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Lately whenever I boot up, I get annoying messages saying "Found new hardware" for my CD-RW & DVD ROM drives which came already installed with my 3-year old PC, and wants to go thru the Hardware Installation Wizard process. Checking Device Manager and Device Signing indicates the drivers are ok and working properly, and I end up having to cancel out of it. What can be causing this, and how can it be fixed? Any help will be greatly appreciated.The CD Drive might not be connected properly. After you cancel it, does it still WORK?
And of course, what computer are you USING and what CD Drive is it?The PC is a Dell Dimension 4600 and the CD drive is a Sony CRX216E. Is this something related to BIOS to correct?What happened prior to this? What operating system? Is it seen correctly in the BIOS? ETC.?The drives still work, I just want to get rid of the annoying "Found new hardware" when I boot up. Probably the reason it happened is I was trying to install an MTP driver for a Sandisk mp3 player which the PC would not recognize as a removable drive. In the process I MUST have hosed something up. I am not familiar enough to know how to access the BIOS. Am RUNNING Windows XP, SP2.Uninstall the MTP driver that didn't work...that's where the problem lies.

**** Kinda looking for a prodigy's advice ****

**********************************************************
LOGISYS Computer PS575XBK ATX12V 575W
Over Voltage Protection Yes
Input Voltage 100-120V/ 200-240V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 10/ 5A
Output [emailprotected],[emailprotected],[emailprotected],
[emailprotected],[emailprotected] .0A
MTBF >100,000 Hours
Approvals cUL, FCC, CB, CE, CSA
1 x Main connector (20+4Pin)
1 x 12V(P4)
5 x peripheral
2 x SATA
1 x Floppy
2 x PCI-E
**********************************************************

APEVIA See-Through ATX-AS500W-BK ATX12V 500W
Power Good Signal 100-500ms
Hold-up Time >10ms at full load
Efficiency >70% under max range load
Over Voltage Protection Yes
Overload Protection Yes
Input Voltage 115/230 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 10A @ 115V, 5A @ 230V
Output [emailprotected], [emailprotected], [emailprotected],[emailprotected],
[emailprotected], [emailprotected], [emailprotected]
MTBF 100,000 hours at full load/25°C
Approvals CB IEC 950/ TUV EN 60950/ UL 1950/ CSA 950
1 x Main connector (20+4Pin)
1 x 12V (P4)
2 x SATA
8 x Peripheral
2 x Floppy
**********************************************************
Well, newegg.com shows about $30 price difference on those two units. So, I'd say it's not a very good comparison. Actually, I'd say the higher priced one, the second one, is obviously a better PSU. However, I'll suggest FSP Group (Fortron Source) AX450-PN, 12cm FAN, version 2.2, 2 SATA, PCI Express, 450W Power Supply - Retail. It has better reviews that either of the ones you mentioned. I bought an FSP AX400-PN 3 months ago and am pleased with it.lol, here's the beef* (thanks for your input)
the 29.00 piece of you know what* just arrived tonight, i have both now...
I went with a few costly pieces of hardware and committed a mortal sin and left less $$$ for my psu...

I am willling to try out the new cheap one - 575 watt and see if she is somewhat stable for awhile... eventually i will get a nice one but thought the reviews were not too bad on el cheapo

i will need to power the msi 8800 gts 320 mb with either of these 2 so I am somewhat concerned?

2 hds 2 dvds a media card reader/ a floppy and 3 fans and large Zalman cpu fan
the psu calculator came up to about 475 guesstimator but... my choice here is a little more expensive DUAL psu or the higher wattage el cheapo thats not dual?Return the cheapo and use that bread towards a good one...Trust me on this one.That's never the place to save money. You'd have thought I WOULD have learned something from you after almost a year now! Hey, I live on the edge. look at these guys below who own the el cheapo*

Tech Level: high
Ownership: more than 1 year


3/25/2007 7:05:52 AM

Rating + 5Rating + 5Rating + 5Rating + 5Rating + 5 suprisingly stable

Pros: unbelievably stable people and COST less than 50 bucks.

Cons: none so far and i kinda feel like i wouldn't see one in a while.

Other THOUGHTS: I used to be all about buying big branded items but i cant even give good testimonies about them anymore.They either die on you or have poor tech support and documentation. These smaller and upcoming companies are doing all they can to get their well deserved attention and trust me this one sure did. Am no longer scared when i see their brand name and as a matter of fact i have ordered a couple of case fans from them to see how good they really are.
******************************************************************
Pros: Tons of plugs,SLI Ready, Dual Fan,very quite,awesome price.

Cons: There isnt any!
******************************************************************
Pros: No problem running six hard drives, a DVD drive, three SATA controller cards, five SATA-to-IDE bridges, a Geforce 4 MX 64MB video card, and a Socket A motherboard.

Cons: None so far.

Other Thoughts: This is a replacement for a three-year-old 400W power supply that keeled over while adding more hard drives to my file server. If the new PSU continues to run well, I'll get one for my gaming rig to replace a 340W PSU before I upgrade to a more power hungry video card.


29.00 << bucks & SLI certified, I have seen no other psu certified for under 70.00!Well if anonymous web buyer comments are testament enough...go for it.

I absolve myself of any and all complications down the road.

Hello all, thanks for takeing some time to look at my thread. Also thanks for your reponses on the matter!

I encountered a users PC today, i walked in on its second problematic boot. The PC was flashing on/off on the monitor. It appeared the monitor was displaying the windows booting image as it should, but it would go "off' and then back "on" at random. When it finally got to the windows desktop, it shutdown. I restarted it a second time and it flashed. It shutdown at the desktop. However, on the third reboot it booted to the desktop just fine. The user needed a reformat also, so i got it to boot to the windows install screen from the windows recovery CD. It managed to load all the files from the cd fine and sat at this screen with no issue. I had a few odd looking errors trying to get it to read from cd, but at the time i can not recall them. However, i got to this screen and sat there. Before counting i decided i should check for a PSU/video error. i opened the CASE and took a peek AROUND, but besides an dust that i sprayed out it looked fine. I SAW dust in the PSU sides so i sprayed that a bit to. (But not enough, as i'll get to.) So then i took the ram out and decided to let it sit for about ten minutes in case anything might have decided to hide in them. I put them back in, made sure they were in step and powered the pc back on. The pc seemed to come on, but i got no display. I turned it back off, the PC made a odd noise and no longer wished to boot. So i opened it once more, disconnected the power switch "ON" wire to the little group on the Mobo, stuck my screwdiver between the two power on input prongs (I'am sure there's a correct technical term, but i've ALWAYS called them prongs.) No boot. I reconnected the switch, no boot.

At this point i wanted to test the power SUPPLY but i discovered two things:

1. We did not have a multimeter/voltmeter on hand, and 2. We had only AT PSU in storage (Why i'll never know.) So i took the case apart, plugged the PSU into the wall, plugged the molex onto the motherboard and connected two different known good cd-roms on the device molexes. Fan on the PSU did not start, nethier did the cd-drives want to open. I stuck on a hard drive, put my ear to it with no spin. I took a lot at the PSU and then noticed a lot of dust still in the cracks, so i opened it and basically a square of dust collapsed and filled the air. So, maybe the dust was the issue, overheated or grounded? I got some of the AT power supplies and tested them (I did these tests with the same power cord as had been used to power the pc when it was booting - i could not find a spare cord.) the cd-roms did not want to open on them ethier but then worked fine when put back into the known working PC. Guess those must be dead as well. I rebuilt the machine, still no boot.


Would anyone else come to the same conclusion of a dead PSU? I plan on testing it with a different cable and a multimeter as well. Any other suggestions as to possible issues would be great Thanks!

edit: Just got a meter, volts go in they dont go out. Fiqures. A quick swap with a known working PSU of sufficient wattage would confirm, but it sounds like a new one would be the next place to go.The only problem with meter testing a PSU is it is not under load...

This is why i don't trust PSU testers either.

I recently purchased a new computer that has a Sata CONNECTED hard DRIVE in it. My motherboard has four sata ports and two ide ports. Does anyone know if I can add an IDE connected HDD as a slave drive or will that cause problems. ThanksThere is no master or slave for sata, There is no primary master for a SATA drive. Those types of settings (Primary/Secondary, Master/Slave), refer to IDE drives
The SATA is in its working, fine.... Go ahead and MAKE the ole IDE a slave you can.

Good Luck !Thanks. I'll give a shot.If the IDE has an OS on it make sure it's not included in the boot sequence in the BIOS otherwise the first time you boot it will ATTEMPT to boot the IDE INSTEAD of the SATA...

Hi!

I 've just bought a new web camera CANYON CN-WCAM313. I followed the instructions on how to install the drivers and at first everything seemed to be OK. I got a message saying: "The device is ready to use". But the camera didn't work. So I reinstalled the drivers and now when I plug the camera in I always get a message saying: "USB Device not recognized. One of the devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it." I'm using Windows Vista Ultimate. At first I thought the operating system was the problem but then when I tried installing it on another computer running Windows XP I got the same error message. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem?



Regards,
Alan
Have you checked Canon's website for the LATEST drivers?

Alan <>< And/or try the Scanner and Camera wizard in Control Panel.

