrive in the bios, and when I go to disk managment it is there, but it says the drive is unallocated. Is it possible to install this drive without having to wipe all my files?



Thanks,


MikeNot sure how you got Win7 to run from an external HDD as it usually cannot be done without a hammer and 2 days of patience...
What you can do however is place it back in the enclosure...hook it up to a working PC and backup/burn your data to CD/DVD's or another HDD.
Then remove it and install it internally in your PC...delete and re-create the existing C:\ PARTITION and install away...
Remember to DLoad and re-install all that PC's drivers after the OS is installed... Quote from: patio on November 25, 2012, 09:07:46 AM

Not sure how you got Win7 to run from an external HDD

trying to install a new hard drive on a compaq presario v3000.  actually let me start from the BEGINNING.  the OLD ONE just stopped working one day.  went into bios and ran a hard drive test and said no ide device was detected.  my initial thought was the drive went bad since the computer has been dropped a few times.  took it out and put the new one.  it was my brother-in-law's so since it had an OS on it already thought it would boot right up.  it didn't.  decided to LOAD windows 7 on it to see if that would solve the problem.  got to the point where you pick which drive to load it on and is saying there isn't one detected.  clicked on load driver but problem is i don't have it.  been on hp website trying to find the hdd drivers for this model and haven't had any luck.  any thoughts?For Windows 7, that driver shouldn't be needed. Those drivers were usually only necessary for XP and prior OSes that couldn't see SATA drives.

With the drive in, go to the BIOS. Is the driver shown there?

If not, either that hard drive also doesn't work or dropping the computer has damaged something other than the hard drive.

You could try popping the drives into an external USB box and see if they can be read when plugged into another computer, but I'm guessing the drives aren't the problem here. Laptops never take very well to bring dropped from more than a few inches.

Not sure what the plig n play monitor info has to do with a gaming PC upgrade recommendation...

Don't bump your own posts.

I think a good question is, what specific issues are you having? Asking "What to upgrade for the best experience" is hard to answer; because you could upgrade everything in a computer for better performance. And if you just want affordable upgrades, you need to provide information about what games you play and what exactly you hope to achieve so we can provide helpful information. For example, "What do I need to upgrade if I want to run Skyrim smoothly at 1600x900 at the highest graphics settings?" (as an example), and what your current settings are would give us more information to work with and help posters make suggestions.

Don't bump your own posts.

That's exactly the question i want to be answered
What do I need to upgrade if I want to run Skyrim smoothly at 1600x900 at the highest graphics settings?

First of all, this PROBLEM started a few months ago. Was playing a video game when computer blue screened, it booted back up fine and that was the one and only blue screen I have ever had on this machine. However since then I have had intermittent problems.

Some of the symptoms are as follows:

Explorer.exe freezes/hangs sometimes for only a few minutes, sometimes indefinitely, sometimes it completely crashes and fails to restart. When this happens, I can still move my cursor and hear sounds(for example if it happened while playing a game or watching youtube) but the video completely STOPS, internet connection is lost, cant click or do anything etc etc.

Sometimes after this happens mobo will fail to recognize my SSD and I get a bootmgr missing error. If I reset and go into BIOS my HDD isn't even an option, I have to do a full power cycle then reset BIOS to default for it to recognize my SSD again.

Case fan will fail to properly engage when computer is turned on, it will spin at about 15 RPM and there will be a loud grinding noise. Will take video when it happens again, usually rebooting computer 3~5 times solves this.

Windows update no longer seems to be working, keeps failing to install the same update for a week now.

Disk check and memory check said everything appeared fine. I ran the repair tool on windows CD but nothing came up there either. Neither my malware or AV have shown anything either.

This may or may not be a hardware issue, I have been trying to narrow it down with no luck. Seems like possibly either a MOBO or SSD issue? Hoping it is hardware since I have a solid warranty on every part.

