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Power went out, when I RESTARTED computer this is the message on my screen
mem freq: 133 mhz
Primary Master: WDC WD400EB-11CPFO 06-04G06
Primary Slave: None
Secondary Master: HL-D7-ST GCE-85 251B 1.01
Secondary Slave: None

When I press F8 - I retain the 1st line only.  My power supply fan & my cpu fan work -

Please HELP!!
The power didnt happen to go out while windows was updating or the harddrive was defragging did it?
Cause that would be really horrible. What OS ? ?hd was not defragging - updating ?? probably not.  The OS is windows xp home edition.  I have it a a computer geek = I'll let you know what is di-ng is. Quote

hd was not defragging - updating ?? probably not.  The OS is windows xp home edition.  [highlight]I have it a a computer geek = I'll let you know what is di-ng is[/highlight].

I apologize if I'm posting in the wrong section, but I recently read something that categorized at least one of the symptoms my system is experiencing as 'almost always hardware related.'  Here's a timeline of sorts...

I came back from vacation, hadn't even turned on my computer in two weeks, hadn't installed any new software/hardware.

-Heard a new "BEEP" upon startup, right before the Windows logo appears
-Noticed that the POST isn't showing up anymore when I first turned it on (when the single beep noise is made)
-Have no sound, and get error messages saying that my soundcard is already in use, even though nothing else is running
-I run spybot, easy registry cleaner, ad-aware, even though my system was running fine last time I used it, but I really don't know much about anything and thought I'd give it a shot.
-System freezes a couple of times
-When I restart it, it won't turn off completely even though I leave it alone for an hour.  Hard drive light stays on even though fan is off.
-I manually turn it off, and when I try to turn it back on, the light turns on yellow (not green like normal) and fan starts, but no booting happens, just sits there.
-The next day it boots up, but STILL has the no sound problem.
-I start getting messages saying that my USB port has a power surge, even though I have no components hooked up to USB ports.
-I buy a new power supply, everything stays the same (no sound/USB error messages).  I replace it since it's an Emachines T4510 and I hear that they use cheap power supplies that can cause motherboard DAMAGE after a couple years.
-I try resetting my BIOS because of something I read (took out the BATTERY).  Didn't change anything other than changing my clock and setting the date to 1601.
-Multiple programs are having to close/experience errors (MediaPlayer/IExplorer).
-I hear that the BEEP is most likely a hardware issue, and make this desperate post, even though it might not even be hardware related.
If you have any idea what it might be, or what else I can try, I'm all ears.  Please help if you think you can point me in the right direction because it seems to be getting worse, and I don't want to screw everything up tinkering where I shouldn't.  Thanks!Im stumped but Ill give your post a free "bump" to get it back uptop.

I'll try my best though
 These points make me think the motherboard may have been damaged by the previous power supply and is working at a crippled capacity.

-Freezes at shutdown and needs to be manually shut off
-Freezes in general
-Start up is a crapshoot sometimes it works other times nothing.
-USB ports malfuctioning, Intergrated soundcard not working
-Limited funtionality of windows


Personally I have been in two situations where the power supply and motherboard had to be replaced, once on my own computer(e-machine T2642, just stopped booting completely) and once on my mother in laws computer (COMPAQ somthing, stopped booting intermitently or would boot to blackscreen occasionally would fully boot but limited function)
In both cases the power supply was replaced but computers continued to display bizzare behavior like you are describing. This was finally remedied by replacing the motherboard as well and reinstalling the operating system. A reinstall of the operating system was tried first on the Compaq as well as a replacement power supply but the problems persisted)

I spent nearly 300 dollars to have a computer shop fix my personal computer IE-install a new motherboard worth 75 dollars, the rest was labour, I installed the power supply myself, after that I quickly learned how to install motherboards myself.
The Compaq computer drove me nearly insane untill I found that throwing money at it made it happy.
I spent 45 on the power supply, 99 on the motherboard and 75 on the new case. Compaq computer cases have PROPRIETARY motherbaord connectors that wont work with standard aftermarket motherboards (oh the frustration). Luckly all the other hardware was OK and could be removed and reinstalled on the new motherboard, I did all the work myself this time.

I had another situation where my computer quit booting altogether, it would just goto a black screen, through troubleshooting I found that my video card had died and the computer would not work with it installed (card was replaced under warranty)

Here's my problem:  image is split with a black border separating the two halves of the image.  But here is the weird part, the RIGHTSIDE of the image is on the left and the leftside of the image is on the right.  I GET this problem when I set the resolution to 800 x 600.  So if someone has answer for me or can at least narrow down my problem to monitor wiggin-out or the video card, it would help me continue my search for the answer.   :-?

Thanks so much for you help!!!  Let me know if you need anymore info.

Window xp
Pent. 4
ViewSonic monitor lcd
nvidia video card
256 mb ram
directx 9

Try a different monitor.I have talked to other people who have had similar PROBLEMS and the video card was the culprit as a replacement card fixed the problem.Why such a low resolution ? ?
The monitor may not support it if it is newer...Wow!  Thanks for the quick responses.  

Sneakers: Trying another monitor is a good idea.  Just need to get access to one.  I'll give that a try.  Thanks.

Stones:  Was their image switched like mine was?  When I went to nvidia website I couldn't even find that problem in the q's & a's.  Just problems with black borders on the sides or top & bottom.  Never in the center with the image halves switched.

Patio: I put it on low resolution to play spider solitaire and have been doing this for the past couple of years with no problem.  That way the cards are bigger and I don't have to sit close to the monitor.  I hated switching the resolution back and forth like that, put tech support for viewsonic said it shouldn't be a problem.  hmmm?

Thanks!"Stones:  Was their image switched like mine was?  When I went to nvidia website I couldn't even find that problem in the q's & a's.  Just problems with black borders on the sides or top & bottom.  Never in the center with the image halves switched."

Hmmm, Go to monitor properties and turn off write combining and disable Verticle sync on the video card.

Another tried and true one is to uninstall the video drivers and install the newest ones from Nvidia.

Lastly, never be afriad to RMA(warranty replace) something so it can be new all over again.Maybe there is a resolution a little higher than the one you are having problems with...

Or you could just play in safemode ... Stone:  I'll give your suggestions a try and let you know the outcome.  Thanks!

Patio:  If all ELSE falls,  that will be plan "B".  Unfortunatley, when I want to play any other game that requires that resolution, it will be disappointing that I can't.  Actually, when I first came across the problem was on the second day of playing Syberia ll (adventure game).  I thought maybe the game was at fault and maybe it did in some way corrupt my video card.  I uninstalled the game.  If I'm not mistaken, I think some games reset the resolution and then return it after shutting the game off?  That's why I think trying Stones idea of reinstalling the video card drivers would be a good idea to start off with.

Thanks!!!What?? I've never seen a monitor that does not support 800x600. It's XP's default resolution for goodness sakes!

I've seen a similar problem before. Hopefully the solution is the same. What happened was, on the horizontal positon setting, if you went too far in one direction, the screen "wrapped" itself onto the otherside. Try adjusting the horizontal setting using the monitor's on screen controls.Neil- I wonder why this problem only shows up when I set the resolution to 800 x 600?  It's only on that setting where it splits & switches the image.  When I set it higher it's fine.  But I'll give it a try.   When it's set it to 800 x 600, I'll try adjusting it to see what happens.

Stone- I tried going to the monitor properties and turning off write combining and disabling Verticle sync on the video card.  It didn't help.     I still need to try the other thing you suggested - reinstalling the video drivers.  I'll work on that tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

Thanks all!  Please keep sending your IDEAS, I want to get back to playing my game as soon as this is fixed.  Just wanted everyone to know this is how I fixed my problem.   I took Neil's advice and went to the monitor controls on the monitor.  First I set my resolution to 800 x 600 to make the image split in half and than I clicked on "auto image adjust" on the monitor.  Bingo!  It corrected the problem!  My guess is the game I was playing messed up the image some how when I closed down the game.   It's suppose to reset my settings automatically when closing, but looks like maybe it didn't quite get it right that time is my guess.

Thanks all!!!Glad to hear you solved it...stop by anytime.

patio.  8-)

I have a wellfunctioning PC with a brandnew asrock motherboard (socket 775) mounted with a 3GHz pentium4 , a 90GB HDD and a NEC 4550 DVD-drive together. Use WinXP SP2.
But after physically connecting a new second (300GB) IDE Maxtor HDD I experience that the boot sequence STOPS! in line 78 right after the bios have recognized the two harddisks ("s.m.a.r.t. enabled and OK". The old (system) HDD is recognized as primary master while the new HDD is primary slave and the DVD is secondary slave).
Same thing (bootsequence stops) happens if I try BOOTING from my WIN XP installationCD.
As soon as I disconnect the new HDD (which is proven to be OK) everything works normal again.
I would appreciate a hint to a solution to this sincere problem (the old HDD is almost full with holiday videos by now...). :-/


Is your first hard drive a western digital? A lot of WD hard drives have a jumper setting for master and another jumper setting for master/alone and yet another for slave.Are you sure you have the right ide cables where they're suppose to be?  Like if you have the dvd on secondary slave what do you have for secondary master?
Plus how have you got the boot sequences in order? Quote

Is your first hard drive a western digital? A lot of WD hard drives have a jumper setting for master and another jumper setting for master/alone and yet another for slave.

Are you sure you have the right ide cables where they're suppose to be?  Like if you have the dvd on secondary slave what do you have for secondary master?
Plus how have you got the boot sequences in order?

Are you sure you have the right ide cables where they're suppose to be?  Like if you have the dvd on secondary slave what do you have for secondary master?
[highlight]Plus how have you got the boot sequences in order?[/highlight]

Quote

Are you sure you have the right ide cables where they're suppose to be?  Like if you have the dvd on secondary slave what do you have for secondary master?
[highlight]Plus how have you got the boot sequences in order?[/highlight]

Is it set in your bios to boot from the right hard drive?

Hi
     I am not very proud of what I did but I received new RAM for x'mas and I decided to install it myself. What stupid of me. I am sure I did it on my old computer, 2 years ago, and it worked fine. Let me tell you the story. O.k I opened the case and ouch there was so much dust that i decided to do some cleaning in there. I bought an air can of spay to clean computers and I air cleaned it. Then I remove the ram from the package and installed it in the slot right beside the other one. Seemed very easy to me. But now when I turned my computer back on, my monitor says no signal and i only hear beaps coming from my computer. My operating system is Windows Xp and the motherboard is p4s533 series.  Can any of you give me some advice please. I am desperate.
KathyRemove the new RAM.

