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Hello, I just built a new computer, I got everything hooked up (hopefully right) and when I start it the only thing that I noticed was the GRAPHICS card fans aren't running but the LED on the card is green.  It's a Sapphire Radeon HD 4850 x2.  the graphics card is getting power but the fans aren't running, why?  Both 8pin and 6pin power connectors are connected to the card, so it's got the power, and the Led is Green. It's plugged into the right slot, PCI-E.  So if anyone has a idea throw it my way... Cause I don't have a clue.  Not getting any input from the graphics card to the monitor.

Here's a list of all the hardware on this computer.

ASUS M4A79T Deluxe AM3 DDR3 AMD 790FX ATX AMD Motherboard

AMD Phenom II X4 940 Deneb 3.0GHz Socket AM2+ 125W Quad-Core Black Edition Processor Model HDZ940XCGIBOX

SAPPHIRE 100270SR Radeon HD 4850 X2 2GB 512-bit (256-bit x 2) GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card

Thermaltake Thoughpower W0178RU 850W ATX12V V2.2 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI NVIDIA SLI Certified NVIDIA QUAD-SLI APPROVED 80 PLUS Certified Modular ACTIVE PFC Power Supply

CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TR3X6G1866C9DF

Cooler Master CPU Cooler Hyper 212

Western Digital VelociRaptor WD1500HLFS 150GB 10000 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive

Western Digital CAVIAR Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive


That vid card may be DOA...

Hi.

I am having some issues with my on-board audio device/drivers. I recently upgraded from an old VIA mobo to a newer one [new board is a Asrock 4coreDual - SATA2 R2.0], and everything except the sound comes up fine. I've browsed the internet for hours trying to figure out what the issue may be.

I've tried to download and install the UAA hotfix that was mentioned on several sites, but as I am running WinXP Pro (SP3), the FILE does not install. I have looked in my Add/Remove Programs to see if there are any old audio drivers, and there are none listed. In Device Manager, I cannot uninstall the device, it gives an error saying the device may be NEEDED to boot.

When I try to install the proper drivers [Realtek High Definition Audio DRIVER], I get the error: 0XE0000227 "Driver Installation Failure". 

The only thing I haven't done is go into the registry, as I saw was mentioned on a few sites. I am not sure what I'd be looking for.. My old Audio Drivers were the AC'97 Drivers; could this present a CONFLICT if the old drivers are not properly removed? Will the windows repair console take care of this issue, or am I simply missing something?

I did have one other device in the Device Manager that was "unknown". I was able to remove this device and it did not show again when I rebooted the system; I have no clue what the device could have been or why it wasn't working properly, everything before the Motherboard change was working perfectly and I haven't added any new components except the new Motherboard and processor.

Any help with this is appreciated! Have you installed the chipset drivers for the motherboard?  It could be that those need to be installed first.
Like I said, everything came up just fine. Windows loaded properly, everything was perfect except for the sound drivers; all I got was that Error everytime I tried to load the drivers.

So I decided to reinstall windows, formatted my drive [complete format, so there are no old files or drivers/devices/registry errors to possibly mess things up]. I go to install windows, and after the initial installation, the machine reboots itself and continues installation. I get the screen where it is continuing the installation and splashes the Windows XP features. Approx Time Remaining: 39 Minutes.

After about 1 minute of waiting, the machine suddenly turns off by itself. It does this every time at this point in the installation. I have no idea why, I have used the same Installation Disc many TIMES to do this with this system.

Could it be that I would need to install the VIA chipset drivers first, before Windows can be installed? I have issues doing this without Windows, as it asks for a Floppy Disk to be inserted to create some sort of database if I boot from the motherboard's Driver disc, and I do not currently have a Floppy Drive installed.

Tomorrow I will try to install windows again after I put my old Motherboard and Processor setup back in the machine. I had no issues doing clean installs with fresh Hard Drives before, so I'm curious if its something I'm missing with the new Motherboard.

My system was working fine, and I could have settled without sound as a minor inconvenience, but my impatience got the best of me and now nothing works at all. 


Any help is greatly appreciatedI managed to complete the installation when I got home this morning, after leaving my computer unplugged all night. More than likely the rebooting was due to overheating, as when I attempted the install before the computer had been running for hours.

The Drivers have now installed correctly and I get some sound. Seems that certain applications cannot recognize the sound device and do not operate [Windows Media Player] but the sound in other applications like games work perfectly.

I guess I'll have to settle, its working well enough for me and I've had my last headache over it.



Thanks.

Ive had this PROBLEM for a couple months... i have realtek highdefinition audio.. anyways when i play music or a game there will be this annoying fuzzy breaky sound over the main sound its so annoying... so i went to the store to replace my 90$ speakers with a cheap 30$ pair.. pretty good speakers IMO... got home same thing... reformatted my PC... same thing... idk what could be done... maybe a un UPDATED software idk...I GET a fuzzy sound when you use a wireless device near speakers.  For example.  If i send a text message and pleace my cell phone near the speakers / subwoofers when it is sending i will hear som fuzzy sounds.

So try to move any sound devices away from any wireless devices (roughters, radios, cordless phone, cell phones)  Or check you cables and make shure your not stretching them..  or just LIVE with it.i actully think its my sound card cause it is being a pain in the *censored*.... and it just randomly started out of the blue never messed with anything ... o well i bought a new Mobo anyways... realtek high def can suck [email protected]I have RealTek on my HP & the 1st 3weeks I had it, it was WIERD & Echoey;:

So I Opened up the RealTek Control Panel,   The Orange spkr on the task bar an go into the Sound Effects and make sure it's not on a really wierd setting.....Set to None

Can also go to Cont Panel>Sound .Enhancements & Advanced & make sure 'tis nothin' there amiss

Still Wierd of fuzzy check your Comp Maker's Website for any driver updates as the ones that Windows sticks in there with AutoUpdate may not always work with every make of Comp

Hopefully I'm not oversimplifying the question. I'm looking for a gaming card, and I need some feedback on the following two options.

$150 for the GeForce 9800GT
$200 for the Radeon HD 4850

Any advice?  Thanks Good to seeya again Hopester ! !

I'd say the 4850 is probably worth the EXTRA bread...are you buying online ? ? QUOTE from: patio on March 02, 2009, 11:19:22 AM

Good to seeya again Hopester ! !

I'd say the 4850 is probably worth the extra bread...are you buying online ? ?

I am about ready to chuck this out the window only cause of a serious of issues other then this as well.  I am about ready to profan profoundty.  See if you guys can aid in solveing it.  Its a dell dimension 4100 it generates an yellow a c d an a green b but there are no cards in the slots EXCEPT the video.  Then after awhile they go green some times an show invaild boot disk insert disk into drive a.    Other times it generates a ram or video issue.  I tried other ram and another video card.  The floppy drive cable was bad which solved some of the issues but I still get whats listed.It sound like the safe mode screen for monitors. Have u tried to see if it monitor is set to digital or analog. Go to the Dell website and download the drives. Also have u tried a different monitor? I have an its not the monitor I tried this with two differnt ones same errors, also tired the drivers on dell.OK bring us up to speed...
Where did this latest machine come from ? ?
Was it running when you got it ? ?
Have you swapped another vid card in there and installed it's drivers to determine if the one that's in there now is faulty ? ?
Which of your many hard drives has been put into this machine ? ?
Have you ran an Everest report and posted it here so we know what's in that machine ? ?sorry patio I ment for this to kind of close.  Any how I had it and made post about in here along time ago.  It was running before I wanted to see if some parts worked.  However I never did cause I seen right off that there bad.  The card displays so I assume its not that.  I had tried another  one in the system however.  It only has a single 80 gb maxtor.  No, I had to format the drive just for the machine to see it again.So does the machine now have video ? ?
If so are you able to install Windows on the Maxtor and re-install all the Dell drivers ? ?
Dell will ship you a Restore CD foe a small shipping cost if you want to resiscitate this machine...
If not state what your goals for it are...This has video it just isnt displaying like it should like I said that it only displays in 16 color and it has a yellow question mark in device DRIVER.  No I wasnt able to install all the drivers or much of anything cause of this and it wanting higher COLORS and such.  Let's go back to basics for a refresher course on reviving a dead or dying machine....
Start with a clean formatted hard drive.

Collect ALL neccessary Drivers for that machine (in Dell's case these should always come from Dell with the exception being an add-on video card...if the vid card was original in the Dell you still need to use the Dell drivers.) These can be found at Dell's site simply by visiting their site and entering the machine's Service Tag # from the back of the machine.

Install Windows and setup all time info user info etc. Re-boot a few times and power down.
Next install all Drivers in this order:
MBoard/chipset drivers
Network adapter drivers ( these are sometimes included with the chipset bundle )
Video Drivers
Sound controller drivers.

