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I have a Dell XPS system running Win. XP Media Center. I have an old HP LaserJet 4 printer running from the parallel port. After a lightening storm my parallel printer port stopped working. The printer runs normally with another computer so I know its not the printer. I need to know if I can connect the printer through the serial port. My computer has a nine pin male serial port and the LaserJet has a 25 pin female serial port. Do I just switch the printer port setting from LPT1 to COM1, and where can I get the correct serial cable? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Another option would be a USB to parallel adapter. Several companies sell them.

Several years ago I used a HP LJ 4's serial port to print out results from MOSTLY HP test equipment and that worked fine. But I SEEM to remember some quirks to using the serial port with NON HP devices.

Look for an HP JetDirect internal card for the printer or a JetDirect Converter box which converts the printer to ethernet. Then you just PLUG it into the router and install the JetDirect driver software. I've got a 300x and it works GREAT. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jetdirect

a clear specification for the SYSTEM. INCLUDING full details of hardware, operating system, and the application software required. indicating possible sources.Huh?Lol

There was a little spamming going on LAST NIGHT. MIGHT be the same personPan way i dint understand the answer you are given to my question.We do not understand your question.Quote from: muktarrj on April 06, 2010, 03:11:28 PM

Pan way i dint understand the answer you are given to my question.

i am TRYING to determine if mobos are dead as on emacines DONT BOOT up but appear to run
Perhaps a LITTLE more information MIGHT be helpful.

Why don't all AC Adapted powered USB Hubs charge handheld devises. The devices that are made to be
charged by a USB port on your computer. Even the USB Ports on COMPUTERS don't ALWAYS charge devices. What USB AC Powered Hub is the best for charging???It's a limitation of Windows & USB2.0, current to USB port is limited to 500ma (1/2 A).

The USB 3.0 Power specification STATES the following:
In Battery Charging Specification, NEW powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification.Thank You.

Here is my QUESTION. Can I set up my disk drives has a raid array and EXPECT to have faster speeds on my computer?
My ASUS A7V8X has a P4 at 2.6Ghz and 1Gb memory.
I have the VIA RAID Tool that came will the motherboard.

I have at least two motherboards here that can support a raid system. The raid drives would have to be SATA drives. The Windows XP version I have will run on SATA, but I've never attempted to use it on a raid drive.
Have a matched pair of 40 GB satirized that I could use for the raid array. The stuff that I don't use every day I could store on larger IDE drives I have. I have both 160 and 250gauge IDE drive. I ALSO have some smaller IDE drives that could be used if needed.
So what I'm thinking of is this: one IDE drive for just the operating system, then the two-sided drives has a raid array with everything else on it, including the program files. Would that give me any speed advantage over my present setup adjust using a large IDE drive?

Some programs are slow to load. Like my Voice recognition.
An yes the Voice Recognition is better in Windows 7, but windows 7 is slow on this ole single core CPU. So I was thinking of gong RAID on Windows XP HOME Edition.

An I do not want to spend on dime on any thing new. I GOT a lot of stuff lying around here and I would like to come up with one system that would be fester than what I have. RAID is one thing I have not tired.

There are negative remarks out there about RAID for a home computer.r. Why?
Example:

RAID - Not such a clever idea for your home PC

The link you provided about says it all. "RAID - Not such a clever idea for your home PC "

Quote from: Frejoh466 on APRIL 04, 2010, 05:42:21 AM

Yea did just find out how. Thanks ANYWAY

Here's my spec:
CPU: Intel E6600
Mobo: GIGABYTE 965P-DS3P (rev. 3.3)
RAM: Transcend 1GB, DDR2-800 x2
PSU: 500w Antec Earth Watts Power Supply

My GPU: 1GB ATI Radeon HD5770

Can my PSU SUPPORT all these specs Wattage?After a quick look I would SAY YES. Not much head room though. 450 watt min.I'm USING Power Supply Calculator. It has big databse of components and it gives you very good overview.

My dad just bought me a really cheap printer ($40.00) without even thinking.
Well.. typical. Anyway, I've gone immediately online to check reviews.
Most of them were "I am (very) satisfied with this product", they got overal 8/10 ratings..
but guess what, they were reviewed by complete noobs who favor the "oh wow, there's a picture on the button in my setup!"-approach... I've said enough.

However, I've found a review of more serious users.. and look.. bad review.. :
the review

The reviews are at the bottom of the page so please scroll down.
Now I'm asking you guys for help because I have a fresh signed warranty paper (it was bought today) and I am wondering if I should tell my dad to send back this apparent 'scam of a printer' immediately and buy myself a decent printer (the last printer I bought cost me $300 but at least it was decent.. however it was from Brother and yep, it failed because that's what it was designed to do after a year. Its memory got corrupted and what can ya do, nothing but pay $500 to replace it).

Parents have good intentions but.. no tech skills. lol
Can you guys tell me an excellent, low-ink consuming, excellent-quality printing, excellent printer.. blah. Ok you know what I mean. I want an excellent printer for a decent price. What brand should I get? Oh and.. one that won't break (printer heads) after years!

Also.. should I get rid of this printer?
I'll give it a shot testing it out..

Cheers,
Treval
Right.

So here is my first opinion:

1) the setup took 53 minutes to complete. Has anyone ever had a setup that long?! I couldn't do ANYTHING meanwhile! I couldn't multitask because the thing was constantly occupying my I/O!

2) It re-aligns the printer heads every time you want to print ANYTHING (be it a simple black and white page)! It takes 14 seconds + 8 seconds to print ONE, SILLY, PAGE!!!
Should I be happy about this?!

Anyway.. further review pending.. on to the scanning..

24 seconds to print one page.
That is below par isn't it?
One, black and white, page! ONE PAGE!!! ONE!!!
Is this acceptable? =D

Anyway the real bottleneck if the transfer speed (yes I have USB 2.0 on my PC and USB 2.0 is the cable..) .. it just takes 15 seconds to re-align the printer heads every time I want to print anything.. but after the 14 seconds are over, it will print 8 seconds per page..

Guess what! This printer has no connectivity (ethernet/bluetooth/etc) whatsoever except USB! I guess I could remote desktop to it.. ROFL.. anyway.. further investigation pending..

Scanning: for a bad scan: 2 seconds
for anything of a decent scan (max settings): 1 minute 5 seconds

Nice to waste my time. Anyway.. I'll just use it and see how it goes.



