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Here is our problem: We have several custom-built computers that are housed in 3U rack-mount enclosures. They all have INTEL MB MODELS D915GAV/D915PGN. Lately on a couple of the units the onboard NIC has failed. Now I am having more difficulty than I imagined obtaining a PCI NIC with both a low-profile bracket and Wake-on-LAN.

I have tried a couple from D-Link, but can't seem to get the Wake on LAN to work.

Any SUGGESTIONS?

Thanks in advance.I had a similar problem.

My Dell small form factor desktop computer does not accept standard size brackets. I located a wireless adapter that was small size, but had a regular bracket on it. I found there are sources of brackets that can be adapted to most small cards.

You can do a Google for half HEIGHT brackets.




Many Modern Retail Intel NICs should support Wake on LAN. Also, you would get 1000BaseT support which is useful.

To add onto my last comment, I wonder if there is an IP Camera Tool that will record onto a hard drive.

I can't check at the moment, but it might be worth a look.

Make sure you use the camera's Local IP Address rather than its online address. This way you don't go trough your ISP.I really NEED 24/7 surveillance. So see what you can find when you get time.
I'm using my ISP (AT&T) modem / wireless router now, but I have an extra 802.11 router that I can use if need be. I'll do some experimenting with it and post back if I can figure anything out.
Thanks again CD!
MikeI found this:
http://www.webcamxp.com/products.aspx
One of the features of the free version:
Quote

capturing and recording features (including IP Cameras / ASF streams)

My friend at work was telling me about his "IP cam" which he has on his home network. It records onto his 2 TB NAS box, and he is running motion-detection software. If this is triggered, he is sent an email and he can then log in via the web and see if anything happened. At the moment it is sending him around 10 false alarms per day, and he needs to lower the threshold somewhat, he thinks.

All you need now is stuff they would want to break in for and steal...

Hey guys I'm LOOKING to UPGRADE my power supply and I was WONDERING if you guys could give me some tips on choosing one and Things which I need to look out for when buying one


(im generally going for 750-800 watts if any of you know of a good psu that you are finding good please point it out for me)


ThankyouHello, it all depends on your specs on your pc most common is graphics card, DEPENDING on which graphics card you have you might need specific power in order to allow it operate to its full effectiveness, how much you looking to spend ? and provide me a list of your specs EVEN if it's a print screen from dxdiag.

Cheers,

Hi my pc screen has suddenly changed to being almost widescreen - I have tried changing the resolution and zoom but no luck. I am on windows 7 and have a Packard bell PC and monitor - Packard bell simple control model. I have tried the monitor settings, tools on internet explorer etc can anyone help. I am sure my daughter has pressed a button. Resolution is currently set at 1280 X 1024 and zoom is at 100%. The icons on the desktop are smaller and stretched and any photo's viewed look as though they are stretched and on landscape. I cannot now VIEW photo's etc can anyone help?

StevenRight click on the Desktop and go to Screen Resolution.

Try changing the values.Unfortunately tried all the resolutions and no joy

StevenCould you take a photo of the screen and post it up in your next comment?

It would be useful to actually see what's going on here.Hi hopefully you can see from this recent photo how stretched the image is

Thanks

Steven

Where's the photo ? ?I meant an actual photo of the computer screen.

To us, that photo looks fine. It is most likely to do with your resolution.Am i missing the photo ? ?You can't see the photo he uploaded?Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on April 16, 2013, 03:56:33 PM

You can't see the photo he uploaded?

Nope...may be my Adblocker.

Photobucket is blocked?

No...i see no photo.

Hello, as the subject says my printer won't stay powered on. It worked fine a few months back, I didn't use for it while so I had it stored away. Now when I HOOK it up it won't stay powered on. I press the POWER button, the green light flashes but goes right back off.

I TRY to print a page and I can see in going on and offline and printing gives says error. The print is a old printer, Hewlett Packard Deskjet 812C.

It's hookuped up to a Sony Vaio with Windows Vista. Anyone other info needed just ask. If anyone can GIVE some help, i'd appreciate it.

Thanks.I don't see where there's anything we can help with. Sounds like the printer either needs to be repaired or replaced.noxxo, It may well be that a new printer (as Allan suggests) may be in your future. However there are some THINGS you can try first. If you have the access to another computer try it on that. Of course you will need to have the software for the printer available and then follow the manual's precise installation sequence. I assume that neither the computer or the operating system have changed from what you had used this printer on before? Another thing you can do is uninstall any software previously installed for that printer as well as removing it from "hardware".Then with your manual in hand try a new install and see what happens. Is it safe to assume that while this one was stored away no other printer was connected to that computer?truenorth

That i USED my RECOVERY DISK and REINSTALLED WINDOWS.

I have NEVER EVER heard that HDD can catch on fire by itself
Unless pc was "Self-Built" and the PSU was too strong.
Maybe the fire started somewhere near the HDD and just got onto it.
I had one similar problem with external HDD that i put into my OLD HP computer. I plugged the wrong PSU so it overheated and Read/Write heads melted.
Quote from: Hackeriz on April 12, 2013, 06:02:43 AM

I have NEVER EVER heard that HDD can catch on fire by itself
Unless pc was "Self-Built" and the PSU was too strong.
Maybe the fire started somewhere near the HDD and just got onto it.
I had one similar problem with external HDD that i put into my old HP computer. I plugged the wrong PSU so it overheated and Read/Write heads melted.

Anything with electronics can catch fire if you put enough electricity through it, I would think.

Anything with electronics can catch fire if you put enough electricity through it, I would think.

From P4 to dual core. How?
From a rather superficial search I did on Google, it would seem that if you have a motherboard with his 775 socket, it can be upgraded to a dual core processor rather than the P4 processor that came with the board. But before I invest in a dual core processor, I want to find out if others have done this and it works good.
Okay, let's SAY just if that works at all!
If the motherboard has that Super Duke new 775 socket, which is not a socket, doesn't mean you can realy upgrade to a better Intel processor using the same motherboard? Or is the new 775 socket just a marketing ploy to get you to buy something that's not really upgradable?

Any comments please.
the motherboard has to support dual core or quad-core processors if your going to use one. Sometimes these are offered through BIOS updates.Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 17, 2009, 04:46:35 PM

the motherboard has to support dual core or quad-core processors if your going to use one. Sometimes these are offered through BIOS updates.

As the topic stated I'm looking for a GOOD trackball mouse but I can't find any that are in the style that I like. I used to have a BRILLIANT mouse that had the ball on top controlled by your index and middle finger (first part is easy enough to find) and the buttons on the side to be used by your thumb (this is the hard part). EVERY time I do come across a mouse in this style I find that it is an antique on sale for in excess of £100 used.

This is somewhat close to what I was after but it turns out to be one of those sort after antiques:
http://www.productwiki.com/upload/images/microsoft_trackball_explorer.jpgNot their only Model...

And new...There is nothing right about that mouse.

That one has a thumb operated ball and finger operated buttons, the norm for these mice nowadays. Unfortunately I find these mice to be backwards, the equivalent of a left handed mouse if you will.

I have now used the terms mice and mouse so often now that it sounds weird... As i mentioned it's not the only one...
Did you happen to visit their site ? ?

Quote

I have now used the terms mice and mouse so often now that it sounds weird...

My friend has this mouse:
http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/trackman-marble?crid=8

It's brilliant! My only beef with it - no scrolling.

Edit: And no middle click.

Technically the plural for a computer mouse is mouses

Quote from: SOYBEAN on December 11, 2009, 08:12:13 PM

I wouldn't downplay that point. If he cannot USE an LCD monitor at it's maximum, or "native, resolution and consistently has to use it with less than optimum clarity on the screen, I think I'd not be very satisfied with that. I think I'd rather have a monitor with a smaller max/native resolution or upgrade the graphics card.

Most displays will work on most systems. Except if you have a 30" LCD on a VGA interface.

Most displays will work on most systems. Except if you have a 30" LCD on a VGA interface.

I was wondering if my build will work. I'm new to computer building and very excited to do so for my first time. I am building for gaming, if anything is missing or incorrect I would love suggestions.

