Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

Hello, I am CURRENTLY trying to buy a atx power supply but I don't know if it will WORK with my motherboard PLEASE HELP!
http://www.findlaptopdriver.com/mainboard-0hy9jp-dell-specifications/(Motherboard specs)
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-VS650-Certified-Non-Modular-Supply/dp/B078HJ2RCW/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=05277531PNEH2N1V5TNW(power supply)No reason to double Post...Topic closed,

Hello, I am rather new to computers and need help ORDERING a new power supply that wont mess with my motherboard as I have read that ATX power supplies don't work on dell MOTHER boards. Can anyone please help?
I have a Dell HY9JP Optiplex 790 motherboard.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-VS650-Certified-Non-Modular-Supply/dp/B078HJ2RCW/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_... (This is the power supply I am BUYING it says it has 24 pin connectors)
http://www.findlaptopdriver.com/mainboard-0hy9jp-dell-specifications/ (These are the motherboard specs)Dell PSU's were propietary...you had better check the pinouts before frying a perfectly good board...just sayinYou should be able to source the same Dell PSU that failed from the following link.

https://www.amazon.com/s?bbn=1161760&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A193870011%2Cn%3A17923671011%2Cn%3A1161760%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906982011%2Cp_89%3ADell&dc&fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1558300763&rnid=2528832011&ref=sr_in_-2_p_89_7

This may be the one you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Optiplex-D250AD-00-Power-Supply/dp/B00EMZTL40/ref=sr_1_24?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1558301227&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906982011%2Cp_89%3ADell&rnid=2528832011&s=pc&sr=1-24

Hello everyone,,
I know lots about computers but need input on Dedicated Graphics for gaming... I got $600 absolute max to spend on a laptop and I was gonna buy a current model and have DECIDED that current models are too much and an overkill for the games I wanna play..... I will not be buying any AMD Graphics or AMD CPU since I think they are crappier (some of you may love them and I respect that) and they're not my strong area... I know Intel and Nvidia better... I will not be getting any 10 series GTX cards as they are also out of budget and overkill for GTA SA and GTA 4 (maybe GTA 5 in future)... I was wanting to if I can get away with a 7th gen intel i7 and Geforce 940MX or should I go with a 5th gen i5 and Geforce 840M both with 8 or 16 gb of ram and SSD or if you have any suggestions please leave them! both computers are 14" models.... seems dedicated graphics only mostly come in 14" and 17" laptops and not so much on 15" laptops

What about buying a refurb laptop with a warranty and an NVidia GTX card in it that would stretch the performance you can get for that $600? It would be able to handle those games as well as potentially newer titles if something comes out that you have interest in.

Some people say absolutely NO to buying a used computer, but I have saved lots of money by buying second hand higher end computer components and whole used computers from trusted sources and you can get a bargain on better performance hardware by not paying the premium of new. Only drawback to used laptops is that the keyboards on them usually show some wear pattern in them from heavy keystrokes, so I usually go for desktop computers that are used vs a laptop that is usually sold with worn keyboard from prior user(s) heavy typing.

If interested in some gaming laptops that are refurbs for $600 I can look ONLINE and try to find you some.

Here is an example of what $600 can get you if you buy a refurb laptop. But this is sold out currently: https://www.newegg.com/shale-black-acer-nitro-5-an515-51-5082-gaming-entertainment/p/1TS-000X-00S56?Item=9SIACA16JV4581

and one with newer 8th gen CPU with a HDD vs SSD: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16834316560?Item=9SIACA18P57250

Lastly the $600 budget is pretty tight for a Gaming Laptop budget but it can be done. You can cut cost of a laptop even further if you take the risk of buying through ebay. But I dont buy computers through ebay, I only buy used components there like RAM or a CPU etc to cut corners in cost of a build but by which the health of the part can be determined quickly and if I get burned I am only out like $10 or $20 etc which makes it worth the gamble to save like $40 from elsewhere. I do look at the feedback ratings of sellers and if they have like 500+ positive feedbacks and seem legit i will spend more money at those sellers on ebay with lesser risk of getting burned.

Another place that i buy parts from is Amazon and they also sell refurb computers as well as used computers that aren't cleaned up as much as a refurb would be. I used Amazon for buying a used PlayStation 3 for example for $75 for my daughter when the PS3 she had cooked and died in summer heat while running. Everywhere else the used PS3's were like $130+. i took the gamble of buying a used PS3 through amazon and it paid off I just needed to go through an ownership process with Playstation Network and once I proved I was owner of the system it was then linked to my games and all set to go as I found out that PlayStations that are used are still registered to prior owner and until you get it registered with your account its a paperweight. But 25 minute tech support and all better with it registered as ours vs prior owner of GASMAN of all names That tight of a budget- and since you said you don't want a current model- would certainly put refurbished and used systems on your list of possibilities.

But because of that it is difficult to make any specific recommendation. The former you LISTED (i7 + 940MX) would likely have better performance If they both fit within the budget. Even if the i7 has 8GB it is probably better to go for that and possibly upgrade to 16GB LATER in time.

I used to have this 2009 Dynex 32 inch TV and every time i pressed a key from the keyboard of the pc tied to it while it was off, the tv turned on like a charm.
I bought myself a 40 in SAMSUNG UN40NU7100FXZC and noticed it doesnt, and I wondered if something could be done about it, like ADDING a push application or something to the registery.
Because if I wake from sleep my sony PS4, the tv WAKES without an issue

You can me a program file directory:
"Program Files"
"Pro-Files"
"Mi Porgy"

Or what ever you like.

There's no real reason to split things across drives, assuming your C: SSD is large enough I'd install all software to that in the default location suggested by the installer then use other drives for storing large files that can't fit in the C: drive.

Hello. I have a system of
16 GB ram. AMD Ryzen 1600 Six core 3.40 GHz, Nvidia geforce RTX 2070. 1tb hdd, 500 ssd. My graphics HANDLING should be fine, I play on a 32 inch 4k monitor. I use 3840 x 2160 resolution for standard. I try to play most games on this resolution as WELL, but they all crash. If I decrease the quality to approximately "low" or "medium", only then it doesn't crash on me. I do not understand what part of my computer is failing to let me play these games. I can reduce the resolution of a game to 1920x1080 and play windowed, it only takes a side of the monitor, but if I increase the quality of the graphics any further than low, it starts crashing. Could it be an issue with internet? I use a wifi adapter, which I know isn't the best but it never lags or such. I do not believe it could be the graphics card, since this problem has been persisting with my old GPU as well (GTX 1060), but now that I upgraded, it's STILL crashing all the same. Also recently upgraded power supply and got the ssd I mentioned. In case it was a corrupt disk of my HDD, I put all the games and apps into the SSD, but that had no influence on crashing. Another thing to mention, when I turn on highest graphics on a game, 4k resolution. Most cases it runs 60fps, but still crashes. I have ensured all the drivers are UPDATED. Any idea what might be the issue?You don't say what motherboard you are using?
Perhaps if you are still needing a solution you could run Speccy

https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

And go file then publish snapshot and copy the link to the REPORT here.
From the report there is lots of information but nothing which will identify you or your computer.

Please DO NOT copy the report here !!!! just the link only.

When i push power all the fans go on, but the monitor stays black.

I recently put in a new motherboard (and PSU), trying to fix it not booting at all. Before that everything was working perfectly for 5 years.

The only difference with this new motherboard is instead of there being an 8 pin CPU power connector on the motherboard, there is a 4-pin labeled ATX_12V. I don't have a cable from the PSU that fits it, I tried booting without it and with half of the 8-pin cpu cable, but STILL no GFX, no beep codes, nothing. The fans just keep spinning and the monitor keeps doing nothing.

Motherboard: Gigabyte 970A-DS3P
GFX: GIGABYTE GTX 770
RAM: 3 x DDR3
PSU: corsair cs750 (new)

starting to lose hope.
If the card needs ab 8pin cable you need a PSU with an 8 pin cable...

