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I rented a VPS from a company. I was ATTEMPTING to setup a vanilla OpenVPN server. Last night I was almost succsessful, but I put a passcode on my DH PARAMS. (AFAICT this was a mistake.) This prevented the daemon from starting correctly.

Anyways I was hit by what looks like a dictionary attack last night/a couple hours ago. How do I know if the attacker was SUCCESSFUL. I attached the log/mail.

I do not recognize an ip address. My OpenVPN network is 10.8.0.0/24, but it is not running. I do not know where the ip address of 10.17.0.5 came from. Any ideas?

I don't have anything sensitive or even personal on this server. I figured it would be fun to poke around before I delete it and start over.The second ip address points to the hosting provider's internal network.That's normal most of that are BOT it happened to many SITES I mean most of all sites are being attacked like that, it's like they are pinging and trying to do dictionary attack, you can install some software to ban those IP if they tries to logged-in for 2 consecutive tries, or do SSH Logged-in. To know if they are successful, you can check the logs and verify the last logged-in IP Address, if it's not your IP then 100% your server is compromised.A DDoS-secured VPS gives the capacity to relieve these sorts of dangers to your site. We trust that you shouldn't need to buy extra security or invest weeks stressing over getting an assurance stage introduced on your server to ensure against DDoS assaults. That is the reason at InMotion Hosting we consider your server's security important and give DDoS assurance on your VPS at no extra expense.

In the event that your site or DDoS-Protected VPS server is focused in a DDoS assault, our particular server structure gives a boundary against the web trouble makers and our master group of framework heads work to guard your home on the web. Remember that these assaults can keep going for quite a while, however we work all day, every day to guarantee your site stays DDoS secured.

How would I know whether I am being assaulted? Do I have to contact InMotion Hosting? By and large on the off chance that you are being assaulted, you will see that your site might be inaccessible, and your email may not work appropriately. A DDoS assault can likewise influence your cPanel organization page. Our day in and day out US based help is remaining by to accept your call, TALK or email, so don't dither to contact us.Good passwords (or eliminate password based login entirely and use SSH keys exclusively to authenticate), oddball SSH ports, and stop caring about failed login attempts. You can't do anything about them, so don't bother.

OR, if you want to get really fancy, create a VPN endpoint for all the stuff that you have to connect to first. But that's overkill.

*censored*, a decade ago, we had enough SSH brute force password login attempts that the CPU use for it was affecting throughput on some of our routers (I worked at a small WISP). We moved stuff to an oddball port and the problem went away.

It's not you. It's not your server. It's just that you happen to have a "public IP address" and this is general background noise of the interwebs.

Here's a quick report from a log on a box of mine that has port 22 open to the intarwebs:

A few days ago, some Windows updates were downloaded. Now, I'm having problems getting it to print. I've unplugged the POWER cord, the USB cord, I've tried to get a test print, I've purged, cancelled printing, installing a new driver, etc. I've heard that sometimes after downloads are done that they are capable of keeping the printer from printing. Has anybody had this problem before? I'm thinking that the updates might be the issue; however, I'm not sure. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance for any help.


Dell Inspiron 3650
Processor Intel(R) 3.70 ghz
installed Ram 8.00 GB
Win 10Hello,

I just WANTED to let you guys know that I found a solution for my printing issues. There is a download called Scan Doctor that I downloaded and it FIXED the issues. Apparently, there have been some problems with this printer and Win 10. THANKS.lisashomeoffice,
Thanks for sharing.
Would you tell use what printer GAVE yu trouble?

Hi!

Today I TRIED to turn on my Compaq Evo N1000v notebook.
It was not longer time connected to power adapter (battery is missing), I connected power adapter, LED indicates power.
When I hit power on button, LED indicator lights turns off and of course notebook STARTS not.
To get power adapter LED indicator light it needs to unplug power adapter for longer time and then connect - LED indicates power, but hitting power button does again the same...

Whee can be problem?
I found over the web nothing.

MiroBad/FAULTY power port...or the AC adapter has failed...
Ok, how to check power adapter?

MiroYou will need a DC Voltmeter to check the output voltage of the adapter. The output voltage should be printed somewhere on the adapter. For example my Lenovo Thinkpad adapter output voltage is 20 VDC.


I just checked your adapter at Newegg and the output voltage should be 19 VDC.Can help to test 5V USB power connector? Adapter it has.

MiroIf the AC adapter has a USB CHARGING port, testing it does not guarantee 19 VDC at the power plug. Also as Patio mentioned it could be a faulty power port.
Now I'm sure - even USB 5V works not.
THANK you all for help.

MiroI was sure, but it's not true.

I found other AC adapter and tried it.
The same problem - so I think two adapters cannot tobe faulty.

So, it is in power connector like you mentioned...
How to fix power connector?

Thank you for all.
MiroMiro,
Following is a link to a generic video on changing or repairing the power plug (jack) on a laptop.

https://www.google.ca/search?ei=3xN2XNDUGuTujwSN0Lkw&q=changing+laptop+power+port&oq=changing+laptop+power+port&gs_l=psy-ab.12...17433.24339..29332...0.0..0.114.513.1j4......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j33i160.JC1k0Ulvanc#kpvalbx=1

Here is another video with the jack mounted on the motherboard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YLvzzXYqcMThank you!

I'll follow one of them and maybe ask anything if I will have problem.

Miro

Just built a new HTPC 3 days ago and the internal sound QUALITY of the ASRock B360M-ITX/ac isn't the best, I also need digital output for my pioneer amplifier which is connected with my klipsch hdt-600 and I've been a die hard fan of internal sound cards since a long time because they give you a lot of options in one place. I've been away from the current market, so my question is which sound card is the best right now? in terms of sound quality, it should have digital out, nothing else is needed except sound quality. A quick google research referred me to this page of some pcie cards, are these good? need expert advice. Thanks in advanceYou could use something like this: https://www.cablewholesale.com/specs/40ts-21100.php?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20-%20Shop%20-%20Audio%2FVideo%20Products%20-%20Auto&utm_term=4577060748522626&utm_content=Poor%20Perf-%20(Bottom%2020%25)%20-%2040TS-21100%20-%20Analog%20to%20Digital%20Audio%20Converter,%20Dual%20RCA%20Female%20to%20RCA%20Female%20%20-%20%2419.17

Analog to digital converter.

Myself I setup a HTPC and due to the internal sound dying I bought a USB Sound Card that plugs into a USB port and provides decent sound. But my setup is just 1 woofer with 2 speakers in my living room.

At some POINT I am going to do away with the VGA cable connection and go with HDMI for higher quality video and the HDMI will handle audio/video and the 52" TV has an audio jack to connect to my audio system direct.

The USB sound Cards look like a USB Thumb drive but they have a microphone and headphone jack, which this headphone jack can connect to the auxiliary input of a stereo or the input of a sound system such as my 2 by 1 setup. The USB sound cards are like $15 on newegg and if Windows 7 or newer the driver for it is detected upon INSERTING the USB sound card.What amplifier are you using? Does it support HDMI? I MUCKED about with sound cards using both optical and analogue outputs into a receiver with my HTPC. It worked but I grew tired of mucking around with sound settings/drivers in Windows and was never overly impressed by the quality. I ended up returning the card (Asus Xonar DSX) after it kept dropping out requiring a reboot.

In the end I gave up and bought a new receiver (Denon AVR-X2400H) that supported HDMI. Not the cheapest option but works brilliantly. HDMI is pretty much the best quality you'd be able to get, 5.1 over an optical connection is compressed, HDMI is lossless. Works entirely PLUG and play - plug all devices into the receiver, receiver into the TV and then get audio from all HDMI devices including audio from the TV fed back to the receiver using ARC. The HDMI CEC stuff is also useful, receiver powers on automatically when I turn on the TV, I can control the receiver's volume from any remote - so much less hassle than I had with my old receiver.

Hey guys.... working on a clients PC, and a bit weird here, havent had many issues over the years like this.

• You start the PC
  It freezes forever on the startup screen while it says press Delete or F2 for setup
  When you press EITHER, no response but takes about 10+ minutes to get to to the BIOS screen, where I dont see anything usual
  With this, can I even do a memtest or any other test, seems more like a MB or memory failure?

hey

after i change my motherboard and cpu when i start any game my windows freez i cant do anything ,

i just reboot and my windows work fine and its freezing when i stay to LONG watching videos also when i do test for my cpu and graphic card (benchmarking ) somtimes its work fine

cpu : intel CORE i7-9700k

gpu : asus geforce rtx 2070 8 gb

motherboard : GIGABYTE Z370P D3



CORSAIR HYDRO Series H150i PRO RGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler,360mm,Triple ML120 PWM Fans, Intel 115x/2066, AMD AM4



my cpu not work with my motherboard

so i update my bios to make it work , thats why my screen freez when i run GAMES?

do i need a new motherboard to fix this ?

thanks

I have two DVD burners installed on my desktop PC. They both show up in device manager and says "This device is WORKING properly." Well, these two devices are not working properly. (LOL). When I insert a DVD movie or music CD in to play, nothing happens now. I thought I might have a defective DVD unit but what is the likelihood that both of these drives went bad at the same time? Should I just BUY and INSTALL a new DVD burner? I have tried things like update driver and uninstall this device to no avail. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks--Quote

...but what is the likelihood that both of these drives went bad at the same time?

