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Hey guys I bought Asus
M5A99FX PRO R2.0

in specs it have Remote Go Option to USE it to stream movies from PC to tab or smart phones ...I installed this program in my iPhone 3GS and DESKTOP and put wire plug in my lan and TRY to control in my desktop but program in my iPhone get me try to CONNECT then after 1 min the message connect FILED I don't know why ?! ..can anyone help me?!!Sounds like it may be firewall or security setting maybe? I dont have an iPhone so I am just suggesting where to look. Its either network or security as my best guess.

i am using Zenith LAPTOP. DVD Drive not shown in my computer folder. sometime it appear but then again it removed? Plz help me1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...

2. Delete Upper & Lower Filters
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/982116
Restart computer.
or...

3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...

4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.
You MAY also want to remove and re-seat the CD drive physically...

Note: Shut down, remove the power cord, and remove the battery from the Zenith Laptop before removing the CD-ROM, CD-RW, or DVD drive. Hi Allan, the problem is CD/Dvd Drive is not shown in Device Manager. Now but i do?
Sometime EVERYTHING WORK fine with DVD Drive and sometime everything related to DVD Drive goes out of computer.Hi Patio, Is it easy to remove DVD drive and re insert it?There should be a small release button next to the drive...

Consult the Manual since we have no Model # info...Oh there is misunderstanding between us. I think u tell me to remove the Dvd device/writer from laptopI did...

I had an older Dell Dimension 521, I think C521, the skinny tower, where the motherboard has fried. I need to get my wifes files and photos into her laptop. It doesn't make sense to replace this motherboard. Will these Dell HD's fit into any of my older non Dell towers? COULD I put this HD into a cheap Dell computer off craigslist and then I still have a desktop? Or should I just invest $30 into one of those cables that connect to the HD, is it an IDE cable? Is there a specific type/make of cable that would work best? And if I buy a Dell to put the HD in, how do I know which ones will work? Since her PC is a laptop your most economical solution would be an external HDD caddy...
I'd suggest the ones with their own power adapter.
The unit connects via a USB port...your drive will show up as an external...and using Windows Explorer she can cop/move/burn to her hearts content...

Time to start thinking of a good backup strategy for all your PC's.
I use Acronis True Image ...Not FREE.
Macrium Reflect is the best Free alternative.The C521 has one serial ATA (SATA) hard drive.
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dimc521/en/SM_EN/index.htmQuote from: maple64 on September 28, 2012, 10:31:48 AM

Yeah, an external hard drive enclosure is the way to go. Just make SURE you get the one with the correct connection (SATA vs. IDE) and for the proper size drive, which if it's a tower, is 3.5".

I bought and installed a wireless printer for my laptop (windows7) and it is working fine. Now, I have my desktop(windows XP) which is connected (WIRED) to a DIFFERENT printer which is my primary printer, but I now want my desktop to also have the capability to also print to the wireless printer which I installed for my laptop. I tried setting up a network on my XP desktop and searching for the wireless printer by its IP address but that didn't work, maybe I am doing something wrong. ??
Please help.. Are you sure your desktop is wireless?Depending on your network setup, it's likely the wired computer can't see the wireless printer. If you only have one router, you'll have to go into the router settings. If you have multiple routers or switches, you have to CONFIGURE them so traffic can go between the networks.Both PC's need to be in the same Workgroup and have file and print sharing enabled...Quote from: patio on September 30, 2012, 05:47:16 AM

Both PC's need to be in the same Workgroup and have file and print sharing enabled...

Hi, Each time I turn on my computer it goes into the "bios" SET-up screen....after I set all the values it will GO to my windows xp pro & my log in screen....Then it works fine....but....when I SHUT down & the next time I go on , it enters the bios screen again ? any help ? ThanksI suggest you replace the cmos battery on the MOTHERBOARD. Let's see if that's the problem.Hi, Thanks , I will try that.Yes, It was the battery....Its the very same one USED on a bathroom scale, & my remote key-less entry for my vehicle...a CR2032...Thanks againYou're welcome.

System Specs:
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+
GPU: XFX Radeon HD 6850 1GB
Motherboard: M61PME-S2
RAM: 4GB DDR2
PSU: 880w Power Supply
OS: Windows XP SP3 and Windows 7 Ultimate duel boot partition

Problem: I recently installed a new PSU and GPU for the computer for kids to play their games, the PC belongs to my parents and is rather out-dated. After installing the new GPU it seemed to work okay, I tried stress testing with furmark and setting games to their highest graphical options. It seemed very stable and it ran everything at a very high framerate (Arma 2, Sims 3, Dragon Age 2, Skyrim etc.)

However WHILST doing non-GPU intensive activities such as browsing the web or just looking at the desktop, the computer freezes, and the screen turns to a block colour (sometimes with vertical lines). I know this usually indicates a problem with the GPU.

A few solutions I have found online and have tried include increasing the idle clock speeds from 100/150mhz (for GPU clock and MEMORY clock RESPECTIVELY) in Catalyst Control Center, to 450/800, as instructed by a person with a similar problem. This had no effect, on both Windows XP and Windows 7. Before this I had tried reinstalling and sweeping any old drivers from the computer and doing fresh installs of updated drivers to no avail.


I cannot try the GPU in another machine (as I don't have another), but are there any suggestions as to what the problem could be + possible solution?

Thanks in advance.Bump. Need help.Still have a problem, any suggestions at all?

NVidia GeForce GT 630M or AMD RADEON HD 6670? Don't consider prices.I USE Passmark for my whats better lookups. They score the Radeon 6670 better than the Geforce GT 630M. Their data is collected from systems out there running these GPUs and then averages of all systems are used to give a score which is pretty realistic. I use this site for CPU and GPU lookups to compare etc.

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GT+630M

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Radeon+HD+6670Thank you

Hi,

Recently i bought a new dell laptop, it is a dell inspiron 15r n5110 model, ( i do not know why it has such a long name). My previous laptop was a dell inspiron 1525 and i was very pleased about it so i decided to get another dell laptop. This new one has an i3 sandy bridge processor at 2.3 Gz, 4 Gb DDR 3 and a nVidia 525m with 1 Gb graphic card. All things fine until here.

The problem is that after 2 MONTHS i bought the laptop its motherboard adapter broke, the laptop just didn't want to start when pressing the power button. In service they told me that motherboard adapter burnt and was replaced. Ok, now the laptop is back and i monitor the heat of motherboard with "Speccy" program which indicates only with Firefox open (i am on windows 7 ultimate) an average 48 Celsius degrees which for me SEEMS a lot, after i start a pc game Civilization 5 (recommended system requirements processor: 1.8 GHz Quad Core CPU memory: 4 GB RAM Video: 512 MB ATI 4800 series or better, 512 MB nVidia 9800 series or better) and play a little bit 30 - 40 minutes then the heat rises to 71 Celsius degrees thing that worries me, i was playing this game also before the motherboard to be burnt, could this be the reason for first laptop's ISSUE the fact that i was playing this game ?

