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I have XP os with the hdd divided into 2 partions. C drive 13.97 GB is full with only 2% freespace  D drive 92.81 GB having 87% freespace. How do I reallocate the size of these drives. Can this be done without reformatting or losing data.SURE. How much stuff is in the My Documents?
As you already know, MyDocuments is  another name of the document files folder folder being using by the user who is logged into the desktop. Each user has his own. The file contents can be relocated to another  folder, even on another drive. But first. prepare a directory on the other drive. Name it "MyStuff' or whatever you like.
Right Clack My Documents. Select properties. Click Move. select the new location. Let it move the documents into MyStuff, or whatever you call it.
The will include you r photo, your music. So I will really cut down on how much stuff you can on the C drive.
From now on that user will have his files on the other drive, but on the desktop is still SAYS "MyDocuments" and application programs will, in most cases, automatically look in the correct place for the files.Thanks for the info. I have already moved PICS and video to D drive and have moved some video programs (Click to DVD) and games to D drive. Was actually wondering if I could change the size of the drives by INCREASING GB on C and decreasing GB on D ?If using a sysstem that does not allow shirk partition, look here:

http://www.partition-tool.com/

The free program is good and mostly stable. Quote from: Laska on April 02, 2009, 06:09:22 PM

Click to open Computer Management.‌  ...

In the Navigation pane, under Storage, click Disk Management.

Right-click the volume you want to shrink, and then click Shrink Volume

Follow the instructions on your screen.

For detailed information on how to shrink a volume, open Disk Management, click Help on the menu bar, click Help Topics, click the Contents tab, click Disk Management: Welcome, click Manage Basic Volumes, and then click Shrink a Basic Volume.

If using a sysstem that does not allow shirk partition, look here:

http://www.partition-tool.com/

The free program is good and mostly stable.

I have a Hp Pavilion a1400e with an 80 GB hdd, 1.8 amd sempron 3000+ with 512 SHARED memory.  Just today when my brother was turning it on, it would GO to the windows boot screen, then to a bsod. Safe MODE, normal, last configuration that worked all got the same thing.  I got it to the hp recovery and ran PC-Doctor.  Everything was fine but the hard drive.  It failed the test.  So here's my question.  Should I just replace the hdd, or should I replace the whole computer?  It is old and pretty out of date.  I don't use it, my brother does.  He only wants to use internet, and low fps games.  When it was working, it could not handle the internet.  Also, how do you think I got to the recovery, which is on the hdd?  Because it failed all tests.  But the recovery still works.

Suggestions?
If the diagnostics your ran are the ones the manufacturer recommends, I would think the hard drive is on the way out. Now is your moment to take action.
If the PC is under warranty, call it in. Have serial # and service code at hand.

But if not, the HDD may still be under warranty.Five years or more. Do check with the support desk for you machine and see what they say about HDD replacement. Important: The is a reason to check with the support for your PC first. They nay have a story you want to hear before you contact the maker of the HDD.

In general, HP support is very good. If you can get to them. Low fps games.... you mean like 2 fps on combat arms?
Hdds are cheap... sata I think?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136195

Or  you could sell it and get a new one which is what I would dowell the computer had a 1 yr warranty, which expired, what, 3 years ago.  And it is ALWAYS slow.  Even after a FRESH reinstall.  Hook it up as a slave drive immediately and backup all important data...
Slave Drive Tutorial.]http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/]Slave Drive Tutorial.

You may not have too many chances...Something tells me he doesnt have any important data besides his brothers goat pr0n collection...... Quote

Something tells me he doesn't have any important data besides his brothers goat pr0n collection...

Hi everyone,
great place here. I hope I can get some help and also be of help, here and there.
So here's my problem. I'm using a light scribe DVD-Burner called LG HL-DT-ST DVDRRW GSA-4166B. I've been using it for a few years and never had any problems with it, through several computers. But lately whenever I burn a DVD-R with Nero the process stops at 79%. It says something like "target error". (I'm in Germany so the actual lange is German - not sure what the appropriate computer speak translation WOULD be) This happens every time now no matter what type of files I burn.

I tried uninstalling/reinstalling but nothing changes. Same with a restart. Also, I checked the IDE configuration and both my DVD-drives are on Ultra-DMA mode. I used to have some problems with DMA a few months ago when I noticed poor buffer levels while burning. Sure enough my burner would be on PCI for some reason but uninstalling/reinstalling fixed this. For now the buffer levels are at a healthy 96% but nonetheless the burning stops before its finished.

Anyone have an idea what this could be? Does Nero leave any error logs somewhere so maybe I could provide more information? Thanks and I appreciate any feedback.Quick question, what exactly are you burning?

Does this happen with all other files too?

Tried changing Discs?Yeah, I've used different discs and different types of files, but mostly movie files. I forgot to mention that everything lools ok in the device manager, no exclamation marks or anything.Try recording at a lower speed if you can.....Run as a sole task, Check task mgr list , close systray programs.....data source may be too slow. .....  Could defrag harddrive......or the burners gone south on you.Movie files? I wonder.....where did you acquire these movies?What do you mean with data source may be too low? I doubt that the problem is resources being drained because I encountered the error immediately after a restart when I had not run any other APPLICATIONS yet. I will try a slower speed. As for defrag I'm always hesitant to do that as from my experience it usually never helped with whatever problem I had. I'm always kinda afraid that it messes with my files. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on April 05, 2009, 08:35:33 AM

Movie files? I wonder.....where did you acquire these movies?

JJ 3000 I hooked up 4 120 gig seagates on the raid card and 1 could not be found whats the difference from raid 1 and and raid 5
Check this out
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID

Basically RAID5 is more reliable and provides more redundancy. RAID 5 distibutes data and parity info evenly across all of your drives. RAID 5 is the fastest and the most common implementation of RAID and it requires at least three drives. However a RAID 5 array will use about one drives Worth of space for parity (error correction). So if you have four 120 gig drives the effective storage capacity of your array will be about 360 gigs. But, if one of your drives fail, all of your data will still be intact.

RAID 1 mirroring will use the drive space differently. With a mirrored array you will only be able to use about 240 gigs of storage space. Plus mirroring is SLOW.

Quote from: jonl326 on March 24, 2009, 09:07:38 PM

JJ 3000 I hooked up 4 120 gig seagates on the raid card and 1 could not be found whats the difference from raid 1 and and raid 5

Did your card come with a CD?

All I am trying to do is make sure that if one fails all is not lost I am trying to learn autocad and I wont to make sure I don't loose anything My last system only had 1 hard drive and it died all was lost don't wont to go through that again

What is the difference between the flash memory storage CARDS SD & SDHC? The REASON I ask is because I have a Sat-Nav that says it takes up 4Gb SD cards. But as far as I can tell 4Gb SD cards are SDHC, now I have an 8GB SDHC and am totally confused as to whether it will work or not.

(I realise that this is a computer forum but if it makes anyone feel any better then I'll let you KNOW that my Sat-Nav runs on Windows CE [and therefore must be a computer :p ].SD is older- SDHC needs different logic control. an SDHC accepting device can take SD- if it does it will be labelled with SDHC. if it is just labelled with SD then you cannot use a SDHC CARD with it.Is there such a thing as a 4Gb SD card then?

*censored*?
http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?RAM-SDM8G

I thought that the point of SDHC was to break through a memory barrier?

Hi there

I'm having a problem with one of my systems which is a DELL OPTIPLEX GX260. It was running Windows XP Professional yesterday until today when I attempted to do a clean re-install of the OS. The reason I wanted to reinstall the OS is because the computer is second hand and I NOTICED a few ERRORS in the installation.

