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The motherboard in my Dell died and the computer has no power. I've been told it's not worth replacing.

I have two hard drives installed in it. Drive "C" has Windows XP (SP2) and other important applications. Drive "F" has gigs of files on it. I do not have any backups of either. (lesson learned!)

I just ordered a new computer (with the same OS and the old) with one 320 gig hard drive. I desperately need to get all the contents from both of those drives onto the new one.

My question is ... Can I install these drives into my new computer and just copy over what files or apps I need over to the new hard drive?

Help!Yes that shouldn't be a problem. You could also just install the hard drives in the new computer and use them for storage.

One thing though, You just can't copy over programs you had installed on the old computer to the new one. Your applications will have to be reinstalled one the new computer in order to function properly.Thanks for the quick reply! I had a feeling I'd have to install all apps again.

More questions ...

Since the primary drive "C" had Windows XP on it, if I install this drive into my new computer, won't it conflict with XP already installed on the new drive?

Is it POSSIBLE to run the apps from the old hard drive once installed on the new computer without having to actually reinstall them on the new hard drive?

As you suggested, I would like to keep the bigger of the two drives for extra storage.

THANKS!Quote from: tazz on October 06, 2007, 09:55:40 AM

Since the primary drive "C" had Windows XP on it, if I install this drive into my new computer, won't it conflict with XP already installed on the new drive?

Is it possible to run the apps from the old hard drive once installed on the new computer without having to actually reinstall them on the new hard drive?

I have an hp cd - writer / dvd-rom combo on my computer and I am able to play and hear dvd's but I cannot play audio cd's or COPY files to a cd.
Am I missing a drive? and how can I get it running again? PLease help I am doing a project and need to copy files.
It is an HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4481B
When I tried to reinstall driver I recived message Exception in DisplayRunMap.runmap.
I do not have another computer to test device.
Can you recommend a cheep external cd rw and or dvd combo? Some burners have more than one laser diode in them and it's not uncommon for one or both to BURN out...common SYMPTOMS would be what you describe.
To test this swap it into another working machine...if it will not burn a CD the drive has FAILED.

Just curious, when it comes to a video card what would be more important for performance....

a higher clock speed (720MHz w/ 256MB)

or

higher memory (540MHz w/ 512MB)

which would be the better card?

Those would average out to about even with the ADVANTAGE if any to the second one...so i would say price would be the determining factor.Quote from: patio on October 11, 2007, 02:42:28 PM

Those would average out to about even with the advantage if any to the second one...so i would say price would be the determining factor.

I have ATI Xpress 200 graphics card. Integrated graphics card, which is part of my mother board. How do I disable it to install new graphics card?

People have said that they have installed new graphics card and as a result, integrated graphics card is automatically disabled, freeing up the memory that would have been used by graphics card and old graphics card is no longer being recognized by computer as being in use.

I have phoenix bios. I am on page that I can see that onboard video memory is 64mb, which is the memory from the ram sticks eaten up by the ATI graphcs card I have. I see another place where I can choose primary video type: PCI, PCI-E or something else. Is that how you can disable integrated graphics card? There is no disable / enable option I can find in bios. Don't wanna screw bios up and have my computer not working.

Some people have say that they disable by using disable option that is available in device manager of windows, which I see too.

What is going on?I had a similar problem, in that I couldn't actually disable my integrated graphics.
What I did was install the new cad, and set my primary video type to AGP (the type I used, you will probably be using PCI-E s set it to that).
Then I booted to Windows and the integrated graphics had been disabled.
Hope this HELPS.Quote from: Calum on October 11, 2007, 03:57:38 AM

I had a similar problem, in that I couldn't actually disable my integrated graphics.
What I did was install the new cad, and set my primary video type to AGP (the type I used, you will probably be using PCI-E s set it to that).
Then I booted to Windows and the integrated graphics had been disabled.
Hope this helps.

You simply go to Device Manager, right click on your video chipset, click "Disable". Confirm.
Turn off your computer, install your new video card. Turn computer on, and Windows will install your new video card.

you sure it works?

Intel P4/1.6 - Intel D845BG mobo - Intel bios - Windows XP Home - Alpha UPS.

I disabled the auto internet time sync feature in XP and now find that the clock is fast by about 30 secs per week. I know it's the wrong WAY ROUND if the cmos battery needs to be replaced but it was replaced and made no difference, the time still gets ahead of itself.

OK it's no big deal, am not running any time-dependent programs, it's just boldoy baffling. Could the 'problem' be caused by a VARIATION in the mains power VOLTAGE or frequency, I understood the psu would take care of those? The UPS gives no 'out of range' indication.

Thanks


Windows has time keeping errors.
If everything else is running fine i wouldn't be concerned.
The CMOS battery keeps the system time and has no effect on Windows.

I use the wall clock...

my computer is to slow to RUN programs like any of the cs3's i was going to invest in a new computer but i THOUGHT it may be cheaper for a new motherboard and maybee a core duo procs. and like 2 gigs of ram instead of my max of 1gig. can anyone help with selectiong this motherboard with compatible pros?Be very careful! Dell owners may not realise that many Dell MOTHERBOARDS and POWER supplies (PSUs) use non-standard wiring. The connectors are the same, but they are wired differently. This means that if you put a non-Dell motherboard in a Dell case with the Dell PSU still there, and try to power it up, when you press the power switch, you may destroy the motherboard.

So you may have to change the PSU at the same time. Therefore, you may think it is a better idea to sell the Dell and BUY a new set of parts, or remove the disk drives etc from the Dell and use them again.

From Microsoft:
Quote

1.Log on to Windows as Administrator.
2.Click Start, point to All PROGRAMS, point to Accessories, point to System Tools, and then click System Restore. System Restore starts.
3.On the Welcome to System Restore page, click Restore my computer to an earlier time (if it is not already selected), and then click Next.
4.On the Select a Restore Point page, click the most recent system checkpoint in the On this list, click a restore point list, and then click Next. A System Restore message may appear that lists CONFIGURATION CHANGES that System Restore will make. Click OK.
5.On the Confirm Restore Point Selection page, click Next. System Restore restores the previous Windows XP configuration, and then restarts the computer.
6.Log on to the computer as Administrator. The System Restore Restoration Complete page appears.
7.Click OK.

Something was installed in the middle of the night when I was asleep

Some kind of malware perhaps?

Note: I don't know if this is a software or hardware problem yet.

Problem description:
When I run certain applications, primarily 3D games, I get some odd graphics artefacts - little boxes or lines of white or other color here and there on the screen for example. Sometimes they are stationary, other times they move AROUND or flicker. There are never any problems with displaying video, either in games, at youtube or in windows media player. The problem only occurs in some games, primarily 3D games.

There are ALSO sometimes problems with sound - usually the sound starts looping indefinitely or a persistent high-pitched noise is played; it is often preceded by "scratching" noises. This occurs sometimes in games, but less often and more intermittently than the graphics problem. It also occurs in other applications - eg. playing music in windows media player. This error seems to almost always occur when music is played either by a game or an application, it's just a matter of time.

During newer games, the games often run unusually slowly, but this can vary.
Some games REFUSE to run outright, or cause a reboot (I've set windows to give blue screen of death in stead of rebooting automatically now, will inform if I get any BSOD error data). Others can hang the system, forcing a hard reset. (Num Lock key doesn't turn on/off the LED, and the computer does not respond to Alt-Tab, Windows key or Ctrl-Alt-Del even if repeated)

My system:
AMD Athlon Barton 3000+
ASUS A7N8X-X motherboard (includes onboard sound card)
2x512 MB PC3200 DDR RAM
80 GB Maxtor 7200 rpm HDD, 8 MB buffer
Samsung 52x CD-RW drive
Codegen 6066 CA tower, 300 W PSU
Club 3D nVidia GeForce 7600 GT AGP video card, 256 MB GDDR3 memory. - NOTE: Problem originally arose with my old nVidia GeForceFX5700 Ultra video card, and was more severe then; I have tested the new card in another computer where it works just fine.

Running Windows XP SP2
DirectX9.0c
Forceware 163.71 graphics driver from nVidia, WHQL certified.

Antivirus: AVG.
Spyware programs: Ad-Aware and Spybot Search & Destroy.
Firewall: Comodo Firewall Pro.

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions as to what could be wrong or how I can go about troubleshooting the issue.Travel Here just to see,,,

It's a wild hunch but i'm hitting better than the Yankees did in the post season so far this month...It recommends 235 W. That's with my motherboard set as high end desktop, and none of the stuff plugged into my externally powered USB hub counted.
Plus it would be strange if power was the problem since it got better when I upgraded my graphics card (I bet my new card uses a lot more power than my old one).

But I appreciate the suggestion. That link might come in handy some other time as well Quote from: Sakkura on October 12, 2007, 06:00:09 PM

Plus it would be strange if power was the problem since it got better when I upgraded my graphics card (I bet my new card uses a lot more power than my old one).

I have tested the new card in another computer where it works just fine.

Quote from: Sakkura on October 12, 2007, 04:13:53 PM

I have tested the new card in another computer where it works just fine.

Have you tried this while playing Rome on the other computer. And what was the PSU wattage on it.

And, what is the resolution set to in the game settings? Is Anti Aliasing on? Shadowing Effects?

Would it be possible to UPGRADE an AMD64 3500+ processor to an AMD64 X2 processor without changing the motherboard?