Which should be the average temperature of motherboard ? And which is the maximum that can handle in terms of long running time for this laptop (the previous dell laptop when was over heating was just restarting but this one.... seems to be a piece of crap) ? I am afraid that in these circumstances 48 C as average and 71 C sometimes will burn the motherboard again after a while, i am right ?

Why this laptop got this good specifications regarding processor, graphic card, dynamic memory since its motherboard cannot handle them on their normal usage ? ( i am so disappointed about this, but may be i am wrong )

Should i stop playing this game because it can burn the motherboard ?

I also attached a picture with motherboard specifications when was monitored from Speccy.

I also mention that the cooler seems to work fine since it always push hot air depending on laptop's temperature and has a normal usage sound. ( as an escape after for instance playing this game for 2 hours the keyboard gets very hot on its left side where i believe that the processor is)

Please let me know about this if you got an idea.

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Those temps are so low compared to my inspiron 14r's normal temps (upwards of 80C) that I think you're fine. I've never heard about 71C temps 'burning' the motherboard before, I'd be interested to know where that information came fromSomething you may want to consider purchasing is a laptop standalone cooler.
http://www.google.com/search?q=laptop+coolers&hl=en&client=opera&hs=aZu&rls=en&channel=suggest&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=TUJeUKaGHaS9ywGz94DACg&ved=0CGYQsAQ&biw=1247&bih=839
As to whether your temps are excessive i cannot say (but they don't seem so to me).Contact Dell and describe your temp concern to them and see what they say. truenorthQuote from: TechnoGeek on September 22, 2012, 04:43:57 PM

I've never heard about 71C temps 'burning' the motherboard

Hello,
My laptop wont recognize any usb devies.
I've try doing the COMPUTER management thing and going under disk management, but there is no storage device in my disk management.
How do I fix this?

Thank you.Your usb drivers are on the MOTHERBOARD disc. well how do i fix it?What operating system? If Windows, are you familiar with device manager? You can check to see if there are any problems with the USB devices, there.it's windows.
but i dont know how to use the device manager.
i'm not very familiar with this stuff. can you be more descriptive please.Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...

Any YELLOW !'s or ?'s ....? ?Thanks, Patio -- my DIRECTIONS should've been more SPECIFIC! I dont' see any ?'s or !'s.

Do you see a section in Device Manager which shows USB (Universal Serial Bus Controller)?yes I see it. What do i do with it?Right click ALL instances of both roots and hubs and select Remove....you will recieve a Warning message...ignore it.
Upon re-boot Windows will automatically re-install them.
Do this with as few USB devices hooked up as possible.i did that just now, and it still didn't recognize anything.did you reboot?yes i rebooted.
but nothing changed.

a 200gb pata hdd that is partitioned into (approx) 170 and 30 gb NTFS partitions using norton partitionmagic is showing up as one unformatted hdd with 0 space and no file system in win2k. the 170gb partition is the primary master hdd where xp was installed in a separate rig -one now dead due to an unrelated problem.

the jumper is correctly set.

i've HEARD from multiple sources that it's common for partitioned hdds to show up as unformatted in windows, particularly in xp, but sadly no one remembers precisely how this problem is fixed. apparently the partition table needs to be reset or something -however, i'm very hesitant to proceed without knowing exactly what to do to recover all my data (hopefully without having to use something like norton getdataback, which requires a separate hdd); i'm especially wary of using some random app that could mess up the data that i'm SURE is still secure on the hdd. i'm considering installing norton partitionmagic on this pc, but i believe the proprietary formats norton uses may be the cause of this problem.

help?It's unclear how you arrived at this point...
Was it originally all one partition and you used norton to resize them with data already on the drive ? ?
You say you don't have norton installed so did you run this from a boot disk ? ?
More details...the 200gb hdd in question was used as the primary master hdd in a separate computer running windows xp pro. norton partionmagic was used there to create two new ntfs partitions, one 172.2Gb in size and the other 25.5Gb. unfortunately, that computer is no longer accessible due to a slipup (-literally; during cpu heatsink reattachment, i accidentally dislodged some components from the mobo when my screwdriver slipped :/) -and my backup pc running win2k sees neither partition and instead reports a single unlabelled hdd with 0 space and no file system.

i can confirm that all the data is still on the hdd and is perfectly accessible; i'm currently viewing the files using a linuxmint livecd (which, by the way, is pretty sweet).

what i would like to do now is to find some way to make both partitions on this hdd accessible on my win2k machine (which i must continue using for now because there are programs i use which require a windows os). i do not intend on 'upgrading' this pc to xp or vista.

EDIT: here's a screenshot of the partitioned drive in gparted, if it may help any:

i have another WEIRD thing to report: gparted, the partitioning software in linuxmint, reports the 172.2GB partition as being 160.40GiB and the 25.5GB partition as being 25.91GiB; in other words, unlike the file browser, gparted reports the size of the larger partition as being smaller and the smaller partition is reported as being slightly larger... now that is really weird. can anyone explain this WTFery?Is the Win2K system setup NTFS ? ?
If not there's your culprit.

BTW GParted size #'s will never match what Windows reports...win2k is updated to service pack 4 and ntfs is being used.

why should the partition sizes quoted in gparted not be trusted?

EDIT: i meant to say, the sizes gparted reports conflicts with the sizes the linux file browser reports; compared to what the file browser reports, the larger partition is quoted as being quite a bit smaller in gparted and the smaller partition is quoted as being slightly bigger. the fact that there is no consistency here is kind of troublesome.I didn't say it's not to be trusted.
ALL file managers use a slightly different method for reporting drive/partition sizes...
If you use 4 different file managers you will get 4 different results...

For example if a Windows system has prefetch data on it or a swap file existing a Linux app may not see them properly and mis-report it accordingly...

WELL that's a bad example but you get the idea.

GParted once told me my MBR was 172Mg.i feel i am one step closer to understanding my problem. from the wikipedia article on partitionmagic: "PartitionMagic is ... not compatible with Windows NT, 2000, or 2003 server EDITIONS."

urgh... never noticed that before. sadly, i'm still not entirely clear on how next to proceed. also, unfortunately, i am no longer in possession of any windows install disks. is there some other way to enter the recovery console without them (and in my case, which one should i use, the win2k disk or the xp disk?)?

i have made a message in symantic's forums and am also awaiting response from them.