Computer is a custom build with the follow specs:
Windows 7 64-bit (SP1)
MOBO - Asus P8Z68-V PRO
CPU - i7 2600k
Video - Asus EAH6970 DCII 2GB
RAM - GSKILL ripjawsX 4x4GB
PSU - CM silent pro M 850W
CASE - CM HAF X tower
Primary HDD - OCZ vertex 3 MAX IOPS
2ndary HDD - WD 1TB sata 3 caviar black
Running Malwarebytes anti-malware and McAfee security center(provided free through ISP) Quote from: Ryands60 on November 24, 2012, 05:21:40 PM

...Running Malwarebytes anti-malware and McAfee security center(provided free through ISP)

Some of your problems are likely caused by McAfee, the ISP provided ones seems to be the worst offenders.  Uninstalling it & removing all the leftovers can be challenging.  I recently fixed a massive slowdown problem on a Win7-64 quad-core laptop & many of the issues were resolved by the removal of the ISP provided Norton suite.

Replace McAfee with MSE (Microsoft Security Essentials), also free with valid Windows license.

http://service.mcafee.com/FAQDocument.aspx?id=TS101331

Some of your problems do seem to be hardware related, you can also test the RAM with MemTest & the hard drive with WD Data Lifeguard.  Don't know how to test the OCZ.

I uninstalled McAfee following all the steps you linked, appeared to be successful. On following restarts after its removal explorer.exe continued to crash several times. Took several restarts but managed to get a stable launch and installed security essentials, it rang through clean. Also ran MemTest86+, it also rang through clean with no problems. Will run check the WD drive tomorrow, I'm going to bed but will leave MemTest running over night and let it take a few more passes.

Dirty power will cause all kinds of random events...how old is this PSU ? ?

OK...however age isn't always an indicator...
If you can borrow a known good PSU of the same wattage and swap it in there for a day to test.

About 5 minutes ago had my 2nd blue screen ever, tried to take a picture but computer had rebooted by time I grabbed my camera.
On reboot i got bootmgr missing, had to do full power cycle then restore bios to defaults for my SSD to show up as an option.
Booted into safemode with CMD, ran a system file check, which returned some corrupt files but was unable to repair - it created a CBS log
rebooted into regular mode - cannot access the log that was created, says access denied and shows a blank notepad. - figured this part out

Blue screen crash report had the following to say -
Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3
Locale ID: 4105

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode: f4
BCP1: 0000000000000003
BCP2: FFFFFA80113C8B30
BCP3: FFFFFA80113C8E10
BCP4: FFFFF800043DE460
Os Version: 6_1_7601
Service pack: 1_0
Product: 768_1

Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\112512-19032-01.dmp  (Installed BlueScreenView to read the file, it is saying caused by Driver: "ntoskrnl.exe")
C:\WIndows\Temp\WER-19125-0.sysdata.xml  (Can't find this file at all)

As far as the PSU goes, I will venture to my computer shop and see if they have something I can borrow.

...
Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\112512-19032-01.dmp  (Installed BlueScreenView to read the file, it is saying caused by Driver: "ntoskrnl.exe")
C:\WIndows\Temp\WER-19125-0.sysdata.xml  (Can't find this file at all)

Looking like motherboard problem, but you can try reinstalling the chipset drivers.
If no good, next step would be Win7-64 repair install.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/3413-repair-install.html

If your anything like me, its driving you nuts not knowing the cause of a problem...

After i plug in and plug out the two harddisks, then restart, the COMPUTER can't be startup when i press the POWER button of the case. After i've changed the power colt, i can startup the computer by PRESSING the power button, but i keep pressing the power button for a long time, the computer can't be shut down.

Which part of the computer hardware most likely cause the problem?1st culprit...Power switch.
2nd culprit...the PSU itself.

But why are you plugging and unplugging the HDD's to diagnose a power issue ?
Reason i ask is i've seen the BIOS get temporarily cornfused when drives are constantly being unplugged, re-jumpered and dis-connected...patio
The reason's i plugging and unplugging the HDD's is to install window 8 for my main harddisk, after installed, i plug back the harddisk, then the problems occur.

The strange is that the case front fan is also stopped. Maybe it really the power switch problem.Nope...now the PSU has moved up to #1...
That or the front header wiring itself...

P.S...are you saying you are INSTALLING Win8 on a different PC...then swapping it to this one ? ?
"Cause that'll never work.Same pc, i have 3 harddisks Quote

The reason's i plugging and unplugging the HDD's is to install window 8 for my main harddisk, after installed, i plug back the harddisk, then the problems occur.

