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So my monitor that has hdmi is having problems, Im going to take it in to get fixed but I´m using an old standard monitor now not with my video card.

I don´t know how to get the AUDIO back on.

 I went into the BIOS and turned on the onboard audio, but when I plug in my headphones it doesn´t show up or have sound. 

Motherboard: ASRock g41m-vs3r2.0 
Which OS version are you using of Windows. It should be a matter of going to control PENAL sound properties and you should see a DROP down to specify the onboard audio VS the video CARDS HDMI HD Audio. Once you set this preference to have audio from the built in sound card you should be all set.

Hi,
I'm using an AOC Spectrum 9klr CRT monitor and WINDOWS XP.
In the last few weeks my monitor has begun having some problems, and there doesn't seem to be a pattern as to which programs are open when it occurs.
I'll be using the computer, sometimes it will not have been running for long, sometimes for hours, then everything on the screen except the mouse movement freezes, the whole screen switches to black, comes back with some scrambled lines and colours, then returns to Windows. After this has happened video files will play their audio but not their visuals untill I restart the computer.
I THOUGHT it might have been a problem with my video card, but I've LEFT the computer running with an old monitor for a week straight and the problem didn't occur.
Any clues would be appreciated!What video card do you have?
What happened before this started?
Does the problem happen on other PCs with that monitor?Also what refresh rate and resolution.Can't think of anything in particular that might have caused this to begin. I'd recently got a new motherboard and formatted, then this started happening occasionally, then almost daily.

My video card is a GeCube RADEON 9200 SE Game Buster.
The resolution is 1024x768, 75 Hertz refresh rate.
I hadn't considered trying the monitor on another PC yet, could be worth a shot.
Have you tried updating your graphics card drivers?
Do you know what happened before this started?
Can you think of anything, no matter how small, that you did or changed?So I ran the monitor on another system yesterday and it went well. Plugged it back into my computer and and after a day it did the same thing.
I'm back to thinking it's the video card with the problem. What's the best WAY to uninstall all traces of the previous drivers and update them? Quote

What video card do you have?
What happened before this started?
Does the problem happen on other PCs with that monitor?

My video card is a GeCube RADEON 9200 SE Game Buster.
The resolution is 1024x768, 75 Hertz refresh rate.

• Video card is low end so not really suitable for gaming
• Power supply is cheap and not something I would trust
• 4gb RAM is somewhat low these days
• Only has a mechanical hard drive

• Video Card
• Power Supply
• RAM (what even is that)
• More than one hard drive ()

Hi group last night while trying to upgrade the MRS Dell Inspiron while changing the heat sink I accidently pull the processor out of the socket.I cant get the machine to boot up again so I would like to clone the information from her drive ONTO another drive in another machine.Can somebody help me out Im new to doing this so I would great greatly appreciate the help thank you. Yes...moving it to a working PC is a great idea...
For cloning my favorite new app is Easus ToDo.
 You will need enuff free space on that PC's HDD to accomodate the image file created...however best way would be an external HDD with plenty of space. QUOTE

I accidently pull the processor out of the socket.I cant get the machine to boot up again so I would like to clone the information from her drive onto another drive in another machine.

I've posted this a couple of other places with nothing to show for it, so hopefully someone can help me out. I made a stupid mistake. My monitor has been WORKING, but Windows was not recognizing it for some reason. I was just playing around with some of the settings, which I shouldn't have been doing. In the monitor properties, I changed the setting to Do Not USE This Device. It prompted me that I needed to restart the computer before the changes would take effect. I then thought it over and realized that might not be a good change. So I then changed it back to Use This Device, and it prompted me again to restart to make the changes. I did that thinking it would just go back to the WAY it was. Well......I guess I was wrong. Now every time my computer gets to the point where Windows is supposed to load up, nothing happens. I'm guessing this is because there is no monitor associated with it. It does the same thing when I start in safe mode and VGA mode, which is no surprise. I'm so frustrated right now. Is there any way that I can change that monitor setting without being in Windows? Any help would be very greatly appreciated.

Chris

When you go into the menu that you select safe mode in, try instead selecting to boot from the last known good profile. Quote

When you go into the menu that you select safe mode in, try instead selecting to boot from the last known good profile.

It's PnP right? so shouldn't it just start right up if you put on a diffrent monitor? :-?

Are you sure that the cables are plugged in and havent come loose? The plug is in the outlet?  Windows should automatically recognize it.  You are able to see preposting or something on the screen before windows load?

What Windows version is this? Do you have a real WIndows CD that says Microsoft all over it?

Rig Specs
Haswell Intel Core i5 4590
4-8 gbs of ram (other stick is currently in LOAN in another rig I built for my fiance so currently at 4 til I can buy her some of her own)
Zotac Nvidia GTX 960 4gb
Gigabyte LGA 1150 GA-B85M-D3H Mobo
1 TB 2.5" Seagate SSHD
250 GB Samsung 2.5" SSD

Anyways, SO I moved into a new apartment, got my internet setup going then I hooked up my computer to FINALLY sit down and relax after moving from one upstairs apartment to another upstairs (never doing that again), anyways I opened up overwatch and tried loading a game and where I usually run 60fps consistently on Epic settings with 100 percent RENDERING detail, I was suddenly running around 8 fps, I changed graphics settings to the LOWEST with no difference whatsoever, I opened facebook and I couldn't even run a facebook video without framerate lag. The only tinkering I did between hooking it up was I uninstalled and reinstalled the same hard drive because I temporarily used the backup SSHD in a enclosure so I could run my movies on there on my laptop instead (the OS is on the SSD which while it did get unplugged it wasn't removed). So I did what you'd expect, I uninstalled my GPU reinstalled it, did the same with my RAM, looked for loose connections, changed the sata connection source on the mobo, and reloaded the nvidia driver to no effect whatsoever, I then installed the GPU in my fiances rig to test it and went back to normal performance with the GPU so that's not the source, I need ideas on how to fix this because I'm at an utter loss Quote

The only tinkering I did between hooking it up was I uninstalled and reinstalled the same hard drive because I temporarily used the backup SSHD in a enclosure so I could run my movies on there on my laptop instead (the OS is on the SSD which while it did get unplugged it wasn't removed).

My friend accidentally spilled water on the keyboard of my laptop and I immediately turned it off and sat it under the SUN. It's been 3 days since that happened and I never turned it on ever since. I went to a technician recently and he said that it should be fix immediately. Do I really need to get it fix or I should just tell them to open the inside of the laptop and see if there's still moisture and clean it? Hoping you REMOVED the battery from laptop as well. The battery is what will cause damage as it sits WET. The battery still applies power to some circuitry and so if that circuitry got wet wet electronics that have electrical potential eat away metal through electrolysis. Placing the laptop into a large sealed bag with dry rice is one way to dry it out, but only seen this done with cell phones. Most laptops that took a bath survival of them is dependent on how much liquid, where the liquid exposure and how FAST electrical potential is removed from circuitry, as well as how quickly the electronics are dried.

If the laptop was left in direct sunlight and very hot to the touch for 3 days then it might be OK to apply power and see if it boots
The bagged rice trick works great for laptops as well.....course you need a zip bag large enuff...and more rice.I turned on  my laptop last night to see if it will boot and it did. Does it mean that its now okay to use it or maybe I should open the inside and clean it before using? id leave it be and not open it. Id run some testing on it, games , web surfing etc. If all works then you got VERY LUCKY  DaveLembke is right.

If it works at all it is dry.

I need a new laptop. I seem to have a hard time finding the specs in their descriptions and don't know that MUCH anyway and if what I'm getting is a good value for the price or for what I want it to do so I would really appreciate laptop model recommendations from PEOPLE good at assessing all of the components. I want a laptop that can run GAMES like Zoo Tycoon 2, Assasins Creed 2 and the Witcher at ultra high settings. These are pretty old so this isn't really necessitating a "gaming laptop" is it? If it could play some newer games at passable levels (it runs with a good enough frame rate that I can play effectively and doesn't look like total garbage) like say The Old Republic that would be nice but I am generally content to use a console for newer games so I really want to keep it pretty cheap. Also if it can still play some REALLY old games like Zoo Tycoon 1 this would be important although this is an issue with the new operating systems isn't it? Can I get around this?Honestly spec recommendations are great too. When I say I can't find specs what I can't find in the descriptions on Amazon on many of the laptops is the GDDR which I understand to be the most important part of the graphics card?See Here...

Then check your list of games against the laptop your looking at...
3 components determine game quality...CPU...GPU...and RAMTake a look to this website: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/laptop/
You can filter laptops with different settings.

The most important thing on a GPU is the clockspeed, but it can be misleading because not all MHz all EQUALS. It depends on the number of cores (stream processor for AMD or CUDA core for Nvidia), the gen, etc. Better look at real world benchmarks to see the true performance of a GPU (just google "[GPU name] benchmark [game name]")

For the games you mentioned, maybe an integrated GPU from a modern CPU could be enough, but I'm not sure. Someone with better knowledge could tell you.

Some of you Windows 10 users may have experienced an issue with your Logitech WEBCAM after UPDATING your computers to Microsoft's latest Anniversary Edition.  The Logitech Webcam software WORKS, but when you try to capture a photo or video you get the FOLLOWING message:

Launcher_Main.exe has stopped working

Logitech has identified the problem.  It would seem Microsoft dropped support for compressed MJPG and H.264 streams for webcams.  Microsoft is working on an update to correct the issue.  No information, as of yet, to when this update will be available.

