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I have a TV and a PC in the same ROOM. The problem is, that my TV is exactly behind the PC and my neck is really starting to get stiff. So im thinking of buying a cheap TV card in order to watch TV on my PC monitor. A plus to this is that my Monitor can support up to 720p so i would be able to connect any console and get better quality gaming.
Only problem is, i know nothing ABT TV cards, i mean they are supposed to be simple right, u got ur TV in and thats it, but i found some for over 1000$ and i dont know what to make of it. Does anyone know of what features a good card should have, like editing or whatever? I really just need to be educated on the subject.Track... You might want to check out Tiger Direct if your in the USA or Canada....... go to the vid card section and then look for tv tuner cards .....
prices range from 65 - 150 canadian. But theres lots of information there

dl65

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Track... You might want to check out Tiger Direct if your in the USA or Canada....... go to the vid card section and then look for tv tuner cards .....
prices range from 65 - 150 canadian. But theres lots of information there

dl65

I have a TV and a PC in the same room. The problem is, that my TV is exactly behind the PC and my neck is really starting to get stiff. So im thinking of buying a cheap TV card in order to watch TV on my PC monitor..

Quote

I have a TV and a PC in the same room. The problem is, that my TV is exactly behind the PC and my neck is really starting to get stiff. So im thinking of buying a cheap TV card in order to watch TV on my PC monitor..

What if you rotate the computer 180 degrees and have full access to both for $0?

Quote

Quote

I have a TV and a PC in the same room. The problem is, that my TV is exactly behind the PC and my neck is really starting to get stiff. So im thinking of buying a cheap TV card in order to watch TV on my PC monitor..

What if you rotate the computer 180 degrees and have full access to both for $0?

TV tuner card: fifty dollars, Moving computer so you can see it and the tv, Priceless

speaking of TV cards... my tv has a weird card in it that is the tv card, it plugs into the tv's board via some wierd cable, and has an eithernet jack labled "DATA", although the eithernet port isnt connected, its missin some weird ribbon cable...so im gonna get this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814129051

and watch tv through my computer, which will be routed to my mobo's composite (yellow RCA cable connector) out, and watch tv through my tv, minus all of the snow... my tv is old, but when you take away the snow, it has a great picture, minus the pear shapped magnetic spot in the center of it...

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speaking of TV cards... my tv has a weird card in it that is the tv card, it plugs into the tv's board via some wierd cable, and has an eithernet jack labled "DATA", although the eithernet port isnt connected, its missin some weird ribbon cable...so im gonna get this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814129051

and watch tv through my computer, which will be routed to my mobo's composite (yellow RCA cable connector) out, and watch tv through my tv, minus all of the snow... my tv is old, but when you take away the snow, it has a great picture, minus the pear shapped magnetic spot in the center of it...

Thats a pretty cool idea. Take the TV broadcast, switch it over to ur motherboard then re-route it to ur TV.


I was told that what matters is the resolution, and that its read in p, as in 500p or so like HDTV resolution. Hasnt anyone here bought a TV card?

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It's no crazier than multiple monitors. It's just a MATTER of how a person wants to spend their money, right?

Track, don't think I was the one giving you a hard time about it. My point was that was your prerogative.

Only thing is tho those old CPU's that fit , cant Keep up with a New GFX card, it wont ever preform to its fullest in that computer, and then it will have just been a waste of moneys

i just wasted a whole lot of moneys on my new system, i got to start building it last night , and i nearly fell asleep in the case... its a big case i could live in it , has space for 8 HDD's

if you don't Upgrade you Mobo and CPU to a new Dual Core system and you Buy a 7800 Gfx card its like buying a Ferrari Engine and putting it in two VW Beetle

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811129017

Thats my Case , but i think this might be Tread hijacking...

So ill say this

if you don't Upgrade you Mobo and CPU to a new Dual Core system and you Buy a 7800 Gfx card its like buying a Ferrari Engine and putting it in two VW Beetle

ive tried to find anything i can on the situation, it seems my COMPUTER is free of any viruses, however looking in all reports my keyboard is causing the crashing, and i have no idea why. I have tried many ideas to no avail. So i decided to find a place like this and see if i can get any help.

thanks in advance for anything.

Windows XP Pro.
Dell Dimension 4600C
Default System Bios
Pentium 4 Processor
256mb RamPlease post a LOT of detailed informatuion REGARDING the"crashes", what happened before this, the computer, how long it has been going on, what you have DONE, etc. for some appropriate help.Quote

ive tried to find anything i can on the situation, it seems my computer is free of any viruses, however looking in all reports my keyboard is causing the crashing, and i have no idea why. I have tried many ideas to no avail. So i decided to find a place like this and see if i can get any help.

thanks in advance for anything.

Windows XP Pro.
Dell Dimension 4600C
Default System Bios
Pentium 4 Processor
256mb Ram

I am not sure what it is CALLED so I will explain what I am trying to do.

I have a D-link 704up router. I have a speedtouch modem connecting it to the internet via dedicated phone line. I have a two systemax and one dell computer HOOKED into the router and everyone is doing fine. I have one spot left on my router and I have a 2003 Systemax computer that I want to connect to that spot but it doesn't have a place to connect the cat5 cable. I have tried searching newegg and thetechgeek and tigerdirect for a part to fix it but since I don't know what it is called I can't find it if it exists. Thanks for your help.I went to the thread on how to set up a network and it said each one needed an ETHERNET card and I even found one that was a usb ethernet so it would appear all that I needed to do was to plug it in to the computer and then plug the cat5 cable into it and that computer would be networked too. That's pretty much it, and the beauty of a USB ethernet device is that you don't even have to open up your PC.

How old is the Systemax PC? Most PCs seem to have onboard ethernet these days.After looking, I either bought it Dec 2001 or Dec 2002 not 2003, but I am pretty sure it was 2001. It replaced my 1980's Tandy. I ordered it from Tiger Direct and it came with windows xp. When I bought it everyone was telling me I way overbought on the hard drive. Friends told me 10 GB were plenty so I bought a 20

Thanks for your answer. I have ordered one and soon we will all be on the internet together.Okey dokey. Come back if you have any problems!

Have you sent an error report to ATI?Quote

Ticket Summary
Ticket #: 737-968361
Status: Resolved [FALSE]
Date Created: 2/5/2006 3:29 PM EDT
Date UPDATED: 2/19/2006 3:42 PM EDT

I can play games with no problem what-so-ever, and high demand games at that! Like Battlefield 2 and Star Wars: Empire at War at Medium to High video settings. These games run quite well with no problem,

so why does my Video Card insist on getting this VPU error only when i run Simple programs like itunes and Firefox??

Next, run Ad-Aware. What's Ad-Aware? Please read this thoroughly: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/tutorials/tutorial48.html

Then run SpyBot. What's SpyBot? Please read this thoroughly: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/tutorials/tutorial43.html Note: I've had to run SpyBot several times in a row to completely remove some of the more stubborn varieties of malware. Also, remember to immunize your computer. Read the article and you'll understand.

Now run HijackThis. What's Hijack this? Please read this thoroughly: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/tutorials/tutorial42.html Note: It is possible to do significant damage to your computer with HiJack This! Because of this, when you CREATE a log file (Read the article and you will understand what a log file is) post it as an attachment to this message board. We'll help you through it. Also, the above article is rather lengthy. You really don't need to read it all, just the first five "chapters".

Next run Panda Software's free online virus scan: http://www.pandasoftware.com/products/activescanpro/ Note: The link for the free scan is rather hard to see. Its in the upper right corner just underneath the red rectangle that says "Buy ActiveScan Pro". The link says "Free Online Virus Scan". Click the word "Online". It *REQUIRES* Internet Explorer 5.0 or higher to run. It supposedly removes any viruses it finds, but you need to upgrade to the Pro version to remove spyware/adware. Don't worry, Ad-Aware, SpyBot, and HiJack This do just fine (and their free!!).

lose some display functionality and performance

I may be posting in the wrong area. I don't know if this is an internet problem or a computer problem. :-/

All of a sudden the resolution has gone haywire. It only happens on certain web sites (like my blog ). The FONTS are oversized, the sidebar is pushed down to the bottom. Yet, when I check it at my office everything is normal. In fact, when I log on our computer as my WIFE (we have windows XP) it is normal, but when I'm on my side it is off.

Anyone know what is going on?Do you know how to check your screen resolution in Windows?QUOTE

Do you know how to check your screen resolution in Windows?

Quote

Do you know how to check your screen resolution in Windows?

Yes. Everything seems to be in order.

;DHey Hey! I changed that to medium and all is well!!!

If only all problems were that easy. Eh?