Case: Thermaltake Chaser MK-I

Video Card: PNY VCGGTX660XPB GeForce GTX 660 2GB

Motherboard: ASUS P8B75-V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

HDD: Seagate Barracuda STBD2000101 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

SSD: ADATA Premier Pro SP900 ASP900S3-64GM-C 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570 Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2500 BX80637i53570

RAM: G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-1333C9D-16GAO

Aftermarket CPU Fan: COOLER MASTER Hyper N 520 RR-920-N520-GP 92mm Sleeve CPU Cooler

PSU: FSP Group AURUM GOLD 750W (AU-750M) ATX12V/EPS12V Modular Flat Cable, 80 PLUS GOLD

Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Well those are all the parts you would need to build the computer, if you get stuck building it let me know and i can provide you with some help if needed.

Thanks,A you sure that you're new to this?

Very nice set up.Thats a nice system build for a first time build. My first time ever computer build out of new parts was back in 2001. College professor gave us all the option for bonus points towards final exam of up to 25 points if you built your own computer. I asked if I could build one out of used parts, in which i would show him a box of guts and assemble it all to run and document the process etc. He said that was not allowed, it had to be brand new parts purchased or no credit at all.

So I tracked down the cheapest build I could perform for around $300 in early 2001. System specs were:

Celeron Socket 370 733Mhz from www.jdr.com $50
128MB PC-66 SDRAM from Staples $40
Motherboard was Socket 370 supporting up to 866Mhz PIII CPU unknown brand from www.jdr.com $80
13GB IDE HDD ( ebay ) $20
48x CD-Rom Staples $50
Minitower computer case (generic - no-name) from www.jdr.com $30
Keyboard & Mouse $30

*Operating System = FREE Linux Redhat 6.0 ( LOTS of Fun getting that to work with Integrated Video Driver )

Got my 25 points full bonus credit, then bought and installed Windows 98SE Upgrade onto the system since it wasn't useful with RedHat 6 for my needs, and I was ABLE to use my prior unused Windows 95 CD to install Windows 98 SE on it cheaper I think it was $80 vs $120.

But the hardware was definately the wrong choice for a gamer. Going cheap was a mistake, but I also couldn't really afford to spend the $300 to begin with or any more than that for that matter and so I only got about 1 year of use out of it before I found myself having to sell it for $150 and move on to a more powerful system with a Pentium 4 CPU. The Celeron was so weak that playing games like Unreal Tournament 99, Driver, and a few other titles were laggy, and when GTA Vice City came out and it did not meet the minimum system requirements of 800Mhz CPU and the integrated GPU also was lacking, I tried to install a GeForce 4 MX 440 PCI with 64MB video Ram thinking the game should run on 733Mhz even though 800Mhz is minimum, but it wouldnt run.

Then bought a open-box 2.00Ghz Pentium 4 HP Pavilion with Windows XP Home at Staples for 33% off and thought I got a heck of a deal until I got it home and found out that it didnt have a AGP slot like most other systems of the time. So I installed this GeForce 4 MX 440 PCI video card into 1 of the 3 available PCI slots and installed GeForce driver. And GTA Vice City once again would not run, just a cartwheel CD icon and then it would vanish. The video card was not powerful enough to play the game and the integrated Intel video with 64MB of shared memory in AGP bus also was too weak, so i had to sell this system at a $150 loss to get rid of it since Staples would not take it back as for the open-box computer was sold on clearance terms and I could only deal with HP with technical issues and the issue was that this tower was not designed to play games with any heavy graphics.

You should be all set though with your build, you are not building cheap and I am guessing you are a gamer and will get the most out of the system. A system like this will probably last you 5 years or so, with only having to replace the video card after 3 years with something newer for better frame rates etc depending on your gaming resource needs.

Glad your not going to make the same mistake that I made in going cheap! As for looking back at the money spent, it cost me more money not spending the money at the start. The others in college who took up this project were building sweet systems with the newest Pentium 4 1.7Ghz etc and sweet video cards and latest Windows XP OS etc. And I just built a wimpy Celeron 733Mhz for $300 running RedHat 6 At least I got a 117 score on final exam with the 25 extra points keeping it at a A+ vs 92
Meanwhile he's been abducted by aliens...Quote

Meanwhile he's been abducted by aliens...

I am useing a 27" 720p Polaroid flat screen television as my computer monitor for the time being but while browseing the internet I am missing a portion of my screen that should be displayed on the right and bottom of my screen. Example: If I am attempting to play a game on virtualnes.com I bring a game up even in the small like 6x6 screen it gives me to play on say I play battle chess I am missing the majority of the right SQUARES and the bottom squares.Example2: I am missing a small portion of this screen I am on right now.

I am FAMILIAR with some things on computers so I am thinking its possibly a problem with the windows((internet windows)) screen ration or something, not sure though. Be very greatful for some help. Thanks.1. Could you give the make/model of the computer


2. Have you tried reinstalling and/or updating the video driver..It's a 27" 720p Polaroid.

And I dunno how to reinstall/update a video driverTo uninstall/reinstall the video driver in Vista do this:

Click START, type "device manager", when dev. manager APPEARS in the menu, click on it to open it... When it displays your list of hardware, click on the "+" sign next to "DISPLAY adapters", right click on the item in the submenu, click "uninstall" and restart the computer.NOTE: if there is more than one item in the submenu, please tell me........Upon restarting, Windows will reload the driver for you. Try browsing again and see if the problem is corrected. If not, repeat the steps I just said, except do not click on "uninstall", click on "update"... and let Windows go out on the Internet to look for an UPDATED driver for your video..


Also, you gave me the make/model of your TV I need the make/model of the computer that the TV is attached to.... And if you have added a video card to the computer since you bought it, I'll need the make/model of that too... Oh I apologize lol. The computer is a Dell/inspiron.530? IntelCeleron? lol. I believe that's the info your looking for. So did reinstalling/updating the video driver help?

A good power supply was then connected but

So I'm currently buying a new ultrabook and have finally decided on one. However, I found two slightly different versions with a $20 difference. One has a 4 GB RAM with a 24 GB SSD and the other had a 6 GB RAM. What difference will these two options have if everything else is entirely identical in them (500 GB Hardrive, Intel Core i5 3317U 1.7 GHz PROCESSOR, etc.)

The links to the two computers are below.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F1JL5A/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Asus---Ultrabook-14%22-Touch-Screen-Laptop---6GB-Memory---500GB-Hard-Drive---Black/Silver/7683137.p?skuId=7683137&sellerId=15329835&id=1218858193075#tab=accessories

Thank you!
Hello and welcome to the forums!

Let's look at the RAM first.
RAM, Random Access Memory, is used for multitasking. More RAM = more background applications.
Personally, I would go for 6GB RAM. The more the merrier. However, the computer will still work great with only 4GB. Windows 8 only requires 2GB of RAM.

Now the storage medium is where it gets interesting.
The cheaper option just has a 500GB hard drive. You can't go wrong there. 500GB of solid disk space.

The more expensive option has a 500GB HDD + 24GB SSD. This is known as a Hybrid Drive - essentially merging HDD and SSD technology.
HDD = Hard Disk Drive, and SSD = Solid State Drive - much like USB flash memory sticks.
This Hybrid drive actively monitors your data and automatically puts your most frequently accessed data onto the SSD for faster loading times.
SSDs read and write much faster than HDDs. By placing, for example, your operating system on the SSD portion of the drive, you can load the Windows faster than if you were loading it from the Hard Disk.
Your larger files, such as movies or music, would be placed on the HDD portion of the drive.

I know I said I would go for the 6GB RAM option, but you can always add more RAM. It will be considerably more expensive to buy a new Hybrid Drive.

If you can spare the extra change, the Amazon one would be a better buy.

If you are ever unhappy with the RAM, ~$40 would get you an additional 4GB.So from what you just told me in sounds like if I do more multi-tasking (i.e. multiple powerpoints, word documents, and internet pages open) the 6GB version would be better. However, if I prefer faster bootup I should go with the version including the SDD.

And this is presuming I do not upgrade the RAM on the smaller one.4GB of RAM is plenty for the average user.
The only situation that would require more RAM would be for video gaming.
PowerPoints, Youtube, Netflix, Itunes - all open at the same time - wouldn't come CLOSE to fulfilling your 4GB quota.

