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Hi,

NEW to your forums. THANKS in advance for any help.
What are the best options for a SOUND CARD that will output bit perfect pcm in s/pdif (of at least 24/96, 192 would be better) for less than $200? I don’t ANTICIPATE needing any other function from the sound card.

laptop (Dell precision M90)

OK let me start at the begining.. My laptop developed a fault and dell sent out a tech to replace the Motherboard and Graphics CARD. Then about 2 weeks later I formatted and reinstalled WINDOW XP. Now 3 months later I try to connect my laptop up to my samsung 37" LCD TV and it wont work the screen on the TV stays blank. Trying to connect by VGA

Allso befor the tech visited the laptop would work no problem on the TV. I would be very greatfull of any help.

kind of need my laptop working for a college presentation

thank stevenQuote

...formatted and reinstalled window XP.

where could I check i have the most uptodate driver

besides, I think geek9pm did a GOOD job EXPLAINING the info about the signal.


Quote from: nymph4 on January 29, 2009, 12:56:52 PM

OK I whent on google

OMG! we've made a breakthrough! Nymph4 visited google to seek information!

i cannot reformat my COMPUTER because this error OCCURRED in the middle of reformatting.

OS: windows xp sp2
Processor: intel r pentium r dual cpu
memory: 1024 mb ram E2140 @ 1.60 GHZ Tell the WHOLE STORY from the very beginning.
What are you using there to format? Windows XP CD? Legit?

Yes.
It will WIPE all the data so you NEED to CONSIDER some alternatives before proceeding...

Video Card = Nvidia 8600GTS - its about 2 years old

I've had a rolling issue with this card for awhile and wish I didn't buy it. However I've gotten by with its little quirks, but now I can't even get it to boot.

I turn on my computer, everything seems to be on and working fine but my computer screen doesn't come on. It goes from being on to power save MODE, so I assumed the video card wasn't working properly.

I checked all the connections first, nothing was out of order. I turned the whole computer off and restarted the machine. Still nothing.

One of the things I did notice about it was that the video card does have power going through it. I know that because the fan is on. Usually boot mode for the video card goes like this:

1) turns on
2) goes to full power on the fan
3) goes back to normal setting on the fan

However, the fan keeps at full power. Not sure why this is. So all I know is the video card is getting power but the connection doesn't seem to be sound.

I check the wires, everything seems to be in order. I even switched out 3 different connectors to the video card, still nothing.

Any advice on my next step would be cool, I know this thing works just not sure if its salvagable.Quote

Any advice on my next step would be cool, I know this thing works just not sure if its salvagable.

I even took out the ram to see if it was a post error, still won't work :/

Quote from: Karroog on January 23, 2009, 12:39:32 PM

I even took out the ram to see if it was a post error, still won't work :/

Well was there a post error (beeps) when you took out the ram? Also, I asked if you could boot into safe mode to rule out it been a corrupt driver.

This is concerning my inability to connect through either of the 2 X COM PORT Daughterboard ports on a mini-ITX system I recently purchased. I am running XP service pack 3. The motherboard is a Jetway J7F2WE-2G with 1 GB memory.

Here is info that may be of help. COM1, the original I believe, works fine. I attached a gps to all ports and only COM1 was RECEIVING NMEA data from the gps. The mapping software has the ability to show the raw input from the gps. I deselected FIFO buffers on COM2 but no change. I hooked up a modem to COM 1 and it works fine but will not work with COM2.

I checked the BIOS and got the following addresses and IRQ:

Serial 1 3F8 IRQ4
Serial 2 2F8 IRQ3
Parallel 378 IRQ7

I USED MSD.EXE and got the following info:

IRQAddressDesc.Detected
30396:0054COM2, COM4COM2, COM4
40396:006ECOM1, COM3COM1, COM3
50396:0088LPT2LPT2
7020C:03FFLPT1LPT1

From the device manager I got the following resource data:

COM1 03F8-03FF
COM202F8-02FF
LPT10378-037F
No LPT2

Any hint? Thanks.

Is there a options propertiy for the GPS interface software to tell it which port to use for communications...Could the port be set to Com 1 in this software as the listening port and you have device plugged into Com 2? ALSO guessing that you have baud rate and serial partity bit etc set the same between both com 1 and com 2.

Is this modem an external or internal modem and are you trying to use both devices at same time? ( One device Com 1 and other Com 2 ?) Or is modem used just to troubleshoot com 2 port.Thanks Dave for the reply. The modem is a Pactor II external for doing email via HF radio. Both it and the GPS have the option of changing COM ports and I have thoroughly checked out that route. The baud rate and parity are the same on both. It is possible that I would want to use both at the same time but have not attempted that yet as I only have the original COM AVAILABLE. Any ideas are appreciated.More info. It turns out the daughter board wasn't well connected. Once I reinstalled, the system saw the additional ports. Unfortunately they still don't work. They are properly enabled in BIOS and set up with the following addresses:

Serial 1 3F8 IRQ4
Serial 2 2F8 IRQ3
Add-on Serial 3 3E8 IRQ4
Add-on Serial 4 2E8 IRQ3

I have TRIED a GPS and a Pactor II modem on each adjusting the software according to which port is to be used and nothing comes through except on the original COM1 where both the GPS and modem communicate with their respective software applications. Any ideas would be appreciated as I am in Turkey and getting a replacement is going to be difficult.

I have a DELL xps model DCTA, i believe it is a 400. I can not get it to BOOT and here is how all started. Earlier today the usb ports would not work, i unplug everything and plugged each thing individually but nothing worked. as i was working on it, it shut down. It would only display the DELL logo with the loading bar. the bar only went about 1/8 of the way then it froze. Then i took the memory out, the modem and video card. the fan went on and it beep several TIME. i unplugged it put in one memory card - plugged it in the fan went on then off after a two seconds. then i put a second one in, in slot 2 in case it needed 2. same thing HAPPENED. i plugged the video card in same thing. Need some help as i can even get thru to dell support and i use this for business. Hard drive is good, i took it out and put it in another system. backed everything up with no problem. Quote

was working on it, it shut down

Ok This is weird yet give me time to explain. I really need someones help!

I bought a refurbished computer last June 2008. It's a HP Pavilion m8200n Media Computer. It's awesome and I dearly love it. Over the last month. I've noticed a low humming sound coming from the Tower. At times during the day it will get louder. I took the computer to my computer repair guy, here in my township. We left it on for about an hour. There was no humming or any should coming from the tower. It was very quiet. Like when I purchased it. So he advised me to take the computer back home, and trouble shoot again. I have a surge protector which is by Belkin. It's the Surge Master Model Number: F5C140. It's like a tray and I have my 19" Flat Panel LCD Monitor on it. I have the computer plugged into it, the monitor, the 80gig external hardrive & lastly the printer plugged into it. This morning as I write this, there is no sound coming from it. Yet more than likely it will come back as the day progresses. Can anyone shed some light on this. Could it be that the Surge Protector is old and I need a new one, an it is the cause of the sound? Or Could it be that it's not enough Power for the computer?

