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I have a question about my Dell XPS 8300.  Would it be possible to install an NVidia GTX 1080 into the computer?What PSU is installed ? ?...that'll be the determining factor.I will reply when I have a look.  The computer is in use currently.  The currently installed card is the NVidia GTX 560 Ti, which is working just fine.  I am looking to upgrade in the future because I'd like to be able to run the new Doom at higher resolutions.  Currently I cannot.Edit: I meant to edit my post, not quote it.Carry on...no harm.Would it even be possible to install the GTX 1080 into my computer?  That graphics card has a 10.5" length.You would have to take some measurements...

Cut out a cardboard template of the cards rough dimensions and see...Thanks.I did a check recently with a 10.5" piece of cardboard I cut off a larger piece.  The cardboard went part SLIGHTLY PAST the rear edge of the hard drive enclosure area.  It could be hard to get the card in without removing it.  My power supply is a Corsair GS600.If it;s that close i would look at another card     then...I just saw an image of somebody having successfully INSERTED an MSI GTX 970 inside a Dell XPS 8300.  If he was able to get this in, I PROBABLY could, right?  If that is the case, perhaps it might be possible to get an NVidia GTX 1080 in there.  The GTX 1080 requires less wattage than the 970.



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I believe the 1080 is even longer...MSI GTX 970 is 10.8 inches, so a typical GTX 1080 is a tad smaller.

Main issue will be to make sure the area in the drive cage is clear as like the 970 shown it will likely extend far enough that a drive cannot be installed where it extends. Quote from: BC_Programmer on July 04, 2016, 07:25:33 PM

MSI GTX 970 is 10.8 inches, so a typical GTX 1080 is a tad smaller.

Main issue will be to make sure the area in the drive cage is clear as like the 970 shown it will likely extend far enough that a drive cannot be installed where it extends.

I see that the ASUS P5N32SLI will support 16 GB of ram. Can you even get a 4gb STICK?  I couldn't find one anywhere.

Thanks,
Hoop2077AFAIK, you can't get one now.
But they will be available soon.I think it's like Jurassic Park - "I know we can, but should we?"

Seriously, what would be the point? ANYWAY, get two so you can run in dual channel mode. It's faster.

So I ran Trojan Remover and accidentally removed something I don't think I should have.  Whatever the file was, it was located under My Computer > C:\

My computer restarted and my DESKTOP background was gone, and eveything looked a bit different.  For example on the start menu, the whole left side of the panel is now blank, the minize/maximize/close buttons are about 2 x smaller.  It won't let me set a picture for my desktop background, not even by right clicking a pic off the web.  It forgot my default homepage, and webpages seem to take much longer to load, youtube videos not showing up.   I tried a System Restore a few times, and although it brought the computer back to earlier times, it didn't fix the problem.  

What did I delete and how can I get it back and/or fix this problem?  Anyone?!

Thank you much...in advance!Looking at the Log, here is the EXACT file it renamed/disabled:

C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\NTUSER.DAT


Could someone PLEASE help me out?  Thank you!YEP, that's a pretty important file...can you do a system restore to a point before you ran the repair ? ? Quote

I tried a System Restore a few times, and although it brought the computer back to earlier times, it didn't fix the problem.

Yep, that's a pretty important file...can you do a system restore to a point before you ran the repair ? ?

You can try a repair install, but no guarantees. This requires a real Windows CD. Do you have that?

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/helpandsupport/learnmore/tips/doug92.mspx

Hi All

  I am  looking to buy a laptop and am uncertain which processor is the best and most relable. I have been looking at the Core 2 Duo. I would be using the laptop for mMicrosoft Office applications, surfing and minimal gaming. What are your sugestions.

Thanks

RandyThe Core 2 Duo is good, as is any Pentium 4, if you are getting an Intel processor. If you are doing "minimal gaming" then the processor type is not really of that much importance.I'd say just go for the cheapest, those tasks don't require a lot of power.
Consider how much battery life you want though, as well as the other components.Thanks Calum & Neil

       I think I will with the core 2 duo as I am looking for something that will be usable for a few years.
I am looking for a screen size of 15.4 inch. 2 gb of ram and at least 100 gb of storage. The question is what brand to buy. HP, Dell, Acer. Given what I will be using the computer for(Microsoft office, surfing and a few games) What would your suggestion be?

Thanks

Randy
Don't get 2gb RAM. Not even the most intensive games need that much. For your office programs, you could get away with as little as 256mb of RAM, although I'd suggest 512 RAM for your games. But unless you want a dedicated gaming laptop, there's less point getting more than 512MB, and definately not more than 1gb.

If you wish to discuss the gaming aspect further, we will need to know what graphics card this laptop is going to have.You won't need 2Gb of RAM unless you're heavily into Battlefield, Oblivion, video editing or photo editing - and I mean really heavily into it.
I think 512Mb should suffice, 1Gb would be better buy you may not need it.
I'd suggest 512Mb and you can add another 512Mb module later if you need it.
Neil's right, if you want to discuss games we need to know what games and graphics card.
We also need to know your budget.What is the budget? You can get a low end Compaq for $500 or so. I would personally go for a Latitude by Dell with a 3 year waranty, but that's just me.Can you get a C2D and 100Gb HDD for that price though?
Although after some consideration, the OP may decide they don't need all that.Hi All


    My budget is in the $1200 to$1400 Canadian dollar bracket. I would like to get an excellent processor that way I know that the system will be usable for the next few years. I know that it will be more then my current needs, but figure that it is better to get more then less then have to upgrade in a year or so. C2D with 1gig of ram. I will not be playing any high end games. What I really need to know is your feelings on the brand and model of laptop. What are your thoughts on the following and your suggestions on the model in each brand that would take care of my needs.
1) Dell
2) HP
3) Acer
4) Soney

  If you could GIVE me  an idea which one you would pick and the reason's why it would be a major help for me as I have never owned a lap top only PC and most of them Dell.

Thanks again

Randy

You should have a look here- http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/category/category_slc.asp?Sort=4&Nav=|c:17|lp:500:hp:999.99|&Recs=30
Lots of laptops to choose from for under 1000 dollars canadian.I would never RECOMMEND a Sony laptop OR desktop.

I already gave my recommendation.Hi GX1_Man

   You mentioned the dell latitude, is it  a lot better then the inspiration 6400 or 9400?

RandyThe Dell Inspiron is the consumer model and frequently gets offshore support, where the Latitude is the business model. Not as flashy, not the latest "whiz bang", but very stable, well supported (in English) and better build quality than the other low end units from every manufacturer. A 3 year WARRANTY is a good idea on a laptop for a lot of reasons, unless you're wanting something truly disposable. If a screen goes out after the first year, a replacement is usually as much (or more) than a new machine.

Problem: When I press the power button on my computer, the fans start spinning, the harddrive STARTS spinning, then 2-5 seconds later, it all shuts off again.  screen doesn't even flicker.  This started happening after I took my video card out to replace the fan, then put it back in.  I have had it in and out a dozen times in the last few days with no problems.  Finally it's fixed, and this is when it happens.  I have tried starting it with the video card, without the video card, with the old fan, with the new fan, same thing.

Specs: mother board is an ABit-KD7, video card is NVidia GeForce4, power supply is 10A 12v.  I have 2 HDDs, one 80GB, one 250GB, both WESTERN Digital.  One 512MB RAM chip.

Any suggestions as to what could be causing this and how I might be able to fix it would be apprecated.  I was LOOKING to upgrade soon anyway, but I'd rather not have to start from scratch right now.

Thanks!Ok, try this, nothing but the power supply, cpu INSTALLED on the motherboard, plug the power cord in boot computer and wait. If the computer still shuts down then its either the psu, motherboard, or cpu at fault. If the computer stays on then shut it down and do the following, start to add one thing at a time, (remember to shut down before you add each thing) monitor, memory, videocard, harddrive, cdrom....ect

You need to see wich thing it is you are reinstalling, that is causing the problem. So each time you add somthing, leave computer on abit to see if it shuts down.

Let use know how you go on.

I have a quick question.  I was wondering if you could tell me how I could go about finding out what my temperature is for my HP Server.  We had a BIT of a scare today and it shut down on us without warning but everything is fine now, however I want something that can check any sensors.

I mainly want temperature, but if I could get it to tell me any other sensors too that'd be great, and another thing would be pretty important if it could email me or pop up something on a remote computer (a message in the network) telling me that an alert has exceeded and such.

Thanks a lot!
--MikeAll i can think of is Speedfan
http://www.majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=337


SpeedFan is a freeware program that monitors fan speeds, temperatures and voltages in computers with hardware monitoring chips. SpeedFan can even access S.M.A.R.T. info for those hards disks that support this feature (almost all :-)) and show hard disk temperatures too, if supported. At the lowest level, SpeedFan is an hardware monitoring software, but its main feature is that it can control the speed of the fans (depending on your sensor chip) according to the temperatures inside your pc, thus reducing noise and power consumption. Most Winbond sensors and ASUS AS99127F support fan speed changing, as well as OTHERS from MYSON, ANALOG DEVICES, NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTORS and ITE, but the motherboard should make use of available pins. This means that if you have, say, a W83782D on a BP6 then you're ok. If you have a W83782D on some GigaByte's... you're not :-)

SpeedFan can be minimized to the tray and is compatible with Motherboard Monitor QUOTE

... and another thing would be pretty important if it could email me or pop up something on a remote computer (a message in the network) telling me that an alert has exceeded and such.

Nifty: problem is I don't know which one is the processor temp and also is there a way to rename the temps listed?

Otherwise you're right I found this program last night and thought it was pretty neat.


Thanks guys!
--Mike


[highlight](side note: How can I see all the threads I've posted to on this forum)[/highlight]

i have a 19" cicero(model 900p) flatscreen monitor that turns off all the time..i dug out my old crt moniter so i can try and troubleshoot the problem.(by the way my old monitor works fine and i only have the one computer here so i cant plug the broken monitor into a different system) i tried to search the name and model number and noting comes up...is cicero a real name and/or is made from different manufactor name...either way i need some help....

p.s. i also made sure the cords were fine and is ok
Step by step, what do you see from the moment you HIT the 'on' button?not sure which on button you mean ...the monitor or pc......however pc:the computer STARTS normal the start up screen APPEARS and then DISAPPEARS i turn the monitor off then on again the display appears and then disappears...this process is repeated off...then on....apears then disappears...also i might add when the display is gone the monitor light is still on green....also the other day my wife just told me it happened and she turned monitor off for about hour turned back on and worked fine until today...i turned it off for about three hours this morning plus unpluged my whole system and plugged everything back in again....    Can you start the computer in safe mode?sorry i FORGOT to mention that...it was the first thing i did and the same thing happens the picture just disappears
I think you will have to try that monitor on a different computer.

Hi new hear my old at least 12 year old dell died so I have decided to make a all new pc, hear is the parts I have decided to use is it a decent combo or not.  CPU ADM-FX8350 4.0 GH,  motherboard msi 970,  power source EGVA 500W.  RAM GSKILL RIP JAW 8 mb 2 sticks is dbr3 to match bord, GPU Asus Navidad geforce 750 time 2 gb.  I do plan on using Windows 10 and any other suggestions and welcome thank you.if your looking for a cheapish gaming GPU i'd go for the gigabyte geforce GTX 950. As it is much more powerful and not that much more expensive.
I would suggest an SSD if you don't already have one.Sounds good. May I ask some questions?
Have you ever built a computer before? Do you have some experience in building anything electronic?
Do you have one or good good buddies that share lour interests?
If something goes wrong, do you have enough cash to buy a replacement part?

Here is an gut feeling I have. It does not hurt to buy a motherboard with a builtin-in video chip. You can first bring up the system with  the bonbon video and check everything out. My personal mishaps have been with video carts. So I am afraid of putting in the GPU until I know everything is working fine.

