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Please help! I have an eMachineT6410 with XP, 512 RAM, AMD3200. All of my USB ports stopped working after hooking up a Logitech webcam. My internet and email slowed to a crawl. I have since run 4 different programs for virus scans, 3 spyware, trojan hunter and 2 reg checks with no finds. I also had my ISP provider and emachines logged onto my PC 3 times with no luck. I uninstalled the webcam. I disabled the virus scan SOFTWARE. I finally disabled the 3 USB root hubs which finally allowed my internet and email to run smoothly. I still cannot use any of the USB type A ports, or the media card readers (there are 9 all together). I have also done the disk cleanup, CCleaner and defragged. I don't know what else to do save bringing it into a tech and probably spending more to diagnose than I spent on the PC! Anyone out there have an idea?No amount of programs is going to convince me your PC is problem/virus free. Perhaps if you throw in a few brand names I'll be slightly convinced? I have run the following programs on my CPU (sorry about the terminology; if I was a pro, I'd know how to fix this thing without asking)

AVG Anti-Virus
McAfee AV
Trojan Hunter
Advanced System Optimizer (spyware, registry check and AV)
CCleaner
AVG Spyware
Spy-bot
AdAware
Registry Clean
One other AV program that I since DELETED on the advice of the ISP guysGo to Control Panel/System/Device Manager....scroll to the bottom and find the USB listings.
Right click every instance of a root or hub and select remove...you will get a warning...ignore it.
Upon re-boot Windows will re-install the USB hubs.

Shut down and re-connect the USB device and re-boot.Patio - thanks for the suggestion. I did that but it hasn't worked. I had to go back and disable the USB root hubs again to get the internet to work. I am a newbie, for sure, but I can't imagine how the hubs are affecting the internet connection??? Is it a power issue? thanks!Well it was worth a shot ...what USB devices are you currently using ? ?

They should have no effect on your connection speed by the WAY.# Interface
# 7 USB 2.0 USB 2.0, < ;)1 IEEE 1394 (FireWire) RJ-11, 1 Monitor RJ-45, 1 Parallel, 2 PS/2, 1 Modem, 1 Ethernet,


Have you possibly added ANYTHING else (sound card, etc...) or
manually assigned irq /port / usb channels, addresses etc ....there is also a chance that your USB doesn't work anymore rather then the port. i suggest that you check that on another computer first Hi all - I had the following devices hooked up when everything crashed: Kodak EasyShare camera (docked), logitech webcam, Lexmark printer. I checked all 3 on another PC and they are all working. Right before this happened, I had some issues with the CPU freezing up and I had to shut down using the power button. Maybe I sent a surge through the system and blew something out entirely? I know it doesn't make any sense at all, but with the USB hubs enabled in device manager, my email is frozen. Earthlink thinks I am nuts too! I appreciate everyone's suggestions and will try anything before I have to go pay the Geek Squad at Best Buy (who will just sell me a new computer, right?)Assuming you have a PCI slot available, a solution: SYBA PCI USB 2.0 4+1 port controller card Model SD-V2-5U - Retail Do you have the Easyshare software installed ? ?

This has been known to cause USB issues as well.

I need a different video card to replace NVIDEA TnT2Pro0002.
I am having a problem replacing the monitor (Gateway FPD 1500) (the SCREEN is fading to black) used with my Gateway Performance 500 (S/N 0017133776) and using Windows 98. I need to continue using Windows 98 because I do not wish to upgrade expensive software applications that I use on that system. Two attempts at new monitors that were SUPPOSED to work failed. The screen is blank during boot, is unable to wake from a sleep, and hangs on SHUTDOWN. I have bought and RETURNED two monitors and a video card from other sources. Old monitor works. The as delivered video card (TnT2Pro0002) has a 24+1 pin, with pins 4-5, 12-13, & 20-21 empty, CONNECTOR and the interconnect converts to a 20 pin sub-D, . It looks like a compatible video card with VGA connector type, standard 15 pin subD, standard AGP card connection, and drivers that work with Windows 98 would be O.K with new monitors on the market.You ordered a new videocard and.. What is the problem? You didn't end your story with a question mark..

Hello,

I am trying to back up files on my laptop, onto CD. I have previously done this by copying the required files to the CD drive and then choosing the 'Write files to CD' OPTION in explorer. However, when selecting this option the wizard keeps saying that I have not inserted a CD. I am using standard blank CD-Rs and have not had such a problem before. The drive will play CDs as normal.

I have noticed that under properties of a CD my computer is reporting Used space as 0% and available space as 0%.

Please help!!Try a few different new blank CD-R's until one is recognized. These drives are notoriously picky about CD writing. Thanks, but I've already tried this, even with CD-RW which the drive should take as well and still no luck!It's probably not this but, just in CASE, in Control Panel go to Device Manager, select the appropriate drive and select update driver. You could also "UNinstall the current driver," shut down, RESTART and the driver will reinstall itself.

Also try opening two windows: 1) The drive with the CD-R and 2) the file location(s). Drag & drop the file(s) into the drive window. It's will either work or you'll get an error message which "might" offer a clue to the problem. have you previously wrote to these cd's then deleted the things which were on it? i did that before, and my drive did not like it. i had the same problem as you, however one thing different, is that other cd's worked in it.....How old is the drive itself? Has it had a lot of use? Still under warranty perhaps? Usually the burning fails before the READING ability if it is a hardware issue.

i have a friend with the above computer and moniter and no book-does anyone KNOW how to refresh this HP moniter? message comes up in green with EVERY reboot.also screen is very dark-is this connected?Refresh a monitor? There's no such thing, if the monitor is very dark, use the gamma and brightness controls to make it more bright. If it grows darker over a period of time, the monitor is breaking down.

The refresh rate can be controlled from within Windows if the proper drivers are installed. 60 hertz is most likely the DEFAULT refresh rate... hp a705w is a computer, not a monitor. And this IDENTIFIES one issue.

The TV tuner WORKED great in XP's Media Center but after installing Vista Home Premium (upgrade) the TV Tuner is not recognized followed by a Media Center crash. All other features (except TV) in Media Center work (ie., Music, previously recorded TV programs, etc.). I installed Sony's TV Tuner patch (http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-download.pl?mdl=VGCRA842G&upd_id=2451&os_id=28) with & without Norton running but to no avail. My desktop computer specs are listed below and I would appreciate any advice on what to do to fix it that anyone can provide. Thanks.

Operating System: Windows Vista Home Premium (build 6000)
Computer Model: Sony Corporation VGC-RA842G
Enclosure Type: Desktop
3.00 gigahertz Intel Pentium D (2 installed)
16 kilobyte primary memory cache
1024 kilobyte secondary memory cache
Board: ASUSTek Computer INC. P5LP-VX
Bus Clock: 200 megahertz
BIOS: Phoenix TECHNOLOGIES, LTD 1001 05/18/2005
992.56 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
785.92 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

2046 MEGABYTES Installed Memory

Slot 'A0' has 512 MB
Slot 'A1' has 512 MB
Slot 'A2' has 512 MB
Slot 'A3' has 512 MB


I've had a problem with a TV tuner in Vista as well, but it was related to not being able to find any channels.

You may need to wait before a proper Windows Vista driver is released. It's probably just a driver problem Vista support is still lacking in CERTAIN areas from some manufacturers *ATI/AMD... or whatever you want to call them*. I'm waiting to upgrade until the all-in-wonder drivers from ATI support the on-board tv tuner on my x800xt so good luck.Just as the other two posters indicated, you will probably have to wait until drivers are released. It has been well documented that some hard ware just won't work with Vista yet. Always check Microsoft's hardware compatibility list before you upgradeAs well as some software.

