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I own a Lenovo W540 with Windows 10 on it and the default touchpad is absolutley terrible. I saw that it was possible to install a new touchpad from the W541 onto the W540. The new ones are much better, so I proceded to do that. This one to be exact. http://www.ebay.com/itm/272000239170?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

So i succesfully installed the new touchpad on my W540 within 5 minutes, and everything was working fine it seemed. I then tried to go into the mouse settings in control panel to adjust things, and there was no thinkpad tab for changing advanced mouse settings. I then uninstalled the ultranav drivers and reinstalled the newest ones, they installed without error. That didnt work. I tried near everything in the book to FIX it. After HOURS of work and countless restarts I decided to do a new fresh install of Windows 10 and install the drivers. Surely that would work. Nope. Still no thinkpad tab in the mouse settings. Still no way to customise my new touchpad. Iv'e also tried putting this touchpad on a Windows 7 W540, and it doesnt work their either. So its not a Windows issue and is definetly some sort of issue with the touchpad.

Anyone know what is causing this massive headache? I just want gestures and 2 finger scrolling and such. I am a technically competent user and can not figure this out.
Any help is super appreciated.

ThanksSince this is the touchpad from a newer model and not a W540 you should try installing the drivers for a machine that shipped with that touchpad such as the W541, W550s, T450s.etc.

I actually did this modification to my T440s a while back and had to use the n10gx25w to get it to work properly under Windows. .exe]http://driverdl.lenovo.com.cn/think/download/driver/7448/UltraNav[n10gx25w].exe. That SAID, I run Linux on my T440s so I've only very briefly tried the touchpad with Windows (8.1 Pro) so things may have changed.

It's also worth noting that there are two different manufacturers of those Touchpads - ALPS and Synaptics. Mine is a Synaptics unit, hence using the Synaptics drivers however people with the ALPS version suggest that this driver works: http://support.lenovo.com/us/en/downloads/ds101970

You may find that the installers will refuse to run due to the machine model not matching but you should be able to force it to install by doing "Update Drivers" in Device Manager.

I wrote a blog post about this modification when I did it and there is a bunch of comments mentioning different drivers so it may be worth digging though them and seeing what you can get working: http://camerongray.me/2015/02/fitting-physical-trackpoint-buttons-to-a-lenovo-thinkpad-t440s/Here I'll go into more specifics of what I have tried. So I've tried the newist generic synaptic driver. Ive tried many different versions of lenovo's drivers. Like a lot and multiple TIMES for each.. Anyways the best current guess for what the problem might be I think is that the driver software might for some reason CHECK to see if the machine I have is supposed to have the touchpad I have. From device manager I found that the hardware id of the tochpad is *LEN0034 which after a google search I found that this device is assosiated with the T540p. And I have a W540. Although it fits in fine and plugs in fine and should work fully fine and I see no reason why it shouldnt. Anyways I downloaded the newest touchpad drivers for the T540p, but as I suspected they are the exact same drivers offered for the W540 and W541.

One thing I tried doing was changing the hardware id of my W540 to match the id of a W541, but that resulted in 0 change.

Every once in a while when i try to open mouse settings it will pop up with an error message saying the synaptics driver is not installed or that a synaptics device is not detected. In device manager the device is listed as Synaptics Pointing Device though, as it should be. The only thing that doesnt work with my touchpad is opening the advanced settings. Also Ive tried just navigating to and running the executable that in the Synaptics Program Files folder. But it just does nothing.

I was thinking maybe if there was some way to change the hardware id of the new touchpad to match that of one for the W541. But it seems dumb that those need to match so I'm not too optimistic about it.BumpNice bump...
Did you try Camerons suggestions above yet ? ?

Noticed after replacing 2032 battery on a board and reconfiguring the bios settings that the SATA controller was set to IDE. When looking at the choices its AHCI or IDE with IDE being the default config. I left it at IDE but was wondering that other than what I see here about the 2 http://www.diffen.com/difference/AHCI_vs_IDE are there any pros or cons to leaving it alone at IDE. The hard drive is an older laptop hard drive that is 1.5 SATA and not 3.0 speed and only 5400rpm. I cant imagine there being that much of a performance gain in switching to AHCI. The motherboard runs an Intel Atom D510. I pretty much repurposed a laptop hard drive for this ITX build and knowing that the Intel Atom was going to be not the best of performance anyways that a slow older hard drive paired with it would probably be just fine.

Performance wise, the build is reliable and works well for what it does. Just figured I'd check here to see if its worth it at all to switch to AHCI vs leaving it at IDE default for the SATA controller setting. To me it seems that maybe if I had an SSD that this AHCI would be beneficial, but still the Atom CPU is a bottleneck in the performance of a SSD as well so idk. There is a small hard drive performance hit when you use IDE mode due to Native Command Queuing being disabled. I think it is desirable to have NCQ on server type scenarios and with an SSD. I would leave it alone. I doubt you would notice any difference with that hardware.

Thanks for the info.I'll echo Salmon here, with HDDs there's USUALLY very little to be gained from AHCI mode over IDE - the exception being features such as hot plugging which IDE mode doesn't support. It's straightforward enough to change to AHCI mode without reinstalling if you want to - https://www.neowin.net/forum/topic/987378-how-to-switch-from-ide-to-ahci-without-repairingreinstalling-windows/ - but I'm not sure I'd MAKE the effort if it was my PC. IDE used to be the default mode for COMPATIBILITY with ancient OSes, thankfully that's changed in recent years.Thanks for additional info... yeah i didnt want to switch to try it out and bork the data, so i left it alone at default.Quote from: DaveLembke on November 09, 2015, 12:34:44 PM

Thanks for additional info... yeah i didnt want to switch to try it out and bork the data, so i left it alone at default.

Boot issues

Some operating systems, notably Windows Vista, Windows 7 and Windows 8, do not configure themselves to load the AHCI driver upon boot if the SATA-drive controller was not in AHCI mode at the time of installation.

My computer's motherboard broke about a week ago. However what caused it to break is confusing me. About half a year ago I had overclocked it 15% so I was assuming that I had just fried the circuitry. However, when I took it to PC world another suggestion was RAISED: the PSU can act like a cancer to the motherboard and slowly kill it over time if it is faulty. Is the theory of a PSU slowly destroying a motherboard true?

Do I need to buy a new PSU? If so, if I get my replacement motherboard first, use it for a few days with my old PSU then switch it out for a new PSU, will there be any lasting, fatal damage? Are there any other FACTS I need to know or would be helpful in my quest for understanding computer hardware?A bad PSU can do almost anything. It has the POTENTIAL of putting hundreds of watts into the wrong place. Like 12 volts into the 5 fold line. It can literally melt wire.

A practice some techs have is to use a 'sacrificial lamb" motherboard. It is a motherboard worth LESS that a PSU. you HOOK it to a suspect PSU and see if it works and the voltages are normal. Quote

A practice some techs have is to use a 'sacrificial lamb" motherboard. It is a motherboard worth less that a PSU. you hook it to a suspect PSU and see if it works and the voltages are normal.

Thank you to all the volunteers, whether you're able to offer help or not!

FULL disclosure: I was running AVG PC tuneup (http://www.avg.com/us-en/avg-pctuneup) last night when I went to bed.

When I awoke this morning my PC was dead. When I turn on the power I get no beeps. No signal is sent to the monitor. The monitor is working. Everything is plugged in properly. I unplugged all external devices, same RESULT. I removed all RAM. Still no beeps. I put the RAM back in, nothing.

All fans are running, optical drive still opens and the lights on the RAM still blink - so I assume the power supply is good. Is that a fair assumption?

The computer is about five years old. It's an Acer Aspire X1470. The MB inside is a DAA75L - aParker 48.3FU01.011.

I can find the same MB on Amazon, but would have to wait for arrival. Ideally I'd LIKE to purchase locally from http://www.ncix.com/category/motherboards-64-107.htm , but I am unfamiliar with what specs to look at to be sure I get the same size, etc. MB. I rarely use the PC these days so a cheap MB is all I need. I only use the PC for word processing and internet - no gaming/video/etc.

If I'm missing a potential solution/fix, please share! Otherwise a MB recommendation would be awesome.

Thank you again!I'd start with a power supply swap. The symptoms are very common with a power supply that has failed and is giving out low voltages so the SYSTEM cant truly start 100%.Thank you! I will try that first!

I am currently looking to purchase a NEW graphics card that is capable of running the new game Call Of Duty Black Ops 3 at a good level.

Current specs:

Video card: AMD Radeon HD 7700 series
Core: Intel Core i5-2320 CPU @ 2.93 GHz (4 CPUs)
Memory: 8.2GB RAM
Operating system: Windows 8 64-bit (6.2, build 9200)

I am not to familiar with buying COMPUTER parts and was wondering if anyone could suggest a good graphics card (capable of running games like COD black ops 3 and Battlefeild 4) that is overly expensive.

Thank you.Is this a custom gaming system?
You might consider a
GeForce GTX 470
Kind of pricey, IMHO
GTX 470 om AmazonYou can safely ignore the above, the 470 is a 5 year old cardWhat is your budget? We need to know how much money you have to throw at PERFORMANCE to give you the best suggestion for what you are willing to pay.

