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I run a 2004 HP Pavillion XP with an AMD 2.08 & ddr 2700. It has 64mb integrated video & an AGP4X/8X slot; A7V8X-LA, VIA VT8378, UNIVERSAL 1.5v AGP 3.0 MBO. 1.To convert to a 128 or 256 mb video card, will the cards require an external power attachment, such as from my spare floppy connector? 2. Will the BIOS HANDLE an AGP 6200 card? 3. To update my 250w ATX12V power supply, what happens if the new psu has a manual on-off switch? My current unit has a remote front panel interrupt-type power switch. 4. My mbo handles SATA I. If I use a new PSU with SATA, will SATA II devices have built-in jumpers to convert back to SATA I? 5. The mbo supports a 3200+ processor, will DDR 3200, 400 mhz memory work with the current 2700+ 333 mhz processor; is this called overclocking?Okay, hopefully I don't miss anything, that's quite a list


1. Video cards don't connect to the power supply, they draw the power through the mother board.

2. The AGP 6200 should work just fine, just remember to disable the integrated video in the bios.

3. The switches on the power supplies are just a master on/off, the power button on the front of the computer is
connected to your mother board. Don't worry about that one.

4. Why not pick up a SATA II controller? TREAT yourself

5. No, it's not overclocking, I actually wouldn't recommend overclocking at all. Whether or not your motherboard will actually work with the DDR 3200 that should be in your motherboard manual, or if you want me to look that up for you post your make and model of motherboard. A good rule of thumb is to only get the type of RAM that is already installed. I'm referring to the speed and type, not the size.

I HOPE this helps, if you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.Some graphics cards do require a 4 pin connector though. A sata II device will work with a sata I controller
Quote

Some graphics cards do require a 4 pin connector though. A sata II device will work with a sata I controller.

Can anyone advise on how to get fairly used laptops in large quantity at regular intervals? Must be in good conditions will all package complete. Details of the source important. You want us to VOLUNTEER information to make you money?

Am I reading that right?ALSO, by "fairly used" do you mean it in the same way as somebody says "fairly aged", as in, they have been used for a LONG time?

Of course regardless of your answers I'm sure you'll somehow FIT more spam into your next post. in the meantime I suggest you go lick some envelopes to get your daily high of everyday material. Today: Envelope adhesive; Tomorrow, spray paint.Quote from: BC_Programmer on July 04, 2009, 11:02:41 AM

also, by "fairly used" do you mean it in the same way as somebody says "fairly aged", as in, they have been used for a long time?

Of course regardless of your answers I'm sure you'll somehow fit more spam into your next post. in the meantime I suggest you go lick some envelopes to get your daily high of everyday material. Today: Envelope adhesive; Tomorrow, spray paint.

I am looking for a new processor. I am looking at AMD processors and would like to know if I should get the black EDITION or standard edition. I believe the black editions are more for overclocking. Can anyone educate me on this matter.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103686
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103300The only difference is that the Black Editions have an unlocked multiplier, which is for overclocking.
If you don't plan on overclocking, there's no difference between them.
Hope this helps.I recently purchased a new motherboard that has a lot of OC features, I know that I am going to want to toy with them. I Should be looking for a black edition processor. Thanks for your help.
You're welcome.
Good luck with the overclocking.Actually I will probably be coming to you guys to help me with it. I plan on having it ready for this weekend, providing all goes according to plan. I am going to order the processor today. If there are no shipping hangups I should have it by Friday. Just be careful with the OC, start small. Run it for a while, keep an eye on errors and instabilities.I will be careful, I am going to try not to rush it. I bought a new ASUS motherboard and received it today. It has LOADS of overclocking features, most of which I have never used. It is going to be a good learning experience. I did order a AM2+ 2.7 kuma black processor this morning which should MAKE it here by Friday. I will be staying in touch with all of you because I know I will have LOTS of questions. I will list the hardware.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131362
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103300
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231209

I think it should give me a decent overclock. The only part I am waiting on is the processor.Don't know if you already have an aftermarket cooler but it's something you may want to consider. I'm not sure how hot those chips get, so I don't know if you'll need a better cooler or not, that's maybe something you can decide later when you get started.
Other than that I can't really comment, I've not overclocked an AMD system and I don't know modern AMD hardware that well so I can't give an opinion on your choices.I do have an aftermarket cooler, it is not a higher end cooler, but I think that it should do OK. It is a discontinued Thermaltake model I got from new egg(open box). My second open box cooler from them and they have both been perfect. It has a copper base and the copper tubes running through it. I would say it is probably one step above stock.

I need technical advise on :
The hardware and software(plus service provider) that will be required to do life audio STREAMING for a radio station to be able to have listeners enjoy live broadcast online.
Thx
____________.comIs this a commercial radio station that you will be earning money from?ignore. Spammer.Can't he just be deleted?yes.... well, the post can. But Nathan is the only one that can ban.Who's talking about banning... never tried erasing a person before. Usually I just left red marks and got strange looks as I furiously rubbed a pencil eraser on somebodies arm. "I'M ERASING YOU! I'M ERASING YOU!" I'd declare. Didn't really do anything except leave LITTLE red marks. Then I upgraded to the Pen Ink eraser, which was more abrasive. People started taking me a little more seriously, or at least pretended too.I'm thinking more LIKE JIMMY Hoffa, he was erased right....

I have two AMPS, one 25 watt and one 100 watt. I can hook them TOGETHER, so technically I could put them both on 10 at once. Does that count as going to 11? XD

...though, I'd never do that. I hardly ever put my 100 watt passed 3! That amp is LOUD!Not really, because it's still really only at 10, what are you going to do if you need to go louder?

Besides which, connecting the two amps will fry one, they only accept line level for inputs.What do you mean it will fry one? I have a cord that's meant for that, and I've done it many times... Unless you have a specific input for recieving an amplified signal you can fry the second amp in the chain.

I used to be a sound man for quite a few different bands, amplifiers do not like to process amplified signals. One thing to note - if your amps are heads that jack into a cabinet there are some cabinets that will accept input from two different amps at one time. They just combine the signals internally.What is to be gained by daisy chaining two amps? Nothing. If you have a powered amp then the signal from the keyboard is already pre-amped to the appropriate level for the internal power amp.

If for some reason you need to connect the 1st amp to the second then you use a direct box (DI) with a line level or speaker level input. The DI will output an isolated signal of the correct level to the second amp. The inherent issue with this is that the signal to NOISE ratio will be greatly affected by the pre-existing noise floor of the first amp.

Under no circumstances do you ever connect the outputs of power amps together.

BTW on the thread start subject, the keyboard contacts are carbon pads separated by a very thin air gap between two layers of plastic. The carbon pad is very slightly convex so there is no contact between the layers unless a key is pressed and the top plastic layer is slightly deformed to collapse the upper layer onto the lower layer thereby completing the matrix circuit.

Even if the key returns to normal position, the contact sheet can still have a deformation that maintains a matrix contact to cause any letter to continually type.

Another possibility is that there is some sort of conductive debris that has migrated between the sheets and is making contact.Quote

What is to be gained by daisy chaining two amps? Nothing. If you have a powered amp then the signal from the keyboard is already pre-amped to the appropriate level for the internal power amp.

Who ya gonna call

Just get a new keyboard.

Quote from: jstafford2920 on June 29, 2009, 08:31:19 AM

Due to a power surge from a storm recently, my computer shut off and hasn't came back on. I have a Dell Dimension 4600 and my computer isn't under warranty. I contacted Dell and they said it was either the power supply or the motherboard. They SUGGESTED that I buy a power supply first since it would be the CHEAPER way to go and it COULD fix the problem. So I bought a power supply from Dell and my computer is still not working. So now I guess I need to buy a motherboard but my question is..... if it wasn't the power supply that is the problem, will my old power supply work if I get a NEW motherboard? Could I return the new power supply? I would contact Dell about this but since I don't have a warranty, it cost $50 just to talk to someone.

Hey, guys, gals.
First of all thanks in advance for your attempts, successful or not, at helping me.

Within the last week I reformatted my computer and reinstalled Windows XP Professional. I've just become aware of the fact that my speakers no LONGER function.