Now about the motherboard.  I am not qualified to comment on that model, I have had no experience with any MSI boards.  I am leaning towards a ssd over a hard drive.  First coumpter for me I have friends that done a few but even combo is different and I'll look in to throw gtx 950Looks like a reasonable machine, a GTX 950 would certainly work.  You may also want to compare the prices of using an Intel Core i5 instead of the AMD FX 8350 as they tend to perform better in gaming workloads.  Personally I avoid MSI and ASRock motherboards - May be worth taking a look at ones from Gigabyte or ASUS instead as they are generally seen as better brands, price difference isn't huge.

I'd definitely get an SSD without a doubt, the speed boost it will give is massive.  You can always get a hard drive and put it in as a second disk if you find you need more storage space in the future .

It would probably help if you gave us your budget and country, this would make it easier to get a rough idea of the best price-performance balance for your situation.I will look in to different boards and there any that would be recommended I would like a set up that I can upgrade down the road,  my budget is not much of a problem I'm looking for a set up that I'll be happy with out spending a arm. And I'm located in the states.  Thanks for all the replys.I have below are some mid range mother boards for the 2 different CPU's i like Gigabyte and asus because of their excellent quality and life span (if treated well)
the only downside to these motherboards is the RAM speed is limited. but that wont hold you back at all anyway. You mentioned you want to further upgrade this PC down the track, The intel motherboards have DDR4 Ram slots. (i would assume you would buy a skylake cpu) and i included a Z170 motherboard if you buy a overclockable cpu later. So that's just something to think about. The AMD boards only do DDR3, and i'm not sure about overclocking.

AMD-FX8350
AMD: Gigabyte GA-970A-D3P
         Asus M5A97 PLUS

Intel core i3-6100/ i5 6500/6600k
Intel (skylake): Gigabyte G1.Sniper B7
                       Asus Z170-EI was alordy looking at two of those boards I did not see the gigabit sniper before good looking board,  I may consider the Asus m5a99fx.  I may over clock in the future which I can with the amd 8350 but I'm not sure about which boards.  Ardent there any ssd that you would recommend in the past I always RAN Seagate hard drives but now I'm need to catch up with the crowd, lol.At the moment the optimal minimal cost setup would be to have a smaller SSD as the boot drive with OS and small programs. and a HDD for bigger stuff like digital media games and large programs, In my rig i have a Intel 535 240gb SSD as boot drive a WD green 2tb for game and movies. Once 1tb SSD start costing around $100 consumer hard drives will be obsolete.

Samsung and Intel have the more expensive SSD's i have noticed, a KINGSTON or Sandisk would be fine they are usually only $5 - $20 cheaper depending on models. (that's just what i noticed in my local stores)The SSD is a GREAT choice. But you should understand why it is better.
Look at this:
Which Upgrades Will Improve Your PC Performance the Most?
In the above the author ranks RAM and GPU as being more important. But you need to read the entire article to get what he means. Quote from: valine on July 15, 2016, 12:04:56 AM

The SSD is a good choice.

On operating systems that support TRIM, files are deleted immediately. When you delete a file in your operating system, the OS informs the solid-state drive that the file was deleted with the TRIM command, and its sectors are immediately erased. Your data will be deleted immediately and can’t be recovered

Need a new laptop and I am struggling to find one in my price range. These are the specs I would like.
I7 processor
Decent graphics card (to run most games, don't care the setting).
Everything else is sort of not a priority.
Price range is $550.
Buying it in store or in-store pickup is a must.

Thank you
Edit
It's between
https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/ASUS-F555LA-US71-Signature-Edition-Laptop/productID.333692300
OR
http://www.costco.com/Acer-Aspire-E15-Laptop-%7c-Intel-Core-i7-%7c-1080P-%7c-Acer-Wireless-Mouse-%7c-Denim-Blue.product.100247095.htmlIf you want to play games and not SPEND a lot of MONEY, why go with a laptop?

Doing a Google, THEE are a number of gaming sites that recommend a desktop as the best economy gamer. They do not recommend laptops. You get more band for your buck WIT ha Desktop.

Yes, there are some relay great gaming laptops. But not a laptop under $550 that will play the new games the WAY you would like.

I was playing a game when suddenly my screen turned black. I restarted my computer and while my computer was turning on, the screen was black with 2 red lines going down. I tried to go to the normal mode but nothing worked and the screen was black. I tried pressing CTRL ALT DEL but nothing came up then I restarted my computer and went on SAFE mode and ram the malwarebyte scan and nothing got detected, I then went on restore but it did not work as it said that it was blocked maybe from the safe mode. I have tried everything but nothing worked, any options or solutions? HELP!!! 
Do you have a GPU INSTALLED or are you using integrated CPU GRAPHICS?
If you have a GPU installed and your CPU has integrated graphics, try removing the GPU and see if you get the same results.

If you post the specs for your PC we can look into it more.

I am UPGRADING my GPU. My CPU is the AMD fx-6300. Should i buy the GTX 960 4GB or the R9 380 4B

unable to dial out with modem. I have 56k dialup.
have deleted and reinstalled my Isp program. In Control panel, it says this modem is working properly, but in the hardware section, only the printer port is listed in the port section, I know that it should also list the communication port (COM 3). This SEEMS to me to be the root of the problem. The isp installation program searches endlessly for my connection when I try to set it up. My phone line seems fine and works fine for a regular phone. Any suggestions for re-establishing the modem. Computer is a compaq desktop running xp home. There has NEVER been a problem in the past. Browser is IE7 and firefox according to circumstances. Any thoughts would be welcome. Thank you for your time and input!What HAPPENED prior to all of this? Any recent power surges, lightning strikes or other unusual activity? How old is the modem? What make and model? Any recent changes in the BIOS?no recent problems that I am aware of. Just tried to go online a couple days ago and the browser kept retuning message that could not load the page. As I said the problem seems to be related to the fact that the COM 3 port is no LONGER associated with the modem. Is this a software or a hardware problem. Should I be checking the modem physically i.e. trying to reseat it in the computer? I really can't relate it to anything about the computer except for the fact that it happened after an automatic update from IE6 to IE7. Any other thoughts. Thanks for your input. Quote

What happened prior to all of this? Any recent power surges, lightning strikes or other unusual activity? How old is the modem? What make and model? Any recent changes in the BIOS?

the modem is an agere systems pci soft modem. driver version 2.1.56.0.

I am unable to burn any dvd on tdk external dvd writer.
I get illegal disc, unable to perform disc at once operation.

Can any body please help me out with it.
I have upgraded the firmware to the latest version, and DMA mode is ON.

Following are the log details:


[highlight]
Windows XP 5.1
IA32
WinAspi: -
ahead WinASPI: File 'C:\Program Files\Ahead\nero\Wnaspi32.dll': Ver=2.0.1.59, size=160016 bytes, created 12/16/2003 8:18:06 PM
Nero version: 6.3.1.18 (Nero Express)
Recorder:                      Version: 1.0C - HA 2 TA 0 - 6.3.1.18
 Adapter driver:      <>                        HA 2
 Drive buffer  :      2048kB
 Bus Type      :      default (0) -> ATAPI, detected: ?
CD-ROM:               Version: R806 - HA 1 TA 1 - 6.3.1.18
 Adapter driver:                         HA 1

=== Scsi-Device-Map ===
DiskPeripheral       : ST3160021A                       atapi Port 0 ID 0  DMA: On
CdRomPeripheral      : HL-DT-ST DVD-ROM GDR8163B        atapi Port 1 ID 0  DMA: On
CdRomPeripheral      : SAMSUNG CD-R/RW SW-252F          atapi Port 1 ID 1  DMA: On

=== CDRom-Device-Map ===
HL-DT-ST DVD-ROM GDR8163   F:   CDRom0
SAMSUNG CD-R/RW SW-252F    G:   CDRom1
TDK DVDRW0404N             H:   CDRom2
=======================

AutoRun : 1
Excluded drive IDs:
WriteBufferSize: 40894464 (0) Byte
ShowDrvBufStat : 0
BUFE           : 0
Physical memory     : 254MB (260592kB)
Free physical memory: 81MB (83460kB)
Memory in use       : 67 %
Uncached PFiles: 0x0
Use Static Write Speed Table: 0
Use Inquiry    : 1
Global Bus Type: default (0)
Check supported media : Disabled (0)

12.1.2007
ISO compilation
8:46:46 AM      #1 Text 0 File Isodoc.cpp, Line 6065
      Iso document burn settings
      ------------------------------------------
      Determine maximum speed : FALSE
      Simulate                : FALSE
      Write                   : TRUE
      Finalize CD             : TRUE
      Multisession            : FALSE
      Burning mode            : DAO
      Mode                    : 1
      ISO Level               : 1 (Max. of 11 = 8 + 3 char)
      Character set           : ISO 9660
      Joliet                  : TRUE
      Allow pathdepth more than 8 directories : FALSE
      Allow more than 255 characters in path  : FALSE
      Write ISO9660 ;1 file extensions        : TRUE
      
8:46:46 AM      #2 Text 0 File Reader.cpp, Line 118
      Reader running
      
8:46:46 AM      #3 ISO9660GEN -11 File geniso.cpp, Line 3899
      First writeable address = 0 (0x00000000)
      
8:46:46 AM      #4 Text 0 File Burncd.cpp, Line 3172
      Turn on Disc-at-once, USING DVD media
      
8:46:47 AM      #5 Text 0 File DlgWaitCD.cpp, Line 246
      Last possible write address on media:  2298495 (510:46.45, 4489MB)
      Last address to be written:            2258015 (501:46.65, 4410MB)
      
8:46:47 AM      #6 Text 0 File DlgWaitCD.cpp, Line 258
      Write in overburning mode: NO (enabled: CD DVD)
      
8:46:47 AM      #7 Text 0 File DlgWaitCD.cpp, Line 2143
      Recorder: TDK DVDRW0404N, Media type: DVD-R
       Disc Manufacturer: TTH02 -
       Disc Application Code: 64, Disc Physical Code: 193
      
8:46:47 AM      #8 Text 0 File DlgWaitCD.cpp, Line 419
      >>> Protocol of DlgWaitCD activities: <<<
      =========================================
      
8:46:47 AM      #9 Text 0 File ThreadedTransferInterface.cpp, Line 813
      Setup items (after recorder preparation)
       0: TRM_DATA_MODE1 (CTransferItem)
          2 indices, index0 (150) not provided
          original disc pos #0 + 2258016 (2258016) = #2258016/501:46.66
          relocatable, disc pos for caching/writing not required/required, no patch infos
          -> TRM_DATA_MODE1, 2048, config 0, wanted index0 0 blocks, length 2258016 blocks [TDK      DVDRW0404N      ]
      --------------------------------------------------------------
      
8:46:47 AM      #10 Text 0 File ThreadedTransferInterface.cpp, Line 984
      Prepare recorder [TDK      DVDRW0404N      ] for write in CUE-sheet-DAO
      DAO infos:
      ==========
       MCN: ""
       TOCType: 0x00; Session Closed, disc fixated
       Tracks 1 to 1:
         1: TRM_DATA_MODE1, 2048/0x00, FilePos             0             0    4624416768, ISRC ""
      DAO layout:
      ===========
       __Start_|____Track_|_Idx_|_RecDep_|_CtrlAdr_
             0 |  lead-in |   0 |   0x00 |  0x41
             0 |        1 |   0 |   0x00 |  0x41
             0 |        1 |   1 |   0x00 |  0x41
       2258016 | lead-out |   1 |   0x00 |  0x41
      
8:46:47 AM      #11 Phase 24 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1845
      Caching of files started
      
8:46:47 AM      #12 Text 0 File Burncd.cpp, Line 4182
      Cache writing successful.
      
