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Until awhile back, I had a network managed by a T-1 Modem and router. I was able to share files on my computer and also my printer with my wife. Then I purchased a Verizon MiFi device that doesn't support file or printer sharing. I thought I would solve the problem by purchasing a WiFi capable printer...ooops! It does not appear that I can enable WiFi and MiFi at the same time, THUS sharing is out. Is there any solution, other than purchasing a USB printer sharing switch and forgetting about file sharing?
MiFi is WiFi, it stands for My WiFi and should allow you to STILL share files and printers as long as the devices are all within the same subnet (which they will be)

Did the previous router have a program that enabled you to share files and FOLDERS like the linksys/cisco routers do? (Network Magic) This may have been the source of your file/print sharing and the Windows one was never used.

Make sure you have enabled file and printer sharing in the Network and Sharing center under advanced sharing settings for 7, or on the main page for VISTA.

If you are still running XP, make sure you have run the Network and sharing wizard.

It is also important that if you have a mix of XP, Vista or 7 machines that all machines be on the same workgroup. This makes sharing and finding each others computer easier. 7 is not so BAD at discovering network devices but XP is terrible and this helps it along.

Also I have found this through a quick Google search.
http://www.evdoinfo.com/content/view/2911/63/
It is a guide to setting up the Verizon MiFI to use file/printer sharing.

Best of luck
Kurtis

Hey guys !
i have a long question which i will divide into smaller parts

whats you budget ?
$300

what games are you planning to play ?
Assassins creed 3 , Dishonoured...& basically every game that supports 3D

I have : Intel Core 2 Quad Q8400 @ 2.66GHZ
2GB RAM Transcend
Local PSU (I will upgrade this one)
Nvidia 9400GT

My first question
560 ti OR 660 OR 660 ti for 3D gaming

I am not going to game at 1080p resolutions...i dont mind lower AA or No AA at all
720P is enough for me

As per my RESEARCH 560ti delivers Average 3D experience at 1080p resolutions like 50-60 FPS

But the 660 and 660 ti is like "sweet spot" for gamers...its definitely much more poweful than
560 ti & can handle 3D well....but my point is at 720P is 560ti or 660 or 660 ti worth

If 560ti can deliver 50 FPS at 1080p do i even need to look at 660
The thing that is holding me back from 660 is its 192 bit memory interface ..does it make a lot of
difference...some say it would be bad for "Anisotropic Filtering" in future titles

Lastly i am going to buy a LG 3D monitor which already comes with 3D Glasses & tridef software
so should i go for nvidia 3d vision kit worth $150 or should i stick with tridef
I haven't tried out 3D gaming yet to assist with that, but I do know that 2GB RAM on a Windows 7 OS for gaming bottlenecks games performance. I'd double your RAM to 4GB. The good thing is that RAM is cheap these days. My wifes computer a Pentium E5400 was running on 2GB RAM and I doubled her to 4GB RAM and games ran better. She is running 64-bit Win 7. If your running 32-bit Win 7 3GB is Max even if motherboard supports 4 or 8GB. Even 3GB would be way better than just 2GB for gaming.Quote from: DaveLembke on October 08, 2012, 06:57:32 AM

I haven't tried out 3D gaming yet to assist with that, but I do know that 2GB RAM on a Windows 7 OS for gaming bottlenecks games performance. I'd double your RAM to 4GB. The good thing is that RAM is cheap these days. My wifes computer a Pentium E5400 was running on 2GB RAM and I doubled her to 4GB RAM and games ran better. She is running 64-bit Win 7. If your running 32-bit Win 7 3GB is Max even if motherboard supports 4 or 8GB. Even 3GB would be way better than just 2GB for gaming.

Wow...
That'll win friends and influence people to assist...

You may want to read you're own Sig line...

Thanks for you suggestion dude but i would have liked if the answer was releated to my query

Get the 660ti.

Finally someone who talks to the point...thanks bc but can you tell me the reason other than just because its new

Of course. I really don't know what the big difference between the two is, however, your query was evidently very urgent, or you would not have ignored the relevant advice that, while skirted your actual question was at least as relevant as a direct answer. Since you seem animate to know which of these to get, and acting on the assumption that because of this urgency you had reached a critical stage, I performed the time-tested strategy of choosing a better option, which consists of singing a short rhyme, and moving between the choices for each Word. For example, I started with "Meeney", and pointed at the 560ti. Then I stated "Miney" and pointed at the 660. I proceeded with this particular rhyme, with each word, I swapped my perspective and pointed at the other option. When the rhyme was done, I found myself looking at the 660, and quickly posted it as my recommendation.

I've found this particular method of choice particularly helpful when faced with a decision to make, and information overload on the two options. When neither choice is clearly better for your particular use case, then it really doesn't matter which one you choose.

Stick to this method and you'll surely find a beautiful wife

Hi folks,

My problem is my heatsink on Toshiba L300 laptop. Several days ago, my computer started to shutdown due to overheating. Changed thermal paste, clean dust, yet same disappointing result. Today I realized that my heatsink does not working as it should be. I run my PC as is apart, and checked that the part right above the processor is SO *censored* HOT, but fan-end of heatsink is ridiculously cool.

So, is it possible to a copper-based heatsink just lost its ability to conduct? If not, is it how heatsink should work? Any SUGGESTIONS are appreciated.

That copper looking thing is a heat pipe. It is not a solid piece of copper. It is hollow inside and should contain a partial vacuum and a coolant. If the pipe develops a tiny crack the gas can leak out and air gets in. The heat pipe is then destroyed. Also the gas can diffuse out over time. You can test it by taking it out and holding it by the CPU end and putting the end with fins in hot water. The CPU end should get warm almost instantly. If it tests OK do not put it back in the laptop before it has completely dried. They are cheap to buy, new and used. It is better to get a new one because a used one may have a DEVELOPING crack or the gas could be low. You should handle it carefully to avoid stressing the pipe.

Thanks for the reply Salmon.

I've already checked heatsink with hot water method, and unfortunately, it is very hard for it to conduct heat from one end to another. And there is no apparent leak or damage on the surface since I've never touched it before (or dropped it in this case). Is there any way to check that gas is all gone? Put in water and waiting doesn't resolve my problem The gas can diffuse through the metal or at the pipe ends where you cannot see. Or through minute CRACKS you cannot see with the naked eye. if it has failed the test you need to get a new one.

Quote

Is there any way to check that gas is all gone?

this piece of *censored*

It all started that I wanted to clean up my PC. So I have open my PC detach the wires and I started to remove the hard disk and disk drive. So I forgot the CORRECT order on how to put the connectors for the PLED,Reset switch, Power Button, Hard Disk Led, but I CONNECTED all the connectors except for the 2x (5V+, D-/D+, GND).

RIGHT now my computer won't boot, but my motherboard does receive power. As in it does show the green led.

So my question is as follow:
Do I need to connected the LATTER connectors somewhere else as well?
Is it possible that my motherboard is not functioning any more? (But I am sure it does since it was working perfectly 5 hours ago before I have open the computer case to clean up my pc)

Things that I have tried:
Reseat the RAM
Reseat the CPU
Checked my PSU
Checked the connectors on the board

Possible things that I think may be causing the problem:
The motherboard itself
The 2 connectors that I do not know where to connect them


Link for layout:
http://downloadmirror.intel.com/18505/eng/DH55TC_ProductGuide01_English.pdf > Page 46

Thank you for helping me out!Found the source problem: Motherboard is not working. This THREAD can now be closed.

Samsung 14" laptop
Gt 640m 1gb
6gb ram
I5 quad core 2.5 ghz
7200rpm hdd

For 949$ NORMALLY it says 999$
I'm at the Microsoft store.

Otherwise was thinking MacBook air refurbished for 829 with 128gb ssd, 4gn ram, 1.6ghz i5 dual core and intel hd3000 which the apple rep said is great for gaming.

Or the MacBook pro for 1019Its been 3 days so guessing you left the mall ...

Do they have a Microsoft Store and Apple Store in the Same Mall?

I like PC's for Gaming, Price, and not being tied to Apples control on compatible hardware/software/royalties. Also when it comes to VIDEO games in mind, I'd be very selective in picking up a laptop that can RUN the games without running too hot. I have cooked 2 laptops gaming. One was my own a Dell with Intel Graphics GPU, the other was the companies and we sent it back warranty replacement not telling Toshiba that I roasted the integrated GPU playing WoW.Yeah mall of AMERICA, both stores across from each other Lolol

So ya think the Samsung is good for the price?

Hello.

You may or may not of heard of an American cable telecommunications company called Time Warner Cable I subscribe is charging a rental fee for its cable modem in the immediate future that previously offered its hardware cable modem to its customers for no charge.

Now, there is a loophole in order to avoid this fee -- buy your own cable modem for the company's Internet service. In addition, there is an exemption to rent the cable modem without paying the fee -- if you use the company's COMBINATION (Internet and digital telephone) rental cable modem ONLY for the company's voice service (digital phone) and use your own purchased one for the company's Internet service. The charge is specified to those customers that use the company's cable modem rental for Internet service only. Therefore, I will be using TWO (2) modems -- the company's cable modem with the phone and Internet integrated for my voice service ONLY and my own purchased simple Internet ONLY cable modem for the Internet Service to avoid the fee. My cable modem is on the company's list of compatible hardware devices for Internet service.