I have a HP Netserver LH II when I boot it COMES up something like CDmROM CDUm4q5 this is attached to a netware sever but, I have another one that does that which, is IDE interfaced that is part of Windows 2000 - XP. Just wondered if that wasnt a power ISSUE on the board or if that is what I should be seeing of the netware one during the postCan someone help?  I want to put win 2k Server on it an need the Cd disk drive too workWhy CONSISTENTLY bang your head against the wall ? ?
Swap another OPTICAL drive in there and do the install...

This is what happens consistently when your equipment comes from the bin, treelawns...and garage sales. Quote from: patio on November 27, 2012, 10:31:09 AM

Why consistently bang your head against the wall ? ?
Swap another optical drive in there and do the install...

This is what happens consistently when your equipment comes from the bin, treelawns...and garage sales.

None of that is how I get machines.  Any rate, I dont have a replacement an the units were replaced with new audimation at the time the unit was in use.

I finally got my VIDEO cards driver working for dual video.  Using windows 7 Im able to go from svideo to RCA. Thing is that it sees FOUR attached monitors the third being my tv.  I want too keep everything to the first two but be able to put like movies out to the tv without loosening my second monitor. It's a nvidia GeForce fx 5500Im gusseing it cant do this since there is a limit to the display output of most video cardsSomewhere out in this vast Universe there's probably an answer to your query...
However after reading it 7 times i still cannot see a dilemna...just dont want to lose the other monitor cause, I have the tv about six feet from my desk which, is ALOT smaller then my monitor.  I just ment that it was a limation of the card
Quote from: patio on November 27, 2012, 06:03:49 PM

Somewhere out in this vast Universe there's probably an answer to your query...
However after reading it 7 times i still cannot see a dilemna...

dilemna...

Patio, that is not how you spell dilemma! (Don't worry; you're not the only one, nobody knows how it started; plenty of web discussions about it)(You still spell 10000 times better than some people I could mention...)

I have assembled a new PC with the following config:
Intel ATOM D2500HN motherboard
Hynix 2GB SO-DIMM DDR3 Component NUMBER HMT125S6BFR8C-H9N0
ADATA SSD Drive SP900 64 GB
Panache T-3311 MINI ITX cabinet
USB Keyboard and Mouse

On trying to boot the PC, the green LED (HD LED) flashes - two short, one long. No change APPEARS on the screen - no BIOS screen or error message appears. No lights flash on the keyboard too.

I have checked the RAM on a different PC and it works fine. I have not checked the SSD yet, but it is brand new and expected to be OK.

Please help!!!2 short 1 long sounds like RAM to me...
Did you check the MBoard Manual for a QVL list for what RAM is recommended for that board ? ?Yes, did that. The RAM I'm using is on the list.Try it with one stick...then i'd LOOK up the beep codes for that BIOS...
I could be wrong.Thanks Patio!!

It WAS the RAM at fault. I tried the SO-DIMM in the other slot and it works fine!Cool...we love success stories here...
Glad you're fixed up.

Hi,

I have this problem for one week. I have the following error message when I start up my PC, a 6-year old HP pavilion desktop:

“REBOOT and select proper device or insert boot media in selected boot drive and press a key”

Pressing any key gives me the same message. The night before the problem STARTED, it was OK – however, I noticed that the shutdown process was much slower than usual.

I had done the following to try to resolve the problem but without success:

I had gone into the cmos setup / Boot Device priority and tried to set to boot from hard drive first but it indicates “HDD Group Boot Priority” as not installed.
 
In cmos setup, I pressed F5 key to Load Setup defaults, then F10 to save and exit cmos setup.
I took out the coin size battery from the motherboard, waited for 15 minutes and placed it back – then went into cmos again, press F5 again to Load Setup defaults. Repeated the process twice, this time waited for half an hour before putting the battery back – still cannot boot.

I took out the graphics card and put it back; unplugged the power cable from the hard drive and inserted it back; used another spare power connector to connect to the hard drive.
I pulled out (disconnect) the hard drive data cable (red color) from both the hard drive and motherboard and re-connect it back – still cannot boot.

And I realized something is very strange – now, every time I switched on the power on the wall plug, the PC start to power up immediately and the power button on the PC casing is lighted even though I did not press the casing’s power button. Normally, I need to press the casing’s power button to start up the PC after switching on the wall plug. It seems the power button (momentary switch) is latched on all the time..
When I press and hold the power button, the PC shutdown immediately and the power light goes off. But when I let go, it start to power up again (supposed to stay shut).
I’ve also tried pulling out the power button cable connector from the motherboard and reconnecting it back.

