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I have Match speed trio 5000 and got a Micro SDHC card for it and it is 16 BG

Wen I insert the card and FORMAT it it formats it in fat 32 and nothing els I have win xp pro.

Wen it formats the card I go to properties and the CAPACITY of the card says
14.8 GB

Why not 16 GB it just was formated?

Were is my 2 other GB?you've already had this explained to you.

the 16GB on the box of a Hard drive or flash drive refers to a GB as 1000MB. The COMPUTER works in binary so a GB is really 1024MB, which is 1024KB, which is 1024 bytes.

so your 16GB drive is 16,000,000,000 bytes, which is 16,000,000,000/1024=15,625,000 Kilobytes, which is 15,258.7 MB, which is 14.8 GB.Use Windows Disk Manager.
control panel > administrative tools >Computer Management >Disk Management
http://geek9pm.com/jpg/Disk-Manager.jpg




Quote from: BC_Programmer on January 13, 2011, 11:04:54 AM

you've already had this explained to you.

the 16GB on the box of a Hard drive or flash drive refers to a GB as 1000MB. The computer works in binary so a GB is really 1024MB, which is 1024KB, which is 1024 bytes.

so your 16GB drive is 16,000,000,000 bytes, which is 16,000,000,000/1024=15,625,000 Kilobytes, which is 15,258.7 MB, which is 14.8 GB.

HUH?

16GB on a box is using standard Metric amounts- 1000 as opposed to 1024. Therefore the actual size as seen by the computer will be different.

Toshiba laptop windows 7. RCA 32" HDMI HD TV. Has anyone any experience with connecting this type of configuration. I have done this quite a while ago using DVI to HDMI but that is not an option here. My checking with Toshiba has stated that i will NOT receive a high definition signal but MAY receive a signal as would occur on a non HD tv. However they also stated it may NOT work at all without a "converter". Also the possibility of using an RGB VGA output from the computer to RCA video/audio inputs on the TV are available. What is that likely to produce? Suggestions and comments gratefully accepted. truenorthThe Toshiba laptop doesn't have HDMI?
The RCA TV doesn't have VGA?
HDMI to HDMI or VGA to VGA are your best options.

What Toshiba was telling you is you won't get HiDef (1080i), but you should get 720p out of the HDMI.

I can output my desktop graphics card to my Toshiba 32" HDTV with either VGA or HDMI. The graphics card software controls the resolutions & views. The highest resolutions are achieved with HDMI. Best to check the TV's manual.CC Thank you very much for coming onboard on this one. The Toshiba tech support is the one provided (by phone) to owners of the Toshiba Satellite C650 laptops (still under warranty). The RCA is L26WD12. I have NOT talked to RCA yet but i may need to. On reading the manual I note that in ADDITION to what i described as available options in my initial post it apparently also (apparently because i didn't see it--but there are an incredible number of input/output jacks on it--two panels of them) is an available VGA input jack. If this option is used the recommended audio input suggested is 1/8 mini stereo plug.It also states the maximum video resolution is 1366 x 768 and to set the computer resolution to account for that. So of the options that are available what is your recommendation of which WAY to go that will likely produce the best result? I need to correct an error in my original post it is a 26" not a 32". truenorthHDMI has an advantage over VGA, in that it carries audio & video over 1 cable. For my desktop, I turn off the HDMI audio (from the computer) because the computer speakers are better than the TV's.
VGA may not "hot swap" if attempting to run dual monitors (laptop & TV), HDMI "hot swaps" similar to USB.

Look at your "on TV" menu, to see wht inputs are available: AMONG others it should say PC (VGA) & 1 or more HDMI, mine has 2 HDMI inputs. The Toshiba computer should have software to enable HDMI video/audio out.

BTW, for my TV
VGA max resolution = 1360x768
HDMI max resolution = 1920x1080p
TV sits on desk next to computer; it's a very big desk!The inputs in the menu that are available are :VID/SVID/CMP1/CMP2/VGA/HDMI. Maybe i am not understanding you properly when you refer to "enable HDMI video/audio out." from the computer. As i stated the only option for video out that is available on the Toshiba is RGB VGA output port. I could be wrong but would it not provide the best route for video transfer given that limitation to go directly VGA to VGA rather than VGA output to some other TV end option when the only signal coming is from a VGA output? For instance how would anything be improved if i had a VGA to HDMI cable just to be able to plug into the HDMI input port on the TV? This question is being asked solely as i do not know if it would. truenorthSince your laptop is new, I assumed it has an HDMI port. If it doesn't, then VGA is your only option. There are no converters involved for either.I wish it did but it does not. OK CC i now need to proceed to acquire a VGA/VGA cable i do have an incredible source for those type of things VERY inexpensive as long as you have the time to wait. Thank you very much for your assistance. truenorthsounds like you just need a good ol' standard VGA cable, like those that come with many monitors; if you have any LCD monitors lying around or that you aren't using you might be able to "borrow" it's VGA cable if it's detachable, as well.BC, What a timely and fortuitous REPLY. I was on the verge of ordering a vga/vga cable when your reply brought to my attention (that memory thing again) that i actually do have a 15" lcd monitor i picked up from a garage sale for $1.00 on the off chance i would find a use for it. Low and behold it has an about 6' removable vga/vga cableSo all that remains is to try it (not to see if the cable works as i know the monitor does work) but to see what kind of quality i get with the connection. Thank you, truenorthJust to provide a final update toothers following this thread and possibly thinking of doing this with the same connection options. This reply is being created using the Toshiba linked to the RCA tv via the vga-vga cable and i could not be more satisfied. The video quality is excellent if it were HD i dontsee how it could be better. truenorthQuote from: truenorth on January 13, 2011, 01:26:22 PM

Just to provide a final update to others following this thread and possibly thinking of doing this with the same connection options. This reply is being created using the Toshiba linked to the RCA tv via the vga-vga cable and i could not be more satisfied. The video quality is excellent if it were HD i dont see how it could be better. truenorth

I have an old Memorex USB Universal card reader that will not read/write an SDHC card in my wife's computer but works perfectly OK in mine. It is OK with CF cards. We think something must be DISABLED in my wife's computer but have no idea what. We are hesitant to buy a new card reader until we can clear this up. She gets one of two ERROR messages, DEPENDING on the program: EITHER insert a disk or the disk needs formatting. We both run XP SP3 on desktops which were upgraded in 2010.
Post the entire error messages...

I recently downloaded an iso file and made my EXTERNAL hard automatically boot that program. I did this in terminal on my mac. I did commands like umountdisk dev/disk2 and dd if=(my .iso) of=/dev/disk2 bs=1m. This worked but now I am done doing this and WANT to get back to using my external hard drive normally. I would appreciate it if anyone could help me undo this process of making my external harddrive usb bootable and return me with my files from my external harddrive.If your local internal HD has space. Boot normally with the external not connected. Then connect it after the OS has booted off the internal drive. Then copy all data from the external to the local drive if you have space, or only the data that you dont want to lose. Then format the external drive, and it will wipe out the boot instruction on it. Now copy your data back to the external and your all set.The name of the program and what it does would be helpful...Without knowing what type of PC you have, should we assume you are running a Apple Mac with a Linux/PPC on the external Hard drive?I an on a macbook pro and what happened was I had another laptop which had vista and we had forgotten the login password. So i downloaded an iso file on my mac which was basically this cd...
Windows NT/2k/XP/Vista Change Password / Registry Editor / Boot CD *
* *
* (c) 1998-2008 Petter Nordahl-Hagen. Distributed under GNU GPL v2 *
* *
* DISCLAIMER: THIS SOFTWARE COMES WITH ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTIES! *
* THE AUTHOR CAN NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE *
* CAUSED BY THE (MIS)USE OF THIS SOFTWARE *
* *
* More INFO at: http://home.eunet.no/~pnordahl/ntpasswd/ *
* Email : [emailprotected]


I didn't have a dvd so i made my usb external bootable by messing around in terminal on the mac and saving this iso to the external. Now every time i plug in the external all it shows are these cd files and not all of my other files that were on the external originally. Only the mac recognizes it too. When i press get info on this external it SAYS Kind: Volume, Format: ISO 9660, Capacity: 3.7 MB, Available: Zero KB, Used: 3.7 MB on disk. This is weird because its a 320 gb hard drive. It also says modified and last used in 2008 which is weird because i just made changes to it yesterday. When plug in a working external it says Format: MS-DOS(FAT32) and capacity 250gb. Is it possible to get my files back which were originally on the harddrive because i made changes?so basicallly, i believe i somehow partially reformated my external to an iso file. Is there anyway to undo this action and recover my data?please SOMEONE... i neeed helpp!!A partition recovery tool may do the trick....the good ones are not free so you will have to determine what the data is worth to you.