NOTE: You can NOT have a combination (Internet and digital telephone) cable modem OF YOUR OWN to COMPLETELY REPLACE the company's combination Internet and digital phone cable modem to ESSENTIALLY avoid the new fee. Regarding the voice (digital phone) service, the programming I am told for the company's voice service is ONLY available on the company's combination cable modem rental. Commercially available combination cable modem's voice component does NOT have the company's voice service programming encoded internally forcing you TO KEEP the company's combination cable modem for your voice service; but you WILL NEED YOUR OWN basic Internet cable modem for the company's Internet service too to avoid the fee.

Questions: Now this presents hardware setup questions for me. I know I will need a coaxial splitter for my cable line JUST BEFORE EITHER cable modems in order for both modems to interact with the data streams from Time Warner Cable. In terms of proximity of the coaxial splitter to both cable modems, there will be approximately a 3 foot coaxial cable between the coaxial splitter and each cable modem. For your information, MY cable modem for the Internet service portion is a DOC SYS 2.0 and the company's combination cable modem is also a DOC SYS 2.0 if that have any relevance to you answering my questions. My current Internet service from this company has download speed SET to 3.0 Mbps and 1.0 Mbps upload speed.

1. Will I have any broadband width or signal strength loss for my Internet service portion resulting from adding one (1) coaxial splitter inline?

2. The same is said for my digital phone service as well -- will signal strength be lessened by the addition of adding one (1) coaxial splitter inline?

3. I need to know what kind of coaxial splitter is best for this kind of arrangement? There are many different coaxial splitters for different applications with physical characteristics like construction and shielding, plated material (silver or gold), isolation ratings (DB), frequency ranges (MHz and GHz), etc.. NOTE: I need to maintain the best broadband width and signal strength POSSIBLE if there are more than one possible splitter application readily available for this arrangement.

Please reply.

Thank you.
Forum Rules

Topic Closed.

I am now the proud owner of a YETI Microphone. As an aspiring (70 year old) musician, my intended goal is to record some of my time at my piano. The microphone output plugs directly into my computer USB connector, through an 8-foot cable (supplied).

As my computer is a tower type pc, and my piano is a grand style Kawai, located in adjacent rooms, I am faced with the problem of extending the cable length (or buying a laptop). Does anyone have any experience with such a mic, and/or extending the length of a USB cable on a computer accessory DEVICE? Seen people use a powered USB HUB between devices and computers to extend communications. Longest I have seen work was about 25 feet between the computer and the printer.

You COULD give this a TRY by getting a long USB 2.0 cable and place a powered USB hub between the MIC and PC. I think the longest cables are 16 FT for USB 2.0. So you could theoretically go 32FT, but your probably looking at 16FT from PC to HUB, then whatever the distance is for the cord length of your MIC. The USB Powered HUB acts like a signal booster/repeater in this situation. USB is not suppose to exceed 16ft 5 inches for cable length, but you can go longer with a repeater such as Powered USB HUB which is powered off a wall outlet. If too long you can run into latency issues etc with device handshake, so it should work, but there is a small chance you could run into problems.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182057 Here is an example of Powered USB HUBIf it has a 3.5mm audio connection, I would use that instead of the USB. I am sure those are capable of traveling long distances WITHOUT signal degradation. You can also buy very cheap long extension cables for them.

Unusually for me, I am starting a thread. I have noticed consumer SSDs getting quite cheap these days. I am thinking of adding one to a 2 year old Shuttle SN78SH7 small-form-factor PC: AMD Phenom II 3 GHz, maximum RAM installed (4 GB). At the moment it is booting from a 100 GB system partion on a 500 GB Seagate Barracuda ST3500 ROTATING hard drive (7200 rpm, 16 MB cache). I also have an older 250 GB IDE drive installed. The machine only has 2 3.5" bays, but there is plenty of room to stick a 2.5" SDD somewhere.

What I have in mind is to get a 128 GB ssd, possibly an OCZ Octane or a Samsung 830, and clone my current OS partition onto it. I am up-to-speed about the things needed - align partition to 4K boundaries, make sure TRIM is enabled, etc, and I know how to get my Windows partition on to the SSD. I am not asking how to do any of those things. Also I have read about lots of SSD myths and alleged "wisdom" and I am prepared to find my way through all that. What I am asking, however, is do I really need to do this? Lots of people on hardware forums say "This is the one upgrade you have to do" and "the effect is amazing!" etc. The machine is by no means slow - I would quite like apps to open even faster, I suppose, and a faster boot would be nice (it's about 45 seconds to the login screen at present) and I can easily afford the price of the SSD (around $100-$125 in USD) but I am still unsure about whether I am just hankering after spending money on technology just for an excuse to get the Shuttle's case open and play around.

Any thoughts?

ST, I too have been following this relatively new memory storage format and will tell you where i am coming from at the moment. I am not really concerned about the reliability of the devices as i believe they do seem to function well. However my current thought is that the limited gains (generally in the access speed arena) are OFFSET in my mind by the lower capacities currently available (although they seem to be getting higher by the month) and the considerably higher cost than a non SSD hard drive. I intend to hold off for now until i see improvements in both the capacity and the pricing which i feel are continuing to head in that direction. This past week there was an announcement of some form of molecular study breakthrough that opens up the potential for a radical quantum leap in memory storage capacity (both in size and speed) to the point of rendering all current memory methods obsolete. So to say if being at the leading edge of technology (which if i read you right is not your primary motivator) then there will always be the promise of something new on the horizon and one needs to ask what will i gain and is it worth it. For me at the moment the answer in so far as SSD's is no.truenorth I get what you are saying about not needing to be at the leading edge of technology, and when SSDs cost much more per GB I could easily ignore them. It's just that these days the price of an SSD bigger than my Windows partition is something I can afford (It's what my wife spends on a pair of shoes). If it really does make one *censored* of a difference I may go for it.
Sounds to me like you have "talked" yourself into the acquisition. truenorthI think you may be right. If my Shuttle could take 8 GB of RAM I would probably have done that instead. I know I have a weakness for buying tech things that I don't really need - I have a little plastic "hobby box" which contains 128 MB, 256 MB, 512 MB, 1 GB, 2 GB, 4GB (3 of these), 8 GB, 16 and 32 GB pen drives. I bought each one when that size became cheap so now I have 11 pen drives but I only ever use the last one I bought, and it is never full. I'll probably get a 64 GB one in a couple of months. However I know a guy at work who is much worse than me, he is always buying new gizmos for his digital SLR, or his motorcycle, or another TV or whatever. His "I can afford it" threshold is maybe 5 or 10 times mine, and he makes the same salary as me. He does not have a wife to restrain him like I do.

A few words from an old man about history repeating itself. As a retired P. Eng. who spent his life in the Broadcasting industry, I watched the art of analog audio and video tape recording come to be, primarily through the efforts of a company called Ampex. Through the 1950's, 1960's, 1970's and in to the 1980's, from mono to stereo to 8-track to 24-track and on and on. Then things began to change with the advent of digital. Today analog tape recording is history (like my slide rule).

Also today, the "mechanical spinning hard drive" is on the verge of extinction, and in a very short time will follow the tape recorders. The only question is the timing of when you make your move to an SSD. If you wait a year, it's almost certain the next computer you buy will be SSD. I can totally relate to " I have a weakness for buying tech things that I don't really need" as i am constantly having to create storage space for my technology that is never going to come back in fashion.On your "flash drive" collection. I too adopted the same pursuit and have tons of them. However some time back i discovered the WD MY Passport line of external HD and for not that much more (if even) the cost of a 64 gb Flash drive you can get a 250 gb My Passport and it is not that great of a difference in size, Currently the two portable storage devices i use the most are the 250 gb My passport and a Crucial 64gb Voyager Flash drive.
everything else is collecting dust. So far be it for me to be telling you what you can waste (oops spend) your money on. Enjoy your SSD when you get it.truenorthQuote

The machine only has 2 3.5" bays, but there is plenty of room to stick a 2.5" SDD somewhere.

...I decided to go for strictly gaming performance with my SSD in my gaming tower. I copied World of Warcraft ( @ 32GB ) to this 60GB drive and instantly I noticed the difference. The game use to start and I'd have a loading bar for about 15 seconds before I actually got into the virtual world of the game, and this was reduced to 6 seconds. Teleporting in the game from one area (map) to another area (map) use to take about 5 seconds and this was dropped to 2 seconds. In addition to that I was amazed that other features of this game also were bottlenecked by my Seagate 500GB SATA II drive such as lock picking and mounting onto a flying machine etc. These abilities use to lag slightly but I thought it was just the nature of the game until running off SSD and having quicker lock picking and mounting of flying machine etc...

I bought the ASUS UL50VT laptop at the beginning of 2010. At the end of last year, the original BATTERY that came with the laptop had some issues and I bought a new 12-cell battery for my laptop.

Now, my laptop always just cut off whenever my battery has a remaining of roughly 50% JUICE. Since it has only been 10 months since I got this battery, I doubt that it is no longer capable of holding charge. From what I experienced with battery that doesn't hold charge is that the battery indicator will just drop to 0% real fast, unlike mine which just cuts off at ~50%.