Quote from: whitfi51 on April 12, 2013, 10:11:09 PM

However, if I prefer faster bootup I should go with the version including the SDD.

...SSDs read much faster than HDDs, but HDDs write much faster than SSDs...

This is a good article that covers the basics of Hybrid Drives:
http://www.ehow.com/info_7837298_advantages-hybrid-drive-system.html

Fast Data Access

Reading and writing data to flash memory is much faster than to a hard disk. When retrieving documents or loading programs, the hybrid drive has the user up and running much faster than a standard hard disk drive. The hybrid has the storage capacity of a standard drive with the quick loading speed of a solid-state technology, which is perhaps its biggest advantage."

how much should i PAY for a used

3.5-inch EXTERNAL SATA DOCK with 750GB HDD

thank you.30 Bucks...

I have made a slide show for a business project USING Roxio 2010. It works just fine............ the pictures are burned at the highest resolution and when the DVD is played on a "regular" TV the pictures look very good. However when the DVD is played on an HDTV the larger the screen the more pixaleted the pictures look. I was told that a regular DVD "sends out" a smaller image so the screen will show greater "pixalation". The resolution for this problem was PUTTING the pictures on a blue ray DISC which would show the images much better, on a blue ray player of course. Is it POSSBILE to burn my pictures onto a blue ray ? Does one need a blue ray disc? Can it be done with Roxio 2010? If not is there a free PROGRAM that can burn pictures to a blue ray disc?

Thanks,
Peter you need a blu-ray burner and a blu-ray disc.

most burning software for regular DVDs works with blu-ray too.

only my MASTER first then slave..

YEAH sotrage i need i CANT DOWNLOAD anything no memory =\

My old DELL XPS Gen2 with 3 SATA drives died and is irrecoverable so I temporarily replaced it with a old DELL Optiplex gx620 that I gassed up with a 1T DRIVE and extra RAM.

The PROBLEM I am having is I need to transfer the data from the removed drives to the Optiplex. Any suggestions?

Problem:
The Optiplex can only accommodate 1 drive at a TIME.
I bought a D-Link Network drive ENCLOSURE but it wants to format the drives before activating (defeats the PURPOSE)

How can I get the data from one drive to the other? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156017

I recently went to extract pictures off my camera when I realised my computer was no longer RECOGNIZING any drives other then c,d, and e. normally There are many many others, f-l or so. Now my computer doesn't recognize any of the extra usb slots or the slots used for memory cards. I am running vista on my xps dell computer which is only 2 years old or so. Any help would be greatly appreciated.What are all of those drives? One hd, multiple hd's, external drives? LOOK in Disk Management - what do you SEE? Look in Device Mgr - any yellow exclamation marks?Everything looks normal, the only exclamation mark is for something that says BT MiniReceiver. I have 2 usb drives up front, something labeled 1394, 3 different memory stick slots, a SM SLOT, xD slot, and CF/MD slot.Let's start again. What are all of those drives you mentioned? And what do you see in disk management (are all of those drives there)?They are drive F-N and they do not show up in disk managmentAND F-N IS WHAT??Quote from: cschohn on December 18, 2009, 03:36:34 PM

Everything looks normal, the only exclamation mark is for something that says BT MiniReceiver. I have 2 usb drives up front, something labeled 1394, 3 different memory stick slots, a sm slot, xD slot, and CF/MD slot.

AND F-N IS WHAT??

Hi, I m from germany.

This is my Hardware:

Intel QUAD 3ghz
amd ATI hd radeon 4870x2
4gb ddr3

i ve got a problem with my radeons

for some reason they tend to shut down my PC
at first i thought it might be the heat! but i checked and it ain t...
now i think it could be caused be my memory to be filled?!? but each of my CARDS have 1gb memory on its own...

when my pc is shut down (or do you call it BREAK down?^^ i don t know) my screen says aomething like:" incorrect information..." or the screen is black and i hear the last audio-order repeated like a mashinegun^^
the fans continue but my keyboards and mouses lights turn off?!?

is someone out there who might have an idea.... T_T
i m just a 19 years old boy who needs help badly...

i checked some german forums without solution...
help plz^^
What is the Brand and specs of your current PSU ? ?850... it should be enough... i really don t see the reason for it to crash...

can somebody list causes for pcs to crash?? maybe i find something i have not checked...^^850 does not answer my question...

this is the computer i have
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01357119&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=3644689

it says my power supply is 9.6 x 8.5 inches in SIZE.......


i bought a new video card,a 8800 gtx,but jsut found out i need a better power supply with at least 400 watts.
i want to get this one (im struggling money wise so need a GOOD price) http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8245532#Specifications its listed as 9.0 x 9.5 x 4.0???

my question is will this fit in my comp?? and if not can someone recommend one that will fit thats also really cheap in price???

thank you

There are basically only 3 sizes of PSU's...
ATX
Mini ATX
and micro.

If this is a full size machine any ATX PSU will fit...ahhhh.ok that shows i have a micro SIZED one in my comp....so does that mean my comp can only use micro sized psu's????i still cant FIGURE out if the one ill BUY will be too big to fit.



To be sure you can take the old one with you when shopping.Quote from: Schafer85 on December 19, 2009, 01:30:00 AM

...ok that shows i have a micro sized one in my comp.....
it says my power supply is 9.6 x 8.5 inches in size.......

Hello there,
I really hope you can help me with this problem as I've been dealing with it for the last 2 weeks and have become hopeless...

My brother recently had problems with his internet, so he gave it to me to solve the problem.
His laptop is an HP Pavillion dv9005us with Windows XP SP2.

The first time i looked at the laptop, I noticed that there was no connect-to menu in the start menu, and that there was no wireless network connection icon in the right-bottom corner. So I looked up which wireless network ADAPTER he was using, and it comes actually in the laptop, but the device manager did not SHOW any missing network device, neither did it show any network device (other than the1394 net adapter). The missing device is a Broadcom 802.11 Wireless Network Adapter. I had no idea what happened, but I downloaded the network adapter driver setup from hp's support website, and used that. It did not work, so I decided to reformat the PC.

After I formated the harddrive and reinstalled Windows XP I also reinstalled the network driver, and it worked. However, after I shut down and turned on the laptop, it didn't appear again! Same problem as before, the PC does not detect the wireless network adapter. Then again I shutdown and turned on the PC and it worked again. So I formated everything again, but the problem remained. So the only other thing I checked was the BIOS. When the system boots, I pressed F10 and checked all the options and noticed that in the boot order menu the network adapter had an exclamation mark next to it, still there was no explanation on what the meaning was.

I really hope you can help me out, because my brother really needs the wireless internet for university The onboard wireless may be dead...how old is the laptop ? ?
This may come down to adding a wireless card to it.
Did you re-install the laptop MBoard drivers from the driver CD that shipped with the laptop ? ?Quote from: patio on November 02, 2008, 02:26:47 AM

The onboard wireless may be dead...how old is the laptop ? ?
This may come down to adding a wireless card to it.
Did you re-install the laptop MBoard drivers from the driver CD that shipped with the laptop ? ?

Hello, i am getting disk boot failure, whenever i try boot my SYSTEM, i just got new ram, and a screen, weird thing is, it happened as i changed to the ram, however, now no ram works at all, i have tried to load bios in fail safe, still does it, i insert the disk, and it leads me to the windows install screen, i cant repair anything at all, it won't install windows on a new clean hdd either, unless i put it to ahci in the bios settings, after that, when it is done unfolding, and reboots, it gives me a disk error orcurred. I checked all the cables, tried the new and old ram, changed the boot order in bios, i tried loading 1 stick of ram in both sockets. The new ram i got is corsair dominator premium 1600mhz my motherboard is gigabyte ga-h55m-d2h, its windows 7 64bit, the old ram sticks Are just 1333mhz kingston, i then have a 7700 super oc gfx. The processor I5 760 2.89ghz.
Right now i do not know what to do, is it possible its the motherboard, i have had some issues with windows idling long before booting, and sometimes the sound when it was working, it froze, and didnt boot for 20min, whenever i clicked on something in the audio control, it froze for a longer time. Btw the error i got when i boot from cd and GET to the install screen, running bios in ide, gives me a disk controller error, which is where i need to change to ahci.