I originally had a RADEON 9000, i switched to an nvidia geforce4 and ever since i turned the computer on of course it was in 800x600 pxls then after the INSTALLATION i switched it back to the 1024x768. when it was in 800x600 it would flick or kind of scramble for a second. now it does that whenever i click on the nvidia icon in the task BAR or GO to the nvidia control panel. should i be worried?No, you should however begin with reading manuals and install proper drivers.

don't feel bad if you have plenty of screws left over when you are done, because apparantly it is virtually impossable to get all the screws back in where they are supposed to go. we always have screws left over when putting a laptop back together they just not short of screws, so a few less don't matter

don't feel bad if you have plenty of screws left over when you are done, because apparantly it is virtually impossable to get all the screws back in where they are supposed to go. we always have screws left over when putting a laptop back together they just not short of screws, so a few less don't matter

I'm looking for a data base that has hardware spec number traslation, So I may learn what parts will work with other parts.

i.e. g-force 6500 will work with what mainboard, or PC 3200 ddr will work on what mainboard and or Processor 64 duo +3000 = ?? I wanna know what these numbers mean in reference to other parts I wanna install.This came up in the past and was determined to be a pointless endeaver. An PCIe card will only work with a motherboard with a PCIe slot, but if the power supply is insufficient it won't work, ETC. Specific type of RAM and maximum AMOUNT depends on the specific motherboard, etc. You get the idea. Those numbers are meaningless. Buzzwords and type numbers, they will give you a general outline of what product you're looking at compared to other products in the same range.

The only way you can really tell if something is compatible is by testing or looking up HCL lists. yeah.... i know...
I was just wondering if anyone had some new found know how.

ok, how about this, anywhere i can find out what those numbers mean per part? just so i can atleast get an idea of what is what , when i go to the stores? Like what is the HCL LIST? Hardware Compatibility list, should be offered on OS vendors their websites.

As for the numbers.. You can get an idea by comparing price and specifications.

For example: a 8800GT will be superior to a 6600GS (Both Nvidia videocards)... For graphics cards, you can check the , written by my good self.For other components, FEEL free to ask which is better if you're not sure.Are you considering mass producing desktop machine's and knocking Dell off the map ?Quote from: patio on April 18, 2007, 03:42:20 PM

Are you considering mass producing desktop machine's and knocking Dell off the map ?

I got one order for " BEST OF THE BEST" this guy has $$$$$ but no know how. Grin Grin favorate customer!

I removed the HDD and put in another MACHINE. BIOS DID see the hard DRIVE. i took the HDD from the working machine put it in and got the same message, operating system not found. Checked in bios and still the same.
Primary IDE control: NONE
secondary IDE control: CD-ROM

Guess the laptop has had it, then. well it needs to give it backI don't think there is much you can do, laptop parts are very hard to replace. But you can try looking for a broken one that has the parts that you need. there is no way i am giving up that easy. this NOTEBOOK is not fried. ;Di when i get it fixed i will send you a picture of me sitting behind it Alright, let us know what fixed it. Quote from: Jeffneedshelp on April 16, 2007, 04:12:19 PM

I removed the HDD and put in another machine. BIOS DID see the hard drive. i took the HDD from the working machine put it in and got the same message, operating system not found. Checked in bios and still the same.
Primary IDE control: NONE
secondary IDE control: CD-ROM

Our HP printer no longer prints. I believe the issues stems from when our modem DIED, and we had to get a replacement. I've tried to research, but keep seeing a warning "Make sure your printer is CONNECTED to the same network as your computer,"--but no information about how to check to see what network the wireless printer is using (or trying to use). Because we have a new modem and WiFi name, I am THINKING that is the problem. Any assistance would be appreciated. If you are using wireless printing then when the modem is changed you will need to GO BACK to the beginning and reset up the printer to connect to the wireless network. Then re configure the printer setup on your devices to use the printer on the different wireless network. Thanks for the info. That is pretty much what I was thinking.

It is OKAY to REPLACE my original BATTERY into HIGHER voltage?No.

I have a laptop and use USB C dongle to connect my 2 other screens. One through VGA and and through HDMI. They both work without any issues, however they just mirror whatever is on the main laptop screen. Windows can't detect them at all. In the Monitores section in the Device manager it says "Generic PnP Monitor" two times. My graphics card is GeForce GTX 1050. I've had second screen connected (a different one) that worked without any issues. I use Windows 10.
Any ideas? Any help would be much appriciated.Does the laptop support multi MONITORS ? ?...Not all do.
If you are using a cheaper adapter, it probably won't connect very well. You would probably need a more reputable adapter to use it as an extended display. With my experience with USB-C, the adapter you use really matters.Its POSSIBLE there might be an issue with your adapter or cable connection. You could try nudging the cable to see if it works or change out the cable. Restart your computer then check if its working again properly. You can also try lowering the screen resolution of the second monitor to see if that works !Hi samzan

If you use a splitter cable, the only OPTION you will get is Duplicate screens, since the same signal will be fed to both screens
You need to have a graphics card with 2 separate outputs to be able to extend your desktop and have basically 2 different desktopsUmmm he hasnt been BACK since June...

Howdy, all. This is my first post here - it SEEMS like a wonderful forum. I didn't find a post which answered my questions, so I'm starting this one. Sorry if this is obvious and already answered elsewhere...

Ok, my buddy's got a Dell Latitude C600, which he purchased as refurb. It's using Revision A23 bios (which Dell and others claim is most recent) was using WinXP, has 20G IBM (ntfs format) HDD. The thing "froze" a while back and went to blue screen. After that, he could never get Windows to come back up, it would just cycle through the bios and ask for bios password to change setup (Dell security!) He had another friend reset the password by shorting the cmos chip, I believe, and now the bios is accessible, and all passwords are disabled (including HDD security).

Then I took over and tried to boot with winxp disc. This says that there's a problem trying to install to c: partition. So, then I go to the recovery PORTION of winxp and try chkdsk, fixboot, fixmbr, and format. They all give errors like bad sectors, and bad boot sector. So, I download Hitachi drive fitness and go through all of it's diagnostics which say the same thing - your HDD would serve you better as a skipping stone. Ok, ok, hard drives fail, and this one seems to have failed.

So, I take my other roommate's Inspiron (running XP) HDD (fujitsu 40G), which I think is the same sort of thing - it has the same exact connectors and bay, and put it into the Latitudes bay where the junk hd was. I boot it and it now brings up the windows recovery screen, with the options of safe mode, safe mode blah, or start windows normally. Well none of these work. They all cycle back to bios startup and windows never appear(s).

So, I suppose what I'm asking is, should I expect simply swapping out this bad hdd for one that I know is functional to bring up windows, or will I NEED a different driver or some such thing? Also, is there any more hope for this HDD - why can't I re-initialize this disk and start over writing on the remaining good sectors? Basically I don't want to tell him to buy a new HDD only to find out that there is some more fundamental problem with this computer. If the boot sector did go bad, then this would explain the symptoms, I suppose. However, I am also suspicious of the ghost, et al.

Sorry for the longwinded story. If you've made it this far, I thank you very much for your time and your help too, if you so choose! I'm sorry I forgot to mention the very last thing I tried with this hdd. I made a Win98SE boot cd and used debug script to clear the partition table(which worked I guess), and then tried doing fdisk /mbr and format, which failed too. fdisk wouldn't let me delete the non-dos ntfs partition and add a new primary dos partition. fdisk simply didn't want to deal with this hdd at all. Then I went back to the XP cd and tried to reinstall (thinking that the partition table may have actually been cleared and that this might help matters), and the same partition error occured again.Try repeating the debug routine, then run fdisk without using the switches. After running fdisk, reformat.I tried this debug script (using whatever dos is on WIN98SE disk):
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;EN-US;106419
and later, this script:
http://www.fdisk.com/fdisk/HardDrive.htm

After each, I went into fdisk and y, y to accept big ntfs types, 4 to display partition information, and the partition is still there! These scripts are apparently not deleting the partition table. Why?
When I say 1, 1 to create primary dos partition, it says no space to create primary dos partition.
format c: (with win98se dos - syntax is correct?) returned format not supported on drive c:
then tried fdisk /mbr - which returns: error writing fixed disk. the master boot code has not been updated.

now i notice this: when it's trying to create primary dos partition, the current fixed disk drive: says 1. Shouldn't this be 0? At any rate, it remains stuck at verifying drive integrity 0% complete. Sometimes it sticks here and sometimes it comes out right away and says (like above) no space to create primary dos partition.

why can't this disk just be erased to all zeroes (on good sectors), remapped, and reinitialized?