Just thought I'd GIVE the Logitech Webcam users a "heads-up".

I'm trying to install a Dynex DX-SC51 sound card (pci) And my computer is not recognizing the sound card. I'm almost positive i instailled it correctly but the metal foldy over thing has a few centimeters and doesnt GO all the way down(part with the scew). But I could screw it in and was all connected. :-?  Any way i'm not a computer star or anything but what am I over looking or do wrong.

Plug and play my....

Any help would very awesomeIf the metal plate with the 90 degree BEND in the top is a few centimeters off then you definately did not seat the card in the slot correctly.  Usually this is caused because on some systems the metal plate has to slip into a slot in the case wall below the motherboard where you can not see it.  Remove your card and try to reinstall it correctly.yeah the metal thing on the bottom slid down into the part i cant see. I dont see how i can get it down go down any more without using raw force. I will turn off the computer and take another look at itok yeah its probley not in right. But how do i get it to go in all the way?Instructions complete with pictures.

http://www.pcguide.com/byop/byop_SeatingthePCICardintheSlot.htm

If you are having to use a great deal of force, something is wrong or not lined up correctly.Dont be AFRAID to put some force behind it.  its all the way it can go. It seems like the card is just to big??What is the model of your computer and the brand?

Is it one of those slim/narrow computers?

Please answer both questions What is the computer or motherboard make/model? Some small form factors have size limitations.its a hp pavilion a562n

slim/narrow computers(dont THINK so)I see no reason the card shouldn't fit.

Here are the official instructions from HP for installing a sound card in that model.

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07166&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=408385&lang=en

Something doesn't make sense, the card *should* fit as it looks like your typical PCI card height.

If you have a digital camera maybe you could show us a picture or two.I feel STUPID on my 10000 try it finally slid in. On another note when i try to turn off my onboard audio i click enter and it says "view only Item".In the BIOS it tells you that when you click enter?

You are under the "advanced" menu right?

If that is the case try the I/O Device Configuration

For example, my other drive, a 2TB SEAGATE, uses P8. I SEE a P7, and logistically it would be convenient, but I don't want to jack the MOTHERBOARD. It's an Intel SSD 540 series on an Acer Predator.  Appreciate any guidance.SATA power are all the same; use any ONE you want.What CC said. No reason an SSD would 'jack the motherboard'. Use any spare power connector you like.

i only know a little about computers and i will check this daily till i get a solution
k my computer is a compaq presario sr1234nx the USB ports in the back are not working i have a 9-1 card reader in the front with one usb port that is a little screwey (not working all the time connection problems ect.)

i would like to get the 5 in the back working again

the problem is about a year ago i triped over a headset cord and it ripped out of one of the usb ports in the back i stopped useing that usb port and used the other 4
about a week after that i got a message i cant remember what the message said (was a year ago) but what i got from it was that there was possible a SHORT circet and the computer was shutting down the usb ports i accepted and maid due with the front one.

in device manager under USB controllers i have:
intel(r) 8201db/dbm usb 2.0 enhanced host controller - 24cd
intel(r) 8201db/dbm usb universal host controller -24c2
intel(r) 8201db/dbm usb universal host controller -24c4
intel(r) 8201db/dbm usb universal host controller -24c7
USB mass storage device
USB root hub
USB root hub
USB root hub
USB root hub

its says all of them are working properly and there is no problems

like i said just want to get the back ones working again cause the front one is gona be kaputs soon any advice or help would be much apreciated
thanx in advace Well if your computer is reporting SHORTS in your USB ports they are either useless already or on a very limited time.

But, you can go buy a PCI USB card for about 15 dollars that will give you 4 NEW ports in the back.

Or, if your computer is under warranty, you could always go that route.thank you
i'll pick up the pci card
its GOOD to know that there pretty much toast instead of trying to mess around with them for weeks befor reliazing there toastLook for a card that will give you 4 ports in the back (likely this could require a mounting plate for 2 ports and 2 ports on the card itself) and one with an internal connector for front panel USB port.  They sell one like that down the street from me for 20 bucks Canadian.

I have a problem with sounds, I can play any video file and hear the AUDIO with it, but I can't hear any system sounds,flash or web sites with sound. I can hear the sounds in the speaker test utility that came with the sound card. I can however play a wav file in windows MEDIA player.
I'm sure it must be some setting somewhere, but I can't find it.
I not sure if it has always been this way since I BUILT the computer,since I very rarely have  the sound turned on.Details about the equipment/software could be helpful.AMD Athelon 64x2 Dual
XP Home sp2
Realtek AC'97 audio
IE7Have you looked in Adjust audio properties and is there anything TICKED off that shouldn't be?  Have you opened volumn control and made sure mute isnt ticked on any control that shouldn't be??

have lenovo b40-30 with intel n2840 duel core and 4gb ram,the cpu is nearly always running at 100% is there a better cpu to put in or get a better laptop?1) Which process is using the cycles?

2) I suggest you run full system scans with both your installed av and with MalwareBytesAllans questions when answered should pinpoint what is causing the use of the CPU.

Additionally this is a weak CPU and as far as laptops go its best not to upgrade them to a faster CPU as for the better CPU if you did have one available to upgrade to, would create additional heat that the laptop was not designed to deal with removal of.

I have upgraded laptop CPUs in the past and then DEALT with a laptop thats running too hot. One laptop had an ability in the BIOS to go green setting and underclock it by 100Mhz which helped some for a Celeron to a Pentium 3 upgrade I did a while back to drop from 600Mhz to 500Mhz. It was originally a feature to extend BATTERY life, but i used it on that DELL C600 to reduce heat from the Pentium 3 SINCE the heatsink was never intended for the Pentium 3 and fan with heatsink even with new thermal compound was barely ABLE to keep up.

You might be looking into getting a new laptop... A new low cost laptop would benchmark 2 to 3x better than this one as well as the GPU would be upgraded too so you would get better video performance.

Many are making a big deal about the news of the Skylake CPU release by Intel. It had been promised earlier, but seems to be weeks ahead of schedule.

So, My question is: Why Does That MATTER to the PC Industry?
here are just a few possible answers.
Quote.
An initial batch of Skylake CPUs (6600K and 6700K) was announced for immediate availability during the Gamescom on August 5, 2015, unusually soon after the release of its predecessor, Broadwell, which had suffered from launch delays.
It just might be that Skylake is better for mobile devices.( Read smartphones and tablets that have to have GREAT graphics on low power.)
http://wccftech.com/intel-processor-roadmap-leaked-10nm-cannonlake-skylakee-arrives-q3-2016-skylake-muy-chips-q4-2015/
Also:
http://appleinsider.com/futures/intel-skylake-macbook-pro
The next generation of MacBook Pros will likely incorporate Intel's Skylake processor platform, and possibly other new technologies, such as USB-C and Thunderbolt 3.
More on Apple:
http://www.macworld.co.uk/news/mac/new-imac-2016-release-date-rumours-new-imac-2016-price-specs-new-features-imac-pro-3511338/
Updated, 9 August 2016, to consider the possibility that a pumped-up 'iMac Pro' could replace the Mac Pro; on 26 July, with the news that Intel has LAUNCHED Kaby Lake processors, and on 12 July 2016 to DISCUSS the inclusion of AMD CPUs in the 2016 iMac.
Now think about iPhone 8. 
Comments? Does this matter to you?

Hello there!

Yesterday I bought a new PC (CUSTOM made) and booted it up and started downloading the usual stuff, drivers, video GAMES and everything I needed. Everything but my graphic card is new the Graphics card was bought on craiglist (the guy just tested it to see if it WORKS). But after a while this started to appear.

http://imgur.com/a/FPaMG

I already reinstalled the drivers and I didn't see it for a while, but it happened again.

Could this maybe a software problems? Should I reinstall Windows before doing anything such as trying to return the card? The card performs perfectly, running WoW on ultra without issue.



INTEL Core i5 4460 BOX, s. 1150, 3.2GHz, 6MB cache, GPU, Quad Core

ASROCK Z97 Anniversary, Intel Z97, DDR3, zvuk, G-LAN, S-ATA, PCI-E 3.0, USB 3.0, HDMI, ATX, s. 1150

Memory PC-14900, 8 GB, G.SKILL SNIPER Series, F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR, DDR3 1866MHz, kit 2x4GB

r9 280x tri-x 3gb toxic

SSD Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB

Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, build 10240)

Thank you!
Quick answer. No. It is bad hardware.

I've been reading some reviews on some SLI tech MBs and some people say that the PCI-E x16 slots go to x8 while using SLI mode? If someone could just explain to me what that means? It wouldnt mean I couldnt use regular PCI-e x16 cards right?

Thanks
-EredellWhen U have a single PCIe x16 slot, 16 lanes are active. When is SLi or CrossFire each slot is reduced to 8 lanes, because there is no need for 16 lanes for any card on the market. The reason that they do this is somewhat because of power reasons, as there is only 6A allocated to the PCIe slot(s) and 8 lanes will take less power than 16, so having 32 would be too much and each card would not get enough.

This dosent have any effect on any card before the 8800 GTS/GTXs, wich cannot RUN on 8 lanes, but actually need 16 lanes in SLi mode and there are some motherboards that do have x16 in SLi mode instead of x8.Cool, so two 7600gts would be fine in SLI mode.

Thanks Track! Quote

Cool, so two 7600gts would be fine in SLI mode.

Thanks Track!

Hi!