This may be a dumb question, but I have a Gigabyte M57SLI-S4 AM2 NFORCE 570 mobo, and I'm planning on upgrading my video card. Will there be any conflict with my mobo since it uses an Nvidia chipset if I were to go with an ATI card? I don't have a PREFERENCE either way, the question just occured to me as I was window shopping...Quote from: roccenstein on January 13, 2011, 09:15:42 AM

This may be a dumb question, but I have a Gigabyte M57SLI-S4 AM2 NFORCE 570 mobo, and I'm planning on upgrading my video card. Will there be any conflict with my mobo since it uses an Nvidia chipset if I were to go with an ATI card?

Hi guys, I'm new to the board and I've been having problems with my SD card reading on my laptop. I have a Sony VAIO with an onboard SD card reader.

I have a Sandisk Micro SD with an SD adapter. It won't read on my laptop at all, it just tells me to insert a disk into that drive. So I WENT out and got myself an Optex SD card reader which plugs into my USB. Same thing.

Help!! what is the capacity of your SD card? anything over 4gb will only work with SD 2.0 card readers.Yeah, it's 4GB. So would I be better off just getting a USB wire for my phone? What is the difference between a 2.0 SD reader and whatever I have?Is this a high capacity card?

It will say SD HC or SOMETHING like that on itYep, it's SDHC.Your problem is that the card is newer TECHNOLOGY than your sd card reader.

the sd2.0 card reader has a 20mb/s read/writer that is what your SDHC card is formatted to.

You have an older SD reader which does not support that speed.

Seeing as tho it reads in your phone you can use that as the reader and plug it into your computer via usb or use bluetooth if you have a blue tooth reader in your computer.
If I got a card reader that could read HC would it then work in my computer? I guess there's no driver I can just DOWNLOAD? Nothing is ever simple, lol.Yeah, you'll have to get a reader that can support SDHC. There is no driver or software that will make your older, slower reader work any faster.I have a similiar problem. Our old USB Memorex card reader will not read newer SDHC cards in my wife's computer but will read and write them OK when plugged into mine. We both run XP on desktops. It is apparent something is not enabled on hers but we cannot FIGURE it out. The Memorex reads CF cards fine on both. Please start a new thread in the hardware section for your particular issue. Thanks.OK. I'm new to this but I think I just did. See "card reader works fine in one computer..."

Excellent news Elwood,well done. Now to address your "COST" re a powered USB as compared to the RAM route. Here is a link to a site that is just fantastic re it's products and pricing. I have used them many TIMES and have never found the same product cheaper anywhere else ( no financial interests in them only a customer). They include free SHIPPING on ALL their products. Be prepared to wait as they are located in Hong KONG. I have found between 5-6 weeks by post. I just picked the 1ST one that came up on a search on their web site probably others there as well.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.678
truenorth

Hello,
This morning I wanted to make a backup of my USB, since it was serveral days I haven't made one. So when I put my USB stick in the computer, it gave the MESSAGE that my USB is not formatted and need to be formatted. I don't know how this happened, because I always REMOVE the stick with safe way. And I tried to open de USB stick from another pc and it gave me the same message. There are some important documents on the stick which a made yesterday

I also tried to check it on errors, but that gave an error.

Is there a way to solve this problem WITHOUT to format? Or are there other SOLUTIONS?

Greetings,

ArnieYou could TRY Recuva on it....I tried Rucuva on it and some other recovery programs, but they don't find anythink on it. And one of the programs I used didn't reconize the FAT file system... Is there anything else I could try?

Quote from: deargodpleasehelp on January 03, 2011, 08:22:48 AM

It was DVI Adapter to PC/TV Cord

What is a PC/TV Cord?

When we say "give us just the facts" we don't need to know you got your cable back from the cable company when they worked on your box. This is useless info and just helps to add to the confusion.

This is what I have gathered from my questions.

1. Exactly what kind of cable did you have hooked up last time it worked? DVI
2. What kind of cable did you try to switch to? VGA
3. What kind of cable are you now trying to get to work? HDMI

Have you tried the DVI cable again?

OK, well when you find it, give it a try and post back what the results are.

This is an LCD TV, and 720p (1280 x 720) is it's Native Res. Though for some reason, it simply doesn't accept it, it just does the same thing I said it previously did if I changed the Resolution to other than the listed ones that work...

this isn't exactly my TV so I don't really know the Model...

Does your video card support that resolution?

If you have gone thru enough settings in the TV to find out that it is SW/FW upgradable then surely you found the setting that gives you all teh info about the TV? Or at least found the label on the back that gives you info about the TV.

There are just too many inconsistencies and your un-willingness to give info that we can actually use is now causing me to step out of this.

First you started off saying that it "Wasn't exactly your TV" then you turn around and say it was given to you. So is it your TV or not.

There are just too many inconsistencies and your un-willingness to give info that we can actually use is now causing me to step out of this.

Good luck

If you guys were really useful, (which you should make yourselves)

I do, quite often, with members that aren't a pain in the rear.

That wasn't a very helpfull post, nor was it very fowarding of the situation to make this any easier...
::sigh::

Hi there,
I got my WB 2.0TB internal hard drive and a Laser dock for it. Everything was fine, but when I got home with it from work today, when I turn it on it has it's usual blue light, but when I place the hard drive into the dock, it flashes a red/purple, and my computer doesn't PICK up on it being connected like it did with the blue light. Clearly there is an error but I don't KNOW what it is, what COULD of gone wrong, or any experience with it. I've searched the net and the forums and had no LUCK, hence why I've turned to posting a new topic.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanking you in advance,

Emmy7
Welcome to the CH forums Emmy 7, Is it possible you mean WD (western DIGITAL) as opposed to WB? Is it also possible that you mean an "external" rather than internal? Could you please supply us with the model number for the device? truenorth

I am checking out a Pentium 3 laptop that is running Windows XP Home after a clean build. It is 800 Mhz and 256MB Ram, and 20GB HD. The odd issue is that it boots up fine without any error messages and is quick to get to desktop. But when launching applications at times it does not respond to the applications you double clicked to LAUNCH. You can start taskmgr and watch the CPU single core activity that rests around 3% activity at idle and when you double click the application you see a surge in activity for about 3 seconds and then back to 3% idle and applications dont launch. Applications that are a part of the normal windows clean build such as Internet Explorer etc sometimes launch and sometimes do this strange bahavior. I am thinking its a hardware issue, but I ran Memtest86 on this and it passes after quite a length of time for the Pentium3 to go through all the tests. Any suggestions on where to look next or other test utilities to run to figure out what is the culprit of this odd behavior. Most people would probably just junk this old Pentium3 laptop, but it bugs me that I havent been able to determine the exact cause even if the cause is a main board issue which I am unsure of. If a main board issue I would expect the failure results to be more catastrophic. I also look in the event log and its clean no error messages, so windows doesnt even know that its misbehaving. I also checked into the CPU temp and its running normal warm temp of about 100 degrees F as for these old P3's were known to run warm idle and this does run as quite the lapwarmer even with all fans running when applications take. That is what is also odd is that sometimes IE will launch and run without any problems and other times no response, yet in taskmgr you can see it recognised the mouse click and was attempting to start, but never successfully launched and never errored out and never posted an error to event log. Also tried a usb mouse instead of the touchpad etc that is integrated to laptop and same results with external USB mouse.