Also what is your power SUPPLY wattage rating and which brand or make/model power supply?Budget would be anything below $300

My power supply is 600W thermaltake litepower ATX 12V 2.3

Gateway DX 4870-UR368
Intel i7
16 GB Ram
Windows 10....then 8


My nightmare started Friday as I was installing a (legit) audio production application from the discs that came in the package. Upon inserting the first disc, the disc appeared to be blank, but it actually wasn't. Upon ejecting the disc, I checked the label on the DVD drive and it said it was still reading the disc....eventhough I had ejected it.

So I tried to shut down, and my PC wouldn't even do so. So I had to turn it off via power button. Upon turning the PC back on, I got file system errors and had to restore the PC back to factory settings, which was Windows 8. Everything appeared to be FINE (besides to having a fresh new bare bones DOWNGRADE from Windows 10 to Windows until the next morning. I pressed the power button to turn on my computer, but it took five minutes before it actually powered up. Meaning: When I pressed the power button, everything actually powered up five minutes later.

Despite this happening (I power cycled a few times to test it), I chalked this up to the underpowered power supply acting up. (This PC only shipped with a 300w power supply, and I planned to replace it this month with a 500 or 700w before this happened).

I STUPIDLY decided to try to upgrade to Windows 8.1, but that failed for some reason. So, regular Windows 8 was restored and I tried to log in but I couldn't. I entered my password but the circle dots thingy just kept spinning for 30 minutes until I turned it off via power button.

When I tried to turn it back on, it wouldn't boot up at all. I waited 15 minutes or so. But it wouldn't turn off by pressing the power button so I had to unplug it. I pressed the power button once more to turn it back on. However, this time the Power LED wouldn't even come on. I can hear the fans going and everything. Hard drives (plural) spinning up and everything. But nothing happens.

I tried a different power supply from a working computer (which is what I'm posting from) and got the same result. I checked the motherboard for a light, however this mobo has no light bulb on it. There's not even a space for it.

The ONLY issue I've had with the computer was a very rare one. Once every 8-10 months, it would turn off at a random time. I've had this computer since November 2012 so it's only happened a handful of times. This was most definitely the power supply being underpowered.

This has totally taken me by surprise as the Gateway computer has shown no signs of any issues before this, besides the power supply being underpowered and turned off on extremely rare occasions.

Do you think the mobo has DIED somehow?

I'm up for trying to save this computer because it did it's job very well. I loved it and it could load a lot intensive audio production programs and plugins and it'd only take up about 30% of the CPU usage meter. Borrow a known good PSU of greater wattage and swap it in there...you'll know overnight.

I was trying to install my comp on a normal sony amplifier I use for my turntable and many more devices in my household.
But i had issues making the left speaker work correctly and by playing with the wires with all the copper end twisting and buzzing sounds it made the speaker only decreased in sound and eventualy became completely mute.

It's been a few days now, and it has not improved. To have an equal sound on both speakers i have to put the right speaker to 0 and the left one to 100 and crank up the soundblaster volume wheel all the way up to hear a faint sounding music.
I'm also not understanding why the right speaker is able to make a sound with the windows 7 balance volume set to zero.

I reinstalled windows 7 a few time, no change, windows 10 also, nothing

Do you think there is a probability the volume will get back gradually over time or it a point of no return.
It does the same with headphones so the speakers is not the issue.

Any help fixing the mobo soundcard?
If I could duplicate the right speaker on the left channel it would logicaly work. But how.If you had a mono audio jack extension you could patch over the audio from L or R side to the other. Have you tested first to verify that the port/sound card is the true issue and not your set of speakers?

Use of a headset MIGHT help in determining if its the speakers or the port/soundcard.

I'd just get a cheap USB Audio Adapter and get stereo sound back for around $15 or less.

You could use a mono jack extension male to female and this will cross the L and R speakers to have sound in both. HOWEVER.... if there is audio that is speaker specific such as watching a movie that has a directional sound that is normally heard on the speaker side that is non functional then you will have silence or lacking audio quality for it.

I'd just go and get a USB Audio Adapter for $15 or less and get sound back cheaply.Or a decent PCI-e soundcard for not much more...Yeah i have bought a 1.50$ usb stereo dongle and im sure it will work, and im 100% sure i fried the motherboard left channel and any pci card will work but what i would like to do is actually repair the mobo soundcard for resale or personnal accomplissement sake.
I dont know if going back to playing with copper wires could give it a kick in the *censored* and revive it. The worst thay could happen would be losing the right speaker. But while playing with the wires ground and sound it showed no sign of wanting to give up like the left channel. Im guessing that its a conderser that gave up and i have never dealt with an issue with these, the only thing i repaired with soldering to date is headphones and its far to the precision required to start playing with a motherboard.Yer not gonna repair a sound chip at board level without some excellent soldering skills...and the overwhelming odds of finding the correct chip...

Cut your losses.I don't see it mentioned anywhere that you tried a second set of speakers. Was that done to verify it was not the speakers with the problem?For General Reference:
Grounding (bonding) of all units.
Both home computers and home stereo can be damaged by wiring mishaps. The output of a PC sound card is at a low level. Nevertheless, both the PC and the Stereo can be damaged by careless use of audio connectors.

I used to do professional level audio work. Whenever you have disparate (read portable) equipment being hooked together, you must have a grounding strap to all equipment before you do anything. Just because you got away with it before does not prove the equipment has auto protection for ground currents.

In professional work things are put in large racks that tie all snuff together and disperses the ground currents. In amateur work only a few audiophiles understand there has to be a ground bar installed first.

Translation. run a small wire to the frame of each piece of equipment before you turn the power on.

Ground loops are a source of niche in audio systems. But they can do damage in extreme cases.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_%28electricity%29
Quote

Ground loops are a major cause of noise, hum, and interference in audio, video, and computer systems. They do not in themselves create an electric shock hazard, the inappropriate connections that cause a ground often result in poor electrical bonding, which is explicitly required by safety regulations in certain circumstances. In any case the voltage difference between the ground terminals of each item of equipment is small. A severe risk of electric shock occurs when equipment grounds are improperly removed in an attempt to cure the problems THOUGHT to be caused by ground loops.

Almost all sd cards i bought on ebay are working with only a fraction of the space it is supposed to be on it.
I tried many formatting tools but nothing changes.
Is there a tool that can boot in dos and detect the micro sd inserted in a usb drive, and scan and fix these broken sectors or at least separate the working space from the unworking ONE and simply destroy it so that only what is working is seen on it. Example 128gb becomes 22gb because from what it have noticed is that data past that size disapears once the transfer is completed.
Is it partitioned as FAT32 or NTFS?I have tried bothIs there a make/model for these micro SD's or are they generic no-name devices?

Have you made contact with the seller of these devices for a refund or was it for sale as-is no returns? I'd return them if they are defective for a refund.It is not the case that these devices have broken areas, they are fake cards that have never had 128gb of storage, they are just made to look as though they do.

It is possible to set the real capacity on these cards as seen here: http://www.gadgetvictims.com/2012/07/quickn-dirty-way-to-fix-fake-sd-card.html so it will at least work at it's actual capacity (PROBABLY 8-16gb) however I wouldn't trust the card with any important data, it's a cheap generic card of unknown quality so could fail at any moment.

As Dave says, contact the seller and demand a refund, if they refuse, put a claim in through eBay/Paypal - The seller is selling fake cards and chances are they know it.

When buying SD cards, remember, if it sounds too GOOD to be true, it probably is! If you are paying a fraction of the price of a genuine branded card, especially at ridiculous high capacities, it's probably a fake one.Short answer: No such tool.
This is the common experience of those who buy cheap STUFF. Myself included. There does not seem to be any law about selling junk. If the manufacture can make a PRODUCT that might last a few months, he can sell it "as is" or a 30 day warranty.
Quote

Manufacturing Defects
There's a lot of pressure to produce small, cheap, high-capacity devices. To do this, manufacturers do not worry about perfection, and ship devices with something like 2-5% of the memory already bad. t These initial bad blocks are masked out and shouldn't affect anything, but actually do long term.
A particular card will have a lot more than it's supposed to, including blocks which weren't properly masked out. This is likely with cheap cards.

I'm having a *censored* of a time trying to use my E7 as a modem. I'm sure the answer is complicated. Who can I call, or what site might help me?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]The E7 is a Nokia phone.
I moved this here so it recieves proper attention...

Please don't Post in the FAQ section...Thanx.Have you contacted your provider to see if they have any assistance for this. Im sure they would FIND it beneficial to help you since they would make money on your usage if you PAY a fee for additional data transfer.I wouldn't wanna see that Monthly statement...I have a job where I visit people in their homes, and I have to have internet access. I bought the &*([emailprotected] phone for this purpose, to use as a modem (only in that setting). I have spent hours trying to make this work and I frustrated!!!!Very sorry about your frustration...however the Nokia Forums would be your best from here on out...This took 2 seconds to find...Nice job, Patio.
The link says the user needs to use:
Nokia Ovi Suite. Which is a program for the PC.
Everything you need to sync your Nokia phone with a PC
Free download from Softronic.Every time I go thru the steps to enable me to set up my E7 smartphone as a modem connected by usb, I get the attached notice. Is this a scam? Do I need to pay for this to update my drivers?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Are Nokia Suite and Nokia Ovi Suite the same thing? My webroot program told me it was a malicious download and not to proceed.Scam! The download sites are deliberately trying to confuse people.

This link is from Microsoft for Nokia Suite .

http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/mobile/support/product/nokia-suite/

Quote

Nokia Suite is meant for most Symbian and S40 phones.