I have an Aberine M motherboard (The motherboard that comes with the preconfigured SR1630NX computer)


I am just wondering about compatibility, whether or not the motherboard has the right sockets and whether or not I need anything else like new connectors, new fan, jumpers, etc. And what model of the AMD64 X2 would you recommend in terms of performance and price?

I am not going to upgrade anytime soon but I am just wondering ....

Thanks!

Have you tried visiting the manufacturer's website of your motherboard to see if it will, in fact, support the upgrade you have in mind?

Once you find the product specifications for your motherboard on their site...you should be able to determine if the upgrade is feasible.yeah my motherboard does accept that upgrade I have in mind, whenever I actually find the time to go buy it and install it...

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/genericDocument?docname=c00461460&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&jumpid=reg_R1002_USEN

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00496280&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=&product=1831241

These two websites from HP confirms it.

So, if I ever do it, what model of the AMD64 X2 is recommended in terms of price and performance?

Well...

Here's two you can look at.

The first one seems to be the better processor and for ten dollars more...the better of the two...though you PROBABLY won't notice a performance difference.Quote from: The Saviour on October 05, 2007, 11:29:16 PM

Well...

Here's two you can look at.

The first one seems to be the better processor and for ten dollars more...the better of the two...though you probably won't notice a performance difference.

Quote from: The Saviour on October 05, 2007, 11:29:16 PM

Well...

Here's two you can look at.

The first one seems to be the better processor and for ten dollars more...the better of the two...though you probably won't notice a performance difference.

Actually, he's going to need all the juice he can get to run today's programs with an X2.
I suggest that he buy a Zalman CNPS7700, or 9700 and overclock to at least 2.5Ghz.

Quote from: Jess607 on October 05, 2007, 11:58:00 PM

Quote from: The Saviour on October 05, 2007, 11:29:16 PM

Well...

Here's two you can look at.

The first one seems to be the better processor and for ten dollars more...the better of the two...though you probably won't notice a performance difference.

Actually, he's going to need all the juice he can get to run today's programs with an X2.
I suggest that he buy a Zalman CNPS7700, or 9700 and overclock to at least 2.5Ghz.

I just updated your post to provide links to the CPU cooling fans you're referring to...may benefit the OP.

I am not a gamer myself, but I've ALWAYS been interested in increased performance based on what the end user was/is going to be doing, primarily.

Though I see both (Ranken and Jess) of your POINTS, I believe this argument should be RESERVED for a case-by-case scenario. There are certain users that would benefit more from a lot of RAM and perhaps a 3000 Mhz CPU, and there are others that might do better with an overclocked CPU with just a gig of RAM.

Do we have any performance experts on the boards? Someone who knows what would be beneficial for a heavy media user (music/movies) versus, say, someone who only pllays GAMES? Surely there are different recommended specs including amt of RAM, type of GPU, and speed of single, dual, or quad CORE processor. I give the floor to someone who really knows.

Names, numbers, anything to identify the motherboard.Quote

Motherboard Chipset UNKNOWN

Motherboard Name Unknown

So, I assume this means I should reset the BIOS - Which I did, but I'm still getting the 2-1-1-1 error sound.
Although, the weird thing is - when I GOT this, it was right after my video card was accidently nudged... Okay, I WENT out and BOUGHT a new GFX card, but I'm still getting the 2-1-1-1 post code.
Any ideas? I assume, it's Phoenix BIOS.
What exactly happened to your video card?
2-1-1-1 Faulty motherboard or one of its componentsYeah its Phoenix.
I was CLEANING, yes my PC was on, yes I'm a moron, and I accidentally nudged my graphics card, it wasn't even that hard...Quote

I was cleaning, yes my PC was on

Hi,
I have a Samsung 193P 19" lcd monitor, it's about two years old. It runs in parallel with my Samsung 193T off a dual output videocard.
Both monitors were working fine last night, I powered everything down and unplugged the whole lot when I was done.
Today the 193P doesn't recieve power. There's only so many ways to check the power connection, and they have all been exhausted, the thing just isn't getting any juice, no lights, no signal nothing.

Is this a common problem, and is replacing the power adaptor/plug, my only chance?You MEAN the monitor is dead? You plug it into the AC and when you press the power button nothing happens? SOUNDS like it has failed and needs repairing or REPLACEMENT. You SEEM to be saying it has an external power adaptor, is that correct?

if you have samsung's warranty left over, ASK samsung to fix it!

if you want, maybe you take your monitor to computer store, preferrably one that will check / diagnose / give you quote for free.

I think this may have been posted before, but did anyone find a solution?

I can play music on my computer. But when i go to a website on internet like youtube, video plays but I hear no sound. Sound card is not broken, audio cables are ok, sound settings on windows is ok. I was watching youtube with sound and video working at 3 on the afternoon then I talked to a friend on skype.

An hour later, I went back to youtube to look up a video, but there was no sound. What is going on?One TINY DETAIL....(sorry for sounding so harsh if I do and sounding like you are dumb...) but...the sound on the youtube video is turned up? The players store a LITTLE COOKIE that keeps the volume down if it's been put there...Yes, it is. I LOAD one video and I was hearing sound. I load exact same video one hour later and there is no sounde?! I changed none of the settings except for the sound settings on skype!!i fixed it by using system restore on windows

Hi,

I have a question.
I have a Laptop (1.5GHz processor, 256MB RAM running windows XP SP2). I also have an external hard drive of 160GB (usb 2.0). The plan is, I want to install another OS (Win XP or Win SERVER 2003 Enterprise Edition) on the extrernal hard drive AND connect it to the laptop ...
1) Would it GIVE me boot options at startup if its XP - XP(laptop) or Server 2003 - XP(laptop)?

2) I want to install some softwares like SQL Server 2005. If I just connect the hard drive to the laptop & install the software on the external drive, some registry files would still be installed in the C:(laptop) drive & hence I cannot attach the external drive to another computer, is that right ?It is a chore to get XP to boot from an external drive...i suspect the same for Windows Server Edition.
What is your level of expertise and patience ? ?Good to hear from you.
Well, I'm not an expert but I can handle the OS INSTALLATION and BIOS settings. I understand these things take time ... and we might have to experiment & I would have started it by now.

I was hoping to get some answers before I start to install & try it out as I have some data in that external drive.First you will need to determine if your motherboard supports booting to a USB device.
Second i would back up all the data from the external as you probably want to start with an empty drive.Is there any way one could install any software on the external drive (e:), without any files on the c: drive ?Most if not all software should install without problems on an external hdd. Just point the software installer to the external drive and install...

There are considerations to take though. If the drive letter for the external drive should change the software installed on it will most likely cease to function. This is easily fixable though by reassigning the old drive letter to the hdd.Quote from: Deerpark on October 04, 2007, 03:35:52 PM

If the drive letter for the external drive should change the software installed on it will most likely cease to function. This is easily fixable though by reassigning the old drive letter to the hdd.

I'm sorry I dont get that .. ? When you install a s/w on another drive (e:), some files do write in the system in the C: drive, isnt it ? .... & thats how the dependency rises. Pls clarify.

That doesn't mean that some wannabee teenage uber-geek won't google for, and paste on here, some forum post somewhere in which some masochist actually eventually managed to make some particular hardware combination do it, sort of, but the practical answer is, for people with lives, forget it.

okay, an alternate thought.

Could I connect the external drive to a desktop (P3 config) & install XP on it (OR is it the same thing that it CANNOT be done) ?

So yeah, I'm DECIDING to upgrade the RAM on my notebook: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834220182

I'm not sure which I should get (I'm leaning toward PATRIOT), and also I NEED to MAKE SURE that it's compatible.go to www.crucial.com and use their memory tool. They'll tell you what kind of memory that is compatible. So you can just simply FIND out exactly what memory TYPE you need.

I have a Acer x241w connected to a Ati Radeon 1300 video card. My problem is that about every 60 seconds or so a grey box appears on my monitor with "no signal" in it and then about 10 seconds later the monitor will shut down and reboot.You need to check that the monitor connection into the video slot is secure...check the power connection as well.
If it CONTINUES hook up the monitor to ANOTHER machine.
If it does the same THING then the monitor is DYING...if not i would suspect the video card/chipIt happened to me. It was bad video cable in my case.

hello
i have a computer problem which i cannot figure out. i thought maybe you guys could help me out. i have no idea whats wrong. i have a brand new computer, except the cpu. its a year old 531 PENTIUM 4. i have 2 gigs kingston valueram ddr2 667. tested with memtest86; no problems. an antec trio 650w psu. just bought because of this problem thought it may help. x1950 pro 256mb pci-e sapphire vc; ARTIFACT tested with atitool for 20 minutes. no errors. idle/load 49C/67C. pentium 4 531 cpu; tested with prime95 3:30 hours. no errors. asrock conroe945g-dvi motherboard. the problem is i play call of duty 2, only on a server, well one server with 40 players, and a 3 second respawn. and i play battlefield 2 on 64 player servers. my computer idle/load temps are 46C/59C. during battlefield 2 my video card temps are 54C. during call of duty 2 my vc temps are 65C. during both games my computer will start skipping; it will skip like a cd. and doesn't respond. i have to hard reboot my computer. it started as only call of duty doing this after maybe 2 hours of play. it got worse until it was around 30 minutes. then i played battlefield 2 until i was sick of it. the went back and played call of duty 2. within 10 minutes my computer was skipping. i went back to battlefield 2. before this i could play for 8 hours straight with no computer problems. after going and playing call of duty 2 and it making my computer skip within 10 minutes, battlefield 2 was making my computer skip within an hour and a half. now its at around fifty minutes. and call of duty 2 on that one server its 10 minutes until my computer skips. anyone ever heard of this. and does anyone know what my computer problem could be. i was thinking cpu. it had heat problems before, and i wasnt too good at putting on the heatsink at first. my motherboard shut down the cpu though before the temperatures got real hot. and the heat problem was dust, and i bought compressed air, and the error went away. i have tried blowing the video card heatsink out, and ive cleaned the heatsink on the cpu. ive lowered my room temperatures, and used a room fan on an open case. one night i got battlefield 2 to play for around 4 or 5 hours. with a cool room. but recently nothing makes my computer keep from skipping. here is a video i made 5 minutes long of my computer skipping. http://youtube.com/watch?v=Xv_t3m7fJJw THANKSI quote* i have a brand new computer, except the cpu.

i was thinking cpu

i wasnt too good at putting on the heatsink at first.

