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The monitor has stopped turning off after fifteen MINUTES (the time I selected) When I change the length of time setting, it will shut down one time only.  As a RESULT, the desktop or document on the screen, stays there.  I want it to turn down when not in use.  Thanks for any help.Sorry, but I don't really understand the problem.

The monitor will not shut off? What happens?
How long is the timer set for?
What Operating System?
Is this a Laptop? Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on March 11, 2009, 03:23:32 AM

Sorry, but I don't really understand the problem.

The monitor will not shut off? What happens?
How long is the timer set for?
What Operating System?
Is this a Laptop?

Laptops, especially, when on battery, I understand. Other, that that, no.

I am Using AMD PHENOM 11 X 4 940 Quad CORE Processor 3.0 GHZ With Motherboard Gigabyte GA-MA78GH-US2H AMD780G mATX AM2+/AM3 PCI-E DDR2 SATA2 Video Sound GBLan HDMI.
Will Be Using A Western Digital Hard Drive 1TB And 1 Pioneer Blue Ray Combo Burner.The Case Is An Apevia X CRUISER Atx Form Factor Mid tower. Will Run five Fans.

I Would Like To Use The Kingwin Abt-650 MA1S Modular, If I Can FIND It In Canada, If Not Anyone With Any Advice What Power Unite To Use Must Be Modular. Must Be A Canada Site. Live In Canada.

Please Help.
Thankyou

When I go to print using Vista it takes about 15 seconds for the list of available printers to populate. I'm new to Vista, but this action was SEEMINGLY instantanious with XP. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

SkipNot a windows VISTA expert.....or fan for that MATTER.....but you are not the first person to realize that many basic operations that were seemingly easy for XP appear to be extremely difficult for VISTA.  MAYBE someone with more experience has a fix for you.I don't really understand your question.
When I want to print something, my default printer kicks in, and it prints.
I'm not sure what printers list you're referring to.

Quote

but you are not the first person to realize that many basic operations that were seemingly easy for XP appear to be extremely difficult for VISTA

I can't figure out why my CDs and DVDs won't play anymore, they used to but now when I put one in it just keeps trying to LOAD the disk and freezes up until i take the disk out.  My friend, who also has Vista, is having the same problem.  When I try to burn a CD it will act like it's burning all the way through and has the burn mark on the CD but when I go to play it in my car it will have no music on it.  When I try to rip a CD into my Itunes it shows a weird start time and end time for all the songs I just ripped into my library and when I go to play the songs I ripped it just skips RIGHT through them. It plays nothing....... but the highlighted bar over the SONG I SELECTED just slides right down the songs I ripped like the music isn't there.  Please Help... I've had this problem for a LONG time

I recently upgraded my compaq presario 5006us with 2- 256 Mg RAM cards, and from an INTEL celeron processor to a intell PIII processor. I have an 80 mg hard drive which I have formatted and created a partition. I downloaded drive Image XML and BACKED up my C: drive. I ATTEMPTED to transfer drive to drive. I get an error stateing that the f drive (NEW) could not be locked. so I attempted to restore the backup to the F drive which dumped the f drive all together. I WENT back and reformat and created a new partition. I would like to make the F drive my primary drive or REPLACE to C: due to the drive begining to fail. i.e.noisy. and hanging up. how do i achive this.

I was THINKING of BUYING a new CPU, But now I'm thinking of doing the barebone kit instead.
 how about some input please.Yes, I would definitely suggest the barebones kit I've used it myself several TIMES and it has ALWAYS woked out best

I found an old HARD drive(IDE) and when i connected it as a slave the operating system says "found new hardware " "installed and ready t use".But I cant acces the disk.It is not displayed in the My computer window.But the drive is listed in "device manager" as a properly working device.Any idea of acessing the data in this drive??THANKS in advance Does it show up in Disk Management?

RIGHT click My computer and select Manage. Move down to Disk Management.did u put the jumper correctly?? QUOTE from: JJ 3000 on March 12, 2009, 08:34:24 PM

Does it show up in Disk Management?

Right click My computer and select Manage. Move down to Disk Management.

did u put the jumper correctly??

H.i, my keyboard is acting .funny. it places random periods in wierd odd places wh.en I type and sometimes wh.en I type it starts acting. funny.................................. .................................. is wha.t is being .sh.own sometimes and it does it on its own oddly.
I ha.ven'.t been typing .sometimes and the. cursor g.oes wierd.

Che.ck out the. little video screensho.t I made of the. problem that. is h.appening. (I uploaded to youtube so follow link below) to see wha.t i mean and i'd. like hel.p fixing. thi.s annoying .issue!!! Tha.nks!!!....................................... ....................................... .......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bJDDXYYt0M
hi..

try to clean it^^^ Quote from: homeincome on March 12, 2009, 07:55:09 PM

hi..

try to clean it^^^

Keyboards can die pretty easily, and what you have described sounds like a dying keyboard.

Try another one and see if you have the same problem.

So wait...the keys that don't work change constantly?

That's a haunted keyboard...no cable damage? plugged in fully/securely?

Guys, what do you THINK is the problem??? My laptop fell to the floor for 2 feet but I can still open it... THOUGH, for some time, it dies--I mean as if POWER is cut. Quote

Guys, what do you think is the problem???

My laptop fell to the floor for 2 feet

Great! We'd have SOLVED it earlier, if I paid attention to your FIRST post, and SAW, it was LAPTOP...LOL

Hello All,

  I  just want to know Can I USE  two different data transfer rate in a  network system?
  My pc has built in network ADAPTER ( 100 Mbps) .Can I use this PC with Giga bit  support     switch(10/100/1000 G)  to CONNECT with other computer.    Does any computer has built in network adapter support up to  (10/100/1000 G) ?

Any advice would be appreciated.

My LCD monitor has a vertical bar down the right side full of TINY jumping horizontal lines.  Is this something that can be repaired easily?SOUNDS like the monitor is broken.

If the picture is fuzzy and jumping around, try smashing the LCD Monitor on the tablet (As if you dropped it). It has worked for me before, but no guarantees.