When I insert a DVD movie or music CD in to play, nothing happens now.

Do you have software able to play Music or DVD Movies? Windows 10 doesn't come with a way to play DVDs, but you can use try software like VLC Media Player.

Just wondering, what about the Windows Media Player that's part of windows, it plays DVD as far as I am aware of?

Is there a SCANNER that can do COLOR RESTORATION for FADED color PHOTOS?

Thank you Term_ite.
An in-depth study of this will yield more information that what most users what to read. I did a simple search on Google:
why CF cards may not work in card readers
I got too many hits. It seems this is a common question. Here is one I thinkg comes close from Microsoft:
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/usb-3-card-reader-does-not-read-cf-cards-in/9998092b-3998-4bd2-834f-3f9ca7fee5f9
You can see this was hard to explain even by experts. There is nothing wrong with the hardware or software. It is a compatibility issue that is known, but not understood by everyone.
Here is another:
https://www.premiumbeat.com/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-cf-cards/
Quote

Let’s get the simple stuff out of the way first…
A CF card (CompactFlash) is a small memory card used in many modern camera systems. CF cards are durable, fast, and portable, making them a great option for professional photographers and filmmakers alike.

I have 5 Panasonic, cameras, FZ50, 47, and 100, a TZ10 and a G2, all of which have memory cards that have been used to download hundreds of images with no problem at all until now. I simply remove the card from the camera, insert it in the reader, insert the reader into a USB port

You go on about drive letters, folders, jpeg etc extensions, all that crap has nothing to do with the problem

I'm trying to shut down my system like I've always done on all my Windows PC's - Right click windows logo at bottom right of screen then select 'Shut down' in the dialog menu. Also I get the same result via pressing the power button. The display shows the word 'Shutting Down with the little circle image going round and round momentarily, then the display goes dark. Monitor/TV then displays 'no signal'. But the CPU and CASE fans stay running, the drives stay active (including USB external drive), and the power LED STAYS illuminated. It won't wake via mouse, keyboard, power button etc. It will stay in this state indefinitely until I depress the power button for a few seconds forcing shutdown. It will then shut down. But upon restart it will sometimes remember, and automatically re-open the tabs/windows that were running before shutdown - like it had been in sleep or hibernate mode rather than been shutdown.

Things I've tried:
1 - Shutdown settings in 'Control Panel > Power Options > System settings > change settings that are currently unavailable: All 4 boxes beside 'Turn on fast startup (recommended)', 'Sleep', 'Hibernate' and 'Lock' are unchecked.
2 - Using command prompt > entered 'powercfg -h off'.
3 - In registry > merged command 'Default_not_require_Fast_Startup.reg'.
4 - In Power options > advanced settings:
*Turn off hard disk after 3600 minutes
*Sleep after = never
*Allow Hybrid sleep = Off
*Hibernate after = Never
*Allow wake timers = Disable
*Power button action = Shut down
*Sleep button action = Do nothing
*PCI Express > link state power management = Off
5 - In BIOS > advanced settings, Quick Start is disabled

This PC has been doing this every since I installed this new-to-me (bought from Ebay) motherboard. It makes no difference what the BIOS is set to (Load fail safe defaults, Load optimized defaults, etc). I've used 2 other SSD's and 1 other HDD with the same results.

System specs are:
Antec Atlas ATX case
Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R mboard
Core2 Quad EXTREME QX6850 CPU
Antec 550 watt PSU
Windows HM X64
Crucial 4GB DDR2
GeForce 8400 GS GPU
PNY CS900 2.5" SSD 480GB
WD Black Performance HDD 1TB
_____________________________________
What to do now?
Thanks for any help!


Hi there, this happened to you daily? I remember I encounter this problem but not everyday sometimes I'll encounter this situation twice a week or so. I don't exactly know what are the problem and never tried to search for it but my Intuition says "There's probably something inside interfering" So started scanning found some, update the o.s then it goes OK.

Also If you're using some software that correct the registry it might also the cause of it before I'm using the avast registry clean it gives me some pain like it take long to shutdown, reboot, start which should not be the case because my windows 10 is on SSD so my best approach is to clone my system and to a clean format. Probably you should try the scanning and updating of OS. Hope it helps.Yes it happen every time. Never has it shut down correctly. This is a fresh OS install just purchased directly from Microsoft. The OS stays up to date via 'Windows Update'. The only registry change (not made with registry editing software) I've made is mentioned in my first post (which was not effective), so that change was returned to previous default setting. Since my last post I replaced the front panel power button, reset button and all front panel LED's, replaced power supply with a brand new Corsair RM750x, replaced the memory with 4x2 GB G skill 1066/ 2.0v/ 5-5-5-15 and set BIOS accordingly, and I've tried repairing (reinstall) the OS using the original ISO file on disc.

Any other suggestions from anyone?BY default, Windows 10 USES a hybrid-shutdown where it doesn't shutdown completely so it can boot faster. You can change the settings to avoid that or you can simply hold the Shift key down while selecting Shutdown from the Start Menu and it will do a complete shutdown.

How to enable and disable fast startup on Windows 10

Right-click the Start button.
Click Search.
Type Control Panel and hit Enter on your keyboard.
Click Power Options.
Click Choose what the power buttons do.
Click Change settings that are currently unavailable.

Shut down your system again. Time how long it takes your computer to boot into Windows when you start back up. If the difference between this number and the last number is extreme, go turn fast startup back on. If it’s just a few seconds, or an amount of time you don’t feel like you’re even going to notice in everyday use, you can leave fast startup unchecked to ensure that you’re always (really) shutting off your PC.
Fast startup might also make no difference whatsoever. When I clocked my times, I got 29 seconds from button-press to Lock screen with “fast startup” enabled ... and 27 seconds with it turned off.In 'power options' > 'choose what power buttons do' > 'change settings that are currently unavailable': - all 4 boxes are UNchecked for 1- turn on fast startup, 2- sleep, 3- hibernate, 4- lock.

As far as startup time via selecting shutdown in startup menu or selecting shutdown in the options when simultaneously depressing 'shift' key, both are 37 seconds. When forced shutdown via holding power button depressed and also disconnection power > press start button > reconnect power > depress power button, the startup time is unchanged, 37 seconds.
BUT if I turn on 'fast startup', the time shortens to 30 seconds. So apparently my fast startup has indeed been disabled from my changes made in #1 on my first post.
I now have returned it to 'fast startup' disabled.

Thank you both for the reply's

The Intel D945GNT motherboard in one of my my self built desktop PC's shorted out.
Specs are listed in my 'Specs' <<<< and here:
https://www.intel.com/content/dam/support/us/en/documents/boardsandkits/desktop-boards/945/D945GNT/D945GNT_D945GTP_ProductGuide03.pdf

So I want to replace this BOARD with another ATX board which will use at least 1 PCI and 1 PCI-E 2.0 x 16 expansion slots and has 4 DDR2 memory slots so that I can use my current DDR2 memory, my current GeForce PCI-E 2.0 x 16 graphics card and my current PCI wireless adapter. I'd like to upgrade to a Core2 Quad processor similar to the Core2Quad 8200 that I have in my other self-built PC which runs the components listed 1st in my 'Computer specs' <<<.
For the processor I'm thinking of using this Core2 Quad 9650 / 3.0 GHz
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4RE81B9633
For the motherboard I'm thinking of using this ASUS P5Q-E
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4RE88S5850
That's a total of $228.98 which is about the max I'm willing to spend on this PC.
Is this a sufficient replacement without needing to order any additional parts other than a tube of HEAT sink thermal paste?

I would check both MBoards QVL list ti ensure your DDR2 RAM is on the list as DDR2 these days ain't exactly cheapo...I see about DDR2 being costly (as well as limited availability these days). I decided to get another Gigabyte EP45-UD3R board just like I used in another PC I built. It came with a Core2 Duo CPU for less than $100. Then I bought a Core2 Quad Extreme 6850 for $32.50. Both are up and running well together with a large CPU cooler, other than now needing more RAM. For some reason I was thinking the old burnt motherboard had 8 GB RAM but it only had 4 x 1GB.
With the $ I saved BUYING a used board and CPU, I can spend a little more for memory. Now if I can just find a matched set of 4x4gb (what little the QVL list I haven't been able to find available).