I've visited Control Panel's Sound and Audio Device section and the Audio tab, but everything in there is grayed out. It tells me I have no Audio Device.

I've plugged my speakers into the Microphone hole thing, since I have no Line Out. It has worked in the past this way. Aside from this, the speakers are set up correctly.

What can I do to get my speakers working? Do I need to install some sort of driver?Your speakers should be plugged into a line out, not a line in.Grr. I had it backwards. I'm sorry, I meant to SAY I have no Line Out.

:/ I'll edit that in the original post. I'm sorry.Eh, did you reinstall your sound card drivers after reinstalling Windows? Otherwise, your sound won't work. There's nothing WRONG with your speakers.Are the speakers powered (with a built in AMPLIFIER)? If not, you cannot use a LINE OUT connection as the level is not speaker level. It is DESIGNED to output a low level signal into a powered speaker system.

Also go to device manager to see if there is a yellow icon on the audio card . You must have drivers installed to activate the on board card. Good point Gizmologist.

Something else to check is that you didn't disable the onboard audio in the bios.

I have added a new printer HP Deskjet 4260.Everything boots up fine, monitor screen SHOWS printer and working properly. The printer goes thru it's MOTION but, all I get is blank pages.I have tried new and old cartriges.The printer works on another computer but, not mine. Any IDEAS?
buttons 1Did you take the SEALS off of the cartridges?Did the operating system DETECT the printer, or did it "ask" for an installation of drivers.One other consideration, what OS are you running?

Some printers don't work with some OS's.

After the LCD has gone BAD i sent to computer service centre for repair. It is return and good but there is another problem arise. The fonts and images on my desktop look burry and unclear. Even if i set it to the highest resolution with true color still it is the same. What could be the problem? and is there any solution for the burry looking fonts and iconsThis may be a sign of problems to come.....recently I had a pc where the desktop icons LOOKED like they had a ghost image to the right of the original icon.....turned out there were multiple capacitors going bad. When I changed the motherboard I replaced the 5+ year old PSU ...... The replacements did the trick and the phantom images were gone...........Download cpuid or speedfan to see how your PSU voltages are, and perhaps point you in the right direction. Another idea, might be to see if a different monitor produces the same results...have you install your TFT driver on pc?
just try it
i have seen this problem with dell wide screens
thank you
cheap_kaspersky, An enlargement (slight alteration) on BC's suggestion is to try YOUR monitor on another computer and see if it behaves the same. If so the problem is with the monitor and not your computer.truenorthQuote from: cheap_kaspersky on July 02, 2009, 10:10:43 AM

After the LCD has gone bad i sent to computer service centre for repair. It is return and good but there is another problem arise. The fonts and images on my desktop look burry and unclear. Even if i set it to the highest resolution with true color still it is the same. What could be the problem? and is there any solution for the burry looking fonts and icons

so my mother did something to my external drive when trying to format it. now it doesnt read at all. problem is the drive itself is sata and i dont have a sata compatible system so i cant just hook it up and force reformat it, i can only use it thru USB... any help on how i would format it like this? its a cavalry enclosure with esata and usb, 500gb wd caviar driveYou'll need to go into Disk Management in Windows XP, partition and format the drive.

Plug the drive into a USB port and wait a few seconds for Windows to load the driver for it.....Then, click START, RIGHT click on "my computer", click "manage".....When computer management comes up, on the left-hand side of the screen you'll click on Disk Management....When disk management appears, maximize the screen so you can see what your are doing a little better...Now towards the BOTTOM of the screen, to the right of where it says DISK 1, right click on the drive space....If there is a black border above the disk space that you want to format, simply right click on it and then click "new partition" Follow the set up screen and fill in the bubble next to "primary partition" and click NEXT... In the "Specify Partition Size" window click NEXT (that is, if you only want the drive to be a single partition, you can adjust the size of the partition if you want to leave room for other partitions).....When you get to the "Assign Drive Letter" window, select what drive letter you want the drive to be (for example, your current hard drive uses the letter "C") and click NEXT.....when you get to the "format partition" window check the BOX that says, "perform a quick format" and then click NEXT............click FINISH and in a few seconds the drive will be formatted and the drive will show up in "MY COMPUTER" and you can use the disk space.

Now, if there is a BLUE border above the disk space that you want to format (to the right of DISK 1) then simply right click and then click "format", check the box that says, "quick format" and click OK......The drive should then show up in "my computer"


If by some chance, when you look in Disk Management, there is a RED "-" sign hovering over the DISK 1 drive, right click on it and then click "initialize"...then proceed with the PRIOR instructions...

hope this helpsQuote from: blockHEAD on June 30, 2009, 03:13:09 AM

You'll need to go into Disk Management in Windows XP, partition and format the drive.

Plug the drive into a USB port and wait a few seconds for Windows to load the driver for it.....Then, click START, right click on "my computer", click "manage".....When computer management comes up, on the left-hand side of the screen you'll click on Disk Management....When disk management appears, maximize the screen so you can see what your are doing a little better...Now towards the bottom of the screen, to the right of where it says DISK 1, right click on the drive space....If there is a black border above the disk space that you want to format, simply right click on it and then click "new partition" Follow the set up screen and fill in the bubble next to "primary partition" and click NEXT... In the "Specify Partition Size" window click NEXT (that is, if you only want the drive to be a single partition, you can adjust the size of the partition if you want to leave room for other partitions).....When you get to the "Assign Drive Letter" window, select what drive letter you want the drive to be (for example, your current hard drive uses the letter "C") and click NEXT.....when you get to the "format partition" window check the box that says, "perform a quick format" and then click NEXT............click FINISH and in a few seconds the drive will be formatted and the drive will show up in "MY COMPUTER" and you can use the disk space.

Now, if there is a BLUE border above the disk space that you want to format (to the right of DISK 1) then simply right click and then click "format", check the box that says, "quick format" and click OK......The drive should then show up in "my computer"


If by some chance, when you look in Disk Management, there is a RED "-" sign hovering over the DISK 1 drive, right click on it and then click "initialize"...then proceed with the prior instructions...

hope this helps

I just put a new motherboard in a new build, I am trying to set the CPU clock and memory timings.My RAM is currently running at 5-5-5-15, I checked and it is CAPABLE of running at 4-4-4-12. Now this seems pretty simple, however when I check the settings in the BIOS, they are not so cut and dry to me.

I have,
ASUS M4A78 PRO motherboard
AMD2+ 2.7 dual core BLACK edition processor. CPU 13.5x 222 3010MHz

AI tweaker is the BIOS setup utility.
I would appreciate anyones input.

DRAM timing configuration 2x DDR800 pc6400 2x 367MHz (734MHz)
CAS 4
TRCD 4
TRP 4
tRTP ?
TRAS 12
TRC ?
tWR ?
TRRD ?

tWTR ?
tRFC0 ?
tRFC1 ?

Command rate 1T/2T
I RAN siSandra motherboard test and the performance setting read
4-4-4-12 x-36-38 x 2T 1.9v
There is also a memory configuration SECTION with the following options.
Bank Interleaving
MemClk TRISTATE C3/ATLVID
Mmory Hole Remapping
DCT Unganged Mode
Power Down Enable

i have all THREE PCI slot..is there any kind of 3d card COMPATIBLE to it...What model is the motherboard?What are you trying to install?Video...Your EXPLANATION on the DISCRIPTION of you pci slot is not too clear. Is it a stand alone pci slot or are you looking for a pci adapter?

I upgraded the RAM in my computer from 256 to 1G two days ago and ever since my PC crashes from time to time. Also, since the upgrade neither my internal nor external CD are working. Any advice to diagnose? What OS and service pack are you running, and what is the make and model of your mother board?PC make = Gateway
OS = Windows XP Home
Sevice Pack = 3
Motherboard = INTEL D845HVWhat RAM chips do you have INSTALLED? What I MEAN is, how MANY chips of what size?

can a Boston DIGITAL BA735 speaker system from a gateway w/ windows 98, work with an HP Pavillion dv4000 labtop running windows xp 2nd Edition. If so how b/c it would keep me from having to buy bigger exterior speakers That shouldn't be a problem. I take it that the speaker set has the 9 or 10 millimeter plug which plugs into the lime green sound card port on the computer?yea, its lime green, the system is from my old comp. , i wanted to see if it would work on the lab top ive had for a few years
i hooked it up and it doesn't play anything, the only port to plug it in is the headphone portGive them a try! They should work just fine! I use EXTERNAL speakers on a laptop which I plug into the headphone jack.