You may want to try another monitor before doing this as the PROBLEM may lie in your video card.I had a TV that did this once and it ened up having to be replaced.  You could try the previous suggestion.....worst CASE is that you end up needing a new one....which it sounds like you already do. Is it similar to this??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LoeLKQb84og

I RECOMMEND muting the video, profanity in the background of the video clip.Go TO Websites of your comp. mfctr & to Monitr manufacturer and check for Updates to Hardware Firmware & drivers Etc.

Monitors don't need drivers.......

Don't forget to try another monitor in the case that this is your video card.

Hi,

I recently placed an order for parts to build a PC that would be used for gaming. I've never BUILT a PC before, but when I received the parts, I had a friend help me. So far, everything seemed to be working fine.

That was, until I got to the part where I have to install the OS to a hard drive. This is past the part where everything goes wrong. I had put in the product key for activation, which was accepted. Then, I checked the license agreement stuff, that went all right. I chose a Custom installation, to install a Clean Copy - normal, I suppose, since this is a brand new, custom built computer.

At the part where I WANT to install Windows, all goes to *censored*. It claims, verbatim, "No drives were found. Click Load Driver to provide a mass storage driver for installation." I've tried a variety of driver software, to no avail. I've had friends from my dorm (which, incidentally, is full of engineering and compsci majors) come in to help, and all were defeated.

And given that normal tech support wasn't that helpful (likewise with Google), I decided to just ask the online community directly.

From what I can tell, my hard drive is DEFINITELY running, for it is giving off warmth during operation. It is a Western Digital Caviar Blue, W3200AAJS model. The storage capacity is 320 GB, and the interface is SATA 3.0 Gb/s. RPM, 7200. Cache, 8 MB. It is connected via two sets of cables: one that goes from the PSU (500W) and another that is a SATA connector.

My motherboard is a GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3L type, and it definitely has SATA on it, because the HDD is connected to SATA port 0. There are six ports, labelled 0 to 5.

I'm not SURE if SATA is disabled in BIOS, or if my hard drive is broken, or whatever. I can access the BIOS screen, but from there, I'm completely lost.

My main questions are as follows:

1. How can I tell if SATA is enabled in the mobo?

2. If it is enabled, what do I do to get the hard drive to be acknowledged in BIOS?

3. On the hard drive itself, there is the power connector, the SATA connector, and another socket that has 8 metal pins in it - not the super thin ones, but the slightly thicker, rounder ones. None of the parts I ordered came with any adapter to this. What is it, and is it important?

4. Assuming I get the BIOS to acknowledge the HDD, what happens if the same error message appears again while trying to install the OS onto the HDD?

As soon as I can get the OS to install, I should be good, but so far, I haven't been able to - this one little problem has bottlenecked what is otherwise a fairly good gaming PC. Honestly, I'm quite frustrated to have saved up and spent 700 dollars plus some to get the parts, only to have a useless hunk of metal and cables on my desk.

My system specs, if they help, are as follows:

Antec Sonata III case with fan and 500W PSU
GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3L motherboard
Intel Core 2 Duo E7400, 2.8 Ghz
EVGA GeForce 9800 GTX+
4 gigs of RAM, 2x2GB Corsair 240-pin sticks
ASUS 22x DVD burner (the BIOS did list the ASUS the IDE Master/Slave channel list thing)
Western Digital Caviar Blue W3200AAJS 320GB SATA II hard drive (not reading in BIOS or by Vista)
Windows Vista Home Premium, 64-bit, OEM


Any help would be highly appreciated.

Thanks,
ChrisMake shure the drive is connected to right and into the right sata port. 

1. How can I tell if SATA is enabled in the mobo? It should be

2. If it is enabled, what do I do to get the hard drive to be acknowledged in BIOS? Make shure that it is connected right and if not then make shure its put to boot first in the BIOS

3. On the hard drive itself, there is the power connector, the SATA connector, and another socket that has 8 metal pins in it - not the super thin ones, but the slightly thicker, rounder ones. None of the parts I ordered came with any adapter to this. What is it, and is it important?
sounds like the jumpers  Dont mess with this

If the drive is connected right and its set to boot first in the BIOS, try to reconnect it.  If all else fails, your drive is badFirst of all...make sure you install all the DRIVERS for the mobo...including the SATA controller...

Once you have all of the drivers for the mobo installed...and all of your other hardware installed, then you can begin the OS installation.  However, make sure your SATA drive is recognized in BIOS, first.  You may need to adjust your settings in BIOS, so that the drive is recognized...normally, this can be accomplished by setting the BIOS to its defaults.  You may need to tweak a few settings in the BIOS for the SATA drive.

Then...during installation of the OS, you'll have to make sure you press the F6 key, since you're installing Windows on a SATA drive.

During the install process you may be required to have drivers available...these drivers come with your motherboard software...and there should be directions for creating media for these drivers, either from the mobo cd, or floppies.

I've included a link to your mobo's user manual.  Pay close attention to Chapter 5.  That chapter will definitely get you through BIOS recognizing the drive(s).  Here's the link:  http://america.giga-byte.com/FileList/Manual/motherboard_manual_ga-ep45-ud3l(r)_e.pdf

Keep us posted...

Okay, I need a little bit of help.

I wanted my computer a bit more reliable so I decided to overclock my DDR2 FREQUENCY. My computer runs at 800GHz and I changed it to 866GHz or something like that. I rebooted my computer and it wonted load anything, my monitor would not detect my computer so I turned it off and plugged it out and came back in a half an hour and plugged it back in. No luck. I then plugged it out at around 9:00 pm and came back at 4:00 pm and tried again. I usually screw up on overclocks so I had this problem three times now and it work the two other times.


How can I solve this problem?Try clearing CMOS. Remove the battery from your motherboard for about thirty minutes and then place it back on the board. Make sure you are grounded before touching any internal components. Static electricity can fry your motherboard.

That battery will not come out for some reason.That is odd.

There might be a CLEAR CMOS JUMPER on your motherboard. Refer to your manual.