I've tried installing 2 different SSD's (WD Blue 250 GB and WD Blue 500GB). I bought a new copy of Windows 10 home directly from Microsoft which installed fine as well as all other software I wanted. All was fine for about 4 days on the 250GB / 7 days on the 500GB. Then the machine failed to boot with an error message -
"no operating system found. Try removing any drives without an operating system." (or similar).
I reinstalled my original HDD on the same SATA channel as the SSD's were on and it booted with no problem both times.
Is there something incompatible with my older ~2009 Gigabyte EP45-UD3R mboard running a SSD or what.
Both SSD 's were purchased from (and returned to) my local Walmart. Should I order a SSD from a more reputable source- I've run plenty of WD HDD's in the past including a VelociRaptor WD1500HLFS 10,000 RPM / 150GB, which has been in use for the past 9 years with no problems. Has WD gone off the deep end with SSD's?Today I changed the BIOS setting for the SATA/drive controller (using the Intel ICH10R controller only)(this board also has Gigabyte SATAII chip) from RAID/IDE to AHCI. I bought a PNY SSD 480GB and a WD Black HDD 1TB and hooked them to SATA2-0 Master and SATA2-1 Master channels respectively, set to boot from the SSD, and installed the new Windows 10 x64 OS with these settings. It's running fine so far (now updating and loading additional software etc.). I'll keep my fingers crossed for the next 15 days (time limit to return this SSD to Best Buy). For what it is worth I have a Gigabyte EP43-UD3L Motherboard which based on image comparisons and timeline appears to be a similar but earlier model of the same overall design. It hasn't had any issues with it's 480GB Seagate SSD. It only has the Intel ICH10 SATA Host Adapter (it lacks the purple sockets I see in images of the UD45-UD3R). It has been set to IDE mode as I've not bothered to change it (beyond confirming that simply toggling the option results it it simply failing to boot).

Not super helpful, but I think it confirms there is unlikely to be an inherent incompatibility between the board and SSDs if my earlier model has had no issues with it.

As for memory- I too found that 4GB sticks of DDR2 are not easy to come by. I gave up on that idea myself long ago as it ended up too expensive to justify for what is a secondary setup and getting a matched set also seemed particularly difficult.Hi

Reading thru your posts I wonder what caused the motherboard to fail. Maybe the power supply has problems, causing the ssd's to stop booting.

You don't say if the SSD's are toast or just not booting.

What power supply are you using make, model and age.

When fixing anything it is important to know the "why it failed as well as what has failed." BC,
I read threads like the link below which INFLUENCED my decision to set the controller to AHCI for a SSD BUT to be SURE and set the BIOS and save BEFORE installing the OS.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/295783-32-ahci-good

Likewise, opposite as you, after I installed the OS in AHCI mode, if I now change BIOS to IDE mode, it fails to boot.

Yes, lack of DDR2 availability is my main issue now. I was even considering getting this GA EP45T-UD3LR:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gigabyte-GA-EP45T-UD3LR-Intel-P45-LGA-775-ATX-DDR3-Motherboard/273481566421?epid=3013419371&hash=item3facc588d5:g:vWcAAOSwRNlbq5O-:rk:3:pf:0

Then I'd get 16GB of DDR3 cheaper - possibly this:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233143

It's really not worth it for this vintage system though.
________________________________

Lisa maree,
My previous mboard failed due to debris falling onto the board while I had the tower laying flat working on something (don't remember what now). I watched the component (diode, transistor, resistor, or whatever it was) fry before I could kill power. lol
I didn't have my other desktop PC here to test the SSD's with. The BIOS did acknowledged them but the system failed to boot saying 'no OS found'. I wish I would have investigated further but Walmart is only 1/2 mile from my house for an easy exchange/return.
My PSU is Antec TRUE550 550W ATX, which is ~ 2yrs old if I remember right.
My CPU is 130w TDP, but the rest of the system is pretty light (see my specs - 2nd PC listed)
________________________________
Thank you both for your replies. Look for an upcoming post about this machine not shutting down fully (Display goes dark but fans keep running - retains open windows etc. - will not restart via keyboard/mouse/power button/ will only shut down when power button is depressed for a few seconds - like sleep mode but will not wake?) if I can't get it figured out soon.









This is day 17 on this new PNY SSD and everything (drive wise) is golden. Other than changing drives from WD Blue 3D 500GB to PNY CS900 480GB, the only real change I made was installing this SSD with the BIOS set to AHCI mode. Interesting!

BC, I bought 8GB (2 sets) of this memory which is running good at 2.1v so I'll settle for that.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231166

Lisa_maree, I also bought a new PS just to be sure. This Corsair RM750x should be plenty.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139233

Hi!

I want to ask simple Q:
i8086 is 16-bit CPU, allows it run 8-bit software?

Please don't ask me reason.
I need to know it only.

MiroThat is going to depend strongly on what "8-bit software" is.

is "8-bit software" applications that use 8-bit data types using 8-bit operations? Then yes. You can limit an x86 compatible program to only perform 8-bit operations.

But x86 itself is a 16-bit architecture; there is no inherent backwards compatibility in the architecture for say the 8080 CPU.

Mind you, Some clone CPUs like the NEC V20 and V30 which were pin compatible replacements for the 8088 and 8086 had an 8080 compatible mode and could run 8-bit software designed for the 8080.Is this homework?
Intel and others made a number of 8 bit CPU devices back in the mid 1970 era.
These chips har a 8 bit data path with up to 16 BITS could be used to do addressing.
The early 8 bit CPU list would include:
8080
6502
6800
Each of the above had different instructions.

Later Intel made the 806. It has a 16 bit data path and has 20 bit address.
Later Inrel made the 8088, which is an 8986 wutg ABN 8 but data oath. It works on the same 16 bit INSTRUCTION set.
This save costof abd allowed IBM to byild alow-cost PC.

Dies taht asawer your quesxtion?
I'm thinking x86 architecture.
So,
no 8080, 6502.

I know not if is 8088 x86 compatible...

MiroOk, I found some thing on Wikipedia.

For to be sure:

Can x86 architecture run 8088 code?
Of course I mean not any OS or so - I mean assembly code.

MiroAs stated by BC, NEC V20 and V30 can run 8080 code.
A few Personal Computers were made with the NEC chips. These could run a version of IBM dos and could run code written in 8080 assembly language.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEC_V20
Quote

Because it was pin-compatible with the 8088 and relatively inexpensive, the V20 was also a POPULAR end-user upgrade for systems with a socketed processor, including the original IBM PC and XT.

Hi!

I've done a fair amount of googling about this, but i can't seem to find a problem that fits mine, nor a solution.

Before i could leave my pc on for days on end and nothing would affect it, a few months later my ram usage in Taskmanagement would show up as 97-100% and I'd notice a great reduce in computer speed. Hard lagging and sluggish, a qucik restart solved the problem until it came back again after a few days of use. After not finding a solution to the problem i invested in new RAM. This didn't fix the problem either. After the pc being off for 2 weeks due to travel, it used roughly 20 minutes to boot up and launch all it's programs. I did a few more restarts and it started easing up again, but it was waaaay too slow still. I updated chipset drivers, BIOS, Videocard, and more. This cleared the sluggishness almost completely, but it's still a bit slower than what it used to. Now however it would only take a few hours of playing games etc to make the RAM usage hit 98% where the computer will start lagging uncontrollably.

-

Here is what i use the computer for and the software that runs while it's on.

-
Chrome, Skype, Utorrent (with downloads and uploads from time to time), Spotify, Norton Security, Realtech HD Soundmanagement, NVIDIA Geforce Experience, Xonar D2X Audio Center, Razer Synapse, Killer Network Manager, INTEL Rapid, Battle.net, Steam and a few games on and off. (League of Legends, World of Warcraft, Overwatch, Don't Starve)

SPECS.

Cooler Master G750W PSU ATX 12V
(New Ram) HyperX Beast DDR3 2400MHz 16GB - (Old Ram) Kingston HyperX Fury DDR3 1866MHz 16GB
MSI Z97 Gaming 7 Motherboard
Intel Core i7-4790K
MSI GeForce GTX 970 X2 in SLI
Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB (Which Windows 10 is installed on)

What on earth is causing this to happen?
I have not yet done wiped the disk and re-installed everything, that's my next step if you guys can't give me another solution.

Here is a picture of my current stats in Taskmanagement, sorted by Usage.
https://gyazo.com/3060695d4169d807723af167179005f4
(Sorry that it's in Norwegian) The top text says ''System and compressed memory''
Thank you for reading.
-
Even from Norway.Here is a short answer. Do not leave yor computer on all the time. Doyoo have thecomputer in aroom that can drop thetemperatukre down to freezing? If not, if in is in a climatized room, then there is nmo need to leave it one all thetime.

(Some sers in your part of the world leave thecomputer on becuase temperature might drop to freezing and this can make the computer hartd to stgart. Or even damage it. But this does not apply to you?)

Asimple testis to start the computer again in SAFE mode and notice if the prolem goes away. If so, this may inmdicate a background service has some reason to increase RAM usage. My first guess would be any kind of torrent software lyou are using.

Most likely it has to be a software issue.

Based on what you've provided here so far, my suspicion is there may be a Driver leaking memory. As you've said (and shown) your RAM is shown as being used, and yet there is no obvious process actually using it; in the screenshot, Your 16GB of RAM is shown as being used up by 61% despite the processes listed not appearing to break 1GB.

On the "Performance" Tab, if you click "Memory" in the left pane, what is the value for "Non-paged Pool" displayed on the right?
Quote from: BC_Programmer on June 03, 2016, 03:01:02 AM

Based on what you've provided here so far, my suspicion is there may be a Driver leaking memory. As you've said (and shown) your RAM is shown as being used, and yet there is no obvious process actually using it; in the screenshot, Your 16GB of RAM is shown as being used up by 61% despite the processes listed not appearing to break 1GB.

On the "Performance" Tab, if you click "Memory" in the left pane, what is the value for "Non-paged Pool" displayed on the right?

