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Hi! Didn't post for a long time, still didn't forget why, but I try to forgive. So, I have a GTX 650 that I recently replaced with a 660, but when I needed to put it in my brother's PC, it refused to display anything. I tried it on my computer (I have a Corsair VS650), thinking that his PSU was passed (only has 350W, but they are 100% real, the PSU was free, good enough price LOL ), but still refused to work. Before I replaced it, it was 100% functional, all it did before plugging it into my brother's PC was to sit. What could have happened and what to do?Minimum...and i do mean minimum on that card is 400W...

So yer brother's PC ain't gonna run it...Surprised minimum is 400 watts for that card. Most cards like the GTX's are 500 watts minimum, but double checking online it does specify 400 watts minimum. 

Quote

System Requirements
    Minimum of a 400 Watt power supply.

But my question was why doesn't the Graphics Card work on my PC, which has a Corsair VS650 PSU?

Hi! Didn't post for a long time, still didn't forget why, but I try to forgive. So, I have a GTX 650 that I recently replaced with a 660, but when I needed to put it in my brother's PC, it refused to display anything. I tried it on my computer (I have a Corsair VS650), thinking that his PSU was passed (only has 350W, but they are 100% real, the PSU was free, good enough price LOL ), but still refused to work. Before I replaced it, it was 100% functional, all it did before plugging it into my brother's PC was to sit. What could have happened and what to do?

I may try mounting it again, because my MoBo POSTs pretty slow (let's not get into that)/

No wonder it Posts slowly...it's starin at mis-matched RAM for 45 seconds...

Not sure if there is something wrong with my graphics.
 
But when I was playing Splinter Cell-Chaos theory demo and SWAT 4 demo, I kept getting texture flickers and after awhile the game would crash to a black screen and the only option is to reboot the comp.
 
I have a Radeon 9800 XT, with the latest driver.
 
I just had my HD replaced a few days ago and I've never had any problems with texture flickering.
 
I tried a couple of other games and I got the same problem, but less pronounced. Everything is the same except I have the new driver, SP2 instead of SP1 and HD, so I'm wondering what else could be the problem apart from maybe the driver.It would be worth reinstalling the drivers, but this is probably caused by overheating. Does your graphics card have some kind of temperature measuring facility?I installed the other driver and it's the same  

So I think it's probably from overheating. Not sure if it's got a temperature measuring facility, is there any way to check?

What's my best option to fix this problem? I'm just baffled why the card is overheating now, when it was working perfectly before.All jokeing aside...open your case and see if you've got any dust in there, spray it out (with the proper canned air, of course.) and leave one side of the case off and see if that helps any.If you're using ATI, you should have a red ATI ICON on the right-hand task bar? Have a peeky in there. My temperature gauge is in the "ATI Overdrive" section.Ok, I'll have to install the ATI control panel thingy.

And I'll open the case and see if that'll improve things. What's this proper canned air you referred to magician?I've installed the Control CENTER for the card and under Graphics Processor Status, the temperature reading is 99C and 97C with the case open (that's pretty much boiling point  ). The ambient temperature in the room is not even 20C, or around 70F.

This is just with the internet browser open and nothing else. How reliable do you think the readings are?

Also, I have not overclocked my card and ATI overdrive is not enabled. The fan on the card is also working.

Overdrive level for Graphics Processor Status is currently at 398 MHz and for Graphics Memory Status, 365 MHz. The default clock speed is 412 MHz, my speed is actually 14 MHz lower.

What can I do now? I don't understand why the temp is so high on my card.
I ran Splinter Cell - Chaos Theory again and at the start of the game, the temp goes to 107C and after about 5 mins or so, the flickering starts, first small and then gets larger and the temp goes up to 116C.

I think the limit for my card is 127C.Well, you're about to ruin it then.

We have no details about the machine except for the card and that would help, don't you think?

While the case is opened are all of the fans spinning in there? What kind of hard drive? What make and wattage power supply? Was anything else changed or touched from when it worked correctly to now? (I am assuming it used to work correctly with that game.)

What make and size hard drive?Yep, all the fans are spinning.

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-8IG1000-G
Hard Drive: WD1600JS-60MHB5 Edit: 160 gig
Power: Eagle DR-B350ATX (350 W)

Only the HDD was changed, I don't think there were any other hardware changes.

And yes, before the HDD was replaced, the card was working perfectly. I'm really stumped  :-/Out of curiosity how old is that power supply? You seem to be on the upper limits of what it can handle, if not exceeding. Eagle is not a top of the line manufacturer either.

Do you have another known working power supply you could borrow, or whatever, to test with?

What if you BLOW a fan directly in there with the side cover off?My comp was built about 2 years ago, so the power supply will have to be at least 2 years old.I turned on the comp today and checked if the fan on the card was spinning. It wasn't, so I gave it a nudge and it started spinning again   That brought the temp down to about 70C.

I turned the comp off and then started it to see if the fan will start on its own. It did, but now the temp is about 88C, with just the internet browser open.

Very strange. Does anyone know what is a normal temp for a Radeon 9800 XT?

Is 350W power enough, what is the normal power supply one should have these days? Could it be that the fan on the card is not getting enough power and is not spinning as fast as it should be?The temp is now approaching 100C again, the fan is spinning but the speed is not constant, it slows and then speeds up again, every second.To my own experience the higher level ATI cards run very hot with their insufficient factory cooling setups, I would suggest investing in an AFTERMARKET VGA cooler.
Heres where I get my stuff-  http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?Sort=4&Nav=|c:498|&Recs=30

Heres a cooler made to fit your 9800xt card- http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1576849&CatId=0

I just GOT a new 200 GB SATA Maxtor HD for Christmas (don't laugh). I already have a 120 GB ATA thats nearly full and jumpered as single (no jumpers). After plugging in the drive ACCORDING to its instructions and starting up Windows, I activated the drive and formatted it, assigned a label, the whole deal... but when I try to transfer some of my larger video files, it just freezes the entire computer, including the mouse. Before that happens, I can SEE it and view its properties; I even used the XP error-checking utility on it, which came up normal. Understand, I can transfer a small amount of data to it (the actual amount varies each time).

I though it might be overheating, so I separated it from the rest of the computer, but the problem persists.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    -ShaunIm no professional but here are my thoughts

1rst- Did you format to NTFS (reccomended)?
Fat32(the other type) formats can't handle any files over 4 gigs.

2nd- Did you replace the jumper on the original hardrive in the master configuration and the second in the slave configuration, and the same with the ribbon cable?

3nd- Does bios recognize the drive properly, operating system(boot) should be drive 0 and the slave drive should be 1

Hopefully you just formatted it to FAT32 thats an easily FIXED problem.


The new drive was formatted to NTFS, but it was also SATA. Do you need the master/slave jumper settings between an SATA and ATA hard drive?Oh yea, and the bios recognizes the drive at its full capacity, but as SATA MASTER0, and the other is Secondary Master0.

hi all,

Been a lurker for a little while, and find this site very helpful for help with my PC problems  

Can you help?

I was playing Eve online yesterday, and due to a GAME error my PC rebooted ( theres been a few people with this problem )

When the PC restarted i've now got a 19" monitor that thinks its a 17"?!?!?

I've got a thick black line down the right side of the screen, i can move the whole screen over, but then of course i just get a thinner line down either side.

I've tried altering it on the monitor settings but there is no 'stretch image' option on it, only move it up/down & left/right

I've also updated my GRAPHICS card drivers....but no change there either...

Now....when i set the screen resolution to 1024 x 768 it fills the screen fully ?! but when i go back to 1280 x 1024 the black BAR appears again!?!

I'm running a core2duo system
7600 gs card
19" LCD monitor

Built the system myself, its been running fine for 6 months


Any advide would be greatly appreciated, as i can't figure out what to do  :-?



Happy Christmas all

Edit : also just physically taken card out and reseated it...just to be sure....still no good though.









Try another monitor on that machine and that monitor on another.

Try another video card if it appears the problem is NOT with the monitor (and it probably is not).

Check you temps on the machine when running.

Post back your results.hi there GX1, thanks for the reply.


I've tried another monitor and its the same problem, haven't got the chance as yet to try another card, but I did find the manual for my original monitor and adjusted the 'clock' on it, this stretched the screen quite a lot, now the border is only 1/4" each side.

Temperature wise, the gpu is running at 43C mobo 42C and cpu 32

thanks again for the help
might buy a new card tomorrow....It seems to point that way.  hi again,

Just popped a new card in  

It seems it was the card all along

 thx for the help GX1

Good for you. Glad everything is fixed and thanks for posting back.

okay iv got a sony dvd rw dw-d22a DRIVE and i just BOUGHT aload of dvd-rw and inside the dvd-r's it says, that because the disks are 16x, i will need to upgrade my dvd drives firmware, iv googled but i carnt find anything about it.

where will i be able to get the fireware from?, and no my drives not listed on the sony site:(Just one example of how you can ruin a drive with a firmware update if done incorrectly:

http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=149990

Some SONY drives are actually made by LiteOn.

That drive is listed as a 16x dual layer drive. I don't see why you would need to update anything. Have you actually tried burning a disc in it?

Not all discs are compatable with all drives unfortunately, so there is a bit of trial and error there as well. Hopefully these will work just fine.
SONY DVD RW DW-D22A - No Firmware Updates Available.

See below site and Search the download database. just enter
 D22A for your results.

http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_result.php?kaj=1&iscesI have the same Sony DVD writer & also I just bought Maxell 16X DVD-RW's. My DVD writer keeps asking me to insert a recordable disk ie. it does not want to accept these 16x DVD-R discs when I try to burn to it. I called Future Shop to ask what the PROBLEM could be & I was told that my Sony writer needs replacing. I told him the writer works fine with 8X's DVD_R discs. He told me it's just a matter of time before it won't work with the 8X's DVDs either. I also tried Memorex 16X DVD-RW's with the same RESULT. The next problem I noticed was that my Sony DVD writer  was also having trouble PLAYING back recorded DVD's ie. sound was garbled & video would momentarily freeze up. Ended up replacing the Sony DVD writer.

My conclusion is that 16X DVD's should work with the Sony DW-D22A without any firmware upgrade. I just had the unfortunate coincidence that I was trying new 16X's DVDs at the same time my burner started to break down.

