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Ok, so I GOT home today after a week long "vacation" and TURNED on my computer to finish a paper. It has Windows XP and an NVidia 6200 graphics card, 2 GB RAM, 2 WD RAPTOR 36 GB hard drives in SATA RAID config, and I'm not sure what the processor is, but I think its an AMD Athlon FX-53. I have no idea what the Mobo is other than that its an Asus. Anyways, my computer started booting up, and was working fine until after it got past the first Windows loading screen (That screen with the Windows symbol, with the words "Windows XP" under it, and a little progress bar). After it got past that, my screen WENT black and then my monitor came up with the message "No Signal". It then proceeded to make enough noise so that i could tell that the hard drives were working, but the screen still had the "No Signal" message. I have rebooted the computer several times, which yielded the same results, and checked all the connections to no avail. I think its a problem with the graphics card.
Please help!Is this a desktop that has a built- in graphics  as well as a graphics card? Did your BIOS BATTERY go dead? Those two things might do like what your said. But did you try to boot in "safe mode". You hit the F8 key before Windows STARTS.
 :-/

You can use one monitor with 2 computers.
You can either unplug the monitor each time you want to change between them, or buy a video switch so you can flick a switch to change the monitor between computers.
For gaming, the CPU doesn't have much of an impact.
If you have a large budget like that, I'd go with an Intel Core 2 Duo, because it is much more powerful than an AMD processor, and therefore [highlight]you will benefit form the increased performance when you're not gaming[/highlight].  Plus it will help slightly when you are gaming.
Hope this helps.

So here's the deal: I would like to put an old hard drive that was given to me into my computer. So I wanted to test it out to make sure it didn't have any viruses and to see if it had been wiped clean or not. WELL I hooked it up to an old computer of mine and I checked the hard drive space and was told that it had 2 partitions of 6 Gb each. I went ahead and loaded up fdisk on Win98, deleted all partitions and set up a new primary partition with max space and active. Then I reformatted the drive and loaded up windows and was told that I only have 7.8 Gb now. Well I looked on the cover of the hard drive and noticed that there should be 13.5 Gb so I'm basically missing a lot of space. If someone could please help me recover that space it'd be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Ohyea and here are the specs for the hard drive:

Maxtor Hard Drive
Model #: 91366U4
HDA: 04A
PCBA: 07A
Unique: 23A
Code: RA530JN0Is the hard drive showing at its proper size in your BIOS?

When you run FDISK did you say "Y" when it asked if you needed large disk support?

If you are running windows XP you could also just TRYING partitioning the drive within windows (I assume this is a 2nd drive in addition to whatever drive you have windows on)

To do that go to START->Control Panel->Admin Tools (may need to have it set to classic view to see admin tools)

Double click "Computer management" and click on "Disk management"

It will then display your hard drives installed.  NOTE:  Be sure you SELECT the proper drive and do not delete patitions you want to keep!  Right click on the area of your maxtor that you want to use, delete that 7.8 GB partition you made and then right click it again to CREATE a partition, then right click it again to format.Is sounds like the two partitions were not actually deleted from within fdisk or some other anomaly occurred. The drive may have problems as well. Maxtor has free diagnostics available on their web site to test it.

when i plug my guitar's preamp into the sound input of my soundcard, how come only the left SPEAKERS play any SOUNDS? any help is greatly appreciated.Do both speakers usually play sounds?
TRY playing some music - does it come out of both speakers or just the left one?
What setup do you have?  For EXAMPLE, 2.1? 5.1?the speakers work fine when playing anything, except for when using my preamp to connect my guitar in the input for playback. i have a 5.1 setupIs it possible the cord from preamp to computer is only mono, not stereo, or the pre-amp itself may only be mono, not stero?  I don't know alot about guitars and preamps I am afraid.there are no settings on the preamp for switching between stereo and mono. also, my converter for which i connect to my sound CARD input is a stereo converter.

See photo below.

I think one is just PCI.
Is not PCIe.
What is the other?

Here is the problem. I looked for video cards that work with the GX520 Dell.
Very hard to find a correct answer. Even the Dell site is hard to search for that kind of thing..
This is an example where Human Eyeballs are better that a computer database.

Please, what are they? 

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]It's a PCI slot. the added "Tab" is for use as "Riser" which ALLOWS the two slots to be put perpendicular to the board:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-OPTIPLEX-GX520-PCI-SLOT-RISER-CARD-ASSEMBLY-H5156-CN-0H5156-M5247-CN-0M5247-/391138254335?hash=item5b11a81dff

The reason for doing so is because the GX520 is a low-profile case. The riser allows installing full-height PCI cards.

I think this is the correct one.  Have attached a image and the link for the manual that I pulled the image from.

http://downloads.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_desktop/esuprt_optiplex_desktop/optiplex-gx520_user%27s%20guide_en-us.pdf

Page # 124

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Thank you both. I would never have guessed. It is a riser slot. 

You learn something every day!

I had been hoping twas another kind of PCI, like some forgotten PCI version.

The cost of the riser was rather high.

Here us riser:


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Let's bring this post to a proper ending.
I want to feed two monitors from my old low profile Dell PC.

Look again at the picture above.
It seems there is,  somehow, a way to convert PCIe down to PCI.  Do you believe that?

Some pots on other forums STATE  the GX520 low profile desktop  has only PCI slots. Yet in one of the Dell manuals it was stated that the GX520 LP could have a PCIe device inside.

Well, to make a log story short, I bought a bargain dual port low profile  ATI dual port graphics card that is PCIe and not plain PCI. Can't useit. Unless I get an adapter.
OR
Maybe I could find a dual port LP graphics card tat is just PCI.

Yeah, If I wee to just upgrade my desktop to a modern model this would not be a problem. I refuse. It's the principal of the thing.

After going through all this torture, I may ha veto ask my doctor to put me back on Prozac.

So, I think this thread has ended. We are talking about the crazy stuff the PCI  industry did about 8 years sago. Namely, make a new hardware almost backward compatible;  then torture the end-user who needs it to be so.

References:
https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/Slot-Extension/PCI-to-PCI-Express-Adapter-Card~PCI1PEX1
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1778463/pci-compatible-pcie.html
If you read the links above, have a box of tissue NEARBY. 
Good Bye PCI, I hardly knew 'ya.
It's a 13 year old computer, not worth upgrading.  Use it "as is" or give it away.
Early dual-core motherboard, Pentium-D.
Just barely Win10 compatible.
Computer_Commando, you are right. And I should know better. 
Let this be advice to anybody out there wanting to use old computers. It is hard to maintain old stuff and compatibility issues become overwhelming.

I have two or three possible solutions. I now am waiting some interface cards to see if I can upgrade this old clunker. Years ago I did dual monitors with very old equipment and I think it still is within pragmatically.  Maybe in a week I will post results of my quest. Our I will switch to a newer computer.Update. Here is a much better photo of my GX520 slots.

You can see that one slot for sure is PCI.
The other is, I think, a slot for the Dell riser assembly for this model. Note that this is a smaller than normal tower and takes only half high cards. Also, it looks like  one slot is missing the connector. As if they intended to include it on a different model  Maye this same motherboard was used on the full high tower.

I have ordered a riser card cage that claims to be for this model.
End of story. No way. Dell does not mke a riser that converts PCI to PCI E. 

So, I have another desktop with dual video outputs.But no slots. It is a Optiplex 745 ultra small form.

That DVI does both VGA and digital output on two channels.
Here it is driving two TV sets.

So, this topic can be closed. 
Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 01, 2016, 11:41:04 PM

Dell does not mke a riser that converts PCI to PCI E. 

So I recently PUT in a new graphics card for my recently built computer and at first it worked but after a couple of minutes it stopped working and when i would try to turn it out it made 1 long beep and two short beeps.

 I found out this meant a video ERROR so i TRIED using three DIFFERENT video cards, I tried a different monitor and different connectors. I also tried resetting the cmos and that didn't help at all either. I also tried the other psi port on the motherboard and that didn't help either.

I'm thinking that it may be a motherboard problem and that ill have to buy a new motherboard but I'd like to know if there's something else I didn't think of that might fix it before doing that.

My Motherboard is a MSI gaming 970  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130790
My graphics card is a Rx 470 (I also used the gtx 650 and Radeon 8700 I think, which both were working just fine with the same setup before)Assuming the 12V connectors have been properly plugged into the molex for the video cards, I would try swapping out the power supply first before blaming the motherboard as for a weak power supply could cause the video card to fail to operate properly. Be sure the power supply is rated for a gaming video card of 500 watts or higher. Quote from: DaveLembke on August 31, 2016, 10:02:22 PM

Assuming the 12V connectors have been properly plugged into the molex for the video cards, I would try swapping out the power supply first before blaming the motherboard as for a weak power supply could cause the video card to fail to operate properly. Be sure the power supply is rated for a gaming video card of 500 watts or higher.

get small screwdriver not (+) use the (-)  and put into the vga place in board " make sure everything is off, mean no power at all " and move it softly to make sure all pins in there places

Assuming the 12V connectors have been properly plugged into the molex for the video cards, I would try swapping out the power supply first before blaming the motherboard as for a weak power supply could cause the video card to fail to operate properly. Be sure the power supply is rated for a gaming video card of 500 watts or higher.

That PSU is Modular...it should include more than 1 12V cable...

If just moving the cord caused it not to work i'd return it immediately for a replacement...

Return it...before it's too late...

My wife bought an Emprex 19inch Widescreen TFT for my Christmas and when I connect it up it flashes going from a normal screen to black in rapid succession. I took it back to my local Comet (where it was bought), they wouldn't accept it. They instructed me to phone  the number which they wrote on my receipt. All that I get whenever I have tried to phone this number has been the continuous tone.
Maybe they are still on holiday?

In the meantime is there anything that I can try? I have tried to alter the resolution and the refresh rate.
When I hold two of the BUTTONS at the side, the flashing stops, but when I have to let go the flashing starts again.

My system is as follows:
AMD Athlon 64 3200+
1gb ram
ATI Radeon Xpress 200

I WOULD be most grateful if someone can come up with a solution to this problemIf you go into the BIOS and the monitor still has this problem, then it is definitely the monitor.

If the monitor has a fault, then it is best to use the warranty, however it is required (check your documentation). THere are no user servicable parts.

A merchant that will not take back faulty merchandise? I would talk to the manager and find another store in the future.I can go into the settings without the screen flashing.

I take your point about talking to the manager, which I will do if I can't find a solutionTry booting up in safe mode. Repeatedly press F8 when booting up. If it doesn't do it in safe mode, it might be your graphics card/drivers.Safe mode is fineIf safe mode is fine, then try changing the screen resolution. Most LCD's have a native resolution (see your manual) that they work best at.

