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4851.

Solve : Lenovo G575 Mysterious port?

Answer»

I have a Lonovo G575 laptop, and I am trying to figure out what a port on my computer is/what it does.  It is on the left SIDE of the laptop; it is on a row with two USB ports, an itself looks like a USB port, except that it is slightly thinner and has 2 plastic blocks about 2mm x 4mm on either side of it.  Trying to plug a usb into it does not work; it is slightly to small for ANYTHING to fit.  The plastic and the little stick-out thing inside are darkish grey, so I don't think it is a USB 3.0.  Thanks for the help.

Edit:  After looking around on the internet, I found a picture of the laptop on the side I wanted, and even that picture doesn't show the port; it just shows another usb port.  Here it is if you want to look.  The port in question is the third port from the front of the computer to the back.  Also, I don't have the HDMI output.
http://www.productwiki.com/upload/images/lenovo_g575.jpgSince the picture you PROVIDED is not the same as the one you have, I don't see how it's any help in identifying the port in question.  Can't you just take a picture of what you have & post it here?  Could be an eSATAp port.


Is this it?


USB 3.0 is not always blue but has 5 extra contacts inside.

You can't readily see the extra contacts.  They are the 5 squares in the front.

http://pinoutsguide.com/Slots/usb_3_0_connector_pinout.shtml

I went through this on my HP laptop.  Some spec sheets say it has 1 USB3.0, others don't even mention it.  The color is the same as the USB2.0, there's just no contacts inside the squares.  Windows Device Manager will tell you for sure if it EXISTS.  Plug a 3.0 device in & it's quite a bit faster but not 10x faster, more like 2x.The pic from Notebookcheck.com is it!  So it's an eSATA port?  Thanks so much for your help! Quote from: Harry_T on July 14, 2012, 12:30:31 PM

The pic from Notebookcheck.com is it!  So it's an eSATA port?  Thanks so much for your help!

Is it an "eSATA + USB port" sometimes called eSATAp? Getting quite common on notebooks.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESATAp



but...



Salmon, the thing is that flash drives and other usb 2.0 things do not fit in the third slot.  I'm trying to find out what it is and what FITS in it.Didn't you already say that this was it?


A USB plug is not going it fit into an eSATA jack. Quote from: Computer_Commando on July 15, 2012, 07:05:08 AM
Didn't you already say that this was it?


A USB plug is not going it fit into an eSATA jack.

That lower picture is of a eSATA + USB connector, also called an eSATAp outlet, which will take either. If it won't accept a USB plug, it can't be eSATAp, which is a combination connection for external storage devices. A single eSATAp, eSATA or USB device can be plugged into an eSATAp port. The socket has keyed cutouts for both types of device to ensure that a connector can only be plugged in the right way round.




4852.

Solve : How powerfull PSU, do i need??

Answer»

Free for options , just tell me any PSU that are good /reliable , after i will look which one fits for my system with the wiring.The trend is less power, more bang.
Anything over 700 watts is overkill.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 14, 2012, 06:25:59 PM

The trend is less power, more bang.
Anything over 700 watts is overkill.

How can you possibly come up with that answer considering the major lack of information given?

Eacany,

You need to GIVE the full list of hardware for your comp before you can get a reasonable answer.So here will be my nes system

Case-            Cooler Master HAF 912 PLUS
MotherB. -     Asrock X79 Extreme4 
CPU -            Intel Core i7-3820   Max TDP: 130W
CPU Cooler -Cooler Master Hyper 412S
RAM-             Corsair Vengeance BLACK, 8GB, DDR3, 1600MHz, CL9, Kit of 2
HDD-             Western Digital 500GB, 7200rpm, 32MB, Sata III, Caviar Black   POWER SUPPLY - 12V DC (±10%)
VIDEO-          Sapphire Radeon HD7950, 3GB, GDDR5, OC

If i need to post anything else ,please say soTo get an idea of your PSU requirement, go to http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp and use the CALCULATOR. I voted...do i get a Prize ? ?No you dont

Thx for the site, and help.Depends what you need your PSU for. For gaming I would go for 500W. For low end games 400W.

Just know how much Wattage is needed for your graphics card and make sure they are all compatible with your motherboard.
4853.

Solve : Help with LaCie d2 Quadra Hard Disk?

Answer»

I had bought a used LaCie d2 Quadra Hard Disk off a friend of mine. I trust him so I think its in working condition. The problem is he didn't have the install disk so i'm having trouble reformatting it and even having it show up on my COMPUTER. I went to the lacie website, tried GOING through their trouble shooting instructions but still nothing

I do own both a PC with windows 7 and a mac so I would like to have it working on both systems. When i plug it into either system the drive won't even show up. I'm completely new to Lacie products so i'm KIND of lost. I tried reading the manual but it just says that I need to start the start up assistant but i can't do that without the disc I guess.

Any INPUT to get me to get this thing working would be greatly appreciated!!!!
Is this the one?
http://www.lacie.com/products/product.htm?id=10330
eSATA, USB2.0 & Firewire 400 & 800.
Which connection are you USING?
Are you using the supplied external power supply?

The LaCie software is not required.yep thats the one. i just looked it up and i was not using the correct power supply. I'm gonna try ordering it. Thanks!!!

4854.

Solve : Computer won't connect to monitor?

Answer»

As per the "read this first" thread's advice, the computer has these specs:

Asus P8Z77-V LX Motherboard
Intel Ivy Bridge I7 3770K Unlocked CPU
2tb Sata Hard Drive
16gb DDR3 1333 Memory
Nvidia Geforce GTX 680 2gb GDDR5 with HDMI
24x Dual Layer Sata DVD Writer
750 Watt Branded Power Supply
Windows 7 Home PREMIUM 64bit With Disc and License

The problem:

The computer sounds normal when turned on - no beeped error message as far as I can tell, the keyboard/mouse gain power, et cetera - but the monitor displays the same "No Signal" message you'd get if you turned it on without connecting it to ANYTHING. I tried moving the mouse/using the keyboard, checking/re-inserting the cable, still didn't work. I've now tried four monitors - two using a VGA connection and two using HDMI - and I get the same result with all of them. My TV (HDMI connection) does switch to the appropriate channel when the computer is turned on, but gives no further sign there's anything connected. The computer is new (as in, it arrived today) and has had this issue from the start. I've emailed the COMPANY in question (Freshtech Solutions UK) but have yet to get a response.

Is there some basic step I've missed, or do I have a faulty component? Thanks in advance to any replies.Well whatever it turns out to be and my suspicion is the graphics card YOU should NOT try to do anything yourself. You should rely on your warranty for the resolution to this.To do otherwise may provide an excuse to void the warranty.truenorthWith all power removed try removing and re-seating the vid card...

If that produces no joy-joy i'd sugest testing the card in another PC... Quote from: patio on July 13, 2012, 09:06:12 PM

With all power removed try removing and re-seating the vid card...

If that produces no joy-joy i'd sugest testing the card in another PC...

Won't this void warranty?"Won't this void warranty?" That is very possible if when doing anything re the card either it or the slot is damaged. Not knowing the knowledge/expertise level of the O/P my recommendation is based on minimizing warranty risk.truenorth Quote from: immental1200 on July 16, 2012, 09:46:23 AM
Won't this void warranty?

I don't know...did you call the Manuf. of his PC to find out ? ? Quote from: patio on July 16, 2012, 06:26:58 PM
I don't know...did you call the Manuf. of his PC to find out ? ?

No need, its on their website.

No.5

http://www.freshtechsolutions.co.uk/customer-service#returns
4855.

Solve : The slowest laptop in the world.....probably?

Answer»

Hi,
I know laptops can become slower over time it my laptop has become so slow it's LIKE using a zx80 machine from the 1980s
I'm not sure why this is happening but I installed prism ( a free utility that converts files ) and ran it on 21st JULY converting a movie into mpeg4 to go on the iPad.
It worked and then I went on holiday.
I have just come home and tried to use my laptop which has now become so slow I almost gave up using it.
Any ideas? Could it be a virus?
ThanksYou've provided absolutely nothing for us to work with.

What OS?

What are the SPECS of your system?

EXACTLY what is slow? DESCRIBE the problem IN DETAIL.

What happens when you boot to safe mode?

From where did you download prism?

Have you run full scans with your AV and MalwareBytes (both)? If not, please do so now.

4856.

Solve : disk boot failure & cd/dvd drive won't open.?

Answer»

I have an hp computer that I had a PC repair store do some work on. They wiped it clean (giving it to a friend) & since then it has been sitting in a corner. Decided to plug it all in & make sure everything was there before sending it off. I now have an error message "disk boot failure, insert system disk and press enter". I ALSO can't get the CD/DVD drive to open. I even tried to do it manually with a paperclip. The green light comes on & you can hear it trying, but nothing opens/comes out....could these 2 things be related? How do i get the drive to open when I can't even get passed the main screen?
Here is the CD Eject Tool.
You must open the CD tray and insert the Windows CD before the boot up starts.
http://www.lancelhoff.com/disk-boot-failure-insert-system-disk-and-press-enter/
The FIRST suggestion in this link worked out for me before. Good morning turkeyheath

Just like the link jason2074 posted may help you, and also the paperclip trick that Geek-9PM shows works GREAT for ejecting a disk when the cd drive will not open plus you can do this in windows if you go into "my computer" and look for your cd drive letter (ie "D" or "E") and right click that drive and select "eject" this to may work sometimes so long as the drive is not stuck to bad.

Things to look at but please remember to try these only when the PC is off and for extra protection unplug your power cord from the power supply in the back of your PC

Open the desktop up by removing the side case panel and look inside if the PC is a little older the Hard drive and CD drives may have IDE cables and a power plug (molex connector) the molex plug can only fit in one way so that part is straight forward. Now the IDE should ALWAYS have a red stripe that stripe (or red dashes) has to be facing the power plug  you may want to check these.

Now to check the jumpers on the CD drives and hard drives depending on how old the PC is the drive manufacture may PREFER to use the master / slave setting or cable select but to give you an idea what the jumpers look like    

The reason I am putting this in here is the jumper settings may be the issue.

Also if you have IDE drives (hard drive and cd drive) say one of each they must be connected to the last connector on the IDE cable here is a pic to show that

Now if your PC has sata cables there is no master / slave connection only one drive can be connected to a sata cable at a time.
here is a sata cable

some sata cable have a power plug and data plug together like this

The big thing to keep in mind ALL sata cables can only be plugged in one way and with to much pressure can brake off the tab on the drive here is what the sata ports look like on the hard drive

If all connections are correct on all drives, check and make sure there is no floppy disk in the drive, no usb thumb drives plugged in and double check the boot sequence in the BIOS, one last thing if there is a multi-card reader either plugged into the header plug on the motherboard or a usb card reader plugged into the usb port on some systems can stop a PC from boot. But his only HAPPENS on few PC systems.

If nothing seems to work the OS may need to be re-installed or you may have a bad drive. 

Please let us know how you make out, i am curious to see what your issue was.   

4857.

Solve : Best Wireless Router?

Answer»

I would like your opinion on a new WIRELESS router.
my old linksys G router has seen better days, seeing as its about 7 ys old.
 i am wanting to spend up to 150.00 on it. my main PC is wired for gaming, but the router will FEED phones, my wifes laptop, my SONS PS3, and very soon, a wireless DVD player that has the internet apps on it.
i live in an apartment complex, so i need good range to reach upstairs.
i have looked at the Linksys E4200 and 4500. the Netgear N600, and the Asus. please give your opinion on what i should need for what i have. it will be a kinda "set it and forget it", but i want good performance for all the many wireless needs i have in my home.

           thanks in advance, DavidThe router will feed your phones?

Can you explain this further. Are you using VoIP phones? Quote from: immental1200 on July 16, 2012, 09:34:26 AM

The router will feed your phones?

Can you explain this further. Are you using VoIP phones?
OBVIOUSLY it's voip.I personally recommend the Asus routers. RELIABLE, SPEEDY and feature packed.

No problems with the ones I've used so far..
4858.

Solve : Networking help!?

Answer»

Can someone please help me choose an inexpensive modem/router for my dell vostro 200 computer? Im trying to get INTERNET access without having a landline phone. Thanks in advance.
Your question is not specific enough. Are you just looking for a wireless router recomendation? Quote from: Lisa on June 21, 2012, 08:50:36 AM

Can someone please help me choose an inexpensive modem/router for my dell vostro 200 computer? Im trying to get internet access without having a landline phone. Thanks in advance.


If your in the UK ... look at Virgin Media.
If your in the US ... look at some other cabled internet provider.

A router / modem ALONE will NOT provide internet connectivity.

You could get a 3G modem which will either be pay monthly or PAYG. I really don't recommend this however, as I've always found them horrific to use speed and connection wise.Many ISP's include a wireless router in their Home package...i'd call them 1ST before spending any cabbage.Patio is right in that most service providers supply a wireless router with the service but you might want to mention if your computer may be more than 30 feet away. They may be able to set it up to extend the range because most supplied routers have a very limited range. Walls and distance hurt the signal. If you want to set your own wireless system see if you can get just a modem from your ISP and a linskys router will work great and have range options that most provided ISP routers do not. I have not price one in awhile but mine cost $100.
4859.

Solve : LAPTOP SHOPPING?

Answer»

My 2-year old Acer Timeline X series laptop has a damaged heat sync and is over heating and shutting down on me on occasion. I was told by a technician that it will cost at least $200 to replace the heat sync and CPU fan (parts and labor). It seems foolish to do that so I will need to buy a new PC.

Basically, I do a lot of multi-tasking, surfing, word processing, and I watch videos. I am currently a student so I hope to be able to use programs such as Cool Edit Pro and Sony Vegas for editing audio and video, too. Based on my experience of short laptop lives, I would like to KEEP the cost down. Any suggestions as to what to buy and where? Located in Winnipeg, Canada.hockeysticks,
  What you want is what we all want. Portable, low-cost, performance and long life. Hard to find.
   If you can forsake portability, GO for a Desktop. Still the best CHOICE, except for lack of portability.

You could just go buy a replacement for the laptop you have. You would have some SPARE parts on hand.If I were you, I would get a Acer Timeline X  laptop from a reputable eBay vendor. I see a couple for about $400. They are new but NOT in original box. Buyer beware! But if the vendor is a good GUY, it would be a good deal.

Have you already looked at some new laptop reviews?
http://computers.toptenreviews.com/laptops/
You will have a hard time getting cool edit pro to run on Windows 7 or Vista.

4860.

Solve : printer problems-runs paper through, no print shows up?