Anyway, I put the OS installation disk into the disk drive, changed the BIOS to boot from CD FIRST, got to the Windows XP Professional setup. It came to the part where it detects any partitions on the computer. It found the C partition where the old copy of the OS was. I deleted & formatted the partition but after doing this the Windows Setup came up with a message telling me that no hard drives were found on the system and to make sure all cables were connected and correctly setup in the BIOS. I know the cables and the setup in BIOS is going to be correct because it was working fine yesterday. The hard drive which is in this system is a Maxtor Diamondmax Plus 8 - 40Gb.

I also noticed in the BIOS, where it says Hard Drive it has beside it (Not Installed)

I would APPRECIATE if anyone could help me with this problem.

Thanks!



EDIT: I just found out that this hard drive requires a serial ata controller. Does anyone have the Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 8 serial ata controller that they could send me?You now have 3 threads going on the same issue...
The SATA drivers are available at Dell's site as has been suggested.
Topic Closed.

You guys were very helpful before, so here I am again.
My son's father in law needs to get a computer he can use for email and news.
Does anyone have any idea where I can locate a computer that can be used by an 85 year old man with Macular Degeneration?
Many thanks in advance.
Charcar 682My problem is not MG, but a similar problem.
I use regular desktop computers, but with a custom MAKE desk the lets me get closer to the screen. I have the most powerful reading glasses. In fact, I have different powers. I I see with just one eye.
The MICROSOFT Magnifier is very annoying. A better solution is two monitors. There are some programs that will let you use one as a magnifier and the other as the main monitor. I have a setup for that in my workshop.
One company that makes effective dual head video cards and software is Matrox.
Google for  Matrox G450 Dual Head
Or just go to the main site:
http://www.matrox.com/
They make so much stuff you may have  to struggle to find the software they offer. You may need to e-mail them about your needs. The even make an external box that lets you use a computer you already have to run their special software. You ADD a second monitor that can zoom to anyplace on the screen of the first monitor. The software can zoom up to 64X using hardware methods that work much better than some software only products.
Although I learned touch typing, I find that I have to have the keyboard elevated to help me check and see that I am on the home keys.
My VISION is 400/20, legally blind.I get on the computer every day. I LIKE to use Google Talk and just talk instead of writing.
Thanks Geek-9pm.
I'll run that by my daughter in law.

myCD/DVD only burns one song, then says to USE a  blank cd. Ihave nero and  intervideo  windvd creator and player it does the same THING on all including  media and  real player  I have GONE through 30 or more cds,dvd,cd-rcdrw,cdr'sdvdr's I always get this device is working  when CHECKING  device manager.l tried uploading  new drivers but couldn't  find freeware or  am unable to  upload what  I do find.  Sounds like your drive is dieing on you. Or your CD drive data cable is lose. OPEN you computer up and there should be a big wide cable pluged in to it or a red cable unplug it and plug it back in and if that does not work your cd drive is going out.

Hi.  I have a Dell Inspiron 9300 laptop which is about four years old.  Recently it has started spontaneously shutting down on me WITHOUT any prompting on my part.  The laptop is plugged in, so it's not a battery issue and the plug/outlet are fine.  I can restart the computer and everything appears to be ok, so I don't think there is a software issue.  Could it be my internal fan?  That is, the computer is getting too hot (the fan is awfully loud, but always has been) and just shuts itself off?  How bad is the problem, and how much longer do I have with this computer?

Thanks,

KellyThat could be an issue, with the fan, make sure its seated correctly as WELL as the heatsinc, but normally what I've found is that if your fan is loud, alot of times its dirty and needs to be BLOWN out.  Hopefully this will help.1. Right-click My Computer, and then click Properties.
2. Click the Advanced tab (Vista: click Advanced system settings).
3. Under Startup and Recovery, click Settings to open the Startup and Recovery dialog box.
4. Clear the Automatically restart check box, and click OK the necessary number of times.
5. Restart your computer for the settings to take effect.

You may be able to see some error mesage.

Navigate to: C:\Windows\Minidump folder.
If you see any .dmp files, zip all of them, and attach zipped file to your next reply.

I'm not exactly sure if I did this correctly, but attached please find the .dmp zip files.  Good luck, and thank you so much for your help, Broni!

Kelly

[attachment deleted by admin]Did you follow the first part of my advice?

Unfortunately, your dmp files won't help, because they're old STORY. Two of them are from 2006, and the other one is from 2008.

I have an old computer that I was under the impression the video card was going bad (because my Dad's games would not run correctly, SUDDEN SHUT downs) so I bought a new video installed it and then BROUGHT it to the shop cause it was still doing the same thing. The guys there said my Windows 2000 NT was bad(?) so they wiped out EVERYthing (I HOPE, would like to know how to check!?) Installed Windows XP and AVG and when I got it home all 10 times I start it up and it said AVG was not correct and needed to be updated. Updated AVG and the updated XP and started crashing again and again and again. I deleted the AVG and tried to just update windows xp service pack 3. It was going through to the explorer 7 update then CRASHED! Now i cannot boot into ANYTHING! Guys at the shop never gave me a cd to try to boot off of and my laptop is Vista! $300.00 later they are telling me it MIGHT be a bad hard drive? How can I get into the system to check? I dont want to waste anymore time and money on some guys GUESSING!!!! I was also thinking my Dad might have changed something in the CMOS? Is there a standard setup list I can try to check? I reset the defaults would that fix it if it was changed?

I can only tell you that at the boot menu it is: Atholon XP-125 Ghz. AMD, 256 RAM, Geforce FX5200 bios.

HELP ME PLEASE! GOING CRAZY!  under CMOS there should be a tab that lets you conduct a harddrive test to let you know atleast if thats the problem.  Good luckI dont have tabs? Thanks anyway.  Resetting BIOS should do it, if there were any changes.

Did you try to boot into Safe Mode?
What exactly happens, when you turn computer on?

Run hard drive diagnostics: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287

You also need more RAM.I cant even get to safe mode! I can get to the Windows XP loading and then reboots. Can I run hard drive Diagnostics from the boot menu?
Thanks!  Hard drive diagnostic tool will allow you to make bootable CD.If the Shop did not include an official XP CD in that 300.00 price you need to pursue that avenue...
Tell them the folks at Microsoft said it is required.

will a GeForce 9500 GT 512MB DDR2 PCIe 2.0 Graphics Card work on an un modified Compaq Presario SR5610F computer? Have you tried it?I suppose.
]

But you have to make SURE there are the slots and the power supply can support it. You suppose?? I don't get it? Have you googled it?i'm thinking about buying it but i cant tell if it will work or notI looked it up and it does have a PCI Express slot, the question is whether you power supply can handle it. I can't find any information about the power supply in your computer.

Can you open it up and post the information on the power supply's label? I have a compaq SR1630NX computer with a 300W PSU, I have installed extra ram so a total of 2.75 ram is in, a 9500GT is in and I have 2 dvd R/W drives and I have the Athlon64 venice processor. All working fine. 

For you ... Power supply for your computer is 250W according to HP official website. I THINK you should be able to run the nvidia 9500GT in your system , as 9500GT's only require power coming from the PCI-E slot but do check what the 12V rail voltage is for your PSU. This is only if you are replacing the integrated graphics and doing nothing else really really heavy duty.how do i check the 12v rail voltage?If you open up your computer (the side door, which is most likely screwed with a thumb screw), look at the label of the PSU.

http://www.svc.com/powersupplyguide.html describes how you go understanding your power supply label and what all the stuff means.

For instance, I have a 300W PSU with a 12V rail voltage rating of 19A. You'd PROBABLY want something around that but if you have anything really lower, then I'd change the PSU to be safe.i think the thing said +12V-14A

This particular computer is using Pheonix Bios. During POST, I am getting 1 long, 2 short beeps as well as no feedback to the monitor which indicates a GRAPHICS card failure presumably, but I am suspicious of a motherboard failure as well.

I DISCONNECTED everything except MOBO, proc,1 stick of ram, and gpu and GOT the same code. Then, I went through all the ram slots (there are 4 on this mobo), and found 2 slots that give a different code which is infinitely repeating long beep. With the gpu disconnected I get the same 1 long 2 short beeps.