Anyway, any additional information ask.
Is it possible i need to replace my mobo? Or is the new ram faulty? Did they destroy the sockets? Hi

Try re SEATING the sata cables at the motherboard and hard drive first.

Lisamaree


i just tried to re seating the sata cables... Now it wont power on at all?

Stop trying to make this more difficult than it is. Just order a pci modem. It will fit.69Z28, While "ALLAN" has made a suggestion that will most likely get you up and running (maybe even quicker) it occurs to me that you are learning a great deal from this thread. It is also obvious that the absence of a working modem on the computer where it is causing the difficulties is NOT impeding your access to the internet (via an alternative computer i assume). So now that your modem is being recognized in both Everest and device manager it is highly probable that you do have a serviceable modem (not 100% guarantied but most probable). A 56k U.S. Robotics PCI will set you back under $20.00 so it now becomes a question as to whether you want to continue with trying to get the one you have working or go the replacement route.If you want to try and get the correct driver go again to device manager and go to "update driver". You can direct the search to a location on your HDD if you know where you stored the driver that you downloaded. Or select the option to search the web for it.Your picture definitely defines your modem as a PCI modem. I strongly suspect that your modem issue is going to be a software issue rather than the hardware. truenorthAllan and Truenorth...

I want to thank you both for the great info and the learning experience. As Truenorth said I have learned a great deal from this thread.

"I'm not worthy".

Yes I am no stranger to computers. I have 2 desk tops and a laptop I play with. My son gave me the one in question I am working on now. I was having OS software issues as well as the modem issue.

I was told and also read that OEM OS's could not be loaded to a non OEM computer. I tried it and I don't know how, but I installed my Dell inspiron 530 OEM WindowsXP OS on this plain jane computer and everything is working fine.

As for the modem, last night I went to a friends to check out his computer. I noticed that the modem was different to the one I have. It has the 3 contact SECTIONS. So he let me borrow it today. Let me say this, I went into this experience thinking that I was trying to screw a brick into light bulb socket...it just didn't compute. Funny huh?

Anyway, I found out that ALL i needed was to get a modem, thanks Allan. I pluged in my friends modem and it worked.

I'm trying to learn about computers the hard way. I hope I can count on your help as well as others in the future. I have loads of questions.

Thanks again
GaryQuote from: 69Z28 on December 18, 2009, 09:32:55 AM

I was told and also read that OEM OS's could not be loaded to a non OEM computer. I tried it and I don't know how, but I installed my Dell inspiron 530 OEM WindowsXP OS on this plain jane computer and everything is working fine.


Thanks again
Gary

That's not legal so you really don't want to be spreading it around.

Hi i was wondering if this looks LIKE my GRAPHIC card is going. . does anyone think its just the video card or the mother board? msg me back. thanks dannyInstalled any new hard/software recently ?
Have you opened the case and DONE any housekeeping ?
How OLD is the card ?
Tried re-installing the drivers ?I Put a new hard drive in and then took it out because i thought that was it but its still doing it.

No i haven't but i thought it might have been dusty so i blew into it to try and get rid of the dust.

The Card is about 3 years old as far as i know. i got the computer from a friend.

It wouldn't be the drivers because it does it before i even turn on the computer. when it goes to load the bios it sometimes is all messed up.Try to hook the monitor up to a different computer. If it works, the its your card.It's the card or the driver. It cannot possibly be the monitor.*smacks headQuote from: computeruler on December 19, 2009, 10:53:24 AM

*smacks head

Hi everyone - I was wondering if someone could give me some input (no pun) on some of the best input devices to use for doing things like cropping out picture elements to insert into other images. In other words; SOMETHING that can be used to do precise edge tracing of say a person in a photo, copy that portion out and save and/or paste the copied portion elsewhere.

I have used a decent mouse to do this for a long time, but there has got to be something nicer to use for edge tracing - I just don't know which to look at, a drawing tablet? A mouse pen that actually works like a pen or pencil? (I tried one of the Penclic pens, the Mouse D2 and it was terrible). I need something that would WORK like having a pencil or pen, tracing out what I want form a photo or image and save it without having the results you normally get with a mouse or something and have to clean the edges up so much.

Any help and/or ideas on some piece of input hardware would be greatly appreciated!

JerrisPro graphics designers use tools bother that some kind of mouse.
A Puck is often used in CAD work. On a table it has absolute position.
A pressure pen is used fro free hand drawing. It can be pressure sensitive.
Either can be wireless when used on a SPECIAL tablet.
A mouse can also be used on the tablet.

In the image above note the tablet has special areas to invoke functions of you art editor. Check before you BUY which tools work with the programs you use.
Prices vary a lot. Expect to pay hundreds of dollars for a real good processional set of tools. It depends on your needs.
Here is an introduction.

Graphics Tablet Features and Advantages
EDIT: My recommendation: at least a 4 by 6 with two devices.; puck and pen.Thank you so much for the info - I had found that article too, was REALLY helpful in a sense but thought I'd see about finding some people that use this technique (actually masking is what it is called I think) to get their experience info too - BUT - the article you sent and info is the one I did find most useful and probably will point me towards this kind of setup - thank you - JerrisHere is another image. You can use it to paint on screen. That is kind of at the high end.


Here is a review of several popular digitizing tablets. These are more economical that a touch sensitive display.
http://www.intellireview.com/Top-Digitizing-Tablets/

But technology is advancing. A touch display might become affordable soon.
Take a look at this:
http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/sponsors-of-tomorrow/ultrabook.html?cid=sem117p211739&gclid=CL7R5Kzb2bYCFcfd4AodbjIA-A

I have 2 USB PORTS in the front panel. One is a 3.0 and the other is 2.0 . One has a mouse connected to it and the other has a wireless adapter that i use for internet access. I was sitting normally PC when my leg accidentally hit a wire which cause the whole PC to shutdown. After the restart everything SEEMED to be working except the 3.0 USB port in the front panel that had the wireless adapter. All other USB ports are working fine and i am not finding any problems anywhere else... What can i do to make it work again?I would remove all power and open a side panel to the case to see if the front header USB lead was dislodged...
If it has any scorch marks i wouldn't use it any longer.Okay i was wrong. The problem is far worse.. ALL my 3.0 USB ports are not working ( 2 in the back 1 in the front ) ... Only the 2.0 are working... What can i do?

EDIT :

I checked the BIOS and the USB 3.0 controller is ENABLED... Still not working.Then the USB 3.0 port on the MBoard is what shorted out...
See if there is another one you can use...if not you will have to get a PCI-E addon card...Okay i managed to make it work again. I checked the device manager but everything seemed fine. So i what i did was that i shutdown the PC then pulled out the Power supply cord and tried booting the PC by HOLDING the Startup button ( I read somewhere that this uses the +5V that the PSU has running when the PC is shutdown and sometimes fixes some bugs ). After that i replugged the power cord and started the PC normally. Opened the device manager again and this time there were 3 USB ports that had yellow "!" next to it. So i uninstalled and restarted the PC so that they automatically install again and everything worked fine.. All 3 USB ports are now back up. I hope this solution is useful for anyone else who faced a problem similar to me.
Good to hear you are fixed up...
NEVER heard that one before.

i have an asus eee pc with a 1.3 mp web cam BUILT into it. i have TRIED to go on control panel and HARDWARE SETTINGS but i cant seem to FIND it.
does anyone know what to do to help??

I have na external HDD with capacity 232GB and the problem is that I can write in this disk only 26GB, not more.
I formated it 3 or 4 times but still having the same problem. The external HDD looks like:


When I want to write more than 26GB on it, just stops writting and don't shows any error, it shows only the writing dialog box jus like following picture:

Question: Is there a way that i can fix this problem to use full capacity of HDD or it is time to buy a new one.
Thank you in advance for your patience taking time reading this topic and for your reply.
Cheers.
have you ever been able to use the full capacity? Is this a new drive? Did you get if off eBay?
I bought it unused about a year ago at a PC Shop, and yes I have had used the full capacity of it until two WEEKS ago.

Cheers.Hi

What format is the drive, NTFS or fat32. Also can you copy many smaller files under 2.0gb to the drive . How does the drive display in disk management in windows is it showing the full 232 gb.