8:46:47 AM      #13 Phase 25 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1845
      Caching of files completed
      
8:46:47 AM      #14 Phase 36 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1845
      Burn process started at 1x (1,385 KB/s)
      
8:46:48 AM      #15 Text 0 File ThreadedTransferInterface.cpp, Line 2344
      Verifying disc position of item 0 (relocatable, disc pos, no patch infos, orig at #0): write at #0
      
8:46:48 AM      #16 Text 0 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 1703
      Set remaining time: 55:45,522 (3345522ms) -> OK
      
8:46:48 AM      #17 Text 0 File DVDR.cpp, Line 1921
      Recording mode: Sequential Recording Mode
      
8:46:48 AM      #18 Text 0 File Mmc.cpp, Line 20453
      Set BUFE: supported -> ON
      
8:46:48 AM      #19 Text 0 File DVDR.cpp, Line 2062
      Start write address at LBA 0
      DVD high COMPATIBILITY mode: Yes
      
8:46:48 AM      #20 Text 0 File Cdrdrv.cpp, Line 8128
      ---- DVD Structure: Physical Format Information (00h) ----
      Layer: 0, Address: 0 (0 h), AGID: 0; Length: 2050
       Book Type: DVD-R   (2), Part Version[/highlight]Despite all of that info, has this drive ever functioned correctly? Sometimes these things are finicky about the type of media they will use correctly, so a trial of ANOTHER brand may be in order. What did you use? How about trying that drive on another computer before we get too far into this.And or after following GX1_Man's advice try a different brand of media...

patio.   8-) Quote

Despite all of that info, has this drive ever functioned correctly? [highlight]Sometimes these things are finicky about the type of media they will use correctly, so a trial of another brand may be in order.[/highlight] What did you use? How about trying that drive on another computer before we get too far into this.

Hello,

I just found this forum from a link and I must say it is really great and fully packed with valuable information. I have been DR enthusiast for about a year now. Most of the things I learned by trial and error. I am having a problem with a Western digital SATA hard drive and was hoping for some good advice.

Model: WD2500JS-40MVB1
Problem: Drive is clicking.

Although I didn't believe it was an electronic problem, I REPLACED the PCB anyway.
Result: Nothing changed, the drive is still clicking.

I am pretty sure that it is a problem with a Head, so I want to replace the Head stack!
I have a downer drive, and although I don't have any real experience with Head stack transfers, I have played with the Head stack before, and I am confident that I will be able to successfully make the transfer. My problem is that I don't have a clean room.
I was hoping that someone could give me some advice on how to perform this without using an authentic class 100 clean room.
If I move quickly, in a verily clean environment, will I be able to make the transfer without loosing great amount of data, due to particles landing on the platter?
Is there a cheap alternative for me to build some kind of box/clean area to shield the drive?
I have also read that an IONIZE may help, is this true?

Any information and tips, which can be provided in regards to head, stack transfer and how to setup an environment to pull this off would be awesome.

PS: I only need the Head stack transfer to read the platter long enough for me to extract the data.

Thank you
The "clean room" issue is bound to be less of an obstacle to you than your obvious (all respect due) lack of experience in replacing heads.

Head stack replacement is *not* easy at the best of times, and you have chosen one of the more difficult DRIVES to work on.

If the data is critical, SEND it to a data Recovery Company like Salvage Data Recovery Lab Inc., 76 Progress Drive Corporate Park; Stamford, CT 06902 Chances are you will succeed. My friend has visited this company and he told me about his experience to this. He got his hard drive repaired very soon with no data lost. You can also try.


Read the below.Same problem may be SOLVED this way.

 The firmwares are different. My original is 3.19. The new one is 3.75. Ok, I obviously need the same firmware.'

http://www.deadharddrive.com/

 I understand you changed the PCB.The link
is for firmware notes only.

Sometimes you can hold the drive in one hand and give it a firm
slap with the other hand and free it up long enough to recover
the data.

I'm having trouble with a new video card, i think. i was running a GeForce FX 5200, 128mb,  and everything was working fine. i'm getting a new LCD monitor very soon, so i upgraded to a PNP Geforce 6200 256mb ddr, (Both cards installed in the AGP slot.) because it has a DVI connection for the new monitor. Install went fine, loaded the newest Geforce drivers on-line, and everything appeared to work fine until i tried playing a video clip. the computer almost freezes, everything takes forever to work, and the monitor goes black for a few moments, comes back on, goes black, and sometimes just stays black. Usually i have to hit reset, and then everything works fine till i try to play any type of video. Any SUGGESTIONS would be greatly appreciated. I don't know whether this an incompatible card or a settings issue on my machine.

Mothreboard-eVGA nForce3 250 chipset SATA RAID AGP8X w/GbLAN, USB2
CPU-AMD Athlon64 2800+ w/HTT
RAM-1024 DDR
Power supply-350 watt
Sound card-SoundBlaster Audigy
Windows XP SP2 Home Ed.Did you uninstall the old drivers first? Virus/spyware protection? Any other problems with the machine? What things besides video cause the problem? Games?

Tell us about the make of that power supply and if it was new.i did remove the old drivers and disable my virus protection. my power supply is a Turbolinks LCA420ATX about 2 yrs. old. it's never been changed. The few games i have play fine and everything else works fine other then video clips or DVD's. it just freezes when trying to play video. i 've tried Realplayer, Windows Media player, and PowerDVD. it reacts the same way on all of them.Just an update on my video problem. After trying everything i could think of, with no success, i was reading about other users problems with video and graphics cards. i don't remember which thread it was, but it was suggested that the user install an UPDATED XP video_codecs program or tool. Just for kicks i tried this and ..voila! problem solved. Although i didn't get many direct suggestions for my problem, just reading about others problems and their fixes helped me out. i think this site is awsome. thanks. rowdyThanks for the follow-up info.  That's good to know.

Hi,
I have not used my pc for some time, I had two 60gb Maxtor hd's on this machine. Now when I check my computer it shows C:,  A:, E: is my dvd/cd rw drive. F: is my dvd ram drive, and it now shows G: as a dvd drive. D: which used to hold music/movies etc is no longer their and when I click G: it asks me to insert a cd.

Can anyone help me fix this problem? Thank You.A drive can't change into something it isn't...what has happened is your drive letter assignments have somehow gotten wonked.
But we need more info:
What OS ?
Do any of the HDD's have more than one partition on them ?
Is your RAM drive a physical drive ? ?

To make this easiest list things as they were before this happened...

I.E. :

Hard drive #1 = C:
Hard drive #2 = D: etcetera...

And then list them as they are now...

patio.  8-)Well I am running WinXP Pro, SP 2, and before this happened :

A:\
C:\ (1st hd)
D:\ (2nd hd)
E:\ (dvd/cd rw)
F:\ (dvd ram)

Currently I do not have a D:\, but a G:\ which is being listed as a DVD Drive. If I right click and click eject, no tray pops open..

im not sure if any of the drives have more then one partition? can you tell me how to check?

appreciate the help.. thanx
According to your list of how it used to be probably not...

Right click on My Computer and select MANAGE...then choose Disk Management.

Post a list of the drives and how they are listed. Don't make any changes at this time...

patio.   8-)OK, so heres how its listed -

Disk 0
Basic (c:\)
57.26 GB
online

CD-Rom 0
DVD (e:\)
No MEDIA

CD-Rom 1
DVD (f:\)
No Media

CD-Rom 2
DVD (g:\)
No Media

?Pretty strange indeed...

Unplug all but C: and try re-connecting them one at a time while POWERED down. Watch the Post screen to see if the BIOS is recognising them.
Do this for each one until you find the culprit.

i have a targa laptop which seems to act as if someone was periodically PUSHING the page down key - it makes the laptop unusable as the page jumps down a BLOCK each time it happens. i first thought that the key itself was stuck but by holding down the key i found that not to be the same, as this happens more slowly, like as if the key was PUSHED once only every 2 to 8 seconds (give or take)
i tried booting into the bios to see if there was something amiss there and to my disbelief the PROBLEM was still happening there - ( which i assume rules out a windows problem) - so that is where i am lost - does anyone have any ideas, thanksRe-install your touchpad drivers....

every time i try to play a heavier game on my computer it closes itself , no blue screen or anything it just closes at first i thought maybe the dust may be at fault but after cleaning it up STILL same problem , i thought that overheating might had something to do with it but it seem overheating is not the problem either, finnaly i did  a format and updated to windows 8 but the problem seems to be the same, i dont know what to do to get my computer to work again and i need your help
btw its an integrated amd a8800 cpu with an amd hd8570 gpu. Welcome to the forum

I've MOVED your thread to an appropriate forum and CHANGED the subject. In the future, when you need help please give your thread a subject that relates to the problem you are having. Thank you.

Please explain what you mean when you say the computer "closes itself". Does it actually power off? And does it only happen when you play one or more specific GAMES?it happens when i play most of my games especially heavier ones like farcry 4 and crysis 3 ,although i DIDNT use to have any problem with them after 3 moths of no usage of my pc  i came back to encounter this problem , and by what i mean when i say it closes itslef is that it actually shuts down   If the system powers off on its own it is a hardware problem. My first two guesses are ram or power supply. If you have a spare power supply you can try, I'd suggest you do that. As for ram, here's how to test it:

download memtest (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot order in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility.

Hi. So first my pc.

My rams are Kingston Hyperx 16gb 2x8 DDR4, 6700K,Asus Z170-P, SSD Crucial Bx100 256GB and Windows 10.

Everytime i am opening some application which is fine and opening. But on event viewer i get : RADAR_PRE_LEAK_64 entries. Applications are opening fine but windows 10 reporting this as RADAR_PRE_LEAK_64 entry in event viewer.
If games not crashes and i have that logs in event viewer do something, or leave it alone?



I have that radar entries in event viewer almost everytime when i am opening some game or benchmark , thats all. But not crashing.

Example from BlackOps3:


Like i said i dont have crashes , but only that informative entries on event viewer. Thats all. Should i worry? Something with rams, ssd? Should i check memtest86 or that will be waste of time?  Somebody said that this can be CAUSED by FAULTY ram, faulty ram slot, faulty mobo or faulty cpu controller. Please help thx.I would definitely run MemTest....any errors at all and you have a bad stik of RAM...

Let it run at least 1 hour.
Secondly while thats running i would look up your MBoard Manual and see if the RAM you have is on their QVL list....QVL means it's been lab tested on that MBoard and is an approved RAM.But i dont have any crashes during games, computer is stable. Only that entries in event viewer.

Yes my ram is compatible with my motherboard.If you aren't experiencing any problems, stay out of Event Viewer Quote from: Allan on July 20, 2016, 11:44:43 AM

If you aren't experiencing any problems, stay out of Event Viewer

Here is movie with the same flickering in test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFeeYL95QuY


That little strokes filickering is this normal during test?

I have had a desktop PC for 1 year, with an i7 4790 cpu, (not the K model) with the Intel stock cooler. I use Core temp to monitor CPU temperatures. I soon found out that anything intensive, took the temperature to above 80 C sometimes flirting with 90. I gather from various HARDWARE forums that this is quite normal with the stock cooler. I was thinking of getting a BETTER cooler but before that I have just tried turning off Turbo Boost in the BIOS. Imagine my surprise when a math benchmark I had written (Freebasic, repeated iterations of y = square root of x) is now running the CPU up to only 60-65 (steady for 30 minute runs) and the performance is only around 3% SLOWER. I am quite pleased with this, not least because the Smart Fan is now keeping the machine super quiet.
20 degrees cooler...with only appro 3% hit in performance...i'd say that's a Home Run...The effect seems less with video encoding in Handbrake, but still a 10 degree difference.10 in celcius is a big difference...As I understood it, Turbo Boost kicks in when the CPU is already at 100% to give a boost in clock speed but it seems like you pay a high price in heat generated for a fairly small speed boost. Maybe with a better cooler I might see not so much difference?

Turbo Boost will boost your CPU from its stock speed of 3.6GHz to a max of 3.8GHz when all 4 cores are loaded, 3.9GHz when 3 cores are loaded, and 4GHz when one or two cores are loaded.  So, depending how threaded your benchmark is and assuming Turbo Boost is kicking in fully, you'll see between 5-10% performance boost.  How "aggressively" the CPU boosts depends not only on the CPU load but also power limits and temperatures, so this can vary depending on your cooler but also on your motherboard.  Out of interest does it maintain a steady frequency or does it jump up and down when under load, i.e. turbo disengaging?  This would mean it's hitting a temperature or power limit.

