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I had 197 MB of data burned onto a DVD-RW disk. I intentionally deleted the CONTENTS of the disk to start over, but when I open up the disk in "my computer" to view how much space has been used it still says that 197 MB is used, even though I deleted everything off the disk..... Why is this so???



Also, what is the point of using an RW disk if you are going to use a "Master" type of format? Since "mastered" disks can't be erased, wouldn't that be a waste of a good RW disk?

If an "RW" or "R" disk has been formated with "live file system" can files be added using the "mastered" file system, later?What program you used to ERASE the disk? TRY burning something new on the disk and see what happens, you might have just quick deleted, where all the information are marked to be deleted until you have new stuff overwrite the stuff to be erased.I didn't use any program to erase the disk. All I did was right click on the individual files and clicked on "delete". To add stuff all I did was drag and drop.

But now I can't add anything to it....When I insert the disk, all it does is SPIN and spin and spin and it doesn't READ anything off the disk. This is the second RW disk that went bad on me in the last few days.

Incidentally, the RW drive that I'm using doesn't play certain DVD movies, even when they are bran new, not scrached or anything.... I know its partly a faulty drive but I can't figure out if that is why my disks are going bad. I've used the RW drive a few times tonight to burn files to the disk but now the disk doesn't work.Try using a program to delete, maybe it's gonna work. I always deleted completely using nero.

You have partly faulty drive, better get it repaired, get a new one or if there's warranty still on it even better.

So here's what happened. I needed a file from my friend. He took my external HD and put the file I needed on it USING Ubuntu, then after plugging the hard drive back into my Vista computer, about 200GB of files are missing.

The thing is, they are still there though, because out of 250GB, I only have 30GB free.

I know for one thing though, it's not hidden, because it's set to show to hidden files.

So, my question is, where are my files? I only see about 10% of them.

The only weird thing I noticed is that I THINK the drive WENT from drive E to drive G.
Can you see the files on the Ubuntu computer?

Try this.
Copy the following code into Notepad:
Code: [Select]@echo off
cd
attrib
pause
Go to File --> SAVE As --> filename.bat
Press Enter.

Copy filename.bat to the root of the external hard drive and double click it.
A command prompt window should come up with a list of filenames.
Do any of them look familiar?I did a error check on WINDOWS and it fixed it for me. The drive letter is still different though.

now i'm curious as to why that happened...and WHAT happened.All right, as long as you GOT the files back.

It's possible something happened when the hard drive was unplugged, for example maybe it was still being used when it was unplugged, or it was unplugged safely.

Remember, always use Safely Remove Hardware when removing storage devices, especially hard drives.Ah, maybe that was it, but I'm pretty sure it was safely removed though.

Is there a way to change the drive letter to E? or whatever, without messing anything up.Have a look here:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307844

.DONT MAKE CENTS

I have a friend with a Dell Inspiron B130 laptop that's badly in need of a memory swap (he went cheap and ordered the *censored* thing with minimum memory). Needless to say he now regrets his stupidity... My question is simple: I have a pair of 512MB, 200 pin DDR SO-DIMM chipsets in my PC catch-all drawer and need to find out if they're compatible. Some information I've run across tells me that a DDR2 CHIP can't be used in a DDR socket but can it work versa-visa? Logic tells me yes but I would appreciate some feedback. I seem to remember using these chipsets in my Dell E1705 before I went up to 2 GB but I figured it might be the smart thing to do to check it out first. Any information would be helpful. Thanx! It's as easy as searching dell for the SPECS on the laptop

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/category.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&category_id=4325&mfgpid=193364&chassisid=-1

I would SUGGEST 4 gig at $112 for the best results, its the best investment you can make for an upgrade for that laptop.Tell you friend to FOLLOW the below link with hi laptop and let the scanner run. It wil ltell him exactly what kind of ram he can use.

It is likely to reccommend that he use crucial memory but he doesn't have to. The main thing you are looking for is the siz, type, and capacity of memory that can be used on the laptop and this scan will give you that info.

http://www.crucial.com/systemscanner/DDR and DDR2 memory are incompatible.
Buying RAM from the manufacturer usually works out very expensive, I would recommend using the Crucial scanner mroilfield linked to and buying the memory it shows as compatible from somewhere like newegg.com - that way you get memory that will definitely work, at a better price. the brand also isn't important unless you're mixing memory from different manufacturers, in which case it would be better to use all the same brand.
Hope this helps, and welcome to the forums.The manuf. have gotten more aggressive in their pricing lately...aren't BAD economic times wonderful ? ?
The last RAM i purchased was from OCZ and it was as cheap/cheaper than the big box stores about 60 miles away...Thanks to all for your help. I'd hate to do something that doesn't have an "Undo" button... Again, Thanx!

All the sudden I am experiencing a problem with my DVD Writer. When I insert a blank DVD-R disc in the drive it CHANGES the drive name from "DVD-RW Drive" to "CD Drive". I can have the start menu window open when I insert the disc and actually watch it change the hardware name to "CD Drive" after I get the pop=up asking me which program I want to use to open the disc. The drive worked fine the last time I used it a couple weeks ago. Any input is appreciated.What Operating System?

When did this start?

Any recent downloads, installs, hardware changes, ect......?

If you go to Device Manager, are there any Yellow Question or Exclamation Marks?OS is Windows XP Media Center. It started a couple days ago when I was trying to back up a DVD my kids watch. Only thing that I have installed WOULD be updates to superantispyware or itunes. No hardware changes or new installs. I will have to check the device manager tonight when I return home from work.All right. One more question before we need that Device Manager information, what software did you use and was this backup successful (and have you done that before with other DVDs?)The software I am trying to use is imgburn and DVDfab decrypter5. It has worked before, just recently have I had a problem. I updated the driver on that drive after it started happening but with no luck.Step I:Registry Backup

Follow the steps given below to take a backup of registry before editing it:

1. Click Start, Run and type Regedit.

2. Select My Computer folder {the sign beside My computer folder should be plus (+) to take complete registry backup.. }

3. From File menu, click Export...

4. Give a destination file (say Regbackup) and save it on to the Desktop.

Step II: Registry Edit

Follow the below given steps:

1. Click Start, and then click Run.

2. In the Open box, type regedit, and then click OK.

3. Expand the following registry subkey:

Click + beside HKEY_CURRENT_USER

Click + beside Software

Click + beside Microsoft

Click + beside Windows

Click + beside CurrentVersion

Click + beside Explorer

Click + beside CD Burning

Click + beside Drives

4. In the left pane of the Registry Editor window, click the Volume {GUID} folder under Drives, where GUID is a 32-character hexadecimal globally unique identifier.


NOTE: If you have more than one CD-ROM drive in the computer, an additional Volume {GUID} folder is LISTED for each drive.

5. In the right pane of the Registry Editor window, double-click Drive Type.

6. In the Value data box, type 1 or 2, DEPENDING on the drive type, and then click OK.

The drive type should be 1 if it is a CD-R and 2 if it is a CD-RW.

7. Quit Registry Editor.

8 Click Start, and then click My Computer.

9. Under Devices with Removable Storage, right-click the CD-R drive or CD-RW drive, and then click Properties on the shortcut menu that appears.

