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ok so I TOOK out a stick of DDR ram to see what type it was, but then after I put it back in and powered back on all I GET is the power light on and a beeping noise. Please help.it sounds like to me that the ram isn't pushed in all the way I would CHECK to make sure it's pushed as far as it will goTry to install it once again. Quote from: brett74 on June 04, 2008, 08:52:04 PM

it sounds like to me that the ram isn't pushed in all the way I would check to make sure it's pushed as far as it will go

I'm using a TV sas a second monitor. I can DRAG IMAGES from the NOTEBOOK to the TV monitor if they are Windows based, but can't move cd's ETC. to the TV monitor ( photos. movies etc.) What's wrongFull SYSTEM specs...

I have two monitors that both use DVI or VGA. I would PREFER to be using DVI on both of them. I am building my first computer and I was wondering if there is either a tv tuner that would ACCEPT coax cable in and then DVI out to two monitors, or if there is a video card that has 2 DVI outs and an input of coax cable for tv. I don't have a tv in my room and would prefer to watch it on a HD monitor rather than buying a new tv. This would also save me an extra PCI slot. I am not a gamer, so the graphics card part of it doesn't have to be amazing with a physics processor or anything since the most I'll need it to do is play the digital/analog signal for tv and maybe a flash game or two when I get bored. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.If you just don't know if it exists please tell me that. I have looked and am unable to find anything like that.Sure, there are many video cards with Dual-DVI output connectors.

Discern WHETHER your motherboard supports PCI-Express of AGP and buy the cheapest card from this list:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010380048+1069109631&Configurator=&Subcategory=48&description=&Ntk=&srchInDesc=chris.mccorkhill,I do not have any vested intertest in the company i am about to suggest.However i have used many of their products and for the most part have been satisfied with the product and the tech support.Please examine their product line to see if they do have something that will achieve your goal.If you do not see it represented i would call them (i am sure they have a toll free #) and describe your objectives and see what they advise. good luck and welcome to CH forums. truenorth http://www.hauppauge.com/track- that is not at all what i was asking. i know they make video cards with dual dvi. i want one that also has a tv tuner in it.

truenorth- thank you for your advise. last night i actually sent a message to them asking if they support dual monitors but they do not. if i were to use one of their products, it will only work with one monitor. if you know any other companies that might have something, please let me know and i'll check it out.Here's a device that converts cable to vga. Is that more along the lines of what you want?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815100002
chris.mccorkhill, As to further manufacturers that may offer a product to suit your needs i regret to say i can not (from personal experience) suggest any others. However were i in your shoes i would link to the following URL and have a look at what is offered and if there is nothing there i would take a few of the leaders in the field IE: "NVidia" and try to call them--always better in my opinion than e-mail--because the opportunity for clarification is greater and the instances of misunderstanding should be lessened. http://www.geeks.com/products.asp?cat=VCD It may be that what you seek is not available but WITHOUT more searching i wouldn't give up yet.Don't be shy to ask them --even if they don't make it --if they can suggest some other manufacturer that might. good luck ,truenorthjust out of curiosity, why are you trying to keep a pci slot free? What are your plans for it? Don't keep it free just to have a spare, you'll never use it. How many pci slots are actually available?truenorth- thank you and i will call try to call NVidia tomorrow between my summer classes that i'm taking to see if they offer something that would help me.

p.s. SPAMMERS are retarded and i reported "her" tooFYI: Spammer has been banned. SPAM post and posts relating to spam also removed to clean up this post. Quote from: chris.mccorkhill on June 03, 2008, 09:45:10 AM

If you just don't know if it exists please tell me that. I have looked and am unable to find anything like that.

I have an Intel MOTHERBOARD that died. SPEC sheet on it says that the RAID controller was SATA 150. I replaced the motherboard with an upgrade that also has SATA RAID. The cables are the mini type and the old motherboard had the regular IDE cables. I bought a PCI RAID controller and installed it. I can see the hard drives but not their volume. When I look at the properties of the drive/s it says they are SCSI devices!? What the heck am I missing here?? Can someone please enlighten me?? Old motherboard was Intel D845PEBT2 and the new one is a FoxConn 661FX7MJ-RS.Install the FoxConn SATA drivers and re-boot.
It's not uncommon for SATA drives to be identified as SCSI....lazy program writers.Thanks for the reply! One other QUICK question, what about the connection differences? The hard drives have the standard IDE connections and the new motherboard has the mini SATA connectors. Is there a way to convert the cables to fit the drives?What you'll need to convert IDE to SATA connection:  http://www.addonics.com/products/io/ide_sata.aspThanks for the info, however, I was just doing some RESEARCH and discovered something. It appears the options I had on my old Intel motherboard included the IDE RAID controller and not the SATA. That EXPLAINS why the hard drives were using the ATA cables!  So, I do have an IDE RAID PCI controller and I should be able to configure that and make these drives work, correct?

For the last 6 months or so, I have had my old Latitude 510/610 hooked up to my Olevia 332, 32 inch TV.  It has a resolution of 1366x768,16:9 wide screen, so I have had it on 1280x768 this whole time.  I started getting problems with the computer, so i decided to go out to the internet and see if i could update any drivers.  After installing a ""NEW" video driver (ATI Radeon Mobility,v.7.991-040224m-014403C-Dell, A08) I restarted, and 1280x768 is now longer a display option.  Through my TV, I am now limited to 800x600 or 1024x68... no wide screen...  I have been trying to fix it all day, and cant seem to fix it... any help would be greatly appreciated...have you tried a system restore to get your resolution back?

You may then try to take a different path in fixing your problem.

if you cant system restore try installing the previous driver you had.

could you post up what your "computer problems" were exactly?

the more info the better*

We may know another solution for it other than updating your driver and losing you resolution optionsEvery time I tried to drag files off a dvd (which i had been doing for months before i GOT a new laptop) it would get a "cyclic redundancy check".  It could be caused by the computer I burned the dvd with, but it has the latest drivers and all so I am not sure.  It has also had problems with a new device.  I plug my MP3 (archos 605 wifi )player into the usb, and explorer crashes.  I haven't tried a system restore yet, I should go ahead and try that now.I did a bit of reading and found this.

Give it a go.

Does your dvd work in other machines?

and is it one or many dvd's?

Quote from: http://www.softwarepatch.com/tips/cyclic-redundancy.html

The problem can be hardware (loose cables, failing drive), software or damaged media. In most cases checking and cleaning the disc is the easiest way to overcome the problem. If different clean discs produce the same error, it is likely to be a hardware issue (check the discs in another drive). Another common CAUSE of these errors is poorly burnt CDs and DVDs - especially those that had numerous or severe buffer underuns. USB burners suffer from this problem when the burn speed is too high (generally above 4X-8X)

If the discs are damaged, you'll probably need a RECOVERY tool to get back your data. CDCheck 3 will work for CDs and DVDs. First it will check the media, and then you have the option to recover the files. It's free for personal use and has saved many people heartache when it comes to recovering LOST digital images and videos from damaged CDs.

I work from home using VPN into work... I...

1) have a 21" NEC tube monitor at work on my "work" PC (set to 1280 x 1024)
2) I had a duplicate 21" NEC tube monitor at home on my "home" PC (also set to 1280 x 1024)
3) I used RADMIN to bing up my work PC on my Home pc... since the screens were exactly the same resolution, all was good.
4) my home pc's NEC 21" died.
5) I BOUGHT a Samsung 22" wide LCD.  Native resolution = 1680 x 1050
6) as we all know, LCD monitors only look pristine at their native resolution.
7) so I tried to set my work PC to 1680 x 1050 - no joy - because my work NEC won't do that.

Even tho my work PC has a card that's good enough to do this, it WON'T do it because it still sees the old NEC 21" monitor... not an LCD monitor.

So, how can I fool the work PC to format at 1680 x 1050 so I can RADMIN from home and not go blind with the little white ghosts that result from resolution mismatch. I don't even want to turn the work PC's monitor on.

I'm sure that if I had ANOTHER 22" LCD to take to work, it would do it just fine. But, I don't want to buy another one to replace a perfectly good NEC at work. In fact, I don't even NEED a monitor at work... but the PC won't output unless it "sees" one hooked up.  Does anybody know if there's a relatively inexpensive piece of Hwd that will fool the PC at work into OUTPUTTING 1680 x 1050? Or some other way to fool it?