@patio: are the sizes gparted reports in any way significant? i still don't quite get how it's giving me that kind of result, where the larger partition is reported as being smaller than it should be and the smaller one is slightly larger (but not enough to compensate for the reported size difference on the larger partition), but if it really doesn't matter in the realm of making these partitions error free and accessible on win2k, i think i can live with not knowing :p

at the end of the day, i just want things to work... well.Unfortunately when tou use a 3rd party partition app you are stuck with what you created...they all work differently.
I have had partitions/drives that could not be recovered using PQMagic...a wipe and fresh start was the only solution.
As far as recovery i don't understand when you state Win2K or XP...
A Win2K partition if repairable can only be done with the Win2K RC tools...these are available as a 4 floppy DLoad from MS.
Same with XP...to repair/recover you can only use the XP RC tools ...also available as a DLoad from MS.
Best of Luck.

hello there....could anyone help me with this?i'm connecting this PC to ANOTHER printer. But when i CLICK 'add printer' this prompt SUDDENLY appears...

Quote

Operation could not be completed. The print spooler service is not running.

My friends gave me an OLD computer for the heck of it I see that is has p2 on the motherboard (yup that old) but when I go to the system screen on the DESKTOP of says that of has a celeron processor not p2. is SOMEONE able to tell me why it says something different? ThanksHave you checked the ACTUAL processor, to see what it says on the chip itself?
Also, try a program called CPU-Z, and see what result that gives.
It's probable that this chip is a Pentium II based Celeron.

I am using Windows XP-SP3 & LG Webcam-LIC 100 as webcam. But recently it is not working. It is showing black screen. I tried to uninstall & reinstall the driver. But still it is not working. What must be problem?Did any documentation come with the webcam and did you read thru it? This sounds like something that is probably covered in he "Troubleshooting" section of the docs.It was working for last 4 years without any problem. i will go thro the help section.OK, try with messenger if it works!
Go to Tools- snd CHOSE Webcam settings, maybe it works, or go to Tools, Audio and Video setup.
Cheers.Also try it in a differnt usb port. I know that sounds kind of like UH that ISNT going to work but sometimes the ports build up dust and what not and stop working. I resolved a SCANNER issue by doing this so if nothine else.Thanx all of u. I tried the webcam on different USB ports, also on different computer as well as use yahoo & windows messenger for audio-video setting. But nothing worked. May be problem in webcam itself?Yes.
If you have tried it on other computers, and it does not work on any of them, then the webcam is shot. Time for a new one. odd seem like it is.Thanx all of u. I will go for a new one...Sorry we werent ABLE to help more. Also, i am limited in my knowdlge of cams.

Would that account for the GRAYED out "Speaker" setting in Windows Volume Control?Ha...good point.Go Start>Run, type in:
services.msc
Click OK.
What's the status of Windows Audio service?how likely is that versus speaker failure? as in some sort of short in the wiring or a faulty sound CARD?Did you see my last post?After TYPING in services.msc, the status is "started" and set as "automatic". my guess is that your headphone jack hypothesis is correct or the speakers did get disconnected from the motherboard. i carry the laptopop in my backpack occasionaly.Here is the service manual for your laptop. If you're okay with a screwdriver and patient, you can delve into the INNARDS of the laptop.

Best of luck and please post back.

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/manualCategory?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=500508&I had the same problem. I tried everything and was getting sound from the headphones only. I finally went into Control Panel using the classic view and clicked on Smart Audio. If you have it, click on that and run test 1 and Test 2 from the Audio Director tab. My sound came back during the test. I then noticed in the Voice Enhancements tab that speakerphone/internet telephony was selected. I unselected it by selecting "no enhancements". My sound now works. I may have clicked on the reset button while playing around with Smart Audio. Maybe it'll work for you too. I'm no computer brain so I have no idea why it is now working.Hey drmsucks
Nice to see you again Quote from: Broni on April 24, 2009, 09:09:08 AM

Hey drmsucks
Nice to see you again

I am lost trying to fix this problem, and you guys are my last hope. I came across some similar forum questions on the internet and there was no reply there to address the issue.

- I bought this printer yesterday, came home, plugged it in, and installed the drivers on my Desktop, which runs Windows XP.
- Then four messages pop up one by one at the bottom right:
- Unknown device FOUND
- Installing Driver
- Your hardware is ready to use
- One of the USB devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it.
- So I could not find the printer anywhere on my computer.
- I realized I should have installed the driver first, then plugged the printer in.
- So I uninstalled the drivers, unplugged the printer, installed the drivers, then plugged the printer in.
- The same thing kept happening.
- I tried a couple more times, tried downloading a driver from their website instead of using the CD driver, and nothing helped
- So I plugged the printer in to my laptop, which has Windows Vista, and it ASKED for the driver file, so I put the CD in
- Vista kept asking for about 3 times for me to pick the right installation file from the CD (as there were four different languages), and it went through the installation four times.
- Finally, it installed on my laptop & I was ABLE to print. However, I was unable to run the firmware update which lets me fix the Start button issue on this printer (you cannot scan with the Start button on the printer without the firmware update).
- I gave up, plugged the printer back in to the PC (this time in the front) and turned everything off.
- Today morning, the printer was showing up, but when I PRINTED, it kept telling me that a SendPrint call could not be made.
- I called Canon (they have a horrible automated system) and we went through reinstalling the driver all over, which did not help
- We tried switching from the gold to the SILVER USB cables and it still did not help
- We tried different USB ports, it didn't help
- I plugged in a portable hard drive and it worked fine on the USB port, so there wasn't a hardware related issue with my computer.
- Dell (the manufacturer of my PC) said that it could be a software related issue, but this has worked just fine for a lot of users.

Can you please help me install this printer on my PC? It was a great deal and I would hate to have this returned!!!

Info:
Printer: Canon ImageCLASS MF 4350D
PC: Dell Dimension 4600 Desktop, Windows XP, USB 2.0 Ports, 512 MB Memory, P4 3.6 GHZ, bought in late 2003...
Laptop: Dell Inspiron 1500, Windows Vista Ultimate, USB 2.0 Ports, 2.0 GB Memory, Dual Core 1.8 GHz, bought in 2007Hello aerofanatic.
Welcome to this forum. This is the best place I know of where people will give you honest answers. Not always right, but very frank .

You have done all the things you should do. You did a great job of research and trying something different. That's the way to go! FYI, plugging in printer and not do the install first is a very bad habit. You have to stop doing that. Becasue some printer drivers can never be right when you do that. You knot only have to un install, you have to go back a day or two in the System Restore to clean out registry references to the bad install.

Key question: Are you happy with the way the printer works on Vista? Who sold you doing firmware update on a new printer? That sounds like a reason to take the printer back. We are not talking about some hidden feature.
Quote

[(you cannot scan with the Start button on the printer without the firmware update).