What is the BENEFIT of BIOS update. I have intel 845 GVSR motherboard which supports 333 MHz DDR RAM. If I install 400 MHz RAM, my motherboard will not support it. I want to know if I update my BIOS then motherboard will support 400 MHz RAM or not?

THanksThis would only apply if the manufacturer wrote a specific BIOS update to make this happen. And since RAM is architecture-based hardware i doubt a BIOS flash could do this.

Provide a LINK to the BIOS update itself and we'll have a read...

p.s. Many a doorstop have been CREATED with an IMPROPER flash of the BIOS.Thanks

Here is the link:
http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d845gvsr/

I have been looking online for a new motherboard for my new toshiba laptop and i was wondering if the motherboard needs to be from toshiba and not any other company? I was also wondering if anyone could tell me a good place to buy a motherboard.eBay.
Buy a "PARTS" laptop from a trusted seller that has a problem other than the mobo.
Your model number, of course.
Be advised that this is a specialized field that requires above average skills.

I'm curious, what is the problem that you are having with your laptop ?
well, the problem is that i want my laptop to play new games and to do so i need a better graphics card. I know that desktops are better for gaming but i'm going on a long trip and so here I am.With the money you will spend trying to UPGRADE a laptop to a gaming machine you could get one HECK of a DESKTOP gaming machine...
You'll see once you start shopping around.You are not LIKELY to have success with this adventure. Sorry.This will not work, abandon it before you waste time, money and probably your laptop.
The only thing you can do is to buy a new laptop or desktop.
Sorry.I think i will take your advice.

Hi to all. Thanks again for your help.

I would like to upgrade my video card, but because my computer is old, I just wonder if you could tell me by looking at my system specifications below, if it would support a new video card? And if so, any suggestions about what kind/type? I'm not using it for gaming, just regular use (word processing, publishing, internet, email) Thanks for helping a girl out

Computer:
Operating System Microsoft Windows 2000 Professional
OS Service Pack Service Pack 4
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)

Motherboard:
CPU Type Intel Pentium IIIE, 600 MHZ (6 x 100)
Motherboard Name Intel Mount Prospect MP440BX (2 ISA, 4 PCI, 1 AGP, 3 DIMM, LAN)
Motherboard Chipset Intel 82440BX
System Memory 768 MB (SDRAM)
BIOS Type Phoenix (11/30/99)
Communication Port COMMUNICATIONS Port (COM1)
Communication Port Communications Port (COM2)
Communication Port ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

Display:
Video Adapter ATI TECHNOLOGIES Inc. RAGE 128 GL AGP (16 MB)
3D Accelerator ATI Rage128 GL
Monitor LG L1932TQ(Analog) [NoDB] (160640747)
That video card should be IDEAL for all the purposes you list. assuming it is functioning correctly. What kind of problems are you having that you think a video card will help?Thanks GX1,

I am not really having any problems, but I have noticed that I cannot run certain screensaveers (ie: the underwater marine and similair), the screensaver freezes up and I was unable to unfreeze w/out unplugging the pc.

Also, I have a brand new monitor (less than a year old) and it already has some "liquid" movement on the SCREEN. I didn't know if a better graphics/video card would help that out. I read the instruction manual for the monitor and have the refresh rate at the recommended level, and I believe I have the current drivers for it.

Most of my peripherals are new, and my hard drive/cd rom player and I just wanted to add a new video card if possible.

Thanks again. Happy Easter.Here's a good rebate deal:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2145957&CatId=318

well i have 3 HDDs hooked up in my computer, i just reinstalled WIN xp, and now XP is recognizing two of them, but it wont let me access them at all.

i look in hardware profiler and it SHOWS the two, and even says theres no problem with them, but im stumped as to how to access them.

if anyone has had this problem or knows some steps i should take please let me know ASAP ... thank you!We would need some details. Are these other drives blank? Were they password protected? How were they formatted and jumpered? Anything to work with?no, they're not blank, or PW protected.

jumpered as slaves, one possibly set as cable select which would make it the secondary master ... kinda hard for me to check, im using that computer at the moment Give This a Shoti cant take ownership of a file i cant find. Device Manager shows the HDDs asworking PROPERLY, but i cant find them in Windows Explorer or in Command Prompt even ...are there no more ideas? IVE tried a new IDE cable INCASE there was a problem with the old one, but its still doing the same thing!! this is really agrivating Quote from: gildnao on April 08, 2007, 10:36:57 AM

no, they're not blank, or PW protected.

jumpered as slaves, one possibly set as cable select which would make it the secondary master ... kinda hard for me to check, im using that computer at the moment

hey, i do have a problem installing/repjavascript:replaceText(' ', document.forms.postmodify.message);
Lips Sealedlacing CMOS battery..
this is what my mobo battery slot:



..where i should position the batery?
i also turned the battery arround but all position doesnt seem to work!

im using CR2032, 3V Maxell

please help...

thanks !What a CONFUSING post.

The battery goes in the circular receptacle under the clip. Make sure the CORRECT side is facing up. Did you look at the previous battery's + - orientation?man, i forgot its previous battery position...

so , would you like to help me?Try + side up. joseph0829 .....Quote

i also turned the battery arround but all position doesnt seem to work!

Hello ,

I recently installed a optical drive in my computer. It came from an OLD pc. It's a Aopen CRW5232 drive. It runs the default XP drivers, but they worked perfectly fine. The drive can't close the CD tray, even when empty. It closes, waits 2 SECS then reopens. Can anyone help me ?
It is most likely broken or something is obstructing the CD tray. Have you tried operating it without the IDE cable? Does that result in the same BEHAVIOUR?I've fixed the drive, IDE connecter wasnt fully pluged in. Plus, the drive wasnt aligned correctly in the tray Thx anyway RaptorTalk about a delayed response! Sheesh, no kidding.

Gateway Dekstop P4 420GR....figured it was the MOTHERBOARD since some capicators were blown. Replaced and same problem. Possible power supply problem? I also TRIED reseating MEMORY, video CARD, and took the battery out booted and same problem. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks! You don't say what the symptoms were

Alan <><

If you blew two perfectly good motherboards wth the same power supply it is certanly the prime suspect

I have a Radeon 9000. My friend wants to sell me his Nvidia Gforce4. He said its an upgrade.


He also is selling me 256k ram to install to up my motherboard to 512, which was all i really wanted.

He'll sell me both for 30.00, i kinda just want to buy the ram and KEEP my graphics card because im afraid to try to install the other card myself. Would it be worth it to just get both or just upgrade my ram and be done?heres the stuff about my computer, incase its needed

Computer:
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional
OS Service Pack Service Pack 2
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name STARRSCOMPUTER (starrs computer)
User Name starrs crap

Motherboard:
CPU Type AMD Athlon XP, 1466 MHz (11 x 133) 1700+
Motherboard Name Biostar M7VIQ (3 PCI, 1 AGP, 1 CNR, 2 DDR DIMM, Audio, Video)
Motherboard Chipset VIA VT8375 ProSavageDDR KM266
System Memory 256 MB (PC2100 DDR SDRAM)
BIOS Type Award (10/08/02)
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1)
Communication Port Printer Port (LPT1)

Display:
Video Adapter RADEON 9000 SERIES - Secondary (64 MB)
Video Adapter RADEON 9000 SERIES (64 MB)
3D Accelerator ATI Radeon 9000 (RV250)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter VIA AC'97 Enhanced Audio Controller

Storage:
IDE Controller VIA Bus Master IDE Controller
Floppy Drive Floppy disk drive
Disk Drive Maxtor 2B020H1 (20 GB, 5400 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)
Disk Drive WDC WD2500JB-00GVC0 (232 GB, IDE)
Optical Drive PLEXTOR CD-R PX-W2410A (24x/10x/40x CD-RW)
SMART Hard Disks Status OK

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 19532 MB (8331 MB free)
E: (NTFS) 238472 MB (206079 MB free)
Total Size 252.0 GB (209.4 GB free)

Input:
Keyboard Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
MOUSE Logitech-compatible Mouse PS/2

Network:
Network Adapter VIA Compatable Fast Ethernet Adapter (192.168.11.5)
Modem Communications cable between two computers
Modem SupraMAX 56i

Peripherals:
USB1 Controller VIA VT83C572 PCI-USB Controller
USB1 Controller VIA VT83C572 PCI-USB Controller
USB1 Controller VIA VT83C572 PCI-USB Controller
USB2 Controller VIA USB 2.0 Enhanced Host Controller
$30 for all is a bargain, assuming the RAM works in your machine. You could try both cards to see which you like better. (Be sure and uninstall the existing drivers before you reboot and install the others!) You didn't say how much RAM was on each video card.According to http://www.firingsquad.com/hardware/radeon9000/default.asp:

"With ATI’s unique positioning in the value space with RADOEN 9000 PRO, what does it compete with? Officially, the answer is NVIDIA’s GeForce4 MX series. The MSRP of the RADEON 9000 PRO matches up very closely with GeForce4 MX 440, while the RADEON 9000’s equivalent would be the GeForce4 MX 420."

So, there may be no significant difference between the two cards. Although it's still nice to have a spare vid card lying around...

As GX1_Man says if the RAM fits your machine it's a bargain...my friend told me to download the nvidia drivers, then swap out the cards. turn it back on. uninstall the ati drivers and install the nvidia drivers.

