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I have a Toshiba Satellite running Windows Vista. It's only 4 weeks old. As of today the card reader won't work. I went to device manager and it says The device is disabled. I clicked on Enable and it says Windows was not able to enable this device.

What the heck? It shouldn't be broken already. Is there a way to fix this? It was working 2 days ago.

Thanks!

I uninstalled it and rebooted. The computer found and reloaded it but it still doesn't work. aces67, Those card readers are so inexpensive now why not just get another one and try it? Or if possible borrow one from someone else and see what happens.truenorthi AGREE,,,,
there are really some SD reader that are not working in vista,,,try it in XP it will work,,,maybe this things are not compatible...try to borrow other type of SD reader...This is the card reader that is built into my laptop though. Can I buy another one and have it put in or what? Best Buy just happened to call yesterday to check on my purchase and they said that if it's not working due to manufacturer's error then it's under warranty and they will fix it for free. Otherwise I have to pay them to fix it. I don't understand this. MY laptop is so new why would it be broke already?Quote from: aces67 on March 06, 2009, 06:13:30 AM

MY laptop is so new why would it be broke already?

So I'm on the road, my hotel has an extra cool LG 46" flatscreen in the room... And I have an external monitor cable.

I plug my cable into the back of my Dell Latitude D620 running XP SP3, and into the back of the LG. As an external monitor, it's groovy.

But when I play a DVD, I get the following results:

- In WMP 11, I get sound but no PICTURE.

- In PowerDVD, nothing happens. I hit "Resume Movie" and I get a frozen machine.

- In InterVideo Win DVD, I get a picture and sound, but very, very choppy. Like one frame every two or three seconds.

I have the NVDIA Quadro NVS 110M Display Adapter, which seems to be fine.

This has happened with several different DVDs. If I unplug the monitor cable and reboot, all three software packages (WMP, PowerDVD, and InterVideo) run absolutely fine.

I don't have access to a projector right now, but I WAS able to play DVDs on this laptop through a projector several weeks ago.

Any help would be very cool.

Thanks,Are you extending your desktop, or are you mirroring the projection? Mirroring will take a lot of stress off the adapter and improve performance.

Also, what kind of cable are you using? VGA? DVI? HDMI?

Try using Media Player Classic to play the movies. It's a lot better than most of those programs in my opinion. Can you at least see anything on the TV or projector without running any of the DVD programs? (aka, can you see your desktop on the TV?)Sorry - should have mentioned I'm mirroring (I've found extending the desktop causes more problems than it's worth).

It's a basic monitor cable - is that DVI? Fourteen pins - five across the top, three-blank-one in middle, five across bottom.

As a monitor, it's working perfectly. When I run WMP, I get (on both the laptop and the LG) basic WMP controls, just no picture (not even the Visualizer). But I get my title menu, drop-down menus, etc. And the DISC plays - the timer advances, and I get sound.

I downloaded Media Player Classic, and that works! I noticed if I'm in Dual Monitor mode, I get a weird interference when I play video - faint vertical lines scrolling quickly. But if I turn off my laptop monitor and only use the teevee, I'm golden.

Thanks! Now I have to decide on hotel entertainment tonight - Jack Bauer or James Bond???!?!Actually that would be a VGA cable.

I'm glad you're at a point that works. Sound like you don't have the worlds greatest video adapter in that thing. Oh well.

As for your last question? DEFINITELY BAUER! You know, I THOUGHT it was VGA, but Google Images insisted otherwise.

As it turns out, I didn't get done working in time to see Bauer, too late after dinner to start a Bond (you can't start and not finish)... So I'm slowly getting CAUGHT up on "Chuck" and "BSG"... Downloaded Bauer (shhhhhh!) and will watch tomorrow night.

Yeah, still doesn't explain WHY it doesn't work... But as we (OK, I) say in the troubleshootin' biz, if you get the results you want, and it doesn't hurt nothin', why worry?

I have a Dell desktop which I used until yesterday it only stops during booting with only F2 for setup and F12 another thing which I don't remember. However when I press F2 it says.. entring setup then TAKES the whole nite to enter but didn't. I restart it this morning and same message appears. It doesn't go beyond that screen. Please help meYou need to speak a bit like... English my friend. Your topic is a pain to read.
Sorry I dont mean to be rude but it's hard to understand what you want!!Ok after reading this a few times you seem to have an OS (operating SYSTEM) problem. Can you not start Windows at all?It is freezing at the POST screen.

try tapping f2 repeatedly as soon as you switch the machine on. if it ENTERS BIOS and is responsive, than you have hardware components to blame.Sorry bout the English.. well.. When I press the start button on the System Unit there appears the first screen on the monitor sayin "INVALID CONFIGURATION." I trun it off then on again then these options appears Press F2 for setup and F12 for Boot Menu. So when I press F2 it says Entering Setup and there.. it stops and took the whole nite to enter but didn't. So, what should I do?what kind of keyboard are you using? if it is a USB keyboard, try getting a PS/2 keyboard to bypass the BIOSIt is not a USB keyboard. Another thing, the green light on the front turns orange as I turn the electric on!! When I press the start button it never starts.Try opening the machine, and disconnecting the hard drives (NOT from the board, just the drives, remembering where each connection was, as well as floppy and CD drives, and try again.

It may be a faulty/failing Hard Drive or faulty floppy drive causing it to hangDid it but still hang with a peeping sound that peeps frequentlyDo you have any stuck keys? tried another keyboard? You could also try replacing the CMOS battery.Still hang and cannot enter setupFrequent beeping sound......MAYBE reseat memory or swap in good memory , possible overheating problem, is the processor fan working, is the heatsink flush to CPU and the MB ?.... is everything clean inside the case.

Hi I have a Dell 1901FP monitor with some USB PORTS on the SIDE that do not seem to work. I think I NEED a cable from the monitor to the PC to enable the hub to work. Does anyone know what it is I need? Cheers..Yep you need a cable to go from the monitor to PC. One should have come with the monitor.

I BELIEVE the below link will show you exactly what you need.

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/Cables/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=947174-4Thank you not a PROBLEM.

Everytime i turn on my computer, a window pops up and it says:

The instruction at "0x00401082" referenced memory at "0x00000000". The memory COULD not be "written".

Click on OK to terminate the program
Click on CANCEL to debug the program

I know that this question was ASKED before, but my problem is a little bit different. If i press OK, then the window disappears and the login window doesn't appear, but if i press CANCEL, the same thing happens, and i can't login. If i just press the X in the corner to cancel it, once again, the login window doesn't appear and i'm just stuck with the mouse pointer and a blue screen. i've tried ctrl+alt+dlt, but it doesn't work. i've also restarted many, many times. What can i do if i can't even login?This is important. Does the error say Isass.exe (first letter is capital "i), or lsass.exe (first letter is lower case "L")?
First one is a trojan, the second one is a legit Windows file.i THINK it's a lower case "L" (i hope it's a lower case "L"), but could you give me both ways to deal with the problem?Let's assume, it's lower case "L".
Did you try to boot into Safe Mode?
Do you have Windows CD?i should have the Windows CD, but i have no idea what Safe Mode is. sorry When your computer starts, keep tapping F8 key, until menu appears:

Select Safe Mode. Be patient. It may take a while for Windows to load.
When done, you should see "Safe Mode" in all 4 corners of your screen.approximately how long do i have to keep tapping for the menu to pop up, and do i TAP while the Application Error window is up, or do i have to cancel it first?Turn computer off. When you push power button to turn it on, start tapping, unless the error pops up right away.keep going some one plz help me out............ Please, start your own topic, and state your problem.

