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for the last while my cpu randomly turns on.  also if my cat brushes up against it while its running it will reboot.  Over the weekend opening a program will bring up a blue screen and reboot.  we have formatted cpu and RELOADED windows xp back on everything will run but while trying to run wow it does the same blue screen.   someone please help.  dont KNOW what the PROBLEM might be.  my only guess would be hard drive is shot.Go to System Properties - Advanced - Startup and recovery settings and uncheck "automatically restart". Next time there's an error the blue screen should stay up. Post the entire contents of that blue screen error here. Also, just as an aside, you don't format a cpu - you format a hard disc this is displayed on blue screen

Blue screen

A problem has been detected and windows has been shut down to percent damage to your computer.

PAGE_FAULT_IN_ NONPAGED_AREA

If this is the first time you've seen this stop error screen, restart computer. If this screen appears again follows these steps:

Check to make sure any new hardware or SOFTWARE is properly installed. 
If this is a new installation, ask your hardware or software manufacurer for any new windows updates you might need.
If problem continues, disable or remove any newly installed hardware or software. Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing. 
If you need to use safe mode to remove or disable components, restart your computer, press f8 to SELECT advanced startup options, and then select safe mode.

Technical information:
***STOP: 0x00000050 (0xE13D4000, 0x00000000, 0x8053B912, 0x00000001)

Beginning dump of physical memory
Physical memory dump complete.
Contact your system adminstator or technical support group for further assitance.

alright, i been having this problem for a while now and just recently got a new video card (GeForce 6800GT OC).

Quake 4 was just released and i'm having some serious framerate issues even on the lowest possible settings.  I figured that this was kind of odd and decided to run Aquamark 3. My OVERALL score turned out with an average FPS of 27.37, with the latest nVidia drivers.

so once i do that i go compare it to the the result of SOMEONE else with the same card and a bit less system specs here http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/bfg6800gtoc/4.html

btw i have:
AMD Athlon 64 3500+
MSI K8T Neo 2 (MS-6702E) motherboard
1 gig DDR PC3200 400mhz
GeForce 6800GT OC (overclocked)

this is an almost brand new computer with a brand new 80 gig HD

something is wrong and i have no idea what it could be


oh oops, i also forgot to mention that i did aquamark 3 test in 1024x768 res, No AA with 4x anisotropyHow many processes are running in Task Manager?

Try running 'Hijack This' to check for hidden processes - and post log scan result on here if possible .Have you run a virus/spyware scan?http://www.geocities.com/sipez0r/hijackthis.log

yeah i have run a spyware/anitvirus scan just recentlyLooking at the list you have AOL messenger, Windows Messenger, NVidia (NWiz, NvCpl), iTunes, OpenOffice,  Justsched (QuickTime updater), iPod & QuickTime all running.

Use msconfig from the run command and then remove the TICKS from these in the 'Startup' list to disable the autorun function of them.
They will all be using your resources and your internet bandwidth from bootup.

See how your performance runs after that.performance = same

i think theres a bigger issue here than processes.
i think there are settings somewhere that are possibly slowing my card down.

There might be a prob with my motherboard, but  i've checked bios settings and they all look fine to me.Is it AGP or PCI? What brand is it? Have you tried going to the manufacter website and submitting them your problem? I think I have the same problem with my EVGA 6800nu and they told me to send it back in for RMA.Why don't you NOT overclock it until your system gets running at a basic level. Let's reduce the possible variables.its nVidia GeForce 6800GT OC AGP 256mb

OC means it comes overclocked out of the box, look it up. Quote

OC means it comes overclocked out of the box, look it up.

hi i have big problem with my pc when i start my pc after windows booting screen SHUTOFF cpu fun runing power light on SAVE MODE runing but i have normel vga mode problem i have gigabyte G31 MOTHER bord DDR2 1gb ram cpu dulcore 2.0 please solve this problem E mail- [email protected]

thanksNo need to Post the same issue MULTIPLE times...
Someone will be along shortly.

Hi guys just need a bit of wisdom. Iv overclocked my Athlon643500+ from 2.2GHz to 2.57GHz, I also have a Geforce 7800GTX which is clocked from 430/1200 to 495/1360 so its a pretty huge increase and the performance is a lot better. However If I GO any higher even a single MHz it becomes unstable. Im just worried in case Im pushing it to a degree that it can't handle and it will slowly burn out instead of an immediate explosion.

Also when I put the cpu clock down I can go higher with my Video card and vice versa. What should I put my Mhz into? The CPU or Graphics card for PEAK performance.though I myself am going to attempt in the not so near future OVERCLOCKING, its TERMS and conditions like these that keep me satisfied
waiting.

[highlight]immediate explosion.[/highlight]  <  

(I would carefully do a lot more reading on this and learn more on voltage = understanding  before "messing around"....)Graphics card gives by far the most performance increase, but with that setup all games should whizz anyway. Why risk physical damage to your computer for the sake of a few FPS?Hardware manufacturer's and retaliers alike love overclockers...You can overclock them both, you don't need to overclock just one.
That OC should give you a good boost.
Just watch your temps.Yeah it is a kick *censored* setup but Im not doing it for just a few frames per second. Supreme Commander is an absolute killer on my basic rig, company of heroes and UT2007 look much more demanding. Thanks for the advice though.CoH isn't that bad, my friend runs it on a Radeon 9550.
Although he also says he runs FEAR on highest settings with no lag . . . something's wrong there . . .
Anyway, CoH will run great on that rig.
Not sure about UT07 though., you may have to turn the detail down a bit.Look in your nVidia settings and see if you have for example, anti-alaising (or whatever it's called I can never remember) and so forth set to high levels and to automatically override the program's settings. If you have them changing the options in game might not be having an effect, causing performance to remain slow.

Pentium II - 400MHz - Win XP

Symptoms:
Computer will not boot up.  I get to the first DOS-like screen where it gives the RAM memory check (says "FINE"), and then it FREEZES on this screen.  

It says "Press Delete to enter setup".  But the keyboard is dead (cap lock and num lock will not light up).  But keyboard does get initial lights to it for a moment indiucating that it is properly connected.

How can I exit this, delete everything on my computer, and re-install XP so I can start fresh???

I think my computer got eaten alive my internet computer viruses.  The computer was on the Internet without virus pritection.  

There is NOTHING on the hard disk I care about.  I just want to get it working.

Additional info:
- Holding down F8 does nothing.  It is like the computer is not getting anything fromt eh keyboard at all.
- Tried installing the XP disc but I am not getting anywhere there either.
Everything you've stated, indicates a hardware problem.  BIOS ("the first DOS-like screen") is having difficulty with recognizing some piece of hardware, maybe hard drive, CDROM, or ?  Then it locks up the keyboard.  Disconnect hard drive and see if you can enter setup (BIOS).  If you can get in by pressing delete key, it's mostly likely the hard drive.How much ram? how big is the hardrive......and does it past the M$OFT hardware compatability list? Quote

How much ram? how big is the hardrive......and does it past the M$oft hardware compatability list?

Lots of RAM: 256M

That is actually barely enough to run Windows XP.
You may need to reset the BIOS.

I was just wondering, should RAID 1 drives be swapped even if they are working properly to get equal read wear? How does the RAID system determine which drive to read DATA from. Obviously, it has to write to both of them, so that shouldn't be a problem, but when it reads from them, does it select a drive at random to read from, or does it just choose WHICHEVER one has the FASTEST read speed?Define "read wear".
In RAID 1, read requests are serviced by one or other the two drives containing the requested data, whichever one involves least seek time plus rotational latency. Over time this will average out to 50% for each. In any case, neither writing data to, nor reading data from a hard drive causes any "wear" to EITHER the read heads, which float on cushions of air, or the platters. Of course there is wear to the motor that spins the stack of platters, as with a single drive.

Epson STYLUS BX300F  How do I REMOVE back of printer to check paper feed.http://esupport.epson-europe.com/ProductHome.aspx?lng=en-GB&data=0ccCGROWIYNstSgcrw69PMgKXkjL3b7ib+U002F3qr5XougU003D&tc=5Thanks Allan but there are no DETAILS on how to remove backYou're CORRECT - I APOLOGIZE. Still trying to find it - no luck so far.

I'm looking for a new all-in-one with a budget of about $200. Scan/copy and print legal-size is a must. Legal-size glass is much preferred. Large-format (11x17) would be a big plus, but not absolutely essential. Excellent print quality is. I also want reliability and a company that will stand behind their product. I looked at three printers at OM and made a test copy on each:

Epson WF-7510, $250 on sale for $180: Copy quality was about equal to the HP. The Epson copy had crisper detail and better saturation, but didn't reproduce colors as well as the HP. It can copy/scan to 11x17, and print to 13x19. It looks huge, but the footprint was actually not much bigger (effectively) than the HP.