If there was a utility that can baby sit the applications to watch how they launch, maybe this error can be detected, but I dont know of any such apps? I really expected the RAM to be the culprit, but it passed Memtest86 which is very thorough.What's a "Clean build"? would that be a Clean Install?As a test try highlighting the icon & pushing 'enter' on the keyboard, perhaps your double clicking finger isn't up to par.
XP has adjustments for this in the control panel>mouse.Clean Build is clean install direct from OEM XP CD. And yes my clicks are quick..lolI guess my question is does anyone know of any software that can run on this system to diagnose flakey hardware problems? I have already used Memtest86 and it passed 2 passes that took quite a while to run since the computer is not a speed demon P3. I am thinking that if there was a utility that exercised and monitored sections of the system, maybe it would be able to pin point it. I ran passmark benchmark utility on it and the only feature that couldnt run was the video because the GPU is an old S3 chipset that doesnt support 3D rendering etc. It ran the benchmark with no signs of issues. Also to note, since the original post, I completely formatted the hard drive and reinstalled a clean installation all over again, just to rule out software related issues. The XP CD is clean and not scratched as well, so I know there is no corruption software wise and its hardware related.If you installed all the Windows Updates & an anti-virus, it will, indeed, run a lot slower. My Pentium II-333 w/540MB runs far slower now than it did 7-8 years ago when it had 256MB. I can only attribute it to all the Services/Processes that are running.Finally found problem. Cracked it open and looked around and " Corrosion on motherboard". It appears that this system took a swim at some point in its past or got wet somehow on its UNDERSIDE. I am going to remove the white oxodized lead between leads and see if it behaves after that. Amazed that it worked at all!!! The oxodized lead probably acted like a bunch of 50k resistors bridging signals on address lines etc. Time to use a tooth BRUSH to clean off oxides and throw the lead infested toothbrush away.That's a good find Dave have you proved it to be the problem?Quote from: Fed on January 11, 2011, 09:41:35 PM

That's a good find Dave have you proved it to be the problem?

...You would think that it would pull a signal up or down, or always cross talk between address and data lines etc...

I am running a GIGABYTE GA-P55M-UD2 v 1.1 motherboard. Prior to this I was using it in conjunction with a 500w "Basiq" Antec PSU. The Antec PSU used the 4-pin connection type. I now have a new PSU, a 750w Corsair, and it uses the 8-pin connector.

There are several issues I am now experiencing. The primary concern is when I use the full 8-pin connection, my system will not boot beyond the Windows 7 loading SCREEN; it will go into an endless CYCLE of rebooting. At first I THOUGHT it was a faulty PSU; to my chagrin after an RMA the issue was still present, so after speaking to tech support with Corsair they said I "should be ok" using only 4 of the 8 pins.

Granted, my system does boot up now that I've gone to the 4-pin config. But I don't like it; it's designed to take the 8-pin.

Further, upon going to 4-pin, when I shut my system down--it immediately reboots and starts back up again, unprompted, about two seconds later. This only after initial start-up and then shutdown via the Start menu; if I turn the power switch back on (I have to turn it off manually on the actual PSU to keep it off) it doesn't automatically start back up, then.

Any thoughts? I've looked at any of the A/C settings in BIOS and none seem to be causing either symptom.

*bump*

Also to add: I have done the jumper/remove battery CMOS reset as well to no avail.Quote from: moonbeamdanser on January 12, 2011, 06:55:38 AM

*bump*

I just recently bought a Canon HD camcorder. I've shot a few videos and they playback fine on my HD TV, but when I play them on my PC through the supplied software, they're a little jumpy. Then, if I try to open them with VLC or WMP, they're even worse. My specs are as follows: AMD 2.4ghz dual core, 3gb ram, Nvidia 8400gs 256mb. Could it just be that my video card can't handle it?Not likely Try to re un install and re install one of you media players.I just noticed too while using the software that came with the camera that during video playback CPU usage jumps to around 96%, which is a little odd. During playback on VLC and WMP it doesn't go that high, but the performance is worse. I'm dl-ing the most current version of VLC right now and will do an uninstall and reinstall to see if that helps.Great, now VLC is not cooperating. I downloaded ver. 1.1.5 and it prompted me to uninstall the previous version, which I did, but then when I attempt to install the new version, I get the following message:

Error opening file for writing:

C:\Program Files\VideoLAN\VLC\vlc.exe

Argh. Now what?

UPDATE: Nevermind on the VLC issue, I figured it out. Had to stop a VLC process through the task manager before it WOULD install the new version.

Still having issues with the jumpy playback using updated VLC however...

Also, I do have the most current drivers for my graphics card installed.

I got this information from VLCs media information after playing a short clip (in case any of it is important):

Video:
Decoded: 366 blocks
Displayed: 7365 frames
Lost: 261 frames

Type: Video
Codec: H264 - MPEG-4 AVC
Resolution: 1920x1080
Frame RATE: 59.940059
Un install ALL media software. Including the player that came with the camcorder. Reset, and ty VLC again.
A common problem is the Open command may call TWO different players.
Right click and use Open With... instead to make sure just one player is running. Also, avoid the full screen mode.How about converting the video(free video converters) from your camcorder first before playing it with your media software? Transfer the video file from your camcorder to your PC and convert to another AVI format and save it to a created folder then play it. See if it makes a difference. I did that using Quick Media Converter, and it does make a difference but at the expense of quality. If I convert it to an avi, it runs smooth, but the resolution is lower (kinda defeats the purpose of an HD camcorder), plus, I don't want to have to convert every single video I make. I tried converting it to HD also using QMC but still no good. It wasn't jumpy, but it appeared to be in slow motion while the audio was at regular speed. I'm a little worried that I bought this camera and now won't be able to save and watch videos. As I said earlier, the videos are perfect when I play them straight from the camera to the TV, it's only on the PC that I'm having a problem. Also, the videos I've recorded are at 1920x1080, but the max resolution of my video card is 1680x1050, could that be a problem?From what I know is that a HD(High Definition) movie format is for a HDTV to attain the quality and the rest depends on the native resolution and of course another case are 3Ds. In your PC's case having a lower video output from your videocard might be the problem. Another thing is the output format. VLC has been highly regarded in terms of video playback.It just occurred to me, what if I buy a bluray rewritable drive? If the playback is jumpy on my pc, will I be able to burn the videos onto a bluray disc and have it be good quality, or will it burn it in the same jumpy quality?

Also, I've been doing some reading and think that while my PC may be part of the problem, it may be more my OS. From what I've read, Win7 is better at handling HD video. Is there any truth to that? If so, would there be any benefit to simply installing Win7 (instead of my current XP Pro)?Quote

From what I know is that a HD(High Definition) movie format

From what I've read, Win7 is better at handling HD video. Is there any truth to that?

AMD 2.4ghz dual core, 3gb ram, Nvidia 8400gs 256mb

NTSC was the first widely adopted broadcast color system.

...The [original] standard recommended a frame rate of 30 frames (images) per second, consisting of two interlaced fields per frame at 262.5 lines per field and 60 fields per second. Other standards in the final recommendation were an aspect ratio of 4:3...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NTSC

I'm looking into upgrading the videocard for my desktop PC, but I'm curious just how "NEW" I can go that my system will actually be able to handle. In other words, could I upgrade to SOMETHING like the nVidia GeForce GTX 400 series, or only the 200 series? Or something else entirely?

My CURRENT specs:

Power Supply: 650 watts
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 @ 2.66GHz
Memory: 2GB System RAM
Hard Drive: 250GB
Video Card: GeForce 9600 GT
Operating System: WINDOWS XP Home SP3
Motherboard: ASUS P5N-E SLI

So, given that... what do you think my system could handle for a new videocard?The minimum recommended system power for a GTX 480 is 600 Watts, so yes, you should be able to handle the 400 series.The manufacturer of the card will specify the power requirements. nVidia does not make the card, they make the graphics chip (GPU).

I've been lurking for a while. Now, wanna ASK you for ADVICE.
I thought I had become used to my 13" MBP screen, but after using a 20" today for a while minutes I really thinking about going for a monitor for home use. The monitor was a Hanns G which I found for about $120 online. Whether or not the display is anything special or amazing doesn't bother me- it looked good and (most importantly) it was big. Budget of about $250, wouldn't really want to spend more than that. I'm also looking into this Samsung BX2331 23" Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor. What ya think? Am I on the right track? Will I be disappointed? Experiences? Just an observation. You relay need to see the monitor side by side with others in its class. IMHO buying a good monitor online wooed be like buying your dress shirts online.Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 12, 2011, 12:14:26 AM

Just an observation. You relay need to see the monitor side by side with others in its class. IMHO buying a good monitor online wooed be like buying your dress shirts online.

First allow me to apologies if I am doing anything wrong with this post, as I am completely unfamiliar with chat rooms and forums and the like.
(I am running win 7) I am currently using a Kingston 64GB ssd for my OS and programs, with a Toshiba 128GB ssd as my data storage (I also have two 500GB external HDs for movies and music). I am going to purchase another 64GB ssd or 128GB ssd and run them together in RAID 0. I know that they need to be the same size, but I don't know what else needs to be exactly the same ( ie read/write speed, cache size, information transfer format, etc.). Does anybody know? Also, if you have any other advise as to a configuration for these, please let me hear it.
This is my first full computer build and I think I may have gone a bit overboard with this monster ($2000 US) but, it will be many years before I will ever have to worry about my computer not being able to do something that I ask of it.