I did some research online and I came across some discussions talking about how the ACPI is not reading the battery charge correctly and a calibration has to be done in the BIOS. I tried doing that but realized that my laptop's BIOS doesn't have the battery calibration option in it.

I also came across other discussions which says that calibration can be done by just allowing the battery to drain off while on the BIOS screen. Then followed by a full charge of the laptop. This also did not seem to work (unless I am doing something wrong).

For the moment, I have disabled the ACPI and just checking if my laptop will last longer than 50%. Before disabling the ACPI, the windows battery meter was reading ~7-8 hours and it was at 93%. So if my laptop doesn't just cuts off at ~3-4 hours, then I was thinking that I could conclude that it is indeed the ACPI misreading my battery level.

In the mean time, I was wondering if any of you could help me diagnose this problem and TELL me if it is indeed a dying battery issue or is the ACPI reading my battery level wrongly?

Btw, when I mentioned that my laptop just cuts off, I do not mean that it goes through shut down, sleep or hibernate process. I believe it is the same as disconnecting the ac cable when your laptop is not connected to the battery.*UPDATE*

Before disabling the ACPI, the Windows Battery Meter and BatteryBar shows that I have 7-8 hours of battery usage. Then I disabled the ACPI and left the laptop running. After about 3 hours plus, my laptop just got cut off again. I connected the AC cable and re-enabled the ACPI and my battery was again at roughly half-bar.

If anyone has similar experience and knows what is wrong, do kindly let me know. I would really like to know if its a battery problem or just bad coding in the ACPI (that's what I noticed on several webpages).Sounds to me likt the battery has ONE bad cell.
Have you had it tested ? ?How do I test the battery out?Any local PC shop can do it...usually for Free.

When I PLAY a song on youtube or itunes, the sound suddenly turns off after 10-30 seconds.
When I turn the volume up or down, the sound is working again.

Does anyone know how I can permanently turn on the sound?Does this phenomenon occur on both speakers and headset? What is the make/model of the computer and the OPERATING system? Is this SOMETHING RECENT or has it always been like this? truenorth

I am using Windows 7 64-bit HOME Edition.DLoad and install and run Speccy...THANK you. you're really a GENIUS You're welcome....
And i'm not really...just been doin this for awhile...

I have two sound cards, Realtek High Definition Audio and Intel Display Audio. How do I know which is default for LISTENING to MUSIC and playing games (Realtek sounds better)? I have an Acer 5755G laptop that I use with external speakers. Is there any problem with this? Are there any side-effects when you plug the laptop to a huge 5.1 audio system (which is meant for the tv)? I am looking to BUY NEW speakers, which speaker will be compatible with my laptop?Any modern sound system with amplifier requiring it to be powered off an OUTLET is best. Avoid cheap sound that is powered off USB or direct from sound card.

need to upgrade my gateway dx4822-1 desktop, I have 6gb of ddr2 RAM can go up to 8, e5300 processor and radeon hd 4670 graphics card. I would like to upgrade all 3 but don't know what my system can handle and not sure what is good for the money running windows 7 home premium 64 bitYou say you "need" to upgrade these 3 components of your existing computer. Why? What is it that you don't have that you feel this need will resolve?truenorthcpu and graphics card do not meet the requirements
WoW minimum requirements as of MoP patch is now Pentium D and 1GB Ram if XP and 2GB Ram if Windows 7

You have plenty of power to run it with that system. A video card upgrade would show best performance, while CPU and RAM upgrade are not critical.

I have been able to run it still with a Core 2 Duo 1.8Ghz and a GeForce 7300 Mobile in an old laptop with 1.5GB RAM and Windows XP Pro. My 2nd gaming system is a Core 2 Duo 2.4Ghz which is older than your CPU and I am running on 2GB Ram with Windows 7 32-bit and GeForce 8400GS video card with 256MB VRAM and it runs it with no issues. No lag etc on "good" graphics setting. My main system is a Athlon II X4 620 2.6Ghz with a ATI 5450HD 512MB video card and I can run ultra with 30fps, but I toned it down to high for 50-60fps.

My wife is running Pentium E5400 2.7Ghz CPU and 4GB Ram and 64-bit Windows 7 Home premium with GeForce 9800GT w/1GB VRAM and on ultra settings with 40 fps on 1024x768 resolution. Her build is closest to yours. Try just a newer more powerful video card first. You might be able to SAVE your money vs unnecessary upgrade to CPU & RAM

Hi,
about a year ago, I bought a HP ENVY 17-1080eo laptop through my work.
Ever since I have had huge problems with it being extremely overheated, and turns off because my BIOS detects it reaches 80 or 90 degrees.
It has been repaired 2-3 times, and each time it comes back, without a description of what they have done, but it runs straight ... For MAYBE 1 month.
Ive bought a cooling pad, and MOUSE and keyboard, because it gets too hot for me to having my HANDS on when I play.

Are there some kind souls who believe they have a solution to my problem?If you FEEL comfortable opening your laptop, you can blow out the fans with some compressed air. If that doesn't fix it, you'll need to re-apply the termal paste on your laptop, Google will provide some advice on how to do that.This link may shed some light on your issue. Read down as the HEAT issue becomes mentioned.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-envy-hdx/484905-hp-envy-17-17-3d-1xxx-series-owners-lounge-256.html
truenorth

Hay GUYS since recently I had lag problems in my games.. My specs are..intel core 2 quad 2.5 ghz , amd radeon hd6870 1GB , 4GB ram , asrock g41M-s3 . I am supposee to be playing avery game with full graphics and experience no lag. I reinstalled windows sevral times 2 and I hav net framework 4.5 . Plz help guysWhat games and what version of Windows?

At what point do the games start lagging?

What are your CPU, motherboard, and GPU temperatures like?Like BF 3 , crysis 2 crysis 1 + warheaf. Games with good graphic. I never lagged before , but thee games take long to load and random lag and spikes occur. Thiis is reaaly anoying n I hav windows 7 64 bit. With my specs I shud be able to play any game without lag , I used 2.. But after I reinstalled windows a few times , I think it got worse. After I re install windows , it give a error at fisrt start up " logon process initialaton failed or sumting like that , cud this be the problem maybe ? Temps are fine and stable , never used to lad or get spikes before.. I don't knw what to do. THANX for your positive feedback...abrasive Post removed.

I have a drive of 100mb capacity, of which 82mb is in use, but when I look at it with Windows 7 it tells me the folder is empty. I suspect that some non Windows s/w has used it. I have tried a full format to no avail. What do I need to do to reclaim its full capacity please?WHAT folder is empty?I have no idea, Windows shows no folder. That is the full message Windows gives when I interrogate it. A 100Mg. HDD ? ?Whoops, it ia a SEAGATE Freeagent 500 GB I had to remove it to look at the label. However Window7 says: 86.2 MB free of 99.9MB so the plot thickens! Go to Management and go to DISK Management, then delete all partitions on this drive. When it shows black with no partitions and a number close to 500GB available such as 485GB, create a new partition in this space. This will then prompt to format the space NTFS etc. When completed you should have around 485GB of space available if the size STATED by windows disk management was 485GB.

If this drive is your C: drive ... LEAVE IT ALONE!!! If its a slave or external and no data important. Blow AWAY the partition and start fresh with instructions above to do so.

This 100MB partition may be because this hard drive had say Vista OS on it etc and more info here: http://www.techedze.com/Thread-hide-the-windows-7-100mb-system-partition-in-vista

The only other time I saw something similar other than OS drive is when its an external with drive data security enabled and you dont have the password. The 2nd partition with the information is hidden and you only see the primary partition where the drive data security interface resides. A Western Digital drive did that to me. I set complex password. Didnt use drive for 9 months or so and went to access it and couldnt remember the password I had used. I ended up blowing away all partitions and started fresh without the data security interface to get my 1.5TB back.Many thanks Dave, that has fixed it, now all I have to do is remember it for the next time! Your welcome, and glad that did it.

Big Apple's ? ?Quote from: patio on October 06, 2012, 07:15:50 AM

Big Apple's ? ?

OK first off i have been looking everywhere for help most computer guys havent helped with anything, but ive tinkered so much i figured out my issue,

the orignal problem was to get a dvi connection to hdmi found a cable to do this (returned a couple diffrent ones thinking it was the cable but it's not) i've hook my custom pc up to my 52" tv and the problem has always been it was screen flashing in HD and making weird screeching sounds thro my tv speakers and the 3.5 sound jack surround sound too, so i never COULD get a steady picture via hd .....

i gave up for awhile(using s-video to s-video) then TRIED again and again ..... finally i tinkered with the nvida control panel settings and i found the problem, for some reason my tv connection and the dvi-d cable to hdmi was streaming audio from the pc to the tv and couldn't handle the strain, so in the nvida opitions i "turned off audio" .....


this fixed the problem i spazzed out in prideful joy .... until i restarted the computer and found out even if the audio is shut off when U start the computer back up the plug and play detectors TURN it back on even tho it clearly SAYS off in the nvida controll panel ....

so everytime i restart or turn on my pc i have to deal with a flashing picture until i toggle on anf off the audio off in nvida control panel ... then it works fine all day with a really nice HD screeen all day, currently typing this its working fine ... now the only problem is when i restart my pc i have to deal with the flashing on off screen and screeching till i toggle audio off in nvida control panel ... very frustrating half victory for me lol i was hoping someone had the same problem or someone has a easy fix .... ( some one told me to uninstall the audio driver for nvida .....but there isnt one in pc control panel) this problem has been driving me nutts for over a year now .... all my drivers are updated the cable is alot less then 12ft its only 3 foot ... gold connectors .... ive tryed disabling all audio for my pc it still flashes ... when restarted ... dont know what to do please help !!!


mind you i do the best i can being a poor disabled uneducated man sorry for the poor grammar ! so no1 will touch this with a ten foot pole huh ?