2k dummy - by 'running fdisk without the switches' you mean that I should try to create a primary dos partition (which didn't work as above), yeah? without /mbr switch, yeah?

SCANDISK says data could not be written to cluster 2. The \io.sys file is currently using cluster 2. scandisk did not patch the cluster.Try the debug routine located here:

http://www.bitzenbytes.com/Content-Arcanum-18-1-34.html#boldscr

It should work a bit better. same results with third debug script (win98se boot cd). did script. reboot (98) fdisk. delete ntfs partition (yes it was still there). create primary dos partition. stuck at verifying drive integrity 0% complete.
You probably need something like THIS . Ok. Am trying that. LOOKS like I'll be getting back to you in a week or two...

Shouldn't this computer boot properly when I put a functional hd in it?How do you short a CMOS chip? And what does it do?

Hi, I am having some issues with my hard drive. It appears that I lost almost all my files from my hard drive but when I go to properties it STILL shows that the drive is almost full. So it seems like all my information is still there but I can't see or ACCESS it. If anyone can HELP it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
120
Are your folders "hidden"? If they are then double click on the My Computer icon on your desktop, click Tools, then Folder Options, then VIEW, then click on "Show hidden files and folders".

HOPE this helps.Try This...

Greetings.

Head scratcher. Got a sony laptop model SVT131A11L and cant seem to figure out which somy power adapter j need to buy. There is these but the last 2 numbers constantly change.

sony vgp-ac19v48

Im finding v49, V16, v19 V24 isk which one im to order. And no ive tried universal. The plug wont work.

Thanks. There is some good info on this page about Replacement Sony Laptop Chargers, with a side on picture of the 3 most common sizes / types:

https://www.laptoppowercharger.co.uk/sony-laptop-power-adapters.htmIf you get the 90 watt adapter it will cover all versions of the Sony laptop, so this one 90-Watt, 19.5V, up to 4.61AHis problem isn't the wattage or voltage, its the size of the plug and will it fitQuote from: Gizmo on March 20, 2021, 10:59:40 AM

His problem isn't the wattage or voltage, its the size of the plug and will it fit

There is some good info on this page about Replacement Sony Laptop Chargers, with a side on picture of the 3 most common sizes / types:

https://www.laptoppowercharger.co.uk/sony-laptop-power-adapters.htm

His problem isn't the wattage or voltage, its the size of the plug and will it fit

Thankyou Allan and I'm sorry Gizmo I was following on from your post.

There is some good info on this page about Replacement Sony Laptop Chargers, with a side on picture of the 3 most common sizes / types:

https://www.laptoppowercharger.co.uk/sony-laptop-power-adapters.htm

Meaning the best option which will work is the https://www.laptoppowercharger.co.uk/sony-19-5v-4-7a-90w-6-5x4-4mm-laptop-ac-adapter.htm

Before buying a new charger comda perhaps try the laptop with the battery removed there is 2 slider clips to release the battery. Quite often if the battery is left to go flat the charger doesn't have enough capacity to charge the battery and start the laptop. Once the laptop starts you can reinsert the battery and check if it is charging.

Hi all !
Hoping someone can suggest a fix or point me in an appropriate direction.
A week or so ago, I noticed a black horizontal line in the upper LEFT of my laptop. it is not a smudge on the monitor.

My specs are:
---------------------------
Code: [Select]System: Kernel: 5.4.0-81-generic x86_64 bits: 64 compiler: gcc v: 9.3.0 Desktop: Cinnamon 4.8.6
wm: muffin dm: LightDM Distro: Linux Mint 20.1 Ulyssa base: Ubuntu 20.04 focal
MACHINE: Type: Laptop System: Hewlett-Packard product: HP 15 Notebook PC
v: 0974120000405F00000620180 serial: <filter> Chassis: type: 10 serial: <filter>
Mobo: Hewlett-Packard model: 2211 v: 86.45 serial: <filter> UEFI: Insyde v: F.32
date: 10/28/2014
Battery: ID-1: BAT1 charge: 29.5 Wh condition: 29.5/29.5 Wh (100%) volts: 16.7/14.8
model: 13-42 OA04041 serial: <filter> status: Full
CPU: Topology: Dual Core model: Intel Core i3-4005U bits: 64 type: MT MCP arch: Haswell
rev: 1 L2 cache: 3072 KiB
flags: avx avx2 lm nx pae sse sse2 sse3 sse4_1 sse4_2 ssse3 vmx bogomips: 13569
Speed: 851 MHz min/max: 800/1700 MHz Core speeds (MHz): 1: 869 2: 883 3: 872 4: 847
Graphics: Device-1: Intel Haswell-ULT Integrated Graphics vendor: Hewlett-Packard driver: i915
v: kernel bus ID: 00:02.0 chip ID: 8086:0a16
Display: x11 server: X.Org 1.20.11 driver: modesetting unloaded: fbdev,vesa
resolution: 1366x768~60Hz
OpenGL: renderer: Mesa DRI Intel HD Graphics 4400 (HSW GT2) v: 4.5 Mesa 21.0.3
compat-v: 3.0 direct render: Yes
Sensors: System Temperatures: cpu: 43.0 C mobo: 43.0 C
Fan Speeds (RPM): N/A
The line seems to be getting longer horizontally.
I've attached a scree and since I'm not CERTAIN it is not soft of firmware, I've posted this query in software as well there.

Thanks very much for any assistance! It's a rather old one so it might be physical problem with display. The crystals sometimes GET leaked inside and there you have that black line. IMHO.
Or, you can update the graphic driver or plug in another display to see if there is a black line also there. But, I thinks it's faulty display...

Hello, My computer has been shutting down suddenly recently. I have checked the hardware devices and they are still working properly and the PSU is not overheating.
Has ANYONE encountered the same situation as me? Thanks!If a cooling fan doesn't spin freely and its expected to spin a system will just shutdown completely abruptly to protect itself from thermal failure. I'd TURN the computer on and make sure all cooling fans operate as they should and without any groaning from bearing failure.

Other thing that can cause a system to shut down fast like that is if the CPU exceeds the shutdown temperature which on some systems is 80-90C and is set up in BIOS on some systems as adjustable. You might need to RUN a program like speedfan to see the temperature of the CPU and GPU. Some BIOS's have a real time thermal display when idle that can be looked at to see if its running hotter than it should without a load of a software program running.

Dirty power is other cause of system shutting off, such as the power drops out quickly and COMES back but the system dropped below critical voltage to remaining on.Open the case and look for all fans if they are spinning. With case open start the pc and wait if it shutdown again (sometimes it can cool itself with one side removed). You can also check the temperature of the cpu by hand-just quickly touch the cooler close to cpu unit (carefully though...) You can also test running with another psu unit (despite being ok-you just can't see all the stuff in there).

