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Hello everyone, I'm here again and unfortunately I need help again, this time with my audio hardware.

I bought a Trust headset + mic some months ago and it worked just fine untill 3 or 4 DAYS ago when the people I called on skype couldn't hear me anymore. Weird fact, they heard what I was listening to from my headphones, like input and output audio were messed up. I didn't change any setting recently, so I really don't know what's gone wrong. I CHECKED that the jacks were in the correct places, that the mic was working (tested it on another computer) and looked if it was muted from Control Panel, downloaded LATEST driver for my audio card and tried to solve the problem from Realtek Audio Manager but I failed. Also, I'm pretty sure it's not a skype problem since my mic doesn't even work in Windows Record or whatever it's called.


I'm using Windows 7 and have a Realtek HD audio card. I'm also posting a PIC of my control panel audio settings so you can notice that while I play music from Windows Media Player the microphone "input" bar goes up like I'm speaking, which is really strange.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us




I hope you can help me and forgive me for my bad english and awfull format!
WolfheartMake sure the headset is the default input audio device in Control Panel - SoundsHello,
I'm pretty sure that both the headset and the mic are the default output / input devices in Control Panel and everywhere elseYou could try following this site : http://www.ehow.com/how_6499927_use-headset-microphone-not-working.htmlQuote from: Wolfheart on September 27, 2010, 10:36:59 PM

Hello,
I'm pretty sure that both the headset and the mic are the default output / input devices in Control Panel and everywhere else

@Jason, unfortunately my computer has not a built-in mic...

@Allan, I double checked it and as you can see in the screenshots both the headphones (output) and mic (input) are default (you can barely see "dispositivo predefinito" under them, which is the italian for "default device" )

I recently purchased a new LaCie External Harddrive (1TB "hard disk by Neil Poulton") for computer backup and media storage.

Upon USB connection I heard the connection sound and saw the device driver searching/installing in the system tray. This particular device (according to the manual) should show up in My Computer for subsequent formatting/partitioning; however, it does not show up.

Therefore I have done neither formatting or partitioning (unless someone has bought this and returned it, I saw some fingerprints on it but I thought these might be from the factory)

It does, however, show up in Disk Management as "Disk 5 Basic 931.50GB Online" (image attached). I've read in several FORUMS that all ONE MUST do is assign the disk a drive letter for it to show up in My Computer, but this option doesn't seem to be available. RIGHT clicking on the Disk 5 area produces "properties" and "help", Right clicking on the green Free Space area (or on Disk Management in the right pane ->Tools) produces "New Simple Volume", "DELETE Partition" and "Help".

Out of frustration I tried clicking New Simple Volume but upon finishing the wizard it said that that there was not enough disk space available. Was too scared to Delete Partition as I didn't know the effects (although I never made one anyway).

I don't see the LaCie in the device manager (image attached).

I am running Windows Vista 32 bit with Service Pack 2, I attached an image of other system info.

Thank you for you time,
D.


[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]It shipped un-formatted...
Right clik it in Disk Management and select Format...choose NTFS.

Yes, I realize it shipped un-formatted.

In my post I mentioned that I have only "New Simple Volume", "Delete Partition" and "Help" when right-clicking, would "delete partition" allow other options to surface?

Thanks,
D. Select Delete Partition...then format it...Thank you sir! I now have a recognized Harddrive.
Regards,
D.

I have this laptop that when you turn it on it will power up for about 2 seconds and then will automatically turn off. It then restarts and will go on and off. I needed to get a new battery for it which has been installed. I was told that I need to sync the new battery to the laptop. Any help would be appreciated.How far along the booting process does it get before it restarts? What's the last thing you see?

Remove the battery and try booting with just the adapter only. Will it boot NORMALLY?It does not get to the point that I can see ANYTHING. It does the same thing with or without the battery.1) I never heard of syncing a battery.
2) If it does the same thing with or without the power supply, the problem has nothing to do with the battery.
3) It certainly sounds like a hw problem - could be ram. I suggest you download, BURN and run MEMTEST to check your ram: http://www.memtest.org/Quote from: familygeek on September 30, 2010, 02:31:45 AM

I was told that I need to sync the new battery to the laptop.

1) I never heard of syncing a battery.

Hi there

None of the audio SOFTWARE I use (mainly Wavepad) will record audio from the "Stereo Mix" when my external Creative Soundblaster Live 24-it soundcard is plugged in, though recording works fine (though in lower QUALITY) when it is not plugged in.

I am RUNNING Windows 7 on an ASUS K72F laptop.

Can ANYONE PLEASE help?

When i start COMPUTER my the mouse and keyboard weren't working.. so after a few restart the computer would only get to the part where the mouse shows then the computer restarts...

Right now my computer works because I'm running windows 7 32bit from a DIFFERENT HDD..

What could the problem be?

thanksMore info...Quote from: patio on October 01, 2010, 07:37:43 PM

More info...

theres nothing wrong hardware wise but I've been told that there was something wrong with my driver signature enforcement.. but right now i cant even do anything when i get to the welcome screen its just reboots. is there a tool that can diagnose the startup. i know there a tool like that in the boot menu but that one didn't help at all.

I am interested in upgrading the RAM on my ACER Revo, I noticed different pin counts and got a little leery about just ordering some and I really don't care to know about it to be honest, I just want to add another GB or two to improve Blender and PS PERFORMANCE, also I want non clippy HD, so what do I buy and do I have to worry about anything to do with dual channels and such etc...?Visit the Crucial page and they have a fantastic Memory ADVISOR that will guide you to the exact type of memory you need.

http://www.crucial.com/Presto

Good. THANK You.

Lately it has been more and more difficult to turn my computer on. The usual procedure is for the 'Acer' screen to display briefly where I can enter setup if I need to, then goes to a screen where I can CHOOSE the normal OS or the Windows Recovery Console. The pc has either been freezing at the 'Acer' screen or when it gets to the next screen, or instead of the 2nd screen displaying instead I just get a black screen with "veryifying DMI pool data" right at the top. I have to keep turning the pc off and on until it finally works (which is getting longer and longer - today took me 20 goes). I have followed the steps at CH000474 to no avail. Is this a sign that I need a new HDD? (I have backed up all my data just in case). I have an Acer Aspire T180-UB7Z, running Windows XP Media Centre Edition Service Pack 3, HDD is a ST3160812AS.

Many thanks in advance for any help. You've followed all of the steps at CH000474 including a format and reinstall?
Actually no, that is the one step I didn't do. I am not really very computer savvy and have never done such a thing and wouldn't really know where to start. I really want to avoid if poss just in case my backup fails (I know it shouldn't, but am nervous about relying on it just in case) - is there a way I can test my back up is ok without loading it? Would like to try all possible alternatives first really.Just to make sure, you've checked the drive cable, made sure there was no disk in the floppy or CD drives, ran fixmbr from the recovery conslole. Is that right? Have you tried loading BIOS default SETTINGS?

How did you go about making your backup?Do I have to open up the pc to check the drive cable? There is definitely nothing in the cd drive, floppy or sd card slots. Don't know what fixmbr is - how do I find it please once I enter the recovery console? Re BIOS settings, when I went into the set up I entered the CMOS settings and BIOS settings and selected the reset to default F7 key (nothing seemed to change) - is that what you mean?

Used Nero BackItUp to make my backup of each drive (compaq, C and D) to an EXTERNAL hard drive. Should i use kaspersky that I have installed to scan the external hard drive, or is there another way to scan it to make sure there are no errors?

I wouldn't worry about loose cables right now. It could be PRETTY much anything, but for now I'd suggest you boot to your XP Cd and choose the first repair option. That will take you to the recovery console. Once there, run chkdsk /rQuote from: Allan on September 26, 2010, 06:53:35 AM

I wouldn't worry about loose cables right now. It could be pretty much anything, but for now I'd suggest you boot to your XP Cd and choose the first repair option. That will take you to the recovery console. Once there, run chkdsk /r

Actually, everyone with XP should install the recovery console as a boot option, but hardly anyone does. Now you know why it's a good idea.

It has been awhile since i had this problem , but recently it has worsent..
Previously , My Monitor always have no signal from the CPU . The Lights and Fan On My CPU is On , but monitor gets no signal. (However , once in awhile , after multiple restarts i can have it up and running.)
Now, restarting so many times still didint HELP .. I Realised i have to do something. I am a Noob In hardware , hope you guys will teach me

After SEARCHING many forums , i tried out many things.. in hope it will get working.
Below are what i have tried.

1) Re-Seating RAM, 1 by 1 ( I Got 4 Ram)
2) Changing The Battery Of CMOS ( or BIOS .. Whatever you call it )
3) Checked all Wires and Cables
4) New Working Monitor


Note: Suprisingly , my monitor got some signal . i was over joyed... for the wrong reason.. it loads windows XP and goes on to say Bios CheckSum Error. and it goes to checking for CD , Storage Device and etc.. forever...
Can SomeOne HEELP ME PLEASE

Try another CMOS battery...
It should be replaced with all power to the machine disconnected.[Updates]
I Heard a soft beep . But Still No Signal [Updates] What's a soft beep ? ?
a faint beep .. very soft.. wont hear it if u dont PAY close attentionQuote from: DarkHeavens on October 01, 2010, 07:27:47 PM

a faint beep .. very soft.. wont hear it if u dont pay close attention

so i bought parts and built..