I'm trying to format my USB drive, but every time I try I get the error "This media is write protected" I tried some programs but they all try to "just" format the USB and gives me the same error. I have created and set the StorageDevicePolicies in registry to 0, and tried to delete it with Unlocker. The USB have two partitions, one that acts LIKE a normal USB, and the second that is write-protected and have auto start with some .html files in it. And it's the second partition that I want to remove, I don't care if I have to remove everything from the USB.Quote

have auto start with some .html files in it

Seen this before on promotional drives given out at events. Are you trying to wipe one of these drives clean to use as a personal thumb drive? If so i haven't found a means yet to wipe them to use them as free bee pen drives. I have heard "rumor" that companies that have these mass produced use either a single write flash chip or laser cut an open into the trace for "writing" making them read only.

My father sold our neighbor one of our older laptops about 2 months ago and now he COMPLAINS that the internet is not working. My father hands it to me and says fix it...

Anyways I turn it on to find that internet is the least of their problems. I am first greeted with a window stating that there are important updates by pc optimizer pro. and less than 30 seconds later BSOD hits.

I would like to get them up and running if there is a way I might be able to, but I am not entirely sure how to tackle it.

The laptop in question is a Vista Sp1 that wont update to Sp2. So it has pre existing dilemmas.
Thanks so much for the help if you can provide it.Sounds like somebody installed some crapware. If you can boot into safe mode, download, install, and scan with malwarebytes anti-malware and your anti-virus of choice. If removing everything they find doesn't work, I'd suggest re-installing Windows as it will take less TIME than actually finding the source of the problem.Funny thing is I told them that I suspected crapware (in the least offensive way possible) and the guy tried to tell me its just for his kids homework so it couldn't possibly be that...

Anyways I let him know that the OPTIONS I knew about were, wait until I hear something back online, or a clean install. So he wants to try a clean install. -.- Anyways thanks for the reply.

Also, a bit off topic but, is there anywhere I can learn how to use malwarebytes. I would like to be a little bit more self sufficient when dealing with this sort of problem.Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is DONE, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyI would wipe the drive and use the original Laptop Recovery CD to re-install.

Nice thing is is that it contains all neccessary drivers.Malwarebytes is pretty straight-forward, you just delete everything it suggests! I've never come across a false positive with mbam.

dimension 9200 copy slow from internal drives to USB after upgrading ram from 1gb to 3gb. At first I thought it was the ram that I added so change it and even WENT ahead and install a fresh windows but problem seems not to be solved.What is speed in MB/sec?
When the copy start, the speed is between 6MB/sec to 10MB/sec depending on the usb device then reduces gradually to 3MB if I'm not copying anything. The worse is, at 3MB/sec, the copying is not continues copying, it stops and continue occasionally which makes copying really boring. At a point in time I was advice to use tera copy but I got the same result.What drive is the destination? Flash? Hard drive? Mp3 player? What are you copying - few large files or MANY small files? Is destination drive NEARLY full?

For destination drives I've not tried Mp3 but flash drive and Hard drive, yes. And as for the copying problem it happens to both few large files and small files but when copying between internal drives the copying speed is between 20MB/sec to 50MB/secHave you tried all USB ports on the PC? Speeds are typical for flash drives. Possibly USB controller is faulty.
I use and recommend TeraCopy...Free.

It copy's/moves much faster than ths BUILT in Windows tool.the speed of the usb ports are all the same, both on the front and at back. I wonder why addition of ram has reduce my speed so drastically because at the time I was using 1gb ram the copy was was so fast.when I'm copying to external hard disk the speed is between 13MB/sec to 16MB/sec. Does it still mean that my usb port are not good.What type of hard drive is installed, SATA, IDE/ATA? Did you checked the DMA or PIO mode(if available) in your device manager? The setting should be in DMA or Direct Memory Access. However, some flash drives have lower transfer rate compared to hard drives.My computer only supports SATA. Yesterday when I went home I install fresh windows 7 on my computer and it seems like the transfer rate has decrease again because at first it use to start from 8MB/sec and gradually it drops to 3MB/sec but after setting fresh windows yesterday the transfer rate starts from 3MB/sec. SINCE I upgraded my memory I have set two fresh windows on my computer and all seems to reduce the transfer rate. I will check the DMA.

I'm attempting to get an old HP Pavilion 540n PC running to use for Folding @ Home for our team and I'm having some issues. It BOOTS to Windows XP fine but shuts down after a 'relay clicking' type sound. This happens at different time intervals and seems to not be related to what task the machine is performing. It had a bad IDE optical drive (CD RW) that I replaced with IDE DVD-RW but this had no effect on this issue. I bought a 1Gb PC3200 DDR RAM module to replace the 256Mb DDR module but this didn't help either. I've blown all the tons of dust out of it and re-applied thermal paste to the P4 processor/heat sink. It's was running XP SP1, and I replaced that OS with XP SP3 OEM (which I have correct code and registration for in my name) because Windows update would not update SP1 (support expired). The outputs on the PSU CHECK correct with DVOM, processor temp is within operating range, BIOS settings have been set to default.
What should I check now?
As always, thanks for any help!!!
Mike
You might want to check safemode to check if its a hardware or SOFTWARE issue. If it shutsdown, then its hardware definitely. NEXT would be a HD test, most manufacturers have diagnostic utilities that you could run in DOS mode. PSU would be another factor so try using or swapping of same or greater output. Do you use a video card or just the onboard? The HDD clik of death sounds similar to a relay clik...
DLoad and run the Free diagnostics from the HDD manuf. site.Quote from: lectrocrew on September 30, 2012, 01:18:15 AM

...It had a bad IDE optical drive (CD RW) that I replaced with IDE DVD-RW but this had no effect on this issue...

Customer came up to me with a HP G62-435DX Notebook PC.
Laptop doesnt POST and Caps Lock key blinks on and off in about 1 second interval of ON .... OFF....
Checked and Reseated RAM and that didnt help as well as powering it without RAM installed shows same fault. Removed laptop battery and tested it. Tried to power it without battery installed powered just from wall and still same fault. I cant change error condition so it has to be very low level such as bad bios flash etc. If I got a memory beep code etc, at least I'd be able to know how far its GETTING in the POST.

Only thing that comes to mind since NO POST is that the BIOS may have been flashed by malware or hacker to kill it ( brick it ). I told the customer that it doesnt look good. Looks like the main board has to be replaced and the cost of doing so is beyond what the laptop is worth.

I then suggested that we can place the hard drive into an external enclosure to get access to their data on another computer if they wanted to get their data back.

"This is NOT a critical issue since they said its time they upgrade anyways, but figured I'd throw this one on here to see if others have seen this before and found a cause." HP has fault blink/beep code reference and that wasnt much help. Laptop wasnt abused from the looks of it. PRETTY well kept, and the fan spun so it wasnt a tach fault from a seized fan. Google search suggested cooked CPU, and one person claimed to switch the CPU in laptop and that didnt help! A cooked CPU is rare these days with how well thermally protected they are to shut themselves down before critical temp is reached, and some thermal throttle to remain running and not roast.Looks like a few things can cause this::

See Here...

Most common one ...RAM or BIOS.Thanks Patio... that's the same page I looked at yesterday.

Quote

HP has fault blink/beep code reference and that wasnt much help

Sir,
DELL laptop 5050 loaded with WIN7,
Net telephony is not having incoming SOUND,
It is seen that the IDT audio control panel stopped working,
Description:
Stopped working

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name:APPCRASH
Application Name:IDTNGUI.exe
Application Version:1.0.6341.0
Application Timestamp:4ddf1f8b
Fault Module Name:KERNELBASE.dll
Fault Module Version:6.1.7601.17514
Fault Module Timestamp:4ce7c78c
Exception Code:e0434f4d
Exception Offset:000000000000a49d
OS Version:6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.48
LOCALE ID:1033

Plz help

Travel to the Dell support site...
Enter the Service tag # off the bottom of the laptop...
Enter the OS you are using...

Your drivers will all be listed...(i'd grab them all and burn to CD)...

INSTALL chipset/sound drivers and re-boot,Thank you PATIO. Anytime....
Welcome ABOARD !

I have ALSO TRIED teraCopy but the PROBLEM SEEMS not be SOLVED.