I remember I saw on CNN about a month ago that there is a computer case contest where people would DECORATE their PC case with LED's and paint and stuff. ONE of the computers looked like a cake with candles. All out of LED lights!thnx Silent, Ill see what i can do, WHEN not if i need help. You will hear from me... THNX Just google case modding and you will be overwhelmed with ideas on fancy lights, fishtanks and Lego computers.Quote from: Lurch on April 19, 2007, 09:13:46 AM

thnx Silent, Ill see what i can do, WHEN not if i need help. You will hear from me... THNX

I have Windows XP Professional with the Services Pack 2 ( it's a copy). I reformatted my hard drive two days ago. It was EASIER than I thought it was going to be. It only took about forty minutes, and then I had to re-install Office, and all of my other programs, as well as my internet and email stuff. This took about 2 hours. I installed my AVG, spybot, ad aware and I was thrilled beyond believe when my computer was fast again, just like when I BOUGHT it three years ago. But I started getting this message to SCAN the registry, which I did. I had 45 errors, but of course, it won't fix them unless you buy the registry kit, which I didn't. Anyway, the computer was running very SMOOTHLY, but I wanted to change the appearance of my desktop by making the font smaller. I've done this before a long time ago. Anyway, I went into the control panel, and slid the ruler thingie, and I didn't make it past 2 markers before my computer went blank and I have this annoying box that says "input not SUPPORT" bouncing all over my screen. I've tried re-booting countless times, but I don't get past the opening WindowsXP screen ( as it's loading for about five seconds), before the screen goes black again and I have that annoying little box bouncing around again. I was told it was the video card, but that doesn't make any sense, as I wouldn't have any picture at all without a video card, would I? I was thinking it might be a virus, but how can I fix it if I can't get into my computer? And what does "input not support" mean? I have an AMD Duron processor 1.3 GHz, 512 mg Ram, 80 gig hard drive that's partitioned into 2 - 40 gig drives. I've tried F8 and DEL and get two different BIOS screens, and I've tried re-booting with the CD but it doesn't work. Any ideas? I'm going out of my mind....Did you re-install all your drivers after the format and re-install including the MBoard and vid card drivers ? ?

It's possible the Mothership has caught up with your "copy " of XP....Press F8 before Windows loads and choose VGA Mode. Install proper videocard drivers afterwards..

I have a Hp ScanJet5p scanner that uses a SCSI INTERFACE. I recently purchased a new computer and also PICKED up a SCSI to USB adapter to try and reconfigure my Scanner to run in XP using the USB port. My question is this possible? Whenever I try to install the scanner the computer sees it as a USB Mass Storage DEVICE and won't see it as a scanner and will therefore not operate. Any takers on this one?You did install DRIVERS for the converter? The adapter is just a cable with USB plug on one side and a SCSI plug on the other. So I need an apapter for this item as no one was supplied with the cable.That doesn't change my question. Did you install drivers for it? Most converters can't work without drivers.. No, I have not installed any drivers. So I guess my next step would be to locate a driver. I think I tried to find drivers but had no real success. I'll try some more. ThanksHP has all drivers on their site...

http://h20180.www2.hp.com/apps/Lookup?h_pagetype=s-002&h_client=S-A-R163-1&h_page=hpcom&lang=en&cc=us&h_lang=en&h_cc=us&h_query=scanjet5p

Use whichever of the three applies to your printer. Then, SELECT your OS and you'll be presented with the driver for your hardware.Quote from: Trumpeter1 on April 17, 2007, 03:03:30 PM

No, I have not installed any drivers. So I guess my next step would be to locate a driver. I think I tried to find drivers but had no real success. I'll try some more. Thanks

Hi people, my 1ST post here, hope you can help!..

Here GOES.. I bought the above drive today with a view to backing up my old DVD backup's and rather huge music collection etc...the drive is powered on and device manager confirms that its working ok with the drivers and the bubble thingy pops up confirming this but am I missing something? (dumb?), I have a 500gb HD that is rapidly running out of space! Any help whatsoever would be greatly appreciated, thanks.Did you format the HDD before using it? you mean the seperate one? thats ok, its just the DAT drive thats a pain, maybe i need another BEER or something..This could be a CD...DVD...hard...jump...or other type of drive.

Can you be a little more specific so we can offer help ? ?

Quote from: tmc101 on April 18, 2007, 03:36:20 PM

you mean the seperate one? thats ok, its just the DAT drive thats a pain, maybe i need another beer or something..

sorry, its been kinda a long day, the DAT drive basically plugs into the back of my laptop usb port, the light is green on the dat drive, maybe I've not got the correct software installed for this? It came bundled with yosemite backup software, the drivers for the drive are all installed correctly but the dat drive doesn't come up in my computer.

Hi
I keep getting the message "local area connection lost" a network cable is unplugged. Everything is connected and appears to be in good shape, all the calbes are about a year old or so. I have an ibm with windows xp professional.
Intel{R} Celeron{R} CPU 1.8GHz 1.79GHz 640 MB of RAM

I found all this information if it helps,

local area connection is
Intel(R) PRO/100 VE Network connection
OS NameMicrosoft Windows XP Professional
Version5.1.2600 Service Pack 2 Build 2600
OS ManufacturerMicrosoft Corporation
System Name
System ManufacturerIBM
System Model8305HU1
System TypeX86-based PC
Processorx86 Family 15 Model 1 Stepping 3 GenuineIntel ~1794 Mhz
BIOS Version/DateIBM 24KT48AUS, 7/25/2003
SMBIOS Version2.31
Windows DirectoryC:\WINDOWS
System DirectoryC:\WINDOWS\system32
Boot Device\Device\HarddiskVolume1
LocaleUnited States
Hardware Abstraction LayerVersion = "5.1.2600.2180 (xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-2158)"
User Name
Time ZoneEastern Standard Time
Total Physical Memory640.00 MB
Available Physical Memory184.87 MB
Total Virtual Memory2.00 GB
Available Virtual Memory1.96 GB
Page File Space1.52 GB
Page FileC:\pagefile.sys

thank you for any help you can give me in how to fix this

TrishWhen and how did the problem first occur?I added memory about 2 months ago when i took it out of the closet, my gateways motherboard went up out of warrenty and i cant get it fixed, to much money. Anyways in the pas few weeks it has started doing it. A little ballon pops up from my "tray" "toolbar" thing at the bottom of my screen were the 2 little computers show my connection.

thank you so much
trishIf you have 2of those icons there are 2 connections setup...wired or wireless ? ?Quote from: greenearthfairie on April 16, 2007, 06:24:30 PM

I added memory about 2 months ago when i took it out of the closet, my gateways motherboard went up out of warrenty and i cant get it fixed, to much money. Anyways in the pas few weeks it has started doing it. A little ballon pops up from my "tray" "toolbar" thing at the bottom of my screen were the 2 little computers show my connection.

thank you so much
trish

does the connection work when you use differant or new cables, because if they are a year old, there's a chance that they have broken or somebody ran over it with a chair and broke one of the little wires inside it(i just repeated myself there, didn't i?)
check that, and also enable the connection. that might have been disabled by some person or other

Quote from: computer on April 17, 2007, 08:41:10 AM

does the connection work when you use differant or new cables, because if they are a year old, there's a chance that they have broken or somebody ran over it with a chair and broke one of the little wires inside it(i just repeated myself there, didn't i?)
check that, and also enable the connection. that might have been disabled by some person or other

Where do you come up with this stuff?

Quote from: GX1_Man on April 17, 2007, 01:05:12 PM

Quote from: computer on April 17, 2007, 08:41:10 AM

does the connection work when you use differant or new cables, because if they are a year old, there's a chance that they have broken or somebody ran over it with a chair and broke one of the little wires inside it(i just repeated myself there, didn't i?)
check that, and also enable the connection. that might have been disabled by some person or other

Where do you come up with this stuff?

I was thinking the same thing..

Is the cd drive 4pin sound card cable a relic of the past and useless now? I notice computers less than 5yrs old don't use it. What was it ever used for? For non-ide sound CARDS? I never saw one of those. On a related subject, I have an old Sony CDU311 cd read drive, with earphone plug on front. I want to use it stand-alone to play music cd's on my stereo system. I have a stand-alone power supply for it. It TAKES the cd disc and seems to be playing it, but no audio comes out of the earphone jack. Am I out of luck? Is there no analog circuitry in this drive? Just digital circuitry?Quote from: jonb469 on April 18, 2007, 10:53:54 AM

Is the cd drive 4pin sound card cable a relic of the past and useless now? I notice computers less than 5yrs old don't use it. What was it ever used for? For non-ide sound cards?