One common sense approach is " is the inside of your case a freakin mess? Do you have ide cables blocking AIRFLOW inside there and a somewhat hot room ? Are you using a stock heatsink/ fan or a better one like Zalman or others? Did you* reset the old cpu in there and / or use artic 5 or a good paste?

Get very descriptive in your response and more info if you omitted before * THanksok more info on computer. i just learned how to put a p4 heatsink on. .. just now. well the last time i reseated it. before i would never get the pins locked in. i have it seated well right now. using artic silver 5 thermal paste. my computer is the only component out of these games, that has the same temperature when playing these games. i know battlefield 2 can be hard on a computer when playing single player. and call of duty 2 is more video card hungry but should also use the computer. my idle temps, are 48C and load is 59C. for my computer. im using stock intel heatsink. beside not having the luxury of having a good heatsink i have gotten my room to freezing temperatures before with the side of my case off with a room fan the big 2'x2' fan. idle temps then where 28C. i don't know what load temps where, i think i alt+tabbed out once, and temps where around 48C. still then my pc skipped. my computer case, is pretty well kept. i bought compressed air, and blow out dust when it accumulates. case isnt really a mess, but the airflow, well theres not much. it has one 80mm fan in the back sucking air out, but right now theirs no side on the case. room is cool its cold outside and my windows are open.
myheat problem i had once was dust, and first i got bsod and the error mentioned my videocard. this was old parts same cpu. i reinstalled my video drivers and my problem went away for like 4 days but then my computer was rebooting. and prime95 couldnt run 10 minutes without giving me an error. well, i figured dust, bought compressed air, and blew out the heatsink, actually i think it was malformed. so i used the heatsink i got with my computer, same stock intel heatsink. and i blew out what dust was on it, and no more rebooting. anyway, i have took my heatsink off twice, once to clean dust, second time, because i thought the old thermal grease looked in bad shape. and i cleaned what dust i saw, and cleaned the grease off the heatsink and cpu and put fresh coat. still i get this skip. my case is pretty neat. i have sleeved cables. the ide are moved out of the way. ill take a pciture!

[Saving disk space - attachment deleted by admin]well you have more infO on MY COMPUTER than about yours. does anyone have an idea?
i mean any heres some more info on what i did recently. i have my computer air conditioned. 24C cpu temps. 29C video card temps. thats idle. i usually get an extra 10-15C temperature jumps when i set them on load. i mean every bit of my computer is cooled. still i got an extra 4 minutes of play time on battlefield 2. rather than 50 it was 54 minutes. i ran everest and logged my cpu temps while playing. theirs no big jump in temperatures before my computer skips. and ive logged my video card temps. the temperatures stay around my idle load temps. no real big increase in temps before the skipping.
recently battlefield 2 is making it about 30-40 minutes before skipping. ive tried some cooling, and bought a new power supply. oktype of HDD?? how much space is left?Space Left On [C: 60.78/186.31 GB. D: 25.62/76.33 GB. Total: 86.4/262.64 GB]
both maxtor 7200 rpm. the 80g is a diamondback 9 the other is maxtor basics. but my hardrive wont cause this error. im not having any other problems. this is my problem with two games. and with battlefield 2 any server with full players. on cod2 only on servers where you instant respawn. actually the other day i was playing search and destroy. once you die you don't respawn until the next round. i specced the first round. second i died early on by gun. and third same, i was speccing after this everyone was talking, then my computer crashed. with about 4 players left on each team. it happens on punkbuster and not punkbuster protected servers. i have reinstalled battlefield 2 and deleted any folders left to get rid of any files. and fresh installed and patched. and game still skips. How much did you spend on that PSU ? ?thats totally irrevelant. you know the brand name. i posted that in the first post. but if your willing to reimburse me ill be sure to just send me all the money you have ill send back the extra. if it's not enough just keep sending and once youve reimbursed me ill be sure to send any money extra. once youve hit the mark, and not over, then if you send more money hehehee ill send it back youll know youve hit the mark. Well with the excellent punctuation and sentence structure it was a little hard to find out what PSU you have.
Actually it's a bit hard to make any sense of it at all.
Quote from: ldrancer on September 15, 2007, 04:28:15 AM

an antec trio 650w psu. just bought because of this problem thought it may help.

Yes you are right, it is the "M Pro" version

I downloaded your links and installed the audio driver. The BEEP continued. I then installed the chipset and checked that the AC97 audio was disabled in the Bios - beep still continued. I havent installed the video graphics card yet.

The model is MT-M 6220-24G, so the drivers should be the right ones. I WENT to the Accessories - Volume and it still said there is no mixer components installed (same with audio recorder).

I then went to "Sounds and audio" and re-activated several windows sounds, so that the speaker-symbol now reappears - still no improvement.

Also the Hardware-assistant only found me an unknown component which I think I had before. I tried to re-install a driver for it but windows couldnt allocate anything. The is no information whatsoever on it accept in the details it mentions ACPI\ASF0001\2&DABA3FF&0 - but this might not even have anything to do with the audio. So I deactivated the device.

I googled that and I CAME up with this link http://www.experts-exchange.com/Software/System_Utilities/Drivers/Q_22616462.html
"IBM Alert Standard Format".

Alert !? Hmmm... sounds like it could do with the beeping noise.... I'll install the drivers under http://www-1.ibm.com/support/docview.wss?uid=psg1MIGR-43364 and let you know if this works.OK - I MANAGED to install it and the unknown driver has disappeared. It did say something about "ASF table"-driver, do you know what that means?

I now activated the AC97 sounds in the BIOS and.... finally.... the sounds in Windows were back! I deactivated the tone to have a quiet PC back again. Many thanks Kurtiskain ! Our employee will be so happy to return back to an unannoying PC on Monday Yes that was what you needed to do forgot you turned it off in the BIOS

And you are very welcome!!
Come back anytime
KurtisBy the way, do you know what the ASF-table is GOOD for, that was installed on the unknown IBM device?I actually do not know...I believe it has something in common with the old WAVE Tables for the old Creative cards...Never really understood what those did either...This is under Multimedia adaptors?never mind - i am sure this is no security issue.
This thread can be closed now - thumbs up!

Hello,

I'd like some help.

In the past few weeks, a good fairy visited my classroom and supplied me with a video data projector, a document camera, and a new computer!

For the time being, I am unplugging my monitor from the computer and plugging in a VGA cable which has a wall connector and is wired to my ceiling-installed video data projector.

Then, when I got the document camera, I tried connecting it to the video data projector with a c-video connector. The resolution was not good enough.

So YESTERDAY, I unplugged the monitor, plugged in the VGA cable to the data projector, showed some stuff, unplugged the VGA cable from the computer and plugged it into the document camera to show what was under the lens, then back to the computer, etc. It's too cumbersome and keeps me in the corner of the room where the outlets are that lead to the video data projector.

Essentially, I have two outputs -- computer and document camera. and two inputs -- monitor and data projector, though I understand that I could plug the document camera into the computer and view that output on the monitor. Actually, the tech (who has since left for a better position) did that briefly.

The bottom line is that I have one VGA connection to the projector. This is on the wall in the corner. The computer and document camera are currently within 6 ft, but I would like to move the camera over a couple more feet.

My question is: what CABLES, BOXES, etc do I need so that I can have access to the images on the screen and on the monitor without having to unplug and plug every 5 MINUTES? Where do I get this? What kind of quality do I need, should look for, etc? And what am I likely to pay?

Thank you so much for your help with this.



You just need SOMETHING called VGA switch. It should run around 20 bucks, maybe less.You said you tried with c-video..you mean s-video right? anyway shouldn't make a difference, you graphics card should support changing to separate resolutions on both lines...my ATi9200SE does and its fairly old...so try that again....to manage dual monitors, right click desktop > properties > settings

Okay, so here's the thing. My sound card won't work on one of my computers. Surprise, surprise, I know. The deal is, is that everything seems to CHECK out. Device drivers, the whole 9 yards. I've unintalled, and reinstalled several times. I've even done a clean install of the OS. Nothing has helped. It's not that big of a deal, I can just use one of the other computers to do what I need, but I'm real *censored* about everything I own working correctly. I'm thinking it's just bad onboard sound card. Any suggestions? I'm running Windows XP SP2, and it's RealTek AC'97 Audio.