Thank you!

if i try to tilt my primary monitor the signal goes out, sometimes it will go completly blank, sometimes the signal is streched horizontally, some times it just flickers. its not a loose power cable, or the VGA cable, it seems to only go out if i try to tilt my monitor upwards, but a couple of times it did this without me touching it, i just thump its side and it starts working again, southern lovin always helps, lol... my monitor is a 1996 NEC MultiSync XV17+, yes i know, its old, it may just be its time to go, but if there is ANYWAY to fix this problem, tell me, this monitor still works great ASIDE from this problem, and the insane amount of heat it PUTS off... this monitor didnt cost me anything, my dad found it sitting in a van in a junkyard near our house, i belive he was there getting a starter for his station wagon... i already have to round up about 3 more old 17 inch crt monitors, am going to buy a new 19 inch monitor (crt), and use it as my primary, but i still need every monitor i can GET... so i cant afford for this thing to die on me... oh, also, is this flickering any danger to anything?It is on it's last legs. Plan on a replacement as there are no user servicable parts inside. Electrocution is always a possibility witth faulty electrical equipment. erm... i'll be sure not to let it move... oh and btw, a TV can be serviced to some extent, i made the AV jacks on my tv external bc they broke off, i did it with nothin more than a 3 foot phone line, soldering gun, solder, and red electrical tape ... as for the monitor, i do not intend to attempt to service it, i have been shocked by 120v ac at 30 amps, a car battery, and a phone line... who knew a phoneline has 30v? [smiley=huh.gif] also, i have seen the movie Final Destination 2... or was the part i am thinkin of in the first movie...? either way, if you have seen both you know what i mean120V is for girls, we use 240V here because we are thrillseekers.
<---- Reminds self to stop working 'live' due to lazyness.
I've never felt anything out of a car battery using my hands (pure DC) but I know it's possible to feel a battery charger if you wet both hands and tightly squeeze the end cables. You can feel it because the OUTPUT is 'rough' CD.
I'm not sure about phone lines, I think the higher voltage comes on with the ringer.yeah, i was standin on moist earth, fixing a wet phone line, which i didnt know carried any current, it was like being punched in the gut... as for the car battery, i was holding a hot wire that was straight from the battery, wiring a car deck, my feet where moist and bare, and i sat hem on bare metal, i became the ground for the car battery... as for the 120 volts AC, that would be a miswired lamp, which i fixed the next day, i turned it on and touched the metal part somwhere, and it knocked the *censored* outta me

My friend gave me some dvds that he burned from some bit torrent website. Some of them play on my computer, but some do not. I have a 5 year old Dell with Windows XP and DSL. I try to play those certain DVDs on 1.Winamp --sound but no picture 2.My DVD software--doesn't recognize it 3. Windows Media Player--says it doesn't recognize due to error in codec. I upgraded my Winamp and WMP because they needed it anyway--didn't HELP. What's this codec thing? Do I need to download some sort of basket of codecs so I can watch these movies? Help. And Thanks.i need to know the format of the movie, is it .AVI?Yay. If you solve this for me, I will just die. I needs me some Spiderman tonight!!

Ok. Tell me exactly what to do to find out the type of file. All I see is cdfs. And that is probably not the right answer.pop in one of the dvd's it WONT play, if windows ASKS you what you want to do, close that, click my computer, click D: or whichever drive your dvd drive is, then when that opens, right click the movie, click properties, then tell me what it says in the part i have circled in the image belowWinamp media file that opens with Winampi think its .avi if it is then you will have to download the divx codecs for windows media player, which can be downloaded here: http://www.divx.com/divx/windows/download/index.php

when you start the install choose to install codes only, its pretty simple, or you can install the FULL player, makes no differance reallyROCK!!!!
Although so far one of them didn't have sound. Picture, just no sound.

Thank you so much.your welcome, with alittle tweaking it may work properllyAlso, follow the software link in my signature, then try the codecs download there.ah, the disembodied head knows all...

Windows XP Home Edition

Floppy drive has green light on consistently (with/without disk in) -

Device Manager says working properly -

Tried to updated driver but no update available -

Insert disk only to get message to "insert disk into drive A:" -

Everest Home Edition says floppy is there and working -

Removed floppy drive and attached another only to see green light is on (with/without disk) but still ask for floppy to be inserted

Wires attached properly -

Now what?


If the above is all true, I would suspect the floppy controller or cable. What happened prior to this? Any recent CHANGES in hardware or software? Did you remove and reseat the floppy cable where it attaches to the motherboard? What if you delete the floppy drive in Device Manager and restart the computer? Updating driver not relevant SINCE Windows provides this. Are you free from malware?Thank you for your reply -
Yes, I deleted floppy from device manager and restarted. Tried it twice.

Cleaned malware.

No changes in hardware.

Also having problems finding printer as well. Used disk to install as did before. Computer doesn't recognize hardware so downloaded software from hp and it still doesn't recognize printer hardware. Any help would be appreciated.

Tried restore to earlier date but to no avail.

Back to floppy:

If problem with floppy drive is the cable maybe I can try one from an old computer to see what happens.

That would be the next place to try. All floppy cables are the same. Did the printer problems start at the same time? Do you have a real Windows CD or a restore CD from the computer maker?

If the cable switch produces no diferent outcome I would try a Linux Live CD to see if were hardware or software related. Any experience with those? Do you have a CD burner?Yes, the floppy and printer problems appeared within a day or so of each other.

No experience with Linux -

I do have cd burner.

This computer came with restore cd but I do have windows xp pro update disk that I bought two or three years ago for another desktop.Download a copy of SLAX (it's pretty SMALL) and burn as an ISO to CD with Nero, etc. and BOOT with it. Nothing will be written to HARD drive at all, but see if your floppy behaves normally.

http://www.slax.org/download.php

When I GO through my device manager-->System Devices-->System speaker, it says that 'no drivers are installed for this device.' There's supposed to be drivers right? I've looked at Microsoft.com and i haven't been able to find any.Where,if AVAILABLE,can i find them online?? I'm running windows xp on a gateway. Thanks for any help!

~mistyDo your speakers not work?Quote

Do your speakers not work?

Are they plugged in correctly? Is the sound muted? Did they ever work? If so, then what preceeded the problem?

It probably is that you need to install sound drivers. Have you checked the Gateway site? Do any sound devices show in Device Manager?

This started with the mouse freezing up. Then after a soft BOOT, got this message:
A problem has been detected and windows has been shut down to prevent DAMAGE to your computer.
tech info:
*** stop: 0x0000008E (0xC0000005, 0xFAAEDCAD, 0xFA60E7E4, 0x00000000)

*** setupdd.sys-address FAAEDCAD base at FAACI000, Datestamp 41107C8F


After that it shut down and now does not recognise there is a hard drive


does ANYONE know what this means. Please help. :-?Remove the RAM and reseat. If you get the message again, run memtest (free at www.memtest86.com) Test each stick individually and then all together. Run each test for about an HOUR or so.

http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=330181

You can also test your hard drive with free diagnostics from the manufacturer's site. Each program will fit on a single floppy.

Let us know.

I'm running XP on a HP Pavilion a1267c, and it has onboard graphics w/shared memory (1Gb installed). I just purchased a DIABLO Tek Radeon x700/512mb/PCI Express card for it, and I would like to know if I install the card in the PCI-E slot will Windows automatically recognize it and disable the onboard video. Also, the memory will no longer be shared with this new card, right?Usually the onboard video is disabled automatically. If not for some reason then this can be done in the BIOS. WHen this is disabled the video RAM will be used by the main system so things may move a little faster. Be SURE your power supply is up for the CHALLENGE and watch for OVERHEATING issues with that bad BOY!

Of course the appropriate drivers will have to be installed. You may want to download the latest ones from the web site.

hi all,
i'm quite new to PC's so i aint got a clue what im buying and whether the bits will fit together etc. etc... any whoo i am wanting to buy a new PC, begginer kinna thing,( JUST THE TOWER) i have £400-500.. an i was wondering whether you can GIVE me full PC tower specs and prices for it(including P&P, cables).. that would be great! i have a 20gb spare hd, have MONITOR, keyboard, mouse. i really want the new tower to be for gaming!

the things i would want would be

1) cool case!
2)AMD proccessor(3000 or over)
3) only want about 200 gb hd
4) 1 gig ddr or more
5) a good graphics card (like my gaming)
thats it

thanks for reading

jack
Do you already have hard drives and optical drives? RAM? By tower do you mean everything EXCEPT monitor, keyboard and mouse? What will be the purpose of the system? Intense gaming? Just surfing internet? Where are you located? Do you have any experience assembling systems? By your statement about " what bits will fit together" I expect not, so you may want to consider just a prebuilt system. Again, the equipment should be dictated by the purpose.