Will a MID tower CASE fit a full size ATX motherboard, or do i have to also get a full tower case?Will a mid tower case fit a full size ATX motherboard?=Maybe. :-?

http://www.xoxide.com/buy-computer-cases.htmlBy "full size", I presume you do not mean "Extended ATX".  So, YES, a full ATX motherboard will fit either a mid-tower or full tower case.  The full tower has more BAYS up front for adding OPTICAL drives, hard drives, etc.  The link posted by street1 explains this well.

Hello. I am new here. I know absolutely nothing about computers, so I wasn't even sure where I should post this thread. Please help. I am desperate. Here I will explain what the issue is AND what I tried  to do to fix it. But I failed.

Recently I've had issues with my computer randomly opening a lot of windows on it's own. Yesterday I was away and my computer was on and when I came back I saw about 50 new tabs opened and all almost my computer icons seemed to have disappeared. I assumed it was just some computer mistake because no way everything go deleted on its own. So I restarted it.

When I restarted it, I got the message from the title- "User Profile Service failed the LOGON. User profile cannot be found." I don't wanna take it to a "professional" to get it fixed because I don't trust any people here in my city- whenever I did that, they deleted ALL my files. And I have some EXTREMELY important files in this computer that I wish I had saved on USB, but I haven't, so I definitely can't lose them. I just never thought anything will go wrong with this computer, as it worked pretty much perfectly.

So anyway, I DECIDED to try to fix it on my own, despite that I admittedly know nothing about computers, I read that this issue is fairly easy to fix. So I found tutorials and forums where people say you should press f8 and it will take you to "safe boot" mode. I did this and the first 2 times nothing happened- and third time something did happen, but NOT what they said. I got 2 options with numbers and letters and third option saying "enter setup". Obviously, this was Chinese to me, but I knew it's not supposed to be that way. I saw some people had the similar issue and someone suggested that I press ESC, so I did.

The next thing that happened was that it opened "ASUS UEFI BIOS Utility - Advanced mode" and it had 7 parts- Main, Al Tweaker, Advanced, Monitor, Boot, Tool.

All I knew was that, from what I read, I was supposed to activate "safe boot" in order to access computer properly, but when I clicked under "Boot" I didn't see safe or secure mode anywhere. I don't know what to do.

Please help, as I'm seriously desperate. I will gladly tell you any further info and detail about anything else that I can see on my computer, under any of these options. I just really need this fixed and I'd really appreciate it if anyone was patient enough to tell me what to do step by step.

Thank you so much in advance. You can try to fix with Safe Mode - repeatedly tap F8 as you boot up.
It may take two or three tries to start the safe mode.
Continue with Safe mode and user the Administrator login.
Are you able to get into the computer with Safe mode as the Administrator? **

** In this context administrator is the name of a hidden account used in safe mode. Normally you would not have to use this account. It can be used to REPAIR or create user accounts.



Hello. Thank you for your reply. Like I said, I did that. But when I pressed f8 repeatedly, at first nothing happened, but the all it did was open this thing with 3 options- first two being letters and numbers (obviously that stands for something, I have no idea what)  and third "Enter Setup". I read somewhere that, if that happens, you should press ESC, so I did that.

The next thing that opened was  "ASUS UEFI BIOS Utility - Advanced mode" and it had 7 parts- Main, Al Tweaker, Advanced, Monitor, Boot, Tool.The fix is not in the BIOS which is where that took you...

What OS is this ? ?I know it's not where it took me, that's why I am frustrated. :/

It's Windows 7. Repeated tapping of F8 should get you to safe mode then....start as soon as you power up.Like I said earlier, I pressed f8 repeatedly, I did this and the first 2 times nothing happened- and third time something did happen, but NOT what they said. I got 2 options with numbers and letters and third option saying "enter setup". Obviously, this was Chinese to me, but I knew it's not supposed to be that way. I saw some people had the similar issue and someone suggested that I press ESC, so I did.

The next thing that happened was that it opened "ASUS UEFI BIOS Utility.

It shouldn't have taken me there, that;'s why I am frustrated. :/Sorry for the bump. Here's more info...

This is what happens when I repeatedly press f8: http://i.imgur.com/4vq1spdh.jpg
And this is what happens when i press ESC after that: http://i.imgur.com/kVrAagih.jpg
 
Sorry, I know the pictures are blurry, my camera is not the best. P2 is the DVD drive...P4 is your HDD...try selecting P4 then again tapping F8 repeatedly...I haven't tried that... Can I save my data that way? It's EXTREMELY important for me not to lose any files. If your data is important then i would pull the HDD...put it in an EXTERNAL enclosure anr hook it up to a working Deskto PC and get your data...Sorry, I just saw this. Thank you. I don't know how to do that, so I managed to enter safe mode, but when I type in "regedit" in search like I was told to, it SAYS it can't be found. So frustrating. This is what I got: http://i.imgur.com/n1wTd5zr.jpg And I can't seem to fix it from there. You shouldn't be using regedit to attempt a fix unless you have already done job #1 which is retrieving your important data...
Get an external HDD enclosure as suggested above and copy move your data before you lose everything by mucking around...Thank you... I am so confused, because another person told me that fixing it using regedit WON'T make me lose my data. I don't know what to do. I don't know how to do what you suggested and whenever I take it to a professional to fix it, they end up losing my data anyway. I am sorry if I sound dumb (I know NOTHING about computers), I am just so frustrated. But thank you so much. Get an external enclosure...about 35 - 40 Bucks for a good one...then hook up to a working PC and get all your data...
Forget taking it anywhere if you are worried about data loss.
Have someone you know assist with showing you how to put it in the enclosure.

I have a bit of a problem. Basically, i have an HP L1908w monitor and i connect a VGA to that one one end, on the other end there is an HDMI cable with connects to my thunderbolt adapter thing. But when i connect it, it doesn't SHOW the screen. The monitor works but it only says Check video cable but nothing is wrong with it. Any help?

You best source of information is the Apple support.
Did you see  this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfUycPvFpjg
A comment:So some people are having trouble.

I guess this qualifies as a PROBLEM, but I just got a new Samsung LCD Monitor, model 931BF.  I've installed the drivers with the disc it came with, but somehow, I cannot adjust the brightness of the monitor.  When I press Menu to select it, it says the feature is "Not Available", so I can't select it.  
The other colour ones also do not work.  

I hope someone can help me out.  What about the video card options or the bottons on the front PANEL?.That's what I tried, but alas, it doesn't work.  Reading the manual doesn't help either.This is just a workaround but..
 Contrast and Gamma adjustments should get you the desired brightness you want, mainly Gamma.

Im a NOOB pretty much and dont know much about LCD displays but MAYBE they work diferently then CRT monitors in that brightness adjustment is not an option on certain models.

Try boosting the Gamma setting and see if that gets the desired result.

Hi people. I am having a little problem with a new Laptop DVDRW drive my parents bought me this Christmas.

I have an Alienware Area 51-m 7700 series laptop, and my parents bought me a Lite-On DVDRW model number SLW-831S.

The problem is thus, when I insert the drive into my laptop, the computer refuses to make it through the POST. Either that or the POST doesn't even start. There is HDD activity for a while. But nothing else.

When I take the drive out again, the laptop boots as normal...

Does ANYBODY have an idea as to what could be causing this?

Many thanks in advace.

Dark LenneDark_Lenne...

The problem you may be experiencing could be caused because of improper jumper settings on your new optical drive.

Remember...if you have two drives connected to the same IDE channel...only one can be a master and one a slave.

More info about your new optical drive can be foud here:

http://us.liteonit.com/us/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=70&Itemid=88


Best of luck!I thought that may be the case, however, there doesnt appear to jumpers on the drive itself. Maybe I am not looking for the right thing? Have you dealt with these situations before? Becuase I am at a complete loss...Yes, I have...

It seems your BIOS isn't detecting the drive.

Possible solutions can be found here:

http://us.liteonit.com/us/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=72

Did you have to install any drivers before inserting the new drive...or did you just remove the OLD and insert the new?  Your new drive may have come with installation software.  Using the old drive, install the software and then shut down your notebook and insert the new drive.

Again...there are several instances where the new drive will not be detected and the link above can help.  You may need to vist your optical drive's download page for new firmware downloads.

Please post back and let me know if any of the above solutions have worked.

Best of luck!Thanks for your help, I have put in a request for help from Lite-on. I'll let you know how it goes.

Just to let you know, after many problems with the old drive, I removed and disposed of it. My laptop has been without an optical drive now for around three months.

The new drive didn't come with any software and I wouldn't be able to install it, even if it had.

Thanks again.You're more than welcome...

One last thing...

Without the optical drive installed, boot into BIOS and check your boot settings.  Disable booting from the optical drive and then continue to boot as normal.  Once you've booted into Windows, insert the optical drive to see if it is recognized by Windows.

Please let us know how everything WORKS out by posting your results here.


Merry Christmas!Oh I tried that. Result? BSOD.

All that appears in my BIOS is the option to have IDE-0 and IDE-2. They must be the two available optical drvie slots, as my two hard drives are SATA.

I can't see anything in the BIOS that could be causing the problem. I'll be SPEAKING to Alienware as soon as they open on the 28th, untill then, ,I'll just have to do without.

I can see me sending the laptop to them to be fixed. However, I think the laptop had a one year warranty with it. That may be over now. Would they be required to fix it regardless? As it must be a manufacturers fault. (Sould that be the cause?)If it is out of warranty, they are not obligated to fix it...unless you contacted them previously with the same issue.

Have you also tried going into your Control/System/Device Manager to check the properties of the IDE controller to see if it is working properly by checking its "Properties".

You also stated there are two slots for optical drives...unless I'm reading you wrong.  Is this correct?  If so, check to see if both the Primary and Secondary IDE are working properly.

I just checked the specs on your machine again and there are two optical bays...have you tried each bay separately?

The only other thing I can think of (at this moment) is that the drive itself is not compatible with the DMA 33 interface of the Alienware notebook.

Anyone care to chime in here?Chime!

I have seen laptops that the BIOS was specific to a certain drive
by model, name, and Model number.This may have been a chip on
the drive that the BIOS recognizes.

If you get a different Drive............Don't work.

That is why some USB external drives work easier than a
internal swappable. :-?

What brand name and model number was your original CD/DVD Drive?

May I say excuse me ,but Aleinware online support Vacuums .That
keeps me from saying [email protected]Ks.. Savior

I've tried each bay seperatly. The device manager states that the device is working correctly... But if the problem was during the post, what Windows thinks of the drive wouldnt matter would it?

street1

I can only tell you that the brand of the drive was QSI. I found many people with similar complaints to mine while I was having trouble with it. And it would be all well and good to have an external DVD drive, but my laptop is in DIRE need of a fresh install, and USB doesnt work in DOS does it?I Hope your parents feel better if this works.Christmas can be a
bummer for us parents but, you great kids are worth it.