Is there a certain amount of Joules that should be used for my computer set up? Any help with this would be greatly APPRECIATED. Oh The surge protector is 840 Joules & it's described as a surge suppressor. What is the difference between that and a protector?



[attachment deleted by admin]If the case is metal, it could be that it is resonating because of vibration from the HARD drive(s) and/or fan(s). You could test this by placing some pressure on the case to acoustically damp it say by pressing down on the top of it with your hand or placing a heavy object such as a book or a full cakebox of disks there, to see if the note of the hum changes or if it disappears. Alternatively it may be that screws have loosened, so you could check the disk & fan mountings, and the screws holding the case together.

If the computer is working OK I would not be worrying too much. It could be that the cpu heatsink is clogged up with dust or FLUFF and therefore the fan has more work to do to keep it cool, so sounds louder as the day goes on.

Unfortunately you do not describe the sound very well. is it more like a fan or a motor?

Quote

Is there a certain amount of Joules that should be used for my computer set up?

There are two fans. One in the back of the computer and one on the side. Which one is the video card one?

Hi everyone

I already have 3 computers, don't PLAY games but do adobe premiere video editing, no special effects, simple timeine and cut and titles.

I will now start to move around to give some lectures and maybe with video projection, so I'm thinking a lot about connectivity and battery life.

I might do some video editing as well.... so firewire is important but I can get it with a pci card I think.

I've found that DEVOTED video card is better, but expensive.

I've found a second hand Dell 620 with a NVIDIA Quadro NVS 110M for around $500
http://www.portafixe.com/latitude-d620-p-71.html?language=fr

would it be better than a new Lenovo / Dell with a LAPTOP Intel GMA X4500 card

Anew lenovo/Dell with devoted video card is around $1000

Do I need more POWER for my use?
And I'm looking for a widescreen model also


What do you think?
Thanks

GuyThe X4500 is equal to or better than the low-end NVS110M.
I don't do video editing so not sure of the exact requirements, but I'd think you might WANT soemthing with some more grunt.
Problem is, the more powerful a laptop is, the less battery life you'll get, and the less portable it will be.

Hi

Can anyone help, the MOUSEPAD on my acer ASPIRE laptop has SUDDENLY stopped working completely!
I've tried rolling back, which didn't work, and the device is SHOWING as working okay in the mouse settings.
I'm now WONDERING if it isn't a physical problem, anyone have any advice?

Cheers

MinskiSystem Restore.
Reinstall pad drivers.I've tried both these things and neither of them work!
Any other ideas?Not really. Under warranty?

Thx everyone Got it fixed... I pushed the cable REALLY hard and when i did that it WENT in wrong direction ... its work just fine now need to ACTUALLY get computer working!!!The ribbon cable has a KEY on top of it to prevent this...take your time next time around.thank you PATIO

On my hard drive I figure it should have at least 15GB of free space, but the amount on it keeps CHANGING currently it is at 4.04MB. It goes up sometimes, it goes down sometimes. This is on my MAIN hard drive, which is something like 70GB. This happened right after a system restore. It's driving me CRAZY because now almost none of my PROGRAMS work right, and I can reinstall them. I asked a tech guy and he said the paging size is fine, and he had me run AVG in safe mode, which showed nothing wrong. I however don't know what to do now.

I really just want to make everything work again. I asked about formatting it and he said not to until we figure out what it is. Any suggestions what to do next?

I really want to use visual basic :-(Go to run type in chkdsk /rWith 70GB HD, you need at least 10.5GB free.
HD space does shrink. It's normal...temporary files, restore points, etc.
What is the pace, of your free space going down?some times it sits idle for 10 minutes or so and then it will change about 6bytes a second, but sometimes it just jumps 200 or 300MB.You're losing 200-300MB in a matter of minutes??yes. when it first started i lost about 9GB at once. Something fishy here.

Download HijackThis:
http://www.trendsecure.com/portal/en-US/tools/security_tools/hijackthis/download
by clicking on Download HijackThis Installer
Install, and run it.
Post HijackTHis log.here 'tis

[attachment deleted by ADMIN]Nothing there.
Get DriveSpacio: http://www.drivespacio.f-sw.com/download.html
Open it every 15 minutes, or so, and see what changes, and where happened.

Packard Bell desktop running Vista. As I turn on, the Packard Bell splash screen appears as normal but am unable to proceed beyond this point. Inserting either the Packard Bell System Recovery DISK or the Windows installation disk has no effect. Splash screen instructs me to press F8 to access the BIOS (to tell the computer to boot from the CD). Pressing F8 as the splash screen appears has no effect. It is a 250 GB Hard Drive that is relatively new. I am not worried about losing data because I always back up my files and folders on an external drive. I just WANT to be able to reach a position where I can re-install Windows.Quote

Windows installation disk

Splash screen instructs me to press F8 to access the BIOS

im TRYING to install a second hdd from an older computer but i NEED helpExplain more in detail, is it a sata or ide drive & what do you need to know?i got it installedQuote

i got it installed

Hi, as you will notice I'm a NOVICE....

I have just brought 2 x 512 MB ram to add to the 2 i had I.E. 4 x 512MB ram.

I pop-ed them in the slots and all was well. On reading the advice on over clocking i attempted to increase the speed with which the RAM runs at within BIOS.

The problem is having increased the speed the computer now turns on but no image is displayed. I have removed all RAM and the system correctly BEEPS to tell me its all been removed, I've tried to start the computer with just one (tried all FOUR) but still no luck.

As no picture is displayed i cant enter BIOS to reset every thing. I have tried to use the BIOS reset switch on my mother board (Intel D915 GAG) but it appeared to have no affect.

Any suggestions? have i broke the RAM/Mother board/both?

Thanks a lot for your helptry unplugging the system then pull the battery out for a COUPLE hours. see if that will reset the BIOS.

I have an E Machine W3507 it has a Celeron D Processor 2 gigs ram ( upgraded ) ATI Radeon Xpress 200 video. Every thing but the ram is factory.

My husband had it in a questionable position, and it fell and the power box plug-in shattered. When i found out i opened it up to see if any other pieces had fallen off, NOTHING looked unusual on the mother board. I took out the power supply to see what the damage was. It was a goner. So i took a good look at the mother board, it isn't cracked and nothing looks fried. A friend suggested a piece feel off that i didn't notice. I REPLACED the power supply and now the power light and a light on the mother board are the only THINGS that come on. Nothing turns, the fans don't work. Only lights come one.