Details like that will be helpful.Editted

thanks jackhe could buy the parts and ask a local tech shop to help, oh, if you can figure out how much £400-500 is in US dollars, then i might be able to tell you what you may be able to getHere is a currency calculator Dead_reckon:

http://finance.yahoo.com/currency/convert?amt=500&from=GBP&to=USD&submit=Convert

assuming this thing is ACCURATE, you have the equvilant of 924 us dollars, if you have a full 500 euros to spend, which, should be enough to make a great rig, you can build a 939 64 bit system for about 500 US dollars, i'll leave the part finding to GX1, its too early for me to be shoppin on the net, lolQuote

You don't have a clue what you are talking about.

I was wondering if you can have 2 mice and 2 keyboards hooked up, and functional, to the same computer?(running windows xp pro, sp2)



Viperyes, but they would conflict each other, there would only be one cursor for the mouse, and the keyboard would conflict also
I used to have two mice. They worked OK, but not at the same time. Ditto for keyboards. Yeah, I tried that. Guess I was bored at the time. i tryed it when i had to test this mouse with my other mouse still plugged in, same for this keyboardI have two moniters setup in my room, one at my desk, and one by my bed, and I don't want to drag the keyboard and mouse acrossed the room all the time, that's why I was wondering if I could have 2 mice and keyboards. Right now I'm gonna go find my usb to ps/2x2 connector.

Thanks,


Viperlol... one word man... WIRELESSI got i setup and it works fine. Oh, and I would go wireless, if I had more cash right now, but I don't so I'm being resourceful



ViperQuote

I got i setup and it works fine. Oh, and I would go wireless, if I had more cash right now, but I don't so I'm being resourceful



Viper

Your advice is pretty lame. Stick to broken monitors.

Ive Seen two Keyboards and Mice on one Comp, they work fine most of the time

Windows XP Home SP.2 fully updated. Zone Alarm (free), AVG (free) both fully updated. Scans using AdAware, SPYBOT, SpywareDoctor etc show no sign of malware. Intel mobo, P.4 1.6, 256mb ram, lots of hdd space, GForce MX 400 video card. Intel active monitor running. No overclocking. Four-year-old pc.

Am trying to install a new Logitech QuickCam. No other cam has ever been installed. The software appears to install correctly but after I plug in the camera (usb), after being prompted to do so, the system freezes or goes into bsod. Have un-installed/re-installed the camera software many times.

So far have tried:
(a) without ZA
(b) without AVG
(c) without ZA or AVG or Intel Active monitor
(d) uninstall printer which works on any of four usb ports
(e) ensuring no other app running
(f) safe mode
(g) borrowing an identical webcam and using the software which came with that - crashed
(h) plugging into difference usb port
(i) installing my webcam on ANOTHER pc running identical OS - NO problems

Apart from the problem with the webcam install the pc gives no problems and no hardware/software changes have been MADE for many months.

Have come to the conclusion that the problem lies WITHIN my hardware setup which is standard. Is it POSSIBLE that the usb ports are somehow corrupted and if so how do I go about fixing them :-?

Thanks

Bulwark:


Try disabling the ZoneAlarm firewall, and the Windows firewall in the Control Panel.

If you get the BSOD again, write down the error code (the one that starts with 0X) and let us know what it is.

DocThanks pcdoc. Tried what you suggest and got a total lockup, no bsod just everything rock solid including mouse and keyboard, no entry in the event log.

However I had a quick look at System Restore files and found one for just about every occasion I installed the cam software. So, disabled System Restore, re-installed the cam software without any problems, could then view my countenance on-screen. One by one I have re-installed or re-enabled drivers and programs and finally re-enabled System Restore and now all seems to be running as it should.

Explanation :-? I don't have one and have been unable to find anyone who has also had this problem with this particular webcam. I can only put it down to a conflict with the OS.

Thanks againI would not jump to the conclusion that disabling System Restore solved the problem, however, reinstalling the software could very well have been the solution.

Good thinking!

8-)

OK check this out.
Got the CD drives working but now what started happening is my computer would WORK fine for a while then it would start freezing up for about 30 seconds every COUPLE of minutes. I noticed that when it started freezing, the cd drive would then stop working again - light would come on, door not open, not recognized. Being the superstitious TYPE, I thought they might be related so I DISCONNECTED the cable to the CD drives, and lo and behold, my computer stopped freezing up. It looks like something having to do with the drives was causing the freezing?Were the drives being accessed when the "freezing" occurred?No.OK so its got to be related to your CD drives so,

Buy a new one , and get a new Ribbon cable as well

I'm sure if your nice to the store Clerc you can buy a CD-RW drive for like 30Quid and get him to give you a ribbon cable for freeWell no amount of replacement parts (apart from a new motherboard) is going to fix this if the onboard IO controller has died.

"Oil"? Any kind of conductive liquid inside a PC can cause all sorts of damage and bizarre behaviour.

Before you buy any new gear, it would be best to borrow known working equipment for testing purposes - the CD drive and cables as suggested above, being the FIRST place to start. Don't worry - your computer's malaise is highly unlikely to spread to the borrowed equipment.

Unless that liquid is, say, hydrochloric acid...

Alright first off i would like to say ... I hope this is the right category ...


Here is my setup, My cable modem is connected to a router upstairs, which branches off to an upstairs comp and another router positioned downstairs, which is connected to my computer.

Now here is my problem im useing Azureus (p2p downloading program ... or Bittorrent program)
Im not getting a full connection. So I was wondering if its because Of the two router setup ?
IE: Its not getting to the desired port because of the first or second router ?

From what i understand i've opened up the port i want to use, TCP and UDP TYPE of the same port. I;ve SET it up so its the same port for both And set it up to where the program is allowed to go through the firewall ( Windows Defualt, Never had problems with it before) ... Don't know if i did something wrong there.

Anyone who could help me with this, it would be much appreciated it.


Uptairs ~ D-link (some crappy router my cable modem came with)
DownStairs ~ Linksys 4 port
Isp ~ Charter (if that makes a DIFFRENCE)

Any other info needed to assist me i can give no problem. Thank you in advanced.Two routers frequently causes problems? Is there a need you wave for a second router as opposed to a range extender, etc.?Well there is only one other problem i have seen... I have my Ps2 hooked up to the same router as my computer... And i play online alot... Ever since i hooked up my second router i have been kicked off the internet ( on my Playstation). It started off at 10:40 pm every night and every morning. Recently tho, it has been doing it at a random time every day. last time i was online it kicked me off at 1:15 pm.

The reason i have a second router hooked up is ... because the only sources of internet i have downstairs .. Is just a cable with Plugs on both ends... so there are no jacks INSTALLED in the basement at this time... that and because of my PS2 i need a 2 connections.A hub or switch, connected to the router, would probably work better than the second router. See Can I connect a hub or switch to my D-Link router to add more computers?.

Yes, you can connect two routers together, but settings in one or the other need to be changed. I can't recall the details. I believe you can find info specific addressing this issue on D-Link's SITE and Linksys' site.

Edit: Google for info. Here's one hit: Connecting two 4-port routers

I bought a harddrive to replace my old one..but i just realized i might loose everything..can they transfer my old hardrive stuff to my new one or am i screwed? if POSSIBLE could i just have them both running? i just dont want to loose all my stuff..i have lots of mp3s that are irreplaceable and sims 2 saves galore..plus pictures and things..help?Yes, no, yes.
All you need to decide is how you want it setup, the files can be put where EVER you want.yay thank you.if you need help, we will help, BTW, keep the old hard drive in your computer as a slave, more storage space ...sounds GOOD, thanks alot Always a good idea to back up data on a regular basis. If you lose a hard drive then its not a problem.i dont even KNOW how to back up my data at all.Here's what Microsoft SAYS:

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/security/learnmore/backup.mspx

There are plenty of other programs that make it easier as well.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=backup+software

should i try that with 1 gig of memory left?

Hi all please help I just recently upgraded my 1.7 gig to a new motherboard and processor (2.8 gig)

I thought my inadequate fan was the problem but i`ve since bought a new one & in bios set up the cpu
temp is reported at around 60 DEGREE celcius, I think this is okay.

But my motherboard temp is reported around 50 degree celcius I think this is too high & the computer restarted while I was playing a game, I figure this is a saftey cut out.

How the *censored* do I cool the board down? Is their a WAY around this? bios setup perhaps needs changing?
Please help!!!

Regards, Del.
Tell us about case fans and other ventilation issues. If you remove the side panel and blow a fan directly in there are you able to game without incident?60 degrees celcius?! mine operates at 41, or 42, which is about 105 farenhite, if mine gets to 122, then it starts beeping. if yours is getting to 60, you have VERY SERIOS heat\cooling issues, DO NOT turn that computer on again unless you have more fans, or you could try operating it without the side panels, i have to operate mine like that, my computer was built by my dad, he unfortunatly thought one lil 80mm fan was enough to keep it cool, but it was no where near enough...Dead 60 Degrees isn't hot for a CPU, its warm , but no need to panic if it was over 80 id be a bit worryed... the System temp being 50 is a bit high tho

I would make sure you had Good Airflow, Are your computer Cables all over your Case? If so make sure to tidy them up and try to make the inside of the Case more Roomy , and make sure none or your IDE cables are BLOCKING up FANs. There so big it can be hard to get them out of the way.