Hi,

My PC desktop is behaving very oddly. It re-starts itself immediately as soon as it is shut down. As far as i can recall, i have not installed any other new softwares onto it. At the moment, the only way to ensure it does not get re-started is to unplug the power cable from it. I did search this on google and found some people believe it might be to do with the power supply failure or CMOS battery. However, a few minutes later after disconnecting the power cord from the PC, I decided to plug it back to the PC and waited to see if it starts itself or not. The answer is no. It stayed off. My question is whether this symptom is related to the power supply or something else.

Thank you in advance When was the last time you blew the dust out with a can of compressed air?For me i think it is a power supply failure. This happens once in one of our computer when the computer shutdowns it just restarts instead of shutting down. It just restarts nonstop, so what i did is clean the inside and change the power supply, no restart. Try this first hope it helps.This MAY sound like a silly question but I am going to ask any way.

When you go to shutdown the comp are you sure that "Shutdown" is selected in the dropdown box and not restart?Are you asking me or him?Quote from: KingPincer on April 27, 2009, 09:43:10 AM

Are you asking me or him?

Taydan,

WATCH these VIDEOS,

CHAPTER 6 and 15


http://www.professormesser.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=43

Hello.

Have been looking around the internet and i forums to find some help to my question.
I have a Intel Core 2 DUO E6600 2.4GHz on a Asus P5W DH DELUXE motherboard. And they are both supposed to support EIST.
Have read that as LONG as you run Windows Vista and have power plan "Power saver" selected. Vista would automatically adjust the CPU speed according to the CPU load.

I have something similar on my laptop.
It runs Windows XP and I use the program SpeedSwitchXP. That program adjust the CPU speed according to the CPU load.
When my laptop is idle, it can lower the CPU speed to around 50MHz. And the CPU is a 2000MHz.
This result in that I save a lot of battery and there is less heat.

So I want the CPU on my stationary computer to do the same. Because it generates a lot of heat and noice when it is idle or I'm just surfing the internet..
Isn't there anyone out there that could help me? Since it looks like that Vista can't manage this.. isn't there something I could do to make it like this?

Cheers!

Btw: I'm using Vista Business x64If EIST isn't enough for you, try RMClock.
I used to use it on my laptop and it was great, it does take some setting up but it's worth it in the end.
Hope this helps.Quote from: Calum on April 24, 2009, 04:43:08 AM

If EIST isn't enough for you, try RMClock.
I used to use it on my laptop and it was great, it does take some setting up but it's worth it in the end.
Hope this helps.

Sorry, seems I read your post wrong, I didn't realise you mean EIST wasn't working at all.
Anyway, RMClock does a better job, if you're concerned about heat.
It should work on most computers, and once you've got it set up it's fully automatic.
It's just a matter of spending some time adjusting the steps for it to change speeds, adjusting voltages, etc.
There are some better guides out there than I could write about how to use it, so if you're stuck there is help available.

You may have to enable it in your BIOS

ASUS boards normally have a little setting called Q-FAN, which changes fan speeds at different temperatures.
I have an ASUS P5KPL-CM, and mine utilized EIST as soon as I set it up.

Looking at the ASUS site...your board seems to have a similar item called AI Cool

Ill take a squiz through your motherboard manual to ry and find out where in the BIOS you can enable it.

The 'AI quiet' feature can be found on the Hardware Monitor page on the Power Tab
Also on this page, are your Q-FAN settings

Page 4-35 in your user guide

Sorry, seems I read your post wrong, I didn't realise you mean EIST wasn't working at all.
Anyway, RMClock does a better job, if you're concerned about heat.
It should work on most computers, and once you've got it set up it's fully automatic.
It's just a matter of spending some time adjusting the steps for it to change speeds, adjusting voltages, etc.
There are some better guides out there than I could write about how to use it, so if you're stuck there is help available.

Wait wait, what QUESTION?Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on May 03, 2009, 06:16:51 AM

As for running games, the two monitors have different resolutions, and they do change according to the game. For example, if the game runs in 800x600, both monitors will forcefully go to 800x600.

kind of but that is comepletly differnt. You still didnt say and also would I still be able to use a kvm switch with it?

Now, hopefully you read that rant. I'll answer your question now:
I don't know.

I want to know about Intel Quad Core & Core 2 Quad Processors. I'm little bit confuse about this TWO. What is the different between this two? What is the latest technology from these Technologies. same about Core 2 duo & Dual core.

I really appreciate if you will send me the details about these processors by mail. i have read few articles but i couldn't understand what is the different in these processor. and what is the latest.

---Suranga----Watch these videos....

http://www.professormesser.com/component/content/article/25-a-plus-videos/70-processors-and-cpusQuote from: Suranga on May 02, 2009, 11:20:43 PM

I want to know about Intel Quad Core & Core 2 Quad Processors. I'm little bit confuse about this two. What is the different between this two? What is the latest technology from these Technologies. same about Core 2 duo & Dual core.

I really appreciate if you will send me the details about these processors by mail. i have read few articles but i couldn't understand what is the different in these processor. and what is the latest.

---Suranga----

Hi what software is the best to USE to test everytihing on your system to make sure that its running at full suffisioncy?I believe you mean efficiency, but you can try SpeedFan or Everest(give you fan temps, cpu temp, hard drive temp, etc.)First of all make full use of the software you hvae.
What is you objective?

I know that sounds like a dumb question, but what you intend to do makes a difference. If you want to do a slide show, the performance requirements are low and there is little need to improve performance.

But if you objective is to see how fast the computer can perform a complex math function, the requirements are different.

Also, with modern technology there is a relationship between speed and the use of power. More speed means more power. Nut if the speed was not needed to perform a task inside a time frame, then the efficiency is said to be lower because the extra use of power was not needed.


when play a game the pc lags extremely alot
ive played this game on EXACT same system 4 months ago and everything was running smoothly
havent changed anythin on the systemOK. Now we know hat you want.
Most graphics CARDS are work in such a way that when they get too hot the performance begins to slow down. I don't know for sure why. But it is something you can see with you own eyes.
Try cleaning out all the dust in your computer. Make sure all the fans run GOOD. When PLAYING a game discount anything you do not need. Like a printer or scanner, web cam and so on.

There are special utility programs that will show how many frames per second your machine updates the graphic display. Higher frame rate means smooth and fast movements. This is mostly a function of Graphics, CPU clock and available memory. Hard drive speed and CD-ROM speed are less important.Yea, but still Speedfan & Everest atleast give you the temps(don't know about graphics cards but they may show up on there)You did ask for a software program.
But if cooling is an issue, you will need to go beyond just software
that tells you know the system is too hot.
On this forum you can search the word "cooling' (without quotes) and find lots of helpful info.

I'm WAY outa the loop these days as too what is good and what isn't, and what PRICES are good and what aren't.

That being said, I have a tower case, fans, nice hard drive, and a nice DVD drive that have been collecting dust for 5 years with a 500 watt power supply waiting to be finished.

I'd like to know what is the best CPU, Motherboard, GCU, and about 4 gigs of ram combo that I can get for this setup keeping in mind that I have about 300 to 400 dollars to spend on all 4 components.