Try to boot your computer again.

Tell US what happens.I tried rebooting and rebooting and rebooting. My monitor keeps saying no signal and nothing happens but beeps on the computer.
KathyThis is an easy problem to fix. Your computer is in it's "Terrible Two's stage". Your mistake was giving it a cleaning and as we all know kids hate baths. SERIOUSLY have you MADE sure that all of your connections are solid? Double check. And if all else fails put your naughty computer in the corner facing the wall. Quote

I tried rebooting and rebooting and rebooting. My monitor keeps saying no signal and nothing happens but beeps on the computer.
Kathy

Hello,

While this problem only happens sometimes, it is quite annoying when it does happen. This happened about a few hours ago. Firstly, when I connected the CPU and started it, the screen just remains blue with a "No Signal" text floating and hovering AROUND it. Usually when this happens I just take out the RAM and slightly clean it, put it back, then it becomes normal again. This time however, that didn't work. So I took out my 512mb RAM STICK (So now, I only have a single 2GB RAM stick remaining), and it worked, I was able to enter the desktop etc...

But then I tried to re-insert the 512mb RAM stick again (After closing it of course). Then, the computer beeped 3 times and I'm stuck with the blue screen with "No Signal" again (Even after taking out the 512mb RAM stick again). After that I tried to start the computer again for several times, usually ending with the blue screen thing and also sometimes the fan along with the computer failing to start (Even after I PRESSED the start button multiple times).

Idk, but by some random chance of luck it finally started, but I'm not entirely sure if the problem will happen again (I'll see if I close the computer again later on...)

Anyway, do you GUYS have a solution for this annoying problem? Do I need to buy a new RAM stick or SOMETHING else?

Thanks in advance...

i have an hard disk of 120GB, when i start to install WINDOWS on it,, it fail,, but when i use it as external hard disk, it function properly,,,pls what can i do,,  i have also use windows 2008xp to re-generate the hard disk,, but still i still can make use of it to install any windows...
pls i will appreciate if someone can be of help to me...Where are you getting these HDD's from ? ?

This is the 3rd HDD now that you have had failing or wouldn't take a Win install...

You also never have answered the question of where your copy of Windows came from...I collected the  HDD Frm a friend, and it was working percfetly when I collected it, but suddenly just develop such problems..
The windows I try to install to it was via CD ROM.What exactly does it say on this Windows CD ? ?pls,, to summarise all,, can i make use of the hard disk as eternal hard disk,,,and hope it will not GIVE me any problems in the future Quote

What exactly does it say on this Windows CD ? ?

pls,, to summarise all,, can i make use of the hard disk as eternal hard disk,,,and hope it will not give me any problems in the future

Hey all,

Because you've been so awesome in answering my computer questions, I had to come back.  This time, it's for my girlfriend.  She's in New York and BOUGHT a Sony webcam for a Dell laptop and the computer is not recognzing it when she plugs it in.  She says that she tried installing it using CONTROL Panel, and still not RECOGNIZING any new hardware.  Any advise?

Thanks!Are you saying aboslutely nothing happens when she connects the webcam to her computer?  Did she follow the instructions, that came with it, for installing it?  Did she install software that came with it?  

With my webcam, the installation instructions say to install the software before connecting the webcam to the computer.  I did so.  Now, when I connect it, I can see it in both My Computer, under Scanners and Cameras, and in Device Manager as an Imaging device.She says that it did not come with a CD; just the webcam itself.If you can post the exact model of that webcam, I'll visit Sony's website and see whether I can find any info.Linkincubus......  Thats odd that the webcam didn't come with any software .

Strange any Sony webcam that I find , all ship with installation cd.

dl65  
Linkincubus, what software does she intend to use it with, one of the messaging programs such as Yahoo! Messenger?  Did she open that software after connecting the webcam?  Does she know how to ACTIVATE a webcam in that software?  Are you using the same messaging program as her?  Are you using a webcam?

And, again: Are you saying aboslutely nothing happens when she connects the webcam to her computer?  Did she follow the instructions, that came with it, for installing it?  Maybe she got screwed and happened to buy a package with a missing installation CD, due to theft.  I don't know.  I'm just telling it like she tells me.  


Her SOLE purpose is to use it for MSN Live Messenger.

"Sony Vaio Visual Communications Camera"This utility installs the originally shipped version of the Sony® Visual Communication Camera Driver Utility for the PCGA-UV10, PCGAUV11, and PCGA-UV11A.

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-download.pl?mdl=VGNUX180P&upd_id=1659&os_id=7

hello!!! im new to these forums and i have an ok knowledge about computers.. im just having some problems with an external hard drive.

 i have a toshiba satellite notebook model # psaa8u.
i bought a fujitsu 2.5" notebook SATA hard disk drive and i PUT it in a metal cartridge so that i could connect it to my computer via usb. i connected the HDD to my computer and windows said my new device was ready to use so i OPEN up my computer and i only SEE my internal hard drive and not the external drive!!
what am i doing wrong??!?!??!?!
I think you need to enable it in Bios.
Not really my area of expertece but- usb/harddrive + not work = somthing in bios is disabled
i think, i could be wrong.IF THAT IS THE PROBLEM....
 
whats bios??? how do i enable it in bios???
if thats not it what else could it be???

thanks !!!BIOS setup. This is usually done by pressing the "del" or "F1" key on startup (F2 on mine).

The thing is that the hard drive your trying to connect is a SATA drive which uses RAID drivers, I use regular IDE drives so I have little experience.

Here is an online to guide to things in bios, look for things concerning SATA and RAID

http://www.techarp.com/freebog.aspxWrong-o.  

Did you format the drive? Until this is done a new drive is not usable. Find the device in My Computer, right click on it and choose Format.

USB drives do not have to be seen in the BIOS to be used. The drivers, etc. are loaded when Windows loads.u mean format the new hard drive i bought, right?  and i do that buy opening my computer, right CLICKING on the drive and clicking on format???  well, its connected via usb and the drive is not showing up on my computer!! what do i do?!?!?!? Quote

Wrong-o.  

Did you format the drive? Until this is done a new drive is not usable. Find the device in My Computer, right click on it and choose Format.

USB drives do not have to be seen in the BIOS to be used. The drivers, etc. are loaded when Windows loads.

Today I was messing around with my old Packard Bell PB2555CD (it has a 486DX2) and I took the PROCESSOR out and I thought I put it in the right way, but when I went to turn it on nothing happened. The hard drive spun up and stuff but nothign appeard on the monitor. so I took the processor out and tried to put it in the right way but apparently it's not keyed. No matter which direction I put it in now it still won't boot. Did I fry something? It's a dinosaur of a computer so it's not that important, but did I wreck it?  :-? Also i tried booting it without the mouse/keyboard connected, and I made sure the monitor was PLUGGED in securely. Thanks!

-JohnYou didn't break or bend any of the pins right?If you put a 486 in wrong it will be destroyed, often with a spark or a puff of smoke. If you are sure you have it in correctly now and the unit does not power on it is toast.That's the problem I can't figure out which way to put it in... and it didn't spark or anything (i don't think).
And no none of the pins are bent. Thanks!
-John

EDIT: I don't DOUBT though that it's wrecked. I'll go play with it for a while and see if I can't get it to work.Look directly at the pins. One corner of the chip itself is DIFFERENT (beveled). Look for that same arrangement on the insertion socket.                          


See the upper right corner ? ?

Now match it to the MBoard.Yeah I had to take the heat sink off to actually see that but still no go... so did I fry the mobo or just the processor (I have a feeling i could get one for dirt cheap on ebay)? Thanks!

-JohnProcessor for sure and probably the motherboard too.  Well i'll probably BUY another processor for $7 and just try it out lol
Thanks!

-John

My computer suddenly slowed and I just changed a new HDD today.The computer LIKE no responding and I shutdown or turn on my computer its slow.Can someone HELP me please I can show picture what happended to my computer.Did you REMEMBER to re-INSTALL all your drivers ? ?
Is this a fresh install or did you clone the DRIVE from the original to this one?My computer is computer shop help me install the window this is second time happended.Last time I just claim the warranty of HDD.Yesterday I just take back my computer the problem happend again....

There is a humming noise coming  from my PC (Lenovo). Have localised it to the hard drive. When I remove the computer from it's desk and stand it on carpet the noise becomes almost inaudible. (Just placing a hand on the tower increases the noise a little.)
What would be my best option(s) at present?
 The noise only becomes annoying after the pc has been on for an HOUR or so, and then just gets louder as time moves on. 

posted by:  jackcar Are you sure it's the HDD ? ? Use a pencil and touch the drive with your ear to the end of the pencil...

If it is what i use are FELT washers between the HDD and case over each mounting SCREW...
Hope you isolate it
Patio...Did y0u just tell the OP he has a loose screw?
I have had a couple of PCs like this... both of them were Shuttle small factor PCs on a steel desk. In each the sound seemed to be because the metal case was resonating ("drumming") from vibrations caused mainly by fans and hard drives. I tried rubber washers under the hard drive mounting screws, and rubber feet under the cases, It could be changed or stopped by moving the case slightly or placing a hand or an object such as a book on top of the case. One was cured by standing it on a sheet of polystyrene foam like you get in delivery boxes. I never did get the other to quieten down, I suspect the CPU fan bearing was starting to wear. Some vans I have seen had 'anti-drum bars' welded to the inner sides of the cargo space to stop the whole thing thrumming at certain engine speeds. Thanks for replies.  Will have a look inside pc tower tomorrow and perhaps try some felt washers and
hard sponge/polystyrene sheet under the tower. Have just turned PC on, noise still there until I removed
it from computer desk and stood it on the floor carpet, which silenced it! Resonance appear's to be a
large part of the problem.
It's not so much the noise I am concerned about, more the cause. If the hdd should pack up I would lose
everything on it. The pc has been running SILENTLY for two years and this problem just started a few days
ago. Is the hdd likely to:  carry on working for some time yet, or pack up suddenly. (probably no answer to this question).   
It is the hard drive, I held pencil to it.




























is
































Here is a suggestion. You can buy an enclosure that has its own power supply. It can hold a drive like the lone in the computer.  Now buy a hard drive . Get one that will fit the enclosure or the  computer.

The plan is to "clone" the drive in the computer onto the one in the external enclosure.  Once you have got a perfect "clone", swap the drives. After that you will have a new drive in the computer and the old drive in the external enclosure.

That should be a good SOLUTION to the problem.
Otherwise, replacing hard drive bearings is not a Do-It-Yourself project.  Geek i've seen perfectly fine new HDD's make noise in poorly designed or budget cases...that's why i suggested trying the physical fixes 1st which cost next to nothing.