After more research it seems your computer can't recognize it because
of the factory jumperless setting. :-?

Hope this helps. :-?

Changes the master/slave setting for jumperless LiteOn laptop drives.

Below Website:
Scroll to the bottom of page and give it a look.


http://codeguys.rpc1.org/utilities.html

My pet bird was sitting in the corner in his little chair,patting his foot
and giving me the low down about Christmas.I wanted to choke old
PeckerWood but,he is just a nut so......I just smacked him. LOL
Nice job, street1...

Let's hope he can use it to resolve the issue he is currently having...looking forward to the outcome of this one...

Hi,

Ok a friend of mine rang me TODAY regarding her Equium A60, her ex boyfriend has put a password on the BIOS and I cannot work out how to remove it, she has asked him what it is, he claims he was drunk and don't know what it is. She has been quoted £150 by pc world which is extortion.

I have had it in bits but can't seem to find the battery, the WAYS of clearing BIOS listed on toshiba's site do not work, the thing is it is not exactly looked after so wouldn't be worth spending £150 on it, but her college work is on it, which is her only concern.

Anyone KNOWS of a way, besides shorting the chip LOL. I will be honest I am not used to laptops, obviously I said yes presuming they would have a removable battery like a normal pc. I seem to be hitting brick walls with it.Removing the CMOS  battery won't fix it.

The below site is possible.

http://www.pwcrack.com/bios.shtml

If the files or work is worth $10.00 try the below adaptor to
recover the files to a desktop.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16812203012Laptops are meant to be more secure than desktops and some models can only be fixed by replacing the motherboard! You cannot easily overcome the BIOS password, and on some models not at all.

If she is the owner, she should first contact Toshiba. Next she should ditch the drunk.  She should ditch the drunk but wont, i have removed the battery from the motherboard, so hopefully when i re assemble it tomoz all will be fine, i do not know why on this model they only made the bios accessible from within windows, and as for more secure, he MANAGED to do this from a guest account, pretty lame really.So is this really a BIOS password or a Windows password?A bios password, for some reason toshiba made this laptop where the bios can only be accessed from within windows, i removed the battery from the motherboard overnight switched it on this morning it asked for the time and date, and said press f1 to enter set up or f2 to load defaults, i pressed f1 and it came up with the *censored* password screen again, i feel this may be a new mother board, i will remove the battery once again and try loading default, but i some how doubt it is going to make any difference.

hello,
two weeks ago I bought on ebay a COMPUTER and it looks like the graphic  card's connector is a dms-60/lfh-60(all 60 pins are present....learn about this after research on wikipedia). I'm thinking of buying a DELL DMS-59 pin VGA Y-Splitter Cable G9438 on ebay too. Can anyone here tell me if this will work on my video card?
The computer is  IBM IntelliStation M Pro 6219-32U and the video card is 64MB Nvidia Quadro 4 . My monitor use vga connector. Any help would be appreciated.If you are looking for a DMS to Dual Vga then the 59-pin "Y" cable should work.

PNY Technologies recommends the following for your graphics card so...

91004085  CABLE, DMS TO DUAL VGA
59 PIN  View Info     In-Stock       $27.99  

Only problem with getting it from ebay are return POLICIES should it not work.  Don't you have a Radio Shack or other computer store nearby so you can return it if it doesn't work?

Please help!....several problems. i have desktop which i could not install an operating system on. kept getting error couldnt load ntdlr loader something like that after os install. i tried removing battery and memory and reinserting but since i put it back it goes to memory count and screen turns green with a red sign in the back im assuming its the compaq logo. it will not do nothing ELSE. I cant install and os still. tried different monitors but its not the monitor. i tried a different hard drive. please please help. i have a laptop which im using now, but desperately need this one to work. sad part is im a computer tech and can't figure this thing out.Welcome to the CH forums.

As a computer tech how would you respond to a potential customer who gave the same details you have given us :-?  Would you not want to know what make of pc it is and what model and what Operating System and what hardware is installed etc.. :-?

"Cannot FIND Ntldr" is a well documented problem with XP so will assume that's the O.S.

Need to know if you are using a genuine full XP cd or an upgrade version.  Need to know if you are trying to do a clean install or a repair and what file system is being used and if the hard drive is partitioned and if you can afford to lose all data on the existing hard drive.  Having reset bios to default values have you modified the boot sequence to boot from the cd first :-?

Have you run hdd manufacturers diagnostics :-?

Please read the very first post on this forum from CH Admin..

ThanksYou're absolutely right...so here are the specifics. I was doing a clean install on the computer. The file system was ntfs. I don't care about losing information AT ALL. I REMOVED the battery to reset bios. Didn't work. The computer is a compaq presario 7360. Yes it's an older model lol. The install never completed so technically speaking there isn't a os installed yet. Yes the boot sequence is set to boot from cd, this is how I began in the first place. Yes, it's a genuwine xp disk. I have also tried, 2000 pro, server, and advanced server just to see. Nothing will install. I can not boot from a FLOPPY. Wanted to run fdisk, but can not even do that. Again please any help will do and don't worry about me losing info..i could care less long as i get this sucker up and running. lol . tx in advanced.Google memtest86.Yep, sounds like a hardware related problem.  Can you remove/replace ramsticks one at a time rebooting after replacing each ramstick :-?

You say you can not boot from a floppy, does this mean you cannot use the floppy drive or that a bootdisk will not perform :-?

Tx, I'm almost positive it's a hardware issue. I have tried removing each ram stick and rebooting to see but still the same problem. I've never experienced anything like this before. The green screen is not even actually completely green. It's more like dot pitch green cuz I can see the red compaq sign behiind it, and like the white memory count at the top of the screen, but that's it. Why it turns green after booting I don't know. Also my floppy drive just isn't working, but that's not a problem.It might be. I would suggest INSTALLING a floppy that is known to work and see if you can boot a WIN98 boot disk. Or a disk fromt he appropriate hard drive maker's site. It would be diagnostic to know if it is even trying to read a boot device.

Can you navigate in the BIOS (F10 at boot)?

I believe one that I recently worked on of that same model had a K62-350 processor which dates it pretty well. It may just be shot.

At least you admitted that you are ASKING for homework help, most people think we don't realize.
Can I ask though, if you are an English speaker then why are all the handouts in Chinese?
Doesn't matter.
Most of those answers can be found with a simple Google search very quickly.
Try Googling it first, and if you can't find anything post back and we'll POINT you in the right direction.
However, this isn't a homework help site so we won't tell you the answers straight off.That's because I'm living in China. I read the course details and it said the handouts will be chinese and english but it turned out all chinese. I paid the fees for the course. I thought If I post here I can get some straight and simple answers for me to easily understand. I feel BAD for people to do homework for me although I just want to understand rather than completing my homework. I guess I'll just delete this post. Thank you for reading this post and please delete thread post. Sorry for the trouble.

To GX1_Man:I cannot do that.. I'm not studying anymore and this course is the only thing to keep myself busy. I've explained my situation to my instructor, he explained some question of my homework and I do understand most of instructor's EXPLANATION. But the only trouble is they explained things like internal frequency in chinese. Most of answer are written in handouts but If I spend a little time to understand what "it" means and how "it" works, I think I don't have problem to pass the exam.I think I would request a refund, or insist on translation help, or on them fulfilling the class requirements as presented to you. It would be a long semester otherwise.

Good luck.

SO, i got this computer from a freind of mine, he got a VIRUS and took the whole thing apart.  I put it back together to the best of my ability, and everything works.  but everytime i press the power button, it beeps when the hdd led pops on it runs for about a minute after that and then shuts down. the mother board has a digital read-out thing on it and it says 7F as the computer shuts down.  If anyone knows what the 7F means, or where i can read up on the mother board its self it would be greatly appreciated.  If you need more specs on the comp dont hesitate to ask.From the eVGA forum. Google got there in .88 seconds:

Error code 7F
Solution: The worst error code you can get, SINCE its almost always a problem with one of the pieces of hardware you've plugged into the motherboard. Most common causes are:

1. GPU is not securely placed into the PCI-E slot. Reseat the GPU and ensure it has external power if required.
2. Memory isn't securely placed, try reseating it. Alternatively the memory might not play ball - FOLLOW the solution above (computer won't boot).
3. PSU insufficient, ensure the PSU you have is branded and has sufficient output on each rail for the components you have installed. Its easy to overload one rail a little too much on some PSUs.
4. Connection LOOSE somewhere - reseat everything to make sure its all secure.Why did he feel the need to physically take his computer apart because of a virus? Quote

Why did he feel the need to physically take his computer apart because of a virus?

There is frequent talk that the "most powerful processor" is the Intel E6400 for $220 delivered. What about this article for the Pentium D 805 which sells currently for $93 delivered, ALSO from Newegg?

I would never need something that powerful, but it is a very interesting article. If you're into overclocking, it may be right up your ALLEY.  Try as I might, I cannot find a LINK..The Pentium D 805 in comparison to the Pentium D series, isnt exactly the same as the E6400 in comparison to the Core 2 Duo series, because the Pentium D was built on the 90nm process, while the high-end Pentium Ds where built on the 65nm. The E6400 and all the Core 2 Duos are built on the 65nm process.Sorry. Here's the link:

http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/10/dual_41_ghz_cores/I heard about that a while ago, I thought it was really amazing how much extra power they MANAGED to get out of it, especially when you consider how relatively inexpensive it was.
If I had a desktop, I'd be right into it.
Nice find for those who haven't seen it before, and it makes interesting reading even for those who have.Hmmmmm.... sounds like a little project to ADD to my emachines and drop the celeron D.
Thanks- G-Man....

I have recently upgraded to a 64-bit system.  Using some hardware from my old system.  The only items that aren't new are my HDD, floppy DRIVE and modem.  The drives are fine, but the modem is 3-4 years old and has no 64-bit drivers.  It is a Creative Broadxant  56K Pro DATA Fax Voice Modem DI3631.  WIN XP reports it as a "Standard PCI communications controller".  The manufacturers disc I have is no good.  When I tried to load the drivers, I got this MESSAGE, "The files on this disc are not compatible with this type of machine".  I checked the Creative website and they haven't issued any 64-bit drivers for this model.  My question is, can anyone recommend a modem that will work on a 64-bit system with WIN XP Pro X64 edition?  Any advice will be a big help.  Thanks

Hi! Just anewbie here in the forum!