On a related subject, I have an old Sony CDU311 cd read drive, with earphone plug on front. I want to use it stand-alone to play music cd's on my stereo system. I have a stand-alone power supply for it. It takes the cd disc and seems to be playing it, but no audio comes out of the earphone jack. Am I out of luck? Is there no analog circuitry in this drive? Just digital circuitry?

Is it possible to control my old computer (access the hard drives, programs, etc. that are on the old computer) with my new computer using only ONE keyboard, one mouse, one monitor for both?Yes, but you will need a KVM switch. what's a KVM switch? or is asking that QUESTION for my own benifet kind of like highjacking it?It stands for Keyboard, Video and Mouse and it's a switch that allows you to plug in the monitor, video and mouse (sometimes SPEAKERS as well) and then a bunch of extension cables lead from the device into the PC so you can switch between computers when they're both running. where from and how MUCH? i'm sure that will benifet the starter too if he/she doesn't know KVM Switch - Wikipedia description is here...

Where from/how much - just one example of many on WWW here...

Good luck

Ive been having disk errors lately on my main drive and i decided to run a check disk. I was just doing simple web browsing during the check and my PC shut down. Now my pc loads up and gets to the windows xp screen and just reboots EVERY TIME. I cant EVEN get onto safe mode or w a command PROMPT. Is my drive completely toasted? Any help would be greatly appreciated Download and run the free diagnostics from the appropriate hard drive maker's site. You'll know soon enough. It's never a good idea to do anything on a machine that is running any kind of scan.
This includes but is not limited to chkdsk, anti-virus and or other protection apps, and RETINAL scans.

You may be looking at a re-install.

Quote from: blugrazdad on April 19, 2007, 05:38:32 AM

No problem guys, at age 55 I finally became a liar.

No problem guys, at age 55 I finally became a liar.

Hello,
I am NEW to the forum and to DEVELOPMENT. One of my projects is development for an app. I am trying to COMPILE a list of all known COMPUTER manufacturers. I was hoping that someone would be able to point me in the right direction? Google is your friend Also agrees with Allan in Google is your friend with the various information you REQUIRE. Additionally your need for help is too broad but Google will help you get the specifics that your looking for.

Bought a CyberPowerPC gaming system. The two front RBG fans were a little loud; BIOS settings only seem to control CPU fan and two top fans. Installed two Noctua PWM 4 pin fans; LEFT 2 pin RGB cables unconnected. Fans didn’t spin up; resetting BIOS didn’t help. Their tech support didn’t respond.

Thought maybe reversed pins and did harm (cable from case has no clip; have to tape together). So bought KazeFlex fans, made sure pin 1 matched…still nothing. All new fans not RGB.

Cable from case comes from splitter connected to MANUAL switch connected to something else to power supply. Third cable from splitter goes to mboard. TRIED disconnecting third cable…nothing.
Please help. CyberPowerPC said it’s third party and bailed.

Case: Cooler Master MasterBox MB500
Mboard: ASUS Prime Z490-V
PS: Thermaltake Toughpower PF1
Eliminate the splitter and TEST 1 at a time...took a picture: https://imgur.com/txO9KoX
not just a splitter...two with green tape top left go to fans
three way splitter has coolermaster label
it goes to large box with button which goes eventually to psLooks back yard HACK to me...just sayin.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought an Adaptec Gamebridge AVC-1400, its a video capture device. I started to install it on my pc and I received an error saying I needed a usb 2.0 host. So I went out and bought the usb 2.0 pci card and installed. The install went WELL and I can use the usb 2.0 ports for my external hard drive and other things.

So I attempted to install the Gamebridge device and I received the message again saying the device required usb 2.0 and my machine did not have it. My machine recognizes the usb ports and they are usable, but this installation cd continues to tell me otherwise.

After endless reading on the net, I see people say the ISSUE is resolved by having windows 2000 service pack 4, but looking at my system, I have that.

Could I be missing some microsoft driver that this device needs? What steps could I TAKE to GET this thing to work?

Oh, and Adaptec tech support is terrible. Try obtaining USB 2.0 drivers from the mainboard manufacturers webpage. ya, what he said ^ You could also try dis-abling legacy USB device support in the BIOS.

Are you familiar with the methods of carefully making changes in the BIOS ? ?Quote from: patio on April 18, 2007, 03:47:01 PM

You could also try dis-abling legacy USB device support in the BIOS.

Are you familiar with the methods of carefully making changes in the BIOS ? ?

Try obtaining USB 2.0 drivers from the mainboard manufacturers webpage.

I have an old WD My Book external HDD which will take very long time to get detected and running.

While it is being detected, there is some sound from the HDD. You can watch the recorded sound here https://youtu.be/ud1E1Dgokr8.

Sometimes when I go to Disk Management to have a look, I will get a prompts saying that the disk is not initiated, and ask me to choose EITHER the MBR or GPT partitioning. Choosing either one will get an I/O error.

I have diagnosed the disk with both Data LifeGuard and CrystalDiskInfo, both do not detect any problem with the disk.

I will have to turn off the disk and on again multiple times to get the disk detected and running. And when it runs, it's working fine most of the time, except that if I did not access the drive for a prolong period of time (eg few hours), it will take a few minutes to be able to access it again.Hi

It sounds like it is not GETTING enough power. The WD power supplies sometimes fail with low output voltage. You can use any supply which is 12v at more than 1.5 amps with a connector which is positive center also it needs to FIT.
The MYBOOKS go into sleep mode after 5 minutes and if the power supply is weak will not restart reliably.
Hi Lisa, I replace the adapter with one from another older, MALFUNCTION external HDD, and no more problem!

Thank you very much!

On a DELL Precision workstation I have a Adaptec U320 SCSI HostRAID Controller.
When I boot to the setup and under Boot Sequence the Onboard SATA Hard drive is not present.
Under Drives in Setup SATA Drive 0 and Drive 1 are both detected and the interface is ON.
Under SATA Operation in Setup RAID is configured ON.

After pressing F6 to chose the SCSI Adapter in my floppy drive I am able to start to install XP PRO. After choosing to set up Windows XP now, I receive an error stating that Setup did not find any hard disk drives installed.

What can I do to get a hard drive recognized so I can install Windows XP Pro?

Thank you for looking.Disable the raid
install OS
install raid drivers
rebuild raid.

Hello all.

I have a HP 6300 MT that I have upgraded the PSU, CPU, Ram and GPU. Because of these UPGRADES, specially the PSU, I always got the 515 FAN error. When the error came up I just press the F1 and that was that; It never bother me until recently.





Hello,
Hello, A couple of days ago I purchase the Logitech G915 wired/wireless keyboard. After an update, which require me to restart the PC the 515 error came up. I immediately click on the F1 key of the G915. To my SURPRISE I could not go pass that. I in even tried restarting the pc again and this time I tried other F keys (F1-12), got no where. I was only able to move pass the 515 error by using my previous wireless keyboard. Dint seem to have any issues with other keyboards, wireless or wireless. I tried to use the Logitech on wired and wireless mode, install and remove Logitech GHub and still nothing.

Just to MAKE sure it wasn't a faulty Logitech G915, I tried it on a PC and a laptop. I had no issues on either device. I can hit any F1-12 w/o issues.


Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.Had an issue like this before and my solution was to keep the old keyboard connected and just not in use along side the new keyboard. When needing to press F1 to continue tap the F1 on the old keyboard and then the new keyboard functions when the OS is booted. But there is no ability to brute force a keyboard to communicate with the system at the POST level through USB unless the system and that USB keyboard are able to handshake at that level. It APPEARS that the handshake happens after this with the newer keyboard when the OS loads the driver.

Is there a way to add extensions to chrome for ANDROID? I want for EXAMPLE to add Malwarebytes browser GUARD to my chrome browser for android.
Whatever is available in the Google Play Store for download is all that I know is available for it. If its not PRESENT there then its probably not available.