Rig...Comp same thing...
http://rig.urbanup.com/769942

What ever you want to call that electronic contraption that is sitting on your desk

Let get back on topic shall we?



Quote from: Dias de verano on MARCH 31, 2009, 03:32:01 PM

To me, a hacker has always been an incorrigible coder, with no implication of illegality or wrongdoing. Linux was built by hackers. In the 1980s I read in a magazine that a hacker's computer was one with a built-in ashtray.

Rig...Comp same thing...
http://rig.urbanup.com/769942

What ever you want to call that electronic contraption that is sitting on your desk

Let get back on topic shall we?

Same definition.

what do you think will happen? No more cooling fans would mean a rise in temperatures and a eventual breaking of the computer.

Only to Yanks North Americans. Back it my teens it was a ham radio transmitter

hi mornin' im having this problem everytime im trying to use my WEB cam.. (sory, you have no video capture hardware) my os was windows xp home edition and the usb cam was TD998 usb cam... but before i was using windows xp im not having that problem using he same cam.. i dont know the problem..i already tried to removed and installing again the progam several times.. but nothing HAPPEND.. wish you could help me out...thanxQuote

my os was windows xp home edition

It's not XP anymore?

I'm asking, because I had some impression from your first post, that OS was changed, and then the cam stopped working.
If it's not the case, did the webcam stop working just overnight?

I see...
Did you reinstall webcam driver?

Okay, here's my situation;

My friend went away for a few days, leaving his PC (Windows XP) at home. When he got back he attempted to turn it on and nothing happened. The fan spun for literally a second and then stopped.

After doing this, pressing the power button did nothing unless you were to unplug the power chord and plug it back in and power on, and then it would just do what it did before.

So after a while of fiddling around, i figured out that when you unplug his hard drive, the computer powers on and sits at the BIOS screen reminding me of the missing hard drive.

So now we know what the problem is. However i brought his hard drive home and plugged it into my computer externally (USB) and it worked. All his files and folders are still on the hard drive and it's working fine.

So what does this mean? Can anyone shed any light on the matter? Hard drive randomly conflicting with it's fellow hardware after 2 years of flawless behavior?

Thanks for the help guys Ah good Lewk, you FOUND your way over here and got your post up.

Like I was saying in chat, something may have happened to the power supply, although it's strange that it starts without the hard drive. Perhaps it is overloaded by that one last piece.

Like I mentioned in chat, try swapping it with a known working drive and see if it will boot.

Do you have another working power supply? Might try swapping that out and see if it boots with the original hard drive. (This is more of a pain than the first suggestion, but it will help rule out the PSU.)Could be the data cableDon't blame the hard drive. Most hard drives are faithful workers and only ask that you treat them gently. Do not use them as paper weights, nor for driving nails into the wall.
Now power supply are something else. They claim to be tough and can dish it out. And you can drive nails with them and they will still work. Beware! When you least expect it, they will play sick and will not get out of bed.

So you unplug them from the juice and they pretend to be all right. Unless you put in an old hard drive that is having trouble with a dirty motor. It ask the power supply for just bit more on the 12 volt line and the power supply says 'No' I am not going to do any more, my capacitors are weak and my diodes are getting hot, I am gong to play sick until they get rid of you.'

It is the power supply. They really know how to fool you into THINKING it was somebody else. Never trust an old Power supply. They are an evil breed.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 22, 2009, 12:53:21 AM

Don't blame the hard drive. Most hard drives are faithful workers and only ask that you treat them gently. Do not use them as paper weights, nor for driving nails into the wall.
Now power supply are something else. They claim to be tough and can dish it out. And you can drive nails with them and they will still work. Beware! When you least expect it, they will play sick and will not get out of bed.

So you unplug them from the juice and they pretend to be all right. Unless you put in an old hard drive that is having trouble with a dirty motor. It ask the power supply for just bit more on the 12 volt line and the power supply says 'No' I am not going to do any more, my capacitors are weak and my diodes are getting hot, I am gong to play sick until they get rid of you.'

It is the power supply. They really know how to fool you into thinking it was somebody else. Never trust an old Power supply. They are an evil breed.

Well well well, what a surprise.. You guys were right

Went out and bought a new power-supply and there ya go, all works perfectly.

Cheers guys you know your stuff

or just to hang out and learn something.

When I use forward slash key in my computer it is giving hash sign. Can any one give a SOLUTION to this problem ?Change your Regional SETTINGS in Control PANEL --> LANGUAGE and Regional Settings.Also if possible, borrow another keyboard from somewhere to rule out a faulty keyboard Another possibility is to use the numeric key pad.
Hole down the Alt and type 47 and release the Alt key. /

Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 24, 2009, 11:45:03 PM

Another possibility is to use the numeric key pad.
Hole down the Alt and type 47 and release the Alt key. /

Hi Guys!

I can ACCESS something called "Lease Time" showing up the DEFAULT value-3600 within DHCP SETTING of DSL-502T. What exactly is the same?

What's its "SIGNIFICANCE" & is there any "Special Value" I can put to TWEAK the same?The lease time is the amount of time that the IP address asigned by a DHCP server (your router) will be valid. When the time RUNS out the DHCP client (your computer) will request a renewal. The setting of 3600 (seconds) means that the lease time is 1 hour. You can set it to different values but it will not make ANY difference. Don't worry about it.

What's a supposed RELATIVE ? ?
They're either related...or not.he claims that his great great grandmothers SISTER or something LIKE that is REALTED to

I have a Dell Vostro 400 mini tower with Vista OS. A few problems going on; first computer will not post. The Dell start up screen comes up but will not hand off to Windows OS. Problem number two; I can't use the keyboard to get into BIOS because the USB keyboard doesn't work in any of the USB drives on the computer; i.e. the GREEN light doesn't come on. I did plug the keyboard into my laptop and the green light came on, so I am thinking it isn't a problem with my keyboard.

I have plugged and unplugged the keyboard, trying to restart computer without DEVISES plugged in as well as having devises plugged in on other REBOOTS. I have tried plugging keyboard in to other USB drives; tried both on the back panel of the computer and in the four drives on the front of the computer without any success.You will need to borrow or buy a PS2 keyboard/mouse combo...
Everyone should have one...EVEN if it sits in the closet.Quote from: patio on April 25, 2009, 07:16:13 AM

You will need to borrow or buy a PS2 keyboard/mouse combo...
Everyone should have one...even if it sits in the closet.

You will need to borrow or buy a PS2 keyboard/mouse combo...
Everyone should have one...even if it sits in the closet.