And check to see that all the case fans are FREE flowing and not full of dust

A computer store near me has a MB and processor combo for 59.00. It is a
Celeron D 775 3.02 gig OEM
ATX
FSB800
2 DDR 2 DDR400
USB 2.0
ATA-133
2 DDR 2
SATA RAID
AGP 8X
P40800M7 A-A01 VER 7.0

GOOD DEAL?If it is a PC Chips board or a really unknown brand probably not. What brand is this?

If the CPU is new it would be worth ALMOST that, if that's what you really wanted. If it's used I would pass on the whole deal.

There is a reason that cheap things are cheap!the MB is a biostar and its new
If it has the warranty it would be a good deal, especially if it is a local store. Now if it is a refurb or remanufacture (a la Fry's) I would pass.Do you mean BIOSTAR P4M800-M7? I see it newegg.com has it priced at $50 plus shipping. So, if that's the board you're talking about, that offer from your local store looks like a super deal.yes that it. i went ahead and bought it and am running it now. They ALSO had a kick *censored* heat sink for 10$. Hmmmm. I may have to go buy another......pcj240ross, you must be Superman! My computer screen shows you posted your reply to GX1_MAN at 4:16 p.m. It's now 4:33, and you've done purchased the thing and got it installed.

Had you already purchased it before your first reply, or are you truly Clark KENT in disguise?
faster than a speeding bullet all i have to do is fly around the computer really fast and i can slow time down and actually MAKE it go backwardLOL. I envy you!

I've just installed a SMALL 4Gb MAXTOR HD for pictures and stuff.

And it had RECENTLY had a version of UBUNTU Linux installed on it, I connected it to my XP computer which I'm running now it was found but I cant read or write to it.

Help?It is in a format that Windows cannot use. Format the drive with FAT32 and all should be well assuming it is jumpered correctly and seen in the BIOS.

Hi folks

I've just got a laptop (dell Insperon 6400, 2ghz, running XP home) and I'm trying to find out how to record AUDIO from a playing dvd/cd.

I've tried a few free audio recorders (like Audio Mid) from the internet and on my work pc, they have input OPTIONS that let you record whatever the soundcard plays (like "What U Hear" options), but on my laptop there are only Line In and Microphone options.

Is there any WAY of changing these options? I have a feeling I MIGHT need a DIFFERENT driver for the soundcard.Well there is only one driver, so that's no solution. Ditto for the jacks - you got what you got. As for removing the audio from a DVD you need special software. CD's can be converted to MP#'s with WMP. What exactly ARE you trying to do?

I should be able to keep this simple, since I am. I have a Frankenstein computer. Runs well. For my monitor port, it came with AGP 2.0, which I don't use. From a previous computer, I had installed in this a Nvidia ge-force 5200 128Mb Dual port set-up in a PC slot. I run 2 monitors, easily. I was told that when I expanded to the use of 3 monitors, which I will for stock trading, to make sure the video card that I added was COMPATIBLE.

On the back of the computer there appears to be 5 PCI slots (?) . . .none are PCIe, with only the second one from the top being used, for the dual port display. My question is, in WHAT respects must the new card be compatible. The one I have is not offered ( at retail) anymore, actually it is, but at 256Mb. Can I simply plug in one more monitor to the AGP port that is not used, and will the comp idenify it (Windows XP Pro) and allow me to control all 3 monitors with one keyboard & mouse, or is there something more to do. ? OR, will 1 AGP hook-up work with the other 2 screens thru the Dual PCI card ? Does what ever I use have to be 128Mb.? or if its higher rated, will it just underclock to 128Mb. Or, do I just add 1 PCI single display to one of the slots in the back ? Is it Plug & Play, or is there more to do to make it all work ? I REALIZE these are a lot of smallish questions, but the main answer should be for the big picture , . . .What do I do/need to add one more monitor, and where/how should it get 'hooked up' with the computer. If you need more "specs", let me know. Always appreciate the answers here.... by all.you talk to deadly reckon. he has 4 monitors and some one said some in his car too. hes so smart and know all these things.maybe he teach u too.i have a dual monitor setup, i use onboard, and my cheap nvidia PCI card, all you need for anoother monitor is a cheap PCI card, you dont need a 256 unless your going to be gaming on another monitor, which i doubt you will be doing, a 64mb or 128mb card will do you fine. heres a good card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814102447

i intend to put two of these in the PC i am going to build for several reasons; cheap price, can have 2 monitors and a TV hooked up to it, its black, it matches my motherboard i am going to buy, with two of these cards, and the 512mb pci-e X16, i can have up to 6 monitors, and four TV's hooked into my computer, although i doubt i will ever have 4 TV's, i will have 6 monitors, i multitask like crazy. you dont need to buy a new monitor either, unless you want to blow cash, you can get old CRT monitors for cheap, like 10 to 50 bucks, depending on where and what you buy... just make sure it works completly before buying it. my PRIMARY monitor is from 96, and my secondary is from 97, they both work fine.. the only bad thing i can state about old monitors that they put off alot of heat, and they weigh alot more than some newer model ones...Yes,... I have 2 19" CRT's which I paid $20 each for . . . and I have the room for another. So I just need a Single port PCI 128Mb video card, . . and it should just Plug & Play.? Will any Mobo take two video cards ? How do I know if mine will ? . .and which slot to use ? just by 'eyeballin' it. Don't know what to look for ? Are they as easy as Memory stick slots ?I think i heard some where that you can not have AGP and PCI Graphic Cards at the Same Time.

Im going to go do some Googleing and Get back to you.Heres a link to a site where a guy has gone mad with monitors and GFX cards

http://www.realtimesoft.com/multimon/reviews/3mon_gf4/

It looks to me From this web site , that you can put in as many cards as you like and wont have to many problems

note that all the Cards this guy uses are Geforces. It would probably be a good idea to stick with the same chip-set for your own set up as wellBuzzyonthelake, if I understand your original post correctly, you have onboard video (not an AGP card), which is rated AGP 2.0. Is that right? In other words, that video connector does not use one of the wide slots on back of your computer, like the PCI slots; instead, it's located among the other connectors (mouse, keyboard, speaker, etc.) coming off the motherboard. Right?

You may be able to use that AGP port to set up your 3-monitor configuration. Why not try it, before buying another card? Have you ever used that port? You may need to change a setting in your BIOS? If you used the AGP port at one time, did you have to change a BIOS setting when you stopped using it and installed the PCI card?

If you can not get the onboard video to work with your PCI card, then you'll have to buy another PCI card. Note that I'm assuming you do not have, in addition to onboard video, a separate AGP slot. I would stick with nVidia; this will reduce the possibility of conflict. I have had multiple monitors attached to my computer in 3 different configurations. I currently have two monitors attached to an AGP nVidia GeForce4 Ti4200 card. But, I have also used the two monitors with one attached to this same AGP card and one attached to a nVidia GeForce2 MX/400 PCI card. And, for a brief test, I had a second PCI card, a nVidia GeForce4 MX440, installed and a third monitor attached to it. No problem under any of these configurations.

You can choose a card with almost any nVidia chip and it should be compatible with your current card. A card with 64MB of memory should be quite adequate.

If you, in fact, have an empty AGP slot, and since you said your motherboard is rated at AGP 2.0, and you have the option of buying an AGP card, I suggest you not get an 8x card. Most likely, any 4x card would work in a 2x slot, but assuming that an 8x card will be backward compatible to 2x might not be a safe assumption.

To Previous, SOYBEAN:
'
First Paragraph . . .everything true.

Second . . AGP port never used. Have never changed BIOS, wouldn't know how. PCI dual card was installed upon taking possession of comp. Nothing was 'tweaked' to make it work.

Third . . . no AGP slot that I am aware of. Sounds like if you stick anything in anything, it will work . . . . except for "my thing".

Happy Fourth . . . If I INSTALL a 2nd PCI card with lower Mb than the 128 I have, will that diminish its 'usefulness' , . . . like a memory stick ? Does the Mobo take an add'l PCI video card in ANY of the 5 slots I have ? Plug & Play ?