You might need to use a small screwdriver to move the release clip to the side

hey guys im new here so take it easy on me well im building my first pc and my budget is around 400 pounds so ive decided to go MEGA on the MOBO to give me better overclocking oppurtunities in the future, as its my first can you guys tell me what u think? i play World Of Warcraft and just wondered if this machine will run it smoothly. Thanks guys and girls.

pro http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CP-191-AM&groupid=701&catid=6&subcat=

mother http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-290-AS&groupid=701&catid=5&subcat=

ram http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-173-CS&groupid=701&catid=8&subcat=

gpu http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=GX-151-AS&groupid=701&catid=56&subcat=

hdd http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HD-011-FJ&groupid=701&catid=14&subcat=

cd http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CD-009-AO&groupid=701&catid=10&subcat=

fan http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-050-AK&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=

sound card http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=SC-040-CL&groupid=701&catid=11&subcat=Hard drive is too slow.  You want an at least 7200rpm drive
I wouldnt go with AMD
Your idea of going "mega" on the mobo for overclocking" ISNT a good one. Amds wont overclock too high in the first place so a good motherboard wont matter (on overclocking anyways)
GPU is pretty weak
What case and power supply?
Motherboards also have built in soundcards.  I dont KNOW if you will notice much of a DIFFERENCE with that soundcard and the onboard motherboard soundcard.  If I where you I would cut out the sound card and spend the money on a better gpu or something

Hello I have a Dell Dimension E510 with raid 1.
One drive went bad so I bought a 500gb drive and PARTITIONED in half, the original drive is a 160gb.
When I installed the new drive I have the OPTION to Rest disk to non-raid.
When I pick the other option to create a raid volume it says there isnt a drive big enough.
Do I NEED to reset to non-raid so it can redo everything.
When I CLICK on the reset disk to non-raid it says all DATA will be lost, is that just on the old disk?
But will all my information be on the bootable drive still?

Thanks for any help on this.
Mike
I am all set, I had an update that messed something up and did a restore point rebooted and it found the drive fine and is rebuilding the array now

BIOS says cache RAM 1024 KB

on the main page it says

installed memory 1024 MB/PC2-4200
memory bank 1 1024 MB DDR2 SDRAM (this is the new stick)
memory bank 2 not installedyou still can only have a max of 1 gb stopping thinking other wise we have told you this.  Not being rude just dont like being very repetative I posted that in response to the previous post to let him know the information I found, in the event that it was something other than what was already thought.  If you don't want to repeat yourself, don't reply to this TOPIC.  I CAME here for help, not to have you be rude to me.....which, yes, is what you were. Quote from: nhstarr on March 12, 2009, 02:42:54 PM

I posted that in response to the previous post to let him know the information I found, in the event that it was something other than what was already thought.  If you don't want to repeat yourself, don't reply to this topic.  I came here for help, not to have you be rude to me.....which, yes, is what you were.

I keep trying to play videos..(i.e., Youtube, Yahoo, MTV, etc) When I try to play them, I keep getting a message telling me I need to either enable Java Script(already have), and also download newest version of Flash Player(already have) but I still get that message everytime I try to watch. Why is my computer doing this? What do I need to do to correct this? Any help would be very, very appreciated!

-Dave
What BROWSER are you using?

do you have any add-ons like 'No-script' installed on your browser?

When did you install Java and Flash?Did it ever work? Did you make any changes prior to the problem?

Quote

List as much about your computer as POSSIBLE. This includes operating system (what version of Windows you are using), service packs, computer make/model, RAM, hard DRIVE, sound and video cards, current adware/spyware/virus programs being used on a REGULAR basis, do you have a "real" Windows CD, etc.

also download newest version of Flash Player(already have) but I still get that message everytime I try to watch.

I was wondering if some one could give me a couple basic steps to pinpoint whether or my cpu is working.

My power supply works.
The power switch on my case works.
The heat sink fan works.

My keyboard does not light up.
My mouse does not like up.
I cant get on board video (bios) to display.
I have a video card that I cant seem to get a signal though to the monitor with.

OS:WIN XP
Motherboard:
Gigabyte 945gcm-s2c
Cpu:
Intel Pentium 4 3.0GHz 800MHz 2MB LGA775
RAM:Corsair VS512MB533D2 512MB DDR2-533 (2 STICKS)

My guess would be power supply or the board. Check all connections firstSounds like the motherboard to me
But start with the free options... Can you get a old power supply to try and test it with? Quote from: xavier on March 10, 2009, 04:52:31 PM

My guess would be power supply or the board. Check all connections FIRST

Sounds like the motherboard to me
But start with the free options... Can you get a old power supply to try and test it with?

It can still be bad if it just powers the fans and stuff.  Just because its putting out power doesnt mean its good.  Can you try to get a free power supply to test instead of buying one?  And wouldnt it be easier just to return the other power supply instead of buying a new one if you really have to?

Did you build this ? ?

What happened before the problem occured

I would guess thats a yes (at least someone did) due to the motherboard

Hi I am new here, I hope you can help me.


I have a Asus M51VR Laptop running Windows VISTA also with Norton Internet Security 2009. I have only had my laptop since last December. About a month or so ago, it kept shutting itself down, so I had to send it off to get repaired. They had to replace the hard drive..I can't remember what else.. Anyway today I turned my latpop on and it had a black screen and showed my cursor and my laptop made  LIKE a weird SYSTEM TYPE noise. I tried pressing alt,ctrl del but it didn't do anything. So I ended up having too turn my laptop off. I then tried to turn it on again and it wouldn't turn BACK on.I left it for a while and left the battery out for a bit and put it back in and it still wouldn't turn on. I organized for my laptop to be looked at,they were going to pick it up on Monday.. But I decided to take the battery out again and I left it out for about 5 hours or so.Tried to turn it on and it turned on and is normal...The battery was pretty much flat.. But earlier on when I tried to charge it when it was off and wouldn't turn on,it wasn't charging. I don't want to have to send it off again!!What could it be? It wasn't really that hot at all after it wouldn't turn back on, so it wasn't as if it had over heated. I'm hoping it won't happen again but I want to be able to try stop it from happening again?

Hello everyone, I'm having a big problem with my computer and can't figure out whats wrong with it. I had it built and it's had this problem since the first day I got it, so I know it's not a virus. The computer will randomly crash and reboot. It will do it when I'm not doing anything SOMETIMES. It has done it as soon as right while windows is loading up to 6-7 hours after it's been on. Sometimes many times in a row. It will also crash while windows is shutting down when I try to do a restart. I've checked out everything. Nothing appears to be loose on the inside and it's not an overheating issue as nothing has gone over 37 Celsius. When I originally got it sometimes it would give me a BSoD and the error would point to the video card. However I have since sent the computer in and they replaced the video card. And I got it a couple times again when I got it back but haven't had it happen once in the last couple weeks. After tinkering with it for a while and making sure everything was up to date I decided I would go ahead and reinstall Vista since nothing else I could think of was working. This took a while as the computer continued to crash and reboot itself more frequently while in the middle of the reinstall. I've put it in safe mode a couple times for hours and it never crashed during it. However it would when I try to restart windows again from safe mode.