HP Officejet Pro 8600 Plus, $300 on sale for $230: Not a serious consideration because I have three dead HP's at home, but print quality is excellent for COMPARISON. All of mine STARTED giving trouble within months after warranty expiration, then they won't lift a finger to help. This one has legal-size glass in SCANNER. Prints letter/legal.

Brother MFC-J4510DW, $200 on sale for $170: Scan/copy to legal-size, but glass is letter-size. Prints up to 11x17. Copy detail almost equal to the HP. Saturation about same as the HP. Colors were slightly off. Lightweight and very small footprint.

Are Epson printers more reliable than HP? What about customer service? Do the Epson cartridges expire? Can I REFILL them? How does print mileage compare? Do the Epson or Brother include a "color calibration" feature?

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide to help in my decision.

Hello
My PC:Toshiba Satellite L650 K1U
So i used crucial scanner and bought ram cards 4 * 2 GB,i replaced them with oldones and if i start my laptop: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KNjzt1BBeE Quote from: Raimo on March 03, 2013, 01:15:11 AM

Hello
My PC:Toshiba Satellite L650 K1U...

I have an Intel Socket 478 PENT 4 Mother Board.  When I go to start the unit up there are no beeps, post or ANYTHING.  The south bridge seems too get overly warm and I just tried changeing the PSU too SEE if it would fix some of the issues I had with it as far as IDE Devices.  I tried to use a PCI Video card an still the same thing tooI tried takeing out the RAM and it beeps.  It saying it gets POWER and some red light comes on at the bottom too.  Its an Intel Board but. there are SEVERAL numbers so Im not sure which, one it is.Do you have another RAM module you could try? I'd begin there first before thinking anything is wrong with the board per se.I tried another stick same thing

Hello, i NEED you guys to help me I bought new Keyboard and Mouse before ONE week. It works fine,  but after few minutes it stopped working.
It says: COMPUTER doesn't reconoising (sry for bad eng) one USB.
But it's not just one, it's keyboard and mouse. I have camera on usb, but it's working fine. Don't know what happened to mouse and keyb.It's win7 not XP :SDid you say the old keyboard and mouse WORK?
Have you tried the old keyboard without the mouse?
Have you tried old keyboard, no camera and no mouse?

If the problem seems to be the new items, send anthem back ASAP.

BYW: When HARDWARE components fail, Windows has a limited ability to generate the exact message. A  USB port can fail, but it may not identify exactly what went wrong. Some devices draw too much current from the USB. A brand new device should never do that. But they do.Yeah old mouse and keyB worked. But i wanted new. I bought wireless mouse and keyB if i not say that i am saying that now
it works now i don't know what happened that day, it's just bang. Nothing working. But now it works. On one day it happened twice :SAfter that bang i need to restart my comp and then will it woRks. But it's hard to restart my computer all day :S
I hope that wil not be my problem anymore :/IMHO, don't use a wireless mouse and keyboard unless your environment really needs it. Where did you get it? If they have a return or exchange policy, go for it. Another brand might work better.
Here in the USA, some discount stores have very liberal return policies on stuff that does not work as advertised. Doesn't hurt to ask. Quote from: Geek-9pm on March 29, 2013, 09:17:57 PM

Here in the USA, some discount stores have very liberal return policies on stuff that does not work as advertised. Doesn't hurt to ask.

Every so often my mouse goes dead.  When I reinsert the USB plug, it runs again.

Why is the signal being DROPPED?

Mouse is a Logitech MX518

System runs Windows XP sp3


Thank you for replies.I like to report on the solution to this problem since it was never solved and evidently was so difficult an issue that no ONE EVEN attempted a solution.  PERHAPS in the future someone else may have this issue and now you will know enough not only to generate a reply, but to actually fix the problem.

There was a problem with the mouse itself, not the software.  Replacing the mouse fixed the problem.

Pass it on.

tring to get a SCSI Optical DRIVE HOOKED up too my unit too pull Audio files off a bunch of these Optical Disks.

My machine uses windows xp and 7 USEING an PENTIUM 4 Server BOARD.

Hi there,

I've somehow managed to change the screen width setting on my laptop which uses Microsoft Vista.  Screen width is only 2/3 of the full SIZE of the laptop although the height is still correct - it's like I've minimised the screen, but I haven't!  I've tried to change the RESOLUTION and that doesn't work as it's ALREADY set on High.  I'm guessing I've pressed a BUTTON/ function screen by accident but I'm not sure what.  I've looked through your Help notes but can't work out what to do.  I've also done a Systems Restore but that didn't change anything.  Please help, thanks.Right CLICK on the Desktop and click on "Screen Resolution".

Adjust the slider and see what works best.

I was going to take it out to reinstall the drivers. When I reboot the system the fan comes on for one second and shuts down. I put the wireless adapter back in and it works fine. I can't reinstall my adapter as I am not able to reinstall the drivers as along as it is out. Is there something from the mother board that is causing this or any ideas . Thank you Quote from: clnie3 on March 05, 2013, 12:42:29 PM

I was going to take it out to reinstall the drivers. When I reboot the system the fan comes on for one second and shuts down. I put the wireless adapter back in and it works fine. I can't reinstall my adapter as I am not able to reinstall the drivers as along as it is out. Is there something from the mother board that is causing this or any ideas . Thank you

Ok I just built a computer and it worked fine it STARTED then just turned off and never turned on again I need help with this please is it my psu or my CPU ? I mean I know it works but it just turned off btw I have. A 500 watt psu is that enough for an 8 core CPU a ati 7870 gpu and asrock 970 extreme 3 motherboard ? I hope it is but I think that is the problem I will provide full specs if you need them just TELL meMBoard standoffs installed properly ? ?
Thermal paste applied CORRECTLY ? ?
4/6 pin CPU power PLUG in place ? ?Is this a 8 core AMD CPU or a i7 Quad core with hyper threading?
I am running a 500W PSU with a Sapphire HD7870 and a i7-3770, 4 hard drives, an X-Fi titanium PCI-e on a P8Z77-V LX board.

However my two 12V rails are:
12V1 = 16A
12V2 = 17A

This is what is more important, making sure your 12V rail can handle the load placed on it.

A 500W supply might have all it's current output in the 5V rail say at 60A
as P=IV 5x60 = 300W
leaving only 200W for the CPU, Graphics card and other 12V, and 3.3V components.

Also take note a PSU at best is 80% EFFICIENT meaning 20% power output is to be taken off the total. Quote from: Kurtiskain on March 14, 2013, 03:30:36 AM

Is this a 8 core AMD CPU or a i7 Quad core with hyper threading?
I am running a 500W PSU with a Sapphire HD7870 and a i7-3770, 4 hard drives, an X-Fi titanium PCI-e on a P8Z77-V LX board.

However my two 12V rails are:
12V1 = 16A
12V2 = 17A

This is what is more important, making sure your 12V rail can handle the load placed on it.

A 500W supply might have all it's current output in the 5V rail say at 60A

as P=IV 5x60 = 300W
leaving only 200W for the CPU, Graphics card and other 12V, and 3.3V components.

Also take note a PSU at best is 80% efficient meaning 20% power output is to be taken off the total.

Hi all
I want to upgrade my computer and am looking for something Quicker.
Would it be best to upgrade the Processor or Memory, Thinking of the Processor AMD Phenom II X4 995 3.2GHz

What would you recommend.

This is what I have now

Motherbord - ASRock K10N78
http://www.asrock.com/mb/NVIDIA/K10N78/

Processor - AMD Phenom II X4 920 2.80 MHz
http://products.amd.com/pages/desktopcpudetail.aspx?id=510

Memory - 8gb DDR2The top end of what you can buy for that mobo is an AMD Phenom II X6 1090T (6 cores 3.2GHz) for about ~$200. It will most likely need a BIOS update to work.

On the flip side though you can buy a much more modern and faster AMD FX-8350 (Eight-Cores 4GHz) for about the same money and invest in a newer mobo that will feature DDR3 RAM and possibly USB3.

Basically you have the same problem as me although you're not stuck with a Phenom I (all of 2GHz whoo!)I agree that the 8-core AMD FX-8350 is the better upgrade path. You also want to have DDR3 memory that is faster than the DDR2 which is slower.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131795    Motherboard $55

http://support.asus.com/Cpusupport/List.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=M5A78L-M%20LX%20PLUS&p=1&s=24  ASUS CPU Support - Shows support for this CPU/Motherboard Pair which is important as for some max out at 4 and 6 core CPU support, while this one will handle 8-cores.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113284    CPU $200

Newegg has free SHIPPING on both of these items.

* Just need to add DDR3 RAM and most of the components of your current build can migrate to this build. Also depending on motherboard features you may want to go with a motherboard that supports greater than 8GB Ram, USB3.0, Crossfire etc. But this board I linked is probably the best bargain for AM3+ motherboards that I have seen for features and a quality board that should be trouble free. I was tempted to buy the motherboard a week ago when I saw it this cheap but didnt.