Answer»

Hello again-my HP Deskjet F4280 runs PAPER through, doesn't print. I just tried to make a copy-it won't do that, either; also, it will not self-test. I'm afraid my PRINTER is ready to be recycled! Any ideas on a good, not-too-expensive all-in-one to work with a Dell Inspiron running Windows Vista?  We print mostly documents, also music from Finale 2003. ThanksThose printers go through a lot of ink.
Depending on where you live, I world sagest betting a printer from a local source. Any price advantage of on-line ordering has to include shipping
The local vender nay a have good selection and can exchange for a better unit, if need be. And some STORES will order for you and not change shipping.
I have a HP 6500 and have mixed feelings about it.  Right now it is working, but it has its moments.

CNET reviews these two as the top all-int-one models.
HP Officejet Pro 8600 PLUS e-All-in-One Printer
Epson WorkForce 845 All-in-One Printer
I think the CNET REVIEW is credible.
http://reviews.cnet.com/best-all-in-one-printers/

p.s. Think about getting an extended warranty. Doing your own printer repair is no fun at all. I have been doing that for years and I am sick of it.
Quote

p.s. Think about getting an extended warranty. Doing your own printer repair is no fun at all. I have been doing that for years and I am sick of it.

If you've been repairing printers that long that explains alot...
4861.

Solve : Best Air cpu cooler?

Answer»

Hi, I would like some recommendations on a Air CPU cooler for my Gigabyte Ga-Z68AP-D3 mobo. I have a i52500k processor in it.Willing to pay 40 bucks or under. MY SPECS ARE LISTED UNDER MY SPECS NEXT TO MY AVATAR, Thanks.40 Bucks may not get you a good one but look at Zahlman...I would pay more...... no more than 100 dollors. will look at yours for 40. thanks for the reply.I like the zahlmans, cool looks too. what would you reccommend for the 100 dollor PRICE range?.will a cooler master 212 plus fit my mobo? is it a good cooler?I think it does. Check the socket size.might also look at what kind of bearing system is used in the cooler you are looking to get that will determine how well it run and how long it will last ALONG with other factors.  The liquid type are good and I believe the coolermaster has those kinds of bearings. You want it to be able to spin as EASILY as possible.   Shop around and look at the specs on those fans remember ya get what ya pay fur!!.....................gjmay

4862.

Solve : Ram/FSB Confusion?

Answer»

Hi,

I'm having some ISSUES with comprehending the relation between the RAM speed, and FSB speed frequencies. I'm aware that the FSB speed dictates the overall flow and speed of data, power, and communication signaling between the CPU, RAM and other components inside the computer case, but when it comes to understanding the significance of the speed factors between the CPU and RAM I'm lost; Am I to make sure for maximum transfer/efficiency of data from the CPU to RAM, that the RAM speed should be synced with the FSB speed? Or is it POSSIBLE to make them both operate at different speeds and not suffer the drawbacks of bottlenecking regarding the slower source?

Thanks in advanced guys! Much appreciated!I have run 800Mhz FSB CPU's on 667Mhz Ram before, but you dont get the full performance.

I have also run 800Mhz FSB CPU's on 1066Mhz Ram and the Ram either fails to post in the MOTHERBOARD in which black screen on power up, or the 1066Mhz Ram down clocks to 800Mhz to match that of the CPU. I have yet to see a benefit in PUTTING Ram into a system that can operate faster than the FSB of the CPU.

Hope this info helps... Basically its best to pair up matching FSB speed of CPU and RAM, and if one is slower than the other, it can lead to degraded performance, failure to boot, or in my example above the Ram slowing to match the FSB speed of the CPU in which the faster Ram acts like regular slower 800Mhz Ram.This helps. I suppose from now on making sure the RAM is at a speed that doesn't out perform the FSB will provide optimum performance, then?because anything else will inevitably fail in supplying the system ACCESS to it's full performance, be it from either the RAM's excessively high speeds causing the RAM to fail to POST;  At any rate, the RAM will step it's performance down to match that of the CPU/FSB speed. Either way  like you said DaveLembke, no benefit is shown from placing RAM that operates at a high speed into a system with a slower FSB speed. The FSB couldn't keep up.

The FSB speed is from what I gather the dominant function that dictactes the speed of the system and it's ability to communicate effectively between the RAM and various other components around the motherboard.

4863.

Solve : Red light on screen?

Answer»

Last night a red light started to appear on my computer screen in RANDOM places. In the corner of the screen. On certain words. Down the middle of the screen. On a picture but when I scroll down it stays on the picture. When I go to a different tab when browsing the web its not there but is on another one. No real PROBLEMS with the computer just this red light that FREAKS me out a BIT. Tried restarting it, but didn't help. That's a new one on me. I'd start by running full scans with your AV and with MalwareBytes.Could the OP post a couple of screen shots?Infection...or not...i've honestly never ever heard of this CONDITION...

4864.

Solve : HP deskjet F4280?

Answer»

Hello. Printer is moving the paper, but no PRINT appears. Problem initially in Finale 2003 but also will not print anything:Word, stuff from folders, etc. Printer is on, plugged in, cartridges are ready (no paper strip on bottom!) ThanksGood evening

First off is the printer reporting the cartridges have INK if so. How long has it been since any print jobs have been done with ink cart's if it has been to long they will dry up.

If this doesn't help let me know. Mike Quote from: adlerlk12 on July 16, 2012, 12:59:32 PM

Hello. Printer is moving the paper, but no print appears. Problem initially in Finale 2003 but also will not print anything:Word, stuff from folders, etc. Printer is on, plugged in, cartridges are ready (no paper strip on bottom!) Thanks

USE the printer UTILITIES to clean the printer heads and any other MAINTENANCE offered by the printer.
4865.

Solve : reinstalled windows xp,but cant get on the internet.?

Answer»

Afterr installing xp back on my pc I cant get on the internet. I signed up with windows and typed the number in that they gave me and it said I was done and working ok . I calledc the ip and after a few trys
The ip guy says the network card DRIVER must not be GETTING installed.  He might not be right cause I USED the same disc several years ago and it worked on another pc. The disc is for a Dell and its a HP I installed it on..
Any ideas what I could try?
Neil You should use the HP install CD for XP. Works for me.
Otherwise, use another PC to get to the HP site and find the right rifer for the network card.
http://hp.com/support
Select your origin. Some HPs are different in some places.



Did you install ALL drivers including the chipset driver? Look in Device MANAGER - are there any YELLOW or red symbols?

4866.

Solve : dvd change in w7 desktop?

Answer»

how do i change a dvd in w7 desktop. there is a plastic slide lock (moves about 1/2 ins) on the SIDE of dvd & power UNITS. how to get around this to get dvd out.
thanksare you trying to change the dvd player? be a little more specific     gjmayGood EVENING

OK I think you are talking about using the little manual eject hole in the front face plate that you USE a paper clip. If so just push in the paper clip and when the tray opens a bit just pull the tray out the rest of the way and get your DVD out.

If that is not what you are talking about please give more info on what you are trying to do.

Mike

4867.

Solve : On the Acer aspire s275, speakers not working!!!!?

Answer»

speakers no work acer aspire d275. i listen music alot so problem for me. sorry bad englishDo you mean both internal and USING external speakers or headphones? Did you check DEVICE manager for any flags or marks for the audio chip by expanding the sound and VIDEO controller? Any changes before the problem occured?internal speaker is one no work. I make no change.. earphones no work either.is fix.. I do no thing... it just fix it selfNot quite sure why you are pretending to speak BROKEN English when your 1st 12 Posts here were fine...

Kinda SILLY.

4868.

Solve : d845pt not being able to boot?

Answer»

So i have the INTEL d845pt, and right now it is not booting. It was before, but i had changed the jumper for the bios to the config mode, and placed a floppy drive loaded with the files listed here:
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?lang=eng&ProductID=786&DwnldID=5222

that loaded a different bios, and i messed with things there and fixed a problem i had doing that. But then i took out the jumper and FORGOT to place it back into the normal mode, LEAVING it in recovery mode.

I powered of the computer after seeing it not boot and then replaced the jumper.

Now, it is still unable to boot. Anyone have any suggestions as to the cause of this and a solution? This was a useless thread. Moderators, feel welcome to delete it

the solution i found is that i must have accidentally set a different value to something in the bios. Resetting to the factory default was the solution

big derp on my part. We leave threads up so someone ROLLING by may learn from it...

Good to HEAR you are fixed up.yep that's why i like coming here I always come away learning something..................gjmay

4869.

Solve : Compaq Presario won't boot?

Answer»

I have a Compaq Presario that I acquired as a project computer.
When I received the computer, it was missing a hard drive, a case fan, and a power supply.
I subsequently installed a 300watt PSU, upgraded the RAM to 2GB, installed a 320GB SATA HDD, and installed a case fan.
I installed Ubuntu 12.04 on this computer and things seemed to be running great.

Recently, I would hit the power button, and the fans would start, but the monitor would indicate "no signal".
I removed the side panel and observed the system booting.  The following describes what the system is doing:

Upon startup, the CPU fan will spin-up for approximately five seconds then stop, monitor will have no signal.  However, the case fan will continue running.  No system BIOS information will be displayed on the monitor.  On rare occasions, if you leave the system running, the CPU fan will eventually start and the BIOS information will be displayed and Ubuntu will PROMPT for a login.

I've tried resetting the RAM modules --- no difference
I've tried a second 300watt PSU  ---- made my monitor go crazy
Checked voltage on original PSU ----- 5v outputs reading 5.14v (rock steady)
Tried a new CPU fan  --- shuts down after five seconds just like the original fan

Any help will be sincerely appreciated.Usually the 5 second shutdown is associated with either a thermal condition or cooling fan tach signal missing. Guessing you have thermal compound between CPU and Heatsink and that all fans are plugged in to the 3 pins.

Have you tried 1 stick of Ram or the Other to boot on a single stick of say 1GB. Usually RAM issues cause post "Beep" codes, but sometimes it really freaks out the main board. You have 2GB and said (Modules)

Also if you have a video card added to motherboard where motherboard has integrated video available. Boot it without the video card installed and VGA cable to integrated video. 300 watts is borderline for most systems using expansion video cards. I suggest 450 watts minimum for any systems with video cards added, especially if gaming.Thank you for the reply.

Sorry about the confusion, I have 2 slots for memory sticks and both are occupied w/ 1GB each.
I will TRY removing one and see if there is a difference.
No audible beep codes from the system during any of these tests.

This computer does not have an independent video adapter card installed.  It is running off of the SVGA port on the system motherboard.

Thanks.If onboard video is dead, the computer will fail to startup.  Onboard video also uses shared RAM.  If one of the sticks is bad, computer won't start.  Since it does start occasionally, it's likely the onboard video chip or the RAM is on the way out.  On more recent machines, the video is integrated into the chipset which have fixed heatsinks.  Are those fixed heatsinks in place?  Some times they break the mounting TABS & the heatsinks fall off or are just loose.  What is the model number of the Compaq Presario?Good evening harpo

If you are still trying to figure what may be wrong  your PC.

I have had to re-cap alot of older HP/Compaq's

If you wish shut down the PC and unplug it. Open the side of it and look inside the PC and right around the CPU bracket you will see a lot of round cans (capacitors) if you look at the top of them you will see a "+" and should be flat if they are domed and maybe what looks like a fluid and looks crusty like this Than you found your problem.

This is more than likely the issue. I am not saying it is but i have seen this a lot on older HP's/ Compaq's

Good luck, Mike    Thank you for all the constructive advice.
The computer is a Compaq Presario SR5000.

The capacitors seem to be clean and flat on top.
The RAM sticks in this machine consist of one 1GB Samsung and 1GB Corsair.
When I removed the older of the two (Samsung), the CPU fan began to spin, the BIOS ran and I obtained the Ubuntu login screen.  I left the machine at this login screen for about one hour.  When I returned, the login screen was still waiting for my input.  I supplied my password, the screen went black with a white arrow pointer on screen (pointer was responsive to mouse movement).  However, remained at this black screen.
Re-booted a few times and obtained the same result.
Eventually, system started behaving as before with the CPU fan shutting down after a brief spin at start and no BIOS displayed to monitor.

The monitor is fine.  I am typing this response at the same monitor with a Dell Dimension 2400 connected.
I found the original PSU that was in this Compaq -- it was rated at 250watt output.
I currently have a 300watt PSU installed in this box.

Thanks again for your help!Hi Again

Do you get any beep codes?

You removed one the memory sticks try shutting it down and switch them around and see how it does. (please shut down pc first and unplug ac cord)

Do you have a spare Power supply I know you said you have a 300 watt in it now. 

But from the way you are talking it sounds like you have 1 of 3 items that are bad

MoBo (motherboard / systemboard)
bad power supply
Maybe bad ram it seems that after you removed one it started to act better

How this helpsThanks hartbeatmr.
When the computer attempts to start, there are no audible beep codes.
I have tried switching the RAM around and found that by leaving the newer Corsair RAM in the slot closest to the CPU, the CPU fan continued to run and I obtained the Ubuntu login window.  However, after a few rounds, even this arrangement resulted in the CPU fan spinning and stopping and no image to the monitor.

I had a spare 300watt PSU (I was given it by a friend who indicated it was operational).  When I installed this PSU, my monitor displayed garbled video as if it was not sending the correct frequency.

I have some spare video cards.
I might give that a try also.

Thanks for all your insight.A little additional information.
This morning the system booted with some hesitation and I was able to run updates to Ubuntu.
When I was asked to restart the system, the problems re-surfaced.

Video was working from the onboard SVGA port.

I removed both sticks of RAM and booted the system.  The result was no beep codes and the CPU fan behaving as before with no information on the monitor.
An interesting side note was that before I removed the RAM and booted the system, I noticed that the CAPS Lock and Scroll Lock lights on my keyboard were flashing.  Not sure if this sheds any additional light on this problem.

Thanks.Finally ---- the solution!!!
Apparently, the onboard video component of my mobo is on the way out.
I installed a PCI video card in the system and set the BIOS to utilize PCI video.

Everything is working and I am typing this response from the system.
Thanks, again to all who lending their expertise to walk me through the possible CAUSES. Quote from: harpo on July 24, 2012, 05:31:48 PM

Finally ---- the solution!!!
Apparently, the onboard video component of my mobo is on the way out.
I installed a PCI video card in the system and set the BIOS to utilize PCI video...Everything is working and I am typing this response from the system...
Quote from: Computer_Commando on July 23, 2012, 01:36:12 PM
...it's likely the onboard video chip or the RAM is on the way out...
PCI video card or PCI-e?
You can get a PCI-e graphics card for around $50.
Does this look like your motherboard?
Good Evening Harpo

Ok if you TOOK the memory out turned the PC and got no beep codes this is weird because your PC's factory MoBo has a built in speaker just for beep codes etc not for reg speaker use.