Based on this, I'm not sure if I can condemn the gpu or not because of the problems I seem to be having with the motherboard as well. Seems LIKE it may be both the gpu and the mobo. I may be able to borrow a compatible known good gpu, but I don't want to risk frying it if the problem is in the mobo itself.

Any further tests or suggestions would be much appreciated.

P.S. Powersupply is also a known good.
You may want to look this list over.....

http://www.pchell.com/hardware/beepcodes.shtml#phoenix


I have all that on paper sitting in front of me.
Check your capacitors for bulges or leaks onto the motherboard.....Seeing a lot of this issue lately and its replace the caps or replace the motherboard. Caps have the + on top.

I am new to this SITE and not sure where to turn.
I work on Windows XP
My computer is an HP Pavillion 525W
My printer is an HP Deskjet 9800
For some reason today my printer will not print.  I have no error lights on the printer.
I have followed all of the troubleshooting tips that were offered in the printer software but nothing has worked.  I even tried uninstalling and reinstalling.  I have 2 printers connected to the same computer and I checked the other one also and it will not print either but I didn't go through all of the troubleshooting tips on the second one.
The only thing I have done differently today was to install some AUTOMATIC updates from windows so I don't know if that has something to do with it.  Any ideas on what else I can try?  I haven't had it very long and don't print on it OFTEN so I have a hard time thinking it could be broken.  Thanks for any help you can give me.  I tried to look in the search screens but didn't see anything that sounded similar.A few things.
You were/are using XP Pro with SP2?
The printers used to work?
Did you upgrade to SP3? CRight Click My Computer and select properties. It should show which service pack yo have.

Now then, if you have SP3 now, and you had SP2 before, let's focus on the SP3 #$%* thing.

In some cases Service Pack 3 will cause problems. This has been documented by both Microsoft and HP. Each, of course, blames the other.click
You should have a way of doing an UN install of SP3. A restore point is not enough. SP3 has a specific UN install thing.

Check on the HP site to FIND if your printers were the ones affected by SP3.

The problem is widespread.

http://forums.cnet.com/5208-6142_102-0.html?forumID=5&threadID=277576&messageID=2664591

http://www.techsupportforum.com/hardware-support/printer-support/342067-windows-xp-sp3-will-not-acknowledge-my-printer.html

Sorry I can't give you specific advice, it can be rough to UN install SP3. It ruined one install I have on an older machine.

Is the solid state hard drive faster at reading and writing then the VelociRaptor?

Example http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820161316

VS

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822136296 Unfortunately both above links are broken because you've copied the short versions (notice the ... in the links) may want to use tinyurl when posting long links. However, the basic short answer to your question is YES. Usually a SDD HDD is going to be faster than even a 10,000RPM hard disk drive as well as more quiet. However, that being said you NEED to also CONSIDER the current cost and size of the SDD. Today all SDD are going to be dramatically more expensive than a traditional HDD and a lot smaller. So unless you've got money to spare, not that concerned about the lack of disk storage you can go SDD.

I've recently been working on a new system and had this same question and ended up going with a 10,000 RPM hard disk drive as apposed to a SDD. It's getting to be more affordable but I think it's still too much of a luxury item at this time. However, as more drives become available I'm sure it's going to be a lot more affordable and there will be larger drives.

p.s. if you Google the drives you can usually find comparison review sites for most SDD drives compared to a traditional HDD.IN terms of efficientcy and speed, the SSD will beat the 10,000 RPM in terms of read speed.

And SSDs are more ROBUST, and emits less heat, which means that they are more durable than a 10,000 RPM harddrive.

IN addition, standard spin harddrives will also eventually degrade over time.

BUT. SSD are helluva more expensive. So, depending on your budget and your needs.

tinyurl Graphics CARDS Power Chart
I found this on the Internet in a Google search and put it into a tiny URL:
http://tinyurl.com/Graphics-Cards-Power-Chart
You have to enlarge it to read it. Looks to be helpful when there is a QUESTION about power general consumption, idle power, peak power and all that stuff.Wow, there's a HUGE DIFFERENCE going from top to bottom or vice versa.  Thanks for posting that.

Quote from: richiehughes on March 29, 2009, 10:00:09 AM

Well, seems to be working! Windows setup is detecting the hard drive and installing windows!

Thanks everyone

Now installed Windows XP Pro and running SMOOTH as ever! 

Intel or AMD, which is actually the best? Both brands have web pages and news articles claiming superiority over the other, no doubt though that the articles and charts are almost all biased towards either company.

So which processor is the best? I.e. which provides: the most processes per watt, a REASONABLE thermal output, the most stability, the most compatibility, the most power, the best value for money, etc.I'm not the one to ask, but I would think it depends on what specific processors you WANT to compare.
I don't think we can compare two companies like that.Well, in terms of durability, AMD is not as durable

IN terms of cache and things like that, AMD processors tend to haver lower cache sizes

But, of course, AMD processors are cheaper
Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on March 30, 2009, 06:20:31 AM

I'm not the one to ask, but I would think it depends on what specific processors you want to compare.
I don't think we can compare two companies like that.

Well, in terms of durability, AMD is not as durable

IN terms of cache and things like that, AMD processors tend to haver lower cache sizes

But, of course, AMD processors are cheaper

I have seen many an argument started with a subject like this

I like the older AMD processors. AMD K6-2 in my old PC.

unfortunately it probably needs a better heatsink/fan. Duke Nukem 3d seems to somehow bring it's temp to 80 degrees celsius. Only program that does, oddly enough.

In General, the Intel Core 2 Duo and Intel Core 2 Quad are a decent bit better than AMD's offerings, however the Phenom II Quad Core chip is great for the money.

...opinions of thousands of fanboys brainwashed by the notion that Intel, being in the game so long, is better then AMD...

Who said I was an Intel fanboy? I build many computers with both Intel and AMD processors. (My current main computer has a Phenom II 940, and my HTPC has a Athlon X2 BE-2350 in fact.)

At this point in time Intel is the way to go....
Expect that to change soon as it always does.

I used my computer this morning and i came home from work and tried to use it again but it keeps saying the monitor is on power save mode. I tried moving the mouse, using the keyboard, turning the monitor off and on, unplugging it, turning off the tower etc. I switched to 3 different monitors along with switching between the video input on the MOTHERBOARD and the video card(custom built so i have 2 ports) and still cant get it running. What could be wrong?Clear CMOS. Remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard for 10-15 minutes, then place it back in there.


There might also be a clear CMOS jumper on your motherboard. Check your manual.
Make sure you are grounded before touching any internal components. Static electricity can fry your motherboard!yea i did that along with removing the video card and starting it for 2mins then turning it off. When i did that also for fun since my computer was having a hard time turning on i changed power supplies and now it works so i dont know what it was.  Only thing tho is the NEW power SUPPLY, the main connection that goes to the motherboard only has 20pins where as the old one has 24pins. will that make a difference and how do i know for sure if its plugged into the right spot or does it not matter? I MEAN its running and im using it right now.Well it is possible to use the twenty pin connector on your motherboards twenty-four pin port. However, this is risky as the board will be underpowered (especially if you have an AMD CPU). This could lead to several problems regarding you boards stability and overall performance of your machine.

What happens if you put the old power supply back in?
If that the old PSU was the cause of your problem, then you should start looking for a new one.

 yea im not sure what cpu i have as my cousin built this computer and i bought it from him, all i know is its a 2.93ghz haha. My old power supply is dead i think. When i would PLUG it in my computer would turn on for a sec and shut off, i couldnt even use the power button to turn on. With the new power supply i have no problem turning on or off.  Im looking right now for a new power supply but not sure what exactly i need. Not sure of the brand of the old one but the model number is win-400psMake sure that new one has the twentyfour pin connector. Don't get some cheap thirty dollar special. This is one of the most important components in your computer, so don't' get cheap. You need one of equal or grater wattage than the old one.Thanks for helping out. Will all power supplies have the same amount of connectors? and what are the benifits of getting a more powerfull power supply?