Believe me, I feel your pain. Realistically, a forty dollar inkjet printer is going to be pretty horrible, (I had a bottom-of-the-range Lexmark once), even without a scanner built in, and this sounds typical. You might say, "Ah, but I've got a scanner thrown in" but to my astonishment I see from those user reviews that the MP190 refuses to scan if the ink has run out! Seriously. It sounds very slow as well. At that price you are getting basic functionality - that's all. I had a Canon Pixma 4200 and a whole set of cartridges cost very nearly as much as the printer did. Eventually I gave up inkjet printing and bought a Canon laser printer for 45 English pounds - if I want colour prints I take a memory card to Boots (a well known chain of pharmacists). My laser toner cartridge is good for 1500 pages of average text.
1500 woah.. that is nice! Not so expensive neither.. Yeah laser is the way to go. One of the symptoms of an inkjet printer is that it prints stripes on the paper (horrible!) if the ink has not been used for a large amount of time.

I'm getting scared about the ink gone -> no more scan problem.. lol..
The funny thing is the other all-in-one's printing no longer works but the scan does.. so should I clog my desk with two printers if the ink is gone? ROFL.. hm nah.. dunno.
An even funnier thing is that this printer prints faster (reacts) over the wifi than when connected locally (double you tee eff?). Yeah. No 14 second lag. Something to do with print spooler and priorities.
I've printed my detailed digicam pic and the result is quite good on basic settings even.

Anyway, until this one gives up, I'll save up for a new one.
If this one breaks, well, time for a new one. =P
I also haven't heard many positive things about the lifespan of this..
Also there is no double-sided printing (meh). That is a real bottleneck.
With my other printer I would just print my book in one fly. LOL
Now I'm wondering how long it will take until my grayscale/color printing will last.
They say 15 pages.. hah.. well I'm about to find out this week/month.. lol..



My printer prints everything in magenta now. The output was alright when it was working but I SURE can't submit pink resumes...


...

or CAN I?...

I also know what you mean by Noob reviews. the reviews for my printer were pretty much ooh's and ahh's "OMG SRSLY THE PRINTER TALKS WHEN IT IS GONNA PRINT!"... they forgot to mention the most COMMON "talk" was the printer software saying "Problem Communicating with the Printer"Looking a gift horse in the mouth a bit ? ?
If it suxx that bad go buy one.Quote

they forgot to mention the most common "talk" was the printer software saying "Problem Communicating with the Printer"

Looking a gift horse in the mouth a bit ? ?
If it suxx that bad go buy one.

No

Unless by some CHANCE your own psu is faulty, outputting incorrect voltages or ripplesDon't worry about it now, I took my PC to the repair place and the problem was actually IDE and other cables not plugged in the motherboard properly. Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate it.Which computer are you TALKING about... Your computer or your BROTHER's ?

This is driving me absolutely crazy all 7 of my USB ports have stopped working. My problem originated when my computer just wouldn't start up one day. The green light on my motherboard was lit up and the only sign of power. Eventually I figured out how to jump start my comp with a paper clip. Computer started up but went into somesort of preboot sequence which i could not get out of because the USB ports were broken. Dug up an old PS/2 keyboard and mouse saved all of my files to a BACK up drive and reformatted. Everything working perfectly, then slowly the usb ports started malfunctioning again? Now nothing, everything I have read INDICATED it was not my motherboard because all of the usb ports are giving off power(charges Ipod etc.) but computer does not RECOGNIZE. Uninstalled all the USP drives , nothing. turned computer off removed battery waited HOUR tried again nothing. I have a DELL dimension 9100. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

I have a old hard drive, from a desktop. I am trying to read what is on it with my laptop and usb CONNECTION. I GET a message SHOWING that the drive is locked and I can not access the info. Any help on how to clear this up WOULD be great.

Thanks.Hard drive passwords are next to IMPOSSIBLE to get past...sorry.

???i have a envision h1981 flat screen monitor that has the data cut off of it,i have spare data cables but not an identical one. what i NEED to know is whitch color WIRE from monitor goes to which pin on the 15 pin data CONNECTOR that i'll use when replacing the cable? thanx... You will need to find a wiring schematic or pin out scheme from the manufacturer.

Quite often a small corner electronics repair shop can be USEFUL in a case like this.

Hey there, Im a first time computer builder here and Im having some problems.
Here is the hardware I have:

Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 ST3750528AS 750GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
COOLER MASTER Elite RC-310-OWR460 Black SECC ATX Mid Tower Computer Case RS-460-PSAR-J3, Elite 460W Power Supply - Retail
ASUS M4A785-M AM3/AM2+/AM2 AMD 785G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail
AMD Athlon II X2 245 Regor 2.9GHz Socket AM3 65W Dual-Core Processor Model ADX245OCGQBOX - Retail
CORSAIR XMS2 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Desktop Memory Model TWIN2X4096-6400C5C - Retail

So I assembled everything, I think correctly. Two things I noted that were weird were:
1.The power supply has 2 cables to connect to the motherboard. One is a 4 pin the other a 20 pin. However the motherboard has a slot for a 4 pin and a 24 pin. It does state in the manual that you can still use the 20 pin though. Unless there is maybe an additonal 4 pin Im missing to add to the 20 pin? But P1 is the 20 pin and P2 is the 4 pin as labeled. (I bought these as a combo deal from newegg so I know they are all compatable). There are extra power cables that I dont have a connection for, numerous larger 4 pin white component connections, one 6 pin black one (3 on top of 3), and on extra 4 pin white (2 square over 2 square) one.
2. I know the hard drive is a bare drive and the dvd burner is OEM bulk but the motherboard came with 2 sata cables and also an ide cable. Ive installed hard drives before but always used an ide cable. This one doesnt have that option, neither does the disc drive so...

I have the dvd drive hooked up to the motherboard via sata. and to the power supply via power.
I have the hard drive hooked up to the motherboard via sata and to the power supply. But there is an extra 4 pin slot I think may be missing a cable. I did not hook up the hard drive to the dvd drive in any way at all. Dont know if I need to do that.

Anyhow, I plugged it all in and turned it on and the power button flashes for a second and the fan spins for a second and then nothing. Except the light on the motherboard will stay on and green.

The power supply that came with the case is 460W power supply and the motherboard claims to only need 300w.

And once I finally get this up and running, is it easy to install windows on a totally clean system? What does BIOS mean?

I know, I need help. Thanks This is my new hobby!




Quote from: mstrssofposeidon on March 30, 2010, 09:58:48 PM

1.The power supply has 2 cables to connect to the motherboard. One is a 4 pin the other a 20 pin. However the motherboard has a slot for a 4 pin and a 24 pin. It does state in the manual that you can still use the 20 pin though. Unless there is maybe an additonal 4 pin Im missing to add to the 20 pin? But P1 is the 20 pin and P2 is the 4 pin as labeled. (I bought these as a combo deal from newegg so I know they are all compatable). There are extra power cables that I dont have a connection for, numerous larger 4 pin white component connections, one 6 pin black one (3 on top of 3), and on extra 4 pin white (2 square over 2 square) one.

2. I know the hard drive is a bare drive and the dvd burner is OEM bulk but the motherboard came with 2 sata cables and also an ide cable. Ive installed hard drives before but always used an ide cable. This one doesnt have that option, neither does the disc drive so...