Originally I was going to upgrade to a socket AM3 Phenom II x6 myself about a month ago to upgrade one of my other systems from its Sempron 145 single core and have that system become my primary gaming system since its AM3 socket motherboard running on DDR3 memory supports the Phenom II x6, and my current gaming system is an older AM2+ motherboard that has the AM3 Athlon II x4 620 in it and is slightly bottlenecked by the DDR2 800Mhz RAM when the CPU is best paired with DDR3 RAM, as well as the motherboard only supports 4GB RAM maximum 2GB per slot and the other supports 8GB maximum.

What I found was that the 6 core Phenom's are only available as older stock online and come at a premium. Newegg etc only has the Phenon II x4's and no longer have any 6 core for AM3 socket available. I was thinking of originally just swapping the CPU's between the two motherboards, but the small gain between DDR2 and DDR3 run speed wasnt worth the work and rebuilds of OS etc. But if I tapped into DDR3 memory with a Phenom II x6 plus could have 8GB RAM with 64-bit OS, that was going to be pure performance and worth it for me.

But when I LOOKED around, I saw that for about the same money it was going to cost me for that Phenom II x6, I might as well go with a newer not too expensive good name brand motherboard and FX AM3+ socket CPU that benchmarks better than the Phenom II x6 as well as have the ability to upgrade further down the road vs stuffing a Phenom II x6 into the motherboard I have that supports it and after spending the money not able to upgrade further because the board is running to its maximum supported potential.

I decided to hold off on the upgrade for now with the mindset that if I hold off now, I can get something far better later on for the same money. What i have now is plenty for games I run etc. I dont have any lag with the quadcore and the video card I am using. But when I start to feel that the Motherboard/CPU combo are no longer holding up to the games I play, I will be forced to have to upgrade at that point. With a 4GB RAM Max on this gaming system built in 2009, that Motherboard/CPU/RAM upgrade will be sooner than later. I will never understand the compulsion to post links to recommended products. This website is used internationally, unless stated in the user’s profile you don't know where they may be from. Webpages listing in two separate currencies have been posted and personally they mean nothing to me.

(Before anyone SAYS anything, the prices I posted were to illustrate the difference in value) Quote from: vinnit on MARCH 13, 2013, 01:27:29 AM

you can chose processor according motherboard, i think AMD FX 4100

http://www.naaptol.com/processors/amd-fx-4100/P/947368.html

I will never understand the compulsion to post links to recommended products....

i recommended aIntel Core i5 2300 Processor .......

I need to change the channel on a Buffalo Air Station WHR-HP-G wirless router.  The wireless card in one of my laptops quit working so I had to BUY an external USB one.  It works when I use it at certain wifi locations but not at home.  I was TOLD to change the channel.  I have no idea how to do this.  This particular wireless router was purchased in Japan but has worked fine here in Canada.  So, there must be a way I can change the channel and get this laptop to WORK with wireless.  Please help!In a QUICK search it does appear it supports multi channel...
In order to change channels you have to access the router.
This is done by typing the router's address into a BROWSER window...for example mine is 192.168.1.2.....yours may be different...look it up at their website or consult the Owners Manual.
There you will find all the settings for the unit.Is this it?
http://www.buffalo-technology.com/en/airstation-trade-n-technology-150mbps-cable-router.html

I see it supports DD-WRT which is what I use on my D-Link.

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/WHR-HP-G300N

I just RECENTLY got a steerelton STYLUS. There is like a tip point attached too it the only thing that it don't SEEM to fit in the bottom. I took the bottom an top off an can't get it in. There are no INSTRUCTIONS with it thoughWhat do you MEAN? Does it look like this?

Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 08, 2013, 08:38:14 PM

What do you mean? Does it look like this?

This is a gateway laptop with vista home edition. This was booting up and showing the gateway and the option to boot or bios setting and then goes to a black screen with the white arrow . I THOUGHT maybe the hard drive was bad and run the bootable hard drive test. Now  with the cd out of  the system in goes to black screen that read A disk read error occurred. Press ctral+al+del to restart and it goes to the gateway and goes right back to the error message. The vista was preinstalled so I do not have the operating system on the cd . But since I am getting that error message not sure if it will read it even if I have one . I used the system yesterday and it was in working order . Today when I turn on it would let me once in awhile boot to safemode but it would just go in to the black screen. I can get into the bios not sure what is going on .Not sure if it is a total loss or if there is something that can save this laptop. I don't want to loose everything that I have on it but if it has to be  to get this in working condition it  would be better then nothing. I know I should have back up shame on me. newbie with just a small bit of knowledge still learning and help would be greatly appreciated. this is a 64 bit alsoIf you have a friend available with Vista OEM disc, you can perform a repair INSTALLATION and maybe fix this if its not a damaged hard drive. Without a Windows Vista disc or system restore set there is not MUCH that can be done to fix it. If you want access to your data you could always download and burn to a CD or DVD a live distro of Linux such as Ubuntu or Knoppix. And if you knew which files needed to be replaced you could use Linux to fix Windows Vista. You can also use Linux to repair hard drive corruption issues, but you will still need to replace files that were damaged or destroyed by the corruption.

Easiest method is Repair Installation with Windows Vista OEM Disc. You place the Disc into the DVD drive and boot from it, it detects a prior install of Windows and you select from the menu tree to perform a Repair Installation. When the repair installation is over you authenticate your Windows Vista key with Microsoft and perform security updates etc if needed.I remember I do have a Ubuntu cd . it has 4 option
try Ubuntu without any changes to your computer
unstall Ubuntu
chek cd for defects
test memory
boot from first hard drive
or press 4 to select alternative start-up and installation modes the option is
normal
safe graphics mode
use driver update cd
oem install ( for manufactures)
which one should I use I also have a desk top gateway that I have a windows vista operating system disc but it is 32- bit and the lap top is       64 will have issue trying to install that. Since it shows disc read error occurred will it even read that disc. This disc is to re-install operating system. I will use this one of you think it will work.I will only use the Ubuntu for last resort .You cannot use an OEM CD (i.e. Gateway HP Acer etc ) to run a repair install unfortunately.
do you know if a restore boot disk will restore.  you use to be able to go a website and download free a bootable disk. do you know if this is still available or if it would work. I saw on a site abc15.com where a news person said that you could put your hard drive in the freezer for 20 to hour in a bag one of the silver ones and 50 percent of the time the hard drive will come back to life. sometime just enough to get your data off . Anyone try this and found that it worked. Thank you for your help also appreciated.I have heard of this technique, but havent used it yet, however drives fail for all sorts of different reasons and chilling a hard drive may work for a hard drive which warms up and then operates outide of normal operating tolerances to fail.

All drives I have had, failures have been caused by different causes, such as:

-  The head striking the platter and scratching ( such as when my office chair decided to raise itself a few seconds after getting out of it and the arm of the chair slammed the underside of the desk sending a shock wave to the hard drive and causing the clunk of death )

- The drive motor needle bearings after 8 years of use 24/7/365 in a NT4 file server went from the whining noize of the Fast RPM SCSI drives of the time, to what started at about 6 years into its life a cyclic whine harmonic to a loud groan and not able to spin to the correct speed to be read.

- Had an early Maxtor 500GB SATA drive that would run fast and then make a Screetch/PING noise and then go out to lunch for about 30 seconds and then start working again. Sent this one back to warranty replacement.

- A customer brought in a system that the hard drive smoked the controller board in it. They plugged both the SATA power as WELL as the P-connector into an early SATA drive that had optional power input, but of which had a warning in small print never to plug in both that they didnt see.do you think the hard drive is bad for the error message disk error occurred press crtl alt and delete and it goes right back into this screen error message , if I put in a  new hard  drive in the operating system was preinstalled with on this laptop does gateway do you know if they  have a web site that allows you to download with the certificate key or does Microsoft  have a download that I can get. Also ebay has some recovery dvd do they work to recover the systems as they state.I would to recove the data but not thru a recovery company. I will just start over. I do have oem gateway from a desktop if put in a new hard can I install that one.I took the hard drive and put it on a working computer. this show the hard drive in properties is working properly. In my computer when I right click it shows no data . Does mean all the data is gone. I was going to run a disk error check but it says I have to format to use that drive.If you get the system to boot up once again, try and create a recovery CD.

The Gateway site tells how to do this for Vista.

What is Gateway System Recovery?found out my pressing alt f10 when the gateway logo comes up you have the gateway recovery management option to how would you like to restore and it shaded out and not able to access . no option to recover data. It appears the operating system is gone. since this was preinstalled and no cd came with it how to I reinstall vista Like I stated below it shows the harddrive in a working computer but when I right click in my computer it just shows the drive e with no information.I was going to run check disk for errors but it wants me to format before I can use. when I put the hard drive back in the laptop when it boots up the error message disk error   press crtl alt delete to restart. Do I need to take this to the working computer and fomat and restall vista or I have a ubunta and it will load it gives a option to view or install and I choose view just to see what it was all  about .I don't know why it has the error message disk error as I can load from the cd. Just a beginner .THank as always the great information that you all provide for us that don.t know much.