Rampage III Extreme: tested at store, works

Intel CORE i7 950: tested in friends comp, works

XFX Radeon HD 5970 Black Edition: tested in friends comp, works

3x2GB Corsair XMS3 CHS DDR3 1600 CL: tested individually in all slots and also friends memory 2GB witch works fine, ram works

1000W power supply, works


Tested outside case, it doesen't short it out.
all cables checked many times.
tested with other monitors as well as resetting cmos



everything seems ok but no post beep/signal.
please help me! i dont wanna pay 50-60€ for fixing this.MBoard standoffs in place ? ?
Thermal PASTE applied correctly ? ?
New or used PSU ? ?

PS: Is this your 1st BUILD ? ?standoffs in place
thermal paste factory applied.
brand new psu, yes big enough. calculted was 750W recommended
PS. I'm experienced, built maybe 5-10 or so.
What happens with only 1 twoG stck of RAM ? ?No beep/signl. not any difference at allTry booting with only PSU, Mobo and Video card only(No RAM) if it will produce a POST beep/s sound or display message. Then with 1 RAM(good) inserted(testing on either slot on every reboot). What brand PSU is this ? ?Xilence 1000W REDWINGBorrow a known good one of at least 750W and swap it in there...

Not sure if it's the culprit here but it won't cost a dime to ttry it out and see...

Some interesting feedback on that brand can be found Here...

Best of Luck.

Hi,

I have recently purchased a new Western Digital Caviar IDE Hard drive for my older Hp Pavilion 7955 Desktop. The other hard drive died on me about a month back. The factory hard drive was a 40 gig and the new one I purchased is a 500 gig.

Anyway I ran into a little problem...When I boot off the windows XP CD I am able to begin the install. However when the COMPUTER restarts part way through the install I receive a message saying that it cannot find the hard drive. I called Western Digital about this ISSUE and they said that the new hard drive requires an 80 pin IDE cable and the cable I have in the computer is most likely a 40pin IDE.

My question is would simply purchasing an 80 pin IDE cable let me use this hard drive or am I screwed and have to send the hard drive back?Yes.
It should solve it.
Didn't you recieve a cable with the drive ? ?Sadly no...I ordered it from New Egg.Well I replaced the cable but went back into the BIOS and no hard drive is listed...This is strange. Why would Windows setup pick up the hd but not bios?

Upon turning the computer on I receive this message.

Detecting Primary Master
Detecting Primary Slave None
Secondary Master - CD
Secondary Slave - DVD

Primary Master Drive Fails

(Note this is the only HD in the computer and it has no jumpers in it currently).

Beneath this message it allows me to access the BIOS or continue. If I continue I go through the XP install process from the CD and then I receive the auto reboot message and it will bring me back to the same screen that I posted with the Drives again with the choice to continue...so it is an endless cycle that doesnt allow me to get past the initial stage of installing the OS.

Hope that makes sense. If BIOS doesn't see it, it's not going to work. MOTHERBOARD may not support a drive that big.
http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=936&p_created=1049500809&p_sid=x8LRRpbk&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_srch=1&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9OTYsOTYmcF9wcm9kcz0yMjcsMjk1JnBfY2F0cz0xMjMmcF9wdj0yLjI5NSZwX2N2PTEuMTIzJnBfcGFnZT0y&p_li=&p_topview=1




http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=981&p_created=1052339456&p_sid=x8LRRpbk&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_srch=1&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9OTYsOTYmcF9wcm9kcz0yMjcsMjk1JnBfY2F0cz0xMjMmcF9wdj0yLjI5NSZwX2N2PTEuMTIzJnBfcGFnZT0x&p_li=&p_topview=1#patadesktopjumpWould updating BIOS fix the problem?Quote from: Ecardius on October 01, 2010, 01:47:46 PM

Would updating BIOS fix the problem?

I just recently bought a new sound card. It's a Rocketfish 5.1 PCI. My old one fried idk what happen to it so i bought a new one. I put it together in the computer took the old one out then turned on the computer. I put in the disk and GOT a message "System is unable to detect a SUPPORTED product on your system. Please ensure that your product is properly installed before running this setup program. Setup will exit. I tried taking it out reputting it back in same thing. Computer cannot detect it any idea why it wont? I was told to update my BIOS tried and still.Download & INSTALL drivers: http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/p-171-rocketfish-51-channel-pci-sound-card.aspxI have the CD...Ok computer detect and everything installed right but now I still have no sound out of my headphones nor my speakers wowBad speaker or headphone connection.Or your sound parameters are not set right--such as sources are "muted". truenorthi have the same problem as the first post idk what to do someone please help me! i called the *censored* rocketfish PEOPLE and they could not help. THANKS

I WANTED to ask what I need to do to slave one harddrive to another so I can copy data between them? Do I need to change anything in the BIOS? Both are SATA drives. They're both FORMATTED with XP pro, but I know I only need the operating system on one of them. Does it MATTER which cable GOES to which one and does it matter which cable plugs into which of the two sata plugs on the motherboard? Do I need to do anything with the jumpers?

Thanks.



http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/Broni, don't think that link would work for him since he's doing SATA and the link is for PATA. SATA drives are not like PATA (IDE/EIDE) drives, so there is not a "slave" drive when it comes to a SATA drive, they all plug directly into the host adapter.

Do I need to change anything in the BIOS?

- No the BIOS will automatically detect SATA drives.

Both are SATA drives. They're both formatted with XP pro, but I know I only need the operating system on one of them. Does it matter which cable goes to which one and does it matter which cable plugs into which of the two sata plugs on the motherboard?

- Plug the SATA drive you want to have with Windows (primary) in the first connection.

Do I need to do anything with the jumpers?

- No SATA jumpers are USUALLY only used for factory settings.


* PS moving this to hardware since it's not network related.Quote from: alen on September 30, 2010, 03:20:30 AM

...Both are SATA drives. They're both formatted with XP pro, but I know I only need the operating system on one of them.../quote]
Set Boot Order in BIOS (CMOS Setup).

Broni, don't think that link would work for him since he's doing SATA and the link is for PATA. SATA drives are not like PATA (IDE/EIDE) drives, so there is not a "slave" drive when it comes to a SATA drive, they all plug directly into the host adapter.

Simple question, hope to get a simple answer. Looking to buy a joy STICK for a favourite game of MINE, PACIFIC Fighters. I have an Intel Core 2 Duo processor. The Logitech literature for the joy stick states it is programmed for Pentium. So, can the Intel Core 2 Duo ACCOMMODATE it or is it totally different? ThanksThe 3 D Pro will work

Hi, new member here.
I need some help with a sound issue in one of my racing games. I am only having a problem with one sound (Engine) in Nascar N2003. All other sounds and other games, MUSIC, ect are fine.

I had on board sound and installed a Turtle Beach Riviera sound card hoping to resolve the issue.
The engine sound is now ok, but when I start to drive the car, the volume drops and a CONSTANT volume wind LIKE noise COMES in.
Sound quality in other games is now much worse.

Would a better sound card, i.e. Creative SB Xtreame Gamer card be a better choice and hopefully resolve this issue. I really don't want to toss $100.00 out the window if it won't work.

I appreciate your suggestions.Just GUESSING on this one. I would try the game [if possible] on another PC as a test to see if same pblm. happensHave done that and it works fine on old computer with ac97 on board sound.
I wish i could give you an anser on this,if i said to buy another card and you end up having the same PBLM. you wouldnt be a happy person.I would contact tech support on the card you are using &see if they can help you on this pblm. keep in touch

Hello guys.Im new in this forum and i found it interesting to visit and i learn something in here. But i was looking at some of the topics and unfortunately, i wasn;t able to find it.

My problem is that my computer was down and it beeps so long and i am suspecting that there is something wrong with the memory.

I tried pulling out the RAM and clean it by brushing the slot cause it is also dirty as well as well as the other slot. When i put it back, it still beeps long as it seems like it does not detect the memory. I have one extra RAM and it is DDR184.Is it the same at pc133?

Could anybody help me out with this thing?pleeeeaaaaasssssssseeeeeee.... You need to be very careful when cleaning you motherboard. Static electricity can fry your computer. Make sure you are GROUNDED when you touch the cicuit boards. Keep one arm on the metal frame the WHOLE time you are working in there. The best way to clean it out is by using a can of compressed air.

That beeping may be your RAM but it could be caused by other things as well. Place on stick back in and then reseat you video card.I already pull out the video to check if it the video card that causes it to beep but still the same. Will be ok to replace it with any other DDR memory?You should be using a can of compressed air to clean out those slots...available at any PC store.

What happened prior to this ? ?
Is this RAM different than what was in the machine prior to this ? ?