But here is a thought has this MoBo (motherboard) been replaced with a after market one. If you look around the outside of the CPU bracket do you see white silk-screened model number or maybe around or in-between the PCI slot(s) an example world be a MSI Z68A-G43 etc

Getting no beep codes is very weird, Other than your keyboard, mouse and monitor is nothing else connected? to eliminate any peripherals causing you an issue.   

I know you said that you acquired this unit but

Considering you got the PC with out a HD but If you have a extra (spare) hard drive did you try putting windows on the spare HD maybe your PC for what ever reason does not like Linux now I am not finding Linux drivers on HP site? but I don't know if the PC would work any better / longer with windows vs Ubuntu I have had great luck with Ubuntu myself.

Mike

  Hi Harpo

That is good news while i was finding / searching you posted that you are all good. That is great news.  Manufacturer's motherboard name: ECS 945GCT-HM
BTW, there is no Compaq Presario SR5000, it's SR5001 or 2 or 3, etc.To be fair the sticker he read may have said 5000 Series...
4870.

Solve : acer aspire m1620 no display?

Answer»

dont know what happen my cousin has been using this desktop for 4 years,and this is the 1st time she had this problem. before this no display happened she told me that display has been having problems before the no display probelm occured. the display seemed to be blinking,and after a month of not using the desktop,the no display happened. ive tried to disconnect and reconnect RAM sata connector to different cnnectors and removing cmos and replacing it with my cmos which is 2month old. ive also do not here no bios beep when the pc is turned on. what do you think is the problem? please help me fix this pc unitThis sounds like possible video card failure, but lets continue:

You said you have already disconnected and reconnected (our word for this: re-seating) the RAM and other hardware.
Is the video card a detachable card? Have you attempted to reseat this as well?

It might SEEM simple, but you might also check the connection on the back of the monitor itself. Often, the cable for the video or the power to the monitor might come loose.
Do other monitors work on this computer? If you have an EXTRA monitor, it would be well worth the effort to see if the problem might be specific to the monitor rather than the computer/graphics card.

Let us know! Looking forward to hearing from you and assisting further if needed. sorry for the late reply, i forgot to add, that this one is already using its on board VGA. Good evening

If you are having issue with the ONBOARD video

#1... Have you try another monitor ( just for TESTING )

#2... Have you tried UPDATING the video drivers

#3.. On the plus side for your PC if the onboard video is bad a PCI-x video card are very reasonably priced from about 40.00 on up.

But just as suggested in the other posts i would try a different monitor. Maybe from a second PC or a friend my let you barrow one.

Please come back and let us know how you make out. Mike

4871.

Solve : Gaming Monitor?

Answer» HEY y'all. I'm buying a new monitor for GAMING as it's not ideal to play 1080p on a 46" LED-TV.

Was kind of wondering what I could get for around 340 Euros ($412).

What I've found so far are these:

http://www.webhallen.com/se-sv/hardvara/122079-asus_27_ve276q_displayport_hogtalare_hdmi_dvi_p-i-p_2ms

ASUS 27" VE276Q - 280 Euro

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.webhallen.com/se-sv/hardvara/157548-acer-gd245hqabid_23.6_wide_tft_120hz_black

ACER 23.6"Wide GD245HQ-abid - 340 Euro

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.inet.se/produkt/2204819/acer-27-tft-s271hlabid-led

ACER 27" S271HLABID-LED - 272 Euro

----------------------------------------------------------------------------I switched from 24" LCD Widescreen to 20" LED widescreen for gaming. 24" was way too wide and the 20" LED Flat Screen for $89 (USD) was a good deal thru www.newegg.com a few months ago. I bought 2 of them, 1 for me and 1 for my wife. I play LOTS of games on it and it has good refresh and sharp details as well as COLOR quality is very VIBRANT on LED vs LCD. Brand was HANNS-G. Saw good feedback on the display so I decided to take a chance with that brand. So far so good!
4872.

Solve : windows stop loading when restart only?

Answer»

OS Version: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate, 32 bit
Processor: Intel(R) Celeron(R) CPU 430 1.80GHz, x64 Family 6 Model 22 Stepping 1
Processor Count: 1
RAM:1.00 gb (894 Mb usable)
Graphics Card: VIA Chrome9 HC IGP Family WDDM, 128 Mb
Hard Drives: C: Total - 39102 MB, Free - 20593 MB;
Motherboard: BIOSTAR Group, P4M900-M7 FE

When i shut down my pc,it shuts down with no problem,but when i restart it,windows begins to load it and suddenly it stops.I need to turn off my pc for 5 MINS,then it loads windows correctly.I can never restart my pc.

The problem is not about windows 7,i had just change from xp.I was having the same problem with windows xp.Everything else is good in my pc,just i'm having this problem.

Please help. It's either the HDD failing ...or the PSU.
Those would be the 1st 2 components i would check...

To test the HDD DLoad and run the long test on the Free diagnostics from the HDD manuf. site...
To test the PSU borrow a known good one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...can u provide me with a link so that i can test if my hard drive disk is good?
Run hard drive diagnostics: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Make sure, you select tool, which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the PROGRAM, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso TYPE, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "Write image file to disc" option), to make the CD bootable.
For Toshiba hard drives, see here: http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=ServicesSupport/FujitsuDrivesUSandCanada/SoftwareUtilities#diagnostic
No.

Because i'm not currently sitting in front of the laptop and i therefore have no idea who manuf. the HDD...I think Sea Tools for DOS will work on non Sagate drives
http://www.seagate.com/gb/en/support/downloads/seatools/
Put it on a CD, USB or floppy.
Warning. Sea Tools for DOS has the potential to write on your drive. So you may want the windows version first.
http://www.seagate.com/gb/en/support/downloads/seatools/

4873.

Solve : Advice regarding installing more memory?

Answer»

Hewlett Packard
Compaq Presario SR 1000 SR1639UK
Product EK350AA-ABU
Microsoft Window XP
Home Edition
Version 2002, Service Pack 3
2.19Ghz, 1.00GB of RAM

ACPI Uniprocessor PC
AMD Athlon ™ 64 Processor 3700+
NVIDIA GeForce 6200SE TurboCache™


Hello, I wish to upgrade my PC with more RAM.  Understand that upgrading RAM is  easy.
Can any one guide me on how to carry this out.
Is it worth it CONSIDERING the make and model??
Travel to Crucial.com and run the online scanner...
You don't have to buy it from them but it will tell you ecxactly what type and how much it will take...
After pricing it out only you can decide if it's worth it or not...Good evening meaner02

Patio is correct but just in case you couldn't find what you are looking for

http://www.crucial.com/upgrade/HP+-+Compaq-memory/Presario/Presario+SR1639UK-upgrades.html

And considering you are running XP and more than likely it is 32 bit so the OS will only see a max of 3 to 3.5 gig's of ram and your PC can take up to 4 gig's (DDR PC3200 this memory is considered DDR1) and you should have 4 slots.

So for instance If you do install (4) 1 gig sticks would equal in xp only 3 to 3.5 GIGS.

Hope this helps, Mike  Just wanted to mention... Crucial's Tool works well 99% of the time, but on my Motherboard it says I have 4 slots available for 8GB Maximum at 2GB per slot, and my Motherboard only has 2 slots so it maxes out at 4GB = 2 x 2GB Sticks. It works well for knowing what you need for Ram, but I'd look inside and count how many RAM slots you have if you plan on fully populating 4 slots, as for you might find only 2 slots like my Biostar motherboard even though Crucial DETECTS 4 slots.

This is probably the motherboards memory controller reporting back that it can address 4 Ram slots, even though only 2 slots are available. My motherboard is a smaller Biostar motherboard rectangular and not square, so some features are lacking from it such as PCIe 1x or 2x slot. I only have a single PCIe 16x slot and 2 PCI slots and everything is populated tight on the smaller motherboard.

On a similar note there was a HARDWARE tool, might have been Sisoft Sandra that use to be good for hardware detection and reporting etc, and it DETECTED on my HP Pavilion a long time ago that I had an AGP slot available for video card upgrade. I bought video card and went to install it and HP decided to stuff my system with a motherboard that was missing the AGP slot. Looking at the motherboard you see the location and thru-holes filled with solder but no AGP slot to install a video card into. This aggrivated me and I sold the computer less than 3 months owning it for 1/2 what I paid for it new, as for Games dont run well on integrated video or video cards on PCI slot.

Its always best to verify before buying components that there is a location to stuff them!May be a good idea to contact them with a quick e-mail so they can update their database...Yes some time ago i too had exactly that issue after a Crucial scan. I did send them a message which was gratefully acknowledged. I do refer people to them but they are NOT infallible.truenorthNoone is infallible...
That's why contacting them is the right thing to do...it improves a Free service they offer...

4874.

Solve : computer hard shutdowns for some unknown reason?

Answer»

I'm having problems with my comp. It's my first build so I have no CLUE why it's shutting down on me. I don't believe it is a over heating problem. I've replaced my motherboard and RAM thing that was the problem, but the problem still ensues. I will turn on my pc and it will work for 15 min or less and then shutdown. I was thinking of replaces the CPU, but I'm CONCERNED that it will not solve the problem. If anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated.

My specs are:
CPU i7-950
Mobo EVGA X58 classified 3
RAM G-Skill Ripjaws 12 gb
Graphics card evga gtx 460
Power supply Antec 850 watt
Hardrive seagate barracuda 7200.12 500gb

I'm still kind of new at this. I know very little when it comes to pc's.Good morning importedalien

Nice SET up you have here but lets see if we can better help you.

Now I am not being a wise guy but you did connect the extra power plug into the motherboard not just the 24pin atx connector.

That will cause the system not to work.

Did you try to boot the system with say 1 stick of ram?

During boot and in windows is running is the CPU fan running - Is the fan a Intel box set fan (ie retail cpu set) that has CPU and fan together. If this was a Intel fan did the protective film /cover get removed from the bottom of the heatsink? before placement.

Did the 1 or 2 (8pin) power connectors get plugged into the video card?

Very rarely are Intel CPU's defective, when the PC shuts off does it reboot or just stay off?

Also as a test take the MoBo out of the case set it on a flat surface use the antistatic bad the MoBo came in and put it under the board. Now plug in the video card, CPU and memory and hard drive. Now connect mouse and keyboard and monitor to the board and fire it up does SIT stay running if so the MoBo is shorting out on the computer case some how.

Well please let us know how you make out or if you want just send a PM, Mike     My initial guess is heat or power supply. Let's rule out software - please boot to safe mode - does the same thing happen? Quote from: hartbeatmr on July 22, 2012, 03:15:16 AM

or if you want just send a PM, Mike   

Do we really want people setting up private help channels?


Okay, new member - doesn't understand how our forum works.

hartbeatmr, we prefer all topics be handled on the forum for all to see and learn from. Most support forums frown on suggesting support via PM. Thanks.Heatbeatmr: I've done pretty much everything you asked. I used the one stick of RAM. I was using a CoolMaster heatsink, but I thought that might of been the problem so I switched to the stock Intel version. I've also replace the thermal compound. I plugged in 2 power conectors in the graphics card. When it powers off it stays off, all the led lights on the motherboard stay on though. I haven't tested out on the anti static bad yet, ill try that tomorrow.

 Allan: It shutdown in safe mode, it will also shutdown in BIOS. I could be wrong but I don't think its over heating. I've cleaned it out fairly well ( used air can on heatsink and outer fans ). I have not cleaned the power supply though, does the power supply overheating cause problems for computer? The LED lights on motherboard stays on. So initially I don't believe it the power supply.

I'm using my phone as my only source of internet, so I do apologize for any random word that doesn't fit into sentence. Auto-correct is kind of a pain.My computer build also experienced this weird sort of issue where it would power off/reboot intermittently. I was able to DETERMINE the CPU power cord to the motherboard was not as snug as it should be- pushed it in, and haven't had issues since.Everything seems to be put in right. It's worked for about a year now and now it shutdown. Quote from: importedalien on July 22, 2012, 01:21:44 AM
I'm having problems with my comp. It's my first build so I have no clue why it's shutting down on me...
This statement seemed to imply it was new.  You now say it's been working for a year?  No other changes recently?
If it shuts down in BIOS, it could be the PSU, CPU cooling fan is stuck. graphics card, or motherboard.

Quote from: importedalien on July 22, 2012, 09:42:34 AM
... Allan: It shutdown in safe mode, it will also shutdown in BIOS. I could be wrong but I don't think its over heating. I've cleaned it out fairly well ( used air can on heatsink and outer fans ). I have not cleaned the power supply though, does the power supply overheating cause problems for computer? The LED lights on motherboard stays on. So initially I don't believe it the power supply...
If PSU cooling fan is not operating, it will quickly overheat & shutdown.  Lights on motherboard don't mean a lot, unless you know what the lights indicate. Quote from: Computer_Commando on July 22, 2012, 01:25:27 PM
This statement seemed to imply it was new. 
well, he/she did say first build and not new build. Quote from: BC_Programmer on July 22, 2012, 01:34:33 PM
well, he/she did say first build and not new build.
True, but, nevertheless, it indicates something has recently failed.Originally it would shutdown when playing games or watching netflix. My friend told me it was overheating. So I cleaned it out, now he's not to certain what it is. Again I have replaced my motherboard and RAM, so two new pieces. The only thing I can think of is either the power supply or the CPU.Light a light bulb, CPU's pretty much work or they don't.  There is no middle ground.Good evening

      OK I am sorry. I miss-understood you I thought this as a new build / First build. But with this PC in use for year I don't know if it would be shorting out on the case know that I know the age of the PC.

      I do agree with others here even knowing Antec makes a great product the PS can be failing / over heating. With all your components you may not realize how many watts your rig needs

This is just an est of wattage only to start the PC this is not including when things are getting ramped up. 
Your CPU 125+ watts
MoBo will be using some also like maybe 40-100 watts for chip sets etc
Video card will be about 160 watts
Each fan about 5 Watts
Reg PCI card(s) 10 -20 watts each
Hard drive will be about 8 - 15 watts maybe a little more if under heavy load
For Ram I always figured 5 - 10 per stick
CD and or DVD drives will be about 10 - 20 watts for each drive

So it does add up as far as how much your rig will use every time it starts.

But like in some of the post here Intel CPU's normally don't go bad. In about 12 years I have had to replace a hand full of bad Intel CPU's that may sound like a lot but in the number of systems I have built / worked on / deployed that is really a very low % of bad ones. 
4875.