Hi,

It's been on my mind for a while.
Should i buy a sound card?
I am using onboard Intel D946GZAB motherboard, so i wonder if i buy another card, how do i compare it?

Thank you.Why not use the integrated audio that this motherboard already has?I hope to get a better sound quality, however, i'm afraid that i will choose a poor card that worse than my board sound.
That why i need advice on how to start selecting it.First, your need to check the speakers your have. Some really sound like trash and it is not the fault of the sound card.  Maybe you can borrow a SET of speakers from a friend and TRY them on your computer.

Once you know for sure the speakers are good, almost any sound card will give good sound.

But if the problem is the speakers, get new speakers. No sound card can fix cheap speakers.
Here is a list from Wall Mart in the USA.
http://www.walmart.com/cp/PC-Speakers/132902
IMHO, about $40 for good speakers is a fair price. Unless your are deaf. In which case you should use powered headphones.So, any cheap $10 sound card sure better than my onboard card?
I am looking for under $35 good sound card.kuszmania9999, Have you tried other speakers.
What I want to tell you the human ear does not notice the difference in sound cards. An expensive  sound card cots more that a cheap one. The sound is the same.

Let me make a comparison.
A cheap watch is cheap.
A gold watch costs a lot.
They both tell  time better that your can.

Quote

ChipChat Sound Card Technical Specifications
Audio Characteristics

Sampling resolution
    8 and 16 bit (STEREO or monaural)
Sample rate
    4.0kHz - 44.1 kHz
Dynamic range
    16 bits resolution (65535 discrete levels)
Frequence response
    20 Hz - 20 kHz, 3dB
Signal to Noise ratio
    80 dB
Audio In Input Impedance
    30k Ohms
Audio In Input Signal Level
    1.41 VRMS
Microphone Input Impedance
    20K Ohms
Audio Out Drive
    4 Ohms

    Automatic gain for microphone
    ADPCM compression/decompression reduces audio file size on hard disk.

Hi everyone

I relly hope you can resolve an issue for me, i might be going crazy

I am running my PC on vista home premium. I want to partition my C drive ( please see attachment ) Under my computer Cdrive is CLEARLY marked as so. However when i open Disk management i only see drive 0 listed with the same capacity as my C drive.

I want to partition C drive or 0. Then right clicking the drive in disk management there are no options available except HELP. No management options whatsoever.

Can you solve this conundrum for me? Any help/advice greatfuly recieved

Peter

[old attachment deleted by admin]Drive 0 MEANS the first physical HDD...drive 1 would be another physical HDD.
You cannot partition the C: drive under Windows.

What exactly do you want to do with this drive ? ?

More info and we can steer you down the right path.Hi patio

and thanks for your QUICK reply. I simply want to create a second PARTION on this drive for storage of sensative data.  so for example D.


PeterThis is easy.
I'm a moron-level user (that's below totally confused   and I have done this.

First do your housework, clean out the Recycle bin, temp files, etc.
Defrag.
Backup.

Download BurnCDCC from here :
http://www.snapfiles.com/get/burncdcc.html
Place it where you can quickly access it.

Download GParted from here :
http://gparted.sourceforge.net/livecd.php
Leave it unopened on your desktop.
Open BurnCDCC and tell it to burn GParted.

A few minutes later you will have a very effective Partitioning Utility that is bootable.

With Vista running, open the CD tray and insert GParted.
Shut down and reboot.
GParted will start and hold your hand through the partitioning process.
Leave plenty of headroom for Vista and you won't have any problems.

My system's CMOS BATTERY is not WORKING.  and i have CHANGED it 3 times regularly. but new Battery only works for 2-3 days and same problem arrises,, CMOS FAILURE - DEFAULT LOADED.... what should i do please HELP me ..i dont have much knowledge about computer Hardware.Sounds like you have motherboard problem draining the battery. 

Alan <><  Quote from: ale52 on April 02, 2007, 08:27:26 AM

Sounds like you have motherboard problem draining the battery. 

Alan <>< 

So my original problem was that my computer crashed, I was GETTING an error message, and I could boot completely.  I took the LAPTOP to our tech guys and they said - get a laptop hard drive ENCLOSURE, a new hard drive and copy the files over.  So now at least I have a computer that is working...... but for some reason the one file from the old hard drive that I have tried to access - the file (Paul's Computer - which had all my documents and music) is inaccessible - I can't open it.... this is probably a software issue i.e. I must be logged into my account to access these files, but there has to be some way to get to them???/Please see responses to your other topic. Only one post is needed per problem. Thanks.

If the videocard is integrated and quit WORKING, can you put another one in or do you have to replace the whole motherboard? I like to play simulation games, what should I invest in? Welcome to the forum,
(I can honestly say I've not heard of anyone replacing an integrated video chip*)

Some PCs have an integrated video chip. That is, the video chip is built into the PC's motherboard, as opposed to a chip built into a video card that is installed in a PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) slot or AGP (Accelerated Graphics PORT) slot on the PC's motherboard. A video chip (sometimes called a GPU [graphics processing unit]) is like an extra CPU built into a video card that is dedicated to processing video data. The advantage of an integrated video chip is that it lowers the cost of the system. The disadvantage is the quality of an integrated video chip is typically not as good as that of a video card with a chip built into it. Also, integrated video chips have to share system memory with the PC's CPU. This can hurt your system's performance, especially when you are running a graphics-intensive application.

I'm pretty sure you'd be better off just getting another mobo or a video card if you have a PCI- / AGP slot/ port available - ...  (PCI-E) is the  best situation....
Why don't you POST what you have for a system and we
can start from from there first.....................Good explanation honvetops.
Also, look here for some more information on graphics cards.
If you want to play games, you're better off buying a dedicated card rather than sticking with integrated graphics, which aren't meant for gaming.
Also consider why your onboard graphics failed, if you do not resolve this then perhaps something else COULD fail in the near future.
As honvetops said, more info on your current system and we can advise you further.

well i did it but it only made the picture quality worse. i had to go back and tweak the settings just right to maintain what little view i have. ty tho...i think it might be my video card or something and i should get it repaired which i will in a couple days...or maybe just BUY a new monitor if that is indeed the PROBLEM. ty for the replys tho.Since you tried another monitor with same results, and video card drivers were updated with no change, it looks like video card itself is shot. Quote from: Broni on May 31, 2008, 10:06:27 AM

Since you tried another monitor with same results, and video card drivers were updated with no change, it looks like video card itself is shot.

this will be vague, as I am basing it on what my mother told me over the phone.  She thought her COMPUTER had been left on, so she hit the switch in the back of the computer to turn it off.  I have no idea what switch it was, but I assume there is only one, and it is a zt desktop computer.  Several hours later, she flipped it again to turn it on, and the computer said there was an error from an improper shutdown.  She started it is safe mode, and after a couple hours, it said something like "system restored to 5/28/08"  but that is all, the screen just went blank after that.  She tried powering it down and restarting, and she gets the same error message.  She started it in safe mode again, and the screen goes blue, which I assume means that windows is starting up, but that is it, just a blue screen with a cursor and nothing else.  Any IDEAS as to what to do?  I know this is not much to go on, but I have never seen the computer, so if you have a zt maybe you can figure out what switch she hit and what she did to the computer.IF it's a desktop computer, she may've turned off the on/off switch which governs most power supply units (PSU's). 

This should not have been a big deal.  Windows should've been able to recover from an improper shutdown.  I'm not saying that's the way you want to power down all the time, but it seems like the odds were against her on this one.ok, this was not the power button on the front of the tower, this was a switch on the back.  Apparently, it said I and O and she flipped it and then flipped it back(which one should it be on?).  We try starting windows in safe mode and we just get a blue screen with an arrow.  Nothing seems to work, any more ideas?
  Yes, that's the one I mean.  The graphic is I and 0, but it's meant to be like a 1 (for "on") and 0 (for "off).  If it's off, it cuts power from the power supply to the rest of the computer, so it must be on for the computer to run. 

Don't FEEL bad for asking.  I once "fixed" someone's computer by showing them this switch.  The system wouldn't turn on with the front panel button, because someone accidentally turned off the power supply.thanks,
   so if that is just the power button, then why is the screen just going blue?  is it "fried?"I wonder if Windows "corrupted" itself when the power got turned off accidentally?  I'm surprised the system restore didn't work, but I've known from others that system restore isn't always a guarantee to work.Try and get in front of that machine or have her sign up so we can diagnose further.
It sounds like it's stuck in the improper shutdown loop...
One thing that may work is to unplig the PSU from the power source.
Flip that switch back and forth a few times and do the same with the front panel switch.
Put the back SIDE (PSU ) switch in the down or -O- position and plug it in.
Flip the switch to the -I- position and see if it boots properly...ok, I got in front of the computer.  I did what you said about flipping the switch and unplugging it.  The computer goes to the "improper shutdown, start in safe mode, options, etc" screen.  I hit 1 to start in safe mode.  Then, the computer starts loading drivers, and gets to one that says something like crcdisk.(something) and then the screen just goes black.  It is not going blue and it is not in Windows, it is just black with an arrow on the screen, that does move with the mouse.
    Any ideas?  Maybe boot with the xp disk and do a repair of windows?