Go to the desktop and right click and choose Properties to change this.I have tried all that, nothing appears to work. What is the redraw rate and how do I alter it?
GX1_Man, when you suggest going into Bios, do you mean just to open up in bios or alter something.

I can quite happily open up in Bios without any flashing.Nothing to alter in the BIOS that will help your situation. I just wanted to know if the monitor was functional in some capacity before any Windows drivers came into play.

Did you check the resolutions as instructed?

http://www.microsoft.com/enable/training/windowsxp/screenresolution.aspxTo alter the redraw/refresh rate: display properties > settings > advanced > look in monitor/adapter tabs. If it's not already, try 60Hz first. Quote

Nothing to alter in the BIOS that will help your situation. I just wanted to know if the monitor was functional in some capacity before any Windows drivers came into play.

Did you check the resolutions as instructed?

http://www.microsoft.com/enable/training/windowsxp/screenresolution.aspx

My conputer was running slowly so i decided to factory reset it and after i did that it got stuck in a continuos boot loop. It will start and do some weird stuff then go to a black SCREEN, then it repeats non stop. Ive WATCHED multiple videos and PEOPLE say i need to boot from a usb and stuff LIKE that but i dont have windows on a usb so i dont think that will work. Any help is appreciated, thanks! Did the computer come with Windows 10?
What is the brand and exact model?

For years I have USED wireless devices by just putting in the password and hit the enter key. Not aby hassle, if the password is right.
Now comes 2016and new routers have push buttons and all your have to do is push the button. Really? What if the router ins behind my desk on the floor? Or in another room?Or in another building? Why is this better?

To make matters worst, now I can not log in using XP on my laptop that has a Inter Pro wireless adapter. It does not want my password. It wants a PIN. Where is the PIN? Or an ownership password. HUH? I have always been the owner. It is on the route?. Why is this any better?

I demand an explanation! Why not just leave it the was it was? 
WPS buttons have been around for years and are completely optional - Your router will still have a security key that can be used instead of the button - I've owned several routers with these buttons in the past and never used it once.

Not sure what your XP laptop is doing but I doubt it's to do with the WPS button.This laptop is a Dell IInspiron 1705, also called 9400.

I believe the issue is with the Intel Pro Wireless, buitl0in toy Dell laptop, just does not play well with my knew router. (From Xdinity,, part of ComCast.)
Now I am on the laptop using the Ethernet instead. But I would like to use the laptop in the DINING room.
I guess I will have to disable he Intel wireless card and just use a generic WI-Fr * USB thing, winch always works.
The undermines my confidence in anything Intel does.  How can a wireless interface be so hard?
Put another way, if the stuff from China works, why not the stuff from Intel?

* The  spell checker makes it WI-Fr  for unknown reason.
What is it actually doing when you TRY to connect?  Intel are generally known for making some of the best wireless chipsets out there - I explicitly pick laptops that contain them.It does not ask for the normal password. Instead, it asks for the PIN. I find the PIN inside he router, then I copy it into the PLACE with Intel wants it. The it waits some two awhile and then says it not make the connection.
Now I use  another wireless device this never happens when doing a wireless connection with this router. I can not find any option to not use the PIN.

EDIT; This is in hardware because it seems to be an issue with this computer only and not Windows XP. To keep my sanity, I just now  rebooted into Windows 7 and the thing works well. Same  Dell  laptop, Same Intel Wireless.   This would make me think some strange thing got into my XP install on this laptop.

Workaround is to either not use XP or use another adapter.
 But if anybody out there knows something about the Intel Pro Wireless card, please say something.

I will be performing an experiment but I need to figure out how to give a percentage of overall GPU usage. I will be monitoring CPU, RAM and GPU usage to see which one TYPICALLY lags behind. I'm not referring to the number of FPSes either.Using temerature monitoring COULD give you an pretty good idea of usage.
Take idle temp and under heavy load temp (HIGH res GAME) for a 0 and 100% mark then just do a little MATH to get your percentages.

Ok, so a bit of a LONG story. A couple of weeks ago, I loaded Norton GoBack on my laptop. It came free with the anitvirus I bought, so thought why not. Well, as soon as I loaded GoBack my computer stopped working ... it apparently had forgotten it had a hardrive. It wouldn't boot in any way shape or form. After two days, some tech guys managed to get my computer to turn on, but since then, none of my 4 USB ports have worked and neither does my built in Bluetooth. Luckily my card reader and Wireless internet still WORK, but that means only half of my connections in total work, and my laptop's only 4 months old. I tried loading a new driver for my Bluetooth, but it says that it can't find my Bluetooth device.

I have a Lenovo 3000 C100 series 0761. I have 1.24 RAM ( had extra memory added a couple of weeks ago) but not SURE about other stuff.

I hope someone can help me, because I'm really gutted and angry about this happening. Norton have been totally useless in helping me.  you could try a system restore whenever there is one before you installed the programThanks for the quick reply. I tried that and it didn't work  
Any other ideas?Not really, iv never had good results from norton, it screwed up an old compaq i had, and it still gives the computer problems after 2 years of being uninstalled.  I was reading http://www.itreviews.co.uk/discuss/1154 <--- that and it looks like lots of people have troubles with it.  "Avoid like your life depends on it" thats kinda mean the other dude had a good review. does the device manager say that they are found in your computer?No they're not listed on the device manager either. And I downloaded PC Doctor 5 and that can't find them either. I've seen some poeple who've had problems with Norton writing on the net that they're going to take them to small claims court over the damage the program's done.

I'm just really gutted that something that's supposed to protect your computer can wreck it so badly.i know what you mean, im having problems on one of my computers for ABSOLUTELY no apperant reason, and i had all sorts of anti spyware and antivirus crap on it.  is the computer still under warranty? i mean can you send it back or something and see if they'll fix it? 4 months isnt very longI'm hoping it's still under warrenty - I paid to have the memory upgraded less than a month ago and I've been told since that that MAY have voided my warrenty. Good one. I've emailed the place where I bought it to find out but I'm still waiting for a reply. It's a bit of a nightmare really.Sometimes when you uninstall a norton product, it still leaves crap on your system.  Even their uninstalls can't seem to get it right! Norton sucks imho.

But just incase you should download and run the symantec removal tool.  It should remove EVERYTHING norton put on your computer providing you used a product put out in the last few years.

Here is the link, just ignore Step 3 where it says reinstall your norton product

http://service1.symantec.com/SUPPORT/tsgeninfo.nsf/docid/2005033108162039

I do not know if this will fix your problem but its a good thing to do after uninstalling any norton anything.I doubt your hardware itself was damaged. A good format and reinstall solves all Windows problems...for a while.

I have been reading the other topics concerning this issue. I'm having a similar problem but with some twists. A few days ago my computer would not recognize either my CD-burner or CD-Rom drives, (E-drive & F-Drive). I checked in Bios and they were both listed & enabled but just would not run. I'm having a problem with the burner anyway and will be replacing it shortly , however, this is where it GETS weird. Yesterday, just for giggles, after starting up I went to My Computer and what do you know, both drives were listed. I checked the operation of the CD-Rom, everything worked perfectly. I restarted the computer so I could access Bios again, which I did. I usually have an operator password there to keep my kid out/off my machine. I installed the normal, operator password and continued with the boot-up. All booted up, etc. etc, went to My Computer, YIKES !! no E-drive or F-drive.. Again.
Well, I went back and removed the password thinking somehow that had something to do withn it. Needless to say, no change. So here I am back at square 1 where the machine does not recognize either drive. Each drive works mechanically, trays open, lights blink, etc. but will not respond to any installed disk, etc. I'm at a LOSS for what could be causing the problem. They don't even show up in the hardware list. NEED some advice / Help / tylenol.Are you sure you are free from malware?

Try totally disconnecting the slave drive and see if the master (whichever that is) works normally.Funny, Because I am Having that same exact problem. I have tried disconecting one, and conecting JEST the other one, and it still will not work. But about 2 days ago when I started up my pc one drive worked fine. I have been away from home for about 6 months and when I opened my case I noticed that it is really full of dust everywhere, could that be the problem? Also now when I start windows, I get the desktop backround fine, but I can't do anything, the mouse does not apear on the screen, even though it is plugged in fine, and I can't see the start menu or anything...really weird, could it be a Virus???
thanksI have been wondering the same thing....virus. I RAN my virus scans and even ran my spy ware software and nothing seemed to change. This is really beginning to be a pain and I would really appreciate some guidance.
Thank You

I am very worried about my new laptop, this night a thunderstorm started and i forgot to unplug my laptop, the energy go out and come back like three or four times, (during the thubdertorm my laptop had the baterry totally CHARGED), it looks fine but i do not know if that kind of things could do secundary damage.
I have an Asus laptop
(Sorry for my bad english)

Thanks for your answers  In a lightning strike the damage is often to the Ethernet device. The electrical surge GOES along the cable and enters the laptop. If the laptop is behaving, then you got lucky. Damage is usually pretty obvious. Suggestion I have is to at least make sure all important electronics is connected through a surge suppressor minimum with COAX suppression as well to protect broadband modem and network equipment as well as TV etc.

For my home I have multiple battery backups with surge suppression. 4 of them rated for 750VA each. *Which reminds me, they dont last for ever the batteries age and some of mine are almost 8 years old. I should probably TEST them or replace batteries or GET new battery backup units to replace the older ones.Is it working properly ? ?
read his other thread. There's nothing wrong with his system(s)

Will this BLACK EPSON work to fill CANNON inkjet printer CARTRIDGES?

[attachment deleted by ADMIN to conserve space]

Hello Members!

My HP AIO vide model no. F2235 is turning up "E" in the display panel, with Red indicator besides "Black" turned ON as well.

My Black Cartridge is not empty, & the same has been confirmed by the use of Tissue-paper. Black Imprints are clearly visible on it.

Tried pulling out & reinserting the Cartridges to no avail.

Turning the Printer OFF & then ON is observed to rather aggravate the issue as All indicators on the front panel are now in their ON state , with Display showing up -" 8 " this time!

Kindly help suggest further in this regard.

Inputs will be sincerely appreciated.

Thank you.  Hello Members!

Iam awaiting a Feedback on this! Is there a  way to RESET the Memory of HP Printers in order to get RID of the persistent False-positives?

Please "Update"?You SAID...
Quote

ON state , with Display showing up -" 8 " this time!

I've seen these symptoms from people using generic non-HP cartridges...