Here is a short answer. Do not leave yor computer on all the time. Doyoo have thecomputer in aroom that can drop thetemperatukre down to freezing? If not, if in is in a climatized room, then there is nmo need to leave it one all thetime.

(Some sers in your part of the world leave thecomputer on becuase temperature might drop to freezing and this can make the computer hartd to stgart. Or even damage it. But this does not apply to you?)

Asimple testis to start the computer again in SAFE mode and notice if the prolem goes away. If so, this may inmdicate a background service has some reason to increase RAM usage. My first guess would be any kind of torrent software lyou are using.

Most likely it has to be a software issue.

I started my PC an hour ago and read your response, the NonPaged Pool was then at 300-400 ish. After an hour of playing Overwatch it's climbed to 1.8GB.

That would seem to confirm it is a driver with a memory leak. Generally speaking the Non-paged pool is memory allocated by Driver software; if it climbs like that it usually indicates a memory leak in a driver. FWIW My system has been running for nearly 2 weeks and it is sitting at around 400.

Now, the better question is- which driver. After all, you have upgraded/changed many of your drivers.


I had a long process here using driver tools to determine the source, however I've found many reports where the "Killer Network" Driver suite is a culprit; there are many reports of it causing a lot of memory leaks on many systems. You might want to try updating the driver for the network adapter here.

According to Thunderbolt site they CLAIM that TB3 can provide speed Up To 40 Gbit/s !

But TB3 USB-C is configured with 4 PCIe lane designs which can provide only 32 Gbit/s ! (according to wikipedia)

So there is a BOTTLENECK here !! TB3 USB-C should not be ABLE to throughput more than 32 Gbit/s so how they are SAYING 40 Gbit/s !?

Hello friends

So I've been doing a lot of research on what I truly wanted in a PC! I decided that I want to game and use all that adobe software offers also, I love to write so I'll be looking into WRITING programs outside of word ( if there's any BETTER ).

I am making a list of computer components. And so, I was wondering if anyone had a list to SUGGEST. Something with future proofing in mind. I'm comfortable with lntel , MICROSOFT, and a motherboard that is WiFi capable.

I would appreciate any positive help and feedback.How much money are you willing to spend on new pc? Then you can figure out what's the best for the price you can AFFORD. Building your own can really save you quite a bit of money, so can shopping around for a pre-built PC.

I'd only recommend building your own PC if you're confident in what you're doing. If so, personally, I usually use www.pcpartpicker.com to find the parts I want with the prices compared across multiple online retailers.Thanks for your help!

i recently bought new RAM, but the slots in which I want to put them are very old and have never been used. I would like to clean them in case there is some kind of corrosion.

i've read that cleaning them with a moistened RAM with contact cleaner and taking it in/out the slot a few times would do the JOB, but I'm afraid that with the friction i could set it on fire, or is it very unlikely?

This is the contact cleaner that I'm going to use. (i've no other choice)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnHZ58Dd0HITry some canned air to get off anything I can, paired with the contact cleanser should be fine. Happy upgrading, mate.Contact Cleaner while flammable, friction I have yet to see ignite it. We use lots of it at work because we have some electronics from 1987 still running and critical to the business, and the contacts are no longer shiny gold but a dull color. We have only had 1 fire with contact cleaner to which a employee was spraying contact cleaner into an E-Stop to try to clean the contacts inside and exercise the switch, and in the PROCESS there was a spark in the contact from the 24 VDC and it almost took the technicians eyebrows off because he soaked the contact blocks in about 10 seconds of spray volume to which upon a spark there was a quick fireball that came and went because contact cleaner has a rapid evaporation rate. When I use contact cleaner I plug stuff in at full arms length away because EVEN unenergized equipment could have a static spark and I care about retaining my facial hair.

If its the gold pads that are dull in color we use a pencil eraser on them to shine them up and make sure that all rubber fragments are off the board before inserting into assembly.

For your situation DO NOT USE AN ERASER because you have fragile gold pins that can be easily damaged in the RAM slot that you are worried may have a contact issue with new clean contact pad RAM. Usually blowing canned air in a memory slot will BLOW out any contact PROBLEMS and the new clean gold pad of the RAM stick makes a good contact due to jaw pressure of the RAM in the slot on desktop boards and inserted and leaned to the locking wings on a laptop.

Only concerns with using contact cleaner is that we have noticed that some plastics are not compatible with it and so for example a light barrier in a machine with a clear plastic lens that a photocell beam shines from emitter to detector, if contact cleaner gets on the clear lens it will react with the plastic and make it permanently cloudy as the surface is chemically melted through an interaction. In a memory slot though if the plastic was not completely compatible with the contact cleaner spray it might just discolor the memory module socket and evaporate.

I have a HP LaserJet 1200 which I want to use in Windows 10. There are apparently ways to do it. But I have spent hours trying out 'solutions' found at HP's website, Microsoft's website, and other sites. None of them work.

I know for a fact the printer works. I was using it on a regular basis with no problems before I was forced to upgrade to Windows 10.

I found this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6V3aUsqRkI&feature=youtu.be in a Microsoft help thread. I got to 3:40, everything went exactly as shown in the video up to that point. Then I lost it. Datenträger = 'Have Disk'. I don't have a disk for the printer because it's more than 10 years old.

I can get it to PRINT test PAGE. That's all it prints. It doesn't print anything else.

Apparently I need this file: HP Universal Print Driver for Windows PostScript (64-bit) https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/selfservice/closure/hp-universal-print-driver-series-for-windows/503548/model/4157320

I've downloaded and installed it several times not as Administrator and as Administrator.

Here are some other threads I've found, trying out the solutions unsuccessfully:

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-hardware/how-to-install-a-hp-laserjet-1200-printer-in/863d56dd-c5dc-475d-ac2f-531ec5925421?page=2

https://www.infopackets.com/news/10347/how-fix-hp-laserjet-1200-wont-recognize-windows-10

https://support.hp.com/ca-en/document/c04675396#AbT0

https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/2153973-laserjet-1200-on-win-10

Could somebody walk me through this? Thanks.Heres your drivers...https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/selfservice/hp-laserjet-1200-printer-series/29789This may be completely off base but if the drivers you've tried don't play nice w/Windows 10 you might be able to utilize a cheap hp JetDirect ethernet print server BOX. You'd need to install the driver on it AFAIK but that might circumvent 10, be a quick solution. Sometimes a hardware solution BEATS a software solution.

Let us know how you're fairing. I supported printers for years and had a good end of day today when (after no message TELLING me install was successful) I got Windows 10 up and running.

Hello. Somehow when my screen flickers while trying to install the graphics CARD, on the last flicker the screen goes black after the brightness changes. Before the install I couldn't change the brightness without the graphics card installed. I went to the Device manager to uninstall the Video Game Controller (VGA Compatible) DISPLAY then after I do that the graphics card installs and then REPEATS a black screen. So then when I reboot I can't make it to the login screen because there's a black screen with the actual graphics card installed. Please help. GIVE the most advice. Thanks!We will need info on the hardware involved...HP ENVY TouchSmart m6 Sleekbook
AMD A10-5745M APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics 2.10 GHz
AMD Radeon HD 8610G

i dont know if it belongs here but my pc is having quite a few problems but its worked so well that i cant just get a new pc , just to clarify im using a alienware laptop and its had a problem with starting up first it blue screens and goes to the bios menu , and this is where the problems start.

1 the computer froze while reseting which ment i had to shut it down before the reset had finished

2 the computer wont reset again saying it ran into problems

3 neither i or the computer can access safe mode (ive tried using command prompt and the usual start up way to get into safe mode)

4 re-image your computer doesnt work because it cant use safe mode

5 when i tried to use a usb stick with windows installed on it and ran my pc through the usb it said that it cant install because windows is already installed

6 ive tried using previous states but that didnt work

thats all the problems ive RUN into so far if you know have to fix this i would be very thank full as this pc means alot to me and as of now ive assembled a little pc that is struggling to run this one google tab i will be waiting to respond if any further questions need anwsers.
As per .....Quote

5 when i tried to use a usb stick with windows installed on it and ran my pc through the usb it said that it cant install because windows is already installed

I have been using this D-Link DWA-131 Wireless N Nano USB Adapter since the last couple of years until few months back some random abnormalities began SHOWING up.
On bootup in the taskbar corner it shows as device not connected unless I eject it and then reinsert it back to its USB 3.0 port and my mobo detects it. This happens rarely. But that's annoying to have access to the back side of this HUGE cabinet. Have a look at the attached screenshots and the adapter
My SYSTEM Config is this-:
Operating System

Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Computer type: Desktop
Installation Date: 07-10-2018 08:34:25 PM
Serial Number: R3HB7-X6HMH-F48J3-8XJVP-9QBP9
Windows Security Center
User Account Control (UAC) Enabled
Notify level 2 - Default
Firewall Enabled
Windows Update
AutoUpdate Not configured
Windows Defender
Windows Defender Enabled
Antivirus
Antivirus Disabled
Display Name Windows Defender
Virus Signature Database Up to date
.NET Frameworks installed
v4.7 Full
v4.7 Client
v3.5 SP1
v3.0 SP2
v2.0 SP2
Internet Explorer
Version 11.98.16299.0
PowerShell
Version 5.1.16299.15
Environment Variables
USERPROFILE C:\Users\Vanilla Sky
SystemRoot C:\Windows
User Variables
Machine Variables
POWER Profile
Active power scheme Samsung High Performance
Hibernation Disabled
Turn Off Monitor after: (On AC Power) 20 min
Turn Off Hard Disk after: (On AC Power) Never
Suspend after: (On AC Power) Never
Screen saver Enabled
Scheduler
14-02-2019 06:46 PM; GoogleUpdateTaskMachineUA
14-02-2019 08:55 PM; update-S-1-5-21-4176834514-3162379232-2622576108-1002
14-02-2019 09:55 PM; update-sys
14-02-2019 11:46 PM; GoogleUpdateTaskMachineCore
14-02-2019 11:59 PM; AutoPico Daily Restart
15-02-2019 04:00 AM; Adobe Acrobat Update Task
15-02-2019 01:52 PM; OneDrive Standalone Update Task v2
KMS_VL_ALL
SamsungMagician


They fail over time....i replace mine bout every 2-3 years.....