Thanks for any advice.You said it on board yeah .... hmmmm

Is it possiable to download the lastest drivers off the internet rather than an install cd...

But i think you right dud sound card Onboard and sound card are 2 different things...you either have 1 or the other.
If it's onboard sound...might as well just get a new sound card.

patio's right...onboard means it's build right onto your motherboard. a sound card is a discrete PCB board that goes (usually) into a PCI slot.RealTek AC'97 Audio is an onboard chipset.
So, you are saying, there are no errors listed in Device Manager? Updated drivers?SORRY, for my typographical error I made earlier about sound card. I was really tired when I typed that. Anyway, yes it IS onboard sound, and yes there are no errors in the device manager, and yes I have the latest drivers. My only concern is, well actually two, is that one, if I get a sound card it won't work for whatever reason. And two I don't want to spend money on something I might not need. So if there is a solution to my problem other than buying a sound card, I would like to know.only thing i can recommend is to check the BIOS settings, but, i can say from experience, the RealTek AC97 system is prone to failure. especially when used with an SiS chipset motherboard, the SiS chipset in and of its self sucks, and is a total nightmare, when combined with the AC97 audio, its just a freaking joke, its not hardly usable, trust me, if you have an SiS chipset motherboard, which i am hoping isn't the case, your going to have A LOT more PROBLEMS with it. only thing i can recommend is to find a PCI or USB sound card to test it with, if nothing else, buy one from www.newegg.com
Couple of question.
Have your sound EVER worked?
How old is your computer, and what OS are you with?
Now...
If you go into the device manager, double-click on the AC''97 sound driver and open the properties tab. Expand the "Audio Devices" node and double-click on your audio device. Doesn't it say: "Driver is enabled but has not been started"?marco: ( just in case this is a really simple solution).... you checked to make sure that your volume isn't muted anywhere, right? Not being condescending, just making sure you've taken all the right steps and are sure you are getting no sound.Not to try and sound mean myself, no, I am not that dumb, the sound is not muted anywhere. Yes, my sound has worked before, but perhaps I did something to it when I took everything out of it. Maybe I should mention that I put this computer back together from spare parts laying around. Though device manager SAYS everything is peachy. The only thing that does not work is sound. I don't think the OS is the problem, because I've reinstalled everything from 2000, to Vista x86. Nothing, nada, zip. At any rate it is a Gigabyte board, that is NVIDIA nForce 3 250 series, ver 1.2, if that helps any. I think I will try and hunt down a sound card to test with and see if that helps in the mean time. If I can get it to work, it's probably the onboard sound is bad.Quote

I think I will try and hunt down a sound card to test with and see if that helps in the mean time. If I can get it to work, it's probably the onboard sound is bad.

So I have these lines on my screen and I don't know what caused them. One day I started it up and this is what is I saw.

I tried to uninstall and reinstall the video card drivers, but that didn't work. I tried to replace the monitor with an extra, and still the same problem. I have a picture of this, but it will not let me upload it. Those who would like to see it, please email me and I will email you a copy...

Anyone have suggestions?

Thanks

Justin
If you switched it out with another monitor and you still got the same thing, it's obviously a video card problem.

What kind of card is this?

actually, full system specs would help out alot.

are these just a few lines that show up in one constant spot on the screen? or do they take up the whole screen? are they moving or stationary?

a little more detail would go a long WAY.Also...if you could EDIT the image...you may be ABLE to post the one you're trying to upload to the forum.

I'm not sure what the restrictions are to image size...but you could also post the image at "photobucket" and leave a link...this way we could see exactly what you're referring to.Never thought about photobucket. Included is a picture of what it looks like. There are lines that follow the cursor at times and then they just go away. How exactly do I do the full specs? Thanks for the replies.


http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r17/justin_vanhalanger/f-edscreen.jpg?t=1191804845

Let me know what else you need.

thanks

JustinYeah that looks like a vid card problem definately...I had a old S3 ViRGE a while back where someone had placed a memory module in backwards and FRIED it, and it displayer those kinds of characteristics, so get your Graphics card RAM tested....Gfx card specs...right click desktop >> Properties >> settings >> Advanced >> Adaptor New video card in order i do belive

Hello I'm India Based Videographer I'm Using Pentium D Processor, 102 Motherboard
250GB HD, 1GB RAM, But It Take big time In rendering, Is my configuration Of Pc is
correct if not Pls. Guide me for better perfomanceYou do not state CPU model or speed. Nor what software or type of task. Therefore help can only be limited. In general, for video rendering a faster CPU is better. Also more memory is better. What does "big time" mean specifically? That your machine does a job slower than another computer does the same job? Or slower than you would like? Perhaps there are optimizations you can do. CPU and memory are not the only factors. This PAGE may be informative:-

http://www.intel.com/cd/ids/developer/asmo-na/eng/dc/digitalmedia/optimization/44009.htm

my sound card which is a C-Media sound card model Cmi8738/c3dx PCI is giving me some problems during recording

my internal driver that originally came with my motherboard seems to have a bit of a problem when recording (auto flanger effect) and
i bought a new one which is the C-Media sound card model Cmi8738/c3dx PCI and now when i record with the pc microphone, there is a sharp FEEDBACK disturbance. I've tried cool edit pro as WELL as the basic windows RECORDER to record, and the feedback sound is STILL there!

any tips on this one guys?
i really NEED this to finish up my projects

thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To eliminate microphone feedback, make sure sound is not feeding directly to the speakers. To do this, double-click on the speaker in the TASKBAR. Once the window opens, make sure the recording and microphone volume controls are there. If not, select Options, then Properties, and check the microphone and recording monitors.
Now close that window, and mute the recording and microphone volume controls.

I am trying to disassemble my compaq 2199us laptop to get to the motherboard, I have taken all the screws off but there are 2 colloums in the middle that are holding it together. Are these clamps or what. The reason I am trying to take it apart is no power , already replaced power cord and battery.If you've replaced the power ADAPTER and the battery, it's the SMALL jack that the power cord plugs into that's bad. Sometimes they break off of the motherboarfd because the manufacturer uses cold SOLDER joints. You'll have to replace this power jack and re-solder it to the motherboard.

Sometimes they HIDE screws under the keyboard, under the hard drive bay, memory bay, etc...check for those first.

The Dell Inspiron 1300 has four LEDs on the front left (link to image below). What does the 2nd from the right mean? It's flashing a series of four orange/one green blinks, and we're curious about what that means. The symbol looks like a battery...does this mean it's about to burst into flame?

http://www.notebookreview.com/assets/9018.jpgThat FLASH code means you have a problem with the battery. It may need replacing. If it won't hold a charge, that's how you'll know. These Li-On batteries don't last forever, and when they go, they go! So they have a built in safety circuit that monitors the battery state, the number of charge/discharge cycles, etc, and when it decides it's time to quit, it won't let you charge it any more. Time to send the battery for recycling and buy a new one, or take it out and just use the laptop on AC.

This illustrates the Three Rules of Contrex:-

1. Don't buy a Dell.
2. Don't buy a laptop.
3. Don't buy a Dell laptop!!!!

I looked to see what I could find on this because I also have a Dell Inspiron laptop.

The User Manual for the 1300 can be found here

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins1300/en/om/om_en.pdf

Under "Using a Battery" it says "the battery is too hot to start CHARGING if the [battery] light is flashing alternately green and orange. Disconnect the computer from the electrical outlet and allow the computer and battery to cool to room temperature. Then connect the computer to an electrical outlet to continue charging the battery. For more information about RESOLVING problems with a battery, see “Power Problems.” Ah, thank you very much!Manual:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins1300/en/index.htm#printed_documentation

Quote from: contrex on October 08, 2007, 01:26:05 PM

This illustrates the Three Rules of Contrex:-

1. Don't buy a Dell.
2. Don't buy a laptop.
3. Don't buy a Dell laptop!!!!

Under "Using a Battery" it says "the battery is too hot to start charging if the [battery] light is flashing alternately green and orange.

1. Don't buy a Dell.
2. Don't buy a laptop.
3. Don't buy a Dell laptop!!!!

Quote from: kaigun on October 08, 2007, 01:26:56 PM

Under "Using a Battery" it says "the battery is too hot to start charging if the [battery] light is flashing alternately green and orange.

That is one green, one orange. The OP has four orange, one green, which means "battery has died!".

Out of curiousity, what laptop brand do you recommend?

Quote from: contrex on October 08, 2007, 01:43:59 PM

Quote from: kaigun on October 08, 2007, 01:26:56 PM

Under "Using a Battery" it says "the battery is too hot to start charging if the [battery] light is flashing alternately green and orange.

That is one green, one orange. The OP has four orange, one green, which means "battery has died!".

I can't find this...what page is it on?

Dell recalls 4.1 million batteries

today, the battery charge light started acting a bit funky. Normally, me mateys, when the battery is charging, the light is either solid green (charging from 0-80%) or a very slow blinking green (charging from 80-100%). If the laptop is unplugged, and the battery is below 10% charge, the light starts blinking orange. If the laptop is unplugged and the battery is above 10% charge, then there’s no light. Similarly, if the computer is running straight off of the AC adaptor and the battery is fully charged, there’s no light.