Thank you for your time.Many prefer to watch the movie instead of reading the book.

Videos for RAID in Windows 7

WARNING.Do not go to site with blue disc. Just do then videos.Thank you for that link. I bookmarked it so that I can review it for tips later.
One of the things that I am looking for is, people with more computer SAVVY than me giving me their opinions; such as...."I would set it up like .........., because..........." That way, if it was something that appealed to me, I might try it. Or it might give me a different IDEA or perspective.RAID has two major objectives.
A. Make the system faster.
B. Make the system reliable.

If it is for you own use, and you make BACKUPS anyway, you can consider optimizing for speed alone. In theory, most RAID 0 setups can be configured with hard drives of different sizes from different manufacturers. However you will save yourself a lot of time and grief by using identical hard drives--meaning drives of the same make, model, and size.Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 09, 2011, 05:27:55 PM

RAID has two major objectives.
A. Make the system faster.
B. Make the system reliable.

If it is for you own use, and you make backups anyway, you can consider optimizing for speed alone.

In theory, most RAID 0 setups can be configured with hard drives of different sizes from different manufacturers. However you will save yourself a lot of time and grief by using identical hard drives--meaning drives of the same make, model, and size.

I recently INSTALLED Linux Mint on my system alongside XP home. Mint has been running fine, but I made the mistake of holding down the power button on my PC while the BIOS was loading some stuff (I had accidentally chosen "reboot" in Linux instead of Shut Down and I wanted to PC off).

After doing so, now when I turn on my PC, the monitor complains that it is not getting a VIDEO signal. The monitor, gfx card (nvidia), and PC have served me quite WELL for a couple years. I have never had this problem in the past. Neither the BIOS nor the operating system selection screen appear, nor the operating system (Linux by default). I am at a loss as to how to solve this problem; did my video card somehow go out? I already checked the DVI cable for a snug fit.

Thanks so much in advance.Quote from: spaddack on January 02, 2011, 03:05:41 PM

I recently installed Linux Mint on my system alongside XP home. Mint has been running fine, but I made the mistake of holding down the power button on my PC while the BIOS was loading some stuff (I had accidentally chosen "reboot" in Linux instead of Shut Down and I wanted to PC off).

After doing so, now when I turn on my PC, the monitor complains that it is not getting a video signal. The monitor, gfx card (nvidia), and PC have served me quite well for a couple years. I have never had this problem in the past. Neither the BIOS nor the operating system selection screen appear, nor the operating system (Linux by default). I am at a loss as to how to solve this problem; did my video card somehow go out? I already checked the DVI cable for a snug fit.

Thanks so much in advance.

Yes I would like to ask, what exactly happens when you turn on your PC? Do you hear any unusual sounds, beeps, etc?
I'd love to ask what kind of PC this is, if you don't mind me asking.

And; have you tried getting any input from a Standard VGA cord or other type of Output?

If this is a TV Monitor, Please take caution and I'd say disconnect the whole thing and use an available PC monitor, as of my Previous topic you can see that Switching from HDMI to VGA causes a pain in the neck...

Hope you can get back to me.

Thanks, DGPH

Any idea, DGPH? Do you think it might be worth a try to swap out the video card?

I have a Hewlett Packard ScanJet 3300C computer scanner which i bought a few years back. After using it a few times when it was still new, i stopped using it because i was not so desperate to scan pictures at that time. Now, a few years later, i have pictures that i want to scan. However, even after the scanner was plugged in all the RIGHT WAYS, the scanner showed no light, no life. Nothing happens when i press the buttons of the scanner. A friend said it could be an internal PROBLEM caused by lack of use. I would like to know if this is the most likely cause of the scanner not FUNCTIONING, and if yes, then what needs to be changed or repaired?
GO ahead and replace the scanner. They are relatively inexpensive and not worth a repair cost. Besides, you'll get a better scanner with newer technology.

Alan <><

Hello there-this is my first post, thanks for viewing!!!

Yesterday my sister gave me a computer she hasn't used in about a year, she is moving and is trying to get rid of excess items.

It's a Dell Dimension 4600, approx 2 years old, but used very sparingly(I believe everything is still "factory" as she isn't into computers that much)

Today I was working on it, trying to get it to START up-The original hdd is an 80gb Seagate, I know she had Win MCE on it. Basically I cannot get the computer to boot, I keep getting a "Strike F1 to reboot, F2 to go to setup UTILITY"... Checked Bios, it is not detecting the drive, so just for the fun of it I installed her hdd on my computer-started just fine, so I tried a different hdd(from my computer that is working just fine) still nothing.

Any Ideas? No drives are being detected even the DVD drive, and I have tried 2 different dvd drives.

THANKS!

Deanna

EMail address renoved to prevent Spam...Sorry-should also add I am getting 2 short beeps when starting up.

Thanks againSounds like you may have a bad memory stick...

How many sticks are in the memory slots? Try one at a time until you can determine the one that's causing the issue.

Keep us POSTED...just checked

It has 4 memory slots, I have 4 cards, took them all out one by one, tried them in each slot-still no luck

Thanks though!If it's been sitting not used for awhile i would replace the CMOS battery...




Part # CR2032 available at any computer store.
Make sure to remove all power sources when opening the case.
Also while in there re-seat the video card and any other addon cards...
And double check the IDE ribbon cable connections to the MBoard.Thank you-

Ok, so I got the computer to finally recognize a hard drive, it will attempt to boot, but sends me to the ""Windows did not start properly" screen-any option i pick it just sends the computer into the same old reboot cycle.... It looks like it is attempting after picking an option, then it restarts(but when this same hdd is used on my computer, it doesn't do this, checked it 3 different times, just to make suredid you or did you not change the cmos battery?Yes, CHANGED the cmos batteries:-)

Still it's doing the reboot cycle Do you have a Windows CD that came with it to do some repairs ? ?Hi,

My name is Todd and I'm with Dell's online outreach program. I just saw this thread and wanted to see whether you had been able to get the problems with that system resolved. If not, PLEASE let me know and I'll see what I can do to help you. It could be a few different sources causing the problem and we may be able to define it down a bit more for you.

I'll stop back to see if you still need help with this issue.

Thank you,

Todd

Customer Advocate
Dell, Inc.

http://direct2dell.com/one2one/archive/2006/11/19/3648.aspx

My elderly Compaq PRESARIO has had to be draughted into USE as an extra computer for email/word processing purposes. It's rather slow nowadays, so I wanted to format the hard drive and reinstall the operating system. Buuuuuuut - although I have the installation CDs, both CD-ROM drives on the computer are refusing to function. They both make funny clicking noises as they struggle to read a CD, but never manage to.

Anyone got any thoughts on how to get round this? Either with something clever that means I don't need to use the CD drives, (I wouldn't need to use them once the hard drive has been reformatted) or maybe an idea why the CD drives ain't working?

Any advice much appreciated.Sorry - never posted on a tech forum before. Computer details:

Compaq Presario
533 MHz AMD-K6
512MB RAM
Windows 98SE

Dunno if that helps.CDRoms don't normally make a clicking noise...that sounds like the hard drive is failing instead...
What's probably happening is because it's an older version of Windows if it does not run normally the CDRom drivers are not recognised...
Pull that HDD out and hook it up into a known working machine as a slave drive and try to retrieve your data...
Be prepared before doing so ...you may only get one chance.I've never had clicking problem with my computer CD drives, but it happened to me with regular (standalone) CD player. It was always a case of home made CDs, though. In some cases lens cleaning CD helped.
On the other hand, if it that sound comes from HD, patio is totally right.Definately sounds like a HDD issue...however...I have had CD drives that would make sort of clicking noises...not like the dry HDD clicks, but rather dull sounding, is it more of a thump then a click? I think your best option is to retrieve your data off another...It's too BAD your restore disks (I believe 99%) wont work in another comp as Compaq normally lock their restore disks to their own systems...(Learnt my lesson with an old old old Presario 2200...If you have another machine, swap a working CD drive into it to complete the reinstall and then swap back

KurtisIf you are trying to boot from a CD, having set that option in the BIOS, Windows drivers are neither here nor there.