Any suggestions would be HUGELY appreciated. I've tried to troll through information to get up to speed again but I'm soooo FAR behind what is going on in the computer component world atm, that I just figure I'll ask for suggestions from those who know.
On a limited budget, the first question is about the OS.
Getting the a 64 bit and 32 bit system can take a lot of your money.
If you are not going 64 bit, not much point in going with 4 GB.
And if your favorite programs are only 32 bit, there is not much advantage to getting a 64 bit CPU. Unless you someday are going to be rich again.See, I'm already a little lost. Just a little though, the real thing I don't know is how to know if you need or use a 64 bit system.

My laptop that I'm using now using Vista and I BELIEVE is a 64 bit system. My other laptop that my WIFE uses is XP and I am positive it is a 32 bit.

The thing I do most on my computers is play World of Warcraft, and I'm pretty sure it's designed for 32 bit. I do NOT know however if playing it or other games like it using a 64 bit system is better. That's why I don't understand the need for the difference.

That all being said, ALL my computers lately have slowed WAY down, and I suspect it's from Windows UPDATES. I've cleaned fans, use cooling pads, cleared cache, even reinstalled OS's and still after all the updates it's like the computers just old and lost it's mind.

I agree with Patio, you may have had a succession of bad drives.Why don't you try those drives on another computer? I'll bet you that a local computer repair store could try them out for free. Or the place you bought them from.Ill try that TOMORROW. Ill have to do it at a friends house. Ill update my post when Im done.Okay, Ive been busy, but Im Back. I tried it on a friends computer, and IT WORKED! I BURNED a couple of discs, and without a PROBLEM. Why wont it work in my pc? Is it possible that my motherboard is going bad?If you tried a brand new IDE cable and it does not work and you have UNINSTALLED the IDE channel in Device Manager as Broni suggested above then YES that IDE channel is dead...
No reason to give up on the board however...you can get a PCI/IDE addon card that will add up to 4 more IDE slots.Thanks Patio!! I will try that.

The problem is that my computer's motherboard is changed 3 TIMES .I want to know what is the problem in my laptop?How could we POSSIBLY know, with practically no details included in your post? Quote from: Anubha on April 29, 2009, 06:22:49 AM

The problem is that my computer's motherboard is changed 3 times .I want to know what is the problem in my laptop?

What problems have you had, in the past?

Not supplying enough info.....other than that...none.

My laptop is of Compaq presarioV3000 notebook,my main supply is 110,i m from northern India,
with windows XP 2000,1GB RAM,80GB Hard disk

I have a power supply here where the Max. output wattage is 300W.

+5V 30 Amps (Min. 1.5 Amps)

+12V 15 Amps (Min. .8 Amps)

+3.3v 20 Amps (Min. .5 Amps)

-5v .5 Amps (Min. 0 Amps)

-12v .5 Amps (Min. 0 Amps)

+5v SB 2 Amps (Min. 0 Amps)

I am familiar with WATTS law, but how all this adds up to 300W is beyond me........anyone want to throw me a bone Thanks300w is the max which the psu is rated at on all rails. If each rail was fully loaded (i.e. drawing max amp rating) then the psu would be well overloaded.

The following is quoted from this site.

Quote

A common way to reach the power figure for PC PSUs is by adding the power available on each rail, which will not give a true power figure. This means that you cannot USE the PSU maximum rating on one rail, but only as a total. Therefore you can overload a PSU on one rail without having to use the maximum rated power.

I saved the file to a blank cd, and it does not run.The downloaded file is of .iso TYPE, so you can't simply copy the file to a CD.

Download, and install free Imgburn: http://www.imgburn.com/index.php?act=download
Using Imgburn, BURN downloaded dft32_v415_b01.iso file to a CD.
Boot to the CD...let it finish loading.
Hey BRONI I am really appreciating all of your help. I ran the bootable cd and the only thing that i seen wron on the test was Security Mode: Frozen. Any idea what to do next?It looks to me like some security is set there.
If the hard drive is secured, then fresh Windows install should solve the problem, if BIOS is secured, then you're DONE. No way around.Not even if I erase the harddrive?This is what I'm SAYING. If you have some Windows CD, you can try to boot from it, and you'll see, if it'll let you. Trying is free

Hi.

I just received a new computer. I set everything up but I've got no sound. When I go to test sound comes out, but when I go to play a .wma or a .mp3 file I get nothing. Also no sound when playing video.

I'm running Windows Vista OS
the PC is a Gateway DX4800-05e

Thank you in advance to anyone that helps!

KellyLets see...

When you say test, do you mean you can go into the sound manager, and hear sound from the speakers (beeps or whatever)? What about the start up music? Does that play too?

First, check to see it all of your audio levels are on. Right click the speaker icon on your task bar and click "Open volume control." Turn up the master volume, wave, and whatever ELSE you have and see if that works.

You might have to install the sound DRIVER, but i think you wouldn't need to since the test sounds work. What are the tests sounds you're using?Quote

I just received a new computer

Hi,
Sorry if this has been discussed somewhere else I have searched and browsed but haven't FOUND an answer yet and I didn't know which place to post this so I'll start here.
My problem is that recently after playing videos and audio files - including .avi, .mpeg and .flv as well as audio files such as .mp3 - the image and sound will start to freeze for a second and then continue and a few minutes later it will happen again and then start to increase in frequency until the image freezes completely or in the case of mp3 it will sound like a skipping cd.
I have this problem when playing files if I use VLC, WINDOWS media player, Media player classic or the asustek asusdvd player so I don't think it's a particular software problem, none of these players gives me any kind of error warnings.
I have tried uninstalling and installing the latest versions of the necessary codecs. I also thought that there maybe a memory issue but I don't know much about that so the most I have been able to do is empty some space on the hard drive and I defrag regularly. I have also updated all my drivers that I can.
Any advice would be much appreciated.

Pre installed O/S
Windows XP
Professional
Version 2002
SP3

ASUS A6Km
AMD Turion 64 mobile
1.80 GHz, 1.00 GB RAM

AVG anti-virus free edition



did the computer recently get this problem? or has this computer always had this problem?How much free space on that HDD ? ?
When's the last time you ran diskclean and defrag ? ?

Are these files all on the HDD ?
Do music CD's do the same thing ? ?

If so check to see if the vid card fan is operating properly...

EDIT: Oooops laptop...clean all fan ports out.Also, check to see your hard drive is not running in PIO mode, as this causes the CPU to handle I/O requests, and floods the CPU Bus, causing stuttering.

http://forum.digital-digest.com/showthread.php?t=61905Quote from: tesla on April 28, 2009, 06:12:37 AM

did the computer recently get this problem? or has this computer always had this problem?

How much free space on that HDD ? ?
When's the last time you ran diskclean and defrag ? ?

Are these files all on the HDD ?
Do music CD's do the same thing ? ?

If so check to see if the vid card fan is operating properly...

EDIT: Oooops laptop...clean all fan ports out.