I have a small 9 inch touch screen monitor I use in the car, I sometimes remove it and use it in the house when I'm trying new things. I accidentally plugged my laptop's 19 volt charging cord into it rather than the monitor's 12 volt cord. It turned on for a few seconds then quickly shut off (also put off a weak burning smell). Now the standby light comes on but it won't turn on when I PRESS the POWER button. I'm guessing i blew a diode or a capacitor. I would like to fix it myself. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I should start in order to get this fixed?

Thanks Digital electronic devices are very very complicated, and it is unlikely to be something as simple as one "diode or capacitor". A monitor is likely to have just one or two inegrated CIRCUITS ("chips") and it is quite possible that you have blown them, in which case the thing is effectively dead. The burning smell is a big clue to what probably happened.


Quote from: Salmon Trout on October 03, 2012, 01:24:05 PM

inegrated circuits ("chips")

its cheaper an easier to get a replacement then burning or shocking your self

I have a windows 7 computer with a previous version of windows 7 installed on my hard drive.

Now, Im not sure I went about this correctly, but here is what I did and where I am.

I unplugged my HDD, and plugged my SSD.
I installed windows, and downloaded some drivers for different programs on the SSD.
I plugged the HDD in again

I wanted to run the windows experience tool to see what it said about my computer, and as it turns out my graphics card is not being detected. The fan is running on what seems to be full, but the card is unrecognized in device manager and is labeled as "standard VGA graphics adapter"

I understand a way to fix this is GOING through the BIOS, and I have looked but can not find where to change the settings necessary.

So my questions are : 1. How can I go about GETTING my graphics card detected and
2. What do I do with my previous windows 7 install on the HDD. I am FINE with simply reformatting that drive and erasing everything.

Thank you for reading.To solve this issue it turns out I just had to properly install drivers and reboot a few times. Reformatting the other drive, but it is painfully slow (estimated 6 hours.. dont know why).

i am personally a HUGE fan of windows 7. but in college and all the GIRLS are like "ew your laptop is so ugly, why dont you get a mac?" and they all have macbooks.

I like windows and have a good gaming desktop, but my laptop is a toshiba satellite thats like 2 years old.

can anyone recommend a laptop that looks "sexy" and aesthetic? i am thinking sony vaio or something. want a clean look like a macbook and good build quality. but preferably under 1000.... like maybe 700-800, but cheaper if possible.

thanksYou'll get used to the Apple fanboyz...or in this case girls...

DEEP down inside they secretly want a Windows machine.
So if you want to impress them go against the GRAIN...Quote from: patio on October 04, 2012, 02:13:50 PM

So if you want to impress them go against the grain...

i need a motherboard too so i need some ANSWERS
i have Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3P-B3 in my mind but i am looking for an asus around 100-140 euro
what you suggest?Do you need SLI, SATA III 6Gb/s, and USB 3.0?

In the future I'd create a new post for better response results. Any that show up as fresh with 0 responses are prone to get more attention.i need sata III and usb 3.0 for SURE
but i dont KNOW exactly what sli is
i want a mobo socket 1155 for intel core i5 3570k i need usb 3.0 for my e.disk and sata 6gb/s b/c i will put ssd

Just as the title says, which one would be better in your opinion in terms of best value for money? Purchasing a USB HDD or a fast INTERNAL HDD and use it in a HDD enclosure? This will be used mainly for data backup/restoration purposes so my main concern is the speed and longer lasting product. I'm looking at 500 GB - 2 TB storage depending on what you guys recommend.

ThanksI usually buy the enclosure 1ST and put a little extra $$ into it then searvh for deals on a seperate HDD.Quote from: patio on September 24, 2012, 04:45:47 AM

I usually buy the enclosure 1st and put a little extra $$ into it then searvh for deals on a seperate HDD.

I'll disagree...and maybe put the onus on the passport itself...
I installed an addon card and the external is powered and is a Seagate 500G and i saw dramatic speed differences...

1) So are you saying it's better to choose a drive which has an external power source rather than the USB powered drives? Would this have an effect on it's performance and longevity?

2) Btw which addon card are you guys talking about? Is there any device which can convert a USB 2.0 into a USB 3.0?

3) My laptop also has a FireWire 400 port, would that give me better read/write speeds than USB 2.0 port?

Okay, so.. I have an HP Pavillion dv3. It worked great for the first few months, but then it started to overheat. There's a very annoying whirring sound and I have to have a fan blowing into it to keep it from OVERHEATING.
A while later,it started shutting down on its own, not from overheating. It really pisses me off as it gives no warning so you can't SAVE what you're working on before it crashes. Lately, it can stay on all night, but the second I try to do something, it resets with the "kill power" noise.
The monitor also stopped working as of yesterday, but it STILL works via HDMI cable so that's not a huge deal.
Basically, my question is.. how much would it cost to FIX this?It's likely the CPU fan/heat exchanger is clogged with dust.
Look at the vents on the bottom. It doesn't appear that this laptop is very user serviceable. Whether you try yourself is up to you. Don't know what they charge for diagnosis & repair but it is never cheap.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01629029.pdf

So i have not so old PC. last week all of s sudden it shut down in the middle of me watching movie. And didnt start after at all.
I checked all insides and havent noticed anything suspicious, LIKE POPPED condensers. So i assumed that problem is in power supply unit, cuz pc wont react on pressing power button at all. So i went to the closest store and got myself a new PSU. connected everything as it was and hallelujah everything worked. Until yesterday.
Yesterday i was sitting in front of PC reading book when i noticed strange noises coming out of PC. i looked up and saw little flash inside PSU, and then PC shut down again and doesnt turn back on.
So obviously its PSU problem again. Question:
my last PSU was 450W, it served me for ALMOST 2 years.as replacement for my old PSU i got another 450W(the one died yesterday). during those 2 years i have UPGRADED my video card from geeforce 8800GT to geeforce 550Ti. should i've upped my wattage from PSU as well?
or was i unlucky and got *censored* PSU as replacement?

Thankshttp://images10.newegg.com/BizIntell/tool/psucalc/index.htmlWhat brand were these PSU"s ? ?

It matters...original was - "Delta Power" and new one was "SPEED". i would assume that they are some sort of no name brand cuz they both were just under $50.

yes i saw that calculator this morning. and it suggested me to get 360W PSU. so i guess i should get 400W or 450W but not generic brand.. It never ceases to amaze me that PSU's are almost an afterthought for buyers when it comes to their PC's...and it's one of the most critical components.

I worked on an i7 last week...$350 CPU $225 MBoard $130 SSD HDD...

$38.00 knockoff chinese branded PSU.

My motto: Buy more power than you need...and pay well for it.

End of mini-rant...

Well, we ordered new parts.. I'll get into specifics.
We ordered TWO ASUS M4A88T-V EVO motherboards.
Two FX AMD Processors, 4-Core 4.2 GHZ, 12 MB Total Cache. Socket AM3+
Two 8GB DDR3 -1600 CL9 240 - Pin DIMM Kits.

We've pieced together both of the and NEITHER of them would boot up.. so we assumed the power supplies were too weak for all the new parts. Soo we upgraded to a 700 watt power supply to try out one. Same issue.

The lights come on, fans run, power seems to run through it, on both occasions with the older and newer power supply, but nothing happens with the display.. It's just BLANK and the monitor lights do not react as they NORMALLY do when receiving information during an initial boot.

There is currently no hard drive connected, we'd honestly just like to see bios. We've tried one RAM, no RAM, slot one and slot three RAM, we've tried removing the video card and using the on board connectors for the display.. not a thing.

We feel the chances of having a bad board are slim considering we ordered two of them with the same issue. I hope it's just me doing something wrong.. if anyone has any input, please tell! We ordered our parts from NewEgg.

Also, we've tried numerous monitors.. while they are all the same, they work on our old SYSTEM, which I am using right now to make this topic. That motherboard is AM3, NOT AM3+ which is required for FX CPU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131827&Tpk=ASUS%20M4A88T-V%20EVO


wrong CPU and wrong RAM - or - correct CPU & RAM, BUT wrong motherboard!

Not sure what neweggs policy is for returns of open boxed items that are not defective but incorrect parts.Oh nooo.. That's no good. Darnit..

Thank you for clarifying that, really.

I have an e-machine T6522. At one time the computer from time to time would either not BOOT up at all (BLACK SCREEN), or would display a box that stated that there was no signal, or boot up to the log on screen and it would be real shaky, and not boot up any further. I purchased a new video card and now the computer boots to the log on screen every time and it isn't shaky anymore, but will not boot beyond the log on screen. Does anyone have any suggestions. I sure could use the help!
THANK You!what happens when you try to start in safe mode?truenorthThe computer doesn't or won't go past the log in screen. I HIT F2 or F10 and it does nothing. I would imagine the mother board may have gone bad. I was hoping no, but it is an older computer and a e-machine to boot. LOL! Thatnks for your reply!Just before you throw in the towel (or out the machine ) Usually it is the "F8" that is used to enter safe mode. Not being familiar with the e-machine i did some research on your behalf and found the following link which may assist you.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7599043_start-emachine-safe-mode.html
truenorthTruenorth thank you for your efforts and concern on trying to resolve my issue, but I truly think my problem is mother board involved. I truly appreciate what you have tried to do for me!