Dear Forum,
I am considering a new computer for trading stocks. I normally run three trading platforms at once; TradeStation, Fidelity, ETrade, and sometimes Think or Swim. I have a Dell Dimension4700, P4, with 1GB RAM, and a 256MB Nvida GeForce 6800 Graphics Card. I have Verizon DSL. I have to restart each day, as by the end of the day the computer slows down. The TS platform loads pretty slow too.
Do you think it is largely the DSL that is slowing things down, or do I need a new computer, and how much?
Do you think I could use my video card and hard drive, and just buy a new case, power supply, and mother board?
Thank you very much!
Sincerely, The graphics card is not your PROBLEM. The graphics used is stock tracking are very basic. I mean to say basic for the graphics card.The motion is slow. Only a few lines on a grid background. Simple colors .
The moving average math stuff is done by the CPU, not the graphics card.

When I did stock trading, I finally landed on just one program for my trading. Deep technical kinds of analysis you can do after the market has CLOSED. Which I used to do when I only had dial-up overseas.(CompuServe was $60 and hour.)

Later back in the sates I used Scotstrade for Day Trading. Because, at that time, they had the best, simple real-time tracking for the markets. During the day I would LIMIT myself to watching about a dozen stocks I felt would provide me an chance for a day trade.

http://www.scottrade.com/
Moderator. This is NOT spam. These people have the right kind of software for what he WANTS to do. There is a difference.

Pardon me for being so blunt, but day trading is not for boys and girls. It is for men and women. You are teeter off using just one program in the day time with a fast internet. Your brain is the best tracker for short term gains. But you need all the information in front of you on one screen that you can customize to fit your style.

To get to the point. The power of my computer was never an issue. My Internet connection had to be fast. I saw no advantage in having several disparate programs open at the same time. The one program could show me what I wanted to see, even if I never mad a trade with them! But I did. At one time I had three different brokers, but only one had the rel-time charts I wanted to use. There was no problem going on line with another broker, doing a trad, them close the browser window and go back to my real -time display, which was powered by a professional program written only for that one company. It was great and could handle sever windows at ones and I could ADJUST the size of each. One well integrated program with a clean simple presentation.

BTW. Don't bother doing a Google on Day trading. Find our of your friends or a friend of a fried that actually makes money at it. You may be surprised about how simple and direct their methods are. Thank you, Geek! I use the charts of my main trading platform for the other brokers. One is my retirement account (Fidelity) and I use the others for different commission advantages.
Would a dual core processor help?
Thanks for the information, especially about the graphics card.
Sincerely,
Mike
Glad to be of help. Excuse my spelling errors. I am now 70 years old and have some problems with my vision.
I think the most money I every make was on Fidelity Mutual funds. The rick there was not so much watching the day to day but knowing the history of the fund.

You do not need a dual core CPU. There is a piratical limit of the bandwidth on the internet connection. Here is a view of the CPU-USE on my computer, I have just aP4 I have a P4 at 2.9 G Hz and 1 GB of RAM. And a 30 GB SATA drive.
Most of the time my system runs idle, It is the Internet that is slow.

That is found in the task manager.Next time you are online, bring it up and see what is slowing you down.

On the link I gave you before, be sure and look at the guided tour. I believe you can start an account with them for just $2500. The software they have can be used to track any stock you want. Or fund. Or whatever. Watch the guided tour that explains what the software does.Like I said earlier, I might use their charts and turn around and buy the stock for another broker!

If you want to do something with you graphics, get a second monitor. It is great for following several things at once. Your card, I think, has a second output. I have two monitors off of on card in my workshop. Two monitors are very nice!

my system is dell optiplex GX270, 2.80GHz.
In the my computer properties it shows 2.80 GHz after that it shows 1.40 GHz in the second line.
But when i enters the system setup through F2 it is LABELED at the top with dell optiplex GX270 series Intel Pentium4 Processor: 1.40 GHz Bios version A07.
Again in the CPU information it shows clock speed 1.40 GHz.

somebody tolds me to update the BIOS i have updated it from A06 to A07, but the problem is still there.

If anybody knows please help me out of this problem.
thanksI'm not entirely sure, but I think I KNOW why.

The processor must be a dual core running at 2.8GHz. This means that the TWO cores are individually CLOCKED at 1.4GHz.
Thus, they both work to a clock speed of 2.8GHz.Hi Carbon dudeoxide
Thanks for your suggestion,
but
the actual cause was not that;

The only reason was the processor's bus speed which was 800 MHz.
on the other hand
system board supports only up to 533 MHz only.
By changing the processor not only the BIOS setup & clock is showing the right speed but also the speed of my system doubles.

Hi EXPERTS,


Afew weeks ago my parents were planing on throwing out a great computer, as the harddisk were broken. I asked if I could have it, and got it! Replaced the harddisk and got it up running XD
Though they also told me that before it broke, there were some STARTUP issues.

Error
Worked perfectly for a week, then suddenly refusing to startup. It simply makes some beep noises like a microwave and goes blank=( ~ Startup test fails


Now I would like some help, locating the component failing. Really hopes its just the video card or something like that.


4 QUICK beeps (PAUSE) continued by two additional beeps.


Computer info:

Don't have much, as I didn't have time to get familiar with it. But heres just what I remember:

OS: Windows Vista Ultimate
Security: Mcafee
Harddisk: Sata 160 GB
See if everything is connected inside your CPU first. All of the experts here will help you. Especially Carbon Dudeoxide hehehe.Open a side panel.
Remove all power sources.
Clean out the insides with a can of compressed air paying special attention to the fan/heatsink combos.
NOTE: Use a QTip to hold the fans in place when blasting them.

After cleaning remove and re-seat the following:
Vid card
RAM sticks
Any other addon cards.

Check all wired connections to make sure they are snug at both ends.

When finished plug in and power up.....see how that goes.
If this produces the same results then replace the CMOS battery...about the size of a dime on the MBoard...part# CR 2032 AVAILABLE anywhere.



Again make sure to remove all power.
When finished power back up and see.
If still no joy joy i would borrow a known good Power SUPPLY of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there.

Best of Luck.Thanks..Tried cleaning and reseating. Didn't work, so now im going for replacing the CMOS Battery


But if it really were it, wouldn't it just say: ''CMOS Battery Failure'' ? @[emailprotected]

hm


LITHIUM BATTERY
CR 2032
3V Japan STD
Sometimes yes...sometimes no.

Well. i am REALLY not sure if i have lost it.. its gone from my device manager. When I refresh that its still missing.. I checked and its still pluged into the motherboard..

how do I check it and see if it is really gone?? I did have much info in it just some anime, movies and some porn.

Any thoughts would be helpful.. thankYou didn't have to divulge the contents of the drive. Files are files.