I have been using and fixing (until they got so cheap it wasn't worth it) optical drives for 10 years. I have definitely had both CD and DVD drives that made clicking noises. These reasons mainly:

1. Bad disk: the read/write laser moves back and forth along a plastic TRACK and if the laser cannot lock on to the "table of contents" section at the start of the disk, or if it did, but later, during a data read it "loses its place" due to dirt or scratches, it will vainly seek back and forth until the firmware timeout expires (or in a bad case it will lock up the OS and you have to press the reset button). The clicking you hear is the laser carrier hitting the ends of the track.

2. Dried up lube on the aforementioned track. When the CD-ROM drive is made, a glob of silicone lube is smeared along the track. With time this gets carried along to the ends of the track where it accumulates in ridges mixed up with dirt and dust. This can limit the travel of the laser carrier and prevent it from locking on to the disk properly. This can happen after about 5 to 7 years of use, or a few years of storage.

3. Bad read sensor or dirty lens. The drive gets no reflected signal from the disk and whacks the read head back and forth vainly like SITUATION (1) above.

4. Bad read laser or dirty lens ditto.

I would verify that the disk or disks work in another computer, that is, at least can be read in Windows Explorer without undue hesitation and without too many clicks and whirrs.

new CD-ROM drives are 15 US dollars from Tiger Direct. CD Rewriter drives are 20 US dollars.


If I'm correct, when it's HD clicking, it goes more constantly, like:
click, click, click, click
With CD drive, it's more like:
click...looking...click...looking...cli ckCheers guys.

I'm pretty certain it's not the HDD. The noise definitely comes from the CD drives and is intermittent - like it's trying to read the disk. I'll have a swap around with my other PC, but I reckon I'll end up having to buy another CD drive.

Thanks for your help.

Anyone know if it is possible to flash the HP CUW-AM V2.0 socket 370 motherboard with the Asus CUW-AM/MEW-AM bios? the bios's are both phoenix bios's. My specs are a 700mhz celeron, 384mb of PC133 SDRAM, intel whitney i810 chipset, intel 82810 graphics controller, and a intel i752 integrated VIDEO card, onboard audio is DISABLED because it sucked, i am using my sigmatel creative sound blaster live 5.1 sound card, and, you know the motherboard already, believe it or not, its running windows XP pro SP1 adequately fast, and any of you who know me, know i am picky about speed. i think thats all that matters for the flash. if you need anything else it can surely be found in the report generated by everest ultimate in the archive below.

And yes, i have googled, and found nothing, this board isnt supported by HP or Asus, if it ever even was. oh, by the way, this system is just make due till i can either get my main rig up and going or, get my new Inspiron laptop next month, whichever comes first.

this is an image of an HP of the same model as the one the board i have came out of.



I found the system on the curb a couple years ago, banged up, covered with stickers, and other crap, i messed around with it for abotu half an HOUR, and, the micro ATX power supply BLEW, go figure. so, i ripped it out of its HP skin, and stored it for a while, now i have it in an Emachines T1150 case, with a standard ATX 350w antec smart power PSU, 80gb Seagate barracuda hard drive, 320gb western digital hard drive, samsung 52x cd RW drive, and my dlink dwl 530 wireless card, 'least i think thats the model. ironically, im using an HP mx70 monitor i found on the curb as well. this rig is my final backup computer pretty much, as i said, its adequately fast, EXCEPT on boot.

EDIT:

http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?modelname=MEW-AM&SLanguage=en-us

after digging through asus's site, i found bios's for the MEW-AM board, BUT, i cannot verify if the MEW-AM and CUW-AM board are one in the same. now, i need help verifying this.

[getting space - attachment deleted by admin]

between a HD and a CD-Rom DRIVE because I knew both drives were working fine but the CD drive wasn't working. Long story short, I fixed the computer even after it wouldn't boot several times. However, a part of the process confused me.

When I first changed the ribbon chords, it fixed the problem. Everything booted up fine. Then when I tried to restore from a CD, (and the restore cd was bad) it triggered more startup problems. The OS wouldn't load. After tons of problem solving tries, I switched back the ribbon chords and behold it worked. Very confusing SCENARIO. I also switched in and out of primary and secondary IDE controllers and tried booting from the HD and CD-rom several times. I never could get it to restore, but I got it working fine again.

Finally, does anyone have any idea as to why this would be? For my FUTURE reference?

(emachines, windows 2000 pro is all I remember about the machine)the reason I knew the CD drive was fine was because I switched in a brand new one and the same thing happened.One of the ribbon cables (that is what they are called in English) is faulty or damaged.
This also may involve jumpers as well but i agree with Contrex...
IDE1 = 2 drives.
One has to be set as master and hooked up to the END CONNECTOR of the ribbon cable.
The other needs to be jumpered as slave and hooked to the MIDDLE connector of the ribbon cable.
The same holds true for IDE 2 as well...

Also keep in mind that making more than one drive change at a time can confuse the BIOS and have it act as a cranky in-law.
Change only one drive/position at a time and always re-boot a few times to prevent this symptom...ok, but they worked fine going into both controllers with 2 different ribbon "cables". This is how they were set up in the first place.do you think that is what was screwing it up?Yep.

I have a x1900 pro VIDEO card and an Emachines computer with an onboard geforce 6100. The ati card worked perfectly fine for a couple of months.. than one day while turning on the computer i noticed the monitor wasnt turning on. WHen i plugged the monitor into the onboard vga output i realized that the computer was running now on the onboard video card. When i restarted the computer a couple of times.. the x1900 "turned back on" without switching anyting in bios or updating any drivers. So now.. whenever i have to shut my computer off.. sometimes the x1900 is detected.. and sometimes the on board card. I dont have an option to disable to onboard card.. tried reinstalling ati drivers.. reinstalled the card itself.. i even formated my HD and upgraded from XP to Vista.. and still have the same issue sometimes the card is on and sometimes the onboard card takes over.. Please help as this is very frustrating and i cannot find any solutions to this problem.Quote

WHen i plugged the monitor into the onboard vga output

a x1900 pro video card

I'm CURRENTLY in possession of an iMac. Its sound is crystal clear with no problems what so ever. Yet I use boot camp to get a Windows partition to hold all my games. Recently however my sound has not been working. This happened suddenly without warning. I know it isn't a speaker problem as my Mac partition works perfectly. I'm currently using a licensed copy of Windows with SP2. Any ideas? I just want to save this computer before my DAD starts ripping into it.

Best REGARDS.
Jamez.
Quite a common problem. DISCUSSION and some (maybe useful) links here

http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=2929487

Also see here!

http://www.google.co.uk/search?source=ig&hl=en&q=boot+camp+no+sound&btnG=Google+Search&meta=


Thanks a bunch. By the way is this something that HAPPENS straight away? I had sound before I lost it on the Windows partition. So why would it suddenly go? Or is that commen to?

Jamez.

so just recently after logging off of a game my computer locked up, and my speakers left of a constant high pitch squel. I had to manually power down the comp. At first it WOULD not boot, finally i got it to boot, and loaded last known good config. Now the problem is happening more often, pretty much any time i leave a game, after surfing the web for 15-20 mins, or even just leaving my comp on for a hour or so. It NEVER locks up mid game, only during exit. Any ideas? is my pcu overheating? I did take the fan and heatsink off my pcu to check it, and it looked as though the thermal compound was pretty much cooked, the pcu was kind stuck to the heatsink, so i put some new thermal compound on but the problem still consists. any ideas would be great thank you. Just noticed that after this last lock up/crash, when i got back on my date and time on my comp were dec 31 2001? this seems very odd to me?
Joker
Ps here are my specs.
Product name alienware
Board model Genuine Intel(R) D875PBZ system board
OS version Windows* XP version 5.1 Service Pack 2 build 2600
OS memory 1,047,236 KB RAM

***************************************************************************
Processor
***************************************************************************
Processor Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.20GHz
Bus speed 800 MHz
L1 cache Data Cache 8KB, Execution Trace Cache 12K Micro-ops
L2 cache Advanced Transfer Cache 512 KB
FORM factor Socket 478
Stepping 9

***************************************************************************
System
***************************************************************************
Physical memory 1,024 MB RAM
Memory speed DDR400
Memory type DDR, Synchronous
Form factor DIMM
BIOS date 11/24/2003
BIOS size 1024 KB
BIOS version P17 (BZ87510A.86A.0081.P17.0311241511)

***************************************************************************
Sensors
***************************************************************************
Sensor Name Processor Fan
Current Value 3360
Upper Threshold not applicable
Lower Threshold not applicable

Sensor Name System Fan 1
Current Value 1683
Upper Threshold not applicable
Lower Threshold not applicable

Sensor Name Processor Zone
Current Value 104
Upper Threshold 154
Lower Threshold not applicable

Sensor Name System Zone 1
Current Value 95
Upper Threshold 149
Lower Threshold not applicable

Sensor Name System Zone 2
Current Value 88
Upper Threshold 149
Lower Threshold not applicable

Sensor Name +12 V
Nominal Value 12.000
Current Value 12.000
Upper Threshold 13.200
Lower Threshold 10.800

Sensor Name +5 V
Nominal Value 5.000
Current Value 5.130
Upper Threshold 6.000
Lower Threshold 4.000

Sensor Name +3.3 V
Nominal Value 3.300
Current Value 3.420
Upper Threshold 4.300
Lower Threshold 2.300

Sensor Name CPU Core (+1.55 V)
Nominal Value 1.550
Current Value 1.518
Upper Threshold 2.350
Lower Threshold 0.750

Sensor Name CPU I/O (+1.5 V)
Nominal Value 1.500
Current Value 1.549
Upper Threshold 2.300
Lower Threshold 0.700Does the computer freeze in safe mode when exiting games ?