10. If the Recording tab is displayed, the drive is successfully installed.

However, if the issue persists, PLEASE Run the patch, issue will be solved:

http://www.kellys-korner-xp.com/regs_edits/changedrivelabel.vbs
I will try this tonight and post the results. Thanks.You are welcome Here are my results:

I tried to the registry edit and it did not work.

I then ran http://www.kellys-korner-xp.com/regs_edits/changedrivelabel.vbs ad it took care of the problem.

Thanks for your help!!cgerard, I am glad that we have got this issue resolved. !!!!

Thank you so much for letting us know whether it solved or not..

Ceeyaa

board is ECS 945gct-m2/1333,my cpu is pentium4 3gig and i want to upgrade my RAM from 1gig to 2gig and video card to 1gig, can my processor still able to operate? what's the IDEAL SPEC for my pc??What's your power supply/budget/main use for the PC?
Without that information we can't advise on what will work or what's best for you.

hi there, i am a noobie when it comes to CMOS. Recently whenever i start my computer, the startup screen will display CMOS setting WRONG and TIME not SET CORRECTLY. And i will be prompt to go to setup page to set the timing before starting the Window XP. Why is this so? Can someone help me? Thanks in advance.
It sounds very much as if the CMOS battery is needing replacement.

Hi. I have an intermittent problem. When I START up a Philips ls1100 Desk PC sometimes it will run perfectly other times it says "No video INPUT" and won't go as far as post. Because this MACHINE isn't as standard as some I don't have the components here to test, you see it uses low profile graphics CARDS and a small psu which i don't have in stock. My guess is video card or psu breaking down any comments or suggestions please.

Much appreciated best regards ChrisWithout having any way to make tests you are at a stalemate. From what you have described i am guessing the video card is at fault. Yeah I will have to get some kit. I am strong on the V Card being the offender too. ok thanks for your replyYour welcome

Hey people

Recently i have had some problems with my computer, most noticeably when playing World of warcraft.

What happens is the GAMES with just freeze up then in around 30 seconds everything will be in turbo mode until it CATCHES up.

At first i thought it may be my router so i gave that a reset but it didnt help.

I run Vista 64 bit, 4gig ram, AMD dule core 5000+ and have 250 GB HDD with 40GB free and a gforce 7600gs (512mb) GPU
I used vistas built in monitor and FOUND this kind of picture


I also found that sometimes the page faults/sec were around 800! (Numbers i wouldnt expect with 4g ram) and the network graph would always SHOW high number around the pauses. its like the data just wasnt coming in or getting proccesed

Could anyone give me some insight to waht could be wrong or where i should start testing first?

Thanks

i have a desktop computer with a ASUS p5pe-vm motherboard and i put a 1gig RAM and then i planned to put another RAM with a size of 2 GIG, is it compatible with a DIFFERENT RAM size? thank you..If there's an extra slot on the motherboard, it will be fine.You better buy the same size stick...that BOARD only supports 2G Total...thank you for your TIPS..

When I originally installed my MASTER hard drive I prtitioned it 40% - 60% for drive C and D. The OS is on C as are the program files. Now I am getting messages stating that I have inadequate drive space for new programs on C, while D still has 80% (of original 60% ) available. So I would like to back up and erase the data on drive D and re-partition the master drive to 70% - 30%. Can I do this without having to reformat drive C and re-install my OS and all of the Program Files?

I am running Windows XP SP-3

On a 1.30 gigahertz AMD Athlon XP
64 KILOBYTE primary memory cache
512 kilobyte secondary memory cache

I have two 80 Gbyte hard drives
Master drive partioned 40/60 (as mentioned previously)
Slave PARTITIONED 50/50

Is there a program out there somewhere that would allow me to do this?
Thanks for reading, JIMEasus Partition Manager can probably do this (here).

Backup... backup... backup...

Good luck.

i have done a COUPLE of search,s for my problem here , but cant find an answewr. it changed to JAN 1 2006 12:00 am after every reboot. i have changed the little batery on the motherboard and even GONE in and changed the date in the bios upon setup...still have the problem...ANYONE have any clues as to what to try next?Have you tried everything in the below text?

-->http://www.pcnineoneone.com/text/slowclock.txt

can anyone help figure out if it my ram that is acting up when i turn on my computer it loads for 30 seconds and then it restarts itself over again and again so if anyone can help i would really be thankful i think its the ram but i need some ONE to tell if im right or wrong about this We need more INFORMATION like computer specifications or model so we know what to look at.Please don't IM me.
Have you RECENTLY done anything inside the case like unplug and replug in parts or anything like that, if you did then you might not have GOTTEN EVERYTHING plugged back in right.

I have 2 sticks of 1 GB G-Skill RAM. If i were to add to more sticks of the same SPEED but a different manufacturer would they be compatible with the G-Skill?
They would be 2 sticks of 2 GB Patriot Viper
I would then have a total of 6GB of RAM

I'm also looking for a new MONITOR and need recommendations on a good one for a good price. I'm looking for a 19" LCD(preferably a widescreen) that is a good price and good quality. Needs to be DVI.I, personally, dont like to mix RAM. I have seen people do it though, and their systems ran fine. What O.S. are you running?

I like to use this site to shop for computer parts.
http://www.pricewatch.com/monitors/OS is Windows XP
6 gigs of RAM is a waste. XP will only recognize about 3.5 gigs. Unless you have the 64 bit version. Do you?I don't think so but i don't know where to look to see if it is.Open My Computer look under Help/About Windows...it will show your version and service packs installed.Been running twin ACER wide screen LCDs in pairs - both on main machine also backup. They will take DVI.

Got those from newegg.com - MNTR ACER|LCD 20" 5MS AL2016WBBD R

These were just sub $200 when I got them near a year ago but these days there are a few deals to be had I think on similars.Quote from: ChrisXPPro on November 19, 2008, 08:54:47 PM

Been running twin Acer wide screen LCDs in pairs - both on main machine also backup. They will take DVI.

Got those from newegg.com - MNTR ACER|LCD 20" 5MS AL2016WBBD R

These were just sub $200 when I got them near a year ago but these days there are a few deals to be had I think on similars.

Hello everybody

I have an AMD X2 6000, but I'm not seeing two graphs in the cpu usage TAB. I started to notice a big drop off in performance and I knew it couldn't be viruses, because I know my pc is CLEAN. Could a core have died or gone bad somehow? I have Windows XP Pro and 3 gigs of ram on a Gigabyte GA-MA69GM-S2H mobo. I just don't know what the problem is. I'm really starting to miss the blazing performance. Please help me. Thanks for your help.

Do you have the task manager set to "one graph for all cpus" instead of "one graph per cpu"?

You can find that option under computer history.Yes, it is set at one graph per cpu. My performance is suffering big time and it seems like i'm running on 1 processor. Also, I went under boot.ini to see if i Could boot up with 2 cores, and it shows only 1. What can the problem be?Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...
How is it SHOWING up there ? ?Yes, it shows it as an ACPI multi processor PC. I also checked for processor updates and there are none.NVM, I SOLVED the problem !!!!!! I just needed to set the boot.ini to default. Thank you all for trying to help.Then there's nothing to lose sleep over.
If it is running slower than usual do all your normal housekeeping: disk cleanup; defrag; all MALWARE scans etc.
Check the free space on your drive and double check device manager for any yellow !!'s.
Let us know...The speed is back, it's blazing fast. I haven't had any viruses or spyware for over 2 years, since I first installed Kaspersky antivirus, so I knew malware wasn't the problem.Quote from: retinchet on November 20, 2008, 07:27:42 PM

I went under boot.ini to see if i Could boot up with 2 cores, and it shows only 1. What can the problem be?

hi everyone,

I have a new SATA 250 GB hard disk(seagate maxtor).

there are two options for the speed of hard disk

1. With JUMPER, 1.5 GB/s.

2. without jumper, 3.0 GB/s.