BTW THATS a PSU that i would not choose...Are you sure? Do I seriously have to buy yet another PSU? I just bought one to try to fix this only to discover it wasn't the PSU. It's a modular one so maybe i can just GET a cable?
I bought that PSU because it's cheap, I'm not trying to build the best computer, I'm just trying to get this to run.

Also, it's not the card, it's the motherboard, and it doesn't need an 8-pin cable, it needs 4-pin (I assume).In this case there is no problem using 1/2 the 8 pin connector for the ATX 12v. The motherboard is getting older was it new ?

Also is the CPU on the motherboard list here is the list

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-970A-DS3P-rev-2x#support-cpu

Also the old motherboard not booting at all how was that diagnosed to the motherboard being faulty? Could it be a faulty CPU ?

Also can you check the SPECS on the memory as it shouldn't be low power.

Hello everyone. I just BUILT myself a new computer, and it starts, but nothing shows up on my monitor. All the case fans start up, the cpu fan starts up, the gpu fans start up, lights are showing, but nothing shows up on the monitor.

I have tried replugging every cable, along with the GPU and RAM. Ive tried using one DVI cable and one HDMI cable from the gpu to the monitor. I have tried reseting the CMOS. i have tried starting with only 1 ram stick seated. Not sure where to go from here, any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

Heres the specs:
i5-9600KF (no integrated graphics)
RTX 2060
Gigabyte Aorus z390i wifi
Samsung evo 970 plus 500gb m.2 ssd
Corsair SF600
Corsair Vegeance lpx 2666mhz 2x8gb

Hi

Please CHECK on the motherboard serial number label, the bios revision it needs to version F5 or later to SUPPORT your 9th generation CPU. Everything else looks COMPATIBLE. Quote from: Lisa_maree on May 21, 2019, 02:03:28 AM

Hi

Please check on the motherboard serial number label, the bios revision it needs to version F5 or later to support your 9th generation CPU. Everything else looks compatible.

Is there an article or something that pointed you to this terminology?

Looking at the wiki, I found Scratch Space and statement of "Scratch space is commonly used in graphic design programs". Remembers your other post about 1080p so I guess you saw it somewhere in relation to that.

Computers Cache information as well as Drives are used for temporary storage to assist the systems memory (RAM) with an additional space to write information and read it back in whats known as swap space as well as paging space.

Google searched this stuff and found Scratch Space which is probably the Scratch Drive you were mentioning.

Scratch Drive = https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scratch_space

I am totally lost with what you have stated with "and roll" to these. Not sure what the Roll is referring to.

All Bunk...waste of time

What is a Media Cache Drive and roll?

What is a Scratch Drive and roll?

What is a Caching Drive and roll?
What is a Cache Drive and roll?

Used by Adobe Premiere for temporary files.Used by Adobe Photoshop for temporary files. Also a few other programs. Basically they allow you to configure the location they will use for Temporary files, instead of using the temporary files folder.
Same as above. These are also the same.

What is a Scratch Drive and roll?

Do you mean role?

You need to settle down...this isn't always live. The Volunteers here come and go so relax a bit...willya ? ?

Other programs? I have searched CyberLink info. for Power Director 16 on the creation of temporary files and so on, if the information is there I'm still missing it, I'll check again.

Is this like creating a Temporary Files folder on another drive other than the default Temporary Files folder on drive C the OS drive?

So I shoot some footage/files with a camera/video camera and install it onto the computer but I don't put the files on the OS+Software Drive C, I put all the video files on (Drive D, 4TB HDD Storage) and work on the files on (Drive E, Video Editing/Working Files). Is there a Scratch Drive here? Is there a Media Cache Drive here?

They call the place they store temporary files and cache information (eg. Processed video content for say previews) a Media Cache drive. I'm not sure what you expect to find in the manual. They aren't going to outline how they create temporary files otherwise.

Kind of. However The Temporary Files folder (%TEMP%) points at one specific location and applies to all applications. Video editing software (and a few other types of software) create very large files for temporary use and the speed that they can be accessed directly impacts performance, so applications provide options for changing them if the defaults cause performance problems.

Certain applications create very large temporary files which are accessed by the software and which directly impact the performance of the application. and as a result they allow the location to which those temporary files are stored to. That's it. There is no such thing as a "scratch drive" or a "Media cache drive" as actual physical things a computer has. These are just whatever term the application developer(s) have decided to label it's "custom" temporary files location setting. They typically don't need to be drives and they most certainly don't need to be mutually exclusive with one another.

They call the place they store temporary files and cache information (eg. Processed video content for say previews) a Media Cache drive. I'm not sure what you expect to find in the manual. They aren't going to outline how they create temporary files otherwise.

Kind of. However The Temporary Files folder (%TEMP%) points at one specific location and applies to all applications. Video editing software (and a few other types of software) create very large files for temporary use and the speed that they can be accessed directly impacts performance, so applications provide options for changing them if the defaults cause performance problems.

Certain applications create very large temporary files which are accessed by the software and which directly impact the performance of the application. and as a result they allow the location to which those temporary files are stored to. That's it. There is no such thing as a "scratch drive" or a "Media cache drive" as actual physical things a computer has. These are just whatever term the application developer(s) have decided to label it's "custom" temporary files location setting. They typically don't need to be drives and they most certainly don't need to be mutually exclusive with one another.

Desktop PC auto restart while in use, then in the progress of booting up, it restart again, and again, and again... so frequent that not able to reach Windows sign in screen, I turned it off now, sending this message with a netbook. Now I have two options in mind, fix it or buy a new one. I want to ask, if I un-screw it and take the power unit out, and buy a new one based on its size, can problems be solved then? I'm worrying that, the problem is not in the power unit, but something or somewhere else. I do not want to take it to repair shop again. Please give me any suggestion.Yulan you might try to purchase a simple power supply tester like this one for about $5. They are in Asia/China/Taiwan etc & delivery may an issue, speed wise, however you might find a local one that could deliver quicker.

Seeing your thinking of digging into the case/power supply yourself, this may assist providing a quick diagnostic without a total removal.

Sensibly you would disconnect the power supply from the wall before opening the case & tinkering within. Personal Safety is key to getting inside a computer.

Yulan, another source of problems relating to restarting, I've found, were related to the heat sink cream on the chip itself having dried out & the chip overheats. How old is the unit?

One way I have used to cool a computer is to have a small fan aimed at the unit maybe with something to lift the case up from the desk surface to give a good airflow. Using something like a couple of textas or magic markers some ashtrays etc should be enough. ( Not a box )

See where that gets you. Hope my suggestions are of value to you.


Quote from: yulan on June 29, 2019, 01:50:56 AM

Desktop PC auto restart while in use, then in the progress of booting up, it restart again, and again, and again... so frequent that not able to reach Windows sign in screen, I turned it off now, sending this message with a netbook. Now I have two options in mind, fix it or buy a new one. I want to ask, if I un-screw it and take the power unit out, and buy a new one based on its size, can problems be solved then? I'm worrying that, the problem is not in the power unit, but something or somewhere else. I do not want to take it to repair shop again. Please give me any suggestion.

Hello, built myself a new pc, and ran into some issues with my GPU - RTX 2060. The fans seem to SPIN on 100% (or atleast very fast), and it lights up, but it does not output anything to my monitor. I have tried both HDMI and DVI cable

I was able to boot using integrated graphics, and downloaded drivers from nvidias website for my RTX 2060, but it still wont output anything.

Any suggestions for solutions to this?Is your monitor plugged in and/or turned on?
What type of monitor is it?
Is the monitor making any type of odd sound?
MAYBE check the bios to SEE if possibly stuck on integrated graphics? Also can you give some more details of the rest of the build or you could run speccy using the on board graphics and publish the results then copy the link to the report here. As the GPU is so new there may be problems with compatibility with other parts.

Also you do have the 8 PIN power cable plugged in to the RTX 2060 ?

link to Speccy https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

Why does my new WD external 4TB drive, after copying some files to it, show size:45.3GB, and size on disk:103GB?

The drive that the files were copied from show size:45.3GB, and size on disk:45.5GB.

I've called WD tech support, they have no idea of why that is.

I've used many WD external drives over the years, this is the first time this has happened.