Nothing proves his HDD bearings are failing as of yet.Reference:
http://www.computerworld.com/article/2480866/computer-hardware/40-different-sounds-of-failing-hard-drives.html
It stops when he puts the case on a carpet. That says case resonance to me. It could run fine for years.

Greetings everybody. I have a problem with an Windows installation on my tablet which I don't know how to fix but have a feeling it's something obvious which I missed. So here's the story:
 
The problem
I recently bought a Modecom FreeTAB 8010 x86 tablet and it was all fine and dandy for the first few days but eventually I started running out of space on the system drive. I noticed that a huge portion of my internal memory was used up by the recovery partition (almost 6gb). In order to try to make the best use of the already measly 16gb SSD that's inside the tablet, I opened partition wizard from Hiren's boot CD and marked the recovery partition for deletion. Everything was set up and ready to be deleted so I told recovery wizard to restart the system and do the procedure. Windows shut down normally and after a short UEFI boot screen, windows started booting again but this time INSTEAD of the usual 10-15 second boot time, it took it almost 2 minutes and it didn't even boot. After around two minutes it crashed with a BSOD and a message saying: "CRITICAL_SERVICE_FAILED". Note that it probably didn't collect any error info since the screen shows up only for barely 3 seconds after restarting again and going in a bootloop.

Please ignore the purple spots on the image, those are just reflections of something else.
 
How I tried to fix it
I first tried to boot into a live linux pen drive but couldn't since this tablet's motherboard doesn't support BIOS at all, no legacy mode, no nothing - it's UEFI only.
Since it was UEFI only I was searching for an UEFI compatible rescue distro and eventually just burned Ubuntu 14.04 iso to a pen drive. It didn't boot.
In a desperate attempt to even see what was the situation with the disk, I downloaded the untouched Windows 8.1 iso from Microsoft and burned that to a pen drive and suprisingly that worked fine and I managed to enter windows installation. From there I entered the system repair options. Of course none of them helped. It's not necessary to get into detail about this but the first two "system refresh" options didn't work since they required me to boot into recovery from the original working system. Startup recovery didn't do jack and I tried the usual /fixmbr and /rebuildbcd which also didn't work since this is an UEFI based system not BIOS one. NOTE: I checked the disk with diskpart and the original Windows and recovery partitions were still there, everything seemed to be fine. I eventually tried to go into safe mode but it also crashed every time I tried so that option is out. I then remembered that I backed up my recovery partition to a pen drive. "This is my way out!" I thought but it wasn't. Booting into recovery didn't help at all, you can see why in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw64TD0hgls
 
Closure
So this is why I come to you guys. Something has gone wrong but I have no idea why. Reinstalling is pretty much not an option since I wasn't provided with a serial key upon buying this tablet and I don't even know what internal devices it uses so finding the drivers would be a gigantic pain. If I missed some important information about the tablet or the installation please point it out to me and I'll add it. Also you don't need to tell me that deleting the recovery partition was an intensely stupid idea since I later found out myself that Windows used it to store compressed parts of the system on it and deleting it would pretty much render the entire installation useless. Any help on this issue is very appriciated and big thanks to everybody who takes their time to assist me on this issue.It might show no text because its failing to mount the SSD. Everything up to that point is coming from your Thumbdrive. When it then calls out to the SSD there is no response and so no text shown I am guessing. I have seen similar issues to this with some windows installs in the past on desktops when its an older system in which I have missing SATA controller driver etc and so the HDD is completely missing to the OS installation.

At this point if no important data is on it, I'd use a tool to delete all partitions/volumes on the SSD so its completely clean. Then try the thumb drive again to see if it then is able to mount the SSD and install further. 

If this isnt the case with the SSD not responding correctly to the Thumbdrive recovery media then it could be a corrupt recovery media in which you can contact the mfr of the computer tablet to have them send you the recovery media set for free if under warranty or a small fee if out of warranty etc. Quote from: DaveLembke on March 01, 2015, 07:45:50 AM

It might show no text because its failing to mount the SSD. Everything up to that point is coming from your Thumbdrive. When it then calls out to the SSD there is no response and so no text shown I am guessing. I have seen similar issues to this with some windows installs in the past on desktops when its an older system in which I have missing SATA controller driver etc and so the HDD is completely missing to the OS installation.

At this point if no important data is on it, I'd use a tool to delete all partitions/volumes on the SSD so its completely clean. Then try the thumb drive again to see if it then is able to mount the SSD and install further. 

If this isnt the case with the SSD not responding correctly to the Thumbdrive recovery media then it could be a corrupt recovery media in which you can contact the mfr of the computer tablet to have them send you the recovery media set for free if under warranty or a small fee if out of warranty etc.

Hindsight is 20/20...however deleting the Recovery Partition was a bad idea...

I would contact the manuf. and see if they will ship you a Factory Restore DVD...

Usually the DVD's are a small charge...+shipping.

Best of Luck.

I'd say you wonked the partition table itself somehow...did you interrupt the process or lose power when running it ? ?

Th e partition sizes aren't even close to matching up in size...

It'll likely require a wipe and factory restore to get it back...

Add up the sizes in table #1...

Hello.

We don’t share the system image. In this moment we are not able to help.
Please make a complaint to the seller.

Regards,
Technical Support Team, MODECOM S.A.

...I recently bought a Modecom FreeTAB 8010 x86 tablet and it was all fine and dandy for the first few days but eventually I started running out of space on the system drive. I noticed that a huge portion of my internal memory was used up by the recovery partition (almost 6gb). In order to try to make the best use of the already measly 16gb SSD that's inside the tablet, I opened partition wizard from Hiren's boot CD and marked the recovery partition for deletion. ...

I have an Asus T100 Windows tablet.  You made a huge error which is not repairable.  You should have left the Recovery Partition intact.  It's not an SSD, but an eMMC.  No 3rd party utilities can manage these.  Windows 8.1 w/Bing uses Bit Locker which makes things even worse.  Onboard recovery will never work now that you have buggered things up.

I'm afraid you are SOL.  Send it back for warranty repair/replacement.

Hi, I have never had this problem before a few days AGO, when I open some games, most but not all of USB ports disconnect and reconnect, I used to be able to play them without any trouble but now my headset, mouse and keyboard all disconnect and reconnect constantly. Is there a way to fix this?
ThanksHave You Updated your drivers and are you using a usb hub/extension.\

~IpadmastermanI've updated my drivers and don't use a hub/splitterThis could be a sign that your power supply has a weak voltage level. It could dip enough that your system doesnt reboot, but it causes the USB BUS power to dip and drop out.

My suggestion on this is to swap out the power supply with ANOTHER known good power supply. When you play video games, they draw more power, this quick dip in voltage as the load increases can be enough to disconnect the USB BUS power and cause it to regain and connect again after the quick swing in current draw.

Other fact is what do you have connected to your USB?, and any phone charger cords with devices powered off of the USB port charging, as well as PC speakers that are driven off of USB only or anything ELSE that will cause a heavy draw on the USB BUS power... such as coffee cup warmer or Fan or any other unnecessary ACCESSORY drawing power? I have got another higher watt power supply sat in my old PC, should I swap them out and give that a go maybe?  I have a network adapter, USB keyboard and mouse, headset, iPod charger which I typically only use when I'm watching something not playing games, and a PS4 controller charger cable, which I use to play with a controller in certain games and doubles up as a phone charger, but again I don't use it much in games.  Thanks.Try games with just the bare minimum USB items attached. Not to be charging devices at the same time and see what happens. If you have to much on a USB bus you can overload it. A video game running would load down the power supply heavier and cause a dip in the 5 volts. If the case is a cheap case with cheap USB connections to the front PANEL then any devices connected to the front panel could drop out. All devices plugged directly to the motherboards USB connections direct in the back should never drop out. If they do then the power supply is suspect of the cause especially when nothing is loading down the USB bus power by much at the time that a game starts or runs. If its only a specific game that causes this issue then it could be a conflict of some kind, but if more than 1 game gives the same results and you have bare minimum USB devices connected, then I would say the power supply is highly suspect of being the problem here. Its good you have a system to borrow power supply from to test this out.

Hello all


I recently did some upgrades to my Dell OPTIPLEX GX110, I maxed out the processor and RAM (1GHZ P3, 512 MB of RAM) and I have aquired a 3DFuzion GeForce MX4000 128 meg video card to finish it off. On the box it says it requires a power supply that is at least 250 Watts. The supply in my computer is only a 200 Watt. I've used a couple of those online wattage calculators which tell me that even when my hardware is being utilized at 100%, I'm only using 193 Watts. Now, I'm not taking these numbers to heart, I'd rather trust a few good techs than a program that was written by god knows who. So, do I really need a 250 watt power supply? I'd like to upgrade anyway, and found a stock Dell 250 Watt PS that would work in my computer, but I'd like to go a little above that if the vid card says it needs more than 250. I'd be more than happy with a 300 Watt supply, but I'm not sure what will fit in my chassis. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't like throwing caution to the wind especially with brand new hardware I just bought.

Thanks guys,

JonDell PSU's of that vintage were proprietary. Make sure what you get really is compatible. They are also not cheap.

http://www.pcpower.com/products/viewproduct.php?show=S36D

This is what I would recommend.  Not too shabby, guess I'll start saving up my pennies lol


Thanks!I think I'd go ahead and install that card and run it while your saving your pennies.  If your computer CONTINUES to run without any problems with the card installed, I believe you'd be safe in CONCLUDING you do not need to upgrade your PS.  

I just upgraded my PS from 250 Watts to 400 Watts but I used that 250Watt PS since Sept 2002, going through upgrades of processor, MOTHERBOARD, RAM, video, and more.  My system's current configuration:

Athlon XP 2200
512MB PC2100
80GB IDE hard drive, 8MB cache
CD-RW
DVD-ROM
nVidia GeForce4 Ti4200 w/64MB in AGP slot
nVidia GeForce2 MX400 w/64MB in PCI slot (for second monitor)
2 - 17inch CRT monitors
Sound card, Chaintech AV512 (Cmedia 8738-6ch)
BOKA-1050 speakers (3 piece set)
Also have an external hard drive (HD in external enclosure)
1.44MB floppy drive

On 8/28/05, I used The Power Supply Calculator and it indicated my system needs 251 Watts.  But, as you said, this would be true only if all components were being tasked simultaneously, and that is not likely to occur.

I have a keyboard with a fixed rainbow color scheme. Is it possible to take out the LED mesh and buy and solder a different colored mesh? I guess my question is, is there an LED mesh that i can buy and shape to my keyboards dimensions, and if there are, what are they called. Thanks!what model keyboard, and how good are your soldering skills?