Also, check to see your hard drive is not running in PIO mode, as this causes the CPU to handle I/O requests, and floods the CPU Bus, causing stuttering.

http://forum.digital-digest.com/showthread.php?t=61905

:'(Was in the MIDDLE of printing a 9 page job, and printer quit in the middle of the 7th. Only error log I could find on printing was as FOLLOWS: .... failed to print on printer Canon Bubble Jet BJC 2000-Data type: NTEMF 1.008. Size of spool in bytes: 22999092. Number of bytes printed: 14610316. Total number of pages in document: 9. Number of pages printed: 1 (it printed 6 and quit at the end of the 7th). win 32 error code returned by the print PROCESSOR: 122(0x7a). Have tried the trouble shooting INFO (turning off comp, unplugging, etc). Don't have disk that printer was installed with. Won't print anything. HelpDrivers are available here.

http://www.canon.com.au/products/printers/colour_bj_printers/bjc2000sp_drivers.aspx

I just recently purchased a refurbished Compaq equipped with an AMD Athlon 64x2 4200+ (2.2ghz, 2x 512kb L2-cache, Brisbane) and I WANTED a general OPINION on how its performance might compare with an Intel Core 2 Duo T5470 (1.6ghz, 2MB L2-cache, 800mhz FSB, Merom) that is on a laptop I currently use. I haven't had an AMD processor before, basically been USING Intel for all my previous machines.

Will I get the same sort of performance (multi-tasking, office/internet, light video/audio encoding, and light gaming) with the older AMD compared to newer mobile C2D, or will there be a noticeable difference in favor of the C2D?

I understand the differences in clock speed (and possibly the sizes of the L2-caches), but I also KNOW that each company utilizes difference CPU architectures, so direct comparisons between the two aren't that easy.Quote from: shadou on April 29, 2009, 10:29:10 AM

I understand the differences in clock speed (and possibly the sizes of the L2-caches), but I also know that each company utilizes difference CPU architectures, so direct comparisons between the two aren't that easy.

Hello, I need help! I have windows PX and one of my usb port shows a power surge. I went into the device manager and uninstall all my usb including the root hub. as I am uninstalling it the computer was reading and finding before I could reboot. One CAME up as a power surge and said I should remove and reset. Oh I have I have seven usb ports and three devices plug in. When I go to plug in my wireless stick in the top port. My computer freezes and SHUTS down. IS THERE ANY HELP OUT! thank you ahead of time. What happens when you plug it in on its own?

Do all USB devices plugged into this port cause surges?

If so...stop USING it. a shorting USB port can bring down the whole motherboard.I agree with Kurtiskain, dont use it, it will alot CHEAPER to replace a faulty usb device than to replace a motherboard. Good luckI agree with you I stopped using it. I just don't understand why just that one port shows a power surge and not the others. I was plugging my linksys wireless stick into it. The port is locate on the top. I only have a storage device, mouse usb devices and they are plugged in the back. So I been plugging the linlsys in the back with no problem. Maybe I should ask this QUESTION what is causing that port even when I don't have any devise plugged into it and go to device manager and uninstall. Why does the computer keeps telling me a Power purge for that one port and can this be fixed? I tried a rest that doesn't work. Must I remove the port altogether or just never use the port again?This generally happens when the device you plug in, asks for more current than is readily available, eg 250mA may be available, it may ask for 500mA, resulting in the computer trying to fix it by quickly increasing it, causing a surge.

The internal connectors that connect to the motherboard may be loose, faulty or (somehow) a connector may have come off.Thanks your responses have been very helpful.

My PF usage continually, gradually increases over TIME until my computer slows down and freezes up. How do I CORRECT it? Thanks!What's PF ?Maybe Page File usage...I would GUESS.

does`any ONE know if the canon lidi 35 scanner draws power when left with the USB cable plugged in, there is no on/off switchIf you meant the LiDE 35, it looks like that's a "YES".

Quote from: Canon Web Site

the scanner draws all power required from a USB 2.0 Hi-Speed interface.

Power supply
Powered by USB port

Power consumption
2.5W Operation power
1.5W STANDBY power

I could not PRINT for about a month and MINE WOULD be okay.

So I put together a desktop for the first time this evening. Read all the instructions very carefully and everything, but now that I'm trying to start the computer up it's not working correctly. The BIOS loads up (although not on a reboot, only after being powered off) it will load the OS (off of my old HDD from my previous setup) however once the OS loads up the computer reboots w/o any warning or anything. I'm thinking this might be caused by one of the reused parts I'm using since I had similar problems with my last desktop before it completely died. Im reusing: Geforce 7900GS KO and the HDD & DVD-R/RW that came with my old desktop. I can safely assume that it is not the GPU, as I took that out completely and it was still doing the same thing.

I also tried booting from DISK to try and INSTALL a fresh copy of windows on my new HDD however once it got past the "Windows is loading files" black screen, the wallpaper would pop up, but the installer never would, both with a new Win7 disk and a Vista disk I had previously used. I was able to run a Boot Disk utility successfully, and I checked several of the components with the diagnostic tools on there, all of which passed.

Here are the specs:
Pentium E5200
Gigabyte GA-G31M-ES2L (rev1.1)
OCZ Reaper HPC Edition 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR2 800
Antec Earthwatts 430W
WD Caviar 320GB (WDC3200AAJS)
WD 200GB IDE (WD2000BB-22GUC0)
IDE DVD-R/RW (from old desktop, not sure which model)
EVGA GeForce 7900GS KO

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Putting together a PC can be a lot of fun. You are almost there.
I have built many PCs over the years. There is one thing I notice. Your are putting some stress on the power supply. Used Hard Drives and CD-ROM drives tend to draw more power as the get older. And a hungry graphics card.

You should start a fresh install of you Vista system with a good Hard Drive and a good CD-ROM. Use the built-in Graphics card. No USB devices.

Once you have a smooth, clean install, start adding hardware.

You have to start with a neat clean install of Vista. If anything goes wrong, start over again. Format the drive. No OVERCLOCKING. No extra hardware. You want a clean install right from the start.Thank you for the advice. Strangely enough after posting here, I ran some more diagnostic tests and then I noticed that the BIOS was loading fully after a reboot for the first time (No idea why) so I thought I'd try running the Windows 7 disc again and it worked. It loaded at a snail's pace at the beginning but eventually picked up, and now here I am posting on my new desktop. Everything seems to be working fine now.
The reason it would reboot:

You changed mother boards.

When you change mobos, the old chipset drivers remain.

Windows TRIES to load them and "Shazam"....Blue Screen Of Death.

When you re-run the Windows disk, it will re-detect and install the appropriate drivers.

Top Three Good All-in-one Printers.
As reported recently in PCWorld.
Canon Pixma MX700
HP Photosmart C6380 All-in-one
Epson Workforce 600

This is NOT an excat copy of the top three in PCWorld.
I made a change in favor of the Epsom in third place.
http://www.pcworld.com/article/123861/top_10_inkjet_multifunction_printers.html

Comments welcome.


I voted None but I really have no clue. As I said in another thread today, I bought a Brother MFC series MFC-790CW about 2 months ago and have found it to a nice unit so far. Got mine for $109 with free shipping. It's my first AIO (All-in-One) printer and I like it.

I must say I find the selection, features, and price of these AIO units today quite amazing. I mean, wow, a single unit that functions as a printer, scanner, copier, fax, has a CAMERA card reader built-in, also has phone with answering machine built-in, and can be connected by USB or networked via a router or wireless (with a wireless router), for $109! GRANTED, that's was special SALE price but, still, the AIO units on the market now seem like a smart acquisition, when compare the cost to buying separate units for printer, scanner, etc., as was the usually the case not too many YEARS ago, and those individual components may have cost as much or more than a single AIO costs now.I'd research what replacement cartridges cost for each model and go from there...Quote from: patio on April 29, 2009, 01:14:41 PM

I'd research what replacement cartridges cost for each model and go from there...

