Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

Hello all, I've got two OS on my C:drive, both are w2k one boots fine the other won't because of missing files, I've tried a repair install  with no luck.
What I'd like to do is wipe the C:drive clean and start over with ONE fresh install of w2k, I tried the disk manager, right clicked C: but the options of format and delete partition are greyed out. Do I have to USE the w2k disk in order to get those options or is there a better way to do this?          Thanks.Do you have your cd disk for operating system you wil be using?  If so boot from d drive and follow directions.So I can delete the two operating SYSTEMS on the drive and end up with this new install as the only one on the drive?Sorry Nancy_O , yes I have the disk Boot with the CD in the drive and press any key when prompted. Choose to format the drive when GIVEN that option. You cannot do this from within Windows.

Hey, this is my FIRST POST on here and I've got a question regarding my monitor and keyboard. I just discovered that the ac adapter for my monitor was buzzing in a pulsing pattern and then noticed my monitor's brightness was fading in and out in the same pulsing rythem. I figured it was the ac adapter but LATER on I noticed that my keyboard, which is lit up, was also flickering but only when the monitor was on. I've left it off for about 10 minutes at a TIME and no flickering but as soon as I turn the monitor on it starts to flicker.

I've tried plugging my monitor into different outlets, plugging the keyboard into different ports, different dvi cables, and yes, even turning everything off and back on again. Could it be my power supply or motherboard? I've never heard of this KIND of thing before and can't find anything else about it online. Any help would be appreciated.

My pc crashed one day while playing a game and after i rebooted it it LOOKED like this. I did a fresh install of windows but it still looks like this. Any idea what to do?


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Looks like color depth SET to 256 colors, and/or display adapter set to generic VGA.

This page mentions HP products, but the instructions are good for all SYSTEMS RUNNING Windows 7 or 10

http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01853728

Lately, some of the keys on my Dell LAPTOP have stopped working . .off and on. At first it was the "Z" and then the "!" and then the "?" now the "x". However, the "!" is now working but the "." has begun skipping along with the right HAND "SHIFT" key. It seems that when I press it several times in a row it begins to work partially. I tap with the same pressure. I keep my KEYBOARD pretty clean and have worked very hard to blow any debris out from the keys. I haven't spiled anything on it. I really don't WANT to buy a new keyboard! Could this problem be from a virus or malware? If not, is it possible to remove the key and clean under it? Thanks for listening.

I got a Gateway DX4300 PC from work that was being gotten rid of, and the hard drive is dying.  I just went on eBay and bought a replacement, which is a SEAGATE.  Anyways, I can open the CD drive via the buttons on the top, but only if certain Gateway software is on the computer.  When I get the replacement hard drive, I need to be able to install the OS from the DVD-ROM.  How can I open the DVD drive from the command line, since WINDOWS will be unavailable?Use a paper clip in the front pinhole button...Thanks.  I will have a look at the computer.No pin hole.  However, when I shined a flashlight on the right side as SEEN from the BACK, I saw an eject button I had not seen before.  Pressing it ejected the DVD drive EVEN on the BIOS screen.  I think that is what I need.  I never noticed it before.  There is another below it, but there is no second CD drive.You may have to remove the front cover to gain access to the drive.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]It seems there are "soft" eject buttons on top of the case, which only work if the system has (1) Windows (2) the Gateway Photo Frame application installed and running. Thus after a clean Windows install, you have to install Photo Frame. Of course the drive itself will have the standard eject/close button on the right of the tray, so at times when Windows and/or Photo Frame aren't running, you have to use this somehow. AS it is hidden by the case front design, this could be tricky. In windows you can use any one of many tray-eject utilities.

"Why did the eject buttons on the top of my Gateway DX4300 Series desktop stop working?" http://acer.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1690

The vertical optical drive is cheesy and awkward. Can I operate this rig on its side? Have read many conflicting answers. Some say ok if you do not block vents but others say it depends on the MB orientation. I could call HP but I am sure they would GIVE me the stock answer, ie we put the feet on the bottom because it is the bottom! Thanks.I see no reason that it would need to remain vertical. I use a tower case on it's side myself. (Not that one, mind you, but a custom build) And it gives me no problems. I have to deal with my optical drive on it's side as a result so I understand that annoyance as well!

The mentions you've seen regarding motherboard orientation are because it is much preferred to have the tower case lying on it's side such that the motherboard is on the bottom. This is fairly easy to check- the side with the motherboard is always the one with the connectors on the rear (Video, Ethernet, USB,etc). So rest it on that side and it will be fine. Most likely that is the correct way to place it for the drive to be face-up when opened.Your choice. Desktops are made to go either way.The only possible issue would be the hd - nothing else. Ideally you would want to reformat the hd once the pc is in the position you intend to use it. However, it's unlikely you'll run into issues even if you don't reformat. Quote from: Allan on April 12, 2016, 05:16:07 AM

The only possible issue would be the hd - nothing else. Ideally you would want to reformat the hd once the pc is in the position you intend to use it. However, it's unlikely you'll run into issues even if you don't reformat.

The only possible issue would be the hd - nothing else. Ideally you would want to reformat the hd once the pc is in the position you intend to use it. However, it's unlikely you'll run into issues even if you don't reformat.

Somewhere I read a HDD must not be held at a 45 degree angle.
So avoid putting it in a wine rack. 