Anyone KNOW?

Win 7
Not sure what you did...how did you copy/move those files ? ?Western Digital ship their drives formatted exfat. This is so they work on Mac's and PC's. Exfat uses a different cluster size to NTFS on windows 7

Exfat is 128KB per cluster and NTFS is 4KB per cluster.
For example :So if you have a 16KB file saved to an NTFS drive it will use 4 clusters even. If the same file is saved to an exfat drive it will use one 128KB cluster wasting 112KB.

So normally exfat formatted drives use more drive space to store the same files as fat and NTFS. As it is only a few GB's for EVERY TB of data it is a small price to pay for universal compatibility.I copied the files the normal way, right click on the files, drag to new drive and click 'copy' I told the WD tech that the drive was formatted exFAT, and if that was the issue...he SAID 'no'. But, I think it is, as all my other drives are NTSF. Maybe I need to save my current data(not very much as the drive is new), format to NTSF, then copy the saved files back? The reason WD ships the drive as exfat is it is larger than the 2TB limit for NTFS. If you want to format the drive NTFS you will either need to set it up GPT which is only supported by windows 7 SP2 and later PC operating systems and then make a partition of 4TB or split the drive into 2 partitions of 2TB.

What is the problem with using exfat ?

I'm amazed after i explained about cluster size ETC in my last post and you still believe the WD tech Quote from: Lisa_maree on July 04, 2019, 01:06:47 AM

The reason WD ships the drive as exfat is it is larger than the 2TB limit for NTFS.

What is the problem with using exfat ?

But exFAT (like other FATs) lacks a journal, and so it easily gets corrupted when the volume is not unmounted or ejected in a proper way.”

As it says in the subject, I recently built a pc, the only thing is that I have 0 knowledge of what the absolute *censored* is going on. It's giving me the error of "USB device over current status detected system will shutdown after 15 seconds," and I don't exactly know whether it was some mistake I made, or if it was some faulty/damaged part. Below is a list of parts, and the link is the error message "https://gyazo.com/e9319907a8009456c1a65687216f2b1b"SEE guide here

https://appuals.com/fix-usb-device-over-current-status-detected/

Have you really got two keyboards attached?

no, for some reason when i plug in my keyboard it says i have 2 keyboards and a mouse, then when i plug my mouse into my keyboard it says i have 3 keyboards and a mouse lol. Also, regarding that guide, I've already Solution 1 & 2; for 3, it won't open bios after del or f2; I'll try 4; I don't really want to by another motherboard, and I heard that it's pretty difficult/complicated to get a replacement from ASUS.Tried different keyboard?kinda the only keyboard i got :? ig i could try returning it and see if another one would work.What happens if you boot with no keyboard?
no DIFFERENCE, already tried itDisconnected front & back USB headers from motherboard?
If you have experienced a usb over current, to reset the USB thermal fuses you need to disconnect the MAINS power for up to 5 minutes to allow the fuse / fuses to cool and reset.

Just read a post on another forum which said to NEVER,EVER de-frag an SSD. Poster claimed it will cut service life in half. Is this true?A SSD?
No need to de-frag. The OS does whatever is needed.You don't need to defrag SSDs so just don't do it but if PEOPLE make claims like it "halving the life of the drive" they are DEFINITELY exaggerating or just making up statistics.Camerongray,
I agree.
Why people start myths is a mystery.
Using their LOGIC,one MIGHT SAY;
- "use you PC only one day a week and 'twill last twice as long."
Chocoholic non sense.

is my GPU dead ?

Hello I have a PC with an MSI R9 290 in it
Two wings from one of the two fans about two months ago and I USED a software (MSI afterburner) to limit my fan speed so that it wont make a lot of noise and vibration but without letting the temps go too crazy as they usually are around the 74-82C depending on the room temp.
Please note that I don't play that much anymore and my gaming sessions don't exceed 3 hours.
Yesterday I was playing a game (fortnite) and I died so I got really mad and hit my desk, my computer immediately shut down and when I tried to start it after it just kept rebooting without anything showing up on the SCREEN, when I took my graphics card out, my PC works fine..
I opened the GPU and nothing looked fried and no smell or anything and when I put it back in my PC it still won't start but please note that the fans do spin.
I am willing to provide any pictures if needed.
Thank you all.""so I got really mad and hit my desk, ""

Start lookin for a new card...Hi

A few things to check before getting a new card. You have the 6 and 8 pin cables plugged into the card ? These come direct from the power supply no adapters y cables etc? the power supply is a good quality 750 watt or higher?
The motherboard power led is out before you removed/ inserted like the powersupply was turned off on the mains side.
If not then try removing and inserting the gpu with the POWER OFF.
Insure you are CONNECTING monitor via the display port or dvi connectors without adapters. These should be plugged in before turning on the power this is to allow the bios to detect the display connection is no longer to the motherboard but on the R9 card.
keep us posted

Hi again

Yes please to the pictures , thanks Quote from: Salmon Trout on June 20, 2019, 06:37:35 AM

Hi, spammer.

Hello all

I’m trying to build two systems, one gaming and the other a workstation. In the case of lighting; I just want to know if Corsair Dominator PLATINUM RGB and or Vengeance RGB is compatible with MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON and MSI x299 Raider / CREATION. And if any what would be a SUITABLE replacement. Mind you, I choose these motherboards because of their features.

Thanks for your help, it’s appreciated!
Both MBoards have whats called a QVL list...this is a list of lab tested RAM for each board...
I suggest highly choosing from that list for each.

hi

I'm WRITING a configuration for a workstation and I wanted to know if these COMPONENTS would bottleneck. MSI x299 CREATION, Core I7-7800X, Nvidia Quadro RTX 5000 and ram 64gb 3200mhz DDR4. any information will be helpful, thanks a LOT!BOTTLENECKING is a myth with todays components...

If it MAKES you feel better yes it's gonna bottleneck big time...

Hello, my hard drive started slowing down a lot (while trying to open games and such) and it even takes a bit to open up files in it. Whenever i have something open such as file explorer to just skim the files its usage is at 100% for some reason. I wanted to know if someone knew what might be causing it to slow AND if i can image/clone it? because i tried dragging and dropping files but it takes way too long. It was copying less than 1mb a sec. and i need to copy 1.3tbs over to the new 4tb hard drive i just bought.Size of the HDD ? ?
How much used space ? ?Disk Utilization/Active time is effectively based on how much time of an I/O request is spent waiting for the drive. This usually maps directly to how frequently the disk is being accessed and how quickly.

The red flag, however, is in your image- the active time is at 98%, but the read speed is only 1.3MB/s. What that means is that after asking for Data the system is sitting and twiddling it's thumbs waiting for the drive to retrieve it, and the reason it takes longer is likely due to disk failure, as a result of the drive having to re-read sectors and/or re-read data in order to service the I/O requests, during which time it is considered "active" by the OS.

What this means overall is that the drive is failing, if not already failed. As far as Copying data- You might be able to use a partition clone tool such as Macrium Reflect to clone the partition to the 4TB. But I wouldn't expect too much.
Appreciate the help and clarification. I was going to clone it with that same software but i dont know how long it will take. Manually dragging over pictures and small documents in groups of 3 or 4 has been working and is fast. but when i TRY to do a bigger file it takes forever. Even just trying to delete something from it and then delete it from my recycle bin takes forever. Is there any way to get more speed out of it so i can do the cloning or dragging? Or should i just go ahead and try the clone. Im fine with reinstalling things i just want to keep data, like save games and mods.
Also the size of the previous hdd was 2tb with only about have of it being used.Also to clarify i have my os and other important things related to windows on my c drive SSD. Ive used resource monitor and anything related to my d drive has long response times.The Seagate ST2000MD01 drive you are copying from had a high incident rate for weak head or heads. You need to only run the drive when you have a good plan of the steps to take to TRANSFER your data as the longer you try, the nearer you come to the drive not working and needing special equipment to recover. If you load a trial of HDSentinel this will DIAGNOSE the 2 TB and confirm the weak head, it's available from here

https://www.hdsentinel.com/hard_disk_sentinel_trial.php

Linux is a better option for working with a drive with slow access and i would suggest a live boot of clonezilla check it out with the 2 TB disconnected, say copy your SSD to the 4 TB to get a feel for the software.

https://clonezilla.org/


Does the disk sentinel just help me see the health of my drives? or can it help with the data transfer? Also is there a better way to data transfer? lkike a service or something? i would honestly pay for this. Right now ive been looking through it and grabbing important files for my games. its taking a really LONG timeTried a brand new data cable yet ? ?I have not tried a new cable but disk sentinel is telling me its at 5% health and has weak/bad sectors.Quote from: Pudgemiester on July 01, 2019, 05:02:36 AM

Also is there a better way to data transfer? lkike a service or something?