Personally if it were me, I'd just find a new keyboard that is whatever color I want it to be which is way easier.

*Only LED changes/mods I have done were way easier such as changing a HP computer front panel LED colors from a double Green LED for power and hard drive from having the same color, and changing hard drive to getting a Yellow LED instead. As well as I removed the Activity LED and added a EXTENSION length of wire to my add on PCI NIC so that I was able to relocate and add a NIC Activity LED in my front panel of my computer so I could see when it was constantly blinking when it shouldnt be to check on whats going on and alert me to a upload or download condition that might be unwanted. And lastly I added a built in 5 port Netgear switch showing from the face front panel of my computer in which I cut the power supply cord to the 12 Volt power supply and soldered the 12V jack for the switch to a male P-connector with a tap to the 12V of the computers internal power supply so make a LAN Party PC in which everyone could CONNECT their CAT 5 cables to the front panel of my rig and up to 4 other people can connect for local Lan parties as well as if more ports are needed for Lan Parties with online gaming 3 other people can get connections with my computer using 1 of the 5 and the connection outboard to internet using the 2nd of 5th connection leaving 3 AVAILABLE.

** Lastly all the rainbow colored devices I have been inside have used a group of 3 LEDs for RGB to blend to make all the colors of the rainbow by varying the intensity of the LEDS combining wavelengths. You might just need to do circuit alteration to have a fixed color if thats what you want without replacing the LEDS which are likely the flat surface mount type which can be easily overheated by soldering iron tip and melted.

 If you want RED, GREEN, or BLUE, you might be able to target the trace that that specific color LED that runs back to the chip, cut that trace and others to the other LEDS, and power only that color LED through a 5 volt redirect through a * 470 ohm resistor, and remove the chip from the equation and make it a fixed color. Keyboard power is likely 5 Volts. Not sure if there will be a resistor in line with the LEDS or not or if the chip itself acted as a lower voltage ( 3 volt ) driver with a 5 volt input or not. *You might need to add a 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in series with the circuit to avoid too much voltage overdriving to the LEDS as for 5 volts will be very bright and will cause them to burn out. 3 Volts is RIGHT around where LEDS light for a longer life which likely exceeds the life of the keyboard. Additionally you will have to be absolutely sure that the keyboards chip for keyboard functions is not severed on the process as well, so you will need to be able to identify the chips in which hopefully the LED driver is isolated from the keyboard communications to make it easy. There is a risk that you kill your keyboard or if you solder up a short you then plug in the USB connection and short your USB connection of your computer by bringing a shorted out keyboard to the USB port. Just saying there are risks with this modification and I wouldnt do it unless you have some knowledge of what your up against and willing to take on the risks.

HI ALL,
I have a problem i need to ask.

i have a lot of scsi based machines in my office.
how do i do a RAW HDD to HDD copy of the HDD ( have a few sun workstations here also need to CLONE)

let say i have a SCSI controller in my pc system what other things i need???
i am using ths scsi card.
http://forums.vr-zone.com/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fstorage.microsemi.com%2Fen-us%2Fsupport%2Fscsi%2Fu320%2Fasc-29320lpe%2F



as in cable what type??
connector conver to ? 50 pim U2W scsi???
68pin???

pls help
i am a SCSI virgin

i need to know how to connect 2x old scsi hdds 50 pin to a 68-pin VHDCI external connector.. what cables and converters do i need?Best method is a drive duplicator. I had to use a drive duplicator to duplicate scsi drives before for operating systems that were unable to have clone software added to.

Its costly, but my employer fetched the bill for this at my last job and it WORKS perfect. It comes with adapters for pin conversions too and cables. BUT its expensive at $495

http://www.digital-loggers.com/sdiprop.html

There are cheaper methods to doing this but more involved and not as guaranteed to work as flawlessly as the duplicator. A linux based system could DD one drive to the other, and on newegg you can get 50 to 68 pin converters etc.
 http://www.digital-loggers.com/sdiprop.html
Quote from: DaveLembke on June 22, 2016, 01:56:54 PM

Best method is a drive duplicator. I had to use a drive duplicator to duplicate scsi drives before for operating systems that were unable to have clone software added to.

Its costly, but my employer fetched the bill for this at my last job and it works perfect. It comes with adapters for pin conversions too and cables. BUT its expensive at $495

http://www.digital-loggers.com/sdiprop.html

There are cheaper methods to doing this but more involved and not as guaranteed to work as flawlessly as the duplicator. A linux based system could DD one drive to the other, and on newegg you can get 50 to 68 pin converters etc.
 http://www.digital-loggers.com/sdiprop.html

would the MK8-939A mobo fit in this gaming case?
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1384989&Sku=A107-3016
i wanna buy it but idk if it has a certain type of "fit it has to have.see i built the computer i have now and i hate the case! its a junker and i get overheats SOMETIMES the problem is that there is 5 fans but no air circulation! just a standard case, and i play some pretty demanding games and things get hot! normal functions my gpu is at like 30 degrees celcius, i cant imagine in bf2!lolbut anyways i need it for the fan space and im thinking about water cooling... what are your opinions?Yes, its ATX an motherboard, so it will fit into an ATX tower.ok thx alot manThere is ONE more option to do
if that comps was working before installing windows
then you can do a System Restore and take the computer one day BACK before installing the windows
what? i allready ahve windows andplay agmes n stuff all the time, why would i do that?Tiger direct SELLS computer cases for a very good price

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?Sort=4&Nav=|c:1509|&Recs=30

Heres one thats FREE after the mail in rebate
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2078846&CatId=0
 Limited time offer on that one so hurry

Can my LAPTOP stream or not. It seems my playback is choppy quite often. I use WOW internet service, wireless. My laptop has AMD E-450 APU with Radeon (tm) Graphics 1.65GHZ.  4.00GB Ram (3.60GB usable)  64 BIT OP Sys. Did and online speed test--ping 35ms, upload speed 5.27mbps. I want to cancel cable and try streaming tv etc. Any help would be very appreciated.If you reduce your playback to a lower resolution such as 360 from 720 or higher you might be able to get rid of the choppiness. But it will make the picture less clear. This will make it easier for a weak APU/CPU/GPU system to run this content.

You have a good amount of bandwidth for internet, but this laptop is weak!

Hello! I use 3 monitors. One of them has picked up a blue tint after ACCIDENTALLY restarting my computer with a keyboard. I tried using the keyboard to try and undo what I did. Nothing. I tried CHANGING VIDEO cables. Nothing. It functions normally and when booting up (when it says no single and you have to WAVE around your mouse a little) Its colours are normal. I even tried in the personalize and the display settings. I cant restart the monitor's settings, that doesn't fix squat, and the settings on the monitor don't do anything either to HELP. My other two monitors work just fine. The tinted blue monitor runs on a VGA cable converted into a DVI-I running into my GTX 970. Any help?Have you checked the cables connection to the computer or monitor/s?If they are not plugged in all the way it can cause the colors to be off.If you have used other cable connections...and the other monitors are fine then it's the monitor...not the vid card...Correct
if it ever isn't connected and says no connections the colours are correct.

I was thinking of CONNECTING most of my units, to my TV to give a large display and do CERTAIN THINGS like gaming, video EDIT, pictures....  thing is that I have wired kvm and looking for one that has a wireless remote that you can click and it changes machine your accessing.  I need it to have vga, usb and a sound connection

Hey everyone, I am truly new on building a gaming PC. Today my wife's COUSIN gave me a NZXT tower and a WD 1TB 32MB cache Harddrive. Nevertheless, I was motivated/determined to build me a affordable gaming computer that will fit my gaming needs. Now mind you, I only want to build this PC with the intention on playing games such as; Medieval:Total War, Rome:Total War, Shogun etc. Now I have compiled a couple of hardware on my AMAZON account and I am looking at under $300 budget. Which is what I wanted. But I am not sure if the hardware are compatible with each other. I tried to do as much research as I could, and read descriptions, but I still feel skeptical on buying the hardware right away. Ok this is the list that I have so far.....

PROCESSOR:   Intel G3258 4 Pentium 3.20 GHz 3M Cache 2 Core Processor (BX80646G3258) by Intel


MEMORY :Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB Kit (2x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM - Black (HX316C10FBK2/8) by Kingston


POWER SUPPLY: EVGA 500 B1 80+ BRONZE, 500W Continuous Power, 3 Year Warranty Power Supply 100-B1-0500-KR by EVGA


GRAPHICS CARD: EVGA GeForce GT 730 2GB GDDR5 64bit DVI/HDMI/VGA Low Profile Graphics Card 02G-P3-3733-KR by EVGA

MOTHERBOARD: MSI Intel H81 LGA 1150 DDR3 USB 3.1 Micro ATX Motherboard (H81M-E34) by MSI

Any help would be truly helpful



OK. This is a draft list - Right?
You have not yet invested anything?
Do you prefer Intel over AMD?
Have any friends of yours ever recommended MSI?
Have you looked at:
GIGABYTE GA-H81M-DS2
Just gainsaying... If you really want the MSI, that's OKYes, this is a draft list of me just looking through AMAZON reviews and trying to put together a solid gaming PC for my budget while also making sure these pieces can run with each other. No, i'm not sure which is better, Intel or AMD? I just happen to come across the MSI motherboard. I can look into the one you sent me. Do you think all of these can run together?Welcome to the forums
A website you may find useful is pcpartpicker.com - they get prices from a variety of retailers, and when you select parts it'll automatically filter out parts that aren't compatible, which is really helpful for a first TIME builder.

I've put together a very rough build for you here - http://pcpartpicker.com/list/dm2bjc
To outline the differences:
The GTX 950 is significantly more powerful than the GT 730, which isn't really suitable for a gaming card.
The CPU and chipset are newer, meaning I've chosen DDR4 RAM as the board in "my" build doesn't take DDR3.
I generally avoid MSI boards where possible due to previous bad experiences.

Where would I improve my selection?  I'd really TRY and squeeze in an SSD if at all possible as it'll make a huge difference compared to a HDD.  Other than that I'm not sure where I could make any cost effective little upgrades as the next in line Intel CPU worth buying adds quite a bit to the cost, but it's an option for the future perhaps as you could easily drop in an i3, i5, or even an i7.
It may be worth exploring an AMD-based option although that leaves you with less of an upgrade path - I don't have much time to check into that right now but I'm sure camerongray will be along shortly to offer some thoughts on this and probably improvements to my very quick thrown-together build above

Have old Dell laptop.  Work with Lightroom 5 and Elements 14.  I'm retired living on fixed income.  Not professional photographer but am good.  Have about 650 -$700 DOLLARS to spend.  Research kind of shows ASUS to be popular system.  I need 64bit, 8gig ram minimum, ips or crt display, I hope dedicated GRAPHICS card and anything ELSE you may think of (I'm sure I forgot something)  Current computer very slow and hangs up from time to time.  Is there a big difference between a dedicated graphics card and integrated.  That seems to make a big difference in cost.