Hey.

I recently acquiried a NVIDIA 64mb graphics card with a VGA output jack in addition to the one my monitor uses (NTSC?).

I've hooked a Philips' SCUBA Virtual Immersion Visor up to the output and I've got it working decently (though the whole NVIDIA Control Panel interface for dual output support seems buggy at best).

My purpose for doing this is for watching movies and and playing video games from my computer on my visor. I've yet to try out any games, but most videos fail to show up. If playing a .mpeg or .avi, in Windows Media Player for instance, I can see everyting on the screen except for the actual video footage. Once or twice I did see some flashes of colour, but mostly it was just black.

The interesting thing is, though, QUICK Time movies do play fine, but no other file types do. I can only suspect it is related to the frame rate somehow.

Visor is running at at 800 x 600, 32-bit colour, 60 hertz, and it wont seem to let me change the frame rate for the visor.

What can I do to fix this? Thanks for any help you can offer me!NTSC?  What does National Television System(s) Committee have to do with your computer monitor?

What is the freaking Philips' SCUBA Virtual Immersion Visor?  A computer monitor, a TV, ?  If a computer monitor, what type (CRT, LCD)?   Quote

What is the freaking Philips' SCUBA Virtual Immersion Visor?

Hey, I hope I'm doing this right, because I(actually my 5 year old daughter) could SURE use some help finding an AGP(or PCI) card for our computer as well!

1st. We are not gamers and don't intend to become ones

2nd. This computer was given to us free(so we're on a budget)

Problem: My daughter got the "Let's Ride Silver Buckle Stables" game for CHRISTMAS and it say that it requires the following: Win98/Me/2000/Xp, Pentium III 700mhz or 100% compatible, 256MB RAM, 32MB DirectX 8.1 compliant video card.

We have: Compaq Presario, Windows 98SE, AMD Athlon 700 mhz K7, 256 RAM (Max of 384 if we add another 128 chip), 250W PSU, 4 - PCI SLOTS(1open), 1 - AGP (1.0, 1X 2X, 3.3V)Slot currently with a 3dfx Vodoo3 16 MB card.

Question: Will our machine support a DirectX8.1 compliant card off of a 250W power supply and only a AGP 1.0 3.3V slot?

THANK You!

WilliamATI Radeon 9200se in PCI. I had one and it was very reliable and would play most anything, expect to pay 65 to 75 dollars.

I do not think that you can put newer AGP cards (1.1v) in the old 3.3v slots but I am sure the 9200se in PCI would work.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=84766&Tab=0&NoMapp=0

Almost forgot- I ran this card off my old 250watt power supply for over a year.If you're going to spend what the card stones mentioned costs, here's a better card for a little less if you take advantage of the rebate offer:        
      
Diamond Stealth Radeon 9250 / 256MB DDR / PCI / DVI / TV-Out / Video Card

If you want to spend less: take a look here: Video / Graphics Cards  PCI Video Cards

What is PC3200 all about and what does represent?It's a designation of a style/speed of RAM sticks...

More

patio.  8-)PC3200 is equivalent to speed right? But where we gonna find the speed of the memory? Is it indicated in the memory?Click on the link i posted above for more info...also crucial.com has a good explanation of the different TYPES of RAM on their website.

If you NEED more info let us know. Quote

In similar fashion PC2700 is PC333 or DDR 333 (333 MHz) and PC2100 is PC266 or DDR 266 (266MHz).

In similar fashion PC2700 is PC333 or DDR 333 (333 MHz)

I have just deceided to try and fix my computer and I am getting probs.  I get an error message when I boot up the computer and I have tried various combinations of slave/master etc but to no AVAIL.  The hard drive has not got an OS at the moment as I am going to install it.  I have one 80gig HDD (IDE) and the other IDE device is a cd rom.

The error is as follows.

!!!!!!!!!! IDE DRIVES INSTALLATION ERROR !!!!!!!!!!
For best reliability and performance, please CHANGE the stand ALONE slave drive to master. System halt...

Any help that can be offered WOULD be a reliefDo you have the hard drive plugged to IDE Channel 1?

You have 2 Ide channels on you motherboard.

The IDE cable to the hard drive should be plugged
to IDE Channel 1.

Try SWITCHING them around. :-?

The top of the picture.  One inch down is a horizontal line and almost halfway across from that line up is a vertical line.  Now this can't be burn in - or could it?  Does anyone know what's going on here?

I've tried it with HDMI, D-Sub and DVI as well as on a different computer.  It's RUNNING at the native resolution.






 Can't say for sure if it is burn-in or not.  LCD screens are less susceptible to burn-in than CRT screens but not totally immune.  However, in the case of an LCD the burn-in is usually not permanent.Leave it a while and see if it fades.  IPS LCD panels tend to get slight, temporary burn in - I notice it on my laptop where I can see a faint ghost from previously open programs for a short period of time after closing them, it fades out QUITE quickly.

If you apply pressure to the screen (carefully!) do you get any rippling around that area?  There could be some sort of pressure point in the casing that presses against that part of the panel which can cause issues like this.  My laptop has a subtle BRIGHT spot where the touch screen controller PCB is located as this presses against the back of the screen EASIER than the rest of the lid when the laptop gets squeezed in a bag.Thanks for the response guys.  No there doesn't seem to be any rippling with it.  It has been there for a really long time.  I'm setting it aside for a while to see if that makes any improvement on it.  I'm also looking at this wondering if it will do anything other than give the dog epileptic seizures.  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHlPCQQG2XcFPN4jAa1QVxwPut the puppy outside before trying that procedure....