If there's a volume control, you might turn that down before you plug in the speakers, just on the outside chance the volume is set really high, but there should be no problem in using that set of speakers.not working it stops playing when i plug them in, its a 3 speaker setup, 2 regular speaker w/ a small sub woofer speaker , would there be any SPECIAL drivers i might have to installWhat color is the jack or port into which you're plugging the speakers? Is it a lime green ring? Or are there icons? I sometimes plug the speakers into the MICROPHONE port which is right next to the headphone port on my laptop.

Is there more than one connector from the speakers, or just the one (lime green) plug?

As far as I'm aware, you shouldn't need any special drivers.one lime green plugin, and yes it is in the headphone port, not microphone portwouuld i by chance have to change the speaker settings or somethingi have a soundmax digital audio cardFalconFan, I assume these are powered speakers? Without them being powered you will not get the same degree of volume from a headphone jack as you would from a "speaker" jack. truenorthGood catch, truenorth, but I'm thinking he'd plug them in, just like with the other computer...I can think of no reason they shouldn't work -- unless there is a setting individual to that computer or sound card.

I know that as soon as I plug in HEADPHONES or speakers to the headphone jack, that immediately "overrides" the output to the built in laptop speakers.Simple check here guys. Any powered speaker system will work. Try this: turn on the speaker system and turn the volume down to about 9:00 on the control. lick a finger and touch the tip of the mini phone plug input cable. Should should hear a buzz. The harder you push, the louder the buzz. Do the same with the ring contact on the plug. If you hear a buzz, the speaker is working.

Plug in a set of headphones to the computer and call up Youtube of some recorded music.. If you hear audio, the output is working. The connect the speaker and computer. Voila! sound.

The speakers that connect via a stereo mini plug do not require special drivers etc. As long as the earphone output works, you will have sound.Check your audio control software, you may have to assign the jack as to whether it is line out or line in. I have seen this before with some digital sound cards.

Give this ONE a try, but first uninstall the drivers you currently have.
Then reboot and try the install. Let us know if it works or not.

Does your mother board have integrated video?
If so make sure that it is disabled in the BIOS, maybe the driver doesn't like that as well.No, it still doesn't work with that driver you suggested. I am still getting the same error message. One thing I did notice however, is when I uninstalled my old driver and restarted my COMPUTER to install the new driver, I got the same error message. This tells me that it isn't the new driver at all but has something to do with the uninstall of the old driver, but what is causing this?? Thanks!!

BTW - I have aslo NOTICED this nvsvc.dll is part of my start up programs in msconfig listed under "startup." Do you think I should just prevent it from starting up by unchecking the tick box, or do you think that it is something that is NEED to start up.It's not IMPORTANT to the functionality of the video card, disable it in startup.

i have a SONY desk top that RUNS for a few minutes that freezes. when i tried to use the system restore disk i get the following message "cannot normally execute the intial setting of partition information". I am not sure what is happening but i suspect the hard drive. Does it load into Windows?This is not Windows message, but Sony's recovery CD message.
You may TRY to contact Sony, but it looks like hard drive problem to me.

Run hard drive diagnostics: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Make sure, you select tool, which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso type, use IMGBURN: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD, and make the CD bootable.

NOTE. If your hard drive is made by Toshiba, unfortunately, you're out of luck, because Toshiba doesn't provide any diagnostic tool.would load into windows and run for a short time before it locked up.Do what Broni suggested.

I always use a silly-putty replica. although the number of silly putty eggs required to duplicate it often exceeds the price of a more expensive PC, and I still need to get rid of the plastic egg containers too.

Not to mention it kind of sags after a while. By that time, I've already "complained" that it isn't working, so nobody would suspect me. MWA HA HA!You could make your ownQuote

I always use a silly-putty replica.

silly-putty

It picks up newspaper print!

I have a P-4 2.2G running Windows XP Home with all Service Pak upgrades. System MEMORY is 1GB. ASUS motherboard with only PCI slots. Dell 19" Wide monitor with VGA & DVI inputs. Recently, my PCI e-GeForce FX 5200 DVI video card went bad. I replaced it with a e-GeForce 6200 DVI video card. When I turned the computer on, the initial boot up screen comes up as normal. The display then shows the Windows XP logo sceen. After that, the screen goes blank, even though I hear the computer CONTINUING to boot up. I must pull the power cord to shut the computer off. I switched to the VGA port on the monitor and connected to the on-board video chip on the motherboard. With that connection, everything works normally. When the 6200 was connected via DVI, as was the 5200, the graphics in the BIOS was set AUTO (verses on-board). I changed it to on-board when I connect using the on-board video chip. Has anyone run into a similiar problem and found a solution?Some video cards need to have the onboard video disabled in the BIOS, try that and let us know the result.Same thing with safe mode?
If so, uninstall the 5200's driver and then power down. Insert the new card and reboot.I reconnected the VGA cable to the on-board video chip, booted into XP, and installed the XP drivers from the CD for the 6200. I then rebooted, changed in BIOS from on-board graphics to AUTO, shut the computer off, installed the 6200 video card and connected it to the monitor with the DVI cable, and rebooted. The computer booted into XP. However, the computer resolution was very low and displayed colors at 4bit. The driver update program launched automatically. I opted to connect to Windows Update This Time Only to locate an updated driver, as I normally do. An updated driver was installed and I rebooted the computer, as instructed. After booting past the Windows XP logo screen, the screen went blank, which was the original problem. I have since reverted back to the on-board video chip with a VGA connection to the monitor. This is very frustrating because I am not getting the quality display which is available with the 6200. Does anyone have a solution for this problem?Don't let Windows choose the driver for the card.

Download this driver:
http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_186.18_whql.html

1. Again, using the 5200, uninstall the driver you've now installed.
2. Shut down. Unplug and insert the 6200 and connect monitor to it.
3. Reboot. Disable on-board. Proceed to boot into Windows.
4. When Windows detects new hardware, cancel it. Do not let Windows attempt to install the driver.
5. Install the downloaded driver. Reboot.Well everyone - I broke down & purchased a EVGA GeForce 6200 256 mb DVI/VGA video card. Changed the BIOS to AUTO for the graphics, installed the card, connected the DVI cable & booted up. It booted into Windows XP. Display quality is as expected. However, my Taskbar at the bottom of the screen does not appear. I changed the resolution up & down and still no Taskbar. I tried to adjust the screen both in the NVidia Control Panel and with the Dell S1909WX CONTROLS, with no success. Also, the Start key on my keyboard does not bring up the Start button on the screen. That's odd. Therefore, I cannot access any programs the normal way. My desktop only has the Recycle icon - I like to keep a clean desktop. I can access the web and certain programs by using the shortcut keys on my keyboard. I shut down using Windows Task Manager, connected the monitor to the video card with a VGA cable, booted up, and got the same result. Frustrated to say the least. My limited opinion is that this problem may have something to do with the way the video card is displaying the IMAGE on this widescreen monitor. I appreciate any help anyone can give to resolve this problem. I dread going back to the on-board video chip. Thanks.Did you follow my instructions for changing cards or did you just swap it out with the same driver again?Quaxo - I followed your instructions when I installed the previous e-GeForce 6200 card which I could not get to work. I installed the new EVGA GeForce 6200 card and booted up. Should I uninstall the downloaded driver which you instructed me to use and do the process all over again? To repeat-the display is fine except that the Taskbar does not show at the bottom of my screen.If you use the up and down arrows on the keypad does your desktop scroll to the taskbar?Well everyone-I found my solution to the Taskbar missing problem by downloading a small program called Repair Taskbar: http://forums.techarena.in/windows-xp-support/720135.htm Worked like a charm. My Taskbar is restored. I shut down, connected by DVI cable, and am up and running. What an adventure. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.First , anytime you have display or driver related problem after an upgrade or new INSTALLATION, You should load your operating system with safe mode in other not to loose the entire files. alternatively contact www.______________.comQuote from: globaltel on July 04, 2009, 08:41:38 AM

First , anytime you have display or driver related problem after an upgrade or new installation, You should load your operating system with safe mode in other not to loose the entire files. alternatively contact xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

I changed the HARD DRIVE from my ps3, leaving me with a useless 40gb hard drive. I bought an enclosure, but I can't seem to get the new drive to CONNECT to anything to FORMAT it. Is it even possible?Somebody's got a similar issue to what you got ... trying to format a drive (that came with your PS3).... See link below .... hope it helps....

http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/702626Thanks! Very helpful. I'll post if I can get it to work.I got it working. Thanks again!GLAD it worked for you

I have a Toshiba Satelite with intel processor, 1.5gig memory and a 250 G hdd...about 2.5 years old.