I've done a minor upgrade to a friends old computer, but it didn't seem to be a big priority to update the power supply because it already had a decent 20-Pin power supply in it. I can't REMEMBER the exact model but I BELIEVE it is an Antec 400 watt.

Would a GeForce 7600GS work fine without a 20+4 connector? As I understand some cards require this, while other cards do not.

This is the card I'm talking about: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500032I THINK it willAnyone have a second opinion? If the picture is correct then that card doesn't need the expansion power connector.Fair enough. I'll go ahead and order it. Thanks guys. This isnt for gaming is it?No, not any major gaming anyway. The girl this is for is more into photo editing, and she works with some large images, so she needs enough VRAM so the image she's working on fits in the framebuffer.

Any gaming she does will be pretty basic. She plays UT2004, and the onboard GeForce 6100SE is a miserably choppy with it at her LCD's default resolution of 1440x900 , but it'll be fine with this, since UT2004 doesn't have too high requirements. if you have NOT yet purchased a GRAPHICS card, you might consider getting a series 8 or 9 graphics card from Nvidia. Those can support physX through the latest nvidia graphics card drivers and I  that UT2004 -- that's unreal tournament right? -- can take USE of physX technologies so she gets better graphics.GeForce 7600GS
On other forums people are saying that they have some problem with power on this card. It may be a 'feature' of the card.
Maybe the card works at low power, but with less performance.
Hard to get a up front answer from the maker and the vendors.

this is my first post i am running a WINDOWS xp sp3 based pc that has a celeron d 3.20 ghz processor an msi ms-7033 915pm mobo with 2gig memory and no on board video. i purchased a pny gforce 8400 gs pci graphic card with 512mb ddr2 memory. all drivers and software are as current as i could GET from their manufacturers
the system seems to be running ok with games such as half LIFE and half life 2 but when i go to the demo programs from nvidia(graphic cpu manufacturer) they run extremely slow like one frame every couple of seconds .
i would like to know if this is a hardware conflict or is it something else?
the graphic card processor starts heating up when i even watch videos and runs between 110 and 120 degrees but normaly runs at about 95 at idle
i would appreciate any HELP on this issue

thanksTry cleaning your video card. Sometimes too much dust causes some parts of the CPU to OVERHEAT. Hope this helps you my friend.thanks for the reply
the video card is straight out of the box brand newTry testing on a different computer to see the results. If same as main pc, then probably graphics card may be having issues.

hey guys just wanted to say thanks for the suggestions
i just found out that the problem is an issue between the nvidia demos and windows xp

thanks again

My floppy drive doesn't seem to be working - anyone KNOW why?  The error I'm getting is:
"The floppy DISK controller reported an error that is not recognized by the floppy disk driver."

I haven't used my floppy drive for a while - only using it now because I'm trying to create a boot disk with BIOS updates.  Any ideas?  thanks!

Deb

CHECK your CMOS battery. (Take it out, test it with a volt meter, put it back.)
 Check the settings in the BIOS for the floppy drive type.
Should be a 3.5 inch 1.44 MB drive.
And look at your Floppies.
Are thy all the same type? Cant you format an old floppy? 
You may be trying to use floppies that are for a MAC, not a PC.
Or, the floppy drive may have just gone bad.And check the cabling...
They are relatively CHEAP to replace.thanks for the help!  I LOADED a Windows update which fixed the problem if I use newer floppies.  It won't recognize the older floppies - Windows XP apparently doesn't work with some real old floppy disks.

I have an HP Pavilion a1742n, dual core Athlon, vista a year and a half old. The problem started with the screen locking that looked like tiny wallpaper of what was on the screen at the time. Did this twice in a few days and the next time I turned it on the fans run on high and the LIGHTS on the front LIGHT but the  monitor never turns on. First I tried a graphics card vs on board, no change. Then swapped out the power supply and tested the monitor on another PC and it works fine. Tried the HARD drive in another PC, works fine. Tried booting with no ram, no beeps nothing from motherboard. Tried unplugging the media card readers,  no change. I am thinking either the motherboard or processor or both. I would guess its the motherboard.

Do you have a warranty on the machine?

No warranty.
If I replace the motherboard with the same brand/model, will I have to reinstall vista and lose all the data on hard drive?

i just GOT a IDE to USB connector so i can access files on my other comps HDD SINCE that comp is broken right now. I plugged it in and it installed what it needed and i have the safely remove HARDWARE icon in the task bar but i cannot for the life of me find the hard drive in my computer. Im using vista business. Thanks!Go to run (or DOS prompt) and type: CompMgmtLauncher. Click on storage then disk management in the tree table on the left. This will display any disks that the motherboard can detected. This should give you the option of activating the drive on WINDOWS.

DO NOT ALLOW WINDOWS TO FORMAT THE DRIVE TO ENABLE THE DRIVE. YOU WILL PERMANENTLY LOOSE ANY DATA ON THAT DISK!

A friend was getting rid of some office equipment they no longer needed and gave me an Epson Stylus CX7400 printer. After installing the drivers and hooking it up as per instructions (Power on printer, install drivers connect to USB port) and it seems to be working fine as far as that goes. But the printer was SHOWING that all of the ink cartridges were empty and needing to be replaced.

I made note of the type required (Epson 69 or Epson 88) and bought all new cartridges (total of four) I followed all the directions to install them (Shake 4-5 times before opening vacuum sealed pouch, remove yellow tab, insert and press down till it clicks, close lockbar and close printer) The printer now shows the BLACK ink as mostly full but the CYR cartridges as empty still. So I followed the help to make sure they are reseated. It was still showing that they are empty (tried REBOOTING as WELL)

So i took out the new ones and reinstalled the old ones and it suddenly read them as being Low, but not empty. I did a nozzle clean and then printed the test page. The CYR printed with the red missing a portion, but no black. I did the clean again as per instructed and repeated the test and again the cyan and yellow printed correctly the red was showing missing spots and no black.

I tired printing a photo and the colors were off (blues were dark enough, reds were dark, I think too dark, yellows washed out, and the blacks came out grey. I printed just plain black text and got a blank page. After that I tried to print a test page but it started telling me the cyan (old cartridge) was empty. And so I replaced them all with the new cartridges I bought. and it is STILL saying they are empty.

Can anyone help? How do I get the printer to realize that the new cartridges (bought at a big name PC store, in Epson packaging straight from the manufacturer) are not empty?Meant to add, I did a check for driver updates and it says it has the LATEST drivers

Early this morning my daughter was on the computer, she got up from it for a few MINUTES, came back the computer was SHUT down automatically.  When you push the power button on the front of the computer the lights come on, the fans start and it shuts right back down.  About a month ago I got message that it was overheating.  I took it apart removed all 3 fans, cleaned then real well, DUSTED the computer inside and it has been working perfectly until this happened this morning.  Can someone please give me some idea what may be going on.  I can not afford to take it to the computer fixers AROUND here, they are expensive.Yeah, this happened to a friend of MINE. She had to replace the Power Supply.

I have an LCD HP 1740 monitor that comes on for a SPLIT second and then SHUTS off again, any suggestions on what to do besides take it OUTI think we might need just a little more information on this ONE. Would you mind explaining your problem with just a LOT more detail?

So, here's the story. A few weeks back, I had posted on the forums that my computer was not booting. I got some help from someone, who asked me to follow up. Unfortunately, I came down with an illness which caused me to lose my memory, so I can't remember what my forum name was and I neglected to respond to him until someone reminded me.