I know that to use two GC in SLI they NEED to be Identical. But does the Memory Size of each card need to be the same. I have an Geforce 7600GS 256MB, can I use another 7600GS but with a 512MB Memory? And if so will there be any increase in performance then if I just USED another 256MB one?
Thanks.
Dan
This thread contains the answer
- http://forums.slizone.com/index.php?showtopic=948

Quote from thread
"Here is the rule:

You can SLI two graphics cards as long as they have the same GPU model. Example: 7600GT and 7600GT. Memory speed, amount, etc. DOESNT MATTER. Just put your slower or lower memory card in the primary x16 slot. The second, more advanced one, will automatically tone down when slaved to the primary GPU. But you have to remember: it MUST be the same GPU model."

I believe that my AMD Athlon XP2800+ is failing.  I use my system mostly for Flight Sim.  I do not want to do a full system upgrade till mid summer.  I need a review of this plan:  I plan to upgrade now with a Athlon 64 3800+ and use a ASUS A8N5X MB since this board will allow me to upgrade to a Athlon 64 Dual Core eventually.  I want to re-install my Corsair TwinX 1GB DDR400 XMS3200 RAM, WD 120 GB SATA hard drive, and Radeon 9800np Graphics Card.  My UNDERSTANDING is that the new FSX Flight Sim does not yet FULLY utilize the Dual Core CPU so I don’t want to go there yet. When I upgrade I would like to ad another IDENTICAL hard drive.  I am very receptive to better suggestions. If I am thinking dumb, please break it to me kindly.

I have a Dell Inspirion 2020 All-In-One that powered off last week on its own.  When I would plug the power cord in, the blue fuse light would shut off instantly.  I TRIED the cord on other devices, worked fine.  Tried different cords on computer and had the same result of the light on the cord shutting off instantly.  After asking around, it appears to be the motherboard.  Bought one from Dell, and installed it.  All I did was unhook OLD one and install cables back in exact place.  I took a picture before hand to make sure.  Now I get a single amber light on the power button but will not power up.  I know the fan starts when I push the power button but as soon as the amber light comes on, which is 1 sec after I push the power button, the fan cuts off.  Any direction or assistance would be great to fix this large paperweight.Unfortunately it likely wasn't the MBoard...but the power pack...
See if they will WORK with you on an exchange.Thanks for the RESPONSE.  I will check but I did this in the mean time.  I took the back of the computer off and there is a light on the motherboard that comes on when I plug the power cord in.  I did the same to the old motherboard and no light and the cord light cut off right away.  When I pushed the power button on the computer I get that single flash amber light, the fan starts but cuts off when the light goes out.  Would that still be a power pack issues?Based on that i would say likely that both components failed at the same time...
Keep the new board ...and search out a power pack.
NOTE...with power packs do not buy a generic one...nothin but headaches.Thank youIs this the same power external power pack?
Quote

Compatible Part #'s: PA-4E, JU012, 2TXJ7, 331-5817, WRHKW, VJCH5, VNM7N, 2TXJ7, D232H, X408G, 330-1830.

Specifications:
Input: 100-240V~2.5A 50-60Hz
Output: 19.5V-6.7A
Watts: 130 Watts

Doesn't test under load.

So 5 Bucks...what about a voltmeter ?

All i'm stating is your post led him to believe it was a test that cost 5 Bucks.

Ok I'm trying to remove the hard drive from my lenovo ideacentre b340 and I have no idea how to do it. I've taken the cover off the back of it and I can see the hard drive. Can anyone help me with removing it?The drive should slide away from the connection to the motherboard. If the drive doesnt slide away from motherboard connection look for a bracket that is keeping it in place from disconnecting. Once its disconnected you might have to remove a thin metal hard drive HOUSING bracket. Move this HARDWARE to new drive, and slide the new drive in the WAY the old slid out. If there was any locking hardware place the hardware back. Put the laptop back together the way you REMOVED it ( Making sure that the screws removed are the correct length for each hole they came out of ) * If a screw that is too long is ADDED to wrong screw hole you can damage the laptop or destroy it.

I can use my printer OK from VARIOUS apps / programs such as browsers and EMAIL clients but not at all from the key Windows 10 apps: Edge and Mail. When I TRY, I get the printer menu PAGE but then (in red) a statement that the printer cannot be found. I can print from WordPad, so what I have to do is copy / paste to WordPad. This is not so difficult but I would like to print directly from Edge and Mail.

The HP Deskjet 1510 Printer is connected via USB cable, not WiFi.

Any ideas?You need to install the Win 10 drivers,...This issue was RESOLVED with a clean re-install, carried out for other reasons.Glad you are fixed up...

I love my photography but having DOWNLOADED WINDOWS 7 am devastated to SEE                                                                                         m def       ED                                                                                            pictures                                                                                                                   No need to double post...

TOPIC Closed.