Are all your fans working properly ? Ok well.....


You could give this a shot...


Take out your heatsink fan .... wipe any form of heatsink away from the cpu and onto say a plastic CARD , once you have done this , make sure none got into the cpu check reverse side..... next add a new layer or thermal compound and smear on with a credit card or a plastic card of some type , once you have correcly applied a smooth layer of thermal compund , put it in your socket nice and firm , but not to hard , ..... Boot up . You can check your system bios to see if your fans are all running as they should , im not ot sure if this is the case with all bios but i can check my fans are running correctly on my board through there .....

Let us know what you decide to do ...
SO i cleaned the old thermal compound, added new thermal compound and my computer ran all last night and today no issues. Then today i surfed the web a bit and everything was fine. Then just recently while surfing the web it locked up with the high pitch beep sound. I restarted. when it re loaded i went back on the web and got another lock up. I am at a loss, it seems as though all my fans are working. My intel active monitor my proccessor is still in the green heat wise. Could it be something other than the cpu? let me know what you guys think.
thanks
JokerQuote from: Spero-T on October 02, 2007, 03:22:32 AM

Does the computer freeze in safe mode when exiting games ?

How can I get my SMART PC at lowest Price in UK?I would BUILT it your self... alot cheeper... Quote from: Spero-T on October 05, 2007, 05:49:08 AM

I would built it your self... alot cheeper...

Is it important that the Motherboard FSB, CPU FSB and RAM FSB must be the same?

For example: I have a processor 500Mhz FSB, since I have a processor with 500Mhz FSB so do I have to buy also 500Mhz FSB RAM and Motherboard?No.

and do you mean 533 MHz?

If your motherboard goes to 533, then that's the max it will go. you can get a processor with a higher fsb, but when you put it on that motherboard, it will simply downclock to 533.

the same goes for ram. however, there are 4 different kinds of ram out right now: SDRAM, DDR, DDR2, and the new DDR3. you have DDR ram. in the DDR catagory, 533 MHz is the highest speed possible. when you go to the next step up, which is 667 MHz, you get into DDR2 ram, and that won't physically fit on your motherboard.oops, actually I goofed. don't know what i was THINKING...

you actually have DDR2 ram. 533 MHz is the lowest of the DDR2 type.

but the idea is the same. you don't have to exactly match all the speeds to your FSB. your motherboard will clock down as necessary.Quote

When choosing a FSB speed for the CPU you choose, be aware that you'll need to purchase memory capable of this faster speed. For example, many people are enticed by the remarkably low prices to be had on some older laptops. While these laptops may be outfitted with Pentium 4 CPU, the consumer needs to carefully review the specifications for the laptop. Is the RAM provided typical SDRAM PC!## or is it DDR SDRAM 266MHz. If you fail to catch this difference you will have a laptop that is in effect very little faster than a Pentium III laptop. The RAM will keep your speeds from reaching the full potential. All M-Tech systems use PC2100 DDR SDRAM 266MHz RAM for you to experience the full speed and performance available in today's technology

What if sir if I have a RAM which is only 533Mhz then my mobo and my processor have 800Mhz, what will happen?

or

What if my processor is 800Mhz FSB then my RAM is 1066Mhz at 1333Mhz FSB?

What if my memory is dual channel, does this mean that the FSB of my RAM would be double?

Does the 533Mhz automatically set to 800Mhz?

i recently attempted to install a amd athlon xp 1700+ on my asus A7A266 MOTHERBOARD, to do a slight upgrade from the 1500+ (1.33 to 1.47ghz, not much, but, better than overclocking it). now, even with the 1500+ put back in it, i cannot get it to boot at all, it will not even post, neither of the two video cards or monitors which where working in/with it before are working now. there is no onboard video, audio, or ETHERNET, the video cards i have tried are a GEFORCE MX440 AGP 4X video card, and a MX4000 PCI card, as i said they worked with the board before, and still function on other boards, but do not function with the A7A266 anymore. i cannot get the board to post with either video card, any of the DDR 266 or SDRAM i have (the board supports both DDR and SD). or with either CPU now. CPU seems to warm up just fine, so does the chipset, i unplugged the CPU fan to test this, sure enough, heatsink got warm. i have tried clearing the CMOS, manually setting the jumper block, ect, i've tried ram sticks in every slot even, still nothing, i have tried removing it from the case and testing it on my wooden desk, still no go, tried two power supplies, no go, both power supplies are good, the motherboard has no on board speaker for beep codes, so i connected one, no beeps with no ram, even though when the board did work i could not get it to give me a beep code without RAM with several speakers. of course, the board has the latest BIOS, and no, there are no bent pins on either of the CPU's, they both work, that i am sure of. i have tried everything i can possibly think of, if anyone knows anything else to try, please tell me. thanks in advance. i have come to the conclusion that the board is likely dead, so i dont need to hear that from someone else unless they can say indefinitely from experience with this exact board that it is dead. if you can help, please do, if not, ask OTHERS, someone is bound to know.

Help needed!
Hi everyone.

My problem is that every time I put a DVD or CD into my DVD-DRIVE, it just take a few seconds, and them my computer shuts down. When I turn it on again, it says: "CPU was previously Shutdown due to thermal event ( Overheating)". My DVD-drive has worked for a long time, but a couple a days ago, it started to do as I described.
I really hope you can help, because it's SO annoying, that I can't use it.
Might try another POWER SUPPLY or cdrom drive as it sounds LIKE one of the two is the culprit.

Alan <>< Quote from: ale52 on October 04, 2007, 08:05:06 AM

Might try another power supply or cdrom drive as it sounds like one of the two is the culprit.

Alan <><

Swap the CD drive into another machine ...if it does the same thing it's the drive.
Swap a known good PSU into your machine of the same wattage or greater...if it does the same thing it's the PSU...

thanks patio ...but donot forget ..My processor : Intel Celeron 2.40 GHZ .and Intel Celeron dosn't support Hyper-Threading Technology , then the DEFAULT options here for my motherboard accept any windows version , so I think with Chinese windows version and harddisk problem in the first MAKED my PC can't accept the english windows ,, I begining repair the problam when I discovered the Chinese windows is xp sp1 , and RETURN to motherboard manual to know what window was recommended for it ,Just need another days to test another windows as Vista , maybe when my harddisk is stability and good performance.

I just got a new computer. I installed XP and then got myself connected to the internet. That is when I noticed that it randomly was shutting itself off. I am able to restart the computer immediatly after and on several occasions was able to use the computer for a long time. To day the computer was shutting down durring the start up. I never get an error message and it will always restart in a normal way each time. I am pretty sure it is not overheating, and I really have not installed any programs on the computer yet. I only installed XP and then some drivers. Any help on this matter would be great. Thanks. Here are the specs for the computer.