Right now the computer has:

Windows Vista home basic 32-bit
Intel(R) Core 2 Quad CPU Q6600 2.40GHZ
RAM: 3071 MB
EVGA Nvidia Geforce 9800 GTX+
nForce 780i SLI
950 W Power Supply

I can't help but think it has something to do with the motherboard. I have ever since it first started happening. Any advice would be appreciated and thanks for any help you may be able to give. Let me know if you need any more info.Navigate to: C:\Windows\Minidump folder.
If you see any .dmp files, zip all of them, and attach zipped file to your next reply.
Try going to control panel> system> advanced & click on setting button instart up & recovery window click on the check box for auto restarss to clear it & then check apply & ok.See if this helps.I already have tried turning the automatically restart option off and it didn't work. Also there is no Minidump folder for whatever reason.

Thanks for the replies!Try a test  with a diff power supplyCan you provide more info about the motherboard, model, bios model an version?

Also  maybe you should test you ram for 1 day
Here is a great tool :http://www.memtest86.com/memtest86-3.5.iso.zip

You seem to know enough to understand what I just wrote. Just ask if you need help  The motherboard is a MSI P7N Diamond nForce 780i SLI.

I don't know that much about computers just some things I've learned from others. I don't know how I would find out the bios model or version.

Thanks again for the replies.Is there any way I can safely test the power supply to make sure it's working properly? I don't have one to replace it with to test it out. Also I've ran the memory diagnostic tool but nothing came up. But what I don't know is whether or not the tool is only minor in effectiveness or if it is good for telling me weather one of my ram sticks is bad or not.

Okay well, here is an update I have had it in Safe mode for quite some time now and it just crashed/rebooted. It lasted for a couple hours this time and quite a few more hours previous times when the comp usually crashes/reboots on average every 10 to 20 MINUTES while not in safe mode. I always put it in safe mode after it has crashes/rebooted in normal mode so that I can see the difference in how much longer it lasted.

Also if it makes a difference I would like to add that sometimes it reboots straight back to windows and other times it gives me the options of booting normally or going into the various safe modes. Not sure if that really matters though. Quote

I had it built and it's had this problem since the first day I got it,

I need some clarification on weather or not a bad ram stick could cause nothing on screen to show up.

Yes

Did you hear any beeps when you put the second stick in by itself?

Going to test the hard drive if the computer will stop crashing before I can download the tool.

Try replacing your hard drive's data cable.

Recently I decided to hook up my computer and my TV (which is actually a giant monitor (Pioneer P55A5)). After receiving all of the things I ordered, I attempted to connect my TV and computer before wiring through the walls.  Surprise, the video doesn't work. Sound is being transmitted, but no video is being displayed.

When ever I attempt to do anything with the second monitor (TV) in Display Settings, it just reverts back to default settings (and does this with other PROGRAMS I have, such as UltraMon).

In the Device Manager it doesn't list my TV until I "SCAN for hardware changes", in which it will then CALL it a "Generic Non-PnP Monitor".

I have checked for new drivers with no luck... The audio is transmitted fine, just no video (I'm using an RCA cable).

Thanks in advanced!What OS?

Is this a LAPTOP?VISTA Home Edition 32 bit.

It's a PC.

I am using an ATI Raedon 3870 graphics card.Go into your Control Panel and setup the new monitor. That should help. Quote from: Kurisu42069 on March 12, 2009, 04:44:53 PM

Go into your Control Panel and setup the new monitor. That should help.

Whats an easy way to slave a Laptop HDD to my other Laptop?  

hi, in a few month i will make a custom desktop for gaming.So now i'm think i will buy this motherboard, http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/Motherboard/Products_Overview.aspx?ProductID=2847
and then use this INTEL CORE 2 DUO E7200 as the processor and the 3d card will be
http://www.nvidia.com/object/product_geforce_9800_gtx_plus_us.html

So far, are everything matched?Will it run?

Thank's for an advise.well by the looks of it the components you have specified will fit and run in your motherboard. just need to sort the rest out and it should run fine i currently have that graphics card and i would personally recommend you get a slightly larger case and a big power supply of around 500W.For Power Supply, check out the 12V rail amp ratings, that's more important. A 400W PSU with good 12V rail would do fine if you're not using 2 hard drives, 2 optical drives and a ubergaming graphics card which you really don't need anyway unless you're wanting to max out CRYSIS on your HDTV. Quote from: m_260 on February 15, 2009, 01:55:56 PM

For Power Supply, check out the 12V rail amp ratings, that's more important.

Whenever there's a doubt trust the manuf. info over a review site...

contant gigabyte and confirm 

About 3 months ago, I started having this problem on my laptop.  Kind of hard to explain, but basically whenever I click on the left mouse button on my laptop touchpad, it selects the objects twice--as if I double-clicked it.  In other words, whenever I click on something, my laptop will double click it instead of just single-clicking it as normal. 

The thing is, if I tap the left button on touchpad in a certain way (with a lighter, quicker touch), then it will properly single-click on items.  Also, I have it SET to left click if just tap on the ACTUAL touchpad itself, and this works properly.

Have checked my mouse/touchpad options and everything seems set right.  Have double-click speed set to pretty fast. 

If anyone has any recommendations as to what the problem is, I would greatly appreciate any advice.  I have done some searching around for this problem on here and on the web but cannot find anything helpful.  Thanks in advance. 