My Canon Printer is about two years old. It will not print in blac k anymore. I hve cleaned it and deep cleaned it. I have remov ED the print HEAD and cleaned it. It still will only print colour. I know a new print head is about 40 or 50 dollars and I am not sure if this is the problem. I am thinking it would probably be wise just to get a new printer. Any suggestions? Need...more...info...gasp

Operating system / antivirus &AMP; antispyware protection / service packs INSTALLED / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software?

Have you tried replacing the black ink cartridge with a Canon cartridge / have you changed any settings for the printer RECENTLY / uninstalled reinstalled the printer driver?

Alan <><

The motherboard is an Asus PRIME H410M-E. If I turn the PC on and the monitor is not turned on, the motherboad speaker sends a GPU error BEEP code and does nothing else. If I turn the monitor on after the beeps, the screen is black. It doesn't matter is the monitor is set to the PC HDMI input, it only has to be on for the PC to start. Does somebody know of a BIOS setting that I should CHECK? I tried some power settings and DISABLING "wait for F1 if error". I need to use this PC without a monitor sometimes.Does the monitor have any USB ports? If you have a keyboard or mouse plugged into any USB ports on the monitor, the computer is not going to see them if it is turned off, hence the error beeps.In BIOS there should be an option to boot and not halt for lack of keyboard or mouse present. It should be able to be toggled to NONE or Disabled for Keyboard/Mouse present.

Lastly I did have a setup a ways back that had an ECS motherboard that if monitor was off it couldn't detect it and so instead of the video display going out the PCI Express Video Card, it would default to video out on the Integrated VGA port which was a pain. I ended up giving away this motherboard for free as it had a NUMBER of quality and performance issues.

so I could be wrong, but I'm gonna say you'll probably need a new monitor.

Turn it off, let it dry and see if you got lucky.

Hi everyone,

Yesterday, I had some files transfered from my friends external to my external. There were no apparent problems in doing that. However, we never really opened my hard drive to see if the files were showing up or not.

When I tried to use my external hard drive on my laptop, and other computer running Win xP, the information is not there. The information that was there before the transfer is visible but the information transfered is not.

However, when I check the disk space, I have 11gig free, when I select folders that are visible and check their size it say 16 gigs. My hard drive is 40gig(actually 37gigs).

So the one complication is dissappearanc of almost 10gig, which I am SURE is the info I transfered, but I can't see it. Another complication is that I can't transfer anything else to the hard drive anymore.

I wanted to know how I COULD fix this meaning without having to reformat in NTFS format, or what could be a cause of this problem.

I have never had such a problem with the hard drive before.

Thanks. "However, we never really opened my hard drive to see if the files were showing up or not." I ALWAYS check to see if the data transferred has really been transferred. I first COPY, then if the copy is good then I move, if necessary.

Try reconnecting to your friends computer and verify that the files are on your external drive.

Alan <><

Hello, new to the site. I have an older HP Pavilion commuter and recently obtained a Mac hd display 23inch screen and want to CONNECT to pc if possible? Pc has an NVIDIA GeForce 2 MX 400 graphic card with a VGA output. Tried an adapter but nothing happened. Seems that I need a different card with a DVI output but not too sure which one WOULD be compatible with the pc. Any help appreciated. Thanks. Oh don't confuse me with too much technical JARGON.

First off, my hardware:
Intel i7 7700
NVidia GTX 1080
16 GB Memory
Gigabyte Z270-Gaming K3
1TB magnetic drive

The problem:
GPU runs @40% resulting in very poor FPS in games like Dragon QUEST XI and Final Fantasy XV. I USED MSI Afterburner to test this. However, I TRIED Furmark benchmark and it does HIT 97%, somehow.
Also, I don't know whether related or not, while booting up the system, the dark pre-BIOS screen lingers for 3-4 minutes.

What I have tried so far:
Checked the CPU using burn-in - clean.
Checked the storage using CrystalDiskMark - clean.
Checked CPU temp - max about 80° Celsius. I also renewed the thermal compound.

Please tell me if I can provide more info.You don't mention what "very poor framerate" means, but that GPU usage would be normal based on the GPU requirements for those games.By "very poor framerate" I mean ~30-40 @1080p/highest. Here you can see I can expect ~140 FPS https://www.techpowerup.com/review/dragon-quest-xi-benchmark-performance-test/4.htmlJust wondering, do you have LATEST drivers for your hardware? Newer drivers may help with improving computer performance.Quote from: 2x3i5x on September 10, 2019, 06:22:24 PM

Just wondering, do you have latest drivers for your hardware? Newer drivers may help with improving computer performance.

Lenovo G710
Intel Pentium
NVIDIA 820m
For few weeks now i’ve been trying to get my GPU back. It disappeared after automatic windows update and never came back. I’ve loaded previous VERSIONS of Windows, didn’t help.
I flashed the Bios with the same(latest) version it already had(bios is for win8.1 but it is latest....). I got rid of all graphics related drivers with DDU and reinstalled them. Nothing.
GETTING very desperate already since i’ve tried everything i could’ve think of. Anyone have any insight?
Is the GPU FRIED, so should i get a new motherboard?

Looking for 486 machine(s) that WORK OK, (and/or parts, 3.5 FLOPPY drives, etc.
I run some original software that I really enjoy which I got back when 486 machines were the latest machines available.
The programs I run were written for DOS 3.1, and they run great on that OS.
My original machine is a Vector, though I think any 486 will work if I can LOAD Window 3.1.
Ebay is probably your best bet for old computers like that however depending on how well the computer and components were stored they MAY be good or they might be unreliable. Buy from a source that had good feedback and a return policy if there are any problems.

I use to get these for free each year at a computer recycle "Earth Day" event that a local computer shop use to HOLD. I knew the people who worked there and they allowed me to pick out anything I wanted for free, so it was a great opportunity to grab an old computer for free or newer ones that were dead of which they might just need a power supply etc. As well as good modern guts to stuff into a healthy motherboard and build a new computer cheap.If price is an issue, it is too late.

A 486 machine in good condition will cost more than a refurbished Pentium PC with a warranty. Check it out, eBay has a lot of certified Pentium computers very few old 486 working PCs.

Some have worked out a way to slow down the newer PCs to run old DOS games at the near original speed. Really
https://support.gog.com/hc/en-us/articles/213039445-Game-speed-issues-too-fast-too-slow-uneven-speed-

https://www.howtogeek.com/171945/why-do-old-game-run-way-too-fast-on-modern-computers/

Making a PC run slower is not as easy as you might imagine.

Hello Guys, I have a question, don't know if anyone experienced anything similar.
Specs: Asus Rog Strix GL702ZC
- RX 580
- Ryzen 5 1600
- 8 GB RAM
- Win 10x64
- SSD primary, HDD secondary
- Updated BIOS
- Memory diagnostic no errors
- dxdiag no faults