1. Check that it APPEARS in the BIOS.
2. Try it in another computer (as a slave drive).If a drive does not get up to its normal speed, the BIOS may treat it as a failure and not log it in. This can be unexpectedly caused by:
1. Erratic power connectors.
2. WORN bearings or dirt in the drive HDD motor.
3. A weak power supply

And the are the usual every day things, which you shooed have already checked out..
1. Somebody three the PC off the desktop.
2. At last night's party they put beer in the PC fan.
3. Your ferrets got in and chewed wires.can i get a little step by step info on how to check my storage if it's on the right place's thanksYou are TALKING checking device manager. In order to do that, you must run Windows, which is run from your hard drive.

Do you have more than one physical hard drives in your computer?Right click My Computer and select Manage...then Disk Management...does it show up there ? ?

I have a very strange problem so I was hoping someone else my have a clue to what is really going on here. My problem is that sometime not all the time lets say 5 out of 10 times when I boot up as soon as I get to the screen where you see the blue LINE LOADING Windows the screen is all LINES but as soon as I get into Windows or the desktop it with display the graphics as normal like any desktop screen. The graphics card is a 9600 GT with 512 DDR3 ram which is brand new plus a bland new 800 Watt PSU and I had ASUS replace the 9600 GT for a new a new one for just this same problem as I thought that the VIDEO card was the problem but evidently not as I still have the same problem with the new card and I have also installed the newest drives both from the CD and the NVIDIA and ASUS website with still the same problem so maybe someone else has had this problem to so please I need help I seem to be losing my hair any help.

System

Intel Core 2 Quad 3.33 GHZ

Hard Drive 1 TB

Ram 4 Gigs DDR3

Asus motherboard

800 Watt PSU

DVD Rom
Are you getting any conflicts in device manager?....... Is there another slot you can try the card in....no sources of EMI nearby,... wirelessphone or flourescent table lamps,etc.

I know what a Moniters Contrast Ratio is it is the diferance between the Darkest Dark and the Lightest Light.

And you will see Ratings of 300 : 1

Now there is a Rating for the BRIGHTNESS of a Moniter and it is given in Candels Per Sqware Inch I think.

And it will be given in nT and you will see Ratings of 200 to 400 nT.

What is this and how does this work??
All Moniters can be ajusted to how Bright they go or if you make it Dark so what is the Rating for if you can ajust it or is it telling you how mutch you can ajust it??
QUOTE from: nymph4

Candels Per Sqware Inch I think.

I am CURRENTLY on the verge of buying a new Power supply for my PC.

The current one one i have is the Integrated one which is a FSP ATX-250PA. I checked their website and couldn't find the same exact name but I found one that said ATX-250 and it said that dimensions were 140 x 150 x 86 without stating which is the W/H/L.

The one I am looking at is this one

http://www.rosewill.com/products/s_372/productDetail.htm

In the specs it SAYS its dimensions are
W x H x L
150 x 86 x 140 mm
5.90" x 3.39" x 5.51" inch

Are they the same? I want to MAKE sure so that I know it will fit in my tower.

The this is the PC I have http://www.viewpoints.com/Acer-Aspire-ASE380-UD440A-reviewshttp://www.calculator.org/properties.htmlQuote from: xxXplicitP on APRIL 24, 2009, 04:28:45 PM

The current one one i have is the Integrated one which is a FSP ATX-250PA. I checked their website and couldn't find the same exact name but I found one that said ATX-250 and it said that dimensions were 140 x 150 x 86 without stating which is the W/H/L.....
The one I am looking at is this one ...
In the specs it says its dimensions are
W x H x L
150 x 86 x 140 mm
5.90" x 3.39" x 5.51" inch .
Are they the same? I want to make sure so that I know it will fit in my tower.

There are the same.

hi,i recently bought a used projector from a friend and i want to play blu-ray through it,this is an old projector and only has a VGA analogue that i can use.My question is, if i buy a blu-ray driver will i be able to play the disc from the VGA of my PC card to the projector,and will i get 1080p from the VGA?A friend of MINE says it wont work because of the HDCPproblem.But i read elsewhere that HDCPonly works with dvi and Hdmi.If i cant play through VGA its not worth buying the driver so if anybody can help me i really appreciate it.Thanks.if the projector does not support HDMi or high-def, then no it is not worth it at all.i already play 1080p HD and it looks great!!!My question is will it play 1080p from blu-ray???It should play at the highest quality available from the blu-ray, however, to get smooth playback you should have a blu-ray compatible graphics card as well, or a very POWERFUL processorQuote from: Kurtiskain on MAY 03, 2009, 05:24:52 AM

It should play at the highest quality available from the blu-ray, however, to get smooth playback you should have a blu-ray compatible graphics card as well, or a very powerful processor

From what I read, VGA does not support High-Def, and also is not limited by HDCP

Hey I have a EVGA 9600gt and the fan keeps hitting the SIDES. Is there anything that i can do about that. It has been working fine for about 3 months and now all of a sudden that happened. I think it was because i took it in a car for a small trip and maybe the bumbs messed something up. Is there a way that i can like TIGHTEN the fan or something?

Any HELP is appreciated.I don't know if this can be fixed easily, sounds like the fan has been knocked out of alignment.
Best to RMA it, EVGA has very good support and you should be able to get a replacement fairly easily.I take it RMA means return it?

And I will CONTACT EVGA and ask for one.Sorry yes ... RMA = Returns Merchandise Authorisation. To RMA something is to return it, I should have clarified.

I recently got a MACBOOK & WANT to rid myself of my Dell with Windows ME......I don't know the proper terminology, but how do I remove everything from my hard drive so I can dump everything else in recycling? BEST Buy sold me a "flash drive"? (not sure ) but it was compatible with all Windows OS EXCEPT ME. PLEASE HELP ME:)
HOLLYQuote from: hkorus on May 04, 2009, 01:13:54 PM

I recently got a MACBOOK & want to rid myself of my Dell with Windows ME......I don't know the proper terminology, but how do I remove everything from my hard drive so I can dump everything else in recycling? Best Buy sold me a "flash drive"? (not sure ) but it was compatible with all Windows OS EXCEPT ME. PLEASE HELP ME:)
HOLLY

hi i have my photos all saved on a seperate hard drive but when i went to open them it is saying the drive is not formated and do i want to format the drive!!
but this will erase the drive surely thus eraseing all my pics


any help will be much appriciated

jamieExternal drive ? ?
This normally indicates the drive was unplugged prematurely without using Safely Remove Hardware...
You could DLoad and try Recuva....and we'll keep our FINGERS crossed....its an internal drive
i was instaling linux on my main drive which is partitioned and now dual boots, but the drive that has gone BAD is a seperate physical hdd which i use for photos this was partitioned but is now showin as one partition i think the data is still all there but comp can not just recognize it


will give recovera a try though

taIs it a separate physical hard drive and not a partition?