Then any other addon devices.

Re-boot after each driver install to make sure it is complete then move on to the next one.

When finished any tweaking to the display/sound needed can be DONE at this time.

Install all your protection apps, update them and run complete scans.

Then travel to the Windows Update site to GRAB all the neccessary updates.
Re-boot also when completed.

Congratulations ! You have now done a successful install of an OS and have rescued a machine from the scrap heap.

You may want to copy this info and save it somewhere for future rescues...actullay cause of that it wont allow me to connect or install the requried driver too.  I had went to the dell site and tried all the drivers except the one I know that doesnt go to the card.Start over and follow the instructions step by step...
Use another machine that has internet connection to DLoad all the neccessary drivers and burn them to a CD or put them on a flash drive...
The instructions above are very clear and if done in order will work...period.heres the other thing other then not being able to get a hold of them after changeing machines.  I get this screen which isnt set in my bios http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk403/squall_131/DSC01005.jpg  it stays on there for about 1:30 for some reason?  It never done that before and usually when its working okay will hit the boot screen in about 30 secs Quote from: squall_01 on February 23, 2009, 11:16:57 AM

heres the other thing other then not being able to get a hold of them after changeing machines.  I get this screen which isnt set in my bios http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk403/squall_131/DSC01005.jpg  it stays on there for about 1:30 for some reason?  It never done that before and usually when its working okay will hit the boot screen in about 30 secs

Hi. Ithink I have fried my puter, Demon, trying to put ram INSIDE of it! All it does now when I plug it in is beep, beep, beep...nothing on screen, NOTHING ANYWHERE! Needless to say the part is not in it now, can't figure out what happened...any suggestions or condolences will be appreciated. unome So you took the new ram out and put in the old? Take it all out except for one stick.  What HAPPENS? Also, is it the right type of ram? Is it in the right slotyes, took out the new ram, left in the old and all it does now when I plug it in is beep...I run XP, is a HP pavillliona305w, got the ram from 4allmemory
512 DDR-266(PC2100) System memory 512-261828DDC2.5 (80636) B32
I thought it would work but now this...am using a little acer I bought off a guy and even though I have little hands I can barely type on it...and I am having some serious grief issues over this, I loved my little Demon!Did you move the original ram?NO....should I?I just got off the phone with my resident 'computer guy', he said he would check it out like Wednesday, can't now because his cat is dieing and I think I am in for a long weekend helping him through that, and I will cuz he is a nice dude and takes food like pizza as payment for helping Demon....but if you guys have any ideas I would sure appreciate them. He mentioned something about an error in the memory bank,something like that. So THANKS for helping me, guess I should take off the black armband, huh?:-) laters, unomeSo you didnt move the ram from where it was at all... hmmm How much ram is in there originally and how many sticksOriginally there was just the one stick located on the left side FACING the inside of the computer, put the new one in the right side slot, computer was unplugged, plugged it in and all it does now is beep on and on untill I unplug it or hold  the button in. I suspect something bad has gone wrong with Demon due to my wanting extra ram to make him faster but instead I have brain damaged him, or like the Mother Board. What happens if I take the memory stick that is on the left side and put it in the empty slot on the right side? Hoping for help, unomeYou should have put the new one in right next to the original oneI did that, that was when the problem occurred. I will wait and have my guy check it out when he can as I have explained that I put the new stick in and that is what caused the problem in the first place, will probably sue 4allmemory for the cost of the computer as I think they caused this by sending out inferior products..just joking, I suspect they are a fly by night operation without a penny to their name. So thanks for all the valuable INFORMATION but will stick with what I know, my personal computer guy.Thought I would send this pic of the inside of Demon...if anyone has worthwhile information concerning the problem I have encountered with Demon please advise me. Thanks, unome


[attachment deleted by admin]Ive never herd of that place. Buy from newegg if you are in TEH UShave you tried putting the RAM back the way it was?#1. I put in the new ram stick, turned the computer on, beep, beep, beep...
#2. I took the new stick out, turned the computer on, beep, beep, beep.....
#3. I took out the old ram stick, turned on the computer, beep, beep, beep...
#4. I put both ram sticks in, turned on the computer, beep, beep, beep....
#5. I took out the new stick, turned on the computer, beep, beep, beep...
#6. I now have only the original ram stick in the computer and when I turn it on all that it will do is beep, beep, beep, beep, on and on, no monitor, no mouse, nothing, just BEEP, BEEP, BEEP, BEEP, BEEP, BEEP.....
#7. I am going to get my computer guy to look it over, so there is no need for any further questions concerning Demon...SUGGESTIONS such as 'plug this in, hold that in, pull that out, etc are more than welcome. unomeI had this happen recently....steady stream of beeps. Turned out to be the floppy drive power connection not seated.

Hey,
Could anyone please check this wish list on Newegg.com for me I'm taking my old machine and selling the usable parts together as a barebone system. So would anyone please be kind enof to check this list and double check to make sure everything's compatible. I'm mostly worried about the motherboard to the computer case.
Thanks everyone.

https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=11232246

Case:
    APEVIA X-Plorer ATXB8KLW-BK Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144102
Motherboard:
GIGABYTE GA-E7AUM-DS2H LGA 775 NVIDIA GeForce 9400 HDMI Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128363
Video card:
EVGA 01G-P3-N959-TR GeForce 9500 GT 1GB 128-bit GDDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130395
Power Supply:
SeaSonic S12 II SS-380W ATX12V V2.3 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151032
CPU:
Intel PENTIUM E5300 2.6GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80571E5300 - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116074
Ram:
Crucial Ballistix 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664AA80A - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148212
Hard Drive:
Seagate ST3640323AS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148335
Disk BURNER:
Pioneer 20X DVD±R DVD Burner Black SATA Model DVR-216DBK - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827129032
CPU Heatsink:
Scythe SCNJ-2000 120mm SLEEVE CPU Cooler - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185074


I would like it for person use in general i play games and do ALOT of video editing that's why I'm selling my my old system so i can update. I'm looking for under 600$. Thanks sorry for not putting links in the first place.That link takes me to a register page..Welcome to the forums Nate.
Newegg's wishlist feature requires registration, so if anyone wants to check your parts they need to search Newegg for them.  Would you mind updating your post with the links to the items, please?
It all looks compatible, but what's your budget?  What are the primary purposes of this computer?I don't have time right now to go over the whole list, but that graphics card is quite weak.
Something like this woudl be a better choice, and is almost the same price after rebate (same price before).
That CPU cooler isn't necessary unless you're overclocking or the stock cooler's noise will bother you.
I'd suggest a beefier PSU too, for future expansion.Agreeded. The gpu is weak. The one calum posted is better.  A better cpu for shure too Quote from: computeruler on February 28, 2009, 01:28:13 PM

A better cpu for shure too

i'm having problems with my cd ROM.actually, the FIRST problem was that the cd rom is not WORKING good. i cnt eject it. i took the cd rom out of my cpu to fix it. then i tried to power on the cpu even without the cd rom but it suddenly STARTED to fail to post the POST. the prompt indicated that the system is not working because it can not detect the cd rom or it is corrupted. i dont understan it. it suppose to work without the cd rom, right?please help me...please... Double Post.
See your other TOPIC for replies...
Topic Closed

My HDD failed on my LAPTOP so I bought a new HDD.  The new HDD is recognized in my BIOS but windows will not boot.  It is set to boot from CD first, but nothing happens.  A black screen appears and there is only a blinking white line.  What exactly are you trying to do?
Install Windows on brand new HARD DRIVE?
Are you booting from Windows CD? Legit one?Yes and Yes and Yes.  New HDD, trying to install windows, legit copy.  Sound like there is other hardware PBLM.since it is recognised in bios &settings are correct.When you boot from Windows CD do you see:
Press any key to boot from CDNo, there is nothing.  Just a black screen. How were you able to access BIOS, since the screen is black?It isn't black at that time.  I set it to boot from CD but it just won't boot the cd or something.  It goes to a black screen. Do you have the OS disc in the tray? then shut down & rebootI did that many times. Like i said in a previous POST there is another device PBLM:[ Broni ]could it be the settings on the drive?[sata or ide causing this?I don't know what this means. 
The hard drive is a WD Scorpion SATA drive
Quote from: xavier on February 28, 2009, 10:42:29 PM

Like i said in a previous post there is another device PBLM:[ Broni ]could it be the settings on the drive?[sata or ide causing this?

[ Broni ]could it be the settings on the drive?[sata or ide causing this?