Thank You

SnowcapYou will get better graphics performance in the higher end video card vs integrated video, however if your only editing photos and never videos etc, integrated is probably plenty especially if going with Intel CPU system that has an APU where the GPU is part of the CPU of a Core i3, i5, i7 etc. If your going with AMD system to cut costs you would want to have a graphics card vs integrated.

64-bit and 8GB RAM is just about the standard of todays new computers. Just check the stats to make sure it had 8GB or more. There are still some systems for sale with 4GB RAM which you could accidentally buy if you dont catch that its 4GB and not 8GB. Especially in lower cost computer.

Are you having to buy a IPS or CRT or do you already own this hardware?

Your budget works fine for a decent computer if not having to buy other hardware or software. A nice Intel system can be bought with $700 USD.

Are you interested in a Desktop at all or strictly only laptops? You can get more for your money in a desktop system for processing power/cost ratio.First, thanks for replying.  I do appreciate it.  I will be going with a laptop and don't have a stand alone monitor.  The reason I would like a CRT or IPS display is everything I read indicates I'll get much truer colors.  I know some of my photos can be improved if I can feel like I'm getting the colors, or close to it, of what I saw when photos were taken.

Again, thank you very muchNot sure if you ever seen a Color Calibrator before, but at a prior IT job I had to support graphic artists and one of them needed to know that what they see on their display is what their pictures will look like with correct color tones etc. I got then a spyder color calibrator and it made what they see on their computer display be exactly what others would see as high quality and color perfect pictures. You might be able to get by with the laptops display and just calibrating it to be correct. Here is more info: http://spyder.datacolor.com/display-calibration/?gclid=CJyRo_PPzc0CFUxZhgod-VUNZA

Your budget is pretty tight now that you need a laptop + other hardware. Would you be able to get by with a laptop and then a spyder calibrator maybe or do you need a larger display and thats why you want a CRT or IPS?Not sure if I EXPLAINED myself with the initial ENTRY so my apologies.  I don't feel like I need a separate monitor and hopefully can do a very good job with just the laptop.  I'm aware of the calibration thing though I have never done.  Did research on but didn't think I'd be able to do the calibration.  So to answer the last response I will be getting laptop only, no other hardware.  I think I'm now leaning towards an integrated card with the additional research I have completed.

Any suggestions you might be willing to provide re: a laptop would be greatly appreciated.  And again, thank you to everyone who has been attempting to help me.

I have a Dell studio xps desktop and it won't turn on until i unplug and replug it.When I do plug it back in it goes on by itself WITHOUT me having to push the power button.How long has it been doing this ? ?...was it normal before this ? ?...
 If so...Sounds like the power switch has failed...
Has the PC been moved recently BTW ?I was barely GIVEN this pc so I can't say.When I first started using it would shut off .I took off the side PANEL to let it get proper VENTILATION and it hasn't shut off on me since.One other thing I held down the power button to do a hard shut down and it didn't turn off.Either the front panel header power CONNECTER has come loose or the power switch is dead...I tried the power button right now and it worked but I don't know how long it will last.Me either.

Sometime soon, I hope, I will have enough cash to build myself a new PC. I have never used a modular PSU. For my needs, a 600 to 750 watts would be PLENTY. But why or why not get a modular PSU? 

Has there been a consensus on this topic already?  If so, Which and Why?
Just asking...  The main advantage for modular is cable control and cooling...

With modular you only connect the ONES you need...FREEING up unneccessary clutter in the case which leads to better ambient cooling...That sounds good to me. Cable cable  annoys me and I want to keep my PC cool. Yes, I know that studies have shown that the ambient HEAT thing is not all so important. Still, I like it cool because the fans will make less noise.
So, I will go modular.   

Hi all

My computer randomly crashed, and when started it back up, there was random green columns in the graphics and when the actual WINDOWS desktop appeared the graphics were pretty shot, I can open it in windows safe mode but it's not great there either.

I did a system restore and it's the same so I now know it's most likely a graphics card problem

Can anyone confirm if they've had this problem or if they think it's certainly a graphics card problem ... if so I'll buy a new graphics card but I don't want to do that until I'm sure. 

Thanks

IanIt certainly sounds as though the display adapter is the problem. Just make sure you purchase one from a company that will accept returns.You could always borrow 1 from a friend and swap it in there...So, I use a Digital DVI adapter on this, are you saying that if I replace this wire/adapter it could answer my problem?

IanMore info on your setup...we've gone from diagnosing a vid card to speculating on a DVI adapter...Sorry I'm not the best on this, hence why I want to GET it RIGHT before spending - I'm happy to spend though and it seems to be like it is a card problem

This is my current spec

Processor (CPU) Intel® CoreTMi7 Quad Core Processor i7-3770 (3.4GHz) 8MB Cache

Motherboard ASUS® P8Z77-V LX: USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs, ATI®CrossFireX

Memory (RAM) 8GB SAMSUNG DUAL-DDR3 1333MHz (2 X 4GB)

Graphics Card 2GB AMD RADEONTM HD7850 - DVI,HDMI,2 mDP - DX® 11, Eyefinity 4

Memory - 1st Hard Disk 750GB WD CAVIAR BLACK WD7502AAEX, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64MB CACHE

1st DVD/BLU-RAY Drive 24x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER ±R/±RW/RAM

Memory Card Reader INTERNAL 52 IN 1 CARD READER (XD, MS, CF, SD, etc) + 1 x USB 2.0

Power Supply 450W Quiet 80 PLUS Dual Rail PSU + 120mm Case Fan

Processor Cooling INTEL SOCKET LGA1155 STANDARD CPU COOLER
See my Post above...borrow a known good vid card and swap it in there to test...

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my other desktop tower's video graphics card. It seems to have malfunctioned. It is fairly old, being an XPS 630i. The main problem is: the video graphics card that is inside it is VERY loud, and sounds like a lawnmower. It never stops, and is really disturbing. I also enjoy playing games, but whenever I play on it, the screen eventually turns black. I can't restore any type of video unless I restart the computer, which quickly, (when running games only) will shut off. Can anyone tell me if my video graphics card is the problem? or if it is anything else? My video graphics card is a Nvidia Geforce GTS 240. I have attached the computer specs. Feel free to ask any QUESTIONS for clarifications.


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space] Quote from: honeybadgr on June 16, 2016, 05:34:49 PM

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my other desktop tower's video graphics card. It seems to have malfunctioned. It is fairly old, being an XPS 630i. The main problem is: the video graphics card that is inside it is VERY loud, and sounds like a lawnmower. It never stops, and is really disturbing. I also enjoy playing games, but whenever I play on it, the screen eventually turns black. I can't restore any type of video unless I restart the computer, which quickly, (when running games only) will shut off. Can anyone tell me if my video graphics card is the problem? or if it is anything else? My video graphics card is a Nvidia Geforce GTS 240. I have attached the computer specs. Feel free to ask any questions for clarifications.

Most likely the heatsink is caked with dust. My 9800GT had the same issue.

If you plug the adapter into the wall before you plug it into the computer, you won't have to worry about the sparks.

Its best to plug the power supply plug to the laptop first and then plug the power supply into the outlet. The arcs and sparks when reversing the order can pit the connections in the power jack and eventually ruin the power jack.

Hi Dave. Regarding your statement above, can you please point me to some documentation? I'm not questioning your claim, but I've always done it the other way and recommend that others also do the same. If I've been wrong all these years I'd love to be able to read something verifying that. Thanks

As far as leaving it plugged in all the time, this can lead to another problem in which the laptop battery is always charged and never goes through a drain/charge cycle and so the battery life for the laptop can be lessened as the battery dies prematurely.

You may use either Helium or Nitrogen as Dielectric gas.
To reduce the sparking, take the  laptop and power adapter into a small room. like a broom closet. Fill the closet with nitrogen gas. About one pound of gas should be enough. Then you can plug in the device in any order and not worry about sparking.
But giving this some thought, there must be a better way. I don't think that is what other people do.

My motherboard sometimes halts upon boot-up with varying LEDs on... (P8P67 Pro Rev 1.01)

The motherboard has LED lights for GPU/CPU/RAM/Boot Devices and sometimes when i Power on PC it halts with one of these LEDs staying on. I'm guessing it is a motherboard issue because of the VARIETY and randomness of LEDs that it stops on.

Could my board be faulty? Does anyone know of a way of testing this with some software INSTEAD of having to take out bits etc?

cheersIt could be, power supply, motherboard, or RAM.

I'd check motherboard and look for any leaking or swollen capacitors. Next I'd check the voltage levels of the power supply or swap out the power supply and SEE if that fixes the issue.  Boot the system off of memtest86 and run memory testing to make sure the RAM is healthy as well.

Most of the TIME its the power supply, however it could be a capacitor or other motherboard issue. Most RAM issues at boot will give a POST ERROR beep code. If it makes it past POST boot it will cause the OS to malfunction etc.The LED lighting sequences are listed in your MBoard mManual...that should narrow it down.

I just recently, put in a new video card around early this year.  The fans don't spin up on the card and seems like my second drive, drops off alot.  I have about a 600 watt psu in all ready, this is kind of a newer build and is AM3+ if I recall.  I will have to get all the spec's later cause, I don't recall which, nvidia card I have.We need to know the full model of PSU along with what video card you have.  Does the card still work despite the fans not spinning? Do the fans maybe start spinning if you start a game?  Many modern cards will turn the fans off if the card is running cool to reduce noise so this could be the reason that they aren't spinning.It's a diablo tek 600 watt psu, and a Nvidia PNY GTX 950

The card is rather hot when you touch the metal heat sink.  I also, have other fans in the system; side, back, cpu and the one on the psu has failed likely.DiabloTek PSUs are junk, you should replace it with one from a reputable brand such as CORSAIR, XFX, Seasonic.etc.

Notice what I said to you when you asked about buying the video card  :
Quote from: camerongray on January 17, 2016, 03:22:19 AM

Don't even think about using that, DiabloTek are horiffic cheap PSUs, there is no way the one you have can sustain 600w.  Please don't even be tempted to try it, it will almost certainly fail and its likely to damage other components when it does.  You will need to replace your PSU with one from a reputable brand such as this: HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-207-030.