So, I called up the support line today, and they told me to take everything out and put it back in one by one until something broke. However, the problem MAY have ended up being what I thought it was all along! Strangely enough, the KEYBOARD. I was told that it was impossible for the keyboard to prevent the entire computer from booting, but the hundreds of keyboard failure messages in the BIOS told me otherwise. The Keyboard Failure message was appearing WITHOUT a keyboard installed. Since I'm no computer hardware expert (only experienced with software) I won't jump to conclusions, though. Upon taking EVERYTHING out, the computer booted up to this message:

Drive 0 not found: Serial ATA, SATA-0
Drive 4 not found: Parallel ATA, PATA-0 (PRI IDE Master)
Drive 5 not found: Parallel ATA, Pata-1 (PRI IDE Slave)
Keyboard Failure

If it isn't the keyboard, why is it showing this without any keyboard installed, and continues to show it no matter what keyboard IS installed? I've tried in excess of 15 keyboards, since people keep telling me the keyboard is faulty - unless 15 keyboards (which all work properly in other computers) are all broken, I believe the problem is with the computer, not the keyboard. However, again, although I'm 90% sure it has something to do with the keyboard, I obviously do not want to jump to conclusions, as I am no expert as I have previously stated.

In addition, I'd like to note that I installed each piece of hardware as instructed (ignoring the fact that it was showing the Keyboard Failure message), and that message continued to appear until I installed the hard drive, at which point it stopped showing any errors and went into another infinite reboot cycle - posting a Keyboard Failure message in the BIOS every time. Also, it's been saying keyboard failure intermittently for long before it started this "Infinite Reboot Cycle" crap, but now it's showing it every single boot in the bios right when the second the computer reboots.

What piece of hardware could be causing something as strange as this? Is it really something to do with the keyboard, or some other hardware piece causing the wrong error message? Some assistance would be appreciated.

Thank you for your time in advance,

- BaRRYour hard drive is not being detected in the BIOS...
Unhook all drives except for the main drive and re-boot...
If it still does not show up it may have failed completely or the Windows install is corrupted.
Post back with your findings... Quote from: PATIO on March 31, 2009, 04:44:57 PM

Your hard drive is not being detected in the BIOS...

Drive 0 not found: Serial ATA, SATA-0
Drive 4 not found: Parallel ATA, PATA-0 (PRI IDE Master)
Drive 5 not found: Parallel ATA, PATA-1 (PRI IDE Slave)

Drive 4 not found: Parallel ATA, PATA-0 (PRI IDE Master)
Drive 5 not found: Parallel ATA, PATA-1 (PRI IDE Slave)
Keyboard Failure
Strike F1 to retry or F2 to enter Diagnostic Mode

The PS/2 port for your keyboard may be no longer working off your motherboard.

Check your keyboard status in Device Manager for any yellow exclamation marks. Expand + Keyboards and right click on properties then resources and check for to see if you have any conflicts. Try the troubleshooter as well.

The PS/2 port will sometimes fail and won't give any indication of failure in Device Manager, so be aware of this.

Try a USB keyboard to eliminate the PS/2 port as a source of problems if you haven't done so already.

BaRR,

I did find this....."If you replace the keyboard with another, or if the original keyboard is tested on another PC and it works there, this implicates either the keyboard controller chip or the motherboard itself."

http://www.pcguide.com/ts/x/comp/kb_Failure.htm

I have had keyboard failure messages in the past and yet never had a keyboard failure as the end result.

Enabling the Gate-A20 line is one of the first steps a protected mode X86 operating system does in the bootup process, often before control has been passed onto the kernel from the bootstrap (in the case of Linux, for example).

Title starts with the problem. The FSB on this new comp is 800 mhz. 2 gigs of ddr2 ram.  Processor is 2.8 gigahertz and hyp[erthreaded. Im using the SAME nvidia 5200 card on this comp that I was using on my AMD. I thought this was going to be a huge upgrade for me. I know I need a new vid card but thats besides the point.
    I cant remember exactly the specs oin my amd just that it had 1.3 gigs of ram. It was around a 2 giogahertz processor.  It was freaking able to run 2 copies of world of warcraft at once. even 3 I believe.  I never thought it was a very fats computer but I though tthis one being a p4 with hyper threading and 2 gigsa of ram anbd what not was going to be much faster. why is it so slow??

It cant run any game. Same problem with eveyr game. Eve Online, WOW, Warhammer, Guild Wars they all do the same *censored* thing. They load up but like keep pausing for a couple seconds every 2-3 seconds until they are unplayable. I have tried all DIFFERENT graphix setting combos and have tweaked this computer. no spyare/viruses.

So my quesiton is what the *censored* is the deal? Why was a $80 old AMD machine I didnt think was worth a *censored* able to run so many programs even PVP lake wintergrasp / arena in wow / raid yet this new comp which should be faster cant even load it up? And same vid card just more ram / should be faster processor.

Please any help appreciated I spent $180 on this which for me is a lot and I thought I was temporarily solving my problems. Now im ou the money and Ill have to spend at leatsa another $250 to build SOMETHING top run warhammer and I dont have that kinda money so Id rlly like to learn what makes this one run so much slower than an older system that I used to have anyone with GOOD computer knowledge please help me thank you.Not 'nuf info. Why do you say it is slow? On a game? On the internet? Slow to boot? Do you have a standard speed test?
With a new MoBo you HAVE to have the right drivers for everything to get any performance at all. For example, wrong drivers for the chip set slows down the hard drive I/O  a bunch.
Or you could have a bad MoBo right out of the box. Quote from: Geek-9pm on March 28, 2009, 09:14:49 PM

Not 'nuf info. Why do you say it is slow? On a game? On the internet? Slow to boot? Do you have a standard speed test?
With a new MoBo you HAVE to have the right drivers for everything to get any performance at all. For example, wrong drivers for the chip set slows down the hard drive I/O  a bunch.
Or you could have a bad MoBo right out of the box.

I know I need a new vid card but thats besides the point.

With games it is everything! If there is anything wrong with the video card you will never get speed.
Is the new machine an off the shelf Box from a Box store? On is this a home built machine. And what Operating system?

Did you reinstall Windows when you changed the system?
Did you install all the correct drivers and updates?
A P4 at 2.8GHz is almost certainly slower than an AMD at 2Ghz anyway, but the performance drop shouldn't be this big.

If your puter is running a P4 2.8 H/T with a 800 FSB your MB is a socket 775 which supports PCIexpress16x1. I googled your video card & it supposedly supports AGP & PCIEx16. Have you switched over from onboard video to add on video card in your BIOS? Tried reseating your card & if your card has a PS connection is it connected? Have you downloaded current drivers for your card?

Looking at the motherboard and doing a diagnostic shows it only has an AGP slot unfortfunantly.  My videocard is an nvidia 5200 PCI.  I can't sit that in an AGP slot can I?  Its in a PCI slot right now.  The BIOS settings should all be correct it automatically goes for the AGP and if no AGP then it goes to the PCI slot and I keep the ATI graphics card(the noboard crappy one) disabled.  Not sure about the Power Supply connection I would definantly have to check that out.  What would happen if it was not hooked up? There is one odd thing I have noticed.
     The fan on the videocard has not been spinning I don't thionk and it may have started recently. Also When I run RivaTuner and use its hardwqare monitoring it says my core clock GPU is running at 100 mhz when it should be running at 250 mhz, but when I run another nvidia diagnostic program it says the clock is rnning at 250 so I really don't know which one is correct. If it is only running at 100 that would be my problem

See the thing is I used to run WOW on a computer that had less ram, same vid card, and a lesser than CPU. I thought this computer would run it no prob but it can't. Anytime I run a game like WOW it just keeps pausing / freezing evey 3-4 seconds.  One time I screwed around with some forceware hardwrae lvl settings on my vid card and I actually got WOW to run smoothly for a little while but since than it has stopped. I dont understand half of those rlly complicated directx / open GL hard ware level video settings you find in the rivatuner / special nvidea programs so I don't really knowq what to set. I try to optimize it for performance as best as I can.

anyone KNOW why a computer would turn on by itself?