I have the dvd drive hooked up to the motherboard via sata. and to the power supply via power.

I have the hard drive hooked up to the motherboard via sata and to the power supply. But there is an extra 4 pin slot I think may be missing a cable.

I did not hook up the hard drive to the dvd drive in any way at all. Dont know if I need to do that.

Anyhow, I plugged it all in and turned it on and the power button flashes for a second and the fan spins for a second and then nothing. Except the light on the motherboard will stay on and green.

The power supply that came with the case is 460W power supply and the motherboard claims to only need 300w.

And once I finally get this up and running, is it easy to install windows on a totally clean system? What does BIOS mean?

I know, I need help. Thanks This is my new hobby!

No I did not put that heat paste on the processor when I installed it so I will need to get some of that assuming it didnt come with the processor already when I bought it.

...
1. ... I took BOTH power supplies and hooked them up to my new system. One to the components and one to the motherboard. And it still did the same "try and start" bit.
2. However, with that extra power, the fans spun a little bit longer.
3. Im thinking that maybe I just need a super dookie power supply?
4. Is there a way to test the cpu to see if that is the problem?

Quote

how do you intend to test either/or ? ?

I'm assuming U.S.

(888) 352 7140

Hi guys.

Looking for a laptop to use on the move, screen size isn't too important, and it wont be doing much in the way of hard work like gaming or anything.

I did find these ultra mobile toshiba laptops with a 9 to 11 hour battery life, but is this a serious battery life, or max battery life assuming I leave it switched on and sit there looking at some pretty wallpaper. What do you think the ''real'' operating life will be.

Also, I read this report, so if possible I would prefer something Asus, Toshiba or Sony.

Thanks in advance.About how much were you thinking of spending for a laptop? I guess £500-£600 but cheaper is better unless I can get something special for my moneyHi Dave P,
you might want to check these out if you are not going to be doing anything special with it. And maybe save a few £££'s There is some Toshibas on page 5

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/refurbished-laptops/703_7366_70436_xx_xx/xx-criteria.html

for me the best choice is Toshibe and Sony. For the battery life span i think it can last for 7hours. But as time your using your laptop then of course your battery is DEGRADE. Quote from: ganjaman on March 23, 2010, 05:12:55 PM

Hi Dave P,
you might want to check these out if you are not going to be doing anything special with it. And maybe save a few £££'s There is some Toshibas on page 5

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/refurbished-laptops/703_7366_70436_xx_xx/xx-criteria.html

I'm not much of a fan of refubs or PC world. While refurbs seem like a good idea, the change of failure of a component in a PC increases by about 6-7% per year, so anything that has been in use already greatly increases the chance of failure.

Yawn: yet another simple answer from BC

It seems much more eloquent than your reply though...

I was wondering if any one knew where I could get a display CABLE for a Toshiba M45-S169 laptop. Like for the display screenDo you need a cable to connect an external monitor to your laptop or to connect the EXISTING LCD screen to the laptop's motherboard?Have a look on the Toshiba site, you might pick some info there....Sorry, I had trouble a while back getting on here again. Any way I looked at Toshiba's site but they DONT regularly vend those cables an probably would be costly. I need the cable for the screen an if anyone know where to find an online replacement manual for how to do it. Thanks guys.wow talk about a bump! lolI couldnt get on for a good while. It was wierd.Well...since you bumped this, then:

Quote from: killerb255 on December 15, 2009, 02:08:11 PM

Do you need a cable to connect an external monitor to your laptop or to connect the existing LCD screen to the laptop's motherboard?

I couldnt get on for a good while. It was wierd.

I can't seem to find any way of removing the covers to install my new card, theres no SCREWS or ANYTHING to indicate how to remove them. There's only one hatch type of thing in the back (seen in the left of the pic) but all that does is open and close.

Please help

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]The card slot BLANKS appear to be 'Knock-outs' and are designed to be removed by gently twisting until they snap out. They will look to be attached by very tiny 'tangs' at four or five points. They are disposable & cannot be re-used. CHECK carefully first! Hope this helps. Alexmathx, I was able to pop them out. Took a while but I got it

Please help.

How can i REVIVE my HDD in my LAPTOP? I tried to remove it and slave it to other 2PC and 1 other laptop but it can not be detected. How can i recover this? is there any software for that?How about some background information?I reformat it and everything is successful. I'm using it for almost two weeks. After that, one morning i tried to turn t on but it display insert system DISK. I tried removing the hdd and slave it to other PC and even in my other laptop using my ENCLOSURE but it was not detected. It didn't even have any vibration after i plug it in the USB socket. I try changing the HDD and it was detected by the laptop. Please help. Can i still revive this HDD? Doesn't sound like it, no. SorryNot if you can't feel it spinning up in the enclosure ....no.
Let me guess...no DATA backups ? ?

The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.

Makes it more annoying that it's not a consistant fault.

Motherboard Supplier ASUS
System BIOS Supplier ASUS/Award
Board Form Factor uATX
Processor Brand Intel
Processor Socket Type mPGA478
Processor Family Pentium 4HT
Maximum Processor Core Frequency Up to 3.2 GHz P4 Northwood
Processor Front Side Bus 800/533/400 MHz
Hyper Threading Support Yes
Processor VRM Specification Northwood FMB2
Chipset 'North Bridge' 865G
Chipset 'South Bridge' ICH5
Super I/O SMsC LPC47M192-NC
Flash BIOS Device Type and Density FWH 4 Mbit
Memory Type DDR SDRAM (Supports duel channel)
Memory Speed PC3200 (400 MHz),

PC2700 (333 MHz),

PC2100 (266 MHz)
Memory Sockets Four DDR DIMM (184-pin)
Single or Dual Channel Dual System Memory
Maximum Memory Supported 4GB (4 x 512MB) unbuffered (HP and Compaq recommend 2GB)
AGP GRAPHICS Support Yes
AGP Graphics Maximum Mode AGP 8x
Integrated Graphics Supplier Intel
Integrated Graphics Shared (UMA) Memory Up to 64 MB Intel DVMT- dynamic (32 MB if less than 256 MB system memory)
Graphics Configuration Integrated on motherboard
Graphics Connector AGP 8x (available)
TV-out Device or Configuration No
Integrated Audio Type AC'97
AC'97 Codec Device Realtek ALC650
5.1 (Dolby) Channel Audio Support Yes, Six speaker mode (requires audio driver and software setting changes)
Passive Speaker Output (amplifed) Speaker-out header
Rear Audio Jacks Microphone,

Line-in,

Line-out,
Front Audio Connectors Headphones,

Microphone,

Line-in
Ethernet 10/100 LAN Supplier PCI Realtek RT8101L
Ethernet Configuration Integrated, Down
IEEE 1394 Support Configuration: Integrated on motherboard