I want to know that If I go for "2" option, will it be safe for my hard disk, or for SAFETY, I have to USE the "1" option?

thanks in advance.If your motherboard supports it, there shouldn't be a problem enabling the faster transfer speed. You PROBABLY won't notice the difference though.It changes the interface speed, not the actual speed of the hard disk.

That is- it changes the maximum speed. But- since most hard drives never reach 1.5gbs anyway- it won't be noticable.

Last spring i purchased a "ASUS Light scribe" burner for my old desktop. The machine had never had any SATA bus driven equipment before but the mother board had a SATA connector and BElarc Advisor states that I have a "VIA SATA RAID Controller" bus adapter on board. So I bought it and I installed it last spring and I THINK that i tested it before shutting down. Then I did shut down and went away for 5 months. Now I am back and fired up my machine and the SATA driven burner is not working . The computer does not recognize that it is even there. If I go to device manager it shows a SATA RAID controller with a yellow flag. If I try to update the driver it says I have the best available. The device manager also shows the existance of my other CD/DVD ROM But not the new burner. Now when I say that I THINK that I tested it, truthfully, I don't remember if I did or not . My memory is quite bad.

The machine is homebuilt with;
Mother Board: MSI MS-7047 1.00
Processor: 1.30 gigahertz AMD Athlon XP
I am running Windows XP with SP-2
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 080011 11/05/2004

I am not quite sure what to try next. Anyone have any ideas??

Thanks for reading this, JIM Make sure that the SATA controller is enabled in the BIOS- the computer's battery might have petered out since you were away, meaning it would go back to the defaults. Most manufacturers disable the SATA controller by default.BC_Progarmmer Thank you for responding. I went into the BIOS and found that the SATA was already enabled. While I was there I did enable something called "on board LAN". Whatever that was. However, it did not cure the problem. I'm sitting here scratching my head. Maybe I will open up the machine and see if the SATA cable is still connected. Or maybe move the connection. I think there were two there. Anyway, thanks again. Let me KNOW if you think of anything else.,,,JIMTo all interested parties;
Well, I didn't fix the problem but I went to the ASUS website and found out that there are many many other buyers of the ASUS DRW-2014L1T DVD R/RW DRIVE units that are having the same problem with minor variations. So, even tho I feel taken, I don;t feel alone. Thank you all for reading and trying to help, JIMJim,
SATA is great for a hard drive, but I don't see the point of having SATA on a CD/DVD burner. SATA is capable of transferring data WAY FASTER than a CD drive runs, either reading or writing.
IDE is more than satisfactory for a DVD burner.

On that mobo, however, you SHOULD be running a SATA hard drive.
All SATA hard drives on the store shelves today are SATA2.....twice as fast as SATA(1).
A retail SATA drive will usually COME with the SATA1 jumper in place on the back of the drive for compatibility with older motherboards.
To use the drive on a SATA2 mobo, the jumper will have to be removed or the mobo won't even see the drive.

Good Luck to you,
The Shadow Thank you, SHADOW; I will remember that next time I buy a hard drive. Also, I wish I had known that about DVD burnere speeds vs SATA spd when I orderes the drive. Should have been able to figure that out meself but?? ? Anyways, Thank you for the response. All be well with you, JIM You didn't really ask it as a question- but the On-board LAN option was an built-in ethernet.

Also: Did Shadows advice allow you to get things working?Jim,
When you're asking for help with a piece of hardware, it's a good idea to give every possible piece of information about that device, like the Make and Model Number, in the original POST.
I see now that you did give the info in a subsequent post.
I looked up the drive but only saw that it was SATA....that's all.

It may not be applicable to a SATA DVD burner, but with SATA hard drives there are two versions....... SATA 1 and SATA 2.

I just ran into a problem with this today, when I tried to install two Maxtor SATA2 drives on my OLD computer with a SATA(1) compatible motherboard.

The motherboard refused to even See the two drives.
I was totally confused, till I noticed the little jumper on the back of the Maxtor drive that I already had installed in the system.

Then I finally remembered, that when a SATA2 drive is connected to a SATA1 mobo, you must have a jumper on the correct two pins on the back of the drive or the mobo will never see it. Naturally, the little jumpers are very tiny, not even half the size of regular motherboard jumpers. But not to WORRY.....last year I picked up a bag of 10 of those little jumpers at a computer show. I installed a jumper on each of the two drives and VOILA, now my old Asrock motherboard sees the drives just fine.

So I'm of course sitting here wondering if SATA DVD burners have jumpers like that.
If it's a SATA2 device and your mobo is only SATA1, that is probably the problem.
I'd research that drive, but you failed to give us the model number.

You need to determine whether the mobo and DVD drive are the same, SATA wise.

Cheers Mate!
The Shadow SHADOW and BC_PROGRAMMER OK I've learned something here. When I get a round tuit I will open up my machine again and check the DVD burner for jumpers or places to put jumpers. Having already paid for it, I would like to use it in order to get things going again. If not, I will re-install the old slooow burner until I buy something else. Like you said, I really don't need SATA speed on the burner data. I will let you know how I make out. I am a little reluctant to open it up. My hands are getting a little shakey and I don't see too well any more, and I get tired really easy, especially when I get frusrtated. Which seems to be often with this machine. I keep messing with it though as I feel it helps keep my brain active. Maybe I am fooling myself. However, I want to thank all of you guys who try to help me out. This forum has been a real blessing. Thanks again and God Bless, JIMJim,
I'd probably be shaky about getting into a PC too, if it were not for the fact that I've been doing this stuff for 28 years and it's just second nature to me.
But, I admit, this SATA1 vs SATA2 thing thru me for a loop, for a few minutes anyway.

I wish you were nearby, so I could go over it with you and see what we together could figure out. The key may even lay in the motherboard Bios and how it deals with SATA devices. I'm confident that you'll get it to WORK, eventually. Don't give up!

Cheers Mate!
The Shadow TO SHADOW and BC_PROGRAMMER Well I am sorry to be so late in responding. I had a pile of other stuff to take care of. I finally got the CD/DVD burner working. I acquired an adapter that would convert a SATA (or IDE) device to USB and it worked perectly so I put it back into my machine, reconnected the cables, unistalled the software and then re-installed it and it worked. I am feeling very stupid about the whole thing but very happy to have it working. Thats again for your concern and all of your help. JIM

P.S. Now I have another problem regarding drive space so I am posting a new thread. Tks agn

If you have a single dual stick will it run as a single stick or will it not BOOT at all??It will run.second question will it work in a ddr slot? Seeing as it is ddr memoryQuote from: squall_01 on November 19, 2008, 10:14:29 AM

second question will it work in a ddr slot? Seeing as it is ddr memory

Hi there!

I have this old PC laying around, been in a box ever since I got my new PC. I decided to plug it in and see if it works and give it to a friend of mine.