THANKS for slugging thru this mess...

Steve Henderson

ok i have three hdd in one computer two are on a ide controller card the 20 gig and the 9 gig      the 250 gig is directally PLUGGED into the motherboard.

when i boot windows xp pro sometimes the 250 is recognized and sometimes not same with the 20 gig.   sooo i don't know whats happening.   i think it might be the power supply.... but i don't know. it's a 400 watt antec. that the best i can describe it for now and IDEAS would be great or somehow to trouble shoot.. btw i don't have a bigger PS. so i can't test that.btw after windows scrolls the blue BAR across the screen there is an abnormally long PAUSE until windows ACTUALLY shows somthing on the screen. i think this might be from the older hard drive i am using but i'm not sure.

My pc has a electrical smell comming from it when turned on for a short time.  The fan is RUNNING and I have pulled the cpu out of it's encloser with the same result.  Resently, the computer has shut itself off, is this related?  The HP pavillon runs windows XP.  sounds like something is OVERHEATING or overheated clean out the case and also check for anything that might be burning inside. Quote

Resently, the computer has shut itself off, is this related?

my system time and DATE does not update.  I already REPLACED my back up battery but still it does not have the correct time after i turned off my PC and then i turned it back on.  please help...Are you talking about the system time in BIOS or the Regional Time settings of your operating system?both sir..If you've replaced the RTC/CMOS battery, boot into BIOS and set the time.  Exit saving changes.

After Windows boots...double-click the time icon in the system tray to change your regional time settings.  Save your settings...and reboot to see if the time is being displayed properly upon reboot.I have TRIED that too sir.  However, everytime I TURN off the PC and then PULL out the PC plug, the time and date does not update.  But if I turn off the PC and did not pull the plug, the time and date updates successfully.  PLease help... thanks.

O.K., I bought a NVidia GE-Force 8500 a few hours ago... But when I opened my PC the PCI Express Bus PORT was not installed (better usage - THe slot doesn't EXIST... I Have a spot to place one, but not one installed)... Is it possible to install the Graphics Card in another Bus Port (I have one other one, looks sort of like so:

----  ----------------------

However the graphics card is too long for this port and placed the other way around


             ----------------------  ----

(NOTE: The uninstalled bus port is placed further back and the graphics card looks like it would fit right over it if a Bus Port was there)

Or do I have to get the port installed? If the latter is required, Where do you suggest that I get the Bus Port installed?

Hope I provided enough information,
~Simi

P.S. If your going to suggest a store, please use a common one (such as Circuit City or Best Buy, etc.)You may have to get by with a Regular PCI Graphics Adapter, but standard PCI will not work well with todays games. Your system is LACKING a 16X PCI-E slot which is required for the video card/ graphics adapter and you cant just add PCI-E slots. Easiest way to upgrade and get PCI-E would be to replace the motherboard with one that does have PCI-E 16x.

Sorry for the bad news!Well... How much would that cost to replace the MBoard?it depends on what you would like to do with it.Also what cpu do you have? That will also determine what mobos to buy cause you have the intel and amd cpuWell i would like it to fit the NVidia 8500 card, the processor is an Intel Celeron... Not sure the exact type...

(if i wasn't that helpful, don't be ANGRY; I'm a newb at computer hardware )

Hey everyone! Im looking to build myself a gaming PC, but have never done so before, so I was hoping you all could REVIEW my choices and tell me what you think. I'm basically looking for the best bang for my buck, I don't have a ton of money to spend on this. Sorry if this is in the wrong section, wasn't sure where to put it.

Alright, so heres what I got so far. I am still missing a Disk Drive and a Case though, not really sure what to look for in those fields, if you guys could help me out there. And I'm at about 700 bucks so far, would like to spend no more than 60 bucks if possible. Also, so far compatible? Seem appropriately priced? Know of any SITE where it might be sold cheaper? Also, I was hoping on GETTING the Intel Core Duo E8400, but I wasn't able to find one with a price lower than 195, which is around 60 bucks more than the E7200, would the price difference be worth it? Oh, and am I missing anything else (essentials) besides the case and drive?

169.99 -Graphics Card: ZOTAC nVidia geForce 8800GT 512mb PCI Express Video card
http://3btech.net/zonvge8851pc.html

131.99 -Processor: Intel Core Duo E7200 Wolfdale 2.53GHz 3MB L2 Cahce LGA 775 gdW Dualcore Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115052

89.99 -Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-EP35-DS3L LGA Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...YTE-_-13128337

109.99 -Operating System: Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SPI 64-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16832116204

29.99 -Power Supply: Antec earthwatts EA430 430W ATX12V v2.0 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371006

89.99 -Hard Drive: SAMSUNG SpinPoint T Series HD501LJ 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0gb/s
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822152052

84.99 -RAM: 4gb (2x2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231122welcome to the forums. here are a few things to consider...

1. all your newegg links are dead links. please redo them.

2. do you really need a 64bit OS? there are numerous compatibility issues with 64bit OS's.

3. i recommend at least a 500w power supply. 500w is about the minimum for gaming computers.

4. you said your missing the harddrive, but i see you listed a 500gb samsung HD...?

5. for a budget case, i recommend a case by XION (click here). they make affordable cases and they look cool too. they also come with a power supply that you can take out and use as a backup incase your antec PSU fails.homer, he said he's missing a disk drive.  I guess what he means is an optical drive as one isn't listed.

My three year KNOCKED my laptop off the arm of the COUCH and it landed on tile, now it will not BOOT up. It turns on for a few seconds goes through the process of booting up, but then it turns off. Hello!

Welcome to CH! 

Multiple posts....

PLEASE read thisand this

Thanks!

I have ASUS mobo - P5GC-MX/1333. The problem is that my USB root hub (containing front 2 USB ports) is not working, although the hub wire is connected properly to the mobo.

I also receive a warning which says - A USB device has malfunctioned and exceeded the power limits of its hub PORT. You should disconnect the device.

and the Recommendation which shows up is - To re-enable the port, disconnect the hardware and click reset. If u click close ,the port will no longer function.

Please help me what to do.

HERE IS THE SCREENSHOT :::

[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]hi welcome to ch. What do you have plugged into it that's causing it to draw too much power
nothing plugged into it. nd also i inserted my pendrive nd it didn't detect it.something is causing it to do that it could be a short SOMEWHERE I would check the wire leading from the mobo to the ports.have you tried clicking the "reset" button?

What happened?I've had ASUS MB's in the past that seemed to have 'weak drive' to the front USB ports.  Solution is to use your rear USB ports, or maybe buy a USB expander to plug into a front port - that has worked for me.
As i told u earlier that my usb hub doesn't detect my pen drive, so will it detect the USB expander ??
And btw what is USB expander ? Quote from: jerryheavyarms on June 06, 2008, 11:15:57 AM

have you tried clicking the "reset" button?

What happened?

I have ASUS mobo - P5GC-MX/1333. The problem is that my USB root hub (containing front 2 USB ports) is not working, although the hub wire is connected properly to the mobo.

I also receive a warning which says - A USB device has malfunctioned and exceeded the power limits of its hub port. You should disconnect the device.

try to uninstall the port, and then restart your computer..

I was wondering if anybody knows how to find what motherboard your using.  I'm trying to figure out if I can use a quad core amd processor without having to upgrade motherboards.  I ran a belarc advisor scan thing and it says my board is:NF-MCP61.  I tried a google search and a tigerdirect search but couldnt really find anything on it.  was wondering if anybody could tell me a different way to find out what motherboard I'm using or if it'll be able to use the socket am2+.  I'm using a dual core one right now so it's only socket am2.
I OPENED my computer and all I SAW was geforce 6100sm-mv and it's an egs motherboard.download and run SIW from www.gtopala.com. It will tell you just about everything you need to know about your system, Also, what CPU are you using now?Right now I'm using an amd athlon 64 x2 5200+.  My old one was an amd athlon x2 6000+ but it got taken out by a power supply.
EDIT: I tried to run the diagnostic thing but vista isn't letting me.  I tried turning off my firewall and I have administrator rights but it's not working.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_AM2ok so it will work but use the hypertransport 2.0 instead of 3.0. Does this make a significant difference if I were to be using this cpu, I guess what I'm trying to ask is would it be worth it to buy a quadcore processor if I'm only using hypertransport2.0?  The processor I was looking into is the AMD Phenom Quad Core 9600 2.3 GHZ AM2+ BLACK Ed CPU

I have a emachine which Gateway makes. Model is a T5212 with Windows Xp on it. Well for a couple weeks I have been having problems with my COMPUTER. This last time, when I turned on the computer it would not load all the the way. It would boot up and the black screen with the white words would com up but would not pass this screen. It would say that the "boot file is could not be found or something like that. I tried going to the boot menu set up by pushing F2 and I tried just resetting the defaults but nothing would work. I kept trying to restart the computer to get pass this screen and nothing. So I just though about trying to insert the CD that CAME with my compter and it worked just fine but now my problem is that my files and pictures I had save in my computer are no longer there. Is there any way that I can get those files and pictures back. Please Help Someone!Most likely, the CD you used was some kind of Recovery CD, and it returned your computer to day 1 status.
In that case, all data is GONE for good. Quote from: solis5555 on June 10, 2008, 07:56:03 PM

So I just though about trying to insert the CD that came with my computer and it worked just fine

I was hoping there was still a way to get my pictures and file that I has saved back.