Thanks. Sounds like this could all be done quite easily & cheaply. .. .maybe just a $20 monitor . . . and Maybe a $35 card (or not).


ps. The PCI card that was reccommended in a previous post says its 'best used' in the first slot (?) which is open. Some slots better than others ? I won't touch that !
The Slots Closer to your CPU are Better because it take's less time for the data to get there

if the CLOSET slot to the CPU is in a slightly Different Place than the others , its AGP (Generally Brown)

and yes All your PCI slots should work for a new card

And The Nvidia Software for Multi monitor Display is pretty good and easy to use , so i would stick with nvidia As Well

Also the memory availbe on the Card only Affects that Card , If you Try to play a 3D game on the worst Card it will play bad , but if you playit on the Best card it will play fine, but if you try to play it on both my brain would explodeQuote

The Slots Closer to your CPU are Better because it take's less time for the data to get there

Quote from panboy on Yesterday at 5:09pm:
The Slots Closer to your CPU are Better because it take's less time for the data to get there
How many fractions of a nanosecond are we talking here?!

What matters more in a video card?
The core speed or the MEMORY?
I've noticed that the higher end cards have big jumps between memory speeds.
So I'm GUESSING memory speed?The Core Speed is more important when it come to DISPLAYING the Data to the Screen, where as having and faster memory allows the Core to be fed more information and therefor allows a better picture.

However having a memory speed in Excess off the core speed will not yield improvement as the core simply wont be able to handle the amount of data AVAILABLE to it, so it will simply get flooded.

Really they both RELY on Each other Very heavily.

Hi,
Today I bought a Hitachi 80GB SATA hard disk. I connect it to SATA 1 and try to install Win XP. But lasly came a message SAYING No hard disk found.
During restart there was a line saying Raid - No DEVICE found, Non raid- ****** ( Hard disk ). while pressing the TAb there was a message in REd colour saying Cannot raid, need 2 disks. ( something LIKE that ). one of my friends told me to disable RAID in Bios. But I can't find an option in Bios As SATA or RAID. ( Phoenix-Award winning ) My motherboard is MSI VIA P4M800 + 8237R Chipset PM8M2-V

Please help me soon.You need to use the SATA drivers provided at the manufacturer's web site. Press F6 when asked and insert the floppy.also, if ur only using one SATA DRIVE, u dont need to worry about anything related to RAID settings.I'm sorry. I am using only one SATA hard disk, But I think RAID has been activated. I don't know how to disable it. By cmos verssion is Phoenix- award... v 6.00.
Unfortunately my Floppy driver doesn't work. Can I use Flash disk ( Portable storage device ) INSTEAD of it?
Please help me.Maybe a CD would be better. We don't know if that will work in your machine because you never posted specifics about it. If it can boot from USB, then maybe.

Our printer doesn't work at all - the red and green lights are flashing alternately - all the epson website tell me is that I need technical SUPPORT - well no sh*t sherlock!

It's an epson stylus C44UX - does anyone have any advice?? Oh and I'm on Win 2000, in case it makes a difference.

Hope someone can HELP, I need the printer desperately and am on the verge of having to go & buy a new one

Tori (Toon Tori cos I'm in Newcastle upon Tyne & someone already usd the name Tori!)Not user servicable, so if uninstalling and reinstalling the printer software doesn't get it, you need to head to the shop or the store.Most likely PROBLEMS are:

• paper out
• paper jam
• toner/ink out
• print head jammed
• communication error

my computer works fine, but the MONITOR turns on only after the windows is fully LOADED. when i turn down computer, it says that the monitor is out of frequency. how can i change working frequency of my monitor (LG StudioWorks 773N). :-/p.s. i'm using windows xpDid this just start? Is it anew monitor? Is there a DISC that came with the monitor? Can you ADJUST your screen resolution to something it can handle? Finally, check the LG website if this doesn't resolve it.

anyone know of a virtual mouse program that i can control my mouse cursor with my keyboard? my optical mouse died, LED wouldnt light up, thus, no optical mouse, OPERATING a computer with a keyboard isnt very fun, as anyone who used them before mice where invented can agree too. PLEASE, IF YOU KNOW OF A PROGRAM TELL ME!There is no substitute for a real mouse, and a PS/2 one at that!Quote

There is no substitute for a real mouse, and a PS/2 one at that!

There are Window combo keys (Ctl+C for Copy, Ctl+V for paste, etc.) and really you can get around without a mouse but it's not fun and it's not fast.

That little $1 mouse will probably last longer than a $49.95 optical one.

I got a Combo drive (Panasonic UJDA770) for my Toshiba Tecra 8100. I put it in and turned on the computer expecting "TOSHIBA" but instead i got

Code: [Select]IDE #1 ERROR
And i can't open the drive, and Windows won't recognize it. What the heck is going on? I thought it would be compatible... any help would be greatly appreciate. I'll do a little research on it myself but like i said any i would be grateful for any help! Thanks!

-JohnHave you looked in the BIOS for any obvious problems :-? :-?. Try sart in safe mode then download or install from disk drivers.

Hope this helpsSounds like it is not seated properly...carefully remove it and inspect all connections.Well i researched and dug up some INFORMATION: Most standard drives operate in CABLE select mode, however the drive toshiba originally supplied with the machine was set to Master. Toshiba apparently made it so you couldn't use a drive unless it was set as a master. So apparently you have to solder a couple of pins together (45 and 47 i think) and then you can use the drive. I'm gonna try updating the BIOS first though and seeing if that doesn't solve anything.

-John

EDIT: I just wanted to clarify this is a laptop we're talking about.Well iknew by the description that it was a laptop you were discussing...but i never heard of having to solder pins to switch assignments on a HDD...Quote

Well iknew by the description that it was a laptop you were discussing...but i never heard of having to solder pins to switch assignments on a HDD...

Tin foil and scotch tape has replaced duct tape. Film at 11:00.

Tin foil and scotch tape has replaced duct tape. Film at 11:00.

Hello EVERYONE,I have been trying to solve this problem for quite a while and have finally gotten up the nerve to seek help.I am using a Pavillion a445c computer with everything INSIDE original.It has Windows xp and sp2 installed.AMD ATHLON,XP 3000+,2.16GHZ,448mb of RAM,and the monitor is f1703.After doing a full system recovery from cd's sent to me by HP,the web pages do not open in full screen unless the resolution is set to 800x600.Any other resolution and the page does not fill the full screen.I have made sure that the monitor and driver are recognized by the computer and is not recognizing a default.I have updated the bios from the HP website.Beyond that,I am lost.Everything else seems to be working normally.So, even if you click on the [highlight]Maximize[/highlight] button when you're using a resolution higher than 800x600, the browser windows does not use the full screen? Will all other applications use the full screen when Maximized?

What browser are you using? First,thank you for responding.When I first start up my computer and hit on ie and open my home page,the window is smaller than the screen.If I maximize the window it will go full screen.If I open another window on my home page that is small and must be maximized also.Each subsequent page opened must be maximized.If I open GOOGLE it must be maximized.I f not all search pages are small.When I turn the computer off and back on with the above pages mentioned maximized they will again be small.The only pages that are maximized are the ones on my start up page that are not relevant to ie.I can open HP support and that is maximized even after restarting the computer.Try the technique explained in this article: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,4149,1191762,00.asp. Did it work?I will go and try that,thank you.Let us know how whether it works for you.It worked until I restarted my computer and now the pages are small again.Is there something on this computer that controls the maximization?If I remember before,the maximize button had one small square in front of another saying it was maximized and now I must maximize every page.Now it must be clicked on to get the result.I have been on with HP support on so many occasions that I cannot count them and they couldn't solve it.Here's a different approach: Microsoft Internet Explorer &GT; window size
Quote

Is there something on this computer that controls the maximization?If I remember before,the maximize button had one small square in front of another saying it was maximized and now I must maximize every page.Now it must be clicked on to get the result.I have been on with HP support on so many occasions that I cannot count them and they couldn't solve it.

We have a computer thaty keeps going into hibernation despite resetting it. We think its possibly the video card. Any SUGGESTIONS?

*edit* Actually, it just shuts down. I THOUGHT it might be a power supply issue. It is turned on and will stay on 20 minutes then shut off. She will turn it back on and it will stay on.

*edit....again* OK. She says it has done this several times this morning before I arrived. Now its not even staying on 20 minutes. ONE thing she did mention was that it was doing it when she was in Outlook DELETING spam. I don't think that's an issue but figured I'd make mention of it just in case. But she did say that eventually it will stay on. Thoughts anyone?
What is th emake/model of the computer and the make/wattage of the power supply (it should be printed on the outside of it). How old is the macine?Dell Optiplex GX270

approximately 2.5 years old.

Not sure of wattage....210 I believe. I'm having an off day and can't find it.Well the mind readers are having an off day as well and can't find it either...The are small 200-250 watt units.

Turn the machine on and leave it in the Bios/setup screen. This will be before WINDOWS even loads, so no settings there will apply. See what happens and how long it takes.

Replacement power supplies must be ordered from Dell or a specific third party manufacturer. You cannot just go down to the local computer store and get one as the connectors and the size are Dell specific.Thanks for the help GX.