I really need help with my PC Build. I've been trying to build this for Gaming, Online Gaming and BB Internet.
Please feel free to give suggestions/comments advice etc.

Processor: Pentium D820 2.8 Ghz
RAM:      Geil 1 Gb DDR2 Dual
MBoard:    Asustek P5VD2-MX
VCard:      Gigabyte 256 MB GF 7300GT
HD:      Seagate 80 Gb SATA
Opt Drive: LiteOn Combo 52x

I'm not really sure if some of the hardware will be really compatible. Help!
Also if anybody could help me with a counterpart build using AMD platform (I'm not familiar with AMD set up!

Thanks and Happy Holidays.

I'm planning to buy a PC this X'mas Season that is why.




You need Track  
He'll probably be along shortly.
In the meantime, I'll do what I can.
I'd recommend a BETTER graphics card, the 7300GT is a budget card not a gaming card.
What's your budget?
Remember your PSU too, you haven't INCLUDED that or a case or cooling.
The Pentium D is old technology, I'd recommend a Core 2 Duo.
Possibly you may benefit from a larger HDD too, 80Gb is pretty small these days.
What sort of games are you planning to play?
Oh, and you FORGOT to include an OS.
Sorry this is a bit haphazard but I just added things as I thought of them.Thank You Calum, you take own the prestigious role of GX1_Man well.

Dear, loneworlf9
A computer is an investment, u pay more money now, inorder to reap the benefits later on.

CPU - E6300 (175$)
Its the most powerfull CPU on earth, can u not pay another 75$ for the most powerfull CPU on earth?

RAM - 1GB DDR2-667 (85$)
You will need more ram later on, but this will do for now.

Motherboard - ECS NFORCE 570 SLIT-A (75$)
This is a great motherboard. It has 2 PCI-E slots so u can have 2 nVidia graphics cards working together, and it costs 10$ than the motherboard u were planning on buying with only 1 PCI-E slot.
Its not an Asus, and i do trust Asus, but its perfect for u!

Graphics Card - 7950GT/7900GS (250$/175$)
Remmember! The most important thing by FAR in ur PC is ur graphics card. Spend as much u can on it. IF u have to get the bad CPU and get one of these graphics cards.

HDD - 250GB 16M cache S.ATA (75$)
If u get the 80GB ull be paying almost twice for each GB. This is the BEST value for HDDs by far.

Optical Drive - DVD-RW (25$)
No problem here, DVD drives are so CHEAP u can buy 4 for the price of an HDD.
DVD drives have both CD and DVD capabilities, so its perfect. I would even get 2 of these for copying disks.

PSU - Thermaltake Toughpower 550w/600w (125$/175$)
If u buy the toughpower 550w, u will only be able to power a single graphics card, and u will need the ability to power 2 at some point. If u buy the 650w u will be set for 2 cards. So ur choices are like this - buy the 550w right now for 125$ and then buy an extra PSU just for the extra graphics card for another 50$, or just buy the 600w for 175$ combined right now. And yes, the difference beetween the 2 is huge, DESPITE it being only 50w on the surface.

That should be all..

Price of the PC u built - 600$ (with the PSU that u forgot)
Price of the PC I built - 725$

The PC i built is 20% more expensive, with the performance of a PC 200% more expensive, and with endless upgrade options and future-proofing.


If u have any furthur questions, or want me to elaborate on any part, please say so.

Enjoy!

Now all we need to know is his budget, and whether he needs an OS/which OS he needs.
Quote

Thank You Calum, you take own the prestigious role of GX1_Man well.

Thank You Calum, you take own the prestigious role of GX1_Man well.

Dear, loneworlf9
A computer is an investment, u pay more money now, inorder to reap the benefits later on.

CPU - E6300 (175$)
[highlight]Its the most powerfull CPU on earth, can u not pay another 75$ for the most powerfull CPU on earth?[/highlight]

RAM - 1GB DDR2-667 (85$)
You will need more ram later on, but this will do for now.

Motherboard - ECS NFORCE 570 SLIT-A (75$)
This is a great motherboard. It has 2 PCI-E slots so u can have 2 nVidia graphics cards working together, and it costs 10$ than the motherboard u were planning on buying with only 1 PCI-E slot.
Its not an Asus, and i do trust Asus, but its perfect for u!

Graphics Card - 7950GT/7900GS (250$/175$)
Remmember! The most important thing by FAR in ur PC is ur graphics card. Spend as much u can on it. IF u have to get the bad CPU and get one of these graphics cards.

HDD - 250GB 16M cache S.ATA (75$)
If u get the 80GB ull be paying almost twice for each GB. This is the BEST value for HDDs by far.

Optical Drive - DVD-RW (25$)
No problem here, DVD drives are so cheap u can buy 4 for the price of an HDD.
DVD drives have both CD and DVD capabilities, so its perfect. I would even get 2 of these for copying disks.

PSU - Thermaltake Toughpower 550w/600w (125$/175$)
If u buy the toughpower 550w, u will only be able to power a single graphics card, and u will need the ability to power 2 at some point. If u buy the 650w u will be set for 2 cards. So ur choices are like this - buy the 550w right now for 125$ and then buy an extra PSU just for the extra graphics card for another 50$, or just buy the 600w for 175$ combined right now. And yes, the difference beetween the 2 is huge, despite it being only 50w on the surface.

That should be all..

Price of the PC u built - 600$ (with the PSU that u forgot)
Price of the PC I built - 725$

The PC i built is 20% more expensive, with the performance of a PC 200% more expensive, and with endless upgrade options and future-proofing.


If u have any furthur questions, or want me to elaborate on any part, please say so.

Enjoy!

E6300 2.93Ghz = QX6700 2.66Ghz

They both have the exact same cores, but the QX6700 has more cache, wich gives it a tiny little advantage. Needless to say that in games, there is NO difference beetween the CPUs.

Quote

E6300 2.93Ghz = QX6700 2.66Ghz

They both have the exact same cores, but the QX6700 has more cache, wich gives it a tiny little advantage. Needless to say that in games, there is NO difference beetween the CPUs.

Where are you getting these??? look here. It shows the E6300 1.86GHz. but I found another interesting article look here.

Recently had problems with computer flashing multiple windows of emails or advertisements.  Thought the was computer infected so I just reformated the HD and reloaded XP Pro and SP2.  After what appeared to be a successful load, I went to load the two programs, which also appeared to load successfully.  When I went to load the new printer drivers, the computer became non responsive.   It appeared to LOCK up.  When I went to see if one of the new programs would boot up, I double CLICKED on the desk top, and mouse pointer/hour-glass would constantly flash at different POINTS on the screen.  So I went to the Start MENU and went to 'all programs'.  When I attempted to leave the 'all programs' to select the program I wanted, it would send me back to the dest top, and I couldn't get either of the programs to start.   I tried a different video card but the problem is the same.  I can't get any of the programs to respond.    Appreciate any advice.Is it a real XP CD that says Microsoft all over it?

A good format and reinstall should solve all problems for a while IF the hardware is functioning CORRECTLY. Did you format the drive during the installation?

I have an HP Pavilion 9720, it has 2 memory slots and the machine says it can hold 512 of memory, 256 each.  The original memory is 128 so I have tried to upgrade to the maximum of 512.  I can add a 256 stick but if I fill the other slot my computer will not boot up.  I have tried both sticks of memory in each slot and as long as only 1 slot is full the computer will boot no PROBLEM.  I'm looking for suggestions please.

Thank you
Make sure your new memory meets the specs of your system provided here:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph06461&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=60059&lang=en#N1558

Post your results here.

Best of luck and Merry Christmas!The ram I've purchased seems to match up ok.  The chips I'm installing SAY 256MB  / PC - 133
Quote

The ram I've purchased seems to match up ok.  The chips I'm installing say 256MB  / PC - 133

And for the third time what are all of the specifications for the chips? CL, manufacturer, model number, etc. It should be on the packaging or on the chips themselves.

[highlight]Does each one work in either slot, or are you trying them singly in the same slot?[/highlight]

Hiya there.

Bought a new comp some two weeks ago, and thanks to some awesome help here, it's working perfectly!

Yesterday I decided I'd try and do some OCing (first time ever, hopefully I won't screw everything up ), and went on to download some CPU diagnostic thingies. Stumbled upon INTEL Thermal Analysis Tool. Much to my suprise, it was showing my cpu temps to be around 50°C idle, waaay too much in my opinion.

Downloaded SpeedFan, but that told me the CPU temp was at 35°C.

"Weird", I thought, and went for the BIOS, where the temperature was around 30°C...


Here's a little pic from today:



BIOS showing 29-31°C.


So, what should I trust? SpeedFan, BIOS, or Intel TAT?
  Hopefully not the Intel thingy... can't be bothered with a remount of the heatsink. ^.^
  And what is that AUX in SpeedFan?


Thanks!
  / DanIt's NORMAL for different programs to report different temperatures.
The temp in the BIOS is not under load, so that is the correct completely idle temperature.
As for the others, it's anyone's guess.
I find Everest to be pretty accurate.
The AUX in speedfan is nothing to worry about, it often has strange temperatures at impossibly high or low readings.
In your screenshot, the Speedfan result seems very low to me.  I think the Intel one, at 39, seems about right - you have a Pentium M, correct?  That's what's shown in the screenshot anyway.  They run cool, so a reading of 39 seems right to me.What are the specifics on the machine that you are trying to DESTROY overclock? Quote

What are the specifics on the machine that you are trying to destroy overclock?

Morning I have problem my pc keeps stopping, I can go on a site (any site) everything is ok  for a while then it stops working,
i can MOVE the mouse about, but when I click on anything it dose not work,i wait about 10/15 seconds and it comes back on
this happens about every 5 mins. can anyone help  pleaseI suggest removing and re-seating the RAM. Also double check to make sure all the power connectors are seated firmly as well as any peripheral cards. Moreover, DUSTING the insides of the system is always a good idea. I've had systems that did the same thing and I couldn't figure out what was going on. In the end, when i put the system back together after cleaning all the dust out, it worked just fine. Hope it helps. Thanks Lorraine I have done all that ,but unfortunately the problem is still there .do you have any more suggestions
anything would be appreciated,
 
   thanks.,
What browser and version

How many TAB are OPEN and browser windows

What is running

How many people are using the internet and do what when you are

System specs would help and ISP speeds.  www.speedtest.netWhat are your temps ? ? Quote from: ivanoe on September 23, 2016, 03:28:50 AM

Thanks Lorraine I have done all that ,but unfortunately the problem is still there .do you have any more suggestions
anything would be appreciated,
 
   thanks.,

Starting a few days ago and getting progressively more common and extreme my new laptop(assuming Hard Drive), will sometimes go out of control, spinning extremely quickly causing the laptop to vibrate. The noise gets so bad that people in Skype calls have called it the sound of a lawn mower, or a remote control plane.