I thought that it was the nly thing that I could do since I woul not let me get pass the booting screen. I was not even able to back up anything.

I just found out that there is an AMD 64 Bit CPU.

Now this will PROCESS 64 Bits at a TIME internaly but will this fit the Motherboard of TODAY or is it like the Intel Itanium  ware it needs a specail Motherboard??

And all Motherboards today have a Data Width of 64 Bits WIDE Right or am I offAll newer (within the last 4 YEARS), mainstream processors and motherboards are 64 bit.

Hello,

My problem: I want to install a new videocard, the geforce 9800gx2 SSC (super super clocked).

Problem one: What powersupply should I buy to deliver the power? I'm thinking of buying this one, a silverstone SST-ST1000 (http://www.technical-assistance.co.uk/store.php?i=B000W2YL8I&c=uk).
The power supply will only draw as much power as is required, and a highly loaded power supply will generate more heat than one that is proportionately lesser loaded, even if it is supplying the same amount of power. So if both a 850W and a 1000W PSU are both supplying 750W, then the 1000W one should run cooler. (is this true?)

Problem two: The geforce 9800GX2 needs PCI-express 2.0. I now have a geforce 9500GT, this card also requiers pci-e 2.0. I think my motherboard has pci-e 1.1, so it will run on it. (is this true???)

Problem tree: The cooling... if you check my pc pictures, you'll see that I have no external FANS installed. The GPU will generate alot of heat, + the geforce 9800gx2 SSC also produces alot of heat because it's overclocked as *censored*. Where can I install a fan, and which one/type should I buy? I'm thinking of placing one fan on the back of my pc, at the bottom their is a place that supports a fan of 80mm I think.

These are some pictures of my pc (inside and outside):
http://s283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/Sertn/?action=view&current=pc15.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/Sertn/pc.jpg?t=1213120665
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/Sertn/pc14.jpg?t=1213120234
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/Sertn/pc19.jpg?t=1213120373

These are my systemspecs:
AMD Phenom™ X4 9500 quad-core processor
3 GB DDR2 Dual Channel RAM
500 GB S-ATA harddrive, 8 MB Cache, speed:7200 tpm
NVIDIA® GeForce® 9500 GT / 256 MB DDR3 SDRAM
MSI MS-7501 motherboard

Hope you can give me some insight in the world of modding. I'm a very huge newbie, so please help me, give me information about all those parts etc. Try to explain it as simple as you can 

Thankx in advance
Problem one: you do not need to worry about heat generated by the power supply. i would base my decision, of what power supply to GET, on my power demand. if you plan on getting a second 9800gx2 i would purchase the 1000w.

Problem two: your graphics card will run on a PCI-E 1.0. according to benchtests the difference between the two (1.0 vs 2.0) is negligible, at least for now.

Problem three: i reviewed your pictures, and quite frankly i suggest a new case. your case has horrible ventilation. it is not, in the least bit, streamlined for adequate ventilation. most gaming cases today have at least one intake fan mounted low on the FRONT of the case and one exhaust fan mounted high up in the back. some cases also have side or ceiling case fans. pic_1 is a picture of a comp streamlined for ventilation. cold air enters low and hot air exits high up because hot air rises. if you cannot AFFORD a new case, then i suggest cutting a hole into the side panel of your comp for a 120mm fan right where your graphics card will sit. pic_2 is what i did to my comp to cool my graphics card. you can see its only an 80mm fan, but my case has fairly good ventilation as it is. an added note, that 80mm fan dropped my temps by about 5-10C.

i also wish to ask, why are you purchasing a factory overclocked card? they cost more then the stock card and its easy enough to overclock it yourself.

[Saving space - attachment deleted by admin]Yeah get fans or you risk overheating. New case is advisable.

I recently tried to BOOT my computer, but instead the monitor showed a check signal sign with the three colors.  After reading I figured out it was the monitor's self test. 
I've switched systems and my monitor works fine, so I figure it's not the monitor or cable.  I reinserted the video card and it didn't work.  I bought another video card (an upgrade for me anyway) and it still doesn't work. 
Is it the motherboard? Powersupply?
I don't know if this helps but when I boot the computer all the fans start to run.

I've had this computer for two years now.
CPU : AMD 64 x2 4200 Manchester 2.2ghz
MotherBoard : ASUS A8N-E Socket 939
Old Vid Card: EVGA 256-P2 N564-AX GeForce 7900GT 256Mb PCI Express x16
NEW Vid Card: NVIDIA GeForce 8400 GS 512MB PCI Express x16
Monitor : Samsung SyncMaster 204b

Note: When I push the adjust button on the monitor it switches back from analog to digital a bunch of times then the screen turns black.Were you able to try the video cards in a different computer?  (I know that's not always easy to do.)  I shouldn't wonder if the PCI Express slot went out.  Not likely, but possible, I guess.

Having spouted all that, I must ask if you know if the most updated drivers for the video cards were installed?No luck with switching the video cards out, my other SYSTEM has a different slot type.
When I inserted the new vid card I didn't UPDATE the drivers, cuz I figured it would at least show up on the monitor.
Even THOUGH the drivers arn't updated, shouldn't i see something other than the self test on the monitor?Agreed.  You should get basic video function.  I was just looking for another way to test the cards themselves, while I stated the idea that the express slot on the system board is/went bad.  Being able to slot the cards into another computer would help. 

It occurs to me to ask if your computer has on-board video you might try as an option?Depending on the card you might get a VGA output or no output at all without drivers.
Didn't the card come with a driver CD ? ?

Don't rely on Windows to update drivers...especially video drivers.i think your vga slot got a problem.you should try your vga card to other pc if it works fine then its your board got a problem

62 degree Celsius

When you FORMMAT a Hard Drive and give it 2. Partitions the first Partition has win xp on it so that would be called the Primary Partition and the other Partition would be called the Secondary Partition right???

So what is a Logical Drive is that when you give a Hard Drive One Partition and the whole Drive is used is that a Logical Drive??AnyoneEach partition becomes a logical drive. In a typical system, the primary partition would be the one with the OS files on it, though most modern OSes can actually handle multiple primary partitions. The important thing is that your "main" partition (which must be primary) also has to be active in order to boot the computer.
Drive 0 in disk management utility is a "physical" drive. Drive c:\ is a logical drive, which can be a single partition, or span multiple partitions and even multiple physical disks, which brings you beyond partitioning, and into dynamic disks.
What did you meen when you told me that Disk 0. is the Pysical Drive and Drive C: is the Logical Drive??

The Hard Drive with win xp is Drive 0. the Physical Drive and Drive C: is still Drive 0.

If you have WIN XP on Drive 0.  and you only have one Partition then Drive C: is also the Physical Drive to right?

Logical Drives would only be Drives that you keep Partitioning RIGHT??

Please helpYou are correct.

"Logical" drives are ways of labeling partitions on physical drives. 

For example, I have two physical drives in my computer, but the larger drive is split into two partitions.  The operating system (XP) reports three logical drives.

c:  (on which the operating system resides.)
d:  (the second small hard drive.)
e:  (the second partition of the first physical drive.)

I will have to find information for you to explain the hierarchy of how the operating system assigns letters to drives and partitions.