Its old, but rarely used,  so i tried to see if it still useable. I plugged it in to my surge connector and checked Device Manager. DM says its fine with its drivers and working acceptably. The problem is that it does not show up in the C drive or any other driver. It also, as I recalled, LIGHT up after inserting a usb THUMB drive. In fact, Windows plug and play does not acknowledge it at all...so why then DM says its just fine? Quote from: Novel8 on April 22, 2016, 05:17:27 PM

The problem is that it does not show up in the C drive or any other driver.

Greetings,

Getting plenty done in computer stuff today. This has been on my list for a while and now its time. My GPU is running on an all time new HIGH hot. Last night i hit 78 degrees Celsius and it began to throttle i noticed frame rate drops.

I have a MSI R6870 Hawk twin frozer. Ive repasted many CPU's but never a GPU. Has anyone any experience with this? is it just remove the 6 screws clean up old paste, apply new and put back together or is there thermal pads on the VRAM?

Just a little nervous and im not finding any online guides..  I re-pasted my 9800GT. It's pretty much as you describe; unscrew the cover and remove it and replace the paste. There are thermal pads on other components but I left them in place. I Did find to my DISMAY that it still ran as hot as before- nearly 98 degrees at idle.

I decided to take apart the COWLING itself and found that the air channels the fan BLOWS air through and out the back of the card were completely clogged with dust. I cleaned those out and put the card back together and back in it's PC and it ran at 43 degrees idle.
Some cards have thermal pads on the VRAM, just be careful not to tear them and they can easily be reused - in fact I recommend reusing them wherever possible as it's often difficult to get the EXACT correct thickness pads to replace them.  Other than that, yes, it's usually very straightforward indeed, just remember to unscrew and unplug the fan if needed.

My HP Photosmart C4780 has problem, when I try to print a page (which I copy & paste to a word document), it only print out the black color words/lines on that page, other color text of IMAGE cannot print out. I downloaded the update driver and went to control panel printer, but I don't see any selection for PRINTING property. KINDLY please help.
Thank you very much,
JohnHi

Before looking at SOFTWARE it is easier just to do a color copy and see if all the colors are there. If not it is a cartridge problem. First thing to try is the head clean in the tools menu run that and see if if it CLEARS the color head. If not then you will need a new color cartridge.

Down loaded windows 7, and everything is elongated, is there a fix for this problem, i tried adjusting the monitor, no good. I hope someone has the answer, its driving me bonkers.1) Before installing W7 did you run the compatibility CHECKER?

2) After installing W7 did you download and install all appropriate DRIVERS (including the display driver)?I deleted your recent post - that would have been the third one on the same question. If you want help, respond to the questions above. If you keep starting new threads on the same question after having been asked not to at least twice, we'll have to restrict your posting privileges.sorry about the double post, the cursor started running away, as to my problem the workshop did the work so  i don't know if he checked for compatability.Don't know what workshop you are REFERRING to...however even after the install you can STILL run the compatibility checker.And did you install the W7 drivers? (Look in Disc Manager - are there any yellow or red symbols?)Allan means Device Manager...LOL - thanks Patio. CRAZY hectic with work and trying to do two things at once. At least it wasn't work I screwed up (I hope ).Me too....

I've had my computer, and Alienware Aurora R2 for about five years now, and I've updated it's ram from 4 to 16GB, and boosted the graphics card from what it was, to an AMD HD7700, and everything else is just about the standard fare for 5 years ago. For the last few years, I've been having problems with my PC crashing. I always thought it was some PART of the PC that I needed to replace (Ram, Graphics card), but nothing's worked. I've updated drivers, performed a system restore, even re-installed my OS (An Alienware specific version of windows 7).

I have no idea what's causing it, but this is the crash:

Screen freezes, if I'm on skype or voice chat, the headphones go silent, but out of my speakers comes a stuttered, garbled sound of what was already playing on my screen. I took a short video clip while I was playing a game and the crash occurred. The crash happens at random, but seemingly mostly when I'm playing a Tank in the War Thunder game (depicted on screen) or when I'm downloading/updating/patching new games. The crash itself, however, can occur anywhere at any time, and has. Youtube videos, music PROGRAMS, or just when my computer is sitting there, or if I open a new program, the crash is prone to happen at any time. Sometimes when the crash occurs, there is no sound at all. But most of the incidents have that garbled noise.

Also the sound isn't a loop, it's whatever is and was going to play. For instance if a video was saying "Nice to meet you" and it froze on the word "to", if I waited long enough, the stuttered sound would continue to play out "meet you" in the garbled manner.

Here's the link to the 11 second clip I took, TODAY, immidiatly before coming to this forum.

https://youtu.be/aEefA-V5Isk

(I'm an amatuer, don't EXPECT anything ocsar-worthy)

After checking the Windows Reliability Tool, it mentioned there was a Video Hardware Error.
The error technical details are as follows:

Description
A problem with your video hardware caused Windows to stop working correctly.

Problem signature
Problem Event Name: LiveKernelEvent
OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3
Locale ID: 1033

Extra information about the problem
BCCode: 117
BCP1: FFFFFA800D071010
BCP2: FFFFF88004229CAC
BCP3: 0000000000000000
BCP4: 0000000000000000
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 768_1
Bucket ID: X64_0x117_Tdr:2_IMAGE_atikmpag.sys
Server information: 9b93cf98-61ca-45fe-be53-3584571c2683


If anyone can help me figure this out, please let me know.
I think the error messages is pretty self-explanatory ("A problem with your video hardware caused Windows to stop working correctly."). It's being caused by either the video card or driver.Make sure your graphics card has all the power connectors firmly plugged into it. And you can TRY to reseat the card. Next check to see if you have the latest drivers.