Use Nokia Suite to move your photos, videos, music, and more between your phone and computer, and to get the latest phone software. Download apps, music, or free street maps, and back up important content.
Use Nokia Suite to copy your contacts, calendar, and photos from your Symbian or S40 phone to your Nokia Lumia. Simply copy your content to the Microsoft SkyDrive ONLINE service using Nokia Suite, and sign in to your Microsoft account with your Nokia Lumia.

Recently, I was given a laptop from my older brother. It had a few games on it as he used it often but now doesn't. I have connected a mouse of my own to the computer and it can function -almost-, you SEE, my mouse can't left click for some unknown reason. I can sometimes click with the left but never very often.
Please help
(if it helps the computer is a relatively old 2011 dell laptop that had windows 7 and was upgraded to windows 8 pro)
THANK you Try a new CORDED USB mouse. They are cheap at most stores.

If problem remains we can dig further INFO OS corruption.

My dell 3521 is restarting in booting SCREEN from last 2days. I checked preboot SYSTEM assessment but found no errors. It SHOWS everything is working fine. Also removed the battery and pressed power button for a while but the problem remain as it is. Please help me what to do?

Dell 3521
Core i3
500gb / 4gb
Win 7 32 bit
Recently no installation in last 2-3 months..
Was working fine TILL the day before yesterday.

Hello Everyone!

So my question is should i buy a whole new gaming dekstop (Price range 500-600$) or upgrade my existing one?

My CURRENT specs are

i3-2130
Gtx-Nivida 570
Windows 8
1tb
64 bit
---

So i was warned about upgrading my setup,because i would have to upgrade my Motherboard soon after if i bought a new Cpu and Graphics card, on top of that i would have to buy a better Fan to keep all this cool for extended Gaming.

Would it be better for me to buy a entire new computer or upgrade hardware? Im very inexperienced with how the replacing things go, as in better stuff requires more fans etc, how would i put in fans in the case if theres no room etc?

Thanks for reading if you have any helpful tips please feel free to comment!!!! What exactly are you starting with here i.e. Is it a branded PC or a self built? Why are you attempting an upgrade? It might help people gage what you will need if you provide some idea of what you would like your computer to do which it doesn't do now or you would like it to do better.


Without knowing which motherboard that you're using it's hard to recommend much. An Intel i7-4790S might be a viable upgrade rout for you.

Do you know how much RAM your system has? Hey Acc, i have 8gigs of ram, i want to upgrade for better gaming, all these new games are coming out and i find myself not being able to run them, even on lowest. This is a dell, but the graphics card was put in by Bestbuy

Im just worried if i order parts like that i will need new motherboard, and coolingWhat model Dell so we can look up the main board to see what the board supports according to Dell?

( * You might find that you need to flash the main board to support a newer i5 or i7. This comes with some risk of if power was disrupted during the flash PROCESS if necessary you can kill your main board. )Quote from: Accessless on November 05, 2015, 05:46:56 AM

What exactly are you starting with here i.e. Is it a branded PC or a self built? Why are you attempting an upgrade? It might help people gage what you will need if you provide some idea of what you would like your computer to do which it doesn't do now or you would like it to do better.


Without knowing which motherboard that you're using it's hard to recommend much. An Intel i7-4790S might be a viable upgrade rout for you.

Do you know how much RAM your system has?

What model Dell so we can look up the main board to see what the board supports according to Dell?

( * You might find that you need to flash the main board to support a newer i5 or i7. This comes with some risk of if power was disrupted during the flash process if necessary you can kill your main board. )

I forgot to say Don't buy the CPU that I recommended yet. At the moment it is literally an educated guess as to what might be compatible. We need either the computer model or motherboard model to know.

Hey Acc, i have 8gigs of ram, i want to upgrade for better gaming, all these new games are coming out and i find myself not being able to run them, even on lowest.

To be clear, it is not compatible, totally different socket.

Games like, overwatch, Cod, etc

On my computer right now,

Processor is i3-2130 3.40Ghz

System model: Inspiron 660

bios: A05

Dell inc

Tried to start up with the following message coming up. Nothing seems to help.

We apologize for the inconvenience, but Windows did not start successfully. A recent HARDWARE or software change may have caused this.
If your computer stopped responding, restarted unexpectedly, or was automatically shut down to PROTECT your files and folders, CHOOSE Last Known Good Configuration to revert to the most recent settings that worked.
If a previous start-up attempt was interrupted due to a power failure or because the Power or Reset button was pressed, or if you aren’t sure what caused the problem, choose Start Windows Normally.

Safe Mode
Safe Mode with Networking
Safe Mode with Command Prompt

Last Known Good Configurations (your most recent configuration which worked)

Start Windows Normally.
Use Up and Down Arrow Keys to move the Highlight to your choice.

Tried all modes but nothing. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Do you have the recovery media for the laptop? I'd perform a recovery installation.. just be careful when selecting the recovery installation type as for one option will wipe out all your data and set it back to factory install. *Note: If the hard drive is ill you could END up with a system that doesnt even boot up as far as it does now when it goes to write the installation data and hits the bad part of the hard drive that is unable to recover from damage beyond that of which the manufacturer allocated extra space to correct for bad sectors etc.

What is your level of computer repair experience... such as would you feel comfortable using a Linux bootable disk to gain access to your personal data to then back it up to a USB drive and opening up the laptop if needed to replace the hard drive or would you need someone else to do this in which a repair shop might make more SENSE?

Additionally what is the exact model of Toshiba so we can see what your up against?Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have still retained the Product Recovery disc together with the Microsoft Works 8 disc which came with the Toshiba Satellite Laptop so many years ago. I thought I had little to lose. So went ahead...OK!. Some of the programmes are not compatible, but all my main stuff on an external hard drive worked once the Works disc was fired up. Still none the wiser what caused it. Thanks again for your help. Pete.

I have an intel b940 processor i need new bios for the current bios dont support what i need to do with them...they are EXTREMELY basic bios!! I need over clock setting so i can adjust the memory timings and voltages....heres a hint...intel doesnt say jack about bios updates for this processor...HELP PLEASE!!

IsraelBIOS updates are for SPECIFIC reasons ...if your MBoard manuf does not list one i'm afraid your outta luck.
Flashing with the wrong BIOS can create an expensive paperweight/boat anchor.well i have no option but to get new bios unfortunatly...im calling intel ASAP this morning and talking to them about solutions....its not that they dont support new bios im sure because LIKE litterally ALL other PROCESSORS are listed on thier site besides mine...i dunno...the memory is over heating...honestly...they are getting sued for building a computer that fails if the memory is EVER removed if they fail to tell me what i want to hear when i call them...that basic lemon law...Best of Luck with your lawsuit...First of all, that is a low end laptop processor, not designed for overclocking hence the lack of settings.

Second of all, how do you KNOW the memory is overheating? Memory almost never overheats.

Mucking around with the memory timings to make it run cooler is only GOING to lead to instability.

Have fun suing them. What do you mean about it failing if you remove the memory? You removed the memory and now it doesn't work? That sounds like you broke something.

I don't know why but, it done this before when I had my older hardware installed. BASICALLY, I am USEING it and the screen will just drop and COME back on.

Every time I turn my laptop on, the screen is black, static/ocean wave sound comes out of audio, then it shuts itself off. Its an Acer Gateway laptop and i just recently had to get all the hardware replaced due to me accidentally dropping it. Is there a way for me to fix this problem and without having to pay to get it REPAIRED once more? Are you sure its the speakers making this noise and not a fan that is grinding inside or HARD drive? Such as if you connect the audio jack on the laptop to a heatset do you HEAR this direct to your ears?

The sound your referring to out from a sound card at boot without the system booting would be the most worst case scenario for hoping to get the computer back up and running, but your data could still be recovered possibly by removing the hard drive and placing it into a empty external hard drive case.

If the sound is found to not be the audio out but instead a mechanical noise from within the laptop then your looking at a Fan that is grinding and not spinning up to speed that then the laptop shuts itself off likely because it senses an issue with the fan speed so its protecting itself from a bad thermal condition with inadequate airflow from a troubled fan. This generally means replacing the DAMAGED fan. This you could do yourself if you feel confident with opening the laptop being careful and swapping it out.

If its the hard drive of the computer which it probably isnt... then your data is likely gone. However reason why i feel its not the hard drive is because if the hard drive failed, the computer should boot and just remain making the horrible sound and just complain about no operating system found or hard drive failure or some other indication that the hard drive is ill.I would immediately contact the shop Owner as you didn't get what you paid for them to do.

Does anyone know what Windows 8 would be basing an error message about an "Unauthorized laptop battery" on?