I have a Dell INSPIRON 5150 laptop computer with Windows XP.

The sound on my computer just will not play. This HAPPENED when I was watching a movie on my computer. I had the HEADPHONES in my ear and was under a blanket. A few minutes into watching the movie, my computer made like, a pop noise, and my headphones had shocked my ear. I'm thinking maybe the fabric on the blanket was too static-y for the headphones.

After that, that's when I noticed the sound on my computer was gone.

=(

Help !!I've seen this happen to people before. The static shock most likely shorted and ruined the sound card.

Since it's a laptop, there's no way to test the sound card in another system UNLESS it's a laptop with an identical sound card.

1. Send it in if it's under warranty

Or

2. Talk to Dell about getting a NEW sound card 

Oh dear ....


well thanks for the help !!

 hmmm ... just a quick question.

How much does the average sound card cost? For a desktop PC, anywhere from $10 to several hundred. But those aren't compatible with a laptop.i have a problem on my microphone, it keep saying that another program is using itPlease start another topic, Ec.

How long can you leave your monitor on before it burns the images on to it?  Its not a LCD monitor an I dont want it too.  My mom thinks that the monitor never needs shut off an some times I dont know how long its on.i dont know how long it takes for an image to leave a burn in, but doesnt her computer have a screensaver?I've never heard LCD monitors should be susceptible to burn-ins. Isn't that something that only affects plasma screens and really old CRT screens?
But if you want to on the safe side do as Homer suggested and get a screen saver or let Windows put the monitor in standby after X minutes.It is a CRT but I dont think she does it that often any more.  It came with the dell dimension 4100 so I dont know if it would burn images on as quickly.We have an old CRT monitor at my SCHOOL for the printer. The image of the printing software is burned into the monitor, but it's on that screen 24/7. Quote from: Deerpark on March 30, 2008, 05:54:01 AM

I've never heard LCD monitors should be susceptible to burn-ins. Isn't that something that only affects plasma screens and really old CRT screens?

Thats interesting, I try to keep them turned off when ever I can even if I'm doing stuff. 

My mouse fails to work half the time. I can't click the user to log on to when I get to the login screen (Windows XP), my computer freezes on startup until I hit something on my keyboard, I can't drag and drop, and lastly, whenever I open a program, it freezes and I can't click anything on it until I hit alt+tab or something.

- Not my mouse because I tried multiple mouses.
- Not my usb PORTS because I tried different ports (unless they ALL died)...
- Not a virus because it didn't work before AND after reformatting.

So maybe sometime is dying on my desktop? It is a couple years old...

Clik Here...

Include INFO on WHETHER these were USB or PS2 mice or a combination of the 2...Dell Inspiron 9100
Pent D 2.4ghz
1gb Ram
Windows XP Home
USB Logitech G5 Mouse

No unconfigured devices, no PS/2 port, USB ports work with other devices, updating chipset and re-inserting the CMOS battery doesn't work =(Does it boot up and run ok in safe mode?

Have you done the following: checked for spyware, viruses/Deleted Temp files, cookies/ defrag harddrive, checked for bad sectors?

When did you format the hard drive and how old is this drive? Is it SATA or IDE?It runs fine without safe mode, it freezes but after random keyboard presses, it unfreezes, but I still cannot click anything.

Definately nothing wrong in terms of software because I completely formmated the partition and then put XP on it. Checked for bad sectors but nothing.

I think it's SATA.
Quote from: Giga on May 25, 2008, 06:14:57 PM

It runs fine without safe mode, it freezes but after random keyboard presses, it unfreezes, but I still cannot click anything.

Definitely nothing wrong in terms of software because I completely formmated the partition and then put XP on it. Checked for bad sectors but nothing.

As of right now, nothing besides the USB mouse and wireless adapter is plugged in...and of course the keyboard. There are no PS/2 ports.

As of right now, nothing besides the USB mouse and wireless adapter is plugged in...and of course the keyboard. There are no PS/2 ports.

Yeah Dell have gotten into this fustrating habit of cutting stuff out of their motherboards, like a Dell machine I got I sent back as it did not have a LPT port for my beloved printer, instead coming with a whopping 10 USB ports (8 rear, 2 front)

Anyway I noticed you said "Wireless Adapter" that just spells trouble. Check the batteries in your mouse and move the receiver to a different port.

Though you did say you tried many mice, did they all happen to be wireless?

Kurtis

My hp pavilion (ze4500) notebook stopped working, so I deduced from examining it that it was probably the hard disk drive that went out. I ordered the suggested spare P/N 319414-001 and installed it. It wont complete the installation because it says "Did not find any hard disk drives installed in your computer, etc.. blah blah...," and I am trying hard to get it recognized. It wont read the recovery CDs until it see the hard drive, so you can see my problem.  After reading some similar problems on the INTERNET, I went into the BIOS and changed the internal hard drive from "Auto" to a few different options, but eventually I changed it back to "Auto" because I extended my options because none of the changes made it work.  I read that you can do something on a floppy to boot it, but I dont have a floppy drives, just a CD drive. I just really don't know what to do. I miss my computer! Please help! 
Did you recieve a bootable CD with that new hard drive ? ?
If not you will have to make one.
DLoad the diagnostics from the HDD manuf. site and follow the instructions for creating a bootable floppy/CD.
Then use the program to partition and format the drive.

Some drives even new are shipped unformatted. Once it's formatted it should be recognised and you should be good to go... Quote from: Roxy on May 23, 2008, 12:30:08 PM

notebook stopped working, so I deduced from examining it that it was probably the hard disk drive that went out

"Current operating systems, including Windows Vista, XP and 2000, and Mac OS X, already include pre-installed drivers for the hard disk drive itself. No additional drivers are required."

Hi all. I have a Packard Bell PC bought in 2003 and an old Ntrust CRT monitor with an 11 inch wide screen and i wish to run the monitor from the PC.I had them working when my old monitor packed in, but accidentally ruined the settings.When I try to run them now, all I get on the monitor after the PC boots up is a horizontal line of 5 TINY packard bell home pages. If its any use I have a new PC and monitor also.Thanks in advance. 1.  What operating system (and service pack level) are you booting on that Packard Bell PC?

2.  Does the monitor display correctly during Power On Self Test (POST)?

Its on Windows XP. I have no idea what service pack level it is on, but it was last used about 7 months ago.As for the second question I have no idea what a Power On Self Test is.When I switch it on it displays the normal screen "Start Windows Normally" etc and then the blue Windows screen.When I previously configured the monitor to the PC I still had a coverplan with PC World and eventually found someone who knew what he was talking about and he told me how to do it. However when I asked them a couple of months ago a simple question they said I had no coverplan.I then asked them why I was being debited £9.99 a month and they FINALLY admitted it after I spent loads of money on trying to convince them.So naturally I told them to stick their coverplan where the sun doesn't shine, and can't ask them.Try booting onto safemode by tapping F8 rapidly at power up and change the video settings there.
If it's that old use conservative settings like 640 X 480...Thanks I'll try that.I tried tapping F5 repeatedly and when I attempted to do something similar to what you suggest it asked for my "ADMINISTRATOR Password". I have no idea what that is - I am sorry if I sound ignorant , but I am just an ordinary guy who struggles to understand computers.At the suggestion of someone on a (non PC related) SITE I plugged my new monitor into the old PC and it said (quote) "Mode Not Supported H:92.4 KHZ  V:52.1 HZ"0.  I believe you can try the following suggestions with either the Old CRT or new LCD monitor, but I would start with the Old CRT.

1.  Windows Advanced Options Menu.  Tap the F8 key about once per second or faster as you power up the system.  I'm expecting the following menu to appear:

    o  Safe Mode
    o  Safe Mode with Networking
    o  Safe Mode with Command Prompt
    o  Enable VGA Mode
    o  Last Known Good Configuration
    o  Debugging Mode
    o  Enable Boot Logging
    o  Starts Windows Normally
    o  Reboot
    o  Return to OS Choices Menu

2.  Last Known Good Configuration.  Selecting this item will load the registry settings for your last successful login.  Not sure if your previous logins to an unsupported display mode count as success.  Give it a try.  You can use your normal user account with this option.

3.  Safe Mode.  Per patio's suggestion, try to boot into Safe Mode.  You indicated previously that you were STOPPED by a request for the "Administrator" password.  If this is Windows XP Home Edition, it may be "blank", as in never set.  Try continuing without entering a password.

If no joy, press CTRL-ALT-DEL to see if a login windows appears that permits you to enter your own username and password.  I don't think this is an option but give it a try.

If this is a Windows XP Professional system, try both of the above suggestions.

If you can't get past the password request, Safe Mode may be closed to you.