The PSU was changed about 3 years ago with one that carries a 5-year warranty and not a cheap one (AC Bel). I have only one hard drive.

I am not very familiar with PC hardware. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
Is there a CD in the drive ? ? Quote

“Reboot and select proper device or insert boot media in selected boot drive and press a key”

 every time I switched on the power on the wall plug, the PC start to power up immediately

Some time ago the modem went out on my T2824 emachine. I didn't bother replacing it as I also have a mac. I disconnected the monitor but left the tower inside the desk cubby where it has always been. Today I decided to retrieve my pictures from the tower and reconnected monitor but the tower won't turn on. It was working fine SEVERAL months ago even when the modem went out. Any ideas as to what happened?
If tower has power cord connected to it and live outlet and wont turn on, I'd replace the power supply in the unit. Lots of eMachines had power supply issues that i have worked with. My one eMachine that i gave was GIVEN to me free dead and the power supply just needed to be replaced. For the fact that the modem died... did this computer take a hit from lightning maybe?

If you push the power button and nothing happens, no LEDs light up then swap power supplies. If you have a power LED lit, but system isnt booting then DIFFERENT things can be tried. I am guessing its totally off as wont turn on.Hi, thanks for the reply.
When plugged in  nothing comes on. I tried another power cord but nothing.
Is the power supply unit EXPENSIVE or hard to replace? I don't want to invest a lot just to get my pictures out of it....as for the modem, no lightning or any kind of a power serge that I know of.Borrow one from a friend for overnite and swap it in there...
This won't cost anything but time...
And Dave is correct...eMachines has always been notorious for junk PSU's. Quote from: Donna12054 on November 25, 2012, 06:38:09 PM

Hi, thanks for the reply.
When plugged in  nothing comes on. I tried another power cord but nothing.
Is the power supply unit expensive or hard to replace? I don't want to invest a lot just to get my pictures out of it....as for the modem, no lightning or any kind of a power serge that I know of.

have a humax foxsat-hdr and i have a tp-link plugged into it in the living room and in the computer room one is plugged into the belkin router,i can get bbc i player and itv1 player and an arts service so i must be onto the internet are these the only things i can get onto and if no what do i do?No idea what you're asking.I can translate (the OP is clearly British) He has a Humax-HDR which is a combination satellite TV receiver and PVR sold in the UK. It works on a service called FreeSat. (Brits tend to call anything like that a "set TOP box"). He has connected it to his internet-connected router using TPlink brand "home plugs" which is a way of carrying a home network over the AC house wiring. He is aware that the HDR can get BBC iPlayer (a web based catch up TV service) and iTV Player (similar) and ANOTHER one, and he wishes to know if he can get any other web based streaming services.

earlook, a quick Google search told me that on the Humax HDR the iPlayer, iTV player etc are coming to you down from the satellite on channels 901 onwards and what you can get depends on whether the provider has made a deal with Humax and Freesat to do these services. I don't think the network connection is there to let you get on the web and use apps like some recent smart TVs and media players.

Having said that, this American forum is mainly for computer issues and you might get some more detailed advice from a UK based home ENTERTAINMENT forum, AVforums is very good and UK based. In fact there are lots of Freesat forums, some with Humax sections. Google is your friend. Try typing this: "humax foxsat hdr internet apps" (without the quotes).

A little bit of advice... if you are ABLE to, try writing a bit more clearly and try using capital letters and full stops every now and then as some of the people on those forums can get a bit impatient and flame you or else just ignore you.
Thanks ST thanks a lot.

Hello,

I just wonder if anyone has a Dell Precision 690 Desktop with a Xeon x5365 processor to successfully setup with a VMware virtualized ESXi 5 Host ALONG with installing any 64 bit OS VMs (W2K8R2 or W2K12) under the host.

Thanks in advance






The 1st thing i would check would be to see if that MBoard SUPPORTS a Xeon CPU...Dell Precision 690 Workstations SUPPORT Xeon PROCESSORS (x51XX and x53xx series).