Today, however, I’m finding meself getting a cycle of four short orange flashes followed by a longer green flash, constantly repeated whenever the computer is on and the battery is in (or if the computer is off, but the battery is in and the AC adaptor is plugged in).

I changed the battery, and it’s not doing it anymore.

We have an Inspiron 6400 that is only 5 months old, and the same “fault code” has started on the battery charge light. Four quick orange flashes, then one long green flash. Just noticed it today.

...

After a few phone calls, and some TROUBLE shooting with Dell, it was determined that the battery on our Inspiron 6400 was infact causing the fault code on the battery charge light. Received the replacement battery from Dell this week. It was still on warranty, so this time I am the winner!! Have been using it for a few days, so I am now confident that the issue has been resolved. I cannot fault Dell’s service this time, they were great.

Hopefully this info will assist others with the similar fault code.

If you are getting one hour instead of 4 like me, then the battery does NOT hold a charge.

Also, four very quick flashes then a green seems to be a battery problem. A chip in the battery talks to the computer.

Generally I like Dell, but they are PRICKS for not releasing the meaning of the LED blink codes.

Ok the light means that either the battery is defective or its over heatiing my dell c600 blinks so u should replace it soon

I work for a software company, and am internal IT for, said company. And we get this problem more often then id like.

The issue is that the battery is “nearing the end of its usefull life”

I have the same problem on a Dell Inspiron 6400 (four quick orange flashes followed by a longer green flash). On the phone with Dell now to get a new battery since I’m still under warranty. Just hope it doesn’t happen with the next one. I think from now on I’ll unplug my battery whenever I don’t use it. I think that should extend it’s life. Also, I do let it die from time to time so the battery memory doesn’t screw things up.

re: Dell Laptop Battery Blues
by NickJanuary 07, 2006 @ 4:52 pm

Screw buying a new battery. That $140 will go toward a new laptop, which, *surprise surprise*, won't be a Dell.

Page 13

Hi there, I have a bit issue with a Ram Module Memory. I have a Motherboard Brand Biostar Model U8668-D, with 2 Gb of maximun RAM Capability. I'd been installed a a RAM module of 1Gb, but Windows XP shows me only 512 Mb. Did you know How could I do to permit that my PC detect 1 Gb.?

ThanksI'm sorry I forget my PC characteristics:

- HD: 30 Gb.

- CPU: 1,6 Ghz. Intel P4 (Not HT)

- Ram Memory: NCP PC3200 DDR 400

You wouldn't happen to have onboard graphics? If you do check this is not set to 512MB(though I've never heard of a chipset that HIGH)...Just an ideaWell, I've been checked it and the video memory is 64 Mb (This is the INFO that the BIOS shows me in the memory sharing mode).

Does the BIOS see all the RAM / are you sure this is the correct RAM for your system / when did you first notice it?

Alan <>< Sometimes you need a BIOS update to take advantage of that full memory capability. if your current BIOS doesn't recognise the full gig stick, then check for a BIOS update on the manufacturer's website.It may have something to do with RAM speed rating.
You bought:
PC3200 DDR 400
When I go to Biostart web page, your mobo accepts:
PC2100 DDR SDRAM
I don't know, if that's the issue, but it may be.

BTW, when you right click on "My Computer">Properties, how MUCH RAM is listed there?
Quote from: Broni on October 08, 2007, 02:38:13 PM

It may have something to do with RAM speed rating.
You bought:
PC3200 DDR 400
When I go to Biostart web page, your mobo accepts:
PC2100 DDR SDRAM
I don't know, if that's the issue, but it may be.

BTW, when you right click on "My Computer">Properties, how much RAM is listed there?

I'll try to summarize here:

I had an old compaq computer with an 80GB Hard Drive with all my important FILES, music, etc... on it. Booted with WINDOWS XP. The hard drive had two partitions, my hard disk C drive, and a backup D drive. Long story short, computer would not boot properly.

My Aunt gave me her old computer (very similar) which has a 2GB hard drive, and boots windows ME. (yikes)

I try adding the old hard drive to the new PC and it will only recognized the backup "D" drive and not the "C" drive.

Okay here's what I'm wanting, either:

1. I want the computer to boot to the 80GB hard drive with XP, and ditch the 2GB ME drive. This would be my ideal situation.

2. Have the Windows Me boot up, but recognize the "C" hard disk with all my important files.

Is either of these options possible, if so can someone point me in the right DIRECTION?

Thank you so much.

--Phil--windows me probably won't recognise it because it uses the FAT or FAT32 file system. XP is NTFS. You need to completely wipe the drive and reinstall whatever OS you want to use.check MASTER / slave settings.
are you trying to boot into xp from this drive that was on the other computer? if so, you can't do it. period. it has to do with hardware. when you install windows it ties itself to the hardware it's currently being installed on. if you move that hard drive to a different computer, it won't work unless that other computer is exactly (or almost) the same. the biggest thing is the motherboard chipset. no matter what you'll have to wipe it and reinstall it.Quote from: RankenTech on October 08, 2007, 03:30:42 PM

are you trying to boot into xp from this drive that was on the other computer? if so, you can't do it. period. it has to do with hardware. when you install windows it ties itself to the hardware it's currently being installed on. if you move that hard drive to a different computer, it won't work unless that other computer is exactly (or almost) the same. the biggest thing is the motherboard chipset. no matter what you'll have to wipe it and reinstall it.

A lot of power STRIPS have overload trip mechanisms on them, they could easily be mistaken for surge protectors but they offer no protection against surges.
People shouldn't forget other things in their house, I have a TV that's worth 4 computers in the $ department.Quote

People shouldn't forget other things in their house, I have a TV that's worth 4 computers in the $ department.

Quote

Give your life away to our god so that you won't go to h**l"

And you ask how things got hostile ? ?
They aren't hostile at all...i don't personally know anyone who would relate surge protectors with going to h**l.

Just an observation.

Is it possible to install windows2000 after windowsXP in Dual Boot?Yes, If you have made separate partitions first during the XP setup or have more then one DRIVE you are installing to You cannot have XP and 2000 on the same PartitionThis may also help HTTP://support.microsoft.com/kb/306559


Sorry for double posting but i cant EDIT my posts cause i am a Limited rights
Apprentice
Quote from: Spero-T on October 08, 2007, 04:30:34 AM

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306559


Sorry for double posting but i cant edit my posts cause i am a Limited rights
Apprentice

my cd-rom player sometimes seems to stick, i.e it clicks, the green light flashes , but it will not open, any ideas?maxxyIt sounds LIKE a mechanical problem, you may be BUYING a new one.
If you GET stuck you can stick a paper clip into the tiny hole on the front to release it.CD/DVD players sometimes do this, and in most CASES, there is something wrong with a disk.
If you hear it SPINNING, it won't open.
You can try Fed's advice, or...
- right click on your CD drive letter in "My Computer", and click "Open", or if that fails, restart your computer. That's for sure will release it.I wish some mod will move this topic from this forum Topic moved to the appropriate section.

... and just think about how much static electricity builds up in a normal dryer. If the media can survive that, I think it would be safe to handle and stick in your pocket.

Then I asked an additional question.
If you happen to know, I'd still like to know.

Are the cards designed somehow to be resistant to ESD with handling?
Can you just drop one in your pocket and go? Or do you have to be careful and hold it by the edges?

The product to be tested is charged as highly as possible under most critical conditions, usually in dry climate at 23 °C at a
relative humidity of less than 30 %

# Replace or recharge batteries in devices after getting a low-battery warning

Battery discharge is one of the most common problems causing the loss of pictures or other data on Flash storage devices. If a battery dies in the middle of a write operation to the Flash storage device, then not only can the file being written become corrupted, but the entire device MAY be damaged as well. For example, if the File Allocation Table (FAT) directory file update is incomplete and the FAT file is corrupted, some or all files on the Flash storage device may no longer be accessible.

However, it may be possible to repair the Flash storage device using commercially available disk recovery software. Even with these recovery programs, some data or files on the Flash storage device may still be lost, but the rest may be recoverable.

To avoid these problems, carry a spare battery if possible or stop using a device when battery power gets very low.

# Properly remove your Flash storage device from the host device

It is important to wait until all operations are completed before removing a Flash storage device from a digital camera or other host device. If the Flash storage device is removed during a write operation, for example, the Flash storage device may be corrupted and data loss may occur.

Most digital cameras will show a blinking light during Flash write operations, so it is important to wait until all operations are completed.

On PCs, it is important to stop a DataTraveler's USB connection through Windows (In Windows XP, use the "Safely Remove Hardware" icon in the system tray). For DataTraveler Elite drives, you can use MyTraveler's Eject button. Computers often "cache" data into memory and may delay the write to USB Flash drives. As a rule of thumb, wait a minimum of 2 minutes after you finish writing data to a DataTraveler drive.

# Properly store Flash cards into their plastic cases and close cap on DataTraveler drives

Flash storage devices, while quite reliable, can be damaged when dropped on hard surfaces. When not in use, storing Flash storage cards in their clear plastic cases is recommended. DataTraveler drives should be stored with their caps on.

In addition, static electricity can also damage Flash storage devices. For example, on dry days, a person can generate enough static electricity to cause a spark while touching a door knob or other metal objects (this is called electro-static discharge or ESD).

Kingston Flash cards and DataTraveler drives are designed to RESIST high levels of electro-static discharge; however, extreme levels of ESD may cause damage.