Can you not ACCESS it in both Windows and Linux?IDE or SATA ?its a sata and yes totally seperate drive but internaljust checked and its not avalible in linux either

dont know why i didnt think of it before but just DONE a system restore and it works fine now and all the files are intact.

many many thanks for the quick advise though

jamieNow WOULD be a good time to start devising a regular backup strategy.....i prefer Acronis True Image but there are others...
Or if you're broke Macrium Reflect has a FREE Home edition.

Pakardbell Iextreme gold. The error I am getting when trying to boot the computer is this >system32 config/system.
Does anyone the answer to this error?More info...Quote from: patio on May 04, 2009, 12:03:26 PM

More info...

To all,
I'm looking to FINALLY getting real about BACKING up my computer which is about 12yrs old but works great. I NEED to know what external hard drive is available that will work with the old O/S. I have a USB card on board and it is USB 2.0. Thanks
Greg Most Ext HDs will work with 98SE.

FAT32(the file system that 98SE USES) can support up to 2 terabyte HDs, so you shouldn't have a problem there as far as size of Ext HD, but would be best to not push it to the limit.Any drive will do....they are not OS specific.
However since it's Win98 you will need to format it FAT32.
Directions for this will be on the drive manuf. site or the CD that ships with it.

Hello,

My dual boot 1.5 TB (Seagate) has been acting up. Whenever I boot into XP or VISTA everything is slow. The HHD light blinks at a constant rate no matter what's going on. The XP and Vista progress bar moves at a rate equal to the HHD light. I have used Seagates Seatools and the drive has passed the long test (4 HOURS) numerous times. I have emailed Seagate and am awaiting their reply. I would like to know if there are any other tests I can use to see what is wrong and what my next course of action is. Thanks.Have you fully checked the computer for viruses?I did a scar Wednesday and found nothing. This has been happening since Thursday night. If I could get in to a OS I would run it again but it takes a hour and a HALF to get to a desktop in Vista.If you have auto update turned on it may be trying to finish dloading and installing updates....
Any messages on boot up ? ?
There are no messages on boot up and I don't think it is because of auto update, I just did a update last week.Did this MACHINE run properly before ? ?
If it takes over an hour to boot to an OS there are serious issues here...Yes, this machine has been running very good for a year and half and this problem has just started Thursday.Did you run seatools under Windows or from the bootable cd ? ?
What protection apps are you running ? ?I ran Seatools from a floppy and i have MacAfee total protection on both XP and Vista.Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager....
Right clik IDE controllers and selct Properties.....see if the drive has dropped into PIO mode...We might have a break through. I booted this morning and it seemed to work. Vista did a chkdsk and found a bunch of stuff and seemed to correct it. so far it is running ok. All i did us unplug my extra HHD. I'm going to plug it back in now that everything works.

Don't see anything under Xp or Vista about PIO mode...That worked. Everything is fine and good to go.Good NEWS....Welcome to CH and stop by anytime !I found out it was the cables. Might have to replace them. Thanks.I replace mine yearly. For the price it's worth it.
Did a new build with a GigaByte MBoard yesterday and they have an improved SATA cable design with clik locks on the end...pretty nice as SATA plugs can easily be jarred loose...

I have an older (2005) system that is giving me problems; it will try to boot up, but I get blue screen with error MESSAGE about CORRUPT FILES. It is XP, and has worked great until recently.....what I do know is that when it runs memory test, it indicates "failed"; but every once in a while this machine will boot up and run fine. It will not get past this blue screen, even when using the Windows Boot CD.
The last error message I got said NTFS.SYS corrupt.......anybody with any good guesses?
I am thinking about wiping the hard drive and rebooting, but that is a last resort. XP/250Gb/2Gb memoryThats the best thing you could do if there isnt anything you want to save, the hd isnt bad you got a BSOD or blue screen of death which is quite common.Thanks, that is what I kind of FIGURED; this thing has been a pain for a couple of days. I downloaded Active Killdisk and will use it to wipe it out, and then use the Windows OEM CD that came with system The windows disk will format it and setup a PARTITION for you.Again..............thanks Your welcome Run into this kind of thing alot.

I've been looking AROUND on the web a lot for video card upgrades for the Dell Optiplex 755. The problem is, everyone is trying to FIND a way to put in the very best and newest video cards, which turns out to not work since the power source isn't enough to handle it and there is only a single slot.

I would very much appreciate it if someone here can help find - The very best video card that IS compatible with the Dell optiplex 755, and requires no messing around -.

I use the desktop version, here are all of the specs from the dell website.

Number of Bays
1 internal 3.5", 1 external 3.5", 1 external 5.25"

Dimensions
H: 15.65" W: 4.59" D: 14.25"
H: 39.75cm W: 11.66cm D: 36.19cm

Slots
2 low-profile PCI
-(H: 2.5" X L: 6.6")
1 low-profile PCIe x16 graphics
-(H: 2.5" X L: 6.6")
Optional Riser converts the PCIe and PCI to either 1 PCIe and 1 PCI or 2 PCI - variable height
-(H: 4.2" X L: 6.9")

Power Supply
280W


So far on the website it shows ATi graphics cards, but I'm sure there are others that may be better and still work with the comp.

Currently I believe my computer is using Intel(R) Q35 Express Chipset Family, but I could be looking at the COMPLETELY wrong thing. I'm very new to WORKING with the mechanical aspect of computers, so please try to explain it so I can understand it easily, thanks.

ok here it is. when i turn the computer on it starts the start up process. about 5 or so seconds in to it it stops and starts over again. it does make a faint click SOUND when it does this. it is not the hard drive b/c i put the hdd into my other computer and it boots just fine. at first the fan over the chip set was beeeping but when i unplugged it to examine it i put it BACK in and reconnected it and it has stopped doing this. could this be caused by a bad power supply? i dont believe that the ram is bad but im not 100% on that. or could this be a heat related problem? i dont think it is due to the fact that it does this right away when you turn it on and just keeps repeating it, so it is not starting out hot. please help as i am getting frustrated.......thanx.When you say the (fan over the chip set ) are you referring to the CPU fan and heat sink?Well, if it was working fine and it just started doing this loop it's a good chance it's the power supply, swap in a known good one and you can eliminate the power supply if it still occurs......That clicking may be overload protection in the power supply kicking in............then reseat your ram.yes i mean the fan and heat sink over the cpu.
Did you replace the thermal paste?