MAC/PHY Device: TI TSB43AB22

Maximum transfer rate: 400MBps

Ports: Two total (1 front, 1 back)
IDE/ATAPI UDMA Modes 2 IDE connectors Supports. 2 IDE devices on each connector. Supports UDMA 100/66/33 - requires an 40 pin/80 conductor cable for UDMA 66 and 100 disk drives

2 SATA connectors Supports. 1 Serial ATA-150 disk drive on each connector
Expansion Slots One AGP,

Three PCI,

One Ultra ATA
USB Ports Supports up to 8 USB v2.0
USB Front/Rear Options Up to four front, four rear
Rear External Ports One serial,

One parallel,

One floppy,

Two PS/2 (keyboard and mouse),

One IEEE 1394,

Four USB,

One VGA Monitor
Front External Ports Two USB, One IEEE 1394
Fan support Headers for CPU and System

CPU Fan Speed Control for active fansink

System Fan Speed Control
Available Manufacturer Options Integrated graphics (G),

Integrated LAN (L),

Six speaker mode, Dolby 5.1 (6)

Integrated 1394 (E)

i had the PC running with xp and 768ram on a northwood p4 2.4ghz
i had it given to me by a friend and it was really filthy so i stripped the lot and now its new and not working?
the only other thing i did was to buy a new p4 northwood at 3.2ghz.
what i cant figure is what could be wrong? the power supply was stripped and now is powering another pc also hp.
i have put everything back clean and put new silver paste on all.
what it does is weird, it goes on when i turn the power on then turns of. it does the same when you press the case button. about 2.5 seconds i believe.

any ideas guysWere the MBoard STANDOFFS in place correctly when re-assembling ?

Hey guys i had some problems with my computer.. So here's the details

I enter BIOS mode and MADE the boot method to cd/dvd.

I attempt to install windows xp, it fails says the COMP is missing drivers

Now, i need to somehow enter BIOS mode again while bypassing the boot from cd?

When i turn on the comp, it immediately boots the cd and prevents me from entering BIOS
I take out the cd, and YET the comp asks for me to insert a bootable cd.

So is there anyway to enter BIOS, by bypassing boot from cd?I'm not sure what the default settings are for your bios, but removing the cmos battery (shinny round thing) from the motherboard for a minute or so, and then reinstalling it, may just put you back where you where before you set the boot order to CD/DVD (first)

Unplug the computer first, and touch and unpainted piece of metal inside your computer to discharge possible static, before TAKING the battery out..

Quote

I attempt to install windows xp, it fails says the comp is missing drivers

I WANT to use this new GPU I bought Zotac GTX260*2(216SP) 896M DDR3 on my mobo here's what the SPEC would be like:

CPU: Intel E6600
GPU: Zotac GTX260*2(216SP) 896M DDR3
Mobo: GIGABYTE 965P-DS3P(rev. 3.3)
RAM: Transcend 1GB, DDR2-800 x2
PSU:500w Antec EARTH Watts Power Supply

No need to double Post
Topic Closed.

welll first off few weeks ago my psu died and i researched and found out my COMPUTER needs this kind of model because it was designed to fit inside. so also found out the model i had no longer in production.

so i found this model that are made to be compatible to my last model. So i think ok this do. So ya found out when i opened it the part that connects to the mother board is 24 slots and the one on my mother board is 20... so i was going see if it worked if i just push it in while other 4 just sit there but because the hook that snaps in is hitting a screw that holds the mother board down I'm guess is blocking me from doing that. it won't go down all the WAY.

so I'm thinking if i just crack that snap off would it work?. because i don't want to snap something that's not going work. so will the 24 PIN work even though the mother board has a 20 pin? and if so how sure are you?

please put in English terms lol.
also
thank you for your time.here's few pics...

but anyways vs breaking the chip off i notice they sell 24 to 20 pin adapter would this SOLVE my problem?

http://www.xpcgear.com/24to20pinatx.html I'm sure i can pick something like this up at bestbuy/sometype computer store







it's going in but that screw looking thing is blocking it going all the way in.



i put it on the gray case to be seen better then my red carpetQuote from: JOEVSYOU on April 01, 2010, 04:27:39 PM

...but anyways vs breaking the chip off i notice they sell 24 to 20 pin adapter would this solve my problem?

Get the adapter.

so that should fix my issue right? if so thanks!!!

That's what the adapters are for. Make sure you get the right one, they have 20 to 24 and 24 to 20, and you need to know whether they mean psu to mobo or mobo to psu.

This has only started recently, and I haven't booted it up since for fear of acerbating the problem.
This computer has been running just fine for about 3 MONTHS now.
I have a huge fan mounted on the side, a front and back fan for airflow and a pre-installed custom liquid cooling unit solely for the CPU.
2 GTX480's running SLI, a LITTLE close together for my comfort but after being reassured twofold by the tech and extensive tracking of the GPU temps, they've never run above 80C.
My motherboard is an Asus P6X58D-E. I'm running Windows 7 premium 64 bit. I have 12 gigs of corsair RAM.
My CPU is an Intel i7 extreme edition.
I'm using WebRoot Internet Security Essentials and the Windows Security firewall.

To the problem.
I've been using the computer on and off. Keeping it relatively free of dust. I haven't even tried using it to "it's full potential" according to some of my friends. Mainly, I just BROWSE the web
and play a quick game of League of Legends. I tried a Crysis demo, but got bored and went back to LoL.
About 3 weeks ago, it locked up on me. I'm not entirely familiar with these kind of things but nothing was responding, mouse, keyboard, etc. etc.
So I shut it off, and LEFT for WORK.
Turned it back on, and boom, worked just fine for the better part of the day. And it locked up again. This time I noticed sound was still running from the speakers, and Skype was still running in the background because I could still converse with my friends.
I shut it off again, opened her up, checked connections, see if anything was leaking out of the liquid cooling unit, reseated the RAM, everything I've been told to do just in case a problem came up.
I rebooted, ran fine again for about 2 hours and locked up the same way. I rebooted and whenever I would try to log in, it would load for a second, lock up, and signal would stop being sent to my monitor.
I tried again, and the same thing. Its locked up at this specific point several times and I gave up.
Now, today, it will run about 2 minutes and lock up, display still up and everything. I will try to log-in and it will lock up at the same exact point it was before, this time with no signal being sent to my display.
Nothing is abnormally hot. As I said, the GPU's are the hottest things in there, but at max temps of 80C, I would just assume that's fine seeing as how Nvidias standard max threshold is 105C?
I just want to figure out whats wrong, if I've fried a GPU somehow, or my mobo's on the fritz.Have you tried older/newer drivers for the card?Can you boot into Safe Mode?

Alan <>< I haven't tried older/newer drivers for the card. I haven't actually messed with drivers or anything of the sort at all.