# Do not force Flash storage devices into connectors

Flash card or USB Flash drive connectors are unidirectional. This means that the Flash storage device must be inserted in one direction only; if you cannot INSERT the device, do not force it in to prevent damage to the Flash storage device or the socket! For more information on proper insertion of Flash cards or USB Flash drives, consult your host device's user manual.


# Pack Flash storage devices into carry-on luggage if possible

Tens of millions of Flash storage devices are in use worldwide, and there have been no verifiable reports of Flash storage damage due to airport X-ray scanners.

A 2004 study by the International Imaging Industry Association (I3A) verified that today's airport X-ray machines do not appear to be a risk to flash memory cards.1

As a precaution, Kingston recommends that Flash cards and DataTraveler drives be treated just like unprocessed film and stored in carry-on luggage, as the passenger screening radiation levels are much lower than those used by newer luggage scanning machines.

# Avoid U.S. Postal Service radiation scanning of mailed packages

According to the CompactFlash Association, x-ray scanners at airports will not damage CompactFlash cards but radiation scanning by the U.S. Postal Service may damage them.2 Because of this warning by the CompactFlash Association regarding mail irradiation by the U.S. Postal Service, it may be preferable to use a commercial service such as FedEx, UPS, or other private carrier as an alternative to mailing Flash storage devices by U.S. mail.

# Always make backups of your data

Flash storage devices are not infallible and can have their data damaged due to factors mentioned above. It is important to BACKUP important information on multiple media or even print them on paper for long-term storage. Do not store important data solely on Flash storage devices.

The slide show will appear on the DVD as a series of .VOB files, just like an ordinary DVD.

They will be rather large and impractical to send via email I think.

Quote

Are the cards designed somehow to be resistant to ESD with handling?
Can you just drop one in your pocket and go? Or do you have to be careful and hold it by the edges?

They should come with a little plastic case. They should be kept in that when not in use.



Compact Flash cards have all the pins enclosed so it is rather hard to make contact with the circuitry but I have noticed that SD cards have exposed contacts.

One is advised not to touch the exposed contacts, both to avoid tarnishing from skin secretions and possible ESD.

I must mention that as I live in a moistly temperate zone (Great Britain) and I don't wear nylon clothes and as I have a wool carpet, I have never really experienced any ESD troubles, and I don't know anyone who has. I understand it is more of a problem in other places.

... much snipped for brevity....

Hey, this is my first time posting here, so I really hope I can get help!

My computer problems started when I woke up one morning and my computer was off and my monitor was in power save mode. My computer would turn on for a few seconds and then turn itself off again. The entire time this kept happening my monitor wouldn't come out of power save mode. Eventually the computer wouldn't even stay on for 2 seconds and then it wouldn't turn on at all. I called Dell and they told me all the basic troubleshooting, ie unplugging and plugging in stuff and then told me my warranty was up and they could only help me further if I spent $40.

Then, after a couple days, I tried to turn the computer on for fun, and it turned on. The monitor CAME out of power save mode and it even went to my log on screen. At that point my boyfriend suggested I turn it off and move it to a better outlet. I dismantled the computer and realized the internet was only in the bedroom, so I set the computer back up.

Now it will turn on and stay on, but I can't get the monitor out of power save mode. I read something to see if the keyboard was working, so I hit the caps lock key and nothing happened. I plugged in a different keyboard and it STILL won't work. I plugged another mouse in as well and nothing happened. I am thinking my usb ports aren't registering anything, but that doesn't explain why my computer wouldn't stay on, and now I can't get the monitor off of power save mode and the keyboard/mouse to work.

So if anybody has actually red my novel and thinks they could help me that would be much appreciated!! Thanks!!

You can also reach me at [emailprotected] or myspace.com/coli

Thanks again!!Need...more...info...gasp

Operating system / ANTIVIRUS &AMP; antispyware protection / service packs installed / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software?

Assuming you're using a USB keyboard and mouse, try using the standard PS/2 keyboard and mouse. If those work go to Display Properties in Control Panel / choose the screen saver tab / power @ the bottom / change system standby to "never" / choose the Hybernate tab/ uncheck the enable option. Start with this.

Alan <>< LOL, More info?
OK, so everything was installed and up to date when it shut itself down. It started happening I believe last Thursday or around then. It always worked right, this was the first time it's ever done this. When I first got it it wouldn't come out of sleep mode, but the Dell guy took me through what he did the other day and that stuff worked then. I haven't installed any new software. I do however, hardly turn it off, and the outlet it is in sometimes got bumped by feet or animals and would restart the computer.

I guess I'm using a usb keyboard and mouse...they both have usb plugs...they came with my computer and are the only ones I have. I could probably find an OLD one in the next few days or so though.

I'll let you know when I can do that and if it worked. Thanks!

Oh, and I have XP, and i forget the name of my antivirus stuff

my computer monitor screen is moving in and out from side to side, i have no idea what is going on. it moves like that very fast.

Thank you in advance, Lecia Hey Lecia and WELCOME to the boards. Could you perhaps give us a little more information such as the brand (Dell, Compaq, Toshiba, etc.) and type (desktop/laptop) of computer you have?

Also, could you give us the Operating System (windows XP, Windows 2000, Vista, etc)?
Then tell us exactly what you were doing leading up to the problem, during, and after? Such as troubleshooting methods you took, if any. Does your computer still function? Thank you for the welcome... before i posted i went onto the help part and did a "rate refresh" set it too 75hz

i have a hp pavilion v70
windows xp
desktop

it was working fine yesterday, than my son went onto myspace for a few hours i than got back online and noticed what was happening

it's doing it as i'm typing right now the screen on both sides moves in and out real fast than stops than does it again

i smacked the side of my monitor and it makes it stop for a moment than does it again.

I thank you very much for getting back too me so fast. yes my computer still works but is a real pain in the *censored* due to this is happening.

i shut down my computer and checked all the wires and connections and everything was fine.

thank you again in advance. Lecia
Many culprits possible, but let's start with a simple one.
Turn it off for an hour, turn it on. Still happens?Also, if you can possibly get access to another, known working monitor, connect that to the computer to see if it does the same THING.

If it does the same thing, we know that the computer is the problem, most likely the video card.

If it doesn't do the same thing, it's your monitor that's the problem.Thank you both!! I don't have another computer too set it up but will turn it off for an hour and will get back too you. Thank you so so much for your help!!

Lecia As RankenTech said, it's very likely to be your video card, so I wanted you to give it a rest, just to see, if it's not overheating.thank you i'm getting off now!! I had my computer off for over an hour and its still doing it.... How old is your computer?
How is your security check (viruses, spywares, etc.)? Up to date?

Go Start>Control Panel
Double click on Device Manager.
Click on "+" sign next to "Display Adapter".
What is listed there?
Make sure, it doesn't have an exclamation/question mark next to it.
Have you checked the Specs for settings on your
V70 monitor? Try setting it to 60HZ

Resolution Vertical FREQUENCY
640 x 480 60 Hz
640 x 480 75 Hz
640 x 480 85 Hz
720 x 400 70 Hz
800 x 600 60 Hz
800 x 600 75 Hz
800 x 600 85 Hz
1024 x 768 60 Hz
1024 x 768 70 Hz
1024 x 768 85 Hz
my computer is 5 years old

all security is up to date

for the "Display Adapter" it says Intel(R) 82845G/GL/GE/PE/GV Graphics Controller

should i click onto update drive?

i will set it to 60hz i always have it set at 640 x 480 due to my eyes hurt if i have it set any smaller. i will get back too you once i change it back to 60hz

thank you both so much for your help!! Lecia



Quote

should i click onto update driver

Hi, I wonder if someone can help me! My hard disk failed. I tried to recover my data with an external IDE to USB interface but any PC recognize it. I put it BACK into the laptop and checked it with the BIOS SETUP but it did't recognize it too.

What can I do to recover my data?

Thankshow many other machines did you try? Did you try different controllers? what type of HDD is it?The HDD is a Seagate 60Gb Model ST960822A. I´ve tried to read it on three laptops and ONE PC with two differents USB interfaces.

Thanks.In that case, if your data is extremely important, you may need professional help.
If you want to take a shot yourself, put your HD in a ziplock bag, and put it into a freezer overnight.
Next day, it may give you enough time of its life to retrieve your data. The freezer trick has worked for me a COUPLE of times. Just MAKE sure when you go to hook it up the hard drive is still as cold as possible, don't let it sit out.

If not, you're looking at some very pricey data RECOVERY. Just depends if your data is worth several hundreds, or thousands, of dollars.Ok, thanks a lot.Let us know...

my pc specs......amd athlon 4200 dual core,2 gig ram,256 video card,dvdrw liteon LH - 20A1P x2.120 gig sata hdd,& 200 gig ide hdd.

my problem is....ONE of the BURNERS runs like a dream,the other one (the pain)will only run at 2 speed tops,the both i bought together new,3 mths ago,as i had the tower built for me cause i am not into the hardware part. i would appreciate any HELP in this matter.
3 months old...return it for a replacement...