Lisamaree

Answering your Questions:
Yes, I can copy files with less and more capacity (multiple files as WELL).
About other questions you made, please take a look at the following picture, I think you have the answers there.

Cheers.Hi

You could try HDD capacity restore a program from here http://hddguru.com/software/2007.07.20-HDD-Capacity-Restore-Tool/

If that doesn't work, then it's copy off the data and and re partition.

Thank you for the picture

Lisamaree


Is it only for one computer (I mean does it show half-capacity only in your pc ?) If it does, maybe computer is USING drive for paging file memory (Virtual RAM).
You can go and try doing this:

Windows 7:
Start > Right-Click on Computer > Properties > Advanced System Settings > Advanced Tab > Click Settings under Performance > Advanced Tab > Change under Virtual Memory > Uncheck Automatically manage paging file size for all drives > Highlight your drive > Select No paging file > Click Set > Click OK and close it will ask you to restart your computer, do it.It's an external data HDD...i don't think the pagefile exists on it...Just to be clear - when you say "Write more than 26GB on it", you mean:

You are trying to write files that would cause the drive to be at least 26GB full, regardless of the size of the file? (e.g., the drive is currently 25.5GB full, and you're trying to copy last night's "Project Runway" over, and it's hanging)....

As opposed to:

You are trying to copy a folder/file that contains more than 26GB in it at once.

I believe that was what Lisa Maree asked and you answered.


Since you said you had it at full capacity recently, I'm presuming you mean - you had 200+GB of data on it, and then you deleted a whole bunch, and now you're trying to put stuff on it again. Is it possible than when you deleted the files, the computer - and I can't explain why - never reallocated the space for writing? What if you run something like Eraser to clear the unused space?After this reply I will try the software that suggested to me Lisa_maree.
I'll try to make clear to all other reply's:
Before two week ago I could use the full capacity of mentioned Hard Drive, that means 232GB (I could write and delete everything that was less of this capacity). Now the problem is whatever I try to copy, that for example in my disk is writen somthing with 25.8GB and i try to write something (File/folder) more than 200MB that exceeds the full capacity of being writen more than 26GB, I can't write that.
My opinion is that probably ther is a bad sector or whatever.
Cheers.

EDIT:
I don't want to double post.
The Disk Tool that suggested Lisa_maree didn't recognize the external HDD so I'm trying my last option that I have in mind for the moment and that is to find if there are some bad sectors on it like following picture shows what I#m pretending to do:
With more or less the same problem but for my case it an iomega network hard drive that just disappeared from the network and cannot be accessed but the connectivity seems to be perfect and it has got alot of my staffs work. please help me solve this out.Quote from: KAJE on April 16, 2013, 04:38:23 AM

With more or less the same problem but for my case it an iomega network hard drive that just disappeared from the network and cannot be accessed but the connectivity seems to be perfect and it has got alot of my staffs work. please help me solve this out.

12% of HDD I still can use it, that means it could be worse.

I have a Compaq Presario CQ61-411wm with 64 bit Windows 7 installed. All the usb ports are recognized in the device manager, but if I plug anything into any of the ports, nothing happens, not even a light blinking. Here is a LIST of things I have already tried:

-Uninstalling all the drivers in the device manager
-Updating the drivers from device manager
-Unplugging ac adapter + battery and holding down the power button for 30-60 seconds
-Going into the BIOS and seeing if the USB ports are disabled ** (see note below)
-Using different mice, THUMB drives, external hard drives, etc.
-Asking the laptop nicely to make its USB ports work

If anyone has any idea how to fix this I would be soooooo GRATEFUL. I've been trying to fix this problem for over a month and I just could not find anything that would work. I am pretty tech-savvy so if any of your ideas have anything to do with opening up the laptop or soldering I am all ears. Everything else on the laptop is working fine.


** I have Insyde H20 version f.13 and there is no Advanced option so I don't know how I would be able to see if the USB ports are enabled or disabled. Any help on this would ALSO be greatly appreciated.


What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

Hello,

While changing the bootscreen the bios got updated, and after this while booting always the message "Press F4 to Resume Setup" message is prompted up. The screen displays my system configuration.My harddisk is in slave mode and CD-RW in master mode,and at the bottom displays Press F4 to resume setup and then XPP boots after pressing F4.The computer works well after pressing F4 with the following bugs in XP:
- It is not able to write cd. While using nero it always ASKS for enabling DMA,EVEN if I manually enable it
-Safe mode is not getting logged on.While logging in Safe mode computer again restarts.
I took out the CMOS battery and placed it back for resetting the bios but the thing persists.I also formatted the OS drive but after loading the XP the thing persists.

Do reply if you have any solution to it,I have googled it but none was precise.This forum seems very active.

Regards,
NeetronicUnplug the CDRom data cable and boot up the MACHINE...if it boots normally then the jumpers on both drives are set wrong.
The HDD should be master or "master w/slave present...and the CD should be slave.
If you have 2 IDE sockets on that MBoard then seperate the 2 drives otherwise cable them like so:


MB=============================Slave========Master.Ya the boot screen shows that the Hard disk is Slave and the CD-RW is Master.
Can you mention in a bit detail how to carry out the above configuration you mentioned(..i have not played with the inside cables,do mention in a bit detail).
thankyou for quick replyJumper settings on drives :



Keep in mind all manuf. are not the same so refer to the label on the drives.

The cable referred to in my last post is the IDE cable...flat grey ribbon cable connecting the drives to the MBoard. This is the cable that carries the data.

There will also be a 4 prong plug on each drive...this is the power connector.
The cables are keyed so they can only be plugged in 1 way but take your time and make sure how they are connected.Also, what do you mean "the bios got updated"?I never like the sound of that...Ya Patio ,I unplugged the datacable of the CD-RW but it didnt worked. Then I plugged in the datacable in place and then disabled the S.M.A.R.T option for the slave drive (that is the hard disk currently) ,this removed the Press F4 to resume setup error but the CD-ROM is still not getting rid of the bug.It is not reading blank disc and hence No Disc error persists while writing IMAGE file to CD-ROM,nero also detects DMA access is disabled( One thing can I alter Master to slave without going to jumper as the system was working well before loading the boot screen updation earlier with the same jumper setting as I have never altered the jumper setting).

Hi,

I'm taking a computer class and I need to know how to convert 2009 into both Binary and Hexidecimal....Quote

This is very simple.

The number 2009 is a decimal number. Now to convert this into binary, you have to divide this with 2 and then the quotients with 2 until you get a quotient of 0 OR 1. and to convert into hexadecimal, you have to divide this with 16 and then the quotients with 16 until you get a quotient of 0 OR 1.

Converting into binary
-------------------------------
Now, dividing 2009 with 2, you will get quotient of 1004 and reminder 1.
Now, divide 1004 with 2, you will get quotient of 502 and reminder 0.
Now, divide 502 with 2, you will get quotient of 251 and reminder 0.
Now, divide 251 with 2, you will get quotient of 125 and reminder 1.
Now, divide 125 with 2, you will get quotient of 62 and reminder 1.
Now, divide 62 with 2, you will get quotient of 31 and reminder 0.
Now, divide 31 with 2, you will get quotient of 15 and reminder 1.
Now, divide 15 with 2, you will get quotient of 7 and reminder 1.
Now, divide 7 with 2, you will get quotient of 3 and reminder 1.
Now, divide 3 with 2, you will get quotient of 1 and reminder 1.

Now, the quotient is 1 and here you can stop dividing quotients.

Now write down the last quotient and then all the reminders in reverse order which will become 11111011001

Converting into hexadecimal
--------------------------------------…
Now, dividing 2009 with 16, you will get quotient of 125 and reminder 9.
Now, divide 125 with 16, you will get quotient of 7 and reminder 13 (This will be represented as D).
Now, divide 7 with 16, you will get quotient of 0 and reminder 7.

Now, the quotient is 0 and here you can stop dividing quotients.

Now write down the last quotient and then all the reminders in reverse order which will become 07D9.

You can ignore the leading 0 and you can represent this as 7D9.

A little bit can you help me with one more? Convert 1971 into binary and hexidecimal

thanks i got 111011011 for the binary and 7B3 for the hexidecimal....