Patio,
Does that mean the carts damage the printer?
Or does HJP show bogus error messages to sell their ink?

So my electron sipper build just recently became unstable and trying to pinpoint the cause. The strange thing is that WINDOWS 7 event log shows no problems. Memtest86 shows no memory issues with the RAM. Crystaldiskinfo shows no problems with SSD drive health. Voltages are all solid with no problems there and computer is powered through a battery backup so I know its not a problem with dirty power. Temp of the APU is a healthy 41C so its not a thermal issue.

The system boots fast and no problems but the LONGER the system is running the more prone it is to have these freeze ups where you see the Windows 7 pointer turn into a blue ring and the hard drive light stays on solid and you mouse pointer will move the ring around on the screen so its not completely locked up tight, BUT pressing CTRL+ALT+DELETE the system doesnt respond to. I have forced the power off with power button to reboot it and then everything runs ok for another hour or so, as well as sometimes it works its way out of the hung state if I wait long enough.

Here is the list of hardware:

Motherboard: GA-AM1M-S2H http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4937#ov
APU: Sempron 3850 Quadcore 1.3Ghz
RAM: 4GB (2 x 2GB) Corsair DDR3 1333Mhz
PSU: Corsair CX 500 ( 500 watt )
Drives: 90GB OCZ Agility 3 SSD
          : DVD-RW SATA

Running Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium. System is a clean build with correct and latest drivers. Updated drivers that were out of date and no fix to issue.

I have run lengthy benchmarks on it to stress it and they all complete without issues. Battered the SSD drive with Read/Write cycles and it didnt show any performance issues.

Its kind of frustrating that this one doesnt stand out as to the direct cause. Im hoping that its not the main board, but its really strange that there is no trouble in the event logs for this freeze up condition to point me in a direction of what to check out.

Tempted to use Macrium Reflect and clone the SSD to a available HDD I have to see if this would fix the issue since its odd that the hard drive LED stays on solid during this freeze up condition, which might indicate an issue with the SSD. However a drive acting like this should be raising flags in its S.M.A.R.T data log. Figured I'd throw this up on here to see if anyone have any other ideas on what to try before cloning the SSD drive to a HDD and disconnecting the SSD to see if that is the fix.

OCZ SSD diagnosticsYou could try Control+Shift+Escape as well; I've found that to be a more reliable shortcut to get to task manager when a system is under load. (I don't even use Control+Alt+Delete anymore since I only used it to start task manager anyway!

Another option could be to use Resource Monitor and have it list PROGRAMS sorted by disk activity. (On the disk tab, in the  "Disk Activity" section you could sort by "Total B/s") and at the very least you should get an indicator on-screen about what executable is accessing the disk so heavily. It will even list the filename. Of course since the system is unresponsive and freezes when the issue occurs it would MAKE sense to make sure all the data will be visible (eg. without resizing columns or scrolling)Thanks guys, will try that out tonight

My niece ASKED me to look at her laptop. It starts with running the repair mode then comes to "No BOOTABLE device". I went into the BIOS and the information of the hard drive is there so it RECOGNIZED the drive. Could it be the boot manager?

hi all ,

i bought a new "samsumg"  DVD RAM , but when i enter an empty CD or empty DVD to burn , it gives me the following message

it reads CDs and DVDs normally though  :-?

can anybody help me with that ?why nobody answers to my problem .... plz heeeeelp me  A blank disc has NOTHING on it, nothing to read. Why do you think you should be able to access it? Does it write OK? If not, that is another issue. THe fact that it reads normal discs indicates there is nothing wrong. What software are you using? How are all the drives jumpered?

So how is this a problem? Quote

A blank disc has nothing on it, nothing to read. Why do you think you should be able to access it? Does it write OK? If not, that is another issue. THe fact that it reads normal discs indicates there is nothing wrong. What software are you using? How are all the drives jumpered?

So how is this a problem?

Even if it's a blank CD or DVD ....[highlight] the normal thing is to read it and indicate its a blank ( 700 MB free , 0 bytes used ) .... am i right ?[/highlight]
anyway , of course i tried to write on it but also this couldnt happen .... i use Nero 7 software , the DVD RW drive is jumpered as a slave ....

Quote

Even if it's a blank CD or DVD ....[highlight] the normal thing is to read it and indicate its a blank ( 700 MB free , 0 bytes used ) .... am i right ?[/highlight]
anyway , of course i tried to write on it but also this couldnt happen .... i use Nero 7 software , the DVD RW drive is jumpered as a slave ....

That NEVER happens on my computers, at least onscreen.  

Funny, I thought I asked that, but never got a response. Maybe that is why the ideas quit coming.  

thanks Calum again and again though u did nothing this time  Grin

anyway , still this "inaccessible " problem bothers me .... but i guess it's of no importance now since i can burn the CDs

Quote

Funny, I thought I asked that, but never got a response. Maybe that is why the ideas quit coming.  

Oh yeah ? i think i told u that[highlight] i tried burning with nero and it failed [/highlight], didnt i ? plz read few posts above

Calum , i think i stated my problem clearly this time ..... I cant burn normal data on CD's , DVD's using Nero ... i tried burning an image using alcohol though and it worked .... now i am confused

Quote

Quote

Funny, I thought I asked that, but never got a response. Maybe that is why the ideas quit coming.  

Oh yeah ? i think i told u that[highlight] i tried burning with nero and it failed [/highlight], didnt i ? plz read few posts above

Calum , i think i stated my problem clearly this time ..... I cant burn normal data on CD's , DVD's using Nero ... i tried burning an image using alcohol though and it worked .... now i am confused

That statement didn't really say a lot like how it failed, what the error message was, etc.

Your quote was:

i tried to write on it but also this couldnt happen .... i use Nero 7 software

I'm using Asus Transformer Book Flip model TP500LN-CJ088H. Some of the keypads such as a, d, f, J, k, l, ;, ', 6 stop working several months ago. Since under WARRANTY, I've sent it to asus service centre to get repair. Upon picked up, the keypads working as well after been formatted and I've been told by asus's STAFF it was just a software issue and no keyboard/hardware replacement done.

Now the keypads problem happened again as before. I've tried in so many WAYS to fix it such as removing the battery for seconds (as recommended in so many forums), turn on/off filter keys, trying it in safe mode, turn on/off num locks, delete the driver in device manager and restart, updated the latest drivers from asus website, OS reset/formatted and others but nothing works so far.

Please HELP me to fix this out.

Four times I've attempted disabling digital signature requirement in Windows 7 for a 55GB OCZ Vertex 2 SSD VIA cmd, but each time I attempt booting the message appears that the signature is disabled. I have an IDENTICAL drive that I don't have that problem with nor with any of my other ssds. I've tried having only one of the two disks connected to the board. I never had this problem with this particular disk until recently. I recloned it and I guess I was only wishing upon a star as that didn't help.

Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 (rev1) BIOS F6
Intel Skylake Core i3-6100 3.7GHz
Avexir DDR4 8GB
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB
Samsung 2 x 850 Evo 500GB
Samsung 850 Evo 250GB
OCZ 2 x Vertex 2 60GB
Samsung HD204UI 2TB
Intel HD Graphics 530
RaidMax Hybrid 2 RX-730SS 730W
Windows 7 Professional x 64
Windows 10 ProfessionalYou said:
Quote

disabling digital signature requirement[/quote
Do you  mean a driver signature?
What is the exact error message?

Hello, first of all sorry for my english mistakes (it is not my main language).

I have an Asus model X556U and i bought it two weeks ago, the problem is that my cousing pull while walking my laptop power cable, it does not fell or something worst, but when i looked closely to the charger entrance i notice that it was loose (it moves slightly to all directions except towards and backwards), for the moment i have not problems while charging it but i do not if it would break later or something worst 
https://gyazo.com/dda9224acbe42090c768021d4f72476c
Thanks for your answers  .
If your lucky just the jack body is loose and the 2 pins for + and - are still solid and not loose in the daughter or main board. Brand new laptop you could try to USE a warranty claim and see if its covered for repair or replacement of the laptop. OTHERWISE I'd look for a way to secure it from movement.

If it were my laptop and not covered by warranty for the damage. I'd open the laptop up and either replace the damaged daughter board that has the power jack on it -or- pour hot glue from a hot glue gun over the PLASTIC jack body without getting glue inside the jack and BOND the loose jack body back to the daughter board. This would make the jack body solid again. I've used hot glue before for projects like this one.

Then in future you need to be sure that the cord is not a tripping or clothes line problem. This is a very common problem to laptops. When using my laptops I place my foot on the cord with some slack to the laptop and this way if ANYONE snags it its only tugged between my foot and the wall outlet vs the hard yank to the power jack of laptop. We have a dog that always likes to get tripped up and its saved my laptops from damage by eliminating the cord from getting yanked out back of laptop.Just do nothing. You do not yet have a problem.
If it does become a problem, it can be managed.**
What I what to say is that prophylactic treatment may do more harm that the alternative . The loose connection is not likely to cause greater issues.

** Batteries can be charge with another device in the went of connector failure.

My advice: Leave it alone.

I have one of these cards, that I put into my new gaming unit, I don't have the box to tell my what the display port is and can't find the details about it other then vendors.

Nvidia GTX 950If you dont get video out of one port then try the other. Some newer cards detect at boot if a display is connected as part of a plug-n-play feature so you will want the display connected prior to boot.that isn't the issue, I want to know what the display port is far as spec's.  I all ready have hdmi and dvi in use on the card.What make/model card is it like PNY or EVGA or MSI or other brand and model NUMBER or Part Number ( P/N ) they issued to it which should be on sticker on the card. You then should be able to find the specs of it. Just the fact that its a GTX 950 Im thinking the brand might also affect these specs as for one brand might use better components such as better RAM than another with the same GPU. Additionally NVidia is known for coining video cards to be under a name of say GT 730 and using a number of different GPU cores under the same DESIGNATION such as the GT 730 that I have comes in a couple different GPU's under the same GT 730 designation one for example is only 700Mhz while the other is 900 MHZ and one uses 64-bit while other 128-bit and some other differences too under the GT 730 designation and the benchmarks of the cards are all different although all officially GT 730'sDave - you're setting yourself up to have your wheel's spun by squall - just so you know.It's a PNY :/ I forgot that cause, it's a Nvidia CardI found out that it's a DisplayPort 1.2, after some extensive looking.  What for display ADAPTER do I need?

Greetings CH!

MODS: if this is the wrong section to post this please advise me. Im merely looking for some opinions on what I've done to a machine hardware wise.