I've not seen the laptop myself yet but apparently it is generating error messages about the battery. I know that it is the original battery and that it has never been removed. The laptop is about a year old. I'm worried that this could be signs of battery failure if this is based off voltage or amperage output.Until you see the unit it's all speculation...
My guess is the original battery failed...and they bought a cheapo generic replacement...
Let us know.The cheap batteries usually do not affect the computer badly in anyway, and when getting a replacement one or one to switch out to (if you like carrying extra batteries on you) they (assuming you get them from a good source) will LAST the computer the same length of WORK-life at half or such the cost. Laptop batteries are not just larger cells, placed in sequence. They are usually provided with some sort of small board that regulates the charging rates and distribution of power on a basic scale. The computer can read the little pcb board in the package and ell maybe using a simple resistor current testing or some small handshake. However, not to worry, this should probably not affect your choice of laptop because the WARNING can be turned off and the battery can be replaced with a real one for maybe $30-40 which is effectively a small cost to pay to replace anything on a laptop. Windows will get a battery is ALMOST dead message showing up if they sense the battery life is failing, even with most cheapo brands. Anyhow, I've always found that buying a cheapo whenever needed always worked me out the same as buying the "real one". Cheapo brands can COME with the lying about capacity disadvantage but you can usually resolve this by buying a higher capacity cheapo pack or testing it yourself with discharging rates in the computer. The Chinese knock-off will also be relatively easy to tell when removed from the back, usually by particularly shoddy labeling looking nothing like the real one (look online for specific pictures).Can't believe i read this endosement of cheapo's...Switching out a cheapo with the real thing will only cost a minimum extra. They really have the same cells in them though...depends on the age of the cells but to be honest, when getting a new computer, either option is fine. As a master of getting things to work out, for all general purposes, it won't kill anybody to stick with a cheapo pack for a bit. That's the reality of it. When it says battery is dying then is the only time to worry a bit. Not to nit pick but:

Quote from: Accessless on October 29, 2015, 03:49:36 PM

Does anyone know what Windows 8 would be basing an error message about an "Unauthorized laptop battery" on?

I've not seen the laptop myself yet but apparently it is generating error messages about the battery. I know that it is the original battery and that it has never been removed The laptop is about a year old. I'm worried that this could be signs of battery failure if this is based off voltage or amperage output.

Then CONTACT NEWEGG...

I am having 2 GB DDR 3 Ram. Now I LIKE to Increase it to 6GB RAM.

When I ask the retailer to give 4GB RAM he questioned which frequency you REQUIRED?

I don't know the frequency of my RAM and it's not mentioned on my RAM too.

how to identify RAM frequency. Please help me.

I am attaching my hardware specifications to this query



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Travel to Crucial.com and RUN the Online scanner...it'll tell you exactly what RAM that PC will take...Also, the frequency of your current RAM is shown in your CPU-Z SCREENSHOT, under "max bandwidth". There are several ways of measuring or stating the speed, you could call what you have 1600MHz RAM, or PC3-12800.You will now have an Inbox full of *censored* and fake Rolex messages for using your email addy for a User name..

I bought some used items from ebay to attempt a build of a small server. The parts I chose were:
Intel x5570's
this lga1366 mobo:
http://www.supermicro.com/manuals/motherboard/X58/X8DTT.pdf
an evga 500w 80+ Bronze
and some random MATCHED 1333mhz ecc ddr3 ram

This issue was that upon putting in the 20 pin ATX and the molex (there doesn't seem to be a cpu 4 pin but i could be wrong) and attempting to connect the pins 1 and 2 for starting up the board, nothing happens. I tried this on an identical board i built at the same time and that one doesn't work either. However one time when picking up the board in my hand started it running, for some unexplained reason. Then, I, needing to add components cut off its power and its back at its silly dead state. the psu will start up however as i checked it with a "paperclip test" (anyway the psu's are new from Amazon).

Can anybody out there please put me out of my misery and tell me what's wrong? I've been working on it for LIKE 7 hours to no AVAIL!!! This is why you should have read the manual, especially for an unusual motherboard like that. It states that the power connector pinout is proprietary, you will either need to get a compatible PSU from Supermicro or try and build some sort of adapter based on the information in the manual (Page 2-26), TAKE care with what you are doing as you are at risk of damaging something if you do it wrong. Alternatively you may be better off selling/returning the motherboard again and then buy a more standardised motherboard.

Just got new Amazon Basics A150's. Very nice for the price. Instructions did not say if it is ok to leave speakers on all of the time or if they should be turned off. I recall reading somewhere that they should be turned off. Doesn't seem like it would make much difference but thought I should ask. Thanks.I leave mine turned on all the time. I pull the AC plug out when I go on vacation or away for a few days.

Mine are AC powered and are over 9 years old...no ill effects at all powered at all times.

Made by Bose...Any home electronic device has the potential of causing a fire. But the odds and very low. So for most of us, a power strip with a switch should be enough protection.
For what it is worth...
Appliance fires pose a safety concern
Quote

The Consumer Product Safety Commission, using estimates from 2006 through 2008, says that major appliances caused more than 150,000 residential fires each year, resulting in 3,670 injuries, 150 deaths, and $547 million dollars in property damage

This is a known defect with Apple power adapters, I think - it's happened to me as well. The cable wears as it gets bent back and forth during use, and the wires inside break, and next thing... smoke. And, sometimes, flame.

I unplug mine when I go away because my household insurance demands that I unplug all "unncessary appliances" when away for more than 24 hours.

wow ... never heard of an insurance company specifying this verbally or even in fine writing.

So I don't want to buy a 2nd monitor but I'm finding VOLUME control to be quite unpleasant when games, etc stuff is going on because I have to minimize them, etc. I was TRYING to find a front panel to put in the bays that could have a volume knob or something. So far I must be looking in the WRONG category because I have found zilch. Anyone know of audio controlling front panels? Please and thank you
I GOOGLED "Drive bay volume control" (without the quotes)

Antec Multimedia Station Elite



Antec Multimedia Station Premier



Also you can get PC speakers with volume knobs, and also multimedia keyboards with volume up/down buttons or volume sliders.
See, you guys and GALS are the best haha. I didn't even think about multimedia keyboards either! Thank you very much, I appreciate the help. I'll look into those and the speakers as well.

About 5 months ago I decided to build my first custom rig, specs are as follows...

Asus X99 Deluxe MOBO
I7 5930K 3.0 6core CPU (closed loop water cooler)
Asus GTX 980 GPU
AX 1200I PSU
3TB HHD
(4x8GB) 32 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram DDR3 (I'm PRETTY sure it's DDR3)
Asus PB287Q 28" LED Monitor 4K
Windows 8.1 OS

So I ordered my parts, assembled it, installed OS and drivers all no problem. The PC ran just fine for a little over 5 months. However recently when I restarted it It went into a menu I am not familiar with and did some sort of recovery. (It did this entirely on its own upon restart) I let it finish, assuming it was some kind of routine maintenance. Upon completion it black screened, I have attempted to change the BIOS setup several times and have been met with the message, Overclocking failed! Please enter Setup to re-configure your system. I have the settings set at default, and I am not attempting to overclock anything. (KEEP in mind that the X99 MOBO has its own BIOS screen) I can't figure out whats wrong. Please help if you can I would contact ASUS..
Are you OC'ing it currently ? ?

If so on boot enter BIOS...choose fails safe or default settings and prass F10 to save changes and re-boot...No i am not attempting to overclock, I am currently attempting a refresh.have you got any "friends" or relatives who might have fooled around with your rig while you weren't there? Even if they say they didn't?

No I live by myself, and I always lock my game room when I have friends over. Why do you ask?Quote from: Mowery66 on October 10, 2015, 08:06:20 AM

Why do you ask?

I bought some used items from ebay to attempt a build of a small server. The parts I chose were:
Intel x5570's
this lga1366 mobo:
http://www.supermicro.com/manuals/motherboard/X58/X8DTT.pdf
an evga 500w 80+ Bronze
and some RANDOM matched 1333mhz ecc ddr3 ram

The psu wasn't to the supplied by the manufacturer however I was able to rig it with the correct voltages (not ideal but its a good psu so, whatever...). However I put in a speaker to the JSPKR pins and I only hear the fans amplified, (even when i remove all the ram) , I think. Furthermore no vga input is registered on my monitor. Do I have to start with one cpu and then try to add another after it configures? I am really at a loss. Thank you in advance for looking at my post and answering. I'm so confused! The way this server is you have 2 CPUs, so a 500 watt is ALMOST running like 2 x 250 watt supplies. If any wiring is wrong you could have destroyed the motherboard and components. Additionally the parts are not new. Bought used off of ebay and so you might be dealing with bad part(s).The power is sufficient and having removed one cpu it beeps quickly. (so its posting an error, now) I found out it was that it wasn't detecting memory. I had mine put in the black sockets now I'm trying the blue.
And now it stopped posting again...Having horrible luck! I'd start by getting the correct power supply for this instead of trying to rig up a NORMAL pc power supply to function as a server supply.I think the cpu isn't getting HOT....The heat sinks aren't heating up...Could we ignore the psu thing? Before i hooked it up it certainly did not turn on. and it was beeping ofr a couple seconds so the motherboard was fine, that might be the new problem (cpu not heating up/ starting?) Have patience wit me I've only made one other computer.The CPU will not get hot unless it is under load so not heating up is not a sign that it is not working. Your issue here is using a non-standard motherboard with consumer parts. My advice is to sell or return that motherboard and replace it with a standard ATX board with standard PSU connections, you aren't going to get a case to fit that board either.

That said, for anything beyond a basic home server, you really shouldn't be building it yourself with consumer parts, buying a server premade or building it exclusively with server grade parts is almost always a better option.I know that but i need a high computing machine for my COMPUTATIONS. Are x5570's consumer chips on a server board? The board supports them, me thinks? it said series 5500 and 5600 chips. so the motherboard is the issue? also my chips are lga 1366 so...what else could I use for these Xeons?You have a server chip and a server board but you are trying to use a consumer PSU to power it all, this is your issue. With a PSU like that you should be using a regular ATX form factor board with those CPUs rather than that proprietary Supermicro one. As far as I can tell, that board is designed for supermicro's high density rackmount servers where you would power multiple boards from a single, high powered 12v PSU and then rely on the board to do voltage regulation, it is not designed for a standard desktop PC.