Hello, my hard drive started slowing down a lot (while trying to open games and such) and it even takes a bit to open up files in it. Whenever i have something open such as file explorer to just skim the files its usage is at 100% for some reason. I wanted to know if someone knew what might be causing it to slow AND if i can image/clone it? because i tried dragging and dropping files but it takes way too long. It was copying less than 1mb a sec. and i need to copy 1.3tbs over to the new 4tb hard drive i just bought.

Hi there.I have a wierd issue that i have not seen before.My USB keyboard starts acting up and i can`t understand why. I`m using a laptop that has a DEAD keyboard.So i use an external usb keyboard .Some times, this usb keyboard stops working.I press a key and nothing is happening. If i press the key for a long time i MIGHT GET a letter or multiple letters. I thought it was my ubs hub acting up.Got a new one today , unninstalled all the usb drivers, restarted the laptop , plugged the usb hub in and everything worked fine for hours.Until 5 mins ago, when it decided to screw me over.The wierd part is that now i`m righting this on a different USB keyboard , that used to act the same wierd way on the old usb hub.
I had the exact same issue on my second laptop....help ? I suspect the hub...to test plug the keyboard up direct...

I took my laptop into my office because I was syncing a large amount of files in Google Drive and it was taking forever on my WiFi at home and my boss suggested I plug into to the office internet with an ethernet cord to make it faster. I have an HP Spectre 360 Convertible and it does not have an ethernet port so my boss had bought a converter (USB-C to ethernet) for me a while back on Amazon to use whenever I went into the office and this was the first TIME I had ever used it. I took the ethernet cord that was plugged into another device and plugged it into the converter and turned my computer on and got a blue SCREEN with an error message that had a frowny face (I don’t remember what it said) and then the 3F0 Boot device not found error. I thought maybe I should go have plugged it in before turning it on, so I turned it off, unplugged it snd restarted it and it was working fine, so I plugged it back in and saw that I was connected to the internet and after about 30 SECONDS to a minute, the blue screen again and then black. Now I just get the black screen and it won’t reboot. I have never had one issue with this laptop ever. It’s less than 3 years old and I can’t help but think plugging it in caused this. Is that possible? I see no other explanation and it’s too big of a coincidence for it not to be connected. I’ve tried all of the fixes I found online and nothing works. The Ethernet cord I used came from a box that had another ethernet cord going into it. I could go back and see exactly what the box is if that would help. Thanks in advance for any info you can provide!!!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻That sounds like there may be a bad connection with the boot drive or that it failed in a catastrophic manor. What type of storage device does it use (SSD, HDD, etc)?

Have you tried looking at the system information in the firmware for clues? On HP laptops, I think you access it by holding either ESCAPE or F1 on startup.

i NEED to convert my phones INTERNAL memory drive to an external removable one and what i mean by that is i want it to be READ by my PC as an external removable drive not portable device
You don't say if the phone is Apple or Android. On an android phone you need to enable USB debugging in the developer options then the memory shows as a drive.
If you GOOGLE your ....phone model USB debugging it will explain the procedure.Here is one way.
https://www.kingoapp.com/root-tutorials/how-to-enable-usb-debugging-mode-on-android.htm

Hi! pls help, Today I connected my hard drive to another computer, and it got corrupted, I tried to fix it using CMD PROMPT but it didn't work, I would love if there is a way i can fix it without losing my data, Thanks in advance.First check the used CAPACITY of the hard drive and total size of the files & FOLDERS which has different characters as filename. If there is a difference in the size,
Open your drive in windows explorer.
Goto > Tools > Folder Options > click on View tab > Select Show hidden files, folder & Drives And uncheck "hide protected operating system files".
Click Apply and then click ok.
Re-check if you can see all your data?Hi

It's hard to advise the next steps without knowing more about the drive. Like it's size is it larger than 2TB? Is it usb ?
This can sometimes happen if you USE a USB 3.0 drive plugged into a USB 2.0 port. the drive takes more current than the usb 2.0 port can supply which causes the drive to be unstable corrupting the data. If this is the cause the data should be recoverable.
First tell us some more about the drive. Then download and run hdsentinel trial from here https://www.hdsentinel.com/download.php
If you could post some of the information screens for the drive. Here is some images for a drive I'm working on.

ONLY DO THE NEXT STEP IF THE DRIVE IS 100 % HEALTHY.

If the above checks out I would download Reclaime from here https://www.reclaime.com/
And run a recovery to see if the files are still there.

Hello, ive built a new PC about 4 months ago. MSI X570 TOMAHAWK and TWO M.2 SSD drives, Samsung 980 pro 500gb on slot 1, and Sabrent Rocket 4 1TB 2280 on slot 2, Windows 10, all drivers up to date (i think so). Sabrent disk just stopped working when i tried to update tarkov, windows does not see it anymore, BIOS too. Should i try to swap disks on M2 slots and see if it will work? Its either drivers PROBLEM, disk died or M.2 slot on motherboard? I attach screenshots of windows logs and device manager, disk manager. Maybe someone will have an IDEA what COULD happen and what should i do, thank you.

https://imgur.com/a/FcuujRJLooks like the Sabrent Rocket 1TB drive has failed . If everything else is working it is the drive not the M2 socket or drivers. It should still detect in the bios if it was a driver issue, so dead M2 drive.Try and see if you can RMA it under warranty. They may not be able to help much with your data, but they could at least replace it for you.

Good luck.

Hey guys,

So I put together a new computer this weekend to replace the (first) one I had built nine years ago. So I'm still a BIT if a novice in this department. In any case, the setup went fine until I decided to migrate over to my new Intel M_2 SSD. Unfortunately neither my motherboard nor my SSD came with adequate INSTRUCTIONS on how to install the M_2 beyond physical installation.

My previous PC's motherboard didn't have a slot for it, so I decided to make the migration over using my new PC. Once I had prepared the files on the HDD, I attempted to use Intel's own migration software but it failed to detect the drive. Now since the drive was detected in my device manager but not by FILE Explorer, I rectified this by PARTITIONING the drive so it would appear. I named this drive M (this will be significant later).

I tried Intel again and the software still wouldn't detect the M_2. So I used 3rd party software and used it to migrate Windows 10 to the M_2. When setting up the software for migration, the program informed me it needed to get rid of the partition to perform the migration. I accepted this and continued with the process. The migration happen overnight and I went to bed.

Upon booting up the system the next morning, I found that, although the migration appeared complete, the system was still booting from the original HDD. Cue an hour and a half of yackety sax music as I attempted to poke around BIOS to "enable" my M_2 as many online guides suggested. But recurringly many of the options available to the guides we're not available for me. And it's not like my BIOS (MSI Click BIOS 5) wasn't detecting it.. You could see it in the overview of the motherboard and among the storage drives. Just the options that people used to enable the M_2 weren't there.

So after a fuss I decided to try and force the PC to boot from the M_2 by disconnecting the HDD's SATA cable. This I did and low-and-behold it booted using the M_2 SSD. Now all I needed to do was reconnect the HDD to see if it would still boot from the SSD, so I could erase the old HDD and repurpose it as a backup/storage drive.

Upon opening the file explorer though, I saw TWO drives. They were two partitions of my M_2: one was a C drive which I had successfully migrated Windows 10 to, and the other was a little dinky 256 MB drive named M (my original drive partion shrunken vastly in size). It had 3 files on it that I didn't recognize. I thought this partition had been deleted in the migration, but it was back. So I thought, "this is messy I can do better." I deleted the partition using the same third party software and rebooted.