AMD X2 64BIT DUAL CORE PROCESSORS AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual-Core Processor 6000+ AM2

AMD PROCESSOR COOLING FAN AMD SOCKET AM2

SOCKET AM2 MOTHERBOARDS ECS GEFORCE 6100SM-M Motherboard

DDR2 RAM AENEON AMPO 2GB (2x1GB) DDR-2 667MHZ PC-5400

COOLMAX MEMORY HEAT SPREADORS

SATA II HARD DRIVES Hitachi/WD 320GB SATA2 7200rpm 16MB CACHE

HARD DRIVE COOLERS SPIRE Dual Fan Cooler for Hard Disk

DVD-RW DRIVES SAMSUNG 18X DVD-RW DUAL LAYER W/LIGHTSCRIBE

PCI-EXPRESS VIDEO CARDS nVidia Ge-Force 7300GS 256MB w/TV-OUT/DVI PCI-Express Video Card

SOUND CARDS 6-CHANNEL DIGITAL SOUND ONBOARD

NETWORK CARDS 10/100 ETHERNET ONBOARD

CASE COOLING FANS THERMALTAKE ULTRA-QUIET CASE FAN

POWER SUPPLIES OKIA A-POWER 600 WATT ATX POWER SUPPLY Welcome to the CH forums.

Sounds like you are blue screening but not seeing the error message because you have auto restart set.

1. Right-click My Computer, and then click Properties.

2. Click the Advanced tab.

3. Under Startup and Recovery, click Settings to open the Startup and Recovery dialog BOX.

4. Clear the Automatically restart check box, and click OK the necessary number of times.

5. Restart your computer for the settings to take effect.

Now when you go to shut down and a fatal error OCCURS, you'll at least see it and it won't cause an automatic reboot. You still have to sort out what's causing the problem.

Good luckThanks for your comment. I am not sure that is the issue. I may not have been clear in my original post. When the computer shuts off it does not reboot automaticaly. I have to turn it back on myself, and it will always turn on as if everything is ok.

I'm helping a friend with his computer and we can't get the button to start the system. He upgraded some THING in his system and he pull the wire loose to install some items. There are three sets of wire green and white with a connecter on the END with pwr led and black and white with a connecter on the end with pwr s/w and red and white with a connecter on the end with hdd led. I'm not sure how these go I don't want to mess anything up. Thanks for any help.You can take a look here: http://www.u22.com/hardarch/sys_box/momboard/boxes/mbatwire/mbatmisp.HTM, but I have to tell you, that if you make one WRONG MOVE, you are gonna fry your motherboard.
It would be helpful to get your motherboard manual, so you know, which pin is for what.Without any info on the system any advice at this point could be dangerous...

Hello

I copied a file which was only 3mb & it took like 5 minutes. Since I have an Intel core 2 Duo 2.66mhz processor, it doesn't seem normal. I recently installed CPU killer, which I used to slow down the processor for a game - but I unistalled it as it made no difference & was wondering if that might have DONE something? In PC Wizard 2008, it's showing my processor running at 1600 mhz instead of 2666 (this was also the speed while I was copying the file).

Concidentally, I've just started getting a warning from my Intel desktop utilities:



Here's PC Wizard showing my processor running at 1600mhz:



What's this all about guys?That's known as throttling, your CPU will slow down and reduce the voltage to decrease heat output and power consumption.
It shouldn't affect your overall speed, as this only happens when it's idle.
Is the computer overall running slower?
Keep checking, measure the speed after doing something demanding and see if it's different.
Also try copying the file again, is it faster or the same?HI, I restarted & tried it again & it's still the the same - slow copying, and now applications are not responding.

The temperature of CPU is 53c - is that normal?

While it was copying, down the bottom the processor activity was showing no more than 10% (if that's helpful?)

I just got a pop up from intel utilities saying 3.3v out of range - *CENSORED* is going on?53C for that CPU is not normal, no.
Follow the instructions here to clean your PC, this will determine whether or not it is a heat problem.The PC isn't dirty, I recently installed a video card & it's squeeky clean inside.

It seems to have somehow returned to normal, I copied the same file & it was instant... weird...

Anyway, thanks for your HELP Calum.Try DosBox for those games...

ok first of all does anybody around here have experience with asus exstreame striker motherboard???
cause i CANT boot and i know its a cpu error. its said i shall use 1,8v 667MHz ram and i shall clear CMOS..
but im not the cleverst to the technical part... anybody who can help me out??Need...more...info...gasp

Operating system / antivirus & antispyware protection / service packs INSTALLED / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software / hardware?

Alan <>< There is a little tiny prob about your help.. i cant give more info.. i cant boot and bios is little difficult to getting into, you see i cant get any IMAGE on the screen EITHER You are supposed to have a Clear CMOS Switch on that motherboard.

LookHere

I read the entire manual--->Now you can.READ PAGE 2-37.

Love,

Robert--->

As the subject suggests I have a PROBLEM with the Canon MP130 printer. Well not actually the printer itself but the built-in card reader. For a while I have had a long pause during startup, also a "USB mass storage device" lost it's driver. I thought it may be due to crap on the computer so I formatted and reloaded Windows XP, but alas to no avail. I then searched google and found the microsoft ARTICLE "Long Pause During Windows Startup Process". So I thought can't do much. Then I found in the hardware profile the entry under the failed usb device "USB\04a9" this turned up results in google to some printer components. I tried changing USB ports on the computer but no good. I then disconnected the USB Printer from the computer, and "voila" the computer started fine and no "USB Mass storage device" error. I do not use the printers card reader so is there anyway to disable the reader.It seems that many people are still getting the 'USB Device not Recognized' problem from time to time. Unfortunately there is no EASY fix.

Firstly, it's recommended that you make sure every one of your MOTHERBOARD drivers are completely up-to-date, but you probably already knew that.

In XP, after a USB port isn't used for a long while the USB driver built into the OS sets the OHCI controller to suspend. When you plug a device back in, it can sometimes fail to 'wake up' properly. This problem was supposedly fixed in SP1 but there is a related registry hack that may still be able to help. (Only edit the registry if you know what you are doing!)

Run regedt32.exe and navigate to;

HKEY_LOCAL_Machine\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Usb

Create the Usb key if it doesn't already exist. Under this key, create a new DWORD VALUE called DisableSelectiveSuspend and give it a value of 1. Then restart the PC.

Ok... I discovered something...(Still, remember, I'm on Vista)
When I OPEN "My Computer", and I right click on my DVD drive in RIGHT pane, there is no "Properties" option, but when I right click on DVD drive in LEFT pane, there is. Here is what I have:

cool thanks for checking.

but yeah you have that recording tab, and i dont.

i just have general, hardware, sharing, and customize

and i read somewhere that i have to have that recording tab to be able to burn anything on WMP.

so i have no idea what to do right now...My conclusion is this:
That window, screenshot of I just posted, is created by Vista. If Vista doesn't create "Recording" button, means to me, that it doesn't recognize your drive, as a burner (compability).
That's the only reason, I can see why I DO have "Recording" tab, and you don't.
You ever looked for Vista drivers for that drive? Do you upgraded to Vista from XP computer?yeah i think your right, it doesnt recognize it.

well i dont know where i can find drivers for it, is it in windows update? because i have all the updates for vista.

well i build this comp from scratch a COUPLE of months ago, i tried installing vista first, but it wouldnt so settled down with xp. then i realized that my motherboard was faulty so it made my comp really unstable and wouldnt let me install vista. after i swapped mobo, i installed vista.

so burning was fine with xp but now that im on vista i cant.

thanks for helping out dudeHey, no prob

Quote

i dont know where i can find drivers for it, is it in windows update?

i found a firmware

I need help UPDATING my ASUS K8N-E Deluxe bios
i DOWNLOADED the update off the website and its neither and iso or EXE.. how do i run it?

http://support.asus.com/download/download_item.aspx?product=1&model=K8N-E%20DeluxeI had the same issue when I downloaded the BIOS file.Let me ask you a question.

Why do you need to update your BIOS?EVERYTHING explained here in layman language:
http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1605Quote

Why do you need to update your BIOS?

Hello,

I have an 2 year old HP PSC 1510 All in one printer, and now when I go to scan images a fuzzy bar SHOWS up on every image I try to scan. I've cleaned the glass over and over, it doesn't seem to EFFECT it. I attached an example. Is my scanner just a goner?

Thanks

Alissa

[Saving disk space - attachment deleted by admin]Is it a printout from scanned image, or an image itself, the way it shows up on your monitor?That's how it appears on my monitor, I haven't had any problems with the printer.I did some SEARCH, and most likely, since that line is in the direction of travel of scanner's HEAD, some sensing element in the
scanning head is dead.
Someone else may have another idea. wow THATS weird.

maybe you should try it on a different comp if it shows the same thing

I just read about something called 'BIOS Flashing'. Somewhere in a document I read that BIOS flashing increases stability of the system.