And yes, I can boot into safe mode. Sorry, you kind of fired up my memory there a second. I was able to boot into safe mode, recover my documents and files onto a backup hard drive, and perform a system restore on my computer.
I was wanting to format the computer, I am just waiting on a spare Windows disc.I would edit. I just can't figure out how.
Anyways, an update, and probably solved my own problem.
I took out the secondary GPU and I'm actually posting from the problem computer now. I looked at the secondary in Safe Mode, dinked around and looked at resources and it mentioned it wasn't using any resources because it was experiencing a problem.
I guess its hosed?
Or maybe just something screwed up in the registry?
I can't mess with it right now, backs a little off and this thing weighs a ton. It was work enough just removing the thing, being seated right next to the other, I could barely push the tab to eject it out.

I have a new question now, how's the warranty on these kind of things? Are they pretty lenient? I mean, this is how it was built and presented to me, don't they have some fault in the matter?Depends on how old it is. Now-a-days manufacturers are warranting things for 90-days, some 1 year and some hard drives for 3 years.

Lenient? Depends on what side of the bed they got up that morning. All you can do is contact them and ask.

Alan <><

Doesn't beep if there is no speaker. Mobo speaker is no longer integrated and must be PROVIDED by the BUILDER. This is the 2ND motherboard, so I don't think it's the problem. CPU being used is compatible.
I'm at a loss to figure this out, but check this:
CPU fan plug has 4 pin sockets, are you sure all 4 mobo pins are inserted into the plug? If mobo doesn't see the fan, it will shut off.
You might want to connect a mobo speaker to see if it is beeping.
What about the graphics card? That could prevent it from STAYING on, too.I'm just using the onboard graphics. Checked the fan and made sure it was plugged in properly. I guess I'm just going to try replacing the PROCESSOR. I appreciate the input from everyone I'm still open to new ideas.I think it's probably a bad CPU, you have changed the main board and PSU.Quote

You might want to connect a mobo speaker to see if it is beeping.

Quote

all IM looking for really its (true colour 32 bit) and more pixels then 1288x1044.

all im looking for really its (true colour 32 bit) and more pixels then 1288x1044.

hi everybody

I have problem in PRINTING, when I PRINT there is a msg which in DOT4_001
WHAT IS THAT AND HOW I SOLVE IT?http://forums11.itrc.hp.com/service/forums/questionanswer.do?admit=109447626+1286905739921+28353475&threadId=623239Can't wait to see this Inbox in a week...

ok so i hooked this thing upd to my macbook ran the INSTALLATION now my question is is there anything I still need to do before i can start using this hdd? I still have the software that CAME on it do I just create a new folder and go use it? Another thing when installing it ASKED weather i wanted Mac, or mac and PC compatible. I choose mac and pc but apparently that option doesn't allow time machine to work how to i get time machine to work on this. And one last this when i click eject on my mac the drive shuts off, but as soon i i pull the usb CORD out it turns back on should i pull the power cord after i eject?I'm thinking that it has to be formatted as Mac-compatible only, as I don't think Time Machine works on a FAT32 partition (and I don't think Macs read NTFS, unless that's changed in the past few years).

Hi everyone.

I've just installed a new Asus motherboard after having had the same moBo for over FOUR years. The problem has come from the fact that my old MoBo had two IDE connectors and my new MoBo only has one, which is forcing me to put my system drive, which is IDE, and my DVD drive on the same cable, which I had not done with my previous motherboard.

Problem is, the BIOS will only find one drive or the other. I can't get it to find them both at the same time. I've tried a bunch of different CONFIGURATIONS and it will still only see one or the other. If I take one drive off and only have one on, it has always found that one drive on the cable.

So I can't get WINDOWS XP to boot from CD in order to do a repair install so I can get my OS back in functional shape on my C: drive, because I have to have both of the IDE drives operational to do that and the system won't find both of them.

So my questions are as follows: if you have a DVD/CD drive and an IDE HDD drive on the same cable and you are going to boot Windows XP from CD and then do a repair installation onto the HDD (to get a previous installation on that drive working properly again) , does it matter which drive is MASTER and which is slave on the cable?

Also, I need help trying to judge how my Maxtor HDD is set. It doesn't have any diagram or info on the drive indicating which jumper positions are master, slave, and cable select and I have no recollection at all as to how I might have set it in the past. It has two jumpers in it right now, one is horizontal and one is vertical.

Thanks very much in advance for your help,
DaveRefer to this site about IDE jumper settings on one IDE connector : http://www.onlinecomputertips.com/hardware/hd_jumpers.html
Set BIOS to default settings, save and exit. Once IDE devices were recognized on BIOS set-up, boot cd as first. However a previous OS installed on HD from old mobo going into the Asus mobo will have to be a complete installation so all data will be lost. If necessary, back-up.

MB===========================================Slave============Master.

The HDD should be jumpered master.

I tried to install win. XP . AT one point I hard this message : A DISK read error occured. Press ctrl+alt+del. to resart. When press it , the same error message APPEARS. What can I do now? Please help !!!!!!!.You can start by providing a LOT more details about exactly what is going on, the system, where you obtained the XP cd, how you are trying to install XP, and when you get that message.I bought the CD. i boot the syetem from CD-ROM drive with the CD in the drive. AT one point it said it was formating NTFS. LATER on , the message of ctrl+alt+del came up. Since tten, each time I boot the system, the message comes.Quote from: sirhums on October 12, 2010, 06:27:52 AM

I bought the CD. i boot the syetem from CD-ROM drive with the CD in the drive. AT one point it said it was formating NTFS. Later on , the message of ctrl+alt+del came up. Since tten, each time I boot the system, the message comes.

My sound crackles and pops, it seems like their is some sort of delay and or slow motion going on too. It is hard to tell because the sound is sooo distorted. This happens whenever I play any type of audio, (VLC, FL Studio, Window's Media Player, even system sounds...)

I figured getting an external sound card would solve the problem, so I bought a creative X-fi notebook card, and I am getting the same thing from it.

I have messed around with just about every setting in the control panel and NOTHINGS working. I have updated drivers as well.

My specs: HP Touchsmart tx2
Windows 7 Ultimate (64 bit)
AMD Turion X2 Dual Core Mobile RM-72 2.10 GHZ
4 GB RAM
ATI Radeon HD 3200
Creative SB X-fi notebook

I experience the distortion/crackling through the built in speakers, HEADPHONES, line out to external speakers, however I can still burn cds and render audio in FL studio, whether or not that matters I am not sure.Searching on your behalf i came across the following responce to ANOTHER having this problem. It is not the "driver" portion that may interest you but the "KHZ" setting.
plasmastorm 09-18-2009 at 11:08:11 PM


Sounds like incompatible drivers, had the same issue myself a few times in vista. Try the latest and if that does not work they try one a few months old just incase.