I just want my computer to run The Sims 2 better really. It takes like 40 mins before i can load 1 lot and actually play. If i want to switch lots it takes even longer and im better off just resetting my whole computer because itll be dragging the whole time. Will upgrading the ram at least help in that department?Oh, we can practically gaurantee adding RAM will help. As FAR as the video cards, you'll probably have to try the nVidia card and compare it to the ATI to know for sure which will work better, since they are of the same generation of video cards.

Keep in mind both cards are older cards and will not perform well with the more demanding games. okay, well then that makes sense. thank you guys.

I am wanting to buy a new computer, is a computer faster with more RAM memory, or bigger hard drive? I see them with a 512 memory with 100GB, and a 1024 memory with 100GB as well, which is faster? With the same size hard drive, does the bigger memory make it faster? Also, will I need a 1024 for Windows VISTA Home Basic, or will a 512 suffice?Microsoft recommends 1024MB of memory for Windows Vista. Assuming the hard drives run at the same rotational speed and are the same type drive (IDE vs. SATA), the drive size is not going to make a difference. RAM generally doesn't speed the machine up too MUCH, though it does help a bit. CPU is the main thing you will want to look at. A mixture of Clock Speed, Dual Core or Hyper Threading, L2 Cache, FSB, etc. will make the machine faster.

And I would advise going with microsofts advice and choosing the 1024mb at least for vista. It's very memory hungry. I tried it on a 512mb machine (this is Vista Ultimate) and it took 100% of the RAM. Although Home Basic will require less, if you plan on running many apps or large apps, I would definitely go with the 1024mb. You won't regret that.

Today I put my gathered parts - new motherboard, cup, fan, keyboard. mouse - into a new case.

The motherboard is an Intel D945GCCR and it has a dual core processor.
It says it as Intel Graphics Media Accelerator 950 and PCI Express X16 graphics connector.

The fan works, the lights light up, but no matter what I do I can't get the monitor to show anything. The monitor on light lights, and it makes that crackling sound when coming on, but nothing else. I tried another monitor and got the same thing.

I cannot load anything onto the new hard drive without a monitor. I'm stuck.

Do you think I have a faulty motherboard?


I have to video cards, and both are too long to fit into the slot.

SandyHave you tried opening your BIOS set up utility?
With your mobo manual in hand verify all settings.
I think this board has embedded graphics, so make sure that it is ENABLED for your initial startup.
Later, you can add a dedicated video card if desired.

If indeed, you have embedded video, make sure that your monitor is connected to the correct port.
Your mobo manual is your friend.How can I open my bios if I can't see what's happening?what type of Video cards are they? AGP, PCI-E or PCI?Quote from: stumble on April 08, 2007, 04:07:25 PM

Today I put my gathered parts - new motherboard, cup, fan, keyboard. mouse - into a new case.

The motherboard is an Intel D945GCCR and it has a dual core processor.
It says it as Intel Graphics Media Accelerator 950 and PCI Express X16 graphics connector.

The fan works, the lights light up, but no matter what I do I can't get the monitor to show anything. The monitor on light lights, and it makes that crackling sound when coming on, but nothing else. I tried another monitor and got the same thing.

I cannot load anything onto the new hard drive without a monitor. I'm stuck.

Do you think I have a faulty motherboard?


I have to video cards, and both are too long to fit into the slot.

Sandy

Strip the system of everything but the motherboard / video / RAM. Boot the system. Do you POST? If so, start adding one component at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system fails. Usually the last component installed is the culprit...though not always.

Alan <><

Can someone PLEASE help me with the power supply wiring? I have an eMachine T2824, which recently wouldn't turn on. I've got it torn apart, checked wirings with digital volt meter, everything seems good, but...still nothing. I've tried plugging it in with another computer's cords...nothing. When I have it all open, and plug it in, the Power Button on front lights up, but it just will not turn on!! I really don't know what else to do. Now for the "wiring" part. The part I need help with is the wiring coming from the power supply box. There are 2 black, 1 red, and 1 yellow wires that go into Power Supply Connectors labled P2 and P3, then another set with Connectors labled P5, P6, and P7. These two sets plug into the 2 hard drives. The P7 connector is a very small one (compared to the other four) and this is the one that I don't know where it plugs in to. I have contacted eMachines 4 times, but noone seems to be able to find any information about it. If I could even find a schematic for how, and where, things are supposed to be plugged in inside this machine, I'd be happy. I tore down an older eMachine, but of course, nothing's the same. Can anyone please help me with this? I sure would appreciate it.
Thank you,
RebeccaFrom your description it sounds like the power connector for the floppy drive.eMachine power supplies are notoriously poor, and the readings do not measure it under load.

Is that the original PSU? Do you have another known good one of sufficient wattage to swap in to test?

What happened prior to all of this?Quote from: Buscrew on April 12, 2007, 06:12:04 AM

From your description it sounds like the power connector for the floppy drive.

From your description it sounds like the power connector for the floppy drive.

Quote from: Buscrew on April 12, 2007, 06:12:04 AM

From your description it sounds like the power connector for the floppy drive.

Yeah, take a look here: http://www.fonerbooks.com/r_power.htm. See anything that looks like what you have there?

Quote from: Buscrew on April 12, 2007, 06:12:04 AM

From your description it sounds like the power connector for the floppy drive.

No, Buscrew, it's for the CD-RW/DVD-ROM Drive
Do you have any suggestions?
THank you

Quote from: RebeccaD on April 12, 2007, 12:01:01 PM

Quote from: Buscrew on April 12, 2007, 06:12:04 AM

From your description it sounds like the power connector for the floppy drive.

No, Buscrew, it's for the CD-RW/DVD-ROM Drive
Do you have any suggestions?
THank you

This reply makes no sense. In your original post, your basic question was this point: "The P7 connector is a very small one (compared to the other four) and this is the one that I don't know where it plugs in to."

Buscrew made a logical comment, and then you reply by saying "it's for the CD-RW/DVD-ROM Drive". So, you don't know what it's for, but you do know what it's for.

Perhaps a basic point about the various power cords coming from a power supply needs to be stated. That is, power supplies are made to work in a wide variety of computer configurations, or computers with different hardware components. So, it's not at all uncommon to have one or more unused power cords because they simply aren't needed in a particular computer.

If that cord is for a floppy drive and you have no floppy drive, then you can just ignore it.

The problem had nothing to do with me know what it was for, it was about WHERE the wires/connectors should be plugged in.

The computer was working fine one morning, and then my husband turned it off. He went back to it that evening, but it simply would not turn on. After I tried plugging it in where my other computer is, to test the power, and it still wouldn't turn on, I opened it up, then plugged it in to test it. The power button light does turn on, but the button simply will not turn it on. The information about the power connections came from eMachines. So...do you have any suggestions about this situation?

I recently bought a western digital 250gb ide hard drive.I made this my slave drive.The problem i have is all music or movies that i have downloaded to that drive jump,or play just a little slow.I have bought a new faster ide cabel.I have tried running from the motherboard to the c:drive and my new E:drive in the middle as the slave and also tried the same way with the cd burner ide cabel.The C: drive works perfectly,it's 40gb with about 10gb free.I have also tried my 250gb hard drive in a friends computer and it works fine!Any help would be great,and i'm not very computer litterate so try and keep it simple please.Thanks!!I think more INFO about your system might be helpful. Processor, motherboard, RAM, video card, etc.? Your OS? What protections are you using for viruses and spyware? If you play music or movies from an optical (CD/DVD) drive, does it play smooth?My slave drive once got really slow and also noisy, I thought it was dying but it passed all tests except for the speed tests. At the same time I had to reinstall my OS for other reasons, the reinstallation of the OS FIXED the problem SOMEHOW.
I think one of the default settings for the drive got changed somehow and reloading the OS reset everything to default operation.
Here is some links to similar problems- http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&q=slow+harddrive&meta=

This could be it- http://www.overclockers.com/articles1161/Right click both IDE controllers in Device Manager and make sure that HDD has not dropped back into PIO mode...it should be DMA or Ultra DMA.
This is caused by consecutive system errors...I have a 1100 celeron d processor325 (2.53ghz, 256k cache)
512mb memory
windows XP
I checked and i'm running in DMA mode, although on my primary C: where it says "Current transfer mode" it says PIO mode and there's no option to change it! I also played a movie on my C:drive and that also seems to be running slow now!Should i uninstall the primary and re-install?Or should i throw my PC of my balcony?To enable DMA mode using the Device Manager

1.


Open Device Manager.

2.


Double-click IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers to display the list of controllers and channels.

3.


Right-click the icon for the channel to which the device is connected, select Properties, and then click the Advanced Settings tab.

4.


In the Current Transfer Mode drop-down box, select DMA if Available if the current setting is "PIO Only."
If the drop-down box already shows "DMA if Available" but the current transfer mode is PIO, then the user must toggle the settings. That is:
•

Change the selection from "DMA if available" to PIO only, and click OK.
•

Then repeat the steps above to change the selection to DMA if Available.same THING happens to me but this happens with one of my cd rom drives. i have a dual core 3.2 gig and if i install games or transfer anything, my computer slows down to a crawl. or even if i listen to music in the background while i browse the web its all crunchy and slows down. ive tried that device manager thing but even if i select "DMA mode if available" the box below it which is current is stuck in PIO mode no matter what i do. is this some kind of DRIVER or hardware problem?The other option to repairing this is a bit more involved...