The article below illustrates drive identification schemes under different operating systems, but the part I quoted is the basics of how DOS/Windows decides things.

http://www.answers.com/topic/c-6?cat=technology

Quote

Order of assignment

Except for CP/M and early versions of MS-DOS, each of these operating systems assigns drive letters according to the following algorithm:

   1. Assign the drive letter A: to the first floppy disk drive (drive 0), and B: to the second floppy disk drive (drive 1), if present.
   2. Assign a drive letter, beginning with C: to the first active primary partition recognised upon the first physical hard disk.
   3. Assign subsequent drive letters to the first primary partition upon each successive physical hard disk drive, if present within the system.
   4. Assign subsequent drive letters to every recognised logical partition, beginning with the first hard drive and proceeding through successive physical hard disk drives, if present within the system.
   5. Assign subsequent drive letters to any RAM Disk.
   6. Assign subsequent drive letters to any additional floppy or optical disc drives.

MS-DOS versions 3 and earlier assign letters to all of the floppy drives before considering hard drives, so a system with four floppy drives would call the first hard drive E:.

The order can depend on whether a given disk is managed by a boot-time driver or by a dynamically loaded driver. For example, if the second or third hard disk is of SCSI type and on MS-DOS requires drivers loaded through the CONFIG.SYS file (e.g. the controller card does not offer on-board BIOS or using this BIOS is not practical), then the first SCSI primary partition will appear after all the IDE partitions on MS-DOS. Therefore MS-DOS and, for example, OS/2 could have different drive letters, as OS/2 loads the SCSI driver earlier. A solution was not to use primary partitions on such hard disks.

In Windows NT, Windows 2000, Windows XP and OS/2, the operating system uses the aforementioned algorithm to automatically assign letters to floppy disk drives, optical disc drives, the boot disk, and other recognised volumes that are not otherwise created by an administrator within the operating system. Volumes that are created within the operating system are manually specified, and some of the automatic drive letters can be changed. Unrecognised volumes are not assigned letters, and are usually left untouched by the operating system.

A common problem that occurs with the drive letter assignment is that the letter assigned to a network drive can interfere with the letter of a LOCAL VOLUME (like a newly installed CD/DVD drive or a USB stick). For example, if the last local drive is drive D: and we have assigned to a network drive as E:, then when we connect a USB mass STORAGE device it will also be assigned drive E: causing loss of connectivity with either the network share or the USB device. To overcome this problem we have to manually assign drive letters or to install a third-party software such as USB Drive Letter Manager.

Another condition that can cause problems on Windows XP is when there are network drives defined but in an error condition (as they would be on a laptop operating outside the network). Even when the unconnected network drive is not the next available drive letter, Windows XP may be unable to map a drive and this error may also prevent the mounting of the USB device.

Common assignments

Applying the scheme discussed above on a fairly modern Windows based system typically results in the following drive letter assignments:

    * A: — Floppy disk drives, 3.5" or 5.25", and possibly other types of disk drives, if present, and supported by the BIOS.
    * B: — Unused, reserved for a second floppy drive.
    * C: — First hard disk partition.
    * D: to Z: — Other disk partitions get labeled here. Windows 9x assigns the next free drive letter to the next drive it encounters while enumerating the disk drives on the system (during installation). Drives can be partitioned, thereby creating more drive letters. This applies to MS-DOS, as well as ALL Windows operating systems. Windows offers other ways to change the drive letters, either through the Disk Manager (Windows NT, 2000, XP and later) or through the Device Manager found in the Control Panel. MS-DOS typically uses parameters on the line loading device drivers inside the config.sys file. Because Windows 9x is based on MS-DOS, those drive letters as established inside the config.sys file also apply to Windows 9x systems.
    * D: to Z: — CD-ROM, DVD, or shared network drives begin after the last used hard drive partition drive letter.
    * F: — First network drive if using Novell NetWare
    * Z: — First network drive if using Banyan VINES, and the initial drive letter assignment for the virtual disk network in the DOSBox x86 emulator.

The C: drive usually contains all of the Windows operating system files required for operation of the computer. On many modern personal computers, only one hard drive with one partition is present, so it is designated C:. On such a computer, all of a user's personal files are often stored in directories on this drive as well. These drives can, however, be different.

When there was no second physical floppy drive, the B: drive was used as a "virtual" floppy drive mapped onto the physical A: drive, whereby the user would be prompted to switch floppies every time a read or write was required to whichever was the LEAST recently used of A: or B:. This allowed for much of the functionality of two floppy drives on a computer that had only one.

Network drives are often assigned letters towards the end of the alphabet. This is often done to differentiate them from local drives: by using letters towards the end, it reduces the risk of an assignment conflict. This is especially true when the assignment is done automatically across a network (usually by a logon script).

It is not possible to have more than 26 drives. If access to more filesystems than this is required, volume mount points must be used.

My laptop is not receiving any incoming power. The only reason it's on now is the battery. There was nothing in the FAQ or search page RELATING to a laptop being able to function only on battery even while it's plugged into a functioning powerstrip. Or a functioning wall socket. I've tried both.

I've also checked for shorts in the cable. Nothing happened there, either. I'm wondering if there was maybe someway I'd managed to fry the plug that GOES into my laptop or the area around that on the actual computer, and if that might be the source of this problem.

I apologize for sounding completely INEPT. I am, and that's why I'm here.What type of laptop is it?

Acers are famous for the AC adapter plug that connects to the computer not FITTING properly...or even making a CONNECTION for that matter.

Are you sure the Ac adapter is properly connected?

When I turn off my computer from WINDOWS It shuts down normally, But the power supply stays on, I have to manually turn It off myself. Is It NORMAL for the power supply to stay on after a windows shutdown? And If not how can I fix this?What do you mean it stays on? Do you mean the FAN is still running? Lights are still on?
Power supplies do generally stay active a little bit so the system can power up on demand. But it doesn't use up as much power to be in this state.That was a good question, That I did not think about . YEA, Its just the light that stays on, So I guess THATS ok. Thanks for the reply.

Hello, I have owned a seagate external HD for a couple years now and every now and then (most of the time actually) when I have it plugged into my USB device on my Toshiba Laptop it starts making a beeping noise. I know(FOR A FACT) it is coming from the actual HD. What doesn't make sense is that after doing research, there is nothing in the hardware to actually make a beeping soud. It is a repetitive beep and actually beeps faster when ACCESSING the HD for information. I thought it was quite odd. It works fine though and have rarely had any problems (once or twice in its lifespan I have had to reboot to access HD). Now the real kicker is that I have gone now to a smaller Maxtor 250 GB external HD. I have transferred EVERYTHING to the new DRIVE. Everytime I connect the drive to my laptop it makes a similar beeping noise as the previous seagate HD. Sometimes the new HD when plugged does not pop up but makes a constant on off beep while trying to load on my computer but never does. When I reboot sometimes it works. Finally I plugged it in and unplugged it several times one day and have now lost all my data on the new drive and has become corrupted. Do you guys have any ideas on why this beeping is occuring and why I may have problems with each HD and possibly the reason for my data loo. Also if I could get any pointers on fixing the drive. Do i need to format it? Can I recover any of the data? I have not touched the HD since I lost the data. I was told by someone not to run scndsk. THANK you for your help and SORRY about writing a "novel"!have you tried connecting it to a different computer?

Just started TODAY i tried two different keyboards and they dont TYPE anything unless i hold the keys down for almost 2seconds each keyboards worked fine for the last three months and my TOWER is clicking with each keystroke please help HAHA, problem solved, apparently it was sticky keys, and I just held shift down too long, whew. It could've been so much worse! =)Sticky keys turns on when you press Shift five times. There is an option to disable it.

My computer crashed about 3 weeks ago and I had it fixed about a week ago. Originally,  I went through and looked at all the repairs that were necessary and everything seemed to be working fine. The only thing I had not tried to do was watch a video clip on media player. When I did eventually try it, I ran into problems. Whenever I try to watch anything on windows media player, the screen starts to blink on and off. The same occurred on Quicktime, Winamp, and Youtube. The screen continues to blink until I close the player program and each TIME the program stops responding so it takes much longer to shut down the program. I cannot figure out what is causing this because when I try to listen to music on any of these programs (except Youtube) I have no probems.
Each time the blinks on and off the Event Viewer states that either the wuauclt database engine has stopped, the wuaueng.dll database engine has stopped, or their is a hanging application.
I cannot figure out what to do to fix this and I cannot afford to send the process back to the computer tech.
If you paid someone to fix your computer then you should definitely take it back and TELL them that they didn't finish the job. Most computer techs will fix it for free (if they are at all concerned about their reputation)

If you really don't want to take it back to him try this: Click Start then Run and type in Devmgmt.msc and press enter. This will take you to Device Manager. If you see any YELLOW"?" or red"!" then you need a driver for that device. Go to your computer MANUFACTURERS website and see if they have driver downloads.