Could the mother board of cracked and i just cant see the crack?
Could i have gotten bad power supply?
Could something of fallen off the motherboard that would make it not run?you might have cracked the motherboard and cant see it You need to take it to someone with "experience" to thoroughly check out all the connections from your power supply, make sure the ram MODULES are seated properly, the cpu/heatsink, and that everything is grounded correctly..ie motherboard to case.
good luckI would also say that if it fell your HDD probably took some damage and might not be working properly

I have an HP desktop M7680N, it willnot detect my screen nor my usb's. my monitor is good and my usb devices are good too. i have to keep turning it on and off until it suddenly works but as soon as i try to restart it, it does the same thing. can anyone help me with this? thanks!! What happened before the problem? What were you doing? (+downloads/installs/hardware changes/ect....)

What OS is this?

Any error messages?

Any beeps?Do you get any image on the screen at all?
Like the HP screen before windows loads.I have not made any hardware changes and I have not installed any software related to the system management, the only software I have installed in it is VIDEO games. I'm running XP, idon't get any errors and no beeps either. Before the system loads the screen just says "no input signal". I disconnected the screen from the pc and it told me I need to check my video cable. according to other people this means the screen is fine. I connected my other monitor and it did the same thing. so i know that it's not the monitor.
my usb components such as the MOUSE and keyboard are fine. As I said my computer will work fine if I keep pressing the power button on and off. thanks!! I would borrow a PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see if it is the culprit...
Is this an eMachines by chance ? ?no, it is a HP Media CENTER M7680Ni purchased a new power supply and it still does not work. I ASKED my friend for help and he told me that my computer does not get to POST which he told me it means that my computer did not scanned for any hardware. do you think this is a motherboard issue?ive had PROBLEMS similar

I just got a new external HDD last night. This morning I was trying to change permissions so that I was the only person on my computer who could access it. I searched and found that I could use "cacls M: /t /p user:n" in cmd, or some variation of that. I ended up completely cutting off access for everyone and I cant get into it or change it or anything. I'm pretty mad. I kinda want to throw it.

Also it already has about 20GB of stuff I loaded onto it last night, so I really dont want to format or anything, even if I could.I've been screwing with it all day and im sick of it by now. I ended up starting my recovery to see if there were any usable options, and accidently recovered my systems. theres 5 years of pictures, programs, and games i was working on gone. now my main hard drive is screwed up. after the recover i hade 10GB. within half an hour i had less than 1GB. all i want is my *censored* hard drive to work. will anyone please help?try using the command "cacls M: /t /p user:f" that should give you back control of the external drive.

for your system recovery: restore from backup or image. if you don't have that, you could call a company that does HDD recoveries but they're normally expensive or get OnTrack Easy Recovery Pro but it's not cheap.

good luckthanks but when I put that into cmd i get
"No MAPPING between account names and security ID's was DONE."

I think that because I dont have access to it I can not change the permissions.

thanx anyway though. Any other ideas, anyone?

I really wanted to take this with me to my dads tomorrow but i might have to take it to robotics and see if one of the engineers can get it if its not done tonight :-(the drive is attached to your computer, right??

if so, log in with admin privileges and take ownership of the folders. then change permissions through the security tab. don't FORGET to uncheck 'Inherited Permissions'


if it's a networked drive replace 'M' with it's IP address.no its attached. i booted in safe mode like articles I've looked at TOLD me too, and i dont have a simple file sharing option to uncheck, and the drive doesn't show up in my computer so I can't right click it.do you see the drive in the 'Disk Management Console'??You mean in safe mode right? Well yes. But I still can't turn off simple file sharing.ok, so you can see it in the 'Disk Management Console' but not in My Computer, right??

in 'Disk Management Console' does the disk show a drive letter??


have you tried powering down the external drive and plug the usb cable into a different port?? sometime that will force a reinstall of the drive.Whoa whoa...

you changed the permissions on the external drive, and somehow thought running your recovery partition/disc would fix it? and subsequently restored your internal drive to it's original state.



Classic.ok. I got everything. After setting up a network I had to boot into safe mode and now the drive is showing up in my computer. I have changed permissions and hopefully it FITS my needs.

my permissions are to completely deny 2 users here, and allow me, then i have administrators and everyone allowed. this will let only me on it on this computer, and any account on any other computer on it right?

Yeh BC, i might be dumb. lol. I thought in restore it would have some option to restore my external. I didn't see it so I clicked next, unknowing that that would start the restore. Ugh.

Eh oh well. I lost a lot of stuff but I'll get over it.

I've just got a new laptop, running on WINDOWS Vista with Microsoft Word 2007.

My DAD and my sister are currently connected to our WIRELESS printer, a lexmark 3500/4500. However, I seem only to be able to print via the original laptop which the printer was FIRST connected to, so I can only print when the other laptop is on, something that my sister doesn't have to do from her laptop.

Has anyone got any hints for me? I'm REALLY poor at computers, but I've tried all the basics that I can think of.

Would it have anything to do with needing to install software for the printer or maybe because we're on different types of Windows (the original computer being on XP)?

Anyhelp would be really gratefully received...so far Windows has failed to help me in any way!!i'd remove the printer from your computer. then with the printer's laptop OFF, i would add the printer back onto your computer ( 'Control Panel', 'Printers', 'Add A Printer', 'Add Network, Wirless, Bluetooth') . make sure you have the correct name for the printer when you add it.

i am looking to buy more memory for my computer and i am not sure what MHz i should get. also what is the maximum SPEED of RAM i can have without my computer affecting it.

i am using Windows XP These are my specs:


--------[ Motherboard ]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Motherboard Properties:
Motherboard ID
Motherboard Name Dell Dimension 5000

Front Side Bus Properties:
Bus Type Intel NetBurst
Bus Width 64-bit
Real Clock 200 MHz (QDR)
EFFECTIVE Clock 800 MHz
Bandwidth 6400 MB/s

Memory Bus Properties:
Bus Type Dual DDR2 SDRAM
Bus Width 128-bit
Real Clock 200 MHz (DDR)
Effective Clock 400 MHz
Bandwidth 6400 MB/s

Chipset Bus Properties:
Bus Type Intel Direct Media InterfaceStart here

http://www.crucial.com/systemscanner/

This will scan your system and tell you what kind of ram to USE and how much you can useFrom the documentation on Dell's site, it seems you can have a maximum of 4GB of RAM (1GB in each memory slot).
SUPPORTED speeds seem to be 400 or 553MHz DDR2.
Hope this helps.thanks a lot guys really helped me out

Hey! I am going to build a computer soon, and am planning to buy this Saturday. This is my current build:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136153

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136149

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009127

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102770

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145184

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116488

2x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200049

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.156692

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.155166



Total w/ tax and shipping: $1044.50

After Mail in Rebate: $979.50

~Case chose the 690 bcause it had free shipping/combo... If you can find a case/psu that cost less than 115 shipped and +tax and FEEL that I should change it, please say =)

~Everything else, I already have...