So about 2 weeks ago I had my GL702ZC cleaned out and repasted because the idle temps were 65+ deg C (CPU and GPU). After the local service center returned the laptop the temps were COOLER but anytime any GPU intensive app was started, the computer would shut down in an instant (Google earth, 8 seconds, video games, 2 seconds, GPU Novabench, 1 second...) if it were on any profile but battery saver since battery saver didn't boost the memory clock to 2000MHz (games still shutdown laptop on bat sav). So I gave it back and they repasted it again. Now every game/3d program can be launched perfectly without shutting down the laptop.
However, new issue arose. The moment the GPU reaches 75-78 deg C, the GPU core clock starts THROTTLING. https://i.ibb.co/NZkpJF1/HWlog.png You can see where the game is launched (temp spike)
If I start a game from cold boot, when the temps are low. Eg, Dota 2 right as the Windows boots (SSD). It will run smoothly and perfectly on highest settings 60 FPS for a short time. As soon (about 10 seconds into the actual gameplay on the map) as the GPU reaches ~75 deg C, the FPS will be all over the place... The "minus" is half a second. (maybe something else is throttling?)
60-20-20-60-60-20-20-60-20-20 FPS and so on and so forth. Jumping wildly ( https://i.ibb.co/hWMMPtg/Log.png this is another log of another test which I started logging as the GPU was throttling).
Next week I'll be getting the laptop to a top class service center (that often fixed soldered GPU/CPU/mobos) for them to do a proper re-paste.
Things that have caught my attention.
- temp jumps by 5-15 degrees in an instant of plugging in the power cord if the laptop is under load (no jump if no load, I'm guessing the boost warms up the chips which should be normal)
-eg. Running Furmark for 10 seconds on battery, lower FPS, ~ 60 C temperature. Plug in the cord. Temperature jumps to 75 in an instant, higher fps, fluctuations and stutters and lags.
(I never ran Furmark for longer than 20 seconds cause it's more stressful than watching the World Cup)
- VRM GPU temp1 is constantly 26 deg C, under any sort of load
- VRM GPU temp2 is 56 C idle and 65 under load, always caps at 65, not a .1 degree more
- GL702ZC had thermal paste on all the VRMs, VRAMs, CPU and GPU out of the factory, but the service crew put thermal pads (too thick/thin?) on VRMs and VRAMs and paste on CPU and GPU.
Any idea why the GPU started throttling so soon and why it's spitting the core clock all over the place? Could it be that the GPU VRMs are badly conducted by pads or an inefficient thermal paste on GPU?

Laptop bought last year.
Before this sh**storm, the laptop could play Witcher 3 on high/ultra at 60 FPS STEADILY. GPU would reach 80-85 degrees and CPU 80-86 degrees while idle temps were 60+
Idle temps now are 48-53 GPU and 50-60 CPU (it will boost itself when opening programs and stuff so warms up from 55 to 60 in a second and then drops).
Dota 2 (highest settings). GPU 75-78 degrees. Sometimes it won't go over 75.000000 deg C, sometimes not over 78.000000 deg C.
CPU 70+ under load.

Any thoughts before I turn in the laptop to the service center? My warranty is expired so no-no on the RMA's or anything. It all started after the opening of the heatsink to re-paste. As I'm writing this I'm noticing that the keyboard above the GPU is quite hot (only thing I've been doing past 2 hours is STUDYING physics so nothing was strained except me) and on the left of it, above the CPU, it's quite cool.
Right now GPU is 60 degrees and CPU is 58-66 (fluctuating depending on clock, 1500MHz->3400MHz) degrees Celsius
GPU VRM temperature1 is 26
GPU VRM temperature2 is 57



Update: https://i.ibb.co/ZJfK2Ck/Novabench-GPU-only.png
You can see the GPU temp spike. I start Novabench GPU only benchmark after a return from a 3h sleep mode (like a cold boot). What is causing such a massive 20 degree spike the moment the GPU boosts itself (apart from Amperes, bad paste?)

EDIT: There is also a coil whine when the FPS rises from 20 back to 120 in the benchmark. Every time the FPS drops to 20 from 120, the coil whine stops, and when it starts rising, occurs. It has been a thing since I bought the laptop, so don't know if it helps. (The FPS goes like this: 120-20-120-20-120-20-120-20 where a dash "-" is approx 1 second)

I've build up a new PC and it frezes up time to time.
The thing that sometimes it happens while playing or 3d modeling sometimes it gust happens. Even if I just turned it on and LEFT as it is. Timing is also random sometimes it's 10-15 minutes, sometimes it's 2-3 hours.
I've installed sofrware that tracks temperature to a file and before freeze it's about 65° for both CPU and GPU.
The symptoms is that the image suddenly freezes, the sound turns to "bzzzzzz" and hdd light turns off.
Please list all the parts you used to build your desktop computer. Including the power supply and the memory chips. And what version of Windows.
GPU: PNY GeForce GTX 1070 Ti
CPU: Intel Core I7-8700K BOX Coffee Lake
Motherboard: ASRock Z390 PRO4
RAM: DIMM 32Gb 2х16Gb DDR4 PC25600 3200MHz Kingston XMP HyperX Fury Red Series
HDD: WD Blue [WD10EZEX] 1tb
SSD: Intel 760p Series [SSDPEKKW512G801] 512 gb
Cooler Noctua NH-D9L
Power: 1000W ZALMAN ZM1000-EBT

ATX Miditower Zalman N2 Black


Don't see that RAM on the QVL list...here it is.

https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z390%20Pro4/index.asp#MemoryHmm
Here it is.
http://prntscr.com/p1jayh


Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 02, 2019, 12:54:28 PM

And what version of Windows.

If you want a fresh INSTALLING, you should have a legit product key for the Windows 10. Otherwise, your best option would be clone system partition to SSD and upgrade to Windows 10 or upgrade to Windows 10 and transfer Windows 10 OS to SSD.

Some have had trouble doing Win 10 on SSD.

Who?

ssd-windows-featured

In this futuristic year of 2019 it’s safe to assume that most tech-savvy Windows 10 USERS have made the switch from SATA hard drives to SSDs – whether by getting a relatively new PC or by doing the upgrade themselves.

Windows 10 has plenty of features that help SSDs operate to their full potential, but it doesn’t always enable them by default. In addition, many of the “must-do” rules from the early days of SSDs aren’t necessarily valid anymore, and we’re going to dispel those here. (You might be particularly surprised to hear that defragging isn’t such a bad idea!)

Hi guys, its been a while, but im back,
So ive recently been trying to use my CRT monitor again, and ive been attempting to fix the fact that at its native resolution the monitor(CRT Technology) its been displaying a dark barely seeable image that is vertically stretched and horizontally squeezed and the image is REAL dark, I can see the desktop of XP, not the taskbar or the top cuz its stretched, but the wird thing is that it works with 600x480 like a normal CRT, but that was not its native resolution, it worked FINE with my old Windows 2000 PC which is out of commission. The monitor is some Proview one probably from the 2000, I cant see a model number nor I can find a website to see the model.
Yes I have tried to Google it but to no avail, any HELP is greatly appreciated.
If there are any more doubts plz ask,
Edit: Model is 570M from 1999Here are some pictures, the higher the resolution the dimmer and more stretched the image gets.Sometimes it's just best to cut the cord on old equipment...
It's not like we could advise on fixing it without you gettin elotrocruted...


Think about it.
I worked on some CRT monitors. Have checked the dials first? There should be dials for brightness, contrast, horizontal and vertical size, and position, check them first, before continuing.
The next part is REALLY unsafe, if you don't know what you're doing, stop!!
Before opening a CRT, be sure to wait for some time after TURNING it off(at least a day).
You can try to check the caps on the board of the monitor. Especially the ones used to generate the deflection signals. You can also check the heater voltage.Well, I am confident I will be able to attempt to fix it without getting electrocuted, as I have time to wait, I don't want to give up on this good old monitor that has served me so well.
I just want to know if someone has had a similar issue and whether it could be software related, such as drivers or something.
ThanksI've never had simmilar issue with any of the CRTs in my collection. Could you please post a photo showing the issue?Pretty sure its wise to wait a tad bit more than a day, my pics are awaiting approval.
but yeah i already planned to do a visual inspection on the circuit board, and hopefully i can find a service manual for it, yeah i cheked the dials, no luck.All right. If your monitor was made sometime around the year 2000, it might be dead because of the capacitor plague. I've had multiple motherboards from that time period die on me, all because of electrolytic capacitors. You should check for capacitors boulging from the top as well as the bottom. Before doing anything with the insides of the CRT, you should also discharge the anode by putting a screwdriver attached to the chassis ground under the anode cap, just in case In my opinion, it's great that you try to keep this monitor running for as long as possible.There's your possible electrocution instructions right there....Quote

There's your possible electrocution instructions right there....