...Or attempted to. The system will no longer boot from the M_2 drive. At all. I basically have to plug in the HDD and it will boot from that. Windows 10 still sees the M_2 as does BIOS. But I can't boot from it.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. And mods if this belongs more in the Software forum please move it. I wasn't 100% sure if it belonged there or here.

As for my next step, I was thinking of wiping the M_2 and starting the migration from scratch. Thoughts?I'd install Windows clean to the M.2 SSD instead of the data migration method.

Reading what you wrote it looks like after the migration you may have accidentally blew away the SSD instead of the HDD install, and this is why your able to boot with the HDD to Windows 10 again.

Clean install of 10 will be less confusing and less likely to run into troubles with orphan data between builds and what to delete etc.Quote from: Fiore1300 on June 03, 2019, 10:01:24 AM

Upon opening the file explorer though, I saw TWO drives. They were two partitions of my M_2: one was a C drive which I had successfully migrated Windows 10 to, and the other was a little dinky 256 MB drive named M (my original drive partion shrunken vastly in size). It had 3 files on it that I didn't recognize. I thought this partition had been deleted in the migration, but it was back. So I thought, "this is messy I can do better." I deleted the partition using the same third party software and rebooted.

...Or attempted to. The system will no longer boot from the M_2 drive. At all. I basically have to plug in the HDD and it will boot from that. Windows 10 still sees the M_2 as does BIOS. But I can't boot from it.

I got this kind of on clearance an it's okay for PAYING like $10 in at Wal-mart. The only thing is that I put about an 8 GB Micro SD card in it an when I ATTEMPT to CHECK the card it says that there is no motion today but, shows that the card is all but filled.Junk...You meaning the camera or referring to my postI have to pick ? ?never mind, I found in the app a while back that it shows an fills the card but, it's not REAL direct with how to check it Another idiotic thread from squall. Locked.

Hello everyone, my desktop is an HP compaq from 2015 and on the power supply it reads "AC input 100-240 V-/4 A,50-60 Hz" then "DC output shall not exceed 240 W"

and on the actual power cord to the power suppy reads "10A 125V"

I bought a new European powercord because I am in europe now, but it reads " 10A 250V"


can I still use it? or will I destroy my desktop if I use it?The specs on the power cord tell you the MAXIMUM current and voltage the cord can safely handle. As long as your power supply doesn't draw more than that, the cord is safe to use. In other words, you want the values on the cord to be equal or GREATER than what is required by the power supply.

You can calculate the power rating of the original cord by multiplying the "10A 125V" numbers (10*125=1250). Then determine the power rating of the new cord by multiplying the "10A 250V" numbers (10*250=2500) and you can see that the new cord can handle twice the power the power the original cord could handle. Think of it as the tensile STRENGTH of a rope, you want it to be sure it's strong enough. If it's stronger than it needs to be, that's OK too.awesome, in other words, It is fine to use it correct?The power cord is safe.

However, make sure you research the power supply to know that it is autosensing. Being in Europe means you probably have 230-240V line voltage. Years ago, they USED to have a voltage selector switch you would have to move in order to use it with different voltage ranges.

I don't know when they started making all of them autosensing, but I have an old power supply that is around 8 to 9 years old without a voltage selector switch, so anything newer than 10 years should be fine (probably).

That being said, take a closer look at it to avoid releasing the magic SMOKE. :-)

EDIT: Just saw the specs to your computer and it being from 2015. I think you'll be fine.

Hi,



I am using a surface book 2 that has only one usb-c port. I would like to connect to 2 of my external monitors: acer and hp elitedisplay E201.



In regards to my monitor output cable. This is what I have:

Acer: HDMI-HDMI cable

HP: display port- HDMI or display port-USB C



I bought a dual HDMI dock from AMAZON but it still only detects my acer screen. My hp screen says "check video cable". Here is the link to the dock: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Docking-Station-Monitors-Compatible/dp/B08CRCRPCJ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8



I would really want to know how I can connect the two monitors. Do I need to get a new docking station? Thank you so much!!Simple saner is NO.
The surface pro 2 is too old.
I suspect you have the wrong display port- HDMI cable. The cable if it is described as DP to HDMI is for a computer with Display port connecting to a display with HDMI. You can't use it the other way round.

Quote from the net.
You cannot use the above adapter in REVERSE – to adapt an HDMI signal to a monitor's DisplayPort receptacle even though the gender is a perfect match. ... The HDMI specification does not support the DisplayPort LVDS signal type, and if the HDMI TMDS is plugged into a DP monitor, it will not work.

To use the HP monitor you would need an HDMI to DVI D Adapter Cable - Bi-Directional - HDMI to DVI or DVI to HDMI Adapter for Your Computer Monitor

I was checking some external hard drives and gave power to one with a different ADAPTER. My hp laptop IMMEDIATELY WENT DEAD, (used usb for external hard drive). Is that it for my laptop? I GUESS a computer repair store is in my future.You could try if the laptop has a removable main battery to remove the power and the battery for about 10 minutes.
Then try the laptop with just the power plugged in, no battery if it still won't power up then it's a repair shop job

I accidentally pressed the power button multiple times on my laptop (Windows 8 ) so it shut down incorrectly, and now whenever I turn it on it beeps and a "boot failure" message pops up. I've TRIED fixing it with articles but nothing has worked. Now it won't even start up in safe mode so I really don't know how to get it working again. If anyone could help, I'd really appreciate it!!There are multiple things that could cause a boot to fail, but force shutting down your laptop shouldn't be one of them. If your PC was doing a critical update, then yes possibly, but you should at least get a windows logo on the screen. I am thinking that this issue could UNFORTUNATELY be hardware related. This SOUNDS like it could be an issue with your laptop's hard drive because you said that I will not even boot into safe mode. The best course of action here if you do not know what you are doing with the computer would be to seek aid from SOMEONE you know that has deep computer knowledge to take a look at it.

But! Before you do that, please answer these QUESTIONS and maybe it will make it easier for us to help you.
1: Do you have a hard drive activity indicator light on your laptop? You know, the little LED light that blinks rapidly when the computer is in use? (You should, but newer ones have done away with it.)? If not disregard the following questions.
2: When you turn on your computer, watch and see if the light blinks rapidly as it would on a normal startup. If there is no lights at all, it is a hard drive failure. If there is a steady blinking light in a pattern, it could be an error code. If it stays solid or blinks rapidly and then stops, it is most likely software related.
3: What is the make and model of your laptop? (Brand and model)

That is all, hope we can get this problem resolved!
-Anthony

I'm currently using an ASUS P5G41T M-LX motherboard. Recently, I've added an SSD to my system which made use of all my available SATA ports (I already had 2 HDDs & 1 CD/DVD R/W drive). I've recently noticed (PROBABLY after my upgradation to SSD) that all my USB ports are OK, but works with only one connected device. MEANING, if I want to connect only one device (my FLASH drive, card reader, external HDD or my phone via USB) at a TIME, all the USB ports just work fine (I've 2 USB 2.0 in front & 4 USB 2.0 at back of my system. My keyboard & mouse are connected to 2 USB ports at the back). But, whenever I connect any second device (one of those mentioned earlier), it gets detected by the system and doesn't show up in file explorer. I've also tried to locate my drives using "diskpart" as well as in "disk management", but it took forever to load. If anyone has any suggestion in this regard, it will be really helpful.The problem resolved after upgrading to Windows 10 (from Win 7). It will be appreciated though if someone can shed some light on the whole matter.

Hello, I am currently on the verge of taking my PC and dropping into a whole to never think about it again.

I apologize for going into such detail, but maybe there is a clue or something in there which might explain my issue.

A few months ago I decided to upgrade my current PC which had pretty dire specs... It was a AMD A6400K, GT 1030 w/8gb ram. Obviously I needed a new CPU and mobo. I bought myself a GTX 1050 ti had a mate who gave me a fx6300 for pretty cheap. I then bought a crappy £25ish am3+ mobo. I put all the parts in my new build and then went to switch it on...