OH yeah, almost forgot--my laptop specs:

Toshiba SATELLITE A305 laptop
Intel Core 2 Duo T8100 2.1GHz 2.1GHz
4 GB DDR2 SDRAM - 667.0 MHz
400GB Serial ATA hard drive (200GB x 2--5400 rpm, 4200 rpm)
Windows Vista Home Premium, 64-bit

New problem hurray -.-.  i installed a new dvd burner samsung SH-S223Q. it worked fine once >.>  i tried to BURN some dvds to test it out and it worked fine til about 5% then froze the computer up. Now when i put in a blank dvd it just freezes right after it attempts to read it , or SOMETIMES it will just restart my computer. I also have a cd drive below it and it reads fine so i dont know WHATS wrong   plz helpThis COULD be a power supply issue if you are near the maximum wattage after installing the new DVD.it was actually replacement for another dvd driver that died. i just tried to unplug the cd drive from the power to see if it was a power issue but it still does the same thing Unless it was an entirely different issue, something may have killed your other DVD and now the problem might be repeating.
Take a good look at the data cables and try different power connectors.oh it wasnt a weird issue like this with the other drive the only thing that was wrong with it was it just didnt burn because of a bad lens  but it read dvds fine and i was able to put blanks in fine without my computer blowing up loltake karnacs advice  or dig that hole deeper!It may also be due to a conflict with the burning software and the DVD drivers. Try using a different software. You may try Nero trail  or free IMG burn:

http://www.imgburn.com/index.php?act=download

Have you tried updating the drive firmware? 

is it possible to install a FASTER cpu in a laptop?  I know its easy to do with towers but i NEVER had a laptop till know, its a celeron m 1.6 GHZ, so you can see why I WANT it faster. It's possible, yes.
It depends on the exact model of your laptop as to what you can upgrade the CPU to, and laptop processors do tend to be expensive and more difficult to install than desktop CPUs.well over all its a nice laptop considering that I got it for nothing.  Aside from needing a new battery and a few adjustments here.

I was doing a MIC test this moring and HEARD my laptop shut down after that.  Know its not plaing anything!!!!  I CHECKED my settings and there right.  Its a toshiba laptop celeron m CANT give you much other then that SINCE I havent had it long.never mind that was wierd, its working

I have a 20 gig C drive. It has become too full to use defrag.
I have DVD-RW DISK drives and they want space on C.
Windows will not let me move ALL of C drive to my D drive.
How can I replace my C drive with a larger hard drive, without losing my software installed on C now?
I certainly don't wish to have to run thru with reloading Windows and re-verifying the codes.
A computer store said they could do the replacement, BUT HOW CAN THEY?
email:[Removed]Google [acronis]How big is your D drive and C drive?Not that this will help, it is just the info...

By making a "clone" of your hard drive onto another.
They would boot a computer with the following CONFIG:

Primary Master:Their own OS
Primary Slave: Possibly Their own CD/DVD Drive
Secondary Master: Your 20GB Drive
Secondary Slave: Your newer, bigger drive.

What they do is run a program that copies the exact contents of your C: drive onto the newer one, 1:1 copy, so any FRAGMENTS stay in the same place, they do not GET fixed automatically. It is just like TAKING an picture, and then using that picture to reconstruct a scene, perfectly.

Is the D: drive perhaps your DVD-RW Drive? because when you move files there, windows simply makes a copy to prepare it for burning.

OS: Windows 98SE
RAM: 383MB
Sound Card: SoundMax Integrated Digital Audio

I had a great deal of music transfered to this computer about a month ago and I've been using it primarily for listening purposes, so this is causing me quite a bit of frustration.  It just started the other day, but previously was corrected eventually with repeated restarts.  Today I've had no such luck, and I've worked tirelessly to fix this problem for the duration of the evening.

Anyways, when I restart, the usual Windows 98 start up sound begins, "hiccups" and then DIES out.  After this happens, no sound will play on either WinAmp or the internet.  On WinAmp, in addition to no sound, the song TICKER will play to the 2-second mark and then mysteriously stop.  For this reason, I don't believe it has anything to do with speakers.. however, device manager claims that the soundcard is without error!  ScanDisk and Defragmentation of my drives have done no good either!  Please help if at all possible..

But please, I realize I have a VERY basic computer.. PATHETIC even.  So of course, I know it's wise to update, and I plan to eventually.  Unfortunately, lack of funds are preventing me from being able to do this any time soon.  This system was given to me free and was practically untouched when I got it; it's nothing special, but it does provide me w/ music when I need it.  Anyways, thank you if you read all of this and I hope that perhaps there is something I can do.Providence,If you already know the precise model and version of your sound card go to the website of the manufacturer of it and download the drivers for the win98 o/s. If you can identify the current software associated with the sound card located within your add/remove programs delete them 1st before installing the ONES you find on the web site. Do not uninstall them until you find the drivers. It APPEARS that your current sound card is an integrated one and thus another alternative is to purchase a PCI sound card (very inexpensive) and install it in the computer in any available PCI slot and then install the drivers for it and you should be away to the races. I would try the 1st 1st. goodluck and keep us informed.
P.S. I am still operating a number of computers with win98SE as you are for minimal resource things and have no intention to give them up (yet). truenorth

Advice please
New LAP top couple of weeks old been running ok,up to now
Then this morning tried to play a CD in the optical drive and its not their in my computer
had look in device manager and it seems ok drivers up to date
Tried the link below which seems to be the answer
but their are no upper or lower FILTERS to delete.
Asus note book
Op vista home edition
optical drive :HL-DT-ST DVDRRAM GSA T5ON

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929461
Did you try a different disk? Quote

New lap top couple of weeks old

Hi there!

I'm having problems with my cdrw drive. It is a Liteon new ADDITION ( was installed from the original "regular" cd drive approx our years AGO). I noticed without the last couple of months that the drive would have its days when it "wanted" to open and when it didn't "feel" like it.

Well now its completely stuck. When the eject button is pushed, the light comes on, greas whirr, and you can hear it trying to push forward, but to no avail. I did do the little trick of STICKING the unbent paper clip in the hole and the drive did pop open. But once shut again it won't reopen with the "eject" button alone.

Am I just going to have to pop it open VIA paper clip from now on, or is there something else that can be DONE?

If anyone can help, it'd be greatly appreciated! Replace the drive there is a internal PBLM. Recomend SONY

I just got this bare bones kit:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4319088&csid=_22

For the DVD drive, I'm going to use:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151175

And instead of the hard drive from the bare bones kit, I'm going to use:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136236

Also, I have a 600w PSU on my current computer that I'm going to swap with the one from the kit.
As a side note, my monitor is a 17" VGA.
///

Thats that for the specs of my build. Now for the part I NEED help on. I want to be able to play the newer games at at least mid-quality(preferably more OBVIOUSLY), so I'm trying to figure out what video card to get.