Hello, I have a Razer Blackwidow Ultimate and scince I got it I've noticed something WRONG. Often enough so that even writing this is annoying, keys double PRESS for no reason such as this, ddouble. The problem has persisted from Windows 8 to 10 and I tried lowering the REPEAT delay and RATE but the problem still persists. I've had the keyboard for a year, hoping it'd sort itself out but evidentaly has not.


Thank you, EB165Problem ever since you got it.... it should have been returned back when you originally got it for a replacement under warranty as for the keyboard sounds to be the cause.

You can rule out the computer as the cause if you have a spare keyboard to use instead of this keyboard.I was going to return it but it was a gift and from Newegg, I got it after the 30 day return period expired. It will be under warranty for way more than 30 days.

i'm using a Dell Inspiron 15 - 7000 series 7537 laptop with Windows 8 OS.
I used to have a cooler (Brand: DeepCool, dual fan) connected in one of my USB ports and had the said cooler connected to an optical gaming mouse and a keyboard (the cooler had extra USB slots). It was working perfectly for the past 3 to 4 months, however, when i plugged in the cooler yesterday, it was not detected. and when i SEPARATELY plugged in the mouse, i got the error USB power surge. First, i tried using different USB ports but still got the same error. So i did a little online SEARCH on how to fix it and updated all my drivers, tried SEVERAL methods of uninstalling the USB ports from the device manager and/or disabling them, but my mouse and cooler still do not work. Now, the error message doesn't show up but they are still not working. My USB keyboard is working fine tho.

Any help is appreciated! Cheers!If you avoid the cooler and instead just plug the mouse in direct to the computer, does the keyboard and mouse then both work?

Its quite possible that the cooler itself has died and anything plugged into the cooler will not function.

I am TRYING too get my VIDEO CARD ATI Radeon X1300 setup with Windows 10Okay

My sister gave me her old laptop. I changed the CMOS battery. The display screen is not working. I have it plugged up to an external screen. It shows this "The firmware has detected that a CMOS battery failure occurred continue". I tried hitting f1 and nothing happens. I have tried f2 after pressing the power button but it won't let me change the time or date that way. I have heard people talking about resetting a jumper or shorting a circuit, but I have no clue how to do this. I have to do all this myself because I am flat broke so I can't pay anyone to do it for me. I have a Toshiba Satellite L655D-S5050. Any help would be GREATLY a appreciated.Double check to make sure all ribbon cables are installed correctly. There is a top and bottom to them. One side has the contacts and the other side is smooth plastic. I have seen before where people insert the ribbon cable upside down and lose their keyboard functionality where it worked prior to opening.

With the display if the display worked prior to opening it and not now. Then double check the connections. Some laptops have a video connection plus a connection for the backlight power. Curious as to why anyone would mess with this connection though as for usually the battery is accessible under the keyboard on laptops vs having to totally dismantle it to get to them.Also i've gotten completely dead CMOS batteries fresh outta the package...they are on the shelfs a long time...DaveLembke

THANKS. I'll definitely make sure that both ends of the cables are connected.
The backlight is fine I think because I can SEE the screen flash when it powers down.
As far as the battery goes. It was on the bottom side of the motherboard. It wasn't under the keyboard.

Patio

I paid $7 for my battery at the famous Wally WORLD who don't give a crap about anything other than the money they make off people. Any clue where I can get it fresh and cheaper? I'll try anything...If you have a multimeter you can check to see if the battery is 3V. Additionally make sure its installed the right way facing down.
Yeah, the battery is facing the right way. I looked up images on Google to make sure. I can't get to my multimeter right now. We just did a major cleaning and my stuff I don't use frequently is locked up.UPDATE:
The display screen is working fine, but it still says that a CMOS battery failure occurred. I just bought the battery for $7 at WalMart.If you PRESS F1 to continue does this system otherwise function fine? What did you have to do to get your display to WORK again?
Thanks for the help everyone. :-)
I plugged in an external keyboard and reset the time and date in the BIOS and that fixed it. Dave: for the display I went in and made sure that all my wires were connected.

My cmos battery failure please help?i will give you a brief story what happen on my pc before errors occured..my cousin borrowed my pcwith good condition and even no single error.what he did on my pc is he remove my processor to try to fit on his weak computer..and he ALSO reposition the side fan of the case to back area.after a week i got my pc with errors occured on my pc booting

The FOLLOWING are warnings that are detected during this boot
These can be viewed in setup on Event Log Page.

WARNING: CMOS Battery Failure

WARNING:CMOS CHECKSUM Error

WARNING:CMOS Time Not Set

I bought a new CR2032 3v Lithium battery and i REPLACE the old batter to the newone and changing date and time

on the bios setup but still after i turn off my pc and want to use it errors still occoured :-(

Please help me and sorry for my english..
Please include the model number of your computer.
Test the CMOS cell with a voltmeter.
Make sure the battery is in the right position.
Check and see if the jumpers are in the right place. See your user manual.

Greetings!

As PATIO pointed out, LONG TIME NO see . Schools a pain and my brothers complaining his laptop is SLOOOOW. Now considering it was a free gift i cant complain, but its a Toshiba Satellite.(Ill list the full specs at the bottom) Anyways its AMD athlon is slow and when i opened the RAM compartment i NOTICED the CPU is removable. SO i was wondering, what CPU upgrade can this thing handle?

Toshiba Satellite L645D
AMD athlon P340 @2.2Ghz
4GB DDR3 RAm (2x 2Gb sticks)
500Gb seagate Barracuda (i think)
AMD onboard graphics, not 100% sure which one.
Ran windows 7 Home, now running windows 10 Home.

Any suggestions are acceptable. Thanks In the BIOS does it specify a version rev?

You probably wont find a CPU that is much better that it already has. Additionally the GPU is weak with the Mobility Radeon HD 4250.

Unless your doing something that is computationally intensive, I am willing to bet that the CPU is probably not your trouble spot for performance and its really your GPU that is holding back your performance.

I have a Satellite with the Athlon II 2.0Ghz with M300 Radeon GPU and the GPU is what caused me to retire it from gaming. Its pretty sad when a Celeron M1000 1.8Ghz with Intel HD Graphics laptop performs better than the Athlon II 2.0Ghz with M300 graphics.

I wouldnt bother with a CPU swap if this was my own laptop. If you want to game with it its best to invest in a newer laptop.I agree with Dave, a CPU upgrade isn't likely to make that much of a difference in general usage - I'd recommend upgrading to an SSD if you want to have the machine feeling more snappy in loading programs etc.Although i agree that the GPU is just as pathetic as the CPU, no one said anything about gaming. My brother simply uses this machine as a web browsing and word, powerpoint machine. Gaming on a laptop in my opinion is just something that shouldnt be done. I wanted a CPU swap because i know i can get one even free if i wanted. BUt not sure how to go back finding out what this machine can handle.

Im used to using previous gen machines and maximizing their power. My backup machine is an old IBM that has a 1.8GHZ core 2 duo with a 2mb cache and is previous gen machine that has DDR2 and smokes this toshiba out of the water. I get the toshiba was probably a walmart machine but there has to be a better cpu for it. I'd research to see if there is a BIOS flash for this laptop. If you find a flash for it it might state the support list of CPUs. Otherwise if no newer flash is available then knowing the bios version might give insight into what that version specifically supports.

Biggest issue will be heat dissipation of a faster performing CPU. You will want to stick with a CPU that is the same TDP. If you can get one free and dont mind taking the chance of killing the laptop you can have at it. The suggestion that Calum had with the SSD is one sure way to get a performance gain, and if the laptop dies and doesnt kill the SSD with it then you can move the SSD later to another laptop or desktop etc.

Laptops should never be compared to Desktops as for Desktop CPUs just about always outperform. Even todays Core i3,i5, and i7's the Desktop Version generally outperforms the Mobile version. This is because its part marketing to make a laptop sound more powerful than it is as well as they are trying to keep the battery life maximized and long battery life and performance together usually dont occur. Its usually long battery life and lesser performance or greater performance and lesser battery life per charge.

Btw if you still have that Core 2 Duo E4300 1.8Ghz.... if you upgrade to the Core 2 Duo E6600 or better than that, you will see quite a difference. But if your happy with the E4300 or the system doesnt support the 6000 series Core 2 Duos you can remain at the 1.8Ghz. I was given a HP Pavilion desktop with the E4300 in it and found it kind of laggy running Windows 7 32-bit Home Premium on 3GB DDR2 667Mhz on a 320GB SATA II HDD. The E6600 upgrade was like night and day in performance comparison. Far better performance.Dave, Appreciate all your input. An SSD is defiantly a great boost i wont deny that. My main machine being a 2007 Macbook 3,1 ran it for the year. sadly i just sent it out to be warrantied as i lost all my first week notes as the drive failed. On a PLUS side, Kingston has a 3 year warranty for the 300V's and i hope to get it back next week.

As for the laptop, i did an AMD upgrade before with an Acer. When i recieved it, it ran a crappy sepron, and now happily runs a Turion with dual core each core 512kb cache and actually boots windows 7 faster then this laptop haha! Ive decided that due to midterms and my brother and i needing a machine, not to tear it apart just yet. But i will ask, what do you mean by TDP?

In the terms of that 4300, yeah thats the one i have. I ran windows 7 Home 64bit on it and once i gave it 4gb of ram the machine flew. I added a Nvidia 210 i think it is and it even plays some basic games. The chip is 64bit so wouldnt running 32bit slow things down? When 10 came out i UPGRADED it and now it runs windows 10 Home 64bit and managed to get another gig of Ram. And its a great little backup desktop. I realize even i should have known comparing portable to stationary isnt fair.