My neighbor who is a graphic/video artist came to me yesterday asking about ways to speed up his machine in regards to video editing etc. He has a motherboard that supports 4 SATA drives ( has no hardware RAID ) and 2 are used by OPTICAL and the other 2 drives are 7200 RPM drives 1TB each. He is running a i7 processor and has 16GB Ram with Windows 7 64. He LIKES to multitask and so as he has a project crunching to encode videos etc, while he is working on other things. I checked his system resources out and the CPU and Ram aren't breaking a sweat. But Hard Drive activity is almost constant ( solid HD Activity ). He doesnt want to go with SSD's at this time as for its way too expensive for large capacity SSD's at this time.

One suggestion I had for him was to buy a SATA II controller for a PCI or PCIe slot and run RAID 0 with 2 drives, and use this drive pair for swap space as well as the location to crunch projects from. I was thinking that then his integrated SATA II controller would be used for a single HD for OS. This should keep the crunching on the RAID 0 to hammer out projects faster and keep his system responsive with the single OS / Application hard drive idle.

So questions are:

Is there a benefit to using a PCIe SATA II drive controller card vs PCI? ( Is there a bottleneck to be concerned about if he goes with a PCI vs PCIe card for SATA II communications? ) * His motherboard is pretty bare with no other PCI cards in the 2 slots. In ADDITION to the 2 PCI slots he has a PCIe 1x slot and a PCIe 16x. The 16x slot has a good $200 video card in it.

He was also asking how much faster it would make crunching? I told him that it would be faster, but that I couldn't give him an exact figure. I have heard people state that RAID 0 makes data 2x faster, but I would think that it would be maybe 1.5x faster or maybe 1.9x faster at best. Also I would think that the SATA HD Controller chipset and RAID function performance MIGHT come into play as for a cheapie might be 1.5x performance and a higher end closer to the 1.9x.

Also he was talking about software RAID that he has used before back in the days of Windows 2000 Professional years ago vs adding a card to use Windows to make a RAID set. I told him that I'd go with a controller that is Hardware Based RAID, but he was asking for performance figures between Hardware and Software based RAID and I could only tell him that Hardware RAID was better.

I googled this and came up with lots of oppinions, but no facts. So I decided to post it here.

My suggestion to him would involve buying a SATA II controller that supports RAID 0 and another HD to be used for OS/Application install point as C: . Then take his two 1TB drives and use them as a matched pair for RAID 0 as say D: with optical drives as E: and F: ( Trying to convince him to use a small affordable SSD as the drive C: as for at $100 or less he can have like 90 to 120GB of space which is plenty for OS quick boot, application quick launch, keep swap space then on C: for the SSD speed advantage, and then use the two 1TB drive RAID 0 pair to chug out large projects that are too much for an affordable SSD solution at this time. )

A quick question about printer ink: I recently went into my local refill shop & asked for a refill for my HP 840c deskjet (see national history museum for details). They kindly told me that they have discontinued that particular line of ink due to the age. I'm assuming that different manufactures have inks of varying pigments, and that refilling with different ink will result in off colour images.

My question is, can I TAKE the colour attributes settings from a newer brand of printer, apply them to my antique, and fill the cartridges with the newer ink?


Before anyone suggests it; no I will not buy a new printer on principle.
I LIKE my old printer that doesn't refuse to print a monochrome document because it has run out of blue or refuse to work because the ink is older than 6 months. Would you consider refilling your own cartridges (provided your cartridges are capable)?truenorthI suspect they no longer do it because of pressure from HP...It doesn't hurt to check on Amazon or Ebay to see if any third party retailers sell your ink. Using an ink not branded for your printer is likely to ruin your printer, don't say you weren't warned.Quote from: ninjatex on September 30, 2012, 02:47:36 AM

Using an ink not branded for your printer is likely to ruin your printer, don't say you weren't warned.

Definition of LIKELY
1
: having a high probability of occurring or being true : very probable

I suspect they no longer do it because of pressure from HP...

Would you consider refilling your own cartridges (provided your cartridges are capable)?truenorth

It doesn't hurt to check on Amazon or Ebay to see if any third party retailers sell your ink. Using an ink not branded for your printer is likely to ruin your printer, don't say you weren't warned.

What are some inks more viscus than others (Strictly speaking of ink jet inks that is)? At any rate as mentioned before this is a 12-14 year old printer, it's not like it would be the end of the world if I broke it. It would just mean that I would have to buy a laser jet instead, but that would cost money that I'm to tight to spend.

And I forgot to mention in my original post, the shop were able to offer me a third party alternative but it was still a bit pricey.

Accessless. "I'll have to investigate.". If you are interested i can provide you with a long standing supplier i have used many times and recommended to others. That supplier can tell you if your cartridges are refillable and what your options are (there may be a few). I would say this source is only viable if you are in the U.S. or Canada. If you reply with interest i will P.M. you the information required. truenorth

Inks and toners are very particular products. It's not like you can just take HP ink or toner x and throw it in any other printer, ask any printer technician and they'll confirm this. Sure, every once and a while you can cross models but most of the time this isn't the case. Think of it this way: The printer manufacturers make money off the sale of inks, the devices can print to the accuracy of hundreds of a millimeter at the minimum, you think you can throw just any ink in there? It's not pen ink, it's a very advanced product made under very stringent requirements.

Is there any API available to PERFORM FILE search in Hierarchical file system on BASIS of file contents?

Hello guys!

It has been quite a bit SINCE I was planning on upgrading my PC , and now when my PC says to me that my hard drive is going to die and I need to backup it , for me it's a good time to upgrade my PC.

Have been checking Inet , reading reviews , trying to get into the hardware details ... But I'd rather go with your opinion and tips for that matter .

For what I have is this :
Intel core 2 DUO 3.00 GHZ
4 GB ram (A scan showed an issue with my ram)
Motherboard : X48T-A
Graphic adapter : GTX 560 ti , love it and I don't plan on upgrading it anytime soon.
Case , Had to cut some stuff to insert my GTX 560 there , Yeah it was funny. :>
OS: Win7 64bit.

What I want to upgrade :
GPU
Motherboard
RAM
Hard drive
Case

Now the story starts with me going to the shop with this list:
Intel Core i7 3820 3.6Ghz s2011 10MB L3 Cache , tray
Motherboard : Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4 s1155 Core i3/i5/i7, Intel Z68, DDR3 2133, 2xPCI-E, HDMI
RAM G.Skill 4x4GB DDR3 2133Mhz Ares Quad Channel CL9-11-10
CASE : Sharkoon Tauron White ATX Case
Hard drive : Western Digital Red 1TB 64MB Sata III WD10EFRX

First he said that the motherboard is not compatible with the GPU, second that I don't really need the 2133 and could go with 1333 instead and at the end he put up with this list for me :
Intel Core i7 3770 3.4Ghz s1155 8MB, GPU Core , tray
Motherboard : ASUS P8Z77-V LGA1155 Core i3/i5/i7, Intel Z77, DDR3 , XMP, 3xPCI-E, VGA, HDMI, DVI, DP
RAM: G.Skill 2x8GB DDR3 1333Mhz Ripjaws X Dual Channel CL9-9-9-24
GPU FAN: Arctic freezer 13 Pro
Hard dirve : same
Case : same

Now I know he is a salesman , I don't trust salesmen ... I'd rather go with a pro advice before I rush with my wallet .

My budget is around the $1,000 +/- , I tend to work with 3Dsmax , Adobe after effects / Premiere , Photoshop and play tons of games :>

I will really appreciate your help guys! thanks in advance.The line about the GPU "video card" not being compatible sounds like something I'd hear from a Best Buy sales clerk ( hopefully I am not offending anyone here with that statement, but the Best Buy in my area is full of high school aged kids with no real education on computer hardware ) and they Prey on USERS while POWER USERS ( listen and ignore most of what they have to say ) and SYSTEM ADMIN's ( like myself have to shew them away from them wasting my time, or send them off on the search for something that doesnt exist like ink cartridges for a Sunbeam 2000XTR printer.) * Have been tempted to tell them that I need a 1 D 10 T cable and see if they GET IT or not.

All the hardware you listed would work, all hardware he listed would work as well. Depends on what you want to sink into the hardware. I'd pick a CPU and look at benchmark results among other CPUs and pick out whichever one fits your needs and wallet best.

Personally I'd avoid a computer shop and buy direct online to cut out the margin they will charge you. But if you are going to have someone build this for you, you are then stuck with paying the margin & labor and stand your ground with the fact that its a PCIe Video Card that WILL work in that motherboard!Alright , thanks man.

So far I'm closing on this list:

Intel Core i7 3770 3.4Ghz s1155 8MB, GPU Core, Tray

Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4 s1155 Core i3/i5/i7, Intel Z68, DDR3 2133, 2xPCI-E, HDMI

G.Skill 4x4GB DDR3 2133Mhz Ares Quad Channel CL9-11-10

Western Digital Red 1TB 64MB Sata III WD10EFRX

TP-Link TG-3468 Gigabit 10/100/1000Mbps PCI Express Network Adapter ( I need extra slot and the motherboard got only 1 :> )

Arctic Freezer 13 Pro

Sharkoon Tauron White ATX Case


What do you think ? Any heat problems or bad combination ?