Any Ideas why every time I reboot (cold or WARM) my computer stops and aks me to hit f4 to ENTER setup. When it goes to setup I can hit ESC and ENTER and it goes on and boots.
I am running a P4 2.8, I Gig Mem, 500 Gig SATA HD, Two DVD drives.
It worked fime before I changed from IDE HD to SATA. I also went from 2 512 Mem Chips to 1 1Gig
chip. Computer runs fine after it boots with no issues at all.Post your boot.ini file: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/289022Where do I find it?Read the link, please.[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition" /noexecute=optin /fastdetect

Is this what you're looking for?Yes. Is it your boot.ini, or you COPIED it from that page?it is mine.It looks normal.
Hopefully someone else will come up with ANOTHER idea.Thanks for the try. I am stumped.

My MS wireless keyboard does not work when I first start the computer.  I have to start then restart to get it to work.  I have just installed a new Asus M3A78 pro mobo.  I did not find anything in bios to change.  The wireless receiver plugs into the ps2 socket and USB for the mouse, which works fine.  The keyboard worked with the old mobo, and a wired keyboard works on the first start.
I have:
win XP
Asus M3A78 Pro
AMD Athlon 64x2 4800+
Crucial 4GB ram
Pri HD WD 200 GB IDE
SATA HD 80 GB
Thanks in advance.Some many people have trouble with
wireless keyboard and mice that they just give it up.Things to check :
Batteries
Remove any other wireless devices from the area including cordless and cell phones.
Turn on "enable legacy USB devices" in the BIOS.
Re install the drivers for the wireless set since the MBoard has changed.Batteries are new.
There no other wireless devices in the area.
"enable legacy USB devices" in the BIOS is on 'auto'
Re installed the drivers for the wireless set.
Still the same. 
This doesn't work even in the bios until I restart(I think this what they call  a warm boot).
Probably because it is a USB device which doesn't kick in until Windows LOADS the USB drivers...
So if you need access before that invest in a PS2 keyboard and mouse combo...The mouse is USB, which works on the first start, but the keyboard is PS2.  It used to work even in the bios [on a cold boot](other m/b).Probably a stupid question but is the transmitter and receiver in the same place as it was before?

I bought a SIMILIAR MS wireless set up for my daughter it uses a ps2 CONNECTION for the keyboard and I use the usb for the mouse. She has had it for 2.5 years and I have only just today replaced the batteries but I also had to press the connect button on the bottom of the mouse. Maybe resetting the keyboard would do the same thing. LOOK on the bottom of the keyboard and press the connect button. Hope it helps.Yes there in the same place, only about 6" from the keyboard.  I've tried the connect button a lot.  I tried typing while it was booting to activate the green lights on the receiver but nothing works.  I can't get it to activate in
XP until I restart from XP.  Then it activates as normal.When all else fails, read the instructions!  I assumed the dual port receiver used both the USB and the PS2 plugs but when I tried a wired keyboard, I got two keyboards working at the same time.  When I left the PS2 unplugged it worked fine.  I guess that's what 'patio' was trying to tell me.
Thanks for the help!Well, I will give you a $1 for it
...if you include postage.Yep.
It was...

hello guys...  i have TROUBLE on keyboard not working at my NOTEBOOK Compac NC6000... Please HELP me..... sorry my english not good... thx KEYBOARDS do sometimes fail. if you don't WANT to take apart your computer to try to fix it the cheapest way would be to purchase a regular desktop keyboard and plug it into your laptop. atleast your laptop would work.Did you try reinstalling drivers?

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodNameId=367369&prodTypeId=321957&prodSeriesId=367367&swLang=8&taskId=135&swEnvOID=228#11318What exactly happens?
It stopped working all of sudden?

I have a HIS Ati Radeon Hd 4650 just like the one in this link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161250  I would like to know if I could get two to work together.  Is there something I need?  I thought it would be cheaper than going all out and getting a $200 gpu, so I would like ot just get another cheap 4650.  Any help much appreciated.Depends on your MBoard and PSU...well, lets see, i have a 750watt psu, and a GIGABYTE GA-MA74GM-S2No 
Your motherboard only has one PCIE x16 slotwll, whatever.  Do any of you have any good recommendations of CHEAP gpu's with at least 1gb?  I have a 512 and it cannot even handle 1080p very well.  CHEAP!This is from tigerdirect.com it should work just fine if your on a tight budget.

Video / Graphics Cards > PCI Express 2.0 > 512 MB
 
 
BFG GeForce 9800 GTX + Video Card - 512MB GDDR3, PCI Express 2.0, SLI Ready, (Dual Link) Dual DVI, HDTV, HDMI Support, VGA Support 1  User Rated 
 
 
 
 
 
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My brother just told me that bought some speakers for his computer and asked me how he can increase the base volume on his computer, to utilize the full CAPACITY of the speakers....  Would he need a special sound card for increased base, or is there other options to accomplish this...


thanksAll sound setting depend on sound card abilities. Speakers will take whatever the sound card will give them.That would be bass.  What speakers has he got? Do they have subwoofer? If theres no subwoofer there wont be good bass.  If there is a sib though sometimes they have a bass knob.  Also you can turn up the lower frequinces up with an equilizer in your audio program.  What audio program are you using? There also might be an EQ in your soundcard settings.
So tell me
1.) what speakers
2.) what audio program
3.)what sound card
if you need any help just tell mebass....lol    that's what I meant



anyway, these are good questions........Let me FIND out that info. and get BACK ....ASAP

thanks

yup of course you could always buy a whole new subwoofer If you really like bass like me. Like those cars you hear sometimes.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3415
or http://www.audiodiscounters.com/shopping/RE-AUDIO-RE12D4-p-2208.html  All should hit hard Start->Run, Sndvol32,  In "Play Control" click "Advanced".

Bass and treble sliders are present here.Windows can not find Sndvol32.do you have the 64-bit version of Vista?this is really for hotdog...

if sndvol32 does work do sndvol - Except the new version of sndvol doesn't offer "advanced".thats why i was asking...Wait is that sndvol32 a windows beta COMMAND? Cause it didnt work on vista.  Becides, I thought the sound card had to support those bass and treble things too. Cause some didnt Quote from: computeruler on February 27, 2009, 04:16:15 PM

Wait is that sndvol32 a windows beta command? Cause it didnt work on vista.  Becides, I thought the sound card had to support those bass and treble things too. Cause some didnt

Well the person has windows 7

If I fuse a two vga of directx 9 (ati 1***), THEREFORE will it be directx 10  ... I just guess ... Please help me ABUT this things ... THX no, they will both run dx9. besides, xp doesn't SUPPORT dx10.Is it worse or good to have three vga of crossfire (ATI 1***) instead of ATI HD 4870 ? what are your option this time ?i'm not a big fan of ati, and don't really use ati cards, so i can't say from personal experience. honestly though, there is really no need to do triple crossfire or tri-sli, it's a waste of time and money in my opinion. i would say just do the ONE 4870. it has enough graphics power lolIt depends on your graphics cards, budget, motherboard, games you play, and the rest of your computer especially power supply.

When I have gone to My Computer> Local Disk (F:) - my Maxtor 500GB Basics external hardrive I get a pop up SAYING "The disk in drive F is not formatted. Do you want to format it now? Y/N." All seems legit but could be wrong, could be some malware. I don't want to click yes and have my music & video libary deleted, I would cry. I will run AVG full scan tonight, and the quicker ones tomorrow when I COME back to see what you guys suggest. I can't play files in WMP that I originally could which are on the hardrive. This is the error from WMP;

"You've encountered error message C00D11B1 while using Windows Media Player. The following information might help you troubleshoot the issue.

Cannot play the file

Windows Media Player cannot play the file. You might encounter this error message for one of the following reasons:

Your sound device, such as a sound card or sound controller, requires an updated driver. To determine if an updated driver is available, see Windows Update at the Microsoft Web site, or see the sound device MANUFACTURER's Web site.

Your sound device is not functioning PROPERLY. Try using Device Manager to check the status of your sound device.

  To check the status of your sound device

You do not have a sound device installed on your computer. Install a sound device, and then try to play the file again. For details, see your computer manufacturer's or sound device manufacturer's Web site.

You are trying to play a file on the Internet and the server might be temporarily unavailable or there might be a network issue. Try again later.

You are trying to play an MP3 file that contains compressed ID3 headers. The ID3 header is a portion of the file that stores the song's album information (for example, the song name, artist name, album name, and genre). This information is sometimes called a "tag."

To fix the problem, make a copy of the file and then use a non-Microsoft ID3 tag editing program to remove or reset the file's ID3 headers. After you remove the ID3 headers, Windows Media Player should be able to play the MP3 file.