Im building a NEW PC and I was wondering if:


Would a 1220 watt power supply (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817121040)


Run 2x Video CARDS with a minimum requirement of 650 watts? (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150349)


Thanks for the help doodas!

If anyone would like a COMPLETE list of what im using to BUILD this PC say so and ill link it.Go ahead and post the entire specs of the PC so the guys can compare and see exactly what kind of power supply you need.

I need a diagram of how to reconnect the WIRING plugs from a bestec 100-127v 200-240v power supply to the tower of a compaq presario sr1630nx. Any HELP is much appreciated.
Do just need the motherboard diagram?Look at this
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00496280&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=1122478&lang=enNo i need to know where each SET of wires from the power supply connects inside the towerPick your choice here;

http://www.google.com/search?q=install+poweer+supply&rls=com.microsoft:en-ca:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GGLL_en

I have an ASUS P5N-E SLI mobo and the Q6600 G0 stepping

I have looked around on the internet for GUIDES on how to overclock it.
One advised that I should change the settings to 7X475 as he said a higher FSB is better than a high multiplier.

I tried this in my BIOS and it wouldnt get past POST so i ramped it down to 7X470 and so on untill i got to 7X420 ( i jumped a few after getting frustrated)
I then set it to the default FSB of 267 and a multiplier of 7 just so i could boot and maybe adjust the FSB in Nvidia's NTUNE software.

I tried adjusting it in the program but i got a blue screen immediately.

I then looked around and saw a 2nd guide, this time telling me to keep it at a multiplier of 9 and set the FSB at 333 to start with giving a frequency of 2.99GHz.

I immediately got the blue screen again (in the software)

Am i doing something wrong?
I know there are many variables that I may not be taking into account.

Oh and I'm using 4Gb of DDR2 800 PC2 6400 RAM

A higher FSB at the same clock speed will not be any faster, just more difficult to achieve.
By that I mean 4x800 or 8x400 will give the same performance, but 4x800 is not achievable on any known board.

That aside, brush up on your BIOS settings, make sure you know what absolutely everything that has bearing MEANS. Also learn the max SAFE voltages of your Northbridge, CPU, RAM etc, and the max. temps for your components.

This would be my method of overclocking.
First, set your CPU and RAM to stock speeds. Run Orthos for at least 10 hours to make sure it's stable, and to CHECK the temperatures (it should stay under 70C).
Of it passes, you're ready to start overclocking.
Leave the multiplier at 9, have the RAM at a divider (also known as multiplier or ratio) of 1:1 (at stock speeds, your RAM should be at 533Mhz using this) and increase the FSB slowly. 10MHz at a time is fairly reasonable. Then, run Orthos on Blend for a while. If it's stable for, say, half an hour, up the FSB some more.
When it errors out, reboot and start playing with voltages. You'll need more VCore, possibly as you push further you may need some more voltage on the VTT and Northbridge. RAM shouldn't need more than the rated voltage. The way in which these are named will differ between boards, this is just a rough guideline.
Keep going until either the core voltage is too high (1.5V is an absolute maximum in my opinion, you could probably go higher), your temps are too high, or you're satisfied.
Run Orthos for 10+ hours. If it fails, you'll have to lower the clock speeds, and try again.

Do not use any software to overclock, you're asking for trouble.

Good luck.And MAKE SURE to use ASUS' built in BIOS backup utility at each step in the process...
BTW i wouldn't trust NTune to tweak any of these settings...the options are all there in the ASUS BIOS utility...

I'm going to SCHOOL for IT. One project was to remove CPU check on cooling & CPU manufacturer. When I replaced it, the computer would not boot. Fans and lights worked but hit power on nothing no beeps no any thing. Hi

First U Chek the SMPS. If its working are not if its ok then remove the processor and put back its PLACE. Observe the connections if cpu fan is rotate cheking for hdd cables.
do this alla oprations.

Are you sure that you have the power switch lead on the right header?

Do you have the moterboard manual?

What is the model of the board?Were you rough at all taking it off?

eg tools SLIP, ect?

Unfortunately, some boards don't like you taking off and reapplying the heatsink and fan more than a few times.what no no and no noob's? Take the cpu back out there what you call zif zero insertion force. Meaning that there is little force needed to put it in. Its possible that there is a pin bent and or BROKE check for that I have had alot of problems with people doing that and it ened up like this.

I recently picked up a computer for a friend who said it wouldn't boot. Its an HP desktop with Windows XP its about 6 years old I believe. When I got it hooked it up it would turn on but would not boot to desktop. Long story short did a system restore and unhooked the computer. Like 2 weeks later I take it back to my friend HOOK everything up and I have a problem. No power to any usb ports, p2 connectors, and no power to the monitor. The light on the monitor will turn green when you turn the computer on and then the light will turn YELLOW like the computer was on standby. The only device that im getting to work is the dvd drive it will OPEN and close. So i don't know if the system is booting up or not. The computer will turn on and the fan on the mother board will turn on. Well it's easier to swap in a known good PS than CHANGE the motherboard......if the PS is 6 years old than it's seen it's BEST days.
Any beeps at startup?...reseat your ram, video card.....any bulging or leaking capacitors....they're the ones with the + on top......unfortunately the symptoms can also point to MB failure....by any chance would you be able to tell me how do you reset your ram? Patolndlx3,

You need to start your on topic.

hi guys...i have a dell desktop pc and a dell laptop both connected via kvm...the problem is that...when i use the desktop pc..for instance am using VISUAL studio...when i type..all of a sudden..some random key will keep repeating itself...it COULD be space BAR or the letter "f" or the backspace key...its all random..this happens whenever am connected through the kvm switch..may it be my laptop or desktop..this thing happens..i dont use the laptops keyboard when its connected to the kvm. i use the desktop keyboard and mouse the whole time.. however..when am not at work but at home..working...there is no problem with the laptop what so ever...i can keep on typing in visual studio and there is no problem what so ever..PLS HELP..its very FRUSTRATING..!!..thanks ppl...Are you sure it is a problem with the kvm switch and not the keyboard?are you sure that its secure? I had it were I no mouse cause of that.well guys...i mean...if the kvm isnt there...and am at home..i have no problem using the laptops keyboard...but when its attached to the kvm...doesnt matter which keyboard i use (desktop or laptop) the problem persists no matter what...thats y i figured that it was the kvm switch...what do you guys think i should do??why didnt I see this..... I have two of them.... course there is going to be its made to use one keyboard and miceDisable the laptop keyboard...silverbullet7808,Is your KVM switch a PS2 unit or a usb? Have you TRIED the kVM switch on 2 other computers? Have you tried the KVM switch on 2 desktop computers?truenorth It wont work if theres more then one keyboard.....

On my new 17" LCD Monitor i have a DVI & VGA connection and the same goes for my Graphics card does this mean that i can use 2 monitors - one DVI and one VGA or would they conflict with each other, just a thought The Digital Visual Interface (DVI) is a video interface standard designed to maximize the visual quality of digital display devices such as flat panel LCD COMPUTER displays and digital projectors. It was developed by an industry consortium, the Digital Display Working Group (DDWG). It is designed for carrying uncompressed digital video data to a display. It is partially compatible with the High-Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI) standard in digital mode (DVI-D), and VGA in analog mode (DVI-A).