~Do you think I can get any good deals?

~For the price, do you agree with my selections (uh... so for 980 dollars, inc monitor/tax/shipping/os... a good price? Or can I get more for less?)

~I just am checking for compatability issues, and am pretty much settled on everything now... As for the fans, any opinion?

~Any advice?
Thanks!http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144007

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103228

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136218

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131361

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130378

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116511

go with same DVD ROM ... doesn't matter to me that much

Very cheap computer!! half of what i paid for mine and this one is like twice better...
Now for a little bit more memory get like a 650 to 750 watt power supply get another 1 of those graphics cards and maybe get some more memory and you'll be set for a few years... Welcome to the FORUMS jamorama, that's a good build you have there.
Could possibly be improved in some WAY, but I wouldn't ARGUE for that price.
kutless' build has vastly worse graphics, a much slower CPU, and a worse case (in my opinion, that is).ooops soory about my mistake ... I should have choosen the one with 512mb or something very sorry .... although get one close to the video car picked ... btw I think the case i picked is very awsome! i've ALWAYS wanted that besides the ABS's The looks of a case are always people's opinion, but the case you picked has 80mm fans - nowhere near as good for cooling and noisier than the CM690's 120mms.Raidmax Smilodon...
Check the prices against your case.

If you are buying Saturday you certainly didn't give us much time for ideas...

A buddy of mine is kicking around the idea of buying a gpu for his pc. He is currently USING the onboard video. I hellped him build this pc a couple years ago and these are his specs I think.

ASUS M2NBP-VM CSM Socket AM2 NVIDIA Quadro NVS 210S Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
SeaSonic S12-330 ATX12V 330W Power Supply
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+(65W) Windsor 2.0GHz 2 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM2 Processor
OCZ Gold 1GB (2 x 512MB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
Western Digital Caviar SE WD800JD 80GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
PHILIPS 16X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 16X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 5X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 24X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2M Cache ATAPI/E-IDE DVD Burner – Retail


He is running Vista also I think. He is going to add 2 gigs of memory also.

My first thought was to make sure he gets a directX10 compatible card. I don't know if that is necessary or not, but as he is using Vista, I thought it would be a good idea. I am sure he will want to keep the cost below $75 for the card.

My next thought was WHY did we use such a small power supply??? It is a good quality ps, but I am not sure if 330 watts is going to cut it.

Any suggestions?

ps: the MB does have a PCI Express x16 slot available.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125253
That seems to be a decent ATI card. Not really an ATI FAN though, so I might be wrong.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121274
There's another.


I forgot he has an Nvidia MoBo.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130410

Not sure if he likes the idea of re-certified, but thats a very good deal if he wants to chance it.Those cards are both pretty good for the price, and not very power-hungry. The 4670 is the better choice, and the best card you can get below $75.
However, I really do think you'd be better with a new PSU too - a dedicated graphics card might be pushing the power output of that Seasonic, and even if it can cut it you'll have little or no headroom.I was wrong. He has a 500w ps. That should leave a little more head room.

What do you think of this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121093Sure. Thats a good one too. I must have missed it. A little cheaper too.

If he's wanting a DirectX10 card, and upgrading the memory too, I cant help but assume he might be gaming. All those cards are good, but they may struggle playing newer, more graphics/processor intense games.Yea, he knows he is limited. He is not a hardcore gamer. If he was, I would have helped him spend some more of his MONEY when we were building it What games/applications does he want to run and at what resolution? That kind of determines the card that would be best.

The cards posted above are all great for the price but it really depends on what applications he wants to be running. Sorry if that info was included, I read the first post but may have missed it.Quote from: hejlik on January 11, 2009, 02:51:06 PM

I was wrong. He has a 500w ps. That should leave a little more head room.

What do you think of this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121093

I just bought a new graphics card Gigabyte GEFORCE 9400 GT 1GB and the card was sh*t, because all games lags. I changed it back to my OLD Gigabyte Geforce 8600 GT 256 MB. But games won't stops LAGGING. Before on my old graphics card everything was fine.

Sorry For My bad EnglishYou'll need to UNINSTALL the drivers, and then install new ones.Never APOLOGISE for bad English...everyone does it from time to time,

My son wants an External hardrive, Can anyone recommend a good one say 250 MB to 500mb or is it GB whatever. I will be shoping at bestbuy,I like seagate but if I can get one that's dependable than another MODEL will be fine. Next question , Do you plug the external hardrive into a usb PORT or Is it more complicated than that. Next question , how do you transfer data from an Internal hardrive to a External hardrive?.Check here...

http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=414&name=External-Hard-Drives

Newegg is a great place to buy from. I've purchased hardware from them for years and don't regret it one bit. I like to check what the customers say about their purchase. It is a good indicator what is good and what isn't.

Alan <>< Quote from: srtony1946 on January 25, 2009, 06:13:57 AM

My son wants an External hardrive, Can anyone recommend a good one say 250 MB to 500mb or is it GB whatever. I will be shoping at bestbuy,I like seagate but if I can get one that's dependable than another model will be fine. Next question , Do you plug the external hardrive into a usb port or Is it more complicated than that. Next question , how do you transfer data from an Internal hardrive to a External hardrive?.

(I wasn't sure whether to put this in my "XP to ME Network" post or not...)

I rebooted my HP machine running Windows Millennium Edition after MESSING with some settings in Network settings and once it started, it detected new hardware but it couldn't find the DRIVERS for it.

What I'm curious to find out is, what driver is required for this device? In "View Devices by Connection" it's under "Dial-Up Adapter" so it could be related to the P2P network. When I click Properties, it shows the following:

== Driver Tab ==

Driver Provider:
Driver Date:
Digital Signer:

No driver files are required or have been loaded for this device. To update the driver riles for this device, click Update Driver.

Anyone know how to find out what the drivers for this device are?

Thanks.What doesn't work on the computer?The driver is gone now and it's stopped APPEARING in the Drivers list. I don't know what happened.All good then?Very.

I just bought an MSI K9N SLI motherboard but when I turn on my computer I receive this error at startup:

CMOS Checksum Bad
******* WARNING Unknown Processor Revision *******
The processor(s) installed in your system are of an unknown revision.
Please contact your BIOS vendor for appropriate updates.
Fatal Error... System Halted.

I have checked on MSI's website and it says that my AMD 5200 processor is compatible with the motherboard.