When I push the on button, the power light comes on, but that is it....does not access the hd, the hd inidcator light does not repsond at all when the on button is pressed....jsut sits there with a black screen.

I have searched this forum and googled and all but have not found this particular problem listed or a fix.

THe last week before this total failure, I had a number of times the computer would be fine and suddenly a blue screen would flash and the computer would reboot before I could read it. The last 2 times, if I moved the computer physically, picked it up from the floor or desk it would also go blue screen and reboot.

Any suggestions welcome.

THANKS,

GalenIt sounds to me that your hdd is loose. Locate it on the computer(usually on the side somewhere or the bottom somewhere) There should be a screw holding it in. heck if that is there. Even if it it, try to give it a little push to make sure it is connected. If it still does not turn on when you are pushing the hdd, it may mean you have a bad drive. Have you dropped your laptop somewhere? Have you set it on a bed so the fans could not circulate air so it overheated and died?Quote

When I push the on button, the power light comes on, but that is it.

It sounds to me that your hdd is loose.

If that was the case the error would be different.

not backlit

Hi folks,

I had an awkward incident/experience the other day. Maybe someone can help me out to solve my "problem". My machine has 4 memory slots and only occupying 2 of them. The manufacturer tell me I can upgrade to 2 Gb but due to out of warranty he can not help me out to solve my problem. The current config is 2 x 64 Mb RIMM memory. A computer shop down the road installed another 2 x 128 MB RIMM memory. But after the machine is user-ready and after maybe 5 seconds it quits completely. Any ideas how it can be upgraded and still keep working for me?Quote from: haighton on July 04, 2009, 06:05:34 AM

The current config is 2 x 64 Mb RIMM memory. A computer shop down the road installed another 2 x 128 MB RIMM memory. But after the machine is user-ready and after maybe 5 seconds it quits completely. Any ideas how it can be upgraded and still keep working for me?

The guys from the computer shop hadnt a clue either why my machine didnt work with the added memory.

So what chips are currently installed?

Can you pull out the new ones and try to boot?

What happens if you do?

Quote from: luck of the irish on June 27, 2009, 09:53:56 AM

It was actually predicted by a man by the name of Michael MOORE, that we would build things smaller and smaller, it is going to keep getting smaller (if one would like formula please don't hesitate to ask me)

And also, perhaps once they GET it on PCs, no more Windows READYBOOST?

Hopefully(and probably) it'll still be backwards compatible.

I get the impression that luck of the irish is in fact ireland-1.

Not necessarily, there comes a time in every standard's life when backwards compatibility is not feasible. We'll just have to wait and find out.

Then it won't be Linux to be the first to have it. The hardware manufacturers won't touch it until there is a standard.

Not necessarily, there comes a time in every standard's life when backwards compatibility is not feasible.

Hello! Boy this hasn't been my week, so here go's.... Bought an Acer T-180 for my daughter about a year ago.... came with an AMD 3800 athlon - swap out to a AMD 4000.... ran good.... now she WANTED a little better performance....OK.... saw a AMD 5200 & slapped it in(not literally).... posted fine.... but(I'm finally gettin to the question) the processor that shows in device manager is the old 4000.... OK I reset CMOS and reboot.... still shows the 4000 in device manger but, in the computer Hardware list it shows the 5200 & when I ran the Vista performance thing.... the calculations or CPU, went from 5.1 to 5.3.... so I think it's running @ spec.... is it? & how could it do this when device manager said the opposite...... running Vista Hom Basic 32Bit thanksJust a note.... I went to CPU-Z & bingo it shows to 5200.... Also went to Nvidia Control Panel & CPUID.- it's there also.... System runs fine ever if it doesn't show in Device Manager.... I didn't think that was possible, but I guess so!! Thanks Is it showing up okay in the BIOS?

Are you getting the performance boost from it?Hi Quantos! Yes it shows in the Bios.... & Yes there is a performance increase.... I ran the Windows Vista Performance test(or what-ever) CPU went from 5.1 to 5.3.... Just couldn't understand why it doesn't show in Device Manager.... Thanks The 'Device Manager' is Windows, it fails OCCASIONALLY. There's a utility called Everest that just rocks, let me find the link for you. It will tell you stuff about your computer that you didn't know existed.Here it is, it's called Everest.

This utility is amazing, and it's also free.Don't want to step on anyone's toes, but it sounds to me like device manager just didn't update the driver. As this driver isn't HUGELY important, it's not actually a problem.
If it concerns you, try this - it's the processor "drivers" to enable the Cool + Quiet feature, it may update the description shown to show the correct CPU.
Seriously though, it's not a problem, the CPU is RECOGNIZED properly and is performing fine.Good catch Calum.Boy I believe that Quantos! This problem can cause many(like myself)to think there's a problem when one doesn't exist!! which makes you waste time we may not have to waste!.... I've been using a program that looks pretty good.... PC Wizard.... Google it, you mite like it,lots of system info.... If your like me, I love the DETAILS!!!.... Thanks .... To Calum: Thanks for your input.... More info is always good & you make a good point.... Thanks for the Everest link Quantos, I'll be using it.... One good thing about a problem(s) - to find the solution.... gives in major experience & that's what it all about.... Thanks to you all.... GREAT INPUT!!!! I'm so glad that you found a solution, you come back any time now.Again as a Note: When I had cleared CMOS.... I had disabled COOL & QUIET in the bios than all ran well, but Device Manager still showed the old 4000..... Thanks again ALL!!Quote from: Quantos on July 04, 2009, 08:07:23 AM

I'm so glad that you found a solution, you come back any time now.

okay, not sure if these are right or not since its how I got it. Its a Seagate st351ax I found the manual here http://www.scribd.com/doc/246908/st351ax its an 18 pin config. But what I would like to know is if factory test should be on there an if I should keep the BUS reset low or not.I would leave the factory test disabled and set low. Is this drive giving you troubles?some what I think cause its set to be slave an not master just wonder so that I can set it right.I can change that, but I need this drive more or less. Also, it says acive light in the manual is that to see if the drive is moveing data or what?Any thoughts here? The drive spins but it doesnt see it at all for some reason.Dead drive...Quote from: patio on July 01, 2009, 06:46:12 PM

Dead drive...

Now now, let's not jump to conclusions, even when all the evidence points to that conclusion quite conclusively, with no real margin of error.

Quote

Disclaimer: This in no way is a deragatory comment slamming eBay; any of it's EMPLOYEES; subsidiaries users and or the guy who CLEANS the rest rooms.

That doesn't always mean anything, they can be fudged.

I agree, they did say i could send it back, but can I be bothered to send it to China???

Quote from: quaxo on June 28, 2009, 09:17:09 PM

A bit of advice for the future THOUGH: Always keep a backup of anything important on a flash drive. They're not reliable enough to keep the only copy of important files or documents. In fact, no computer media is. Even recordable CDs and DVDs can't be relied on 100%.

I'd expect a surge to do this, but probably not a power outage.

Hi There,

I have just assembled a brand new PC and cannot get it to POST or boot.
No display or signal just a message "No VGA cable detected", monitor LED is still orange (power save mode). I've tried two monitors, CRT and LCD types on both ports of graphics card as well.

ALSO, no beep code sound either but CPU and case fans all work.

Keyboard only lights up upon first switch on PSU, then goes out. (Typical ATX routine). Also tried another keyboard with USB fitting. Only the PS/2 keyboard showed any promise.