I am not sure what is causing it, but here is what I have checked:
-Virus Scan (AVG), 0 viruses.
-Computer says there "are no HARDWARE issues"
-The computer is not overheating, the fan is exposed, and I can put my hand anywhere and not feel too much heat.
-The computer is overall new, got it about a month ago, and haven't done anything that should cause any issues, I have kept Virus Protection on it, don't download untrusted stuff, all that jazz.

If anyone has any ideas on this that would be great, do remember this is a laptop, not desktop. Specs as well as a recording of it below (I apologize in advance for the poor sound quality in the recording)

Specs:
2.6 GHz i7 CPU
12 GB Ram
64 bit OS (win 10)
1 TB hard drive




[attachment DELETED by admin to conserve SPACE]Is there a disc in the DVD drive of laptop?

I have had this issue with a DVD Drive spinning up a disc in the drive that is off balance causing the vibration. If you have a disc in the DVD drive remove it and see if the noise goes away.

Cooling fans are the other likely cause. A fan that is off balance will vibrate. ***If its a new laptop return it for another under warranty vs opening it up and voiding your warranty.

Its very unlikely that the hard drive is the cause. The drive is sealed and platters are balanced as well as if it was a hard drive is dying the sound would usually be a WHINE vs vibration. Vibration means something is off balance ( unbalanced DVD is in DVD Drive - or- Fan Failure ) Quote from: DaveLembke on September 23, 2016, 05:47:11 AM

Is there a disc in the DVD drive of laptop?

I have had this issue with a DVD Drive spinning up a disc in the drive that is off balance causing the vibration. If you have a disc in the DVD drive remove it and see if the noise goes away.

Cooling fans are the other likely cause. A fan that is off balance will vibrate. ***If its a new laptop return it for another under warranty vs opening it up and voiding your warranty.

problems with my laptop: when i turn it on it MAKES a banging noise like church bell for like 35secs and later stopped to continue POST again when want to boot windows (Vista) it shut itself down. it only boot in safe mode without shuting down. pls help meYour Hard DRIVE is the likely CAUSE of the Gong ( church bell ) sound. I heard DRIVES before make a sound like that, just not as loud as a church bell gong and it was the arm in the drive slamming and the platters in the drive resonating the sound to make a bell like sound.

Do you have the media to install clean or repair installation for this computer?
Do you happen to have a SPARE hard drive available to swap out the drive, and install clean to a different hard drive?Are you using battery power or is it plugged into the wall while you're using it? It could be the laptop's PSU going out, or perhaps something is wrong with the motherboard. It may also be over heating super quickly, though unlikely.

Hi Guys, Just bought Maxtor back up hard drive external, It plugs in to the PC via USB. What I want to know can I plug it in directly to my blueray home cinema player via its USB socket? At the moment I use the 32Gig USB storage stick. Thanks JabbaShort answer is NO.
Long answer:
without more details about your blue Ray player, it is hard to give a precise answer. Also, it helps if you include the current specifications of your computer and operating SYSTEM even though you have been here before.
Normally you would use your blue Ray player as a way to read discs you have created. I suppose your blue Ray player is not a recording device, it is only a reading device.
The preferred way to make a backup is to SAVE your system, programs and data to an external hard disk drive using the USB port.
You can also save the contents of your computer by doing backups onto Blu-ray It may take several this to back up. The advantage is you have a permanent and low-cost backup system that can be stored in a very small area on your shelf.
Please provide some more details of what you intend. It sounded like you intended to use your blue Ray player and your external hard disk drive together without the use of the computer. Normally Blu-ray players are not intended to be universal backup devices for personal computers. That is, they do not automatically perform the task that you want them to do. The blue Ray player is the peripheral device, which means it needs something else to make it do additional things.
Does that help any?I doubt very much, geek, that the OP is asking the question that you answered "NO" to. I have a Blu-ray player with a USB socket and I can plug in to that a pen drive/memory stick and play back material stored on it, and I can also plug in an external USB hard drive and do the same. Some models only support hard DRIVES formatted FAT, FAT32, other support NTFS as well and even ISO files. We will not go into where ISO, MKV, avi etc video files come from! I would say to the OP, read the manual, plug it in and see what happens. If the hard drive has its own power source, all the better. The USB socket on the Blu-ray player may not be capable of powering a hard drive, and could be damaged by one that expects to take its power via USB. Again, read the manual!
Salmon Trout.
Thank you y for the correction.

I got home after spending 4 months abroad and turned my notebook on for the first time, everything was fine. When I turned on my external harddrive, it recognised it as normal, but when I tried to explore the drive the notebook froze. I tried CTR+ALT+DEL and everything and it didn't work so I switched it off.

When I turned it back on I noticed the initial boot screen seemed to be taking much longer than usual. It normaly just flashes up for less than a second. It does the memory test then some text flashes below, I think it's the rest of the booting stuff but it's too quick to read, then the screen goes black and it starts the whole thing again. I pressed F2 to enter setup and it took about 30 seconds for it to enter setup which is really slow.

Does anyone know what I can do?


It's American Megatrends BIOS I think

OK, I took a video on my camera so I can pause it and see what is flashing on screen:

It says
Press F2 to enter setup
Press F12 for BBS (I think) POPUP
Initializing USB Controllers ... Done
224MB OK

Then it stops for a bit, then it starts over again.

If I press ESC when it stops on the 224 MB the following flashes up very quickly:

Auto Detecting Sec Master AIAMPI (or something)

Then it says something about a USB mass storage device being found. I don't have anything connected to the computer.

Then the rest dissapears and "Checking NVRAM" appears at the bottom very quickly

Then a new screen comes up with:

Intel UNDI, PXE-2.0  (build 082)
Copyright (C) 1997-2000 Intel Corporation

SiS900 PXE BootROM v1.09 Hook Int19

Then there is just a blinking cursor underneath.
Have you still got the external HDD connected? Quote

Have you still got the external HDD connected?

Strange, have you tried loading the default setting in the BIOS? Might not do anything, but its worth a try?

Quote

Strange, have you tried loading the default setting in the BIOS? Might not do anything, but its worth a try?

Yes I've already done that. I've also tried the boot CD that came with the computer and a different one I made myself

and when I use them it just goes to

Intel UNDI, PXE-2.0  (build 082)
Copyright (C) 1997-2000 Intel Corporation
 
SiS900 PXE BootROM v1.09 Hook Int19

and stops.

Have you ever used Ultimate Boot CD? :-?

http://www.majorgeeks.com/Ultimate_Boot_CD_Full_d4981.html

I don't know what you have on the Bootable USB stick. :-?

Have you typed (Format C:     at the dos prompt?

I don't have a floppy drive though. The computer boots from CD first then HDD. But I can press F12 to choose which to boot from and have tried both my HDD and the CD and neither work.

I can boot from USB I think as well, so I might try that.

Wait, when I go to BIOS the only options I have to boot from are:

CD/DVD
Intel UNDI, PXE-2.0 (build 082)

What about the hard drive? This must mean something's gone wrong with my harddrive.

Quote

Have you ever used Ultimate Boot CD? :-?

http://www.majorgeeks.com/Ultimate_Boot_CD_Full_d4981.html

I managed to boot from my USB stick, well I got into DOS. Now I don't know what to do. When I try and change to C:\ it says invalid drive path.


If it's just the boot sector of my hard drive which is rubbish,

can I boot from a CD or my USB stick and still load windows? Or if my whole hard drive is gone what can I do?

Recently i have discovered that whenever i play any file that has sound, my laptop speakers project the sound in an echo type of sound?  I THOUGHT it was maybe the fact that i had some programs running and maybe those programs were slowing down my laptop, but then i restarted my laptop and didn't open any other programs other than Itunes.  I also tried to play a movie on windows media player and the same thing happened.  

I also kept my laptop on the bed and floor for a while and was wondering if it had something to do with being overheated?  Everything else seems to be working fine, except my sound?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.adams......  Have you tried uninstalling your sound card drivers and then reinstalling them?


dl65  A piece of paper that came with my laptop states that "if you need to repair your system, you can do it from the hard drive or from your own set of recovery disks" -->  it also says that I must create the recovery disks?

I think my sound driver was installed with my computer, do you know how to uninstall and reinstall a driver that already came with the laptop?
i might be that you have some environmental sound config running

chech control pannel to see if you have any advaced sound control panel outher than the standard windows one

like "Creative Control", "EAX Control" or "AC97 HD"

if you do have some thing like that you might be able to set a sound envioment
We don't even know what kind of laptop it is YET.  
Well thats why my response was quite Vague,

So Mr Adams If that is your Real name?

What type of laptop is it , if you post a make and model number we might be able to find out exactly what parts you have and be better able to service your request.

are you stuck at work too GX1 man?HEY guys, sorry i didn't post my laptop make

its a Hp Pavillion Dv5130Ca, i just purchased it this past June.

My first name is Adam, i just added the s on the end because i thought "Adam" would be taken.

I'm going to look in the control panel, do you guys think my speakers could be echoing because of a physical problem?One question do you have a built in mic in your system. if you do you might be getting reverb from it. Bring up your EQ and see if you have your mic turned on if you do then turn it off Quote

i might be that you have some environmental sound config running

chech control pannel to see if you have any advaced sound control panel outher than the standard windows one

like "Creative Control", "EAX Control" or "AC97 HD"

if you do have some thing like that you might be able to set a sound envioment

Ok guys I need some SERIOUS help. I am completely confused.  :-? :-? :-?   I reinstalled xp and the only way it works is in safe mode. I tried something earlier and it completely shocked me. I plugged in a mouse in the USB port and restarted it normally and guess what it work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But if i unplug it, it shuts down and restarts any suggestions besides calling for an EXERCISM sp?    So if anyone knows a good priest or has a bright idea please let me know. Thanks in advance for any helpDid you disable the USB item correctly before unplugging it?Window = Mouse Required Quote

Window = Mouse Required

I have a Soundblaster Audigy 2 and CREATIVE 5.1 SPEAKERS.  The sound quality is HORRIBLE!  Turning it up loud at all distorts all sound, and no matter what volume I have it at, whenever cymbals are played in a SONG they sound distorted and "hissy."  Please help I love music too much to have this go on much longer!  Thanks.

john :-?