Code: [Select]Processor: AMD 5200
Motherboard: MSI K9N SLI
GPU: Nvidia 8800gts
PSU: 400w
Hard Drive 1: Hitachi 160gb IDE
Hard Drive 2: Western Digital 320gb SATACan you take the motherboard back and EXCHANGE it?

Alan <>< Quote from: ale52 on January 25, 2009, 09:07:53 AM

Can you take the motherboard back and exchange it?

Alan <><

I have a U.S. Robotics V.92 Int Fax modem. I have a very slow dial-up line. I have tried to get other means (CABLE, telephone, and satellite) of high speed lines but to no avail. So I am stuck with this dial-up line. I have put in an init string for my modem (&k3&m4s10=60s13=0s21=1s32=34s37=13+MS=V90). This seems to work fairly well when my ISP does not pull the plug on my line. I would like to enhance this string to include some type of COMMAND to make my computer let me know when the line has gone dead. Is this possible?

Thanks.....Code: [Select]This seems to work fairly well when my ISP does not pull the plug on my line.
Are you suggesting that your ISP is killing your dial-tone or killing your ability to authenticate with them?

Is your dial-tone really coming and going?

What baud rate are you connecting at...you might have a 56k modem, but it might only be handshaking at half 28.8 or a quarter of that 14.4 if the line is poor old copper?
Rain, wind, weather of any type can affect dial-up. Used it for several years before changing ISPs.Dial-up can be very irritating, especially when DOWNLOADING. Averaged 15 minutes per MB on a good day.Dave:
I am not sure what is happening. I am able to log on but how long I stay connected is a mystery? I can stay connected from a few minutes to over an hour. So far tonight I have had to reconnect 5 times. Yesterday I had to reconnect 4 times. One of the replies to my post suggested that it might be the weather. Yesterday and today the weather has been good and there appears to be no wind. So if it is weather related that theory can be thrown out the window. As to my connect speed I have a command in the init string that tells me at what baud rate that I am connecting at. I connect at from 30 to 32 kbps. Several months ago the ISP was changing out their servers and modems. By some weird chance I was able to connect at 35,000+. This only happened for a few minutes. The speed that I got for downloads was unbelievable. After several minutes of internet bliss my connection was broken. I have never been able to connect at that speed again. I am sure that my ISP has different modems and servers set up to service other customers but my area has been put on the back burner. So my quest is to get as much speed out of this copper line as possible.

Thanks..

Banker64 Travel Here to see if there are Independent Broadband providers for your area...
Some of the smaller ones do not advertise therefore you have to hunt them down.Banker64, As a not too long ago been a 56k modem dial up user(by coincidence with your same modem) I can give you some information. For dial up,in my opinion,you have the best possible modem . The singular item most affecting connectability (staying connected) is noise on the telephone line.When even the BRIEFEST bit of noise occurs a disconnect happens. Many things can cause noise on the line (none of which you can control). Do not be tempted to buy or even add on a "speed booster" software. They do not work. There were times i only got 9kbps other times i got 49kbps (about the max a 56k is capable of).I regret to say that there is very little (if anything) one can do to stabilize the line or increase the speed. I found that the best recourse is to bug (badger) the H--- out of the telephone provider to install DSL in your local area. As a word of encouragement it took my wife and i about 2 years of incessant bugging them until we now have a DSL station less than a 1/2 mile from our home.wish i could offer a better solution.truenorth

This has been happening for long time, even on a new machine.

I've tried to isolate the culprit program but have been unsuccessful. And now suspect its an XP or hardware issue.

xp/Pro, MS optical mouse, ms ergnonmic kbd

during input (type or mouse), often but not a set frequency, the keyboard will freeze and all three leds on the kbd will flash on for something less than a second. Freeze means any keys pressed during the flash are ignored.

Depending on what keys are pressed during/?immedately before the freeze/ the input behavior (about 1 out of every 20 flahses) changes to a strange type of "Shift" select. eg
in WinExplorer if one file name is highlighted, clicking any file name above it is the same as if the shift key was held down during the click.
Likewise, if the up key is pressed 10 times -- the 10 files above the current selection will be highlighted. Press the down key? and the process reverses -- and will then will begun multiple selecting if you continue below the current selection. The selection point can't be changed -- its like a fixed reference point. This selection behavior is identical in any dialogue where selection is allowed (text in a document or notepad window, file names in a zip file, file names in a RAR file etc.) In IE the behavior is ALSO similar: trying to click on a button will highlight all content between the current posn and where you click. Note: right click is essentially disabled -- no context sensitive menu appears at any time in any software (that I've experienced)

Solutions that have occassionally worked: pressing the numlock key quickly 10 or twenty times (worked once). Closing windows one by one( worked a few times). Changing the language input layout of the keyboard (worked a few times, but not recently). Rebooting (always works).
In time it almost always goes AWAY by itself -- this is partially a function of my impatience and how quickly I reboot.

Has anybody seen this before? INET searches are so generic its tough to wade through all them in hopes of finding an answer. Whether you've seen it or not do you have an idea of what's up?

thanks.Does your keyboard CONNECT to a USB port, or the PS/2 keyboard port?
(My guess is that it's a USB keyboard.)Oh, yes. This a usb kbd. Can you enlighten me or otherwise direct me?


If you have these on the back of the machine spend 20 Bucks on a PS2 keyboard/mouse combo...everyone should own one.Other than getting the PS/2 mouse and keyboard, which I also recommend, try unplugging the keyboard from the USB port, and plugging it in again.my guess would be that's pretty much what's happening- perhaps the keyboard is having problems?


do you hear any sound from the computer, such as the hardware add /remove sounds?Quote from: patio on January 31, 2009, 03:34:32 PM

If you have these on the back of the machine spend 20 Bucks on a PS2 keyboard/mouse combo...everyone should own one.

The letter V does not work UNLESS the SHIFT key is held down simultaneously. I have tried ANOTHER keyboard but has the same fault. I have made sure the "sticky Keys" function in the control panel is unchecked.
I am running XP with all up to date windows updates.
Any help welcome! Welcome to the CH forums.

I have the same "problem" but with all alpha keys, I cannot get a CAPITAL letter unless I hold down the Shift key, or hit Caps Lock.

When I hold down Shift and hit the vee key I get V, WITHOUT holding down the Shift key I only get v.

PlEaSe ReAd Me...

how to check what is the max size of external HDD a computer can take ...WHATS the criteria ..is it only on the power supplyUnless you have an older machine you should be able to use just about ANYTHING you want. The only variable may be the transfer speeds. You should LIST what type of external hard drive you are interested in and what the specs on your computer are. well its just a CURIOUS question ...i wanted to know if i have for Ex say an celeron processor ...if i connet an EXt HDD in tera bytes would it work ?