When I turn it on it beeps, about 1 second in length, a pause of about the same length, another beep and this continues endlessly.

Nothing happens on the display. It's been a while but pretty sure it runs a Pheonix BIOS, I built it myself and it's DEFINITELY not an Award BIOS. Can't find the meaning of 1 repetitive beep anywhere...

Configuration is as follows:

1 gig AMD CPU
768 megs RAM
ATi 128 meg V-Card
Soundblaster Live S-Card
40 gig Western Digital HD
1 CD-R and 1 DVD ROM

MB is a generic cheap board... this PC was never MEANT to be a powerhouse but it served me well for over 2 years.

The MOTHERBOARD has built in sound and V-Card which were disabled obviously.

Anyone out there KNOW something that can help me out, i'd be really grateful!

Thanks in advance!

Oh and let me know if you need any other info.

Re-seat the RAM and vid card.
Make sure all power is disconnected.thanks, i'll try that right now... be back in a few if it doesnt work. If i dont come back... it's because it worked I guess it workedI Hope So...

The OWNER of this laptop has had and used this wireless card with the same router with no problems til about 2 months ago. on start up the internet will not connect and when it does it disconnects itself a few hours later and reconnects itself hours later as well. any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated. any questions you have just feel free to ask and ill answer what i can How old is the card ? ?
PCMCIA ?

Heat may be an issue here as well...card is about 2 years old far as i know. i believe heat is an issue as wellTo find out if it is the card have someone with a laptop use it for a day or so...
If it does the same thing the card is going South.I had the same issue with the first card I had, which came with my laptop, I bought a new one and it has not bother me since then... "REPLACE the card, is easier and cheaper"Praetorian319,

Work with Patio on sourcing the problem before listening to Wally and buying a new card.

Wally059,

Before suggesting some one run out and BUY new PARTS let some of the experts on here see if they can source the problem and maybe help FIX it. Replacing a part is not always easier or cheaper if the person needing the help doesn't have the time, money or knowledge to do so.patio, ill def try that when i get the chance. thanks.

mroilfield, thanks

Ok so my current GPU is an AGP slot Radeon 9800pro. I got a Radeon HD3650 AGP slot and i cannot get it to work what so ever. The first one i got i sent back because i thought it was DOA but then the 2nd one i got still refuses to work. All i get after installation of the new card is a "no video input" sign streaming across my monitor on boot up. So my question is? if this card will not work what is a card i can get that is better then my current one for under 90$

Rig:

2.4 AMD 3000+ ghz proccesor

1.5GB ram

450Watt PowerSupply

and XP home...? Any ideasWhat MBoard ? ?
There were 2 different voltage VERSIONS of AGP cards....check both your MBoard manual and the new cards manual to SEE,i new i forgot something. Its a KV8 pro MoBogpu i ordered that dosnt work
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131097


MoBo specs
http://techreport.com/articles.x/6812/1

i dont see any thing conflicting?This stood out from the MBoard manual:
Quote

1 AGP 4X/8X (1.5V only)

Have HP Pavilion - the female end of the charging connection on the COMPUTER has loosened or has a SHORT in it; can it be REPLACED at a reasonable price?Find yourself a good local repair shop. If the PEICE needs REPLACING, they will usually do it for under $100.

Is it possible to recover files and PICTURES from a computer? I TRIED using software but it said the files were not ABLE to be recovered.Will system restore recover the files?http://www.raymond.cc/blog/archives/2008/01/24/top-10-free-data-recovery-software/

My Fn key is not working...my laptop is m9700 alienware.
Is there any other key to resolve this problem . i MEAN any other COMBINATION of key or any software which can replace this function.
There is no 'substitute' if that's what you're asking.

How come it's not working? What happened before the problem?

Notes:

* FN key may not work if the OS has been reinstalled, or the driver has become corrupt. To SOLVE this, simply download and install the appropriate drivers from your laptop manufacturer's website.
* Physical keyboard key broken - Replacement laptop KEYBOARDS may be for sale from the manufacturer. If the laptop is still under warranty, they will replace the keyboard for free.Thanks a lot but its dissapointing.
Actually there is no one in pakistan who can replace the keyboard because there is no Alienware representative here.
Now actually the prob is that the F8 key is not working .... although i press Fn&other keys and they are working,
So How do i solve it cuz there is no external keyboard which will help with this thing.You can try some keyboard mapping software, or an On-Screen-Keyboard.

Go to Start --> Run --> Type OSK and press Enter.If it is indeed the keyboard, you might be able to ask Dell for assistance, since they acquired Alienware in 2006. Not sure if Dell has an operations in Pakistan or not.

Hi there, I have a WD600ve from outta my old DELL laptop with XP. I BOUGHT an ADAPTER to usb to retrieve data. It now says i am not an authorized user when i plug it into my NEW Toshiba with Vista. I go thru the steps to get permission. i reopen and the files sometimes open. I cannot open the documents or pictures or music. Is there a way to unlock the whole drive so i can access all of the files off the drive? i am not looking for the programs, only the documents, pictures and of COURSE, the music. Thanks. http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;308421&sd=tech

I have windows vista and i can change the color of my DESKTOP but not the pictures.when I try nothing happins Sup with the poll?

When did this problem START? Have you always had it?

Do the pre-installed DEFAULT BACKGROUNDS work?

Here's the query first (details below if needed).

I'm FINDING that not all 802.11g/n cards are created equal and I NEED a good one. Opinions and/or observations? Thanks in advance!


Quick rundown of the network as it is and what I need to do.

Presently, my network runs from an Apple AIRPORT Extreme (the first extreme, introduced with 802.11g). The base station is about 30-40 feet from my computers and down 1 level. After building my PC a couple years back, I simply had my mac start sharing it's wireless network through ethernet to my PC. Easy to do because the 2 computers are 3 feet from each other.

Worked great, never a problem. But now, my mac is going to change service to a TV room entertainment computer and my PC needs a wireless card of its own. I bought a D-Link WDA-1320 PCI card and installed that, but the signal is ALWAYS around 30-40% strength (compared to the mac's 85-95%) and internet transfers have plummeted from ~400k/sec with the mac to as low as 15k/sec with the D-Link; an unacceptable difference.

So, compared to the Apple Airport card, this D-Link is a waste of silicone, but Apple doesn't make a PC 802.11g card. Thus, I need to find a quality product, but there don't seem to be any comparisons between these cards (such as one would find on TomsHardware.com). I've considered boosting the network with a 7 dBi antenna, but I shouldn't need to, and I'm afraid that I'd be throwing good money after bad in doing so.

Thank you for your time!

A lot has been written about preventing ESD when working inside a computer, but what about just normal use? My unit sits on a plywood platform a few inches off the carpet, and my chair is on a poly/plastic office pad to protect the carpet. I also work off a computer/station desk.
I have NOTICED in the PAST that if I wipe my screen off while working, a static charge develops sometimes, and the system has shut down, not always. Needless to say, I clean the screen when the system is off. But are there any other precautions one could take? I am almost afraid to vacumm in the room for fear of building up static.
Thanks??? There is nothing to fear, as long as you don't open up the PC when its running and stick your fingers or a screwdriver in there. When it is running it's grounded through the plug, so that's safe. when the PC is off and your inside the case you should, at least, wear a ESD wrist, ER, thing. (forgot the exact term). I use one of these and a anti-static mat. Components should be placed in an anti-static bag.