I can afford maybe $120 or so max. And since the case is a ATX Mid-Tower, and the board a microATX, it cant be too large size wise (I think? this is my first build, so I don't know how the size of the card really translates.).

Two final questions.
1-Does the type of cpu fan I get matter too much? Because I need to get one before I start putting this together, so I'm gonna get it at the same time as the video card.
2-Considering the specs, and the FACT that I want to play Games, is Vista or XP better?

I have four USB ports on my Dell Latitude D620.

Three work perfectly, one (let's call it Port A) does not.

Here's what I've OBSERVED so far:
- All thumb drives, except for one, work fine in Port A (That is, I can save and launch documents and media files)
- The one that does not work is a 16GB micro that hosts my iTunes library
- My iPod is not recognized when plugged into Port A, but it is in others.
- My iPod CHARGES when plugged into Port A, however.
- My wireless presenter's receiver is not recognized
When I say "not recognized", I mean it does not make the funny USB connection sound, and does not show up in "Safely Remove Hardware". Additionally, the laptop does not try to find/make a NEW hardware connection.

All of the above mentioned devices work correctly in other USB ports on the same machine.

This happens regardless of where the laptop is, which of two power adaptors it's plugged into, or whether it's running on battery power. It is not SPECIFIC to one power supply, or where in the house (or country) my machine is.

Port A is the top one on the right side of the keyboard.

I first noticed this issue in early January. It has been this way ever since.

The laptop is two years old. The iPod is 18 months, and the 16GB drive was purchased in early January.



I have TRIED deleting my USB info in Device Manager and rebooting. This did not make a difference.

Love to hear any suggestions or advice.

Cheers,

How old is this laptop?

What Operating System is this?

If you go to Device Manager, are there any Yellow Question or Exclamation marks?Sorry for late reply... "Notify me of replies" didn't.

It's XP SP3 and no yellow exclamations.answer the question 4 help Quote from: rjbinney on March 08, 2009, 05:20:16 PM

Sorry for late reply... "Notify me of replies" didn't.

It's XP SP3 and no yellow exclamations.

Hmmm.....Anyways, how old is the laptop, Rjbinney?

The laptop is two years old. The iPod is 18 months, and the 16GB drive was purchased in early January.

You might want to try reinstalling your motherboard drivers.

I can no longer get the information I have saved on my Maxtor External Hard Drive (Maxtor Personal Storage 3200). It worked well for a few years then a few days ago I got the following message: ""A USB device has malfunctioned and exceeded the power limits of its hub port."

A few days after, when I PICKED up the drive, I heard something rattling inside. There is a small piece where the USB cable was plugged into the drive that fell inside the case. The piece that fell inside the case had 4 metal connectors from the USB cable to the board. I soldered these to the board and the USB cable but that didn't work.

I have now removed the drive completely from inside the case (see pics) and have tried to hook it up internally in my PC. I have found two cables in my PC that plug into the back of the drive just as they do into my internal drive - however, the computer won't start with the new drive plugged in. When I remove it, the computer starts.

The drive label says it's a 200GB PATA133 HDD DiamondMax 10.

What can I do? Why won't the computer start with the drive connected internally? Is there some other way I can get the data on that's on the drive? Any help would be immensely appreciated! Thank you! AJ







First thing you should do is STOP trying to get the drive to boot...this is unneccessary for getting your data.
Jumper it as slave and hook it into a known working MACHINE with a BURNER...you should be able to see it in Explorer and hopefully copy/burn your important data.
Slave Drive Info

If this does not work after 3 attempts then stop.
From there you will either have to troll eBay for a similar drive and swap the circuit board out ( the serial and model #'s need to be real close for this to work ) or hire a data recovery service...the 2nd option is expensive...

Best of Luck.Thanks patio, connecting the drive as slave has not worked so I'm trying your 2nd suggestion. Thanks for your helpI've purchased the same Maxtor product and have removed the drive itself from the enclosure. I hooked up my old drive to the new enclosure but there's some issue with the power. There's a green LED light that's on (if the enclosure is plugged into power). However, as soon as I plug the old drive into the new board, the LED turns off. First picture shows the new drive's enclosure plugged into power with light on (the drive is not yet attached). 2nd picture shows the old drive plugged into the new enclosure -- although power cable is still attached, the green LED light turns off. Someone mentioned this is possibly "internal power failure"... is there any solution beside data recovery? Please help.




Clik my Slave drive link above...forget about the enclosure for now.
Then see if the drive shows up in Disk Management...Patio, I'm confused. I already tried hooking up the Maxtor drive (removed from the enclosure) to my PC as a slave. As I wrote in my 1st post above, the computer doesn't turn on when the drive is connected. When I disconnect it, the computer turns on again. I'm not sure I have set the jumper correctly, however. Here is a picture of the jumper diagram from the drive. Can you help me figure out where to place the jumpers to set the drive as slave?



Because the above didn't work, I got another Maxtor drive as you suggested and removed the drive from the case. I hooked up my old drive to the green circuit board and the power cable of the new enclosure but the moment I plug in the old drive, the power goes off.

I'm not sure I'm explaining this right because I don't know the right terms. Does it make sense?

There's a green board attached right on the drive (visible in the 3rd pic in 1st post) but SEEMS to have some screws. Should I try swapping these boards?No Jumper = Slave...try it that way.Okay, I have found the same model Maxtor external hard drive on Ebay and have swaped the circuit board but it's not working. When I connect the USB cable, I don't see the drive connected. In System Hardware the USB port says something like device not working/can't open (error 10).

The problem drive is:
Maxtor 3200
Model 6L200P0
200GB PATA133 HDD
Serial S/N L41NY3NH
Mfg Date 20 Feb 2006

The drive I bought on Ebay is:
Maxtor 3200
Model 6L200P0
200GB PATA133 HDD
Serial S/N L41FMZRH
Mfg Date 26 Nov 2005

Both are same model and mfg date is 4 months apart. The circuit boards are very similar but there are small differences if you look carefully. First picture is the problem circuit board, 2nd pic is the board I just purchased.
 