It's not entirely unusual to see quite a difference in temperatures when the CPU's hitting max turbo boost frequency especially with a stock cooler.  What might also be interesting would be if you had a power monitor, you could see what the actual difference in power consumption is.  I suspect that the stock cooler is at its limits of heat dissipation meaning a small amount of extra heat being generated leads to a disproportionate rise in temperature - a power meter would give you an idea of how much extra power is being used and therefore how much more heat is being generated.  You may well find the difference is relatively small and that it might pay off for you to get a slightly better cooler if the frequency fluctuates under load as above.

Hope this helps Laser and IR temp monitors ahve finally gotten reasonable in price.

Handy to have in the shop. Quote from: Calum on July 21, 2016, 01:53:55 PM

Out of interest does it maintain a steady frequency or does it jump up and down when under load, i.e. turbo disengaging?  This would mean it's hitting a temperature or power limit.

Hello.

Sorry for my bad english:

I have an 8-years-old Computer and I WANT to update my graphic card. I am looking for something CHEAP like Geforce NVIDIA Gt730. My question is: Can I update just my graphic card without replacing another component?. Should I start updating another component?

PC Info:
- Motherboard: Intel DG31RP
- Processor: Intel Pentium Dual CPU E2200 2.20 Ghz
- RAM: DDR2 4Gb
- Graphic card: NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT 512Mb
- Windows 10 64 BitsWhat PSU ? ? Quote from: patio on August 02, 2016, 06:11:59 PM

What PSU ? ?

For that card you will need a more powerful PSU...

I'll try to keep this as short and sweet as possible.  I'm trying to figure out what the best choices for a hard drive and memory upgrade are for my pc.  I want to take advantage of some of the deals offered on eBay, and I want to know what I'm doing before I do.

I have an IBM (Lenovo) ThinkCentre A50 8085 21U.  Here's some info from http://www.memory-up.com
System Information
Chipset: Intel 82865G/PE/P DRAM Controller/Host-Hub Interface
Intel(R) 82865G/PE/P/GV/82848P Processor to I/O Controller - 2570
Motherboard: Intel D865GKD
CPU: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz
and some other things I came across:
Serial ATA 1.0 On-Board
Dual Channel Memory supported (but not required)
Non-ECC Non-Registered memory
Memory Speed: PC2700, PC3200 (though http://www.crucial.com says this: DDR memory with support for DDR PC3200,DDR PC2700,DDR PC4000 speeds. Because DDR memory is backward-compatible, you can safely upgrade your system with any of the guaranteed-compatible DDR speeds listed below, even if your manual calls for PC1600 or PC2100 speeds.)

Here's a link to the user guide from the IBM website:
ftp://ftp.software.ibm.com/pc/pccbbs/thinkcentre_pdf/19r0764.pdf
and one to the models technical specs:
http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-IBM-ThinkCentre-A50-P4-3-0GHz-1MB-800MHz-FSB-256MB-40GB-48xCD-PCI-To

I called IBM's "tech" (notice the quotation marks) line twice - once regarding RAM and once regarding the hard drive and got quoted a bunch of crap from the website which I had already looked at.  I should have known better, having worked in a call center before, but whatever - you live, you learn.  I know there is likely more information that needs to be known, and I'm sure I've included some that's totally irrelevant to these questions (not to mention may have asked some questions that might not really make sense or are possibly irrelevant), but tell me what you need to know - and where/how to find it and I'll dig it up.

So here are my questions regarding hard drives:
What is the maximum size hard drive I can put in my computer?
How many can I add without having to "swap" one out?
It says that mine supports SATA type storage, but knowing that SATA is backwards compatible, and knowing that the 1.5 and 3.0Gb types came later, if I was to add, say, a drive with a 3Gb data transfer rate, would my pc use that speed, or "scale" it back to 1 or 1.5Mb?
With the same type of thinking in mind, does it matter if I BUY a 10,000rpm drive, or a 7,500?
Are there any other things I've missed that I could/should be taking into consideration?

And concerning RAM:
If I buy DDR PC4000 will it utilize this or only function at 3.2 Gb/sec?
Does it support DDR2?  And if so, how high a speed can I buy that will actually be utilized, and would there be an advantage of buying, say,
Is it important to buy RAM that is matched for my motherboard, and if so why or how important?
The memory I have in now has a latency of 2.5.  If I get a stick (or a kit) that has one lower, will the new one(s) be confined to the higher latency, or do they work completely independently?
How do I know what is the minumum latency my computer supports?
Does it matter if I get a low/high chip density stick (or kit)?  What's the difference?
Also, the manual says I need memory running on 2.5V power.  Is that written in stone?  Could I use (one of) the same power ?connector(s)? that is/are provided to run one requiring less or more power or would I need to also get another power supply or an adapter of some sort for one differing from 2.5V?

I'm sure I'm missing some stuff, and may remember SOMETHING later, but if there's anything I am missing that you would like to INFORM me of, please feel free!

After trying to research this on my own, I just realized that, for me - a person who knows almost nothing about computer hardware - to do the research required to be able to figure out the answers to my questions, I would have to do a lot of reading - after I hunted down the information -  so I'm hoping this will prove the easier route.  I don't just want to know what I can put in my computer safely or compatibly, I want to be able to figure out what the best I can put in is.  At the same time, I don't want to waste money buying something that will only work with my machine  because it's backwards compatible, wasting extra money on something better than my pc can even utilize to it's potential, you know what I mean?  Thanks ahead of time to anyone who can give assistance.

YT,
VL

(So much for KEEPING it short and sweet! )The best thing is to go to www.crucial.com and see EXACTLY what kind of RAM is needed. It is not the cheapest, but it is GUARANTEED compatible, prompt shipping and a LIFETIME guarantee. I doubt you will get that on an eBay deal. If you want to get it elsewhere at least you will know EXACTLY all of the characteristics to shop for. Speed is not the only thing. If you mix speeds ALL of the RAM will run at the slowest speed of any individual chip. Faster RAM will not do more than what the motherboard bus will allow.

If you are using SATA, and the motherboard has 1.5 SATA connectors, a SATA 3 drive will only run at the max speed supported. It is backward compatible.

A 10000 SATA is much more expensive and the speed is not noticeable except in specialized settings. There would be no advantage in your computer.

Any size drive is fine in a modern computer like yours. Larger drives create more heat which can shorten the lifespan. Warranties vary between 1, 3 and 5 years. For my money I would go for a Seagate with the 5 year warranty. There is no advantage to more than 2 hard drives. Larger drives can become quite expensive. Probably the best bang for the buck is in the 250 gig range. www.newegg.com will have a HUGE selection and probably the best prices.

How's that for starters?Thanks for replying GX1_Man.  And it was good for starters.  Of course, it's going to prompt more questions, but at least I'm on the path to an answer.

Ok.  I've been to Crucial's site and used the memory advisor, but the info it gave was not what I needed.  Or maybe it was and I just don't know how to use it, I dunno.
Maximum Memory:   4096MB
USB Support:   2.x Compliant
Standard Memory:   128, 256, or 512MB  removable (though I know I can use 1024, as well.)
Slots:   4 (4 banks of 1)
Currently Installed Memory:  256 MB
Available Memory Slots:  3
Number of Banks:  4
Dual Channel Support:   N.A. (I know that it is supported)
CPU Manufacturer:  GenuineIntel
CPU Family:  Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz Model 3, Stepping 4
CPU Speed:  2992 MHz
System Manufacturer: IBM
System Model: 808521U
Motherboard Manufacturer: Intel
Motherboard Model: D865GKD

Sure they give me compatible upgrade possibilities they sell, but correct me if I'm wrong, just because something is compatible doesn't mean it's the best choice.  Like you indicated, RAM that has a potential for a 4Gb/s dtr may be compatible, but also may be wasted if it will only function in my PC at 3.2.  This is what I want to avoid.  Did I understand you correctly in that any addition to my memory will only run at the slowest memory in my machine's speed, or is this defined by the SATA connectors?  Does this also apply to latency as well?  Or when you said "slowest chip," were you referring to something else?  How can I find out what the maximum I can use is?  And if a higher dtr than the one that came with my PC currently runs at is supported, then if the memory that's in there now is the determining factor for speed, can I swap that one out to make use of this greater potential instead of being confined by it's lower speed?

Now as for the hard drives, your point on rpm's is taken.  And as for adding even more storage at some later point, well, that was mainly asked just out of curiosity.  However, rpm's and str's being different, is there a maximum str that can be taken advantage of?  What is/are the determining factor(s)?  How do I find out this information regarding my computer?

Oh, and the reason I am more interested in buying from eBay than Crucial or somewhere similar is money.  I'm living off a student loan right now which makes that situation a little tight, to say the least.  Really, I probably shouldn't even be spending the money, but I never was very wise.  For about the same as I would spend on the 1GB DDR4000 that came up as an option on crucial.com (US $154.99), I could find a 120GB hard drive with whatever manufacturer's warranty and a 512x2 kit with a lifetime warranty on eBay - both brand new.  I need the break in order to upgrade both, and I really do want to upgrade both.  I'm tired of the lags when I'm doing 10 things at once (figuratively speaking...well, most times ), and I'm tired of having to decide what I want to keep the least on my hard drive when something comes up I want to download or whatever that is too big.  40GB is waaaay too small for me.

Please help me!Well, just keep in mind that you need to make sure that ALL of the characteristics of the RAM need to be what your machine can use. Otherwise you may get something incompatible and then you will not have saved any money on the deal.

The maximum RAM speed you can use is based on the system bus. If you get something too fast for the motherboard, it will not perform any faster.

Sometimes faster RAM is cheaper than what you actually need and if that works, then great. I had an older machine that needed PC2700. To get that would have cost more than PC3200 which works just fine, but it still only runs at the slower speed.

As to the hard drive, the maximum size available would probably be usable in youre machine as it is so recent a build.

Hi, I'm a newbie and have a question.  I just bought a CD ROM game that says I need 512 MB.  (I have two 256's in my Dell DIM 2400 now and my computer says I have 512 MB).  When the game tries to install it says it cannot because I only have 510 MB of RAM.  What's wrong?  Can I even install more RAM or am I at the limit?

Here's more info.  I have a Dell Dimension DIM 2400 Intel, Celeron CPU 2.60 GHz, 2.59 GHz, 512 MB of RAM.  Windows XP Home Edition, version 2002 Service Pack 2.  C drive has total 70.7 GB, 40.7 free and 30 used.  Virtual memory is set at 482 MB, space available on C: is 56630 MB (I don't how much of this means anything).  Any suggestions would be appreciated!!  Thanks!
Sherrie Quote

[highlight]C drive has total 70.7 GB, 40.7 free and 30 used[/highlight].  Virtual memory is set at 482 MB, [highlight]space available on C: is 56630 MB[/highlight]
Sherrie

Quote

[highlight]C drive has total 70.7 GB, 40.7 free and 30 used[/highlight].  Virtual memory is set at 482 MB, [highlight]space available on C: is 56630 MB[/highlight]
Sherrie

56630 MB = 56.6 GB.  So your facts are contradictory.  You say you have 40.7GB free, but then say 56.6 GB.quote]

I will try what you said.  I also thought the numbers seemed contradictory but didn't really know what they all meant.  I have had a lot of problems with memory on this computer and just never had it checked out.  Thanks for the suggestions tho.

http://support.euro.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim2400/en/sm_en/specs.htm according to this your motherboard support 1GB of RAM. I think you have an onbard graphics chip, which uses some of your RAM, so you will not get the full amount. You have two options (1) Add more memory (2) Upgrade your graphics.

What game is this?

I'm using Windows XP with a Radeon 9200 Series video card.

I made a thread here recently concerning this problem, which I originally thought was being caused by the monitor.

My monitor (or any other monitors I've since tried with the computer) will black out randomly (usually after a few hours of running) , come back with a garbled screen, go black again, then show Windows again, but with some further problems like video being unable to play or desktop widgets not displaying properly, until I restart.