To determine what RAM will work in that machine travel to Crucial.com and enter your machine info...you don't have to buy it there but it will give you the info you need.

There are a lot of types/speeds of RAM and you can't just use anything in most machines...Prior to this RAM, it was ok. This was started when i bring to our second house.and I carry it inside our van. When i turned it on, that's the error already.

There was no other RAM prior to that RAM inside that machine.Quote from: sidi_sphinx1908 on November 03, 2008, 07:13:21 PM

Prior to this RAM, it was ok. This was started when i bring to our second house.and I carry it inside our van. When i turned it on, that's the error already.

There was no other RAM prior to that RAM inside that machine.

Alright.. So, I installed a linksys wireless adapter.. then booted my computer and it gave me some beep CODES. I had messed with the RAM recently so I checked the RAM and it was not secured all the way. I fixed that and booted again. All of a sudden, I am having Disk Boot Failure, insert system disk.. blah blah.. So.. I have checked the boot order, it is correct. I have checked all the DRIVES. I have checked the cables ( they are good as far as I can tell) And.. I do not have a XP disc or an HP REPAIR disk.. Also, I am unable to read the screen quick enough to see if my hard drive is being picked up in the boot process. So.. Can someone please help me out?

Thanks,
- Sir Screw -Can you get into safe mode by tapping F8 upon re boot?No, I can not get into Safe Mode or into F10 System Restore..
Any ideas?

Thanks,
- Sir Screw -Install a OSWhat Operating System are we working with?Lol.. got it under control.. SATA power was not connected PROPERLY..
Thanks for the help though..

- Sir Screw - Even self-help works very good on this board Quote from: Broni on November 05, 2008, 08:11:40 PM

Even self-help works very good on this board

Good Afternoon,

I need someone to help me and who understands how the bios works for the Armada M700. I have TRIED to get hp to help but no go. Product to old to support. Here is my dilemma:

I am trying to update my disk drive. Currently there is a toshiba 6gb (mk6014gap) drive that works just fine with a successful install of WindowsXP. I have a toshiba 30gb (mk3014gap) drive and a seagate 60gb drive (st960822a). I cannot get the bios to successfully recognize the 30gb or 60gb drive when installed as a master in the HD bay. If I place these in an external usb hd enclosure, win xp recognizes them just fine and can be formatted and full functional. If I try to install windows xp onto this via the enclosure, it GIVES me a message that it cannot install because it cannot access the drive. Here is the message:

*****Your computer's startup program cannot gain access to the disk containing the partition or free space you chose. Setup cannot install windows xp on this hard disk.

This lack of access does not necessarily indicate an error condition. For example, disks attached to a SCSI adapter that wasn't installed by your computer manufacturer or to a secondary hard disk controller, are typically not visible to the startup program unless special software is used. Contact your computer or hard disk controller manufacturer for more information.

On x86-based computers, this message may indicate a problem with the cmos drive type settings. See your disk controller documentation for more information.*****

If the 30gb or 60gb drive is installed in the hd bay, when I boot I either get a message 1780-disk 0 failure or 1782-disk controller failure. I even have seen this message, disk parameter table or bios error system.

I have tried a great deal of way to troubleshoot this. I have tried using tweakbios and have had no luck. I even tried updating/installing intel controller drivers. I even went as far as trying hp's biosconfigutility.exe which is part of system software manager and had no luck. I have UPDATED my bios to the LATEST revision that is posted on the hp website. Due to the limited bios settings (compaq shadows/hides a majority of there bios settings on this laptop), I need to either modify the disk parameter table, enable lba, enable udma, or enable both lba and udma. As you can see it is getting to the fact that it is all relative to the bios of the m700. On another note, I can take the 30gb & 60gb drive and install it into a gateway solo 9500 with pheonix bios and have no problems with the drives being installed as master in the hd bay of the gateway. I am not happy with the fact that compaq had to LIMIT bios settings on this model. I think these are great compact computers, but **** when it comes to dealing with the bios.

Thanks,
348patterson

ok i have computer that has had it's on/off button WIRE ripped from the buttons themselves ( somehow), i was wondering if there was some way to temporarily reattach them or should i just BUY another one (which i'm not trying to do).You could solder it.
Any contact switch will work FINE, EVEN shorting the wires with a screwdriver or something else conductive is OK.
Or, salvage an on/off switch, or a case, from another computer.
Hope this helps.OK how old is this kid ? ?

SATA Hard Drives have two cables one for Power and one for Data.

When I look up how they work on the web I can't find what I need.

Is the SATA Data cable 15 pin and if so when I see a picture of one it ONY has 4. wire out of the back???

And what does the Power cable look like and the Color codes for the wires.

I seem to get the run a round on the web??Sata power cable and pinouts are shown on this site. There can be 5 cables, or 4 if the +3.3v is not required, and there are 15 pins.. Please read....

Sata data cable has 7 cables and 7 pins and is shown here..

Quote

When I look up how they work on the web I can't find what I need.
I seem to get the run a round on the web??

I think I souild start off slow because I am missing something.

SATA Cable has 5. or 4. Cables and 15 Pins.

Is this the Data Cable??

SATA was introduced to upgrade the ATA interface (also called IDE) to a more advanced design. SATA includes both a data cable and a power cable. The power cable replaces the old 4 pin peripheral cable and ADDS support for 3.3 volts (if fully implemented). The connector is shaped so it can only be plugged in the correct way.

You have to be careful about SATA power cables. Some of them are missing the 3.3 volt wire. PEOPLE with older power supplies often use adapters which convert from 4 pin peripheral cables to SATA power cables. But since 4 pin peripheral connectors only supply 5 and 12 volts, the SATA connector is missing 3.3 volts (there's no orange wire). There are also a few older power supplies which inexplicably have SATA power cables which are missing the 3.3 volt wire. Currently, SATA drives rarely use 3.3 volts. That may be because there are too many people using adapters so the drive makers don't want the headaches which come with using 3.3 volts. But in the future, 3.3 volt drives may become common so you need to be careful when using SATA power cables which don't implement 3.3 volts.

Ok if the Power Connector for SATA has 15 Pins why does it only have 5. Wires going into it?

Pinouts are:
pins 1, 2 and 3 +3.3v cable color Orange
pins 4, 5 and 6 Ground cable color Black
pins 7, 8 and 9 +5.0v cable color Red
pins 10, 11 and 12 Ground cable color Black
pins 13, 14 and 15 +12.0v cable color Yellow

Ok so the SATA Power Cable has 15 Pins but 5. Wires because every 3. Pins goes to just one Wire RIGHT??

i have this problem just as this time. my newly installed computer does not have any sound output. my motherboard is msi ms7312 ver 1.0. i have checked the DEVICE manager there are no problems with the drivers. i TRIED to put a new sound card ESS but still there is no any sound comes out from my headset/speaker. can anyone HELP me with this?What do you MEAN by "my newly installed computer"? New build, or new from the store?im sorry.. what i mean is newly installed with OS, its xp sp2I still don't understand. Did you reinstall Windows?

About 3 WEEKS ago the audio on my Dell Inspiron E1505 vanished!! I tried the following unsucessfully so far:

restored to an earlier date when the audio worked

downloaded the Sigmatel STAC92XX-C driver from the Dell site and got the following error message when I tried to install:
"device object not present restart the system & run setup again"; when I restart the add hardware wizzard tries to install the device but I get the following error message: "the I/O operation has been aborted because a THREAD exit or an application request"

tried to install from a safe boot and from the Vista upgrade CD provided by Dell

I am using SRS Audio SANDBOX (sound enhancer) which is listed as the speakers when I move the cursor under the volume icon on the taskbar. I uninstalled it and repeated the installation steps again but with the same results.

I scoured a number of technical forums and see that there are a number of issues with Sigmatel drivers but haven't found a solution yet. I tried everything I COULD think of!!

I am running Vista SP1 and would greatly appreciate any assistance.
Thanks.Try this patch: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/937077OK thanks. I'll let you KNOW how it works out.I'll be here

Yesterday morning I woke up to discover that my computer's audio suddenly possessed a strange scratchy sound. I leave my computer on 24/7 and had watched a movie on it the night before, so the distortion came as some surprise to me. The distortion is definitely coming from the computer itself, as it remains even when I change the speakers. I'm pretty sure it's not a problem of codecs, because I installed new codecs and the distortion didn't change, and furthermore it's present in every sound the computer plays, from the CHIMES that accompany Windows XP opening to the sound from internet video like youtube and it's even present in in-game audio on Dawn of War. This seems to indicate that it's a problem with the card itself (I have SigmaTel integrated card). It's not a problem with the port, as the scratch is present on both the inputs in the back and the headphone input in front. I tried reinstalling the drivers, and here is where the really weird part starts. I went to Dell's website and put in my serial NUMBER and it came up with my system specs and the original drivers for all my hardware. When I downloaded the audio driver and tried to install it, it gave me an error message and SAID that "this is not the correct audio driver for this system."