But seriously, when i got the 4300, i had 2gb and it ran horribly, I gave it 3gb a day later, little better. But once i got 4Gb and 64bit it really works great. I have considered an upgrade as i just put together another C2D build that has a 6300 1.8Ghz in it. I was thinking buying the 6400 chip sticking it into the new build and taking that chip and sticking it into the ibm. None the less it will all have to wait till christmas break.
Not LOCATING any CPU upgrade info for you on your model. I'd say if you can get the CPU free and really want to do the upgrade and take a gamble at killing it. You can try this CPU http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Turion%20II%20Ultra%20Dual-Core%20Mobile%20M640%20-%20TMM640DBO23GQ.html

It was mentioned here for a upgrade of a similar laptop... but no info on whether it was a success or not

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2118431/replace-athlon-m300-turion-ultra-m660.html

One would hope that the thread didnt go silent with a success or didnt work feedback because they killed their one and only laptop and means to the internet.

I have performed upgrades in the past blindly with desktops with CPUs that are missing from the support list or last of a list all together and generally they either work or dont work, however I did get a old Compaq that was a socket 370 Celeron 500Mhz to upgrade to a Pentium III 800Mhz once that didnt officially support it and I just had to agree to F1 to continue at a Microcode Error since there was no newer BIOS flash to support the better CPU. I was able to run this system normal and healthy on the Pentium III 800Mhz, but at boot you had to press F1 to continue at the Microcode Error. There is always the chance that you will place a CPU in that the VRMs are not heavy enough duty to power such as the CPU this one guy wanted to use was a 35w TDP CPU in place of a 25 watt TDP original CPU. Those 10 watts might be too much for the VRMs.

I have a SE7210TP1-E, which I took out of the COMPUTER I made for gaming reasons. I connected everything correctly, but, it will not beep or post.SE7210TP1-E is a server motherboard.

Have you READ the MANUAL?
http://download.intel.com/support/motherboards/server/se7210tp1-e/sb/c49109002se7210tp1eusersguide.pdf
Quote

Power Supply
A minimum of 450 Watts is required. Your supply must provide a minimum of 1.2 A of 5 V standby current or the board will not boot.

I'm well aware of that it is. So it likely is that I don't have the other cou power connector in which, I don't know which, I need too put in

SE7210TP1-E is a server motherboard.

Have you read the manual?
http://download.intel.com/support/motherboards/server/se7210tp1-e/sb/c49109002se7210tp1eusersguide.pdf

• Support for an Intel Pentium 4 processor in an mPGA478
• Four 184-pin DDR SDRAM Dual Inline Memory Module (DIMM) sockets.
• Support for up to 4 GB Unbuffered ECC system memory

I ordered a NEW pc and my old pc has a bad motherboard...Can I just put my old HD in the new pc if they are both sata so I don't have to copy all my stuff?You can do however you won't be able to properly run your OS or programs from the old disk, they may work but will likely cause issues. There is however nothing wrong with booting from the new PC's HDD and then purely using the old one to access your old files.If your only goal is to obtain extra MEMORY for your new PC (which I assume is the case) then yes you can, although it is best to COMPLETELY erase all of the data from the drive before adding it to your new PC. If you WANT to keep some of the data I would suggest TRANSFERRING only what data you need to another drive then erasing the old one and adding it to your new rig. Hope this helps!What Win version are we talking about here ? ?

I am building a Supercomputer made out of 4x 16 core machines running at 2.93 Ghz, stock. I was wondering if the head node for the cluster is required to have any performance characteristics? I mean to say, should it be a good computer? Will it matter if I throw on a cheap pentium 4 or will I be better off with a duo core or ever duo core with hyperthreading etc.... The idea is that the head-node relays info from the workstation, and therefore isn't too important (spec-wise), is that right?

Also, when connecting the computers together to a "router" could I simply use a cheapo router that I might have left over from an old internet provider? Is there a difference in the hardware? Will the bandwidth of only 100 mbps off the boards really be constrained by the router, too much, realistically?Ricky ( the master cluster node ) should be equal to the Lucys in spec. Its not a requirement, but for best performance its best to be balanced between Ricky and all the Lucys.

You can get by with 100mbps network, but I'd go with a Gigabit 1000mbps network. You can get by with a low cost switch or router acting as a switch etc.

Curious as to what you will be crunching for data and what OS of choice you will be using for your cluster?This thread has my attention. May I ask questions?
Have you made any working model yet? Some kind of down scaled working Super computer micro version?
Is there some project others have done that serves as a guide?

Thanks for letting me ask. It really depends on what sort of cluster you are running and how it is designed. While the head node is generally uses to launch jobs, it often COORDINATES a lot of the rest of the things that go on in the cluster.

In Hadoop for EXAMPLE the head node coordinates resources in the cluster as well as manages the distributed file system, it needs to be a pretty powerful node to do this, in some cases, more powerful than the individual data processing nodes.I have built up 4 separate server computers which will be running microsoft server 2008 or 2012 with its hpc pack (b/c I do not LINUX as they say). They work off of 4 supermicro X8DTT-F boards with 2 x5570 chips on each board giving 8 cores with hyper-threading i.e. like having 16 cores (I like thinking of it that way). The chips run at 2.93 Ghz, but theoretically i could overclock but not good for a Xeon so forgetting about it right away. It's my first time building up a cluster so I'm not sure of how it all comes together. My workstation itself is a majestic quad core that is good for smallish simulations (4000 real- time plotted entities) but not enough for the incredibly large matrix feeds I will need in the future, so instead of investing $500 in computer time, I decided to build my own cluster.

The hardware part was kinda difficult to get down but that's all figured out now. Stacked up on layers of headers the boards layout to be the size of a small or medium atx case (probably could just stick it in one). I haven't had any previous projects or attempts with the system. In my mind, as I have understood what you have been saying, I would have thought that the cluster head would do all that you have already said...but do I really need a 16 thread machine to run all those machines? Is it not really overkill since the machine won't be computing at all? Reason for me asking is that I read some other sites where it pointed only to the clock speed of the head node and the fact that it will "just" be the via point to allow users to access the cluster.
And if the cluster spreads to be 8 machines or more, what can i do? Should I invest in some cheap network cards (1 PCI lane - the board only has one) and maybe a cheap ssd for the head node, since it might be writing something down, mid-processing? (the cluster nodes have simple 7200 rpm hdd's)

I will be running matlab with the hpc programming pack for my first codes and such. I will need to display lots of particulate interactions with this system so if you are familiar with the hpc systemology of matlab (which i think takes care of node MANAGEMENT (as I read on their website and talked to SOMEBODY on the phone about)) if you could give me some advice before I go out and buy either something that will not work well or is too expensive, I'd be grateful. Maybe tmi but I do my best.
You would really need to look into what the head node actually does with what you are doing and go from there. Why not try a cluster with 3 of your Xeon machines then use one of them as a head node and then test using an older machine as your head node instead and see how that affects performance. It could also be worth considering running the head node on one of the processing nodes to see how that works, either on the same OS or in a virtual machine. I'm not aware of Matlab having any sort of complex filesystem so you could well be okay with a lower spec head node.

You should definitely be using a gigabit network for this but you probably don't need any separate network cards, just use the onboard ones and a reasonable Gigabit switch.Quote from: camerongray on October 29, 2015, 09:10:06 AM

You should definitely be using a gigabit network for this but you probably don't need any separate network cards, just use the onboard ones and a reasonable Gigabit switch.

Although I FOLLOW the method on the hp help site for viewing the ink level DISPLAY images on my 3-in-1 COMPUTER I never succeed in accessing the said display images.

Can anyone KINDLY help an old-age PENSIONER please?

I use the hp deskjet 3-in-1 printer 1050 J410 series.

Many thanks.

GUZEPPI

I have both motherboards, and i want to know which ONE should be the one to use for gaming and watching hd movies on (POWERFUL) and which one to listen to music and use photoshop with (less powerful)
What tells me the strengh of a pc? Is it the processor's highest number? Please inform me.
Here are the specs:
P5E-VM DO: http://www.cnet.com/products/asus-p5e-vm-do-motherboard-micro-atx-lga775-socket-q35-series/specs/
P5E-VM HDMI : http://www.cnet.com/products/asus-p5e-vm-hdmi-motherboard-micro-atx-lga775-socket-g35-series/specs/

The winner will have 8gb of ram put into and the other 4gb until i find a deal on ram.The motherboard is virtually irrelevant in terms of performance therefore the one with the Q9400 would win as it is by far the better processor.Can i simply swap the Q9400 processor into the P5E-VM HDMI without flashing or anything? Because I prefer the fan control in this one.I can't see any reason that you couldn't, the boards are virtually the same.I succesfully did it, WORKS greatDid what ? ?...decided ? i switched processors, uptated bios on both, and they work great...ISH?
I dont really notice that much difference in both computers.
My next step would be to make them both silent as a cloud.
I dabbled into speedfan and bios Q-Fan options. I have so many questions left unanswered.
Is all that noise a question of processor?thermal paste?fan quality?motherboard's year or brand?
It's not THAT noisy but i always want to know more in the quest of a semi perfect computer for my liking, and i dont play 3d games or multiplayers online and such.
Im an old school gamer, i like myself a good 8bit shovel knight or at best ori and the blind forest. I watch 720p quality movies at best for my tv capacity.
It aint much. So what make the systems become hot with what i got?