After the monitor does its thing, I'm presented with an error message from my video card's manufacturer, ATI.

So I've attempted to completely uninstall and reinstall the video card. I removed the drivers and associated software, restarted the computer in Safe Mode and ran Driver Cleaner Pro's driver and cab cleaners, then reinstalled it all.

But it's still giving me the problem. Just wondering if there's anything more I could do to get it working before I take it back to the shop. Thanks!Does the length of time elapsed before this happens vary, depending on what you're doing on your computer?  Do you have any temperature monitoring capability in your system?  What are the other specs on your system: processor, RAM, hard drives, optical drives, power supply, etc?  

You mentioned taking it "back to the shop".  Did you recently have it in a repair shop?  Why?  What did they do?Yes, the length before it happens tends to vary. The error often occurs when I'm using video, but sometimes it will do it with just Soulseek and/or Firefox running.

I've got a temperature monitoring program called Speed Fan. The problem happened again about an hour ago and I've since restarted.
It tells me this (the temperature values fluctuate, so I'll approximate):

Fan 1: 1918 RPM
Fan 2: 2519 RPM
Fan 3: 0 RPM

Temp 1: 23 C
Temp 2: 38 C
Temp 3: 21 C
HD0: 41 C

All the fan speeds are set to 100%, but the 0 RPM value for Fan 3 makes me wonder if a fan has stopped working. Not SURE off the top of my head if there's two or three fans in the tower. But the temperature doesn't seem too effected by it.

As for the computer specs, it's Windows XP SP2,  the processor is an Intel Celleron 3.33GHz, the RAM is 1 gig, my main drive is referred to as an HDS722516VLAT80 (153 gig), and my external hard drive (which I watch a lot of videos files from) is a Samsung HD300LD USB Device (279 gig).

My motherboard died mid last year and it was replaced, along with the video card, power source and sound card. The system was formatted.

Not entirely sure of the voltage or model of the current power source. The guy at the shop told me that the previous one didn't have a high enough voltage and that the new one would run it all comfortably.The 0 RPM value for Fan 3 does not necessarily indicate a non-functioning fan.  Most likely, it's just a fan for which SpeedFan can not detect the actual RPM.  I have SpeedFan installed and I have the same situation, and I know all my fans are working.  

None of the TEMPERATURES SpeedFan is reporting for you indicate any temperature problem.  In fact the 21C and 23C temps are so low that I wonder about their accuracy.  Nevertheless, I suspect none of those temperatures relate to your video card; in other words, I think SpeedFan is not giving you a temp for the video card, just as it does not in my system.  I believe my motherboard and/or video card aren't sophisticated enough to provide that info to SpeedFan, and, even if it was, I don't know for sure whether SpeedFan would report that temp.

So, I don't think we can entirely rule out a temperature problem with your video card.  Do you know whether card has its own fan?  Can you open your computer can and take a look?  

Perhaps we've so far OVERLOOKED one possible, perhaps obvious, CAUSE, which is the monitor.  Can you test that monitor by using it on another computer?   Can you tell whether your computer is completely freezing up when the monitor screen goes black, or is it just the display part of your system that's malfunctioning?  How are you restarting when the monitor goes black/blank?Just opened up the case and the card doesn't have a fan of it's own. There's just the power source fan, motherboard fan, and a general fan at the back.

The voltage for the power source is 350W.

The monitor was what I thought it was initially, so I've already tried out two other monitors on this computer and had the same problem.

The computer seems to momentarily freeze before the screen goes black and it does it's thing.
After that an error message comes up from ATI's VPU Recover saying:
VPU Recover has reset your graphic accelerator as it was no longer responding to graphics driver commands.

Once it's regained it's footing, I'm able to shutdown normally from the start menu.ATItool will show the video cards temperature if it has a sensor
http://www.techpowerup.com/atitool/

The temp should be under 50c

Otherwise a memory glitch on the card or in your ram may be at fault, or maybe write combining is at fault, you can disable write combining in display properties/advanced/troubleshoot/disable write combining.

Do you have the latest direct X drivers installed?, the 9200 is not a direct x 9 card I know but the newest direct x is more than that, it is backwards compatable and contains other updates to improve stability. Quote

Just opened up the case and the card doesn't have a fan of[highlight] it's[/highlight] own.

Once it's regained [highlight]it's[/highlight] footing, I'm able to shutdown normally from the start menu.

I have two harddrives in my computer and I took out the older one. I turned on the computer and the fan wouldn't spin at all. So it automatically shut down by itself. Now when I turn on the computer the cpu fan doesn't spin but everything still loads up, windows and everything. But I can't run the computer without the cpu fan on. It's a gigabyte 3d Raptor fan and the speed dial doesn't do anything.If the CPU fan is not working that should be replaced. If it is some other fan, LIKE a hard drive fan, that should be replaced pronto, but it will not kill your CPU.

Please clarify your terms, or post a picture if unsure.,haha sorry I mean the processor fan!Did you ACCIDENTALLY UNPLUG or damage it when you removed the other harddrive? And the CPU fan is the processor fan (CPU-central processing unit). :-/ I don't think so I checked the fan WIRES and most of them looks in place so I don't know whats wrong.!Just to be sure, did you glance at them or did you apply physical force to make sure they are fully in their place?Yeah, I used force, I would get a new fan but it's snowing here and it MIGHT be a few days before I can replace it. I only had it for like 1 year I don't know why it wuold break so fast.All components die eventually. You can either get a new fan or a new CPU, your pick.

I'm listening to a cd with WMP 9.0 and I pause it, I step away from my computer for about ten minutes.
I come back, and press play (on my keyboard) all of a sudden wmp says that the files cannot be found(the error like when you delete somthing from the computer but not from the playlist)!

I go to eject the cd, nothing happens, no drive light comes on, nothing.
In "my computer", the drive no longer appears (it should be labeled drive "E:" now I just have "A:" "C:" "D:" "F:")

I then shut the computer down and "force-eject" (put the paperclip in the hole) the drive, to take the disk out and see if that was messing it up.

I boot the computer up again and there is STILL no drive E: in "my computer"

oh, recently (four days ago) I moved the computer from on top of my desk to on the floor, although up until today is was working properly

and, the keyboard that I pressed the button on is also new, two days, could that of caused a problem?Travel to Control Panel/System /Hardware/Device Manager and find the CDRom listing...right click it and select uninstall/remove...reboot and see if this cures it.i dont even see a cd-rom drive in device manager, as far as I can tell, the computer does not think that I have a cdromIf it's not listed where i said i have no idea how you were able to listen to music...this could absolutely wrong, but humor me

could it be that when the cd was paused the cd-rom broke and then somehow removed itself from the device manager listing?

and anyway, if it is not listed, and it does not work, does that mean that its probably bit the dust?Well i've never seen this personally but anything is possible...hook it up in another machine to find out.

How old is the device ? ?

New DVD burners are down to about 40 bucks.its about 1 month past the 1 year warranty  In order to determine what was wrong, I took a step back, it might not be windows, it might be te drive

I went into the bios boot order with the INTENTION of putting the optical drive first so i could boot a linux distro from it

When I was changing the boot order, it said that I have no optical drive, still, I persued trying to boot into linux

needless to say, it did not boot into linux

therefore, I conclude: (1)the drive is defective or (2)something got knocked loose somehow inside the case

chances are, that the drive is defective though
If it's not seen in the BIOS and nothing has been down physically to it's connections, I would suggest it's time for a new drive.just because I'm a little compulsive about "unresolved" posts, I THOUGHT I would post the (happy) ending:

I opened the case, just as a last resort and jiggled around the wires connected to the cd drive, now it WORKS flawlessly

I guess it did get nocked out of place when I moved it.

thanks for all the supportThat makes sense as moving can knock things loose sometimes, especially if you move things like I do.

Okay so I pc recovered my computer TODAY. It like DELETED all my files except program files. But my HARD drive says its still 50gb/200gb, even though all my document files were wiped clean (this was a non-destructive recovery by HP) Anyone know how to FIX this? Maybe my files are still somewhere, and if, where? I really need them back bad, but if I can't find them, i'll just reformat.

Thanks!The non-destructive reinstalls seldom work correctly and you may have gotten the other TYPE. Have a read here and see if it helps:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/308421

Ok i need alittle help here. I am thinking about buying a 40" samsung Lcd TELEVISION, but before i do i am hoping for abit of advice here. I was thinking of hooking it up to my Pc for games..ect, but i'm not sure if these large screen televisions are good for gamming.

The lcd television has an 8m/sec Response Rate and a resolution of 1360 by 768.

Can anyone TELL me what problems i may have if any?You might want to let us know what video card you have...Do you mean 1280 x 768?

If not, that is a HORRIBLE resolution that no game will support. Quote

You might want to let us know what video card you have...

Do you mean 1280 x 768?

If not, that is a horrible resolution that no game will support.

Hey everyone! Returning after a long time.

I keep getting BSOD on my home PC, with a error of Bad_Pool_Header. So I tested different things and one by one started to remove all usb devices just to check what was causing this (after running memtest to check the ram, and also running SFC). So this was where I found out that the problem was being caused by my USB TP-link wifi adapter, every time I remove it the COMPUTER works FINE but when I connect it back in I get a BSOD after 5-10 minutes.

I checked the Bluescreenview app to see what was the problem, it shows there that it is being caused ALMOST every time by Ntoskrnl.

Any solutions to FIX this problem guys?

I recently bought this Motherboard to upgrade my VERY OLD system. The Motherboard is a Gigabyte GA78LMT-USB3. Yes, I know it's not a high performer and it's an older MODEL but i'm not a gamer. This board has 3 display ports but it won't allow me to use the DVI or HDMI by itself. It only works if I use the 15 pin D-Sub as my main display and one of the other as a second monitor. I only need one monitor. Is there a setting that will enable me to use HDMI or DVI by itself or am I stuck with using the 15 pin only?
Specs If it helps: AMD FX6300 Black Edition CPU with 16 GB of G.Skill Ripjaws X Series Ram overclocked at 1600MHz

Thank You
JohnWe want to help you. But few of us know that board by memory
Did you read the manual?
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/409831/Gigabyte-Ga-78lmt-Usb3.html
Check and see if the BIOS lets you set which is monitor #1
Otherwise, you would GO into the Windows display properties and select which port you want to be the first monitor.
See here:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/976064
Guided Help: Dual monitor setup is easy in Windows 7!
It is almost the same thing in Windows XP
Yes, you only want one display, but you have to use the dual display tool to select which display is #1.

Does that help?  Bios has no option for this. Using the windows Display Properties works to set whichever Monitor I want as my main but you still need 2 monitors installed in order to do this otherwise I would just pic my Main Monitor up and be done with it. The problem is I don't want 2 Monitors plugged in to my Computer but I wanted My One and Only Monitor to be connected through the HDMI or DVI Port. When I bought this board I didn't even think this would be an issue.

It is almost the same thing in Windows XP
Yes, you only want one display, but you have to use the dual display tool to select which display is #1.
Yes, but you still need 2 Monitors plugged in for you to set it up. Are you saying I need to plug in 2 monitors to set it up then disconnect the I don't want to use? If so and that works then so be it. I just think it's kinda weird on Gigabytes part to have it set this way.

Thanks
John
It is not just Gigabyte. The BIOS if almost nay PC will use the VGA as the default Monitor. In the BIOS look for a place where you can set it to never use the VGA. That is the normal BIOS method of using a second card for the PRIMARY display.

Here are some links about that issue.
http://superuser.com/questions/413804/how-can-i-get-my-system-to-use-dvi-on-boot-bios-when-it-now-uses-vga-on-my-dua

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/743319/use-dvi-as-primary-for-bios-otheros-when-2nd-monitor-is-hdmi/?offset=1

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/673422-dual-monitor-setup-BIOS-display-only-on-DVI-and-not-primary-(HDMI)

To find the above links I did a Google on:
force BIOS to use DVI Port as primary
You can try that and get more references.   
Are you making the connection adjustments while the system is on?

If you plug in only the DVI or HDMI and power it on, it should detect and use that monitor without issue.