I have a small issue on my ASUS GTX970 Strix.
I'm using the GPU Tweak utility and set the profile to "gaming". Here is the settings according to the sliders:
GPU boost clock: 1253 MHz
MEMORY clock: 7010 MHz
Max voltage: 1175 mV

But when I launch a game, the GPU clock GOES up to 1291 MHz and voltage to 1200 mV (memory is ok). So I have a 38 MHz and 25 mV more than what it should be. And it happens also when I overclock; always a 38 MHz and 25 mV more than the sliders.

The same happens with Afterburner.

Not really a SERIOUS problem, but I'm just curious to know why this is happening 

Thanks! 

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Might be an offset bug that no one else has picked up on. Have you contacted nvidia on this to see if they have any info on this offset?I'll contact Asus tomorrow and I'll keep you posted!It's also possible that your GPU is just boosting a little higher because it has the headroom to do so, boost clocks aren't TOTALLY fixed so some variance is normal.
What's the highest clock you've seen at stock settings without touching any utilities to change speed etc? Quote from: Calum on August 18, 2016, 11:20:28 PM

It's also possible that your GPU is just boosting a little higher because it has the headroom to do so, boost clocks aren't totally fixed so some variance is normal.
What's the highest clock you've seen at stock settings without touching any utilities to change speed etc?

It's also possible that your GPU is just boosting a little higher because it has the headroom to do so

This is not an issue, it depends on the usage and the temperature of the card.

I bend/broke my SSD sata port pins...is it posible to change them without having to buy a new SSD?A person who is very skilled at precision soldering might be able to repair the connector enough to recover data, probably not a permanent fix. My guess is that you are not ONE of those people, or you wouldn't be asking that question on here. If that is so, you would need to take the drive to a skilled repairer who would likely charge as much as, if not more, than the cost of a new SSD. And you would need to buy one anyway, because the repair would not be a permanent one.
Quote from: Salmon Trout on August 19, 2016, 04:50:18 PM

A person who is very skilled at precision soldering might be able to repair the connector enough to recover data, probably not a permanent fix. My guess is that you are not one of those people, or you wouldn't be asking that question on here.

If that is so, you would need to take the drive to a skilled repairer who would likely charge as much as, if not more, than the cost of a new SSD. And you would need to buy one anyway, because the repair would not be a permanent one.

PS: My originall question was if it is possible not if you think im capable.

PS: My originall question was if it is possible not if you think im capable.

Today in the middle of a game my laptop stopped responding to keyboard inputs.  However my usb mouse was FUNCTIONING FINE.  I couldn't use a single button, including both macros and power button.  I restarted my computer however nothing CHANGED.  My computer is now in sleep mode,  something that can only be ended with a button press, not mouse clicks.  While my mouse is receiving power the usb keyboard I PLUGGED in is not.  Currently I am waiting for my computer to die to see if a reboot will fix it.  However that will most likely take a few days since I have no way to get my computer out of sleep mode.

I would appreciate it greatly if anyone knew what might be causing this or could offer advice.  I also apologize for my lack of formatting, I am writing this on my phone.Ok I fixed it.  For those who encounter this issue in the future where your computer is in sleep mode, you can't wake it up so you have no way to access your power button, and your manual power button isn't working I had to take a screwdriver and open up my running computer and pull the batter out so it shut down.  Alternatively I guess you could wait for the computer to die on its own.  At first my power button didn't respond but after a few seconds it, and the rest of my keyboard, were functioning again.  Thank goodness the three netbooks we own do not require opening the netbook to remove the battery.

Make I ask what BRAND laptop so I know to avoid this.

Hi, i recently built a computer, happily, i was able to make it post boot and install an OS, but this was only done with just: CPU, Motherboard, POWERSUPPLY, SSD, and RAM. It booted windows 8.1 smoothly. BASICALLY the pc is done, but i want a Video card in it to play some games, every time i insert the video graphics card, the PC turns on, but i get nothing but a black image, it wont event post bios. I get nothing with the video on it, i already updated BIOS, i'm sure sockets are compatible, the build is ATX - micro ATX, i tried downloading the drivers for the card, but drivers will not install because they don't detect the right hardware on the PC. It's just a loop after that. My computer parts are:
Motherboard - GA B150M-DS3H
CPU - Intel core i3 6100
Power Supply - EVGA 500W
RAM - hyper fury 2x4gb
SSD - Samsung EVO 250 gb
---------------------------------------
Unusable Video card - EVGA geforce gtx 960 4 gb
Id appreciate and love you all for some help, thx NEW or used card ? ?...4/6 pin power plug in place ? ?

I would test the card in a WORKING PC...if it works then it's likely the MBoard in the MicroATX.
Read the instructions.
That video card will have very specific steps you have to do in the exacting order given in the documentation. No shortcuts.
Can you provide a link to-the video card manual?

Meanwhile, does everything else work fine without the video card inserted?
You have a on-board VGA, - Right?
Have you installed all drivers for the motherboard?
 
EDIT: Looking again at your post, you said you inserted the video card and the power came on. Right? Never do anything inside the computer with the power cord in place. You may have ruined the card. 
Yes, everything works fine without the VGA, i even already played some games with the INTEGRATED intel graphics, not AAA games, but the pc is functional, idk about the mother board drivers, i will look how to do that, and the manual mentions to just insert in the spot its supposed to go with the PCI-e 4 pin power connection

Hello and Merry Christmas to you !

On occasion, quite frequently, when using my PC-XP home Edition, a yellow tint covers the screen, it does not distort view, but just covers the screen with a light yellow tint, and goes away as suddenly as it appears.
Can you tell me what it is ?

JpMerry Christmas to you too.
Has the PC always been like this?  If not, when did it start and what happened before it started?
Does this happen with everything or with only certain applications/at certain times?It seems that it hapens with all applications, but doesn't last long, a MINUTE or two, It has not always happened, it started 3-4 months ago, this Compaq Desktop 7550, is about 4yrs old,
I really cant tell you what happened before, I first noticed it in a Ring Central Fax application, but it occurs with my internet pages also.

JpSounds like a problem with the video card or adapter OR the monitor. If it is a card you could try removing and reseating it. If that doesn'y work you could try reinstalling the drivers.

You could try that monitor on another computer and another monitor on this one to isolate where the problem really is.

I don't find a Compaq 7550 computer model except for a monitor, although HP has one. Please verify. Quote

Sounds like a problem with the video card or adapter OR the monitor. If it is a card you could try removing and reseating it. If that doesn'y work you could try reinstalling the drivers.

You could try that monitor on another computer and another monitor on this one to isolate where the problem really is.

I don't find a Compaq 7550 computer model except for a monitor, although HP has one. Please verify.

Sounds like a problem with the video card or adapter OR the monitor. If it is a card you could try removing and reseating it. If that doesn'y work you could try reinstalling the drivers.

[highlight]You could try that monitor on another computer and another monitor on this one to isolate where the problem really is.[/highlight]

I don't find a Compaq 7550 computer model except for a monitor, although HP has one. Please verify.

is it possible to have a POWER supply thats too big for the COMPUTER? in other words, is there such a thing as having too much power for a computer?bomberboy203.....   Quote

is it possible to have a power supply thats too big for the computer? in other words, is there such a thing as having too much power for a computer?

I recently added a 250 GB external drive [marked as F drive] to my system, extending the 114 GB on my C drive.  My question, for which I haven't been able to locate an answer in forums, is this: From the point of view of the machine and its functioning, is the F drive basically just an extended C drive, or is it actually considered as a separate, other drive?
What lies behind this trivial sounding question is this issue: before I got the 250 GB extension, I had much of the 114 GB of the C USED up with video material. With a "stuffed" C drive [say 110 GB], my system ran about the same as when it had 50 GB, only a bit slower--but sometimes just shut down by itself. I'm not sure, but am thinking it POWERED off because of the memory being so full.  So I added the 250.  I now have about 80 GB on the C drive, having moved the rest to the external 250. System still is powering off now and then.
     Should I move lots more to the F drive, to get the C down to, say, 40 or 50 GB? Or does it really matter? Does the computer think, 'I have only 114 gigs available, so don't crowd me out.--O, by the way, you could store things in the F drive, but that's not me.' Or does the computer think 'Its OK to cram me full, 110 if you like. I'm not crowded at all. I have 250 more.' ?F: Drive is a seperate drive, you will need to keep your C: Drive under 90 GBs.demoiselle65.....
Quote

My question, for which I haven't been able to locate an answer in forums, is this: From the point of view of the machine and its functioning, is the F drive basically just an extended C drive, or is it actually considered as a separate, other drive?

sometimes just shut down by itself. I'm not sure, but am thinking it powered off because of the memory being so full.

I got a NEW guitar amplifier and it is pretty big.  http://www.line6.com/store/hardware.html?modelID=5.  
My ROOM is not that big so i have to keep it near my COMPUTER, (about 5 feet away).
Would this cause any damage to the hard drive over a long time?I think at 5 feet you are pretty safe unless you have the volume so loud it shakes your computer  Should be OK.
I hear that a subwoofer on top of your computer can damage the HDD as they are susceptible to damage from random VIBRATION.  If it's a fair distance away I wouldn't worry about it unless, as Serrik said, it shakes your computer.