Thanks .Sure.
Why you would need a terrabyte external drive on a Celeron though is a different topic altogether.

HDD's are not limited by a CPU or it's processing power...only by the OS it is running.Will these HDD's only sync data between 2 or more computers using the same operating SYSTEM?

I have threee machines - all running different versions of Win. (starting to feel like a victim.)

ThnxThree different Windows operating systems will be able to exchange files OK, although you must be sure the external drive is formatted with a file system all the computers understand. Win 98SE needs a drive formatted in FAT. Win2000 and later can use FAT or NTFS. I don’t know about Win ME.

If you really intend to synchronize files between computers two good programs are Syncback and Allway Sync. For doing backups there are many free programs to choose from. To simply move files between the computer and the external drive just use Windows Explorer.

Quote from: spacecat9 on January 18, 2009, 08:08:13 PM

CPU is rooted it over heated installing up dates froze you turned off the machine the fan stoped the CPU heated up just a little more with no COOLING and poped. and now wont boot seems obvious.

CPU is rooted it over heated installing up dates froze you turned off the machine the fan stoped the CPU heated up just a little more with no cooling and poped. and now wont boot seems obvious.

Your logic really doesn't make sense.

what you have just done is attempt to hijack someone Else's post.

I've tried F1, F2, F10, Esc, during boot but it keeps loading windows normally. It's an Emachines 667 ix (not the PC in my signature) with intel Celeron processor. Where do I find what BIOS it has? The start-up screen goes by so quick I can't read it.
The boot sequence is:
1 = Intel 8xx video bios
2 = Emacines logo (full screen)
3 = enter password box (BIOS created)
4 = computer information (too quick to read) Try F12 and/or the Delete key.Just bang on all the keys.
Or ,
Power off.
Disconnect the Hard DRIVE cable.
Power on.
It will STROP and ask what you want to do.
Go to the BIOS and MAKE what ever changes you want.
Save, exit and Shut down.
Replace the cable, power on.
Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on January 31, 2009, 09:45:01 PM

Try F12 and/or the Delete key.

Power off.
Disconnect the Hard Drive cable.
Power on.
It will strop and ask what you want to do.
Go to the BIOS and make what ever changes you want.
Save, exit and Shut down.
Replace the cable, power on.

I am having an issue with my computer restarting on the windows loading screen. I have switched to a HD with a known good copy of XP, no difference. Any input?

I have since removed and RESEATED all components, still no change. Hardware specs, AMD Athlon 64x2 4200+, Asus m2n32 sli-deluxe motherboard, PNY Gforce 8500GT video carde, 3GB Corsair memory, 250GB Seagate SATA HD, OEM DVDR/RW. OS is Windows XP and it is a RETAIL copy, CD's and all, though I am unable to locate the actual CD at this very moment.

Update: I have since removed any possible offending RAM and tried a new mainboard, with the same results. Someone please help me, lol.

Also, I have 2 power supplies, a 500w Powerstar and a 450w that came in the case, I have tried both PSU, to no avail.No need to double post...
See your other THREAD for replies.
Topic Closed.

I have been offered a free second-hand PC that was purchased new by an office in 2001 (to have as a spare as I work from home). I currently use an ADSM mobile broadband USB MODEM (Sony Ericsson MD3000) as my area has a landline infrastructure shortage. Am I likely to get OK internet access with this modem on the free computer re. 2001 hardware/software technology? As I don't have a car I'd like to know before I arrange transort if the free computer + modem are likely to work together, or if the computer might need expensive alterations before use. Any clues or tips would be very greatly appreciated. Should be fine hardware wise...
However Drivers are the important thing.
What OS is on the 2nd hand PC ? ?
Does it have USB ports ? ?
Or does the modem have an RJ45 JACK it can use ? ?Many thanks, Patio! I'll ask the OWNER for the information. Re. the jack, I usually plug the modem straight into the USB. It does have a short accompanying cable that can link modem and computer cable, which I occasionally use to change the position of the modem for signal-improvement. The package just calls this a "USB Extension Cable". Not sure is this is the jack you mention.

Hey guys

So what i am wanting to know is...Just how accurate are SMART readings from the hard drive?

A while ago, perhaps 1 month ago, all my drives had at LEAST 98% fitness and performance. However today I ran speedfan and was shocked to see one of them on 61% on the exotics tab!

For those who can tell me what on earth it means, here is an in-depth analysis:
http://www.hddstatus.com/hdrepshowreport.php?ReportCode=3343972&ReportVerification=4AEFECA1

And is it anything to worry about?If i remember right in an earlier POST there was someone having a similar problem and i believe the solution was that the exotics tab was still a beta and might be encountering some problems.Good MEMORY Joe...So i take it i was CORRECT then?
No i just said good memory.....
Kidding...yes it's still in BETA.

Hi All,

Newb to this forum, but I am a fairly EXPERIENCED user. I recently purchased an IDE controller card:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260349371229&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123

Install and set-up of the card was painless. It is recognized as a device in XP. My PROBLEM is that I can't get the drive recognized. I assumed it would be as simple as plugging the drive in to the board and rebooting, but no LUCK. My system is a P4 3GHZ.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.Empty drive or does it have data ? ?
Used drive or new ? ?
If new some drives are shipped un-formatted so it needs to be formatted before Windows will see it.Thanks. It is an existing drive. Unlike a recent new hard drive which is running off the motherboard's controller, which was recognized by XP in disk mgmt (then it had to be formatted), the drive doesn't "appear" ANYWHERE....not in disk mgmt, boot screen etc. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong, just don't KNOW what!Some IDE controller cards also have jumpers on them...did you check the manual ? ?
Also how is the drive jumpered and are you planning to use it to boot from or just for data ? ?
What brand card is this ?
Some of them are junk...

I can't get into a Seagate Barracuda SATA, ST3808110AS drive to reinstall the operating system.

It was a badly corrupted system, a reinstall pretty much seemed to be the answer.

I boot with the XP Pro CD, get to point to start the actual install, it then says can't find any harddisk.

I have no motherboard CD, its an Asus P5RD1-VM. I have been to the ASUS site for the MB, did not find what I'm to be looking for, (I think)

I know I am needing a RAID/SATA driver of some type. I guess I have been lucky a couple times on using SATA drives and did not run into this headache.

I don't know where to get it. I have Googled this to death. I am not quite sure what to do next, besides throw in an IDE drive.

In the system properties it was identified as ULI SATA/RAID M1573

ThanksVery early on in the setup process in XP you will see a prompt at the bottom of the screen stating "Press F6 to install additional drivers"...Press F6 at that point and point it to the RAID/SATA drivers...
They can be found at the ASUS site.
All I could find on Asus's website for this specific MB, was the ULi Chipset driver.