Stupidly I forgot to put on thermal paste. I didn't get an output even though the fan on the graphics card span. I then took it to a shop who said I fried my CPU and possibly my mobo due to no thermal paste. (after talking to a few people, I believe that this could of only happened actually in the shop as I only ran it for a maximum of 5 minutes. After taking it back from the shop I also could smell a strong burning smell when opening the case which was not their prior).

I then bought another new fx 6300 and put it in the setup with still the same no output issue. I did the same with the Mobo but still the same result. I thought it could be my PSU as it was the lowest of the low, an unbranded 500w crap heap. I put in a 550w Litepower PSU but still the same issue occurs. I even got a refund on my Zotac GTX 1050 ti and bought a Gigabye GTX 1050 Ti. Still same issue.

Another point to mention my Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti would have its fan spin for 5 - 10 seconds and then turn off. I was told this might actually be what is meant to happen with some GPU's but I couldn't work out if that was the case for mine or not.

Knowing the parts that I had recently added, I then attempted to diagnose which parts were not at fault. From my old PC build which worked, I knew that the RAM works fine in my old mobo and CPU setup. In addition, the monitor and leads all work. Unfortunately, the graphics card adapter on the old mobo is broken so I couldn't test my GTX 1050ti.

I also tried some tricks I learnt of a youtube video. I took out the battery from the mobo and LEFT it for a few seconds and put it back in. I also unplugged the power cord, held down the on button for 60 seconds and then RECONNECTED the power cable up again. Both attempts still had the same outcome with my PC powering on but no output.

I conclude that I can expect the error to be located somewhere in the specs of my new build. These the specs I am now left with in my PC build....

CPU: fx6300
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti (the one with only one fan)
Mobo: HP Infineon B AM3+
RAM: 4 x KVR16N11S8/4 Kingston 4gb RAM (definitely works in old build)
PSU: Litepower 55W PSU

I am soo confused and annoyed at this point and any help I would seriously appreciate. I am definitely not a tech expert and couldn't tell you the difference between a PSU and a potato this time LAST month. To anyone who has read to this far, and is willing to help out I would be extremely grateful for any tips or advice on how to resolve the matter.

Thank you very much in advance,
Jack.Because the RAM worked in your old mobo doesn't MEAN it will work in your new one. Check RAM compatibilty.


Sorry you are having problems with your computer.

A check of the CPU motherboard and memory it should all work not sure about the compatibility of the Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti.

The main problem with the HP motherboard is failed capacitors if you check this video it explains what to look for
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpFowvEggnk

It's also possible the PCIE slot isn't up to running the Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti and the bios may be to old.
Really if the capacitors have failed you would be better to get a motherboard which is listed as supporting your parts.

Thanks for the quick replies...

Quote from: Salmon Trout on June 06, 2019, 01:12:10 PM

Because the RAM worked in your old mobo doesn't mean it will work in your new one. Check RAM compatibilty.

Sorry you are having problems with your computer.

A check of the CPU motherboard and memory it should all work not sure about the compatibility of the Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti.

The main problem with the HP motherboard is failed capacitors if you check this video it explains what to look for
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpFowvEggnk

It's also possible the PCIE slot isn't up to running the Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti and the bios may be to old.
Really if the capacitors have failed you would be better to get a motherboard which is listed as supporting your parts.

I am having a lot of trouble with this PC I have. I built it a while ago, and ever SINCE a few weeks after I bought it, I have been having a pretty major and annoying problem getting the thing to even POST. The PC will not boot UNLESS I see the "b2" code appear on the Q-Code readout. This means that I have to POWER cycle the computer, usually for around 10-15 minutes, in order to get my PC to boot. As you can imagine, this is incredibly frustrating. I have built a lot of computers for friends and never ran into this issue. I should mention that once the PC does boot, it runs fantastically. I am not overclocked at all, as I am trying to FIX this problem first, and the only thing changed in the BIOS is that the memory is running on an XMP Profile. Everything else about this system is at optimized defaults. I have all of the expected performance and I have never once experienced a blue screen or crash on this PC. I have been through 2 motherboards and 2 power supplies trying to diagnose this problem, I have disconnected all non-essential hardware, tried booting with just ONE RAM stick, etc, and I am just out of ideas. I am willing to try anything, so please help if you can.



Specs:

Ryzen 9 3900X

EVGA RTX 2080 Super XC Ultra Gaming

Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (2x16) (On Motherboard's QVL)

Gigabyte B550 Aorus Master Motherboard (BIOS Version F12)

Crucial P2 500GB NVME SSD

Seagate Barracuda 2TB Hard Drive

EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G5 850W PSU



Accessories:
Corsair H100i Water Cooler

Corsair LL Series 120mm fans



Thank you to anybody who is able to help!

Get rid of the XMP orufile ans test...

Just put together a new PC build (my second ever - spec below) and I've noticed that rather than emitting a constant humming sound, it intermittently (like every minute or so) makes a 'whoosh' or 'whine' noise almost as if it were power cycling (if that's the right term). The noise rises for a few seconds, before dying back down again. It does this even when idling, so I don't see why it would just be the fans spinning up. I have temporarily unplugged all the case fans to exclude those.

It appears to be running fine, but I'm worried I may have damaged something in the build process. I built it using all the proper precautions (hard surface, ESD STRAP etc.) The only slight mistake I made was that the motherboard assembly was slightly tricky to fit into the I/O shield, which took a bit of manouvreing. I then noticed one of the stand-offs was in the wrong place. I corrected this before ever powering anything on, but I'm worried there's a CHANCE I might have damaged the REAR of the motherboard?

Maybe I'm worrying over nothing, but any advice would be much appreciated.

Ryzen 3 2200g w/ Vetroo V5 cooler
MSI Mortar Max M-ATX
Be quiet! Pure Power 11 400w semi-modular
Crucial Ballistix RGB RAM (2 x 8GB) @ 2933 MHz
Western Digital SN550 NVMe SSD 500GB
Tecware Nexus M case
Windows 10 ProThat's a nice looking little build. What is your chassis fan situation? How many of which fans I mean?

It's not like you have any moving parts other than fans
Thanks Quantos I'm pleased with the way it's turned out.

You are of course correct about the fans. I was using the 3 x case fans that came with the case. But having disconnected these and LISTENED more closely, it was simply the CPU fan which was making a racket when changing speed. Probably just unlucky to get a duff one. I didn't want to have to return the cooler, so I replaced the fan with a Be Quiet! one which has solved the issue.

Feel a bit annoyed at myself for not realising that was the issue sooner. Don't be...we all from time to time ignore the obvious workin with these beasts...Glad to hear that you got it sorted

Oké.I will follow your advice and LOOK for a mobo with the socket 375. But they are not easy to find anymore.
gilberto socket 370 not 375.

If it were me, I'd go with a better board for the money. You might find that the Pentium III era motherboards are the same money for a faster board or even a complete computer may be obtained inexpensively. Additionally if you ask around people you know you might be able to get one free or cheap as for myself I have gotten computers free as well as cheaply because people stopped using an old computer and it remains in their home but not thrown away. They hear that you can use it and its given to you or sold cheaply to you at a cheaper cost than buying a used computer online.

Many places sell refurbished computers at around $80-$120 USD and with a warranty usually as well. I have seen much faster Core 2 DUO systems sold for as low as $79.99 at www.newegg.com

Is there a specific need to stick with a Pentium III era board? Such as your adding in cards that need an ISA slot or running games or software that are legacy hardware specific that wouldnt be compatible with a newer used computer?Thank you very much for your reply. My motherboard was purchased in 2001. So a very long time ago. I will ask my computer dealer if sometimes he can find another transcend TS-asp3 mobo with the socket 370. I still bought a computer in 2008 with Windows 7 and bought a computer in 2018 with Windows 10.
I want to buy the same motherboard to be able to work with the OS experience and my Music program Magix Music Maker. The accounts view usually does not work properly on the other operating systems. So in Windows 7 and Windows 10, Magix Music can not be installed skinny.
Grtz
Gilberto The computer was it running Windows XP, if it is and you get different hardware it will likely need to be re ACTIVATED. Which isn't easy now Microsoft has stopped XP activation's.
I would make a copy of the hard drive before trying different hardware.
And keep the original drive so if windows de activates you still have a backup.