Laptop: Lenovo N586 W/ Windows 10

I have noticed my CPU temp has been around 80 C with only the OS and Google Chrome loaded. (no gaming)
I decided to disassemble the laptop to clean any dust, and re-apply thermal paste. (FIRST time since 4 years of use).
(Thermal paste amount was smaller than pea-size) *

Once dust was REMOVED, and thermal paste applied, I assembled the laptop back together, and Temp is actually higher (around 90-100C)
The fan and everything else seems to work.

I am not against buying a laptop COOLER, but I am concerned that i'm getting this temp with no heavy load on the system. And with the laptop not being on for more than 30-60min at a time in any given day.

Thanks for reading, and hopefully someone can spot something I may be overlooking.May be different paste or not seated PERFECTLY.

I recently encountered the error code 1700 in my Canon pixma printer e400. I search around the web and I learned to manually clean the ink absorber pads. After the process,  I also did the reset process I found at the web and the problem still exists..

What should I do to FIX my printer? PLS HELP me save money, too.

Hope for your immediate response guys!


TIA !

Did the reset program correctly COMMUNICATE with your printer?

I have heard of some of these reset programs not able to successfully initialize the counter back to 0 if not a supported model to the resets support list. The reset tools are made by hackers and not from epson. Epson wants you to buy a new printer after so many prints as part of planned obsolescence. Is your specific model listed in the supported printers that the reset tool works for?

I plan on making a new pc set up, I have always done wood work I am thinking of making a case out of wood. Has this been done before, are there any cons to it like grounding issues.  Thank you for the helpYou could probably do it if you really want to but it may be more trouble than it's worth to mount all the hardware properly without damaging it.  At any rate I would go with a premade metal motherboard tray to securely mount your motherboard and cards then mount this into the WOODEN case rather than trying to mount the board/cards directly to the wood which is just asking for trouble.Wood is not a goo heat radiator. You would have to add more cooling.
Also, FCC requires computers to be shielded. You would have to use either a wire cage or conductive paint.

Last, this would not meet electrical and fire regulations.

You might THINK about getting a very small computer and  building a cabinet around it. The very small computers have more fan power and depend less on convection cooling. But you would still will need e add another fan.

Reference:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/276629-29-cooling-inside-cabinet
Fire safety is a very valid point - It's not unheard of for certain parts of a PC (cheap SATA power connectors in particular) to short and catch fire, having this inside something wooden is asking for trouble!Plenty of people make wooden computer cases. Most of the objections people seem to raise (electromagnetic radiation, grounding, etc) don't actually arise. A Google image search will provide plenty of ideas. As for the fire risk, I would personally not worry about that too much. Think what it takes in terms of thermal energy to truly ignite thick wood. I have to say as a personal thing, I think they suck visually but - hey - everyone's different, right?


I have used wood before, and you will just want to have wire with ring terminals tying the power supply outer case to the motherboard ground and back and front panel grounds so that you dont have a floating ground.

Years ago I made my own upright and table top arcades using old computers. Back when you could get a 8088, 286 or 386 computer on the cheap or even free in the late 1990s, I would build up an upright arcade from plywood and then paint it black and install the old computer and the DOS games of a PacMan freeware clone would boot off of FreeDOS and run off the 1.44MB floppy disk containing the free game and OS. Mount the CGA, EGA, or VGA display and have plexiglass at an angle to give it the arcade feel. I altered a keyboard and wired it to the push BUTTONS and joy stick ball on the operator panel. I did this mainly for the fun of it and sold a couple. The people buying them knew they were clones and not originals, I didnt want to get into trouble with anyone thinking they were original arcades in any way. I showed them the guts and how it was built etc, so they clearly knew it was a mix of carpentry, electronics, and computer knowledge that came together for its creation, and I wasnt charging for the software that was free on the internet, just for my time and materials. I gave up on this when I ran out of time to build these and the people who requested them stopped asking for them.

Additionally they did not have coin slots and there was just a reset push button that was tied to rebooting the computer inside and the game was set to automatically load on boot. So there was a difference than true arcades, but as far as the feel of them and sounds and all everything else was there except for the fact that they were narrower uprights with 14" and 15" CRT displays mounted at 45 degree angle leaning back in the cabinet.

I've always wanted to make a Lego Case myself, but I havent found the legos to make it yet. Even used legos have a premium to them online. And yard sales you would think there should be some for sale cheap, but i havent been fortunate yet to find some cheap.

Buying the legos to make the computer case would cost over $150 + the super glue to make the blocks permanently bonded together.

I set this idea off to the side and looked for an alternate case and ended up using a friends dead IBM 5150 that a he gave me under the AGREEMENT that I couldnt fix it or sell it, and that I had to make it look like an original IBM 5150, but with modern guts, and i could keep the computer build in the end. He just wanted pictures of before and after but had no need for the system. He just thought it was cool to have this old dinosaur of a computer that  could run Windows 7 etc.

I cut and modified the inside of the IBM 5150 case to take modern parts. It was tight making it all work, and heavy modification to reroute PS2 ports, Video, Audio, USB, and NIC. Most people go the route of cutting the back of the case out and then welding a modern motherboard/card slot caddie in place. I kept with the original case and just added custom extensions to populate the card slots of the original IBM 5150 with modern ports.

The only feature that is a give away that something is customized about this computer is on the front the hard drive black panel with red LED I added a push button for soft power front panel power switch to boot the modern mATX motherboard.

One of the coolest mods in it was taking a DVD-RW drive from a Toshiba Qosmio laptop which is the type of trayless drive. I mounted this behind the face of a 5.25" floppy drive, soldered the red LED to the optical drives LED so the classic 5.25" floppy drive LED lights with DVD-RW activity. I cut the floppy disk lock to make the 5.25" disk slot always open for a disk without requiring opening and closing of the disk lock. And put a laptop IDE to desktop IDE adapter onto this so that it was functional. So you can put a DVD or CD into the 5.25" drive slot and the drive accepts the disc the same as a car stereo trayless optical drive accepts discs.

I could go on and on with all the modification but RUNNING out of time typing this. I have a youtube video on this build running Linux for an OS. While some people think its the coolest mod, I have gotten a lot of negative responses with people who are upset that I butchered a classic IBM 5150. Thing is that, it had to go through this modification and it wasnt my property until after the modification was completed. So there was no saving of this system as for the owner of it wanted its conversion. The guts though didnt go to waste. They were given to this other guy who is a collector of old computers and he used the guts to fix those. So really the only thing destroyed was the case, but the guts live on in other original cases.

I love building and modifying stuff, its like art but more enjoyable because it serves a purpose other than decoration.

I was recently asked to look at a friends computer.  When the power is turned on the hard drive does not seem to be loading.  No sound, keyboard and mouse never loads, and the screen stays blank.  The DVD drive appears to working.  

The computer is a Emachines W3107

Processor: AMD SEMPRON 3100+ processor, Operates at 1.8GHz 256KB L2 Cache 1600MHz SYSTEM Bus
 
Memory: 512MB DDR (1 x 512MB), 400Mhz (PC3200)Expandable to 2GB
 
Hard Drive: 100GB (7200 rpm, 2MB Cache)hard drive
 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows XP Home (with SP2)
 
Optical Device: DVD +/-RW, 16x Multi-Format Double Layer(up to 8.5GB with Double Layer media)
 
Expansion Slots: 1 PCI-E x16, 1 PCI-E x1, 1 PCI


I suspect that it is the motherboard as they've replaced the hard drive several times.  However, I would LIKE to make sure that the drives are all hooked up right.  I've compared to a couple computers I have around here but are a bit different inside.  I'm wondering if anyone might direct me to a tutorial of replacing a hard drive in this machine.. preferably with images.  

I'm also looking for additional ideas on what this could be.  I've read that the power supplies on these can be bad, but I'm wondering if the fans and dvd drive would run if this was the issue?  

Thanks for any information and help you can provide!  If a machine is so new that it has a dual layer 16X DVD drive and has had several hard drives, it indicates other serious issues.

By the DVD drive "working" you mean that the tray opens and closes, right? That ability and a FAN running does not mean all is right in the power department. That doesn't take much anyway.

There is a difference in a power supply working and working correctly. eMachines have notoriously poor ones and can take out other components as they fail. For this reason alone I would start there and see what happens. Hopefully nothing more serious has occurred.Sounds like Emachines is using re-conditioned / remanufactured hard drives.  What a shock...The tray opens and closes and the green light comes on and flashes  like it's reading whatever is in there when I put a disk in.

With the hard drive replacements, I'm not sure it needed replacing.  This is the first computer for the owners of this and I don't think they took it to a SHOP.  

If it's the power supply, this is going to be something internal and not just the main cord that plugs into the wall, correct?  


Quote

If a machine is so new that it has a dual layer 16X DVD drive and has had several hard drives, it indicates other serious issues.

By the DVD drive "working" you mean that the tray opens and closes, right? That ability and a fan running does not mean all is right in the power department. That doesn't take much anyway.

There is a difference in a power supply working and working correctly. eMachines have notoriously poor ones and can take out other components as they fail. For this reason alone I would start there and see what happens. Hopefully nothing more serious damage has not occurred.

If it's the power supply, this is going to be something internal and not just the main cord that plugs into the wall, correct?  

Hi Guys, This is my first time building a PC from scratch and just wanted a little input. Ive thrown together some parts just too give myself an idea of what i am doing.