4.  Enable VGA Mode.   You can use your normal user account with this mode.

5.  If you successfully login with a display you can use, reset the display properties (screen resolution, color depth, refresh rate) to conservative values and reboot normally.  Conservative values might be:
    o  Screen resolution -  800 x 600,  640 x 400
    o  Color depth          -  High Color (16-bits),  256 colors (8-bits), 16 bits
    o  Refresh Rate        -  ~60 Hz  for adapter/monitor/both???

If new settings work for normal boot, you can reset them to the optimal values for your monitor/adapter if you can figure out what that is. Quote from: lewisner on May 12, 2008, 02:52:21 PM

Thanks I'll try that.I tried tapping F5 repeatedly and when I attempted to do something similar to what you suggest it asked for my "Administrator Password". I have no idea what that is - I am sorry if I sound ignorant , but I am just an ordinary guy who struggles to understand computers.At the suggestion of someone on a (non PC related) site I plugged my new monitor into the old PC and it said (quote) "Mode Not Supported H:92.4 KHZ  V:52.1 HZ"

I get a small warning panel "Project 1 Runtime Path Error 76"

Hello I need some help please. I turn on the power for my computer and I can hear EVERYTHING running, the fans turn on, the hd is spinning, the psu is on. However it doesn't seem to load anything or do anything beyond powering up.  When I turn it on I can also hear a faint "beep-beep beep-beep" but I no longer heard it when I unplugged my cd rom drives.  I'd tried to reseat everything with no success.  Im using an ASUS p5n32 sli motherboard, seagate barracuda hd, and an intel core 2 duo e6400 processor. I just replaced the psu about a week an a half ago but everything was running smoothly (no crashes, no blue screens, no warnings) up until LAST night when my computer froze while I was using it. It was on for about 15 minutes. It hasn't worked since then.  I also read on the forums that it might be a problem with the vid card but my moniter seems to be getting a signal from it and I can feel the heatsink on it getting a bit warm to the touch when I have the computer powered on.  Please help me if you can.Try the video card in another machine if possible.  The way your describing it, it sounds like this mite be it.ive just installed the graphics card onto a dell dimesion 9200 and it works perfectly fine. i dont think its a problem of the graphics not functioning. my own unusual method of knowing if my computer is booting properly is when i usually power up the computer, my cpu fan makes a loud noise from the power running through it. after a few seconds i'm guessing bios kicks in and turns the settings lower so the fan spins slower and stops making the loud noise. unfortunately bios (or whatever it is controlling it) NEVER kicks in and my computer never starts up.That board uses an Award BIOS. The beep codes for it are:

1 SHORT beep: Normal
2 short beeps: CMOS error
1 long and 1 short beep: DRAM error
1 long and 2 short beeps: Video card error
1 long and 3 short beeps: Keyboard error, or video card error
1 long and 9 short beeps: ROM error
Long continuous beeps: DRAM not installed correctly, bad memory, or incompatable
Short continuous beeps: Bad power supply

Listen again and see which it best represents.According to what you said it seems to be the psu.

I'm building a new gaming computer. I have a abit Ix38 gt board a 6700 quad core Intel, 4 GB of 1066 g skill ram, and 2 3870 ice Q 3 3870 ATI graphics cards running in a koolance water cooled case. My question is this I'm going to be running windows Vista, I just picked up a ssd sandisk 5000 2.5 inch 32 GB hard drive what kind of adapters do need to hook this thing to my mobo I know that it uses sata.The ssd is normally used for a laptop. I'm going to use this for my OS system and I have a 200 GB for storage and a 300 GB external for storage. any help would be apprecited.

2.5" to IDE CONNECTOR...i haven't seen one for SATA but they should also be available...
You may be cramping that Vista INSTALL on to a 32G drive though.
If it is in fact a SATA drive no extra connector should be neccessary....

If you can using your PC go to majorgeeks.com[ google] & then scrool to system info, look for BELARC in system info. Download your info this will tell you everything you need to know> motherboard cpu ect. With that info you will be able to find another CPU. Sites to look for it  NEWEGG- TIGERDIRECT or last resort EBAY. Hope this helps you ?What you broke off what part of the L3 cache. I'd consider purchasing a new processor.

I've never HEARD of anyone breaking a piece of that off or what would happen if you used a processor that was broken in that manner, but I can't imagine the result would be good.If you mean these little things that you can see 12 of in this picture, they are not "CHIPS", they are surface mount resistors and capacitors, and they are for power supply smoothing, and also for terminating the bus in multiprocessor systems. (simple explanation - you need them in a system with 2 or more cpus.)

Since you only have 1 cpu socket on your motherboard, there is no possibility that you will ever need them.

Also, if the CPU was damaged, the system would not boot up and run. It may be that if you had a lower quality PSU than the one you do have, you might notice some instability.


Dias de verano, thank-you very MUCH for the info. That is exactly what broke off. I suppose I'll just continue to run my system and if I notice any instability I will then decide to invest in a new cpu. Personally I don't think you need to worry.


Quote from: quaxo on June 02, 2008, 09:30:19 AM

What you broke off what part of the L3 cache. I'd consider purchasing a new processor.

I am using a 780i SLI motherboard, e eforce 6200le video card, Intel core 2 extreme 9650 processor corsair memory and a 500W power supply. When I boot the system for the first time I can get to the BOIS setup and then power dies everyewhere but the mother board (i still see the mother board LEDS are on). I have replaced the mother board already so this is not the problem. Could this be the power supply? Please help...It could be...
It could also be shutting down from overheating to protect itself...
Did you apply Thermal Paste when assembling the CPU/heatsink COMBO ? ?

Important Instructions

It could also be the board shorting out...did you use all the MBoard standoffs when assembling the MBoard into the case ? ?

Have you done this before ? ?yes all the MOBO standoffs are in place and thermal paste was APPLIED when the CPU was put in place. IT will only power on for 10 or 15 seconds. I get a floppy disk fail...but can continue to the BOIS screen setup...This is my first PC build. I have several freinds that have built PC's before. They are stumped as well.do you have a floppy PLUGGED in? If so unplug it and see what happensI have a DVD RW installed. I UNPLUGGED it and it is powered on....over a minute now...looks like this resolves the problem...but now no DVD...Could the PSU be to small (500w)opps spoke to soon...power dies againLeave the DVD unhooked for now.
Borrow a known good PSU from one of your friends of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see what happens...
What brand was this PSU ?
I hope it wasn't a twenty dollar special...

And Congrats on your first build...don't sweat it we'll get you there.PSU came with the Chasis. ANTEC...Chasis was over over $150. I will purchase a better PSU today and swap it out. I am also going to swap out the CPU fan (this was a $20 special). Appreciate all the help. Thanks!This is why i suggest borrowing a PSU first...if it's not the problem you have spent money for nothing...
There are other things that can cause this symptom as well.

i have never heard of buying a dual core cpu insted of a qaud core for the life span lol.
but there is a slight HEAT differnece in the two.
the price of a good quad core cpucompared to dual core there is a difference.
dual cores are generally cheaper^ what he said.
Those temps look fine Rob, but run a stress test as well to test stability.yeah i suppose....
I don't do stress testing because I spend most of my time on my pc.... I do  however play games and they're pretty good stress testers. Seems It can only go about 3.45 GHz without absolutely no crashing.... currently testing 3.6A while back, when I followed overclocking more closely, it seemed certain chips had a higher tolerance for overclocking.  My understanding was that they were engineered to higher specifications (to some extent) but labelled/sold at certain settings.

Could it just be that this chip was engineered with "tighter" tolerances, and there's not enough "WIGGLE" room to overclock?Aegis: I'd say there's a lot of "wiggle room" personally, that's almost a 1GHZ overclock stable there.  the chip's bigger brothers do tend to clock better due to the higher MULTIPLIER, which MEANS the FSB doesn't need to go as high, meaning less voltage and RAM speed adjustments.  it is partly the luck of the draw though, some chips despite being the same stepping and core will just not clock well whilst others do very well indeed.

Rob - if you overclock, I strongly recommend you stress test.  Any instability could lead to corrupted data and random crashes, and you'll never know if it's your OC that's the problem if you don't stress test.  You must sleep sometime . . . run Orthos on Blend then, if it's stable for a few hours I'd say you're good to rock.  The longer the better though and most recommend 12 hours.Agreed, Calum:  I just looked up the processor, which is rated at 2.66 Ghz.  That is a lot of wiggle, and I'd be quite pleased if it sustained that speed in a stable manner!yeah i suppose.... I'm afraid that something would go wrong though?
I could have it running in the day?
Also on another note, I ran bioshock on highest settings for 2 hours and cpu only reached max of 45C! You need a true CPU stress test, games don't tend to stress the CPU all that much any more.
I doubt anything would go wrong, if it does the PC will shut down to avoid damage which would tell you somehting in itself.

Hello all I am brand new here to these forums and looking for some good insight. I have just finshed my A+ training but unfortunately there is alot of details that were left out or not explained very well.