The BIOS has a "Onboard VGA output connect".

I have Four Gigabyte motherboards and those that I used on-board graphics with I used the DVI connection and never touched the VGA connection, so it's not endemic to Gigabyte boards.Thanks for that info Geek. I'll have to look inti that when i get a break.Thanks BC, and no I've never connected or diconnected a monitor while the system is on. I tried it with just the DVI as well as the HDMI but neither WORKED. I'm going to have to take a closer look at the bios again.
Thanks AgainScreenshot from Gigabyte Manual.


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Sorry Geek but I must be missing something in the screenshot. I read through the manual but I didn't see/read anything pertaining to this. MAYBE I just don't understand. If you could clarify for me I would really appreciate it.

Thanks
JohnSorry I did not explain. I just wanted everybody to see that your motherboard has both VGA and two other kinds of connectors. This means the board itself has two video devices or a dual display video device inboard. With most older motherboards the VGA is the built-in and any DVI is from the add-on card the user has.

So you do not have an add-in video card in a PCI slot? You are using just the video outputs from the back panel of the Gigabyte motherboard. Is that right?
You have a GA78LMT-USB3.
Normally the BIOS on most motherboards wilt  find the attached and make it the default display. But  your Gigabyte  BIOS does not automatically select the only monitor? Is that so?

Another reference:
Quote

GIGABYTE - Motherboard - Socket FM2+ - GA-F2A88XM-D3H (rev. 3.0)
www.gigabyte.com › Motherboard › Socket FM2+
Gigabyte Technology
Supporting multiple independent display outputs simultaneously, AMD Eyefinity ... Flexible graphics capabilities - Up to 2 VGA cards are supported for 2 way AMD ... of the latest AMD Fusion A-series APUs, GIGABYTE motherboards deliver an .... Please use keyword search or select the specific product category to find ..

BIOS automatically determines the primary display port for output, depending on to
which port the display device is connected, D-SUB/DVI-D or D-SUB/HDMI. (Default)

Read page 26. The user can over ride the default.

hi! so the last TIME i used my computer was 2 days ago and it was working fine. but when i tried to on it again yesterday it started having beeping noises (1long beep 2 short beeps) for some time and theres red flashing light. i tried cleaning off the dust/reseating the video card/ram but to no avail. pls help me ;-;

- Customized computer (4yrs o)
- Asus motherboard (not sure the model)
- Video card (Geforce Gtx 670)
Does anything come up one the SCREEN?

1 long, 2 short Indicates a video error has occurred and the BIOS cannot initialize the video screen to DISPLAY any additional information.

Do you have an on-board display connection?  try removing the card and connecting to the on-board.

Hello,
I have HP Pavilion G4 with ATI 7400M graphics. My laptop runs many games it has 2gb ram. I want to ask that if i upgrade my ram to 6GB or 8GB will it increase GPU Ati power also???. It has intel HD graphics also dual graphics card. can any one tell me the memory bandwidth of 7400M . My CPU is B940 Quote

It has intel HD graphics also dual graphics card.

I know I've already posted something like this but, I've changed it quite a bit. I just WANT to check to make sure I dont waste my money before i order the parts. Here are the specs:
AMD Athlon 64 3200+ (Socket 939, Venice core)
1024MB DDR 400 dual channel Corsair ValuRAM
ECS 480RX-(1.0) ATi Xpress 200P motherboard SATA 1.5gbps
PNY GeForce 7600GS 256MB GDDR2 PCIe 16x
160GB WD Caviar SE SATA 3.0gbps
18x DVD+\-RW with 12x DVD-RAM LITE-ON
5.1 surround speakers 70-watt
Saitek gamepad
etc etc... I was thinking of buy NFS: Most Wanted with it. Are the graphics GOOD on the PC version?Looks pretty good . . . what's your budget?
One thing I saw - you have a socket 939 mobo and processor.
If you could get a socket AM2 processor and mobo, it would offer a better upgrade path.
That's if you want to go with AMD - an Intel Core 2 Duo would be much faster, but only if you have the money for it as they can be expensive.
Other than that, looking pretty good.
As I said, what's your budget?  And what's the PC for?
Sorry if you've already said this in another thread, but I can't remember.My budget is about $550 max. Im thinking $525 for the PC and $25 for a game. The PCs for gaming and building games. AM2 is about $50 more expensive. Thats why I got DDR instead of DDR2. Because only AM2 has DDR2 slots on the mobo. the CPUs about $20 more expensive so is the mobo and so is the RAM. Whats the main difference between 939 and AM2? I really dont see how this has any effect on performance. Core 2 is out because of price. The athlon 64 is $60. a core 2 is about 3x that.OK, fair enough.
There's not a huge performance difference between AM2 and 939, although there is a slight one.
The main thing is that 939 will be discontinued soon.
AM2 will stick around for a while.
If that's out and so is Core 2, then that build sounds fine to me.
Good price too.
And if you need more performance, AMD chips are usually good overclockers if you're into that sort of thing, and you could add another 7600GS later for SLI if needed (if you have another PCI-E slot).
Should be about the same performance in everything as my laptop, maybe a little less.it only has 1 PCIe 16x slot. Could you refer me to a good site that explains how to safely overclock a CPU? Even with the stock heatsink? Have you tried NFS:MW? Will it have good graphics? Will my PC be up to it?Overclocking: just search for how to overclock on Google.
It's fairly easy to do if you don't go too far - once you get into voltage modding it gets too scary for me.
Just make sure you monitor your temperatures, and take it slowly.
A better heatsink/fan would be about £10 (probably around $15-$20?) - a good investment even if you're not planning on overclocking, as it will probably run quieter than stock and cool your CPU better.
I haven't tried NFS:MW, but here's a review which includes the min. requirements and the results on his system, which is slower than yours in some ways and better in others - more RAM, slightly better graphics, weaker CPU.
I'd say your PC should be up to it, although it may not run on max. settings very well.
Stick to MEDIUM and you'll be fine.
Hope this helps.OK, Thanks a lot Calum! I'd try your game before overclockling just for the sake of it

Anyway, didn't you say you thought gaming consoles were better Quote

I'd try your game before overclockling just for the sake of it  
 
Anyway, didn't you say you thought gaming consoles were better  

Your demanding quite a bit. I believe that an E4300 is a core 2. I will most likely never need that kind of power any time soon. And I dont know a thing about ATI GPUs but, that sounds like one of the best ones. I cant afford it nor will i need it. Please, just tell me if a 7600GS will be enough. its backed by 800MHz, 1GB RAM and an athlon 64 3200+. I cant think I'll need anything else.

My partners son recently inadvertenly clicked on a link in MSN hwich turned out to be a virus.  Not sure how it got through, as this was an old work LAPTOP that was supposed to have the best protection MONEY can buy etc etc, but needless to say it caused a few problems.  They were mainly annoying rather than dangerous (or at least appeared to be), constant pop ups was the main one, until IE completely vanished.  I've doen a virus check, deleted everything I can, but have decided the best step is to wipe the drive and start again.  One of the problems I have is that becuase the laptop belonged to my former employers, I don't have any of the master disks.  Another problem is that I'm a novice (in case you can't tell yet  :-/), so any advice anyone can give will be greatly appreciated.

CheersPlease give more information about what virus scanners you used and what you deleted and what operating system is used on the laptop.

If you don't mind spending money, you can buy a new Windows disk (aka "master disk") and start afresh. Finding drivers might be a bit more problematic.Norton Anti Virus, Windows XP PRO.  I basically deleted every file that either wasn't needed or used regularly, all temp files (which I try and do regularly anyway) and a couple of strange looking .exe files that appeared on the desktop.  Sorry, can't remember what they were called, I just wanted rid of them!  The basics are still on, Office etc, and IE vanished after a couple of days.  The laptop appears to be working without any problems now IE isn't there, I just don't want to start using it for the web without cleaning the whole thing up first.

To be honest, I'm expecting to have to fork out in the end anyway!Everyone needs a real Windows CD sooner or later. In your case it appears to be sooner.I got a virus on my computer recently. If it was not too long ago, you could POSSIBLY use the system restore feature, which (at least for me) returned my computer to a state when IE still existed. That can be found by opening up the Start Menu, clicking "Run", typing "MSCONFIG", and then clicking "Launch System Restore". I then used IE to run a virus scan from Panda Software (www.pandasoftware.com) to locate the viral files, which I deleted. My computer has been fine ever since.Thanks, I'll give it a go.

As soon as I turn on my pc I get a message that comes form the USB ICON on the task bar that says: Power Surge on hub port. A USB device has exceeded the power limits of it's hub port. For assistence in solving the problem, click this message.

If I close that, it just keeps on poping back up. If I click on it, another screen pops up that says: Power surge on hub port. A USB device has malfuctioned and exceeded the power limits of itt's hub port. You should disconnect the device.

Under that message ther is another message saying: The location of the device is shown in bold type.

- USB root hub (2ports)
   ? Unknown USB device
      Unused port

then under everything there is another message that says: To reenable the port, disconnect the hardware and click reset. If you click close, the port will no longer function.


The problem is that I have no USB device connected to the USB port on my computer. My pc has 2 ports in the front and 4 in the back. I thought the problem might be with the front port, so I opened the pc and disconected the front ports from the motherboard. But I still get those same messages on my screen when I turn my pc on. None of the USB ports are working.

These messages started to appear after I formated the pc, but before I did that the USB ports were not working. They were not working but no messages would appear. Now they are not work but I keep getting those messages and they just keep on poping up every time I close them.

If anyone could help me out, It would be GREAT.
thanksIf you unplugged the front ports and still recieved the error message than the short is in the rear ports.

This means those ports are damaged or have something in them that is shorting them out. They are part of the MBoard itself and i'm not sure they can be repaired other than having a shop take a look at them.

Is this machine still under warranty ? ?

The only option i can THINK of would be to get a PCI USB card and disable the onboard USB DEVICES in the BIOS...

Possibly others here might have some other ideas...I disabled the USB in CMOS, but the problem I am getting now is that, widows does not start
When I turn on the pc I get the tests at the begining and then I get a black screen and thats it!!!

But when I enable the USB port again, windows starts fine, but i keep on getting those messages about the USB hub port, and they just keep on poping up.

what do you think I shoul do?
should remove the USB drivers?
do you think that would work?

ThanksWell it sounds like in order to run Windows you'll have to leave them ENABLED in the BIOS...BTW have you peered into those slots with a flashlight to SEE if there's a small foriegn object in any of them ? ?
Obviously do this with all power removed from the machine...

Have you got a PCI/USB card yet ? ?

patio.   8-)I didn't get a PCI USB yet, but I just want to get that message to stop poping up. Do you have any Idea of how I could do that?

I really don't need the USB to work right now, I just need to spot getting that Message on my screen.

Thanks for your help.Well if Windows won't start with USB dis-abled in the BIOS i fear you are stuck with the message...for now.

patio.  8-)If I buy I PCI USB and then disable the onboard USb, do you think I am going to be able to start windows normaly?

I didn't buy the PCI USB yet because even with it I think that windows won't start if the onboard USB is disabled. If the onboard USB is enabled that means that I am going to get that messsage all the time.

what do you think?

thanks

Hello,
Question :
Can I transfer from an old hp/xp os to a new "clone" puter Hd. The current os is new xp-64bit and it's just to much trouble to find drivers for the xp64bit. I want to transfer data over from an old hp xp to this new hd and new abit motherboard & drivers. Will it work ? Can I wright over the xp64bit or will I need to format the xp64bit and then "pc-relocate" the old os/data from the hp ?
Thanks
DaBaddogCan a mod please move this from the FAQ section?
To answer your question - I would be inclined to reformat the HDD of the 64-bit XP machine and reinstall XP completely.
You can then slave the old HDD and transfer any data you still need.
You will not be able to transfer the old XP and the old HDD because the motherboard drivers will be wrong, if I'm reading your post right.
Does this help?Everyone needs their own WIndows CD sooner or later. In this case it is sooner.