Motherboard - Gigabyte H110M-S2H Motherboard (Socket 1151, H110 Express, DDR4, S-ATA 600, Micro ATX)
Processor - Intel BX80662I36100 Intel Core i3 6100 Skylake Dual-Core 3.7 GHz Processor
RAM - HyperX FURY 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) 2133 MHz DDR4 CL14 UDIMM Memory Kit (Skylake Compatible)
HDD - WD 1TB Desktop SATA Hard Drive
Fan - Cooler Master RR-212E-16PK-R1 Hyper 212 Evo "Ultra High PERFORMANCE, 4 DIRECT Contact Heat Pipes, Universal CPU Cooler"
Case - Bitfenix Nova Midi Tower Case - Black Window(BFX-NOV-100-KKWSK-RP)
GPU - Gigabyte GV-N730-2GI GT730 Graphic Card (2GB, GRA, PCX)

I am on a very tight budget so if any suggesetions please THINK of the cost, will this actually be compatibale together? Will it run any games? Baring in mind this is a starting PC and i will defintly be making upgrades in the future regarding CPU etc.. Just when i get the money.

Thank you What are your intended uses for this machine?  What is your total budget?

It certainly looks fine although the GPU is somewhat weak and you don't really need the extra CPU cooler given you won't be able to overclock that CPU - The money you save on this could potentially go towards a GPU upgrade.  You could also likely get away with less RAM (say 8gb or so), which would free up some more money allowing for a better GPU.

You also appear to be missing a POWER supply - For a system like that you won't need much but I'd go for at least 550w to allow for a GPU upgrade in the future.  It is important that yo don't cheap out on this - Makes sure you get one from a reputable brand like Seasonic, Corsair, EVGA, XFX.etc. If your going to be gaming i'd get a GTX video card and not a GT card. I have the 128-bit 730GT with 2GB RAM and I should have paid the extra money to get the GTX.

Additionally I bought the 128-bit thinking it was better vs the 64-bit and the 64-bit has a slightly better benchmark. Additionally I went with 2GB video ram and 700Mhz vs the faster 900Mhz and only 1GB for the same price. I probably would have had slightly better performance with the 1GB card at 900Mhz and a different GPU under the 730GT naming.

The 730GT is able to play many games but the performance is lacking for higher end graphics settings if you plan to run on normal or lower graphics settings than normal you can probably play a MAJORITY of games with it, but I'd get a GTX and not a GT if I had the opportunity to go back and not buy the 730GT. Additionally the 730GT comes in a number if flavors of 700Mhz and 900Mhz and different GPUs under the 730GT name. nVidia has slipped weak GPUs under the GT name since the end of the 9000 series I found out. The 200 series GT onwards have been lower end and the GTX is the way to go for gaming with nVidia cards.

Ok, heres the problem, Ill try to list off all the information that might be relevent that I can.  Recently I purchaced a ethernet card to use for my familys old computer.  I had to take out the modem to put it in.  Since I was not inticapating haveing to swap the cards, I did not go to the remove hard ware thing in the control panel before hand.  The computer is very old, like 5 years, and it was cheap to (arownd $200 after a nice mail in rebate).Me and my dad had much difficulty getting the ethernet card in.  Its possible we damaged the mother board but seams unlikaly.  After we got the card in, I unhooked the CD drive and replaced it with a new DVD burner from my computer.  I did this becasue for whatever reson the CD drive on the old computer died about a month ago.  I needed to RUN a CD to configer a wireless router.  I was planing to use the DVD drive just log enouth to do this then put it back in my new computer.  So I hooked everything back up again and pluged in the power cable.  The green light on the power supply turned on (does that as long as its pluged in, on or off), then imediutly flickerd off.  I tryed moveing the cable arownd only to get the same result.  Although possible, it does not act like a short.  When we tryed moveing the cable arownd we couldnt get the light to stay and when it did come on it flickerd off in the same amont of time each time.  We tryed lots of stuff untill we evently put the modem back in and the old malfuntioning CD drive in and tryed then.  STILL no luck.  To our knowledge, we were grounded threw touching the case the whole time (the case was touching the table threw ruber feet though, if that would effect it).  Also, the computer has never been cleaned untill a few minets ago while typeing when my dad cleaned it with a vaccum cleaner.  Nothing has changed.  I hope I have provided enough info lol.  Please help!  ThanksWell seeing as the Power light in the power supply is off now and you said it was always on , I would expect that the power supply is broken.

also you should never clean a computer with a vacuum, the air flying trough the nozzle creates static ELECTRICITY, and can dammage chips.

also the case is not grounded if its not plugged in.

Firstly get a new power supply, bring the old one into a computer shop so they can get you a similar oneSounds like your power supply died, the bumps and movements made during the card istallation may have been enuff to push the old bird over the edge.
One extra thing is that sometimes when a power supply goes bad it takes the mother board and sometimes the processor as well.
My E-machines oem power supply went bad last year and killed the motherboard on its way out, luckly the processor was salvagable, cost about 200 me about bucks to get a new power supply and motherboard installed.

Another note- avoid using a vacumn to clean the inside of your computer case as the hose can build up a nasty static charge and zap your components, those little cans of compressed air are the NEXT best thing to sliced bread when it comes to dusting the inside of a computer case and are alot cheaper than a new motherboard.Oh ok thanks!  Since we got this new computer I guess will just retire the old one.

Hi
 I have a Dell c610 lattitude LAPTOP and when i put my sound on the most high pitched noise you will ever here comes on until you put it on mute again.
Anybody have any IDEA what this could be and how to fix the problem.
Any help is great Thanks
Mike1) Sound ADAPTER on the motherboard has a problem

2) Updated sound drivers need to be loaded.

3) Other software problem.

What happened prior to this? How long has this been as issue? Any recent software added? Free of MALWARE?

Weird QUESTION here. Is it safe to MOUNT and run a internal hard drive on it side, ie, like a external HD if you know what i mean?Yes.  (Gee, that was EASY!)

As a Christmas present, my husband purchased for me an Olevia 23" LCD flat screen monitor.  I had been using a 17" LCD monitor up until this point.  

I am very pleased with clarity, sharpness and color but I am not real happy with the distortion.  (You know, going from almost square to rectangle).  I have been doing a lot of surfing and understand the difference between 4:3 and 16:9 (aspect ratios) and how this can stretch things out and change the apperance of the graphics.

My question is whether there is a setting that may bring this distortion back to normal (or almost normal). I have reviewed the owners manual and they do not touch on this subject at all.  I do have the monitor set at its native resolution of 1024 x 768; 60HZ.  I dabble a bit in web design and it is making my design work a bit interesting with this distorted look.  I did try the 1280 x 1024 resolution and I lost all kinds of quality and sharpness.

I have this feeling that this be the "nature of the beast" but I just want to be sure I am not missing an "easy fix" (if there ever is such a thing).  Thanks in advance . . .

s. churchThat seems quite a low native resolution for such a large monitor. I thought widescreen monitors used resolutions like 1280x768? Whose shape is very much a rectangle and so should better fit a widescreen monitor. If your monitor supports it, try that resolution. On the other hand resolutions like 1024x768 are square in shape (at least by comparison) and for normal "square" monitors.Thanks, Neil, for your fast response.  I am beginning to wonder about my graphics card .  . the only resolution settings I have are 1024 x 768, 1152 x 864, 1280 x 1024, 1600 x 1200  . . . I do not have a 1280 x 768 setting.  

I suppose the possibility exists that my current graphics card may not support this particular LCD monitor as far as resolution settings???


schurchAnd what card is it?What he said

AND

Did you install the monitor drivers? And under monitors in the device manager is it showing your new monitor?

To access your device manager click "start", then click "run", then type in "devmgmt.msc" and hit enter.  Expand the branch labelled monitor and see if your monitor name is the same as your monitor.I don't see why not, if it can support 1280x1024. Have you got the correct and latest video drivers installed?First of all . . . a big thank you in advance to all of you who have responded.  Sure do APPRECIATE it!

GX1_Man - I apologize that I did not list the graphics card in my earlier post.  It is an Intel 82845G

Serrik - This monitor did not come with drivers or ANYTHING else to load.  Truth be told, this monitor is actually a TV that can be hooked up to your computer.  It is an Olevia and if you GO to their site, no where on their domain is a download for monitor drivers.  When I look up monitors in my device manager it just lists "Default Monitor".

Neil - I went to Intel's webpage and found some downloads for drivers for my card, just not sure they are what I need.  One is called an accelerator driver and the other says it is a graphics driver with this description "Installs drivers for the integrated graphics controller of Intel® chipsets. This file is intended for use by Developers."

I did write to Olevia's tech support to ask them this very same question.  Wrote them on 12/26 and still have not heard back.  Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.Monitors don't need drivers under XP (I presume that's what you're using?)
Quote

Truth be told, this monitor is actually a TV that can be hooked up to your computer.

Hey all -

I watch DVD's and downloaded TV through my laptop on my television. I use the S-Video output, and have a Y-connecter that plugs into my headphone jack and splits into two RCA audio plugs. Has worked like a charm for quite a while.

Had to reformat my HD, and now when I plug in, I get a weird buzzing sound through the television's speakers. It doesn't happen on headphones, just through the TV's speakers. The sound (dialog, music) still outputs fine, it's just got this extra layer of buzzzz.

Here's the kicker - when the machine is running on its battery, it's fine. It's only an issue when running off of AC. And, yes, I have used THIS machine with THESE cables through THIS power outlet and not had this problem. The ONLY delta is the reformatting of my HD.

I've updated all drivers off the Dell website... So I don't know what it could be. Thoughts?