Solve : Advice on how to set up Dual Monitors?

Answer»

Hewlett Packard Compaq Presario SR 1000
Microsoft Window XP
Home Edition
Version 2002, Service Pack 3
2.19Ghz, 1.00GB of RAM

ACPI Uniprocessor PC
AMD Athlon ™ 64 Processor 3700+
NVIDIA GeForce 6200SE TurboCache™


Hello,

I wish to connect a second monitor to my PC desktop.
My current monitor is a LCD, Plug and Play monitor, manufacturer: standard monitor type, model WJ1780PI, D-12055 - one STRAIGHT wire, connecting to a VGA port near the bottom.

There is also another VGA port, situated vertical near the USB slots. However I tried taking out the VGA cable and slotting it into the vertical slot and it came up that there is no signal?

What would be the best WAY to get around this. Would a VGA splitter work??
The VGA port at the bottom is onboard or integrated video.  The one on the vertical slot is a separate graphics card.  The existence of a separate card usually turns the onboard off.  You cannot use them simultaneously.  The BIOS determines which video take precedence.Its best to have a video card that has 2 ports for dual displays, although sometimes both on board (integrated) and expansion card can work side by side as was the case with a small form factor HP DC5000 with single VGA out GeForce 4 MX440 64MB video card stuffed into PCI slot. Was able to have dual displays GeForce 4 MX 440 WORKING along side INTEL Integrated GPU  on Windows XP Pro SP3.

I'd look for a video card upgrade, guessing your expansion slot in that system is AGP given its age. There are lots of cheap AGP 8x video cards out there with dual display support. Last one I bought was a 7600GT AGP 8X with 256MB DDR2 memory with dual display 1 VGA and 1 DVI and it COST me about $60 2 years ago. Since then the GPU fan died as is common with many Geforce cards I have owned. Seems as though they are poor quality fans or maybe because I run my computer too much they never have much off time and wear out.

4876.

Solve : I need to combine 2 cpu's?

Answer»

I have 2 HP Pavilion a6217c PC.  Windows Vista. They are identical. One has a bad fan, the other the CD/DVD drive does not read or burn anymore.  I have had to use both machines, so I would like to be able to use/access the hard drives from both once the process of combining them is finished.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Components seem inexpensive to correct and have 2 good running machines. If you still need two functioning work stations I'd just FIX it the correct way for about $30 in parts. If you wanted to make 1 good machine of 2 systems thats easy, I'd just swap the CD/DVD drive into the one that has the better fan and save the other for parts, and maybe even install the 2nd HD for extra storage capacity or even a mirror RAID setup.Only question I have now is in regards to the second HD. I could use as much guidance on this part as possible.  I have switched the other parts and now just need to do this.

Thanks again.Should be able to disconnect the power and IDE or SATA communications cable from rear of drives, they pop off, do not twist or rock the connector off or you could damage the HD or Cable. Remove 4 retailing screws that hold drive in place. *Some systems require the face panel of the computer to be removed and there are ejector clips that hold the HD into a track, then the HD is removed through the front and replaced through the front. While OTHERS have plenty of room to remove the drive by carefully pulling it out of the 3.5" bay towards the inside center of the case paying attention not to hit the memory RAM sticks that are often near by. Sometimes the power cable to the motherboard is also in the way and had to be unplugged if there is not enough slack in it to bend the cable out of the path of the HD being removed. Some systems even have 3.5" bay trays that are removable by removing 1 screw and sliding them out or allowing for them to then swing from a pivot point 90 degrees allowing easier access of hard drive swapping or replacement.
Also to note, sometimes you will need to take the opposite side panel off of your tower to gain access to the 2 screws opposite side that hold the hard drive into the 3.5" bay. Be sure you are performing all of this unplugged so that if you drop a screw onto the motherboard its not a smoke show, as for when powered the motherboard has power to it and its ready for the power on signal to boot. While most of the motherboard is disabled (off) power is still present. And for safe ESD, its BEST to touch the frame of the computer tower first before TOUCHING any computer parts to equalize your bodys extra electron count with that of the computer tower chasis, so that the discharge is a safe discharge and your discharged before reaching into the case.

Good Luck

4877.

Solve : Thermal Shutdown with normal temperature?

Answer»

Hi all,

I am running an Intel Atom motherboard E74516-001. It is one of the early 64 bit dual-core ATOMS with low power consumption, and no fan required - just has a large heatsink.

Today, after a couple of years of running fine, it just decided it is not going to boot. I was able to get into BIOS a couple of times and the hardware monitor says it is running at about 33 degrees Celcius, which to me does not seem to be hot enough to be triggering a shutdown, but when I try to boot Windows it always shuts down within a few seconds with an error saying that the thermal protection has been tripped. Now it won't even stay on long enough to get into BIOS before shutting down.

Is there any hope for this motherboard, or is it to the recycle bin for this one?

Thanks!No. Rather that junk it - ruin it!
I mean that if you are going to toss it, take a chance and try to  fix it. Locate the thermal shutdown sensor and replace it with something.

But if the sensor is in the CPU, you can't fix it.

What did you use for thermal compound? If you used toothpaste,iIt has to be replaced every three years.Toothpaste...here we go again...

You may want to try replacing the CMOS battery for about 4 Bucks...
I've seen them give the Temp sensors fits when they are weakining.Thanks for the tip Patio (long time no see - busy elsewhere...)

Sound like worth trying. I'll give it a try.

I wondered about corrupted BIOS too and was thinking a BIOS UPDATE might help, if I can keep it running long enough.

Sometimes it will stay running in BIOS even though booting Windows kills it. I've been able to keep it running on Hardware Monitor for 24 hours now (steady temps - 35C CPU/45C Remote), hoping there was just some corrosion or bad connection that might benefit from being burned in again.

Tomorrow I'll come back to it and try a new battery if it still won't stay up.Good to see you as well...hope all is well.

Flashing the BIOS IMHO should be a last resort.I got the new CMOS battery, but I am still getting the thermal shutdown and the associated message from BIOS telling me that is what happened on reboot.

This really has me stumped. The logical thing would be that a temperature sensor has failed and is telling BIOS the wrong temperature. But in BIOS, the Hardware Monitor SHOWS healthy temperatures, which should mean that there is not a bad sensor.

The other thing would be the wrong shutdown temp in BIOS. I have other motherboards with a better BIOS that allow you to choose the shutdown temp, but this little Intel cheapie doesn't have any option like that.

Hardware monitor shows pretty steady temps of 32 to 35 Celsius for the CPU and 42-45 C for the remote sensor.

The computer sometimes will run BIOS before shutting down, but if it does, it always shuts down when it starts Windows. Today I started a completely stone cold computer and actually got to the desktop before it shut down, but once the computer has been running, it shuts down within a second or two of the Starting Windows message, and the longer it runs, the less willing it is to even keep BIOS running.

The large factory heatsink doesn't seem loose at all. I talked to a local computer shop, and they didn't know anything about Intel Atom motherboards and were insisting that I install a CPU fan. Not much help since the CPU is showing cool temps anyway.

I'm stumped!At this point your need to prove it is a real hardware issue. When windows is in idel mode, the temps are close to what you would have running just DOS or any system with light load.

It would seem there is something in your windows start up that is over loading the CPU. But that is highly unlikely.

Try this.
1. Boot up just in Safe mode and seem what happens.
2. Or, boot in command prompt and wait.
3. Boot from a CD or DVD with some kind of diagnostic program. Maybe a memory test.

The object here is to seem if the Windows GUI is a factor. Heavy video work can run up the temps. But that could only cause overheating if the video driers were really messed up.

When  was the last virus scan?
I would suspect it to be thermal compound broken down ( dry ) on either between Heatsink and CPU or Bridge controller. If you have a hair dryer that has a cool setting you can see if you can blow cool air across the heatsinks to keep it running longer to troubleshoot -or- if you have a can of canned air you can always flip the can over inverted and spray liquid canned air against a heatsink super chilling it and see if one of the heatsinks either CPU or Bridge cause it to run longer when chilled. You then could determine location of the hot spot.

Working for Allen Bradley/Rockwell Automation in the 90s early 2000's, as an ET, we use to go thru lots and lots of canned air flipping cans inverted and super chilling components that were suspected of being a trouble spot under thermal conditions. We also had one of those IR thermometers, but that wont show you if you have an issue with heat exchanging between components burried under heatsinks. Chilling was the method that proved well for us there especially if you wanted to localize the issue to a component or smaller area of board when O-scopes and trouble codes weren't good enough to pinpoint issue.

Canned air works way better for localizing the problem vs hairdryer which would just blow cool air across a wider area. This will let you know if its truely an overheat issue!

* Be careful not to spray your fingers with the canned air when inverted it can injure you with frostbite and  cold burns to skin etc, where your skin turns white and becomes chalky ( Did that once to fingertip by accident ). ITS COLD!

Excellent Tip...nice post David...patio you are too funny ......toothpaste that's a good one hadn't heard that in a while.........gjmayWell, the strangest thing just happened. Anyone who can give a scientific explanation must be a genius.

As I was contemplating whether or not I could get the heat sink off without ruining the motherboard (it's rather large on an Atom), my other computer wouldn't start up too, as in nothing happened when pushing the power button. I imagined a dead button and a big headache changing it, but before I tore it down, I thought I'd look for simpler solutions. I swapped the power cord between it and the computer discussed in this thread, and the computer in this thread started up and has been running about 6 hours now, including some document scanning and printing I needed to do. Right now the hard drive is blazing like crazy, probably installing Windows updates it's behind on.

Could it be that a flakey A/C cord supplied unreliable power that confused the temperature sensor? Or the BIOS? Or is there another unrelated reason it started up today? Who knows!Pretty bizarre i'd say...but a flakey power source can cause all sorts of strange RESULTS so i imagine it is possible...

How are the Temps looking BTW ? ?Here they are. I've never posted attachments before, so I don't know if they will show up online or have to be downloaded.

I am curious why it shows 4 cores. I thought the Atom D510 was dual core, as Wikipedia also states. Also I thought it was an upgrade to the Celeron I had in there before, but the Windows Experience Index (3.0) is lower than the Celeron.

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin] Quote from: jkolak on July 28, 2012, 02:41:17 AM

Could it be that a flakey A/C cord supplied unreliable power that confused the temperature sensor? Or the BIOS? Or is there another unrelated reason it started up today? Who knows!

Bad power cords can cause all kinds of instability problems. USUALLY the cause is poor contact between the connectors at the ends and either the wall outlet or the power inlet on the computer PSU. Another cause might be bady made connections inside the connectors. (Often found with cheap cords) You can often see blackening or other signs of overheating.

The Atom D510 is a 'hyperthreading' processor, which means that each core can emulate 2 cores. Thus the 2 real cores appear as 4.

Those Temps look fine...you should be good to go...
4878.

Solve : Cooling fan works too hard?

Answer»

Hello:

My O.S. is Dell dimension 3000, win xp, home ed., sp3

I recently re-installed windows and some applications so now my computer works very well and FAST - BUT.........
the cooling fan is always on and RUNS very hard. I am wondering if anyone can explain what the fan is trying to do and why it runs so hard these days.  The CPUID hardware monitor app. shows: 96° F right now and the fan is blowing pretty hard.  There was a time when the fan was much quieter. The computer seems to be working just about as good as it did when I re-installed things and many virus scans have turned up no malicious problems. When I re-installed windows, I cleaned out the inside of the tower so I don't believe the fan is trying to make up for accumulated dirt in the tower.  Also, I downloaded a Bios updated driver from Dell and installed it but no change in the fan speed.  I'd like to understand what is going on with the fan and, if it's a problem, fix it soon.

Thank you for your help here,
Jim    Good evening jimrich and WELCOME to CH

When you cleaned out the inside of the PC did the shroud around the CPU / Case fan get closed back down the one I am TALKING about should look like this

Plus when you cleaned the PC are both green clips in place on both sides of the heatsink if the heat sink is not right on top the CPU it will call for the fans to run at top speed

Mike  +1 Hartbeatmr's post, also:

Did you install all appropriate drivers starting with the Chipset drivers?
Some motherboards require a driver to CONTROL the fan speeds inside Windows and/or to control the processor speed to help reduce heat output.

4879.

Solve : Epson lx300 printer is not working?

Answer»

Sir, I would like to ask how can fix this epson lx300 printer.When i turn it on all the lights flashes and the head moves from left to right and it stops.Good afternoon shaikh and welcome to CH

#1... If this printer is the DOT matrix / Impact style a lot of times on a hard ERROR and most of the time the "head" is bad.

This issue you are having is not exactly as I found on Epson WEB site but does make since & here is that info "This indicates that the printer is out of paper. Make SURE the paper release lever is in the correct position, then install the paper and try printing.

#2... If this printer is a "tracker" feed please look around the feed / roll to make sure there is no scraps of paper.

#3... From what you are describing you have a bad head / micro switch maybe.

#4... Are you using PLAIN feed option (plain paper) or are you using tracker feed tear off paper

#5... If you are using tracker feed paper is the paper multi part (2 or 3 layer) or single layer.

#6... Is the printer beeping as well as flashing the lights.

Here is a link to Epson's web site in-case you need the user manual, tech brief, product information. http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&infoType=Doc&oid=14245&prodoid=8237 

Please come back and let us know how you are making out, MIKE

4880.

Solve : installing a dedicated graphics card?

Answer»

Hi folks,

so, I've bought a new graphics card  ( http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4254#sp ) and I'm gonna install it, probably tonight or next month  lol.
The guy at the shop had a quick LOOK at my MB specs and said ok.

Till now I have only an on-borad graphics chip.

Two things come to mind now:

1. Yesterday I went into the BIOS and had a look under the "advanced" tab. The entry "video memory" ...is greyed out!
I assume that this will no longer be the case after I've inserted the new card and that I'll then be ABLE to disable the onboard chip in the BIOS.

2. Will Ubuntu 11.04 auto-install the driver after that? The card came with a CD that says WIndows Xp, Vista blahblah...

Thanks for any tips folks.



  just seen that the card specs say "PCIe 2.0" ...will this work with my normal PCIe slot (see attachment)?

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]If your system was running a GeForce say 6150SE or any other flavor of integrated GPU that is nVidia and you upgrade to this card, Ubuntu will 99.999% of the time be HAPPY since it will use same driver. However if you have say Intel Graphics 945 Extreme etc and then pop in a nVidia graphics card I have seen some occasions where you get a black screen or messed up display. Ubuntu has gotten better with HARDWARE changes, but it can still run into issues.