After you have done this you can take a look at the temperature of the graphics card. If it goes too high, which might be because of you getting a bad model or the heatsink sitting wrong and getting massive heat spikes.



I previously THOUGHT I had all my drivers updated. I visited AMD's site and got the auto-detect (I ran this a month ago, and nothing was new, or the download had been corrupted and didn't display anything properly) and there -was- in fact a driver update needed. I also downloaded a program to monitor my heat, and my GPU idles at about 38-40C, while in game it runs at about 68-70C, and I beleive that's the norm (from the site I got the program from).  After updating my driver, I was able to play War Thunder (The game that crashed me in 90% of my games) and PLAYED four matches without a crash.  I'm hopeful, but it'll take another day or two for me to be sure.

I appriciate the help, and I guess I needed someone with more tech knowledge than me to state the obvious, because I have the dumb.

Hello I wanted to buy a motherboard for my I5 4690K but I want to overclock it since I bought the unlocked version of this CPU, I was told by this site that I should go for a Z87 or a Z97
http://innoreviews.com/motherboard/best-motherboard-for-i5-4690k/

However both are kinda EXPENSIVE around ~100-140$ is there no cheaper motherboard that allows me to overclock this I5?You need a Z-series chipset to overclock a K series CPU, yes.  Other CHIPSETS do not have the ability to set a multiplier higher than stock, or depending on the model, 4 "bins" above stock, that's reserved for the Z chipsets.
However, you don't have to buy EITHER of the models suggested on your link - in fact I'd generally recommend against an MSI motherboard, I usually recommend Asus or Gigabyte.  Asus and Gigabyte models are AVAILABLE for around $100.
I'm hoping this link works and keeps my filters and SORTING, have a look here - https://pcpartpicker.com/parts/motherboard/#c=89,99&sort=a8&page=1&m=8,14,18

Hope this helps

My old HP Pavillon a1600a has this CPU. After doing some repairs and upgrades last year, my HP continues to work great even after upgrading to Win 10. After buying and configuring a new desktop for my SIL, I am getting itchy for a new rig even though I am totally satisfied with my current one.

Just wondering, if I got a new PC with a faster CPU, eg Intel i5, would the better performance be noticeable? I am a very light user - average 1 hr/day surfing, email and on-line banking. THANKS. Quote

Better performance would be:

Faster boot. Better Multimedia Performance. Better multitasking with less lag. Any games you play beyond the simplicity of solitaire will run better.

Remain the same:

Web Pages that DONT contain flash or videos as well as e-mail will open and send about the same speed. Games bundled with Windows will run about the same like solitaire.

Question I have is.... is there something the older computer is unable to run or run well that you would need to upgrade? Personally myself if I wasnt a gamer I would be able to get by with a 14 year old computer. But the video games are what push me to have to upgrade in order to play the newest titles about every 3  to 5 years. I generally put 2 or 3 video cards into a desktop before the CPU starts to become the bottleneck and then go with a new build.


Myself being conservative, I generally run something I buy into the ground before buying another such as my 18 year old Honda Civic. If there is no dire need to have a newer computer, I'd save your money and run what you already have until it becomes untrustworthy or dies.

How much you want for the Civic ? ?

I have told my wife many times I am not going to get a new PC until the MB fries but the idea of a new rig keeps rattlin' around my head.

I love my civic 2 door EX loaded with all accessories and plenty of power when VTEC kicks in on highway...  34mpg when I take it easy and about 25mpg if VTEC is running for long in higher 3000+ rpm range. Its going to be a sad day when I have to part with it. Fast car for a small motor!
Does your wife have computing needs that require a newer computer?

Hopefully your wife isnt like mine and just wants new just to have new because old is old. Wife and I are opposites that way.

Hello,

I got a laptop with one 3.5mm outtake for both microphone and headphones.
This is the laptop, headphones and microphone I got.

Laptop:

ASUS N552VX 15.6" Full HD

https://www.komplett.se/product/856043/datorer-och-surfplattor/barbara-datorer/gamingdatorer/asus-n552vx-156-full-hd-matt#technical-details


Headphones:

Bose Soundlink Wireless Headphones II

https://www.komplett.se/product/856714/tv-ljud-bild/horlurar/traadlost/bose-soundlink-traadlosa-horlurar-ii


Microphone

RØDE smartLav+

http://www.rode.com/microphones/smartlav-plus


And I am getting these wireless in ears as well:

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/phazon-wireless-earbuds-guaranteed-not-to-fall/#/


I want to use my current and future wireless headphones connected via bluetooth at the same time as I have the microphone plugged in to the multijack.
I ALSO want to be able to plug in the wireless headphones with the wire connected while using the microphone at the same time, which I will need a specific splitter for.

The PROBLEM is that when I have the headphones connected via bluetooth and connect the microphone they do not work together.
And since there is just one place to plug 3.5mm in I can only use one at the time and therefore I need a splitter. I have tried a random cheap Deltaco splitter but it did not work.

At this time I am just hoping that this will work some WAY. I will pay a reasonable amount to the person that solves these problems.