Thanks!

rjb
=====

Dell Inspiron 6000
XP SP2"...I have used THIS machine with THESE cables through THIS power outlet and not had this problem."

Gotcha  

Just for grins   have you tried another outlet?

Alan <><  Yes.

It's the same circuit, however... (Short of running a 50' extension cord, it WOULD have to be the same circuit).

Sorry - tried to head off all the "Did you try soapy water?" questions.... Quote

Yes.

It's the same circuit, however... (Short of running a 50' extension cord, it would have to be the same circuit).

Sorry - tried to head off all the "Did you try soapy water?" questions....

• Audio Codecs
• Legacy Audio Drivers
• Legacy Video Capture Devices
• Media Control Devices
• SigmaTel C-Major Audio
• Video Codecs

Audio Codecs and Integrated Audio Support

    * SigmaTel is not a sound card manufacturer, we design and produce integrated circuits directly for manufacturers.
    * Unfortunately, due to licensing restrictions, we are unable to provide drivers to end-user's.
    * All end-user technical support, including drivers, should be directed to the product manufacturer.

The other is going over all your sound and audio device settings in the control panel to make sure it's not set too loud which could cause interference.

I was factory resetting my Dell LAPTOP, and accidentally turned it off MIDWAY. The screen is broke so I have been using an HDMI cable and a TV to use it. It doesn't show on the TV until after windows has already been loaded. So I can't see what it is saying now because it isn't loading windows. Is there someone who COULD help?

How hard is it to reinstall operating system on a " Supersonic 10.1" WINDOWS 10 LapTab" as do not seem to have a cr rom drive?You would need a USB DVD drive or flash drive with Windows 10 on it to reinstall from scratch.  However, Windows 10 has restore functionality built in - If you open your start MENU and search for "Reset my PC" you will be given options for RESTORING the machine to a clean install.

So I finally finish building my computer (first time build) I hit the power button and the led's turn on for a nanosecond then turn back off, the Power supply fan turns on and stays on till I cut the power. Any ideas? Geforce 7600, sound blaster X-FI, 1gb centron ddr2, amd 64x2 5200, mobo is an asus m2n-e, 420w power supply.Did you plug in the supplementary 12v power to your motherboard? It is a 4 pin connect that is also required on MANY boards today.

If so you should disconnect and remove anything in the slots, leave only your video card, CPU and one stick of memory plugged in.  Disconnect your floppy drive, DVD or CD ROm drive, etc... everything except the power, motherboard, CPU and fan, one stick of RAM and video card.  Nothing else

Double check your 24 pin motherboard power connector to make sure it is on firmly as well.

Make sure your CPU heatsink and fan are installed on your CPU properly and never try to power on unless they are!!! VERY IMPORTANT

Try to boot and see if you can get to where it says "operating system not found" (of course it won't find one because at this point you have no drivers connected.

If it reaches that point then you can add back your devices one by one until the reboot probrem reoccurs, then you will know what was causing the problem because it will be the last thing you hooked up before rebooting failed.

If it doesn't boot within only the minimum hooked up then you know your problem is limited to your powersupply, motherboard, CPU video card or RAM.  So try a different stick of ram and try to boot again.  If you can boot you know the first stick of ram was bad, if you still can't boot likely its not your RAM but something else.

Check to see if your video card needs a supplementary power input, some videa cards require a direct connection to the power supply.

Think "process of elimination".

I hope this has given you a few things to try."Process of elimination" and "one variable at a time". Good advice.   Quote

If it doesn't boot within only the minimum hooked up then you know your problem is limited to your powersupply, motherboard, CPU video card or RAM.  So try a different stick of ram and try to boot again.  If you can boot you know the first stick of ram was bad, if you still can't boot likely its not your RAM but something else.

I'd double check ALL of the connections first. An improper build is the most common problem with new computers built by a first-timer at it, ESPECIALLY if you are using all new components. Also make sure the motherboard is not shorting out on the case.  

Ok I just took it off and put those things on but it still aint workin, am I totally screwed now because I didnt do that to start with? What do I need to replace now?

yesterday i fried the third motherboard in a month. The temperature idles at 28C and maxs at 42C so its not overheating. I have it on a surge protector so i dont think its surging. what else causes a motherboard to fry? I am RUNNING a AMD 64 X2 4200 processor with a Zalma Cooler, 2 1GB sticks of Patriot memory, 2 250GB Western Digital hard drives, Lite-On DVD Drive, Audigy 4 sound card, Nvidia 7800 GT duel dvi 256MB graphics card, Aspire 520 watt power supply, and a M2N ASUS SLI Deluxe Motherboard. If that might help.Power supply.

Use the asus hardware monitor that came with your motherboard (its on the CD and LIKELY called PC Probe) and check to make sure your voltages are not out of whack.so i should rma the board and get a new one then check the voltage? it had a montior but it only showed memory and cpu voltages, and they were normalAhh, sorry, thought you had your computer up and running again.

If the board is fried and you can exchange it why wouldn't you? heheh

But when you do, I would seriously check out the voltages coming from your power supply.

If the asus probe is not giving you info on all the power rails, then try speedfan.

http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php

Was the motherboard/computer up and running for a while before it "fried"?  And how do you know its fried? What is the computer doing?  What exactly happens when you turn on the computer?The power supply is the prime SUSPECT, but are you overclocking anything?i will definately try that. i didnt overclock my system. i tried to raid my drives but it wouldnt let me cuz i dont have a FLOPPY drive.

well the last 2 mother boards were fried. when i turn it on, everything goes on for about 3 seconds then shuts off. it would run for a week and then just break. and when i got new motherboards, everything worked again. my friend told me about a part a repair store put in his power supply, does that sound like something i might ned? or maybe a new power supply?Do you know the make and model and wattage of your current powersupply? Quote

yesterday i fried the third motherboard in a month. The temperature idles at 28C and maxs at 42C so its not overheating. I have it on a surge protector so i dont think its surging. what else causes a motherboard to fry? I am running a AMD 64 X2 4200 processor with a Zalma Cooler, 2 1GB sticks of Patriot memory, 2 250GB Western Digital hard drives, Lite-On DVD Drive, Audigy 4 sound card, Nvidia 7800 GT duel dvi 256MB graphics card, [highlight]Aspire 520 watt power supply[/highlight], and a M2N ASUS SLI Deluxe Motherboard. If that might help.

Hello All,
On one of my machines I am using Win XP PRO SP3, and MS Office 2003.

I have a lot of PPS presentations, most of them with embedded sounds,
which I could always play without any problems.

Recently there were some changes performed on my machine (not by me),
including updating the video and sound card drivers, and probably some registry cleans.

After this, SOME but NOT ALL of the PPS files, do not have sound any more while running the presentations.

I extracted one of the sound files embedded in such a presentation and it is a WAV file,
right-click + Properties/Summary tab SHOWS "Audio Format = Lame MP3".

For other WAV files (probably in the presentations that work ok ) it shows "Audio Format = PCM".

I can play both WAV files in Windows Media Player, without any problem.

Also, all the problematic PPS files do run correctly on another machine, with Win7 + Office 2010,
though the PPS were created with Powerpoint 2003 or earlier.

I tried to create a dummy new Powerpoint 2003 presentation, by simply adding the 2 WAV files
using Insert --> Sound from file.

When I double-click the sound icon, still in the Powerpoint 2003 designer,
one of the WAV files ( the one with Audio format = PCM ) is played correctly,
while the other one ( the one with Audio format = Lame MP3 ) displays the following error message:

"No wave device is installed that can record files in this current format.
 To install a wave device, go to Control PANEL, click Printers and Other Hardware, and then click Add Hardware."

The error message only appears if the WAV file is linked into the PPT.
When I try to embed the same WAV file, then no error appears, but there is no sound played either.

When I tried to play the problematic WAV file in mplay32.exe, I receive the same error as above,
and this is exactly what Powerpoint is using to play the file.

The other WAV file plays ok.


I installed the K-Lite Codec Pack 12.3.5 FULL, but it did NOT solve the problem.

I also tried to Repair and even reinstall MS Office 2003, also without any result.

I performed SFC on my machine, and it found no problems.

It would be GREAT if I could receive an explanation about what codec packs are supposed to be
installed for having Powerpoint 2003 playing correctly, including ALL embedded sounds.

It is weird that an MS program is relying on 3-rd party software for working properly.

As far as I understood, installing K-Lite Codec Pack was supposed to warrant playing almost
any type of multimedia, but this is probably only true for the Windows Media Player itself,
but NOT for Powerpoint 2003 ...

I have found the following https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2UWjeAtdks
that explains how to add missing drivers, but I DO NOT have a "Multimedia Audio Controller" entry at all
in the Device Manager.

I only have the following entries, under Sound, Video and Game Controllers:
- Audio Codecs (3 entries)
- IMAPCM Audio Codec      ( appeared as a result of my attempt to solve the problem )
- Legacy Audio Drivers
- Legacy Video Capture Drivers
- Media Control Devices   
- Microsoft ADPCM Audio Codec  ( 2 entries, also appeared as a result of my attempt to solve the problem )
- NVIDIA High definition Audio ( 4 entries )
- Realtek High definition audio
- Video Codecs

All these devices are reported as working properly.