Thanks.
You mean when I install a new (old) Transcend TS-ASP3 motherboard, that my hard drive with the operating system experience Pro will no longer work. Maybe. But i speak from experience because when I bought my last PC with Windows 10 after one week the computer did not work anymore. There had to be a new mobo and memory installed. Then I faced what you are writing now. When I wanted to install my newly purchased new DVD disc with Windows home 10 on it, this could not be more because a new motherboard was installed. My Computer dealer couldn't help me and also didn't want to give a new DVD with Windows 10. I then found the solution on the Internet. And you can now use your Microsoft account in Windows 10 to have the activation done after a replacement of the motherboard.
I have two more hard drives with the OS experience and I can also install Magic Music Maker on another pc in the room.
The reason is that i want a new (old) mobo Transcend TS-asp3 to be able to compare this to my broken main board. So I can see the errors I made better.
Grtz,
gilberto Quote from: Lisa_maree on June 03, 2019, 07:05:26 PM

The computer was it running Windows XP, if it is and you get different hardware it will likely need to be re activated. Which isn't easy now Microsoft has stopped XP activation's.
I would make a copy of the hard drive before trying different hardware.
And keep the original drive so if windows de activates you still have a backup.

So, ive been thinking of maybe getting some games and an HDD size upgrade for my laptop to store them all.

Specs: i7-3740QM 8 Cores 2.70 Ghz, 6 MB SmartCache (GOT the cache off the intel website)
8 GB DDR3 (might go to 16 GB in the future)
NVIDIA NVS 5200M 1 GB along with an Intel HD 4000 (the nvidia card is the one being used)
Windows 7 Pro x64
300 GB 5400 RPM HDD (will probably upgrade if i install games on it to 500 GB or 1 TB if i can)

Question is if it could run these?

Fortnite (Works, tested it)
PUBG
GTA V (Plus some older versions like VC or III)
Overwatch
Minecraft (Works, tested it)
Roblox (Works, tested it)
Apex Legends (Works, tested it)
CS-GO (Works, tested it)
Rainbow Six Siege
Team Fortress 2
Terrarria

And some games on Bluestacks (like Clash of Clans or Brawl Stars, also works and tested it)

Id like to know before i buy the games, wondering if you guys could help. And yes, low settings is fine, and them loading slower on this hard drive speed is fine as ive mostly used 5400 RPM laptops and am used to it (Win XP to 7)

Also just going off of how many cores Minecraft SAID it was for the CPU in f3, might be a bit off. Also as Team Fortress 2 is free on Steam, I might be testing it soon to play with a friend.
check out the Can You Run it? website. USEFUL to help you see if your pc is good enough, assuming they have the game you want to play. Not entirely perfect but gives you a starting place to check out. Yeah, kinda forgot about that site....

Thanks for the advice, will check it out.

I just bought a new ASUS PC and I want to be able to play games downloaded from Steam. Do I need to install a high-end card like NVIDIA GTX 670 or AMD Radeon HD 7870 like the site recommends or am I actually good to GO with the built-in graphics adapter?Which PC is it and which game is it?

Neither of those are high end graphics solutions, I wouldn't use them for paperweights...

QUOTE from: Quantos on June 29, 2021, 05:06:12 PM

Which PC is it and which game is it?

<edit> Neither of those are high end graphics solutions, I wouldn't use them for paperweights...</edit>

Hi!

I was searching web for any tutorial or images how to replace CMOS battery / its position - found near nothing...
I found only picture in attachment.

Really don't understand Polish text even it is translated into my Slovak language...
Can anybody help me with CMOS battery finding or replacing?

Thank you for all.
Mirohttps://www.helpowl.com/q/Asus/UL30VtA1/Troubleshooting/replace-cmos-battery-asus-a6r/189662Link in reply is to eBay and there is that item sold and closed.
Helped not.

Any other WAY? I sent mail to that man, but reply arrived not yet.

MiroThe User Manual is right there...Whole manual is basic info about notebook and its usage.
Nothing helpful.

MiroIn the picture you provided, it has already been removed. It has a short cable that plugs into the white connector. The battery would go under the arrow.
The replacement battery comes with a short cable & connector attached.Thank you very much!
BTW: that solution I never seen - always had CMOS battery place on MB.

MiroNo, there it is not.
That white connector is for cooling fan power wire.

Where to find really technician manual or so?

MiroI GOT answer from Asus support.
They replied that are not able to show technician manual...
I have to disassemble notebook and change CMOS battery which is on bottom side of MB.
I tried it - it was impossible to disassemble it - I don't want to risk, really it was without screw and helped not, even CMOS battery was not visible anyway.
It is crazy to have much easier CPU access than CMOS battery...

MiroNot crazy,
It's on the top side of the board to save manufacturing COSTS. This helps with cmos security. Also because it should only need replacing every 8 to 10 years, which is probably longer than the life of the laptop it doesn't need to be accessible. If you are needing to replace it so soon the laptop must have been SITTING with a flat main battery for a long time.
It's old laptop lent from my sister.
She had it at home long time unused, was bought ~2006, so CMOS battery is normally discharged.
I need this laptop for retrocomputing - not as computer, only for providing disk space by DOS software.

I have on my PC installed Windows 10 X64 incl. NTVDM64 and it allows me to run DOS software, but it needs direct disk access which is in modern Windows restricted.
Even, that software uses for data transfer parallel port, so req'd is at least LPT card.

Or, other Q: Is possible to override restriction and allow direct disk access in Windows 10 x64?

MiroThen if you keep the laptop with a charged main battery and except the error on start the "cmos battery needs replacing" the laptop will still work and and keep the settings using the main battery power.

And if you are using a Virtual machine under Windows 10 then there is no direct connection to hardware as the hardware is created using software. Virtual machine you mentioned is NT Virtual DOS Mode?
Or think you about Hyper-V or VMware etc?

Miro

I am looking to upgrade my computer's GPU from a 1050ti to a 2070 and I want to know how much my power supply needs to be. I CURRENTLY have a 450wt power supply and my current computer is a CyberpowerPC Desktop Computer GAMER Xtreme S750

I appreciate whatever answers I can get, thanksYou will need to Post the rest of your system specs...that Model # has 100 variations on componentsThanks, I am copy and pasting it from the site

Brand
CyberpowerPC
Model
Gamer Xtreme S750
Part Number
GXS750

Quick Info
Type
Gaming & Entertainment
Usage
Consumer
Processor
Intel Core i7-7700 3.6 GHz
Processor Main Features
64-bit Quad-Core Processor
Cache Per Processor
8 MB L3 Cache
Memory
8 GB DDR4 + 16 GB Optane Memory
Storage
1 TB HDD
Optical Drive
24x DVD+-R/+-RW DUAL LAYER DRIVE
Graphics
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB
Power Supply
450W
Case
CYBERPOWERPC W210 Black Windowed Gaming Case
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64-Bit

Motherboard
Chipset
Intel B250

CPU
CPU Type
Intel Core i7 7th Gen
CPU Speed
7700 (3.60 GHz)
L3 Cache Per CPU
8 MB
CPU Main Features
64-bit Quad-Core Processor

Graphics
GPU/VGA Type
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti
Video Memory
4 GB GDDR5

Memory
Memory Capacity
8 GB DDR4
Memory Spec
4 GB x 2

Optane Memory
Optane Memory
16 GB

Storage
HDD
1 TB
HDD Interface
SATA III
HDD RPM
7200rpm

Optical Drive
Optical Drive Type
DVD±RW
Optical Drive Spec
24x DVD+-R/+-RW DUAL LAYER DRIVE

Communications
LAN Speed
10/100/1000Mbps

Back Panel Ports
Rear Audio Ports
3 ports

Expansion
PCI SLOTS (Available/Total)
(0/1) PCI-E x16
(2/2) PCI-E x1Sorry for the double reply but I just remembered I had added in this 4tb HARD drive as well

Seagate Desktop HDD ST4000DM000 4TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive - OEM

I have two 8gb ram that run at 2100hz but my task manager shows it running at 1100 hz and I have XMP enabled what am I doing wrong. I ENABLE xmp on my MSI B450m gaming plus.. plz helpYou're doing nothing wrong, it's dual channel, so each stick reports half of the actual speed - I'd suggest taking a LOOK at it with something LIKE CPUZ

Hey, I've just bought a PC for gaming (Mostly Fortnite) HOWEVER I use a TV not a MONITOR and I'm pretty sure its literally 30-60FPS and my PC is way stronger what would you reckon.
The PC I have is

https://www.game.co.uk/en/yoyotech-warbird-i5-i5-8400-8gb-ddr4-gtx-1060-6gb-gaming-pc-2359698I have a Asus 21.5" professional monitor (I guess is) with HDMI support but seldom use it (no audio out) and want to sell/give it so badly, too bad you're not in my REGION.