Also Karnac has a good point if you have a spare power supply. i did a little more research, here is my next theory. the beaping is coming from my cpu. it is from what i read "crying for help". the pattern it is giving is 5 SHORT beeps. it is an AMD ATHLON 64 3800+ PROCESSOR, and the motherboard says ECS HT2000 on it. if what i read is right i just need to figure out what that beep sequence means and it will tell me the problem area. no luck finding this out yet though. if any one knows where i can find a data base for this i would greatly appreciate it!

by the way i swapped out power supplies and that is not the problem.Try this website

http://www.pantherproducts.co.uk/Articles/Motherboard/BIOSbeep.shtmlaccording to the beep codes the processor is bad. like i stated before the processor i have now is an AMD Athlon 64 3800+ i think it is 2.3ghz. i could not find this one any place i looked. what i did find in my price range is an AMD Athlon X2 5200 Brisbane 2.7ghz for about $55. these are both socket AM2. the questions i have now are.....

1) will my old fan and heat sink work for this or will i need a new one

2) what else do i need to make this switch i.e. thermal paste ect.

3) is there anything special i need to do after i install it and before i turn it on. or will my machine just boot up as it normally should and automaticly recognize the new processor

thanx again for all of your help!!!!!!

Well there are a lot of errors in this log, under APPLICATION, security has nothing and System also has no errors, just events 7035 and 7036.

Application has an error that is 8019 from ntbackup, and then a string of warnings events 1015 and 1020, 62.

I'll have to do a bit of research on these then and get back to you later, I have to go out for a bit.

patio, the mobo DRIVERS are they on the disk (you know, the one that I have installed on three machines now and keep getting a nag SCREEN about) or can I get them from the net?
Back later to do this research then.
Thanks ImnoGuru.

my graphics/video card is pretty old so im probaly going to upgrade it but can anyone tell me the location and what kind i should get.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8572/dsc00019gxz.jpg
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/2973/dsc00021igu.jpg
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1176/dsc00022ldu.jpgGraphics card is the card you plug the monitor into.If you plug in monitor in the area 1, you have on-board video, if in area 2, you have video card.

i plug mine in area 1 so how can i get or replace my graphic card?You can buy a video card at best buy or any computer store and put it in there in place of the on board video the only thing that you have to MAKE sure of is that you get the right one cause there are 2 different slots one is agp and the other is pci what kind of INFORMATION can you give us about your computer. Post computer brand, and model, and we'll check what type of card you can get.its a Intel(R) Celeron(R) compaq presario SR1120NX also the pics above is what it looks like without coverHere are your computer specs: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00189894&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=425921&lang=en
It says: PCI (slots) Three (two available)
So, you have two empty slots, where you can install your new video card.
Video cards COME in 3 flavors: PCI (the slowest), AGP, PCI Express (the fastest)
Yours is the first type: PCI (not PCI Express).
For instance, if you go here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&Description=pci%20video%20card&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True&Page=5, you'll find PCI cards (again, don't look at PCI Express cards).
There are even cheaper cards, but you want to have at 256MB of RAM on that card.
At the above page, you'll see three cards:
PNY VCG62256PPB GeForce 6200 256MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI Video Card - Retail
EVGA 256-P1-N399-LX GeForce 6200 256MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI Video Card - Retail
SPARKLE SFPC84GS256U2LP GeForce 8400 GS 256MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI HDCP Ready Video Card - Retail
All under $50.

I'm missing the top right piece of my hp PAVILION laptop, if anyone could TELL me what the piece that goes there is called, i would appreciate it.

[attachment DELETED by admin]Welcome to the CH forums.

We really do need the model number to identify your laptop. A Pavilion USER manual can be found here but the image of the base (Page.16) is not the image shown in your attachment.

Model # please.Are you talking about what fills that space or what covers it?

That's the hard drive bay with, apparently, no hard drive or cover.its a zv5400Quote from: quaxo on April 27, 2009, 02:39:26 AM

Are you talking about what fills that space or what covers it?

That's the hard drive bay with, apparently, no hard drive or cover.

Hi.

I have a Dell Latitude D430 LAPTOP RUNNING vista BUSINESS. My screen went out so i changed the screen and inverter now the screen just keeps blinking. Can anyone help? I can up load video if that would be an aid to anyone WILLING to assist me.You physically replaced the screen? Hmm... MIGHT be a bad video adapter.

i installed a power supply, i just turned it on and it loaded saying boot DRIVE not found insert disc. i restart and this timme i hit F1 for help and i noticed under my drives such as slave drive and all those it said "NONE" so i was wondering if any one off hand knew what i did wrong or what i need to do to fix this. thank you for your time. Double check the data cable CONNECTIONS to the hard drive and the MBoard...you may have dislodged them hooking up the PSU.
If it's an IDE drive then its a flat grey ribbon cable...if SATA a 1/2 inch WIDE cable...usually red.See if you can possibly change these to auto, or push enter on them, and re try an auto detect.

I would like to convert my Sony desktop to wireless internet.I just bought a Wireless G PCI Adapter. Can I remove the existing ETHERNET Adapter and replace it with the one that I just bought? I would really appreciate your help.

thank you

Short answer is YES...here is the link to help you out.

http://linksys.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/linksys.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=4084Thankyou KARNAC, shall TRY it

Get back to where the USB keyboard works. Then while using it, go into device manger and remove the internal keyboard driver, if you can. Reboot and let Windows 'discover' you laptop keyboard. Maybe this with force a re-install of the keyboard default driver. I don't know.Just one of my dumb ideas.GEEK et al,

I did the implementation of your suggestion a little different, as follows:
1. I checked and the internal keyboard (laptop´s keyboard didn´t work, no USB or PS2 keyboards phisically present),
2. I went directly to Device Manager and deleted PS2 keyboard, THERE WAS NO OTHER KEYBOARD PRESENT, though.
3. It asked me to reboot, before doing that, I checked and the laptop´s keyboard worked.
4. I rebooted, laptop´s keyboard didn´t work, no USB or PS2 phisical keyboards present, it installed the new device (PS2 keyboard), finished installing it, laptop´s keyboard didn´t work.
5. I rebooted again, I didn´t do anything else on Device Manager, just checked that PS2 was the only keyboard present.
6. when it got to windows, laptop´s keyboard didn´t work. No USB keyboard present either, nor PS2.

My guess once more is that a driver or something in that fashion is failing. keyboard is phisically ok as we determined with the tests. Any new procedure to test?

Patio and Geek, thanks for your valuable help.A look on the Sonay site would suggest that others have had this problem too. So, if you are crazy, so are they!

Quote

Follow this procedure to remove the keyboard from Device Manager.

1. Click the Start button, point to Settings , and click Control Panel .
2. In the Control Panel window, click the System icon.
3. In the System PROPERTIES window, click the Device Manager tab.
4. On the Device Manager tab, double-click keyboard .
5. Under Keyboard , click to select Standard 101/102 key or Microsoft Natural Keyboard .
6. Click the Remove button.
7. In the Confirm Device Removal box, click the OK button.
8. In the System Setting Change box, click the Yes button to restart the computer.