Processor:
Intel Pentium 4 650 Prescott 3.4GHz 2MB L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor HYPER THREADING
CPU Fan: Intel Socket 775 Heavy Duty Cooling Fan With Heat Sink
Memory: 2GB DDR2 533 1024MB
Motherboard:
Chipset: PC CHIPS P23G V3.0 Intel Socket 775
VIA P4M800 PRO North BRIDGE Chipset and the VIA VT8237R South Bridge Chipset.
Hard Drive: Western Digital 250GB Hard Drive 8MB Cache 7200RPMs SATA
Disc Drives: LG 18x DVD Burner
Sound: 6 Channel Realtek ALC655 for high quality audio
Network: 10/100Mbps
Ports: 4 USB 2.0 Ports with 2 USB front ports, 1 Serial, 1 Video, 1 Network, PS/2 ports, Parallel Port, 6 Channel Sound
Case: POWMAX Bio II Silver ATX Mid-Tower Case with Clear Side, Front USB and 450-Watt Power Supply x1 LED Fan
Operating System: WINDOWS Vista Business


Thsoe are my specs. When I WIGGLE my mouse or press a key, my computer screen does not show up. Now, the first thing coming to your heads is restart your computer. I do. Nothing shows up. I tried letting it cool off for a couple days but it didnt work. Can someone help me out? Thanks, much appriciated No power light, either?

I have a DELL Dimension 4100 desktop tower. I replaced the CD-ROM drive with a new DVD drive. I used a 1X(IDE ATA to HDD/DVD/CDROM 100/133 SATA Converter Adapter K6P1) which works in my other computers. Even when I change the boot to read the DVD drive with the CD (for the drivers) in it, the system can't find it. I even tried the "look for new hardware" icon, the system still couldn't find the player. I've included the system sheet.That you are able to set it as a boot device seems to indicate to me it is being correctly identified during the initial BIOS Boot process. is this correct?

If so, I assume then that the problem is there is no drive letter appearing for the drive?

You can check Disk Management (diskmgmt.msc) and see if the drive is appearing but was not assigned a drive letter (and assign one, of course).

Otherwise, Assuming for now that the adapter works, I would suggest that the Master/Slave configuration is incorrect. If I understand correctly based on the this is an adapter that adapts a SATA drive to be able to be used as an EIDE drive. In such a case the master/slave configuration would be on the adapter itself, typically via Jumper.

Hi Alan

If you check the IDE cable and it has a wire cut, it is for devices jumped for cable select. Your IDE to Sata adapter needs a straight thru cable no missing wires. So is CONFIGURED as a single drive or master.
Here is a web site which explains it better than i can http://www.unixwiz.net/techtips/ide-cable-select.html


On the boot screen, it shows the ATAPI CDROM for 1st boot. My DVD is an ASUS drive. On XP WINDOWS (my computer), it does not show the DVD.
I will check the Disk Management (diskmgmt.msc) and the IDE cable for a wire cut. I found the hard drive in selected as "slave" instead of master.
So I need to find out how to put that back to the master. Thanks, BC_Programer and Lisa_maree.I found that when first starting up, the screen will sometimes show one or TWO of the other. The hard drive, or the DVD player or both. When one of them doesn't show, (the HD or DVD) they won't work. Is this the BIOS that is bad? There is an upgrade of the BIOS though DELL's web page. So do I need to download this and do an update? The diskmgmt.msc didn't do anything and the cable is in GREAT condition. I would DLoad and install the OakRom CD drivers and re=boot.

I am considering the purchase of a GoPro Hero 5 Session. I will need a laptop, to view and edit what I record and to carry with me when I travel. I can guess that to store and process so many images would take a lot of RAM and storage space. What laptop would be best for this type of gopro?Storage Space = YES
RAM = Not as important, but I'd go with 8 GB minimum

For editing videos, I'd suggest a Core i5 or Core i7 laptop, and a laptop with a Hard Drive INSTEAD of a Solid State Drive. However if your budget allows, a laptop that comes with both a Hard Drive and a SSD would be best because you can have the SSD for everything to load fast and HDD to store pictures and videos as well as when editing videos definitely do this through the HDD and not the SSD. However if you don't mind wearing out the life of a SSD you could use that to alter/edit videos and have a faster encoding to the processed edited video from the original.I don't think you need to worry about wearing out SSDs these days.What sort of budget are you looking at, your budget is the main factor in what you should be looking to spend your money on.

Personally I would treat an SSD as an absolute requirement for this, you're going to likely want a machine that will be good for things other than video editing and running a laptop with a hard drive nowadays will make the whole thing feel sluggish in daily tasks. You do have lower capacity however GoPro footage isn't huge and you can always use an external hard drive to archive footage when you aren't working on it then edit off of the SSD for good scrubbing/rendering performance (especially when working with 4k). In the past I edited off of a hard drive and it became the thing that bottlenecked rendering performance and made certain actions like scrubbing or generating audio waveforms frustratingly slow. If your budget allows, go for one with "NVMe" or "PCIe" SSD storage rather than a "SATA" SSD, you pay a bit more but it's several times faster. I'd basically ignore anything around SSDs "wearing out" - they technically do but having properly stressed cheap SSDs by capturing uncompressed 1080p video to them with them still going strong and also having SSDs from 2011 still going strong, I wouldn't be worried, by the time it would take you to wear out the drive, you'll have already PROBABLY upgraded to a newer machine.

CPU wise, I'd stick with Intel as their QuickSync video engine will massively improve video rendering performance. For context, I used to render my videos using my 8 core AMD Ryzen 1700x desktop which rendered at around 80-90fps. On my Quad Core i7 MacBook Pro with QuickSync I can render at 150fps easily. You probably also want to go for something quad core or greater and bear in mind that the CPU models ending in "U" are lower power consumption models which aren't as powerful.

For RAM I'd see 8gb as a bare minimum, 16gb would be even better if your budget allows.

Also look at the screen resolution, I'd go with something at least 1080p, something cheap like 1366x768 will feel very CRAMPED. An IPS panel will also be good to get decent colour accuracy when working with video.

Outside of that, you'd also want to keep an eye on things like build quality, battery life and portability. You could probably get a machine with insane SPECS for a really low price but if it weighs a tonne, falls apart when you slightly bump it and lasts 45mins on battery, it's probably not the ideal option!

Can I use a DVI to HDMI cable and a normal hdmi cable to SPLIT screen on one graphics CARD?Which video card do you have that your trying to do this with? You can also share the make/model of the computer if UNSURE of the video card or GPU your system has and the GPU the system has is the same as when you bought it as original from manufacturer.

I print certificates (example attached) monthly for an organization that I am secretary of. I currently use a business printer at another members business office to print these because my HP Deskjet 2540 printer does not have border adjustments which will center the certificate as shown in the example. So I want to buy a printer that does have the ability to do this but I can't spend several hundred dollars for a business printer like the one at my friends office. So I've been looking at specs for various affordable printers but I can't find the information that TELLS whether or not border controls are included. How can I tell if this HP OFFICEJET 3830 (for instance) will print with the image centered like the example?

https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-officejet-3830-all-in-one-printer-series/7172321/product-info

https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-officejet-3830-all-in-one-printer-series/7172321/document/c04655393Saw that this hasn't gotten any attention since 4/2. Was wondering if the software your using allows you to offset your image to tweak it to line it up or not by trial and error?

I bought paper stock before that is like the achievement blank you have and had to line up the information centered to the dimensions of the paper stock. I was able to print to regular office paper which is cheap and lay that overtop of the achievement stock and hold it up to a light source you can see where the text will all line up in relation to the achievement stock. This way your not burning money with the expensive paper stock with trying to get the alignment right and instead just burning PENNIES on it per print until you get your alignment correct vs dimes or quarters per TEST page for alignment.The template was free from Microsoft Powerpoint webpage (I have an Office 365 liscense but any of this can be done for free at Powerpoint Online provided you have a free Microsoft account login username & password), I use cardstock paper available fairly cheap from Walmart although I do use plain white printing paper for setting up the page and running test prints.

This is mainly a problem printing these Powerpoint (.pptx) presentations (certificates)
No the 'HP Deskjet 2540 software' does not allow to adjust margins and header/footer or borders.
If I print an image from 'Windows Photos', the options only allow 'Margin - Normal or Uniform'.
If I print a text file (.txt) it will give variable setting options for margins but nothing more, which I believe would work if I could open a .pptx file with this page setup options.
If I print from a Firefox webpage via ticking - 'file>page setup', It does give some options for 'Margins and Header/Footer.
And when printing from a Powerpoint presentation (.pptx) such as these certificates, it gives only the options that the HP Deskjet 2540 software allows which INCLUDES no control over Header/Footer or Borders at all.

see attached images:Printer advanced settings,
Print photosPrint from Paint file Page Setup,Print from Powerpoint .pptx = same as advanced settingsI found a workaround. First I save the file as .jpg rather than .pptx. Then since the margins are adjustable when printing from file in Paint I set right, left, top and bottom margins to 0.56 which is the lowest value it will accept for all 4. The result has a bit more border than I would like but it's very acceptable.
This takes a bit more work but I only do these once per month and usually no more then 4 or 5, so the little extra time spent is well worth not buying another printer.
Happy now, and thank you once again for your help DaveLembke!final settings @ .56 top, .056 bottom, .056 right, .056 left

Every time I insert a USB device, it comes up with the message:" USB device not recognized ". Any solutions? I have tried switching places for USB for the headset I have including the charger but the error remained. What device is this?