On-board LEDs are on with floppy LED not showing at all, just the DVD drive at the initial switch on.
I noticed the graphics card has four red LEDs but only three are on, is this normal or will the fourth one come on when it finally boots?

SPECIFICATIONS.
Case & Power supply: Antec P193 + CP-850 PSU.
Motherboard: ASUS M4A79T Deluxe
Processor: AMD PHENOM II X4 955 BE (Box)
Graphics card: ASUS HD4890 1GB DDR5
Memory: 4GB. Corsair TW3X4G1600C9DHX
Hard Disk Drive: Western digital RE3 WD5002ABYS
Optical (dvd, cd blu-ray): LG GGC-H20L
Floppy: Sony 1.4
Monitor: Dell 22" Ultrasharp Widescreen Flat Panel Monitor (S142209WAAU)

I am at a loss to why it will not boot. The above specs are all NEW quality parts. I've CHECKED all cables on PSU etc. I suspect it may be that the Processor is too new for the motherboard BIOS as mentioned in other forums. (NOTE, I've just bought a new updated BIOS chip...still no good).

As a last measure, I took out the motherboard from the case and tested it on the bench. Swapped the memory around the different slots and removed all drives from the board etc. The graphics card was also removed to see if I could get a beep.....no such luck.

Today, I received a PCI Diagnostic POST card to help decipher any errors. I assumed the BIOS is AWARD since I have an earlier (older) ASUS motherboard. Remember, computer won't boot so I cannot be sure of the BIOS.

Codes from diagnostic card were...
F-33 (This is normal PCI bus speed)
22
12
32
33

Any clues on the other numbers please? (Note: I've read the manual but left out the description so as to not cloud your judgment to the solutions.)

All suggestions welcomed.

Many thanks in advance,

Jeff
Australia.Double check all your connections especially the 5 or 6 small connectors that run from the front of the case to the motherboard....follow the motherboard manual and MAKE sure these connectors are installed properly....Check any jumpers on the MB and be sure they are correct as well.After checking the connections LIKE Karnac said I would consider getting a RMA for the motherboard. I think you may have a bad board.

Hi All,

Thanks for you interest and help. I had already done those suggestions thank you.

Good news, .........problem has been solved now.

Re-seated the CPU and Bios chips. Booted up OK and POST codes were checked on Diagnostic card..all is well and I am a PLEASED man.

All that's left to do now is finish my downloading of Windows 7 64-bit ISO file for DVD burning. This machine will eventually be 64-bit only PC with Linux and Windows.

Thanks again,
JRMGood news....you're welcome.Quote

a RMA for the motherboard

Quote

But the same might be said of an analog system.

*DB25 female port is parallel, DB25 male port is serial
A DB25 is not a Centronics 'interface', and D-sub connectors were around some 20 years before Centronics was a company and introduced their connectors.

Officially IEEE1284 does not specify the connector.

My latest toy is the Toshiba e800 pocket pc with windows mobile and built in wifi. I have a couple of questions re this device. I do not have the "USB cradle". I do have the A/C charger converter. I would dearly love to be able to connect an external keyboard to it. Preferably a flexible one. However the only external connection slot is a 40 pin usb one (intended to connect to the cradle). Does anyone know of a 40 pin external keyboard? Much research on my part has not found one.Also does anyone know of a USB cable that will have a 40 pin on one end and a normal USB 2.0 on the other end so as to enable the e800 to connect to a computer's usb port?truenorth
P.S. I also wonder if this device is even capable of utilizing an external keyboard through the available 40 pin port?I believe that device has bluetooth which would be another option...

A few links to START:

Here

And Here...Patio,THANK you for the links.I'll check them out. I am not certain but it seems to me as i was researching the device i believe that the "bluetooth" if it is part of it is an option (which i don't think is part of my unit).However when i figure out how to do it I'll certainly check on that. I do know it does have "infrared" connectability built in but i would imagine i need to investigate what i can find to install at the computer end as a transmiter/receiver.truenorthUpdate: More research has determined the following.
1.Units sold in the U.S.A. ( my unit) come with built in WIFI all the rest of the world gets "bluetooth".
2.Apparently the "cradle" which i don't have and another device the "presentation pack" (an option which i also don't have) allow for the connection of a multitude of external devices (keyboard included) via USB.
3. So far an exhaustive search has not found either unit available anywhere. So if anyone has any leads on where either might be located I'll be very gratefull. truenorthWhy not buy a USB WiFi dongle? PLUG the dongle into a USB port and use the computers keyboard?

Or really splurge and get a WiFi keyboard. Quantos, A little confused (me)--where is this "USB WIFI dongle" getting plugged into? If it is to be plugged into the e800 the only USB access to it is via the 40 pin port on the bottom of the Toshiba. That is a NON standard (traditional ) USB port and is intended to allow connection of the cradle or the presentation pack. If it is plugged into another computer (desktop or laptop) how does that create access to a keyboard? Is there something i am missing here (that is certainly a possibility)?truenorth
P.S. Thank's for the input.Quote

<edit> Or really splurge and get a WiFi keyboard. </edit>

Hello. I decided to build a new gaming computer. This was my first time building a computer, so I did not know much. Anyways, I finished building the computer and when I turned it on, all the case fans began spinning, the graphics card fan span, the DVD drive's LED came on and when I pressed the "eject" button, it opened. However, the monitor did not receive any signal and so it stayed black, and my USB devices did not light up/work. My motherboard is an ASUS P5QL Pro, so I couldn't hear any beeps during POST (that is, if it occurred at all). I went out to Radio Shack this afternoon and PURCHASED a peizo buzzer. The thing is, I have no idea how to attach it to my motherboard!

I had a hard time installing the heatsink. I placed the CPU in the socket, and applied Arctic Silver 5 on it. I purchased a separate CPU cooler/heatsink rather than using the stock cooler, and when I opened it, it had a nice block of thermal compound on it. I cleaned the Arctic Silver 5 with bathroom tissue and I started to install the heatsink. I failed to acknowledge the "rule of diagonals", and I had to reseat the heatsink multiple times, RUINING the thermal compound. In fact, while I am typing this, the heatsink is still loose.

There currently is no OS installed on the computer as of posting.

I have NOT YET tried reseating the RAM, clearing the CMOS, reseating the graphics card, or a "barebones" boot.

Here's the parts used in the build:
Case: Antec Nine Hundred
MoBo: ASUS P5QL PRO LGA 775 Intel P43 ATX Intel Motherboard
GFX Card: EVGA 512-P3-N871-AR GeForce 9800 GTX+ 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 X16 HDCP READY SLI Supported Video Card
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EADS 1TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM49189572
RAM: 2 sets of Kingston HyperX NVIDIA SLI-Ready 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model KHX8500D2K2/2GN (4 GB total)
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80570E8400
PSU: LOGISYS Computer PS575XBK 575W ATX12V SLI Ready Power Supply
CPU Cooler/Heatsink: ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler
CD/DVD-ROM Drive: LITE-ON Black 18X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM IDE DVD-ROM Drive Model iHDP118-04

Thank you for your time.Quote from: juicebox360 on July 02, 2009, 05:58:27 PM

the heatsink is still loose.

I will be working on a friend's computer, which is the 7965 Desktop PC. I've not seen inside the case yet, but the HP site says there are three PCI slots, an AGP slot, and three DIMM slots for RAM.

I also believe the CPU is a Pentium 1.7 GHZ / 400 front side bus.

I believe the system currently has the TNT2 M64 32 MB SDR graphics card.

My friend is INTERESTED in obtaining a card which supports dual monitors.

I've looked on newegg, Computer Discount Warehouse, and a bit on Tiger Direct.

This will not be for games or intense graphics -- mostly office work.

There are a lot of cards to look through, and I'm not sure I'm getting the ones that support dual monitors.

Also looking to keep this fairly inexpensive -- under $100, to be sure -- less is even better.

If anyone would care to take some time and make some recommendations, I'd appreciate the help.

HP doesn't always use the same mother board in all of the same model computers.

Take a look at it first to verify it.Yes, there was a similar disclaimer on the site. We'll have to check into it.
Thanks!No problem man. I made that mistake a looooong time ago.