Years (and years) ago, no-body bothered about static so much. But i'm a firm believer in 'if its not broke then don't brake it'. Its worth using ESD wrist bands because they are actually quite cheap and if you compere that with blowing your motherboard then you can see it's worth it.

If your GOING to vacuum you should use a anti-static vacuum cleaner. They are made ESPECIALLY for cleaning PC's. Vacuum cleaners actually create static.Also, computer case is made out of metal, and it works as Faraday cage. Enclosure like this blocks out external static electrical fields.

hi
thanks first to whoever helps me out

i registered to skype and bought a headphone with a MIKE

however the computer also has a pair of EXTERNAL speakers that are HOOKED up the computer

problem

how do i hook up the HEADPHONES to the sound card and still be able to hear from the external speakers

thanks
abeDepending on the sound card it should have both a speaker out port and a headphone port...
What card is it ?it does have a mike port and a INPUT port
however because i have speakers and the headphones
then i can only use one at a time not both

is that right or is there a soluton

thanks
abeIf you have on-board sound, you're stuck. Either this, or that.

I have a laptop;
Manufacturer: ECS
Model: G610

The problem is I used it yesterday afternoon and then shut it down. When I went to turn it on in the evening, it would not come on. I thought maybe the battery was very low, but when I plug in the AC cord, it does not come on. And the charging light doesn't come on. It appears that no power is getting to the laptop, either from the battery or the AC cord.
This same thing happened at the end of the summer, when it was left in a hot car. But it came back on in a couple of days.
I'm wondering what is causing this and what can I do to fix it. Ok. so HEATING a laptop is one of the worst things you can do, (its just like over heating your computer) ide say you need a new laptop (unless you feel like fixing one of the many things it could be *includeing the fact I know very little about the inside of a latop*)

heres some tips you should TAKE.

1) allways have your laptop on a cooling dock. dont have one? NO PROBLEM, what i woud do is take 2 peices of paper and fold them untill the make a thick wedge, put them on opposite corners in the back, bam.

2) do not LEAVE it on when your not useing it, cuaseing more heat.

3) most importantly. dont yank out the power cord. slowly PULL out, YANKING it can caue the inside part to snap, killing your charger

if you have done all 3 of these, then i dont know what it is

GL Just to clarify this, when you plug the charger in, there is no charging light or any life to the computer?

Is it still under warranty?Quote from: yuki953 on November 25, 2008, 07:59:07 AM

1) allways have your laptop on a cooling dock. dont have one? NO PROBLEM, what i woud do is take 2 peices of paper and fold them untill the make a thick wedge, put them on opposite corners in the back, bam.

Quote from: yuki953 on November 25, 2008, 07:59:07 AM

1) allways have your laptop on a cooling dock. dont have one? NO PROBLEM, what i woud do is take 2 peices of paper and fold them untill the make a thick wedge, put them on opposite corners in the back, bam.

paper would be an insulator...

I think he's describing the creation of a makeshift cowling...

Hey there, just bought a computer, a bought it with out an OS so i did a clean install my self. This is all fine and dandy until i install the drivers for my graphics card, the graphics card is the 4850ati 1GB, Once i do this my computer BOOTS up but when it loads it will lose signal and the screen will go strange. Im not sure of what the problem could be, any one have any ideas, the computer is fine until i install the graphics card drivers but OBVIOUSLY with out it looks disgusting. Ive tried installing the drivers from the website and from the CD, it nearly worked once and my screen looked ok, but then it kept losing signal and going on and off.

My pc specs are:

Asus p5q pro
Intel core 2 Duo E8400
ATI 4850 1GB

Think thats all you need to know.

Thanks in advanceIs it possible you can try another monitor?Also, what operating system are you using?
Your power supply would also be helpful.ATI Radeon™ HD 4850 System Requirements
PCI Express® based PC is required with one X16 lane graphics slot available on the motherboard
450 Watt or greater power supply with 75 Watt 6-pin PCI Express® power connector recommended (550 Watt and two 6-pin connectors for ATI CrossFireX™ technology in dual mode)
Certified power supplies are recommended. Refer to http://ati.amd.com/certifiedPSU for a list of Certified PRODUCTS
Minimum 1GB of system memory
Installation software requires CD-ROM drive
DVD playback requires DVD drive
Blu-ray™ playback requires Blu-ray drive
For a complete ATI CrossFireX™ system, a second ATI Radeon™ HD 4850 graphics card, an ATI CrossFireX Ready motherboard and one ATI CrossFireX Bridge Interconnect cable per graphics card (included) are required

also check your drivers are certified for your OS...you just listed the system requirements for your video card...Quote from: BC_Programmer on November 26, 2008, 03:43:01 PM

you just listed the system requirements for your video card...

no I listed them for his video card, then said check your drivers...reason I listed them was for
previous poster who asked about power supply...

so what's your point???

450W?? is that enough for a 4850?

black friday DEALS on NEWEGG- disapointed but anyways

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009154&cm_sp=DailyDeal-_-24-009-154-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824112011&cm_sp=DailyDeal-_-24-112-011-_-Product

the asus has a 20,000:1 contrast ratio and the sceptre has 4000:1 BUT if youll LOOK at the pics on the asus it only has vga! NO DVI!!
will dvi make such a big DIFFERENCE? will the asus look better? how much better? about 4 TIMES?

time for some more upgrades!!
moniter
gpu
psu
hdd
cpu cooler (hsf)

and my budget is $600 a little more if it must be and i am buying the things on black friday if there are any good deals
for my moniter i was thinking a 22" or 24" but 24" are bigger, and look a LOT better
for my gpu i have a xfire board so i most likly wanna go with ati but i dont know if it would be better to get like a gtx 260 core 216 or something like that also this decision depends on the moniter (just thinking ati right now for this calculation) 24" moniter i would have to get 4850 22" moniter i could get a 4870 but idk
for my psu i was thinking a crosair 750 watt for possible later upgrades (like going xfire)
for my hard drive i was thinking something 500gb mabye depends on the deals on black friday
for my hsf i have no idea mabe a tt? or a zalman? i think i need to look at some benchmarks

what do you guys think?I'd get a HD4850, great bang for your buck. Anything better than that will cost a lot more, and IMO the performance isn't justified. If you've got the cash though, you might think differently.
PSU - Corsair's PSUs are good quality, also OCZ, Thermaltake Toughpower, Antec, and PC Power & Cooling spring to mind. See what deals you can get, a 700W should do you fine unless you plan on going way over the top, with, I don't know, 20 HDDs, a massively overclocked quad core, 16GB of RAM, and two 4870X2s in Crossfire. People often hugely overestimate their PSU requirements.
Hard drive - there's a lot of good 500GB drives out there, see what you can find.
Heatsink - what's wrong with your current one? What do you want to gain from a new unit?for the heatsink i just want better temps so i can overclock higher cuase right now my quad is at stock and i would like to get it at leat to 3.2ghz
what do you think about the moniter? 22" or 24"?i found out the bf deals and this monitor will be what i am buying http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824112011

for the hard drive the most likley to be cheapest would be this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136151&Tpk=22-136-151

for the psu i have the choice of a
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341012&Tpk=17-341-012 or a
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005&Tpk=17-139-005
and a raidmax i didnt even bother linking so would the corsair be enough to power like 2 4870s at most?