I also switched to the TP Link manuf. ones...I don't think so, had it failed it completely wouldn't work? It still is in working condition. No...they usually start by disconnecting intermittently.....like yours is doin now.
Try it in a different computer. If the same thing happens you'll know for sure that you need a new adapter.It's 15 Bucks fer cryin in the soup...like trying to diagnose a mouse failure and waste time fixin it...

Hiya, A few months ago my laptop suddenly stopped connecting to the WIFI when it is out of the room where the router is. My flatmate doesn't have this problem so it's definitely an issue with my laptop. I've FOLLOWED advice off the internet and had my laptop cleaned and ran scans and nothing is helping. Please help! Thanks in advance!

Also it is an HP Laptop running Windows 10 if that helps.The laptop antenna has become disconnected.
The router should have a way of showing yu the signal level.
In the same room expect levels better than -40 d.

If the antenna is bad, the level will drop to near -80 db.
Otherwise a good machine can be two rooms AWAY and still HIT -75 db.
These are only approximations based on personal experience.

Here is a link that MIGHT help:
https://www.netspotapp.com/best-apps-to-measure-wifi-signal-strength-windows.html
Quote

Before you write an angry email to your Internet service provider, purchase a new router, or return your brand-new smartphone because of mediocre WiFi signal strength, you should first measure WiFi signal strength using a WiFi signal strength meter app.

I was playing Super Mario 3D WORLD using CEMU emulator, everything was alright until I switched it off and again boot it. There was a SLEEK vertical line that appeared near the middle of the screen.
Gave it a GENTLE press on the Dell monitor(the line) and then suddenly it vanished. I kept on pressing a few times but the green line was gone for good.

Thing is Should I replace it? or was it a general glitch that I should OVERLOOK?

Hey everyone, hope you having/had a good day.
i want to know to if there is anything i can do to a broken USB to restore my data. The motherboard of the USB isnt broken, however, when i put the USB into the USB ports it doesnt get detected. Can i take the NAND FLASH memory card out of the USB and try restoring the data?If you are skillful with soldering tiny parts, you might want to delve into the TECHNIQUE shown at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_catJb73LI8

Hey everybody,

As I went to head to bed this evening, I noticed the pulsing power LED on my custom built PC indicating to me that it was on and in sleep mode. I walked over jiggled the mouse for a moment and when I saw that it was not responding to the movement I tapped the left mouse button a few times. I glanced back down at the LED on the PC case and noticed the LED come on and then slowly (~7-10 seconds) fade off (not typical behavior). I peaked in through the case window and noticed the light on the motherboard was not on (this is usually always on whether the machine is on or off). I attempted to turn the machine on again via the power button and it was unresponsive. At this point I began to get frantic, I unplugged the power cord from the power supply waited a moment then plugged it back in and hit the power button again - still no LIGHTS on the mobo or booting. The only way I can get it to boot, is to pull the CMOS BATTERY, reinsert it, and it boots, goes to bios setup (as if it has forgotten all bios settings), after exiting bios, it works perfectly fine... until the computer sleeps, then it goes unresponsive again and all the mobo lights go dark. I tried replacing the CMOS battery with a new one thinking that was the culprit, but to no avail.
Some other things I've noticed are although the power light on the mobo goes out, the ethernet ports on the back of the machine are lighting up an has any advise I'dd when I can get the machine to start, the mouse cursor movement is rather jerky - if that info is of any USE to ANYONE out there. I built this machine around 3 years ago and it has never given me any indications of instability, it been extremely reliable up until this point. Here's what's inside:

Mobo: ASUS Z97-A
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 970
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB
Power Supply: Rosewill ARC Series 750W
Storage and OS: Windows 10 installed on a 250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD and theres also an internal Seagate Desktop HDD used for storage.

The only things plugged in the back of the machine currently are the ethernet cord and that adapter to my logitech wireless keyboard and mouse.
Can anyone out there offer advice on how to troubleshoot/fix this?

Update: I just noticed I can also get it to boot back up by fully unplugging the machine and letting it SIT for some time, plugging it back in and hitting the power button. If anyone has any advice out there I'd greatly appreciate it!

I am going to purchase together an AMD Ryzen 7 1800X processor and an ASUS Prime X370-Pro AM4 AMD X370 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI Motherboard. I heard some rumors about BIOS issues between these 2.
What is the real truth. My PRICES for new items are U$180 and U$136 respectively.

What could you tell me about the compatibility or incompatibility of them together?

Thank youHi MSwhip

The CPU on that Motherboard was supported from bios VERSION 0404 12/14/2018 . So unless the board is OLD stock it should have that version or later. To check there is a label on the edge of the board with serial number and bios version. Pay to check this before unpacking the CPU.

I have had a Nexus 6 Smartphone since 2014 and over the last few months it has started to shut down seemingly at random. This, understandably, made it a bit unreliable to use, so I pretty much just stopped using it.

Since I seldom really "use" it I couldn't justify a replacement or a new phone. I did some research and supposedly the issue is caused by the battery- given it's age, this didn't seem wholly unreasonable.

I bought a replacement for about 12 dollars off EBAY and when it ARRIVED was somehow able to take apart my Nexus 6, replace the battery, and put it BACK together again.

Aside from completely resolving the issue with random shutdowns, the battery life seems to have been greatly extended, which is probably just me not noticing how much it had degraded.

I thought I'd share this for anybody else who might be considering a phone replacement to address their old phone "acting weird"- replacing the battery may be a simpler solution.I have a Moto G3 with a non-removable battery. I always thought I could never replace it, but you inspired me to do a web search. I found a page of instructions which contains the immortal words "Pry the battery out of the casing using a spudger."

There is an awful lot of messing about with heat guns and something called a Jimmy. I do not fancy doing this. If the battery goes I'll just get a Moto G7.



I was a bit terse with " somehow able to take apart my Nexus 6, replace the battery, and put it back together again." I suppose. 22 star-head SCREWS to remove, things held together with adhesive that had to be ripped or pried apart, connectors that have to mate up when the phone goes back together... One of which I didn't realize wasn't mating up until I had it all together again and found the battery wouldn't charge, so I had to take it apart again, which was enough that the adhesive holding the back cover on was no longer strong enough so I had to also put some double-sided tape on it to keep it in place.

Since I half expected I'd destroy the phone in the attempt, that I was able to do it in about an hour (even considering my mess up) for about 12 bucks seemed reasonable to me.Kewl...so it works now ? ?Yes, it no longer has random shutdowns and the battery life is much longer (probably what it was when new). Also can't tell outwardly that it was taken apart.nice job and great factoid...Kudo'sI have to say, full respect to you, BC_P. You've got me THINKING... if/when my G3's battery does give signs of expiry, I might just see what I can do...

Hello!

I'm in the process of making some upgrades and I need to know if I'm about to make a mistake! I'd appreciate some help/clarification.

I have an Acer Predator G3-605 that I want to put a new PSU in. I've noticed that most PSUs have rocker switches on them. My current PSU does not have a rocker switch (or any kind of switch directly on it). Instead, my PC has a momentary on/off switch on top-front of its case, (on the opposite end from the PSU).

My FOUR questions:
1. If I replace my current, no-switch-on-it PSU with one that has a rocker switch on it, will I experience any issues with TURNING the COMPUTER on/off? Is it bad to do this?
2. If I replace my current PSU with one with a rocker switch on it, would I still need to use the momentary switch to TURN on the computer? How would that work out?
3. Would I have to somehow disconnect the momentary switch for any reason?
4. Or, do I need to just make sure any PSU I get doesn't have a rocker switch on it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!The rocker switch on the PSU SERVES a different purpose to the normal power on switch. The rocker switch is used to disconnect mains power to the machine (similar to actually unplugging it or turning it off at the outlet/power strip), the momentary button on the case is used to actually turn the machine on/off. If the PSU has a rocker switch, all you need to do is leave the rocker switch on and then turn the PC on/off as normal.Quote from: camerongray on February 07, 2019, 04:12:11 PM

The rocker switch on the PSU serves a different purpose to the normal power on switch. The rocker switch is used to disconnect mains power to the machine (similar to actually unplugging it or turning it off at the outlet/power strip), the momentary button on the case is used to actually turn the machine on/off. If the PSU has a rocker switch, all you need to do is leave the rocker switch on and then turn the PC on/off as normal.