I have an Acer Aspire AM3970-ES11P. Usually i build my own machines, however this one i picked up a few YEARS back for so cheap i couldn't say no. Its got a Intel I7 2600K, 6Gb ram, 1.5TB Green drive and due to the green drive rather slow. I obviously upgraded to 10 once the upgrade came out and its been an alright little system after i put a GT 630 2GB entry level card in it.
But i decided last week it needed an upgrade.
So here is what i bought, i got it a 1TB WD black HDD, as i needed the space and the speed, i bought a nice 6Gb Nvidia GTX 1060, along with a 600 Watt ThermalTake TR2.

So now its
Intel i7 2600K
6Gb DDR3 RAM
Nvidia GTX 1060 6GB GPU by ZOTAC
1.5TB green plus 1TB WD Black
ThermalTake TR2 600Watt PSU

My only issue is i have a VGA only LCD, so i bought a Display port to a VGA adapter. Thoughts opinions? your best bet is just get a monitor with DVi-D (cheapest if it also had VGA alongside DVI-D) or if you can afford get one with Displayport..... VGA is dead and nothing outputting a digital can convert to analog WITHOUT the need for wall power

ebay and craigslist (if in usa) can find some good monitors for very cheap... it's where I got an excellent Dell 3007wfp 30" ultrasharp monitor that sold new for about $1200 for $1000 less than original! I paid $150 for the thing! Quote

My only issue is i have a VGA only LCD, so i bought a Display port to a VGA adapter. Thoughts opinions?

Hi Forum,
I am thinking of getting a 12" Chromebook and using it most of the time with my 24" 1920x1080 monitor. Also I would use an EXTERNAL KEYBOARD and mouse.
Most CHROMEBOOKS are 1366*768. Will I be able to view at 1920x1080?
Thanks!
Mike
 Use docked mode, not mirrored mode.
Can you explain? What are docked, mirrored modes?
Can the 768 output 1080?
Thanks!
MikeIn mirrored mode the Chromebook display is also shown on the external monitor, and is at the same resolution as the native resolution of the Chromebook. In docked mode the Chromebook SHUT down its own displaye and will find the highest resolution SUPPORTED by both the Chromebook and the monitor. Why don't you say what Chromebook model you are interested in?

Quote

Why don't you say what Chromebook model you are interested in?

This may be a silly question.

When working from home, my wife connects to her office through a dedicated VPN (I don't know if it's Citrix or what). She also has a great deal of trouble printing to our wi-fi printer.

On my laptop, I use a VPN for basic security/anonymity, and I do NOT have a PROBLEM connecting to our wi-fi printer.

I always presumed that the Wi-Fi printer was inside a private ring created by my router, and the VPN only impacted connections LEAVING the router. I am guessing this isn't true, based on my wife's experience.

Some insight WOULD be helpful.Quick  answer.  Normally a WIFI Printer is part of your local network and not directly exposed to the Internet.
However, The printer can get to the Internet. Many modern printers do indeed have a way to let a remote user to use the network printer.
Sorry, I don't fully understand how they do this. I think it is a new practice.
Maybe you will need to get some help from your VPN company.

Here is a link that might help some.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/p/hp-all-in-one-printer-remote/9wzdncrfhwlh
Quote

e
With the HP All-in-One Printer Remote app, you can print documents and photos, check the status of your printer, and PERFORM maintenance tasks. You can also order original HP printing supplies and get help from HP support.  Some features might not be available with all printer models.

I have a IBM Thinkpad X201 with 2.4Ghz Core i5 and laptop and the power supply were both getting VERY hot. I decided to remove the battery and see if it would run cooler if the laptop was running at the same time and not having to charge battery. Sure enough the laptop was cooler no longer 3rd degree burns to hands or lap at bottom of laptop and power supply was no longer feeling like it was going to melt into a pool of molten plastic. All temps back to how a laptop should feel for heat output...

 BUT I noticed that the BOINC Asteroids program that I run on it when idle now was saying that it was going to take 10 hours to complete 4 project tasks instead of normally less than 5 hours.

Its running Linux Mint 17.3 Cinnamon and I installed i7z to it and it shows the core use and frequency and sure enough its running full tilt 100% CPU use, but only at 1200Mhz. I shut it down and install battery and bring it back online and its back to 2400Mhz with i7z.

This is the strangest thing because I never expected a laptop to downclock itself if no battery was present. Looking online I saw some stuff about going into the BIOS and setting performance to MAX on AC power. Did that and whats strange is that before it boots the OS I can hear the fan racing and pumping out heat and as soon as the Linux Mint 17.3 OS loads it calms so not sure if its hardware or OS RELATED as to the downclock to 1200Mhz from 2400Mhz when running without battery.

Thing is if I get the CPU back to 2.4Ghz without battery it might roast again so I'm sort of split in the decision to find a work around to where there is no battery having to charge adding load to the power supply and laptop while the laptop is also in use or just leave it be and let it run cooler at 1.2Ghz and take 2x longer to complete each work UNIT for the BOINC project.

Figured I'd share this hear to make others aware of this underclock feature that I guess Thinkpads do when powered with no battery present as well as get some input on suggestions of how to get the clock back to 2.4Ghz without battery or a way to fix the fact that both the laptop and its power supply roast when running full tilt at 2.4Ghz with this Core i5 520M.

*Saw that IBM has a battery recall for fires but the part number of my battery isnt included in the recall, however a part number of 42T4539 and 42T4648 there is a 42T46xx battery that is part of recall so thats why i wanted to do without the battery because maybe the problem runs earlier in production and not looking to have a Lithium Fire and lose the house etc.

** Other thing to mention is that the fan for CPU only kicks on when its roasting hot and needs to cool itself. I was looking around for a way to force the fan to run 100% of the time at full speed. Opened up the laptop and applied new arctic silver thermal compound thinking maybe that would help and no change. Tempted to snip the 5 volt wire and solder it to a 5 volt source on the main board to force it to stay on all the time when powered as for it goes through hot and cold cycles. If it was running all the time it would force max airflow across all components all the time and should level out the temp of the laptop at a cooler temp than 3rd degree burn hot and then fan kicks in to cool and then laptop not so burning hot to touch and then it heats back up again and  goes through this blistering hot and uncomfortably warm cycle when battery connected with or without wall power. Looking at CPU temp it rises into the 76C range and then drops to 55C when fan kicks on at 2.4Ghz. At 1.2Ghz the laptop is running between 43C and 55C. Not sure what the emergency shutdown temp is for the CPU in this small laptop but I think 80C is the starting temp threshold for some systems to alarm and shutdown at 85C. No option in BIOS to adjust or see what its shutdown temp is rated/set for. For the fact that the CPU reports the temps that seem correct the thermocouple must be ok for the temp monitoring for the laptop. I have heard of in systems before where a thermocouple is dead or not correct and it allows for systems to roast.

So thats all I have on this, looking for peoples feedback and suggestions on this one. Maybe its normal for the IBM X201 with Core i5 520M to roast, I see lots of complaints about people cooking their laps with them and people saying its not normal and others saying its normal and a flaw in this production line yet IBM isnt doing any recall about it and suggestions range from selling laptop to give the problem to someone else to shotgunning the problem by taking a chance at replacing main board which might fix the heat issue.

I got this laptop given to me by a person who upgraded to a Core i7 and larger laptop, and didnt want to pay their local dump $20 to dispose of it. When asking why throw about this laptop, the one and only complaint they had when they gave me it was that it runs HOT! But not hot enough to shut itself down. Budget to correct for this if buying parts is a solution is less than $50. Its not a critical computer and I have many computers. End result may be just to run it at 1.2Ghz and leave it be. Undecided with that but willing to try out solutions with it.  For the battery issue, this is inherent to Thinkpads, as you've found. The battery is basically a critical part of the power delivery system and without it the capabilities are a bit lobotomized:

Quote

The power adapter and battery together form the power delivery system for your notebook. Removing the battery reduces its ability to support heavy loads, so the notebook throttles back the maximum CPU speed. In some cases, changing to a higher wattage power adapter may eliminate this throttling. There is a higher risk of system corruption or damage through accidental disconnection of the power adapter.

You don't mention it but have you verified that it's not say clogged with dust inside? Also Some search results I f ound where others have the same issue with that model have claimed the problem was resolved by removing and re-applying thermal paste, as well.

** Other thing to mention is that the fan for CPU only kicks on when its roasting hot and needs to cool itself. I was looking around for a way to force the fan to run 100% of the time at full speed. Opened up the laptop and applied new arctic silver thermal compound thinking maybe that would help and no change.

Maybe its normal for the IBM X201 with Core i5 520M to roast

Prior to re-pasting it would hit the low 90s and the fan would be much louder

New  thermal compound is not better than tooth paste. It does nothing.
Try this:
Stick some thermal compound in your mouth...
Does it get cooler?

New  thermal compound is not better than tooth paste. It does nothing.

Zinc Oxide is not good for the mouth, and in this case most thermal compounds use a metal like aluminum which inst good for mouth.

Air Conditioning
The converse to sitting in the sun, working in an air conditioned office means a lower ambient temperature which means that your Mac is not soaking up lots of external or ambient heat.

New  thermal compound is not better than tooth paste. It does nothing.

ok can ANYONE help me my pc has been crashing lately and giving me the error CODE for Memory modulesare detected, buta memory failurehas OCCURRED so i did memtest with 2 STICKS and it got through and said it worked then i tried some of my other sticks but they froze 1-3 mins in then i tried the original 2 that WENT for a hour before and they froce 5 mins in ld it be the slots or somthing 

when i takwe my ram out and put it back in it works for a bit then crashes and i have to do that again and again

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/0Q23z23ifvre8XItEru2WKZYou alreagy have a Topic started on this...

Topic Closed.

Well...  I can certainly say that the battery I had my uncle put in my old computer was bad.  It was one I bought ONLINE.  Foolish me.  I decided to buy one over at BestBuy, and when my father put that one in, in place of the one my uncle put in....  Viola!  The TIME and DATE is saved again.  New hope has been GIVEN to that old computer.  It looks LIKE one big problem with that computer has been resolved.Glad you are all fixed up.  

That's why I kept after you about was it a new battery.