Hi i have a HP Pavilion a740 desktop and want to change my PSU due to some START up FAILURES with the PSU flashing green. What would be the right PSU for my model? My current PSU is a 250W. Thanks.I think they are all the same unless you are get the one less watt, so you should buy one the > or = 250 watt then it will be fineNo there not all the same, i once had a Dell DIMENSION 8100 desktop and bought a new power supply unit for it, it was an ATX PSU 450w and the cables were different, i don't have that PSU now anymore, i say any standard ATX PSU will do my PH Pavilion.

edited by AllanMy graphic card died here after alot of months where the fan made loud noices, and I kept getting wierd patterns and lines, random numbers when it boots, and it could pretty much not work for a WHOLE day. It got much worse the last couple of days, I got 2 blue screens, with out even getting an answer to why it came. It would start, then shut down after a couple of seconds, then start again without me doing anything, and repeat. I DECIDED to take out the graphic card to see if it would STILL happen if I ran my computer with my motherboards graphic card, and as I expected, it worked out fine, haven't gotten anything the last couple of days. The problem is that I got this comp a while back, and I want to know what graphic cards it can run okay with. Me and my family almost has no money, and when I so no money, I mean it. But I have saved some money, and I spend so much time on the pc, so why not use the money on something I would enjoy, like a new edited by Allangraphic card.

My motherboard is Intel pentium e5400.

My old graphic card was the Geforce GT 220.

You probably need more information, but really don't know what to say, tell me if you need more information!

My real question is basically, what graphic card, in the money range of 100 dollars, can my computer use?

REs is 1680x1050



http://www.techspot.com/community/attachments/cpu-png.74733/ CPU

http://www.techspot.com/community/attachments/cpu-png.74734/ - motherboardI edited your POST. Please spare us the colorful language. Thank you.

What is the make and model of your computer?

I was wondering if anyone knows if a Dell motherboard model 0G1548 A00 can have a firewire connected to it?  I tried looking into it but COULD not find an answer.If it has it a firewire port on board, then yes, otherwise you'll need an add on CARD.

[Update]

Quote

Dell Dimension 2400s don't have FireWire connectors on them. However, you can BUY a PCI FireWire card that will plug into your computer and give you FireWire support.

this new printer has not downloaded correctly
1 when you click print the page opens up but where it normally indicates print at the top of the page i says save, fortunately i can still print by going to the BOTTOM of the page and click on PRINT USING SYSTEM DIALOGUE
2 i cannot open up the HP PRINT ASSISTANT to GAIN access to help info,printer software etc
any help much appreciated Uninstall the printer physically and all the software.Including disconnecting the power cord.Then with your instructions in hand reinstall the printer EXACTLY in the manner described in your manual.Most initial printer PROBLEMS are related to not doing the install precisely as the manual stipulates.truenorthOn that note if it is a USB printer do NOT CONNECT it to the PC ubtil the installation software prompts you to...

I recently upgraded my graphics card to a Sapphire ATI Radeon 5770, my OS is Windows 7 The problems I've been having ever since then are varied and there are too many to name, first of all my taskbar at the BOTTOM wont hide when i go full screen, when i click on an option with a drop down menu the menu appears in the upper left corner of the screen and is very small, My computer seems to take forever to boot up and my internet sessions are prone to freezing, the address bar on google chrome has huge font-too big to read what you've typed in, and lastly i cant SEEM to click on the three buttons in the TOP RIGHT corner(minimize, maximize, close) these are just a few of the bugs im experiencing, can anyone offer some suggestions please and thanks!Did you ensure that you had installed the latest and appropriate drivers for your operating system with attention to whether you have a 32 bit or a 64 bit O/S? truenorth

The top 1/3rd of my screen is really light and if I MOVE the mouse pointer up into it it has a trail behind it and goes SLOWLY. the bottom portion of the screen is fine. what's up?

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]sorry guys......I took a screen SHOT and posted it thinking it would show what was wrong but it seems the screen shot turned out normal. ANYWAYS, my screen just flickered back to completely normal. would still like to know what's wrongscreen is screwing up again with the same problem.....keeps FLASHING on and off. What does it mean when a bar across the top goes lighter?This is a problem with your screen. It could just be a loose connection via the cable.

It can also be any adapters you were using, for example if you have a Adapter to plug a VGA cable to a DVI port.