In a window shopping, I saw some HDDs with same CAPACITY, brandname, RPM,
but they are of different prices.

1. Maxtor IEEE1394,7200rpm, 300GB: US$ 200
2. Maxtor Serial ATA,7200rpm, 300GB: US$ 70
3. Maxtor UDMA100, 7200, 300GB: US$ 97

Could someone tell me what makes the differences in the PRICE?

The second item seems very resonable. Should I take it?1. Requires firewire connection
2. Requires SATA connection and power connector
3. STANDARD IDE drive, should work in any machineIf your MBoard supports it i would take what's behind Door # 2...Quote

1. Requires firewire connection
2. Requires SATA connection and power connector
3. Standard IDE drive, should work in any machine

I was wondering if anyone could help me find a takeapart guide for my laptop? Because i WANT to replace the hinges (ONE of them is BROKEN and i think the other one is starting to break). Thanks!

-JohnI would check the Toshiba site for manuals and replacement parts.
Is there a service CENTER in your area ? ?STEADY as she goes Scotty.

http://www.gopaultech.com/wp-content/images/Tecra%208100%20Disassembly.pdf

http://www.laptoprepairguy.com/laptop/2006/02/04/toshiba-laptop-disassembly-manuals/

Hi all! I recently installed a second HARD drive into my computer. The second hard drive is from my older cpu and is about 40g. The first hard drive in my cpu is about 80g. Although not a problen, I accidently made the old 40g the master and the 80g the slave. I can view the folders on both drives. But here's my question......How do I get my cpu to search both drives one after the other when I try to run software installed on the slave drive. Or, in other words, how do I make both hard drives behave as one big hard drive? PLEASE help! Any suggestions welcome! Thanks!as far as i know you simply cannot "put them together". it is not a internal partition, it is a physical partition that seperates the 2 drives.

i am confused... the "search" tool has an option on it that searchs all AVAILABLE hard drives. so it does go from one to the next. why do u NEED to search for the software in order to run it??



please clarify. i am sorry if i did not understand.Thanks Homer! U answered the main part of my question in your first paragraph! What I MEANT about running software after a search of both hard drives is, If a game is installed on the slave drive, do I need to transfer its files to the master drive in order to play it? Thanks for the quick response!no u do not need to transfer any files. install a game onto your slave drive and you will see what i mean.

BTW, any programs/games/etc. that you wish to install onto your slave drive; you will have to change the programs install directory to your slave drive. every program i have installed has its default install directory set to my master drive.

thank u homer, I'll install something on it and give it a try and let u know the result, thanks again. ok, i see what u mean, i suppose i would get the same result if installed an external modem? thanks again!your welcome very insightfullYou can try using RAID. But you'll lose everything and have to start over. Plusw you'll have to buy a RAID card. (most likely)RAID is not relevant to this question and will be confusing to the original poster. Sorry, misunderstood.

:-?A while ago i BOUGHT a FLASH drive and recently it stop working with all my
files on.



When i put it in the computer and try to open it it says that it is not
formatted and i no if i do format it all my files will be deleted and they are
not backed up.



How can i get my files back? :-?
A) And if you right click on it and choose properties what is the file system listed?

B) What is the file system on your C drive?

C) How was this drive previously formatted?

D) Are you using XP?

Are you watching, Patio?


Prediction of answers:

A) RAW

B) NTFS

C) NTFS or "I don't KNOW"

D) YesI'm right wth ya , buddy.Quote

A) And if you right click on it and choose properties what is the file system listed?

B) What is the file system on your C drive?

C) How was this drive previously formatted?

D) Are you using XP?

Are you watching, Patio?


Prediction of answers:

A) RAW

B) NTFS

C) NTFS or "I don't Know"

D) Yes

OK im new here and first I appolgise for my bad english.

The problem in short is that I can´t get no AGP BUS although the GRAPHIC card and motherboard support AGP 8x.

Here is al about my PC that I can think of:

Motherboard: P4Dual-915GL
Procesor: Intel Celeron D 2.66GHz, 533 Mhz FSB, 256KB L2 Cache
RAM: Kingmax 1GB + 256MB (unknown)
Graphic Card: HIS Radeon 9250
Hard Disk: 40GB Samsung WDC WD400BB-75DEA0
Other: Sky Star 2 DVB card
CD\DVD drive: _NEC DVD_RW ND-4571A
OS: Windows XP SP2

I have ATI drivers that came with my card (6.14.10.6517) I tried updating them *censored* when the update is finished I end up with 4-bit color quality and a low resolution and can´t change it. The ATI smartguar shows that all AGP buses 1x, 2x, 4x, 8x are avaliable *censored* when I svitch to one of them and reboot the sistem it just turns the BUS of.

I asked this question many thime on few other boards and didn´t get any response so please help!!

Have you checked your MBoard manual on how to set this up ? ?

I'm assuming it is a setting in the BIOS since that board supports PCI, AGP and PCI ExpressNo there is nothing in the BIOS (I have AMI bios )for that and occording to the manual there is no jumper. The motherboard is able having both the PCI express and an AGP card simultaneusly. *censored* I saw on my friend motheboard (I can´t remeber which one it was) he got the AGP drivers for his motherboard on a CD, I tried to find AGP drivers for my motherboard on the internet *censored* I had no luck with that.Here is the page with your drivers just cause i'm in such a bubbly mood...

Here Ya GoYes I know about that site I have searched it back and fourth and still didn´t find what I need. I tried already everithing I could think off with this problem. Aniway I think the problem is in the Graphic card becouse it dosent work like it shoud on any other driver than i have now. I have been thinkin about replacing that card with a PCI exprees one *censored* i saw that it´s not recomended to use 16x PCI Express cards. Now what thoes that mean exactly that the card wount work properly or that it will work only on 4x PCI Express BUS.Well i have to admit that their site isn't built all that well...

Try HereI think this is the driver patio sent you to.

Did you try it?

http://download.hightech.com.hk/driver/Radeon_8_231/8.231-060221a1-030896C-ATI.zip

Note: Users must have Microsoft's .NET Version 1.1 Framework prior to installing the ATI driver/Catalyst CONTROL Centre(CCC) components.
OK got the new drivers working this time *censored* the problem is still there. I noticed that every time I tried to set an agp BUS or change the drivers the login SCREEN laged. I think that is becouse the drivers are triing to use agp BUS *censored* for some reason it dosent work and they just turn of the agp BUS. Well thanx for your trouble *censored* you still didn´anvser my other question, can a 16x PCI Express buss card (Lets say GeForce7600GT) work on my motherboard which ha only 4x PCI Express BUS.You can run that card on there but i believe it will drop to the default level the board supports which would be 4X...

OK so i just built my comp. and now i want sound... i got a SET of Cyber Acoustics.. and my audio device on my motherboard are WORKING... i have them installed, blah blah, but still no sound!!!!! My mobo is a ASUS A8N-SLI.... it even says their connected... so if anyone could help that would be great....That's pretty vauge.

Do you have a headphone jack?

I usually try out headphones if I have a speaker problem. If the headphones WORK then I know it's a speaker problem.well i'll have to PLUG the headphone jack stuff into my mobo.... i'll try it...Pretty vague? Like a fire is pretty hot?Quote

OK so i just built my comp. and now i want sound... i got a set of Cyber Acoustics.. and my audio device on my motherboard are working... i have them installed, blah blah, but still no sound!!!!! My mobo is a ASUS A8N-SLI.... it even says their connected... so if anyone could help that would be great....

mine did not work i dont think they actually do work so i just bought a soudn card.....yea...go buy a sound card....i honestly pulled it out of the box...put in in tried the music and went to bestbuy....they suck...its not a good thing at all

computer= idesign 170 pacard bell S/N01157882010
i was given this unit ,told it had bad hard drive(true) however i cannot do any thing with it as when it starts no wired keyboard seems to work, the unit beeps the keyboard problem noise,when i press keys it pauses as it receives the signal(i can also wake it with del key) but seems not to recognise any key as a command (f1 f12 f8 ect) thusly i can progress no further with rebuild i have tried 4 keyboards! i have reached the end of safe experimentation any help greatly appreciated.
ps it comes with a wireles board as standard but this is fairly obviously no use at this stage.Remove all power to the machine , open the case and carefully remove the CMOS battery from the mainboard for about 10 minutes...
This will reset the BIOS back to the default values...
It's about the size of a dime part # CR2032.