Right now I'm ready to buy a new soundblaster USB card, but I thought I might as well check and see if anyone could save me 60 bucks with any suggestions of how to fix things.If you have a on board sound [you should] i would uninstall your present card and try using the on board as a testAs I understand it, onboard sound is what I'm currently using.You're not alone with that problem: See Here...
See also here: http://www.edbott.com/weblog/?p=1965 about one of Windows updates, which pushes incorrect driver.Neither of the drivers linked to in that article install properly. I get the same error message Download, and install Everest: http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
Open it, click Computer, then Summary.
In upper menu, go Report>Quick Report-Summary
Save it in text file, and paste it in your next post.
Don't include anything under line Debug - PCI --------[ EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

Version EVEREST v2.20.405
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report
Computer D9QHJF91
Generator Paul
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Media Center Edition 5.1.2600 (WinXP RETAIL)
Date 2008-11-05
Time 08:26


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Computer:
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Media Center Edition
OS Service Pack Service Pack 3
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name D9QHJF91
User Name Paul

Motherboard:
CPU Type Intel Pentium 4 630, 3033 MHz (15 x 202)
Motherboard Name Dell Dell DM051
Motherboard Chipset Intel Lakeport-G i945G
System Memory 512 MB (DDR2-533 DDR2 SDRAM)
BIOS Type Phoenix (10/13/05)

Display:
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT (256 MB)
MONITOR Plug and Play Monitor [NoDB] (M1P8470R00531)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter Intel 82801GB ICH7 - High Definition Audio Controller [A-1]

Storage:
IDE Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) Ultra ATA Storage Controllers - 27DF
IDE Controller Intel(R) 82801GB/GR/GH (ICH7 Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller - 27C0
SCSI/RAID Controller SCSI/RAID Host Controller
Disk Drive WDC WD800JD-75MSA1 (74 GB, IDE)
Disk Drive ST350082 0AS USB Device (465 GB, USB)
Optical Drive HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GWA4164B
SMART Hard Disks Status OK

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 71468 MB (15876 MB free)
F: (FAT32) 476821 MB (221483 MB free)
Total Size 535.4 GB (231.8 GB free)

Input:
Keyboard HID Keyboard Device
Mouse HID-compliant mouse

Network:
Network Adapter Intel(R) PRO/100 VE Network Connection (67.80.136.19)
Modem Intel(R) 537EP V9x DF PCI Modem

Peripherals:
Printer Fax
Printer hp psc 1310 series
USB1 Controller Intel 82801GB ICH7 - USB Universal Host Controller [A-1]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801GB ICH7 - USB Universal Host Controller [A-1]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801GB ICH7 - USB Universal Host Controller [A-1]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801GB ICH7 - USB Universal Host Controller [A-1]
USB2 Controller Intel 82801GB ICH7 - Enhanced USB2 Controller [A-1]
USB Device USB Human Interface Device
USB Device USB Human Interface Device
USB Device USB Mass Storage Device


So I searched this "Intel 82801GB ICH7 - High Definition Audio Controller [A-1]" which brought me here http://cr.am/framed.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fdownloadcenter.intel.com%2Ffilter_results.aspx%3FstrTypes%3Dall%26ProductID%3D2068%26OSFullName%3DWindows*%2BXP%2BProfessional%26lang%3Deng%26strOSs%3D44%26submit%3DGo%2521&ref=driverguide

So i downloaded that driver, installed it, and got to the end before I got an error that said "_Exiterror:error=device object not present, restart the system and run setup again." In the course of installing, I got a "found new hardware" popup that said it found my HD Audio Hub. So I restarted, and the new hardware popup came again on restart. I opened Itunes, and my sound seems to work fine now. However, I tried running that driver install again, and got the same message telling me to restart. I'm tempted to leave it as it is for now, but any advice?Try Intel site: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/default.aspx, #7That driver worked. Thanks a bunch for the help.Yes!!

Title says it, looking for a new sound card and my budget is up to $180-$200.
Right now I'm using ONBOARD for the Asus P5N-E

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131142

Any good suggestions would help. Thanks.this is all you need...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829156005Any reason the onboard ASUS sound chip doesn't fit your needs ?Quote from: homer on November 06, 2008, 06:08:21 PM

this is all you need...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829156005

I've gotten vid cards for that price ! !

Hi all, I RUN a Packard Bell 6810 SLI with a RAID HD, 2 GB RAM and 512 Mb SLI Nvidia Graphics.A couple of years ago I purchased Driver Detective but didn't use it, and lost it during a PC crash.A week ago I re-downloaded it and ran it on my laptop, a Fujitsu Siemens C Series Lifebook.Everything seemed to go well, so I moved on to my 6810.
I worked through the drivers till I came to Bluetooth.Zonealarm warned me that "WIDDCOMM" carried a suspected Trojan but I carried on and downloaded it.On restarting my PC, it just endlessly started and restarted - I would get the grey Packard Bell screen then the Windows XP black screen with the loading bar then shutdown and so on.I tapped F5 and tried every option, none of which worked, although when I clicked "Disable Restart" I got a blue screen with a message about system failure and a series of numbers."Recovery Mode" asked me a question then "Y/N" but I never know how to work this.
After thinking, I realised that D Drive had nothing on it so I decided to try installing Windows XP on it, and this worked.I found that I was able to extract my 3D train Simulator and "My Pictures" from C Drive and save them to a Mini Hard drive, so they are safe.On looking further it seems I may have deleted some important Drivers since there is a list of devices without Drivers.
The status quo at the moment is that my PC has C Drive with Windows XP Pro on it, but if I try to start XP Pro it SIMPLY restarts again and again.
If I select XP Home edition it starts normally , but in D Drive.
The PC will not connect to the Internet, so I spoke to my ISP ( Post Office) last night and the guy there said it would be a Master/Slave arrangement and the only answer would probably be to erase C Drive and re install Windows XP Pro on it.
I am unsure what to do.I know I can uninstall by reformatting C Drive but my knowledge ends there.
Any help gratefully appreciated.
P.S i have read VARIOUS posts about Driver Detective here and suffice to say I won't be using it again.A clean install may be the only way out...
The manuf. site is the best place for drivers.
DLoad; install and run Everest Home and have it run a report...save it as a text file and post the Computer Summary portion of it here...Thanks patio.The problem, is that at the moment the PC will not connect to the Internet so I apparently cannot download anything.The guy at the Post Office ISP said I would not be able to access the Internet from D drive as the PC would run a "Master/Slave arrangement" whereby the Internet was accessed from C Drive?
I have taken the precaution of copying Windows in its entirety from C Drive to my Mini Hard Drive.Would I be right in thinking that if I erase C Drive altogether I can then re-install Windows XP Pro from the copy on my MHD? I was quite lucky in that I kept my original PC (a Packard Bell 6052) but it cannot run the Trainz Classics 3 Rail Simulator as it has insufficient RAM and only a 256 Mb Graphics Card.Simply copying Windows will not allow you to re-copy it and have it run...it will not work.
Do you have a Windows CD for re-installing ? ?
For the Everest Home program which will tell you/us everything that is in that machine see if you can have a friend DLoad it for you and burn it to a CD or throw it on a flash drive if you have USB connectors available on that machine.

Just don't be hasty until we know what you've got here so you don't wind up losing everything...
RAM is pretty inexpensive right now as well and that's an upgrade we can help you do yourself that will give a decent performance boost...the best bang for the buck for right now.

Keep us posted.OK...I was hasty and decided to try reformatting C Drive.It took about 2.5 hours and at the end of it the PC announced that reformatting couldn't be completed so I was back to Square One.
I then tried using the Packard Bell disks, followed the instructions as best I could and was told there was a "Glue Error" (?)
I then inserted the "Recovery" Disk I was given since when PC World sold me the PC they couldn't find the Master CD's.It looked promising till I was asked "System Number" which, being an ordinary dude, I had no idea what it meant.
So like all true Brits. I gave up.
At the moment I have downloaded Everest to my Mini Hard Drive and I am going to attempt checking C Drive with that.
Re RAM, that isn't the problem.I have 3 PCs - the Packard Bell 6810, a Packard Bell 4052 and a Fujitsu Siemens laptop.
The Train Simulator is more or less a benchmark of PC power.The 6810 runs it easily, when it works. The train simulator loads onto the 6052, but its incapable of running it to insufficient RAM and graphics , which I updated myself to enable it to run a previous version of the train sim. The Fujitsu Siemens laptop has insufficient RAM or graphics to run the train sim and at the moment I am strapped for cash so buying upgrades is out of the question.
Thanks for being patient with me.P.S I have a Windows XP Home CD, but not a Windows XP Pro CD as this was installed by a "friend of a friend" a few months ago after the hard drive expired.OK so where do you want to go from here and what are your goals for this machine ? ?Just remember, if at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.Sorry I DISAPPEARED like that guys - I had a friend round for a few days
Patio, at the moment my goals for the machine are 1) To erase C Drive completely and install Windows XP Home on it, so that I can run my train Simulator on it.2) To reconnect it the Internet. Thats BASICALLY it.
I tried System Recovery and eventually found the System Serial Number on a sticker placed conveniently on the back of the very heavy PC at the bottom.However I was told I had a "Glue Part Error" and I don't know what that is so I had to exit.
On trying it another way I got the message "Exit from OEMSetup D:\_ " and didn't know what I was supposed to type after that.
I have also been told "Device Error Code 7680
DOS Error Code 8
Sector Not Found"
and another time "Device 1002:7146 Not found" in red.
So in a nutshell I cannot erase C disc.First things first...you need to get on a machine with Internet access and travel to the machine manuf. website and DLoad the motherboard drivers for that machine.
You may also want to grab the sound; network and video drivers also but some are included all in one package.
Unless you have the Driver CD that shipped with the machine...if so you can skip the above step.