Attempting to remove ID3 headers might damage the file and make it unplayable. Therefore, always make a copy of the file before you edit it.

If this solution does not resolve the problem, the file might be corrupted."

Any help much appreciated.

Josh

Maxtor has had a rash of bad external drives. Problem being inadequate COOLING and the drives overheat.

Is this a constant problem (or) only pops up after use of the drive?

It looks like the the Partition Tables are gone and it thinks the drive is unpartitioned and unformatted. Likely cause is drive failure and not a virus, since I virus would take out the MBR on all drives if that type of issue.

If this is not a constant issue and only pops up after a certian period of use, I would copy your data off of that drive to another location. If a constant disk read issue where it wants to reformat, you may need to use a hard drive data recovery package to recover, and depending on how bad the data loss is you may have a total loss unless you can afford the $1000+ of a professional data recovery center.

I use this tool for blown drives that still spin up... http://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm

My computer is a desktop running Vista Ultimate with an Intel motherboard.

It was doing fine for nearly a year with  powered stereo speakers. I thought the speaker set went BAD for when there was no sound I unplugged them and they had a loud 60 HZ hum. I set them aside and plugged in another set of speakers I had that were unpowered. No sound, and I took this to be caused by the unpowered speakers. I then plugged in a PCI sound card and plugged the unpowered speakers into this expecting great things. They do work but at a miserable low level. With the volume all the WAY up. I have good drivers with the sound card and device manager says all ok.

I don't understand this system too well. Does anyone have any ideas?

What voltage and waveform are normal on the stereo output jacks?

THANKS for any suggestions.

 

    When You unplug your powered speakers & har a hum it is normal. This is noise from an ungrounded line. If you put your FINGER on the very end it will get louder. If you put your finger on the all 3 metal strips or just the 1 closest to the plastic of the plug, noise will cease. As for a normal soundwave it would look ragged & peaked as opposed to a standard sine-wave. It's level could be any where from 1 0r 2 mV[millivolts] up to 1 or 2 Volt depending on the board...
For this you may want to go to Control Panel >  Sound , Dbl Click & make sure your deviceis enabled and there is a meter with a BAR jumping up and down like the music would make it do.
If you have a Control Panel or Audio Mgr for the onboard sound or the sound board itself, open it and go thru to make sure nothing is amiss there.
Also be sure to check the obvious, ex.: headphones not plugged so that sound to speakers is cut off.....

I have a Acer Aspire T690 running Windows Vista and purchased a Ati Radeon HD 3650 512mb graphics card and followed the instructions to install to a T and when i restarted with monitor connected to new card it was blank w/no signal. Contacted company and they informed me that i need to change my Bios from on-board to pci-e the problem i have no idea in Acer bios what to change it all Latin to me. can anyone tell me step by step how to change onboard to pci-e in bios....tyDisable on-board (integrated) graphics adapter. Acers generally have not had very friendly full-featured bios's...hoping yours even has the option to disable it.  I have seen a few that have the option greyed out...unable to be shut off on the lower end models, but this is true for many lower end models not just acer.if this helps any my bios reads:  Phoenix-AwardBios/Cmos and the menu is this:

-Product Information
-Standard CMOS Features
-Advanced BIOS Features
-Advanced Chipset Features
-Intergrated Peripherals
-Power Management SETUP
-PnP/PCI Configurations

not sure which it would be in to turn the on-board of to use the pci-e have looked but not sure Quote from: hotsauceturtle on JANUARY 06, 2009, 11:39:07 AM

-Advanced BIOS Features
-Advanced Chipset Features
-Intergrated Peripherals

Advanced Chipset Features:
-System BIOS Cachable   (Enabled)
-Video BIOS Cacheable   (Disabled)
-Memory Hole At 15M-16M   (Disabled)
-PCI Express Root Port Func   (Press Enter)
******* VGA Setting*******
-PEG/OnChip VGA Control   (Auto)
-DVMT Mode   (Auto)
-DVMT/FIXED Memory Size   (MAX)

PEG Port

Common Options : Enabled, Disabled

Quick Review

This BIOS feature is nothing more than a toggle that enables or disables the PCI Express port.

When enabled, the PCI Express port is enabled and any installed PCI Express graphics card will function normally.

When disabled, the PCI Express port is disabled and any installed PCI Express graphics card will not function.

There isn't any use for this BIOS feature, except for troubleshooting purposes. You should leave it at the default setting of Enabled. Disabling it will prevent any installed PCI Express graphics card from working.

Hello,

Last night I needed to shut down my HP Pavilion(a6077c) PC. When I did, Windows began either installing or downloading updates (I assume installing, but I'm not 100%). At the time, we were disconnecting my wife's iMac to move to the living room and I disconnected the modem, not thinking it would interfer with the shut down of my PC.

I didn't monitor my PCs shut down, but I assume everything went ok as it was shut down when we came back into the room several hours later. I reconnected her iMac, the modem etc and started up both computers. Hers rebooted with no problems, however, mine turns on, fan is going, monitor is on etc but I only get a black screen.

I've tried getting into safe mode with no luck either. I do not have a Vista CD as it was INSTALLED on the PC from the Manufacturer. I removed the graphics CARD and reconnected it, still just black screen on start up.

I'm positive the problem has to do with the Window's Updates. Possibly a update to the graphics card that was interrupted?

I'm out of ideas and find it hard to believe it would be some kind of hardware issue when everything was working just fine before.

Any thoughts, suggestions, ideas, would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

Sorry, I should add that I tried another monitor and still had the same issue.
I've also unplugged and replugged everything into the PC and did the same with all power cords.

As I said it is an HP Pavilion PC running Windows Vista with a Samsung Sync Master 151v monitor.
I can try to give more specs if needed. The graphic card is the original.
The computer is not even 1 year OLD.

Do you get any image on the screen at all when you turn it on? You should be able to see the HP screen that comes up when you start the computer before windows loads. If you cant, then it is most likely a hardware problem. Do you hear any beeps? Have you tried a different monitor?Nothing at all comes up. No logo, no safe mode, no windows
Yes, I tried another monitor that works fine on a different PC.

Comp turns on just fine, fan runs, lights are all on as they should be.
Just can't get anything to display.Do you have dedicated VIDEO card, or on-board video?Hmmm, not really sure what you mean. I did take out what I believe is the video card and plugged it back into the motherboard. I also read somewhere to disconnect the hard drive, then reconnect, so I did that as well.
We have 2 other computers that we don't use, so I tried seeing if the video cards from either of those could go in this PC, but they don't look like they would fit properly.

The only other thing I can think of to do is try either and emergency boot disc (which I don't have) or a Vista/XP disc (which I also don't have) that will run automatically. I might lose all my files, but at least I'd have a computer again.

Still looking for any thoughts or ideas.

Thanks.Remove video card altogether. On-board video should kick in.A friend of mine did some research and found out that my particular HP computer is supposed to have on-board video. I can't find it anywhere however. I can easily remove the video card, but once I do that, I have no place to plug in the monitor at all.

My friend also gave me a linux disc to try (Ubuntu), but that doesn't bring up anything either.

I thought for sure it was just the video drivers, but now I'm wondering if the video card is indeed garbage now.

Any other ideas? I'm thinking the only other thing to do is try formatting

Quote from: Knight69 on January 06, 2009, 08:05:24 AM

Any other ideas? I'm thinking the only other thing to do is try formatting

I can easily remove the video card, but once I do that, I have no place to plug in the monitor at all.

Hello,

Last night I needed to shut down my HP Pavilion(a6077c) PC. When I did, Windows began either installing or downloading updates (I assume installing, but I'm not 100%). At the time, we were disconnecting my wife's iMac to move to the living room and I disconnected the modem, not thinking it would interfer with the shut down of my PC.

I didn't monitor my PCs shut down, but I assume everything went ok as it was shut down when we came back into the room several hours later. I reconnected her iMac, the modem etc and started up both computers. Hers rebooted with no problems, however, mine turns on, fan is going, monitor is on etc but I only get a black screen.

I've tried getting into safe mode with no luck either. I do not have a Vista CD as it was installed on the PC from the Manufacturer. I removed the graphics card and reconnected it, still just black screen on start up.

I'm positive the problem has to do with the Window's Updates. Possibly a update to the graphics card that was interrupted?

I'm out of ideas and find it hard to believe it would be some kind of hardware issue when everything was working just fine before.

Any thoughts, suggestions, ideas, would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

from your product specs, it has onboard video

Quote

from your product specs, it has onboard video

VGA port is disabled, because the sound card takes the slot: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00880853&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=3401269

Hello again, usb seems to be the source of all my troubles in life

I was given an old desktop computer  my INTENTION was just to play around with it I didn't expect it to work but amazingly it does - it's an unknown model of Inteva which I already learned went belly up around 2000, I think the computer was purchased around 1999 so there isn't very much info available. The motherboard I tracked down as a Biostar M6TLI, it's running WINDOWS 98, 128mb of Ram, 12GB hard drive, pentium 2 processor.