As long as your motherboard has the full length PCIe slot closest to the CPU your all set. If your lacking this PCIe 16x slot the largest PCIe slot for normal motherboards then you wont be able to use this video card. A quick look inside computer will confirm this as long as you dont get confused between PCIe and AGP. Guessing your motherboard is modern to have PCIe vs older AGP slot. Quote from: sandra on July 26, 2012, 06:02:42 AM

just seen that the card specs say "PCIe 2.0" ...will this work with my normal PCIe slot (see attachment)?
Please define what you mean by "normal PCIe slot".  We don't know what your motherboard is.Dave. yes, my on-board is a GeForce 6100 nForce 405

Kommando: my Mb is an ASUSTek M2NS-NVM 8see attachment)

the card specs say PCIe 2.0, but the Mb specs say PCIe ... that's what made me wonder...





[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]  A quantum leap away from Computer-Tardedness.
I inserted the card, after removing some gunk and a living spider  from the inside.
And switched back on and now the graphics, i think, have a slightly better look.



And i no longer get this "no ideal resolution" window on starting up.

I didn't have to disable anything in the BIOS.

Next time, I'm gonna install a new sound card 

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]
4881.

Solve : Will more ram help me??

Answer»

Current specs
W7
4gb ddr3 dual channel corsair ram
Amd phenom II x2 3,2ghz dualcore processor
Radeon 5670 hd 1gb ddr5 gpu

Trynna play swtor, I'm above requirements, i run
On low resolution at max settings,
And it looks good and I get about 25-50fps
But when Im in fleet and other random placeS, the game will
Jerk for a second and drop to 19gps then 50 then 39...etc

How to stop this?
I set my paging file to 100gb so I have like 107gb virtual
Memory according to specccy
And 70% physical memory usage.
So will adding more ram help?
I also use diskkeeper tools to keep my hdd fast.
And am malwayre free

TyIf your computer is a generic or custom built machine we need to know the model number of the motherboard

If your computer is store bought or generic then we need to know the model of computer..

Minimum requirements for game / Recommended requirements, age of computer, how often do you use it, do you use it just for gaming, type of connection, do you have anti-virus running in the BACKGROUND, are you running other programs while you play, cpu usage, memory consumption etc..

The more information you can provide us the better we can assist you, however not all computers can be upgraded beyond its current capacity.
What MBoard ? ?Which version of Windows 7 are you running 32 or 64 bit. You might find that your only using 3GB of Ram if you have Windows 7 32-bit installed, in which to address more than 3GB you have to upgrade to Windows 7 64 bit. Seen some people out there get bit by this before where they buy a name brand computer and it claims it has 4GB RAM and then the OS is Windows 7 32-bit in which not all 4GB is able to be used and performance lacks.Good evening STC

all of the posts here are correct but I also have a couple of suggestions & a couple of questions. You have given us here 80% of your specs but in order to help any more a bit more info would help.

Questions
#1... How big is your power supply (VIDEO card may be starving for more juice)
#2... What MoBo (motherboard model) or computer model (i.e like a Compaq SR5001 etc) (MSI-7529 etc)
#3... What bit version of windows: Windows 7 32 bit or Windows 7 64 bit (Windows version like Home prem or Basic makes no difference)   
#4... With the varying frame rates: is this on-line game play or local (only being played on PC against the game it self) I don't know if the game has a local game play option. There has been server (swtor) issues while playing game on line.
#5... Have you adjusted other options in the game, anti-aliasing, shadowing etc.
#6... You using a CRT or LCD if you have a lower END LCD you can get ripping / tearing etc this may not / should not affect frame rates but can and will affect the image on the screen. 

Suggestions
#1... Is there a patch available there may be a fix that covers multi issues of game play.
#2... If you are running a 32 bit of W7 like stated in other posts even if you have 4 gig's the OS will only use / access is 3 to 3.5 gig's max for the OS to use take advantage of 4+ gig's is to use a 64 bit of W7.
#3... I do under stand you adjusting the windows page file, but you really should let windows handle that. Changing the page file YEARS ago was wanted / needed sometimes but with 3 to 4 gig's or more it really may not be needed but in some cases can help . (the page file basically a swap area (INCREASING and decreasing when needed) of windows in-case the computer runs out of physical memory)
#4... Checking the manufacture site forums there may be thing they have run across that we may not be aware of. Here is the link http://www.swtor.com/community/
#5... if this issue happens only when online playing make sure your firewall / ports are configured for it.
#6... Have just as few as possible programs running in the back ground as possible.
#7... If this PC is a custom PC and say the MoBo model is "MSI-7529" etc there maybe a BIOS update to make the OS see the correct amount of ram. Even if you installed 4 gig's the OS may be using / seeing a lower amount. 

Please come back and let us know what the fix was, Thank you Mike 

Run this instead for a complete information of your PC.
Download Speccy and then install the program.  To post and publish a snapshot of your PC.
. In the Menu bar, click File -> Publish Snapshot
. Click Yes > then Copy to Clipboard
. On your next reply, right-click on a empty space and click Paste on reply box then click Post.

Not sure anyone noticed...but he has yet to return. Quote

Not sure anyone noticed...but he has yet to return.
Abducted again?! Did not notice the date until you posted. The Alien Abductions are way up compared to this time last year...
4882.

Solve : Help - loading SoundMAX on Asus M2N-SLI MB?

Answer»

Hello...
This problem just happened on an XP machine that has been working fine for years - until just now.

Machine:
DIY, AMD Athlon 2.01, 2GB, Asus M2N-SLI MB, WinXP-2, GeForce 7600GT video, 250GB HD, on board HD audio.

I installed an M-Audio Delta 2496 audio board to support a ham radio panadapter. All was working fine. Normal sound through computer speakers/headset. The panadapter display had a small artifact, and I started chasing that down. I deleted/installed the M-Audio driver several times. I did the same with the SoundMAX software/drivers just in case they were involved. Then the problem began...

Problem:
With M-Audio board removed and drivers deleted, I cannot get SoundMAX to function. In the Control Panel sound applet, the Audio/Voice tabs show a greyed out "No Playback Devices." This is the same regardless of how many times I delete/reinstall SoundMAX, reboot the computer, etc. However, there is a SoundMAX icon in Control Panel. When the icon is clicked, a "small" SoundMAX panel appears that cannot be expanded to show the program's various sound controls/etc. On this small panel there is a wizard to test sound to the speakers. It works: noise comes out of the speakers. That's it. Nothing more. Other programs that have a sound output all throw an error saying some VERSION of "no sound capability."

I reloaded XP just in case: nothing. Device Manager says that the HD sound with SoundMAX is operating properly. I've checked out the MB bios parameters, and nothing has changed. Several months ago I wiped the HD and reinstalled XP and all programs, everything. Clean machine has been working great up to this point. I'm stumped.

Sure hope someone has some insight on this one so that I don't have to wipe the HD and reinstall everything. Thanks.

...robertGood evening Niky828 and welcome to CH

Did you try going to Asus web site and download the latest audio drivers for XP? for the motherboard.

Please keep in mind when updating drivers that the current one (sound drivers) should be removed first then if asked reboot and then install the new one you just download and install it.

Yes even if the drivers are corrupt you can still see the icon in the systray in the corner by the clock.

Sometimes soundmax drivers can be finicky    Unfortunately, new/different/old drivers make no difference. I even spent $40 on a "driver updater" that was so-so at best. Besides, I have installed the same drivers any number of times to GOOD effect. The problem persists. This is a problem at the operating system level; some SORT of "switch," perhaps in the registry, has been set wrong. Any other ideas? Thanks.

...robert
The problem you may have is within the hidden devices view on your device manager. See this link. Make sure to create a restore point first. The COMMAND set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1 is explained here. Good luck.Jason...

Bingo! A bit sketchy at first, but followed the instructions on the first link, and got everything BACK to normal. Many thanks. You saved me a lot of cash and heartache. Best to you.

...robertThanks for coming back also and sharing the solution worked for you.

4883.

Solve : Setup did not find any hard disk drives installed - installing new HD?

Answer»

Computer: HP xw4400 that was given to me without a hard drive. I PURCHASED a new 1 TB Western Digital SATA hard drive and installed it into the computer.

When I select the setup options, I can see the hard drive listed in the menu, but when I try to install Windows XP from my disk, I get the message that "Setup did not FIND any hard disk drives installed". I searched this topic in this forum and read that the new HD must be formatted using a boot disk from a floppy drive. I don't have a floppy drive. Is there anything else I can do? I've never done this before, so I'm totally new to it.A couple of options:
 
http://news.softpedia.com/news/Install-Windows-XP-On-SATA-Without-a-Floppy-F6-47807.shtml

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/72185-sata-drivers-slipstream-into-windows-xp-cd.htmlAre the SATA ports enabled in the BIOS? truenorthTruenorth, how can I tell if the SATA ports are enabled in the BIOS?

Edit - Is that where it says Primary SATA controller > Enable? If so, it is enabled.Allan, I read and understood the directions provided in the links you posted,  but I have been searching and reading for hours trying to figure out what SATA controller drivers to use. I apologize for not knowing what might be obvious to some, but where do I find the drivers? I found drivers specific to the xw 4400 here,  and some others here, but I have no idea what to look for or what to use. Am I looking at the right place? Are there certain search TERMS I should be using? The numbers on the motherboard say (copyright) 2006 HPDC PCB FAB REV 1.06.Yes that was what i was refering to.How many SATA ports do you have on the motherboard? You might want to try a different one if you have more than one.Ususally there are at least 2.In SATA the sequence order starts at "0" and "1" is actually #2 and soforth if there are more than 2. truenorthdon't worry about WHETHER the sata ports are enabled - 99.9% they are

Go here: http://www.proposedsolution.com/solutions/how-to-find-your-sata-drivers/
On the xw400 you can go in the BIOS and set the SATA controller to IDE emulation mode, and then the XP installer disk should see the hard drive. Just don't change it back after Windows is installed.

Quote from: Salmon Trout on July 24, 2012, 03:49:01 PM

On the xw400 you can go in the BIOS and set the SATA controller to IDE emulation mode, and then the XP installer disk should see the hard drive. Just don't change it back after Windows is installed.


Thanks ST - didn't know that. Quote from: Salmon Trout on July 24, 2012, 03:49:01 PM
On the xw400 you can go in the BIOS and set the SATA controller to IDE emulation mode, and then the XP installer disk should see the hard drive. Just don't change it back after Windows is installed.

Thanks! That did the trick. I noticed the different options, but weren't sure what they were for.
4884.

Solve : Pc wont finish booting?

Answer»

After cleaning a very dirty pc for a friend, the pc will not boot.  It begins, the fans run for about 1 minute then stop.  Only power unit fan continues to run.  There are no BEEPS, hd is running, cd and dvd roms are powered, but no video at all.  Switched to another video CARD and same thing.  I removed and replaced RAM and CPU. I am stuck and would appreciate help.  Thanx ahead of time.Did you suck out any jumpers? Seen this before where an important jumper gets sucked out and you have to then verify all jumpers are where they need to be.... On another NOTE I also seen where a person killed their motherboard by vacuuming and the vacuum acted like a Van de Graaff and a high voltage static DISCHARGE happens between the aluminum  tube of the vacuum hose and a chip inside the computer.

Hoping its just a jumper sucked up!   Also double check all connections to the motherboard and various components.
Is the 4/8 pin aux power connector plugged in? Caught me out many a time.1) When you say you "cleaned it out" we're assuming you mean you cleared the dust from inside the case. If you mean something else please explain.

2) Is there anything at all on the display or is it completely black?Good evening nurri and welcome to CH

Just like some of the other posts some things to check?

#1... I am assuming that when you cleaned out the PC you are referring too "DUST" and not software / applications?
#2... You say that you reseated the memory and CPU but did you try re-seating the "Video card" if this PC has a add on card?
#3... What MODEL PC so if a "jumper" did get sucked up or blown away during the cleaning if we know the model we may be able to tell you where to look for the jumpers!
#4... if there is a add on "video card" is there a plug at the end of the card and if so is is plugged in?
#5... Is the 20 / 24 pin ATX connector seated and locked in place on the MoBo?
#6... Is there any extra 4 pin connectors to the MoBo and if so are they plugged in? (a lot of 4 pin plugs have 2 yellow and 2 black wires) but that will very on PS companies also.

Hopefully with all the posts in here you do get back up and running and please come back and let us know how you make out, Mike    I have encountered a similar problem, that is if this is not dealing with software.

The jumper i know to cause the most problems is the BIOS mode select jumper, usually located near the CMOS battery. This is three pins up from the mother-board, and when the jumper is not in either "Normal" or "Config" mode, the computer usually displays similar symptoms to what you describe. At least this is my experience across several desktop computer types.

Either way, i hope you find the jumper you need. I always keep some hanging around in the event things like this would happen. May I suggest we wait to hear from the OP to find out what the problem actually is?

4885.

Solve : SMART indicating Hard Drive failure?

Answer»

Hello, my laptop has been telling me that there is a problem with the hard drive for a couple of days now.
When I first turn on the computer, the HP program preinstalled on to my computer tells me that SMART checking fails.
After logging into Windows, a message box pops up that says, "Windows has detected a Hard Drive problem."
Also, the Intel Rapid Storage Technology program tells me, "Your system is reporting one or more events, and data MAY be at risk."

I decided to run a GSmartControl scan of the hard drive.
The scan told me:
(and right as I typed that line above, the Windows Hard Drive window pops up)

Reallocated Sector Count is highlighted in red.
Failed: now
Norm-ed value: 9
Worst: 9
Threshold: 10
Raw value: 14944

Reallocation Event Count is highlighted in pink.
Failed: never
Norm-ed value: 100
Worst: 100
Threshold:0
Raw value:703

Here are the ones marked "Pre-Failure":
Read Error Rate
Throughput Performance
Spin-Up Time
Reallocated Sector Count
Seek Error Rate
Seek Time Performance
Spin-Up Retry Count
End to End Error

Everything else is marked "Old Age".
I have only had this laptop for about half an year.
What is the problem with the drive?
What can I do to fix the problems?