Asus P5e-VM HDMI with Q9400 Processor and latest bios available
8gb of quality corsair 800mhz ram and a thermatake 430w powersupply.
What would be to do? You'd be best to actually listen to the PC and try to find out what is making the most sound, it could even be your hard drive vibrating. You may find that new, quieter fans or anti-vibration mounts for your hard drive may help.

Hello. Please accept my apology if this is in the wrong place, I do not know what I am doing yesterday everything was ok but today I cannot use the mouse pad with my fingers. I have been online for an hour and a half trying to get help and have tried to follow the instructions but when I click on 'mouse' in the control panel, the dialogue box does not appear Please help. I have a Lenovo Ideapad Z500 Touch. See Here...

Perhaps you DISABLED it by accident...Hi, how would I have disabled it please? How do I enable it?Read the link.Hi, sorry, didn't see it lol tried FN F8, didn't work, have also tried Fn F5/6/9Is there an external mouse plugged in ? ?

Cause that disables the touchpad...
If not CHECK Device Manager for any Yellow !!'s...which indicate corrupt/missing drivers.
no externals and no yellows Another Source...the mouse pad is moving the curser and letting me click, it's the scrolling that is the problemThe scroll pad is on the RIGHT ...correct ? ?
It may not be working from age...too many cheeto's etc...
Check all settings in Control Panel/Touchpad etc etc...I NEED someone to tell me why the mouse dialogue box wont open

I bought some used items from ebay to attempt a build of a small server. The parts I chose were:
Intel x5570's
this lga1366 mobo:
http://www.supermicro.com/manuals/motherboard/X58/X8DTT.pdf
some random matched 1333mhz ecc ddr3 ram

AND now a new old psu
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381377833764?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I assumed because it was for supermicro and that is 1U it should work for the board. I plugged it in after plugging in the motherboard 20 pin and molex(no led no power button). I tried shorting out the power pins but no response from the mobo. Any suggestions? It seemed like there was only 2 things to plug in... No HDD attached just wanted to see if the mobo ran. This is why you need to take more CARE and read manuals of the parts as well as look at what you are buying - That PSU will not work with that motherboard, as I said before, your motherboard is a propriatery design aimed at high density enclosures and not standard machines, that PSU on the other hand is designed for motherboards that use standard ATX servers. The power supply pinout in the manual clearly shows that the power supply connector on the board is entirely 12v and ground wheras the PSU you ORDERED is a standard ATX pinout with a mix of 12v, 5v and 3.3v rails.

What you need to do is scrap the idea of using that motherboard and instead buy a standard ATX motherboard that works with a regular PSU. The motherboard you have is totally unsuitable for a machine like this, you won't even be able to find a case to fit it!

You should be able to find a lot of ATX supermicro boards which will support your CPUs. However, these will usually require a pair of 8pin EPS connectors due to the dual CPU setup when most PSUs will have one of them. You should however be able to get an adapter that will allow you to adapt one of your PCI-E connectors to act as the secondary EPS connector.You have been very helpful. I did not fully understand what you meant by proprietary. I'm sorry to bother you but I have these motherboards and I'd really like them to work out. I know buying something else is a great answer (that works most of the time) but these are the ones i have now. I can't return them. Is there a way to work around? I am very resourceful and working out new headers and even "falsifying a handshake" is alright with me. (Of course with the usual precautions etc...) I simply am frustrated. If it is that the motherboards aren't any good, I'd be fine with that but they seem functional and I'd risk some cheap ram and cpus on it.In that case I would sell the boards you have, trying to get them to work is more hassle than it's worth. By proprietary inmean that the power connection is something made up by supermicro so that the board runs entirely off of 12v, this is complely different from a standard PSU which feeds various different voltages to the board.It is worth my while (its no hassle, just another daily hack). What could I do (hack-wise)?Camerongray is Right. Just sell it.
OR
You need to find at least on Power Supply made just for that motherboard. The you could use it as a model of making some kind of substitute unit.

If you are not into custom hardware design and prototyping, you could be better off selling your inventory to somebody who has the experience and materials.
The only option I would recommend is to try and find the power supply designed specifically for the board. Trying to bodge a different PSU on is only going to cause trouble and probably end up breaking something. Modern ATX PSUs are not designed to provide only 12v so even if you did get it working, you will be pushing your PSU to its limit by only loading the 12v rail.I am willing to take that risk. That might not be sensible but I don't have to be!
I was really just asking if anyone knew some way.I can service and bodge anything, I have the equipment. I just need an explanation. (btw the psu will suffice on the 12v rail I only need ~200W.)Quote

That might not be sensible but I don't have to be!

Hey all,

I have been getting these weird patches of distortion on my screen often. They go away most of the time when I do anything to change/refresh that area of the screen. For example if I mouse over it could go away. Does anyone know what this is and how I can stop it?

Thanks for taking a look. Here is the relevant information of my machine:









Looks to me LIKE the graphics adapter may be failing and/or overheating. Since it is an Alienware I expect it probably uses a dedicated Radeon or Geforce card. You may want to try to CLEAN out any vents with compressed air. It may also be worth updating your graphics DRIVERS, just to eliminate that as a possible cause.

I believe that model of Alienware may have two graphics adapters- a Radeon or Geforce card, and the built-in Intel. Another idea may be to try to disable the Radeon/Geforce dedicated graphics, and see if the PROBLEM GOES away if so then it would see the issue is with the dedicated.Great, I'll give those things a try and report back.
I tried these things and they did not help.In that case, it sounds like the Graphics adapter probably failed.

Hi...new here.. from India.
Thinking of upgrading my 11 year OLD pc with D845GVSR motherboard from 1gb to 2 gigs.....what ram should it support and will it take 1gb on each slot?

found ONE here will it support :

http://www.flipkart.com/hynix-genuine-ddr-1-gb-333-mhz-pc-h15201504-3/p/itme6j6fmtwqxnrj?pid=RAME6J6FQJMNNZYE&ref=L%3A1379479259173768430&srno=p_2&query=ram&otracker=from-search

the one in the link has speed of PC2700U insted of just PC2700... so confused !?!

Plz Help!!!Do you really NEED more than 1gb RAM? The machine is 11 year old, you are going to be limited mostly by the CPU, not the RAM. Not worth SPENDING any money on IMO.

My problem, in a nutshell, is that my brand new Logitech G910 mechanical keyboard had a substantial amount of my hot coffee (w/cream) poured exactly where you don't want it to go. After trying a few things we arrive here today with the keyboard disassembled and cleaned, and all of the keys working except one. The spacebar. Which if broken renders this a hunk of garbage I paid AUD$230 for. If you know if just a spacebar is repairable then please be my guest and skip straight to the head of the queue!

So let's rewind...my coffee gets spilt on the keyboard.

I yank the keyboards USB to power down the keyboard. There is only one USB on this model.

I flip the keyboard instantly and drain what I can onto my desk which is a lot, but the keyboard is holding a fair bit in hard to get to places, I can just tell so I soak it in a bathtub full of luke warm water for 15mins to try and loosen anything (like coffee) that may have congealed under the spacebar. I can't tell if it worked so I DECIDE to start drying it.

I go and get Chux towelettes to soak up what liquid I cannot reach, and what will not drain for whatever reason. I proceed to use over the next half an hour PAPER towels, ear cotton buds (for where my fingers couldn't fit), make up removal pads, kitchen sponges (clean & dry), a tea towel and finally a blow dryer (not on "inferno" setting either btw if you happen to be playing along at home with the same problem.

I then reassemble the whole unit and try it out only to get the same results. All good except for the space bar doesn't work.
I partially disassemble the keyboard again and leave it in a warm place to dry slowly in case I missed something, but I don't think I did.

After 7 days of rotating the keyboard while it sun baked itself dry (not extreme hot btw), it gets me excited so I plug it in to test it, but alas, it disappoints me again. Everything is fine bar that stupid spacebar again.

I have no idea if it can be repaired, the spacebar problem I mean.
If it can be, is it a lot of $$$ to fix just one key?
Is this a dead pony? Should I just buy a new one tomorrow?
Thanks for any help you can provide me. I am so peeved at myself. I had saved up for months to buy myself this keyboard for my 40th birthday and it only lasted me 7 weeks.

Jim
While it's quite a big job I'd recommend taking the keyboard apart down to the raw PCB, then try shorting across the space bar switch contacts with something metal, if this types a space then its just the switch that has gone which is cheap (under $2) to replace (although it does require some soldering). This may also show up some other areas affected by the coffee.

This is the good thing about mechanical keyboards, they are generally fairly serviceable.In order to DISLODGE the spacebar here is a site that can show you how to:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RSyi-PS7nU
before you mess with any electronics repair inspect the keyboard.
If it only REALLY needs a clean, try that first!okThe keyboard, as cameron grey said, should be tested. The metal contact is so that you can tell if the switch was working (making the contact) whether or not it gives a signal to make a *space*. If it doesn't its a more complex issue.
I don't know how good your keyboard is and whether you are particular about it but you can theoretically but a pretty decent mechanical keyboard from a goodwill shop for a buck or two (but I understand you would like to try and fix it first).Well I have cleaned every square inch of it, so it's not anything I can visibly see.