Hang on, there's some kids on the lawn...I wondered, though, if we assume the use of an expansion slot, what might be some good choices? I'm just having trouble, as I peruse the sites, knowing what supports dual monitors, and what doesn't.Why not just get a wicked card that supports dual monitors on it's own?
That would be way less hassle.Also, it will depend on what type of connections his monitors use. I'll assume, for the moment, they both take standard DE15 VGA inputs. Some of these cards have 2 DE15 outputs, some have one DE15 and one DVI. For the ones with DVI, usually you can get an adapter. The adapter does not work with DVI-D ports (digital only). It will work with generally every DVI-A and DVI-I port though. (Always verify this before purchasing a card.) (Also verify that the card doesn't already come with the adapter, some do.)

Pretty much any GeForce or ATI card with more than one output will do either clone view or dual view with multiple monitors.

PCI:
PNY GeForce 5200 $40.99
Jaton GeForce 5200 $73.99
Jaton GeForce 6200 $79.99

AGP: There were no AGP cards on Newegg with 2 D-subs (VGA). However, there are many with a DE15 and DVI for under $50. Take your pick, just make sure it's not DVI-D and you can use the adapter mentioned above.
Holy Krausmier, as my mom used to say! No wonder I couldn't find anything on newegg! I knew something was wrong! Thank you so much!! This gives me a good start!!You'd be surprised at how many PEOPLE think you need a "special" video card to use dual view (extended desktop) or even clone view, when often the card they already have can do so. As far as I can remember, every card I've had all the way back to my GeForce2 MX had more than one output, and every one of them was CAPABLE of displaying on 2 outputs at the same time. A lot of older cards are capable of this, except the second output is a standard RCA-type video out or S-Video out. Good for displaying on a TV or something, but not for computer monitors.

Also, most laptops that have an external monitor port can display on both the laptop's LCD and the external using dual or clone views.

Quote from: QUANTOS on JUNE 28, 2009, 04:46:48 AM

Vista and XP use different bootstrappers. Try this, it's called EasyBCD.

Or the OP could use EasyBCD.

Oh, well then, ignore Vista completely, it's the ME of the NT world.

errr.... I have to disagree...

cause everyones uses are differnt. I had to get a BIGGER heatsink for mine cause my old board said that it was over heating.My case has excellent cooling as well...
The front FAN is well positioned with 3 air slots also well screened...
Pic HereI like style and functionality...

While my current case is pretty much stock...I'm looking into using the following case to restore my old GATEWAY 700S machine.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811103010The Raidmax i linked to is about 30 Bucks cheaper...both side panels open all the way down...and the stock fans are more than ENOUGH. I actually almost bought the ASUS Vento 3600, but had to change my MIND when I realized it was just too wide at the base to fit under my desk properly.

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1760

I have a Gigabyte GA-8GE667 PRO MOTHERBOARD and I'm clean installing XP. During BIOS detection I'm asked to choose which HAL(Hardware Abstraction Layer) to use. This is my question. I have read that most installations use the "Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) PC" SETTING. Do you think this is most LIKELY the setting I should use?

just bought a rebuilt system the D drive will read some discs but not others. says please insert a disc into drive D . I know the discs are ok, they run on my laptop. Any ideas on why this would happen? Appreciate any help.Some LOWER end or older Drives can be picky with discs CREATED in specific formats based on the original drive used to create them and a drive such as yours that seems selective as to what it will read and not read.

Easiest solution is usually to replace the drive with a new drive. This clears up the issue 99% of the time.

The good thing is that drives are cheap if you dont already have a spare available.Are the disks that it won't read DVD? Not all drives will accept both.

To be certain look on the front of the tray, if it will play both you should SEE a symbol for both.Thanks to all who made suggestions. It was a CD not dvd drive...duh anyway PROBLEM solved thanks again.Glad we could solve that for you. Come back any time.

I am building a computer in the next week or two and am having issues deciding between the GTX 275 and GTX 280. I am buying from Newegg and am going to purchase one card for the time being and later purchase another for SLI. The issue I am having is the GTX 280 is older (currently only 2 models available for purchase on Newegg) and the GTX 275 is newer (at least 15 different models available on Newegg) and am worried that if I go with the GTX 280 I will not be able to find another down the road when the price drops happen again (maybe 6 months or so later). Which would you purchase?

ALSO: Is it worth buying a better graphics card now considering the LAUNCH of DX11 later in the year? Would I be affected and disappointed with the purchase a year down the road?

I am open to any other suggestions as well regarding the graphics cards if you believe there is a better solution. This will be a gaming computer and gaming performance is my primary concern for this build.

SYSTEM THE CARD(S) WILL BE PAIRED WITH:

Intel Core i7 920
6GB GSKILL DDR3 1600 8-8-8-21
Corsair 850 Watt PSU
Coolermaster HAF 932 Full-Tower Case
HAVEN'T DECIDED ON A MOTHERBOARD YET BUT IT WILL HAVE SLI CAPABILITIES (ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A MOTHERBOARD - MAX $250)

Was looking at this motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188049

My only concern with this motherboard is it doesn't seem to run 2 cards at x16. I believe I need a motherboard that is capable of running 2 cards at x16 right?

Thanks in advance.I would purchase the GTX 275. Performance is very similar, sometimes matching or beating, the GTX 280.
By the time you "need" SLI to run games, I would guess that neither of those cards will be produced any more, but you'd easily find them for sale on Ebay or various forum trading sections.
In my experience very few people upgrade to SLI when they buy a single card to begin with, most go and purchase a new, more powerful card instead. This avoids the sometimes HUGE power requirements of SLI and avoids the issues with multi-card solutions.
You shouldn't worry about x16/x16 SLI capabilities, cards don't tend to COME close to exceeding the bandwidth requirements for PCI-E X16 (version 1, PCI-E 2.0 bandwidth is double so X8 = gen1 X16 speed, if that makes sense. New boards are PCI-E 2). This board will run one card at X16 and the other at X8 speed, which is plenty fast enough.
Most of the Core i7 boards out there are great, so the board choice isn't too important ... they're practically all high end boards, with matching features.I guess a GTX 280 because you will get more FPS in games.Thanks Calum for the advice, it really helped. Should the release of DX11 worry me at all when thinking about purchasing a graphics card now? I have heard most games won't begin using DX11 for quite some time (maybe a year or more from now).I wouldn't base your purchase on DX11 support.
Think back to 2006, when the first DX10 cards were released. By the time DX10 games were released, the cards couldn't handle the games at that level of detail (think 8800GTS and Crysis on maximum - Crysis under Vista runs in DX10 mode, but you won't see any difference unless you go to the maximum settings, which is the only level where DX10 effects are used I believe).
It'll most likely be the same with DX11, by the time any decent games that use DX11 in a way that makes you want to use it are released you'll need a new card anyway. Besides, you can always play them in DX10 mode, so I don't see that being a problem.
I certainly would just go for whatever is the best value and not worry about features that may or may not be necessary or desirable in a few YEARS time.

Trying to backup computer to disk don't have any floppys computer will not let me backup to CD how do I change thisThere is software you can use such as discimageHow do you PLAN on BACKING up and what are you backing up ? ?

An imaging app CREATES a full image of your entire HDD...

I use and highly recommend Acronis True Image.

But there are others.I should have mentioned Acronis to begin with. Thumbs up on thatThanx...

Here is my personal review of Macrium Reflect...an excellent FREE ALTERNATIVE....Im going to try it Patio>FREE why notBest of Luck....
I found it more than adequate for most USERS as you saw in my review.

i already had tried the cable at both ends, however, when i opened the case i did noticed that the ide ribbon cable was really twisted and crumpled. maybe it is damaged. i will try a replacement. thanks evryone for your input. i welcome any other suggestions.

regardsThat certainly can't hurt to try. SOMETIMES it really is that simple.OK. CHANGING THE CABLE DID NOT WORK. HOWEVER, WHEN I UNPLUG THE IDE CABLE, REBOOT THE MACHINE, SHUTDOWN, RE INSTALL THE CABLE AND REBOOT, IT WORKS UNTIL THE DISK IS TAKEN OUT AND A NEW DISK IS INSERTED. THEN IT STOPS WORKING AGAIN. WHAT DO YOU THINK?That sounds like the on board controller. Do you have your optical drive on the same ribbon as your hard drive, or is the optical on Controller 2?it might be needing flash updated though i would be very careful , this cannot be erased unless it is possible to flash back to an earlier flash version.