Is it possible that this small difference in the circuit board is causing the issue? If yes, how do I find a drive that will work? I know the serial number is printed on the outside of the enclosure but the other data is printed on the drive itself inside the enclosure and people on Ebay won't open it up to TELL me if it matches. So basically is there some way that I can tell from the serial number if the board matches my old drive?

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!try setting it as cable select, I know with westerns I couldn't have it jumpered as a master in order for it to boot or be seen at all.  Not sure if this was asked cause alot to read.  Do you feel it spinning?  if not its dead simple as that.  Also, that seemed like a cheap enclosure trust me I got one for about 20 and its power converter plug is know dead.The way I tested the new circuit board is by hooking up the old drive (with new board) to the new enclosure which I know works. Are you saying that hooking up the drive internally to my computer on CS might make a difference?Before you removed the circuit board on the drive did it spin up? In other words before you made any changes could you tell if the drive was spinning?

If it wasn't than I would put it back together how you first had it...set the jumper as a slave put it in a plastic bag and put it a freezer for an hour. Take it out and as fast as you can hook it up to your computer and see if it spins up and if you can read anything off it.

This is really old school to get a drive that’s stuck spinning again long enough to get your data off of it.

You can also try to plug it in and bang the edge of the drive on a table to try to break it free.

Both of these have worked for me.

supposeably you cant do that at all so i heard but this shows its possible.  So maybe I can get a few of my larger drivers working again yet probably not.

I have an older pc that has Windows 98. I am TRYING to figure out the speed
of the processor. The only info I have is that it is an Intel 82439hx. Any ideas?AIDA32 will tell you this...
Last i saw it was at majorgeeks.comthank you for responding...that is a great idea but the pc is not hooked up to the INTERNET yet...I have aida 32 for my pcopen the 'system information' program by either typing "msinfo32" (without QUOTES) into the run box from the start menu, or system properties by right CLICKING the my computer icon and clicking properties

The first one will GIVE you more than enough information, I just added the second one as I am not 100% sure it works on Win 98  Quote from: gammylynn on March 09, 2009, 03:53:57 PM

thank you for responding...that is a great idea but the pc is not hooked up to the internet yet...I have aida 32 for my pc

Perhaps the poster could enlighten us as to WHAT EXACTLY it is that they want to accomplish and then more defined SUGGESTIONS MIGHT follow.truenorthBy the WAY,

this is a "cpu"



This is a system UNIT

Hi, I'm totally stumped on a problem I'm having with a pc I've rebuilt.
(New mobo and HEATSINK)

1st When I plug my vga connector into the blue vga slot on the mother board the monitor turns from "No SIGNAL" to black screen.

I used to run the vga cord into the back of the video card on the old set up.
So I tried this again once I found out I cant get video to display from blue vga slot on the new mobo.

It worked using a 29/15 pin converter that came with the video card.
This lasted about 5 days before I turned on the pc one morning and the screen was black again.

*I thought it might have  been the monther board that burned out or something so I replaced it with brand new one and still got the same result.So I returned the new mother board and re installed the old one.

*I thought it might have  been the video card that burned out or something so I replaced it with brand new one and still got the same result.So I returned the new vid card and re installed the old one.

*no pins are bent on the plug.

So I replugged in the monitor to my old pc and have been using it ever since.. (about a year ago)



Why cant I just plug the monitor into the vga slot on the mobo? (15-15 pin)

Why wont it work any more going though my video card? (29-15pin)

Thx in advance to anyone that replies. I REALLY could use some advice.


  If you have a video card plugged in there is a 99% chance your on board won't work 

As for the screen going black, this is normal, the only thing it checks for really is any type of grounding from the connection, and switches to standby. It does not mean the monitor is getting a signal from the computer itself.

Try booting with just the CPU, one RAM stick, no hard drives and no add on cards, if it still does not boot correctly, try the other RAM stick(s) (Where applicable of course)

If it does boot, start adding components one at a time until you find your faulty equipment

Quote from: Kurtiskain on March 09, 2009, 09:30:07 PM

Try booting with just the CPU, one RAM stick, no hard drives and no add on cards, if it still does not boot correctly, try the other RAM stick(s) (Where applicable of course)

4 . i have a winfast 4k8ab motherboard

Hello All- my question is fairly simple I believe with a compatibility question.

I want to buy a SATA / IDE / USB Combo Card RAID for my DELL Dimension 3000

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124016

issue is that.. I don't know if it is compatible with my motherboard,
I "downloaded" EVEREST so I can supply a correct information.
Below is an attachment of the information in notepad.


[Can anyone help me with this issue, and give a little knowledge for me too]

~Reason why I want the Card is so I can buy an external HDD for my computer; all NEW external HDD use only ( USB 2.0, Firewire, eSATA )

Let me know if you need any other information__Thank You in Advance, SORRY

[attachment deleted by admin]Not enough info in the REPORT ...but if it's a PCI card and you have an available PCI slot then it will work...

Yeah, I tried it out, there was only the CPU, RAM(tried once with, the other without), power supply, heatsink, and power switch connected to the motherboard, but there was no success...

Did you try replacing RAM module from a known working unit?

Try replacing RAM and power on the system with the PSU, power switch, RAM module and Processor installed on the motherboard. Attached your monitor on the onboard video at the motherboard...See if this works.........

Quote from: rebel214 on December 09, 2008, 10:35:50 PM

Did you try replacing RAM module from a known working unit?

Try replacing RAM and power on the system with the PSU, power switch, RAM module and Processor installed on the motherboard. Attached your monitor on the onboard video at the motherboard...See if this works.........

Sorry, didn't understand that completely...

Alright, I got fixed and all. After like months, I figured out the problem was with....the power switch in the case. Not common, so never found the problem for the first three months. Tried jumpstarting with a screwdriver on the pins, and it boots up like normal. Got a new case, new 22 inch monitor, Win 7 on it, and all's running pretty awesome.

Hi,

Just found this site.

I searched and searched google, but cant seem to GET a simple straight forward answer to a couple of questions.

the questions are:

(1) How does bus speed RELATE to the system clock

(2) Why do the buses on a motherboard operate at DIFFERENT speeds?