Usually this only happens to older USB devices where you need to install the software first and then connect the device to make it work. Some printers for example require you to install the software for the printer first and during this process they state do not connect the printer to USB connection until told to do so by the installation software. Older Digital Camera's also face this issue.

If its a Smart Phone that your trying to gain access to it through a PC, you would need software that supports the handshake between PC and Smart Phone for that specific model. I ran into this message when trying to get my laptop tether connected via USB to my LG Smart phone to get internet through 3G Internet connection but gave up on this when it was a never ending headache and very limited documentation out there for my smart phone. Basically its a Tracfone smart phone that the phone was manufactured to only ever be a smart phone with Tracfone service but not offer a shared internet connection with 3G network.Go to Control Panel/Device MANAGER...expand all instances of USB roots and HUBS...right clik each one and select remove/Delete...you will recieve a warning...ignore it.

Upon re-boot all instances will be automatically re-installed and should work fine afterwards...You can also try to find it on your Disk Management, press Win Key + R and TYPE Diskmgmt.msc, check whether you can find the USB device there.Quote from: Shamaya on April 17, 2019, 06:33:45 AM

Select START, then type device manager in the Search box, and then select Device Manager.
Expand Universal Serial Bus controllers. Press and hold (or right-click) a device and select Uninstall. ...
Once complete, restart your computer. Your USB controllers will automatically install.

My Asus Chromebook C202S has the power light on, but isn't turning on or charging. I've tried HOLDING the power button for as long as a minute but nothing happens. When I open the laptop up and unplug the battery, the light goes out, but when I try plugging in the charger in that state the light turns back on, otherwise no response. Is there a fix for this?Chromebooks being as low cost as they are. They have turned into pretty much throw-aways when this sort of problem happens.

It could be something as simple as the power button not making the connection to boot it, but its more likely that this chromebook has a bigger problem going for it.

If you were able to get a low cost donor like for $20 with a known good keypad/keyboard but other issue, you could try swapping this out if your SKILLED at opening it and swapping the keypad/keyboard to it. But no guarantee that this will fix your issue.

Myself if it were mine, I'd buy a NEW one for like $199 and not take the gamble with throwing PARTS at it to fix it which are non-returnable if they are not the cure. Your documents hopefully were all saved under a Google Account ANYWAYS so its likely that no important data remains on it.

Hello - I have a Dell Inspiron 3650 desktop computer that over the last 24 hours it STARTED running very slow and I started to hear a clicking sound coming from it. My fears were confirmed when I ran a Dell diagnostics test on it and it gave me error code 2000-0142 which means a bad hdd. So I've taken the hdd out of the console and put it into an external case which I have plugged into a laptop computer. It seems to be spinning just FINE and in windows explorer I can see the files, but when I click on them it SAYS "you don't currently have permission to ACCESS this folder". What steps should I take next to try and save my files? Please help. TIASee here...

The other day i was having trouble LOADING steam so i restarted my pc, but when it went to boot up it was stuck at the WINDOWS screen. after 10-15(even though its an ssd) minutes it finally brings up my desktop and has trouble loading just about anything. I came to the conclusion that my ssd must be failing so ordered a new one. it came in yesterday, so i slapped it in and grabbed my windows 10 usb(bought not home made) but its really slow as well, took forever to get to where i could click custom install. im on the volume select screen and i can see the new ssd on the list but my mouse is just an hourglass and i cant select anything. i do have a standard hdd that i use for storage, could that be whats failing and causing all the slowness?If you are skilled enough to "slap in" an SSD, you could certainly TRY disconnecting the hdd that you suspect.Hi

Yes to the question, the data drive could cause the slowness. Although i think 10 to 15 minutes is longer than I would expect a faulty hard drive to slow the computer. If you try loading windows with only the new ssd connected and see if it speeds the computer up. Then connect the data drive and test if it slows down. There is windows hard drive diagnostic tools you could run to confirm. The amount of time to boot suggests it it more likely failing power supply. A failing hard drive would slow boot by 2 to 3 minutes. Is the computer slow on other things like re installing windows ?

If there is an OS on the flakey drive that time delay is reasonable...So i popped out the data drive, left in the new ssd and put the old one back in and everything booted just fine. Its strange how that drive GOING bad could prevent windows install on a different drive in the pc. Backup and wipe the data drive and start over...PS> you never stated if it did have an OS on it...Good diagnoses, Well done

I would like to know how the data drive sounds with just the power applied. When the computer starts in this configuration listen to the drive does it start spinning click a few times and then keep spinning? or does the speed change and the drive keeps resetting the heads which is the clicking sound. If the drive is spinning down and resetting it could still be the 12v output on the power supply. Most Bios setups have a HEALTH page which shows the power supply voltages. So they are easy to check. If the 12 v output is less than 11.6 V then you should replace the power supply.

My motherboard is Intel DZ68PL and has only 2 on-board SATA ports that support 6GBPS data transfer rate, but I wanna connect 4 internal HDDs that support 6 GB/s data transfer rate together (All 4 HDDs at the same time). Is there any way to do this?If your motherboard has a PCI-E slot you may be able to fit an extension card. This one has 4 SATA 3 connectors. You can get cards with more. For each drive you will need a data CABLE and a power cable. You may have to use SATA power splitter cables.

SATA III 4 Port PCI-e x1 Controller Card




What sort of drives are you using, if we're just talking basic mechanical hard drives then chances are they won't be able to SATURATE even a 3Gb/s SATA II connection so you'd be able to use them with your board's SATA II ports without any performance degradation. SATA II 3Gb/s can support up to 300MB/s of data throughput so worth either looking up performance benchmarks for your particular drives (or test them yourself with them hooked up to the SATA III ports), if they max out at less than 300MB/s then I'd just connect them to the motherboard's SATA II ports.

So before anything my computer specs are and AMD Ryzen 2600, 16 GB corsair Vengeance PRO rgb ram, Nvidia GTX 1070, 2 1TB hard drives, and a 256GB SSD, and an ASUS B450M-Plus mobo.

My computer has been acting weird since I started switching around and messing with my RAM. It runs fine when you first start it usually, but if it goes into sleep mode from sitting too long, when I start it up again the computer starts locking up SHORTLY after login It TELLS me even though I'm hooked up to ethernet I have no internet and if I try using it, it will start freezing and lagging until it is just COMPLETELY locked up. Only way to fix it is a hard reset and when I reset it, it still acts up so I have to power cycle it a second time because it usually doesn't BOOT the first I kinda suspect my motherboard may be bad. I had to do a complete reinstall of windows because I kept getting corrupted files and windows not wanting to start programs and such.

Any thoughts or IDEAS?Is the RAM on the motherboard maker's compatibility list, and is it running on standard clocks and voltages?
I'd also run memtest86 on it to see what stick or sticks are complaining about memory issues?

Curious what you were trying to achieve when playing with the RAM? Which then started the failures.

Also under power properties in control panel you can change the system to not go to sleep when idle and see if it behaves if it is never put into sleep mode.After messing with RAM maybe make sure it is seated properly? With the AC power disconnected!

Hey guys.

It seems me and RAM are at odds again, not sure why I am eternally cursed to not have normally functioning memory. xD

Anyway I'm speaking to Gigabyte (my motherboard manufacturer) who as of yet haven't provided any insight on the issue.

The problem is as follows: When in BIOS my system recognises two STICKS of RAM and a total memory of 16GB, but looking at the ADVANCED timings on automatic settings it's given each different timings for a few of the settings and I'm not sure if this is normal given that when I boot into Windows and view memory performance tab it says memory size 7.9GB, 2 of 4 slots used, 8.1GB hardware reserved (This is made up of 50MB or so of the stick it can use, and the full 8GB of the memory it can't use for some reason).

I've tried to RAM on a different board and it works fine, I've tried different memory in this board and I get the same issue.

When using one slot it works fine, showing 7.9GB total and 50MB hardware reserved.

I've just done a complete reinstall of Windows, tried a CMOS reset, flashed the bios but nothing has worked. This is saying to me that the mobo is faulty. I was hoping that I might find someone here that can agree with me or give me some idea of what I might not have tried yet?

Check the speccy log attached also if interested, it shows 16GB size but only 7.9GB of physical, yet clicking on each slot it reads the slot correctly.

(FYI the other memory I tested (which also had the hardware reserved issue) was G.Skill F4-3200C14D-16GFX)

Any suggestions very welcome.

Thanks!...Attached is an IMAGE of the advanced memory timings in bios. (Converted to black and white and low quality to get under the size restrictions).Are they matched stiks of RAM...or no ? ?

If they are which slots do you have them in ?PS whya are you using advanced settings on them ? ?

OC'ing RAM is not worth the headaches it can create...but thats just my opinion.Hey PATIO.

Thanks for the reply. It turns out it was the RAM. I just assumed it wasn't because when I tried the other sticks it did the whole 8GB hardware reserved thing again, I dunno if that was because maybe I hadn't inserted one fully or if the bios had saved some configuration it was using on the other RAM or what? Anyway I've tried the other set of RAM and have both sticks of this fully working at correct speeds.

I wasn't trying to OC the RAM by the way, those were the timings that were coming up under the board automatic settings, they were showing different despite the RAM sticks being a pair.

Anyway I have the other working 8GB DDR4 stick of RAM if you want it? I'll be happy to post it anywhere for you.

Cheers.I'm good thanx...gift it to someone local.