My mom has a dial-up connection and Windows XP installed.  She's been having some power issues, it seems.  She would press the power button to power on her computer.....It will come on for a few seconds and then shutdown....sometimes the computer will stay on like it is suppose to, and sometimes it will not...........surrounding this issue, she also claims that her computer will automatically power on byitself.

I looked at it the computer briefly, attemting to narrow out the POSSIBILITY of a bad surge protector OR bad wall outlet.  I plugged the PC into ANOTHER outlet and the problem seems to be corrected...

However, I'm still curious as to why a her computer would automatically power on, given the circumstances... Theres a setting in either the BIOS or the properties that you can uncheck, it basically says that the computer will restart everytime a problem is detected.I found it, right click my computer and select properties, select the advanced tab and click  startup  and recovery.  It should be under system failure.  Good luck Quote

My mom has a dial-up connection

many motherboards will modem activity and power up the computer. This is a setting in the BIOS, I forget the name, but it should have a descriptive name. (the LAN equivalent is "wake on lan").

"wake on lan"

Hi I stumbled upon a topic from 2007 which relates to me but it wasn't resolved   .
 I would therefore like to re-post the original which was :
"ok, it started two weeks ago, and wasn't very frequent. didn't do it when sound was playing (game, music, movie, etc.) but when speakers were on with nothing playing, they would start to crackle occasionally after a while. i thought it was just the speakers dying out, they're pretty old. anyway, i was just CURIOUS and i hooked up my roommates speakers and had the same problem. I downloaded new drivers for my sound card (Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 2 Platinum) and it got worse. its now a constant static/crackling whether there's sound playing or not. I have no idea what is causing this and can't seem to find answers anywhere. I checked for virus, spyware, adware, etc. and nothing. thats probably not it anyway, but i got nothing. If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated"
 The ONLY difference is that I have  the Audigy 2 ZS card.
 Please help!!! Try to use your cellphone close to the speaker and send a message to your friend and someone else, see what will happen to the speaker.I had a SIMILAR mystery- turned out to be mostly my wireless controller. the rest correlated with network ACTIVITY, so I moved the NIC and sound card to reduce interference- dead silent now.

I have been cloning drive with JUMP drives that were already formated. All the drives you get now are SATA.
My old computer is PATA so I bought a 250g hard drive. I forgot to format this drive before cloning it. It now shows up as an 80 gig hard drive. Is there any way to get this drive back to the way it was when I got it? I contacted WD and they said to write zeros to the drive which I did but it only did the 80 gig.DLoad the Data Lifeguard Tools from WD.
Thet can write zeroes...partition...resize and format a drive,Thank you for the reply. I have that program, I'm not saying it won't fix my drive but I can't get it to see anything but 80 gig. But then if I were smart I wouldn't be asking for help.Easus Partition Manager

The Home Edition is FREE and works great.
Best of Luck...and let us know.

NOTE: All data will be erased so backup.I downloaded easus and tried for 2 days and it still only sees 80 gig. Maybe some old dos program will fix it. I guess it is a lost battle. Thank you for your help.There's a possibility that the drive was actually an 80 gig hard drive, but labeled as 250 gig. This seems to be a scam that happens every once in a while. Also, if you purchased it at a store, someone may have swapped the two drives out to get the 250 gig at a cheaper price for themselves. If the drive was actually broken, it would just not show up, or show as 0 bytes. It should NEVER show as a smaller size than labeled unless it was a FAKE/swapped. In addition, 80 gigabytes is a valid hard drive size, so this just further adds to the CHANCE it was fake or swapped.

Sometimes, they include a file on the hard drive that makes the drive look like a larger size to the OS, so when you formatted it, you may have removed this file and caused it to show its true size.

I had a BREAKER blow in my house the other day and when i went to start my computer up again it WOULD not start. i have tried everything. i have unhooked everything I have amost taken the WHOLE thing apart. I have a Dell Dimension E510 the start button blinks an amber color and the light on the mother BOARD is green. i have tried everyting that i can think of. I just want to know if this PC is shot or if there is any hope to save it with out spending to much cash.probably the powersupply if I had to guessI had similar problem and i had to buy a new RAM memory, it might be the same to you.
Cheers.Unplug the PSU and toggle the small RED POWER switch a few times.
Plug it back in and power up.

Does this machine have a PCI modem card installed ? ?
If so remove it.

I really don't know which section this belongs to since I haven't ISOLATED the problem yet. I'd like to get a proper diagnosis before I decide on what to do. This problem started late December.

My PC is a HP Media Center M7664x with Athlon 64x2 4200+, 300 GB HD, 2 GB RAM.

1. Computer would randomly freeze after (or shortly after) desktop loads.

2. Later, it would freeze whenever it felt like it (playing game, going online, just clicking on a link, or even when I'm not doing anything). Nothing works, but I can move my mouse.

3. Sometimes when it freezes, the harddrive light would light up like it was doing something, but no clicking sounds. The light would turn on maybe a minute later.

4. At first, forcing it to shut down and then restarting usually help, but that too isn't fool proof.

5. As the freezing got worse, restarting also caused issues. The computer would just not get pass the Windows XP loading screen (I assume that's the loading screen. It's black with the logo and a blue bar moving on the bottom). The harddrive light would light up too, but no clicking SOUND. It would even freeze when starting in Safe Mode.

6. I tried to format the harddrive, and it once even froze during that, and I had to go through all the trouble of using the disks to restore everything. Before the destructive restore, I tried a non-destructive, and the computer froze during the backup file process. The funny thing is that the magnifying glass would still rotate like it was doing something.

7. Things would settle down after the destructive restore for about a month, but then it would start up again.

8. I once even got a "Master Boot Error" on start up (without freezing).

9. Many repeated attempts with Hewlett Packard's online tech-support failed to solve the issue. Finally, one guy told me to unhook the SATA cables, then reattach them and perform another destructive restore.

10. I did that, and once I start up my computer, I get a "Code Purple" error that forced me to send the PC in for repairs. The problem was something about the Motherboard Tattoo being incorrect, whatever that means.

11. It's been about a month after the repairs and now the issue is starting again. I also saw another master boot error.

I've done some BASIC testing myself using the Bios (or whatever) scan to scan the harddrive for errors. I even used PC Doctor to do a harddrive scan, but all of them says the harddrive is functioning perfectly. It could be a virus, I mean, destructive restore did fix it for a while, but I've done a virus scan with Avast, and found some minor adware in there, nothing too threatening. Computer froze again today. Then there's the issue with the motherboard from before. Some are suspecting I need that replaced. Some say it might be a CPU overheating, because if the PC freezes upon a restart, it'll correct itself if I leave it off for 10-15minutes. Still, that doesn't explain how I could run some CPU intensive stuff earlier with 0 problems. It's really hard to pinpoint and I don't know what to do. Well, I could pay HP 50 bucks for a checkup, but many people says it's a rip-off. I'd like to get to the bottom of this before I decide on my next move.Do You have more than one Anti-Virus Application running ?
How long have you had this machine ?Does this get to you?
If you like the machine. go buy a replacement. Pay for a good service plan
Then advertise your old computer at a bargain price. Get rid of it.
Put it behind you and you will feel better. It is not your job to diagnose the odd failures. If something would just go up in smoke it would be easy.
The motherboard on the machine is bad, but not the kind of bad like burnt out. It has one of those early production defects that happen whenever there is a change in the design, assembly, testing or something like that.
Yes, I am making a guess. But this happens much more often than you want to know. Every notice how some PCs have FOUR or five minor versions of the same motherboard? Sounds like overheating to me; or perhaps a bad PSU.After the computer freezes and you have to hard RESET, check the BIOS for the CPU temperature (usually F2 or delete during the RAM and drive loading). Alternatively you can use SIW to monitor system temperatures in Windows provided you can start Windows. The temperature shouldn't be over 80 degrees Celsius.