So what every you WANT really one or the other...DVI is better than VGA.I have two LCD monitors (both 19", same brand, Viewsonic, almost same model), one connected to DVI PORT, one to VGA port of the very same video card, and I don't see any VISIBLE quality difference.You can only use 2 monitors if the vid card supports it and has 2 output connectors.If he does not have two connection points then why would he ask?Perhaps he thought that the other port was an adapter. Thanks for that Geek.... not sure what to say. Thanks for chirping up though really helped. Thank you all for you reply's - i now understand that the DVI connection gives you better quality, i just wondered as there are two connections the DVI and the VGA if it is possible to connect another monitor to say the DVI as i already have this one connected to the VGA port. Would this cause a conflict between both monitors or not.Read over post #2 by Broni.
He does it and he says it works fine with two monitors.
Most of the quality cards today have dual outputs.
Try it. You will like it.Also....just to add to the proof of the situation...I run 2 17" CRTs off a x700 at the moment, low end card, one on the VGA, one on the DVI with a dongle, so your second monitor doesn't have to have a DVI ending Quote from: Kurtiskain on May 01, 2009, 04:59:30 AM

one on the DVI with a dongle, ...

i have the philips wireless keyboard, it is working but some of the keys along the TOP,not normally on a keyboard, i do not know what they do, i have SEARCH all over the web, still struggling, i have no box or manual, i suppose the obvious is press these and see what happens. still FRUSTRATING there is nothing on the internet to view or download info for this keyboard Try another keyboard, preferably a PS/2 or USB keyboard.thanks for your reply, i like this wireless keyboard but some of the keys i do not understandEither the wireless keyboard is broken, the wireless reception is not strong enough, or there is interference from another wireless device.Please do not PM me for help. Keep everything on the public forums.

Quote

it works SUPER, but some of the keys along the top i do not understand, i have looked all over the web for instructions

no box or manual

I got a new computer less than 2 months ago (Dell Inspiron 530s, running VISTA), and a few weeks later I experienced a problem with sound/playing music. When trying to play mp3 files on my player (MediaMonkey and J River) the songs were UNABLE to play. At the same time, I couldn't hear the audio on YouTube video, play streaming music VIA Last.fm, etc. The problem seemed to fix itself, so I considered it a FLUKE and left it at that.

Now the problem is happening again, exactly as before. I ran a DirectX diagnostic and under Sound it says:

"No sound card was found. If one is expected, you should install a sound driver provided by the hardware manufacturer."

Does anyone know what's going on or what I can do to fix it? I tried browsing the Dell forums but it crashes my computer every time.Does device manager REGISTER your onboard sound? Any ! or ? in device manager?

Help.

Screen to PC looks like this:

tinyurl.com/chtfxu

=[

Any help guys.

I have not INSTALLED any hardware or software for over 3 months.

Bluescreen error seems to say, memory parity error too. On that screen you just showed us, did you press Enter? It seems to have a Recommended option already selected, did you press Enter?

If not, have you tried any recovery methods?

What have you tried so far?Hi,

I have followed all the INSTRUCTIONS that came up on screen.

From attempting to get into safemode, to following the recovery PROCESS.

At everystage, I get a bluescreen.

However, because of the multiscreen thingy, I can't read the exact error.

Thanks
AndyHave you tried using any Windows recovery CD's or insert your Windows CD and attempting a recovery from there?

Is there any error messages that you are able to give us?Are you saying a BSOD just pops up on your PC?The example you posted is not a BSOD error message...I think that there are two issues.

The first, is that there are 8 mini versions of the screen showing.
As in the picture.

If I try to boot in recovery, it is unable to fix the problem.

If I try to boot normal, I get the bluescreen memory error.

Thanks,
AndyWe need the BSOD error message...including the gibberish.The multiple copies appearing side by side on the screen may be a resolution mismatch between the monitor and the video driver. Try selecting a different resolution for the screen. Test the ram and/or reseat it because of the parity error.Quote from: Karnac on April 30, 2009, 09:27:47 AM

The multiple copies appearing side by side on the screen may be a resolution mismatch between the monitor and the video driver.

There may be other issues.
What kind of equipment is being used downstairs?
Is this perhaps a hospital with a MRI unit on the first floor?
Are you next to a weather radar installation?
Is this a cookie factory? Microwave ovens?
hospital with a mri a cookie factory? What are you talking about
Quote

hospital with a mri a cookie factory?
What are you talking about

Newly built system. Initial start/boot pushed power button nothing. Pushed again started and everything fine. Computer running/booting well for 3 days but couple of times did the same thing (first push nothing second comes on everything fine). Thought maybe power switch on case was bad, but don't know how to test. Next day tried to turn computer on and got shock at power button (like ESD but not sure), still computer started but then shut down after a couple of seconds. Now computer won't power on w/switch. Swapped power and reset wires to see if it was switch but same thing. Turned PSU switch off, waited and then turned back on. Computer turned on for couple of seconds then turned off. Now when power is applied to PSU computer repeats this but turns off immediatly. Won't stay running. Changed MoBo battery, no change. Cleared CMOS, no change. Tried different (known good) PSU, no change. Removed everything one at a time, still no change. Came to conclusion MoBo fried, but no sure. Got RMA anyway. Decided to try PSU in good computer and experienced same problem!! Now I'm really confused. Got RMA for that too. Anyone have a thought on this? Don't know how to test processor, but REALLY hope it's not that. I'm stumpped... System: NZXT Apollo case, ASUS M2N-SLI AM2 NVIDIA nForce 560 SLI MCP Mobo, AMD Athlon 64 X2 5400+ 2.8GHz Socket AM2 65W Dual-Core Processor, ZEROtherm BTF90 92mm Silent UFO CPU Cooler, G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400), XFX PVT84JUDD3 GeForce 8600GT 256MB 128-bit GDDR3 video card, Antec NeoPower 650W Power Supply, Seagate Barracuda 500GB SATA HDD, Seagate 320GB Ultra ATA100 HDD, Floppy, DVD Multi drive, 120mm fans front, rear and side. Any help would be appreciated! All MBoard standoffs in place ? ?
Did you remember to apply Thermal Paste ? ?

It's rare that 2 PSU's would be bad out of the box but i've seen stranger things with computer's...
Have you tried it with just one stick of RAM ? ? My first thought is that even at 650W you still don't have enough power.Hi Patio. Actually it was only one new PSU. The second one was from my other system and still works good in that computer. What I was saying is I removed the new one in the new system and tried the one out of my old system. It gave me the same results pointing to something other than the PSU. But what stumps me is that I tried the new PSU in my good old system and it experienced the problem in that system too, leading me to believe (possibly) the PSU had a problem that caused a problem in the new MoBo. I also did a nice job of the thermal paste and added new stands and new screws and was careful not to scratch anything. You really have to be careful w/these MoBo. One thing I didn't mention LOL, was that a couple days before we had an electrical outage while I had the system running. I think maybe possibly a surge eventhough I have (I thought) a pretty good surge protector. I'm thinking that when I get this thing back up and running I need a new surge protector and also a good UPS to protect this system. Newegg was good enough to RMA both PIECES (even paid shipping) so in about a week I should find out more. Thanks..

Also to address the issue of the 650 watts not being enough. I ran the advisory tools on Antec's site and also Thermaltech's site and even spec'd additional items that I have yet to add and both suggested 385 watts. That to me seemed LOW but I'm still quite a bit above that. This particular PSU has 3 12v rails at 19A @. The system ran well for a few days. The thing that I don't like about it ..it has an auto voltage detect that I don't trust. Thanks..Oh, also yes I tried a single stick of RAM. I actually tried removing everything one at a time all the way to just the MoBo. still same problem @ time. The 650W is plenty for that machine.
The reason the PSU may not have worked in the other box could be something not hooked up properly or that PSU is dead.
Good to hear newegg is RMA'ing it and we'll see how the new one is.