At first I thought it didn't have USB connectors, but I opened it up because there are 2 ports on the back clearly labled "USB" and I couldn't see anything connecting them to the motherboard, on closer inspection I found each one has a thick white plug with a cord running strait to the motherboard... so I thought I'd hook that computer up to the net and see about doing a few things to it but when I went to plug in the USB plug I was amazed that the ports were too small! Being a bit dimm in the room I thought I was wrong and tried to force one, there was a little spark and I quickly gave up - so what are these ports if not USB ports?

How do I/can I INSTALL a card to get USB ports on this computer?what is your mouse and keyboard plugged into???

You can get adapters for PCI*? INPUT to USB (green and purple inputs to usb)

Then from a usb port you can buy a USB HUB /Dock for many USB ports

From there you can daisy chain your daisy chains until you computer shorts your houses power

You werent forcing them in upside down were you? Quote from: NOT ADMIN :P on APRIL 18, 2008, 12:29:42 AM

what is your mouse and keyboard plugged into???

You can get adapters for PCI*? input to USB (green and purple inputs to usb)

Then from a usb port you can buy a USB HUB /Dock for many USB ports

From there you can daisy chain your daisy chains until you computer shorts your houses power

You werent forcing them in upside down were you?

Anyone can help me?

My motherboard is MS-7067 no SATA port, then I have BOUGHT adapter which can connect IDE with SATA.
I have connect SATA with primary IDE and secondary IDE with OLD ATA and DVD drive by set ATA as slave

When I go to system and maintenance, can see SATA as Unallocated, but can’t do New Simple volume on this SATA. Below is massage error

the operation failed to complete because the Disk MANAGEMENT console is not up-to-date. Refresh the view by USING the refresh task. If the problem persists CLOSE the Disk Management console, then restart Disk Management or restart the computer

My OS is Vista Ultimate
Thank you very much

hi everyone, i've got a new 500gb hard drive to replace my exisiting 20gb hd. computer is about 8 years OLD i think. (well old seagate HD says "032005" on the warrenty sticker so i GUESS that's showing the age?)

I've physically installed it, checked bios, all fine, inserted windows XP disk, it's gone through to formating & done that (all as 1 partitian & took about 2 or 3 hours).

but then next step

disk in cd drive 1
verifying DMI pool data.....
boot from atapi cd-rom: failure...
boot from atapi cd_rom

press any key to boot from cd........
a disk read error occured
press ctrl+alt+del to restart

disk in cd drive 2
verifying DMI pool data.....
boot from atapi cd_rom

press any key to boot from cd........
a disk read error occured
press ctrl+alt+del to restart

disk in laptop, laptop's on vista so LIMITING what i can do, but certainly showing up & giving me the option to run it, no sign of a disk problem & i've USED this disk before & haven't had a problem with it

the slave drive i have is 250gb & that's never been a problem. any ideas what the problem is or how to troubleshoot or fix it?

computer is a P4 1.6gh with 512 ram & disk i'm installing is XPDoes this XP CD have shiny holograms and say Microsoft all over it ? ?

Hello everyone,

I have a TOSHIBA Satellite P105-S6114 running XP. For the year that I've had it it has run great.  As of LATELY I haven't been able to use a CD in the DVD-R drive.  The CD tray opens, I put a CD into it, it tries to read it( I see the light turn on and hear the cd spin) but it just stops and won't recognize it.  I try to open it in "My Computer" but it just prompts me to insert a cd into the drive.  I don't know what happened in the past month to make this happen.  The CATCH is this.....  It will play a DVD just fine.  It recognizes it and plays it right away.  I updated the driver and even deleted the driver and started fresh.  Nothing worked. Has anyone ever heard of this?  Any help would be appreciated.  ThanksCould be the particular CD you put in there.

However, I once had a gateway laptop need a replacement Drive put in.  Maybe someone else has a better idea.Some DRIVES have a seperate laser for CD and DVD functions and also burning...sounds like a shot laser.
Still under warranty ? ?

im about to get a new comp as a replacement for my old Dell comp, i want to take out the ram from my old comp and put it into the new one except im wondering, since the ram im takin out is DDR 1 and the new comp has DDR 2 slots, is DDR 2 backwards compatible with DDR 1? nocrap. Quote from: macdad- on April 27, 2008, 06:01:22 PM

crap.

lucky your asked.

u could of fried your computer

The new computer doesn't come with some ram already included in package?

Quote from: NOT ADMIN :P on April 28, 2008, 12:25:28 AM

lucky your asked.

u could of fried your computer

Not likely. There's a notch in bottom of both type of memory. DDR1 won't even fit into a DDR2 slot. He would have broken the slot or the memory before even getting it in 

Quote from: quaxo on April 28, 2008, 12:29:11 AM

Quote from: NOT ADMIN :P on April 28, 2008, 12:25:28 AM

lucky your asked.

u could of fried your computer

Not likely. There's a notch in bottom of both type of memory. DDR1 won't even fit into a DDR2 slot. He would have broken the slot or the memory before even getting it in 

You force a ddr1 stick into ur comp, hold it in really hard, power on, then tell me what happened...

mmm... FRIED QUAXO!

ah. im wondering is the food over there as spicy as it seems?

Hi there:

In ocassions, when my computer has been off for several days, or when a power supply interruption (I have an UPS, but for just for 15 minutes) occurs and takes more than 15 minutes, my computer won't recognize both the keyboard and mouse when i turn it on again.

I those ocassions, i have to disconnect the computer several times, unplugging mouse and keyboard also, and, after several attempts, they come to life again.

It won't HAPPEN again for several days or weeks, until the power supply fails for a while or when the computer is off for several days.

The MACHINE is an AMD Athlon 64X2 Dual 4200+ based computer on an MSI motherboard. Although the same problem occurred with another AMD based computer i had before.

The keyboard is Genius and the mouse is Omega (optic). My previous computer failed in the same SITUATIONS. But only the mouse failed, it had a Genius mouse and a BenQ keyboard.

I have been having this problem since I bought it, 6 months more or less.

Does anybody know what this problem could be?

Thanks in advanve...

Rafael SoteldoAre these USB or PS/2 connections?  (Probably USB)?Hi Aegis:

No, i only use PS2 for my keyboard and mouse connectionsWelcome to the forums!

My answer is certainly not going to cover the problem, exactly.  I can understand that the mouse and keyboard may not work after interruption of power, but that sort of thing shouldn't be happening after you've shut down the computer and left it off for several days.

The system SEEMS to be acting like the PS/2 connectors have been unplugged while the power is on.  (I know you're not doing that.)  (The general advice is not to unplug the mouse and / or keyboard while the power is on, or to plug in either while the power is on -- it has the potential to cause physical problems with the computer.)

I have done it in the past, as an experiment, and found that when they are plugged back in while power is on, the system cannot detect them, and the computer must be restarted -- then the system 'sees' the devices plugged into the PS/2 ports.

I am sure that more experienced members of the forum will also give you input.You're right.

That's something I don't do either.

I know this problem is very odd!sorry but just to clarify are they straight ps2 or usb to ps2 converted (thru adapter)??

do you unplug and plug back in regularily? LANS? swap meets? move computer around the house??

the inputs may be physically dmg'd??

have you tried different peripherals?No, I don't.

I only unplug them when the problem arises.

My internet connection is via cable.

I don't need to be touching the back of the computer.No, you're right, Rafael -- you shouldn't have to mess with the back of the computer.
It's interesting that you're having trouble with both of the PS/2 based devices.

I have a P-4 PC with CD, FDD & USB ports and Windows XP.

I have created two user accounts viz an Administrative Account (Admin) and a Limited Account (User-1).

I want to disable the CD, FDD & USB ports by disabling these (under Hardware-> Device MANAGER) so that other users cannot ACCESS them. Some of the softwares like IIS, VB.NET etc. requires administrative privileges for running them.  If I give administrative privileges to a Limited Account (User-1),  the user may ENABLE these devises.  I don't want to happen this.

My QUESTION is -- How can I disable these devises so that  general users cannot enable these disabled devises eventhough the general user have administrative privileges to run softwares?If you are running Windows XP Professional explore gpedit.msc
If you are running Windows XP Home, you're out of luck.

Ever since upgrading the fan and ram in my computer, it has been shutting down and restarting unexpectedly, however the results vary.