I know the EFFECTIVE FSB is going to be the base SYSTEM clock X 4 (quad-pumped) in an intel processor P4 and above.

So if that means that the FSB can handle 4 data signals per clock cycle, I am trying to under stand how the data is flowing.

In a 32-BIT system does that mean 32-bits of data are SENT 4 separate times during a clock cycle? I understand 32-bits is going to be the bandwith of the bus, but I just can't seem to get it straight.

I know that when data is sent through its really just electrons MOVING through circuits. But when a data signal is sent is it only going to be 32-bits wide or is the amount of data the signal is carrying only 32-bits? For example, 1 lane in my PCI express can move 250MB/s. Is that 250MB/s broken up into 32 bit increments and sent until all of it has gone?

Also another question I have is with memory addressing. A CPU will read from or write to memory addresses. In a 32-bit system, I understand each memory address is 32-bits wide? and if you do 2 to the power of 32 you get that 4billion+ number. So is that 4 billion+ different addresses?

Please help anyone! I will be eternally grateful!

I'm using Microsoft's XP and have used all of my hard drive letters.  Can I combine two or more of my external USB hard drives into 1 virtual drive that XP will recognize as only 1 very large drive.  I know I should probably switch to a server, but I have SLOWLY acquired 28 hard drives of DIFFERENT sizes ( 250 GB to 1 TB) over the years as I accumulated more and more data for my job.  The way I use them now is to switch them in and out as I NEED the data.Instead of assigning drive letters to disk volumes you could mount some of them onto empty directories in an existing NTFS file system.  This would free up drive letters for other uses. 

Reference How to create and use NTFS mounted drives in Windows XP and in Windows Server 2003Thanks, this solution is much simpler then I thought it would be, and works great

I acquired a new computer and hoped to move the operating system from my old computer over to it painlessly by creating an image of the old system's hard disk drive and copying it to the new system's hard disk drive using Norton Ghost.

It should have been easy. I hoped to fit the new drive into the old computer as a slave, copy over the image to it and then refit it into the new computer.

Problem: The new computer C: drive is a SATA while the other three (two in the old computer and the slave in the new ONE are all IDE). This meant I could not hook up the new SATA drive with the old computer since there was no suitable interface to accept it.

Bright idea: If I fitted the old system HDD into the slave position of the new computer, I could create an image there and copy it over onto the SATA drive. But Ghost refused to copy from drive D: to drive C:. It insisted on the copy direction being from drive C: to drive D: (or any other drive as long as it wasn't C:).

All right, then. Bright idea #2. with the new SATA drive still in the new computer as drive C: and the HDD I wanted to clone onto it hooked up as a slave and defined as drive D:, I just needed to enter the BIOS and rearrange the priority setting so that the system booted up from drive D:, the HDD from the old computer.

Although the BIOS happily accepted the new priority settings, it still insisted on booting from the SATA drive and only the SATA drive.

I tried every wheeze and scheme I could think of but nothing I did would get the new computer to BOOT from anywhere other than the SATA HDD. And that includes a Windows XP system CD. If I disconnect the SATA drive, drive C:, the operating system goes in the huff and refuses to boot, even when the slave drive sits there with a perfectly good copy of Windows XP on it.

Both computers are running Windows XP: the old computer is on the Home edition while the new one is running Professional.

I do not want to go through the pain of reinstalling all my software, drivers, internet setup et all. So, can anyone tell me what I can do?This one keeps coming up. You cannot copy a Windows installation from one computer to a different one. It won't work. Whether you take the disk out of one PC and put it in another, or whether you use Ghost, it won't work. You need to install Windows afresh on your new computer. That's it.
Quote from: Dias de verano on June 02, 2008, 10:55:54 AM

TThis one keeps coming up. You cannot copy a Windows installation from one computer to a different one. It won't work. Whether you take the disk out of one PC and put it in another, or whether you use Ghost, it won't work. You need to install Windows afresh on your new computer. That's it.

So when you hear people talking about "ghosting" a drive, they're probably using the utility (or similar software) to image files and / or data -- not operating systems.

I've used Ghost as a backup, and actually restored the operating system and all files to a drive

but it was the same drive in the same computer.

I was trying to avoid the hassle of having to reload Windows 2000.)  In that case, Ghost restored everything with no problems.

Another thing that Ghost is used for: say you run a company and have a few, or dozens or hundreds of identical computers, you can set one up just right, with a corporate (no activation) version of Windows, make a Ghost image of the OS disk, burn it to DVD-ROMs, and deploy it to as many PCs as you have Windows licences for.

When i closed down a game down with task manager the game closed down and my screen went to bright high RESOLUTION how can i put it back to how it was...or how can i put it into default

Im using Windows Xpright click on your desktop and select properties the click on the settings tab and that will take you where you can set your resolution and as for the bright ness i'm not sure but you can try to adjust on your monitor see if that helps Is this a laptop or a desktop?

If it's a laptop, there should be a keyboard shortcut to change the brightness of the screen.

On both the Desktop and Laptop, you should be able change it via your Video Card settings.
There should be an option to do this when you right click your desktop.


If not, you should be able to find it in Control Panel.If the problem is really serious, you can reset the screen by tapping F8 whilst the computer is starting up (if the windows logo pops up, you have WAITED too long, WAIT until the system has FULLY booted up and restart it) and when the 'Advanced Startup Options' (or something like that) screen comes up, select 'Enable VGA mode' or some option related to that. This should reset the screen to the factory settings. Also, the graphics options BUTTON when right clicking on the desktop only counts for the Intel- related GPUs

Quote from: Frankie on June 03, 2008, 09:05:14 AM

Quote from: squall_01 on June 02, 2008, 11:46:57 AM

Cant see the pic.

Sorry, but the made me laugh for so long, it actually hurt. Please tell me you had you're magnify glass out before Patio said left CLICK. 

I went to try to burn a movie to DVD using Movie Maker. I tried it three days nothing, but an error popes up and said error. The files import fine into Window Movie maker. I never had this problem before. I'm using DVD-R I've USED this type before and it worked. My computer info is in the signature box. All i know about the Drive is that is has LIGHTSCRIBE and its writes DVDs and Cd's. Any ideas why its not BURNING?  have you tried burning your movie with another program such as nero?

is it just this movie? do others burn ok?

have you ever been able to burn this movie or others with your current dvd drive?Its just this movie. I don't know this is the problem. I was working on another computer with window movie maker. On that computer you could only save it as a
Cd. So i did. Then i went to import the movie into movie maker on my computer. I tried to DIRECTLY burn it but it wouldn't WORK. Could this be the problem? No i haven't tried any other software for burning movies.Sounds like they're getting pretty good at their copy protection schemes to me...
DRM is a runaway train ! !is there anything i can do?

Aegis, Actually the NEED to apologize is mine. I SEE whereas i wanted to direct my QUESTIONS (for clarification) to the ORIGINATOR of the thread =chrissai, i actually by mistake directed it to you.sorry about that. Hopefully chrissai will respond. truenorth

Dear Users
Should I enable the Hyper threading Technology from BIOS I have Intel Core2 DUO Processor 3.0GHz 1333FSb or not
Thanks Intel says, it's good:
HTTP://www.intel.com/technology/platform-technology/hyper-threading/index.htm
Some users are not so SURE:
http://news.cnet.com/Does-hyperthreading-hurt-server-performance/2100-1006_3-5965435.html
Other users like it:
http://www.newmobilecomputing.com/story/3023/Exploring_the_Use_of_HyperThreading_Technology_for_Multimedia_Apps/page4/ Quote from: extreme on JUNE 04, 2008, 03:44:21 AM

Dear Users
Should I enable the Hyper threading Technology from Bios I have Intel Core2 Duo Processor 3.0GHz 1333FSb or not
Thanks

I have a Dell Dimension B110. I didn't know how much computers have changed until I wanted to upgrade my parts. I am looking to BUY the ATI 2400 HD Pro PCI at newegg for about 70 bucks. My current graphics card uses the INTEL Extreme 2 integrated graphics that uses 64MB of system memory.

My computer specs
Windows XP - real
Intel Celeron D 2.53 GHz
1 GB ram
Only PCI slots
2 80 GB HARD Drives


I would like the ATI 2400HD to play HD on my HDTV and also get better performance. I'm not much of a gamer but I do plan on video editing in the future. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've looked into buying a motherboard, new cpu, etc but it seems overwhelming. I'm not looking to buy a new computer, but would like to know if this setup will last. Quote from: freshforce on June 04, 2008, 10:54:22 AM

Windows XP - real

Almost any graphics card will beat integrated graphics.

I've purchased my item ...

I use McAfee.

No it will make it look better but other then that it wont help process the info.

I have a Dell Dimension B110. I didn't know how much computers have changed until I wanted to upgrade my parts. I am looking to buy the ATI 2400 HD Pro PCI at newegg for about 70 bucks. My current graphics card uses the Intel Extreme 2 integrated graphics that uses 64MB of system memory.