Thanks in advance. :>

Edit: Do I need any special PSU ? or 700 one is enough?

Hi,

Can a LAPTOP short-circuit a battery or MAKE it malfunction in any way?

SORRY for my bad english.

- CenazI wouldn't think so ...unless an improper A/C charging/power pack was USED...
In that case...yes.

I have a Systemax SYX Venture VXC2 Tower PC, two YEARS old, with
Intel Core 2 Duo E7500
Asus P5KPL-CM mATX Motherboard
4GB DDR2 800MHz PC6400 Memory
Windows 7 Pro 64-bit

Since my previous question was answered so successfully, I thought I would try one more. My PC (above) came with the spec for DDR2 memory of 4GB, but FITTED for 3GB (one 2GB card and one 1GB card). I purchased another 2GB card with similar capabilities (800MHZ PC6400), installed it, and the system is running fine at 4GB. Is it likely that with the purchase of two 4GB cards I could turn this into a 8GB machine, or would the motherboard and/or processor capabilities preclude this modification (it wasn't built to be 8GB)?Max supported ACCORDING to ASUS is 4G so your outta lick...Thanks ANYWAY. When I can afford it, I guess I'll go for a gaming pc and do it right.Might as well...the Economy is counting on you...

Asus P5N-e SLI
core 2 duo E6850 3.00
vid cards: Nvida 7950
win7 64 bit
ram: 4g kingston pc2-8500
Computers really slow I've cross checked everything with my computer and everything works when hooked up to my GAMING system and its a 780i. I have flashed the bios nothing improved. When its posting it shows 256 MB ram and as I've stated there is 4gb in it. The other problem is the hard drive was wiped and its really slow at doing the LOADING of that. 1) To check the ram, download memtest (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot order in bios, then boot to the newly CREATED cd and run the utility.

2) I don't understand the last sentence of your post ("the hd was wiped and it's really slow ad doing the loading of that")Why did you flash the BIOS ? ?

The RAM being mis-reported is the 1st clue...
Ram /memory info starts on Page 2.4 in the owners manual.

I have the same MBoard and NEVER saw a BIOS flash issued that was needed since i bought it new years ago...

Hey, I've slowly been upgrading my PC over the few years I've had it, starting with RAM, then graphics cards/ PSU etc, and I'm finally getting to the point where I'm thinking of going to the next step with a new motherboard and CPU (and using the old components to rebuild the INITIAL computer). Really, I'm not sure where to start looking with this, it seems wierd basing everything around the compatibility of all the other components... but it's at the point where I don't want to start a new build, knowing the money I've spent on quality components (well, reasonable quality).

Here's the MAIN parts of my build so far:

Case - NZXT Phantom (plenty of fans)
CPU - AMD Athlon II X4 630
Motherboard - PEGATRON CORPORATION Narra6 Chipset Model MCP61
Graphics - GeForce GTX 460
RAM - 8GB DDR3 1333mhz (2x4GB)
HARD drive - 1TB WDC WD10 EADS-65M2B1
PSU - OCZ Fatal1ty Series 550W Modular PSU

I've found a bundle which I'm interested in right now, for a CPU, motherboard, and more RAM:
http://www.ebuyer.com/394074-amd-prebuilt-bundle-with-gigabyte-ga-78lmt-s2p-socket-am3-motherboard-amd-fx-4100-processor-gbt-amd-4100-4gb.
Would these work with the other components I'm using right now?
If anyone knows of anything better around the same price range, I'd really appreciate the advice.This barebone setup comes with RAM that is faster than your existing RAM and I wouldnt mix RAM speeds.

Yesterday I was looking at a similar upgrade myself as for I am running Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz AM3 CPU in a AM2+ motherboard that is at its Memory Limit of 4GB of DDR2 800Mhz. I too have gone the path of small upgrades over time in which a motherboard upgrade is needed to upgrade further.

I found an AM3+ mATX motherboard that supports 16GB of DDR3 and was going to go with that solution, but was advised to avoid MSI Brand and go with ASUS or Gigabyte Brand. Now looking at your post, I have to Thank You for posting this, as for the board you linked is a perfect match for what I need since it claims to support 16GB is an AM3+ mATX, and has dual PS2 keyboard/mouse ports to work with my 4-port older PS2 type KVM!

With this bundle everything you have will work except I wouldnt mix the 1600Mhz with 1333Mhz RAM. It comes with 1 x 4GB 1600Mhz RAM stick. I'd pick up another 4GB 1600Mhz stick and have 8GB of faster RAM if you want to use the stick that comes with this. Otherwise dont use the 4GB stick that comes with this and just move your existing 8GB RAM over at 1333Mhz. * Sometimes you can mix fast and slow RAM and have 12GB and the faster 1600Mhz stick will downclock to 1333Mhz, but this is not an option with only 2 RAM slots anyways.

As for myself I want to make the leap to the maximum memory of 16GB of DDR3 1600Mhz, and use the rest of my existing hardware including Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz AM3 CPU until the quadcore isnt enough and upgrade further. Now that I know what board to look for I can try to find the board alone and match it up with 16GB 1600Mhz RAM and move my CPU over to it.

My current setup is:

AM2+ Biostar MCP6PB M2+ Motherboard
(Originally a dual-core Sempron x 2 2.00Ghz, barebone $65 Motherboard / CPU Combination bought in 2008)
Now an AM3 Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz ( from a free upgrade out of a bricked HP that I yanked the CPU out of that was being thrown away a year ago)
2 x 2GB Corsair 800Mhz DDR2 RAM ( Ram I bought for $10 off my brother )
PCIe Radeon 5450HD 1GB DDR3 Video Card ( $30 video card )
OCZ Agility 90GB SSD SATA III running at SATA II backwards compatability ( $65 back to school Newegg special )
Seagate 500GB SATA II Hard Drive ( was found thrown away dead, sent it back to seagate for warranty replacement when i found it was still under waranty, my cost = $6 shipping - Got replacement drive 2 weeks later )
----------------------------------------------

New Build will be:

Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz in an AM3+ Motherboard
( I want the AM3+ for processor support for the FX chips when I get one cheaply, it was convenient that my AM2+ supported the AM3 that I got for free. Maybe having the AM3+ will allow for another free future upgrade)
16GB 1600Mhz DDR3 Corsair RAM
*All other hardware migrated over drives & video card.
And the upgrade to Windows 7 64 bit

Okay, thanks!
I've heard about not mixing RAM speeds before, and was considering buying something faster anyhow. Buying more RAM isn't too expensive at least, so I think I can afford it, and even give the sticks in there right now to boost up the old PC I'm rebuilding (it was originally 2 slightly slower 4GB ones, so win win!).
Either way, thanks again, and glad my post helped ya out as well. =)Just wanted to mention that I am finding mixed information for this motherboard as far as maximum RAM support. I was going to buy this board for $60 at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128504&Tpk=GA-78LMT-S2P and when taking the time to verify specs ( 8GB Maximum Memory ) caught my EYE. The site your barebone is listed on as well as Gigabytes website state 16GB Max DDR3 RAM 1333+ , YET ... the memory supported page here http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_ga-78lmt-s2p.pdf shows NO SUPPORT for 8GB RAM sticks!


So if you are buying this for 16GB Max Ram like I want to, you might want to check with the business that you buy this from to verify that it will take 16GB with only 2 x DDR3 slots and memory supprt that suggests 4GB MAX per slot. I contacted Gigabyte support requesting maximum memory verification as for I believe the 16GB as advertised is incorrect. Doubling my RAM isnt worth spending money for, but 4 x my current RAM count from 4GB to 16GB + being able to migrate my CPU and all other devices except for RAM is what I need. You too might want 16GB Max RAM supported as well to be worth it! I'm personally fine with 8gb RAM, as it more than suits my current needs. =P
It's a shame not having the option to upgrade to 16GB like it states, and really that should be changed on the website (false advertising)... but for now I'll survive, since I've already ordered the bundle anyway, hehe.
Some of the main issues with my current build are that it could be faster, and I have the need for the 2 extra sata ports... as well as solving that, it seems to suit all my other needs, so long as it'll all work fine together... so no worries.
Thanks again though for the warning. =)Hey no problem and glad that its still what you need after ordering it already and finding out later that it supports only 8GB as mentioned in the manual that I just dug up. http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-78lmt-s2p_v.5.0_e.pdf As someone already suggested, I might have to go with an ATX vs mATX motherboard to get 4 memory slots for the 16GB RAM that I need. Wasn't planning on replacing the case that I like, so I am being a little hesitant as for I'd like to have an AM3+ motherboard with 16GB DDR3 RAM for under $150 and the larger case replacement would put me above what I really want to spend. I am a penny pincher when it comes to computer hardware, I GENERALLY run it into the ground before moving on to new hardware and perform lots of small upgrades inexpensively to stay up to date with modern computing needs taking advantage of free or inexpensive upgrades when they come my way.

Hi I am having a lot of problems with my Acer ASPIRE 5552 laptop and a Dell projector. I set the RESOLUTION to 1280x768 as advised and used the windows logo key + P to SELECT Duplicate ( I have also tried Extend and Projector only) I get the presentation to display on the screen but randomly and quite often the display is switched back to Computer only, losing any display on the screen.