Acer Aspire 8735G Series



4 Gig Ram

160 gb HD



I attempted changing the hard drive, taking out the laptop battery, changing the power cord, cleaning the computer with air duster, reformatting, reinstalling windows, taking out ram sticks and putting them back in and still, this laptop will RESTART at random, usually before I can get a full reinstall done of windows. It doesn't have time to run hot so I don't see how it is a heating issue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I know it is an older laptop, however, I only used it for 2 years since I bought it about 11 years ago brand new, so it hasn't seen much usage.

I also TRIED updating the bios and the bios doesn't have an advanced option for usb flashing. So I tried the windows ENVIRONMENT install and it said Bios failed to update.

Link to acer support for my specific model:

https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/support-product/1782?b=1


Thanks



TaraSo I shut down the computer, half an hour later, it turned on , on its own. (it is restarting even when turned off).

I bought a refurbished Dell Inspiron 15 3567 and later found out that the HDD port was faulty in the board and they have solder the HDD cable wires in the laptop to make it work.

Now my HDD is running slow and I guess it needs a replacement. Shall I just change the HDD or a workaround like using a DVD-ROM case with SSD fixed to utilize the port?

My friend was telling me about this workaround It would work if you had an adapter like this to use... but not all DVD ROM drives are universal, so it may or may not fit properly.
https://www.newegg.com/p/1W8-00A9-00002?Item=9SIAA0C4M62883&source=region&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-beaugoodgoods-_-Accessories%20-%20Hard%20Drive-_-9SIAA0C4M62883&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIieqN06S64gIVlbjACh2qcQ8vEAQYAiABEgLY_PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

But its really interesting that the hard drive is actually soldered to the main board. Do you have a picture of this to show us the BOTCHED repair they did?
The Dell Inspiron 15 3567 sells on eBay for $300 and less.d Which indicates it is a ether old thing people are dumping.
Advances in technology are coming so FAST told stuff is hardly worth the effort to keep it going.
Save up your money u and buy a modern laptop with a warranty.
Look here:
https://www.compsmag.com/laptops-under-1200/
Quote

ASUS VivoBook Pro Thin & Light Laptop, 17" Full HD , Intel i7-8550U Processor, 16GB RAM, 256GB SSD + 1TB HDD.
$1,299.00

Hi checking this video it would be a lot of work to make up a cable to connect the hard drive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Wn8ezGWz4k

I like your friends suggestion of a DVD to Hard drive adapter just check it lists your model Dell as being compatible. Then put the hard drive into the dvd adapter and copy the slow drive .
Disable the the failing drive in the bios and set to boot from the 2nd SATA port. And you will be good to go .

First, I have two computers up and running 24/7, unless M$ requires a RESTART. One is mine, the other is the wife's. Both are running Win. 10. Hers has a 1 TB HD an mine has a 2TB HD. I have a 4 TB connected to mine for back-up purposes and a 2TB I use for TRANSFERRING files back and forth. If it MATTERS at all, these are mostly music files I transfer like, monthly. The 2TB is a Western Digital "My Passport" drive.
Now my issue ... Some times, when I go to remove the drive, using the "Safely remove Hardware" icon in the taskbar, a message come up stating, the drive is still in use, to close any files or folders still in use. I have tried several different procedures to close all folders before removing the drive. I still get the same notice from time to time. I went right to the source and contacted Western Digital and got forwarded to an article concerning this. The article stated to go into the drives properties and uncheck "ALLOW files on this drive to have contents indexed in addition to file properties". Is this a safe alternative to shutting down to remove the drive? What exactly, in layman terms is turning off indexing going to do to the contents of the drive?Turn off indexing.

I want to move my grand daughters pc upstairs. I don't have a way to run a very long ethernet cable to the ROUTER. What type of "transmitter" etc COULD we plug in the WIN 10 pc that would be SEEN by the router?Does the router support wifi? If so, the upstairs pc would need a wifi adapter. Another possibility is to use powerline adapters which are plugged into AC outlets near the router and near the pc and use the HOUSE's AC WIRING as a long cable.

Hi all

Thanks for any help

If a MOTHERBOARD has a j Corsair Header does that mean that the Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB Ram module would be compatible with Mystic light? If so which motherboards?
I am mostly looking for MSI motherboards but I’ll TAKE whatever is compatible with the corsair ram module.
I’m still doing research and I just want to know what options are available.
So you are looking to match your RAM to a new MBoard ? ?

All MBoard manuf. have whats called a QVL list that LISTS all lab TESTED RAM to the board...start there.

I don't know if this is the correct place to be posting this, so a bit of direction in this regard would not be taken amiss.

I have a socket 775 MSI 7529 MOTHERBOARD and I am running Win 7. The BIOS version was AMI 2.60 for this motherboard.

I started having constant BSOD's, and eventually, after mucking about testing and changing drives, and RAM, and other things, decided to flash the BIOS.

I set up a USB flash drive with FreeDOS, loaded the appropriate MSI exe and flash data file (the latest being 2.80), and ran the procedure, which ran correctly, and finished without error.

I rebooted the computer, and the BIOS came up with the usual bits and pieces of what it found, drives etc., and then stopped with the F1 or F2 OPTION. It also said that the checksum was not valid.

I took the F2 option, and the machine went ahead and loaded Win 7 without any errors or crashes. I then worked through Win 7 for a while (MS Word and one or two other things), all without incident, and without any crashes or BSOD's. A refreshing change to the previous few weeks.

However, when I shut the machine down, and then restarted it, it got as far as flashing the HDD and CD ROM drive lights, and then sat and gave me the blank, black , glassy, one-eyed, fishy stare.

I eventually REMOVED the battery, and restarted the machine, and the BIOS again went through telling me what it found, and again gave me the F1 and F2 options, with the checksum message.

And this is what it has been doing. The moment I switch off, I cannot restart. I have to remove the battery, take F2, and then the machine loads the OS.

I decided to re-flash back to BIOS v2.6, and am getting the same result.

It also happens if I go into the BIOS on F1 or DELETE. It won't restart, and I have to do the battery "thing."

The fact that the confounded thing does work seems to me to indicate that basically the process is correct, but it is entirely possible that there is some setting or tweek or other that I know nothing about that I need to include.

It also does this even if I disconnect all the drives, and try and reboot from the USB flash drive. I still have to do the battery "thing."

Does anyone have any ideas on this? For the sake of common humanity and my sanity if nothing else!!! LOL.

Stuart Aitchison
[e-mail ADDRESS removed by moderator]Hi Stuart,

A couple of things the board is about 10 years old so may have a flat cmos battery.
2nd there seems to be 6 revisions of the MS-7529 with different bios's for each are you sure you have the correct bios for the chipset.
3rd Your motherboard was of the age it COULD have bulged capacitors if you google ms-7529 bulged capacitors you will see which ones and what they look like.
4th you said you removed the cmos battery when you do it means you will need to go into the cmos and reset up the correct settings, at least the date and time and the hard drive access mode likely ide but may have been achi.