Could somebody show me how to flash my BIOS?

Here are my system specifications:
---
Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
Version: 5.1.2600
Service Pack: 2.0
Location: C:\WINDOWS
Hot Fix: XpsEPSC

System Model: Presario M2000 (PV297PA#ABG)
BIOS Version: Hewlett-Packard F.14

INTEL(R) Celeron(R) M processor 1.30GHz
Version: X86 Family 6 Model 13 Stepping 6
Speed: 1296 MHz

Domain: MSHOME
Time Zone: Cen. Australia Standard Time
Connection: Workstation (standalone)
Proxy Server:

Memory: 256 MB
---

Thank you.It can improve things; think of it like upgrading a driver for a GRAPHICS card, or upgrading firmware for your CD-ROM drive. However, it can potentially damage the computer so it's best to know what you're doing instead of just jumping into it.

There are a lot of guides to BIOS flashing around; I found one here: http://www.devhardware.com/c/a/Hardware-Guides/Why-and-How-to-Flash-Your-BIOS/Do a read up on the BIOS flash and see what benefits you would get.

If you see no benefits why risk it ?OK, but how do I create a CD Boot Disk?
I don't have a floppy disk drive Quote from: dairyman on OCTOBER 13, 2007, 04:49:53 AM

OK, but how do I create a CD Boot Disk?
I don't have a floppy disk drive

The reference also,goes to flash utility F.22---not F.14 you better be sure.
LookHere

What was I suppose to choose?

one of may many non functional COMPUTERS is a very new dell that i got for free. ..... it wont turn on. , i swaped out the POWER source and still nothing. i was thinking the Mother board went bet when i investigated there where no burns or any such disolored marks on it so i was thwarted again. any one have an ideaSome SPECS would be helpful...

and just because there is no visible damage, like burn marks or discoloration, doesn't mean the motherboard isn't bad.

Do any lights come on or fans spin up?

You said this is "very new." How new EXACTLY? new enough to still be covered under Dell's warranty? if so, I'd let them take care of it.no, it isnt under warrenty and nothing happens no lights no fans no power period but its fine, i TOOK all the parts out of it that are worth anything and junked the rest i make one good computer.So are you saying you no longer need assistance ? ?

I took my new computer parts down to a comuter repair man to install. He installed the motehrboard and called to tell me I needed DDR2 memory. The day before the memory arrived he told me to take the computer home since everything was connected except the memory and I could do that myself. The memory CAME and I did it mysef, but when I booted up the computer it brought up the old hard DRIVE and the old windows program.

I want to use my new SATA drive which is hooked up but it does not appear in my windows explorer.

Can anybody give me a blow by blow list of what I need to do to initiate my new Sata drive

Sandy in FLSure...
But we're gonna need some important INFO first.
Is the SATA drive new ? ?
If not does it have an OS installed on it ?
What OS is on the original drive ?
Do you want the SATA to be just for extra storage or would you LIKE to have it as the main drive with your OS and all info and programs on it ?
Or would you like to start clean with the SATA drive as your boot drive and if so what OS do you want to install ?

Let us know.

hi every1,

I got a maxtor 250gig hd that the logic board went out on, i got one with the same firmware and main controller a M8fyb and the firmware was yar41bwo, well i got my new logic board and swapped them out(alot easier than i thought it was going to be) put it back TOGETHER and hooked it into my pc. Booted up and bios reconized it, NICE. Windows boots and i see the drive has its original name and everything iam happy as all *censored*, well windows installs new hardware and prompts me to reboot. so i reboot and then i get the s.m.a.r.t command failed error and go into windows after hitting f1. I can no longer access the drive windows prompts me to format the drive........Im not certain what happend but any help would be great....


PC specs

intel 2.6 GHZ duel core
nvidia 7950 gx2
1gig of ram


thx a billion.....l8rWhat's the error? Kindly post the error so that we can help you.I would say you may have gotten lucky with the logic board swap.
This has only worked for me about 10% of the attempts i have made.
The SMART failure is not a good sign
I would prepare to do quick backups of the data hooking it up as a slave drive on a known working machine.
But be ready ...you may only get one more chance...
The more you try to use that drive the farther AWAY your data becomes.i stated the error ( s.m.a.r.t. command failure) also i forgot to mention that when i do get into windows the drive posts as local drive :h and when i click on it iam asked if i want to format this drive, i select no.......iam certain that the info is gone but iam hopeful oh and patio, the drive has always been a back up drive never been boot drive so ive hooked it up to my pc to do a transfer to a new external. but like i SAID when i click on the drive iam asked to format the drive sigh thx every1
When you right clik the drive in Disk Management and select properties how is it being REPORTED ? ?
I hope it's not RAW...

I have had to replace the POWER supply in my HP Pavilion xt963 computer. Unfortunately, I removed the old one a couple of months ago and just replaced today, but am not sure all connectors are connected correctly.
When I connect my monitor, the monitor does not COME on. The power light is yellow. I have tried two monitors with the same result, so I'm sure there is a problem with the connectors.
Does anyone know where i can find a diagram showing the connections?

ThanksDoesn't sound good.

Maybe the BIOS is not functioning properly?
If you turn on the computer, do you receive several BEEPS?I do receive several beepsFind the manuf. of your MBoard and DLoad an owners manual...they will have a wiring diagram...Standard (Non-Dell) AT and ATX power supplies are all wired the same.

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/partsMotherboard-c.html

http://transtronics.com/reference/atx_pinout.htm

Quote from: dj on October 13, 2007, 07:29:13 AM

I do receive several beeps

So I decided to format and reinstall WINDOWS Vista Basic 32-Bit on my Dell Vostro 1400 laptop. After reinstalling Windows and all the drivers for the devices, I find that the integrated webcam doesn't work for some reason. Going into Dell Webcam Center, I SET it to any of the modes (video, photo capture, etc.) and while the blue light next to the cam lights up, no picture appears, only a black BOX where the picture is supposed to be shows up.

The microphone works, and Windows' DEVICE Manager indicates the driver is working properly with no driver problems. I update the driver for the webcam through Windows Update, and it STILL doesn't work. The webcam is manufactured by Creative Technology Ltd. I didn't check if the webcam worked before reinstalling, so I don't know if the webcam is physically broken or is it just a driver problem?

Thanks for any help.

I want to upgrade from 450 to 733MHz cpu. There are no DIP switches on the motherboard. There are links on the motherboard and one is bios. Am I right that I NEED to stop the system clock and this LINK must be USED. Also that I must change cpu setting in cmos. Quote from: vinylzappa on October 13, 2007, 01:41:12 PM

There are links on the motherboard and one is bios. Am I right that I need to stop the system clock and this link must be used.

Why is it that when I delete something in Flash drive or FLOPPY, the file that I deleted wasn't there in Recycle Bin, why?Recycle Bin concerns only your hard drive (C:). There is no RB on floppies, or flash drives.
However, if you deleted something important from your floppy, it's not gone, until you overwrite that floppy with some other data.
If you left that floppy ALONE, your file is still there, and can be un-deleted with some recovery programs.I've not tried this (no NEED for it), but a possible work around might work you. Locate the Send To folder. In this folder CREATE a shortcut for c:\Recycle Bin. This should give you the option in the right click menu to send a file to the Recycle Bin, no MATTER where the file is located.

Hi GUYS! THANK you for welcoming me.

How does a computer mouse REALLY WORK? or may i say
what really happen during when i click on the mouse button and until i get a feedback on the monitor that i clicked???

kaYgeehttp://computer.howstuffworks.com/mouse.htm

Hi, THANKS for reading.

Recently, my monitor has been showing coloured static gibberish blocks that covers my ENTIRE monitor. At first I thought my monitor was dying, however, the problem does not resolve itself when i power on/off my monitor. INSTEAD the only way to resolve it is to reboot my system multpile times.

I've ran through virus scans and spy ware, however did not resolve the problem. Few DAYS ago, I can't get it to work now even after countless rebootin. Its just gibberish all the way.

Please help me pinpoint the problem. Is it monitor side or CPU side? Thanks in advance Is it possible for you to plug the monitor into another computer and test it? Or borrow another monitor to plug into your computer and test? That would be the best way of LOCATING the problem.Sounds like a failing graphics card to me...
But try as suggested above to rule out the monitor.
Next step would be to remove a side panel and see if the fan on the vid card is still operating.
If it is then installing the vid card into another machine is how to test the card.
If it does the same thing the card is headed South...