My laptop is Dell g7 i7 8750h with gtx 1060 max q. A while ago I undervolted and underclocked my CPU by -100 on both core and cache and clock speed to 3.6 GHz but while playing games like Apex legends my CPU speed drops to 2 to 2.9 GHz which I THINK should be higher. Help me find the fix. Thank youStop foolin with clock speeds fer starters...Quote from: Sudiip08 on August 31, 2019, 03:43:31 PM

My laptop is Dell g7 i7 8750h with gtx 1060 max q. A while ago I undervolted and underclocked my CPU by -100 on both core and cache and clock speed to 3.6 GHz but while playing games like Apex legends my CPU speed drops to 2 to 2.9 GHz which I think should be higher. Help me find the fix. Thank you

the first pic is during the gameplay and it shows 2.4 ghz cpu speed and the SECOND pic is while i m in the lobby and cpu speed is 3.9 ghz. there is marked diff in cpu speed. how this happens and how to fix?

Hi All,
I'm new here, but I have a Thermaltake Element G Mid Tower ATX CASE.
I love it. I'd like to improve the COOLING of my RYZEN 2700X system, in preparation
of upgrading to a Ryzen 3000 series chip at some point.
I'm having trouble figuring out what AIO cooling solution will fit in my case, and where.
If anyone has this case, or is good with this type of thing, could you lend your EXPERTISE please?
Here is a link to the case and it's specifications: https://www.thermaltake.com/C_00001440.htm?id=C_00001440

Thank you in advance for your kind assistance,

Silver

Hey everyone, I’ve read that the z370 got a bios update that would support the 9700k i7’s. Does anyone know if the update has been applied out of the box? I’m looking to buy a new mobo and an i7 but I don’t currently have a 1151 socket cpu. Would I be able to use the 9700k without first updating the mobo? ThanksAppvalley TutuApp Tweakbox

My laptop (Dell Inspiron 15, Windows 10, purchased January 2019) wireless Internet connection is lost randomly about a dozen or so times per day. It seems primarily to happen when watching a video on Youtube, but I think I've seen it happen at other times as well.

The network adapter is a Qualcomm QCA 61x4A 801.11ac.

An Android phone connected to the same Wifi network maintains its connection when my laptop's connection is dropped, so I'm assuming it's not the connection itself or the router.

What I've tried so far (note: none of these things have WORKED):

- Uninstalling and re-installing the driver
- Disabling and re-enabling the adapter
- Changing power management options to prevent the computer from disabling the adapter
- Rolling back to an earlier driver (this fixed a similar issue on an older laptop, but for this one, there was no earlier driver; computer was purchased Jan. 2019 and the earliest and only driver available was from August 2018)
- Looking for UPDATES directly from the Dell driver site (none were available)
- Resetting the network connection
- Turning off bluetooth
- Changing the network from PUBLIC to private
- Turning the router off and then on again
- Using another browser (was happening on Chrome, but Firefox didn't seem to be any different)

Rebooting the computer or manually disconnecting and re-connecting to the network always works to RESTORE the connection, but obviously doing this a dozen times a day represents a significant inconvenience and loss of time.

The only other idea that comes to mind is to TRY purchasing one of those external USB network cards, in case the problem is coming from the actual Dell Qualcomm network adapter. But before spending money on that, I'm hoping someone might have an idea about the cause and/or solution for the above.

Thanks in advance.

I have an old 486 computer and accidentally messed up the autoexec.bat. Now the computer will not get past a "positioner" screen from a company called Wegoma. I can get get the computer to boot to "A" prompt from a floppy DRIVE with DOS 3.2 but it will not recognize the "C" drive.
Am I out of luck ever getting this HDD to work again?What size hard drive does it have and depending on the 486's bios you may need to set how many heads and sector and cylinder settings to get it to work. DOS 3.2 also has partition size limitations.

Can you share the contents of the autoexec.bat file here for us to see as well since you modified it to see what you have going on. Also if you have a config.sys file the contents of that as well.The drive was working until I started messing with autoexec. Now the screen freezes as I previously described. I can access the the CMOS setup and the proper HDD settings are there.

When I boot from the floppy and select C:\ I get the MESSAGE "invalid drive specification".

I greatly appreciate any help you can give me.....................JimPower down...disconnect the HDD...do a cold boot without it...power back down and re-connect.
See what happens.
Unfortunately it's likely the drive has failed.
To test this DLoad and make a bootable floppy with the HDD diags FREE from the manuf. site...

PS i would also put in a new CMOS battery since it's an older PC...Part # CR2032...available anywhere...3 Bucks. Remove all power when doin so.

PSS...if the C: drive does come back to life you have an autoexec.bak and config.sys.bak file to use for replacements for what you modified...I did try your suggestion re powering down but no help. This drive is very old made by a company called Areal, which I am sure is out of business.
From what you say I assume I do not have a bootable floppy even though I can get to the"A:" prompt. I think I verified this by trying the floppy on a working machine with same result of not being to reach the "C:" drive.

I did replace the CMOS battery.

Do you have other suggestions as to how I can access this PATA drive. The computer has no USB or other port.You could pull the drive and connect it in a working desktop PC as a slave to see if it'll do anything but i have no hope for it judgin by what you stated...You should be able to skip config.sys and autoexec.bat by pressing F5 while it shows "Starting MS-DOS ..." and is booting from the HDD.

Or get a later version of MS-DOS onto a Floppy Diskette- DOS 3.2 cannot work with partitions larger than 32MB. That should allow you to access the C: drive when booting from the floppy.Hi
The computer seems to be from an Industrial machine perhaps a wood working router. The error "positioner" screen error is it has had the lines removed from the Autoexec.bat file to configure the controller card or the card is missing or faulty .
When doing changes to these files it is a good idea to use the rem command to stop the computer from running the lines instead of deleting lines . You can also add a comment after the rem commend to help later.
As an example " rem (removed to check boots with this line missing 30/8/19) " , just remove the rem and the BRACKETED info if you want to re enable the line.

Quote from: patio on August 27, 2019, 03:56:56 PM

PSS...if the C: drive does come back to life you have an autoexec.bak and config.sys.bak file to use for replacements for what you modified...

Can you share the contents of the autoexec.bat file here for us to see as well since you modified it to see what you have going on. Also if you have a config.sys file the contents of that as well.

Hi All,

I'm having some instability issues with my new build that I was hoping I could get some help with. This is a completely new build, and UNFORTUNATELY, I don't have old parts I can troubleshoot with.
My PC will spontaneously hard crash (restart) while playing some games. No blue screen or error message. It is very reliable with Warhammer Vermintide 2. It will crash ~15 to 30 mins in on different maps.

I'll also hard crash while playing the Witcher 3. This happens every couple of hours (8 hours since the last crash). In each case, it is a full restart with no error message.
With Dota 2 I have had no crashed yet despite playing it much more than Vermintide. I have also had no crashes with any other use of the PC. No overclocking done at all.

From the most recent crash with Vermintide II.
Event LOG: The previous SYSTEM shutdown at 18:26:46 on ‎16/‎08/‎2019 was unexpected. The system has rebooted WITHOUT cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.

What I've tried so far:

Used DDU to uninstall and reinstall my drivers. No change. Reinstalled Windows, no change.
Used memtest86 to test RAM. Left it overnight. No errors.
Used prime95 to test my CPU. No issues. CPU temps will go up to around 70°C when under full load.
Ran 3D mark demo. No issues. GPU temps will go up to around 75-80°C with Vermintide 2. 70°C with the Witcher 3.
Reset Radeon settings to default.
Set DRAM to 2800HHz (instead of auto)
Had a big desktop fan blowing into the case.

Temp of other components isn't extreme either:
System:36°C, PCH: 35°C, MOS: 40°C, Internal SSD 55°C.

I do not have an old build I can swap parts with to narrow it down. I don't know what to try next now... Everything is still on warranty but the problem is I don't know what the issue is.

Any help with what to troubleshooting ideas would very much appreciate.

Windows 10, Education

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
Motherboard: MSI B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard Had to use BIOS Flashback
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
VIDEO Card: XFX Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card
Power supply: Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
Hi
Can you check your bios version is 7B86vA8 Release Date 2019-07-10 or later for support for your CPU ?

Thanks