I know that the scroll wheel of optical mice is an encoder. I would like to use it as encoder in a stepper motor controller. But... how to identify correctly that encoder insede a mouse?? I'm disassembling a Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space] like a good project.you must be a hobbyist and you have an application for a stepper motor and you need to find out how far the stepper motor has moved some object. The type of encoder used in the wheel of a mouse uses a counter to count the number of times of real has moved either forward or backward is done optically with a little light and a photo receiver that to count the number of pulses off of the wheel. If you look at the circuit you may notice that it is mostly a single chip device. Are you thinking that the the hook encoder for the real would be separate and distinct from the encoder used for the rest of the mouse?
The mouse itself sends out the data as a stream of serial bytes. Elsewhere the output of the USB mouse is documented and a driver in software interprets the information. What I'm trying to say, is not electrically or mechanically simple. You have to have a rather sophisticated decoder to filter out the pulses with the information coming from the wheel and not the rest of the mouse.
How far do you want to go with this project? Personally I think it'd be EASIER just to go out and find a simple decoder that will measure linear motion. it's rather pricey. Those things are usually limited for special commercial applications.
I'll try to see if I can dig up some information about this. But meanwhile, tell us what you already know about this then how far you want to go with it.here is a link I found that has some information about how Rotary encoders are normally used commercially. The basic concept is used for any time you have some kind of a wheel that turns back and forth and you want to know how far it went in either direction. If you look at this article from  National Instruments you will see how the raw decoder works. It is a quadrature decoder with an index. The article below has some diagrams to illustrate how the raw encoder works.

http://www.ni.com/tutorial/7109/en/

now don't let yourself get snowed by the heavy jargon and all the tactical stuff. This type of encoder is pretty straightforward and is used in lot of the INDUSTRIAL designs. Something like that is used inside your typical mouse for the mouse wheel. Now here's the problem. You have to have a counter to count how far forward and how far backwards the wheel has moved. The wheel movement is very precise and exact and it can resolve positions down to a few thousand 7 inch, if you really need to. However, the ordinary wheel mouse has a little indentation and it did cause the wheel to jump in incremental steps and that prevent you from making very precise measurements. You have to accept the stepping acid is unless you want to redesign the wheel.
Now if you decide to go ahead with using the wheel on the mouse, you'll have to begin to some way of decoding the signals that come from the USB cord.
In fact, to make use of the mouse in almost any application you're going to have to have a small computer to count the pulse is from the encoder or else decipher the USB serial data. In other words, you cannot use of real in a simple mechanical counter. You might be better off just designing your own motion detector and calibrating it yourself.
My guess is you want something that's economical, and building it yourself probably would be the best answer. Off the top of my head I don't know of any low-cost method to track the movement of the servo. However, people would build MODEL airplanes and model cars are deep into this SORT of thing and they probably have some ideas about how you can measure servo movement and get the information back in some form.
Off the top of my head that's the best I can do for the moment.
It might help if you could tell what your application is and why you need to have some type of linear measurement tool.I had no idea of the complexity of the subject. Reading the article whose link you sent, I realized that it is subject to grown people, which is not my case ...

In fact, encoders have very affordable price and I decide now buy one to install in the stepper motor controller.  In the end, what I want is to put together a steering system in a toy car

I realize that you UNDERSTAND a lot about those complicated issues ...I was not trying to impress you.
Earlier somebody anted interface amuse and had no idea of how the mouse did communication.
Almost anything noways in son the Internet, just Google it.

https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/jj128406(v=vs.85).aspx
This has a diagram of the three bytes send by plain computer mouse.
The USB port only has two wires for differential  data. (That is to avoid noise pickup). So at least three bytes rate needed for the full communication.
I didn't know until I looked it up.Any way: I'm well impressed about you. Continue to give support to us, please.Will do.

Hello

I have a Packard Bell PC imedia S1800 PC with a faulty CD-DVD drive that I have bought a replacement for from Acer.

Here is a photo attached (Photo 1) of the inside of the PC with one side panel removed (I cannot remove the other side panel because there are no OBVIOUS screws and it holds the motherboard).

The CD-DVD drive is held in a metal holder by two tiny screws (Photo2 attached), but when I remove the screws in this photo and disconnect the two cables attaching the CD-DVD drive to the motherboard, I cannot remove it. Is that because there are other screws on the other panel - which I cannot ACCESS?

I don't know why the CD-DVD drive won't budge - it should push out of the front of the PC, shouldn't it? There is what looks like a small press-down lever at the front of the CD-DVD drive inside the tower (Photo3 attached), but when I hold it down and press the CD-DVD drive forwards from the back of it, it still refuses to move.

What am I doing wrong, please?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]There might be a mechanical lever to pull or push. Plastic front panel should be carefully removed to see if the other side is on a track and locked in on the track.Thanks for your reply.

This lever is a plastic one about the size of a nail on a little finger. It does move down but, as I say, nothing happens.

So I should remove the front casing?. I will give it a try but there are no visible screws there so I am not even sure how it is attached to the rest of the tower.

Thanks again.There should be plastic tabs that grab at the steel case. It will REQUIRE moving the tabs in a way that frees them up from grabbing. Some cases have tabs closest to you are the locking type and the ones furthest away deepest in case are a pivoting type. Otherwise it might be all locking type tabs so carefully free them up to get the front panel off without breaking them.Thanks, Dave

I will undo the case again (probably tomorrow) am d try what you suggest and post back.

Thanks againHere's the disassembly manual
Code: [Select]https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwieo8SysoDPAhUKuxQKHVKrC40QFgglMAI&url=ftp%3A%2F%2Fftp.packardbell.com%2Fpub%2Fitemnr%2Frefdocs02400100%2FIMediaDisManual.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHjSSn3WOp2OvxPBDSUw26Us7N9HQ&sig2=E9D_Ih_8mTu8qNYVVr3y_A&bvm=bv.131783435,d.d24&cad=rja
I suspect you have to remove the front of the case because the pictures show the drive sliding forward.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Hello Plodr

Yes, there is no room in the tower to slide the drive backwards even if the fan were removed.

I have a far better idea now about what to do and the PDF file looks just fine.

Thank you!

90 % of OPTICAL drives exit the front...never the rear.Thanks, Patio!Many thanks to you all.

I managed to remove the old drive and install the new one.

Cheers!Cool ... Hopefully no broken tab that got to the front panel. Sometimes they snap. Losing one isnt critical but losing more than 1 can make the front panel look weird on the case.
The "tab'' in pic 3 is prolly to hold the front plastic on the case. Usually 3. I have SEVERAL cases that I have/had to remove the front in order to remove the drive out the front. Some cases have a 'lever' that front cover removal is required to gain access to. Some have 1 or more screws holding the front to the case.

Even had one that required removing psu to remove drive 'towards the back'.

checkitout

-c-

Hi,

Once and a while, SOMETIMES once a week to 3 times a day, the computer freezes leaving me no choice but to press and HOLD the start button to shut down.  Sometimes when I restart everything works fine until the next feeze.  Then, there are other times when I have to start and shut down a number of times until it finally kicks in and boots up normally.  On the failed start ups, the computer makes the normal noises but it seems to FAIL that final click, the monitor displays the notice that there is no input.  I've checked and double checked the connections.  The video card is about 6 months old.  The computer is a Gateway and is about 5 years old.  Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks.    Hi,

I just got it up and running again after 5 hours and about 30 tries during that time period.  I noticed something that might be a clue.  I had the side cover off and noticed on the successful attempt that the motherboard fan came on when I pressed the switch.  Thanks.Most Gateways have a fan SURGE and the fan ALWAYS comes on when the machine STARTS. The initial fan speed quickly subsides to a reasonable level by the time Windows starts.

My older computer FINALLY bit the dust and won't work.  I am borrowing a computer that came with a Trackball mouse and find it very difficult to use.  I attempted to put my old "regular" mouse on this newer computer and it keeps telling me it won't recognize it.  I checked through the other messages here and it appears to be HOOKED up correctly although it is not color specified like I've seen in some POSTS.  The Trackball is a Logitech mouse while my other one is Gateway/Microsoft.  I switched USB hub ports and it doesn't work in either one.  Can I somehow make my old Gateway mouse compatible with this computer?  Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.If the correct driver for the USB Gateway/Microsft mouse isn't installed on your system, then that particular mouse will not be recognized by the operating system...

Shut down your computer...attach the USB mouse and see if the operating system recognizes it...if it doesn't and you still have the same issue...you will need to download and install  a driver for that USB mouse.  If you are having trouble finding the correct driver...give us as much info on the mouse as possible...model number, etc.

Other wise...try to find another mouse...you can find them cheap...try WalMart.Below is a possible driver. :-?

http://drivers.softpedia.com/progDownload/Wire-Gateway-USB-Driver-Download-17920.html Quote

If the correct driver for the USB Gateway/Microsft mouse isn't installed on your system, then that particular mouse will not be recognized by the operating system...

Shut down your computer...attach the USB mouse and see if the operating system recognizes it...if it doesn't and you still have the same issue...you will need to download and install  a driver for that USB mouse.  If you are having trouble finding the correct driver...give us as much info on the mouse as possible...model number, etc.

Other wise...try to find another mouse...you can find them cheap...try WalMart.

:-? Hi my computer isnt reading burned cds that i burned like a music remix or my data cds that i burned. Please help me!

My computer info
Intel Pentium 4 Processor 2.66 GHz
nvidea gf card
512 mb ram
120 gb hard drive
windows xp professional sp2
DVD + RW / CD-RW MULTI Format Drive
Did you burn the CDs on the same system you are trying to view or PLAY them on?

What burning software did you use to make the music and/or data files?I am using naro for data but for music im doing windows media player 11 and yes im doing it from my computer.baller123.....  Is this issue SOMETHING that has just started ?

Have you tried uninstalling the DVD drive and then reinstalling it ?

Can these burnt cds be read ok on another machine or in another cd/dvd drive on that machine ?

dl65  
how do you find the DRIVER installation?  :-? to install it again? baller123..... go into control panel / system / Hardware tab ...... then click device manager ...... then scroll down to dvd /cd drives and click on the + sign in front of the listing ........ then double click your dvd drive  .....when the drive properties box OPENS... click on the driver tab and then choose whatever option you want.  

Hope this helps you .

dl65  Did you finalize the burn? Has this previously worked? If so, did you do EVERYTHING exactly as you did then?i finalized my burning and than i tried it on my dads laptop and it works but than i try it on mines and nothing pops up at all. Please help. :-?

I just got this case, and says that you can mount 5 drives, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811353026 having a problem seeing where there are SLOTS to put more then TWO harddrivesThere is lots of room.
Three bays are the 5.25 form used for CD/DVD drives. And older HDD.
You can either get a 5.25 HDD or use an adapter.

About $6 from on-line sellers.