Start a new thread and supply info on your system, OS etc.....

the pages START scrolling erratically by them selves without me USING the mouse. does anyone know how to fix this?Looks like a LEFT over arpil fools program

How many times has that happened to you? Is this your first time experiencing it?matlock2666 ....... What kind of a mouse are you using ?


dl65 Quote from: dl65 on April 05, 2007, 10:46:58 PM

matlock2666 ....... What kind of a mouse are you using ?

Hi,


I have a P4 2.4 GHZ 845GVSR and i m thinking of buying a buying a Graphics card.. and i got this problem... my system properties shows that it has a Intel Graphics inbuilt in the motherboard and one of my friend SAID that i wont be able to all a graphics card..

But i think he is wrong and can u PLEASE find out and say.. me..
You can add a graphics card.You appear to be LIMITED to PCI slot.

You don't have an AGP slot.Buy a new motherboard, PCI is not suitable for gaming cards.
Look in the FAQ section for my GPU FAQ for more information.

I have a P4 2.4G Intel 845GVSR with nothing much a 256MB ram..

I plan change my motherboard and processor for gaming reasons and speed.. and hardware problems.. can u suggest a mid range motherboards and processors.. or if the processors or motherboard can be still with some graphics cards.. then

suggest me.......

What sort of games do you play?
And what's your budget?
And what PSU do you have? Power is important.what vid card do you have and more details plz like what mobo do you have and what can it support maybe you can update you vid card and some more ram and be goodi first need to get off my problem that i have posted earlier.. thats my system starts beeping and it never goes fine and the next is like geeting a blue screen and that has DRIVEN me crazy. i like games like POP3.. SIMS... GTA... role playing all games.. and All those race and sports.. huh.. i play all games that makes me feel its hard to finish...



suggest me na.... my idea is to sell my old things.. for new faster and good graphics... a mid range.. system.. a total budget for

Processor
Motherboard
Graphics card

can be between 200$ - 300$

Processor: P4 3.2 Ghz. GREAT Value for the price, no need to go DUAL Core when these already do all that is needed.
HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116197


Motherboard: Asus P5N-E SLI. Nice, Cheap, SLI Board. Though it's nortorious for being very picky with its memory.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131142


Graphics card: GeForce 7600GT. Very fast card for the money. (Plays BF2/2142, etc. on full settings!) These BOARDS are able to handle pretty much anything right now. You may even want to buy two for SLI!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130073



Btw, you wont be able to run it on 256mb of course i have that card.. it good tooNice build you propose there Eredell.
A RAM upgrade will be necessary to take advantage of this as you said, I'd say 1GB would be sensible.almost a mini to play most games now at lil or no lagQuote from: Calum on March 29, 2007, 11:13:06 AM

And what PSU do you have? Power is important.

Today I went into setup when my computer was starting up, and went to the CPU usage thing. It said that the minimum was 100 and the max was 132. It was at 100, so I typed in 132 and pressed enter. (I know it was stupid ) Then I saved changes and pressed exit. Then the screen turned off. I pressed the restart button, and the computer makes all the noises and such, but no image comes up on screen. It has nothing to do with the cable not being plugged in because it you unplug it, is says "Check video cable"

Is there anyway of entering setup and changing it back, maybe even doing it through a network? PLEASE HELP!!!!NEVER AND I MEAN NEVER do anything without thinking about it first.

It is INTERESTING that your computer is doing this. First, Disconnect all of the computer cables and reconnect them. If it doesn't work, reset the BIOS jumper (you would have to open up your computer and read your manual to do this)

HOPEFULLY, this should fix the prob.The worse case scenorio is you have fried your CPU and will need to by a new processor. Never change SETTINGS unless you are AWARE of the risks.

i recently REINSTALLED windows and installed all the drivers needed, including audio drivers, but my computer still doesnt recognize my audio device. :'(help PLEASE?not entirely sure, but have you downloaded SP2? If so, how "new" is the sound card? Maybe you can search for XP compatible drivers.

or the even more strangely obvious thats over looked, is to check your sound settings uner controll panel (the speaker icon) and see what your default audio settings are, sometimes a reinstall sets those to default, and you need to select the card to use, or it even may be on mute.

im not real sure what else, thats all i know to chk. Hope it helps or leads you to the answer.How did you determine these were the correct drivers and where are they from ? ?i have a drivers CD with my os cd that automatically detects WHATEVER hardware u have that doesnt have its drivers installed, and installs the drivers for it. i also dont have sp2, i have yet to download thatDo that next and try re-installing the drivers...some were written specifically for systems with SP2 installed///alright ill give it a shot and tell u how it went*censored* no luck. is there maybe a BIOS setting that can enable it Why don't we start with the motherboard make/model and the audio device. If you don't know you can run Everest Home.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

If you didn't disable the audio in the BIOS that shouldn't be the issue. What caused the need for a reinstall?i installed a new video card and everything GOT messed up with the drivers so i was just like eff that and reinstalled windowsthe audio device is a creative soundblaster pci and the motherboard is an intel oneCreative made a ton of different soundcards and Intel made even more different MBoards...follow GX1_Man's advice posted above.okay specifically the motherboard is Intel Rexburg D845GRG but i cant find out the specific audio card name cuz since the computer wont detect it its not listed in everest

Ok so over the last couple of weeks my parents have been telling me how their computer (since I have my own), has been rebooting randomly, I was gonna look into this but never got around to it. I should let you know that this happened before and it was because the CPU was getting to HOT and so I took off the side panels and everything was working fine. Silly me I put the side panels back on but I THINK the symptoms were there before I put them back on. Anyway I took them off to see if that was what it was but no luck.

Basically what happens is when I turn the computer on, the CPU and System fan turn on and spin just fine so Im hoping the power supply is ok. The Activity LED in the front is solid (not blinking) and the Power LED is off. I have tried resetting the BIOS (CMOS jumper reset thingy) but unless I didn't leave it the the other position long enough, that didnt work. Also I was checking out the CPU/CPUFan, I noticed that it was a little wobbly. Anyway any help would be appreciated

Oh a few specs: P4VXASD Motherboard made by ECS and P4 CPU (not sure what one exactly) If you need any other info just email me or post here

Thanks
Josh

PS I'm the one that is USED to getting the call from family etc so any help will be greatly greatly appreciatedMost probably a heat issue from the info you have given...a wobbly CPU fan is definitely NOT a good thing....get a can of compressed air and clean out the inside as best you can.
Next examine the CPU fan to see if it is not seated properly or if there is a broken hold down.
If it is broken it needs to be replaced immediately if they don't want a dead machine on their hands. I'd suggest to them to not use it until this issue is resolved.

If i'm not mistaken the P4's use a plastic hold down cage for the CPU fan...these can be replaced but it involves removing the MBoard to do so...First off thanks so much for the reply. I got the MB out of the case and OH yea the fan/heatsink definently was not sitting on the CPU correctly. I have included some pics (sorry about the QUALITY in advance)



CPU with fans and heat sink off, the fan unit gets cliped on to those black things with metal clips




Well theres your problem...Right?



Horrible pic but hopefully you can see how it is broken

Anyway we are gonna run out tomarrow and buy a new fan. And I was just wondering if you guys think that this was the real problem. Obviously it was a problem but I would think that the computer would at least start up for a min or two before it got too hot and shut off again. Just wondering if you guys thinks this is the only problem

Thanks
Josh

P.S. CPU goes in and out of slot with zero pressure
A Pentium CPU will shut down to avoid damage, in this case probably a second or two is all it would take.

It looks like there is smoking beind done around the computer also. My problem is along the same line. Last week my computer did a total Shut-Down without warning, and since then it will not even boot up.

I did a complete BIOS Re-Start ( removed the battery for 2 Hrs. ) and changed out the RAMs. I pulled all external cables and still nothing. The HD light comes on, but the power-light does not - even though all fans are working. This is an out of the blue thing - soooo I am at a dead end.

Motherboard: Intel DQ965GF
CPU: Pentium D 945

I am guessing that the processor is shot - and this computer is only 4 months old and was working up till the Shut-down perfectly. Any help on an Easter Sunday??? PLEASE....Ahh no dice, still doesnt work. Im think it is probably either the processor, motherboard, or powersupply. Any ideas on how to check these with out taking it somewhere/free? Or is it still maybe something else?I've also just noticed that when i disconnect the ATA for the hard drive, the activity LED does not go on. Is this normal or could this be a sign the hard drive is somehow to blame. Im thinking of just sticking the HD in my computer and see what happensQuote from: JoshT on April 08, 2007, 07:39:42 PM

I've also just noticed that when i disconnect the ATA for the hard drive, the activity LED does not go on. Is this normal or could this be a sign the hard drive is somehow to blame. Im thinking of just sticking the HD in my computer and see what happens

Hello, it's me again.
Ok, same situation as my last post where I reformatted my hard drive for the first time.
This time, though, I installed my PCI sound card, and at first it worked fine, then i restarted my computer and it's not anymore. It's a diamond Xtreme sound 5.1 sound card. It's also actually partially working because the centre speakers are working fine, and the back and front speakers are actually working, but i have to turn it up to full blast to hear them well. Any ideas?Any problems noted in Device Manager? Did you make any adjustments in Control Panel/Sounds and Multimedia? Try that. Device Manager says the device is working properly and is enabled. As for control panel, since it's a pci sound card, i switched the Audio Sound Playback Default Device to Xtreme Sound PCI Audio Device and checked off only to use default deviceDid you disable the onboard audio chip in your bios ?
My basic sound blaster audio se card has a test where it runs through the speaker setup you had choose, will yours do this and it runs an audio test to your 5.1 specs?
i didn't disable it in bios, not entirely sure how to do that.
There are two types of sound test i know about as well. One was in the SOFTWARE the soundcard came with and that would work even when it wasn't set as the computer's sound device. It's not working, at least to the same extent all the other sounds aren't working.
The other test i know about is in dx diag, and once again, it's not working any more or less than all the other music.Quote from: Anythingwill on April 08, 2007, 02:19:32 PM

i didn't disable it in bios, not entirely sure how to do that.
There are two types of sound test i know about as well. One was in the software the soundcard came with and that would work even when it wasn't set as the computer's sound device. It's not working, at least to the same extent all the other sounds aren't working.
The other test i know about is in dx diag, and once again, it's not working any more or less than all the other music.