I'm in a bit of a dilemma. So, the keyboard on my cell isn't working right, and i have a Thinkpad. I was wondering if I could use the Thinkpad keyboard for the Dell? The Dell has Windows XP, and the thinkpad has a corrupted Ubuntu install, hope the Thinkpad can be used for something like this until I pick up a USB keyboard, or is this possible? Thanks. A laptop CAP use a standard USB keyboard. But using a Laptokey board to drive a USB cable is another thing. It is very difficult.
Short answer: No
My assumption is that you need a keyboard to change things in the BIOS. Is that so? That makes if very difficult. The BIOS wants a real keyboard.

The long answer belongs the the category: 'You said it could not be done'

Short answer is No...UNLESS they are both the same manuf. keyboards it simply won't workAdditional information:
https://www.newegg.com/Replacement-Laptop-Keyboards/SubCategory/ID-3730
From this you can see they are very specific. They have both mechanical and layout variations. Notice how many there are for just the Dell laptops.

If necessary, most laptops will be usable i if you plugin an EXTERNAL standard USB keyboard. But some special functions will not work.

You have to get the OEM keyboard for a perfect replacement.

First of all, what I got in the computer:

An Asus Prime B350M-K for AMD4 mobo
A Ryzen 3 2200g with its own fan
1 memory sticks of 4 GB
PSU Corsair GS700

That is it. For the sake of testing, I have NOTHING else plugged. No GFX, no chassis fan, no external cooler, no hdd or sdd, no usb connectors.

Now, the problem is this: My computer was fine one day. I turned it off for the night, and when I tried to turn it on in the morning, it didn't work.

I plug the computer to the power outlet. The mobo's led turns on. PRESSING the power button does nothing. The cooler doesn't turn on, the fans of the CPU don't turn on, there is no video image through the on-board, there are no beeping sounds. No signs of life at all.


Now, here is what I tried:

- Tried another power outlet. In fact, I EVEN tried it in a power outlet that I have ANOTHER
computer on(one which works). Didn't change the situation at all.

- Tested the PSU with a paper clip. It turns on. For the sake of testing, I also tested with an entirely different PSU.

- Checked all the connectors and cables. Several times over. They are on properly.

- Tried swithing the POWER and RESET connectors in case the button was broken. *censored*, I even tried another tower entirely.

- Tried setting up the mobo outside of the tower just in case it was some kind of short or metal touching something that it shouldn't

- Tried another memory stick. Also tried another socket

- Tried a different power cord

At this point, I can only presume that it is the mobo. But I sent it to the warranty TWICE and both times they told me it is fine. Now I want to believe they are jerking me off, so I took it to a technician to see if he had another opinion.

The computer turned on in the tech shop. Nobody touched anything. Nothing new was added, nothing was removed. We didn't even touch the cables.

- It wasn't working

- I took it to the tech

- It worked

- Took it back home

- Didn't work


Again, I checked the power outlet. It is fine. I even tried different power outlets that I know for a fact are working, even by testing another computer on the,.

Anyone has a clue what this might be? I still think it is the mobo, simply because there is no other option.Have you tried it without the Keyboard and mouse just to see if it posts. Perhaps your keyboard or mouse is shorting the usb port. Are you using the same video connection as the tech has. A VGA shouldn't be necesary but does seem to work all the time.
Also you can force START the power supply using a paper clip when the connector is plugged into the motherboard.

Hi!

I got on this forum suggestion how to add to notebook else one harddisk.
Simply by replacing DVD drive by harddisk.

I disassembled notebook and found connector for DVD drive.
Look at image - what an adapter to use to connect there 44-pin IDE HDD? Notebook supports natively IDE HDDS, so I think SATA is not possible.
For information notebook model is HP Compaq Evo N1000v.

Thank you for all, everything.Short answer: No.
Long answer. There is no mass-produced adapter. Best chance is only if the OEM did it. It is some KIND of proprietary connector usage.Of course,you could just tear it out and make your own connector.

Proprietary.
Something that is used, produced, or marketed under exclusive legal right of the inventor or maker.

Quote from: MIRKOSOFT on January 31, 2019, 03:17:35 PM

I got on this forum suggestion how to add to notebook else one harddisk.
Simply by replacing DVD drive by harddisk.

HARD DISK DRIVE caddy bay for HP Compaq Evo n1000c n1000v n1005c n1020v DV6800 DV6900 Series laptop

It's 12.7mm IDE Second HDD Caddy, comes without bezel, you can get it from the old opital drive, free a CROSS head screwdriver
By replacing your optical drive, you can install up to a 1 TB hard drive in this enclosure to increase your available storage space.

Posted Yesterday, 08:08 PM

First my PC Parts:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cpLMYT

A description of the problem:
My screen completely freezes, usually in chrome or playing fornite and i have discord open and can still talk to and hear my friends. Most of the time i can switch tabs but thats as far as it gets and my whole computer just hits a super freeze causing me to hard reset

So let me EXPLAIN my entire problem,
I built my computer october 22nd 2018, I dont actually remember having PC freezes but i think they started happening shortly after and have gotten progressively worse and worse. So my first instinct was to think that it was my OS Windows 10, i REINSTALLED it, repaired it, and many other ways to try and fix windows 10, and nothing worked. I think started to think that it was my GPU. I had a 1050 ti and FOUND out that it was essentially bottle-necking my CPU so i bought a 1070. The crashes slowed down for a little bit, i reinstalled all the drivers and the crashes started happening again and again. I then replaced my RAM with a very specific kind that was compatible with my MOBO and CPU and that didnt fix the problems. Then i replaced my 500w PSU with a EVGA 80+ 600w psu, its slowed them down a little but nonetheless hasnt fixed them.

I then went into my BIOS and changed my gpu from 3.2 Mgz to 3.8 and lowered my VCore voltage for my cpu to about 1.35 and also my memory said it had one at a speed of 2133 and the other was at 2400 so i manually changed them both to 2400 and set the voltage to around 1.25 for the RAM.

All the tests of preformed:
Sfc /scannow in console test-pass
memtest -Pass
Cpu stress test - pass for around 1hr 30MIN alound with the motherboard
Im still iffy on my Storage devices but they both passed driver tests. PLS HELP THANK YOUQuote

I then went into my BIOS and changed my gpu from 3.2 Mgz to 3.8 and lowered my VCore voltage for my cpu to about 1.35 and also my memory said it had one at a speed of 2133 and the other was at 2400 so i manually changed them both to 2400 and set the voltage to around 1.25 for the RAM.

Hello guys,

I have sound issues with IBM Thinkpad T21 running W98. All in all integral SPEAKERS are good as I can hear the modem dialing and the different blares on setup. I have downloaded new solid drivers and now have the volume symbol and ace control back, yet at the same time nothing.

I have been informed that it is a product bug yet have no clue how to fix this. I have run an infection look at which CONFESSES all and have done pretty much everything I can with my constrained learning.

The CD/DVD appears to be OK as I can play films FINE however can't hear ANYTHING.

I WOULD truly value any assistance - much appreciated.

Hello,
I was playing Csgo on my PC for around 4 hours and suddenly I got Csgo.exe has stopped working but then I turned it on again and then I'm starting to get BSODs like nvlddmkm.sys and usbport.sys. I used to have this problem before but I had managed to fix it by reinstalling windows 7 a few days ago but now I'm suddenly getting BSODs and my GAMES are starting to crash randomly
What Ive tried- reinstalling graphic drivers
Specs-nvidia GT 730 gddr5,
4 gb ddr2 ram 800 mhz,
Intel core 2 quad Q6600 @2.4 GHZ,
Windows 7

Please help!!!!!

I have 2 logitech z623 and a car sub in my ROOM and i'm using 2 y splitters to make it work and i'm not liking it, i found this.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alctron-4-Channel-Studio-Headphone-Splitter-Amplifier-1-4-TRS-Outputs/131620783328?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

and it looks pretty good but its designed for headphones, what would happen if i plugged 3 of the outputs into my speaker setup. the input would just be aux from laptop.

obviously each set of speakers has their own amp so my guess is that it would be okay, but i would like some opinions

Cheers,
Lee!I have done this before where a headphone jack was used to drive other audio equipment. I haven't burned anything up yet, but I also set the volume to 50% output on the device that has the headphone jack so that its not overdriving the AMPLIFIERS input of the daisy chained device. Then set the volume to maximum on the device at the END of the chain and test for max volume and quality. If its loud enough and good quality then leave it there at 50%, however if it sounds too low you can raise the level until you GET the maximum volume you want however as your raising the volume your also risking overdriving the input to the amplifier of the next device. Additionally if you raise the output too high from the headphone jacked device that is driving the daisy chain amplifier your audio quality will turn to garbage because your amplitude of your output starts to get clipped by the maximum input amplitude so if you think of a wave form that is say 5 volts such as if you had an oscilloscope and looked at the wave form and saw it swung 0 to 5 volts and the maximum input voltage to the amplifier was 5 volts and your now pushing 6 volts into the input, the signal from 5 to 6 volts in amplitude will be clipped and so the wave form will get flats at the top and bottom of the wave. And this will make it sound like garbage. You want to find a level of input that never overdrives and distorts the output. If you hear distortion of the audio then you need to lower the output from headphone jack to the input of the next devices amplifier.