the gpu deals are disapointing
best deal is a 4850 ill see if i can possibly get a 4870 though if the deals are that good i can get 2 4850s right? lemme check some benchmarks

nothing on the heat sinksSceptre monitors are usually good quality.
I also like that HDD.
If you're going for two 4870s I'd recommend a more pwoerful PSU, something in the region of 800W+ - those cards take a lot of juice.
4850s are good cards though, ESPECIALLY in Crossfire.
What are your temps like with the Freezer? Usually that heatsink is good for Q6600s up to AROUND 3.2, 3.4. Your mileage may vary.right now newegg has preblack friday deal ocz 700 watt i think or pcp and c 750 i would want 1gb card cause the moniter right my temps are in the low 30s but the pushpin broke so hard 2 put onPC Power & Cooling MAKE the best PSUs out there. If you have the money, grab one.
1GB of video memory may well help if you're playing games at 1920x1200 on that monitor.
It's easy to break the pushpins, I broke one of mine and had to RMA it, mine wouldn't clamp down properly.they have tons of thermaltake psus too r they good? would a 750 pc power and cooling power 2 4870s?sorry just got on a comp (psp before)
here are the links to all the deals on psus (non black friday ones cause they have nothing)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703019&cm_sp=DailyDeal-_-17-703-019-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341010&cm_sp=DailyDeal-_-17-341-010-_-Product
and all these thermaltakes
http://promotions.newegg.com/thermaltake/112008/index.html?cm_sp=Homepage_LB-_-thermaltake_112008-_-http%3a%2f%2fpromotions.newegg.com%2fthermaltake%2f112008%2f620x130.jpg
the pc power and cooling looks cheaper then those thermaltakes tooThis looks good to me.
The PC P&C unit is definitely good quality, but you might need more power for two 4870s.
That OCZ won't cut it.i kinda figured that i wont go xfire cause the psus seem like to much but if i can get a good one at a lower price and i can xfire with it ill go with it but someone told me that 850 wouldnt be enough cause of all my pc bling and overclocking my quad850W will be fine as long as it is a quality supply, like that Toughpower.ok ill see what i can aford ya know for a ubr future proof system

I'm looking for better performance, and don't have the time/patience/space to build a new desktop. So instead, I've decided to get a laptop- this way building wouldn't have been an option.

My Toshiba Satellite Pro 440CDX has served me well for over 12 years, So I've decided that will be my first brand choice.

I unfortunately can't buy online for some reason, since none of the good places take paypal and the ones that do require a ZIP code for shipment, which is HARD because I'm in Canada and thus have a differently formatted Postal Code.

In any case- LOCAL stores include Future Shop and Best Buy. I prefer Future Shop, but if I'd get significant savings on the same product from Best Buy, I'd go for it.

a quick search gave me this:


Toshiba 15.4" Satellite Intel Dual-Core T3200 2.0GHz Laptop (L300-04N)

Which looks great, especially compared to my current desktop- But I have a few queries:

I'd like to INSTALL XP. This one doesn't appear to have any drivers from my searches on the net for XP. Are their none available? (not that I hate Vista- I just have programs that WORK much better under XP) (and yes, I'm aware of the 3.5GB limit) I just want it to be possible to install XP...

For that matter- I couldn't find Vista Drivers- If I was to decide to keep Vista, I'd want to use my installation DVD that I got ages ago, (Vista Ultimate)...

The Graphics Chipset- I've been out of the laptop game, but from what I know, Integrated Intel Chipsets were pretty sucky- have they gotten any better? the most demanding game I would install is Half-life 2. How well would this chipset fare?


I'm open to suggestions for other laptops, of course. The only requirement is Wireless-N, which seems to be pretty well the standard now.

my budget can be stretched to about 850$BC didn't they just open up Canada to newegg.com ? ?
That same laptop is $499.00 U.S. which may save you a bit with the exchange rate...

I hate searching Toshiba for drivers but i'll give it a go a bit later...they did, but they don't appear to accept paypal any longer.

Also- Their STOCK seems to be significantly less then the US version- a search for "Toshiba" for example, brings up less them a page of hits. The laptops features seem to be around the $2,000 dollar range which is a bit pricey.


EDIT: it seems they reinstated their acceptance of paypal. I must be doing something wrong though- they have GOT to have more stock then what I'm viewing at newegg.ca...

If I'm able to see more inventory or something- I'd probably scrap the laptop idea and build a new computer- the whole reason I didn't want to originally was because I had no source of components. If Newegg works with paypal and I can get some decent stuff on newegg.ca that can be seen on newegg.com... I'm going to go for it.

Hi,
I think I remember hearing that the GeForce 9800 and the 8800 are more or less the same. Because I have a 9600 in my computer at the moment and to play Crysis you need to have (recommended settings) a 8800 or better.

Anyway is the 8800 more or less the same as the 9800 because the 8800 is at least £50 cheaper than the 9800
ThanksThe 9800, depending on what version, will be a little better than an 8800. But some 8800 are better than 9800 it just depends on what you choose from.CHECK out this website they have good cards for good prices-
http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=48&name=Desktop-Graphics-Video-Cards
The 8800GT and 9800GT are the same card. The 9800GT (well, some of them) use 55nm technology and THUS RUN cooler, performance is the same. Also, the 9800GT supports 3-way SLI, which the 8800GT does not.
Neither is much of an improvement over a 9600GT though.well, I found a deal on Newegg.com that let me get the EVGA 9800 CHEAPER than the EVGA 8800
If that deal is still up, don't hesitate to jump on it!

I'm loving my, 9800 by the way Would it be worth just saving up for the '280'
Quote

The 8800GT and 9800GT are the same card.

Quote

The 8800GT and 9800GT are the same card.

Source ?

Quote from: patio on November 22, 2008, 11:51:16 AM

Quote

The 8800GT and 9800GT are the same card.

Source ?

Don't mock common knowledge. They both use an identical core with identical processing power.
The trinkets the 9800-series comes with does justify the price to some, but it could never justify nVidia's name scheme to me.

try this website

I was under the impression that 8800gt's run on a 65nm core and a 9800 runs on a 55nm core.

Some speculation, but I've heard that elsewhere too, just don't recall where.

I have an HP Pavillion, Intel core 2 duo CPU E4500 @220GHz, Leonite-GL8E motherboard, 2 GHz RAM, running Windows Vista Home Premium. The graphics and sound CARDS were built in to the motherboard.

I just installed an ATI Radeon HD 2400 Pro graphics card.

The Video aspect works great, and I have no problems there. However, SINCE INSTALLING the graphics card, I cannot get the sound working. I have checked the device manager, and both graphics and sound claim they are working just fine. There are no conflicts listed.

Speakers are turned on, and nothing will come out of either the speakers or the headphones (I've tried pluffing them into both the SPEAKER HEADPHONE jack, and the computer headphone jack.)

I have checked the graphics card documentation, and can find no reference to sound issues.

Can anyone tell me what I'm missing?Another thing I just noticed is that in the "sound" tab in Control Panel, The "playback" tab only lists "Digital Output Device (HDMI)" There is no listing for the speakers. I don't know if it is related, but the screenshot I saw at ATI's support site shows speakers under the playback tab.I ended up going into the BIOS and enabling the onboard sound card, and it works fine now.