Kind regards,
HenrikHere is some information about audio connectors. Phone plugs.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phone_connector_%28audio%29
Quote

The terms phone plug and phone jack are sometimes used to refer to different genders of phone connectors,[5] but are also sometimes used colloquially to refer to RJ11 and older telephone plugs and the corresponding jacks that connect wired telephon

Good day all forum friends.
I have a problem capturing video form my JVC DV camcorder. I have used the default windows capture program, JVC' own capture program and Video Studio 10+. Here are my computer details: Windows XP pro SP2. Celeron 3.06g processor. 200 & 80 bg hard drives. Firewire card.
The problem: None of the programs listed above allow me a preview and return an error. Yet on another computer, with the same camera and firewire card, I get no errors and a preview and capture.
Why not use that computer? it has a small haed drive, 1.7g processor and will be unsuitaple for extensive WORK on video files. I have uded Device manager - "no conflicts", "device is working properly" I have diabled firewall, removed and reinsgtalled video programs, cleaned registry. Still unable to capture.  "failed to bulid preview graph in VS10" "unexpected error" in Windows capture program. Even changed firewire card - same problems. I am at a loss can someone help me please.
Ostech
What are the differences in the video capabilities of the 2 machines ? ?Thanks for your quick response, Not so sure about your interpretation of video capacities. Only to say that the computer it works on has 512mb ram 1.7g celeron processor, 80 gb Hard drive, no video or games card. The machine it dos'nt work on has 1GB ram, no other card but the firewire card.I believe patio means the video card.
But do CORRECT me if I'm wrong.
You say it has no video card -that's impossible.
It may have no dedicated card but it has to have an on-board card, or you'd get no video output at all.
So patio's question, as I interpret it, is - what video card does each machine have?Thanks Calum.
I will check the mother board for the video card and write back to you.  I guess what I meant to say is that I have no graphcs card.  While I'm on, I just need to say that the motherboard I am using is a Chaintech MPM800-3. It has been very difficult to find out from them if the problems Im having, existed before. Incidentally the lesses motherboard  is from Biostar.
Thanks for your help.Your Chaintech motherboard has integrated S3 Graphics UniChrome Pro.
If you can find out your other motherboard model, that would be useful.
Hopefully the info helps someone to help you.Calum,  Thanks again for your input.  The other motherboard is Biostar U8668-D Ver 5.0.  I just looked at the users guide of the Chaintech motherboard and seen  a heading CN16/26A(IEEE1394 connector).
I suppose I should try to LOCATE this connector on the motherboard and see if it works. I presume I shall have to find an adaptor cable of some sort. Your thoughts please.  

OstechThe Biostar has "S3 ProSavage 8 up to 32MB shared video memory" graphics.
Hopefully this helps someone out as well.
The IEEE1394 connector is Firewire . . . should be easily accessible.
If you can find it, try plugging the camcorder into that and see if it works.And make sure bluetooth is enabled in the BIOS and has the drivers installed from the MBoard driver CD that came with the machine...Bluetooth?
Why?
Am I missing something?
Or is it a joke/mistake?
:-?oooops   firewire.Hee hee.
Not often you make a mistake patio.
I also never knew Firewire was in the BIOS.
Although I suppose it does make sense.
You learn something new every day, they say.It actually might not be but it's worth a looksee...Thank you GENTLEMEN for your input. I will try all the recommended options and post the results.

Ostech

Big problem.

I had an evga 7600gts for about a month and a half, and it ran great. No problems or anything, and one day it STOPPED sending video. I took it out and WENT back to onboard video, and it worked fine, but no matter what i did the 7600gts wouldn't send any video output. so I rma'd the card for a refund, and decided to go with a sapphire x1900gt.


Today, the sapphire card arrives and I stick it in. I made sure the bios and everything was properly set, but its having the same exact problem as the 7600gts was. Lights come on, but no video output. This time, however, I tried running it with the case open and noticed that my cpu fan was NOT spinning at all. It spins when I use onboard video, but when I try using the x1900 the cpu fan will not spin at all.(even if i'm plugged into onboard video with the x1900 plugged in the cpu fan won't spin).

Usually my pc makes BEEPS when its booting up, but no such beeps when I have the x1900 plugged in, same when i was having the problem with the 7600.


Help...please...... could this be a burnt out pci-e bridge? is there any way to test for that?i went through emachine tech support (gah) and they had me reinstall my chipset drivers, nothing. However, I did NOTICE (not sure if it was doing this before or not) that the CPU fan spins for a couple of seconds before it STOPS. All the other case fans are working, its just the cpu fan that is not, even the graphics card fan is spinning fine.


And here's my specs:

Emachines T6534
AMD athlon 64 3700+ San diego
512mb ram ddr 3200
200gb 7200rpm hdd
Nvidia 6100 integrated graphics


And i've added:
430 watt Antec Trio Truepower psu
1 GB OCZ ddr3200 Ram


All of this works until i try to plug in a sapphire ATI x1900GT.If you can run onboard video and BOTH AGP cards exhibit the same problem, then the looks like the AGP slot took a dump.

Alan <><

Compaq Presario 2200 - Win.XP sp.1 - ram not known - hdd size not known

The laptop won't boot from the hdd due to Unmountable_Boot_Volume.  The previous owner 'caused' this to happen by indiscriminately loading music files onto the root of C: from an external hdd.  I know, or think I know, how to effect a cure by booting from an XP cd but the dvd drive will not boot from any cd including the XP cd, Knoppix 4.02 LiveCD and an NTFS4Dos bootable cd, all of which boot successfully on other hardware.