Is this it?

ThanksVery well could be...
If they are not the install won't continue so you would know pretty quickly.
You would think the ASUS site would be laid out better.Asus P5RD1-VM

http://www.fixya.com/support/p500411-asus_p5rd1_vm_motherboardWhere is there a solution on that page ? ?
All the replies i saw said they cannot locate the driver.RE: M2AVM

Sorry, those guys where no help.
A copy of the manual is on compusa.

http://static.compusa.com/pdf/Asus_M2A-VM_Manual.pdf

ASUS has a forum and this model is listed on that forum.
If you can get in.

It is a M2 type and here is the download entry point:

http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

I am not able to get into the site, the server is very slow.
EDIT: just got into it. This looks like it.
http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?model=M2A-VM&os=17&SLanguage=en-us
UGH, hard to make a LINK to it. If you order a Pizza now, they will delivery it before this link responds.
http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&model=P5RD1-VM

This is the proper link for me.

It shows no specific listing for RAID drivers, however I tested this driver before I wiped the SATA drive clean. From system properties I removed the RAID/SATA driver, rebooted (MADE sure they did not show up now in SProperties) then used the ULi Chipset driver link mentioned above ands that's what installed the drivers for RAID/SATA , it then showed back in the system properties.

I don't get how I can get 7.63MB to a floppy. Or will it build them in a succession? Say like boot disc's for Windows or etc?
The ULi driver is under the "Others" link.
ThanksQuote

I don't get how I can get 7.63MB to a flopp

hi there.
am using a normal desktop and my brother is using a laptop, i connected a lexmark printer to my desktop with a usb cable, sometimes my brother want to print some documents from his laptophow can i do that?both machine are connected to modem(mecer)the laptop is connected using a usb cable.Go to CONTROL panel click on printers [ add]salut,The 2 computers will need to be joined by a network. This can be done with an ethernet cable connection. Then you will need to set up a "printer sharing" protocol on the network (DESIGNATING one of the computers as main and the other as slave or client).However given the portability of a laptop it may be more functional for you to simply install the SOFTWARE for the printer on both machines and disconnect/connect as required. It would depend on how often these 2 computers are used for printing and how much of a need (other than printing) they need to share things between each other. truenorthok. am not that good in networking. so the ethernet cable should be a cross over cable, right?what the modem, cos my desktop is connected to the modem using a network cable. can disconnect the internet while am connecting the two computer, cos there is only one network card at the back of the desktop?when you refer to your connection to the internet = are we talking about a DSL ,cable connection or a 56k modem? If your Ethernet card is being used by your internet connection and only one plug in is available then you will need to either install a 2ND ethernet card for the networking or you will need to free up the ethernet by transferring your internet connection to a wireless router setup. The 2ND ethernet card would be less expensive. However i believed that most ethernet cards have 2 accessibility ports. truenorthhi there!
my netwotk card has only one ethernet accessibility and two USBs. I will then try and put a second network card. so tell me do both computer necessarily need to be on the internet while am putting them on a network, for me to add the printer?
thx.mlarrys80. No absolutely not. In fact neither has to be on the internet.Your purpose is to enable 2 computers to use (share) the same printer. No internet connection is required for that. remember when setting up your network to designate one computer (i suggest the desktop) as the main computer (i believe the actual term is "home") then the laptop will be a 'client' computer.You will probably already have your printer connected and functioning with your desktop so you will need to set up a "share printer" CONFIGURATION. If you run into trouble or have questions setting up the printer share let us know.goodluck truenorthThx a lot let me try that. chat to you very soon truenorth.mlarrys80, In case you are not familiar with how to create a "network" here are some tutorials.
1.http://windowshelp.microsoft.com/Windows/en-us/help/e3faee7d-a7cd-40aa-b240-006dca11dc451033.mspx
2. http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/bb727037.aspx
3. http://maximumpcguides.com/windows-vista/share-a-printer/
4. http://www.consideritfixed.com/2007/04/printer_sharing.html
I suggest looking at #4 1st as there seems to be a recognized problem when one of the 2 computers wishing to share a printer is using a "vista"o/s. However a solution is provided in the article.This may or may not occur in your case as i believe the desktop is using a version of XP and the laptop is on vista. Keep us INFORMED as to how it works out. truenorth

guys how do you know if the motherboard is using the ALTRA DMA MODE RIGHT click the IDE/ATAPI controllers in DEVICE Manager and select Properties/Advanced...

Hello All,
I have a USB external HD that XP can't seem to SEE. It is a FAT32 drive. I can see it in the admin tools section and it shows up there with the proper size and description. This is the case when I plug it into any computer I have. I can plug other USB DRIVES and sticks in and it can see them just fine. Any ideas?

Thanks!
have you tried getting the right driver for it?Sounds LIKE we're gonna need more details...Thanks for the reply. Some things I've tried since my last post: I've taken the drive and placed it in a computer as a primary drive. The computer did not start windows and reported a fatal error. It has some kind of Compaq boot sequence jazz trying to start the system. The computer is NOT a Compaq.
I used an emergency boot disk to try to look at the drive. Running scandisk gave no report of errors. I did a surface scan as well. I used FDISK to look at the partition. It shows a partition as NON-DOS. Somehow in all of this I believe the MBR is corrupt because everything shows that data is there, you just can't get to it.
Pardon my rambling, this is what I've tried so far.

Thanks again!We need to know the history of this drive and what machine it may have came out of...
the way it's being reported isn't normal...
P.S. External drives are NORMALLY not bootable without a lot of wrestling so it's not the MBR...Sorry for not being clear, this was originally in a older Compaq computer as the primary drive. It had Windows XP Pro loaded. Somewhere along the way everything went south. It was my Father-in-law's computer. I really don't know what he has done to contribute to this. I'm trying to recover the files in the My Documents folder for him. Everything else is unimportant. Hope this helps .... it has me scratching my head!i kinda having the same problem except its a flash drive. when i plug it in it does nothing and if your luky it will pop up with a message saying this drive has malfunctiond its 4gb worth of memory and it has alot of files on itYou do not need it to boot to Windows to get your data...
The reason it won't boot in another machine is it's looking for the machine it was installed on...this rarely works.

You need to install it as a slave on a working desktop with a burner...I believe I have found the problem. There appears to be damage done to the partition and MBR. I have put the drive through a data recovery program and it is reporting a lot of corrupt data. Only few files are recoverable, UNFORTUNATELY nothing I need. I don't know of anything else I can do here. Any more suggestions?

Thanks!

Hi,
I recently opened my computer to try and fix a vibrating harddrive.
Before opening the computer i removed the electric cable but left the rest connected. When i was done i plugged in the electricity again and TRIED to start the computer.