When I try to run XP it usually started fine, although the animations were laggy and there were stray pixels, but it would die and restart any time you tried to do something intensive (ie. open firefox).

When I tried to run Ubuntu off of a live cd it would freeze at varying stages of boot.

I was also trying to upgrade to Windows 7 at the time so I tried running that disk. It would go through the loading files bit and play the starting windows animation (messed up like it was in xp) but it would blue-screen right after that and give me a "Bad-Pool-Error" message right after that (most of the time, a couple of times I managed to get half-way through the INSTALL, once it blue-screened with a different message, and the other it gave me a D:\ drive error (the hdd it was being installed on))

I have tested the memory using Memtest86, it failed part of test 5 on the first run through, but then passed 5 more run through.
I tried using each of the two new ram modules individually, both with the same results.
I tried disconnecting both hdds in case it was a virus, or overloading the psu, and got the same results
I tried sticking in a new gpu as it was using the integrated one before. This CLEARED up all of the animation and display issues, but then xp DIED right after the starting windows animation when using xp, and no difference with ubuntu or 7
I tried going back to the original cpu heat-sink/fan and got the same results
I tried going back to the original ram and got the same results

So at this point I am running out of ideas, my specs are:
Asus p5v800 mx motherboard
The new ram is 2 1GB PNY DDR PC3200 modules (The old was 512MB, I'm not SURE about the make and model)
The new heat-sink/fan is an OEM socket 775 fan
The cpu is a 3.2 Ghz Pentium 4 with HT
The PSU came with the case and doesn't give me any information on what it is.
The GPU added after-wards is a PCI Diablotek Radeon 7500 with 64 MB memory.Download & install HWMonitor.  Post screenshot.  While you're at it get CPU-Z.

i cant seam to find a water block for the radeon hd 5750. can i get some help to FOND one.A quick Google suggests that the TT AQUARIUS II waterblock (CL-W0038) should work

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835106059

The same Google also found people asking the same thing as you, and other people replying "Why would you want to water cool a 5750?"

http://www.facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=927022

and here

Quote

There isn't full cover waterblocks for the 5750, you must get universal GPU blocks but those only cool the GPU and nothing else.

Gfx Card : XFX HD5750 1GB w/ Danger Den Maze 5 waterblock

I installed a NEW 500gb HARD drive in my acer laptop.  Ran the SYSTEM disc.  But it won't show my 4gb of ram or my 500gb hard drive.  Shows my old config.  What's up with that?No idea what you are TALKING about. You need to explain IN DETAIL. What shows your old config? What does ram have to do with the hd? What are you talking about?

Ok im confused.

I understand a dual core processor is one processor with 2 cores, making multi tasking easier.

So if the dual core has 2 cores, does the i3 have 3, the i5 have 5, and the i7 have 7? Because i READ in a magazine the i7 has 3 cores. Someone help  The Core I3 is DC. The I5 uses the Clarkdale DC and the Penryyn QC from the 750. Not SURE if the same Penryyn is used for the Core I7. They are all QC in the 800 and 900 series except the 970 which has Six Cores.Penryn?  I think you're confused.
I3 has 2 cores, the i5 6 series has 2 cores with hyperthreading to make it seem like a quad, the i5 5 series has 4 cores, and the i7 series has 4 cores with hyperthreading to make it seem like an 8-core - the i7 970 and 980X are the exception, they have 6 cores with hyperthreading for a virtual 12 cores.i understand a bit better now, thankyouYour RIGHT Calum, my mistake. Was thinking of my Core 2 Duo. I should have said Lynnfield. TH. This is not as comprehensive as the FAQ's on Intel, but WORTH a read. My mistake will teach me not to surf while drunk.

I have this case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147023&T

This motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131381

This PROCESSOR: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103681

I have added 1 80mm fan on the side as intake near the CPU cooler. Originally I realized that my CPU temp was idle at around 45C which I thought was a little hot, so I added the fan and enabled cool'n'quiet in the bios which has dropped the CPU temp down to 37C. At full load my CPU temp is around 50C. What I'm really concerned about is my MB temp. It idles around 45C. I just got done playing a few hours of a game and I checked the temp and it was at 58C. I deem this to be too high. What can I do to lower my MB temp? Even idling at 45C seems to be a bit high, I would expect it to be more like 30-35C. I posted above the case, motherboard, and processor I have, just in case if anyone knew if these particular COMPONENTS ran hotter than most. Also I was hoping maybe someone could help me out with my case to get my TEMPS down. If you guys think that the temps aren't really any cause for concern then I'll quit worrying about it. Thanks in advance.Some boards have faulty sensors. The motherboard (system) temperature diode is under the battery near the Super I/O chip. Get a can of air and blow some over the battery. If you not see the temp immediately reduce then the sensor is not working. 58 is high; maybe the thermal grease on the northbridge is badly applied. If the board is new I would think about returning it since reapplying the grease might invalidate the warranty. Quote from: Salmon Trout on August 06, 2010, 02:24:40 PM

Some boards have faulty sensors. The motherboard (system) temperature diode is under the battery near the Super I/O chip. Get a can of air and blow some over the battery. If you not see the temp immediately reduce then the sensor is not working. 58 is high; maybe the thermal grease on the northbridge is badly applied. If the board is new I would think about returning it since reapplying the grease might invalidate the warranty.

Maximum operating temperature (°C)  55 - 74
Your temps seem normal to me.
I think this is yours:
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Athlon%20II%20X2%20250%20-%20ADX250OCK23GQ%20%28ADX250OCGQBOX%29.html

Hi there folks.
I need to lock a hard drive partition so that it would be in read-only mode,so that only the OS could read the softwares in it.

As i searched in the WEB i found some encryption softwares,but the problem is that they only work under windows,but soon as you boot the system with a cd than you will be able to format the partiton.

i was wandering if there is a way to make a FULL protection that would prevent the HD from format.
thanks in advance. Nothing free and easy. No yet.
Go to the Se agate site and look for the Drive Lock feature.
Here is the PR.
http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?locale=en-US&name=lock-it-up&vgnextoid=37565c70c6147110VgnVCM100000f5ee0a0aRCRD

And no, I do not work for them.

Wow. Geeks galore  Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 31, 2010, 01:31:07 PM

Nothing free and easy. No yet.
Go to the Se agate site and look for the Drive Lock feature.
Here is the PR.
http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?locale=en-US&name=lock-it-up&vgnextoid=37565c70c6147110VgnVCM100000f5ee0a0aRCRD

And no, I do not work for them.

I think I am getting the hang of  how HYPERTRANSPORT WORKS. After so long and going all over the Internet and getting more and more mixed up I went to Wikapedia.

I LOOKED up Hypertransport and I just want to know what this one SPEC meens?

Hypertransport 3.0
Link Width  32 Bit

I useto think that this was telling me that is moves Data in 32 Bit Chunks.

Or is it telling me wen it moves Data it USES a 32 Bit encapulationh???anyone

I THINK Geek-9pm should have focused on a different point, but a point related to "More is not better".  A key point here, which no one has explicitly mentioned, is, how much drive space does SAND (the OP) need?  I still have an 80GB HD in my Win XP system that's really been my main computer for years and still haven't run out of drive space.  Now, obviously, I don't accumulate lots of music files or thousands of digital photos from a high-megapixel camera, and I don't have huge game programs INSTALLED.

I suspect, for the things Sand NORMALLY does with his computer, he would not fill a 1TB HD even if he used that computer for the rest of his life.  But, I could be wrong since he has not stated, nor has anyone asked, what he normally does with his computer.

Having said that, the price difference between 250GB and 320GB or between 320GB and 500GB, etc., is rather small. So, unless your budget for this is very tight, no need to be very conservative in deciding what drive size to buy. Quote from: soybean on August 07, 2010, 09:03:38 AM

I think Geek-9pm should have focused on a different point, but a point related to "More is not better".  A key point here, which no one has explicitly mentioned, is, how much drive space does Sand (the OP) need? 

I do a lot of photos and videos so that is why I was going to upgrade the hard drive for the large amount of space it would give me for that type of work.

I recently ordered a new computer from pcspecialist and it doesn't work out of the box which is something I was afraid would happen.

It seems to boot fine everything turns on but the monitor will not turn on. ive tried two different monitors.

I tried to analyse the beep code, it beeps twice in total with about a 5 second gap between beeps.  Based on the beep codes for my mobo (asus p7h55-m evo) which I found at http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/amibeep.htm   I thought the problem could be with the ram.  As this is the easiest thing to change, I didnt mind reseating it, IM not to confident mucking about with any other hardware as I have no expierence.

Alas this didn't solve the problem and whats worse is now the computer will not beep at all on start up.  If anyone could explain the significance of this to me, or GIVE me any advice it would be greatly appreciated.