DiabloTek PSUs are junk, you should replace it with one from a reputable brand such as Corsair, XFX, Seasonic.etc.

Notice what I said to you when you asked about buying the video card  :

Camerongray, do you have a short list of  favorite power supplies? 

Hi, thanks anyone who took a look and took time to actually reply, I've been at odd ends for the past week or so looking for solutions to these questions.

Question 1:

So, first I would just like to give  a brief summary of this one, my pc used to run on a graphics card (AMD Raedon HD 4550 500M 512MB DDR2 PCI-E) I used a HDMI wire to a 40inch TV, worked perfectly fine, however it didn't run the games I wanted so I decided to get a new one, turns out my friend was upgrading so I got his one a (Radeon HD 5750 700M 1GB DDR5 DP PCI-E) tried setting it up, however it needed a (PCI Express Graphics Card Power Cable) which I went out and bought, so I plugged it in, started running, I went to go look for the driver and it turned out the driver for this specific one is classed a a Legacy, it also said when I used the AMDs Auto Detect that I was running the lastest for the graphics card I had in which I specified, worked wonders, except that the next day when I tried to start up my pc, it booted up whoever it was left ona  black screen, nothing else, I COULD tap the power button and it would shut off instantly.

I tried using the old Graphics card I previously used and it did the exact same thing, so question is, did I install something wrong or is it the PSU? (Delta Electronic INC Model: DPS-300 pb-3 B REV: 00F Max Power 300W) MotherBoard: Asus P8H61-MX R2.0

Sorry if that made no sense, if needed please ask anything and I will try to answer to the best of my abilities.

Question 2:

If you read above, you will see that I aqquired a Radeon HD 5750 which needs a supply to the PSU with a (PCI Express Graphics Card Power Cable) I do have another computer however which I use for work since it didn't have the ram nor the GPU to run most games, when I went to look for the 2 white things (I don't know the names) which are on the wires which come from the PSU to everything else, there was none.

Am I able to switch them around from my old one or do I need to buy a brand new PSU?

Work PC PSU (Model HP-D3006A0 Max Output Power 300w

Question 3:

So, I have been making a list for stuff to buy a completely new computer, I planned to give the old one to my brother once it works, I just need advice on the parts I've chosen, if it works with each other or if it's actually any good at all, I have a budget of £2000/2594.30$/2341.95Euro
P.s This is only the Tower, I have MONITORS, keyboards ect. also I don't plan to buy a case due to the fact that I'm building a desk which will house this computer (I'm a Carpenter)

MotherBoard: Asus Maximus VIII Formula - Intel LGA1151 Z170 Skylake ATX Motherboard
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A9GK4EQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K Processor (4 GHz, 4 Core, 8 Threads, 8 MB cache, LGA1151 Socket Box)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B010T6DQTQ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A4URWWO54J2JE

GPU: MSI GTX 980TI Gaming Graphics Card (6 GB, 1178 MHZ, 384 Bit, HDMI, DVI-I 3*DP, PCI-E 3.0)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ZPEAFXI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3IRU7Q642HWMA

PSU: EVGA Super NOVA 850W PC Power Supply - Gold
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IKDETOC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AUCPBF2P18HS

SSD (Will have the OS on it): Samsung 950 PRO NVMe M.2 256 GB Solid State Drive - Black
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015SOI392/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

SSD (Main storage device): Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB 2.5 inch Solid State Drive
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P73B1E4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

RAM: G Skill Ripjaws 4 F4-2666C15Q-32GRR 32GB Kit DDR4-2666 MHz Unbuffered Non-ECC Memory Modules with Heatspreader
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00N1OZGRE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2L0BWQIJ8TRXK

Water Cooling: RayStorm Pro D5 Photon RX360 WaterCooling Kit
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-raystorm-pro-d5-photon-rx360-watercooling-kit-wc-40m-xs.html

With the water cooling I was wondering if there were ways to attach it on to other items other than the GPU, maybe the CPU?

FANS: (Suggestions?)

Sorry if this is too much, thanks to anyone who actually decided to read or even look,  if I made any mistakes about adding stuff to this thread please do mention it and I will change once I can.

I want to burn a program into flash memory(PSD4256G6V).I have to download the program via parallel port LPT1 but the port is not recognising the hardware connected to it.I want to CHECK the hardware KIT connected to PC.But to do this I REQUIRE to know how a PC detects any hardware device connected to PC parallel port. Please tell me this.
                                                    Thanks.bharatindana ......  Perhaps a couple of stupid questions .....but :

Quote

I have to download the program via parallel port LPT1

Hi, I have an Asus Laptop with a built in voice recorder. I used it for the first timein a while today and it was REALLY fuzzy; playback sounded LIKE I was on the receiving end of a really bad radio. I plugged in my microphone to SEE if that worked, but that's really jittery and you also can't make out what I'm saying.

Anyone have any ideas? I just sent my laptop off to get repaired, I don't want to have to again. It does have about 2 weeks of warranty left, though. :S Quote

[highlight]I just sent my laptop off to get repaired[/highlight], I don't want to have to again. It does have about 2 weeks of warranty left, though. :S

Hello guys,

Whenever I play a computer game (Heroes of the Storm, Diablo III, WoW) my framerate drops very low and when I open my task manager it says my CPU is at 90 - 100%. Previously I never had trouble with this but since two days I can't play any game anymore due to the low framerates and sometimes even the freezing of my screen.

I have tried scanning my PC with G DATA antivirus already but nothing was found (antivirus was up to date).

Does anyone have suggestions on how to tackle this problem?

Thanks in advance,

Escoruwhich process is spiking?It goes to 100% and then drops to 60 - 70% I mean, and that process repeatsIn Task Manager, go to the processes tab and sort on the cpu column with highest usage at the top (click on "cpu" twice). Which process is using the cycles when it spikes?I tried it with a game running and then the game (Heroes of the Storm) is on top and using the cycles as it spikes (I also tried it with other games and it gives the same effect)You will want to select to "SHOW processes from all users" in task manager also otherwise you could have something running and wont see it listed. Then sort the CPU column so that the most CPU intensive programs are at top of list.

additionally if you have something else running that is starving the games of CPU processing power you should see something running even with games not running.

QUOTE

* One thing to MENTION also is that if you have any addons running for these games, shut the addons off and see if that helps. I have had addons for WORLD of Warcraft such as Recount, Altoholic, and Carbonite go sour on me and cause lag and heavy CPU use only when the games are playing. The fix is generally to get a newer version of the addon through curse or just disable the addon until a newer addon is available to pair up to whichever patch version the game is at.

I was attaching a drive, with all my movies, shows and game + add on's to a new unit that I was making for multimedia when I broke off the part that secures the power sata to the board.  I bought a replacement drive and switched the boards only it's showing a small portion of the drive and clicks slightly as well. 

Seagate Barracuda 7200 1.5 TB 7200RPM SATA 3Gb/s 32MB Cache 3.5 Inch Internal Hard Drive ST31500341AS-Bare Drive Swapping the boards is only part of the process. You need to make sure the rev of the board and firmware is exact for both drives controller boards ... Do they match?shouldn't they  , how do I tell that.  You will need to look at the silk screen on the PCB or for a sticker affixed to it that says Revision information. The Firmware version is sometimes easy to identify with a label on the top of the ROM chip, other times you need to use a tool to call the S.M.A.R.T data to see this INFO polled from the ROM chip.

If your running Windows 8 or newer you can use this: http://www.windowsnetworking.com/kbase/WindowsTips/WindowsServer2012/AdminTips/Admin/find-disk-firmware-versions-using-powershell.html

BUT you would need to have the system running off of a healthy drive to run this and then CONNECT to the troubled drive as a slave. Also not sure if a drive with clunk of death will WORK for this or not since it wont be mounted by the OS.

From the link above:
Quote

Question: You need to check firmware versions on the disks of your Windows Server 2012 and Windows 8 computers (and above). How can you do this?

Answer: Use the Get-Disk function that is available beginning with Windows 8 and Windows Server 2012. Select the friendly name and the firmware version. This command appears here:

get-disk | select friendlyname, firmwareversion

An idea. In thinking about this it would have been better to try to repair the old boards before buying a new one. Because the same. Replacing the power or data connector on a Jetta connection is not as hard as one might think. For what it's worth here is a video about how to replace a broken SATA connector
How to repair a broken SATA connector YouTube

An idea. In thinking about this it would have been better to try to repair the old boards before buying a new one.

In computing, eSATAp (also known as Power over eSATA, Power eSATA, eSATA/USB Combo, eSATA USB Hybrid Port/EUHP) is a combination connection for external storage devices. An eSATA or USB device can be plugged into an eSATAp port. The socket has keyed cutouts for both types of device to ensure that a connector can only be plugged in the right way.

Hi I need your help, I hope you can give me a hand to fix my printer since canon support was not able to. I  removed the printhead from my canon mg7520 to flush it and after I put it back my printer started printing letters, bars and grids wrong I have attached a pdf copy of my printer´s "print nozzles test pattern" so you can see what the problem is. Bellow are the steps I TOOK to remove the print head I know step 5 is the cause because I did a test page before and the letters and grid printed OK.
 
 
1.- Dida a print nozzle check pattern (printed 100% clear and sharp but colors where missing/clogged)
2.- Open the display door of my printer, waited for the printhead/inktanks cart to move to the center
3.- Removed the ink tanks
4.- Open the small black door with the white CANON logo
5.- Hand push the headprint/inktank cart to the right just enough to be able to pull the lock to free the print head.
6.- Flushed the printhead
7.- Did al reverse steps to put it back together
8.- Printed a nozzle check pattern all black and color where back working but letters and grid got fuzzy,distorted, misalligned.
(Printer was ON all the time all the steps)
 
Best regards
 
 

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Have you considered buying a new print head?

Also comma what would it cost to send it back 2 the MANUFACTURER?

As a last resort, what would it cost you to buy replacement printer?

Here is why I am asking you questions. Mini mini printers nowadays or very low-cost and for most people do all the work you could possibly needThis is a $200 level photo printer. I see the OP also posted on a Canon support forum (later than here) and has already got some sensible-looking advice. Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 02, 2016, 03:46:13 PM

Have you considered buying a new print head?

Also comma what would it cost to send it back 2 the manufacturer?

As a last resort, what would it cost you to buy replacement printer?