Thanks for the help.

I have an AMD Phenom CPU and it SAY to USE a CPU Fan with a speed of 4800 RPMs
But I got a Fan that has a speed of 2800 RPMs

And the Fan does have a heat Sink will I be ok or is this not ok to use with the CPU it will go ontop of it?That depends on what size of fan it wants at 4800 RPM. a LARGER fan would move more air- in order to run it at 2800RPM safely, you would need a fan at least a LITTLE less then twice the size of the stock fan.

Tell me what i can add onto, or "fix" up, ive decided to MAKE myself another gameing computer, this one is 3 years old, gettin a little shaddy for crysis

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=9411312

(yes i know, why do i have Office2007, odds are, i may need it some day)1. Bad quality PSU. get a quality unit from someone like OCZ, Antec, PC Power & Cooling, Corsair, etc.
2. Incompatible RAM. That board needs DDR3 RAM, not DDR2.
3. Incompatible HDD. that board has IDE and SATA ports, no SCSI.
4. Very expensive CPU. Think about what you need, do you actually want to pay over $1000 for that?
5. Missing a mouse.yes.... i need the 1 grand CPU, PSU, thnx ill try to fix, Thnx for the ram, didnt see it there. and thnx for the HDD, im making a media center/ gaming rig i need the GHz =)OK, just saying . . . the lower end Core i7 CPUs are roughly 1/2 and 1/4 of the price respectively, and still give extremely high performance.
I think you'd be better saving the MONEY and buying a bigger case, for water cooling, some better water cooling equipment, and a better motherboard.Im not meening this in a bad sence, im just asking, but you think you can make me one?? every little peice, down to the sound card.... (yes, i want a sound card)oh yea, 2 more things,
1) no price limit
2) I LOVE THE COLOR GREEN

just find the stuff and post the URLs, thnx? =)With no price limit it's hard to say what's best.
Do you mean, literally, no limit? As in, $1m wouldn't be out of reach?
Or do you mean no price limit as in, no practical limit, but there is an actual limitation on what you can spend?

Quote from: yuki953 on November 24, 2008, 03:30:00 AM

Im not meening this in a bad sence, im just asking, but you think you can make me one?? every little peice, down to the sound card.... (yes, i want a sound card)

I bought a new computer and I'm not one of those GUYS who keeps up with the technology so don't laugh at me. There are two bays in teh front of the compute and they LOOK like they're for SATA hard drives. I took an old slave hard drive (SATA also) from my other computer and put it in the little frame drawer thingy and tried to put it in but it's not being recognized by Vista. The frame thing snaps in nicely, but it doens't feel like it seats, but how WOULD I know I've never dealt wiht these things before. Can anyone advise?

i really need help with this . i have no sound from my computer from me deleting some programs to free space on my computer . and everytime i go to sound and to try to adjust voloume setting i always get a error message saying WINDOWS cannot find %SystemRoot%/System32?sndvol32.exe . please help me i need sound .

THanks .what is showing in device manager next to sound? If this is a on board sound try loading the driver from the motherboard disc. You can also try a system restore to before pblm. happenedsorry to be so SLOW . but how do u even get to the device manager for sound ??

thanks for replyingwhat OPERATING system ar you using?XP or otheryeah im using WINDOW xpDid you try System Restore? That should work.

To get to device manager click Start then Run and type in devmgmt.msc
and PRESS enter. Do you see any yellow question marks there?

Hi-

I am working on an old computer (AST 812 Advantage) from 1995. It has a 100 MHZ PROCESSOR, 0.85GB HD and (originally) 16 MB RAM. The o/s is W95a. It appears as though the BIOS is the latest version for this pc.

I ordered 32 MB x 4 RAM as the system limit is 128 MB.

The company has provided me with 64 MB x 4 ((IBM FRU P/N 42L0225) (SIMM)) and has told me that this is backwards compatible (they don't have 32 MB), therefore I thought that system properties would show 128 MB total, but it is now only showing 64 MB?!


Please advise.

Many Thanks,

Tim

When I first turn on my desktop it turns on fine. It will run for about 5 min. and then reboot. After it REBOOTS it will come up to the ASUS AI bios screen and hang there. I can hit the reset button and it does the same thing. The only way to power it off is if I cut off the power switch on the power supply. After I cut the switch on the power supply back on the LIGHTS on the fan and the power supply (both have led lights) come on but you can not power on the desktop when you push the power button. You have to wait until the lights go out and then it take about 10 min. before you can power it on. Is this a motherboard or a power supply problem? Thanks,It could be an overheating problem.

Is this a recent problem?

Try putting an external fan next to the computer and see if you can boot it.
Very recent. It started this past week. I'll try the fan idea. Thanks.Download Speedfan and post back with your temps.
http://www.download.com/SpeedFan/3000-2094_4-10067444.htmlUnable to do anything now. I power on the system and it powers itself off after about 5 seconds. After I try and power it on 3 or 4 times, you hold the power button in and it just clicks and the lights flash. Then it will not power on at all for about 5 minutes. See if you can borrow a power supply of equal or greater wattage. Hook it up in your MACHINE and see if it works. If it does not then we can rule that out as the culprit.I got a 550w power supply and hooked it up. Now when I power on the computer it powers itself off after about ten seconds. Check the heat sink & see if it is set properly?[ Re set if no] Also coulb be thermal paste has dried?You say fan [heat sink is running/}I had a similar sort of problem with rebooting and it turned out to be a dodgy MEMORY module!I too had a BAD memory module that caused the same problem. removed on card at a time & found it.....


Was an PIII gateway with 3 SDRAM slots
I have a new Power supply because I tested the other on and it failed. With the new PS it powers off after about ten seconds. I checked the memory and the heat sink - and added thermal paste. Nothing seems to work. I think my CPU is fried.

I have a 32-bit box here, that I built back in 2005, and recently converted to what I'd call a "shell" PC--ie., no fixed HDD inside, whatever HDD I'm running in it just sits in a removable tray. This seems to work well with all the drives I've ever built previously, I've been able to drop in and run everything from DOS 6.22 through Win 3.1, Win 95, Win 98, RH Linux, Win XP Pro, but here's the problem: messing around with an un-built drive I'd like to rebuild, I've discovered that when I try to boot my 2005 hardware from bootable DOS diskettes, I can't get anything earlier than my Win 95 boot disk to be recognized as bootable. Everything from my original DOS 6.22 setup disks on down, until I get to that Win 95 boot disk EITHER I get the "non-system disk" error, or if I happen to have the XP drive in the tray, it seems to ignore that there's anything in the floppy drive at all--floppy is marked as first boot device in the BIOS, but the system just buzzes ahead and runs XP. I'm finding this seriously puzzling, given the disks I've been trying are all ones I've used and had work fine with builds in pre-2005 boxes now long dismantled and gone (except for their HDDs).

Any thoughts as to what I'm missing, or being blindingly ignorant about, here?

I only EVER learn by doing, screwing up, redoing...perhaps you should double-check that the floppy disks are bootable- with an older machine, for example.At this point, don't have an older box handy to do this with. The 1997-vintage Pentium I used to use all these disks with regularly (except for the "real" DOS 6.22 boot disk I created last weekend, following the instructions here on CH) got recycled pretty much down to its hard drives back in 2005, so I'll have to scrounge for anything sufficiently vintage to make a good test. Best I can say right now is that disks tried have worked RELIABLY on previous outings, and been stored securely away from magnets and lightening strikes since last use.