Here is an excellent Guide to a clean install of XP....
Thanks Patio. I have a CD ROM with "recovery" written on in red pen because PC World couldn't find the master discs.And the Master Discs themselves which they found later and sent to me. I have tried running all 3 as "boot first CD ROM" to no avail.
I will try to follow your other advice and see if I get anywhere.If it says Recovery in red pen then all bets are off...

Every time i use my cd drive, and every time it sounds like its spining WAY too fast and woblling. Its never, in over 5 years, done this. Its made by LG. The speed is: 52x24x 52x. I dont what its called, but it can write and rewrite any kind cd (except cd-rom, of course.) OH and its internal.Brand NEW dual-layer DVD drives are about 40 bucks shipped now from newegg.com if you're in the States...

Sounds like yours has given up the ghost...Is there any way to fix it? if not, can a external cd or dvd using usb install any os? Finaly, are BLU ray drives compatible with cd and dvd? Can a BR writer write cds and dvds?1) For the price they are not worth fixing.
2)Your system needs to support booting to a USB device to be able to load an OS from an external drive.
3)Blu-ray drives will read CD's and DVD's.
4)Depending on which drive you buy Blu-Ray drives will burn CD's DVD's and in some cases dual layer DVD's.

They will not burn in blu ray format.

i have a dvd-rom/cd WRITER. id like to ask what's wrong with my DEVICE. The PROBLEM is that, whenever i load new cd/dvd disk, at first it will read but later on it can hardly read again. Why is that so?Its possible that the optic [laser] needs cleaning.How old is the drive. Do you have another to test with?How am i going to clean the laser?Is there a need for me to OPEN it or just disc cleaner? It is already 2years old.http://www.amazon.com/Memorex-CD-DVD-Player-Laser-Lens-Cleaner/dp/B00008EM7Ui have a CD/DVD cleaner but still it doesn't WORK. It works the same.Try the device in another machine...if it does the same thing it needs replaced.

Ok, so I just bought some SCSI drives for a sever I am building to help me GET my MCSE. The drives I bought are Compaq 36.4GB Ultra3 10K SCSI. My problem comes from looking at the pictures of it, as I have not received it in the MAIL yet. The connector on the drive looks like its D shaped like a DB connector yet all the ultra3 cables i've seen are rectangular.

I have a theory that this i because the drive is meant to go in a hot swap tray, but I am not using the trays. Also the controller on the mobo is a D shape so this screws my earlier theory but why CANT I find a cable like this? I am also confused as to the pin count some sources say 68 and others say 80 for the same drive.

I am really confused here. THANKS in advance for the help.What's the specific model of the drive?
SCSI cabling and connectors can be confusing so I do know where you're coming from.Model number is: bdo3664545

There is a pic of the label attached

Thanks

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Pic of the drive is nice, but can't see the connector, but is does say Wide Ultra-3 SCSI.
You could count the pins!

This is 68-pin SCSI


http://www.scsita.org/terms/SCSI_Overview.html
Thats what I thought but all the pics I see for the 68 pin ultra 3 look rectangular so it got me nervous.

**I apologize in advance if this is the wrong board for my question! I wasn't SURE, I first posted it under SOFTWARE, but I think that it should have been here. Either way, if I'm in the wrong area, it wasn't intentional!*

I've been using Microsoft Picture It 7.0 for a couple of years now. It was on my computer when I bought it, and has been a great basic photo editing program for me. Yesterday, when I put my card in the SanDisk reader I've also had as long as I've had this program, always has worked completely fine, I get a pop up ERROR message that says my disc needs to be formatted, do I want to format it now? If I click no, the box disappears and I am taken to my pictures folder. If I click yes, I get another pop up box that says disc unable to be formatted. What the heck? I have pics on my disc I really need to download as they are of my CAR I'm trying to sell, and I have no other way to download them, as my camera didn't come with the correct cord. Can someone tell me why this would be happening out of the blue? I've changed nothing on my computer, camera, memory card, nothing. It's all the same equipment I've been using for the past couple of years. Help!This is not uncommon, you should start keeping backups of important data. This might work: http://www.piriform.com/recuvaHow can I keep a back up of something I can't even download? I'm confused....?? I don't need to restore anything, I can't get the photos from my camera/memory card to my computer. I'm totally lost now!What CC is suggesting is to DLoad install and run Recuva...and run it on the memory stick and Copy/Move the recovered files to a folder on your hard drive.

If you format that card ALL your data and pictures will be gone.

You may also want to try that card in another machine as well to retrive and burn to CD what you need.
The Sandisk reader may be the culprit here...So I download that program, hook up my card reader and it'll tell me what to do? I downloaded the program, hooked up my reader and tried to do the scan, but it says "The parameter is incorrect." Quote

You may also want to try that card in another machine as well to retrive and burn to CD what you need.
The Sandisk reader may be the culprit here...

So, I gave up on trying to fix my old computer and I have 2 spare hard drives sitting around, a 250 GB and a 500 GB hard drive. I know you can use HD space as memory to SPEED up your computer, and I was just wondering if using them would give any noticeable difference to my comp.
Also, is it harmful to the computer or hard drives to use them like that at all? =P
Thanks in advanceHard drive memory is not the same as RAM memory...
The memory referred to on drives is storage space...
Adding HDD's will not speed up the machine in any way...it will just add more storage space.

Adding RAM however will add a performance increase.

Hope this clears things up...Umm thanks for the response.
When I go to start menu, right click computer, go to PROPERTIES, go to system properies... under the advanced tab, under performance, under the advanced tab, there's the Virtual Memory section. "A paging file is an area on the hard disk that Windows uses as if it were RAM." That was what I was talking about >< Is that section not used as RAM? I thought by adding additional HD's and setting them up that way would let the computer use them as RAM and speed it up... maybe..
Am I completely off?
Thanks in advance
I'm using Vista btw~Its not gonna help and using a disk like that will cause it to have a very short life as it will be constantly reading and writing and the motor will die prematurely.

Usually when Windows uses your paging file it places files that are not used often in it to prevent "disk thrashing" or like I said earlier reading/writing alot. If you feel like you need more RAM then you should buy more. RAM is much faster than any HDD and is by far the best thing to upgrade in a machine.

If you want to make use of the HDD's try setting up a RAID array. Most motherboards come with a built in controller. Or just using them as backups. Windows has a built-in backup scheduler that will do it all for you, after an initial config of course, and if your main HDD ever fails you can slap in a new one and restore from the backup. You should always have a backup because a HDD will fail its just a matter of time.The swapfile does simulate RAM memory...
However it is limited as to what it can do for a system-wide speedup so i'd say no this would bot give you the performabce boost you're expecting.Thanks, both of you. I'm not too worried about my RAM, it's just I've had one of these HD's sitting around for months and trying to find a use for em Idk what that RAID array is, but I'll def look into it. ThankzI'm not sure a RAID array is a GOOD suggestion considering the info supplied here...1. DISABLING the page file is not a general recommendation for personal computer use
2. There are a number of things you can do to improve performance of your computer. A very simple thing is to not have more than one program running at a time.
3. Adding more hard drive space to your system can improve the performance in some situations. But most home users already have plenty of hard drive space and there would be little advantage to adding another hard drive.

Here is some information about the page file that is important to know for a different reason. Protection of your passwords.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314834
also upgrading parts of your pc ^_^ like memory (RAM), Sound Card, Video Card,Router, Internet Connection,Updating PC Boosters, Scanner and Antivirus ofcourse......Quote from: patio on April 19, 2010, 07:48:31 PM

I'm not sure a RAID array is a good suggestion considering the info supplied here...

I have a old Dell Dimension 8400 that I need to get up and running for my son, But every time I boot it up it says I have low battery power. I guess I need to replace the battery but I WANTED to make SURE of this by asking you guys first.

can I ORDER a NEW battery from Dell or can I get one from best buy or a computer store?. It has windows Xp OS on it. Any help would be very appreciated.The CMOS battery, which is the small battery on the motherboard, can be purchased at a pharmacy or even a supermarket. This is the common CR-2032 model battery; it's about the size of a nickel (5 cent) coin. I bought one at the local Kroger supermarket about a month AGO, for about $3, as I recall.

a NETWORK printer

i can install it in other computer/laptop but THERES one laptop that i cannot install it
that laptop can ping other computer but that laptop cant ping by other computer what is the problem?

urgent help pleaseThe laptop needs to be in the same WORKGROUP as the other machines to network print...im sorry my fault the firewall is up so it blocks everything including printers lol sorry XD

problem solved case close thanks for the REPLY sir

I use a usb KEY to SAVE my data at university, yesterday after i saved 3 of my final pieces it conked out on me.