Here is why I am asking you questions. Mini mini printers nowadays or very low-cost and for most people do all the work you could possibly need

I have come to believe that living inside the machine is a tiny demon whose sole purpose is to torture me with paper jams and failed wireless connections. When things are working, it chugs my $50 ink like it’s an open bar. So, yes, I repeatedly think about taking a baseball bat to the possessed plastic contraption.

Hi all, I have been looking for a suitable laptop for university and college within a budget limit of (around) £300. I want a laptop that is fairly small, lightweight and has thin screen. I looked at HP laptops considering they were mostly used in the summer school I am currently attending and found HP Pavillion 15 15"6 and HP Pavillion x2 10"1. Now, I am wondering which laptop is better? More suitable for university/college? Please suggests some laptops as well!  £300 isn't really much, you'll get something but it won't be great.  What do you need to use it for, are you going to be carrying it about to classes/lectures.etc?  I just graduated (Computer Science so laptop got used very heavily!) and found that I needed something with GOOD battery life and that is relatively small and most importantly, robust enough to survive being carried around all day.

With a budget like that I'd STRONGLY suggest looking at a used/refurbished business grade laptop from the last couple of years.  These machines were very expensive new (around the £1000 mark) so you get the build quality and reliability of a very expensive machine but since large companies tend to replace machines regularly, they are widely available on eBay for under £300!  Something like the Dell Latitude e7440/Lenovo ThinkPad T440s (what I used during most of my time at University) which are both 14" machines or if you want something smaller you could take a look at the Dell Latitude E7240 or Lenovo ThinkPad x240 which are 12.5" machines.  All of these can be easily picked up on eBay for less than £300. They are a couple of years old but still very powerful (more powerful than anything you would get new for £300). These machines are generally used by large companies who replace their machines on a regular basis so there's loads of them available for very cheap currently.  I'd also strongly recommend getting one with an SSD rather than a traditional hard drive as it will be so much faster and more rugged.

Nowadays the difference in build quality between business and consumer and business oriented machines is massive - I'd never buy a consumer-oriented PC like an HP PAVILION, Dell Inspiron.etc these days!  The quality of consumer hardware is generally getting worse and worse as prices drop, the business hardware has largely remained untouched.I respectfully disagree. Consumer products comma especially electronic products comma or I know of much better quality then they were many years ago. Granted, there have been many problems in the industry .Comma... Quote from: Geek-9pm on June 30, 2016, 03:55:18 PM

I respectfully disagree. Consumer products, especially electronic products, are of much better quality then they were many years ago. Granted, there have been many problems in the industry .

Comma...ain't gonna happen...

As camerongray says though, a refurbished business unit in the Dell Latitude, Lenovo Thinkpad or HP Elitebook ranges would probably be a better bet overall due to the much better build quality.

it would be best to ask somebody at the University what is the most popular and most recommended computer configuration.

And I would not recommend a Microsoft Surface Pro to anybody for any reason. Although I don't mind looking at 1 and touching one but I would never buy one or recommend somebody by 1.

I believe the most important consideration that a freshman has is to have a balanced view of his economic possibilities. There may come up situations where cash is needed for an emergency. Over investing in inexpensive computer would be a poor choice.

In fact I believe that for most freshman courses a computer is not even required.

I am thinking about upgrading my GPU. my budget is about 327 dollars. i Want a GPU that will not be bottlenecked by my amd fx-6300 that much. i am currently thinking about the GeForce GTX 970
and the R9 380, or different ones. I want to get good and decent performance in gaming. Games like Csgo, RUST and Gta 5. What should i buy.depends on your PSU. The new Radeon RX 480 performs better than the 380, and fits better into your budget than a 970, if your running a 1080P monitor and want to run these games on MEDIUM to high the 480 would be my choice, the CPU shouldn't bottleneck,but i'm not 100% sure.

Hello everybody
 
First of all, my laptop is the Asus VivoBook S551LB-CJ025H - specs on this link:
 
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Asus-VivoBook-S551LB-CJ025H.102161.0.html
 
I updated it to Windows 10 on July, 2015, and I'm pretty sure the update has at least *something* to do with my issue.
 
I play a few games in it and back in October I started to have a sudden FPS drop. After evaluating the problem, I noticed there was a exclamation mark ( ! ) next to my video card - NVIDIA 740m. My SYSTEM was using the onboard GPU Intel HD Graphics (or something like that), thus the low FPS. The dedicated GPU status contained the following error:
 
"Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)"
 
After a few trials with "solutions" I FOUND on the internet, installing, uninstalling, replacing drivers, restarting, DDU removal tool, disabling Windows Update, etc, etc, suddenly my video card was OK and my FPS was back to normal on my games. Please note I have no clue what the exact solution was. It got fixed after dozens of system restores, rebooting, etc, so I'm really not sure what step I did that fixed it.
 
The problem is that lately I've experienced the same FPS drop, and when I tried to troubleshoot I noticed the very same error as before.
 
The thing is: last time I had the feeling there was a problem with Windows 10, ASUS and the current driver version. I *believe* I fixed it with an older driver, but I've tried it again this time and it didn't work. However, I cannot attest that the driver was recently updated, thus bringing the problem. Even if I wanted to, I lost the history of it when I uninstalled, reinstalled, etc.
 
Can anyone please help me on this one? I'm pretty much out of possible solutions.
 
Thanks in advance for the supportWhere did you get the drivers from ? ?...with laptops you should only use the laptop manuf. drivers...I'd really love that, but windows keep (kept?) UPDATING them by itself via NVIDIA software. Also, if you go to asus webpage, the last driver for my pc is like from 2014, when there was not even windows 10 out yet.Then i'm afraid you will continue to have issues running Win 10 on that PC...
If it were me i would completely uninstall all nvidia software...then replace your vid driver with the newest one available from the manuf...Your other choice would be to run the factory restore from the hidden partition to take the PC back to Day 1 status...

Note:...This wipes all DATA and apps so make sure to backup what you need to keep...Hey, when you say delete all drivers and install the original from the MANUFACTURER, is it advisable to use the windows 8.1 *manufacturer approved* driver on my windows 10? Would that cause conflicts?Well, I was very skeptic about upgrading my BIOS. The latest bios (212) on ASUS website that was said to be working for windows 10 was developed on 2014.... Before windows 10 launch haha... So I wasnt upgrading... I said to myself: I'm gonna upgrade this BIOS and then try some other driver mentioned in another solution.. Surprise: the BIOS worked... and now my screen is flashing like crazy and the driving is installed correctly... It seems that the problem is solved!I seriously doubt it was a BIOS issue...and isuspect your symptoms will soon return.

Most of these have been covered here on CH. But I found it interesting that the  How to Geek PUT together a article reveling the error of these myths.

http://www.howtogeek.com/220297/7-of-the-biggest-pc-hardware-myths-that-just-won%E2%80%99t-die/
7 of the Biggest PC Hardware Myths That Just Won’t Die

Most of the have been covered here on CH. But I found it interesting that the  How to Geek put together a article reveling the error of these myths.

Maybe this is whoat happens. Somebody gts a new CPU, memory or graphics card and it seems the PC runs better. So he tells everybody he can that it is always that way. No, it is not always that way. 

Here are the 7 myths  from the link above.

1. More RAM Will Always Speed Up Your PC

2. A CPU With More Cores is Always Faster

3. 64-bit Software is Always Faste

4. You Always Want a Faster CPU and Graphics Card

5. MACS Are Always More Expensive Than PCs

6. Building Your Own PC Will Always Save You Money

7. MAC Address Filtering Helps Keep Your Wi-Fi Secure

But is no tat least one of these always true?   

Rater that quoting g the article, perhaps you might wish to give your own response to any or all of the above.
Their performance related "myths" should be DEBUNKED with actual benchmark data. Take a PC and run synthetic and real-world tests with different amounts of RAM. Do the same with a constant amount of ram switching between two processors with different numbers of cores. Test software available in both 32-bit and 64-bit versions for performance. Instead they are asserting it. If what they say is true, it would be reflected in straightforward, non-biased performance testing, both synthetic and real. Their "debunking" of these myths are no better than the myths themselves, which they've literally made up anyway- they just made some typical considerations slapped in a "Always" and used that strawman as fodder to crap out some more content, which it sounds like from the comments wasn't even properly edited before PUBLISHING, well done!

The News editor position is still taking applications...Here is one I like the best:
MAC Address Filtering Helps Keep Your Wi-Fi Secure
The How To Geek is also one promoting the Myth!
http://helpdeskgeek.com/networking/mac-address-filtering/
Quote

Securing a WIFI network could be done using several methods and the most common (i.e. WPA and WEP) methods employ a password type of mechanism.  However, I have found that securing a wireless network with just a password is not enough to defeat the very DETERMINED hackers.

The How To Geek is also one promoting the Myth!
http://helpdeskgeek.com/networking/mac-address-filtering

just trying to get this older computer on the network is a pain.... won't connect to the internet sometimes even with multiple restarts.... when it finally does connect it doesn't stay connected for very long maybe enough for 2 maybe 3 refreshes of a website before disconnecting from the network and that's using built in wired, usb wireless card and a usb to ethernet adapter.... all of them do the same thing this computer was a beast when it was built... it's running windows 7 Pro x32 with dual dual core xeon CPUS and 4 GB of ram (1.99 GB usable) with enough room for 5 3.5" HDDs  SATA 1 maybe?

other COMPUTERS on the network run just fine with no problems at all

this is really frustrating as this computer is both my HTPC and NAS... just want it to workcheck the IPv4 settings and make sure the tick boxes are on automatically obtain IP address. control panel> network and internet> network and sharing center> change adapter settings> properties. If that doesn't work check device manager for any yellow explanation marks on any network related hardware that MAY be drivers causing  issues as well. Also when it is plugged in try and ping another IP address on your network that is working with CMD, that should tell you if it can communicate with local machines. If it does SUCCESSFULLY ping a local machine USE command tracert www.google.com that will tell you where the connection drops out.

I just bought a SanDisk Cruzer Edge USB Flash Drive that has 8 GB on it. Now, I have a POLAROID 9 inch tablet. What I would like to know is this OK to have if I want to save files on my tablet? I don't seem to SEE a place where I could put the flash drive. Did I buy the wrong thing?

What is the right thing to buy?Does the tablet have a USB socket anywhere?
On many tablets, the micro USB port can be used for both power/charging and data transfer.  In order to use your USB flash drive with the micro USB port you will need an adapter cable.  The adapter cable you need is referred to as an OTG (On The GO) cable.  Another option would be to RETURN the flash drive you got and purchase a flash drive with the OTG adapter built-in that will plug directly into your tablet.