The pictures show a drive cage that appears to hold 3 drives.So basically, I would have to get BAY adapters to.  This is what they said on the spec's of there page, Expansion

External 5.25" Drive Bays
    2

Internal 3.5" Drive Bays
    5

Internal 2.5" Drive Bays
    2

Expansion Slots
    7Here is what I saw:

Last year it was said that the 5.25 inch might come back.
http://www.kitguru.net/components/hard-drives/anton-shilov/seagate-5-25-inch-hard-disk-drives-could-return-to-datacentres/
Quote

The amount of data that modern hyper-scale datacentres need to store is already overwhelming and it continues to grow exponentially. In the recent years many hard drive makers introduced multiple ways to increase capacities of storage devices, but things like shingled magnetic recording as well as helium-filled hard drives may not be the only ways to boost HDD capacities. Seagate Technology hints that the industry could return 5.25” hard disk drives to the market, which will dramatically increase per-HDD capacity, something that will be extremely useful for cold data storage applications

Well, I just installed my new Card, http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1776106&Tab=11&NoMapp=0, and it does work, as in my games are faster and work at higher quality video settings, but there seems to be a problem. Alot of my icons are like, pink and distorted and look mixed with other icons, my desktop image looks like what happens when you try minimizing a window when your computer is going really slow (like when you win at solitaire, and the cards are all bouncing around. When I open up my start menu, the whole left side is two icons repeating, and teh right side is a mix of my documents and my pictures icons all staticed up in pink, like a TV with no antennae. In otehr windows, the minimize, MAXIMIZE, and close window buttons aren't there; they are replaced by grey squares. Alot of my icons are even blacked out, like my Everrest home Edition, or just completeley replaced with something that resembles static.. Anyone have any idea what is wrong?

Attached is my Everrest report.

I installed all drivers that came with the card.Have you tried the drivers from Nvidia?


Read the driver installation hints document.

http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_2k_93.71.htmlThat fixed it, thanks!
But now when I try and scroll through a window, it goes really slow <_<
All laggy style.As a side note the install Cd you get packaged
with you new hardware is as old as the hardware
was when packaged.



Do you have internet explorer 7 installed?

The new IE7 can cause this.

Have you tried it with Firefox?

http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/same thing in FF.
It's like it's loading every centimeter of the scroll movement seperatley<_

Do you have the HID drivers for the mouse installed?

Can you try a standard PS/2 mouse=Old Faithful.Hooray
It even does it when the "to protect your pc" and "insatll activex control" bar thingy POPS up at the top of the browser window, under the toolbars O_oDid you read all of my reply#5? I added on to it.
LO 'Frickin' L  We will need to know more about your system - hardware and software.

Did you uninstall your previous video drivers? What kind of graphics adapter was in there?

I think the nVidia drivers are not the big concern. Something else is wrong.I had onboard graphics before, I think it was called something like VIA/SG3 UniChrome or something along those lines.

But, now I notice that when I go to my hardware settings, it doesn't even say that I have an adapter now, ever since I installed the drivers from the link given above...

I also found a new problem: Videos won't play correctly. Some won't play at all. Yup.

Also, when I try and open ONE my games, it SAYS "--- Common Initialization ---
Medal of Honor Spearhead 2.15 win-x86 Mar  4 2003
----- FS_Startup -----
Current search path:
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\mainta\pak5.pk3 (9 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\mainta\pak4.pk3 (59 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\mainta\pak3.pk3 (311 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\mainta\pak2.pk3 (767 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\mainta\pak1.pk3 (6969 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA/mainta
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\main\pak6.pk3 (104 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\main\Pak5.pk3 (259 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\main\Pak4.pk3 (593 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\main\Pak3.pk3 (669 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\main\Pak2.pk3 (4722 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\main\Pak1.pk3 (772 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA\main\Pak0.pk3 (11175 files)
C:\Program Files\EA GAMES\MOHAA/main

----------------------
26409 files in pk3 files
execing default.cfg
execing buildver.cfg
execing menu.cfg
execing newconfig.cfg
execing localize.cfg
Config: unnamedsoldier.cfg
execing configs/unnamedsoldier.cfg
couldn't exec localized.cfg
execing autoexec.cfg
Unknown command "fov"
couldn't exec custom.cfg
...detecting CPU, found AMD w/ 3DNow!

------- Input Initialization -------
Initializing DirectInput...
Couldn't set DI coop level
Falling back to Win32 mouse support...
------- Input Initialization Complete ------- 1294
You are now setup for medium mode.
----- Client Initialization -----
Called FadeSound with: 0.000000
----- Initializing Renderer ----
----- R_Init -----
Initializing OpenGL subsystem
...initializing QGL
...calling LoadLibrary( 'C:\WINDOWS\system32\opengl32.dll' ): succeeded
...setting mode 6: 1024 768 FS
...using colorsbits of 32
...calling CDS: ok
...registered window class
...created [email protected],0 (1024x768)
Initializing OpenGL driver
...getting DC: succeeded
...GLW_ChoosePFD( 32, 32, 0 )
...35 PFDs found
...GLW_ChoosePFD failed
...failed to find an appropriate PIXELFORMAT
...restoring display settings
...WARNING: could not set the given mode (6)
...setting mode 6: 1024 768 FS
...using colorsbits of 16
...calling CDS: ok
...created [email protected],0 (1024x768)
Initializing OpenGL driver
...getting DC: succeeded
...GLW_ChoosePFD( 16, 24, 0 )
...35 PFDs found
...GLW_ChoosePFD failed
...failed to find an appropriate PIXELFORMAT
...restoring display settings
...WARNING: could not set the given mode (3)
...shutting down QGL
...unloading OpenGL DLL
...assuming '3dfxvgl' is a standalone driver
...initializing QGL
...WARNING: missing Glide installation, assuming no 3Dfx available
...shutting down QGL
GLW_StartOpenGL() - could not load OpenGL subsystem

"


So, is something wrong with my drivers?
MY games and videos worked fine with the drivers tat came on the disk with the card, but my only problem was the one STATED in my first post. Once I installed the updated ones, the orignal problem went away and now this.
Can you do a system restore to a point BEFORE you did this and then try again?I wish, but my system restore died long time ago. Just stopped working.This would be an opportune time for a full format and reinstall to solve a LOT of problems, eh?

Do you have a real Windows CD to do this with? Be sure and backup your data files first.Yeah, I have a real windows CD.
But I don't really care for system restore.
And I fixed the problem

It was just the drivers, I had them for the wrong type.

Ty for all the help!Slow Scroll. :-?

I installed another tv tuner so I can watch/record, etc. I tested it to see if I could record two SHOWS at the same time. Although both shows recorded, the audio of one show recorded for both shows.

Do you know how I can GET both shows to record their own audio?

Thanks - Kimberli

Computer info:  
Microsoft Windows XP  
Home Edition, Version 2002, Service Pack 2  
Compaq Presario, INTEL PENTIUM 4, CPU 3.06 GHz, 512 MB of RAM
ASUS TV7133 WDM VIDEO Capture
ASUS WDM TV/FM Tuner
Hauppauge Win TV Go tv tuner

In my computer/ properties my ram shaws as 960mb when it should be 1024mb.
The ram is a single stick of DDR pc3200 1Gig Kinston about 6months old.

Ran memtest and let it do 3runs, it showed no errors but it did show the ram as 960mb as well.
 
Where the heck is that 64 megs??

Is this normal?.First of all, I did a little research into your system and eMachines recommends the following:

DDR (PC 2100)

If you check the specs on your system (below), you'll see the video card uses 64 MB of shared memory.  Missing memory found!

http://www.emachines.com/support/product_support.html?cat=Desktops&subcat=T-Series&model=T2642


Happy Holidays!Your signiture says you have "7600GS VGA." Is this an onboard card? If so, onboard cards "steal/borrow" some of your main system RAM in order to use as their video memory. You can change the amount used in your BIOS. If this is not an onboard card, it sounds to me LIKE you have an onboard card and, even though you are not using it, you have not DISABLED it properly in the BIOS. Quote

Your signiture says you have "7600GS VGA." Is this an onboard card? If so, onboard cards "steal/borrow" some of your main system RAM in order to use as their video memory. You can change the amount used in your BIOS. If this is not an onboard card, it sounds to me like you have an onboard card and, even though you are not using it, you have not disabled it properly in the BIOS.

Thank you

2 gigabytes is 2048 megabytes.

Was than an argeement or sarcasm?

In each step up of terms, there is 2^10 of that unit. So 1 gigabyte is 2^10 megabytes = 1024 megabytes. This is because computer systems are based on binary and not decimal. Whether or not harddrive manufactors and so on listen to this fact is a different matter. That is why harddrives often have less "real" space on them than what is advertised. This is because the companies often advertise them with 1000 units needed for each step (ie 1gb is 1000mb) instead of 1024 units. The uneducated user is then suprised to find his 80gb harddrive, in Windows, is not quite so big.

I have never heard of this ambiguousity with RAM, though, but unless the poster enlightens us with more information about what "exactly 2 gigabytes, no 2048mb, go figure" means, I cannot say much more. Since all RAM is sized using the binary system and not decimal, you would be very hard-pressed to find a stick of 1000/2000mb instead of 1024/2048mb, so I don't use how you could have exactly 2 gigabytes, but not 2048mb.

Sorry let me clarify-
 I was informed that this motherboard (AsRock P4VM800) supports up to 2000Mb and no more, so if two 1gig sticks were to be installed the motherboard would ignore one of the sticks because the 2000mb limit would be exceeded.
Judging by your responses I think someone was feeding me a load of horse sh1t (salesman)


The AsRock website has this this info listed in the PDF manual that seems to support the idea I was mislead.
quote-
Memory: 2 DDR DIMM Slots: DDR1 and DDR2
1 DDR DIMM Slot Supports PC3200 (DDR400), Max. 1GB,
2 DDR DIMM Slots Supports PC2700 (DDR333) /
PC2100 (DDR266), Max. 2GB

I have a Western Digital EXTERNAL (USB) HD I need to REFORMAT, after using Active File Recovery to scrape off what's left on it. (Running XP SP2).

I know there's been debate about which is "better" - FAT32 or NTFS.

Please make your case below for one vs. the other - in "plain" English!

Thanks!FAT32 on Wikipedia
NTFS on Wikipedia
Both articles seem to say a lot about the benefits and drawbacks of each.But I wanted a fight!

ETA:
Thanks, read them, still not sure which is best. Basically, I'm archiving stuff I don't use everyday - BitTorrented TV shows I haven't watched yet, LPs that I've ripped, but I'm also using it as storage for my backups.