Also worth checking the sound control panel to see what Khz range the output is set to, if it is higher than you sound card supports this can happen.
Reply to plasmastorm

dvalval 09-19-2009 at 07:19:43 PM



Hello everyone,
Thanks for your knowledge. I checked the drivers, and previously reinstalled them. They show compatibility. I reset the Khz range to match. I left it at Dolby live at 48000 hz. The sound is working 100% better. There is still some didtorstion when play cd's through the speakers. But the sound is audible and I was able know to get sound through my HDTV speakers using an SPDIF to RCA connections. It is working. It could sound better but for know it is acceptable.
Are there any suggestions to eliminate that distortion? I have already invested in some high quality cables.

Thanks
The credit for this INFORMATION belongs to the following site which also contains further answers to your issue incase the one i have provided does not solve it.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/266923-28-crackling-distorted-sound-problem
Good luck,truenorth
the weirdness gets weirder, i did everything. sound is still distorted. however, if i leave my "sound" window open, and only if i have the "recording" tab open, with the built in microphone enabled, but the X-fi enabled as the default device, i get almost clear sound, good enough to live with, though this is going to drive me nuts.This would mean it's a software issue...not hardware.strange. maybe a windows re-install will do the trick? or could it be additional software i've added, malware or spyware? maybe i will roll the hard drive back to july.

When I connet my external hard drive to my computer, it doesn't show up on my computer. Can anyone help?Try it in another computer, first.Quote from: BRONI on September 23, 2010, 09:06:55 PM

Try it in another computer, first.

I recently bought a Panasonic LS-84 portable region-free DVD player for my kids. It's a really nice little machine and works very well. While at home I like to connect it to a TV for them so they can enjoy viewing on a bigger screen. Unfortunately, when I do this, the picture is black and white and the picture quality is not as good. The TV audio works well but I can't get a nice color picture.

If you have any suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Could be an NTSC/PAL button you need to press. Some DVD players have this either on the remote control or the player itself to match with the TV region CODE or DVD itself.What kind of connection, or cables, are you USING to connect it to the TV?

What part of the world are you in, and in what country are the DVDs bought?This player didn't come with a remote and it doesn't have an NTSC/PAL button.

For connection I am using the red-yellow-white (3 connect line) into the TV. The end connecting to the DVD player is only a 1-connect line and it's the yellow one. In order to get the TV audio, I am simply using the same line I use for my laptop, a simple black cord that plugs into the headphone slot on the DVD player.It's odd that the DVD player has a video output, but no audio outputs.

I would contact the manufacturer, or who ever you bought it from, and see about a warranty exchange or repair. It sounds like the color carrier on the output isn't working.The yellow cord is connected to a jack which is called audio/video. However, in order to get audio from speakers or another device, i need to plug from one the headphone jacks. Otherwise, the SOUND simply comes from the little speakers on the player.What country was the DVD player made in?
Made in China, purchased on Amazon Japan. Using it in Japan now. It's composite output.

From a review:

Quote

Apart from the twin headphone outputs for shared listening, the only socket is a minijack input/output that sends composite video and stereo audio to a TV using the supplied adapter cable, as well as allowing you to watch an external device on the screen.

Television Signal System PAL/PAL60 (NTSC) Selectable

Choose PAL 60 or NTSC output when playing NTSC discs.

Hello,
I have a Acer Aspire 9301AWSMi, with a SATA hard drive of 160GB, RUNNING Vista ultimate.
Lately my hard drive has been giving me lots of problem, and i want to change the hard drive. for a larger hard drive.
Can anyone please tell me what is the biggest 2.5 SATA hard drive I can install, on my present laptop.....or am I over looking?? There's no limit.Quote

Can anyone please tell me what is the biggest 2.5 SATA

There's no limit.

What do you mean? Of course there is a limit. Is this some joke I am not getting?

What do you mean? Of course there is a limit. Is this some joke I am not getting?

SATA2 isn't backwards compatible with SATA.

What do you mean? Of course there is a limit.

My laptop is cracked right below the number pad on my laptop. It's and open crack, as in, a chunk cracked off and there is an opening to the inside parts, which really worries me. I KNOW I should just send it in for repairs and be done with it, but I called and it seems like they would charge me something like $150 to fix it. Does ANYONE know if they make a laptop skin for the expanse of the keyboard section of a laptop so that it will cover up the busted area? TIAIf your primary concern is the prevention of foreign objects and dirt getting into the innards of the computer (and less so to the appearance) then here is a link to a site that i believe will assist you to do the repair yourself. There are other sites that advocate "melting " plastic to fill the gap however i think that this one SOUNDS safer and more efficient. good LUCK,truenorth
http://www.ehow.com/how_5961902_fix-crack-laptop.html1st place i'd check is the laptop manuf. website.

Hello I recently got a new Graphics card it's this PNY Technologies nVIDIA GeForce 8400GS Graphics Card - 512MB, PCI, VGA/DVI-I. When I tried to put it into the PCI Express slot I could not get it into the slot so I tried to get it into one of the other Slots I got it into one of hte white ones next to it(not sure what its called). When I put it in and turned my PC back on my resolulation was really low. I tried to use hte DISK that Nvidia supply to instal the Drivers for my PC but it said Error we cannot find any hardware to suuport these Drivers.
I recently got my PC repaired it had alot viruses so I had to lsoe my old card and I had same card as before but the 256mb version and it was replaced with hte Intel Graphics onboard the Motherboard that I use so I dunno if I should remove the onbouard graphics accelerator.
PLEASE HELP! Locked low resolution graphics is Microsofts friendly way of saying I got the graphics working! Using some crummy imcompatible driver, etc, but at least it's working. You need to pat it on the back, then do the quick switch-a-roo to fix it, when it's not looking.

PCI-e = install into the PCI express slot.
PCI = is just installed in the other normal PCI slots.

Go to nVidia's offical website:
http://www.nvidia.com/

Select location, then select the tab 'Download Drivers' > 'Download Drivers'

Product Type: GeForce
Product Series: GeForce 8 Series
Product: GeForce 8400GS
Operating System: Windows Vista (you must pick 32bit or 64bit depending on the OS, hopefully you know)
Language: (whatever you want)


Download is quite large in size (~120MB), then install.

I tried that and I got hte same thing look.
http://i56.tinypic.com/mmd1ud.jpgI assume your sure that the OS is 32bit and not 64bit right? Different drivers will be used for each.

Are you 100% sure the card is what it is and not in anyway damaged?

Ensure the card is firmly installed in place (press the front of the card in first, then flaten).

Ensure there is enough power connected for the graphic card. What PSU (power suppy) are you using? Connect the cards power directly with it's own cable to PSU (not shared).

Is the Graphic connected to the monitor via VGA or using DVI cable? Only use one or the other.

Under your BIOS you can disable the onboard graphics.