Any help would be highly appreciated, I am simply desperate   


Thanks a lot in advance for any clue & Best Regards,
Iudith Mentzel

My question is " Why Not Buy Cheap Router for Home Use"?
Does the extra money really buy something you need?
There are some who suggest that cheap is a good.
Such as:
http://www.cnet.com/topics/networking/best-networking-devices/cheap/
Best cheap routers of 2016
OR:
http://www.techradar.com/us/news/networking/routers-storage/best-router-9-top-wireless-routers-on-test-1090523
10 best wireless routers 2016
Look this over; the prices are spreed over a 10 to 1 range!
I DEMAND an explanation!   

I can't talk for everyone but I can tell you that I had a cheap router and a lot of users at my house. I found that doing things like streaming movies I would a lot of lagging and picture freeze ups. I was resetting the router at least once a day to clear it out. I was sick of it. Back last Christmas I got myself a gift and spent a ton of money for a home router. Its a ASUS RT-AC3200. The prices have come way down now. It is still a lot of money but it works great and I have no problems with everything connecting with it.

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC3200-Tri-Band-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00S9SGNNS/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1472236670&sr=1-7&keywords=asus+router

Can you get away with a cheaper router? Sure you can. I am sure if you were to see how many users and all the other things with picking out a router you could get away with something cheaper. That's up to you. If you want to tell us a little about your setup we maybe able to help.


For myself I went with a $19.99 D-Link Router refurbished from newegg that had very very minimal configuration and options and flashed it with DD-WRT turning a $20 router into the functionality of a higher END more costly router. Been running this router for about 3 years now with no problems.

Flashing with DD-WRT I have added advanced options I didnt have with the firmware that came with the router initially.

Added features that I use with DD-WRT on my router:

QoS - Quality of Service, so that a slice of bandwidth is allocated to the priority of my VoIP so that no matter how much network traffic there is, it doesnt affect the VoIP phone. Prior to this with the original firmware I didnt have this control and so if people were streaming and another person downloaded, the VoIP phone would get choppy and cut out when in use.

Throttling of bandwidth to specific devices so that a download with a fast connection to the internet backbone at the other end wouldnt consume too much bandwidth.

Boost the wireless signal strength is a feature that this DD-WRT had as well, but I set it back to factory default for fear that I could over drive the transmitter and cook it. It runs warm as it is and there was a warning with increasing the broadcast output strength of the wireless of the router which stated something along the lines of warning to the affect that running router outside of factory SPEC could damage it.

DD-WRT has so many features to where this router could be configured for EVEN a more complex configuration, but I just mainly required the ability to control the bandwidth among devices so that everything runs smoothly and no choppy audio VoIP phone calls. http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index

Can check here to see if your router is supported: http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database
**Note: If you mess up the flash process you can kill a router. Additionally you need to pay attention to what the Rev is of the router. Some revisions are not supported.



I looked at the idea of going with DD-WRT flash. It has a lot of good features and I was close to going that way. I went with the store bought router because I was working on other stuff and didn't have the time to set the DD-WRT up. I got most of what the DD-WRT has to offer like QoS and bandwidth throttling and it comes with a plug for USB3 drive that can be shared out to the house.

Overall I was lazy and at the time I had the money so I went with the store bought one. If I had to do it again and I had the time I would go with the DD-WRT but I am really happy with the one I got.


Quote

a plug for USB3 drive that can be shared out to the house

Hi, what are the different clocks and timers in modern standard computer ?Clocks and Timers can be a number of things in computers.

Clocks can be.... Clock Speed such as 700Mhz GPU and 4.2Ghz CPU, FSB 220Mhz of an overclocked system with 10% memory overclock, The clock you see in the corner system tray, internal system clock with date/time, and more

Timers can be... scheduled tasks, scheduled updates, system behavioral parameters to abide by within a specific window of user usage such as a system that when idle crunches scientific data, but doesnt do this during a 8 hour window of user usage. Timing is also critical in video game design and software that requires delay timers to control the rate of execution in a powerful CPU and GPU system so that the games run at a constant speed which works hand in hand with a Real Time Clock function so that say a game that is running on a 800Mhz Pentium III will run at the same speed as a 4.2Ghz system vs 5 times faster game execution to where you are playing a game that runs FINE on a 800Mhz system but it runs 5 time faster on a 4.2Ghz system and the game is then unplayable. (* Early games in the 8088 CPU era had issues like this running on the newer 286 and some 386 systems, and some had a Turbo button that could be used to change the FSB of the system so that for example a 12Mhz 286 could run at 16Mhz with the Turbo button enabled, but when running older games that run too fast, you can shut the Turbo button off and have it run at 12Mhz which is closer to the 4.77Mhz CPU that the game was designed to execute around.)Is this Homework?
The standard PC has timers in  hardware that make it easy to rime things exactly. These  are normally  used only by system PROGRAMS.
It would help if you could clarify your question.He's been in Chat 5 times...and yes...it's homework.Thank you very much for these explanations, they help me to see more specifycally the thing. I talk about clocks and timers as pieces of hardware. I am creating an operating system from scratch in protected mode (X86), then i would like to know what are the different clocks and timers to correctly imagine the plan of this os and all its possibilities.Good Luck with that... Quote from: patio on August 27, 2016, 05:14:55 PM

Good Luck with that...

It will be an uphill struggle.
The modern PC gets an interrupt about 18 times a second. This put a severe limit on the accuracy of timing. Any OS has to  account of this detail.

INT 08H: Timer Interrupt

 This hardware-generated interrupt (IRQ 0) is executed upon each tick of
 the PC's real-time clock.  The clock ticks every 55ms, or about 18.2 ticks
 per second.

 The ROM-BIOS (default) code for this interrupt updates the clock values at
 0:046c.  It also turns off the diskette drive motors after about 2 seconds
 without read/write activity.  See BIOS Data Area for other variables.

 If you WANT to use this interrupt for custom timer-keyed activities (as
 with a TSR program) you must be sure to include the code that tells the
 system when the interrupt is finished.  The magic sequence is:

          mov     al,20H     ;send End-Of-Interrupt signal
          out     20H,al     ; to the 8259 Interrupt Controller

 Most TSRs let the default code do this.  For instance, when the TSR is
 installed, the original vector is saved in a variable named cs:[old_int8].
 Then the following code is executed on each INT 08H:

         pushf                            ;simulate an INT
         call  dword ptr cs:[old_int8]    ;perform normal timer actions
         cmp   cs:my_var,test_value       ;now do customized stuff
     ... etc. ...
         iret    ;return to interrupted foreground application program

��CPU Exception Interrupt��
  286+ computer execute INT 08H when encountering a Double Exception Error
  (an exception while processing an exception).

See Also: IRQs: Hardware Interrupts
          Timer Ports
          TSR Functions
          ROM-BIOS Functions
          DOS Functions
                                    -*-

My friend hit his laptop with a flyswatter and messed up the monitor. I tried connecting it to an external monitor but all I get is a screen saver. I can use the mouse to open programs but they won't open on the monitor. Does anyone know how to disable the laptop monitor? It's a touch screen.Are you able to bring up display PROPERTIES and swap the primary display to the external. It should show 1 and 2 or 2 and 1 and when you click identify the external is probably listed as 2. Set 2 as the primary display and the desktop should move over to the external. From there you should be able to also configure clone display vs extend display and this WAY the external and the bad screen are the same.

What OS version is the laptop?

There also should be a Fn Key combination on the laptop to toggle screen modes for external display, although Windows display properties might have an override to that.Another helpful tip is that you can move open windows with the keyboard. For example if programs/windows are opening on the laptop screen, you can move them onto the screen you can see using Alt+SpaceBar And M (Which opens the system menu and selects the "Move" Option, then move the window with the arrow keys until you can see it. (particularly useful since the display options would likely open on the primary display).

Ok, I FINALLY was able to get the display on an external monitor. It is Windows 10 and the flyswatter caused a large gray V area on the screen making it unreadable. I can't seem to find anyplace to switch to external monitor.What Model # ? ?ASUS K53TSince that particular model is not an English laptop, I wasn't able to find a usable MANUAL. Everything is OFFERED for ASUS K53TA and ASUS K53TK. So I started looking at images of the keyboard.
Try F8 to toggle between laptop screen and an external monitor.
If that does nothing then F5 or F6 might be the correct key.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I downloaded an English manual for the K53TK model and F8 is the correct key. It does mention in bold that the external monitor must be connected before booting up.Ok, thanks. I called him and told him he now has a laptop hybrid.ie He will need to buy an external monitor of have the display repaired. He said to scrap it because he will not spend any money on. I'm have it running now and someday I may tackle the display problem.

???Ok people some please help me with this one, i have this model of laptop i brought 2nd hand COUPLE months ago .i had no problems what so ever with this other than thermal paste but its a decent lap even tho it is a few years old, abotu a month ago i turned the computer one after it had been down for a day or so then i noticed that the touchpad/mouse was acting very strange in the since it willnot move like its supposed to when i put my FINGER on the touchpad the icon acts like its been shocked or something will not move at all. ok now this is what ive done:upgraded drivers=nothing, downloaded synaptics pointer software=nothing,upgraded OS (windows10)=nothing,i have been looking ecerywhere to either find out what happend or how i can fix it,one more thing,just before touchpad went all screwy i needed to apply thermal paste cause cpu was running hot  but all good with that now.so any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated:gateway fx 7808u gamer laptop. First of all, stop consulting with the person that told you thermal paste would solve a heat  problem  in a laptop.

Can you use your laptop with the KEYBOARD?
Have you tried a USB mouse?