As i said PSU's dead out of the box from the better maker's are rarer than the 20 dollar specials but not unheard of.
Invest in another surge protector as some of them are only good for one bad hit and are un-reliable after that but a UPS isn't a bad idea either....
Sounds as if you took care assembling everything let's hope they'res a happy ending.Quote from: joefido on April 13, 2008, 05:00:01 PM

Newly built system. Initial start/boot pushed power button nothing. Pushed again started and everything fine. Computer running/booting well for 3 days but couple of times did the same thing (first push nothing second comes on everything fine). Thought maybe power switch on case was bad, but don't know how to test. Next day tried to turn computer on and got shock at power button (like ESD but not sure), still computer started but then shut down after a couple of seconds. Now computer won't power on w/switch. Swapped power and reset wires to see if it was switch but same thing. Turned PSU switch off, waited and then turned back on. Computer turned on for couple of seconds then turned off. Now when power is applied to PSU computer repeats this but turns off immediatly. Won't stay running. Changed MoBo battery, no change. Cleared CMOS, no change. Tried different (known good) PSU, no change. Removed everything one at a time, still no change. Came to conclusion MoBo fried, but no sure. Got RMA anyway. Decided to try PSU in good computer and experienced same problem!! Now I'm really confused. Got RMA for that too. Anyone have a thought on this? Don't know how to test processor, but REALLY hope it's not that. I'm stumpped... System: NZXT Apollo case, ASUS M2N-SLI AM2 NVIDIA nForce 560 SLI MCP Mobo, AMD Athlon 64 X2 5400+ 2.8GHz Socket AM2 65W Dual-Core Processor, ZEROtherm BTF90 92mm Silent UFO CPU Cooler, G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400), XFX PVT84JUDD3 GeForce 8600GT 256MB 128-bit GDDR3 video card, Antec NeoPower 650W Power Supply, Seagate Barracuda 500GB SATA HDD, Seagate 320GB Ultra ATA100 HDD, Floppy, DVD Multi drive, 120mm fans front, rear and side. Any help would be appreciated!

I had this same problem the other night. Ironically I thought it was the motherboard as well but even after exchanging the board I still had the issue were I would turn it on and it would stay on for a split second then it would shut off. As a last resort I tried googling the problem and apparently it's a power consumption issue. Try removing your graphics card and see if it boots up. Mine did so then I knew it was isolated to the graphics card. It has something to do with the card consuming too much power too quickly so the PSU immediately shuts the power off the system. So yea try pulling the graphics card and see if it boots up. If that works then try getting an RMA for your graphics card or get a new one.

Just recently my DVD-RW was working fine when all of a sudden it stopped playing any form of DVD, i can still use it as a CD reading drive but nothing else, it is an Atapi DVD Dual 4XMax. Could this be an internal problem or do you THINK it is on the fritz and i need a new one, all answers gratefully recieved. Thank you for you time in reading this.Many CD/DVD players/burners have different lasers for CD/DVD operations...
Sounds like the DVD one is shot.
If the unit is more than 3 years old replace it......Ah! now i NEVER knew that, which for future ref. is good to know, i thank you for your ADVICE and that is what i shall do - get a replacement.

Hi,i have a Epson dot MATRIX Lq+ii printer.Recently WHENEVER i print a table,the horizontal lines GET printed in a zig zag way but the vertical lines PRINTS okay.So thanks in Advance.Have you read the trouble shooting section of the printer manual?Yap,They havent mentioned anything about the Problem.Thansktobydorji,Assuming that this printer has worked previously with the computer it is currently connected to. Uninstall the printer software(from add/remove programs). Disconnect the printer from the computer. Turn off the computer.Reconnect the printer.Turn on the computer.New hardware found should occur. Reinstall the software for the printer. Goodluck,truenorthThanks comrade True North,I will try it out and let u know.Also, somewhere in the printer's utilities, the might be a setting for print HEAD alignment. Sounds like that might be what the issue is.

I make my Raid 0, and everything is good to go (i think).
I select Boot From Disk to install Windows Vista 64 bit ultimate.
Then, I see the Windows is loading files and the white bar at the bottom of the screen going. The white bar becomes 100% done, and then nothing happens after. It just stays there as a BLANK screen. I waited LIKE 10 minutes, and nothing happened.
Im using Raid 0
128 kb stripe block
fast initialize
writethru cache.
Gigabyte boundary is off

K9A2 Plat motherboard.
Bios version 2.62
If anybody knows wuts WRONG, please tell me Sorry, I do not know the answer.
Have you done search on the support site?
http://support.microsoft.com/
There are special requirements for Raid 0, as you well know.
Here is one of the problems documented.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/958572
They pass the blame to the maker of the RAID drivers.Ok, problem is solved now. I opened my case, and wiggles the wires to makesure they were in tight and it worked .

NOW I HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM! When Windows asks me which to which driver do you want vista to be installed on, my array isnt there. The white menu is completely white, with no OPTIONS on it.

... ?_?Harware RAID is invisble to the operating system. This is normal.

My computer turns off automatically for some reason, im pretty sure that its a problem with cooling, when I had an "Un-geniune" copy of windows 7, it would stay on for longer, now it lasts about 10 minutes. The only physical problem (That I see) is the small back fan had a blade broken off, but is still WORKING. Here are my specs
And this is the case

Use speed fan to find out your system temperatures and post back here.

http://www.almico.com/speedfan440.exe

Home page: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.phpAnyone know what may be causing this?Those temps can't be right? The temperature inside your computer case is 121°C and yet your GRAPHICS CARD is under 50°C? According to speed fan, you only have the CPU fan functional and the computer is literally on fire. If those temps are right then your computer should be hot to touch.

Use System Information for Windows (SIW) to confirm those READINGS. Under hardware/sensors. http://www.gtopala.com/download/siw.exe

Also why is one core of your CPU 100% busy? Were you running any other applications or intensive programs?

(SIW home page:) http://www.gtopala.com/

Hello and thank you for looking at my post.

I have all of a sudden been exposed to my screen flickering. I open up a web browser and go to a site and SHORTLY after the screen starts flickering up and down. ( makes it a bit hard to read stuff)
Not so much the LCD screen flickering but the words inside the open screen, jump up and down. Other windows, the wording jumps from left to right. there doesn't seem to be any particular sequence to it all.
Can someone suggest a method to track this down please?

This machine has Win XP Pro SP3, 1.5 Gig RAM. Celeron CPU 2.8 GHz.

This jumping inside of open windows is not limited to just web browsers IE, F/Fox, Chrome or OPERA so on. It also occurs with Control Panel or Windows Explorer activities.

It makes editing, a real task when I try to rename a file.

I have a few other screens about, I'm going to change over to another one to check the monitor, but I expect that will not change anything.

I have a feeling that this is more internal (I could be wrong of course)

Perhaps a virus or a new program installed might be causing it. This computer only has a normal corded mouse and keyboard. There are no other peripherals added at this time.