Also, it could just be something really simple like getting updates from MICROSOFT. Maybe downloading flash player might help:
http://www.adobe.com/shockwave/download/index.cgi?P1_Prod_Version=ShockwaveFlash

I’ve a problem with printers.

Printers: HP LaserJet 4+ and HP Inkjet 820cxi

The printers were originally connected to a Dell P4 1.6 MHz, 20 Gig HDD, 256 Mem, XP Sp2, when a printing problem occurred; the paper had jammed, after that it will not print, with either printer, someone tried reinstalling XP with no luck.

We Delete the drivers and the printer icons, rebooted, but the computer does not auto pick the printers.
 
So I reformatted the drive and bingo the auto detect came and installed the printers when they were connected, they use the 4 + the most, when they use the Inkjet, a few times or there’s a hiccup like paper jam, it won’t print again, nothing COMES from the printer port, it only happens when the Inkjet is connected.

It has jammed again and the same problem, I’ve reformatted, without success, this time there’s no signal coming from the printer port, it is dead (I’ve tried dos commands still nothing), I tried a USB - parallel adapter, at first it didn’t work properly, the first page had jumbled up characters the second page printed ok with the 4+ but not with the 820 it would not even recognise it.

So they got another CPU unit, We formatted the same drive and  it picked up the printers, again while using the 820 the paper jammed and where back to the same scenario nothing coming from the printer port.

What I did notice when I was trying to print a TEST page, the monitor was flicker then it stops after about 1 – 2 mins, it starts flickering every 3 – 5 mins for about 20 seconds then stop.

 I think the problem it’s the 820, is there anyway that the 820 can have a fault and it can damage the motherboard?

I reinstalled XP using the upgrade, it still will not auto pick the printers, (I didn’t turn of SYSTEM restore) you can manually INSTALL the drivers but it will not print.

I’ve changed the printer cable to the one I use, still nothing.

I am YET to reformat and reinstall, I’d like some explanation first.

I don’t now why or how it can damage the printer port.

Can it be damaged the mother board if the printer is switched on?  Nobody tells you the truth.

Please serious help and advice needed.

Regards


pohhopI'm just spit balling but since it only happens when the printer gets a paper jam, I am wondering if it could be surging the printer and putting a spike through the printer cable.

Question though.... if the printer is circa Windows 95 era and it keeps getting paper jams that cause this much trouble why not replace it? Most inkjet printers are built with an expected life of around 5 years. Problem will likely be solved and you'll be printing a crap load faster. When purchasing a new printer beware of the HP printers that use a #21 & #22 ink cartridges, they are deceptively cheap cartridges but they have a very minimal amount of ink.Thanks for the reply.

In Ghana they use everything until it is scrap. I have tried the printer on my machine and it owrked Ok, luckily it didn't jam.
it as to be something like you said. I wanted some ideas, my own was the printer fromthe start, but didn't reckon on it damaging the board.

Thanks again.
P

hey guys, 

Problem: well, after reformatting my LAPTOP. I downloaded vista with the cd given to me by the manufactor. Everything was fine till i logged on.... ....!!! my screen was all blurry, and my sound dont EVEN work...allso i LOST my recovery partition

OMG!! 

what am i supposed to do!!!

>.< i need to get this problem fixed otherwise my parents said the money is comin out of my pocket!! 

other stuff:

Laptop = Dell XPS M1330
erm, OS = Windows vista home premium
need anytin else? just ask =] thxIf you're missing the Recovery partition...then there's a good chance you inadvertently deleted that partition.

However...if you have the Recovery Software from the manufacturer...in this case, Dell...you should be able to RECOVER your laptop to its original specs...including the Recovery partition.

If you don't have their Recovery software...and only a Vista operating system DVD or CD...then you're out of luck...unless you can contact Dell and ask them to ship you the Recovery software.  Of course...there will be a charge for this...usually...under $30 (USD).

On the other hand...if all you have is the Vista operating system disk...and installed it...the reason your screen and sound are not right...is because you need the Vista drivers for your laptop.

You should be able to visit the Dell site...click the Support/Download Drivers link...ENTER your Service Tag...and locate the drivers you need for both sound and video.

If its under warranty...you may have phone support and Dell can direct you to the proper drivers you need for your laptop...good luck there, though.  Dell Support...not the best.

Anyway...that's pretty much it...in a nutshell...

If you still need help...we're her for ya!  Keep us posted...

Hi

Please can someone help me ?

What does HARD disk form factor means ?  To be more precise

    * 3.5" x 1/3H (118),
    * 3.5" x 1/4H (11),
    * 3.5" (,
    * 3.5" Slim Line (3)

I know what 3.5" means, since this is pretty much descripted everywhere on the NET.  But I haven't found anyone talking about the other bit which is 1/3H, 1/4H etc etc.

Does anyone know anywhere I can read up on this INFO ?

Does all of them fit into a 3.5" bay ?  If so what's the point quoting this extra info ?

Thanks
An.Those dimensions refer to the height of the drive. Quote from: choukyla on June 12, 2008, 09:54:38 AM

Does all of them fit into a 3.5" bay ?  If so what's the point quoting this extra info ?

I searched for an answer first to no avail. I am getting sporadic popping noises about as loud as a ladyfinger firecracker from the monitor area of my computer set-up. The unit is an emachine w/Windows XP and a 17" Proview flat screen all about 2 yrs old.
The popping noise comes maybe once or twice a day but not every day. It happens whether the SPEAKERS are on or off and likewise whether the system is on or off and at no set time. Has anyone experienced this problem? Any advice greatly appreciated.It happens with computer being off??Yes, definitely! ON or OFF. Quote

17" Proview flat screen all about 2 yrs old.

I have a HP StorageWorks Disk Array Enclosure and some of the bays are failing after about 15 minutes. General searches dont WORK to find out how to TEST the bays to find out if the backplan needs replaced or whats going on.

WOULD anyone have experienced this and/or help me find out how to get this working correctly.Whats the make and model?

From what you wrote it sounds like the backplane...but more INFO would be good. Do they fail with new drives installed? What happens if you reboot it?

How are you setting it up? Raid 5?

Model 4354R - SN: 9J28FLY1XE6H (Dual Bus)

Yes they do fail when new drives are installed. It's not all bays either, it's bay 2 and 4.

Will be setting it up by:
Splitting the Bays in 2 sets of 7 with 3 72G HDs

hi

My laptop's ( toshiba m45 ) LCD screen is broken, so I hooked it up to an external monitor (COMPAQ 7500)  which I am using now  but my problem is, the COLOR is too DIM. I want to make it brighter. I adjusted the brightness/contrast buttons on the monitor but it is still dim.  I also went to display-settings but under display it has ati radeon listed twice ( there was no compaq 7500)..  I need help  thanks.Hello!

WELCOME to CH!

We need more info, please..

Read this

Hi to all..

I've a little bad with my SOUND.. i've not it!
system running on win xp sp2; tried to reinstall drivers -- installed, win says that all is OK!

But.. i still haven't sound..

Sound card is integrated, chip mader is VIA.

I've a standart utilite, called SOUNDMAN (or like this). There is an test 4 audio + automatic chekin' what speakers  used.. when i start this test, my speakers makes little scrach, but than they dosen't make sounds.........

I think that reInstalling win will help me, but I don't want -- i've a lot of that i need to save.

Can U help me?

Thx a lot, B1rdEX.caould it be your speakers are shot or hooked uo WRONG? try them on a different computer if they work then it is proabably your soundcardno, they correct WORKS on another computer.

i tried 'ther speakers on my -- don't work  Check if the device setup is set properly.

Go to Control Panel --> Sounds and Audio Devices --> Audio tab.

Start->Control Panel->Sounds and Audio

On Volume tab, make SURE Mute is not checked, also that the Device Volume SLIDER is towards the right. Check under Advanced tab that Master Volume slider is up and Mute All is not checked.

I have a DELL desktop. I need to add a second display (bigger wall mounted monitor) to it.