I THOUGHT it was FAT32, but when I ran File Recovery on it, it found lots of partitions, some FAT and some NTFS. (Screenshot below)

I just want something stable. It SOUNDS like FAT32 is the way to go, for simplicity, but as each backup rewrites over previous ones, it sounds like it's gonna get really fragmented - and having to defrag my backups sounds like a recipe for disaster, so perhaps NTFS is the way to go...?

Quote

But I wanted a fight!

You have a lot of partitions! What are they all used for?

Personally I would advise you to use NTFS for general purpose. I have never encountered this RAW problem myself, so I cannot say how likely it is to be a problem. Bear in mind that FAT32 has a file size limit of, I think, 2gb (possibly less) which may cause a problem with large backup files. Also, it lacks some of encyrption features of NTFS, if you want to protect your data this way. [highlight]I think NTFS also manages large partitions more efficiently than FAT32, but you'd have to look up this one.[/highlight]

Please note that Windows 98 / ME or lower cannot access NTFS, only FAT. If you will be using any of those operating systems, then FAT is your only option.

As for disk fragmentation, I don't know anything about one getting more fragmented than the other. But if that issue concerns you, and you are not satisfied with the built-in Windows defragmenter, I can recommend Diskeeper Professional Edition.

The ONLY issue that might come up is, lately I have had some trouble with my laptops and have found "Live" Linux discs very very helpful. It sounds like NTFS would be a problem here, right?

I have looked ONLINE extensively but haven't FOUND anything related to this issue. Whenever I play games (any game), five minutes into play the game will freeze for about a minute. Another five minutes later it will repeat the process. Does not matter which game or which settings I am using. My CPU usage goes up to 100% which I haven't noticed happening before, temps have not increased. Memory is at 30-40% usage.

-Checked drivers and updated
-Ran memory tests and checked for memory leaks, returns nothing
-Ran tests on hard drives, no issues
-Checked temps, all normal
-Ran torture tests on CPU, no problems
-Formatted hard drives and reinstalled OS and games to test, problem persisted
-Checked all connections
-Cleaned inside and out thoroughly

CPU, Motherboard, HDD, and RAM are all about 5 years old. Everything else has been replaced within the last year.

Thank you.What model CPU is it?, the rest of the PC specs will be useful ASWELL.
Has this problem just started happening?
do you have any ANTI virus/malware installed on the machine?
list a couple of the games that this happens on aswell.CPU: Intel Core i5-3470

Mobo: MSI MS-7751
(Z77A-GD65)

DRAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3
(CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10)

GPU: EVGA GEFORCE GTX 970 SSC
(04G-P4-3975-KR)

PSU: Corsair CX750
(CP-9020015-NA)

GTA V, Fallout 4, Garry's Mod. Also was doing the same thing to the Steam client and Google Chrome until I did a format and reinstall of everything.Sorry for the double post, I forgot to answer two of your questions in the first post.

1. Yes this is a fresh problem. Has been happening for just over a week.

2. Not currently. I did have and then I formatted my hard drives and did a fresh install of Windows 10.what mem test did you run ? ?Used the diagnostic tool from Windows, MemTest, and swapped my memory with a friends. With his memory in my PC the problem persisted. With my memory in his no problems arose.The problem is with:
GTA V, Fallout 4, Garry's Mod.
So, what might these games have in common.
You are using Windows 10 64 bit. Is that right?

You may wish to do stress tests on the GPU.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2938265/stress-test-software-cpu-gpu-ram-windows.html

Hi! I have a problem - my computer won't turn on and it shows a black screen all the time. It does not show any blinking lights at the FRONT side, nothing. The only things that turns on when I press the power button are DVD RW and COOLER. The computer is a little older, but still was functional until recently.

Configuration:
Zeus motherboard (I can't FIND the series number)
Processor Intel Celeron e3300 2.5 GHz
RAM 3x512 DDR2
Graphic card Leadtek Winfast px9500gt 1 GB 128bit DDR2

Please help!Do any sound come out of the on board tPC speaker?
Do the keyboards lights come on? Can you use caps lock?
The mouse? Does it light up? (If it is an optical mouse.)
What fans come on?
Sounds like the power supplyHave you you sure your monitor is on and working correctly? have you tried plugging another device in to make sure the issue is not your monitor? Quote from: Lorraine walsh on September 26, 2016, 05:48:52 AM

Have you you sure your monitor is on and working correctly? have you tried plugging another device in to make sure the issue is not your monitor?

Do any sound come out of the on board tPC speaker?
Do the keyboards lights come on? Can you use caps lock?
The mouse? Does it light up? (If it is an optical mouse.)
What fans come on?

Borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...you'll know right away if that's the issue.

any 1 no of armari COMP DEALER in usa?pacman ......  I believe that company is located in the UK , and builds their own machine using STANDARD components .......... Exactly what is it that you are trying to do ?


dl65  Contact them and ask. My answer is probably not.

I am pleased to find this site. Looks unique and of course, hopeful. I am sure I will enjoy checking out this site. But now, I am so fried from dealing with this issue, I HOPE I can even type out the right information. I am sleep deprived from dealing with this. Anyway...

I'm not sure at all how I arrived with my audio gone, but I had been trying to remedy a lag problem when playing music with itunes and Rhapsody. I was getting periodic skipping episodes of three to four seconds long. Process explorer showed it as a hardware interrupt problem. So I started tweaking this and that, nothing out of the normal loop. Being the genius I am, system restore was not enabled at the time.

So, Here I am with:
Main Issue: No Sound
Computer: Dell Dimension 8300, XP home
Soundblaster Live! soundcard

Actions taken so far: Uninstalled card, drivers, DL'd and reinstalled installed chipset drivers, audio drivers, card drivers, result = nothing. Made sure bios onboard sound is off and Windows Audio service is enabled. Safe mode device mgr = no conflicts.

Everything looks fine, drivers and card show up in all the right places until you actually want sound, you get errors like no audio device, no mixing device, blah blah blah. For example, when you go to start&GT;control panel>sound and audio devices> it says "no audio device"

I even did a repair install of Windows.

The only time I get ANYTHING from the speakers is when I run dxdiag, I hear the music when testing directmusic.

In fact, google "no audio device" and see hundreds of people descending into manic depression.

For myself, I am barely able to think straight. I am usually able to puzzle out a solution. But this is a hard one.

Thanks for listening.
Quick search reveals that you have a Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy 2 sound card.
Don't KNOW how to fix your problem but I figured it might help the gurus to know the model of the sound card.

Related problems-
http://groups.google.ca/groups?q=+Dell+Dimension+8300+no+sound&hl=en&lr=&sa=X&oi=groups&ct=title

Dell Dimension 8300 with Audigy 2 Problems   ... http://tinyurl.com/hgmpb HARDWARE: Dell Dimension 8300 (3GHz, 1GB ... part of original
desktop purchased from Dell. ... RESULT: No sound via Audigy 2 through speakers ...
alt.sys.pc-clone.dell - Sep 10, 10:28 am by Gary - 17 messages - 7 authors  

Sound on Dell Dimension 8300 (FreeBSD 5.1-RELEASE)   ... the builtin sound card present in Dell Dimension 8300 but cant ... config: Error: device
"sound" is unknown ... multimedia, audio> at device 31.5 (no driver attached ...
lucky.freebsd.questions - Mar 30 2005, 7:30 pm by AMIT Kumar Saha - 5 messages - 3 authors  

Enabling sound on Dell Dimension 8300 (FreeBSD 5.1-RELEASE)   ... the builtin sound card present in Dell Dimension 8300 but cant ... npx0: INT 16 interface
acpi0: on motherboard ... VGA> at device 0.0 (no driver attached ...
lucky.freebsd.questions - Mar 27 2005, 7:08 pm by Amit Kumar Saha - 1 message - 1 author  

Sound on Dell Dimension 8300 - Linux newbie   ... My problem - nobody of my friends is interested in Linux, so there is no help
available. I have got a Dell Desktop, model Dimension 8300. ...
linux.debian.user - Apr 22 2005, 6:30 am by Vegard|drageV - 3 messages - 3 authors  

kern/59098: [sound] Dell Dimension 8300 integrated SoundMAX ...   Synopsis: [sound] Dell Dimension 8300 integrated SoundMAX not working in FreeBSD
5.1 State ... GMT 2005 State-Changed-Why: Closed, since there's no feedback after ...
lucky.freebsd.multimedia - Sep 11 2005, 5:30 pm by Alexander Leidinger - 1 message - 1 author  

I thought i would ask about this other computer i have. It as been out in the building for about a year, and i tryed it again today so i could write down the error. When u turn it on is loads through what ever, and then comes up with this error "[SK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER"?? Any one KNOW how to fix this, and what disk it is talking about?
First THING to do is check of there is a CD in the CD drive or a floppy in the floppy drive.
If so, remove it.
Do you remember what happened before this problem came up?Relevant information about the machine is not just helpful, it is required.

See below. Quote

Relevant information about the machine is not just helpful, it is required.

See below.

:-?

What I was asking is why nvm?

I think nvm summed it up pretty well.

I'm using a motherboard (MSI-7592 G41) and I was using 4 hard disk through it in the past. Two of them started to show problem so, I stop using them for a while. I thought it was the problem of the hard disk. But I checked it on another PC, there were INDEED some problems in them which I fixed with chkdsk command.

Upon further checking out I found it was the cable from the power supply (dont know the name but i have the picture of it below) at fault. So, I replaced them.


Now when I plugg all 4 hard disk on my pc. It is working fine and showing all hard disks but I feel like there is something lagging in my system. SOMETIME it hangs... but most of the time it works fine....

So, my main question is... should i continue using 4 hard disk on my motherboard... will it be ok or not...
Hardware specs of all hardware would be helpful to AVOID guessing what it could be.

Power Supply Make/Model Wattage?
Motherboard ( missing some designator info such as P23 or P26 etc to the part number of MSI-7592 G41)?
RAM?
CPU?
Hard Drive Info
Video CARD(s) info?
Operating System Version?Thanks for the reply

Following are my hardware specs... Hope this will be helpful
PowerSupply: Well it is a normal one with 450 watt I guess
Motherboard: MSI-7592 G41 P26
RAM: DDR3 8 GB (Two Ram with 4 GB each)
CPU: Intel Core 2 DUO E6550 2.33 GHz
Hard Drive: Desktop Internal Hard disk (4 hard disk 2 of them are 500 GB each and one is 1 TB and the other is 2 TB)
Video Card: Nvidia GeForce 210
Operating System: windows 7 professional
Quote

PowerSupply: Well it is a normal one with 450 watt I guess

I know that this laptop, has a side vent to vent out the CPU heat but, there is also, one in the bottom that seems like it's a vent or fan an wasn't sure if it is, alot of the time I have it blocked SINCE, it's SETTING on a surface.Is that you SQUALL ? ?Doesn't SEEM to be a question. And yet another waste of our time. Locked.