I do have:
One extra hard drive (1.8")
The recovery disk to reset everything


Here is the log:

smartctl 5.41 2011-06-09 r3365 [i686-w64-mingw32-win7(64)-sp1] (sf-win32-5.41-1)
Copyright (C) 2002-11 by Bruce Allen, http://smartmontools.sourceforge.net

=== START OF INFORMATION SECTION ===
Model Family:     Toshiba 2.5" HDD MK..59GSM (Adv. Format)
Device Model:     TOSHIBA MK1059GSM
Serial Number:    Z055F2TZS
LU WWN Device Id: 5 000039 2f6981272
Firmware Version: GL002C
User Capacity:    1,000,204,886,016 bytes [1.00 TB]
Sector Sizes:     512 bytes LOGICAL, 4096 bytes physical
Device is:        In smartctl database [for details use: -P show]
ATA Version is:   8
ATA Standard is:  Exact ATA specification draft version not indicated
Local Time is:    Mon Jul 30 10:13:48 2012 EDT
SMART support is: Available - device has SMART capability.
SMART support is: Enabled

=== START OF READ SMART DATA SECTION ===
SMART overall-health self-assessment test result: FAILED!
Drive failure expected in less than 24 hours. SAVE ALL DATA.
See vendor-specific Attribute list for failed Attributes.

General SMART Values:
Offline data collection status:  (0X00)   Offline data collection activity
               was never started.
               Auto Offline Data Collection: Disabled.
Self-test execution status:      (   0)   The previous self-test routine completed
               without error or no self-test has ever
               been run.
Total time to complete Offline
data collection:       (  120) seconds.
Offline data collection
capabilities:           (0x51) SMART execute Offline immediate.
               No Auto Offline data collection support.
               Suspend Offline collection upon new
               command.
               No Offline surface scan supported.
               Self-test supported.
               No Conveyance Self-test supported.
               Selective Self-test supported.
SMART capabilities:            (0x0003)   Saves SMART data before entering
               power-saving mode.
               Supports SMART auto save timer.
Error logging capability:        (0x01)   Error logging supported.
               General Purpose Logging supported.
Short self-test routine
recommended polling time:     (   2) minutes.
Extended self-test routine
recommended polling time:     ( 253) minutes.
SCT capabilities:           (0x003d)   SCT Status supported.
               SCT Error Recovery Control supported.
               SCT Feature Control supported.
               SCT Data Table supported.

SMART Attributes Data Structure revision number: 16
Vendor Specific SMART Attributes with Thresholds:
ID# ATTRIBUTE_NAME          FLAG     VALUE WORST THRESH TYPE      UPDATED  WHEN_FAILED RAW_VALUE
  1 Raw_Read_Error_Rate     0x002f   100   100   050    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
  2 Throughput_Performance  0x0027   100   100   050    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
  3 Spin_Up_Time            0x0023   100   100   002    Pre-fail  Always       -       3026
  4 Start_Stop_Count        0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       216
  5 Reallocated_Sector_Ct   0x0033   009   009   010    Pre-fail  Always   FAILING_NOW 14944
  7 Seek_Error_Rate         0x002f   100   100   050    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
  8 Seek_Time_Performance   0x0025   100   100   050    Pre-fail  Offline      -       0
  9 Power_On_Hours          0x0032   092   092   000    Old_age   Always       -       3296
 10 Spin_Retry_Count        0x0033   104   100   030    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
 12 Power_Cycle_Count       0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       209
183 Runtime_Bad_Block       0x0032   100   100   001    Old_age   Always       -       0
184 End-to-End_Error        0x0033   100   100   097    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
185 Unknown_Attribute       0x0032   100   100   001    Old_age   Always       -       65535
187 Reported_Uncorrect      0x0032   064   064   000    Old_age   Always       -       36
188 Command_Timeout         0x0032   100   099   000    Old_age   Always       -       8
189 High_Fly_Writes         0x003a   100   100   001    Old_age   Always       -       0
190 Airflow_Temperature_Cel 0x0022   058   047   040    Old_age   Always       -       42 (Min/Max 27/45)
191 G-Sense_Error_Rate      0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       15046
192 Power-Off_Retract_Count 0x0022   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       524296
193 Load_Cycle_Count        0x0032   099   099   000    Old_age   Always       -       12768
196 Reallocated_Event_Count 0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       703
197 Current_Pending_Sector  0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
199 UDMA_CRC_Error_Count    0x0032   200   200   000    Old_age   Always       -       0

SMART Error Log Version: 1
ATA Error Count: 36 (device log contains only the most recent five errors)
   CR = Command Register [HEX]
   FR = Features Register [HEX]
   SC = Sector Count Register [HEX]
   SN = Sector Number Register [HEX]
   CL = Cylinder Low Register [HEX]
   CH = Cylinder High Register [HEX]
   DH = Device/Head Register [HEX]
   DC = Device Command Register [HEX]
   ER = Error register [HEX]
   ST = Status register [HEX]
Powered_Up_Time is measured from power on, and printed as
DDd+hh:mm:SS.sss where DD=days, hh=hours, mm=minutes,
SS=sec, and sss=millisec. It "wraps" after 49.710 days.

Error 36 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 3223 hours (134 days + 7 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 41 e2 70 25 b3 60  Error: WP at LBA = 0x00b32570 = 11740528

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  61 08 30 00 9a 66 40 00   1d+13:13:38.643  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 08 28 68 96 66 40 00   1d+13:13:38.643  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 08 20 50 95 66 40 00   1d+13:13:38.642  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 08 18 f0 94 66 40 00   1d+13:13:38.642  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 08 10 80 94 66 40 00   1d+13:13:38.641  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED

Error 35 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 3223 hours (134 days + 7 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 41 c2 70 25 b3 60  Error: WP at LBA = 0x00b32570 = 11740528

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  61 05 a0 e0 e3 16 40 00   1d+13:13:34.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 00 98 e0 e2 16 40 00   1d+13:13:34.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 70 90 90 43 08 40 00   1d+13:13:34.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 08 88 50 8a 9e 40 00   1d+13:13:34.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 07 78 f8 4d 9e 40 00   1d+13:13:34.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED

Error 34 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 3223 hours (134 days + 7 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 41 32 70 25 b3 60  Error: WP at LBA = 0x00b32570 = 11740528

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  61 27 38 f8 1a c9 40 00   1d+13:13:30.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 00 28 f8 19 c9 40 00   1d+13:13:30.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 27 20 00 c1 c8 40 00   1d+13:13:28.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 27 18 d0 19 c9 40 00   1d+13:13:28.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 27 10 28 c2 c8 40 00   1d+13:13:28.639  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED

Error 33 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 3223 hours (134 days + 7 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 41 2a 70 25 b3 60  Error: WP at LBA = 0x00b32570 = 11740528

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  61 27 70 88 bd c8 40 00   1d+13:13:26.640  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 00 68 88 bc c8 40 00   1d+13:13:26.640  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 01 48 c8 08 07 40 00   1d+13:13:25.042  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 27 40 60 bc c8 40 00   1d+13:13:24.640  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 00 38 60 bb c8 40 00   1d+13:13:24.640  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED

Error 32 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 3223 hours (134 days + 7 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 41 7a 70 25 b3 60  Error: WP at LBA = 0x00b32570 = 11740528

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  61 08 90 08 2d 62 40 00   1d+13:13:21.813  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 78 88 98 17 63 40 00   1d+13:13:21.813  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 1f 80 c8 1f c9 40 00   1d+13:13:21.811  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 00 58 c8 1e c9 40 00   1d+13:13:21.811  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED
  61 00 48 c8 1d c9 40 00   1d+13:13:21.811  WRITE FPDMA QUEUED

SMART Self-test log structure revision number 1
No self-tests have been logged.  [To run self-tests, use: smartctl -t]


SMART Selective self-test log data structure revision number 1
 SPAN  MIN_LBA  MAX_LBA  CURRENT_TEST_STATUS
    1        0        0  Not_testing
    2        0        0  Not_testing
    3        0        0  Not_testing
    4        0        0  Not_testing
    5        0        0  Not_testing
Selective self-test flags (0x0):
  After scanning selected spans, do NOT read-scan remainder of disk.
If Selective self-test is pending on power-up, resume after 0 minute delay.I'm not sure I know what your question is.Quoted from the post I posted,

Quote

--
Everything else is marked "Old Age".
I have only had this laptop for about half an year.
What is the problem with the drive?
What can I do to fix the problems?

I do have:
One extra hard drive (1.8")
The recovery disk to reset everything
--

The question was right before the logs... Quote from: sarcasticphoenix on JULY 30, 2012, 08:33:37 AM
Everything else is marked "Old Age".
I have only had this laptop for about half an year.
1.  What is the problem with the drive?
2.  What can I do to fix the problems?

I do have:
3.  One extra hard drive (1.8")
The recovery disk to reset everything
1.  SMART is indicating that failure is imminent.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T.
2.  Replace the hard drive.
3.  You cannot replace a 2.5" with a 1.8"

Win7 has a Backup Utility to create an image on an external USB drive or your DVD drive.

Quote from: sarcasticphoenix on July 30, 2012, 09:49:59 AM
Quoted from the post I posted,

The question was right before the logs...
Sorry, that wasn't (and still isn't) clear to me - but okay. Anyway, you obviously want to replace the drive. Quote from: Computer_Commando on July 30, 2012, 09:59:40 AM
3.  You cannot replace a 2.5" with a 1.8"

You can get adapters and caddies...

Yes, I know I cannot use that 1.8"... dang, this is horrible.
My computer's hard drive starts to die RIGHT before going on a nice two-week vacation.
Maybe I will go buy some high-tech hard drives in Tokyo. Quote from: sarcasticphoenix on July 30, 2012, 01:42:55 PM
Yes, I know I cannot use that 1.8"

$20 or less

Micro SATA to SATA (1.8" to 2.5") Hard Drive/SSD Convertor Enclosure Adapter Caddy

4886.

Solve : An adapter for my Turtle Beaches Earforce x12's for PC?

Answer»

Hi, so last year on my birthday, my brother in law bought me a Turtle Beaches Earforce x12 HEADSET. Its designed and works great for Xbox, however I play alot of MMO's, and Teamspeak is vital. I use this to listen to music and TS3, but the pink cable that plugs into the microphone jack, cannot reach the back of the tower. Ive tried googling, checking their website, customer support, and cant figure it out. Does anyone know where I can get an adapter so I can use both the headphone and microphone parts of the headset for my gaming?

Any questions, just ask Ill be happy to help.

Thank you.Sorry to DP, but I decided to REMOVE my old SPEAKERS from my dell that for some reason I had attached to this PC, and I messed around and got it working. I hear some white noise at high volume levels (Higher than normal).

Also, when I did this, it made it so that my headphones were considered the speakers and it goes to that, should I assume that if I want my speakers to not be the turtle beaches, I can unplug them and it'll go from there?Good evening WillNeedsHelpFast

In your profile you have windows 7 listed and this tip may only work for windows 7 and I can't remember if Vista and below had this adjustment 

If you dis-connected your speakers and hooked up just your headphones

Please make sure the speaker connection from the headphones goes into the "green" plug and the mic is connected to the "pink". Also if you click on the "start" globe and in the box type "sound" then when the sound window opens click on the "recording tab" then highlight the microphone and then click "properties" button then click on the "levels tab" and if the boot is up to say 10 or 20 etc BRING it down to "0".

GIVE that a try and please come back and let us know how you make out, Mike

4887.

Solve : Lots of hardware failing?

Answer»

So, my AC port, my keyboard, and my USB board all don't work.
Details and attempted fixes listed below.

Details:
My AC port doesn't charge my battery.  It will run my computer from the outlet in the wall, but the output pins in my battery slot measure very low voltage on a voltmeter (~0.3V).  I get the whole "plugged in, not charging" thing.

My c, d, e, 3, F1, F2, F3, and F4 keys all don't work on my keyboard.

All three of my USB ports measure no voltage on a voltmeter.


What I've Done (All to no avail):
-Updated all drivers
-The whole "turn off, remove battery, turn on, uninstall battery, turn off, plug in battery, turn on" sequence
-Replaced motherboard--still had exact problems listed above
-Tested RAM multiple times with Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool, memtest86+, and BurnInTest.  All tests checked out.  (However, I couldn't get into the advanced settings menu in Windows Memory Diagnostics or memtest because my F1 and F2 keys don't work.)


So, it's not my mobo, it's not my RAM.  I'm honestly at a loss.  Do I start replacing individual components now?  I just struggle to see how so many hardware components would all fail individually.What lead up to this failure? Lightning strike etc? When was the last time it RAN correctly and what happened between then and now? Did you make sure to connect the USB cable to the motherboard when swapping if the USB is not physically part of the motherboard? Seen some where smaller USB daughter boards are in there with a ribbon cable to the motherboard for USB.

Quote

-Replaced motherboard--still had exact problems listed above
First time in a long time of hearing someone swapping out a laptops motherboard. They can be lots of fun  Generally I buy a donor laptop and place the better of the 2's guts into the one which doesn't require motherboard swapping such as when i TOOK 2 Dell Latitudes and made 1 good one of the 2 like models, then placed the carcass of the one that became a donor into the closet in case I ever need a display etc.

From the sounds of it your laptop may be beyond economical repair.  A keyboard replacement might be a cheap start. I replaced my keyboard from a merchant on amazon for $12 and free shipping 2 months ago.

What make and model is it?

Good evening luc1d and welcome to CH

I do have a couple of questions what model of laptop?

If you replace the MoBo in the laptop and still have the same issues "no usb ports, not charging the battery etc.

1...The AC charger may be going bad. Not supplying enough voltage & charging battery.
2...The BIOS may need to be updated and by a new BIOS update can fix the charging issue etc.
3...Just like in the posts after market OEM keyboards can be found for 20-30 dollars in a lot of cases.
4...Updating the chipset drivers may fix the USB port issues
5...Check in the device manager to see if any devices have a yellow! or are greyed out.
6...Even knowing you replaced the MoBo the replacement may have DC jack and depending on laptop model the DC jack may not be soldered onto the MoBo and may be on a daughter board that plugs into the MoBo. 
7...Re-Installing the OS with updated driver may help some issues

The USB ports have 4 wires (a voltage+ and this is only 5v / a ground / a DATA+ / a data-) but this configuration holds true only from usb 1.0 to 2.0 for USB 3.0 they have 9 wires

Please let us know how you make out, Mike  It almost sounds like a power jack issue with it not charging could have short in it but since you don't have some keys working, not sure. Try the simple things first remove your battery and leave out for 5 or 10 minutes reinstall and see what happens. It also could be a charge controller for the battery try a different charger made for your laptop and see if it makes any difference..............gjmay Quote from: hartbeatmr on July 26, 2012, 06:43:38 PM

I do have a couple of questions what model of laptop?

If you replace the MoBo in the laptop and still have the same issues "no usb ports, not charging the battery etc.