I need some help. I have a Gateway I bought in 2002. It runs on a Pentium 4 2.0 GHz, 384 MB of RAM, Windows XP Home Edition (2002). The graphics card is Intel 82845G Graphics Controller. When purchased it came with the standard EV700 17" CRT monitor. About a year ago, that monitor appeared to start to break. I had a DOT in the middle ofthe screen and it flickered. Then, it was like the entire image had a green/yellowish TINT.

So, assuming the monitor had gone bad, last week I purchased a new monitor. I even upgraded to a 19" flat panel LCD. I bought it off Tiger Direct. It is made by I-Inc and is model CY199D.

Right out of the box, it seems to be having some trouble also. It is a "plug and play" monitor that didn't require any special drivers. It is connected with the standard blue VGA cable.

That same yellow/green tint covers the image at times. Sometimes everything appears NORMAL, at other times it is totally tinted. What is weird is that when I pull the monitor control panel up (not from the COMPUTER but from the buttons on the monitor) it always appears normal. Even if the image sent from the computer is tinted, the monitor controls image is normal.

Do you think this means my video driver (the Intel Graphics card) is bad? I would call Intel for help, but on their website when I look up this graphics controller, they say they no longer make these nor provide any type of telephone or internet support for them (thanks a lot!).

I am frustrated because I cannot figure out if the monitor I just bought is bad and I need to return it or if my computer video card is bad?

Any ideas?

Thanks you so very much!First thing I would do, take your new monitor to a friends house/ work, plug it in a good puter and make sure its ok ... before RMA-ing Hold tight for a good answer to your main* question...

I am fairly certain it is a graphics card problem, since you've had the same problem with two monitors, and the monitor's on-screen display is fine (which is not generated by the graphics card).

One solution would be to buy a new graphics card. If you are not gaming, you can get a basic card for your needs very cheaply (under $40). They won't be any good for gaming, but your Intel card wasn't anyway

If you have a friend who can lend you a compatable graphics card, you can test to see if that fixes the problem. Remeber to plug the VGA cable into the new slot.I agree with Neil on this ...borrowing a card temporarily will tell you if the problem is the card or the monitor itself.

p.s. Try the card in a different slot also...Thanks guys. I was thinking it was the card. I have recently moved and do not know anyone around that I can borrow a card from or even take the monitor to test.

I am thinking about just getting the new video card. Any suggestions?

I don't play any games on the computer. Mainly use Word, Excel, Outlook and surf the internet. Occasionally I will use the internet for short video clips or pictures, but nothing that I think would require a super video card.

Thanks for any advice on the card. Should I stick with VGA or go digital with the card? The LCD has both VGA and a DVI jack.

The type of video card will be determined by the type of graphics slots you have available- PCI and or AGP. With no model number or this basic information we cannot advise further. DVI seems overkill for your purposes.However, some fairly low cost cards have both VGA and DVI. Here's a PCI card with both:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161010Sorry about that. The computer is a Gateway 500SE desktop. In my original info, I have written that it comes with an AGP slot (does 3/4 length mean anything?).

I also found the following regarding my computer......

Under "Integrated Video" it lists: AGP connector supporting 1x, 2x, and 4x AGP cards (1.5 V only) or an AGP Digital Display (ADD) card

Under "Expansion Capabilities" it lists: Three PCI 2.2 compliant add-in peripheral slots and Support for Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI), Plug and Play, and SMBIOS

With that info, any recommendatons.

Thank you so much!Quote from: georgiaguy on April 09, 2007, 02:15:50 PM

Sorry about that. The computer is a Gateway 500SE desktop. In my original info, I should (inserted) have written that it comes with an AGP slot (does 3/4 length mean anything?).

...I have written that it comes with an AGP slot (does 3/4 length mean anything?).

I also found the following regarding my computer......

Under "Integrated Video" it lists: AGP connector supporting 1x, 2x, and 4x AGP cards (1.5 V only) or an AGP Digital Display (ADD) card

Under "Expansion Capabilities" it lists: Three PCI 2.2 compliant add-in peripheral slots and Support for Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI), Plug and Play, and SMBIOS

OK - busted into the 'puter.

I have 2 available PCI slots and one AGP slot.

So if I decide to replace the video card, which is best? It sounds like AGP is better/faster.

And by the way, just so I understand this right. I don't really have an old card that I will have to remove, right? It is integrated onto the motherboard, right?

I want to ask why i heard some disturbing noise on my computer VOLTAGE regulator... its BRAND is GIANT POWER G-500LC.. please help does this means that my computer voltage regulator is merely dead? or what?

please help! It's known as a power supply...and judging by the brand name it sounds like a low budget Chinese knockoff...
How old is it and what type of machine is this in ? ?

Any noise from those units is not a good sign at all and you risk further damage the more you use it.I agree with Patio. A noisy power supply is trouble in the MAKING. It can ruin any COMPONENT in the computer. Replace it very soon. It could be just a bearing in the fan but why take the chance?

Alan <>< Quote from: joseph0829 on April 11, 2007, 01:41:42 AM

I want to ask why i heard some disturbing noise on my computer voltage regulator... its brand is GIANT POWER G-500LC

Quote from: joseph0829 on April 11, 2007, 01:41:42 AM

I want to ask why i heard some disturbing noise on my computer voltage regulator... its brand is GIANT POWER G-500LC

Junk. More junk for cheap.

lol, whats so hard to understand?
i dont save up MONEY...as in when i GET the moeny i will spend it...but you guys have convinced me to save up

how much does a decent BOARD cost right now that will support a conroe and my P4 (ill have to buy them seperatly like months diference, lets SEE how cheap they get

and if i do get a new board will it support my current memory? 1GB X2 PC3200 400mhzThis should help: http://www.worldofstock.com/closeups/BCO2126.php ill get me one of those

Hi,

I bought a LEXMARK X5450 all in one printer in February because my all in one HP printer fax feature stopped working. The printer cartridges for the lexmark are #32 and 33.

I have Windows XP PRO and use Mozilla Firefox most of the time.

My last HP printer cartidges were around $75.00 (black+colour) and I thought that was a lot, but the ink lasted for ages - it seemed to print hundreds of pages.

Anyway, I bought the new printer because the salesman at FUTURE Shop assured me that the ink was not used that much in this new printer. Boy, was he wrong. I'm going back there tomorrow to talk with them, but I'm out of luck because they only have a 14 DAY guarantee with the printer.

Imagine this - I just put in a new black printer cartridge tonight and started printing a 101 page document, in black and white. I'm at around page 70 now and I just got a "low black ink warning" - it's almost out of ink ! The lexmark cartridges cost around $50.00, but if I use 2 a week, it will cost me a fortune to run it each year. The HP would have printed 10 or more - 100 page documents.

How can this company get away with this ? This is nuts !

Is there anything that can be done to make the printer work better, or am I out of luck ?

More importantly, what is the best printer to buy - one where the cartridges last for a long time - inkjet should be fine - just for general printing and copying. A fax feature would be nice, but it's not necessary. I'm guessing HP again ?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Cartridge numbers 32 & 33 are low YIELD, for a small premium you can buy cartridge numbers 34 & 35 which are high yield and therefore last longer.

I built my own computer a while back (Windows XP Professional SP2) but I just now realized that I can only burn data to CDs, not DVDs. I ordered a Samsung DVD +/- R/RW (MODEL number TS-H542A). I READ the manual on http://www.samsung.com/Products/CDDVD_Writer/DVDRRW/CDDVD_Writer_DVDRRW_TS_H542A.htm and I installed the firmware and the drivers. But, the WEBSITE said that I NEEDED to INSTALL Nero Express to write files to a DVD. Does this mean that I have to buy additional software to burn files to a DVD? Could Alcohol 120% work too, or do I have to get Nero?