Previously I have used this laptop and the Dell monitor without any problems The only difference is a change in venue with the projector now being ceiling mounted, though other TRAINERS have not experienced any problems .

Would appreciate any help.

Regards

Dave

I have a Systemax SYX Venture VXC2 Tower PC, two years old, with
Intel Core 2 Duo E7500
Asus P5KPL-CM mATX Motherboard
4GB DDR2 800MHz PC6400 Memory
Windows 7 Pro 64-bit

Gaming interest has led me to buy an EVGA GeForce GT520, 1024MB DDR3 Video Board

As a retired PEng, I am fully experienced with mounting the board, and connecting to my Samsung SyncMaster P2450 Flat Screen.

Would some one care to walk me through start up? EVGA instructions pretty clear as to loading new driver and set up. My concern is their sentence... "Before installing our driver, please make sure you have uninstalled prior display drivers from the Windows Control Panel, and have disabled any integrated graphics adapters in the Device Manager if necessary". Bold type is my addition.

Is it possible uninstalling and DISABLING manually may not be necessary with Windows 7?Unless you had a graphics CARD installed previously and upgraded to this one, you will be fine. The BIOS will disable the onboard card when a dedicated card is detected.If you have installed a previous graphics card, make sure you have removed the driver via Add or Remove panel or the uninstall method. If your just using the onboard graphics for the desktop, just go straight to inserting the card to your PCI slot, boot to windows and install the CD or online drivers. Some motherboards disables the onboard GPU as some would require to disable on BIOS setup. Go to your BIOS so you would see if which one is enabled.Thank you gentlemen! That is what I wanted to hear. I'll post once more after I do it and let you know the results. Turned off PC and flat screen, opened pc side panel, cleaned off the dust, mounted video board, added screw which holds card in place, changed analog cable pc to flat screen, to digital cable from new video card to flat screen, replaced pc side.

Turned on flat screen, turned on pc, booted up to desk top (a little grotesque in size and icons). PC searched for driver, I stopped the search, loaded GeForce disc, loaded driver software clicking a few prompts, restarted COMPUTER when asked, project completed. Samsung SyncMaster screen auto changed to digital mode. All screen info sharp and clear. WOW game graphics beautiful. Thanks for your help. So much easier than I though it would be. That's great to know!
Thanks for coming back and SHARING your results

been having this problem all day and its driving me nuts!

i cannot pin point what is wrong, but i'm suspecting something in my system is over heating. it only does it when i put my pc under load, like when i'm playing counter strike GO or RENDERING a video on sony vegas. i can do these things for a little over 5 minutes before everything just shuts down without warning, no bsod or errors. otherwise, everything runs fine just doing basic stuff like the web and watching videos. i checked the thermal paste for my cpu, it was pretty dry, but even after i put a new blob on its still shuts off. i also went ahead and cleared dust. thought it was my video cards, but the gpu temps aren't under stress. however, the weird thing is when i played games or tried to render a video, the fans on my cards don't work as hard as they usually do. i tried speeding them up 100% with NVIDIA's control panel, speed fan, and evga's precision x on different occasions, but they get no where near it. it sounds like i can only get them to 30-50% max. my cards are usually pretty loud when i play or render but they dont even sound like they change fan speeds anymore. its the same for both of my cards, not just 1.

here is a screen shot of speedfan while i was trying to render a video for about 1 minute. im not too familiar with it but obviously something is getting hot.



main specs:

msi nf750-g55 mobo

2x evga gts 450 configured for SLI

AMD phenom II X4 955

4gb ram

i don't over clock anything. its all default.

Sounds like the sensors for the regulation of your fans (based on temperatures) has failed.truenorthSpeedfan is unreliable, try HWInfo.
http://www.hwinfo.com/Quote from: Computer_Commando on October 01, 2012, 09:18:08 AM

Speedfan is unreliable

Speedfan works fine for me on 3 Shuttles: an ST62K (3 GHz P4 Prescott core, a notoriously hot running CPU), an SN78SH7 (3 GHz AMD Phenom II) and an SZ68R5 (3.4 Ghz i7 2600k). The ST62K has been running as a home server since November 2004, approx 18 hours a day approx 350 days a year. The SN78SH7 has been running approx 18 hrs a day for 30 months, and the i7 machine is looking good still after 6 months. I know of another 6 machines owned by other people who have reported no problems.

I currently have like 20 "howstuffworks" tabs opened in my browser about computing, and im still confused as *CENSORED*. Where i begin from? BIOS? How to use windows? Motherboard? Shall i read about busses?

If you want to learn GUITAR, you learn the position, then how to place the hands, and then some basic chrods, then a couple techniques and you start playing songs. Its a clear hierarchy of routines and habits that are learned in a linear fashion, where at the end you can play a song.

So where is the heirarchy at learning how to work with your computer? Do you begin from the ROM or RAM? From motherboard or BIOS? Do you even start with hardware at all?

I am at a complete and utter loss at how to manage my computing learning routine.


P.S: New here First, welcome to the forum

Second, let's start with an easy question. What is it you are trying to learn about? In other words, what is your motivation for learning about computers and what specific EXPERTISE do you wish / HOPE to attain?I just bought a new soundcard, and i want to record music on cubase 5 LE. I want to know how sound driver and recording software works in windows vista.

From where should i start?
maybe here

http://audio.tutsplus.com/articles/general/20-instructive-cubase-tutorials/Ive tried those and none of the tutorials tells you how to set up your soundcard or setup cubase, or work with computer drivers.

I was going to UPGRADE my gaming unit so that it would be able to play more modern games. I was planning on keeping the video, audio, PSU, DVD, Floppy, Harddrives. Thing is that IM looking for something that can use a AMD Atalon 64 x2, DDR 2, PSU 20 + 4, Least 3 PCI, On Board Nic, SATA/IDE Connectors. I was going to then use the PARTS to make a Server that are in there. Quote

I was planning on keeping the video,

Thing is that Im looking for something that can use a AMD Atalon 64 x2, DDR 2, PSU 20 + 4, Least 3 PCI, On Board Nic, SATA/IDE Connectors.

My PRINTER has been working all along,it just stopped working. It seems to get the signal
from my computer and kicks out 3 pages but nothing on it.
It's a hp 4500jet g510 g-m.It' only 3 months old.Computer w-7 only 6 mo.old.
I've rebooted computer and turned printer on and off a few times is all I've done so far.
I tried to call hp but GOT tired of waiting for call.If I had a place to EMAIL them that might
be what to do.The books with isn't fabulus.
Hope some one has an IDEA for me that'll work.
Thanks for your time.Uninstall the printer (software) and then reinstall it FOLLOWING exactly the sequence required in your manual.truenorth

Looking to upgrade my Motherboard/RAM to unlock the potential for 16GB RAM. Currently my aged AM2+ motherboard is running at Max RAM of 4GB 800Mhz DDR2 running Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz AM3 95W CPU.

Looked into an AM3+ motherboard shown here that supports my CPU as well as can be upgraded later on to an FX CPU: http://www.msi.com/product/mb/760GM-P34--FX-.html#/?div=Detail

My CPU is linked here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103706

Anyone know if 1600Mhz RAM would be too fast running at native clock of 2.6Ghz CPU?

Here is RAM I am thinking of getting. NEVER had an issue with corsair: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145357It should run fine both with the old and new CPU provided you're running a 64bit OS...

The one reservation i have is the MBoard itself...never had very good luck with them.
Is there another such as ASUS or Gigabyte that would fit your budget ? ?

Let us know.I'd be upgrading to 64-bit Windows 7 from current 32-bit. Already BOUGHT Windows 7 64-bit.

Problem I am having is finding an AM3+ mATX that supports 16GB Max Ram that is of a quality name and good feedback, and yet not too expensive as well.

ASUS has a nice BOARD as shown here, but 8GB Max

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131795 Will continue on the hunt for a 16GB mATX board. Computer case only supports mATX Oh also it NEEDS to have PS2 keyboard/mouse to work with my 4-port KVM as well as i saw that lots of newer boards are single PS2 and USB.Throw all the components in a spare mid-size case...just did this for a friend this weekend as his board had melting caps...

Hi Does the Bus allows you to access your work? this is for my coursework cheers if you can help.Question isnt very clear, but here is something that might help.

HTTP://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bus_(computing)
NEVER heard of an ICT BUS before and closest match is this http://www.elearning-africa.com/eLA_Newsportal/ict-buses-delivering-the-internet-to-rural-rwanda/This is how i would describe the bus. The bus is LIKE a motorway for the components to connect with each other through the CUP, ROM, RAM, I/O like you go though towns.

Here is a diagram link of the bus
http://www.sciencelobby.com/microprocessor-systems/images/microprocessor-system-diagram.gif

CHEER ANYWAY Quote from: jjcfootball on September 28, 2012, 12:50:37 PM

This is how i would describe the bus. The bus is like a motorway for the components to connect with each other through the CUP, ROM, RAM, I/O like you go though towns.

Here is a diagram link of the bus
http://www.sciencelobby.com/microprocessor-systems/images/microprocessor-system-diagram.gif

CHEER ANYWAY