... extremely important that you understand
how to do something like this by hand.

ok here is my issue: i just BOUGHT a refurbished gateway DX4710 desktop, 6gb DDR2, 640gb SATA II hdd, quad core, windows VISTA 64 bit home premium sp1. so far its been a great computer. no problems. BUT it doesn't have any place inside where i can connect my old IDE drives. i have at least 2 IDE hdd's i want to install and would like to install an IDE DVD drive too. i took it to a computer shop and the guy there experimented with an IDE to SATA adapter, the kind that you plug into the back of the IDE drive and then attach the SATA cable from that to the computer. it didn't work. then he tried something, i'm not exactly sure what it's called, but he installed it inside the computer near the bottom on the back, the place where you have to remove a metal plate. it had 2 IDE ports on it. that didn't work either. so has anyone tried anything like this on the same or similar computer? for some reason i think one of these should work. if they don't not that big of a deal but would be really handy and save some desk space by not having to use externals. thank you.This should do it .... all you need is an open pci slot.



This 2 Port IDE (Ultra ATA/133) Controller Card can be installed in a PCI slot, to add more IDE storage capability to your PC. Providing two IDE drive ports with support for data transfer rates of up to 133 MBps, this adapter card can act as the primary boot device and replace built-in IDE ports, or provide 2 additional high-speed ports to the system. Designed to perform with high-speed IDE/133 drives, the adapter card also supports 100 MBps hard drives, 66 MBps hard drives, 33 MBps hard drives, CD-ROMS, CDRW drives, and other ATA peripherals. To ensure hassle-free installation, the IDE Controller Card includes Bus-Master drivers for DOS, Windows 98/ME/NT 4/2000/XP and Vista(tm).

http://www.buy.com/prod/startech-com-2-port-pci-ide-controller-adapter-card-2-x-40-pin-idc/q/loc/101/204395407.htmlOR, this:


http://www.cooldrives.com/serial-ata---ata-atapi-ide-interface-adapter.html


what ever floats your boat!


thanks guys. the IDE controller card was the second one he tried for me. it was the one i couldn't remember the name for and couldn't remember the name for the "pci card slot." guess i was having a brain fart . but unfortunately, neither would work. i'm not sure why and neither was he. especially for the IDE controller card. the IDE to SATA adapter i think didn't work because it wasn't "vista ready." but the controller card i'm pretty sure could be used with vista. so have any of you actually had to use one of these and got it to work? i hate to order one and find out it's still not going to work but i know that's just a chance i may have to take.Are you saying you tried an IDE controller card and it didn't work ? ?
Did you install the driver for it ? ?Quote from: patio on June 11, 2009, 06:01:25 AM

Are you saying you tried an IDE controller card and it didn't work ? ?
Did you install the driver for it ? ?

I was going to replace my old RAM cards in my pc each were 1 GB DDR2 so I unplugged the computer then took out both ram cards then put the newer ones in(DDR2 4 GB) then plugged it back in then turned it on then it started smoking so then i turned off the computer then took the ram cards out then turned it back on then it still smoked. I also NOTICED that after all this a black box near my ram card slots was leaking a black fluid of some sorts I have attached an image below.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Blown capacitors...
2 choices salvage your other components...

Or find a shop that does board - level repairs...Do you have any idea why the capacitors blew?Most likely they were part of the BAD capacitor plague. More info at this link: http://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=9

from this website that SERVICES and provides service kits for boards

http://www.badcaps.net/

It would probably be cheaper to find a good replacement board or similar processing power computer working as a whole than it would be to service this board. The power supply for this system you have may also have bad caps in it and caused an over voltage condition to the motherboard. I would inspect the power supply for swollen or leaking caps as well. If you will be opening the power supply first unplug the power cord from the back of the power supply. Then press the power button on the front of the computer and this will drain the power supply. Then wait about 60 seconds and go in and inspect the power supply and avoid bare skin contact with any circuitry just in case a capacitor didnt drain as for you could get shocked if a cap didnt drain. Most power supplies the power supplies can be opened and then inspected without getting your fingers in harms way. Be very careful if you open the supply and never open a power supply that is plugged into the wall !!!!

The new socket 775 motherboards are starting to disappear due to being obsolete, but some are still available in the RAM types of DDR, DDR2, and newer DDR3. Here is one that takes DDR2 which might work with your RAM if your RAM didnt get cooked when you had this failure. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157337&cm_re=socket_775_motherboard-_-13-157-337-_-Product

I wouldnt spend this kind of money for a new board for such an old system unless you have a really tight budget. And with a tight budget I'd suggest a Refurb system which comes with a warranty. For around $76 they have a Pentium 4 with Windows 7 and this Core 2 Duo for $110 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883281287

If buying a motherboard off of ebay etc, you can usually score a good used socket 775 motherboard for around $20-$40 depending on the board. The socket 775 boards that have Core 2 Quad support bring bigger price tags. Be sure to make sure the board will support your specific CPU before buying one as for some socket 775 motherboards max out on a Pentium 4 or Pentium D and cant support a Core 2 Duo. These boards generally sell cheap that dont support the Core 2 Duo or Core 2 Quads. Depending on the processing power needed you could get a working Pentium 4 or D motherboard with CPU and possibly RAM as well pretty cheap if your planning on running XP, Vista or Linux and no complex games but instead games of the era in which the board was made as a good match of processing power to software/games
Not sure why there seems to be agreement on it being a capacitor problem. To me the black goop appears to be coming from the component marked "65A3-7BJ72". As far as I can tell, 65A3 is a series of Power transistor (mosfet). The data sheet is available here.

I don't think transistors use any sort of liquid. Even if it was a capacitor leakage, the liquid would be a very runny brown or yellow "paste". No wet electrolyte is a thick black goop that I am aware of.

I suspect it to simply be epoxy sealer used to surface-mount the mosfet, It could be the case if the mosfet got hot, making the epoxy pliable and thus susceptible to gravity.

I expect the issue may have been caused by using RAM that required too low of a voltage.Quote

Not sure why there seems to be agreement on it being a capacitor problem.

I suppose the higher ESR could have overloaded the MOSFET? That could explain what would cause it to overheat and... release it's magic smoke

I have two problems and I don't know if they are connected:
--when first started, the computer is very noisy
--the computer shuts down without notice. To restart it I have to unplug and reconnect the power cable to the electrical outletWelcome to CH

You'll need to provide a lot more information. For example:

What sort of noise and where does it SEEM to be coming from? Does the noise PERSIST until the system shuts down or does it stop at some point?

Did this just start? If so, what is new or DIFFERENT SINCE the last time everything worked properly?

Does the system BOOT into Windows? If so, at what point does it shut down? Does it always shut down at the same time or point?

Anything else you can tell us that may be relevant.

Thank you

I have a sony VAIO vgn nr11z/s. The CD/dvd drive will not work, Properties in device manager says device working properly.No warnings. It will not spin when a cd or dvd put in and will not read it. It makes a noise like it is STARTING but doesn't

Tried safe mode but not difference. I also cleaned it

I want it to work to be able to boot a bootable cd in case of emergency.Sounds like you should replace the drive.Then why does it say this device is working properlyDevice Manager has no way of knowing if the drive is actually working, only that there are no driver / INTERFACE issues (the system recognizes its presence)Quote from: Allan on April 07, 2015, 01:15:16 PM

Device Manager has no way of knowing if the drive is actually working, only that there are no driver / interface issues (the system recognizes its presence)

The likelihood of laptop connections being the problem are slim, but here you go: http://www.insidemylaptop.com/how-to-remove-memory-hard-drive-optical-drive-and-keyboard-from-sony-vaio-vgn-fe-series-laptop/

Recently I removed my external hard drive from my computer to use it with my laptop. Since hooking it back up to my desk top it no longer shows up on the Task Bar and I don't know whether I should remove it from the UBS cable without being able to click on an Icon in the Task Bar letting me know it is OK to remove it without DIRE consequences. Does anyone out there have any idea how I can get the Icon back that shows removable hardware on the TaskBar? The external hard drive seems to be working just fine.Try this...