Here's an example of a flash drive with built-in OTG: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-duo-link-otg-16gb-usb-2-0-micro-usb-flash-drive-black-blue/6049005.p?id=1219184620331&skuId=6049005&lsft=ref:212,loc:1&ksid=75aa9556-f0d7-4fc4-9da8-933e7ea24596&ksprof_id=8&ksaffcode=pg14&ksdevice=c&ref=212&loc=1  So basically, I should return the flashdrive and get a micro SD card? There is a place for an SD card on my tablet. Is a SD card the same as a flash drive? On my tablet I can use the same cord that I use to re-charge the tablet to do the transfers. It has a USB adapter on the other end.
My recharger just has a plug where I recharge the tablet. I don't have a USB or flashdrive component on the tablet just a compartment for SD card. Quote from: JackCatalano on June 26, 2016, 07:45:02 AM

Is a SD card the same as a flash drive?

So basically, I should return the flashdrive and get a micro SD card? There is a place for an SD card on my tablet. Is a SD card the same as a flash drive?

I'm not exactly sure what's going on here.. I am RUNNING a Dual Xeon E340 with 20GB RAM, Windows 10.. (I know it's server GRADE hardware, but it was very inexpensive, and it's a workhorse)

At first boot up, the PC Behaves normally. Very fast, very responsive, like it always has.  I have no problems whatsoever.

After about.. maybe.. 6-7 hours of continuous operation, however, the machine slows to a bare crawl.. Drag/Drop operations are LAGGED beyond beleive. (Move a WINDOW, the mouse moves to the location you want it, the window takes about 2 minutes to reposition itself, and it moves frame by frame) The start menu becomes inaccessable, the task bar takes an eternity to appear, things like that. I literally have to "One Finger Salute" the machine to get it to reboot at this point, which is, I know, BAD on the drives (It's a 4TB RAID 10)

Done the usual suspects, malware, defrag, clean out old files, etc... Nothing..

At first, I was thinking that it was overheating, but I've since replaced the cooling system on the machine to no avail.
2nd Thought was that it was a power drain from the CPU, but running CPU-Z tells me I'm not losing a single unit of power throughout the day..

What could I be missing?

This started about 6-8 months ago, and I've had the machine ALMOST 3 years now..I'd run memtest86 on the system and make sure you dont have a RAM issue that builds over time. Additionally look at the system resources when it first boots and all services are loaded, write down free memory and CPU average use. When it starts to act up look in task manager and see what you have for free memory and what the CPU is doing for activity. If the CPU is busy look at the service or application that is hogging the CPU.

While its not Windows 7 and your using Windows 10. I had a similar issue with one of my 8-core FX-8350 systems where after a period of time my system would eat up its RAM and CPU would be around 90-100% for all 8 cores. Come to find out it was a Windows 7 bug. I was able to patch for this bug and fix it. In the past other things also caused similar problems such as a version of Firefox browser that had a memory leak and consumed resources over time until all RAM was used up and the system went into heavy paging ( use of the hard drive as virtual memory ) which lagged out the system with memory all used up for nonsense due to leak.

As mentioned in the subject, I would like to ask how to solve my PC issues with rebooting in normal mode a minute or seconds after logged in to Windows but my PC is stable with Safe Mode.

When I am not using my PC for a long time then I can normal use my PC with regular browsing but when I play GAMES on steam then it triggers again the rebooting without bluescreen.

Attached herewith is my system specification and I am using the Noctua D15 CPU cooler and Seasonic 550W 80+Gold. To inform you also that I am just using the integrated gpu with the i7-4790k and haven't overclocked it.

Thank you in advance for the generous help with regards my PC problem.
 

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyThank you Sir, how can I use  Bluescreen View if I cannot log in now to normal mode Windows? Even safe mode is having the complication of rebooting already. When I run program at safe mode with networking then it will trigger the rebooting.If your system will not even run in safe mode you may have a hardware problem. It could be anything from ram to the hd to a power supply or something else. Let's start with the following:

1) download MEMTEST (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the TOP of the boot order in bios, then boot to the NEWLY created cd and run the utility.

2) Hard Drive Diagnostics:
http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Make sure you select the tool which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso type, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "Write image file to disc" option), to make the CD bootable.
For Toshiba drives, see here: http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=ServicesSupport/FujitsuDrivesUSandCanada/SoftwareUtilities#diagnosticHi Sir Allan,

I attached herewith the result from memtest.

For the hardisk, I am using SSD 256GB Crucial MX100 for Windows OS and 3GB Western Digital HDD slave for file storage. What diagnostic tool good for my SSD?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]How long did you run Memtest ? ?...should be a minimum 1 hour.Around 2 hours already Sir Patio, time lapse is also there in the attached memtest photo.K...just checkin ...BTW my Dad was sir...i'm just patio.
If the SSD is fairly new i doubt it's the HDD...
Have you checked Device Manager for any Yellow !!'s which indicate bad/missing drivers yet ? ?All is well in the driver's tree Patio as I have always checked and update well my drivers with the help MSI Live update coz I am using MSI Z97 Gaming 5 MOBO.Hi Sir Allan,

Been a long time since I received no response regarding my PC issues. I hope the following details that I will be posting here can help that I have extracted using HWinfo:

and to note that when I logged my system sensor data, I am currently running prime95 to TEST my freshly re-installed OS in my system. I hope you can help me review my HWinfo logs and give some advice in order for me to avoid the rebooting issue of my PC


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Reattaching my system sensor readings.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]part 3 and part 4

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Are those CPU temps at idle ? ?No Patio, those are the temp when I did my prime95 stress test of my CPU as I mentioned in my notes.Just checkin...sorry i missed in your notes...

I'm still befuddled as things are normal in safemode....usualyy 90% of the time that points to a driver issue...
Do me a favor and expand every item in Device Manager...we may have a hidden culprit.

Also have you ever edited and/or made changes to any Windows running services ? ?

Hi, my old pc stopped working and a tech guy repaired it by replacing my g41d3c with a refurb mb with code 480734-001 related to it. There were no distinct marks on the board telling its model but it says it's from HP and the 480734 came up after a lotta goggling. Nevertheless he also replaced the intel branded fan w/ a generic one which i dont mind at all, and the ddr3s were replaced w/ ddr2s. I just needed to get it up and going due to precious files in it.

I need help with the front panel pins since the tech only pinned the power switch. I need to pin the hdd led, reset and power leds. I can't find an online manual for the mb so if ANYONE could help it would be appreciated. Thanks

Ps. I'm also getting bsod with the realtek audio so i could USE some help with that too  i temporarily disabled it just to get things going...AND cmos checksum error just wont go awayI'd be going back to the guy and ASKING him to do it properly or to give you your money back and go somewhere else - He's clearly just shoved parts from a scrap HP PC into yours in an attempt to fix it (Downgrading the RAM in the PROCESS), I hope you haven't paid too much for that "service".  You also can't just move a Windows install to a different type of motherboard without reinstalling it or at least carefully removing the old drivers and reinstalling the appropriate ones, this will be why you are getting the BSODS.  The CMOS checksum errors will be because the old motherboard he's fitted has likely got a dead battery.

Also bear in mind that you don't need to spend a lot of money to get the old PC fixed if all you need are your files, any decent tech can easily copy your files directly from your old hard drive and onto a new PC.

The motherboard appears to be from an HP Compaq DX2710 PC but I can't find the details of the pinout for the front panel header in the manual for that either.I'd like to give it a back service but the tech site is far away from home. It was my last resort bc im running out of time for my thesis and related research works are there which are due next week.

Yeah it got downgraded and bit disappointed but i did what i can do to get things up and back in action. I did replace the battery but still had checksum error. I bought a usb soundcard to have sounds again and I also had a clean install on another present hdd so i could finally hook it up on a lab machine im using for research. I just need this for another couple of months then im done with this postgrad messWhat you have described, you didn't get your computer serviced, you got it stolen and defrauded. The motherboard you have is probably from somebody else's system who brought it in for problems, and your old system board was probably sold (At a profit) to some poor sod as an 'upgrade'.

The only reason they remain in business is because they take advantage of people in situations like yours.

Early today I kicked my charger and it unplugged while walking out of my room. I was leaving and I was going to be back in a little bit. So I didn't think anything of it. I came back 30 minutes later and my computer was off. I know my computer wouldn't have died that fast. So I plugged it back in and noticed it wasn't charging. So I unplugged the charger from the actual computer and it shut off my computer. I've tried multiple times and it keeps happening. I also noticed my LAPTOP is running faster and louder ever since it happened. This also happened a few weeks ago when my dog hit the cord and it wasn't charging. But I put the cord back in and it started working just fine. I've already tried doing a few things people recommended online, like the following:
 

>Disconnect AC
>Shutdown
>Remove battery
>Connect AC
>Startup
>In Device Manager, Under the Batteries category, right-click all of the Microsoft ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery listings, and select Uninstall (it’s ok if you only have 1).
>Shutdown
>Disconnect AC
>Insert battery
>Connect AC
>Startup


But this didn't work for me and after I restarted my computer a second time. The ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery ended up coming back. Any suggestions on what could be the problem?You borrow a voltmeter from a friend and check ans see if the charger really is working.
You may have broken the cold solder joint on the internal laptop charging port...a local PC shop can replace/fix this for a fee.

That's if the charger turns out to be working fine...Would that cause my laptop to overheat? Because it sounds like a buzzing noise coming from the LEFT side. It also possible it could be the battery? Because I do have a spare hp laptop that I got in 2010 but the screen cracked. Which is why I have this laptop now. I'm not sure where the charger is FRO that laptop but if I i do find that charger and it doesn't work either. What would that mean?Also, would the batter from my other HP Laptop be able to fit into the one I have now. Just so I can check to see if it is the battery?I was able to find a spare charger. It wasn't from my old HP Laptop. It was from a different laptop but it fit and turned my laptop on but it's still not charging. However, the loud noise is gone and it doesn't feel hot anymore. Could my old charger have been overheating my laptop and this one isn't?I'd be very CAREFUL swapping chargers around like that...you can render a laptop to a paperweight if not careful.I found my old laptop and plugged the charger into it. The light turned orange, which means it was charging. So it's definitely not charger. I'm tempted to buy a new battery but I don't want to waste the money if that's not the problem.Both your existing charger...and the battery can be tested at a shop for a nominal fee...I actually took out the battery and switched it with my old laptops battery and now it's charging fine but for some reason my laptop is still being really loud.Inside fan may be obstructed...clogged....or is the buzzing an electrical sound Quote from: patio on July 18, 2016, 12:26:37 PM

I'd be very careful swapping chargers around like that...you can render a laptop to a paperweight if not careful.