Is there a way current video card provide display to both displays? Or I need to add another card? Is there any switch available?

Purpose of the 2nd display is to show images to people sitting a little far. So I was thinking 24" LCD. Do you guys recommend any PRODUCT (probably viewing angle is also a factor).

Thank you so much.What kind of SLOT do you have and what OS?

You might want to check thisout... What is your current video card?  Do you actually have a card or does your system use onboard/integrated video?  Does your current card have two ports, i.e. connectors, for video display DEVICES?   

Many cards have a VGA/D-SUB and a DVI port.  If you card only has one port, then you'll need to either replace your card with a card that will support two monitors or add a card to run the second monitor. 

What is your current video card?  What is the make and model of your COMPUTER or motherboard?Here is how know! Look at the back of your computer and if you have two spots to plug in monitors, then yes you can. Otherwise go out and buy you dual video card, they are easier to install and use in the long run.It is Dell Dimension 4700 desktop.

It has Intel GMA 900 controller.

This means I need to buy a dual output graphics card, right?

Thank you for help guys.hmm..

Dell Dimension4700. It uses on-board video, right?

Yeah, you need to buy a dual display graphics card. PCI-E cards..

Good luck and keep us posted! Here is what system configuration said:
PCI Express x16, 1 ( 1 ) x PCI Express x1, 2 ( 2 ) x PCI

Do I need to buy PCI or PCI-E?PCI-Express..

Read this

Found this information from hardforum.com...

Even though the manual says K8V-MX

One of the posters stated this fact:
Quote

UPDATED: Fujitsu Siemens Computers distributes the K8V-MX/S as the "D1711" mainboard. Here's their link to the KV8-MX/S User Manual (in PDF format):

http://www.fujitsu-siemens.co.uk/rl/...11-Z120-UK.pdf

There is a possibility that the motherboard may be faulty. But rather then exchanging that right now for a new one; I FELT it better to test other things first. What is the point in buying a new mainboard if you don't need one!!

hey you are annoying one and next give better advice too not a dumb one LIKE you did tonight

I never diagnosed motherboard for functionality, how do I go about doing that? Any suggestions?

I HAVE A COMPAQ DESKTOP 5000 SERIES AND THE BOARD WENT BAD WE HAVE PHOTOS ON THE DRIVE I NEED. DO I HAVE TO HAVE ANOTHER COMPAQ TO DO THIS? CAN I DO IT WITH MY HP LAPTOP? OR MY SONY DESKTOP?  USUALLY NOT A BIG DEAL BUT VERY IMPORTANT PHOTOS. PLEASE HELP ME. I OULD LIKE TO NOT HAVE TO SPEND A LOT OF MONEY GOING TO A SHOP.  THANK YOU j NADOLSKI      Hello!

Welcome to CH!

Is the harddisk a SATA  or an IDE drive? You can just hook it up on the working desktop..

KEEP us posted! No, you don't need another Compaq computer.

While you could remove your harddrive from your computer and install it internally into another computer, I would SUGGEST that you buy an external, USB enclosure for your harddrive. Just make sure that the enclosure is the right size (for 3.5" drive) and has the right interface for your harddrive (IDE or SATA.) If you do this, you can use any computer with a USB port to copy your data. Cost = ≈$20 - $40.

Good luck.  Thank You so much. I am so glad I found a place I could get amswers. I looked at Radio Shack and they have one for 19.95.  thanks again   : Terrific! Please post back and let us know how you made out.

I have done what both of you said, thx for joining patio, and results are:

After i uninstalled all burn programs,unplugged,than plugged back in DVD's,installed Nero 6 i took 2 blank dvd's i had, 1st was traxdata DVD+R and 2nd epro DVD+R (no DVD-R unfortunately) and started testing.
In windows there was no changes, no autoplay or any response LIKE before.
Than i opened nero and went into create data dvd,it didnt recognize DVD at first but than i went to disc info and it recognized dvd and i could burn it which i did. On 50% of burning Used read buffer went to 50% and was going up and down till the end but no errors. Burning successful for both but with a lot of struggling and loading.
After burning i wanted to check how are they reading dvd's that they burned, Pioneer passed for both dvd's with autoplay and all but LiteOn couldn't read non of the 2 even the one it burned. lol

Than i saw patio's reply,it sounded very good, and tried that,after i uninstalled/rebooted sec IDE wasn't installed at all,it said unknown IDE or smth so i installed it automatically and went to advanced options to check DMA; it said: Device 0
                               DMA if available
                               Current TRANSFER mode: Not Applicable

                               Device 1
                               DMA if available
                               Current transfer mode: Ultra DMA Mode 4
I clicked ok, rebooted just in case, and there were no changes in work of DVD's except that now in MyComp. for LiteOn it says CD Drive under name and TYPE and i BELIVE it loads DVD+R faster in nero. Btw where can i find SATA settings for DMA & PIO?Sorry it took awhile to get back...
The Lite-On showing as CD isn't an issue...Windows by nature will report a multi-function drive according to the last media it saw...one of those Gate's quirks i guess. 

As far as the SATA settings you can check in the BIOS to make sure UDMA is the setting on the SATA burner...

Good Luck.Hehe thank you!!

Ill proceed to fine tuning now that the problem is solved.

Thank you all you have been very helpful!I'm sure patio will be quite glad you have the issue under control...as I am.

Let us know if we can help any fiurther.

I have a Compaq Presario V4000 Notebook which keeps on freezing, the only way to unfreeze the thing is hit it with your hand (to the right of the MOUSE pad), the laptop is fine went its on a table but if you put it on your lap it would keep on freezing. I've removed and put back the RAM but the problem still continuous. The laptop is now out of warranty so I can't SEND it back to Compaq so does anyone know what I would need to replace to sort it?"the laptop is fine went its on a table but if you put it on your lap it would keep on freezing."

You need to clean the CPU fan,or the fan may be going bad.

You may also consider a laptop cooler.--->SearchHereI have ONE of those. Very nice.

Though it is called a laptop, it is not recommended you USE it on your lap because it gets too hot.Which is why I use the term "notebook PC". Laptops don't always FUNCTION well on laps.

I'm shopping for a good SET of surround-sound speakers to add music and/or on-line broadcasts to my small bookstore.  I want to be ABLE to run everything from my computer but am unsure whether I can effectively extend the speaker wires without degrading signal.  Also, should I opt for wireless and will they suffer similar interference if the speakers are placed in different rooms?

The main listening area is approximately30 feet by 45 feet with TWO adjoining rooms (WHOSE lines-of-sight) might be interrupted if wireless speakers are an option.  Otherwise, my biggest problem will be extending the manufacturer's provided wiring to reach the computer.  I'd PLAN on routing wiring top-side, above the drop-ceiling.

I's gratefully appreciate any advice and recommendations to make this investment effective and relatively simple.

Thanks
 

MacHello!

I've found this..

http://www2.shopping.com/xPP-Computer_Speakers

I recently purchased a new video card to help my performance when playing World of Warcraft.  Old card is AGP 4x/8x GeForce4 Ti 4200 by MSI that is several years old.  It would allow me to play the game with all graphics settings at minimum, at a resolution of 1280x1024, at average framerates around 18 frames per second.

The new card is HIS Hightech H26XQT512ANP Radeon HD 2600XT 512MB 128-bit GDDR3 AGP 4X/8X HDCP Ready Video Card - Retail.  I found this card from reading a review on TomsHardware.com, which I've used in the past with great success when making hardware purchasing decisions.  This is supposed to be the best buy for the money in the $100 range, and likely in the last round of cards for AGP interface.

There is a known driver issue with the AGP version of this card, but since it's been around so long there are many fixes out there for it.  After installing the card, installing the drivers, and applying the official ATI hotfix for AGP, the card seems to be working properly.  However, my framerate in WoW has actually dropped by about 7 frames per second on average, and the general performance of the PC is slower than it was with the old card.

Using ATI's Catalyst interface I can see that while WoW is running the video card is at around 10-20% utilization.  I was never able to see how much the old card was being utilized.  I just can't understand why a card that is supposed to be so much faster would cause my system to slow down...