Wouldn't you know it... it has settled down all the time I've been writing this. Hmmm?
I use Windows Essentials as my virus software currently, but essentials doesn't show any problems. ( Doesn't mean a great deal really)

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
ImnoGuru.
Remove and re-seat your vid card...
Also re-install the vid card drivers.Consider the monitor cable as a SUSPECT as well. Check for tightness of connections. Walk the cable hand over hand and look for damage or depression in the cable indicating that it was crushed by door, feet, chair, or setting the table on it if the table was moved. If you have the opportunity try borrowing a cable from a friend to see if it fixes it. Just be sure to return it when testing done.Thank you patio and Sn3akyP3t3 for your reply.

Patio, that reminded me that I have had some trouble in the past with this computer. I ended up loading an Intel Extreme Graphics 2 (driver or something) for it.
So what Im going to do is start from the box, external and replace the screen, cable and power supply. Test that and see if there is a change. If there's no change then I'll get to the inside bits.

Sounds LIKE Sn3akyP3t3 lent some stuff and didnt get it back. I dont have that problem with friends not giving stuff back... I dont have any friends.. Hahahaha ... anyway I dont need to borrow any of that sort of stuff, I have a box here somewhere with enough of anything to swap over bits. But a good suggestion thanks.

I just thought that this has only started since I got a new voip modem..
I dont suppose that might have any influence in display.Actually, I'm a clepto. All your base are belong to us. Hi, just an update on this. I changed screens to another lcd and so far the wiggles have stopped.
Im guessing it was the screen malfunctioning.
Maybe a power supply problem causing the fluctuations.

I am going to put the old screen onto another computer to test that theory.

And Sn3akyP3t3, can I have my stuff back...... Pleaaaaseeee!!!

I really have no clue but if I were to INSTALL a 250gb INTERNAL WD SATA into my laptop and USE it to STORE several pictures of mine, would that slow down my pc? Someone told it MIGHT since I have windows 7 on my computer.Almost all laptops have no provision for a 2nd internal hard drive. If it did, it would not slow it down.

Hello everybody,

I was uninstalling O&O Defrag 10 from my PC using Revo uninstaller, because I had recently installed O&O Defrag 11.

Upon rebooting my PC I received the following messages: I don't remember the exact order.

The archive for Iobit 360 appears to be corrupted.

Problem with corrupt files in Windows, use CKDSK.

One of the files containing the system's registry data had to be recovered by use of a log or alternate copy. The recovery was successful.

My system became unstable, and remained so after several reboots, I also lost my internet connection.

I rebooted into safe mode with networking but was still unable to get online. I attempted to use System Restore in regular windows mode, but was unsuccessful. I was able, after several attempts, to use system restore in safe mode, restoring the system to the day before. Upon a reboot the system was still unstable.

Under the circumstances I thought perhaps it would be best to attempt to recover my OS from the system recovery partition. I received the following message when making the first attempt.

NTLDR is missing. Problems extracting NET framework.

Upon starting the OS recovery from the recovery partition I started to receive the following several different times:

Problems extracting files.

I then tried to recover the system using the recovery CD's I had made. Again I kept receiving the message:

Problems extracting files.

The first of 5 recovery CD's was ejected and the PC shut down.

Upon restarting the system it seems as if it was going to start up. The Windows sign came on then I got the following message:

Isass.exe System error. An invalid parameter was passed to a service or function. Then the screen and my mouse pointer froze.

Upon a restart the Windows screen appears then a blue screen (Windows DSKCHK) I think, then nothing further.

I'm unable to progress past this point, and am at the limits of my sparse knowledge.

I would to thank everybody in advance for your time on my behalf, and hope someone can advise me on how to proceed.

Thank you, I await your replies.

Enrico










Well just as two possible situations which might be your problem...

There's a strong possibility that this is a virus, unfortunately. The LSASS process manages user logins, and as such is a common target for infections on PCs running various versions of Windows.

The worm can easily exploit the Windows LSASS vulnerability, which is a buffer overrun that allows remote code execution and enables an attacker to gain full control of the affected system. To propagate, it scans the network for vulnerable systems. When it finds a vulnerable system, this malware sends a specially crafted packet to produce a buffer overflow on LSASS.EXE. This worm can cause LSASS to crash and force Windows to restart.

SASSOR Virus varies but can attack the network, Isass.exe and cause crashes. You might WANT to check for that.

Iobit 360 is security software, but also has a range of system tweaks / clean up tools. These clean up tools might of failed, however they create restore points and the restore should of been stable again.

If it is a virus however, it could also hide in your system restore, so might of recovered itself from there.

Disconnect from the net, use a removal tool.

The other possible answer is the hard drive itself is failing or damaged. If it's slightly chipped inside, after use, creates more and more drive errors. Chkdsk will normally fail or create more issues if this is the case. Solution is a replacement drive.

Good LUCK!Quote

The other possible answer is the hard drive itself is failing or damaged. If it's slightly chipped inside, after use, creates more and more drive errors. Chkdsk will normally fail or create more issues if this is the case. Solution is a replacement drive.

This is what happened. a Virus in LSASS would have absolutely nothing to do with the recovery partition having problems extracting files, or of recovery CDs having the same problem.

However, CHKDSK on a physical damaged / dying hard drive is basically suicide for your data. CHKDSK is not a data recovery utility. It doesn’t behave like one. Data recovery utilities are cautious. If the sector is not readable, it will leave it be. CHKDSK will tenaciously retry until the data is not recoverable, mark the sector unrecoverable, and basically make recovering data a lot more difficult.

only way to get at this data is via S.M.A.R.T.

your terms a little odd- you define three "sector" types. normal readable sectors, and apparently there are two distinct "issue" sectors. unreadable and unrecoverable. they are the same, though. an unreadable sector is by definition unrecoverable; an unrecoverable sector is unrecoverable because it is unreadable.

chkdsk /r, when doing a surface scan, moves data from sectors that are failing. if the access time takes to long, it takes this as a sign that the sector is failing, and copies the data elsewhere and changes the assignment in the MFT or FAT. And marks the original (slow) sector as bad.

Modern hard drives also reassign sectors within their firmware; the circuitry may determine that a sector is failing by the same logic (long access time) and reallocate that sector to one of it's scratch sectors, automatically. if you run chkdsk in this situation with a bad sector, the drive itself copies the data from that sector to one of the scratch sectors and marks off in it's servo platter that it should remap all requests for data in that sector to the scratch sector it used. chkdsk has no knowledge of this. in fact, the only way to get at this data is via S.M.A.R.T.

In either case, the only reason chkdsk would cause more issues in the case of a physical drive issue (chipped? more like scratched from a head crash) is simply because it's accessing the drive. the same issues would occur with any drive access by any application. It's not an issue with chkdsk- it's an issue with the drive. this is like blaming chkdsk for corrupting your data when your hard drive catches fire.

I do not have a virus. It's Isass.exe. Not Lsass.exe.

Maybe you can help me? I believe what you're saying, but what makes this different?

I just GOT Western Digital SATA hard drive, it flashes red alot when i'm connected through a ROUTER, is that normal, I have Windows 7 Home Premium also. Do you mean your hard drive access led?
That just means that your disk is being ACCESSED.what do you mean, my hard drive is being accessed. the red light flashes alot, that is what i'm askingWhat's the model of the hard drive ?

Are you having a problem ? Or just curious about the light ?

Hard drive use LEDs to indicate when they are working. When there is little or no work being done, they are off..Quote from: MD507 on April 14, 2010, 07:05:56 PM

what do you mean, my hard drive is being accessed. the red light flashes alot, that is what i'm asking