The OEM EULA binds that copy of XP to the HP hardware. It is not meant to be transferred. Beyond that, Calum is right it will have problems because it was installed on a totally different set of hardware.The OP didn't say it was OEM, or did I miss it?
I know the OEM license allows for use on only one machine, so if it was OEM then reformatting and removing XP isn't enough if they change the hardware, right?Let's find out if he has an XP CD and what type it is.

Regular XP and 64bit XP....what do you think ? ?

patio.   8-)If you have a legit activation Key that you recieved when you purchased the computer it is completely legal to use a copied disk of the operating system to reinstall windows.

For example- When I first got my E-machines T-2642 it came with windows preinstalled and had a set of window xp home disks and a sticker on the back of the case with the windows activation key.
When the power supply died and killed the motherboard I replaced the motherboard with a different model, the original install disks were setup in a way that they would only install on the original hardware so my original disks were usless but I had technically had already purchased the operating system so what was I to do in the event that I need to reinstall?
Buy another copy of windows?
NO!, screw that.
I had a friend burn me a bootable XP home install disk and used the original key on the back of the case.  
In the event that the key doesnt work, phone Microsoft customer support and tell them your activation key is not working and they will give you some weird code to INPUT that will make it work.

Everything here is perfectly legal so long as you are installing the operating system on a single computer belonging to you.Maybe yes or maybe no.

What everyone is missing is he said it was an HP. That is an OEM install. HP's do not come with real Windows CD's. They either come with restore discs or the software is installed on the hard drive and if you're lucky and smart, you get to make a backup of that. Sometimes you can get a Windows CD from them, but no guarantee on that.

Have a read here.

http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/oemeula.htm

The key point is In general, OEM software may not be transferred from one system to another system.  However, the computer system can certainly be UPDATED with new components without the requirement of a new software license.  The only exception to this is the motherboard  1.  If the motherboard is replaced  2, the computer system is deemed "new" and a new license would be required. Other PC components may be upgraded, including a hard drive. Though if the hard drive  3 is replaced/upgraded, the operating system must first be removed from the old hard drive. To restate: the operating system is "married" to the computer system on which it is originally installed.
Hello,

I would like to thank all of youse guys for responding to my post. It seems from all of the responses that I am generally ...oooh,thathurts. I thought ...that since I have an old hp with XP and have just built myself a new puter I would "just" transfer the XP os and all data to the new . ( simplicity is just to complex for some )
I was hopeing to sample the XP 64bit os but finding drivers or any support to finding the drivers has taken up 3 weeks of my time. This is especially TRUE for NIC card and/or usb network ADAPTERS. (D link usb )And interestingly enough all tech support personell have told me to go online to download drivers..
So I thought ..well Iam tired of think'n and Iam going back to the abacus and an etch n sketch.
Thanks again,
DaBaddogWanna borrow my TRS-80? Its not as fast as your abacus and an etch n sketch but its easier to use.

Hello,

One DAY both my CDR and DVDRW stopped working.  No autoplay.  No big deal.  I figured I could just jump start them from "my computer."  Problem is that whenever I rght click the icon, it said insert disc in Drive F or Drive E - their respective drives.  

Next, I tried the autorun FIX it tool from Microsoft - NO luck.

I went into registry and all values were correct.

I unplugged and switched the drives - NO LUCK.

I deleted and reintstalled drivers - NO LUCK

FINALLY,  I WENT AND PURCHASED TWO NEW DRIVES AND...you guessed it - NO LUCK !

Can anyone out there please help!  I cant even install software!

Many Many thanks in advance.

Bamboozled!

-Jeffdarth_96...... It's EXTREMELY rare that both the optical drives would fail at the same time ....... So I would be changing out the IDE cable ( I assume both drives are on the same channel )

dl65

Well I don't know if I can help, but it would be a big help to others if you would post more information like what your OS is, what KIND of mobo you have, PSU, and if you installed all the correct drivers.u not provide enough info, like what os u use..
try do this.. right click on my computer, click MANAGE, goto storage and the disk management, then TELL me wat u see ..

Yeah I figured I didn't give enough info... But thankfully I figured it out. My computer wasn't configured for a drive over 137Gb. THANKS for the help THOUGH.

I have a program that I just found, I think it's called Remote Information System (I'm not at my work computer currently), and they offer network inventory of about anything you could imagine.  The one thing that I do need, however, they don't provide.  Great news though! They ALLOW you to do custom searches of information that you may want.

I was wondering, is there a way to search, preferably the registry, but anywhere works and I'm sure I'll find out how to apply it, for how MANY slots you have open for your memory and what type the computer takes?  We are currently in the run of updating most of our computers' memory and this will be a gigantic HELP.  

I know that it is possible to preform a search since www.4allmemory.com has a little nifty program that tells us what the memory type is, how many slots, etc...

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!!
--MikeTry using Crucial's tool.
That might be what you're looking for.Sort of.  I want to be able search via my workstation as to what the type and slots are available on all the computers on the network.  I'd like to use it along-side my current network inventory program, unless there is a better network inventory program I could use.

Overall, this proves there's got to be a way to search your computer.. but how is the question.

Thanks again,
--MikeAh, I see, sorry.
Didn't see the part about wanting to do it over a network but I do now, I should learn to read.
I did know of one, but I now can't find it and I deleted it from my PC too for some reason.
I'll keep searching for it and I'll let you know if I find anything.Nobody else feel discouraged on this subject! :-P
Quote

Nobody else feel discouraged on this subject! :-P

i have a LAPTOP with windows 7, it is rarely used.  i got it out today to use and the cursor freezes up after 90 seconds or so and wont move after that, both with or without using a mouse?  any ideas?So Windows 7 doesnt boot... you dont see the windows 7 logo, it gets hung up before that point at a CURSER that freezes?

*This can be caused by a number of reasons. Was this laptop protected well in storage or could it have taken a fall or blow to it. A laptop that was otherwise working fine, you PUT it away in storage and then turn it on one day and all of a SUDDEN it wont boot to windows is usually the result of hard drive corruption or a damaged hard drive. Would you HAPPEN to have a Windows 7 repair disc made up for this laptop or can create one on another Windows 7 system for use on this laptop, or do you have the original installation media? If your lucky its only data corruption and not a damaged hard drive or laptop main board.

Hey Guys, Happy New Year.
I need a little help I got a new PC over the
weekend. (The Motherbroad fried in my old PC) I am all setup, but I have a small problem.
My old HD I want to reuse but it has the XP OS on it
still! (Old Hard Drive ATA) (The new PC's HD is SATA) I do have one free ATA slot to use in the new PC, the other ATA slot is being used by two DVD Burners. 1.How can I install this and GET my old info.
for that HD or 2. Just erase the old HD and reuse it
in my new PC.

I don't have a problem physically installing the second HD, I know where it goes IE: ATA port, MASTER, Slave, ect.  My problem is what to do before, during, or after the boot screen!  When I installed the secondary, it went to the screen that asks you to choose, normal START, safe mode, ect. No matter what I choose, it restarted and then looped me back to that screen again.  Now correct me if I am wrong but don’t I need to hit F6 or one of those keys during boot-up to get to the screen I need? If so, what do I do from there? Can you send me to a website or email
me the link on how to do this step by step? Thanks in advance for your help!Okay go into your bios by pushing the "Delete" key as it is booting then change the boot order from "cd/dvd" to "floppy or harddrive (which has the OS you want to use not the other)". The harddrive should be either the second thing that boots or the third either way should work.The IDE needs to be jumpered as slave and be on the middle CONNECTOR on either IDE cable...otherwise the machine will not boot to the SATA drive.

Right now it is trying to boot to the old install.Remember my Main HD is SATA.  The Second is ATA, I have no Master/Slave issues. Ok, Somebody please correct me if I am wrong but, there is a way in the Bios to turn off the ATA Port so that my secondary HD can't boot. Remember my main HD is Sata. If this is the case, will I have normal access to windows after the boot screen? If so, do I just simply retrieve the data I want from, the old HD, in normal windows put it on my Sata HD? Then just format and partition the old HD from Disk Management?

Hi Folks, new to all this and only have moderate knowledge of computers, so be gentle. Here goes.
I have a system with two hard drives, all was working fine but slowing down etc so chose to do format on C drive . D drive HOLDS music only. Format on XP went ok , everything back and working fine.
Problem : In My Computer the D drive no longer shows up. I have been on device manager and it shows there with no errors, working fine, best driver in use etc.
I have tried going into disk management via Control panel. Drive shows as OK but no drive letter there.
I tried right click to change or assign drive letter but option not available.

I cannot access a lot of good music.

Done all the USUAL re leads, connections. I'm sure its a software problem.
Help
TimHere Ya Go...

patio.  8-)Thanks for the link to taking ownership of a file but can you briefly explain how/what this will doIt will allow access to the files on the hard drive you can't see right now ... Quote

In My Computer the D drive no longer shows up.

Done all the usual re leads, connections. I'm sure its a software problem.

My 12' apple power book’s hard drive has crashed and 2 other data recovery companies have been unable to recovery my data which includes business apps and about 3000 digital pics of my 13 month old SON... ech...that will teach me to verify backup data..

Anyone have an opinion if I should KEEP searching for that holy grail of data recovery..?
Could you plz help me?
Thanks
If two data recovery companies have failed, I am afraid your chances are poor.Recently - (during the past 2 months) I am aware of two cases that were each at two different well-known and reputable data recovery companies and we were able to get the data back. But both jobs took several weeks to complete and the charges were $18,000 and $19,500 (very high for single drive recoveries.). FINALLY, we could locate a company called SAlvageData Recovery Lab Inc. who are reasonable and very prompt. I don’t know your experience with the company you’ve been to but I will recommend this company strongly after all the data drive has got the invaluable pics of you son. If you WISH you can call them at 1 203-973-0242. I hope you get your crucial data back.

I'd left my computer on while I took my dog for a walk, and it was WORKING fine. When I got back, the computer was off, and the power button did absolutely nothing. My mother INSISTS that she didn't touch my computer while I was out and she was the only one in the house. I'm pretty sure computers don't just haul off and commit suicide, so I'd really like to figure out what happened. I don't think there was a power surge or anything, because nothing else in the house was bothered, and my computer was plugged into a power BAR with surge protection. I tried changing the power cable anyway, but that did nothing. My monitor is fine, and so are my speakers, so it's not a problem with the powerbar.

When I opened the computer up nothing was unplugged, nothing looked burnt or anything, and someone told me that you COULD usually see a burn mark or something if something shorted. I have a wierd computer case, and the switch is off in this plastic bubble/handle at the top, and I couldn't figure out how to open that up to look at it. So it still might be the switch. I think it's a problem with either the switch itself (which is an electronic switch by the way) or the power supply, or maybe the motherboard in between I guess.

Anyone have any ideas what could cause something like that to happen? It's a relatively new computer, only a year old. Just to reiterate, nothing happens at all when I push the power button. The fans don't turn on, the LED's don't turn on. Nothing turns on at all. I haven't added anything new hardware wise either.Try unplugging it and pressing the power button in and holding
it for 30 seconds,then plug it back in and see what happens.

If that don't WORK...next unplug wait 30 minutes and repeat
the procedure.Take out the power supply and test it in another computer, if you don't have another computer i'm sure a shop wouldn't charge you to test it. Well thats the first thing to try anyway.There is also a small switch on the PSU...try Street's suggestion with the switch in both positions...

patio.   8-)

I have the Gateway 7330Z notebook w/ 480 MB of RAM and the Intel Pentium 4
processor. I think all of the video and sound cards are whatever came standard with my notebook.
As far as i know, i have all of the required DRIVERS and up to date
ActiveX. I have been having problems playing some of the new games i recently
bought (Guild Wars, Half-Life 2, and F.E.A.R.) When i play, the fan in the back
sounds like its being overworked and the bottom of my computer gets a little
hot.  After about 20 mins to a half hour of playing these games, my screen just
turns white and has no response whatsoever.  I have to turn it off manually.  One in awhile i'll have the same thing happen when i'm playing very basic 2D games online or when i'm running a simple virus scan or installing something.
I know the basics about computers and i'm currently majoring in computer science, but i honestly know nothing about troubleshooting these types of things. I was thinking about having more RAM installed on my computer, but i wasnt sure if
that would completely solve my problem or be a total waste of my money.  Any advice
you have regarding my problem will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!
I don't think more memory is going to stop your computer from crashing.