http://www.kellys-korner-xp.com/xp_tweaks.htm

Line 502bin3, Very strange! You can continue to use it but the option to safely remove it via the icon is not displayed.I would not remove it now until you can overcome that loss of "safely remove". That is the prevailing concensus of the research i had done some TIME back. Others have claimed they seldom if ever do it that way and don't have problems. However interupting a removable HDD when in operation by removing it can cause a loss of all data. A couple of things i would suggest. Try another device such as a USB flash drive or whatever and SEE if it brings up the icon option. The other is shut down your computer with the external still connected and running through the "start" shut down method. Then with the computer off--turn off the power supply on the REAR of the external via the toggle switch. Then turn on the computer. After the computer is fully functional then turn the external switch to on and see what happens. If that doesn't restore the icon please refer to this article it provides work around and reintroduction of the icon.let us know what occurs as you work through this. goodluck,truenorth
http://ask-leo.com/safely_remove_hardware_where_did_the_icon_go_how_do_i_safely_remove_hardware_without_it.htmlThank you both for your suggestions. I did try the Start & Run suggestion but it wouldn't bring up the needed window. Then I did what I probably should have done before bothering you folks and that was to restart my computer. Then voila! There it was......in the TaskBar! Again, my apologies and thanks for all of you who are so great about helping out.02bin3, Another success--wonderful.Yes very often simply shutting down and restarting can solve a problem.your welcome,truenorth

My computer is a 64 bit Windows 7 Pro and I really do not care for the new design keyboard that came with it. It is more like a laptop keyboard and I really prefer the action on my older Logitech Navigator keyboard. I also prefer my older Logitech mouse that I can program the wheel to a DELETE mode. Can I use these two on the system I have now or would there be a problem? They both have USB connections. ThanksYou can use them, but you'll have to install the 64 bit setpoint driver from Logitech to get all the functionality you want (they do use setpoint and not itouch, right?).I guess you have no problem with the older keyboard. Just get a USB to PS/2 adapter.Quote from: neelchauhan on December 18, 2009, 12:47:44 PM

I guess you have no problem with the older keyboard. Just get a USB to PS/2 adapter.

I replaced almost all the parts in my pc with BETTER stuff and still it RUNS terrible on low settings of league of legends.
My specs from Speccy:
Operating System
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
CPU
AMD FX-413022 °C
Zambezi 32nm Technology
RAM
8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 669MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. GA-78LMT-S2P (Socket M2)42 °C
Graphics
2343 ([emailprotected])
2048MB GeForce GT 620 (nVidia)46 °C
Hard Drives
596GB Western Digital WDC WD6400AAKS-65A7B2 ATA Device (SATA)33 °C
Optical Drives
hp DVD-RAM GH40L ATA Device
Audio
Realtek HIGH Definition Audio



So i replaced everything from a Duo-core 2.6 MHz and a video card GeForce 520 to the parts above and still i cant do anything that i was ABLE to before.
Im really only interested in playing league of legends but when i do i get INSANELY low Fps. On my old set up i was running League on middle graphics and was getting around 60 Fps with the only fps drops happening in big fights. Now with the new better set up im trying to run league on Very low settings and getting at most like 45 Fps but usually around 30-35. I have no idea what to really do and honestly ive just been very sad. Ive replaced a ton of stuff to try and figure out the problem and still nothing helps. I have a 600 Watt powersupply which i purchased today and it didnt help anything aswell. I hope someone can help me with this cause i cant stand for this much longer. Thanks

Have DDS dirve,SONY SDT9000. Has 50 pin CONNECTOR on drive but has a 50 to 68 pin convertor on cable ribbon. SINCE 50 pin(SCSI 2) only supports 10MB ps transfer rates,but the 60 pin can support between 20 to 80 MBPS, is it possible that I can get 80 out of it? Have not upgraded firmware yet. SCSI CARD supports Ultra160,have 50 and 68 pin bus connections.50 pin (narrow) SCSI should support up to 40 and 80 Mb Ultra SCSI on devices 0 through 7 on the cable. 68 pin Wide SCSI will support up to 160, 320, and 640 Mb Enhanced Ultra Wide SCSI rates depending on the host card and device. A 50 pin device on a 68 pin adapter is still a 50 pin device and will not use Wide SCSI.

Recommendation is to use 68 pin SCSI for fastest 68 pin drives and consider the 50 pin drive a secondary drive. The bus mastering and other enhancements to SCSI will still give you a noticeable improvement over ATAPI/IDE if you set this up right.

I have 1 hard drive in my Gateway computer. I want to add a 2nd hard drive. Does anyone know where the jumpers should go on the Master and the Slave?


ThanksI donot believe I can be of much help here, so far I have installed about three hard disks and that's been a while ago.

On each harddisk, there should be a sticker on TOP telling you how to set the jumpers in order to set them to Slave, Master or Automatic. (If there are no stickers on top of them, you might want to stop by at the manufacturer's website to check for manuals)

I donot quite recall what I have done, but I believe I set them both to Automatic and set everything straight in the BIOS. Telling what disk should be the master and what disk should be the slave.If you have a straight-through 40 pin or 80 pin cable, set the master drive to 'Master with Slave' or 'Single/Master' setting, and the slave drive to 'Slave'. This varies with the drive make.

If you have a Cable SELECT 40-pin cable (identified by 2 crossed over wires between the drive connectors) or 80 pin cable (usually done INTERNALLY in the connectors), place the jumpers on both drives to Cable Select, and mount the primary drive on the far end connector and the slave on the middle one.

If trying the Master/Slave jumper pair doesn't seem to work, try it with Cable Select. Many times the cables are POORLY marked as to what their configuration is.

Also, some drive makes have a history of not co-operating with other hard drive brands on the same cable. In this case, use the slave connection of your CDROM cable and secondary IDE channel and copy the partition over if necessary, so that your faster drive ends up as your primary master and the slower one RUNS as master or slave opposite the CDROM or CDRW.Barry....The original drive should be set as the MASTER ( there will be a tag on the drive indicating which pins to jumper.....The drive you are putting in should be set to SLAVE......I assume that the drives are being connected using the flat IDE cable......be sure that when you plug in the ide cable that you have the referance marker towards the 4 pin power socket.
Hope this helps you .

dl65

Hello Again,

RE:
Packard Bell Legend 836 CDT
16 MB
Running Windows 95

This is the garage-sale computer that y'all helped me get up and running so my little grandson could use the Reader Rabbit learning games.

The machine is working perfectly, but the speakers have messed up. When I first noticed the malfunction, the speakers were producing a low-volume, high-pitched constant squeal that could be heard even while the rabbit talked and sang. Next thing I noticed was all the sound was alternating between the two speakers. Sometimes left speaker had sound, and at other times right speaker had sound, and at other times both speakers were working SIMULTANEOUSLY. At this point, the volume of the speakers is so low that we can hardly hear anything at all. I have the volume turned all the way up.

I bought another set of speakers and put on the machine, but have the same result.....very low-volume, scratchy sound coming from the speakers... even with volume on high.

What do y'all think is wrong and how can I fix it?Hi Patsy.....By any chance have you updated any drivers recently.........( possibly from Microsoft Update ) The incorrect audio drivers could cause this .


dl65 These machines are known to have problems with embedded sound devices along with other hardware issues. If it persists, you may need to use a separate sound card and disable the MB embedded sound.No, DL, haven't done anything to the machine but what we did in beginning to get it running. It's not even HOOKED up to internet.

MalikTous, How do I hook up a new sound card? Can you plug it into the maching without opening it up?You'll have to open the case in ORDER to install the soundcard.

Usually, new soundcards come with instructions, if you got a second-hand soundcard lying around or are planning on getting on, you can always contact tech-support if any documentaries are missing.

Also, if you're going to install a new COMPONENT, be sure to unplug the PC from the power net and that your hands are demagnetized.