After hours of trying i finally got my pc to recognise it even exsisted but now it says i need to format the disk and that there is an 8mb partition there and no work. As this is a 1gb usb key this has me very worried.

Is there any chance anyone would know how to solve this problem? If i format it is there any way of restoring the data or is it already LOST?

I cant find any solutions for it so far so can anyone shed some light on what i need to do?

ThanksTry Recuva...

Do NOT format it...as your data will get harder and harder to retrieve.

Also try it in another PC as well.Its obviously too late for this now but do you safely eject the media or do you just YANK it out when your done?

99% of the time youll be fine just yanking it but trust me they do corrupt occasionally. I worked for years with devices that used SD cards for storage and I would get lazy/busy and not safely eject and at least a few a day would need a format and I would LOSE the data on them.

This seems more prevalent in Windows systems with their "delayed write" way of saving to external drives. There is a way to configure a drive to not use delayed write. I believe its under properties when you right click on the drive.

Good luck

hello, I'm fairly new to this forum. I hope to get some advice before I purchase any new hardware. This is my situation:
- whenever I load a game, my computer instantly freezes and vertical stripes run down my monitor as soon as I enter the game.
- funny thing is, once in a while, I am able to get games to work just fine.
- I've experienced this issue on all games from non-demanding (maplestory) to very demanding (bioshock 2, crysis)
- however, I've never had a problem with mass effect 2 (weird)
-most of the time, it's the initial load that causes the problem.
example: maplestory: after you select your character, and u enter the world, the game freezes, or when you enter a portal.
example2: SC2 beta: after loading screen, when your about to see your base, it freezes.
example3: crysis: after load screen, you enter play, it freezes.

computer specs:
gateway FX6800-01
-added 3x2gb corsair RAM
-replaced PSU with 750W corsair
-I've updated my BIOS, motherboard chipset, and ATI catalyst(10.3) drivers to their lates ones, ran a mtest.

What I'd like to know is, is it my video card at fault here? or is there something else that MAY be causing this freezing...

First off, welcome to the forums
It sounds to me like the issue lies with either drivers, memory, or the graphics card.
You've already run Memtest and updated your drivers, so I think we can mostly eliminate those two variables.
The next step I would try is to run Furmark in the stability test mode, check the "Xtreme Burning Mode" box to put maximum stress on the card, and run the test for an hour or so. If you don't experience graphical corruptions, crashes or lockups, also try OCBase GPU test.
Do note down the temperature your card (what card is it, by the way?) gets to and POST them here too.
If neither of those gives you issues, try OCCT's CPU test, again run it for an hour or so and note down the maximum temperature your CPU reaches, and post it here.
Hopefully those tests can point us in the direction of where the fault lies.


Post edited by request...Is this the original Specification? http://www.gateway.com/systems/product/529668210.php

If so it's an ATi Radeon 4850 It is an ATI 4850
ran both GPU tests maximum temp was 84-85C(high yellow zone) and there were no errors,lockups, or crashes.

I've also ran a Speedfan test, all numbers seemed normal except temp1 which yielded an abnormally high temp: 103C. it started off at 93C when i started up my computer and stabilized at 103C.

CPU test: I've only ran it for 10minutes since I have some things to do, seemed to stabilize around 61-62CUnfortunately Temp0, Temp1, ETC seem to vary from machine to machine. You will have to match that temperature to one in your BIOS' hardware monitor. For example on my PC Temp1 is motherboard temperature.Your temps seem fine to me, and you being able to run both stability tests seem to indicate your card is working fine.
temp1 may or may not be a "real" reading, I can't imagine anything running at 103C but equally if it wasn't a real reading, it shouldn't change.
An idea just occurred to me - it may be the VRM on your graphics card. Download and run GPU-Z and look on the Sensor tab to get a readout of that temperature - although again, it shouldn't be causing issues if you can run both of those tests, it wouldn't hurt to check it.

P.S. can a kind moderator please edit my post above? I seem to have failed to use the [url] tag properly ...yep, so it was my video card that caused all the problems. Bought a 5770 and everything works perfectly now. I've also disabled smartfan in BIOS so my CPU fan runs at 100% and the 103C temp dropped to 68C...can't imagine that my CPU has been 103C for over a year....Ah, that's interesting that your card could run those stress tests yet it caused those issues.
Glad you've now solved it anyway.
Also that seems very odd that the temp dropped like that ... I can't imagine that your CPU has been at 103C either as the i7 chips throttle down or shut off to prevent damage at 100C.
Still ... at least it's sorted now.

P.S. thanks for the edit patio.You got it Calum.....

im working on my friend's laptop i want to install windows xp pro on it but the CD DRIVE is not working, everytime the cd start to run it stop, so i cannot boot to the XP cd. it is a dell inspiron 8000 with intel PENTIUM 3 processor 698mhz and 320 mb of RAM. i can not connect to the internet the laptop has a 1394 net adapter in it with windows xp sp2 already installed. my friend want to wipe out everything on it then to install xp pro back on the laptop.Will the drive read any other discs ?



EDIT: Are you are booting from the CD drive, when you try to install it, or just putting the disk in while the computer is already booted ?i tried 3 different cds in the drive they start spining and stop after ~10 sec. i tried to boot to the cd it failed and i tried to run the setup in the gui it also failed because the drive stop running.Obviously the cd drive is bad.how can i fix it?
i already tried a program called cd/dvd drive repair in attemp to fix it but its still not working. please let me know if there are other ways to fix it.You will need to replace it....Unfortunately, you cannot fix a hardware ISSUE with software.

You would have to, as Patio says, replace the CD drive in the laptop or purchase an external USB CD/DVD Drive.

You should also CONSIDER whether or not it's worth spending the money to fix.thanks a lot for your help guys.
i really don't think the laptop worth a fix, its more than 10 years old i think. im not going to waste my time trying to replace the cd drive. i am going to tell my friend that if he want to buy an external usb cd/dvd repair i would do the rest for him.

Is this the MODEL?
http://www.sweex.com/en/assortiment/storage/card-readers/CR005V3
It supports SD-HC up to 32GB
It doesn't make sense to me either.Indeed, that's the one. I'll take it back to the shop next week if no one knows how to DEAL with this here.If it's still under warranty, that's what I WOULD do. If not, they cost about $10-$15US. You could try plugging in to another internal USB HEADER, if you have one available. Most motherboards have two.

Hi. This is my first time here. I had some problem w/ my HP printer recently and may have punched the start button a few too many times. Now it keeps printing (SOON as I turn it on - before I can even click "PRINT" on the computer) the same old page - I have about ten COPIES of this last page. How do I get it to stop printing the former "job"? My MANUAL doesn't address this problem. and of course my HP free help just expired. Thanks very MUCH. LindaWhat is the model number of the printer?

Also check to see if the button is part of the way stuck down before you start the machine.

I have this laptop NEC Lavie LL750/B and it's made in japan it has 44pins + a few jumper pins(not 100% sure). I ordered the SAMSUNG HM160HC 160GB 2.5" IDE PATA HARD DRIVE HDD and unfortunately it doesn't fit inside my laptop... It had the same pins but the plastic covering on each side the side pin is in the way and the hdd can't go all the way in.
if they both have the same pins shouldn't they fit? Or are they doing this so that I can only buy Hard drive from Lavie?
Should I return the Hard drive?
Here's the pic comparison: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[emailprotected]/4520425216/Google around for Laptop hard drive enclosures...

Just to give you an idea, look here:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=2781&name=2.5

Put the drive in an enclosure and hook it up through USBAccording to http://www.itechnews.net/2008/12/23/nec-lavie-ll750-notebook/, your notebook PC came with a 320 GB HD. So, why did you buy a 160GB HD for it?

I'm having a hard drive believing the "plastic covering on each side the side pin is in the way and the hdd can't go all the way in." Perhaps you should take the computer and new hard drive to a shop and ask them to install it or confirm that it won't fit.I've never seen anything like that, and I've worked on PLENTY of laptops and 2.5in drives. Those plastic things are some KIND of guides to insure that the drive pins are perfectly aligned when you push it in place. It appears but can't see clearly that the NEC has 2 pins vs the Samsung's 4 pins. Can you confirm 2 or 4 on the Samsung? Both have the 44 pins which are power and data, the other 4 are jumpers as you surmised.