Ill post some specs for my computer if that will help

CPU: i5 750
MOBO: asus p7h55-m evo
RAM: 4gb crosair XMS3 DUAL DDR3 1600mhz
graphics card: GTX 465
600w PSUI can't tell if there is onboard video with that board.  It looks like there is from the angle I'm looking at it.  I'm using a dial up connection and having a hard time downloading images of the board right now.

Unplug the computer, open up the case and reseat the video card.. try powering BACK up..

If that doesn't work, unplug the computer, remove the video card, and plug the monitor into the blue VGA port on back.  You'll have to use a vga-DVI adapter if your monitor cable is DVI standard.. If that works then it would seem the video card is bunk..(assuming the psu is in working order)HEY this is an easy fix, u said it didnt work out of the box? well i would send the dam thing back, or get on the phone with them, im sure they have some kind of warranty.As suggested above, when you receive a new computer you should always open it and make sure all cards are properly SEATED.

i have an emachines not to old and the display will not work iv been useing ONBOARD graphics my friend gave me a new power suply i installed it and still nothing iv tryed the disconect reconect need help


eMachines - T5274 - 2 GB RAM - 2 GHz - 320 GB HDD      Could you please elaborate on why you found it necessary to change the power supply? As well please tell us what you mean by " d still nothing iv tryed the disconect reconect need help"
truenorthU have to refresh the BIOS.  and also remove dust from Ram slot..I am having this same problem with emachine of similar age. (2-3 years) All fans are coming on but monitor reads "no signal"  When I unplugged cord it reads "cord unplugged" so I am pretty sure its not the monitor.     Went to BB aka geek squad  -  they advsd could be either on BOARD graphics no longer working or power supply.  Installed both - no LUCK.   Now what?  Any suggestions?  007,Welcome to the CH forums. I must inform you that it is not concidered good FORM to piggy BACK on another's post. Please start a new post on your own topic.truenorth Quote from: tayyab on August 07, 2010, 01:02:19 AM

U have to refresh the BIOS.  and also remove dust from Ram slot..

If it has to be a usb port problem too bad it COULD not have been at the computer end --as there are usually numerous ones and they are also EXPANDABLE. Whereas likely there is only one on the PRINTER. Are there any other connection options at the printer end? truenorth

hi all, the title states what my problem is, when i switch my pc on the monitor goes straight into power SAVE mode, no chance of doing anything, tried the cable and monitor with another pc, WORKED fine, i have 2 disk drives, tried booting from a windows disk but whichever cd drive has the data cable plugged in doesn't work. Fast reples will be hugely appreciated Please post computer(CPU) specs that your having trouble with. How old is your CPU? Does it have any history of unwanted performance such as virus or malware infection, thermal/heat condition(s). Have you access BIOS setup utility on power management setup and hardware monitor setup?its quite an old computer but never given me troube before, i can't post  exact specs as i cannot get on my computer. All i can remember is that the processor is an AMD Sempron 1.8ghz, 1.5gb RAM, geforce 5500 graphics and the motherboard is MADE by gigabyte, is all i know,i can't get to any settings on my pc as i get no picture from the computerfirst thing i would try is to change out vid card and seeCan you be more specific when you say "it goes to power saving mode"? Quote from: EN32 on July 31, 2010, 10:25:48 AM

hi all, the title states what my problem is, when i switch my pc on the monitor goes straight into power save mode, no chance of doing anything, tried the cable and monitor with another pc, worked fine, i have 2 disk drives, tried booting from a windows disk but whichever cd drive has the data cable plugged in doesn't work. Fast reples will be hugely appreciated

Can you be more specific when you say "it goes to power saving mode"?

I Have PENTIUM 4 it RUNS very GOOD but sometime it GOES restartAre you a BOT?

I have a computer and I want to upgrade the CPU. The motherboard inside the computer supports AM2/AM2+ CPUs. I was recently building a computer with a socket AM3 Athlon II for a friend. Before we INSTALLED the CPU in the new computer, we first tested it in the AM2 board to see if it would be any faster. I ran a CPU benchmark and it was slower. The older CPU was an Athlon 64 X2 5600+ 2.9GHz and the new one was an Athlon II X2 3.0GHz, so I was expecting it to be faster.

Here are my questions:

1. If the CPU is not on the motherboard's support list, but works in the board anyway would there be any reason for it to function slower? Is there some sort of default CPU driver that gets loaded when the CPU is not recognized causing it to run slower? I figured it would work or not at all.

2. How much does an AM2+ socket board limit the performance of an AM3 CPU? Is it better to get an AM3 CPU or the fastest AM2?

3. Do you have to reinstall windows in order for it to recognize the CPU and run it faster?You're lucky you didn't fry that CPU...1) There's no reason the chip should run slower, unless the benchmark is dependent on other things - perhaps it's running the RAM at a slower speed than the older chip, for example.
2) It doesn't REALLY limit the performance, no, just adds/changes certain features.  As for the second question, that depends on many things - budget, other hardware components, what's available, etc.
3. No.

I recently ordered a new computer from pcspecialist and it doesn't work out of the box which is something I was afraid would happen.

It seems to boot fine everything turns on but the monitor will not turn on. ive tried two different monitors.

I tried to ANALYSE the beep code, it beeps twice in total with about a 5 second gap between beeps.  Based on the beep codes for my mobo (asus p7h55-m evo) which I found at http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/amibeep.htm   I THOUGHT the problem could be with the ram.  As this is the easiest thing to change, I didnt mind RESEATING it, im not to confident mucking about with any other hardware as I have no expierence.

Alas this didn't SOLVE the problem and whats worse is now the computer will not beep at all on start up.  If anyone could explain the significance of this to me, or give me any advice it would be greatly appreciated.

Ill post some specs for my computer if that will help

CPU: i5 750
MOBO: asus p7h55-m evo
RAM: 4gb crosair XMS3 DUAL DDR3 1600mhz
graphics CARD: GTX 465
600w PSU

I know that it is frustrating to get a new PC which does not work straight away, and I have had been there myself. It is so tempting to think that it just needs a little tweak or setting change. It is crucial to keep firmly in mind that you have a warranty and you must not do anything that would void that. I hope there was not a seal on the case which you have broken. You have taken delivery of a computer which does not work. You absolutely must contact the seller and request their advice. Personally I would not be inclined to mention that I had opened the case or reseated the RAM.

Old CPU: INTEL Celeron D352

New CPU: Intel Pentium E6600

When I turn on the computer both FANS start turning and the lights on the computer and CD drive flash, but there is no beep telling me that its passed or failed the POST, also the screen displays nothing.

I know its not the other COMPONENTS as I've tried it with the old processor and it works fine.

Can anyone help?Thermal paste applied properly ? ?
Does the MBoard SUPPORT that CPU ? ?
Did you add additional RAM in this process ? ?I didn't apply any thermal paste, it think there was already some on the heat sink.
I don't know if the mother board will support it, I have this one

http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Product/Product_Detail.aspx?CategoryID=1&DetailID=476&DetailName=Feature&MenuID=1&LanID=0

I didn't remove or add any RAM sticks.Didn't read it all but i don't think it supports that CPU...
You can't make a silk purse out of a Sow's ear...WOULD this motherboard support the new processor?

http://www.microdirect.co.uk/home/product/42182/Asrock-motherboard-G41M-GS-LGA-775-Intel-DDR2?source=googleps Quote from: hljod on July 24, 2010, 03:49:13 PM

Would this motherboard support the new processor?

http://www.microdirect.co.uk/home/product/42182/Asrock-motherboard-G41M-GS-LGA-775-Intel-DDR2?source=googleps

Well if you havnt applied thermal paste, and left it run, you could have burnt it out already, that paste is needed to draw heat from CPU to the fans.

I need someones honest opinion mostly. For the most part everything is running fine but there was a bad judgement on me part when I bought my new graphics card.

I have a 2 year old HP Pavilion a6130n, AMD Anthlon 64 x2 dual processor 5000+ 2.60mhz, and 3G RAM. I was in the market for a new graphics card and I came across the Galaxy GeForce 250 GT. I reading some of the recommendations and it listed the POWER supply as 400w minimum. I wasn't not sure what my PC's power supply was and being impatient as I was I bought it anyways. The card also came with a few extra cables which I was unfamiliar with from previous PCI Express cards but after awhile I managed to figure out where they connected on the power supply. At first I wasn't getting anything to show up when I just installed the card, but after I hooked up the extra wires it was able to come up.

Well I finally looked up my PC's power supply it is only 250w. So this is why I need some expert opinions on the matter.