The boot sequence has been changed in bios and the dvd drive can be heard 'seeking' for a short while in the bootup sequence then nothing else.  Obviously I could just throw in another dvd if I CARED to fork out about $150.--, and may eventually have to do that, but thought someone might have something else for me to try (cleaning perhaps) before committing to such expense.

Thank youThere is i still believe from years ago a certain limit to how MANY files can reside in the root folder. If you can hook up the drive as a slave in a known working system and clean out those music files you might be able to re-install it and have it boot properly.
There are adapter cables for about ten bucks that will allow you to slave that drive into a desktop machine...
Careful what you delete ...if you're not sure of a file leave it. But the music files should be fairly obvious.
After finishing i suggest running chkdsk and defrag on that drive before you attempt to boot from it.

Hope this helps.

patio.  8-)Thank you Patio.

After reading your reply I have already ordered the adapter kit.  I'll post back later with result.



Hdd is a Seagate ST93015A 30gb file system [highlight]NTFS.[/highlight]

I slaved it on a desktop running Win.98se and used NTFS4Dos successfully to access files, could not locate .wav files but only 100+kb available on disk.  

Chkdsk /f in Win.98se showed the following message(s):
Recovering orphaned file I_MIGH~1.WAV (59538) into Directory File 59535
Recovering orphaned file I_MIGHT_BE_WRONG.WAV (59538) into Directory File 59535

(Plus a few more like the above, all .wav files.  I couldn't find any of the files on the disk.)

Also displayed were:
Adding 8 Bad Clusters to the Bad Clusters File
Correcting errors in the Master File Table's (MFT) Data Attribute.
Correcting errors in the Master File Table's (MFT) Bitmap Attribute.
Correcting erros in the Volume Bitmap.
Windows has made corrections to the File System.

- followed by  breakdown of the hdd's space allocations.

Seagate diagnostics now shows the file system is now  [highlight]FAT32[/highlight] and brought up 51 instances of:
The following Sectors MAY be damaged
LBA:  117111
STATUS : Write-reallocation SUCCESSful!
USAGE: Unresolvable.

A second run of Seagate diagnostics showed a further 9 instances of the above.

Still using Win.98se I tried to format the disk but Format hung after 10% and could not be canceled.   So slaved the disk on a desktop running XP Home SP.2 and again tried Format which hung after about 10% and again could not be canceled.  I canceled the process in Task Manager and got the message "This disk cannot be formatted".  Tried Partition Magic which formatted the partition but displayed the format as "Raw".

So - out with the big guns.  Plugged up the hdd as Master, booted from the XP Home cd (genuine version) and ran Setup which, after accepting the EULA, produced the message "The partition is either too full, damaged, not formatted or formatted with an incomplete file system.  To continue installing Windows, Setup must format the partition."  ACCEPTED that after which Setup displayed "Setup cannot format this partition." and setup had to be terminated.

A final run of Seagate still shows the file system as FAT32 and displays:
ATA Full Test Result: Failed
Long Test Failed (date & time)

So I guess the disk is physically or electronically busted but does this "Windows has made corrections to the File System." mean that chkdsk run in Win.98 changed the file system from NTFS to FAT32?

Apologies for such a long post, couldn't cut it down by much.

ThanksI doubt that chkdsk 98 would have even run if it was an NTFS setup but i've seen stranger things before...

Windows made changes to the file system means it attempted to fix corrupt file entries, directory's etc...

NTFS wasn't AROUND in 98 days so it probably would have said cannot recognise file system on this drive.

I suggest re-slaving the drive and trying to recover whatever data you need. Not passing the drive fitness tests is definitely not a good sign.

You might be having funeral services for that HDD unfortunately...

patio.  8-) Quote

You might be having funeral services for that HDD unfortunately...

I hope someone can help me.

My computer went kaput on Friday evening.  I was watching the TV and heard it getting a bit loud so went to have a look.  It seems my water cooling reservoir had sprung a leak and very little liquid was flowing.  I switched it off immediately (mistake #1) and opened the box, but no liquid had spilled inside.  The reservoir is outside, so in that respect I was lucky.

I plugged her back in and nothing.  Completely dead.  Not even a PSU fan.  Found the PSU supplier website and it suggested shorting a couple of pins to check whether the PSU was the problem.  I shorted them and the PSU kicked into life.  I also had a fiddle with the connectors and as soon as I unplugged and replugged the 4-pin ATX connecter it started up, but the PC was still dead other than that - it refused to POST.

Bought a new motherboard and swapped that in.  The PC basically dead still.  So this time I thought maybe it was more than just the motherboard connector and that there may simply just be not enough power getting through.  ESPECIALLY since the new board had a small LED that allowed me to see that power was coming through, but which blinked on and off when I tried switching the PC on.

So, one new power supply later I am now getting a long beep followed by 3 short ones.  It's an AMI Bios so that means memory problems.

Took out all the memory and, because this new board accepts single sticks I tried them all one at a time, and even tried a stick that I had laying around but which had not been in the PC previously.  Every time 1 beep followed by 3 short ones.

Additionally, the PC will not output to video, even for the POST.