Reinstall it and power up to see if this works.
If not that PS2 port is probably shoti tried that, it said CMOS/GPNV bad CHECKSUM press F1 or F2 to get default or set up,which of course i could not do! visualy the port connection looks ok but hey ,maybee buy new port ,hope its not the mother board. thanx for your help how hard to FIT new port unit?though as it was cordless before u might think it would be asnew!! thanx againReplace that battery if you are getting bad checksum errors...And there is no point pursuing ANYTHING else until this is done.First, thanx for your time,have tried the battery,and done some research before replying,
AMD Athalon(tm) XP 1700+
Checking NVRAM..
507904KB OK+ 16384KB Shared memory

F2 setup F8 Boot F12 Network Boot ESC Logo
auto detect pri master...ide hard disc
auto detect pri slave...not detected
auto detect primaster... atapi cd rom
auto detecting sec slave ....not detected
primary IDE Channel 80 CONDUCTOR cable installed
pri master V5DOA42A hitachi HDT75025VLAT80
Ultra DMA Mode-5, S.M.A.R.T Capable but disabled
sec master: T100

CMOS Settings Wrong

press F1 F2 for default/ set up
the keyboard i know to be good lights the num lock continiuos beep fault for keyboard persists but still pauses if key pressed with no request action taken
mother board is socket 426 MS-6511 explorer
i have tried USING the clear CMOS clear jumper.
i can see you guys get a lot of help requests! any input welcome :-/
ps also tried USB board to no effect.If a known good wired PS/2 keyboard does not work in the BIOS, then the port itself (and maybe other things on the motherboard) are damaged, assuming the keyboard is not disabled in the BIOS. I have found that frequently when I am "given" things, there is a reason other than generosity. I fear we reach the end of this saga with a lesson well learned!
the new drive (and memory) i bought is not formatted yet, i believed i was not that far along yet,perhaps i can use them for one of my other "need upgrading" computers,thanx again

Well I have a problem..

My laptop won't start up! When I turn it on, the Windows XP screen with the little bar doesn't come up at all! All that comes up is a quick flash of Windows XP and on the bottom it says esc for boot something, f10 for lan something, and f12 for setup. (It just stays as a blank screen after the flash)

So I turn it off and back on pressing f12 for setup, doing the HDD scan thing, nothing is wrong. I try again, press f10, nothing happens. I press esc and a small menu comes up. It has around 5 options like CD drive, network adapter, and Hard Drive. I pick Hard drive.

I get this..

SMART Failure Predicted on Hard Disk 0: Toshiba MK4025GAS-(PM)

WARNING: Immediately back-up your data and replace your hard disk drive. A failure may be imminent.

Press F1 to continue.



It then goes to my Windows XP screen with the bar, login, and works. I'm really worried right now... do I have to buy something new?? Can I fix this?

I have a HP Pavilion zv5120us notebook PC
with Celeron (R) CPU 2.80 GHz
and 384 MB of RAM (It says 512 MB DDR on the sticker?)


Please, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks. :-/Here is a comment from another forum. The news is not so good...

"Reallocated sector count, that's bad bad.

Get a new one ASAP.

Modern HDs keep some 'spare sectors' that they don't use. When a sector goes bad they mark it bad on their internal accounting system, and use one of the 'spare sectors' instead. All of this is transparent to the rest of the computer, so the BIOS/OS/etc all see a 'perfect drive.' What SMART is telling you is that you are out of, or ALMOST out of, reserve sectors. Any more bad sectors will start causing problems as a result. Usually the rate of sectors going bad increases over time, so it's all downhill from here (as you are seeing with the bluescreens and failing tests). Time for a new drive."

Good luckget an external HDD asap and back up NOW I threw everything important on another computer with a flash drive..

><
So I need to get a new hard drive and everything will be ok?

My current hard drive is like..

Capacity 40 GB
Interface ATA-133
Rotational Speed 4200 rpm
Access Time 12 ms
Type of Drive Internal
System Type PC
MTBF 300,000 hour(s)
Cylinders 16383
Average Latency 7.14 ms
Additional Features Fluid DYNAMIC Bearing (FDB) motor
Compliant Standards CSA, EN 60950, EN50081-1, EN55022, UL 1950

I see a lot of ATA stuff, what does it mean? What kind of drive should I get?Any ATA drive, sometimes called PATA, IDE, etc.

Not a SATA drive is the only CAVEAT,.

Check with Toshiba regarding any compatibility issues.Some large hard drives may not work, depending on the age of your computer.
Operating System and BIOS LimitationsWelcome back, CC. Well It's over now.

I can't turn it on at all anymore. I get a blue screen that screen that says UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME.

Bah.. new drive... I think maybe I'll just buy a new computer, this one was good while it lasted..

Thanks everybody who helped me out! Send me the old one.

im hoping sombody can HELP me with this problem! asap my burner on my cd drive was working perfectly fine then out of no where my computer says that it has a code 22 which means that its not working propper and it was working 3 days ago, or i disabled or its conflicting with somthing , but i dont know how to tell what its conflicting with i dont wanna uninstall and try to install because my plug and play doenst work like for example my keyboard got uninstalled and it said do i have some drivers or somthin but i dont have any drivers or nothing! so i had to go buy a brand new one, and i would hate to uninstall my burner and not know how to get the drivers unless sombody can help me

it shows my drive with a big red X over it its a memerox52maxx 3252AJ1
and it wont enable can sombody help me? Some punctuation would be helpful in the future.

Your next logical step is to remove the device in Device Manager and reboot the machine. Windows has it's own drivers for these things, so there is nothing to buy, etc. Frequently this solvees the immediate problem.

What are you using for virus and spyware protection?LOL sorry for that i was rushing earlier when i was typing the first time,

Im actually using SpySweeper, and Norton but the thing i dont understand is how did it get disabled in the first place, and it says that it was done because "A" it was manually disabled, "B" Its conflicting with somthing else, but it doenst say if it is, my top cd player works the cdrom drive but not the memorex burner like i said it has a red x on it when i go to the device managers

im just worried that if i uninstall it , its gonna ask me for some stupid drivers or somthing like it did with my keyboard ,because my keyboard got deleted due to a faulty tech working at HP who was supposed to help me install my printer over the phone, but instead he ended up accidently deleting my keyboard drivers or somthing, so i had to buy a new one, it worked out because i caught a wireless one on sale that looked nicer,
but anyway

just in case

are there drivers i can download from somewhere just in case it ask? for drivers for my burner?Quote

Your next logical step is to remove the device in Device Manager and reboot the machine. [highlight]Windows has it's own drivers for these things, so there is nothing to buy, etc. Frequently this solvees the immediate problem.[/highlight]

When I turn my PC on all I get is a bunch of lines and little boxes in purply, blue and red colours.
I try going into the bios but it wont let me as I doubt it could display the page.
When I press the F8 button a bunch of times it does make that beeping sound for error.
All the FANS are working. I can even hear that start up sound going after about 10 seconds that shows that stuff is being processed or something or other.

I have a feeling it might be the Graphics card or maybe motherboard.
ITs a Geforce 6600. The mobo is a Gigabyte K8NF-9 nForce4-4X chipset Motherboard

But I cant get past the screwy display.

Recently I did have a virus of sorts and some adware. Majority of it I think was removed when I get a virus/adware protection program on. Whether or not if all virus' were gone Im not totally sure.
This screen did happen in the past. One example I think is playing Civ4 and when I exited the program the lines and stuff come up (freezing) and I restart. Then everything would be fine.
But now it pops up immediately after starting the PC.

SO yeh.. IS there anything I can do?
before handing it to someone for some rip off PRICE to get fixed.
I was though planning on getting a new Graphics card in around 3/4 months. Should I just fastrack that to now?

The Ironic thing is my PC is only a about 16 months old while the PC im typing from is about 4 I think One thing you can check before you spend your hard earned money would be to borrow a known good vid card to see for sure if that card has gone South...
Try another monitor as well.Well I just took my video card out then put it back in. It appeared to have temporailly done somthing.

THis time around the computer loaded normally. Came up with the STARTUP screen that detects hardware and etc. At this point I think it dosent seem likely to be a moniter problem. I see the windows loading screen (with the microsoft logo thingy). Following this it came to a screen that was testing the 'consitency' of the hardware or computer. It did 3 tests and didn't seem to have a drama with them.
After this was done the screen started going haywire again.

I think this could further confirm it being the Video Card or possibly a very nasty virus. Probably not the mobo I think now.
Unfortuntately the other computer in the house (this one now) has an integrated Video Card.

A little more spec info though.
THe moniter is a 19" samsung sync 913b.
1 gig of ram.
3000+ amd 939 cpu
120 gig hd
its integrated sound. (dont know if its RELEVANT, but have had problems with the integrated sound in the past with the games; FEAR, Bards tale, Indigo prophecy and a few others).And if you go into the BIOS/setup screens before Windows loads is this TOTALLY normal? If not, it is the card for sure. Then go to safe mode (F8 at start up, before the Windows logo) and then use that for a while. Is that all normal? Post back and we will proceed?Okay after doing a little bit of playing around I have progress. Sort off.