Other Hardware components are:
- AMD Athlon 64 3000+ Newcastle 2.0GHz Socket 754 Single-Core Processor Model ADA3000AXBOX - Retail
- MSI K8N Neo Platinum 754 NVIDIA nForce3 250Gb ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail
- 3x Crucial 512MB 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Desktop Memory Model CT6464Z40B - OEM
- HITACHI Deskstar 7K250 HDS722516VLSA80 (13G0254) 160GB 7200 RPM SATA 1.5Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM

Pertinent Software:
- Windows XP (32 bit) SP2
- Avast Antivirus (freeware)

Since installing the new card I have also updated DirectX to the latest version.  I believe the last time I upgraded DirectX was in 2006.

Any thoughts as to what could be the PROBLEM?  When I bought the hardware listed above (Processor, MB, Memory, HDD) I brought the video card over from an older computer.  The old video card is 5-7 years old and is by far the oldest component in the system, so naturally I assumed it was the bottleneck in my system performance.  I noticed that it seems like the HDD is being accessed a lot now that the new card is in, much more so than before.  Might the rest of the system be struggling to get the data to the Video Card now?

I had intended for this purchase to extend the life of the system for a few more years, but now it seems as though I just threw my money out the window.  Any advice is appreciated. That seems odd, your new video card is much more powerful than your old one.
Check your chipset drivers and see if you can update them.
Also, defragment your hard drive.
Got the latest drivers for your graphics card?PSU ? ?
Ran the HDD diagnostics lately ? ?Interesting thoughts.  I did read in some forums that the card is a power hog.  It actually has its own molex power connector.

The Catalyst Control Center (CCC) has an "Overdrive" section used for overclocking the card.   If the power connector is not attatched, this section is grayed out and is not an option.  When I first put the card in, this section was greyed out even though it was plugged in.  I have several case fans daisy chained on that power line, so I grabbed the connector straight from the PSU and plugged it in instead and now I have access to the overclocking FEATURES.  This did not have any impact on my gaming or general performance though.

I did run disk defragmenter when I noticed the excessive HD access.  The analysis said defragmentation was not necessary, but I did it anyway.  It did not seem to help.

Strangely enough, the latest version of video card drivers was actually on the disk that shipped with the card.  I'm going to try to download the drivers from ATI again, and try with and without the hotfix.  But as of right now I believe I do have the latest drivers for the card, and I have the AGP hotfix from ATI applied as well.  Neither are WHQL verified or digitally signed. 

I have not tried updating the MB chipset drivers.  I'll do that tonight.

It would be my luck that I just happen to have a HD failure in process and this is all coincidence...

Does anyone know what would happen if my PSU were underpowered for the system?  I have 2 DVD drives, a floppy drive, the video card, and the SATA HD all pulling from the PSU.  Everything seems to be running fine, just slow.  I thought if the PSU were underpowered that I would get a BSoD or the system would just shut off, but I don't really know.

I think my PSU is an Antec Basiq 350 Watt Power Supply (23350) from Circuit City.  They have a very limited supply, and I had to buy one from them because my old 500W PSU failed a few months ago.  I think I'm going to hit up Newegg again and get a decent PSU and see if that helps too.I think you may need a better power supply.
350W should be OK for that system, but if that card's a power hog it may be wise to get one that gives a little more juice.Updated CPU driver for MSI motherboard, as well as onboard LAN driver and some of the software utilities that came with the motherboard.  Now I'm getting errors with LiveUpdate (MSI's updating software), and the performance is not any better.  BIOS and NB chipset drivers had no updates available.

Interestingly, the voltage for CPU, AGP, RAM, etc, are all 5-10% below target.  I'm pretty sure they are within allowable tolerance, but it just reinforces the theory that the PSU is contributing to the problem.  I would think that if the Video card had insufficient power that it would just fail to work, but it's a pretty sophisticated card and I wouldn't be surprised if it scaled back its own performance to match the capabilities of the PSU. 

New PSU is in the mail from newegg (CORSAIR CMPSU-520HX 520W ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 Power Supply 100 - 240 V UL, CUL, CE, CB, FCC Class B, TUV, CCC, C-tick - Retail).  Hopefully bumping up from a barebones 350W PSU to a decent 520W PSU will make a noticeable difference.  But at $119, my "cheap upgrade to extend the life of my old PC" is now topping the scales at $260.  (Note: Theoretically I have $40 in mail in rebates coming my way, but I never count those as I only actually get about half of the ones I submit)

The video card is "exchange only", meaning I'm stuck with it.  The PSU is a standard return item, so I can send it back for a refund if necessary.  I figure that if I end up biting the bullet and buying all new parts for a whole new system (PCIe here I come!) then this PSU will be a nice addition to that system.  So, it's not all in vain.I think your new PSU will help. Its seems to be the weak link in your system.

Let us know how it goes.
Quote from: ryanbarrier on June 13, 2008, 09:20:44 AM

(Note: Theoretically I have $40 in mail in rebates coming my way, but I never count those as I only actually get about half of the ones I submit)

After a recent lightning storm my PC fried. I had to replace the power supply, motherboard and RAM (wasn't compatible with the new board). Now every time I plug my Desktop into the wall, it auto-starts without me having to press the power button. I have unplugged the front headers and it still starts when the PC without the power switch or reset switches being plugged in. System Specs are listed below.

XFX 790i Ultra Motherboard
Corsair XMS3 DDR3 2048 Dual Channel RAM
EVGA 512MB 8800GT
E2180 Intel Pentium Dual Core (I need to upgrade, I know ><)
CoolerMaster 850Watt PSU
Standard 80GB SATA HDD
Standard Combo ODD

This was happening when I had my old CoolerMaster 850 Watt PSU, I thought it may have been fried by the storm as well, but the new one is doing this too.... Is it a BIOS configuration? I'm not really quite sure what to do at this point. Any HELP is much appreciated, thank you!

EDIT > I have Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit OEM version. I have all appropriate CDs and Documentation. I currently have SP1 installed.mabye the on switch on your case try a new buttonI apologize, I am a bit confused by your question. It has nothing to do with the case at all. I said I unplugged all of the front headers. After I unplugged the front headers, I plugged in the PSU to the wall again, and it started up without me having to do anything. Normally when you plug a computer in the wall you MUST press a power button to power the unit. Mine doesn't seem to be doing this. I have since re-enabled the front headers so the power switches work again, but I still have the same problem when I unplug and replug in the case.With the headers unplugged the PSU is in an unswitched position...it will power up when plugged in.Correct, however the problem persists even after I re-enabled the front headers. The actual PSU doesn't have a on/off switch, it is switchless. Before the storm and with my old BFG 680i, I never had this problem...

EDIT > Is it possible that the Case was SHOT yesterday too and even though the PC recognizes to shutdown and restart when the headers are plugged in, the PSU is not reading it?

Also, is it possible I have the Switches in wrong, I don't know if you need to install them according to a +/- method as there are 2 sides. I don't know if that would cause the problem, even though the PC is still recognizing the buttons for shutdowns and restarts.do you have wake on lan disabled in bios cause if it's connected to a network it will power up if there's activity on the network.I couldn't find that option, either way it wasn't connected to the network when this started happening this morning because the cable modem fried as well and I had to replace it. So it was doing this while the LAN was disabled. Is it possible that the Motherboard is defective?Yes you need to get the polarity right.
I've seen a power switch act like a reset switch and vica VERSA and or neither of them work with the polarity backwards.My BIOS has a setting that specifies what should the computer do after a power outage.  I believe the default should be "resume last state" which would keep it off if it was off before the outage, and turn it on if it was on before the outage.  You should also be able to change the setting to "Always Stay Off" or "Always Turn On."  Different BIOS manufacturers will have different options, but I know mine has the option and it sounds very much like yours does too.I unplugged the case, reset the polarity on the headers (HDD light started working, but I already figured something was messed up with that using polarity). Reset the memory, reset the CMOS went into the BIOS -> Power Management and there was an option "PWRON after PWR-Fail" I disabled that. It is still happening. I even used a new power cable because someone at my work (CompUSA) said that it could be a messed up ground in the cable. Nothing seems to help, anyone have any more suggestions, and I do want to thank everyone for the help so far! I really appreciate the quick responses =DDo you have the motherboard installed correctly on the standoffs and the mounting screws moderately tight in the proper holes, i.e., could there be a short?

Have you tried replacing the power supply to rule it out?

I don't know if I would say "moderately" I think I would just use the word tight. Yes, I have replaced the PSU. Quote from: WrathX2 on June 12, 2008, 09:16:05 PM

I don't know if I would say "moderately" I think I would just use the word tight.