I doubt the pins can be removed from one drive and installed on the other. You'll have to examine it very closely. NEC laptops have always been known for using non-standard components.The reason I ordered the new drive was because my old NEC hdd died so I had to get a new one, but unfortunately according to several posts I posted some say this NEC lavie laptop's hdd are non-standard which could be the reason why it doesn't fit. And the sides of the drives (which should be metal), next to the pins... looks standard on the Samsung, but it looks like notches are on the Toshiba HDD. But i'm sure they have the same number of pins, last I looked the pins looked exactly the same.I meant the plastic alignment pins on the ends. I'm not sure if they can be removed and installed on the other drive. Probably easier, in the long run, to get a replacement NEC drive.btw my laptop was bought around 2002, and the old hdd had 80GB of space. I'm going to take the hdd that I ordered to the shop and confirm that it won't fit and if it doesn't then hopefully I'll be able to return it.You marked this as "solved" on Tech Support Guy, and you appear to have got similar answers on techguy.org.

yea this post is solved thanks for the reply guys

Does anyone know of a device that can switch a USB KEYBOARD and mouse to another computer? I've got my modern PC and my retro one hooked up to the same stuff (speakers, monitor, power, etc) except the keyboard and mouse. So if I want to use the other PC I have switch them over (which OBVIOUSLY is a pain). Now as I have every other connection covered I don't need a full KVM box.

Long story short is there such a thing as a USB only KVM box (i.e. no VGA)?Quote from: Accessless on April 17, 2010, 03:46:58 PM

Does anyone know of a device that can switch a USB keyboard and mouse to another computer? I've got my modern PC and my retro one hooked up to the same stuff (speakers, monitor, power, etc) except the keyboard and mouse. So if I want to use the other PC I have switch them over (which obviously is a pain). Now as I have every other connection covered I don't need a full KVM box.

Long story short is there such a thing as a USB only KVM box (i.e. no VGA)?

Wouldn't two of the switches do what the OP wants to do? One to switch the keyboard and the other to switch the mouse.

hey guys whats up got KINDA simple question here for that card

on the back of the box it says
system requirements
1 gb system memory
and 450w or greater pwr supply are reconmended

now currently i ve a 250w pwer supply and about 750mb ram

if i just upgrade the ram to 1 gb or 1 and a 1/2 gigs
can i run that card without changing the pwr supply also??Probably not.
Power requirements won't change with adding RAM...

Also requirements are usually a wee BIT on the low side.so what do you reconmend?
change them both?Depends on if this machine is worth the cabbage being spent on it...

Specs ?CELERON cpu 2.66ghz
768gb ram so far lol

i donno where to find full specs srySo 60+ for a decent PSU RATED at 500W +
And 20 for a stick of RAM...

That puts you at 80 Bucks...on a Celeron based machine.ok i BAUGHT a power supply only could get a 430
and got a 1 gig stick of ram
but another problem

running a gae that requires a 256 or higher card its laggy as heck.......
and sugestions?Quote from: canadaboy1980 on April 10, 2010, 05:05:48 PM

running a gae that requires a 256 or higher card its laggy as heck.......

hi my computer screen has gone all funny and i cant seam to fix it

here is a PICTURE of what it looks like

Yeah, I see the problem. You've got all those people in the middle of the screen

1) Boot to safe mode - same problem?
2) Try a different display.
3) If you have a different video card available try that.Ok it didn't do it in safe mode but I tryed everything else including a diffrent graphics card but that screwed the computer up compleatly so I had to reinstal windows no nothing will install no settings will save and I can't get an anti virus software so I can't use the INTERNET
1) If it didn't do it in safe mode you should have posted back at that point and TOLD us so we could have helped you solve the problem.
2) Installing a new graphics card caused you to have to reinstall Windows? Absolutely, positively impossible.i didnt install a new one it was shared memory then i put a graphics card in wich i installed ages ago but took it out after crap performance Quote from: steven32collins on April 18, 2010, 02:30:53 PM

i didnt install a new one it was shared memory then i put a graphics card in wich i installed ages ago but took it out after crap performance

So about a week ago, I WOKE up to the fire alarm and the smell of something burning. It was coming from the computer, and as I shut it down, something sparked. I got a replacement powersupply sent to me, and recently installed it.

Everything powers on (FANS, lights, etc.) but the screen stays dark. I have tried a few different monitors, and cables... as well as switching the CMOS battery. I UNPLUGGED everything and re-plugged it, removed the GRAPHICS card, and RAM, and still can't SEEM to get this thing to start.

I am typing this on my phone, so I didn't include system specs, but can easily get them if requested. I just would like to figure out what is up.

Sorry if English or Grammar is bad.

Thank youLook, just salvage what you can and buy a new one.

Hi All! My daughter has a 3 yr old Acer T-180 - problems up until now..... When you push the start button the lights come on for moment & than nothing. I checked the PSU & it WORKS fine, all connections appear to be good. I even checked the button its self & it works! Could the MoBo be @ fault ? I'm @ wits end . Thanks in advance The cpu could be loose. Power cord connector to motherboard could be loose.
Are confident are you in maintaining your own repairs?Thanks for the responce mr-bisquit...... Checked all you had mentioned...... put a working PSU in NG...... Rechecked all connections, even pulled Start Button, again no luck. I've built & maintained a few PC's, but this kinda got me going . I was thinking that it could be a short on the MoBo cause the fans will start for just a second or two than shut down! My daughter said it had happened to her a few months ago, but she rebooted & all went well. The Acer is going on three(3) yrs old, so who knows whats up. I've got an older Biostar MoBo that hasn't been used much. I'll replace that Acer with that if the MoBo is shorted. Only thing is how will that TF570 take her HDD with Vista & all her stuff ? Thanks again Quote from: robit on April 16, 2010, 01:21:00 PM

...I was thinking that it could be a short on the MoBo cause the fans will start for just a second or two than shut down! ...

Quote from: Lee43 on April 13, 2010, 07:47:31 PM

1. I downloaded WD Acronis True Image and used it to clone the old 160 to the new 500 drive.
2. And then used the recovery disk and successfully got Windows INSTALLED onto the new 500Gb drive without getting that "Drive not found" error.
3. But what was really strange was that when I cloned the 160 to the 500, it may have copied everything (OS and all) to the new drive but when I setup the 500 as the master and booted up off it, I went to My Computer, right clicked on C: drive and then Properties, it showed that its size was only a 160Gb drive!...Does that normally happen when you clone a drive? Does the destination drive always become the same size as source drive?
Well whatever caused that to happen is a mystery (I wouldn't mind knowing why) but it was fixed when I installed Windows with the recovery disk. It's now showing it as being a 500Gb drive...

2. Then you reinstalled Windows from the Recovery Disk? I don't understand why. Was it because the 500 was being reported as a 160?

3. Cloning is an exact "bit for bit" copy. I've never used Acronis (still use Ghost for DOS), but if you cloned disk to disk, the remaining 340 was a partition on the 500 that was unformatted and not assigned a drive letter. All you needed was EASUS Partition Master Home Edition (free) to expand the 160 into the 340, giving you the 500. That takes all of a couple minutes instead of updating and installing after using the Recovery Disk.

...I'm pretty sure I understand what you just said there but I thought the new drive was already factory NTFS formatted and I was under the (possibly crazy) impression that all the cloning part did was like one complete copy & paste (copy from source drive & paste to destination drive)...

mirror image

I know this is a common term, but I've always found it a bit strange... a mirror image, after all, is flipped horizontally... a cloned disk is not.

Good point...the Data would be backwards.....

No, a 0 viewed in a mirror is a 0, a 1 viewed in the mirror is a 1.

I know! But it seemed the best way to explain it to someone who seems to be having a bit of difficulty comprehending the scheme.
No, a 0 viewed in a mirror is a 0, a 1 viewed in the mirror is a 1.

They are almost always unformatted. Cloning is not like a file or folder copy & paste. It's a sector to sector copy and could care less about the files. Liken it to a "mirror image or photographic image", hence the use of the term "image". It's a great way to keep backups of the hard drive, in case of failure. Create an image stored on a separate USB drive, do it once a month and you'll never be far behind your current configuration.

Just like a white person will see a black person and vice versa?... oh... wait...

I couldn't help but think of that old 1970 movie titled "Watermelon Man" where this white (racist bigot) guy wakes up one day to find he became a black man! It's a helluva crazy movie. Wikipedia info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watermelon_Man_(film)

I RECENTLY bought a new VT2400 Pro 256 MB PCI Video Card. I have not a clue how to install it myself nor does my friends. I've very frustrated want to get this installation going. If anyone can help, please do.It should be a simple case of taking the side panel/cover panel of the computer tower and slotting in your new expansion card. There are many guides on the internet: http://compreviews.about.com/od/tutorials/ss/DIYPCICard.htmi've put my video card in the pci slot while the computer was off, then i plugged my monitor into the card.. i turned on the computer. its just still black.. i have no clue what to do stillI'm assuming that you are replacing the on-board (built into motherboard) video card with a PCI card. Your computer may require you to enter the BIOS setup and disable the on-board graphics. This is usually located under the 'Chipset Features Setup' options/tab You should see an option similar to "On-board graphics: Enabled". You will need to set that to disabled (+, - or enter keys to alter settings).