Please help!You will need to have some sort of burning software. That is why you probably paid less than the retail box price. Nero is good, but there are some free options. Look in the FAQ section under Essential Software.

i dont know what all this means but i do know i have a good copy of nero and firmware is updated im thinking it could be in the bios

5c80001080100000000754511058

Windows XP 5.1
IA32
WinAspi: -
ahead WinASPI: File 'C:\Program Files\Nero\Nero 7\Core\Wnaspi32.dll': Ver=2.0.1.74, size=164112 bytes, created 02/11/2004 12:54:32

NT-SPTI used
Nero Version: 7.0.1.4
Internal Version: 7, 0, 1, 4
(Nero Express)
Recorder: Version: RL00 - HA 1 TA 0 - 7.0.1.4
Adapter driver: HA 1
Drive buffer : 2048kB
Bus Type : via Inquiry data (1) -> ATAPI, detected: ?
Connected to MMC as unknown drive with class-nr : 1
Drive is autodetected - recorder class: Std. MMC recorder
CD-ROM: Version: RL00 - HA 1 TA 0 - 7.0.1.4
Adapter driver: HA 1

=== Scsi-Device-Map ===
DiskPeripheral : WDC WD400BB-32DKA0 77.0 viadsk Port 0 ID 0 DMA: Off
CdRomPeripheral : HL-DT-STDVDRAM GSA-H42N RL00 viadsk Port 1 ID 0 DMA: Off

=== CDRom-Device-Map ===
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-H42N D: CDRom0
=======================

AutoRun : 1
Excluded drive IDs:
WriteBufferSize: 74448896 (0) Byte
ShowDrvBufStat : 1
BUFE : 0
Physical memory : 511MB (523804kB)
Free physical memory: 31MB (32396kB)
Memory in use : 93 %
Uncached PFiles: 0x0
Use Inquiry : 1
Global Bus Type: default (0)
Check supported media : Disabled (0)

11.4.2007
ISO compilation
20:54:04#1 Text 0 File Isodoc.cpp, Line 6411
Iso DOCUMENT burn settings
------------------------------------------
Determine maximum speed : FALSE
Simulate : TRUE
Write : FALSE
Finalize CD : FALSE
Multisession : TRUE
Multisession type: : Start multisession
Burning mode : DAO
Mode : 1
ISO Level : 2 (Max. of 31 chars)
Character set : ISO 9660
Joliet : TRUE
Allow pathdepth more than 8 directories : TRUE
Allow more than 255 characters in path : TRUE
Write ISO9660 ;1 file extensions : TRUE

20:54:04#2 Text 0 File ThreadedTransfer.cpp, Line 525
ReadBuffer-Pipe got 262144KB of Memory

20:54:04#3 Text 0 File Reader.cpp, Line 124
Reader running

20:54:04#4 Text 0 File Writer.cpp, Line 113
Writer D: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-H42N running

20:54:04#5 ISO9660GEN -11 File Geniso.cpp, Line 3312
First writeable address = 0 (0x00000000)

20:54:04#6 Text 0 File Burncd.cpp, Line 3342
Turn on Disc-At-Once, using DVD media

20:54:04#7 Text 0 File DlgWaitCD.cpp, Line 279
Last possible write address on media: 2298495 (510:46.45, 4489MB)
Last address to be written: 112447 ( 24:59.22, 219MB)

20:54:04#8 Text 0 File DlgWaitCD.cpp, Line 291
Write in overburning mode: NO (enabled: CD)

20:54:04#9 Text 0 File DlgWaitCD.cpp, Line 2578
Recorder: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-H42N, Media type: DVD-R
Disc Manufacturer: UME01 -
Disc Application Code: 64, Disc Physical Code: 193

20:54:04#10 Text 0 File DlgWaitCD.cpp, Line 458
>>> Protocol of DlgWaitCD activities: <<<
=========================================

20:54:04#11 Text 0 File ThreadedTransferInterface.cpp, Line 847
Setup items (after recorder preparation)
0: TRM_DATA_MODE1 ()
2 indices, index0 (150) not provided
original disc pos #0 + 112448 (112448) = #112448/24:59.23
relocatable, disc pos for caching/writing not required/ required, no patch infos
-> TRM_DATA_MODE1, 2048, config 0, wanted index0 0 blocks, length 112448 blocks [D: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-H42N]
--------------------------------------------------------------

20:54:04#12 Text 0 File ThreadedTransferInterface.cpp, Line 1059
Prepare recorder [D: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-H42N] for write in CUE-sheet-DAO
DAO infos:
==========
MCN: ""
TOCType: 0x00; Session Closed, disc not fixated
Tracks 1 to 1:
1: TRM_DATA_MODE1, 2048/0x00, FilePos 0 0 230293504, ISRC ""
DAO layout:
===========
__Start_|____Track_|_Idx_|_CtrlAdr_|_RecDep__________
0 | lead-in | 0 | 0x41 | 0x00
0 | 1 | 0 | 0x41 | 0x00
0 | 1 | 1 | 0x41 | 0x00
112448 | lead-out | 1 | 0x41 | 0x00

20:54:04#13 Text 0 File SCSIPassThrough.cpp, Line 36
SPTILockVolume - completed successfully for FCTL_LOCK_VOLUME

20:54:05#14 Phase 24 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1725
Caching of files started

20:54:05#15 Text 0 File Burncd.cpp, Line 4176
Cache writing successful.

20:54:05#16 Phase 25 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1725
Caching of files completed

20:54:05#17 Phase 32 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1725
Simulation started at 8x (11,080 KB/s)

20:55:15#18 Text 0 File ThreadedTransferInterface.cpp, Line 2685
Verifying disc position of item 0 (relocatable, disc pos, no patch infos, orig at #0): write at #0

20:55:15#19 Text 0 File DVDR.cpp, Line 2580
Recording mode: Sequential Recording Mode for Multisession

20:55:15#20 Text 0 File MMC.cpp, Line 21611
Set BUFE: Buffer underrun protection -> ON

20:55:15#21 Text 0 File DVDR.cpp, Line 2735
Start write address at LBA 0
DVD high compatibility mode: Yes

20:55:15#22 Text 0 File Cdrdrv.cpp, Line 8411
---- DVD Structure: Physical Format Information (00h) ----
Layer: 0, Address: 0 (0 h), AGID: 0; Length: 2050
Book Type: DVD-R (2), Part Version: 2.0x (5), Extended Part Version: 0.0 (0)
Disc Size: 120 mm, Maximum Rate: (F h)
Number of Layers: 1, Track Path: Parallel Track Path (PTP), Layer Type: recordable
Linear Density: 0,267 um/bit, Track Density: 0,74 um/track
Starting Physical Sector Number of Data Area: 30000 h (DVD-ROM, DVD-R/-RW, DVD+R/+RW)
End Physical Sector Number of Data Area: 26127F h
End Sector Number in Layer 0: 0 h (LBN: FFFD0000 h, 4193920 MB)
Data in Burst Cutting Area (BCA) does not exist
Start sector number of the current Border-Out: 2FE10 h
Start sector number of the next Border-In: 2FFA0 h
Media Specific [16..63]:
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 - 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
00 02 FE 10 00 02 FF A0 - 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 - 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................

20:55:27#23 SPTI -31 File SCSIPassThrough.cpp, Line 323
D: CdRom0: SCSIStatus(x00) WinError(87) NeroError(-31)
Sense Key: 0x00 (KEY_NO_SENSE)
Sense Code: 0x00
Sense Qual: 0x00
CDB Data: 0x2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 00
Sense Area: 0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
Buffer x05590000: LEN x10000
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

20:55:27#24 SPTI -31 File SCSIPassThrough.cpp, Line 323
D: CdRom0: SCSIStatus(x00) WinError(87) NeroError(-31)
Sense Key: 0x00 (KEY_NO_SENSE)
Sense Code: 0x00
Sense Qual: 0x00
CDB Data: 0x2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 00
Sense Area: 0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
Buffer x0459e000: Len x10000
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

20:55:27#25 Text 0 File MMC.cpp, Line 19278
Writer-Buffer for D: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-H42N reduced to 32768Bytes

20:55:27#26 SPTI -31 File SCSIPassThrough.cpp, Line 323
D: CdRom0: SCSIStatus(x00) WinError(87) NeroError(-31)
Sense Key: 0x00 (KEY_NO_SENSE)
Sense Code: 0x00
Sense Qual: 0x00
CDB Data: 0x2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 00 00
Sense Area: 0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
Buffer x0453ba00: Len x8000
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0x00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

20:55:27#27 CDR -31 File Writer.cpp, Line 302
Buffer too large
D: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-H42N

20:55:27#28 Text 0 File ThreadedTransfer.cpp, Line 228
all writers idle, stopping conversion

20:55:27#29 Text 0 File DVDR.cpp, Line 2978
EndDAO: Last written address was -1

20:55:27#30 Phase 133 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1725
Writing short lead-out

20:55:27#31 Phase 34 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1725
Simulation failed at 8x (11,080 KB/s)


Existing drivers:

Registry Keys:
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\WinLogon\AllocateCDROMs : 0 (Security Option)

The first step is to uninstall and reinstall the software after a reboot.

If that doesn't fix it, try the component in another machine to isolate where the problem REALLY is.

I just want to MAKE sure that i will have all the cables i need when i PURCHASE this:

1.http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2948216&sku=M452-2850%20A
2.http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2143105&sku=THD-250A2
3.http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1089089&sku=ULT31753

Are there any other cables i would need to PUT this all together. As i have said before i want to be very confident that i have all the parts because this is my first build, and thankyou for your responces!

The power SUPPLY will have the power cables for all devices. I believe the package will SURELY include IDE cables, etc. but if you want to be absolutely sure, call them at 800.800.8300.