From what you describe it sounds like a heat problem.  Not sure what is to be done with that for a LAPTOP, in a desktop it would be cake to slap in a few case fans, etc...

There are these little laptop platforms with fans and such built in that claim to keep your laptop cooler when you are running heavy apps, but I don't know much about those either.

Guess I am not alot of help in actually solving your problem  But I can pretty much assure you that more memory is not likely the fix.Thanks a lot for the advice.  Although i'm not sure what i'm going to be able to do, at least i know not to waste my money in buying more RAM.  

Right now i'm researching those laptop cooling pads that you were talking about.  I'm not sure if that will solve my problems either, but at least they're relatively cheap.

I was just hoping that i didnt waste my money in buying all of these games, but i guess we'll see what happens.  

Thanks againGames are never a waste of money!

Keep checking back, other, wiser, people may reply with other things to try.lol well they're a waste of money if i can only play them in 10 minute increments, but otherwise i completely agree.

i could pretty much use any advice possible though, i think i might get one of these cooling pads (they're going for only about $10 on ebay and i'm hoping the the low price isnt related to its performance) unless someones comes up with the miracle solution that i desparately need.  

thanks againIf it is still under warranty that would be an opportune time to use t.

If not, make sure it is as dust free inside as a laptop can be.

The fan itself may have problems, if it has not always been this way. How long have you owned this machine. When using it are you on a hard surface (good) vs. a soft surface which molds to the bottom and effectively limits the cooling ducts?Have you done any overclocking?Could be the fan as suggested, with 480 of ram I would suggest when you have the free cash to upgrade to 1gb and if you have the spare cash invest in a external hard drive for your computer, you can get 250gb's for so cheap now.

The white screen thing really is odd. Quote

Could be the fan as suggested, with 480 of ram I would suggest when you have the free cash [highlight]to upgrade to 1gb [/highlight]and if you have the spare cash invest in a external hard drive for your computer, you can get 250gb's for so cheap now.

The white screen thing really is odd.

Hi everyone, merry Christmas and all that (bah, humbug).
I'm looking to buy (you guessed it) an eternal DVD-RW drive for my notebook in the January sales.
I know I have a choice between USB and Firewire - does either offer an advantage over the other?
And will my 4-pin Firewire connector work with a normal Firewire drive?
The REASON I'm getting it is because my internal drive is pretty slow, so this one needs to be fast.
I'd like it to support DVD+/-R/RW and DVD+/-R DL.
Basically everything, but DVD-RAM isn't important to me as I never use it.
I'd ideally like it to be pretty small and quiet too, and perhaps silver, but performance and features take precedence over looks and size.
So, does anyone have any recommendations?
Brands, models etc., and a price ESTIMATE please - remember I'm in the UK, so UK retailers and prices in GBP so I don't have to work too hard converting the prices.
Thanks in advance, and if I need to supply more info let me know.
Calum.USB 2 is about the same as firewire so no real advantage to that, and most EXTERNAL drives have USB conncectivity, so I would go that way.

So, if it is a USB 2 connection you are good to go. (Your next machine may not have firewire anyway.)

Any major maker should be fine. Check the reviews at www.newegg.com or other sites for actual USER opinions. I am not in the UK so can't advise on that.OK thanks, was just wondering if there was an advantage to Firewire.
I'm off to www.dabs.com for the January sales (starts 10am boxing day :-?)
Strange.
Anyway, I should be able to pick up a good deal there.OK, what does everyone think of these three drives?
An LG drive with Lightscribe
A Lite-On drive
A Freecom drive
All around the same sort of price, same speeds, same supported media.
Is there any advantage to any of the three?
I don't need Lightscribe.
Also, money isn't a problem, but I'd prefer not to spend more than I have to, ie if there's no advantage to the most expensive one I'd prefer the cheapest one.
Any thoughts on the three mentioned?
Any other models I should consider?
Thanks in advance for your opinions.
Edit: Links fixed.  Sorry about that.OK, sorry to do this, but . . . *bump*.*Bump* Bump* Anybody know a good bump bump joke?

Bump! Bump! Who's There?

PeckerWood

PeckerWood Who?

PeckerWood The Bird DumbA$$ed Cat!

I liked A Lite-On Drive.

http://www.dabs.com/productview.aspx?Quicklinx=48QX&CategorySelectedId=11155&NavigationKey=11155,4294959458,40210000,354900000&v=2#infoarea
Either of the first two.  Oh dear, someone's messing with my links . . . it's not me . . .
Hold on, I'll get the right links.
Edit: Links above fixed.  Sorry.I have alwys had good luck with LiteOn.So even if the LINK was wrong........

I still pick LiteOn.

http://www.dabs.com/productview.aspx?Quicklinx=459G&CategorySelectedId=11155&NavigationKey=11155,4294959458,40210000,354900000&v=2#infoareaI like Lite-On too, my internal drive is Lite-On and I've had no trouble with it other than the slow speed, but that's because it's a notebook drive.
Plus, that's the cheapest and it looks pretty good too.
So I think I'll go with that one.Just wanted to say thanks to everyone.
I bought the Lite-On and it works great, looks good, it's quiet, fast and I've had no problems.
I even recommended it to a friend.
So thanks for the advice guys.

30 gig hardrive.     i installed xp via a reinstallation cd from my laptop.   i installed with all default options.
i used the system without problem to install almost 13 gb of files.   it still worked fine.     i set my power settings to eventually hibernate after 30 minutes of downtime.    this morning i go to move my mouse and get no response even 10 minutes later.      i push the power button on my tower to power it up and eventually get the dell picture on the screen and then eventually the prompt      invalid boot diskette    insert boot diskette in A              when i do put the diskette in, it prompts me to start installation all over agian.         i am also unable to get into dos using f8 when i start up my tower.  it just always goes to the same eventual prompt  as listed above.             help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Well I am surprised that you got it to install from the laptop's CD. I assume this is a real Windows CD as opposed to a restore. You will have trouble with WGA in the near future on both machines most likely as Windows is only licensed to one machine per CD.

I don't know if this relates to your current dilemma or not. Did you activate WIndows or go through the WGA test at the Windows update site at any point? Does the timing of that corellate to the problem beginning?first, thanks for responding.

the desktop is a dell 800megahertz with 384mb ram from 2001   (i know, why waste my time?------its financial related).
     i have not "activated" the desktop o.s. yet, so your warning is being taken seriously.  I need to free up space on my almost but filled 40gb laptop.  
     after work, i inserted my laptop's xp home sp2 installation/reinstallation cd (the same one i used to install it yesterday), into the desktop cd drive and booted up via the cd by exiting the SETUP process.  
     as of right now, this above o.s. is working and my respective desktop power settings are set to only activate screen saver, (leave everything on always).   this desktop 30gb pc currently has about 13gb of picture files on it.  i have an xp pro o.s. cd, (older version than desktop current o.s),  with a supposedly good 25 digit activation code.  this was given to me by someone who i trust for it to be legit to run. (not sure about ACTIVATING or registering),   i have a valid and working 160 gig external usb 2.0 harddrive, (partitioned for 18gb, 130gb, and 4gb).  I am considering relocating the desktop's 13gb of picture files to the external drive and then inserting the older xp pro o.s. cd into the desktop cd drive and then installing it.   i am concerned that there may be issues when i delete the newer xp home sp2 o.s. and attempt to install the older xp pro cd from my friend. i am currently in a quandry on what "path" to take.
either way, i need to get this desktop up and available for use.      any advice or response is grateful
Well I WOULD not attempt to activate the OS from your laptop on your desktop.

If the older XP CD is good and not running on any other machine, I would format and reinstall that on the desktop, after backing up the data files. Be sure and have SP2 downloaded on a CD as well as an antivirus and antispyware. Have all of these loaded before even attempting to log onto the Internet. Don't even connect the cable until you are protected or you will be infected within seconds.

First thing after that would be to go to Windows Update. You will know soon enough if that is a legitimate CD.  thanks again for the response.
     i will attempt/follow the advice.  i learned the hard way about unprotected internet connecting years ago.   once i was on the right track,  i  helped less knowledgable friends with free antivirus, antispyware, and firewall via the kim komando website.  its nice to know there are people out there like you willing to share advice and help.          by the way,  we are on the backside of a mountain and other than dial up   via a long way up our driveway  (10-12kbs max), only 2 providers offer via www.thelist.com, and 85.00
per month is not in the works so my "echo" will continue to stay pretty undesirable to most.
                                                    take CARE

i have 3COM switch superstack 3 model 3300   3C16980A, need to UPDATE the firmware, can anyone help pls? i totally DONT know how... :-?

http://support.3com.com/infodeli/tools/switches/ss3/3300/3c16980a/16980ua.pdf

My 12v voltage is at 11.13 and my Vcore is fluctuating from 1.296 to 1.397 (CPU-Z)
SpeedFan
+3.3v= 3.31v
+5v= 5.11v
-5v= 1.54v
+5VSB= 5.43v
+12v= 11.13v (Bios just showed 11.71) has been at 11.00
-12v= 0.47v
VBAT= 0.15 (I have no battery backup so this should be zero)

Im thinking its time to take this in for warranty (bought in december have receipt and package).

Am I correct to assume that this power supply is not working PROPERLY? Ive had one random shutdown and 2 random reboots in the past 2 days.

Another thing to note is that my video card died recently at the ripe old age of 1 monthI would definitely not trust that PSU. What make and wattage is it labeled?I picked it up at a local Staples store for 50 bucks, it is labeled as a Retail Plus 465watt and claims to have 26amp 12volt.
I can't find any infomation on it with GOOGLE or even anything with the UL number.

I really don't like the fact that the Vcore voltage is jumping around constantly even during idle (1.344v to 1.392v, 1.328 to 1.360 with CPU burn in running)

Am I correct in assuming that the Vcore should not jump around?
Not being able to find a branded item on google should raise a red flag...I took it back and exchanged it for a new one, something weird I noticed is that the new one although the identical model has a different number of connectors.

Anyway I installed it ran speedfan and CPU-Z and CPU burn in and took a screenshot after it had been running for a few minutes

The Vcore seems to jump around still and the 12v still seems low although in bios the 12v is shown at 11.8 which is probably more accurate but I suspect the single 12v rail is not very robust.

For a future purchase I am considering an SLI approved dual rail model from Ultra

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1273341&Sku=ULT31848
Its 79.00 dollars, 600watts and has an 18 and 20 amp rating for the 12v rails.I would consider an Antec a MUCH better value. Wattage stickered on the side of the unit really means little on unknown or house brands. Antec, EH?
I'll check it out , thanks

Edit- You didn't mean Vantec did you?, I can only find vantec psu's at tiger direct.
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1407918&CatId=106

Vantec / iON 2 / 460-Watt / ATX / 120mm Fan / 24-Pin / SATA-Ready / Power Supply
76.99Antec, as in www.newegg.com    

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?DEPA=0&type=&Description=antec+power+supply&Submit=ENE&N=0&Ntk=allI can't purchase from Newegg because I am in Canada and shipping would be over 70.00 bucks by itself.
*sobs quietly *LET's wait for a comment from dl65. He is Canadian and buys lots of stuff. We'll see what he recommends.   stones ....... If I wanted a good PSU ....and not a huge one ...... this is what I would consider......
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1273353&CatId=1079

Note , the one you mentioned ,
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=127334 1&Sku=ULT31848       would be a good choice as well.

Never buy a cheap PSU ........ remember you only get what you pay for.........
and another tip when choosing a PSU ....... If there are two with the same outputs and the same specs ......... and one is heavier ........ thats the one you should go with ........ ( dl65s rule of THUMB # 17 )

Hope this helps ......
dl65  
Thank you very much