Since my Dell tower SUCKS, I am looking to buy a new one. Does anyone have suggestions on a $100-$200 tower I COULD get so I can optimize my gaming. I need a tower with AGP slots in it. Any suggestions would be great.Perfect Agent52......  Exactly what do you mean by tower ?

Are you refering to just the case ?

More information is required .


dl65  
I mean the case. Sorry I get mixed up between the two. When I think of a tower, I think of a whole built computer.Whether you have AGP slots is determined by the motherboard, not the case. The case itself makes no difference to performance, provided all your hardware fits in. If you WANT to "optimize" your gaming, spend your money on better components first. If this is brand new, try to get PCI-E, or are you reusing some of your components?Well, I basically have to buy all new components, because the ones from my Dell are pieces of trash. I doubt I will be able to do anything at 16 years old,  but I wanted to start to design it if I ever get a chance to get started.While you're waiting for the $s to APPEAR you could get your existing computer to RUN as good as it can.
Disable services and startup programs that you don't need is a good start as is registry cleaning, crap cleaning, defragging and re-booting.I think his issue (from other posts) is that he does not have AGP or PCIe slots or much expandability with the Dimension 3000 he has.

Is your whole point to do gaming? You are talking several hundred dollars MORE than what you have allotted to do this.I don't want to go for the ultimate setup, I just want to play Half Life 2 and I got a good deal on the card, I just assumedd this computer was compatible, I learned to do my research before making purchases.If you are inexperianced with computer hardware (which seems to be the case) I would advise against building the computer yourself out of individual components and buy a "full" computer. Less chance to go wrong.

i can't get my hp deskjet BACK to ready status from offline status...any SUGGESTIONS?Try rebooting both the printer & the computer.Are your ink cartridges fullAnd if that doesn't work let US KNOW. The next step would be to reinstall the software, or consider a HARDWARE fault, which will probably not be cost effective to get repaired if your warranty has expired.

I would like to get the modem to pick up the line so I can record phone conversations (in a legal manner, of course) with Jet Audio, which will capture anything coming through the sound card.  I want to record a weekly conference call in which I participate as part of a MLM organization.  I tried using Qmodem, but it only goes to IRQ 15 (F hex) while my OS (Win XP-Home) shows that my modem is using IRQ 18 (decimal, I think).  Info that I found elswhere on this site tells me that IRQs only go to 15 decimal.  Who's right, and how do I get the two of them, together?  My equipment:

Sony Vaio PCV-RX950
Modem: Agere Systems AC '97 attached to COM 3, PCI bus 0, device 2, function 6, using IRQ 18 (decimal, I'm pretty sure) I/O /Range B000-B0FF, Range A800-A87F
Drivers: arrsmdel.exe, AGRSMMSG.exe, AGRSM.sys, Modem.sys   Let me know what other info about my system is needed.[/font] Quote

I would like to get the modem to pick up the line  - - -

[/font]

[size=14]Qmodem is a legacy (pre-internet) communications program, used to access Bulletin Board Systems (BBSs).  My system was purchased in 2003, so it's fairly new.  I run WIN XP, and I'm fairly familiar with the AT commands. I regularly use the modem to jump on the internet, as dialup is the only service available to me at this time.

Thanks.

Danny. [/size]

[color=#660x099]Willie, your suggestion that I use "Dialer" did the trick.   I had no idea the program existed.  

It doesn't show up in the Start Menu.

Thanks a lot.  I recorded my first conference call last night.  Problem solved.

Danny.

[/font][/color]

Does the Compaq Presario 6000 model 8350us need amplified SPEAKERS?  I tried using my speakers off my HP (non-amplified) and I get very very LOW volume.  I have a Creative LABS Sound Blaster PCi 128 installed on the compaq.If you have low volume, try checking all the volume controls.
Your main system volume, the volume control on the speakers themselves, the other volume controls in Control Panel --> sounds and audio devices, and the volume control in whatever you are using, eg Windows Media player.
If you don't have some of those volume controls, don't panic.  For example, there may not be one on the speakers.
And make sure the speakers are plugged into a SPEAKER output (and firmly), some sound CARDS have headphone outputs which are much quieter and can look similar.
Hope this helps.
Yes. :-?

http://www.sparepartswarehouse.com/Compaq,Computer,Part,294408001.aspx

http://www.sparepartswarehouse.com/Compaq,Presario-Desktop,6000,Computer,Partslist.aspx

I just this graphics card for christmas, and I was wondering if it compatible with my Dell Dimension 3000 desktop.I also wanted to say MERRY Christmas too you guys cause I haven't been on in a while.Also, the computer has 256 mb of DDR ram, but the card is DDR2, does that make a difference?I did some googling, and it appears that the Dell Dimension 3000 has no AGP or PCI-E slot, so you can't upgrade the graphics unless you use a PCI slot.
Sorry.
Merry Christmas to you too.
Oh, and the DDR/DDR2 thing doesn't matter with graphics cards and RAM, it's only with RAM you need to worry about it.
So that doesn't matter, but you have no expansion slot for the card.
Next time you may want to do some more research before buying a graphics card to make sure it fits.That is correct Calum. This Dimension will need a PCI card and was never meant to be a gaming machine. Be sure the card has no major power supply requirements, because the Dimension 3000 you describe has a 250 w PSU, and it is Dell specific so you cannot just go get one off the shelf. The card you describe will NEVER work, no matter what.

If you want to game it will be better and cheaper to just START out with another machine, although you already have a nice video card.Well, they sell the same card just in PCI express, can I use it like that?PCI = yes
AGP = no
PCI-E = no

Sorry!

And a faster card, such as x1600XT, but with 256mb would be better. I mean 512mb is more than your main system ram!Thanks for the help guys, and am now going to destroy this piece of crap Dell that my parents gave me because I don't have the money to do anything to it.GX1_Man is a Dell collector, sorta weird eh? The Dimension you have is not a piece of crap. It is what it is -  a basic word processing, e-mail, internet surfing, etc. machine - NOT a gaming platform. It does the functions it was designed for well.

The 3000 is an entry level computer. One that you want to upgrade ad infinitum would be a custom built PC rather than an HP, Compaq, Dell, etc. basic machine. This is like bying a Lamborghini engine and complaining because it doesn't go in a Chevy Corsica. It was not made to, and the Corsica was not designed to accept it.

If you don't want it, sell it to a friend (or their mother or grandmother), on eBay or send it on to me.  I am just frustrated because I really wanted that card for christmas. I like the computer, just wish I could have some kind of gaming in it.It's a nice card, just not appropriate for that computer.Here's what you would need to make it a gaming PC:
A new CPU, oops mobo isnt compatible, need a mobo too, more RAM.
And it would still be a minimal machine.
Get an AMD Athlon 64, a mobo that is compatible (939 or AM2 depending), a gig of RAM, and THEN you can install the graphics card. Also make sure the mobo has a AGP8x slot. it will cost about $200 for the upgrades!
$60 Athlon 64
$40 MOTHERBOARD it will most likely be $50 or more though.
$100 1Gb RAM

Depending on the card, you may even need a new PSU as well. That LEAVES the CD-ROM and case that remain and hard drive that remain.And a different case because that one will not work with a different power supply.

Also, those estimates are low.Yes, where are you buying your components from?

If you're getting a new computer I would, if possible, return/exchange your AGP card for a PCI-E one. But you're not going to get a new computer that much better than your current one for $200. Sorry.

I am using Windows 10 running on a DELL Optiplex 780.

My Epson NX420 printer prints pale blue streaks along with text. Actually it looks like a an over-sized highlight. Ink was not low, but I replaced all four cartridges and the problem persists.

I ran through the head cleaning and other UTILITIES. They did not fix the problem.Have done  a Google for:
troubleshoot Epson printer  ?
Here are a couple I found:
https://www.ifixit.com/Device/Epson_Printer
and--
HTTP://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1687808/epson-printer-horizontal-lines.html

That might be a start.See if this helps: https://files.support.epson.com/htmldocs/pho22_/pho22_rf/trble_2.htm#printer%20rollers%20leave%20unwanted%20marks%20on%20your%20documents%20bThanks for the help.

Looks like it's time to buy a new printer. This one is about THREE years old. I guess I got my MONEY's worth.

I was curious if SAY you want to replace laptops hard drive, is it possible to do this with an external hard drive like a goflex 1tb external? or is that only for cloning/backup

Windows 10 OS
dell inspiron 7737 BTW: I did order a replacement hard drive. This question is purely out of my curiosity while I wait.Windows is designed to only run on an internal hard drive.
Yes and No

Yes you can run Linux from an external HDD it is very slow and really not worth doing.

No for windows like Salmon Trout stated.

Not all external HDD are SATA drives in a cage any more.  Even still if they were there is no guarantee that it would even fit properly.Not only is installing Windows on an external hard drive a crazy IDEA (USB CHANNEL is too slow) but also the Microsoft EULA does not allow it.

Quote

Device. In this agreement, “device” means a hardware system (whether physical or virtual) with an internal storage device capable of running the software. A hardware partition or blade is CONSIDERED to be a device.

i have to HOLD each KEY down 2 sec to type NEW ps/2 keybd and dev MGR in XP no helpMore details needed. See below.

So, I have had several computers and have learned that every now and then, a computer will freeze. I've been able to solve just about every issue I have had with all of my computers but I just can't find the loose screw here. I just got a brand new laptop (a very powerful one in order to run the programs I will need for my education) and it puzzles me why I'm having this problem. Here is a link if you want to see the specs: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83WF8432

The issue I'm having is on random occasions, my screen will decide to freeze. But all processes are still running. For example, it will freeze and I can open the start menu, close windows, launch an application, and one time it happened in the middle of me doing a scan for outdated software; and surely enough, when the screen decides to come back to life everything I clicked appears to have already been done and my scan jumped all the way to where it normally would have been during the time the screen was frozen. This will last anywhere from 5 to 10 seconds and none of my hardware is receiving any kind of stress. I've also checked for viruses and malware manually and with antivirus software. Unsurprisingly there were none found (I'm very careful on the internet and I haven't had the computer long). Normally it happens after I click practically anything performing even the simplest tasks such as closing a tab on my browser. It isn't a regular occurrence either. Sometimes I go without this issue for more than a week, but other times it will happen back to back or a COUPLE times a day. Otherwise the computer runs very smoothly and can handle practically anything I throw at it, it's just on these rare occurrences I lose it. Please help. Thank you.