Under your Control Panel > Device Manager, uninstall the standard VGA (native drivers) that Windows would of tried to install instead. There are two locations to look - 'Monitors' should have your actual drivers for the screen, not a 'Generic', 'Display adapters' is where you want your nVidia drivers to go. It will ask you to reboot.

Attempt to install the drivers.
When I go into Device Manager and then ininstal the Intel onboard graphics in Display Adaptors but I dunno where Monitor is on it. And when I restart to instal the Nvidia graphics the intel onboard graphics automatically instal themself.I cannot find any wires that ACTUALLY fit into hte graphics card it's not very powerful card its pretty weak.It's a 250 watt power supply atleast I think it is and Operating system is windows vista home 32 BIT version.You will have to disable the onboard graphics under the BIOS first before uninstall.
On the start of the boot processes, depending on motherboard, press ESC, DEL, or F2, etc (it should TELL you press 'blah' to enter BIOS)
Then find 'Onboard Graphics' and set to disabled (read motherboard book for details)
Ensure you don't change anything else, save and exit.

I've looked up that graphic card and you are correct, it doesn't need a power cable, HOWEVER the issue might be...

Minimum of a 300 Watt power supply.
Power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 18 Amps (open the case and look at the power supply label).

I still think it's an issue with not enough juice to the card.

Quote from: lectrocrew on October 05, 2010, 04:25:22 PM

1 - Where can I find a user manual for this AOpen AX63 Pro motherboard? I've searched the AOpen site and googled with no joy?

2- I have a problem with the Award BIOS in the optical drives configuration. In the settings it gives the command option for "change value" as PD/PU/+/-. exactly what key am I suppose to hit to accomplish this change. I don't understand what it's requesting.

3- I have installed 2-256Mb PC133 SDRAM modules and 1-128Mb PC133 module. Everest Home shows all 3 modules As active but the total physical memory is only 383mb, I tried swapping memory modules with known good modules but I still can't get it to acklowdege more than this. If my sesearch is correct, this MB should support 1.25 G. What to try now?

Thanks, Mike

PD/PU/+/-. exactly what key am I suppose to hit to accomplish this change. I don't understand what it's requesting.

1- http://usa.aopen.com/userdownload_List.aspx?RecNo=3523&Model=203
2- PageUp or PageDown or + or - keys
3- Probably only supports single density, not double density SDRAM; my Asus P3B-F mobo is almost identical to your AOpen & does the same thing.

Use the up/down arrow keys to move the highlight to the desired drive. Then use the following keys to move that drive in the required place in the list

PD Page Down
PU Page Up
+ Numeric keypad plus
- Numeric keypad minus

...3- The Manual says it "supports SDRAM only"(Pg 18). "DIMM can be single side or double side"(Pg 19). Is that the same as single density / double density?
I was planning to buy 3 of these 512Mb modules. Will they work?
Wow, this is certainly an overclockers motherboard. The Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R mboard I put in the big PC I built (in specs) is also, but I never overclocked it because I don't know how and didn't want to screw up such an expensive build...

Yesterday I purchased a 550-watt atx cpu power supply (a rocketfish PRODUCT). And I got 2 very amature questions about it.

1. The motherboard on my pc doesn't have anyplace to insert the 12V power connector will that be a problem?

2. Another item I bought a while ago was the zotac gts250 graphics card, and the pci express splits into two female pieces, both of them need to be connected to the psu, right?

Thanks for the help,. Quote from: frizzy on September 25, 2010, 01:14:58 PM

Yesterday I purchased a 550-watt atx cpu power supply (a rocketfish product). And I got 2 very amature questions about it.
1. The motherboard on my pc doesn't have anyplace to insert the 12V power connector will that be a problem?
2. Another item I bought a while ago was the zotac gts250 graphics card, and the pci express splits into two female pieces, both of them need to be connected to the psu, right?...

ok So I brought home this new 18.5 inch LCD e-machined monitor to my computer. I hooked it up throught VGA and TURNED it on the computer turned on ok and procceded to boot. Then i decided I wanted to see if all my games work I tried 18 wheels of steel american long hual gta sa and gta vc vc would work, the screen said SOMETHING like input not avaialble or something along the lines but the audio og gta vc was still runing. So I pulled out the addapter i got with my graphics CARD from DVI to VGA and connected that and booted the computer. After that the computer would turn on show bland screen no beep no nothing, I changed the graphics card, reset the cmos even put the screen back to just VGA nothing?!!! Please If you can help it would be great. I need this computer for tuesday to school. Here are the system specs

3 GHz dual core intel processor
1 GB I think DD2 not 100% sure
80 GB hdd
256 MB graphics card
Asus P4P 800 SE motherboard.

Like I said any help would be great. Thanks in advanceQuote

he screen said something like input not avaialble or something along the lines but the audio og gta vc was still runing.

hello

I have a Toshiba's satelite l650 laptop. my problem is ,I cant reduce the brightness more, I reduce the maximum brightness and OPEN a excel file i cannot view the line of excel sheet because of the brightness.This problem is not only the excel sheet , its the same in all program with white background , if any body know pls help me
Your ANSWER MIGHT be FOUND here : http://answers.toshiba.com/answers/0293/category/501402/questions.htm?page=2Thanks for replay me... I solved the problem because of your replay , thanks very muchhh................

I get a blue screen of death directly after the win xp screen goes before it gets to the log in page. Ive TRIED changing to a new hard drive but i cant seem to do a new install. It goes through the start of an install, but when it gets to the point where i would expect it to ask me to create a partition or format it goes to BSOD i know the disc drive works and i have checked the ram by an elimination test. There isnt any other hardware attached like a graphics card or wireless card. I am stumped?
It is a dell MACHINE with 2006 bios running xp sp3 os on the ORIGINAL drive. I would flash the bios if i could get the thing to boot but i cant get past the xp load screen using the old drive,and i cant install a new one so i dont know what to do. can anyone help?What is the complete and exact blue screen ERROR?0x00000000fc or 7E or even a 50 i havent got the machine switched on at the mo its at home but will be able to do it later when i get in.

Come on now I do have more than one computer LOL. I own a small business so I have computers coming out of my ears. I wanted to build this one for my man cave. Its out in the woods and there is no cable out there but there is 3g internet My it skills are by no means as good as the people on this forum but I am in CHARGE of all the repairs and upgrades. I also repair the trucks, mow the grass, upstop the toilets etc. etc.
Dang I hope I get what I ordered yall have me nervous. I should get the os in a week or so and I will update the thread and let yall know what I got.My windows arrived today.
It looks like it is a download as it does not have the holographic disk that you usualy have with windows and the code is printed on a PIECE of paper not a sticker. But the seller assures me it is genuine. I will install the 64 bit version. Question: I have 1 stick of 4 GB memory should I have 2 sticks one for each processor? I asked the sales guy at frys but they know just enough to get me in trouble...LOLI would be very leery of that ver. of Windows myself...Yes it did make me nervous when I first saw it, but the seller included a afidavid saying it was genuine. Also the passcode cleared at microsoft .com and it downloaded with no PROBLEMS. I will keep a copy of the ebay page where I bought it to be safe.
But still the question. Will 2 sticks of memory make the duel core processor work faster? From reading the booklet it seems that it will allow the processors to work independently of each other.