The PC has been starting up alright and everything but it seems to me 250w from 400w minimum I would need a different card? I was trying to search on the subject and there seemed to be a lot of myths circling around I just don't know why to trust. Another thing I noticed as well was that my processor speed is lower now after installing the card. Do they share the speed? I went from 2.60 mhz to around 1.00 mhz and this is what is concerning me. Should I take the card back to the store and get one that is compatible with my PC or is this fine? PC works and runs great besides those issues.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. If you decide to keep the new graphics card you will have to CHANGE other hardware components of your computer.Certainly the PSU (and remember it stated "minimum"). That may not be the end of your issues either> Forinstance depending what it is you USE the new card for you may need to upgrade your RAM. I guess really only you can answer the question you posed. It becomes a matter of how much more you want to spend--how much more you want to upgrade that computer--how important that increased performance that you hope to gain from the graphics upgrade means to you? If the option exists to return the card and you can live with what you have or something that might give you a BIT more performance but won't require all the upgrades that one will then i believe that is your best option.truenorthI really don't want to buy more parts for the computer. I mean I rather just buy another computer with upgrades but I cannot at the moment. I was really just suppose to get a graphics card that was slightly a bit better than my previous one and I may have went too far better if I need these extra power.

I can live with the performances that my computer and graphics card can put out. I am just concerned if I shouldn't be using a 400w minimum card with a 250w computer, will it damage it in the long run.. is it absorbing more power than it really should.  When I did a "can you run it" check on a website for a random game say Starcraft 2, with my previous card my system was fine it was just the card that didn't check with minimum requirements. In fact rest of the system was on par with maximum. However after installing the new card I checked again, my processor speed was the thing that suffered in the check and I don't understand why, is it because the card is soaking up that speed?

Thank you for the info though, I don't really want to upgrade the other parts. But everything else is running fine but I would not wave to damage my PC in the long run with this set up if it is honestly not good for the PC/Power Supply/GPU. So that is why I am asking for honest opinions about it. If so I will just simply take it back and find something my PC can handle.

If it is only a matter of, I won't be getting the fullest potential out of the graphics card because my computer doesn't meet the other requirements, then that is fine. I can live with that as I look to upgrade to a new PC later.

Thanks again.

I need to open up the case of a Seagate 1tb external hard drive to ACCESS the drives that were damaged when SOMEONE plugged in the wrong power supply.  The person has a new one but really needs the data off this one, does anyone know how to open up the case?
Can't GIVE you info on opening the case but  This   us the BEST method to retrieve your data...These Seagates are not designed to be user-opened. The case is glued and you will need to DESTROY it. Anyhow, if the electronics are damaged by incorrect voltage or polarity you will probably find a dead drive in there.

Salman trout is right, but i'd just smack it with a hammer.

Hello,

I have a particular SD card that, whenever I try to insert it into my computer's SD slot, not only slows down the computer drastically, but also makes the following message POP up: " F:\ is not accessible. The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error."

This only occurs with that particular SD card. My other SD card works fine. The SD card that doesn't work is a brand-new PNY Optima SD HC. My computer is a HP Pavilion a818n.

Any suggestions?  The root of the problem may be this:
SD cards are up to 2GB only. To read and write above that capacity, the standards were updated, SDHC was born, & CERTAIN h/w revisions have to be in place, such that older equipment (that includes, but is not limited to digital cameras, video camcorders, & card readers) that specifically only catered for SD WILL NOT read or write to SDHC cards. NO firmware or s/w patch can undo or repair this one little inconvenience because the changes are in the h/w (electronics), MEANING they are physical and can't be undone or revised by ANY s/w you can introduce. A similar case would be that of legacy USB and USB2.0. Of course newer equipment will necessarily read and write to both SD and SDHC.
Plugging an SDHC card to SD only-equipment might even damage one or both.
to coody, this means therefore that you should stop forcing your camera to deal with SDHC cards because it wasn't designed for that. Use only SD cards with it (which means 2GB maximum). Memory cards are not formatted in the same sense as hard disk drives are; even so, there are little programs in the WWW that you can use to force cards to have, for example, a FAT32 file system. But even if you do this to an SDHC card with an appropriate card reader on your PC (certainly not the reader you have now which is SD-only), your SD card-only camera will still not recognize it.
SDHC cards are now available up to sizes of 32GB, and they NEED equipment duly marked "SDHC" to use them.

To give credit where it is due this is being quoted from an article appearing at this site;
http://www.videohelp.com/forum/archive/compatible-problem-sd-vs-sdhc-card-t360520.html
truenorth

Hello everyone!
My brother has a HP Pavilion (b2030br to be exact). It was working just fine and one fine day the monitor went off and wouldn't turn back on.
I have tried using other monitors to it but no luck! It is as if the monitors weren't even plugged in to the computer! Could there be a problem with the display driver or the video card? If there is, is it possible for me to fix it?
Thank you very much and sorry if this is a stupid or repeated questionif u tried different monitors and still no GOOD, then yes u should change the video card, just check the motherboard specs, to make sure u GET the right kind,  or if it is  onboard video, then get vid card to try, and if still no good, then probably bad motherboard.I fixed a computer the other day with this problem

LOW chance its your mobo.
First change your video card, thats 99% the cause.
If not stick a torch in your computer and look for some blown capacitors, these can trigger strange happenings, if not, then i doubt its your driver. But try reseting your BIOS settings, remove the CMOS battery, and move your jumper to reset it. If you dont have a jumper, SHORT circuit the battery connections Quote from: Thomas_Horscroft on July 31, 2010, 04:11:06 PM

I fixed a computer the other day with this problem

LOW chance its your mobo.
First change your video card, thats 99% the cause.
If not stick a torch in your computer and look for some blown capacitors, these can trigger strange happenings, if not, then i doubt its your driver. But try reseting your BIOS settings, remove the CMOS battery, and move your jumper to reset it. If you dont have a jumper, short circuit the battery connections

HD is over 10 years old...

using another ata/sata cable

Probably the HD, but you should try another device (HD or CD-ROM) in the motherboard IDE connector to make sure the motherboard controller hasn't failed.  If more than 1 device on IDE cable, the failure of 1 will cause the error you see.

The other devices work. Here is what I have found. I disconnected each HD individually and it still doesn't find the other HD. AS a matter of fact, when I go into the BIOS and the setup menu, it shows you the order in which it will boot. And it tell you the name/make of each device. But under IDE HD is says none, as if there aren't there...

The other devices work. Here is what I have found. I disconnected each HD individually and it still doesn't find the other HD. AS a matter of fact, when I go into the BIOS and the setup menu, it shows you the order in which it will boot. And it tell you the name/make of each device. But under IDE HD is says none, as if there aren't there...One of the HDs is only 2 years old.

 Any other suggestions...?

When you disconnected each hard drive (as described), did you place the remaining hard drive on the end of the connecting cable?

I do not know what to do though. I got about 6 fans inside my COMPUTER as we speak right now so I feel it is SAFE to over clock but I do not know how to tune my computer to do so. I just want to do my video card so I can play wow and lol on much better graphics and speeds.As many people here will tell you (and I tend to agree), there is no real safe way to overclock.

The, quote, "safest", way to overclock is to dish out the money to have a store that offers overclocking services, such as Micro Center, overclock the computer for you.

However, in some cases it is probably more economically sound to  purchase better hardware because overclocking WILL reduce the lifespan of your hardware.

I realize this probably isn't what you wanted to hear, but it's the best I have for you as I do not personally overclock.To do the ultimate overclock, go find an old fridge that STILL works.
Put you system inside the fridge. Keep the temperature at about 33  F  and then try try overclocking.
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/105345-info-fridge-pc-cooler.html Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 21, 2010, 01:41:23 PM

To do the ultimate overclock, go find an old fridge that still works.
Put you system inside the fridge. Keep the temperature at about 33  F  and then try try overclocking.
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/105345-info-fridge-pc-cooler.html

Must...resist...temptation...to put old computer parts in the fridge.
It may not work, but it sounds like fun. 

Every time we TURN on our desktop computer it says to start windows normally or launch repair thingy. Well, RIGHT after we start  it normally it SHUTS off and the same thing with the launch repair. We got it started once and it was on for a few hours then it SHUT down again. We don't know what to do, there blaming me!! I race online on NASCAR racing 2003 and when I downloaded it we still had over 300gb of MEMORY. We did get a virus but I got it removed. Can someone please help us!! (I'm typing on a laptop for this). We do got a 3 year warranty on it and we have had it for a year and a half.

Thanks,
Eric


EDIT: It didn't save from when it shut down, my mom deleted all me online racing stuff and there all back.This is often a sign of overheating.
Let it cool off.
Put a fan behind it.