Off to scrounge...Another option, if possible- try a DOS boot disk from bootdisk.com

It could be the fact that a lot of Install diskettes used a format called "DMF" which allowed for 1.72MB of data on a 1.44" floppy. Unfortunately they were extremely unstable as far as holding data, and especially for booting.

So what do do if the bootdisk.com IMAGE boots?

Well- if your lucky, the DOS setup disk simply couldn't boot, and with luck you can read the disk, and thus run setup.

you could also try chkdsk- make sure the WRITE protect tab is ON, as well.

I have 2 computers HOOKED up to a westell Versa Link Model 327w wireless
router the 1st computer is a HP 1200MHz and the other is a Gateway 500MHz
I took the speed test with both computers and they both clock out where there suppose to be but the gateway is slow BRINGING up programs and playing in game sites such as Pogo and Yahoo the DOWNLOAD speed seems to be just fine but its like when you close out of a program or window it choppy and slow. I'm running windows 98se and I reinstalled the gateway because I thought it WOULD run faster but still the same ( I know I have to upgrade soon)
so I was thinking its just because its the size of the computer or do I have to do something with the IP address. Just WONDERING ?
Thanks ande59

Western Digital created some of the first hard drives- (before PCs)- the company changed their name to what it is now in... um, early seventies, 71.

Maxtor was incorporated in 82.

Also- they concentrate more on size as opposed to speed, a SOMEWHAT flawed outlook, on my view.
Not to mention- they were near bankruptcy in 1992, and acquired Quantum.

Also- your argument on maxtor being better then seagate is kind of silly, since Seagate bought out maxtor anyway...

My favourite is WD, but if I had to pay more for a equivalent WD as opposed to another WELL known brand- I wouldn't.Wouldnt have been bought if it did get bank rupt.never said they BECAME bankrupt. said they were NEAR bankruptcy.oh but cause of that it allowed them too manfuacter maxtor drivers that arent maxtor backed.....Quote from: squall_01 on November 21, 2008, 10:18:31 AM

oh but cause of that it allowed them too manfuacter maxtor drivers that arent maxtor backed.....

Its non plug and play monitor, THAT means you load a DRIVER like I told you in chat. If you don't have the disc that came with the monitor then get it from the makers site...support/drivers area.

Since the story of me being NOMINATED for MS MVP I've been receiving calls from strangers to repair their computers. I had one call last week from a FELLOW asking me to set up his BLACKBERRY Tablet to receive the internet. He has fibre-optic hi speed and I tried to connect the tablet with no luck. I took the tablet home and was able to access my wireless network with no problem. At his house, it only wants to connect to Wi-Fi. Does anyone have any ideas what's happening here?Good evening SuperDave and welcome back over to this side

That is great news for you nominated for MS MVP. That is great news and you deserve it.

But on to your question this link my help you http://helpblog.blackberry.com/2011/07/how-to-connect-your-blackberry-playbook-tablet/. But your BBP does his place have a wireless router like the one that version offers to fiber customers?

Or maybe his wireless on the router is not enabled ?

Hope this helps, Mike

PS I wish your the best and that is great news once again. Enjoy Thanks, Hartbeatmr. I've tried all those things with no joy. His wireless is enabled because his laptop is working and I even tried my notebook on his internet. It was so simple to connect at my home but it's not the same type of modem. This tablet has REALLY got me riled up and I'm not a quitter.Hope something here will solve your problem
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-connect-your-blackberry-playbook-to-wifi.html
http://forums.crackberry.com/blackberry-playbook-f222/blackberry-playbook-wont-connect-wifi-729573/
truenorthQuote from: truenorth on September 13, 2012, 05:53:50 PM

Hope something here will solve your problem
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-connect-your-blackberry-playbook-to-wifi.html
http://forums.crackberry.com/blackberry-playbook-f222/blackberry-playbook-wont-connect-wifi-729573/
truenorth

I KEEP getting bluescreen whe i play games on my PC, here is some info:

atikmdag.sys


PAGE_FAULT_IN-NONPAGED_AREA








Technical information:
*** STOP:0x00000050(0xFFFFFFFFD76EE8E4,0X0000000000000000,0XFFFFF88004996404,0X0000000000000002)

*** atikmdag.sys-Adress FFFFF88004996404 BASE AT FFFFF8800480C000,DATESTAMP501344d9Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip DOWNLOADED file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the CONTENT, and paste it into your next replyI know this is an old thread, but whatever maybe it will help someone else. That driver is part of the ATI Video Drivers. Try completely uninstalling your video drivers as well as catalyst control center, then reinstall the newest version.

I don't understand why you always ask people to post Blue Screen View. He already provided enough info on the bluescreen.

I am using a desktop PC running Windows Vista.

I generally store very little information on my internal hard drive and therefore usually use one of several external hard drives. Currently, one of my hard drives is giving me an annoying issue. Whenever I plug it into the USB adaptor, the computer will recognize it and it works correctly. However, if I disconnect it, and then come back later and connect it again, the computer will only recognize the virtual CD and not the actual drive. Meaning, it does not show the drive letter under "My Computer" or disk management. It only shows the virtual CD. I can fix this by completely rebooting my computer, but this is pretty frustrating.

All of my other hard drives work and I can connect and disconnect them FREELY without this problem. This only occurs with one specific external drive.

1> Plug in, works fine, recognizes drive and virtual CD.
2> Unplug, come back and plug back in, only Virtual CD shows.
3> No drive under "My computer" or Disk Management, only the virtual CD (which I don't use).
4> Other external drives do not give me this issue.

Also, this Ext. ED is a black WD portal type. It runs off USB power. My other hard drives are the same type and work fine.

Any help would be appreciated. I will be unavailable to reply for approx. 45-50minutes after posting this, but will GET back soon after.

Thanks.IMHO its not the fault of the external HDD...it's the virtual drive software...

What app is it that created it ?
Check their Docs for troubleshooting issues.

Meanwhile re-boot and get the external fully recognised.
From Disk Management give the external HDD a Volume Label...

Then rite clik it and assign it a drive letter at least 2 letters away from the virtual drive.
Save changes exit and re-boot and you should be good to go...OK, I'll try it and edit this post when I'm finished.

Also, regarding your question, as far as I know, an app did not create the virtual CD. It came pre-loaded on the external drive and offers options such as locking the drive. I've never used it. I looked into removing it but it seemed more trouble than it was worth so I generally just ignore it. If it is the culprit, I might try finding instructions to remove it later.

Rebooting now.~

Edit:
Ok, the External HD already has a volume label is currently 7 letters away from the Virtual CD.


Should I still change the drive letter and reboot again?I'ne heard nothin good about the WD software for external HDD's...
Everything from losing file access to a total data loss...
If it were me and i had ENOUGH free space i'd copy/move the data elsewhere...do a complete format and wipr the drive.Well, that may be true, but I've had this PC and this external HD for several years and the software has never posed a problem other than asking to be run when the drive is PLUGGED in. I'm not sure if the software is related to the problem or if for some reason Windows isn't recognizing when I've disconnected the external HD and therefore doesn't show/recognize/do anything when it is plugged back in. I'll wait to see if there's any more suggestions before buying another HD just in case...