The button of my MONITOR which is used to set 'monitor display properties' is not working properly. Is there any other option to set this through 'Control Panel'? The monitor is of "Lenovo"..As FAR as I know, the only way to CHANGE a monitors SCREEN position is to use the buttons on the monitor. The reason I THINK this is that the monitor cannot be directly controlled from the computer contrast/colour etc.

Is the monitor under any kind of warranty? Do you have a digital or analog connection between the system and the display?

Is it due to RAM problem or Video Card PROB? My Auntie gave me their old Computer. When the computer arrived at Home, I switched it on and a long beep came up. IMy cousin told me I need to replace the ram with a higher one. The old RAM is DDR1 PC266 128mb. I bought two 512mb DDR PC2100 266Mghz. I installed it to the PC and the Monitor does not display. I checked the monitor to other CPU, seemed to have no problem. What should I do? Buy a Video card?
I don't know the specs of that Computer. but the mother board is Asrock. Please help me..Try troubleshooting first by reinserting RAM and Video card and make sure they are firmly inserted. Make sure the mobo is free from dust/dirt. Check for any loose and SUSPICIOUS faulty cables. Try flushing out the power by unplugging power cord and pressing power button for 5 to 10 secs. Make sure all fans are running in good condition when powering on and check for any burn or disformed capacitors(blue/black beer can like). Clear CMOS battery or better yet replaced it with a FRESH one. OR If mobo has solder points for clearing CMOS and reset parameters to default setup, use a PAPER clip to short for 3 SECONDS. Anyway, you have not MENTION if the computer was working when it was given or has previous overheat problems. Look up the model number of the Motherboard as well and get the specs. You might be trying to install 512 ram on a motherboard that will only take 256. I'm not saying it wont, I am just saying you really need to find out what the limitations are.The motherboard is Asrock K7VM2..

My computer is a Dell Dimension E521.
It has 4 RAM slots.
Atm, I have 3 sticks of RAM in it.
1x 1GB PC2-5300 (333 MHz) by Nanya Tech
2x 512MB PC2-4300 (266 MHz) by Samsung
I also have
2x 512MB PC2-5300 (555 MHz) by Samsung
From what I've read, different RAM types don't really mix too well. If the speed of 1 is lower than the others, than they all run at that lower speed. (or something...)
I was wondering if it would run faster if I had just the two 555 Mhz RAM sticks in there instead of having the 1 GB and 3 of the other ones? Also, if so, will it be a big difference? Should I just use 4 of them anyway for the additional 1.5 GB, or only use the 2?
I know it doesn't affect computer speed directly, but yeah..
I use the computer for gaming and watching movies, mostly. If that helps.
And I know RAM is cheap and I should just buy 4 matching ones and blah blah blah, but I'm just wondering about these since I have them.
Thanks in advance for any advice/comments/flaming.Quote from: Puddings on October 10, 2010, 05:27:40 PM

My computer is a Dell Dimension E521.
...
1x 1GB PC2-5300 (333 MHz) by Nanya Tech
2x 512MB PC2-4300 (266 MHz) by Samsung
I also have
2x 512MB PC2-5300 (555 MHz) by Samsung
...

Windows XP SP3
A quick run down - My external drive which contained all my backup data and programs decided to die on me (motors gone), and nothing is recoverable.
My existing 30gb IDE drive was slowly running out of space, and as my mobo was IDE only l thought it time to get some new hardware.
The new system comprises of one sata drive split into C and D partitions, another sata drive labelled as F, my old IDE cd rom labelled as E, and my old IDE cd/dvd writer labelled as G.
I asked a shop here in France to sort it out, and sort it out they did. What a disaster! A long story but l'm finally back to how it was, just, and l've got the old formatted IDE C bootable drive in my hand as we speak.
There is just one file on there that l really need to get (will save me weeks of work in recreating it) but l didn't want to dive in and mess things up.
Do l just disconnect both my existing IDE drives and hook this old one up temporarily?
Do l need to do anything with the bios boot up drives?
Oh and also, the JUMPER is missing from the drive so l don't know if that effects anything.
Any HELP and advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you Quote from: willythecat on October 10, 2010, 07:26:14 AM

Do l just disconnect both my existing IDE drives and hook this old one up temporarily?
Do l need to do anything with the bios boot up drives?
Oh and also, the jumper is missing from the drive so l don't know if that effects anything.
Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

ok so i got this Hp/compaq 2.8 Ghz fro a friend. When i got it it was a little wet so i let it dry off for a day. I plugged it in and i get this boom like in the video im about to show you how do i know for shure if the powersuply is dead? is it safe to hook it up and try again?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHPf6jHdEFg&feature=relatedQuote

how do i know for shure if the powersuply is dead?

is it safe to hook it up and try again?

only the powersupply flashed.

what that mean?

AMD processors like you describe have a feature called Cool 'n' Quiet (which has to be enabled in the BIOS, default is usually disabled) and also in the Windows Control PANEL power settings you must have "balanced" or "power-saver" (default is enabled). Cool 'n' Quiet clocks the processor down at times of light load. Evidently you have both these settings enabled, because your clock at idle goes down to 780 MHz.

Active/passive cooling policy is another thing again. Passive slows down the processor before increasing fan speed, active cooling policy increases the fan speed before slowing down the processor.

Active will get you lower temps generally.

My 3.0 GHz Phenom II X4 945 (the 95 watt version) in a Shuttle mini PC, which has a Shuttle "ICE" heat pipe cooler, idles at around the same as yours (800 MHz). I have a fan speed control utility called Speedfan. I am seeing idle temps around 23 - 25 C and on full load the speed goes to 3000 MHz and the temp goes up to around 38-40 C. I do not know how the Shuttle ICE compares with other types of cooler, I do not think it is an especially powerful cooler, so you ought to be seeing comparable figures if your set up is halfway decent. It sounds like things are OK. The maximum allowed CPU temp for the AMD quads is around 70 -72 so I do not really think you need to stay away from gaming.

trevorpe
You need to start your own topic.@Broni
This was originally started by me, I'm just continuing on it or should I start a new topic again?

@ Salmon Trout
I can manage about 28 degrees celcius, idle, but when I try converting video my temps can go as high as 60 or more (I think... the Motherboard buzzer goes off and it's set for 60 and my monitoring program SEEMS to agree). I'm still thinking about a new cooler, the WAY I see it is that I'm sure it couldn't do any harm?