If that checks out try the SeaTools program to make sure that the drive is healthy. Failing that then I agree with BC_Programmer, try a different power supply (PSU).

System Information for Windows (SIW): http://www.gtopala.com/

SeaTools: http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools

Hi all
I have a big problem .This morning  when I start to open my PC.It doesn't power on.
So I try to change another Power Supply which is good but It is Ok while I do not join power cable at HDD.When I join the power cable at the HDD,this power supply does not work . maybe a case of overload? what HW did you recently add to your system?

give more hardware details about your systemMaybe HDD is broken.
Quote from: dud_pod on March 23, 2009, 03:56:14 AM

maybe a case of overload? what HW did you recently add to your system?

give more hardware details about your system

Hello again,
I'm running a laptop with Vista Business.
 I bought an LG MONITOR and connected so I can run 2 screens. I need the LG on the left SIDE. I go into DISPLAY settings and drag the icons so that the #1 is on the RIGHT, and #2 is on the left. Click on Apply.
  It stays set until I shut down. Every day I have to reset it.
  Am I missing something?
  Jim

I have a Logitech Model # M-RBB93 bluetooth mouse and I use it with my Dell Inspiron 9400 laptop running vista.

The PROBLEM I have is it looses it's connection whenever I try to play a game. All other activities it works fine. Any program that runs in Windows (I can minimize it or resize the window) runs fine. But as soon as I start a game, it looses its connection. If I close the lid (put it to sleep) and then reopen the lid, the mouse works again until I try to run a game again.

I updated the dell wireless 350 bluetooth module drivers, but it did not help. 

Any suggestions?Bump 1 timeThere is only one thing that I can think of.
Firstly, what is the mouse listed as in the device manager?
Secondly, is this just on a particular game or any?
Thirdly, have you tried enabling controllers on these games?

(Yes I know that that is three things)There are 2 mice listed.  One is HID-compliant mouse, and the other is PS/2 Compatible mouse.  I assume 1 of these is for the touch pad?

It does this on any game that does not run WITHIN windows. By that I mean a NORMAL windows screen than you can minimize and re SIZE.

I haven't looked for an option to enabling controllers, but I know that most the games I am talking about don't have this option.The only thing that I can think of is to uninstall the PS/2 mouse from the devise manager and try a game. The mouse is showing up as a generic USB mouse so I don't see why it would make a difference though. I've never had that problem though.

Btw I'm assuming the touch pad mouse remains functional during games.

I got desktop Compaq EVO D510 SFF with built in amplified speaker which works fine.
when i do voice chat using Headphone/mic, sound comes from built in speaker.. i tried MANY thing to DISABLE built in speaker.. as of after plugging Headphone/Mic to its jack built in speaker should GET automatic disable.. but in my case its not.. sound comes from both headphone and mic..
Can anybody help me to solve my problem
thanksSo the settings inside your audio manager are correct for app.?
If it is a RealTek GO to the Upper Rt. Hand corner
[Device Advanced Settings] And CLICK, 'mute speakers when headphone connected'
If other see if you may be able to find such a settingThanks for you reply Laska, I'll try your said option, but somehow i am able to start using headphone after removing and reinstalling sound drivers.Very Good and I am So Happy for You

Been having PROBS with MB, it seems to work ok, but I am not getting a post beep, nor any beeps for that matter, I think I origianlly had wrong RAM in it, RAM correct now but no beeps. I have checked speaker connection and this is correct.
My question is, if I am not getting a post beep, is there an underlying problem, that is not apparent when MB boots up?

Any help greatly appreciated!I find it hard to imagine that your post made it this far without any responses.
I dont know a great deal about the internals of computer but have had some experience.

Ive been told often that if you take out the battery on the mother board for about 5 to 10 minutes, you will reset the the bios.
You might try this as a starting point.
Not knowing much about your computer doesnt help a great deal though. Maybe you could tell us the Operating system and some other details ... age of computer, was it running well before hand so on.Hmm so do I, 34 people read it only 1 answer, I thought this was a good forum?

I have done the battery bit, no post usually means power supply probs, but pwr supply is ok.
As I said RAM was wrong clock speed, i.e. should have been 3200 but was 2100, now have 3200 in PC.
OS does not really make any difference re MB booting up, but it was XP SP3, but I have been trying it without hard drives and just the video card and RAM to try for a POST.
Age not sure, immaterial probably, skt 478, 3.2GHz processor, 800 FSB, ok for MB as long as with 3200 RAM.
I am now looking for a silent boot option but can't find it with this version of BIOS.
How are you sure the PSU is OK ? ?
Have you tried it with only one stik of RAM ? ?
Have you pulled the MBoard from the case and tried it ? ?
For this HOOK up only PSU; CPU and fan; 1 stick of RAM; monitor; keyboard and mouse.Thanks for reply, I have tried 2 PSU, one new, both start I have put a power supply tester on them and and all OK there (i.e.+3.3, +5, +12 etc)
Also tried with one stick of RAM, in diff slots.
I have tried with just min i.e. 1 RAM, CPU, KB & Mouse & monitor, also with nothing but CPU & RAM to see if I get audible beep.
I did think it was the MB shorting on the case but I have tried a new case, and it is only on the brass pillars so should not short.
The only THING not tried is taking MB out and putting a piece of card underneath, but as it is not touching the case because of the pillars that seems unnecessary.Thanks for replying Patio. You certainly are a better candidate for solving this issue than I, anytime.

tom6969764,  is this a new build or a working computer that your working on? Was a working PC, but after instillation of XP SP3, it started to pack up. Not helped by the wrong RAM I guess, anyway now trying to start again with new install etc. but I am worried that LACK of POST is indicative of another problem that I have not found yet.The best test at this point to determine if it is the MBoard ias a bench test outside of the case...Thanks, what is the best way to do that? QUOTE from: patio on March 27, 2009, 09:13:38 PM

How are you sure the PSU is OK ? ?
Have you tried it with only one stik of RAM ? ?
Have you pulled the MBoard from the case and tried it ? ?
For this hook up only PSU; CPU and fan; 1 stick of RAM; monitor; keyboard and mouse.

Well..to make a long story short..all my hard drives STOPPED functioning i was about to pay for them to get recovered when someone suggested it was the PSU. Installed a new PSU now alll but one of the drives are fine (dead DUE to other reasons).

[Well now all that is resolved.]

The dead drive had windows, so i had to reinstall onto a new drive i brought. I consider myself pretty decent with computers and every time ive reformatted same process..install windows..pop in motherboard driver cd..install drivers.


I can see the DVD drive in hardware devices and my computer but as soon as i pop in a disk it doesnt CHANGE..like the icon..and when i do click the icon representing the dvd drive, every single time explorer crashes. (making me unable to access cd's & dvds) I've been RUNNING a linux live CD off the drive for a several weeks off and on..so i know its not the actual drive hardware. I was also able to install XP home using the drive so that cant be the problem..

I tried installing FIRMWARE..to no avail.

Any ideas?

Drive is 111D Pioneer and motherboard is 965p DS3 Gigabyte (Rev 1.0)One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.None of the above steps resolved the problems.

Cheers, Kingpomba.Bad drive, I assume.Really?

I was able to install windows XP using it fine just a day ago and same goes for using it for a week long with a linux CD.

This may be because the DVD laser is shot while the CD laser is fine...
Vista is on a DVD.

New dual-layer DVD burners are $40 Bucks shipped from newegg.Nah the live CD im talking about was actually a *live DVD* so it cant be that.
HmmmDrives can go suddenly. I have before had a perfectly good drive one day and a virtually useless one the next. Actually on serveral occasions come to think of it. Quote from: kingpomba on March 30, 2009, 12:22:10 AM

Nah the live CD im talking about was actually a *live DVD* so it cant be that.
Hmmm

never heard of a linux live DVD. which distro?