Also, I am running Windows 10. If covered by warranty, I'd use warranty to get it fixed under that, however it shows that it came with 8.1 and you upgraded to 10 and so the PC manufacturer would probably claim its not their problem because its Microsoft as the cause.

Windows 10 has been buggy. It could be a hardware issue but if the problem wasnt happening on 8.1 but became a problem after 10 upgrade then I'd say there is some sort of issue with 10 running on that laptop.

Are there any hints as to cause of the issue in the SYSTEM event LOGS of windows?

Are you able to ROLL back to 8.1 and run it for a while on 8.1 to see if the problem goes away and then roll it back forward to 10 to see if the problems come back. For the fact that the issue is infrequent it will likely take a while to solve this one, but steps can be made to try to isolate the cause.

Additionally each time it happens, write down what software was running. Maybe there is a issue with a specific combination of programs running that lead to this.Yeah, I actually bought it a couple days before the free Windows 10 upgrade anniversary ended so I wouldn't have to pay a ton for it. Anyways, the problem DID come after I upgraded to Windows 10, but probably 5 weeks after and it was kind of the first thing I did so it's hard to tell. Honestly I wouldn't think it's a Windows 10 issue. Also no, I'm not SEEING anything out of the ordinary in the even logs. I could roll back to 8.1 but then I'd be losing a LOT of information and programs I've already put on this pc. And I know I could use an external hard drive but it's a hassle I'd rather not deal with if there's another way. I will start to write down what programs are running when I notice it though. Hopefully I can find some kind of pattern.Have you tested the system at all with testing / benchmark software? I would start with the Memory and test it outside of Windows to see if there's any hardware problems.

http://www.memtest.org/#downiso

I have a Kingston MobileLite G4. I have encountered a problem with the FRONT usb port on my case or motherboard not sure. I have to plug in the mobilelite g4 a couple TIMES to get the computer to RECOGNIZE it then it gives me a message "This Device can perform faster" USB Mass storage. Which is strange because I am 100% sure I'm plugging into usb 3.0 port and the mobilelite g4 is usb 3.0 device. The problem only happens in front usb ports of the case. When I plug the mobilelite g4 in rear usb 3.0 ports I don't get Device can perform faster message. I never had a problem before with the usb 3.0 port until now recently. I tested SPEEDS benchmark crystal disk the speed results are slower now. I tried USING usb 3.0 extension cable and it still would not work. Seems nothing can give the mobileite G4 enough power. I tried updating to latest usb 3.0 drivers still no luck Front USB ports are notoriously under-powered....use the rear ports...Also, I deleted your signature - it used far too much real estate. Anyway, you already listed your specs in the appropriate place.I bought this extension cable for rear usb 3.0 ports of my computer and this cable still could not give enough power for kingston mobilite g4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0ES0VC/ref=cm_sw_su_dpTry a generic reset.

Unplug everything from the PC desktop. EVERYTHING. Press and hold the power button for one minute, release and then plug in ONLY what's needed.

specs http://speccy.piriform.com/results/0Q23z23ifvre8XItEru2WKZ

Lately i have just installed ANOTHER CPU into my dual slot motherboard but lately my screen has been freezing after a bit and the volume buzzes for a while then it fixes it self and i can still usa ts and stuff but my screen isnt responsive and i cant do anything its frozen so i turn of my pc then i turn it on then i get ERROR code 3 4 on my dell precision t5400 which is about ram so i take all my ram out put it back in and restart my pc and it works for a bit till the cycle continues As I said in chat a list of all the hardware models...sheesh

ok we can work with  dell precision t5400  general specs

we do NEED full models of the ram though

I overlooked the speccy report....DOH

ok ram is in the report..is the front fan blowing over the ram working and plastic shroud is in place ?

each ram NEEDS tested with memtest Quote from: lostcoast on August 28, 2016, 01:05:13 PM

As I said in chat a list of all the hardware models...sheesh

ok we can work with  dell precision t5400  general specs

we do need full models of the ram though

I overlooked the speccy report....DOH

ok ram is in the report..is the front fan blowing over the ram working and plastic shroud is in place ?


each ram needs tested with memtest

Lately i have just installed another CPU into my dual slot motherboard but lately my screen has been freezing AFT

So why not go back to how it was?

Old IT Proverb:
The Best computer is the one that works.

As I said in chat a list of all the hardware models...sheesh

ok we can work with  dell precision t5400  general specs

we do need full models of the ram though

I overlooked the speccy report....DOH

ok ram is in the report..is the front fan blowing over the ram working and plastic shroud is in place ?

each ram needs tested with memtest

Like the name says, I'm another one of those people who needs help buying a new computer. I've saved up $1000, but could probably go about $100-300 over that at the very very most.

Hopefully with clearance sales here and there, I'll be able to save a few dollars.

I'll be using my computer for a few mid-ranged games like Medal of Honour, Battlefield 1942, and I'll probably be getting games like Battlefield 2 and Battlefield 2142 in the near future.[System specs in the links]  [Right now, I can't play MoH: AA or BF1942 since my comp is a 533Mhz Celeron, but I bought them both brand new for 5 dollars at a discount store and couldn't resist]

I'll want to play those games VERY well and possibly still be able to play a few games in the near future. So using these games as a guideline on basing my computer on, I've looked around for some parts.

Right now I'm looking at specs like these:

Core 2 Duo E6300 [Possibly 6400 or 6600 depends on pricing]
1 GB DDRII RAM (maybe 1.5)
At least 160GB SATAII HD
ATI X1600 Pro [GT maybe, pricing dependant]
A decent Motherboard I guess
Not too concerned with soundcard
16X DVD +/- RW writer [Quick question. Can these things run and burn DVDs and CDs?]
1.44 Floppy
At least a 19" LCD
Keyboard, Mouse
Win XP Pro

So what I need help with is:
How much would this set up cost? Separate parts bought? Packaged?
Should I replace any of the hardware I mentioned with something better/cheaper?
Anything else I'm forgetting?

I'm currently quite reluctant to buy parts separate off the internet and have it assembled since I live in Canada and NewEgg is American. That would mean slightly long wait times, higher than listed prices, and inconviences if I have to return.

So what does everyone say?So you are wanting a Canadian source for this? Maybe we have a Canadian around who can jump in and advise you on that.LOL ......... How about Tiger Direct ....... located in Markham .....

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/indexca.asp?SRCCODE=TIGERUS&CMP=IL22454


dl65  Just the Canadian I was looking for!   Quote

Right now I'm looking at specs like these:

Core 2 Duo E6300 [Possibly 6400 or 6600 depends on pricing]
1 GB DDRII RAM (maybe 1.5)
At least 160GB SATAII HD
ATI X1600 Pro [GT maybe, pricing dependant]
A decent Motherboard I guess
Not too concerned with soundcard
16X DVD +/- RW writer [Quick question. Can these things run and burn DVDs and CDs?]
1.44 Floppy
At least a 19" LCD
Keyboard, Mouse
Win XP Pro

So what I need help with is:
How much would this set up cost? Separate parts bought? Packaged?
Should I replace any of the hardware I mentioned with something better/cheaper?
Anything else I'm forgetting?

First of all, are these prices in CDN of American dollars?

CPU: I'm going to try and avoid getting the E6300 or 6400 mainly because I could double my cache and get a nice boost in clock speed with the 6600. Also, I'm not that good with overclocking, but then again, I could try.

GPU: Again, is that CDN or American? Anyways, now that I've looked at some benchmarks and some other details on the cards, and really, I think that the X1800 or even the X1600 will still suffice for what I'll be doing for the time being I'm sticking to about 19", perhaps 20". The monitor size isn't a huge factor for me. But the main thing is that by mid-next year, new games and Vista will be based off of DX10, and as of now, not even the X1950 XT will do me any good at that point as it won't support it. I'd rather wait awhile, get an ok card like the X1600 (or the X800 if I really need to) and then upgrade later.

Monitor: Like I said above, a 19" will be just fine for me, but if I find a good deal, I might go for 20" or 22" like you said. But, I did find a few 19" LCDs from Samsung that had an 8ms refresh rate and were only about $240 and another one from Acer with a 5ms refresh rate, 700:1 contrast, for only $230

Power Source: I don't think I'll be getting two cards any time soon, if at all.

The whole point of getting a motherboard that supports a dual-card setup is so that u can now buy a single card, and then later on when the card has gotten lower in price, buy another one and hook them up together.
Buy a PSU that supports only a SINGLE card now, and another Addon PSU just for the second graphics card, once u choose to buy it.

The processor alone is $302 Canadian, $261 American at that site vs Track's quote of $200, presumably US funds.

I don't know where he is buying DVD-RW drives for $25 in any fund.

Well that's not $25, but it is only 20% more. On the other hand you were only off 10% on the processor.

Hi,
My BJC 2000 Printer is not working ? I have been told by Cannon Care, that it may need a new printer head,

"The BC-21e is the container that holds the ink tanks.  From time to time
it will need to be replaced.  If replacing the BC-21e does not resolve
the issue then the UNIT would require service."

I would like to get some more advice, I received an AOL update, and after words the printer did not work, I am not sure if the update effected the printer.

The notation when activating the printer is an error report, . .
The printer did nothing.
I was able to get one and only one test print but after words, it just buzzed and hummed like it was going to work, when the resume button was pushed.

The printer head does not move. or stays to the side when the resume button is held down.
Sometimes it will act up an hour or two later since it does not delete the first print command, but does nothing afterward.

Can any one give me some input ?



I have no clue about whether the AOL update has anything to do with your printer problem.  It seems unlikely, but I'm not an AOL user, thank goodness.  

Did this problem start right after the AOL update?  Does the printer behave the same way, REGARDLESS of what application (word processor, spreadsheet, etc.) you try to print from?  

I have two BJC-2000 printers.  I bought one and the other used to belong to my mother.  Only one works now; however, I can remove the print head unit with the ink cartridges in it and PUT it in the other printer and then the printer works.  This a clear indication that, indeed, the printer head unit in these printers can become faulty and need to be replaced.  In the case of the printer that used to belong to my mother, I suspect months of non-use contributed to the demise of the printer head unit in it; long periods of inactivity are not good for printers.  

The BC-21e package contains the printer head unit and the two ink tanks.  From what I've seen, it retails for about $50.  However, you might want to check for them on ebay.  I just bought a new BC-21e on ebay for $25 (free shipping).
Hey Soybean,
Thanks much!

About AOL, I feel the same way but don't have a choice.