Lastly... There comes some risk with this setup that you could burn up the input of the amplifier by overdriving the input. But from my experience being careful not to overdrive the input I have done this for years without any troubles. If your willing to assume the risk of damaging your equipment and careful it can be done.

I spend a lot of time bored at WORK sitting on a computer (Windows) which I have no install privileges on. I would love to take a stab at automating various office tasks (especially some stuff that would involve basic SELECT queries to a database), but the only coding experience I have has all been basic MEAN stack web development. I feel like I'd be ABLE to do it PRETTY easily with Node on local, but of course I can't install that.

First of all... at your job if you want to play around with the company data, i would get permission from your boss first so you dont get fired.

If you have free time and want to explore stuff that you cant do on your company computer then if allowed to bring your own computer to work with you and have it at your desk, you could mess around with your own computer and learn stuff. However you might want to check with your boss to make sure this is allowed so that you also dont get fired.

Lastly if you have a smart phone or a android tablet you can play around with that and an app called SoloLearn installed to it to sneak in learning time on the clock and if you get caught on your phone they would likely tell you to put your phone away instead of firing you and so you might be able to sneak in learning time while on the clock VIA use of a smart phone or android tablet which wouldnt STAND out as unusual as a personal laptop at your desk.Copy pasted from this Post.

They are copy pasting random threads hhere to get views- once they got enough posts they've now added a spam sig. They are a spammer and are wasting our time. Can we ban them yet?Thanx for the heads up....Done.

I'm able to RESET up the SWITCH but, in the app its SHOWING a red exclamation point next to the appliance I WANT switched an MANUALLY not switching either

Hello everyone !

I recently shut-downed windows normally, when it decided to update before shutting down.
From now, when I power on my laptop, it stays stuck on the MSI logo at the very beginning for ever.
I cannot access BIOS at this point or do anything.

I tried without DRIVES, then it goes through the MSI logo and get stuck on a not flashing white dash (underscore) in the middle (a bit left) of the screen.
When I hit the BIOS key when booting, the black screen with the white dash appears immediately.

I have Ubuntu with grub on a SSD and Windows 10 on a HDD. I get stuck the same with any drives.
What's weird for me, is that I can boot on a Ubuntu Live USB (I'm writing this post with it on the very computer I have this issue). In order to boot on the Ubuntu Live, I had to removed my drives so it isn't stuck on the MSI logo.

It feels like my BIOS in corrupted or something ?

I went through a powercycle, disconnecting the battery and the power adapter then holding the power button for a minute, without success
I disassembled the laptop to disconnect the CMOS battery in order to try to reset the BIOS, without success.

I am wondering if this issue is related to the fact that Windows updated before shutting down, knowing that Microsoft has the ability to update firmware via a Windows Update.
Maybe is there a way to flash the BIOS ?

Here more info:
_ laptop: MSI GE60 2OE (2013)
_ OS: Windows 10 on HDD and Ubuntu 18.04 on SDD with GRUB. Ubuntu Live USB is 16.04
_ I'm pretty sure the BIOS is on legacy, but I'm not sure about fastboot and secureboot though I guess they are disabled.

Thank you for your help !I ran into a similar issue with an ASUS laptop I had. Basically the UEFI is working with the Windows OS and you have to tell Windows to give access to the BIOS back. Even with a trashed install of Windows the BIOS through UEFI only allows Windows to make changes and not the user at a POST option to get there.

So the Windows installation is trashed and the only boot is USB?

You can request the recovery media from the manufacturer and that would work with the UEFI lockout that is going on to be able to install Windows onto the hard drive or SSD again. If computer is still under warranty this might be free. If the computers warranty expired it might be like $40 USD to get the recovery media. If your computer was originally Windows 8 and you upgraded to 10 before Windows got trashed, you could use the recovery media to install 8 fresh and then from within Windows 8 tell Windows to give BIOS access back to user so that the UEFI lockout is no longer happening. My laptop came with Windows 8 and I ran into this issue when trying to downgrade it to Windows 7 and couldnt get into the BIOS. I basically had to tell Windows 8 to disable UEFI and give me access to my BIOS. Once in the BIOS I then was able to set boot order to allow for an optical drive to be at the top of the boot order before the HDD and this then allowed me to install Windows 7 clean to it. What STINKS is that if you blow away the Windows installation on the computer before making this UEFI change it is then locked out of being able to install anything on it other than the original install that the manufacturer made for it which is a headache. Hello,

I make sens.
A good thing I saved the recovery media on an external drive 5 years ago and I still have it !

I am waiting for a sata adapter to plug my HDD on usb to backup my data. Then I will try a clean install of Windows 8 on the HDD.
I will keep you updated.

Thanks a lot !Hey I have some info !

So I received my sata and msata adapter.
So now I am able to boot on my Ubuntu SDD via the USB adapter. The BIOS is still unavailable...

I also tried to boot on my Windows10 HDD via the USB adapter. It goes into repair mode.
From which I have tried to access the UEFI BIOS without success, it goes again to this non flashing white dash.
I tried to restore the previous version, before the update which crashed the BIOS, it doesn't work. I guess it is because the HDD is connected via USB ?

So what I am thinking of doing it to try the reinstall option. Though again I don't how it will end since the HDD is connected via USB.
I have also recover the manufacturer recovery media (on a USB stick). I tried it but it doesn't work without the HDD (of course, but I thought maybe it would recover the BIOS or something). I still have to try with the HDD connected via USB.

Another option I am considering is to boot on the recovery media, then hot swap the HDD on the mother board and try the recovery.

When booting on my Windows10 HDD via USB I can access the Command Prompt. So a solution I might try first is the following:
Code: [Select]Type BOOTREC /fixmbr and press the enter key.
Type Bootrec /fixboot and press the enter key.
Type Bootrec /scanos and press the enter key.
Type Bootrec /rebuildbcd and press the enter key.
Type "A" to add the installation to the boot list and hit enter.
Exit the command prompt with the X button on the top of the window.
I won't have the time to work on all those options until MONDAY, so if you have some tips in your mind you are welcome !

Having a problem with my BACK up computer, which is CONFIGURED with a PC chips P53G motherboard and a dual core 3.0 gig Pentium processor. When I hit the power on switch, the power supply and processor fan come on for a second or two and then turn off. I tried switching to another known good power supply, bypassing the front switches and re-set switch, and even replacing the power cord and plugging directly into the wall outlet. My last change to this computer was to add a 1 gig memory chip, so I even tried removing that but all my troubleshooting has not solved the problem. The system is only 11 mos old, and since it is a back up I haven't used it that much but if anyone has any other ideas I might try or missed I would appreciate the help or suggestions ! My backup pc does the same. I get around it by holding the push-button for a second or two. If I hold the button too long it will shut off again. If I don't hold the button long enough it shuts off.Did you assemble this machine ? ?
If so were all MBoard standoffs used ? ?
Thermal paste applied correctly ? ?
Have you checked that all fans are operational especially the CPU fan ? ?Thanks for the RESPONSES! I did assemble the system, I attached the MB with whatever standoffs were present in the old case, I'm not sure if I used all the mounting holes that were in the MB, but the system did work for quite a while after I assembled it. Also when you hit the front power switch the processor fan and the power supply fan come on but just for a second or two. Some others have suggested disconnecting the drives and resetting the cmos which I have since tried to no avail. When I have done this and tried with just the MB and ATX connectors hooked to the MB it still does the same thing.Cheapest most effective test would be to borrow a known good PSU of the same wattage or greater overnight and swap it in there to see if it's the culprit...
If not Post back.Running for a few seconds and stopping is generally a power supply or thermal fault detected to protect itself.

Are all cooling fans correctly connected to the motherboard. CPU Fan, and sometimes a 80 or 120mm case fan which both have the extra fan speed monitoring encoder to measure fans RPMs and shut down the main board when fan motion is not detected or not up to par?

Already mentioned by Patio, but also suggesting what Patio stated from my own personal experience with this problem in the past. Biggest goof up by a customer I saw came in wth this issue was the CPU fan 3 wire cable plugged into wrong jack on motherboard. The CPU cooling fan was plugged into the jack normally used for 80 or 120mm enclosure case fan, and the CPU fan power /monitoring jack was there in the open with nothing plugged into it. So please check to make sure CPU fan is plugged into correct 3 pin jack on MB to eliminate this POTENTIAL problem. If you got these backwards and the 80 or 120mm quiet fan spins at too slow of a rate you can also get this issue.Great point Dave...i've had that happen as well.Thanks to Dave and Patio for suggestions, I had a local guru take a look at the desktop and he swapped the power supply again and bingo , problem solved. This was after I had taken a good power supply out of another of my working machines and had not solved the problem. The guru informed me that not all power supplies are created equal. When I saw the one he installed I'm still a little perplexed as it is a 250W and the one that was not working was a 550W Power Magic. I think the 250W was a Tiger, and it was a 20 pin. If any of you guys can recommend a decent PS that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, I'd appreciate it. Or maybe you just have to bite the bullet and spend upwards of $50. Anyway, thanks again for the help.Depending on your needs that price is a good starting point for a QUALITY PSU.
Keep in mind future needs such as SLI compatible if you're a gamer and want to run 2 vid cards; plenty of SATA connectors etc.
A few good brands would be Antec, OCZ, Raidmax, and the mid to high range CoolerMaster series.
PC Power and Cooling is a great site for PSU info along with the review section at Tom's Hardware.