1...The AC charger may be going bad. Not supplying enough voltage & charging battery.
2...The BIOS may need to be updated and by a new BIOS update can fix the charging issue etc.
3...Just like in the posts after market OEM keyboards can be found for 20-30 dollars in a lot of cases.
4...Updating the chipset drivers may fix the USB port issues
5...Check in the device manager to see if any devices have a yellow! or are greyed out.
6...Even knowing you replaced the MoBo the replacement may have DC jack and depending on laptop model the DC jack may not be soldered onto the MoBo and may be on a daughter board that plugs into the MoBo. 
7...Re-Installing the OS with updated driver may help some issues

Please let us know how you make out, Mike 

I have replaced both the battery and the power supply and I still have the same problem there..
Drivers are all up to date.
The DC jack on the new mobo is soldered onto the same place as the old one.

Maybe I'll try reinstalling the OS and updating BIOS though.

Quote from: DaveLembke on July 26, 2012, 02:42:08 PM
What lead up to this failure? Lightning strike etc? When was the last time it ran correctly and what happened between then and now? Did you make sure to connect the USB cable to the motherboard when swapping if the USB is not physically part of the motherboard? Seen some where smaller USB daughter boards are in there with a ribbon cable to the motherboard for USB.

What make and model is it?



I honestly don't remember what happened when the power jack failed.  That has been a problem for over a year.  The other two are new.  I don't know if any of them are related.
Yes, the USB ribbon cable is securely seated into the motherboard.

And it is a custom built laptop.  i.e. no make and model.  It's a PC Laptops custom built.  (PC Laptops is a local computer repair/custom build store in my state.)


Anyway, I'll try the OS and BIOS updates/reinstalls and try buying a new keyboard and let you all know how it works.  Thanks for the SUGGESTIONS!
4888.

Solve : I ball headphones not working properly?

Answer»

Dear Experts,

My IBALL headphones have suddenly stopped working PROPERLY. I can hear from both speakers but audio sounds muffled and shrill sounds like voices cannot be heard. This happened suddenly this afternoon. I was playing my game the audio was working perfectly but when I stopped the game and played a movie I COULD not hear in most parts but in some scenes I could hear pretty well. When I resumed my game I could not hear the dialogues and hitting sounds during combat, only a few muffled sound effects. While playing music also everything sounds muffled and is not clear at all. Why is this happening? How can I fix it? The model is i342MV w/ mike. Also, music sounds totally different. The background sound effects seem to be sound different to the original.Un-plug it and re-plug it...

Re-install the drivers and re-boot...Good evening XtrGamer and welcome

     I just looked at the web site and I am not finding drivers (this doesn't mean there is not drivers) but "patio" is correct and I have a couple of idea's that may help

#1... If the headphones are plugged in the front of your PC if this is a "desktop" try plugging them into the rear and if they are already in the rear of the PC try them in front if you have ports for them.

#2... Do the wires LOOK ok? no visible signs of coating missing so you can see metal hanging out or visible?

#3... For testing PURPOSES "mute the mic" if the headphones sounds are normal than the mic is interfering and going bad.

#4... I don't think your headset has this option but do they have "Bluetooth" or is there a new wireless / Bluetooth device installed that the PC does not like now?

#5... Try moving your PC speakers further away if the speakers are not shielded they may be interfering now.   

Hope to hear from you soon, please let us KNOW how you make out, Mike       
  Dear guys,

thanks for helping me out. I listened to both of ur advice and no, it did not work. But about the wire coating thing mike said, yup i can see a bit of the metal but that is where the wire goes in to the volume control. Due to some applied pressure soem time go, the fastener came loose and I can see the wire as it goes into the volume control.

4889.

Solve : Gaming Machine Upgrade?

Answer»

I have a Pent 4 Socket 478 PC with 4 GB of RAM.  Thing is that I want to upgrade to a Dual Core Board too run Assassian Creed Brother Hood an other games.  I bought a AM2+ to Test a Dell Board that I just want to use as the CPU "Dell Dimension E521"  just wondered if that would be fast enough an I have DDR2 RAM.  AM2+ motherboards can run older AM2 CPUs as well as newer AM3 CPU's. The biggest limitation to that board will be processor support for AM3 processors. Some boards do not have BIOS updates to support say a x3 or x4 processor, while others with a flash update could handle say a Phenom II x4 AM3 3.0 Ghz CPU such as my motherboard max's out at and is an AM2+ motherboard. And in order to get my AM3 Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz to boot, I had to perform a flash on it with the old AM2 processor first. Then perform the CPU upgrade for the quadcore to run.

The only drawback to a AM2+ motherboard vs a newer AM3 or AM3+ motherboard is that you can only run DDR2 Ram in an AM2+ motherboard, while the AM3 CPU supports DDR3 memory. So if you were to populate that AM3 CPU into an AM3 or AM3+ motherboard you could install faster DDR3 memory and have better benchmark results.

What is the CPU you plan on using and the motherboard make/model#. The Motherboard should be on silk screen on it like mine is MCP6PB M2+ near the CPU socket of my Biostar motherboard. With this information we can be sure the 2 are a compatible match. QUOTE from: Ryuk on August 02, 2012, 07:53:38 AM

I have a Pent 4 Socket 478 PC with 4 GB of RAM.  Thing is that I want to upgrade to a Dual Core Board too run Assassian Creed Brother Hood an other games.  I bought a AM2+ to Test a Dell Board that I just want to use as the CPU "Dell Dimension E521"  just wondered if that would be fast enough an I have DDR2 RAM.
I bought a AM2+ to Test a Dell Board that I just want to use as the CPU "Dell Dimension E521"Need to know what CPU and Exact Motherboard Part # to give you an answer as to whether it will run that game. AM2+ board could have any combinations of Oldest AM2 to AM3 CPU type, some will run the game fine while others if it can run it at all will provide poor performance.

CPU is the processor name and part # such as your socket 478 pentium 4 is probably like a Pentium 4 2.4Ghz single core socket 478. We need the processor name of the socket AM2 or AM3 and details such as Athlon II x2 2.53Ghz AM2 or Sempron 140 AM3 etc.

http://boardreader.com/thread/Dell_dimension_e521_cpu_upgrade_question_5mer3Xbixwv.html
Assuming by SEARCHING for the Dell model that you have a AMD Athlon 64 3200+ which would be breaking a sweat trying to run games like this. I'd invest into a AM3 more modern CPU like the Athlon II x2, or x4, OR Phenom II x2, x3, x4, but you will want to research the motherboard to make sure it will run that cpu or you will have issues. The original MB is an AM2 and since your installing an AM2+ you can go with a better AM3 CPU, but there may be limited bios flash support for the higher end CPUs if the AM2+ is an older board or of a manufacturer that has poor support.

My friend I gave an AM2 Sempron x2 2.00 Ghz CPU to from my original AM2+ Biostar motherboard build, and he ran into issues with his AM2+ ASUS until he performed the BIOS flash that I told him to perform. After the flash to the most recent flash version all was well and he had a fast Dual Core Sempron vs his Athlon 64 2600+

ALSO Video Card is very very important to running games. I hope you have a video card with at least 512MB DDR dedicated video memory for that game and dont plan on playing it through integrated GPU which may not run the game at all.
4890.

Solve : can not be waken up from sleep mode?

Answer»

My computer is just bought not long ago, before sleep function WOKS quite good, but now it can not be wakened up from sleep mode, my computer is windows 7, home premiumI have seen UPDATES BREAK this feature before. Have you backed up your important data and then tried reverting back to oldest restore point or even restoring your system from system restore image which sets it back up to factory build defaults?

I am guessing that setting it back up to factory build defaults by performing a system restore from image will correct for this. Test after this is performed and offline so it DOESNT automatically take updates. If all is well, then perform all microsoft updates and then test again. If it then breaks the sleep mode, then its an UPDATE that is causing this.many thanks, this problem has been solved, i update the computer, now it works quite good~

4891.

Solve : To upgrade hardware or start new??

Answer»

PC was custom built, not by me, 4 yrs ago but even shortly after reformatting it starts SLOWING down.  Not sure if it just because I have gotten so used to my new LAPTOP's performance and new tech compared to my older PC or if it really has lost performance ABILITIES with age (is that possible?).  Either way I want a better preforming PC.  I use it mostly for internet (lots of tabs though), medium gaming (sims 3 and such) but would like to use the highest settings, dvd and photo back-ups and other simple tasks.


Specs
Windows XP Home 5.1 SP3
Asus P5WD2 Premium motherboard
ATI Radeon HD 5450 (cheap quick replacement for XFX GeForce 8600 GT XXX 600M 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express Video Card)
OCZ 2GB Kit DDR2 PC2-6400 4-4-4 Platinum Revision 2 Dual Channel (I actually have another 2GB kit just never wanted to go into bios to make it work)
2- Maxtor 320GB(640GB total) Serial ATA/300 16MB Buffer 7200RPM
2 TB Goflex External drive
Intel Premium 4 CPU 3.20 GHz
Antec Super LanBoy Aluminum Tower w/ 550w Fatality power supply
plextor px-716a AND HP 840 lightscribe


So I figure I have to change the CPU for sure and possibly the motherboard, right?  Is everything else still work keeping or should I just get a whole new PC?  Thanks

Well as your post indicates your level of knowledge of computers is above basic level so undoubtedly you are aware of the myriad of things both software and hardware that can cause slowing down of a computer over time.Especially seems more pronounced when you compare it against a more modern equipment. Notwithstanding that there are some things that can be done to try and improve the performance (speed wise). The 1st and foremost is to maximize your ram. Bearing in mind that given you are using win xp (probably 32 bit version) the maximum recognizable will be between 3 and 3.5 gb more than likely. So even if the computer can take more it won't be effective above those values. Personally i wouldn't recommend the replacement of CPU and/or motherboard. unless it is for practice/knowledge/experience reasons. Many things can be tried to optimize the computer (which we can advise you on if you desire) but i would do those things and realize it's limitations and try to use it within them and set your sights on a newer replacement when you can.truenorthGood afternoon myswtsins and welcome

In my opinion if you would want to maximize the performance of the PC you now have I do have some recommendations.

The info that truenorth gave is 100% correct and these upgrades will depend on the OS (operating system) and how much you want to spend and with some learning 

Move from XP to Windows 7 64 bit. There really is not that much of a difference / learning curve. By moving from a 32 bit OS to 64 bit the CPU will be brought to it's full potential.

The same is true for the memory because your motherboard can take up to 8 gig's of memory. You stated that you now have 2 gig's installed and if the person / company used 1 or 2 sticks (considering it is DDR2 it is more than likely a single 2 gig stick) so you should install the new 2 gig memory stick into the motherboard. There is no configuration for this you just put it in and the BIOS see's it and that is it you now have 4 gig's. Looking at the pic of the motherboard if the memory is in the yellow slot just put your new stick in the other yellow slot.

If you stay with XP (if it is a 32 bit XP but most likely it is) will only see / use 3 to 3.5 gig's even if you have 4 gig's installed that is a limitation of the OS.   

Harddrive wise you are fine and depending on how much you want to spend buy a faster video card. The only thing you have to do is make sure the video card is a PCIx and will run in a 16x slot(most PCIx will) and you don't have to worry the PS should be more than enough and should have the power connector for the new card. Video cards can cost as little as 35$ to thousands of dollars decent card can be bought for 80 to 100$ the choice is yours. It doesn't matter if you buy ATI or NVidia and everyone will have there views and experiences & years ago ATI drivers could be a headache. Now days both ATI and NVidia drivers have gotten much better.   

Other than that in my opinion you are good. Some others on here my give you there opinion. Hopefully this helps you, Mike    ever consider defragging and a disk cleanup to improve performance you might be surprised, get rid if some of those old programs that you don't use anymore, you didn't mention any kind of maintenance for your xp and it does require that and run a chkdsk on it if there are any problems with files you can run a chkdsk /r and that would fix any CORRUPT or it should ............good luck whatever you do.................gjmay Quote from: myswtsins on July 28, 2012, 08:06:33 AM

...shortly after reformatting it starts slowing down...

Are you sure that it's not just getting bogged down with start up programs? Check msconfig to see what programs are starting up with your computer. (Windows key + R and type in msconfig)
Thanks for all the replies!  Sorry for the delay.

Some more info...
~I am using 32 bit XP.
~Memory is two 1GB sticks currently (I have 2 more sticks).  I have tried adding the other 2 but it didn't work, beeping I think but it was a long time ago, and research indicated I needed to go into BIOS so I never got around to that.    I have tried the other kit in the first slots to test it and they do work.
~I use the start-up manager thing.
~I am not brave enough to defrag my PC anymore, bad past experiences and disk cleanup always freezes.
~I use Malwarebytes and AVG, fyi.

You all seem to believe my PC is worth keeping so I will try upgrading to Windows 7, re-format again, add the full 4GBs of RAM, and eventually get a better graphics card. 

Can multiple re-formats hurt anything?  Are there any free recommended programs or complete checklists for drivers you should make sure you have backed-up?  Because that is the biggest headache for sure.  I only just recently stopped (fingers crossed!) the BSOD by disabling a component in device manager that NO program or searching could ID.

With my proposed setup could you recommend a decently priced graphic card that would allow my to have all, or nearly all, my settings on high while playing SIMS 3?  I've gone through the researching and comparing of cards several times before and really not looking forward to doing it again with all the new cards. 

THANK YOU!Just some points to consider as you contemplate upgrading the O/S to win 7. If it is important ensure that CURRENT hardware you have associated with your XP install will work with win 7. Remember that while you may gain the ability to use more Ram you may lose in other areas. I don't know if your current problem with the ability to use the additional ram modules you have are due to an incompatibility with the others that are in your computer. If so that problem will still be there. I guess my main question given your graphics card question would be in the existing configuration did your computer ever perform to the level you want with the game you mentioned? If the answer is yes then i would try ALL the things that you can to try and get back there again as opposed to the route you are thinking about.truenorth
P.S. As i just reread your last post it occurs to me that one of the things i would do to possibly increase the speed of the computer is uninstall the AVG and install Microsoft Security Essentials instead. It is far less invasive than AVG.So far no budget has been mentioned...
4892.

Solve : Blue Screen and Restart?