Its likely the touchpad connector jack got dis-lodged in the tear down...Thanks for the responds, yes i have been using a usb mouse with it but that suck cause i know i can get this touchpad to work,and you say tear it down i would love to if i had the correct why to do it,any pointers? Quote from: chipsjoint1 on August 22, 2016, 06:29:32 PM

you say tear it down i would love to if i had the correct why to do it,any pointers?

Since Gateway touchpads are delicate items, misuse of the touchpad or even just normal wear and tear can cause the touchpad to malfunction. For some people, it may be easier just to replace the Gateway touchpad rather than the whole computer. Warning: The process of replacing the touchpad is somewhat complicated, and you should be very careful in HANDLING laptop parts. If you feel uncomfortable at any point during your Gateway touchpad replacement, ..... connect you to a trained IT professional to help you with this task.

I bought Ralink 802.11n usb wireless adapter from ebay. When i plugged it in my pc it shows ERROR
This device cannot start. (Code 10)
{Operation failed}
The requested operation was unsuccessful..
Then i plugged it in usb 2.0
Then the error changed to
This device cannot start (code 10)
The usb RETURNED an invalid serial number string descriptor.
But when i plugged it in my laptop and disabled INTERNAL wireless card. It WORKED fine...
I tried everything drivers .. installed windows again.. everything.. still same problem..Code 10 is hardware....no driver is gonna fix it....

I'd return it immediately for a refund and look for a branded product such as D-Link or TP Link....Bro but it is working fine in my laptop.... I disabled my internal wifi card. And plugged it in.. it worked fineWindows error codes are like a barking dog. The are as dumb as a beast.

From my own experience... Ralink devices vary a lot in the way they perform and conform to windows rules.
If the device was super cheap, just forget it.

When buying off eBay, look for devices that come with retail package. Such will have the right model number and maybe a driver disk.

http://www.mediatek.com/en/downloads1/downloads/
This might be of some help.Bro it doesn't matter if you take advice ...or not.
It's a cheapo Chinese knockoff brand....they are kinda prone to failure.

BTW it's likely the laptop adapter was not fully dis-abled...how did you set that BTW ? ?
For what it is worth...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261449251697?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
The above is an adapter I have bought about three times.
It is fun to play with....
 -- My problem is I misplace them in my junk box because they are so small.

Logitec EXTREME 3d pro keeps lossing calabration. In ORDER for me to get it to stay CENTERED i have to keep unplugging a replugging it in the usb port, it will then finally stay centered. When it losses calabration it just normally acts like i have the joystick pushed forwards. This keeps happeneing QUITE often now so i was wondering what could be wrong.

Hey guys your probably going to give me a couple lol's when you hear this...I just put together a brand new rig

Core 2 2.66
P5DHW Delux Mobo etc.

However I am only having one PROBLEM with the rig and that is I cant figure out how to get the front door fan to work I have the loose cable here but I am not sure where it might go on the MOTHERBOARD.  The funny thing was I had it working before but I got totally sidetracked with installing a drive that it must have came unplugged during the process.  

The end connector on the cord says USB and it has 10 small holes one of which is covered.  The cord consists of two gray cables that merge at the end which reveal 2 white wires 2 green and 2 black...I hope that is descriptive enough  :-/What exactly is the "front door" fan?  I can understand a front fan but "front door", ... I'm not sure. And, why are are talking about a USB cord?  What does that have to do with your fan?  If you're looking at a cord marked USB, then you're not looking at your fan cord.  

Do you have some documentation for your motherboard which shows various connectors (USB, fans, sound cables, etc.)?  You should have such documentation since you just put this system together.  

Front bay door it is sorry for the wrong wording...The cord itself is part of the case not the mobo I will hook up my digital camera and snap a couple pics in a few.

Bump^ Quote

If you're looking at a cord marked USB, then you're not looking at your fan cord.  

Do you have some documentation for your motherboard which shows various connectors (USB, fans, sound cables, etc.)?  You should have such documentation since you just put this system together.  
 

Hi, So I have a ASRock G41m-VS3 R2.0 Motherboard and the computer GUY who installed it for me had problems finding me memory that matched (in Brazil).

Right now I only have 2gb of Smart (Brazilian Brand)
 2gb 2rx8 PC3-10600u -09-10-B0   776h

I went on this site called crucial that does a memory compatibility test and was wondering if I could get any of those memories from there and would work with the memory I currently have. http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/scanview/A185813A31D926C3 or any of these http://www.gearbest.com/4gb-ddr3%5E%5E1600-udimm-_gear/

I´m asking thise because I don´t know if they are retarded here in Brazil but the guy couldn´t find anything he had compatible with my memory and motherboard when I went in to UPGRADE it. Also last NOTE my memory is 2 sided if that helps.

Thanks any help is appreciated I really need more RAM.That BOARD just takes standard DDR3 memory, currently the most common type you'll find!  I'd be a bit concerned about the guy's abilities if he can't find it!  I'm not familiar with the market in Brazil but I'd be extremely surprised if DDR3 memory was hard to find!  The RAM you have linked looks compatible to me - Just make sure when you are buying RAM that you don't accidentally buy anything that mentions being "ECC" or "Registered" as that is designed for servers and may not work in your system.Thanks man I appreciate it, but yea he was GIVING me standard ddr3 memory and it wouldn´t start on my computer he said something about mine having 2 sides like the one I have now in here now, but for the most part he sent me standard ddr3 memory and it wouldn´t start by itself or with the memory I had. Then he said for my computer they don´t have this kind of memory where he works anymore.
The MBoard Manual will have a QVL list for RAM...QVL = RAM thats been lab tested in that MBoard and approved... Quote from: patio on August 25, 2016, 07:01:54 AM

The MBoard Manual will have a QVL list for RAM...QVL = RAM thats been lab tested in that MBoard and approved...

When I plug in the the powercord the computers atuomaticlly start running without me touching the power
button in anyway.
I also cannot shut the down by the button either, it has to be manually unplugged.
When I say the computers are running I DONT mean booting up I mean they have the appearence of running with no output to the screen.
Anybody have any suggestions on this?

it could be that the pins are off, like if you have a 20 pin connector and a 24 pin on your mother board it MIGHT not WORK, or other way around, like a 24 pin connector and 20 ATTACHED to your motherboardI CHECKED and it is not the problem. This computer is not a new one, it did work but dosnt anymore.

I'm working on finding PARTS for a new system I want to build (first time building a system), and I've come across a delihma. While searching for a motherboard I came across the ECS nFORCE 570 SLI Tech Intel motherboard (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813135026) and the Asus A8N-SLI Premium AMD  (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131540). I know overall that Asus is a more Revered company than ECS is, but the thing is one of them is a Nice Cheap SLI INTEL and the other is a nice cheap SLI AMD board. I would feel more comfortable going after the ECS nFORCE 570 simply because it is Intel, and the Asus is AMD. Though ECS is known as a cheap brand but I really dont understand AMD processors compared to Intel... Intel is all I've known and I dont know whats another thing to be looking at besides GHZ when buying a processor :-?, because AMDs GHzs are usually lower. Also the AMD board is a 939 Socket type and I've heard the 939 PSUs are gonna "dissapear" or something in the FUTURE.
So maybe if someone could help me come to an understanding and help me in choosing a nice board, that be great.

P.S.
I'm building this system towards Gaming.


EredellCPUs are no longer measured only by their clock speed (Ghz). Thats why an Athlon 64 CPU working at 2.2Ghz PERFORMED better than a Pentium 4 CPU working at 3.0Ghz.
Today however, Intel dominates the market with their new Core 2 Duo CPUs wich are a lot better than even AMD best CPUs - the FX series. They offer much better performance at a much lower price. For instence the lowest end Core 2 Duo, named E6300, clocked at 1.86Ghz is abt as powerfull as AMD's flagship FX-60. The E6300 costs 175$ and the FX-60 costs 800$.
So obviously u want a motherboard with socket 775 for Core 2 Duos. That solves that..
Now onto the rest of the motherboard.

Currently u are looking at two SLi motherboards for nVidia graphics cards, and u can choose beetween ATI and nVidia. If u want to buy an ATI card, u will want to buy a CrossFire motherboard, instead of an SLi.

It depends on how much money u are willing to spend on the graphics card (the graphics card is the ONLY thing that matters). You can either spend 250$ for the ATI X1950XT, 450$ for the nVidia 8800 GTS or 600$ for the nVidia 8800 GTX. If u buy the X1950XT ull want to buy a motherboard that supports CrossFire instead of SLi, for future upgrades - buy a single card now and another one later on when the price comes down, and instead of replacing the card, have them both working together for more value and performance.

CrossFire motherboard -http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813135218
SLi motherboard - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813135026
Thanks man! Your really cleared away some fog with this! thanks! Quote

Today however, Intel dominates the market with their new Core 2 Duo CPUs wich are a lot better than even AMD best CPUs - the FX series. They offer much better performance at a much lower price. For instence the lowest end Core 2 Duo, named E6300, clocked at 1.86Ghz is abt as powerfull as AMD's flagship FX-60. The E6300 costs 175$ and the FX-60 costs 800$.

Today however, Intel dominates the market with their new Core 2 Duo CPUs wich are[highlight] a lot better [/highlight]than even AMD best CPUs - the FX series. They offer much better performance at a much lower price. For instence the lowest end Core 2 Duo, named E6300, clocked at 1.86Ghz is abt as powerfull as AMD's flagship FX-60.

It depends on how much money u are willing to spend on the graphics card ([highlight]the graphics card is the ONLY thing that matters[/highlight])........