My computer specs
Windows XP - real
Intel Celeron D 2.53 GHz
1 GB ram
Only PCI slots
2 80 GB Hard Drives


I would like the ATI 2400HD to play HD on my HDTV and also get better performance. I'm not much of a gamer but I do plan on video editing in the future. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've looked into buying a motherboard, new cpu, etc but it seems overwhelming. I'm not looking to buy a new computer, but would like to know if this setup will last.

Hi, whenever I try and start my computer, it starts up normally except for one thing. The monitor seems to not be getting a signal, it displays nothing other than the monitor self test, monitor is working -- yada yada yada. I have tried several things to resolve the PROBLEM such as switching out MONITORS, monitor cables, motherboard, and the gfx card. I called the manufacturer about the issue and they suggested that it was the motherboard proposing such issues. The system is only six months old and has had power supply problems in the past. Could it be that the PSU is simply not supplying enough power to the system? It's a Velocity Micro, operating on Windows Vista Ultimate 32bit. I'm not toooooo great with computers, so any help would be awesome.I'd replace the power supply with a BETTER name brand power supply and one that is at least 350watts minimum if a regular system, and 500Watts minimum of your using it with a powerful video card for games, and 650Watts or more if you are running SLI video card pair. Video cards are power hungry!!!

A power supply is the worst component to skimp out on, since it can BLOW parts if under rated and fails, or an el-cheapo brand that has abnormal voltage SWINGS to over voltage  and under voltage parts to cause all sorts of stuff to go wrong.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130317

That is the video card that is in my computer. What amount of watts would you suggest for this card? Could you possibly suggest a sepcific PSU, considering reliability and it's overall performance?

I appreciate your help and anymore you can offer in the future  how big is your psu now? I just found out that for that card i would have at least 400-500 watt psu that's just the minimum.On the PSU it says that it's "peak wattage" is 550w. By looking closer at the unit im beginning to think that it's simply the quality of the part. Quote from: Iroxxiga on June 04, 2008, 04:46:17 PM

On the PSU it says that it's "peak wattage" is 550w. By looking closer at the unit im beginning to think that it's simply the quality of the part.

Right to start off with my aim is to BUILD a powerful pc that doesn't sound like a space shuttle taking off.

I love the look of this heatsink (matches the copper heat pipe on the mobo) but will it be good ENOUGH?

CPU: AMD Phenom 9500
Heatsink: Nexus XiR-3500 Copper edition

http://www.nexustek.nl/NXS-XiR-2300_Xir-3500_silent-CPU-Cooler.htmGood choice but make sure it doesnt interfear with any add on cards? You must think about other things when you put together the system like the power supply,matching the motherboard with the correct CPU ,case cooling FANS ectShouldn't do, the systems already been made, but this was a cut back originaly. (I sound like a business talking like that)

Why don't all manufactures list a cooling capacity of some sort so that its easy to tell if a Heat sink will MEET your requirments?i recommend the thermaltake ultra 120 extreme. it has been the top contender for CPU cooling for quite sometime. also, you have the ability to place ANY 120mm fan on it contrary to the nexus XiR 2300 and 3500 design.Cool does it come in copper? Or in the UK?no it does not come in copper and i see no reason why it shouldnt ship to the UK. Quote from: Accessless on June 03, 2008, 04:27:44 PM

Right to start off with my aim is to build a powerful pc that doesn't sound like a space shuttle taking off.

I love the look of this heatsink (matches the copper heat pipe on the mobo) but will it be good enough?

CPU: AMD Phenom 9500
Heatsink: Nexus XiR-3500 Copper edition

http://www.nexustek.nl/NXS-XiR-2300_Xir-3500_silent-CPU-Cooler.htm

Hi, I have an AMD4600+, 2gb RAM, Vista 32bit. My DVD burner will not show the contents of inserted disks. There is no Autoplay, even though I have set all the Autoplay options correctly. Comes up with  "Burn a Disc: Prepare this blank disc" This window appears with DVD movies and AVI movies or MP3 CDs etc. The only way I can see the contents is to open it with a program like Nero. I thought my previous Pioneer 16x Dual layer was faulty and bought a new 20x LG but there it made no difference.
I have uninstalled the drivers, the computer re-installed them but again no change.
Any ideas

Thanks, Beejay13



[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]beejay, more info is required.Will it read and play anything? IE;Cd's? Given that it appears that this unit is a replacement for something that was in before are the cable positions and the jumper PIN connects appropriate? were the problems you are experiencing with the current unit the same problems you were having with the original one?Are the disks your trying to play commercial or not? What is the software that came with the current unit? Is it Nero or is that what was there from the previous hardware?Can you view any streaming video from a web source on that computer?What does your DEVICE manager say about the state of the DVD unit? Have you contacted (preferably by phone) the manufacturer of the DVD unit for their help?truenorthHi TrueNorth.
Thanks for the prompt reply .
1. Yes, both the old and new burner can read and play and burn if you are in a program such as Nero, Audiograbber, Media Player or DVDfab. Windows Vista (!) will not show the contents with Autorun or by double clicking on the DVD burner in Computer - just comes up with the format message I attached.
2. They, the Pioneer and the LG, are both SATA drives so jumper pins do not apply.
3. I can play both commercial DVDs and avi/divx/xvid movies with Media Player
4. Yes, exactly the same problem with both.
5. I did not install any drivers from disc, Vista recognised and installed drivers.
6. Yes online streaming works fine. Plus I have movies saved on the HDD, Media Player plays them no problems.
7. Device Manager declares everything is fine and dandy.
8. Disk Management in Administrative Tools (and Computer) just shows the disc name and how much space is used.

Thanks again, beejay13This link may help------>GoHereHi Street1,

Addition to my previous message:

I have just been trying other ideas. I put a disc that I did not mind having "prepared" and went into the "Prepare a disc" sequence. In the Formatting Options there are two alternatives "Live FILE System" and "Mastered" but the "Mastered" is greyed out, (see attachment) is this significant? Also should I change from the default UDF 2.01 to the 2.5 as I am using Vista?

Thanks again, Beejay13

[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]Hi Street!.

I am still unsure about posting messages here. I thought that once posted it would appear on the forum and stay but it seems that I can edit it and the edited version appears instead!

My first message was to say that I tried that Registry change - removing the filters, but it made no difference. I also said I felt my problem was not one of a "missing drive" but that Vista will not recognise a disc when inserted BESIDE showing space used/available and when double clicked comes up with "Prepare this blank disc". Audiograbber, DVDfab and Nero all show the contents why won't Windows? (see attachments).

Thanks

[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]beejay first off Welcome Aboard.

It's best to handle a Topic just like a conversation...just add comments; info as you go.
If you edit a post those following the thread may not re-read everything and therefore miss the edits for info.
Hi Patio,
Thanks for that. I guess I have a lot to learn about forums.
I was not being unsociable about not putting in my personal details, just not sure how to go about it. I will do that next.
Seeing all the posts for today, it amazes me that mine was answered so promptly! Great forum!

Beejay13Download, and run "Autorun fix": http://z2.invisionfree.com/ComputerHelp/index.php?showtopic=402
Backup is created, in case, fix doesn't work.beejay13, The more i think about your problem the more i am convinced that you DO NOt have a hardware problem Probably didn't with your 1st DVD unit either(hope you didn't toss it as it may come in handy for another machine). My belief is you are having some kind of a compatibility issue.Now more than likely it is something to do with Vista as opposed to any other on board software. However not yet being a user of Vista i cannot give any credible suggestions re a fix.I wonder what might be the result if you (temporarily) removed all other DVD software that you have from the computer (except the Windows Vista O/S software) I don't know all that you have but there sure are a multitude of them. Before doing this suggestion wait a little to see if any other forum members make a comment on this suggestion in order to get a better perspective as to whether this is likely to be of any benefit.It is not as if your player/burner is not accessible it is how you have to access it that is the problem as i see it.truenorthHi Truenorth,
Funny you should say that about throwing away the previous burner, I had, but when the new one was no better I pulled it out of the bin.
That is an interesting thought of yours about removing DVD software. I have a vague FEELING that the problem started around the time I installed DVDfab, so I will try Broni's Autorun fix, if that doesn't work I shall try uninstalling DVDfab.

Thanks for all your input.
Regards, Beejay13Hi Truenorth.

After waiting to see what other suggestions there were, I decided to try your suggestion and uninstall the DVDFab software - it worked! I now have the Autorun functioning and can see the contents of DVDs and CDs straight away. Another weird Vista thing?

Thank you everyone who used their knowledge to try and solve my problem, it is much appreciated.

Beejay13
PS I have re installed DVDFab and it does not seem to have reverted to the previous problem.
Beejay13, Ain't life grand (well at least sometimes).Thanks for posting back as others may benefit from your solution.truenorth Quote from: street1 on May 28, 2008, 03:29:50 AM

This link may help------>GoHere