Hi to all,

My Computer is IBM make and my HARDDISK capacity is 40GB.In order to increses my harddisk capacity i have added one more with a capacity of 250GB and that to was splitted into 3 segments namely E,F,&G.While first accesing this E,F,&G it asked to format E,F,&G and ACCORDINGLY i have done it.After this i restrated my computer but it is not showing that new disk (E,F,&G).So will you please help me to rectify this problem

thank you
R.ARUL

Are you familiar with entering the BIOS to see if the physical drive shows up there?

Do you have the drive's jumpers set correctly, for either master/slave or cable select?Also...

What's the poll for?First: we do know what kind of PC you are using, which means that you did not PROVIDED the properties of your PC.
Secound: I suggest you to right click on My computer icon and chose properties, on the context MENU click manage, than on the Computer Management on the left find Disk Management and check there if your new HD is Healthy, if it's not Format it.
Cheers.

Any help appreciated.
Computer : Packard Bell 1559 Intel Pent D 820.  Windows XP.
Arrived home tonight to be informed by my son that when using the PC he could smell a faint 'burning plastic' smell which was followed by a loud pop.  The PC shut down and will now not switch on. Of course it is only just out of warranty!
Not sur if you can help with this limited information but as a starter for ten is it more likely to be the power supply or the processor.  When switch on at the mains the monitor works but the tower unit does not respond at all.  Is there a fuse inside the tower unit?
Thought I'd ask before my untrained hand opens the side panel.
Hope you can help.

Gary
The loud pop makes me think, power supply.  I had a SIMILAR event last year, though the smell was the more acrid smell of burning electronics.

Let us see what others here, think.Use Your untrained hands to open the side panel & shine a torch inside
The motherboard will be readily apparent and any blackening or components that appear to have exploded open would indicate the board if you see nothing amiss there
It would be in the power supply and you may not be able to see it as readily without removing it and or giving it a sniff test to see where the burn is consentrated.On a side note, you may have BLOWN the fuse in the plug top as well. So if you buy a new PSU you may need to replace the fuse.try smelling it. it should smell wrong.

Check each componant, such as the PSU and the motherboard, but also the CPU.

but from the pop, i would suggest to check the PSU first.

But i think the most useful information here is that your computer has officially and literarly fried. Check each of the capacitors on the motherboard. ...they are the ones with the cross etched on top of them......when they pop, the cross on the top splits wide open and a poof of gas is EMITTED causing the odor......I currently have nine ready to spawn........the motherboard has to be replaced or a person with knowledge can replace the blown cap if that's the problem. Same issue occurred with my wifes's PC...two blown caps. Quote from: iamyourmom on March 31, 2009, 08:10:13 AM

try smelling it. it should smell wrong.

Check each component, such as the PSU and the motherboard, but also the CPU.

but from the pop, i would suggest to check the PSU first.

But i think the most useful information here is that your computer has officially and literally fried.

Ok I know you all are smart and helped me before. I have ACTUALY googled and looked around as much as I know to. What I am looking for is probably a soundcard of some sort that offers extra inputs to the expansion bays (front of comp). The two needed inputs are 1. XLR and 1. 1/4 plug.

Its irritating because these come in a external usb to no end. I have found a few like I need but all are missing one or the other input and replaced with midi ect. All that is needed is 1. XLR 1. 1/4 extras is ok but less expensive is better.

Thanks in advance!hi there fat_basterd21 we will need more information about your computer this will assist us in tracing certain specifics involved within your operating system !Thanks for reply.

Windows:               Windows XP5.1 (Build 2600) Service Pack 3
Internet Explorer:     7.0.5730.13
Memory (RAM):          1280 MB
CPU Info:              AMD Athlon(tm) XP 3000+
CPU Speed:             2157.8 MHz
Sound card:            Vinyl AC'97 Audio (WAVE)
Display Adapters:      NVIDIA GeForce FX 5600 | NetMeeting driver | RDPDD Chained DD
Screen Resolution:     1152 X 864 - 32 bit
Network:               Network Present
Network Adapters:      Realtek RTL8139 Family PCI Fast Ethernet NIC - Packet Scheduler Miniport
CD / DVD Drives:       D: PIONEER DVD-RW  DVR-112D | E: PLEXTOR CD-R   PX-W5224A | H: YMAX
:                      
COM Ports:             COM1
LPT Ports:             LPT1
Mouse:                 5 Button Wheel Mouse Present
Hard Disks:            C:  111.7GB
Hard Disks - Free:     C:  81.6GB
USB Controllers:       5 host controllers.
Firewire (1394):       Not Detected
PCMCIA (Laptops):      Not Installed
Manufacturer:          Phoenix/Award Technologies, LTD
Product Make:          MK77M-8XN
:                      
AC Power Status:       OnLine
BIOS Info:             AT/AT COMPATIBLE | 08/02/04 | KM400  - 42302e31
Time Zone:             Central Standard Time
Battery:               No Battery
Motherboard:           AOpen MK77M-8XN
Modem:                 Not detected


Hope thats what your were looking for. Thanks again.any hints/clues to get me in the right direction would be appriciated. I dont even know where or what to search for. Someone told me a special type of soundcard but I had no luck looking that way...Bump!

Didn't ask for more info without intention to share an idea?What? 
Why not make your own?
You already have a sound card. Just make you own adapters and put them on the front panel
What are you using with the XLR? Is it a dynamic Microphone?  Or is it to get output from a Mixer? Quote from: fat_basterd21 on March 30, 2009, 01:24:29 AM

Bump!

Didn't ask for more info without intention to share an idea?

Why not make your own?

Is that a serious answer? How might I go about making adapters?

By the way my soundcard is integrated...

There are literaly thousands of usb interfaces like what I want. Just doesn't make sense why someone would not make an internal device.

Hi There
My Mother broad is Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-US2H Supports crossfireX, processor is AMD Phenom 2 X4 Quad 3.0 GHZ, coolmax power supply 700watt.
I Would Like To ADD A All In One TV Tuner Video CAPTURE And Graphics Card to my system, is that the best way to go or should the be one of each, and what would be compatible.
Can ANYONE help me. Thanks

Hi guys,

I come to you for help. Im very good with computer but this one stumped me so i come to ask you.

I recently installed a new Dvd/Cd Burner and its giving me problems. I installed it right and after INSTALLING it i booted up my comp and at first it wouldnt work and it would SAY that if i recently installed something its messing up my system . I unplugged it and left it for 2 weeks because i didnt need it. I tryd it yesterday and when i booted it up then it would go up to the part where the bar runs across the screen and then just leave a BLACK screen i left the black screen for an HOUR and when i came back it was the same. After i unplugged it works perfectly.

So i need your help.

Vista Home Premium

Go into BIOS at startup & change the Boot Sequence
When you added the DVD the sequence was preset to boot off of it before the HDD.
Put your HDD at the beginning of the Sequence and it should be fine

Compaq Pissaro 900 XP Home.
I am looking to REPLACE my Li-ion Battery. Compaq wants $212.03 for a 14.8V at 4.4MAH replacement one.
I have found one on line for $36.00 Brand NEW.  It is a 14.4V at 4.4 MAH. I can pay Compaq's price. I just wanted to KNOW what the .4V difference it makes if any be for I buy one of these. Thank you. David.Hmm, that 0.4V might make a difference. but i suppose its OK. But you must understand that the battery is not supported by your laptop manufacturer, and when your laptop breaks or when you take it back to the manufacturer, they will not support the battery.

In addition, since there is lower voltage, there will be higher current, which MEANS there is a higher potention to overheat the battery,

when if POWER is off the power INDICATING LEDs are still blinking PC power off after 2&3 minutes Yes, Windows is shutting down and the lite you see blinking is known as the 'Hardware' light.
As windows shuts down it will CONTINUE to blink until the HardDrive stops and Windows is Happy that EVERYTHING is in it's place............2 or 3 min's is Normal and if You ever get Vistait would be Normal to blink 8-10  min's