I tried shorting across the terminals like you said and I can get it to type out this over and over -

"333 +3 3+3 3333+33+g v+ vvvvv+ v v33 +3++++v+3 33v+v g3 3 +g3 gvv3++++ v+ v3v v+ + g3+v3+ v3vv3vt+ g3+v3t g+g3++gxe2/2//xx/x2x/xxx2x2e2e/e/eeee/d2d2d2d2x2dddd/d2xd/x2xded/2xx2x22mkmmmkmmkkkkmkkkmmkmkkkkmmmkkkkkkkkkmkkmkkmmk"

soooooo, I'm thinking that's not great either?

@mrfesh - thanks for your reply mate, that video is good but the new Logitech designed MECH keys are different to the Cherry MX design that is so commonly used. They are called Romar-G keys. I know that it's possible to grab a cheapie but I spent $240 on this one as it's the new RGB model from Logitech and I sorta love it.and that's over the spacebar?
Seems kinda bad.
Can't return it right?
A professional repair might be your best bet. It would require some electrical engineering i.e. replacing components. If you do grab a look at the pcb look to see if anything is charred. If so, you could potentially replace that piece. It also potentially could be the moisture. My two cents is to leave it to dry longer or something like that. (Blow-dry) there could be static charge offset across the board due the moisture, if it seemed under some of the pcb plastic (sometimes can). when pressing other buttons what does it give?

I recently bought a Sapphire Nitro R9 380 from Amazon and decided to fit it in myself. However I found out that I need more than I have. I need 2 PCI-E pins to actually power this beast, however my PSU only has ONE PCI-E 6+2 pin. I have tried fitting in what I have, but the graphics card works for HALF a SECOND, then powers down. What should I do?You will need to get a better power supply - Not having the suitable pins MAKES me think that it was NEVER designed to drive as high powered a card as the R9 380. Do not risk adapters, they can totally throw the load on the PSU off and damage components, not worth the risk.I am not an expert but you could try a solution I have found as useful in the past.
(***Disclaimer: I am not responsible for anything that may or may not happen to anything***)
You could connect up another psu with a pci-e and jump the green and black wires to supply the extra amperage.
Its a really good gc so I'm not sure if you'd like to try it but it could very well work that way.

As the title says my PC started rebooting during games, and after running many stress tests and following suggestions, I finally found a WAY to replicate the problem. When I run OCCT PSU stress test, my PC reboots within a second. It was unexpected since running Prime 95 together with Furmark didn't cause any reboots.

Anyway, do you think the issue is my PSU (corsair hx750w)? I already have a new graphics card arriving within 10 days. How should I go from here to find the issue? My specs here: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vK3NbvQuote from: Eadan on September 23, 2015, 10:01:53 PM

... Anyway, do you think the issue is my PSU (corsair hx750w)?...

100 - 240 V 47 - 63 Hz
[emailprotected], [emailprotected], [emailprotected], [emailprotected], [emailprotected]

Hello Friends,

I already know that in order to upgrade my WINDOWS x32 to Windows X64 I need to format the HARD drive.

If I have anther hard drive with data only, PICTURES, videos, etc. Will that also have to be formatted?

-MalAs long as you don't format it it won't be but I'd recommend physically disconnecting while you do the REINSTALL it to be safe.Only the drive you designate for formatting will be formatted.Thank you everyone!

By the way, your first post SAYS you GOT an error when installing the OS. What was that error? And how long does it take the SYSTEM to boot?it was (The partitions on the DISK selected for installation are not in the recommended order). And to be hones all of a sudden the laptop is doing just fine now the last couple of restarts and the wake ups were ok. Who knows maybe just decided to do ok.
Okay, good to HEAR.

Is there a noticeable difference between a hard drive performance with 2MB Cache and 8MB Cache. Drives of same storage capacity 160GB and same speed 7200 RPM?

I have a system running on a 2MB Cache 160GB SATA II 7200 rpm and just acquired a 8MB Cache 160GB SATA II HDD that is healthy. If the difference is not that impressive I will not bother, but if the 6MB of extra cache makes a big difference I will SWAP drives out and build CLEAN to the greater cache same storage capacity and RPM drive.

Found this info, but its apples to oranges with IDE / SATA drives and I am sticking with SATA II for both drives if I swap. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/214255-32-16mb-cache-performance-games-audio


This drive here is in the system with 2MB Cache http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148692

And this is the drive I just got free and healthy according to crystaldiskinfo that has 8MB Cache http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148230

Couldnt find any info on any actual performance statistics to show if its just a 3% gain in data acquisition speed etc or something better like 10% or greater performance gain in how fast the drive can access and transfer the data.


* Maybe I just need to connect it as an extra drive and run a benchmark on both and compare that way, however the system only has 2 SATA ports and the other is used by DVD-RW. Couldnt find any benchmark info online like you find easily available for GPUs and CPUsI believe the difference between 8 MB and 2 MB will be too small to notice.

Quote

Maybe I just need to connect it as an extra drive and run a benchmark on both and compare that way, however the system only has 2 SATA ports and the other is used by DVD-RW.

Hey guys!

I have had an ongoing issue, i think I have found the root of the problem but i wanna know what you guys think! So, I had some major problems with defective products sent to me by newegg, its a long story, however my processor and mobo ENDED up being doa and i finally got new ones from them.

However after my setup, when i power up, i get no display at all. fans spin and everything but no display. There is no issue with the gpu as I have tested for this, and I also know the cpu and mobo are not defective as I have tested for this as well. The only thing i can really think of now is the ram.

after researching and doing the no post checklist multiple times, i ended up finding that my ram is not listed on the qvl for my mobo. Could this be the issue? Can incompatible ram cause no Display?

Thanks!!

specs

GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3P AM3+ AMD 970 6 x SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard

AMD FX-6350 Vishera 6-Core 3.9 GHz Socket AM3+ 125W FD6350FRHKBOX Desktop Processor

ZOTAC GeForce GTX 960 ZT-90309-10M 4GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 HDCP READY SLI SUPPORT AMP! Edition Video Card

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL

mem qvl for my mobo is attached

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Did you already see this?
http://www.pc-specs.com/mobo/GigaByte/Gigabyte_GA-970A-UD3P/2428/Compatible_RAM

You must use compatible RAM.
I can't see any reason why that RAM would not be compatible - Have you tried one stick at once to RULE out one of them being bad? Have you tried the machine outside of the case to rule out any sort of shorts and have you tried a different power supply in case that is the problem? Are BOTH power connections to the motherboard connected?Quote from: Geek-9pm on October 27, 2015, 10:18:36 AM

Did you already see this?
http://www.pc-specs.com/mobo/GigaByte/Gigabyte_GA-970A-UD3P/2428/Compatible_RAM

You must use compatible RAM.

I can't see any reason why that RAM would not be compatible - Have you tried one stick at once to rule out one of them being bad? Have you tried the machine outside of the case to rule out any sort of shorts and have you tried a different power supply in case that is the problem? Are BOTH power connections to the motherboard connected?

This item is a MONTH old. In case you missed it...
NVIDIA has to do a recall again.
Good to READ that its not anything I BOUGHT that is nVidia RELATED.

My Western Digital 1.0 TB external HDD makes noise when powered on. Spins up and down( I guess). Not detected by computer. It works sometimes after powering it on and off several times. It's connected using a sata 3.5 to usb adapter with separate power supply and connected to my laptop.
I have attached the sound file (HDD.zip) along with the post. Can someone identify the problem.

Thankyou

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]2 things can cause this...

#1 - The drive might not be getting adequate power and do it is stuck in an initialization cycle where it starts to spin up and then voltage drops and it cuts out and when it cuts out the voltage jumps back up, so it then starts to spin up again until the voltage drops under load and repeats over and over.

#2 - The drive might be unhealthy. Either the motor is not spinning the platters at the correct speed or the drive controller board has an issue.


I have seen some of the kits for turning hard drives into external drives have issues. I bought a cheap one on EBAY about 5 years ago that the power supply that CAME with it was junk. The power connection only had 3 pins of 4 with female connections so the 5 and 12 volts shared a COMMON vs both of the voltages having their own dedicated common back to the power supply. It caused my drives connected to it to spin up and down in a cycle over and over. I ended up plugging the hard drive into a desktop computer to power it off an ACTUAL PC power supply and then connected the USB SATA adapter to it and then placed the USB cable into the computer and ran it as an internal external drive. The drive then worked with no problems. This might be the problem your having, or your drive might just be ill.1st off show the adapter you used....2nd i didn't listen to the .wav but if it's clikking it's on it's way out.Thank you for your replies

I'm attaching a picture of the adapter.
The pins provide 5.45 volt & 11.15 volt. I guess its enough to run the HDD

The hardisk works when i shake it sideways ( I should not, but that's the only way to make it work).

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]If u have clicking noise then u have to open the hdd and move the stick from the disks
(make sure u do NOT touch the disks)....check this vid :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7m5cil6KezIIgnore the above post.whats wrong in it ??It is the power supply. I have the same problem. Repeatedly.
To confirm this, measure the voltages when the HDD is connected and running. The solution is to get a better power supply. The ratings on those cheap supplies are not true. They do not deliver full power during the spin-up cycle of the HDD.

About half of the cheap kits I have bought have this problem. It is never the HDD. To confirm, run the HDD from a desktop PSU. It will work fine.

Also, look at this:
eBay- External 12 volt 2 amp and 5 volt 2 amp PSU for HDD or CD-ROM.

The unit above has about 50% more power than the cheep ones.
No, it is NOT my listing. Quote from: ayan on October 14, 2015, 10:30:41 AM

whats wrong in it ??

The drive is OK.

What ? ?