Answer»

Turned on my computer and Norton antivirus update showed up.  Haven't used Norton in quite a while but did in the past.  Hit cancel and went to control panel to remove software.  Removed Live update. Got error message "problem due to recent hardwar/software issues.Computer restarts itself every 5 to 15 minites continually.  Went to recycle bin and restored symantec.  Still restarting.  Went to restore points after booting up in "last known good configuration". Restore points only let me go back in month of July, no earlier.  After 8 attempts restore point on July 10th was successful, however computer still just flashes blue screen error message for a split SECOND before restarting itself after 2 to 3 minutes each time.  Can't get to a point where I can do ANYTHING. Please help.Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply Quote from: suzieq922 on August 01, 2012, 09:28:48 AM

1.  Removed Live update. Got error message "problem due to recent hardwar/software issues.Computer restarts itself every 5 to 15 minites continually. 
2.  Went to recycle bin and restored symantec.  Still restarting. 
3.  Went to restore points after booting up in "last known good configuration". Restore points only let me go back in month of July, no earlier. 
...
1.  How exactly did you remove it?  Uninstall or delete folders?
2.  If you uninstalled it, there is NOTHING in the recycle bin to restore.
3.  If you didn't create a restore point, don't expect to FIND a more recent one.

NAV Live Update is nothing but problems.  In order to COMPLETELY remove NAV, you need to run NAV removal tool.
https://www-secure.symantec.com/norton-support/jsp/help-solutions.jsp?docid=kb20080710133834EN_EndUserProfile_en_us&product=home&pvid=f-home&version=1&lg=english&ct=us

You cannot have more than 1 anti-virus installed at a time.
4893.

Solve : high ping when new computer is turned on?

Answer»

so my dad just bought a new computer. every time he turns it on the ping skyrockets to around 700-800 our regular ping is usually around 30-40 at first i thought i was the internet but  i tested it and saw that it was the computer. how can i fix this problem?Are you connected VIA wifi or Cat 5 cable? Is his system performing a DOWNLOAD during the connected PROCESS in which he is hogging the bandwidth and creating latency? Is he watching streaming content while you are having these issues or is the computer idle?yes we are connected by wifi and he is downloading nothing and the computer is idleI'd install wireshark on your (guessing laptop with wifi ) and watch the packets from his system which I am guessing is also a laptop. You will be able to know what the IP address is that his system is running out to and be able to watch all wifi traffic on your LAN. Also before doing that, shut off all other wifi devices except for his new computer and watch the LED on the access point or router to see if its blinking like crazy or just on occasion after simply booting his machine up and waiting at the desktop without running any other software. If the LED is blinking like crazy just about non stop, then his system is running out to the web and eating up bandwidth. You then would be able to use wireshark and see the IP address its running out to from your machine and determine if its an auto-updater that is pulling updates that is eating up bandwidth or if the system may already have been compromised by malware and is trying to spread.

Also any changes in the home when he is on his computer? Had a person one time with a problem in which they had wifi certain times of day and lost it during other times. The END result was that they had a weak signal to begin with and during a certain time of day their father who was an engineer would close his office door to isolate himself in thought, and the signal would be gone. The wireless router was in his office on the first floor of a large home, and the person ( guessing a kid ) had their computer on the third floor and almost diagonal in location in the home. End solution since they had money was to get a contractor in to install Cat 5e patch pannel in the basement with the broadband modem and router, and Cat 5e to 5 rooms needing internet access patched back to the router.thanks i'll try that out and see if that works.so i took your advice to download wireshark but i'm not sure how to use it and track down the websites.Not that I doubt your analysis, but curious how you tested and determined it wasn't your internet connection.

Also, what is giving you your current ping reading? Where is that coming from?ohh umm the way i tested it was i went start ENTERED cmd and typed in ping - t google.com and looked at my ping, after that i went and turned on my dad's computer and then the ping went up, i shut the computer down and it went back to normal. i did that several times and it happened everytime i turned on the computer.

and also my current ping is 504 Good evening toasters112

Here thing you can try

Ping the "house router" from every PC in house all PC should be < 3ms (wired or wireless) if you have less than 100 PC's

What is your internet connection (cable, DSL, Sat, MiFi etc)

Move the PC to a different location in house sometimes 2 feet makes all the difference in the world

Connect a CAT cable from problem PC to router does the ping improve / go back to normal !

If using a cat cable and the issue goes away you may have to update the drivers / firmware for wireless card. Or contact PC manufacture so the wireless card can be replaced.

Please let us know how you make out, Mike 
 So let me get this straight:

1. We're talking two different computers here.
2. When your father's is off, your computer gets a fairly normal ping.
3. When your father's is on, your computer gets a high ping.

Which would raise more questions:

1. When both are on and you ping from his computer, what is the ping like?
2. When yours is off, what is his ping like?
3. Is it possible for you to connect either (or both) to the router by wire instead of wireless for testing purposes?
4. In all three situations (yours on, his on, both on), go to http://www.speedtest.net and run a speed/ping test. Post the results of each.*
5. What firewall and anti-virus are you running?
6. Are there any proxy settings in your internet settings?

*After each speed test, click "Share this result", then click the "forum" tab, then copy and paste the URL in your next reply. This will save you from having to retype all the information. Will look something like this:

4894.

Solve : LED Lights?

Answer»

hey guys, i just had a very basic question and was wondering if anybody knew or not.
Basically i was wondering if the LED light combinations vary from computer to computer or network to network.  i am using a lenovo thinkpad t400 on the ibm network, xp is my os, and i know i am connected just fine, and was just wondering if say someone was using a different laptop on a different network assuming they were connected to the network fine would have the same combinations. i was speaking to someone that had a flashing green light with a solid orange light on a hp desktop who couldn't get into her network, i saw that a flashing green light has to do with the cpu sending or receiving a signal, error message she was receiving was just a very generic "invalid username and password and could not figure out if it was her nic or not. i've TRIED to be detailed as possible, if someone needs more info let me know, and any input would be appreciated. thanxBest thing to do would be to visit the manuf. site and see what the different color lites indicate...Is this a home or work network? Desktop led light indicators are usually for LAN ETHERNET ports only. However the invalid username and password is not a complete information whether its a PASSKEY to access a server or network or a website login requisite.its a work networkGood morning marine_brolly and welcome back

     On laptops if one light is green and one is orange that just means the green is power to the jack and orange would be a communication light. But the colors can and do vary from COMPANY to company and model of PC does not always hold true about "green lights" sometimes means a good connection.

    On some laptop PC's both lights can be green or orange and some older laptops "integrated" NIC's do NOT have any lights.

If you are are a work network (in a domain) and your friend is on her work network (domain) that she would NEED a username and password in-order to join your network. If both of your work PC's are considered "workgroup" network in most cases she would not need to input a user name and password.   

Hope this answers your question, Mike That being said: :

Quote from: patio on July 26, 2012, 03:26:47 PM

Best thing to do would be to visit the manuf. site and see what the different color lites indicate...
thanks for the input, i just wasn't sure and thought it would be useful for my job However the invalid username and password is not a complete information whether its a passkey to access a server or network or a website login requisite.







____________________________
led light bulb
flexible led strip
led strip lights
4895.

Solve : My computer fail to start, on startup, my computer's keyboard no action.?

Answer»

My computer fail to start, on startup, my computer's keyboard no action, can not get into safemode and bios, who could help me?EXACTLY what happens when you press the power button?

What type of SYSTEM is it?

What is new or different SINCE the last time EVERYTHING WORKED properly (ie, new hw, new SW, virus, error, etc)?

Nobody can help you until you provide more relevant information.

4896.

Solve : Need advice for a new graphic card?

Answer»

Looking to upgrade my ati radeon hd 4650 to a better graphic card.?
Right down my system is a hp pavilion p627oz windows 7 64 bit amd phenom x4 925 quaf core 2.8ghz.
6gb ddr3 power output 300 watt expansion slots pci express x16 1 pci express x1 3 pci express x1 minicard SOCKET 1. motherboard foxconnh-rs880-uatx chipset amd 785g front side bus 4000mhz hyper transport 3.0. Thanks for any advice, also would LIKE the new card for playing games and WATCHING movies.Like to spend around$350.00.Just curious...because it's unclear in your description...are you saying this rig is running on a 300W PSU ? ?

4897.

Solve : ATI graphics drivers gone after windows update!?! help!?

Answer»

I have been having an issue with an update that came out for my ATI display driver from windows update. It was an optional update that fixed a problem with my external monitor but now my laptop doesn't seem to be recognising the previous ATI graphics drivers it had installed. The catalyst control centre doesn't have any of the features like display and audio options, it now only SHOWS the hydra grid options. My computer also seems to think that nothing is wrong. It is very noticeable in gaming and I cannot find anything to help with this ANNOYING problem. I have already system restored my computer the first time to get it fixed but there has to be a different way of fixing this issue. So please if anyone knows anything that can help that would be greatly appreciated.

system specs:
 Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service PACK 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.120503-2030)
           Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: Hewlett-Packard
       System Model: HP Pavilion dv6 Notebook PC
               BIOS: InsydeH2O Version 03.60.48F.1B
          Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2410M CPU 2.30GHz (4 CPUs), ~2.3GHz
             Memory: 4096MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 4044MB RAM
          Page File: 3691MB used, 4394MB available
        Windows Dir: C:\Windows
    DirectX Version: DirectX 11

Here's what is says about the display:

 Card name: Radeon (TM) HD 6770M       
       Manufacturer: ATI Technologies Inc.
          Chip TYPE: ATI display adapter (0x6740)
           DAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)
         Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_6740&SUBSYS_1657103C&REV_00
     Display Memory: 2778 MB
   Dedicated Memory: 1012 MB
      Shared Memory: 1765 MB
       Current Mode: 1366 x 768 (32 bit) (60Hz)
       Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
      Monitor Model: unknown
         Monitor Id: CMO15A2
        Native Mode: 1366 x 768(p) (59.989Hz)
        Output Type: Internal
        Driver Name: aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx32,aticfx32,aticfx32,atiumd64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atiumdag,atidxx32,atidxx32,atiumdva,atiumd6a.cap,atitmm64.dll
Driver File Version: 8.17.0010.1070 (English)
     Driver Version: 8.830.6.2000
        DDI Version: 11
       Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
  Driver Attributes: Final Retail
   Driver DATE/Size: 4/13/2011 02:02:10, 795648 bytes
        WHQL Logo'd: Yes
    WHQL Date Stamp:
  Device Identifier: {D7B71EE2-2400-11CF-A277-5D36BEC2C535}
          Vendor ID: 0x1002
          Device ID: 0x6740
          SubSys ID: 0x1657103C
        Revision ID: 0x0000
 Driver Strong Name: oem49.inf:ATI.Mfg.NTamd64.6.1:ati2mtag_Vancouver_PXAI:8.830.6.2000:pci\ven_1002&dev_6740&subsys_1657103c
     Rank Of Driver: 00E60001
        Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C Good morning turbomike135

Is this post in error. We were working with you on another post and you said that you were all set for the time being.

Please let us know if you have another PC with the same issue, thank you Mike  Yeah everything seems to be working out now thanksGood morning turbomike135

You are very welcome any time please just let us know if you ever need anything else, sorry to bug you I just wanted to make sure you didn't have another PC with an issue.

 Thank you, Mike

4898.

Solve : help - sticky mouse - again?

Answer»

Many times have we been here, so apologies for rehashing what may/may not be obvious.

Machine: DIY Asus M2N-SLI mb, AMD 2.1GHz CPU, 2GB ram, GeForce 7600 GT video, XP-3 os, Logitech radio/laser mouse.

Problem:
Historically has been working fine for about 5yrs. Recently, works most of the time, but gets just sticky enough to cause heartburn. Left button intermittent - worse than heartburn. Seems more prevalent when working within a window compared to DESKTOP. I've tried the Win GENERIC driver, the driver that came with the mouse, and the most recent drivers from Logitech - no difference. Batteries are new and fresh. OPTICAL window has been cleaned. Different pads have been tried. Device MANAGER has been monitored and fiddled with. No listed IRQ conflicts. Etc. Best guess: is this a system problem or a dead mouse? Unfortunately, I don't have another mouse to try for comparison. They are cheap, so I could just buy one, but I'd like a more insightful approach, if possible. Thanks for any and all comments.

...robertNo way to answer your question until you try a different mouse.I'll dig up a mouse, try it, and report back. Thanks.

...robertBuy a new mouse...I brought my work mouse home. Seems to be a big improvement. I'll buy a new mouse.

...robert There you go.You don't clearly define what "sticky" is, but it's possible since the original mouse is wireless that there may be some interference, causing the signal to not come in clearly.Well, lots of good thought. Thanks. That said, a new mouse fixed all problems.

...robert

4899.

Solve : Pci express help?

Answer»

i need to remove  my pci express card  but i am in a SMALL CASE and  the ARM to un LOCK the lock is  gone...any ideas what  i need to do

thanksGood evening krytos2004and welcome to CH

Sorry a little more info is needed.

If the little arm is gone it should pull out once the screw in the back of the card is removed.

What PC is this (Dell / custom) if it is a custom PC what is the model of the MoBo (ms-7104etc)

Please let us know, MIKE   well  i got it out ..but its a  hp palivion a1630n   but now i ran into another issue   of installing windows  and it getting half way in to it and i get the  blue screen of death  ugh ..so  i will post  in  another area soon on this matter

thanks

4900.

Solve : Erratic SSD boot up speeds?

Answer»

Just got an Intel 330 Series 120GB SSD yesterday.
Did a little research since this is my first SSD in ownership. AHCI is enabled in BIOS, TRIM enabled and drivers installed. Even checked to see if the partition was aligned and it is.
Went to do a fresh install of Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit and initially the boot time from power on to desktop was around 15-20 SECONDS. Went through Windows UPDATER to pick up latest updates and the time started to degenerate. Now with most motherboard drivers and drivers in general for PERIPHERALS installed, times have creeped up to 1:30 roughly (i timed it with a stopclock on my phone several times and got a base value of around that time).

Once the desktop is loaded, the drive runs like a charm....but that boot time. I downloaded the Intel SSD Toolbox and optimized the drive and its overall HEALTH is good.

What could be causing that? Id like to think that simple updates/service packs and chipset drivers wouldn't be causing that. Running outta ideas here. Help!Good afternoon Poissionnariat and welcome

I think I understand what you are talking about.

The average time to the windows desktop is about 1+ min that part is not unusual.

Thing to check that may help you

#1... Check to see what is starting up and UN-check all unnecessary items. "MSCONFIG" do not turn of items like AVC suite / Firewall etc
#2... Check in the BIOS for the boot up options so the HD is the first boot device.
#3... Window updates will some times slow the boot up times.     
#4... All drivers that are installed are  64bit. Install the chipset drivers from the MoBo manufacture and not using the W7 gen ones.

Hope this helps you and if we can help you any more please let us know, Mike  All steps accomplished. Speeds to desktop are still quite low. What I cant understand is it going from 15 seconds to a whopping minute or so. I got this SSD primarily because of the reduced boot times. Im quite bothered by that turn around.