The cpu fan spinned for one second then died, this is totally normal for my computer when i have had it unplugged. USUALLY i just hit the start button again and the computer BOOTS. This time however nothing HAPPENS. Nothing at all, no fans spin or anything.

I have checked that the start button is correctly connected to the motherboard, and it was. Otherwise i wouldn't probably have got the fan spinning on the first try.

What can be the cause of this?

I have an asus motherboard which indicates if it's getting power by lighting a blue logo. It is blue so it seems like it's getting power.

Help is greatly apriciatedDid you replace the hard drive?no,
I have got recommendations to TEST my psu by shorting the green and one black connector on the 24 pin contact.
The Psu fan did not start nor did the other fans connected to it.
Is the PSU the cause of my dead computer?I am not too experienced with these kind of problems so hopefully someone else will respond as well, but I would suggest testing your PSU and then replacing it if defective.Did you replace the case cover? Sometimes there is a safety switch which will prevent the system from turning on while the case cover is off.

Anyone know of a good site to find a replacement GPU cooling fan/heatsink for a GeForce video card. The fan is bound and the video card was saved before it overheated by the fact that I heard a groaning noise and it was the GPU cooling fan.

Looking on the web I find tons of CPU cooling fans/ heatsinks for all socket types, but cant seem to find anyone selling replacement GPU heatsinks and cooling fans.

This video card although about 5 years old and AGP 8x, it is still good for WoW and some older games and DONT have a need to upgrade just yet on this older computer. My main gaming system has a PCIe GeForce 8500GT with 512MB.

ThanksI tried looking around for you and couldn't find anything recent as far as replacements go.

I checked newegg to see if they still SOLD them, and they do for about $25-30. I also couldn't find a model that had a fan on it when I went through most of the ones on newegg. Not sure if it will help much but can you provide the manufacturer? Sorry if you already did and I missed it.This may not be standard advice, but if the heatsink is fine, you can usually just strap on any old fan and it will be fine.
It may not CONNECT to the power connectors on the card as they're usually 2 pin and sometimes an odd size, but a spare motherboard or PSU connector will do the job (depending on the type of connector on the fan).
The size for an FX5200 heatsink is likely to be 30-60mm (that's a pure guess based on ... instinct, I guess you'd call it ... I don't know what kind of cooling system your card has).

I'm a big fan of improvisation, and whilst it's not the best solution for everyone, it works for me.
Example: My Radeon 8500LE, with a Northbridge heatsink held down with thermal PASTE and a few drops of superglue at the edges, with a 40mm fan hanging on the edge with a screw. Works perfectly. Your mileage may vary.Also if you remove the card and take it to a PC store you may be able to match up an almost identical replacement...spend a little extra for a bearing fan and it will reward you with a longer lifespan.Thanks everyone who posted. I found a small 12VDC Fan on ebay for $3.00 which should do the trick with a male-P connector that I had from somewhere, electrical tape, and superglue to glue it to the TOP of the heat sink....This should work out well.

Hello,

I have a Sony PCV-1112 desktop computer with WINDOWS xp pro

recently the computer started shutting down and when I can finally get it to boot something, it goes into safe mode with the bios screen showing that the "last time the SYSTEM booted there was improper frequency...."

I replaced the battery in the motherboard-nothing changed.

when I go to boot the computer I get a loud beep for about 6 seconds and then it pauses for another 6 seconds and beeps again. this keeps repeating. I cant get back to the bios screen.

What the [emailprotected]$## is going on?

What other info do you need to help me out here??If you are comfortable ENOUGH with opening your computer, leave the power plug IN but SWITCH it off at the wall, this will provide a ground.

Reseat:
RAM
Graphics Card (if applicable)
Any other PCI cards.

If this does not help, try just the bare essentials.

Boot with only one RAM stick, no hard drives and onboard graphics if POSSIBLE.

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on January 31, 2009, 07:40:27 PM

I would reinstall your motherboard drivers.

Go to your laptop manufacturers website and lookup your laptop model in the driver ssection.

GUYS WILL U KINDLY EXPLAIN WATS DISABLE MODE Where did you GET advice that "disable mode" is available.

Perhaps you'd like to disable your Caps Lock?

Disable mode on what?

Disable = turn off
Enable = turn on

Hi Guys,

I have a question regarding memory. I currently have 2x1GB of Corsair PC3500 (DDR438) memory.

This memory is no longer made. I'd like to bump it up to 4GB and the only thing close to compatible is 2x1GB of Corsair PC3200 (DDR400).

The two memories have the same CL and voltage. The only difference is in timing. PC3500 is 2-3-2-6 and the PC3200 is 2-3-3-6.

Is this enough of a difference to matter?

One last ? - can you refer me to a site that determines PSU wattage according to the needs of the PC?

thanks for your time.The answer is that the MHz have to be compatible too. 400 &AMP; 438 MHz sticks will not work together.

Thank you for that answer. Hopefully everyone else will learn from my question.Hey bullwinkle, I'm sure glad you posted your question, answered it yourself, and then THANKED yourself for answering your question. That's sssooooo totally cool. though the BIOS should automatically ADJUST to the slower TIMINGS and MHz speed of the slowest sick
Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 26, 2009, 11:55:17 PM

though the BIOS should automatically adjust to the slower timings and MHz speed of the slowest sick

Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 26, 2009, 11:55:17 PM

though the BIOS should automatically adjust to the slower timings and MHz speed of the slowest sick

I hate slow sick. I always prefer projectile vomit.

I have an ULTRA X3 ULT40073 600 Watt ATX Power Supply

And a Full Size Tower VA8000BWS Thermaltake


I can't findout how to get the PSU into the Tower and when I call the Tower People they can't help me.

Did anyone have this problem befor with these two Items???Have you taken out the old power supply & if so the new 1 will install the same way the old 1 came out.REAR FAN Or TOP FAN?Both the PSU and Tower are new I am building a PC??The power supply fits into the case from the inside & should have a 4 screw hold in.The PSU looks very big but it SAYS ATX so I think I am ok.

They should go in Sideways but this one has a BIG fan on Top and should go in Wide laying down.

I know it sound guffy Look it up on Tigerdirect,com
and you will see what I haveWhen you line up the screw HOLES you have put it in correctlyCan SOMEONE find Documentaion on my Tower like how to put a PSU into it?

I do know how they go I did it befor but this Tower can be reconfigured to take a lot of diferant PSUs.

And I don't think I am doing it right.

The Book that came with it is Very Very Very Vage about how to Put them in.You're not the only one with problems - found these using Google:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16811133154

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/244127-28-thermaltake-armor-va8000bws

Seems LIKELY that any help will have to be hands-on

Good luck