Hey, I'm trying to figure out why my computer keeps freezing and crashing on me.

Normally it only happens when I play Half-Life: Counter-Strike, but it has happened when I've played flash games and some ROMS. I built my own computer. My friend and I thought it was something with the graphic card, its a NVIDIA GeForce 6600 GT. So we sent it back, and they sent us a new one, but it didn't fix the problem. Then I was thinking that it only does it when a sound is playing, so I went and bought a sound card to get it off the one that was on the mother board, its a Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE. But thats not working. I'm frustrated and confused as *censored*. Because it does it at random times. I could play Counter-Strike for 4 hours without a problem, then for 10 minutes and it'd freeze. HELP!Need...more...info...gasp

OPERATING system / antivirus & antispyware protection / service packs installed / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software / what's running in the background / swapped out the RAM?


Alan <>< Operating System: Windows XP SP2

Antivirus: AVG

I don't recall when it first started happening, I just know my friend who built it screwed up the processor the first time so he had to buy another to replace it (bent on of the pins).

I haven't installed anything new software wise that has seeemed to AFFECT it.

Running int he background I normally only leave open AIM, AVG and steam (the program used to run Counter-Strike), besides the normal system processes.

Other then this one problem, the computer runs fine.*bump for help*More...info...still...needed.....

Power SUPPLY, excessive heat and bad RAM are possibilities. Did you ever test the RAM? Free download at www.memtest86.com. Run each stick for an hour or so, then all together.

System temps? Try TAKING the sider cover off and blowing a fan directly in there to see if it helps.

What make and model power supply? Wattage? How old?

Etc.I had regular screen freezes and read somewhere that it may be due to bad RAM, then remembered putting in an extra RAM card some months before. I removed and re-inserted the RAM card and this solved my problem. Perhaps there was poor contact and the re-insertion improved the contact

Hey guys I'll cut to the chase: Today I inserted a GIG chip into the laptop (inspiron 9100) and also cleaned out the fans.When I booted it up I got a message saying ram was detected.Now the problem happens when i log on: the cpu usage is up in the 90's when I click on SOMETHING and the fans are constantly whirring, sounding like a hover! When I let the pc idle the task manager is empty but the fans are STILL whirring,then I click on something the usage flies back up.Whatever program I run seems to use excessive amounts of cpu.Example is when i run wmp it could take anywhere from 10% to 70%!!!!!Ram is detected and all! First I THOUGH it could of been faulty ram so I re-inserted the orignal 512mb and the pc usage is still up!This is getting annoying to say the least! So any ideas on whats wrong or how to fix this?
Note: I opened up the computer and removed dust clumps that looked like dead rats.Started up laptop again and its not as bad but STILL uses too much resources for anything.Im nearly certain that when cleaning the fans I blew dust into the heatsink......(sigh)time to look again.Where did you get the RAM and what exactly did you get (not just the speed, please)?

http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=Inspiron+9100

What are you using for virus and spyware protection?

Hi,

I have a Dell C610 Latitude Laptop. I was using my computer while
the AC Adapter was plugged in to charge the battery.
The adapter broke off at the point where the plug part connects to the rest of the adapter while still plugged inside the laptop. This is the smallest
piece of the adapter only, the only part that is placed inside the laptop.
Nothing is damaged or broken of the laptop itself, my problem is
that that small piece is now stuck there and I can't figure out any way
to remove this. I have no way to use my computer as of now since
I can no longer charge the battery.

I hope that explained it well; the only thing that was damaged was
the ac adapter cord piece. The laptop itself is undamaged, but the
very tip of the adapter (that plugs in) is stuck there, with nothing
sticking out that I could pull on to remove it. There are small hole pins
from where it used to be connected to the adapter on the plugtip.

If this isn't easily fixable, is there any other way to charge my battery
for now? Is there a USB attachable adapter out there, although that
seems like it wouldn't work since it appears like the ac part connects
directly to the battery.

Thanks very much in advance,

Sonia sonvaz ....... I would say that perhaps the best thing you could do would be to take the laptop into a local repair shop and they should be able to remove the broken adapters probe. It might also be POSSIBLE to make a tool to pull the broken part out..... however unless you are comfortable doing that, the repair shop is your best bet.

Good luck ,

dl65 Agreed...you don't wanna create a doorstop, it's a sinking feeling.You can read this---->This

Absolutely no chortling from you other members......LOL
May sound like a silly question, but I thought maybe there was some
chance that I could avoid a trip to repairshop and possible expense.
For example, I was told by Dell tech help, that I could get a
pair of nose CLIPPERS and gently pull it straight out.


You are playing an economics game.How much is the laptop
worth?What would the repair cost?You're right, I found out Best Buy should be able to remove it for me
with no cost. It was just hard for me to imagine anyone actually placing
a cost, at least not above $15 say for what amounts to pulling out a piece of plastic. That article was pretty funny, I actually had the same
superglue trick go through my head... My first attempt would have been chewing gum...Bazooka to be exact...then the shop if it didn't work.Duct tape. Quote from: GX1_Man on April 07, 2007, 09:58:31 PM

Duct tape.

I tried to install some ram into my computer So I put it in next to the old one then The monitor went into what looks to be standby everytime I start it up even with the new video card or just the old video card so I bought a new one and i still stays in standby mode The CD/DVD drives work that fans are all working tried different videocards and it doesnt fix ANYTHING. I dont think I knocked anything loose doing it. Any suggestions? Also on start up it makes 3 beeps its an older gateway computer can get more details if needed.Bad or incompatable RAM, or RAM not SEATED properly are MUCH more likely than a video card that you did not change before the problem started.

What is the motherboard or computer make or model and what did you buy (including ALL specifications, not just the SPEED)? Just because it fits does not MEAN it will work.

i kno u probably WANT details of my computer n all first, but i want to know if u saw the following signs which hardware part would u assume is messed up.

- first my monitor was ACTING up by means of the computer turning on and the monitor would just go into standby mode as if the computer had never turned on.- n the monitor made scary sounds as if the tube was blown

- i bought a new monitor
- the monitor is hooked but it says no video signal... and now when i turn the COMP. on the cd drives don't work .. they don't open..

the cd drives thing lead me to beleive the motherboard was BROKE. but the monitor problem first made me think the video card is messed up. This could be a failed power supply. Have experienced any signs of a gradually worsening problem prior to this, such as freeze-ups or sporadic failure to start when you turned the power on?Quote from: ap2487 on APRIL 11, 2007, 02:44:08 PM

the cd drives thing lead me to beleive the motherboard was broke. but the monitor problem first made me think the video card is messed up.

I have connected the usb cable to my monitor but cannot find anywhere to connect it to the computer. What is this cable for? No info available and I guess the NEC company expects me to KNOW SOMETHING about computers that I don't. Any help out there?How long have you had this monitor? Do you have a user's manual for it? Are you USING that monitor right now? What MODEL is it?

I have a Dell computer with Windows XP and after my son (23) got through with playing on-line GAMES on the computer, we STARTED having problems. And now the CD and DVD RW drives won't recognize anything. Is there something I can do to get them working again?Will those drives OPEN?

Hey guys

New system is finally finished

One problem so far, My monitor is stuck in Sleep mode. The light is amber and the screen will show nothing. Unplugging it from the computer will cause a "Self Test" thing come up and float around the screen. But when plugging it back in the computer, it goes back to amber and there is no reviving it

Thanks for the help as always Please list your operating system and computer specs, please.we really REQUIRE the details of the motherboard and the more details the better we can advise.

it could be that there is an onboard graphics chip, or that you have not connected the 12VOLT 4 pin connector to the Graphics card if it is SLI or to the motherboard as newer BOARDS have an extra power requierment,
we really need the info to help you. Sorry I was so stressed out I forgot


Motherboard: Asus P5N-E SLI
OS: Windows XP SP2
GPU: 7600gt
CPU: Intel 3.2ghz
Did you install the video DRIVERS that came with the card ? ?What is the make and wattage of the power supply? Is it hooked up correctly (as asked earlier but not answered)?Hey, sorry about the slow response, lots going on.

Patio, I can install anything, because the monitor will not come on. I've two other different monitors.

GX, The PSU is a Rosewill 550w SLI

I have everything hooked up as stated in MoBo Manual.

Thanks as always.

o sorry the controls are


brightness/ contrast /black LEVEL /volume
clock/ clock phase/ horizontal position/ VERTICLE position
auto setup / auto adjust
all reset / OSD position / power save/ display mode / colorQuote from: soybean on April 09, 2007, 08:12:15 PM

Quote from: soybean on April 09, 2007, 07:00:41 PM

Quote from: regedit on April 09, 2007, 06:21:15 PM

... background is stretched and bigger, but then part of the screen is cut off
so then i have to put the mouse to the left/top/bottom/right of the screen so it would scroll to the part that is not visible

So, part of the display is pushed off the monitor screen. Is that what you mean? If so, have you tried using the CONTROL buttons on your monitor to adjust your screen?

Again, is this what happens?

Hi, everyone. I just want to ask if it is possible to connect my SONY Playstation2 with computer? Any suggestion and help will be greatly appretiate.

Thank,
WahabUSB or ETHERNET.
I don't have a PS2 so I don't KNOW what it can and can't do, but try an A to A USB cable or Ethernet cable.If you are considering the Win98 machine mentioned in another thread i highly doubt it would work...No this TIME with windows XP SP2.