So first off TAKE the new graphics card out.
Plug your monitor cable into your on-board graphics port.
USE the keys F2 or Delete to enter the BIOS Setup (the POST will tell you which key). Personally I just alternate until I get there.
Enter the 'Chipset Features Setup' menu/tab.
Change the "On-board graphics: Enabled" to disabled.
Reinstall the new graphics card and you should be laughing.Thanks for the REPLY, but I've tried that too.. My computer doesn't even detect the video card either, i've uninstalled the on-board video card in the BIOS and in the device manager.Ok, then assuming this is a really old motherboard. Have you CHANGED the graphics card port from AGP to PCI? Some older motherboards need you to select which expansion bay that you are going to use. Sorry I've forgotten the correct terms for this as it has been so long since I've had to do this.Well there wasn't a AGP option but there was a On-board option. I changed the on-board option to PCI and still no luck.That card may be DOA...try it in another PC to see...

the PAGE is ok when printing from windows or when printing pictures. but when printing from email or INTERNET only 1/4 of the page is used so everything is MINIATURE

Hello,


Well, my audio drivers and system seems completely fried. Earlier this week, I updated my Creative X-Fi Sound Blaster drivers to the July 30, 2009 update. I restarted and everything got messed up. Mouse drivers dead, display drivers dead, audio drivers dead, internet drivers dead. Unfortunately, I thought that it was just the audio drivers that were causing the problem. As a result, I fiddled around with the audio drivers and audio control panel a bit too much, and most of them got deleted. I then tried installing the 7-30-2009 update again, and I got a BSOD as a result. I performed a system restore and got back to the state right before I installed. It was around then that I discovered that it was not just the audio drivers messing everything up, but rather a complete failure of various drivers due to the audio driver installation. I fixed my mouse, display, and internet drivers by reloading them via device manager. But the audio didn't work. Apparently something I'd fiddled around with earlier messed it up. Luckily, I discovered that most of my drivers and programs had been BACKED up, so I RESTORED those drivers and audio programs back to where they were supposed to be. I reloaded, nothing. System restore won't work, as I unfortunately seem to not have any restore points from before the disaster.


If I delete all drivers for the device via device manager, I get an audio device called High Definition Audio Device, which is actually my X-Fi, and it seems after I delete all the drivers my audio card is no LONGER recognized; and the audio still doesn't work. If I don't, my audio card is still recognized, but the audio still doesn't work.

I then re-installed the 7-30-2009 driver update again after going into safe-mode and wiping all of my Creative drivers via Guru3d's DriverSweeper. The driver update didn't mess up the computer this time, but it didn't do anything either. Later, I discovered my drivers were still only at the April 20, 2009 update. Oh well.

I have an alternative sound source, an ATI High Definition Audio Device. Is there some way to activate this ATI device, or simply fix my X-Fi (preferable)?


I'm completely out of ideas, and I'm DESPERATE. I've already spent at least 30 hours this week trying to fix this, and nothing I do seems to work. Please assist me.


Thank you very much in advance!


Specs: Windows 7 x64 Pre-installed
Creative X-Fi Sound Blaster Titanium
ATI Radeon 4850 1 GB
8 GB RAM
1 TB HDD

Every time I try to START my computer the display either doesn't load up or it loads in and out, but the left side of the screen is all shaky/staticy/distorted. I tried the monitor on a different comp and it works, tried switching monitor plugs, apparently it's the computer.
I thought it might be a virus and was gonna erase the HD, but it's not detecting the harddrive when I try to reinstall windows.
As far as I know, the comp has some crappy integrated GRAPHICS, it's got 1 GB of ram and... RUNNING windows vista on the HD.
It's an HP Pavilion a1130n, if that helps o.o
The comp is like 10 + years old I think, we've had it for awhile.. so.. yah Lol
Thanks in advance for any help.This matches the model number you gave but it's not QUITE 10 years old, just coming up 5 years. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00388382&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=&product=483902

Still, in computer terms it's a senior. You can buy an old PCI-Express GPU and see if that makes a difference ~$45.00 for a brand new older model (converted from GBP prices), maybe cheaper on auction sites.

You don't have the computer near any strong magnetic sources do you?Check the monitor and the connectors on the computer and ensure there are no broken or bent connector pins.

Replace the monitor cable if it shows signs of wear or damage or if slight bends make it cut out.

Ensure there is no device next to the monitor creating interference, for example a subwoofer should be at ground level and not next to the monitor as this can make it distort.

Your graphic card might be damaged, you could try re-installing the drivers, but I don't think that would help, sounds more of a hardware issue.Ummm it's near two other computers, but other than that, there's nothing else nearby. I'm guessing a PCI-Express is a video card? Anyway, I tried using a couple other monitor cables I got lieing around and they didn't work with this computer, but were fine with others. And the monitor itself works fine with other computers as well.. mm.
Since it has integrated graphics, that means it's built into the motherboard, right? If the problem is with the graphics, than the only solution would be to by a video card? O.o
Thanks for both your responses btw.Check Control Panel > Display > Screen Resolution > Advance Settings...

On the monitor tab, check the screen refresh rate. If not already, tick the 'hide modes that this monitor cannot display', set the refresh rate around 75 Hertz (60 Hertz is default). If it's set too high, will affect the monitor, so set it lower, but too low will be slow on the eyes and when gaming FPS you can notice alot.

PCI-Express is the motherboard connection for graphic cards (not integrated). Integrated graphics is built into the motherboard and shares the computers memory. It could be the memory, but most likely be the card. If it's integrated and the problem, upgrading to a new graphic card would also help a lot performance. However, make sure your power supply can power it, the latest graphic cards are very hungry!If the link I provided shows the correct computer, then your motherboard will take PCI-Express graphics cards (as apposed to the older AGP).

Just GOT back from work today and sat down to new favorite PC game that I hate (don't ask its complicated). Anyway, I noticed that the game was a bit laggy so naturally I ignored it. Five minutes later the screen went blank, the sound stuttered and died & the keyboard locked. I had to hard reset. Now this happened last night but I thought nothing of it. I repeated the process to get the exact same result. I've switched out my new ATi Radeon 5770 for my old 3870, sure as could be everything worked PERFECTLY. I replaced the 5770 just to be sure but everything worked fine after that to.

So bearing in mind that the 5770 graphics card is a known problem child, can anyone think of anything else that might be the problem? No software updates have been manually or automatically installed for the last month.

The only other odd occurrence was 2-3 days ago when the computer was told to shut down but failed to switch off. Windows exited and saved (no "Windows was not shut down correctly" message upon reboot), the screen went blank and all the fans reved up to maximum speed and stayed LIKE it until I switched the power off at the wall. The reset and power switch were not responsive.

My system specs are as listed in profile.DLoad install and run Speedfan...
Post your temps.I can tell you now that it's not a temperature issue. Idle temp is about 30°C and it can get up to a staggering 60°C. This Card is brand new and I have been thinking about returning it for another GPU but I'm a bit limited on options:

ATi Radeon 5770 £140 [Win7 64-bit issues] Current GPU
ATi Radeon 5970 £550 [I don't have that sort of money, well... I do but i'm too stingy]
ATi Radeon 5870 £325 [I'm not paying £200 more for 2X the proccessing cores]
Nvidia Geforce GTX 480 £500 [Overpriced rubbish]hmm, can't seem to modify my last post nvm, double post!

I was talking to a friend yesterday. He has a GTX 285-480 (not sure which now)... He uses a mains AC bathroom fan strapped to the bottom of his PC to keep it below 100°C

Just waiting on power adapter for floppy disk drive for the BIOS update. If that has no effect then I'll have to return the GPU, unless anyone has any suggestions? Also should everything go to pot, should I try a replacement video card or just give up on the 5700 series?Argh! What is going on?! Monday, my computer is unusable due to program crashes and full graphics failures (system has to be hard reset) every 15mins and today all is fine. Perfect infact.
I HAVE DONE NOTHING! The computer has no changes from Monday (was kept off on Tuesday). There was a security update and office updates today but all was well before that! Running for 12 hours now, not even one error message (excluding cannot divide by 0).Umm, glad to hear you fixed it ...That's the point though. Is it fixed or the calm before the storm? But in all seriousness, the computer has gone from glitchy to very unstable to completely stable for no reason. I don't like the fact that nothing has been fixed.You moved it around though, probably cleaned the dust out, reseated some components.

We used to call it the car ride syndrome. Sometimes the computer just needs to go for a ride.

When I worked in computers we would see that once in a while.I agree and have seen that myself but the computer was untouched from Monday to Wednesday. It should have behaved in the same way yesterday. Now I just have the dilemma do I update the BIOS or leave it and keep my fingers crossed that it stays good?

My mouse pointer has just doubled in size so I'll try the update.Sometimes simply logging on to CH and posting will fix an issue... I've updated the BIOS to version 1903 and so far no crashes, errors or giant mouse pointers. It's been a couple of days now and think its safe to say fixed!

So anyone else suffering from crashes, errors and GMS with the ATi Radeon 5000 series, try updating your BIOS (as a last resort).

[GMS = Giant Mouse Syndrome]ahhh, 1903- a simpler time, where BIOS's were made right...I often worry if BIOS version 1903 was actually ASUS' 1903rd attempt at getting it right.