Did they say anything bad about it when you got it back from the shop?

is it just that disc or are they all not working?

if it is on the same IDE then youll need to use the DVD as master and everything else as slave...

you can set that inside the pc using the jumpers (plasic thingies ) on the pins on the back of the DEVICE

it will tell you either on the device or in the manual what you need to do to ensure you have the right one selected!the optical drive is not on the same ribbon as the hard drive. it CONNECTS at a separate location on the MOTHER board. it is identified on the bios as secondary drive 0. the hardrive is primary drive 0.Hook it up as a slave on the Primary IDE channel to see if it's the drive or controller...Quote

it might be needing flash updated though i would be very careful

With all of the inherent problems and dangers with flashing a BIOS, please don't use it as anything but a last resort.

Hi,

I just recently reformatted my PC, and it is still running slow. I have decided it was time to upgrade a component of two, but I am having a hard time figuring out what would give me the best performance increase. Here is my current configuration:

Mainboard :Asus P5W DH Deluxe
Processor :Intel Core 2 Duo E4400 @ 2000 MHz
Physical Memory :2048 MB (2 x 1024 DDR2-SDRAM ) PC2-6400 (399 MHz) - [DDR2-800]
Video Card :NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS

So basically my question is: which part should I most upgrade in my computer? I also don't want to go too expensive.

Thanks in advance!What exactly do you want to do with it? What kind of programmes do you want to use?Oh, I forgot to specify. It is simply heavy multitasking. I often have 6 or 7 different Internet Windows Open, along with a game, a media player, 2 or 3 word documents, MSN Messenger, a torrent client...Add as much memory as you can afford...it's relatively cheap these days and it's the single most economical way of increasing performance.I just checked, and my motherboard can handle up to 8GB of PC-6400 DDR2 RAM. Considering I have currently 2 sticks of 1GB of PC-6400 each, should I just buy a 4GB pack for a total of 6GB? Or would this have any side effects?
What version of Windows are you using...

A 32-bit version of Windows is limited to a maximum of 4 GB RAM, and so will not give you the full memory for your applications—operating system processes are mapped into the address space, resulting in an effective memory capacity of 3 GB, or sometimes a bit more. Effectively, the maximum memory capacity is limited to only 3+ GB...... A 64-bit version of Windows will give you access to more available memory as you add it. *

Toms Hardware...*
I am using Windows XP Pro... sorry for not mentionning it earlier!Then anything over 4G is wasted...I know there are certain combinations that work better than others. For example, I currently have 2 sticks of 1 GB each. Adding 1 stick of 2 GB would give me a total of 4, but shouldn't I be better off with 2 sticks of 2 GB each?See your MBoard manual for reccomendations...
But in general 2 LIKE sized stiks normally perform better.It might be a good idea to buy your 4GB (if that is what you want) all from the same manufacturer , a pack of sticks is always a good idea doing this since you might get a little discount.

The reason for this is that all motherboards run at certain RAM frequencies

for example mine runs with RAM from 267 MHz up to 667MHz

but if your other sticks of RAM are slower than yourbought RAM then you wont get the speed of the ram you bought because ram will slow down to equal the slower speed.

Also look out for what type of ram you have ... there are around four types that i know of , DDR , DDR2 , DDR3 and one other that i cant remember right now.
Your motheroard will only accept the memory which is that type (DDR2 , DDR3 etc)
DDR2 seems to be the most widely used in modern computers or there mobos
I have googled your mobo and the ram seems to be DDR2 but double check , don't go on my word.


You gould possibly get an update on your processor but it seems to be a good one... keep an eye out for new ONES though cos i think you might be needing an upgrade pretty soon... if you decide to do this you should get a quad core , especially since you multitask alot.

I would reccomend getting a new graphics card aswell but it is not really needed unless you ENJOY games like unreal tournament 3 or any other high powered game. I GOT an inno3D 9400 GT graphics card for £50 ( 81.86 US dollars )
I'm also going to suggest that you try cleaning some of the clutter from the machine. Check for unnecessary services and unnecessary startup items. MAYBE set Windows to use less "eye candy", sure it looks great but it's a resource hog. I also recommend setting your page file to a static size, that will decrease the fragmentation level for it.

Definately go with the RAM upgrade, and like patio says, make sure that you are getting the correct RAM for the mother board. Make sure it is a known brand, Kingston is great.

So I got an older computer (Compaq Presario 5000 Series/Bought it in Dec 2001) and It was working FINE until the power went out in my house. Now I hear the Computer Power up but nothing is on the Monitor, Iv tried a few different monitors, Is it the Video Card? How WOULD I know if its the video card, I really don't want to buy one if its not the problem.

If anyone could give me some tips or help that be great. Thanks. You could try using the monitor on another computer and try a different monitor on the computer in question. Quite often a 'Surge' is associated with power failures, that gets rather technical so I won't go into that here. Usually the components inside the computer are far more susceptive to these surges than monitors are though.If the power went out and when it came back on the surge could have taken the power supply out and the board.I would replace the power supply first, Use a power supply of equal watt or greater.Quote

Iv tried a few different monitors,

Quote from: luck of the irish on June 26, 2009, 06:34:11 PM

OK any other errors at that time?

That's the Service Control Manager, and the service listed is AVG. I recommend uninstalling it and reinstalling it.

Just remember to update the definition files after you reinstall it.

That's for AVG, it's an anti-virus program so it needs updated definition files.

The error about line 891 doesn't mean a darned thing to me. I need BSOD information, or something from the even viewer to work with.

Okay this is what Im getting when the bsod pops up"Kernal Stack inpage error" Technical info stop (0xc0000185, 0xc0000185, 0x00000000, 0x0a79f000)

I dont have a clue what hey all mean.

Hello all!

This is my first post here, I hope someone can help me! Ok, I just put together a new system; nothing fancy, just an upgrade to my older P4 system. I started off with a brand new mobo and used my old CPU. At first I tried to have the system initially boot to the hard drive that had Windows XP and all the FILES from the old PC on it, but that drive was pretty messed up from years of junk and POSSIBLY infected files, so it wouldn't boot up. I had a spare "clean" drive, so I just started fresh with a brand new intall of XP.

My question is... is it possible to have my new system run both drives with Windows XP on them so I can at least get some of the more important files and folders from the old OS drive to the new one? And please don't suggest a "networking" solution... I'd like to be ABLE to just copy and paste files from one to the other without all that aggravation.

Thanks for your time!

J.G.You need the drive to be working to move files from it. Is the drive backed up? I know it's a simple one but let's start with the basics.Quote from: Mulreay on JULY 03, 2009, 06:46:37 AM

You need the drive to be working to move files from it. Is the drive backed up? I know it's a simple one but let's start with the basics.

Quote from: Gizmologist on July 02, 2009, 09:39:32 PM

May I suggest a self engineered frontal lobotomy?
What?You wouldn't try it?

This speaks volumes...

I will let this thread lie as it may...however in future if it degenerates into what's been mentioned above Posts will be removed immediately.

Hopefully we can all learn from this and move on in an Adult manner.

patio.

I am planning to build a PC and I want to know if I chose good parts to build a system. I am going to use this for High-preformance tasks. My existing PC will become a server.
You can reply if they are good or imcompatible.
149.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115059 CPU
084.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128380 MB
045.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227269 RAM

049.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814134067 VDO
027.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106121 NIC

015.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817709010 PSU
029.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147074 CASE

099.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148433 HDD
016.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106085 DVDRW
017.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106274 DVDROM
About $600 with S & H
FULL SPECS:
Core 2 Duo 3.06GHz
4GB RAM
nVidia Geforce 9500GT
Intel PRO 10/100/1000 NIC (PCI card)
1TB Seagate HARD Drive
DVD RW Primary Optical Drive
DVD ROM Secondary Optical Drive
500W Power Supply & Black Case (Sold Separately)
I will keep this for six years from 2009 to 2015-2016, even though it is cheaper to go to Dell.com and buy a PC with lots of trash, and I feel that I am more confident on DIY PCs.
I will add a floppy drive but it is ordered from a retail store.Welcome to the forums.