What did you do that made this PROBLEM occur?nothing that I am aware of. I turned it on and this happened. I have RESTARTED SEVERAL TIMES and the same THING happens.

i just got a new CASE and transfre my old mobo and stuff into it. BUt now the sound isnt working at all.
i put my speakers in nothing, i put my headphones in nothing.
its not muted and it worked before i put it in my new case. I use vinyl AC'97 audio (wave)

AMD Athlon(tm) XP 2600+&speed=512 ram=
=GeForce FX 5200/AGP/SSE/3DNOW!&directxversion=9.0
win xp home
PLZ help meI'm going to assume the card isn't seated properly or you have a MOBO issue. Check all your connections.well i just put it in its in case.
but the card is in the mobo.
what about the wires in the case that said MIC and stuff - i thought it was for the front of the case or something because thats were the wires are comeing from.Is it enabled in your BIOS? I also have a '97 Audio onboard soundcard.If this is a 4 or 6 speaker capable MB, you need to connect the jumpers or front panel speaker leads so the speaker output header they were connected to is set to feed through. Download the PDF manual for the MB from the MB manufacturer's website (or refer to your hardcopy one) for specifics.it is enabled on my bios
and it only has a channel of sound.
my mobo is a ecs L7vmm2.Did you install the Mainboard's drivers?i aready had them on here before i put it in my new case.
should i reinstall it?
well thanks guys for helping me out.
cuz now i have auido
it turns out that there was a wire PROBLEM in my case.
see when i put all my stuff in my new case i didnt wire the audio right. i was one wire short so i left it alone well after some testing i guess i got it in the right stop because now it works.
but thanks for trying to help me out.im not reg so i cant mod the MESG

i had a extra wire and i left it alone until i started to mess with it

and right spot not stop

my internet conncection is about 50k/sec,

here the most internet conncetion speed is 50k,

someone told me i can get a "receiver card", and a "DISH" (and lmd?) ,

that i send with my modem at 50k , but i recieve (download) at 500k per second,

anyone KNOW how this thing should work ?

or how can i match the 50k modem with the receiver card so that send/revieve thing work together?do yourself a FAVOR, do a google search on all these "THINGS" that are supposed to help and then google the products with a coma after its name and type review...read and draw a conclusion from that, then come back and ask us on specifics on a product *Also, some clarification on your situation would help. I gather you're on dialup and you do not have DSL or cable in your area. And, therefore, you're investigating "dish" as an option for faster Internet access. Is that correct?

I believe you should contact the vendor for "dish" television in your area and inquire about Internet access via that technology. I believe it will be EXPENSIVE, if available.

Hello everyone, its been a while since I've posted but I've got a really irritating problem right now. I have a Maxtor 6E040L0 Hard drive and its locked and I do not have a clue to get it unlocked. The problem is I can't UNLOCK it USING Command Prompt because there is no drive letter ASSIGNED to it and it doesn't even show up in my computer. Although I've DOWNLOADED many programs that see the drive but won't unlock it for me unless I pay. Does anyone know a way either a program or SOMETHING so I can unlock this hard drive??

-MikeHas it always been this way? Have you been using it? Is there anything on this drive? Have you tried the Maxtor site?No it hasn't always been this way, I was using and I believe I locked it, and I went on the Maxtor site but I wasn't really sure what I was looking for.

-MikeThe best thing to do is to contact the Maxtor customer support.

Hi there. My problem is two fold

[1]
See, today I just got my new processor (AMD Athlon 4400+ SOCKET 939). After taking out my old processor, inserting my new one, adding thermal glue and adding heatsink and fan.

I then switched on the computer, the fan seemed to be spinning around fine, despite this, I was getting no visual output from the monitor. I turned everything on and off a few times but I didnt get anything on the screen. I'm just wandering what this problem could be.

[2]
I attempted to take off the heatsink to make sure that I had put enough thermal paste onto the processor. But when attempting this, I put some force in to remove the clip (as instructed) and something from the clip snapped off.

Now no matter what I do I just cant get the heatsink to clip in, is there some way to fix this without buying an entire new heatsink, which I really dont want to do.

Help would be greatly appreciated.
Unfortunately it will need to be replaced...attempting to run it in this condition and you will be shopping for a new CPU/MBoard.oK i was advised on this myself not to long ago , you want to make sure your new amd chip has a nice smooth layer of the compound smear it over with a credit card ot a plastic card of some type then , insert it agan and try as for the fan , are you 100% sure its the right one for your new amd chip...Quote from: patio on July 07, 2007, 11:47:51 AM

Unfortunately it will need to be replaced...attempting to run it in this condition and you will be shopping for a new CPU/MBoard.

OK GUYS.

I just took out the heatsink, and on further inspection, its not the heatsink that is brocken, but my motherboard. You see, in the socket area of my motherboard, your meant to put the heatsink clip over a little ridge to secure it in place. But earlier the ridge broke off, but its fine on the other side.

So what can I do about this? getting a new motherboard is out of the question, and it seems over-the-top just to get a new one because a small peice of plastic broke off. (perhaps I could glue if back on if I found it? :s its very minute

Ok, so here is the DILEMA. I have my computer, a dell dimension B110, and every once in a while, the computer will make this really nasty whirring NOISE, almost like something is overworking. it kinda sounds like a hard drive that maybe might be writing wrong or something, but i know that when i shut it down and sometimes when i GO to boot it up, it will start up again with the whirring noise.

I am not sure if it is a fan that might need to be replaced, or even a hard drive. I leave my computer on a lot, but the most it does in idle is download a few files here and there.

Please someone help me to understand what the heck is gonig on. Again, the whirring noise happens when the computer is running normally for no reason sometimes, and also happens after i shut it down, when it is booting up, before the windows xp screen, first thing, it will start up again, takes a few times of shutting it down and restarting it before it will stop making the noise.Hi djkorn,

I have had the same problem you had. I think that the cause of your whirring sound might be the fan that's acting weird. It also could be the harddrive, but I would take a look at the CPU fan first.

You could try this:

1) Open up your sidepanel.
2) Look at the fan that's in the MIDDLE of your PC.
3) Don't touch anything that could damage your PC severely.
4) Take a screwdriver, and open up the fan. (Be careful you don't hit or touch anything with your bare hands. Always use a soft small blanket.)
5) If there is dust caked on your CPU, then take a vacuum cleaner and suck everything up. There should NOT be any dust on your CPU.

If the whirring after this still occurs then it's most likely your harddrive.

for what it is worth?my win2000 always makes a fast running sound ,after sleep mode,and some other times.thought i read this was normal. GOOD luck anyway lostitQuote from: lostit on July 07, 2007, 08:08:03 AM

for what it is worth?my win2000 always makes a fast running sound ,after sleep mode,and some other times.thought i read this was normal. good luck anyway lostit

Hello there.

I just got my new processor in the mail, an AMD Athlon 4400+ SOCKET 939. The problem is, I didn't GET the normal retail packaging, so all I received was the processor chip itself, no heatsink or fan :@

I wandered if I would be able use the heatsink and fan from my old processor, as they both use the same socket type (939). My old processor is an AMD Athlon 3700+.

Also, does this require me too add/remove any thermal paste? I seem to forget, does the thermal paste sit between the chip and the heatsink or between heatsink and the fan?

And finally, will it require me to install anything, (reinstalling windows? ) or any drivers? Because at the moment I have and AMD Athlon driver installed for my processor...
Well,

I don't have any experience with INSTALLING a new processor. I think you should look on the Internet for an installation guide.I will assume your "RIGHT' on the old one is used on the same socket etc... YES you can use the old one. Clean off the bottom flat area where the old strips or paste was on. Use alcohol very CAREFULLY and remove the old goooo.... use artic 5 or a good paste an apply a 1/2 green pea size amount directly in the center of the cpu. You should be good o go. Clean and dust off your old fan very good first! Good Luck*


no additional installation is required, clean it up real good, apply the goo, install carefully ALSO, make sure you completely unplug all power to your computer and ground yourself before poking inside there* Ok will do. Now I just have get some thermal paste, I hear artic silver is good? So just a small blob of paste on the center, not cover the whole thing?I use artic 5 (its real gooey LOOKING silver stuff) works very well....

keep away from strips if possible, no don't even try to spread it around, heat and hours of use will do that!

Hi I'm running windows Me and a FRIEND give us their HP deskjet 890c printer but their cd won't install the drivers to my windows me computer.
I have search for the drivers from Hp. But Hp no longer support windows me or windows 98. So how can I find drivers to install this printer.A GOOGLE search for "HP Win98 driver" perhaps?

http://www.download.com/HP-DeskJet-890-Series-Printer-Driver-Windows-98-/3000-2116_4-1631277.html