Hi All,
LOOKING for some HELP with a Cristie F102-301 SCSI tape DRIVE. There is very little info about this drive on the net but I believe it is very similar if not the same as this one http://ps-2.kev009.com:8081/eprmhtml/eprm0/f1977.htm
I'm using an ADAPTEC AHA-2944UW SCSI controller and a cable with terminator.
My PROBLEM is that the tape drive won't show up in the SCSI bios, the only thing that does show up is the host adaptor.
Does anybody have any idea with what settings I need to be looking at on the adapter and the drive to get it all working?
Any help appreciated.

A little 20 gb system drive in a 5 year old XP PC, which has only motherboard based IDE controllers, appears to be failing - it's started an intermittent clicking - after which windows shuts down.  I had plans to replace the drive anyway with at least a 160 gb drive.  My question is, since I would probably use the new HDD in the old machine for no more than a couple of years, and then install that drive in a much newer, quad core Vista machine, does it not make sense to get a SATA II drive, with an IDE-SATA adaptor, to at least insure that, in the future, at least, I would be able to use that same drive with no loss in its inherent speed capability?  Are the experts out there aware of something I'm not considering?

By the way, the only use I have for the older machine is to use it for testing (both software & hardware) on my network of 3 machines.What are the rest of the specs of machine? RAM...CPU...etc?

As IDE drives tend to be a little more expensive than a same capacity SATA drive, my ADVICE would be to get a PCI SATA card and a SATA hard drive.
Then you can use the SATA drive in another machine and the PCI card may come in handy again sometime.
320Gb drives are cheap now by the way, it may be worth spending a little extra for the capacity - if you get a decent warranty too it'll last you.For Spoiler:  The CPU is a 1.5 ghz P4, it has 512 mb RAM, one cheap CD ROM drive, one cheap CD-RW Drive, one Floppy Drive.  I don't see it as having much intrinsic value - except for the purpose I have in mind - mainly as a testing platform for hardware and software solutions. 

For Calum:  I really don't see that I'll have a future use for a PCI SATA card (I assume that would cost more than an IDE/SATA adapter - right?).  You are, of course correct about larger capacity drives being inexpensive today, and I may well take your advice and get one much larger than 160 gb.  My original plan, however, was to try to keep my overall cost in the older machine as low as possible.  By the way, I already have a terabyte of storage in my quad core machine, which will likely be the recipient of the new drive, at such time as I unload the older PC.

Thanks to both of you. Quote from: veritasffg on June 13, 2008, 01:14:09 PM

For Calum:  I really don't see that I'll have a future use for a PCI SATA card (I assume that would cost more than an IDE/SATA adapter - right?). 

Hi, I just reformatted and most is figured but my sound card. I have an SB Audugy (1) Sound Card. I had a lot of trouble finding a driver that would actually MAKE it play any sound. I finally got one that worked, but it works badly. Whenever I play an MP3 or my alerts on MSN Messenger go off, it makes this really crackly screetchy sound. It must be something to do with the software. If there is any update software, do you think it could work, and where could I find it?

Thanks.Scratchy sounds are usually the indication of bad speakers. How old is this computer?Where are you getting your drivers from?
What OS are you using?

Go here to see how to identify the exact model number of your sound card:
http://support.creative.com/kb/ShowArticle.aspx?url=http://203.211.142.198:80/srvs/cgi-bin/webcgi.exe/,/?st=472,e=0000000000026888110,k=8063,sxi=0,varset=ws:,case=46261

Then go to the following location and find the CORRECT driver according to your model number:
http://support.creative.com/Products/product_list.aspx?catID=1&CatName=Sound+Blaster#

Incorrect drivers can cause distortion/crackling noises. If everything was working fine before you reformatted, you've most likely DOWNLOADED the wrong drivers.Hiya guys, thanks.

My speakers are fine. The MP3s I play get almost stuck. It's the sound card. My Speakers were fine before I reformatted... I'm sure they still are. It's just Sound Blaster Audigy. The first version. I've gone to the site's downloads but there's only a BETA and a Vista driver for this sound card. I'm on Win XP.

*Tries BETA driver...

Says my PC doesn't support it...

... Same with the vista one...What is the exact model number of your sound card?SB0090 is the model. Quote from: quaxo on June 12, 2008, 04:35:04 AM

Then go to the following location and find the correct driver according to your model number:
http://support.creative.com/Products/product_list.aspx?catID=1&CatName=Sound+Blaster#

HI, I'm having a rather big PROBLEM with my laptop...

I was USING it one day to access the internet, and it suddenly came up with a blue screen with a lot of writing on and then turned itself off.
I then turned it back on and it came up with the Intel logo on start up but after that the screen went BLANK and it did not load anything else up I didn't do anything different to what i would normally do and I'm GUESSING something MAJOR has happened...please could someone give me some idea to what has died???!!!! 

Please write back to me soooooon

Nataliewe will probably need all that info from the blue screen...can you get back to that point ? ?

hey guys,I'm coming to the experts because I'm not sure what i need. i want to set a video cam and web feed up on my PC,but i dint know what is the best route. i want a good,clean live picture,WITHOUT that jerky stuff happening. can someone please tell me what it is I'm going to need to buy. i have a pretty good PC (ALIENWARE for gaming),AMD 3500+,nvidia 7800GTX pcie,and a gig of ram. it works great for gaming,but I'm entering a whole new world here. any help at all would be greatly appreciated.                        THANX IN ADVANCEsorry,IM a moron!!!! i would like to know what camera and or video card and camera i need to get. probly should have made that more specific huh??5 days and no replys. not even any idea's. so much for the name of the site.....THERES NO HOPE HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Well, now, that may not be true...

Let me poke around a little...

Now, do you just want the camera for video chat, or are you going to set up a feed on a web site?  What kinds of products and / or software have you looked at so far?Sorry for the delay. I'm not sure how this could have slipped through our fingers...

ANYWAYS, basically you're looking for a webcam.

Quote

WITHOUT that jerky stuff happening

My pc no longer allos me to download any files/programs and Internet Explorer has disappeared!Wrong section, but anyways...

Do you remember doing anything before this? (download/run/install anything before this happened?)

Can you find Internet Explorer?
C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\iexplorer.exe

What Operating System?Thanks, sorry about wrong section. I'm using XP, I was carrying out a tidy-up and may have deleted necessary file/s. I have an desktop icon for IE but when clicked box APPEARS and disappears. Hope you can help, thanks again.A box appears? Any error message?

Quote

Can you find Internet Explorer?
C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\iexplorer.exe

I was carrying out a tidy-up and may have deleted necessary file/s.

They weren't SHOWING for me at all earlier.
Now they show but load very slowly.
I would say that the issue is integrated graphics stealing system RAM, but I don't want to STEP on anyone here.I'm afraid until some of the questions are answered we are stuck... Quote from: patio on June 14, 2008, 10:47:08 AM

Quote from: abubucker0 on June 14, 2008, 08:19:10 AM

check dis thn.......

Check what ? ?

Sorry but your screenshots are not showing on my end...

Part of the ram itself, try it in another machine that use it an see if it dont show the same thing.  If it does its probably bad.

Quote from: squall_01 on June 14, 2008, 01:18:57 PM

Part of the ram itself, try it in another machine that use it an see if it dont show the same thing.  If it does its probably bad.

if it is bad den how come cpu-z could detect it

I have a problem that's been occurring since the first day I've owned my computer. Every time I put strain on the CPU (by opening multiple programs, playing a graphics intensive game, ect.) and the CPU fan (stock) speeds up, the sound stutters and  the sound once again stutters when the fan slows back to its regular speed. I thought this might have something to do with using integrated sound but I installed a sound CARD and this problems still occurs.
This is EXTREMELY annoying, especially since the fan speeds up/slows down a lot when I'm listening to music and SURFING the web at the same time.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

(In case you need to know, the specs of this Acer Aspire are: 3800 x2, x1900xt, 250GB HDD, 3GB RAM, Sound Blaster Audigy, nothing OC'ed) Quote

the CPU fan (stock) speeds up, the sound stutters and  the sound once again stutters when the fan slows back to its regular speed.

Quote

the CPU fan (stock) speeds up, the sound stutters and  the sound once again stutters when the fan slows back to its regular speed.

What sound? Form the fan or the speakers?

If it's from the speaker, they might not be fitted properly and are hitting against something (or the fans aren't properly manufactured).