I guess I'll try the printerhead and appreciate the E-bay idea.

Jp
And that printer is rather elderly. I finally killed off two of them.  GX1_Man,

Sorry, I'm not sure who's Printer your talking about, mine MUST be 5 yrs. old, is that old ?
If your talking about yours are your referring to BCJ 2000, and if so was the problem solved with new print heads ?

JpI'm sure it is at least 5 years old and probably 8. Unfortunately all equipment fails eventually.

I ruined one using an off-brand cartridge rather than a Canon one which ruined the print head. I do not believe Canon included new heads in every cartridge as other manufacturers did. The print head was only rated for 2000 pages, although obviously many lasted longer. The entire machine only had a 1 year warranty, so hopefully you got your money's worth.

I would hesitate to suggest you spend more money at this time on that equipment. It may not solve the problem at all.

Ok, so first off I am fairly knowledgable in the computer field (at least i think so).  Anyway I have decieded to build my own computer for the first time, my other ones crap in a box.  Ok so I have researched basically everything just so I can slightly sound like I know what I am talking about.  

First off I'll list what I am getting (I live in Australia)

• Thermaltake Kandalf case (only really for looks) If you can give me any advice on any other cases that would be great (I want one between 200-300, a lot of ventalation) - $309
• AMD 5200+ X2 cpu   - $610
• 2gb PLATINUM corsair memory 6400 DDR2 (any cheaper alternatives?) - $393
• 500gb hard DRIVE ALONG with my old ones a WD 320gb and something 80GB  - $350
• GeForce 7900gtx graphics card - $400
• tough power power supply - don't know yet
• Asus motherboard (not sure which one yet - any advice greatly appreciated) - hopely less than $400

Ok, so first off I am fairly knowledgable in the computer field (at least i think so).  Anyway I have decieded to build my own computer for the first time, my other ones crap in a box.  Ok so I have researched basically everything just so I can slightly sound like I know what I am talking about.  

First off I'll list what I am getting (I live in Australia)

• Thermaltake Kandalf case (only really for looks) If you can give me any advice on any other cases that would be great (I want one between 200-300, a lot of ventalation) - $309
• AMD 5200+ X2 cpu   - $610
• 2gb PLATINUM corsair memory 6400 DDR2 (any cheaper alternatives?) - $393
• 500gb hard drive along with my old ones a WD 320gb and something 80GB  - $350
• GeForce 7900gtx graphics card - $400
• tough power power supply - don't know yet
• Asus motherboard (not sure which one yet - any advice greatly appreciated) - hopely less than $400

By the way I am spending my life savings on this so if you can give me any alternatives or some advice, please give it to me.

Now if these questions are completely stupid then please tell me.  
Ok my idiot question is do I have to buy a sound card if I have already got the 7900gtx?  Also do I have to buy a tv tuner?

and I believe that is it, thanks in advance.

I have replaced 500 Watt ATX SMPS for my Sempron based old desktop with Intex 450 Watt SMPS. Intex's products are low budget products and it has a good name, but not sure whether to use it or not. It is of 450 Watt and both the size & weight are lower than my old SMPS. 

Configuration of computer:
AMD Sempron Processor
Gigabyte motherboard
1 GB RAM
250 GB Seagate HDD

Old SMPS
Navotech  500 ATX


New SMPS
Intex 450 W


Also, please let me know if this iBall SMPS is okay. I purchased it earlier, but not sure about it's watts:
All of those are just as low quality and bad as each other, pretty much as bad as you can get in fact, I would not use any of them - Even if I was given a PC with one of those, I would replace it before I started using it.  The power supply is the one part of a PC you should never cheap out on, always get a good brand such as XFX, Seasonic, FSP, Antec, Corsair.etc.

Notice how your current "500w" one only has 10amp on the +12v rail - This works out to 120w.  A good power supply should output over 80% of its rated wattage on the +12v rail, yours only outputs 24%!  Same with the Intex which DESPITE being sold as 450w, also states that the total output power should not continuously exceed 200w.  Not only do they not come close to outputting their rated power, I highly doubt that they have the proper protection circuitry that a good unit would have.  If one of those fails (and it will), it is likely to take out other COMPONENTS with it.  It is also possible for something to short out inside the system, a good unit would detect a fault and SHUT down, those cheap ones generally don't and can cause wires melting and fires.etc.

With power SUPPLIES, you really do get what you pay for.  Don't risk it.Hello,

I just got Corsair 450 Watt for my old Desktop with the following specs:

• Gigabyte Motherboard
• Sempron Processor
• and 2GB RAM

• Digilite Motherboard
• Phenom II X4 965 Processor 3.40 GHZ
• and 8GB RAM

When it "turns off" the monitor goes black and my speaker loudly echoes whatever the last MOMENT of sound was it got from the pc. All of my fans and leds still appear to be on as if my computer just stopped outputting.
MEMTEST86 should be run on this system... RAM ( Memory ) Issues can cause this audio noise loop and black screen. Additionally a power supply that is not up to par can dip ( low voltage ) and cause a drop out of the system but it to stay running and black screen.

What make/model computer or specs?i added my specs to my profile i believe
please run memtest86 for a few passes to make sure RAM healthy. then crystaldiskinfo to make sure hard drive healthy in case issue with virtual memory crash.
How are your temps & fan SPEEDS? Any error messages or it just drops out/off? Also do make sure that you have all the Windows latest updates and drivers installed. windows is up to date. i have two 140 mm fans PULLING air in the front. 2 120 mm in a push/pull config pulling air in the rear through my cpu's radiator.  and 3 140 mm exhaust fans blowing out the top.
i never get an error message. when i pull google chrome up after it crashes it asks to restore my pages.
i just did memtest86 and got no errors it passed perfectly. took 55 min.
going to download crystaldiskinfo next and try that.

*just downloaded the program it says both my ssd and hdd are in good conditionsooooo no help then?How much stuff do you have at hand?
Do you have another motherboard that will accept all lour things?
Try a test of everything in the spare motherboard.

FYI Memtest86 does not test all memory.
- Unless you use the 64 bit version.
Quote

64bit - From version 5, MemTest86 is native 64bit code

every time i OPEN it or GO to its properties, it always close like 1sec or less, i can still SEE it but closing too fast, do i need to remove SOMETHING in order to access it or something is blocking me to access it?

My Monitor only gets a signal if I turn it on before turning on the Computer. It's never happened before and I can't find any setting that applies to this issue in Bios or Monitor Menu. Any Idea's are appreciated.

Thank You
JohnDo you HEAR any BEEP codes when the computer starts up? If not, your PC MAY not even be POSTing. The issue may not be with your monitor. If you have another monitor (or even most newer TVs would work), connect that to test the video output.No BEEPS. It'seems as if the PC can't see the monitor unless I turn it on first. I did have my TV connected for a short period as a second monitor but recently disconnected it.  Thanks for replying.

John

I have a first gen i7  2.9 mhz with a Asus sabretooth mb. I am fairly experienced but I haven't had this incident before. I was considering buying this computer moniter but it wouldn't work. Now that I think about it, it didn't work in the same way my computer doesn't work now it didn't have a wall plug with 110 but you plugged in this voltage reducer that went to the wall and voltage was  dropped to 17 volts or maybe it was 17 watts anyway it was the only adapter that met the specs written on the back of the Samsung moniter like I said it didn't have a normal female plug in that usual plug and didn't use those short power cables that go in power supplies, moniters etc. So the new moniter just had a pattern it said to check the cable it wasn't getting a signal and nothing I could do, like switching cables WOULD get the moniter WORKING. Then while I was putting everything back together I accidently bumped the cord and pulled it out from the back of the video card at a angle it came out easily it wasn't screwed in and somewhere after that I couldn't get my desktop to either of the 2 moniters that I use. So either that new non working moniter did something to my computer or when I pulled out the video cable it did something. Everything was running while I was switching moniters around, I ve always done it that way and I ve never had the slightest problem with that plugging and unplugging moniters while windows10 (or any os) was running. I don't get a POST screen while its booting the only thing it could be IMO would be video card (cant think what else it could be) its not cables or moniters. Is there anything else i could try before buying another video card?
When I bought the computer it has sli, but I let it get too hot (left cover off and it fried one of the gx460 cards) so I'm down to one card now I would hate to buy a card and have the same thing. I guess it could be the motherboard too Thanks for any help!You have been pluggin/unpluggin monitors and kickin cables...all with the power on...your lucky the PC even boots.Actually it doesn't boot, that is what my post is about. How would it be harmful unplugging the moniter?.  I can understand with something carrying power but its just a signal. There are a bunch of places/actions that wouldn't be advisiable, IMO that isn't one of them.
I guess you don't have a guess.? I must have hit you on a bad day Have you reseated the Video card? Even if you screwed in the video card (which seems to be counter indicated by not bothering to do so with the cable, in a sense) it can still loosen the graphics card, so it is worth reseating it.

You should be able to determine if the graphics card is the culprit by either installing a known-good graphics card or trying that graphics card in a working system and seeing if it Posts.

Quote from: gaveupontv on September 30, 2016, 11:28:50 PM

How would it be harmful unplugging the moniter?.  I can understand with something carrying power but its just a signal.

I helped a friend of mine build a new PC with some parts from his previous PC. AMD480 was bought first then replaced with nvidia GTX 1070 GPU, ASUS TUF Sabertooth 990FX R2.0, AMD FX8370 4.0, Using previously installed Ram 16gb, using previous HDD and SSD. got everything hooked up started PC up and there was first no signal from from the monitor.. I tried various methods to try to get it to WORK including taking everything apart and putting it back together. I finally noticed the VGA_led light was solid red. i was assuming it was the GPU after nothing else had worked.. bad card right? plugged in old GPU and it woked fine. i plugged the AMD 480 into my MB which is a 990fx ud3 r5. it worked fine.. returned the card for the Nvidia 1070 only to have the same problem. if i push the reset button and push the Mem_ok button on the MB it will boot up to the screen where u can push F1 to run the Bios. I looked at every setting in there and messed with everything i felt safe doing to no avail. i can get windows to load if i [bootoverride] from Bios to the SSD with the OS on it. i Flashed the Bios to the 2901 version and updated the Utility also.. STILL nothing. if i restart or shutdown the PC it will not boot up unless i pus HTE reset button and the MEM_ok button on the MB. can ANYONE help with this? i ambeyond frustrated but also intrigued by this side note: I did also try using different RAM to make sure the ram wasn't bad. in fact i used 2 different sets of ram. all had same result