Hope someone can explain this to me in simple terms ?

cheers

jasonTry Googling again, lots of info out there..

http://www.directron.com/fsbguide.html#part1

I start up my computer and then sometimes before I even login I get a BSOD saying something about the display driver stopped responding and it may be hardware or software.  Ive tried the driver 8.10, 8.11, and 8.12 and it all does it.  It did the same thing when I used XP.  On vista, the BSODs go away in LIKE 1 second but it just BSODed a couple minutes ago and the BSOD jsut stayed there and it didnt restart it self. If i finally get logged on then I go to this site and answer some stuff but then sometimes it just goes to a white screen when I am on the internet (never happens at all when my computers been on for awhile or Im not browsing the internet).  One time I got the white screen, then PRESSED the reset button like always, and then all the fans and lights turned off completly, then back on for a sec, then back off, then back on once more, then back off and back on.  Then the BIOS looked different and said BIOS chcksum error and then RESTARTED and booted fine.  I know it wasnt power issue cause the clock stayed on and so did my sisters music.  I ran a memtest tons of times and it never had any errors.  I suspect it to be the graphics card.  What do you guys think? I tried to install 9.2 drivers but they wont install!Navigate to: C:\Windows\Minidump folder.
If you see any .dmp files, zip all of them, and attach zipped file to your next reply.

Make sure...
1. Right-click My Computer, and then click Properties.
2. Click the Advanced tab (Vista: click Advanced system settings).
3. Under Startup and Recovery, click Settings to OPEN the Startup and Recovery dialog box.
4. Clear the Automatically restart check box, and click OK the necessary number of times.
5. Restart your computer for the settings to take effect.
heres the file and I unchecked auto restart

[attachment deleted by admin]YEAH, definitely your video card, or its driver.
All errors are:
VIDEO_TDR_TIMEOUT_DETECTED/GRAPHICS_DRIVER_TDR_TIMEOUT
in atikmdag.sysSo video card for shure then because all 3 different driver versions did it and I cant even install 9.2You shouldn't run two threads about the very same issue. You know better, than that.
Card, itself may be bad.That was about a different thing... getting vista to stop downloading drivers by itself.  It kinda turned into the same thing somehow though...I thought so

I have a 15" crt Midwest Micro monitor which I can no longer adjust width except for a 1/16" I have seen solutions that it could be a diode or OPEN capacitor my question,  is there not more that could be WRONG up front starting at the IC as it hardly goes from switch to horizontal stage?

  JohnHave you tried changing the size with the monitor controls? Also, your graphics CARD utility MIGHT have some options to change the width and hight height

Hi, I just joined the forum, and feel I can contribute as much as I ask.
This may be a low tech question, but I'm looking for a/few perspectives.
I recently had a power outage, since then my computer will not boot correctly.
I am RUNNING XP on it right now, the computer is a Dell XPS gaming tower, about 5 years old.
When I turn it on, it usually gets as far, as the recovery mode,ie last known good config, safe mode, etc.
If I select any of them, I get blue screened. Just for the *censored* of it I tried a different sata port. When I do this, it prompts me for setup, ie Raid Vol 1. not defined. Ctrl F1 for config, F2 for setup.
I already checked the H.D. on a SATA H.D. dock and the data on the H.D. seems all intact.

Sorry for the length explanation, I just WANTED to try and be thorough.
Any suggestions?
Thank you.hi im terry, this problem could be tricky. try loading bios setup, or change your hardware one at a time or reinstall them. It could be your graphics card or your config file corrupted. have you tried to reinstall windows factory settings. Good luck Quote from: bluesteel on March 09, 2009, 09:34:11 AM

When I turn it on, it usually gets as far, as the recovery mode,ie last known good config, safe mode, etc.
If I select any of them, I get blue screened.

hi im terry, this problem could be tricky. try loading bios setup, or change your hardware one at a time or reinstall them. It could be your graphics card or your config file corrupted. have you tried to reinstall windows factory settings. Good luck

What is the "exact" error message and/or numbers, if any, on the blue screen?

Do you have your windows CD?

Nice job.   When the "inaccessible boot device" message appears on a Blue Screen of Death, you're allowed to mention it (if it's present).

I plan to buy SEVERAL used computers for my small BUSINESS. I am a little confused on which processors are faster than the others in general terms. How would you rank Pentium 4, Pentium D, Pentium 4HT, Duo, and Quad processors. Example: is a duo processor speed of 2.2 faster than a Pentium 4 3.4? Thanks for the help. The advantages of dual core processors are their ability to multitask more efficiently than single processors.  While the clock speed of a single processor may be faster than that of a dual core processor, the dual core has its advantages.A Dual Core CPU can be both faster and slower then a P4, because a Dual Core CPU is in effect, 2 CPUs in one, however, what can happen is a program can be older, and only utilize/use one core, so then you have it running at 2.2GHz, whereas the p4 would offer 3.2GHz


However, this being said, for office/business work, EVEN a 2.0Ghz P4 will be more than plenty to run Word/Excel/Emails.
The more important thing is the AMOUNT of RAM that is in them, you will wast at least 512MB for XP and 1GB for Vista.

Also, unless they are all the same price, (for some weird reason, Dual Core CPUs/motherboards are more EXPENSIVE), the P4 Machines will most definitely be cheaper.

Plugging Laptop to TV?
I have a VGA port and a s-video on my tv

So I bought one of these

The problem is (stupid me didn't check) both the s-video port on the adapter and the s-video port on my tv are female hence I can't CONNECT them

And there doesn't seem to be any ADAPTERS which VGA to s-video (male)

Any solutions?TAKE a s video cord from a dvd player or something and plug it into the tv on END and the computer the other end.  Most of those s-vids from dvd players and stuff have both male

HP Pavillion laptop
Win Vista
3gb RAM
Plenty of hard drive space

After boot, can play music fine but after a while, I get a 'shudder' in my AUDIO with either Win Media Player or iTunes.

Read on another post COULD be sound card drivers so will check and reinstall but would be grateful for other ideas.

Thanks,
-MikeMikeGoodfellow,Welcome to the CH FORUMS. Download VLC Media Player (it's free) and try your same media files again and see if that solves the problem. VLC has more audio codecs than most other audio players and if it solves the problem then it was a LACK of certain codecs that was the problem. goodluck,truenorth
P.S. Only do this if after the reinstall of the sound card drivers doesn't work (unless of course you would LIKE to have another media player--does video as well.