I heard you had to do something like jump the hardrive if it isnt sata so how would you do that?What are you TRYING to do and what hardware is involved?I had to jump my Toyota convertible this weekend as i had'nt driven it in awhile...Quote from: patio on April 11, 2007, 02:51:25 AM

... i had'nt driven it in awhile...

It was a hard drive because it wouldn't start.

He might need to check his shocks as well.

I had to jump my Toyota convertible this weekend as i had'nt driven it in awhile...

I just want to ASK you guys if i could replace my current CPU (P3 701Mhz) with P3 1.0Ghz using Socket 370? I used a tool to determine if my motherboard can handle it but I only got this message:

Quote

MAX CPU: 800Mhz (and above...)

one day my 256 mb flash drive only stored 50 mb now. i already looked for hidden and system files.Right click it in Explorer and SELECT "Properties"...this will show a PIE chart showing free and used space.no duh, i'm TRYING to say that i already checked for hidden and system files and it is only a 50 mb drive now when it used to hold 256 mb. Did I drop it too hard or is there a virus or what? Go to this drives properties and tell me how much is the

Used space: mb
Free space: mb


jawanda56Quote from: 52cards on April 11, 2007, 10:32:19 AM

no duh, i'm trying to say that i already checked for hidden and system files and it is only a 50 mb drive now when it used to hold 256 mb. Did I drop it too hard or is there a virus or what?

".... we know the connection is good, because we tested it on my working computer!"

PLEASE explain that. We plugged the RJ45 cable out of the router into the working computer before we plugged it into the computer running 98Well, that prooves nothing on the WIN 98 machine.all I ment was that we had a good connection coming out of the router.. But, what's subject of this discussion? The network card in that Win 98 computer. Since you have no Internet connection with it when connected to a line you know has a Internet signal, that sure doesn't support your claim that wife's son was able [successfully] to install the startech card on Easter Sunday. I was going by what device mgr. said - that the card was recognized and the drivers were installed correctly....Let me guess... you still think that the card is junk! Has ANYONE ever heard of Startech? ESPECIALLY as opposed to D-Link, Netgear, 3Com, Linksys, etc.?

We established that you NEEDED a different card DAYS ago. What price is your time worth?

Hi. Today i got home around 2pm and turned on my computer. EVERYTHING was fine, i even watch the movie Ocean's Twelve. After the movie was done, i was about to go eat. Then i noticed a update from microsoft. I clicked the yellow tag and it told me to install 5 new things. I just clicked install, like i have done to every other installs from microsoft. When it was done, it told me to restart my computer as always, so i clicked restart. I waited until it turned off, then it should turn on again. The comp started just fine, but no signal on my screen. Nothing. I even took out all cables and everything, even took out my gfx card and mounted it back. No use. I've had this comp for almost a year, no problems. The only thing i could think of, is that i just started overclocking my gfx card this week. It's an ATI Radeon X1300 512MB PCI-E. You think that may have caused it? Quite an coinsidence that i just started overclocking my gfx card, then boom, no signal on my screen just a few days after. Also an coinsidence, i installed a new security update from microsoft, pressed restart comp, boom no signal. I'm asking you all to help me please. I'll type in my computer specs down here.


Computer: Fujitsu Siemens
Intel Pentium 4 2.93GHz (2 cpu's)
Motherboard: Gigabyte A-8I195-PM (if i remember correctly)
RAM:1.5 GB
Gfx card: ATI Radeon x1300 512MB PCI-E (overclocked from 400Mhz to 577Mhz with ATI tool. Memory overclocked from 350 to 450 i think.)
Screen: Sony SDM 19" LCD Screen 8m/s


With this long post i made, i hope for an reply and if you want me to find out more things that might help you find out the problem, just ask and i will do my best.

Sincerely, Jan.

*Update: So,ummm..it looks like none of my USB ports works. When i put in something, it just blinks once, then nothing.What happens if you boot into safemode by tapping F8 repeatedly as the machine is starting ? ?

Any video at all ? ?

If so re-boot again into safemode and choose "Last known good configuration" and re-boot normally....

If this gets you back into Windows do yourself a favor and reset that card back to it's original settings...The problem is that my screen is black, so how can i go into safemode and navigate in there?

EDIT: My keyboard doesnt work either, so i cant press f8 at all.

EDIT2: Seems like no of my USB exits works either. :/If you have no display at all your only choice would be to POWER down, remove all power sources to the case and physically remove that vid card.
Hook up the monitor to the onboard graphics and go from there....

The reason you have no keyboard or USB devices is because Windows isn't loading properly and it needs to for the USB drivers.

Another reason everyone should own a PS2 mouse and keyboard.

After you re-boot you will probably have to uninstall the vid card drivers and start over...Quote from: celt on April 11, 2007, 08:50:48 AM

The only thing i could think of, is that i just started overclocking my gfx card this week. It's an ATI Radeon X1300 512MB PCI-E. You think that may have caused it? Quite a coinsidence that i just started overclocking my gfx card, then boom, no signal on my screen just a few days after. Also an coinsidence, i installed a new security update from microsoft, pressed restart comp, boom no signal.

i have an ebson perfection 2400 scanner that scans neg FILM, color slided and flatbed. one DAY the scanner decided not to scan the 35mm slides, it will do everything ELSE but not the slides. either it cant find them on the scanner bed or it scans only PART of the image. One out of the four slides you PUT in the tray will scan complete and the other 3 will only be a part image. Next try it cant find any of the slides. If you change the mode to say neg film the problem goes away and the scanner will find and scan all 4 slides, except as color negs wich is no good.
daveHow old is the scanner? Is it still under warranty? All electronic components fail eventually. Have you contacted Epson?

My PC is P4 2.4ghz, Mercury845GLMP board with onboard graphics. I use MS win xp pro. 512mb DDR ram. Recently, I purchased new Nvidia fx5200 AGP card to improve my PC's display. Fitted this in the slot provided on the Mobo. Moved the monitor cable to this AGP card. Upon starting the PC, no display appeared. So changed back the monitor to onboard and checked Bios. Found no settings to enable AGP card or to disable onboard graphics. 'Init display first' setting is 'PCI slot'. Uninstalled the onboard graphic from add/remove and upon RESTARTING, the computer again installed the onboard graphic, totally ignoring the AGP card fitted in its slot.
To rule out any problem with the new AGP card, fitted it on my friends PC, it started working fine within no time.
What's going wrong? Help...
jawanda56Do you have to install "drivers" from a cd OR- from a manufacturers web- page before installing and using that AGP-Slot video card?I used the driver from the CD which came with the AGP card.

jawanda56
Hi, there should be a setting in the BIOS for enabling and disabling the onboard graphics CHIP, and enabling an installed graphics card this may be an automatic detection of the devive but usually it is a setting to activate. unfortunately i cannot get into the manufacturers Kobian Mercury web site to see the manual, they may have went out of business or changed there name.
i have found this is the current web site for your motherboard

http://www.mercury-pc.com/downloads.php
there may be more up to date information there and new drivers
here
http://www.mercury-pc.com/downloads_list.php?productid=555Thanks Usesquebeathus for the web site for my mobo. checked the specification for the mob at http://www.mercury-pc.com/product-detail.php?link=p-mainboards&subtitle=Mainboard&productid=460# and found that this board does not have a expansion slot for AGP. Perhaps a dummy AGP slot is fitted on the motherboard. Is this type of manufacturing normal? Now I remember, there was label covering this slot with following written on it 'Support Add Card Only'. My AGP card fitted in perfectly in this slot. I presume, my mobo does not support an AGP card. Am I right?

jawanda56Quote from: jawanda56 on April 09, 2007, 10:26:42 PM

My PC is P4 2.4ghz, Mercury845GLMP board with onboard graphics. I use MS win xp pro. 512mb DDR ram. Recently, I purchased new Nvidia fx5200 AGP card to improve my PC's display. Fitted this in the slot provided on the Mobo. Moved the monitor cable to this AGP card. Upon starting the PC, no display appeared. So changed back the monitor to onboard and checked Bios. Found no settings to enable AGP card or to disable onboard graphics. 'Init display first' setting is 'PCI slot'. Uninstalled the onboard graphic from add/remove and upon restarting, the computer again installed the onboard graphic, totally ignoring the AGP card fitted in its slot.
To rule out any problem with the new AGP card, fitted it on my friends PC, it started working fine within no time.
What's going wrong? Help...
jawanda56

Thanks Usesquebeathus for the web site for my mobo. checked the specification for the mob at http://www.mercury-pc.com/product-detail.php?link=p-mainboards&subtitle=Mainboard&productid=460# and found that this board does not have a expansion slot for AGP. Perhaps a dummy AGP slot is fitted on the motherboard. Is this type of manufacturing normal? Now I remember, there was label covering this slot with following written on it 'Support Add Card Only'. My AGP card fitted in perfectly in this slot. I presume, my mobo does not support an AGP card. Am I right?

Thanks Usesquebeathus for the web site for my mobo. checked the specification for the mob at http://www.mercury-pc.com/product-detail.php?link=p-mainboards&subtitle=Mainboard&productid=460# and found that this board does not have a expansion slot for AGP. Perhaps a dummy AGP slot is fitted on the motherboard. Is this type of manufacturing normal?