Hi everyone. My first post here.
Just going to get right to the point.

I just bought new SPEAKERS (Vertrag speakers from Thonet & Vander) and after plugging them, I've been getting terrible electrical static and lag going on in ALMOST everything I do. Whether it's playing games or watching videos or anything else.
It happens like, periodically and I think it may be due to some electrical interference, as if I have too many things connected or something of the sort.
I'm on Windows 10 and my computer is used for 3d graphics so it's not a bad computer and I also recently got a new graphics card.

I'm also getting wavy lines on one monitor (I've got two monitors and an HD TV in my setup) but this problem is older and I thought my monitor was just getting bad, besides it's a monitor I use very little.

I usually get some bad sounds from the computer shortly after I turn it on which I don't remember happening before. But it stops in a few minutes. Like it's coming from the fan or something.

Now I had three strips of....connections...what do you call them....hubs? As in where you can plug....three or more...different....yeah you know what I mean. Now I had three connected to one wall socket and pretty much everything was there. My computer, one monitor, the TV and something else in the first one, I've got a router, then the box thingy for the high speed internet (whatever you call that as well), got the third monitor, that was I think in the third one.....
I tried switching some things, put two hubs into another wall where my fridge is. Now I've got two for the computer, the first one has the computer, TV and one monitor, the second the router and Internet thingy and the other monitor.

But okay, that's enough. Now....I tried connecting the new speakers into different plugs and found I was getting the least amount of interference by plugging the speakers directly into the wall. It was by far the best but I was still getting the static periodically and lag following. As I play a game it usually happens when I do something, like interact with something, open a drawer and stuff. Shoot my gun. So in that sense it's like it's a problem with the computer but this is very sudden.
At times I've got a very long period of terrible lag that goes on for a minute or two.

I have no idea whether this is my computer acting up but I feel it has to have something to do with the speakers. But there are some strange things....

1. I plugged my old speakers, same problem really.
2. I've plugged my phone into the new speakers, no problems.

This is getting too long, I'll stop now. Any questions just ask. This doesn't make any sense to me so this post is probably really unclear.
But I really, REALLY need help with this.

Thank youthen again.....
I'm running into some common Windows 10 problems I've been GOOGLING. My Disk usage is jumping to 100% and stuff like that and since I wrote the post I've been working on fixing that. Trying to see if anything changed with a reboot. I think I just need some Windows 10 help in general but it's so confusing why I started experiencing this just after I plugged new speakers......nevermind....after googling Windows 10 problems like so often, I got rid of some processes that are apparently notorious for causing problems.
I turned off Win 10 notifications in the Settings > Notifications and Action something and stopped the NVIDIA Backend process. This has been causing havoc for a lot of people and it was the culprit for the insane Disk usage.

After a reboot and trying a game again, everything is running smoothly, not one static instance or lag.
SEEMS to be only a coincidence that it started happening after plugging in new speakers....You must be right.
Elsewhere prole have named that process as the culprit.
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2536614/nvidia-backend-leading-100-cpu-usage.html
Quote

My PC was quite unresponsive earlier so I opened up task manager to check if anything was open that shouldn't be - and I noticed that NVIDIA backend is using extremely high amounts of my CPU. I've tried reinstalling it but it didn't help. Does anyone know what this could be?

Hi everyone, I have an issue with this graphic card in my pc, my display is sony playstation monitor 3D.
Cpu: intel i73770
motherboard: asus p8z77-v deluxe
GPU: Gainward gtx 680 2GB

When I'm in uefi bios, or in ubuntu boot grub for example I have black border on screen, I want to ask if there is any way to edit for example vbios of my cpu to get rid of these black border.
Thank you for helpSounds like its the native resolution of the video card as initialized before driver kicks in a resolution is then changes to greater setting. Curious as to why this is a problem as for grub as long as the boot loader LOADS the OS the problem which to me at least doesnt seem like a problem goes AWAY. Also how often is BIOS play needed. It should be set it and forget it.

I have heard of people flashing BIOS to have a custom splash screen at post etc, but I DONT think your problem is going to be solved by playing in flashing BIOS with any changes. It might be the Playstation Display as the issue. Do you have another display to try to see if problem goes away with different display?I have tried with the asus version of this graphic card thinking that maybe there was some compatibility between bios and this gpu, but no I GOT however black border and with this graphic card on another display I don't have borders, yes I think it's something with the display like overlay and scaling, but I can change these options in display only if I use component cables, there isn't any device that could adjust automatically my hdmi signal? or I was wondering if it's possible to edit vbios, or bios to bypass this setting a custom resolution, I have tried editing bios with hex editor but I can't find where this thing is setted.No idea why a frame in the BIOS screen would be so troubling...how long do you SPEND in there anyways ?I don't spend so much in bios , but in boot selection where I select the os yes and that is ugly to have border

Hi everyone, I have an issue since some years that I have never succeeded to understand on what it depends I have a computer assembled by me with these features:
Processor: Intel i73770
Motherboard: asus P8z77-v deluxe
Ram: 32 GB, corsair CMz32GX3M4X1866C10
GPU: Gainward geforce 680
When I have assembled this pc for some months both windows and ubuntu they was reading 32 GB of ram fully. After some months suddenly it reads 16 GB of ram, from bios also if the rams are 1866 mhz I can take them only maximum to 1600 mhz. I can't understand why I have this issue and how to solve it. I attach to this conversation some screen of cpuz and windows properties.
Thank you for HELPING


So CPU-Z shows all ( 4 ) 8GB sticks installed and initialized, an Ubuntu system properties only shows 16GB. That looks like a BUG maybe in Ubuntu as for if the other 16GB wasnt getting addressed then CPU-Z wouldnt detect them. This is the first I have heard of this. Unfortunately I only have a server with 16GB RAM and none higher to test my hardware against greater than 16GB to see if its a bug that repeats if I installed your version of Ubuntu.

Could you have 16GB of RAM shared elsewhere such as 16GB system RAM shared with the GPU or a RAM Drive, the OS might only be showing whats available to it if its allocated elsewhere?

Have you run MEMTEST86 on the RAM to make sure that all is healthy?

Sounds like CPUz isn't detecting the multiplier...

How does Speccy report it ? ?...or System Info for Windows ? ? Quote from: DaveLembke on September 16, 2016, 06:09:49 AM

So CPU-Z shows all ( 4 ) 8GB sticks installed and initialized, an Ubuntu system properties only shows 16GB. That looks like a bug maybe in Ubuntu as for if the other 16GB wasnt getting addressed then CPU-Z wouldnt detect them. This is the first I have heard of this. Unfortunately I only have a server with 16GB RAM and none higher to test my hardware against greater than 16GB to see if its a bug that repeats if I installed your version of Ubuntu.

Could you have 16GB of RAM shared elsewhere such as 16GB system RAM shared with the GPU or a RAM Drive, the OS might only be showing whats available to it if its allocated elsewhere?

Have you run Memtest86 on the RAM to make sure that all is healthy?

Sounds like CPUz isn't detecting the multiplier...

How does Speccy report it ? ?...or System Info for Windows ? ?

Then if Speccy reports it properly you are fine...

Add them back in, one at a time, in the correct slots, and see what happens.

ever since I bought this computer it just randomly freezes... normally when opening programs it will freeze for 30 seconds and even the audio will go out until the computer unfreezes.... if i'm lucky the whole computer will just restart MAYBE with a blue screen (like holding the power button till turns off and then pressing it again)  will also do this same thing most every time (but not every time) i'm trying to go on the internet but only when loading a new page or refresh in IE, chrome and in Firefox doesn't matter the browser mostly see it with video/audio

this computer uses 16% cpu  and 4GB of ram at idle! I would like to get it working so I can do some music recording!

it's built by a custom pc manufacture/builder and I bought it used from the original owner who never really got to use it from ebay... the COMPANY who built this computer voided any and all warranty when the original owner sold it to me it has great specs so I don't think the specs limit it and make it slow/freeze

some of the specs are

it has an 3rd gen i7-3770 Quad core CPU
16 GB of ram
32GB SSD (where windows 7 is installed) plus 2TB 7200rpm HDD
Intel GraphicsNeed more info such as:

make/model of motherboard
make/model of power supply
make/model of RAM
make/model of SSD and Hard Drive

*Most computers made by builders and sold on ebay cut corners in quality, since most PEOPLE buying off ebay are looking for cheap, and cheap usually means lower quality components or buying other peoples problems. Im assuming that its not a quality build. Maybe the parts listing will prove otherwise. You could have a combination of a cheap unstable power supply with a low quality known for bugs or other flaw motherboard with a older refurb and no name brand SSD with the cheapest value RAM available.

One of my friends use to cut corners with new computer builds buy buying DOA systems off of ebay and yanking the CPU, RAM, and Hard Drive from the systems and scrapping the rest add a $50 motherboard and a $15 case to make it look like new and functional again, and then sell a computer with specs that would cost about $700 for $400 and he only had $150 into it for a nice $250 profit on about 2 hours of labor. The person buying the computer for $400 thought it was all new, but the CPU, Hard Drive, and RAM of a dead main board donor was used and so parts were not all new. Most people wouldnt know any better and assume that all parts are brand new, when in reality the DOA system that parts were used from took a lightning strike to the power supply and main board and so components that work from the DOA box could be stressed going into the new build that is sold with used parts.

the guy I bought it from on ebay didn't build it he bought it from a company that builds them

I'm using CPU-Z and Speccy and won't know exactly what it all has until I take out the 7-10 screws that holds the top on, off but it looks to have :

Asus P8H61-I R2.0 Motherboard

2 sticks of patriot PC3-10700 (667MHz) 8GB

a SanDisk ReadyCache SDSSDRC-032G 32gb SSD and a Seagate 2 TB HHD

and Intel HD Graphics 4000

Is the OS on that SSD?

Feedback found on this drive states:
Quote

Pros: It is cheap, easy to install and boosts performance when it actually works correctly..................(see "cons")

Cons: but most of the time it crashes/freezes your computer or whatever game you are playing. it takes awhile to fill up the cache for a boost but if it gets too full like past 26gb it RESETS and clears the cache. if you restart the machine, you lose the cache. if the UI decides it was not installed correctly out of nowhere it RESETS the cache. if the cache gets too full it will slow down your boot speed also. You are pretty much at the mercy of the horrid software as to whether you cache anything.

Is the RAM on the MBoard QVL list ? ?....what are your Temps like ? ?