For some lucky reason or other my computer actually worked right up until logging into windows and being able to do normal stuff. So I spent a fair while backing up all the essential data on that computer to this one now. THats done. My next plan is to format the hard drive I think.

However once again after the computer turned of it does it once again when turning it on. I take the Graphics out and back in and it does a normal load. But before getting to the windows LOGIN it will go the screwy screen again.

SO yeh what basically happens is as soon as the PC is turned on all I see is some really freaky lines and some spots here and there. If im lucky that wont happen for a for just a little bit in the load up and I may have the ability to see in the BIOS. Also it seems that sometimes after not turning it on for quite a while it does a normal start for a bit then screws up before login. I'll keep trying for the format of hdd (wanna do that anyway). And probly just get a new video card shortly.

Though I cant see why this should happen the card isn't all that old or anything. Unless a virus affecting the driver or some software that operates the video card.


And if you go into the BIOS/setup screens before Windows loads is this TOTALLY normal? Yes, I tryt 2-4 times turning the computer on and I dont even have the ability to access the Bios or other Setup screens. I have once but couldn't find anything to my use, But I dont really know Bios's that well.
If not, it is the card for sure. Then go to safe mode (F8 at start up, before the Windows logo) and then use that for a while. Is that all normal? Sorry, as you can probly figure accessing Safe mode is also not possible. Unless for some freaky reason I get a normal load again.
Well it sounds like a faulty video card based on what you have reported. A virus will not damage your video card, and if it happens before WIndows that really points to the card.

Did you take Patio's suggestion and try another video card? Has this machine ever been overclocked in ANY way? What is the computer or motherboard make/model and what is the video card specifically?

I'm not having any trouble, so this is just a general question. I was just wondering what the symptoms are if you have a bad processor. Would it beep a certain way? Would anything even come up on the screen?

Would the symptoms be the same for an uncompatible processor?

Thanks,
Hoop2077uncompatible??

1. it WONT turn on

thats it if the CPU doesnt WORK in the comp
1. it wont fit or
2. it blown and its HARD to hurt a CPU so its broken but still works
99% of the TIME its either Dead or Alive

there are no real symptoms because if somethings worng with teh CPU EVERYTHING will act funny inclcuding KEYBOARD LETTERS and stuff
Yes
Yes
No
And Yes.

I currently have a fujitsu laptop and has been fine up to now. It has stopped loading up CDROMs. It happened when i was listening to music, the sound cut out and then windows media player crashed. I cant PLAY music on other programs so theyre not the problem. A few hours LATER I was able to listen to a different CD before it cut out. The strange thing is that I can STILL play DVDS. Could anybody help please? ThanksTry removing that CDROM device and re-seating it...

I have tried to use the Winxp installation disk that came with my Compaq computer. The computer is about 3 years old. It has a DVD player and a CDRw. The drives seem to work sporatically. Sometimes they will FIRE up and read great. Other times they, mostly the cdrw, will fail to start, not see the disk in the drive or start then stop loading the program. Any ideas? Anyone know of a free program to check the CDrw or Dvd?not sure of a program, but I would check google.
Three ideas,
1. Lense damaged. (new drive needed)
2. Lens dirts. (You can get a CLEANING disk at any OFFICE supply store)
3. The internal triger that activated the lense when the drive is closed is some how damaged. (New drive)

P.S. A CD burner/ DVD reader is cheap theses days. I have a store were I can get a no NAME brand for $15, it may just be worth it to you to buy a new one.

How can you be SURE it is not the vid card ? ?
Have you tried it in ANOTHER MACHINE ? ?I havnt tried it in another machine but Ive put DIFFERENT vid cards in my COMP and the problem persists.

Ok, here's a RUNDOWN of what happened. My main computer (I'm typing this from my laptop), decided it doesn't want to work.

Two months ago I built one, with the following components:

Gigabyte - GA-965P-DS3 motherboard
Intel E6300 cpu (not overclocked) with Zalman Heatsink
Two sticks of Patriot memory - 512mb each
Diamond - X1600 Pro 512mb graphics card (ATI)
500GB Western Digital SATA hardrive
and a cdr and dvd drive

Computer working fine yesterday, CPU had been running at about 26-30 deg last TIME I checked a few weeks ago. Today the computer turns and I get nothing on the monitor. No beeps, no post.

I reset the CMOS as per the manual and when I start the computer up again, the computer starts up and turns off after a few seconds, this cycle will repeat ad infinitum if I do not kill the power in back or hold the button in front for ten seconds (or so). Still get no post or any beeps. Tried different RAM, disconnected both the HARD drive and the CD drives and still have the same problem.

I initially thought my CPU had died (don't see why it would) but now I think there is something wrong with the motherboard. Am I correct with my assumption? Thanks!I got the computer to work again!

I took out everything but the CPU and when I turned the computer on, I got a series of RAPID beeps. So I reconnected everything and heard the familiar beep. It posted ASKING me to press F1 to continue as the CMOS was reset. XP loaded normally.

So I don't know what was wrong, but it works now. Hopefully, I won't run into the same problem again tomorrow :-/ Cuz I sure don't want to have to do what I just did every time I want to turn the computer on. Sometimes I can swear that there are stubborn little demons in there or something... Especially when the computer just doesn't want to work Weird...
Maybe it's the mobo power connector. Unless the little green light went on...

Quote

Did you see what I MARKED for the PS3???

I installed an 8800 GTX in place of my 7800 GTX. The powersupply is a Silverstone 600W with two PCI express power cords, so it hooked up both required power slots fine without having to use molex connectors or the supplied adapters. I hit the power button and got a slight popping sound followed by a fried electornics smell from the powersupply. I've had this happen before on another computer and it still worked fine after letting it rest for about thirty minutes (despite the obvious indication that it's probably totally fried). I wait thirty minutes and turn it on again, this time it gives off an ear splitting screech much like a fire alarm so I QUICKLY shut it down. I wait thirty minutes more, take out the video CARD and turn it on, everything starts up, the computer sounds like everything's good (no monitor so I can't see anything, but I can recognize the HDD sounds). I shut it down and plug in my old video card and turn it back on, fans are all spinning but there's no display. The HDD access light STAYS on, but there's not much sound from the HDDs and there aren't any beeps whatsoever from the motherboard. I'd imagine I fried the power supply and the motherboard at least. Are there any other indications I should look for when determining things to replace, considering I can't turn it on to troubleshoot anything at this point. Once I get all the replacement stuff....what can I do to avoid this situation again? What could have been the problem that killed the powersupply to begin with?Typisch ........I need a bit of clarification....... you say Quote

The powersupply is a Silverstone 600W with two PCI express power cords, so it hooked up both required power slots fine without having to use molex connectors or the supplied adapters.

GA-890GPA-UD3H motherboard - Win 7 Home Premium 64-bit

I have a Trendnet TU-P1284 PARALLEL to USB bidirectional cable to connect my old HP 712C printer to my new COMPUTER. It doesn't work.

Some people using Vista say they changed from 64 bit back to 32 bit. Some say that some cables might work while others might not. Some talk about handshaking.

When I plugged in the printer, Windows installed drivers for the HP 710C, which is the base model for the 712 I guess. Windows troubleshooter said that the spooler wasn't working, but fixed it, and can't find any other problem. The 712C is recognized as my default printer.

I hope to keep my old printer. I even have extra ink for it, that's a real big plus. Any ideas?

HarryYes.
Never let Windows automatically install drivers for any given device...
Travel to the manuf. site...DLoad the proper ones...remove the printer in Device Manager...re-boot and install the CORRECT drivers.The Trendnet TU-P1284 might need drivers, too. I had the same type of problem with a parallel to USB bidirectional cable & an HP printer. Never got it to work reliably. An HP DirectJet parallel to ethernet converter works flawlessly.HP does not have a Win 7 driver for the 712C, but it does have one for Vista 64-bit. It does have a Win 7 64-bit driver for the 710C. The driver for the 710C is the one I have always had. HP says it does not have a downloadable driver, and to connect the device and let Windows install the driver. That is basically what happened when I connected the printer. I assume it downloaded the right driver. It did say it installed a driver for the 710C, but it did not say 32-bit or 64-bit.

There is a driver from Trendnet for the TU-P1284, but it is for Win 98 & ME. I'll wait here a little while for a response, then I will make a restore point, and download the TU-P1284 ME driver, and see what happens.

Thanks
HarryQuote from: Harryh on January 13, 2011, 05:04:24 PM

...There is a driver from Trendnet for the TU-P1284, but it is for Win 98 & ME. I'll wait here a little while for a response, then I will make a restore point, and download the TU-P1284 ME driver, and see what happens...

I have Win 7 64-bit.

I see nothing in Device Manager about Trendnet but there is 'USB Printing Support' under USB Serial Bus Controllers.

Maybe this just won't work.

Is it likely to mess up my computer if I download the ME driver?