My thoughts - graphics card is very weak if you want to play games.
Not sure on the sound card but I'd recommend either sticking with onboard or jumping to an X-Fi, Xonar or Auzentech - judging by the price that's a low end card, but correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm not sure of the quality of Sunbeam PSUs without Googling it.
Is a separate NIC necessary here? Onboard is good enough for most people.I'd also adding to Calum's good suggestions spend a bit extra for 2 DVD burners instead of just swapping in a reader only...
It can come in handy.

PSU's should be a priority ...not a budget saving exercise.I would suggest a bigger power unit (they come in handy) and a better graphics card. You can get much better for your money.

I have a 9400GT and you can get much better than that for its price (£50)I'm not sure what you mean by high performance tasks, this following should do just about anything short of really CPU intensive tasks. If that is your plan, upgrade the mobo to the Gigabyte EP45-UD3L and get a q8200 quad core CPU and downgrade GPU.
Heavy (budget) gaming:
69.99 CPU - Intel e5200 2.5GHz
49.99 Mobo - ECS G31T-M(1.0) Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
99.99 PSU - CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W
46.99 RAM - G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
54.95 CASE - Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case (*free SHIPPING*)
74.99 HDD - Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB 3.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive
24.99 DVD - Any of several
109.99 GPU - EVGA 512-P3-N841-AR GeForce 8800GTS (G92)

496.80 total
Apart from the cheap motherboard, that's a good build from Aardobard there, nice price too.
Welcome aboard.

Oh, I have a 9500GT in my server, and trust me when I say the performance is nothing compared to my 8800GT, which in turn is no longer considered to be high-end by those people with too much money interested in such things.I agree that Aardobard showed cheaper specs but is worse because:
1. His specs has a more power-consuming power supply
2. The CPU he showed is a Pentium Dual Core, mine is a Core 2 Duo which is almost the same CPU
3. His motherboard has less space for upgrading
Good parts are:
1. Better GPU
2. Faster Hard Drive
3. About $100 cheaperYour assessment of my recommendations is accurate. I was pushed for time when I made them, so let me explain a few of my choices:

PSU - is a great PSU and it is WAAAY overkill for the rest of the system, however, it was the same (sale) price as the PSU I was going to recommend (Corsair 550VX) and excels in every way.

Mobo - is adequate for the hardware (and I own one! ) with minimal EXPENSE. The EP45-UD3L I referenced in my post is a great alternative for not a lot more and is also a proven overclocker if that appeals to you.

CPU - I like the e5200 because it is solid as is and overclocks EASILY with a board like the EP45-UD3L even on a stock cooler, although getting an aftermarket cooler can be helpful when overclocking. It is inferior to (and half the price of) the e7600 in your original post, however, at $150, I'd find it hard not to go with a quad core like the q8200 for $160.

It can be hard to design a system with vague information and get it just right. I'm glad you liked some of the recommendations and I hope it gives you a place to start and modify for your specific purposes. If you need any more assistance, I'd be glad to help.A power supply rated at a certain wattage doesn't mean it consumes that power, rather that it can supply that amount of power.
A PSU with more power available leaves more room for expansion.
Nothing wrong with an E5200, if you compare the price and performance of that vs. the E7600 I'm sure you'd see why the E5200 is a good recommendation. The E7600 is 3 times the price, for a 500MHz increase in clock speed and a little more cache.
The E7 series is not a full-blown Core 2 Duo anyway, in terms of the FSB and cache - Pentium Dual Core vs Core 2 Duo is mainly marketing hype.Quote from: Calum on June 21, 2009, 12:19:58 PM

Welcome to the forums.

My thoughts - graphics card is very weak if you want to play games.
Not sure on the sound card but I'd recommend either sticking with onboard or jumping to an X-Fi, Xonar or Auzentech - judging by the price that's a low end card, but correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm not sure of the quality of Sunbeam PSUs without Googling it.
Is a separate NIC necessary here? Onboard is good enough for most people.

According to Calum, I may stick with onboard audio if it is a generic type.

You will get OK audio through an integrated sound card, but you will get far better audio through a decent addon sound card.

This is my event log i hope i done i right my problem is that i have brought a new graphics card an power pack for my system and i carnt seem to play games like sims 3 or 2 plus playboy the mansion i havnt tried any other games as dont have any but i still think they wouldnt work any way .so if any 1 can help me i will be very very gratefull as this is doin my head in now and i dnt wanna go out and buy a new motherboard and processer.
This is my system
Intel pentium d 935 dual core 3.2
2gb Ram
Nvidia 9500gt 1gb
asus P5VD2-MX-SE motherboard
1x320gb sata hdd 1x120gb sata hdd
700watt X-Power power supply

[attachment deleted by admin]what is happening?did you install the drivers for your new card?Quote from: BC_Programmer on June 27, 2009, 12:40:53 PM

did you install the drivers for your new card?

New or used vid card ? ?
Has it worked in the past ? ?

i have reistalled my drivers ive done a fresh install and installed all my drivers again my sound my nvidia graphics upto date ones direct x 9 service pack 2 iv run windows update to update everything and it jus crashes i tryed gta3 today and it jus flashed a blue screen and restarted after i pressed start game and the video started playin it froze then crashed any ideas ppl ..

what is happening?

err


you mean DX9... DX10 doesn't work on XP

hi guys
my girlfriend has a dell laptop from the stone ages...has an Intel M processor to give yall an estimated time range.
but as the title suggest...screen goes off
on a normal start up it goes to the profile selection screen then shuts off a couple seconds later
the screen shuts off when I try to go into safe mode
and screen shuts off moments after getting into bios.
now i can troubleshoot most software issues with computers but I can't do squat if I can't see what I'm doin.

the only thing i have yet to try as an idea is hook up a monitor to it and see if anything happens differently

my guess is a corrupt bios file (had one myself a few weeks AGO on my IBM/Lenovo T-60)
MAYBE a video driver...but why would it work for a few moments then crash........?!?!?!

I want to avoid getting her a NEW computer so if yall can think of anything worth trying go right ahead.

(i'll put in more computer information but I don't have any)Might be heat related....give it a good cleaning .Do you know if she recently installed or deleted anything? ALSO like Karnac SAID it might just need cleaning. But also if the screen shuts off when trying to go into safe mode then it seems as if a file is corrupted. Best case fix that you can do is attempt to repair or salvage any data she might want or b. like you said get her a new laptop which most likely would do her best in this situationQuote

hook up a monitor

Hey there,

I want to turn off Windows Disk Protection because I don't want it on my PC. However, I can't find how to turn it off. Apparently you need to GO into Windows SteadyState, and after trying to download this program it told me I have it on the PC already, but I can't find it anywhere on the PC.

Any HELP would truly be greatly appreciated, as this is annoying me an awful lot.

Thanks.What program did you try to install?

What OS and service PACK are you running?

Can I change the video settings for windows in safe mode?

I recently DOWNLOADED a version of flashplayer (flash_player_v10.exe and im almost 100% sure that it was a virus. My Norton Anti-Virus detected many viruses and removed them, however I believe the virus is still on my COMPUTER. A day later, I found that my sound icon was missing from the bottom right hand corner. I investigated further and found that the Audio and Sound DEVICES tab(control panel) had no audio device registered and I could not play sounds, or adjust volume for my audio device. Under device manager I have Conexant AC- Link Audio as the device which is enabled along with all the other devices. However, I think the problem lies elsewhere. I also ran DXDIAG in run which gave me a system diagnosis which gave me the following errors.DirectSound TEST results: Failure at step 3
(DirectSoundCreate): HRESULT = 0x88780032 (error CODE)and DirectMusic test results: Failure at step 6 (Activating the IDirectMusicPort): HRESULT = 0x88780032 (error code)
Which leads me to believe that my Microsoft Synthesizer is coruppt? I have tried everything so please help me out here.
Please don't double post.

Continue in your other topic.