I have a second hand PC which I havent USED for a year or so - when I switch it on it is now asking for BACK up DISCS to be inserted into drive A.Unfortunately I have none..

What can I do to access my files, please

G

Good service by the way
Pull the drive out and hook it up as a slave in your EVERYDAY machine to retrieve the files.
Tutorial

Quote from: yesterdayon on September 09, 2008, 02:48:21 AM

You mentioned you cannot keep Windows on, which Is why I suggested you put another fan next to the computer to cool it down

ok i got a fan and put it next to my computer and then i turned it on but still same result

Quote from: Annon on August 30, 2008, 02:52:39 AM

POWER Supply is failing.

Before you draw the conclusion that your power supply has failed, make sure it is connected properly and set to the correct voltage. So don’t immediately run out and get a new power supply until you are sure that the old one is not any good. You don’t have to be a technician to detect some of the signs that your power supply is on the way out, but you do have to pay attention to your computer.

If you can not hear the fans turning, or if your system is hot , you have a problem.

Spontaneous reboots and lock ups are a warning sign. If your system, on occasion, decides to shut down on its own accord, it may be the power supply. A system that freezes up is a sign as well. These are often DEFENSIVE mechanisms on the part of your motherboard.

Unhook all of your peripherals and try your system. If it works properly, then it might be one of your accessories that may be causing the problem rather than the PSU.

I'm so worried. I don't know what to do. I have a Maxtor One Touch III mini hard drive, which I've been using for the past two years or so. It was working fine just a few days ago, but just today, I plugged it into my computer and nothing appeared. I went to "My Computer" and there was nothing--no sign of any hard drive. Then my computer froze, so I shut it down and plugged the hard drive into another computer. Same thing. Plugged it into my 3rd computer, and nothing except STRANGE clicking sounds coming from the hard drive.

Oh my g...I'm seriously worried...I have years of photo and important data that I cannot bear to LOSE!!

Can someone help me? Anything I can do? Is the hard drive broken (nightmare come alive)? Can it be fixed?

Thanks so much!
Sounds like the drive is toastyou could try a new usb cord. Also, External USB drives are simply a internal drive in a USB drive enclosure. I once had a CD rom do something similar and I took the drive out of the case and made it a internal drive and it works fine to this day. Maybe the usb interface on the drive is broke and not the drive itself.I dont know much about that drive thoughIf you are sure the clicking is from the external HDD STOP using it immediately if you want any chance of RECOVERING that data...You are hearing the click of death [harddrive]Did you ever figure out your HD issue ? If not let me know I may be able to help.

Thank you, Adam


[Removed. Do not ADVERTISE on our forum]

i need to reduce the amount of pixels in PHOTOS to load them into photo frame

WOULD anyone know of a free jpeg cruncher or jpeg compressor prog; as the TRAIL ones will not LET you save any photos

thank you for any help , HARRY

i may have put this in the wrong forumIrfanview.

FREE.thank you patio , harry

I am working with a custom built computer, the motherboard is an MSI ms-7030, processor AMD Atholon 64, 2.01 Ghz, with a NVIDIA GEForce fx 5500 graphics card. my problem is. Sometimes when I put a picture uploaded from a digital camera as my desktop background then start the computer back up there is a BLANK screen with an error message "no video input". the computer boots normally but this error message with the blank screen will keep comming up. If left for a few days the computer will start up without the error, I will restore to a point before the picture was used for the backgound an it will work normally again any thoughts on what the problem is would be appreciated.

ThanksNo Video Input generally is that the monitor is not getting a signal.. What do you use for screen resolution, and have to checked your video cable etc. Also how old is this DISPLAY and have you tested with a different display to see if the display is not syncing up to the video out. Also your graphics ADAPTER is an older GPU...how healthy is this card ( does it play games fine etc )...Also you stated that it boots fine but no signal... does the display show after a short while or something to GET to a good state? Sometimes weak power supplies will allow for the system to boot, but black screen ( no video ). So many things can be the cause...more info is NEEDED to go in a direction. As far as the image itself causing this...that is very unlikely. No Signal is NO Signal when it comes to NO Video Input. I think you are looking at a power supply that is tired or weak or inefficient for the power demand ( how many watts by the way ), a monitor issue, monitor cable issue, driver issue with the graphics adapter ( what version of nvidia Geforce are you using such as version 84.xx, or 192.xx etc, or the graphics adapter may be on its way out.

I'd go to NVidia's web site and make sure you have latest drivers for that card and not using Windows Default Drivers... see what happens and report back.

Hahaha -

I almost expected you were maybe gonna suggest a small charge of C4 LOL.

Well - I guess the water treatment is ''different''!!! Think I'll stick to compressed air.

BTW - the hose has a leak part ways along.!

Where was that anyways? Some vacation spot?The reason i can't say is i was using someone else's water which you can see in the photo...
And i did quite a few machines that day.
I don't think they were happy... Thats an awfully big hose for such a small trickle of water......

I had someone tell me once that you could clean computer hardware that way but I did'nt believe them..... now I'm a believer.Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 05, 2009, 02:25:29 AM

You can seriously damage the sockets pulling them like that not to mention yourself when it lets go and gets you in the face

Oh, saw my former employer hit himself in the face in late 06 when he yanked a LGA775 heatsink off that had baked on ceramic based thermal paste.

The audio ports are held on by nothing but solder and an external aluminum jacket, which, is also soldered on.

Hi there!

I have quite a dilemma. Some months ago my laptop accidentally hit our hardwood floors with quite a bang. It was off for several days, without any luck of turning it on. Then, suddenly, one evening I pressed the power button and it came to life. From then on, it's been frequently freezing and I'll have to TAP the computer or shake it to resume. Normally I would have just backed up and bought a new hard drive, but this laptop has a lot of programs that I no longer have the discs for. I was able to back up most of it a while ago, but then mysteriously my external hard drive stopped working and DVD writing is not even possible on here due to the frequent freezing.

Just recently it died for at least two weeks and that was the last straw for me. Programs or not, I just needed to get my important pictures and files off of there so I wouldn't have to pay $300 for data recovery. (I'd already done that with another laptop!!!)

Two nights ago I took it to a friend's house who took the hard drive out and tried it on his (Mac) computer. It didn't spin up. He put it back in and we sat around talking for half an hour, during which I kept poking the power button. Then, suddenly, it -- again -- sprung to life. (Fortunately that provided us an opportunity to back up my files!)

I just am confused, the hard drive runs fine when not freezing... Could this be a problem with the connection INSIDE the laptop from the motherboard to the hard drive or something? I would love to be able to keep the same hard drive, but will sacrifice the programs if I need to get a new hard drive. Or is there a way to duplicate the data - create an image? somehow?

Even now it will freeze up unless I position it a certain way or have pressure on a certain part of the laptop. Does anyone have any thoughts on what I could do or what might be causing the problem -- if it sounds definitely like a hard drive problem or rather a connection problem? I would greatly appreciate it. It does seem to me as tho the bearings for the plattens may have been disturbed thru the impact trauma ... and so chances are that poor HDD is close to the graveyard!

Your mention of critical positioning to get it running is what makes me think this. Maybe too - even the head arm/arms have suffered even tho they are very low mass ... but if data can be retrieved at all then misalignment perhaps within bounds.Hi Chris,

Thanks for your reply.

Is there any way to duplicate my hard drive contents so I can retain my operating system settings, programs, etc.? Or is the only way to start from a new drive, new install of everything?

Thank you!!
SaraI fear a fresh start is PROBABLY the only realistic option. First priority, providing you can achieve it, is rescuing the valuable data and at least have that backed up.

Only way to manage re the OS and programs on there would seem to be managing to have the thing running long enough to produce an ISO image that could be burned to DVD or CDs ..... using something like Acronis but - I rather doubt this would be easy - tho worthy of consideration.Your options depend on what your goals for the machine are...
do you
A) Plan on replacing the drive and still using the laptop even though the same issues may occur from internal damage ?
Or
B) Plan on just saving all your apps and data for another machine ? /My SON had a similar experience after dropping his laptop. It TURNED out to be the motherboard.Hi guys - thanks soooo much for your helpful posts.

I'm on the computer right now. It can run ... if I hold it in the right position!!

I have got all the important data off, and have no doubt that I would be able to make an ISO . Burning it to a disc, is another matter. It did not like when I tried to burn a disc before.

patio, I don't care if it is a new computer or new hard drive in my old computer -- I just would like to be able to keep all my programs. I was thinking ISO so we'll see. . .

If the motherboard is broken, I would have to get a new laptop...right?The quote that I got was in the $400 range. I didn't try elsewhere. It was time to upgrade to a new laptop anyway.