My concerns are that I could change all the RAM for a whole load of cash but it is also possible that I fried the CPU and, since it is an AMD with onboard memory controller, that might cause the same POST error as bad RAM.  Other than the one spare stick I had, I have no other RAM or spare CPU to switch in.

MY question is: what should I do next?  I think I need to just buy a new CPU, although it is possible I also fried the GPU.  Again, no spare PCi-E cards to try.  Could the CPU be OK, but the problem be caused by the GPU?

Specs:
AMD Athlon 64 4200 X2
Gigabyte K8N Pro-SLi (the old one)
Asus A8N32-SLi Deluxe (new one)
2Gb RAM 400DDR (2 x Kingston matched plus 2x Corsair value matched)
Seasonic S12 500w PSU (Old one)
Jeantech 600w Modular PSU (new one)
XFX nVidia 7800GT PCi-E graphics
Creative X-Fi ExtremeGamer sound

Any suggestions gratefully received.The LED onboard should not be blinking...that board could possibly be bad.

I would try this:

Remove the MBoard from the case. Place it on a piece of foam rubber or CARDBOARD.
Hook up the PSU, one stick of RAM in the slot closest to the CPU, the vid card and a keyboard and mouse.
Power up and cross your fingers...
If it boots properly congrats you have found your problem...the MBoard was shorting on the case. Carefully re-install it using the standoffs provided. These can also be bought at a computer store.

If this method fails the next thing to try would be another known working video card. Borrow one for a day since we don't want to spend money yet.

Lastly do the same with the RAM.

If all the above produces the same results then the MBoard is DOA...do an RMA on it.

Best of Luck.

patio.   8-)Water cooling and electronics. I never did get that one.   Quote

Water cooling and electronics. I never did get that one.  

Hello all,

My mother board recently decided to give up the ghost, i replcaed it with a spare that i had lying around (exactly the same part) but when i connected my monitor the display was very poor, the colours did not show right and it looked poo. I thought that it was the AGP grpahics card SLOT that may be at fault as i had tried 3 differenct AGP card in and it all did the same. So i bought an old 3dfx voodoo 2 graphics card off ebay for a few quid. It arrived yesterday, so i installed it, after downloading an up to date xp driver, removed the old agp card and connected the monitor to the new output on the back of the graphics card. Nothing at all. Moved the monitor cable back over to the standard port and i got the same dispaly as before (rubish colour, keeps going off etc). Now if i wiggle the connector about on the old output then i can keep the display working, all be it a very poor display. But i can not get the monitor to work when connecting it to the new voodoo 2 card.

Can any one please help? I have treid to change the setting in bios when booting up to show that the pci card is the primary. I have removed the old drivers from the system but still nothing - only get a display when the monitor is connected to the standard output on the mother board

I am going to put the system back to as it was, and START from scrathc. So could someone please advise what to do. Computer will have a standard rubish agp card installed with the monitor plugged into the standard output on the motherboard. I want to install the voodoo2 edfx card and run the monitor by connecting it directly to the card.

Please help if you can. It must be something stupiod that I have DEON cause the card obvioulsy works as i am getting a display, just not when i connect the monitor to the card.This might be a stupid question but "is that a plug & play monitor" ?I'm not to sure but i think soI know [highlight]GX1-Man [/highlight]and or [highlight]Calum[/highlight] will get your an educated guess/ answer here,
my gut tells me it's PROBABLY the other mobo you put in there. I'm not much help, sorry*
  ( seems like you've done what you could at this point*)
So it works perfectly fine with the onboard graphics? WHat motherboard is this? It was IDENTICAL to the first? What killed the original? What symptoms? What about some history on the PSU and other components?Hi,
Yes it works fine with the old mother board, and yes both boards are the same. I basically bukt the pc from lots of old bits that i took from my office when they re located.
When the board went, it just stopped booting up, it would try to load and jjust freeze straight away.
I chaged the baord and now i get the display problems. I have since been advised that the voodoo 2 card does not run normal desktop/display stuff - this would be done through the standard/agp card?

I am not to sure what board it is off the top of my head, its an older hp one (if i remember correctly) I only have a 733 processor in there as i only really use the pc to surf the NET and download films. 512 sd ram
I have also tried the card in a diff pcio slot and still get the same

I was having trouble with the sound on my computer. I disabled the head phone JACK and the sound works from my speakers now.  My question is can sound come directly from the mother board?

ThanksDo you mean can the motherboard make sounds by itself? Motherboards are COMPLETELY silent, usually, except for the whirring sounds MADE by fans I suppose. Or did you mean to ask if there is a sound jack actually on the motherboard? Or what?
What computer does he have? A Dell 755 will make sound by itself.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 30, 2016, 01:40:47 AM

A Dell 755 will make sound by itself.

I was GIVEN a not working dell optiplex 390. The previous owner's 'friend' tried to fix it and might have moved some jumpers. Reading the MANUAL and searching dell site I cant determine were the jumpers should be. I want to know that they are in the proper positions. Is this INFO available? I found this (http://www.dell.com/support/Article/us/en/6099/SLN284985), but section two totally confuses me. It sounds like the jumper is being moved from the PSWD CONNECTOR to the RTCRST connector, without saying which of the 3 pins to connect. However, the picture below shows both connectors having jumpers. Note that I already reset the bios by removing the battery. So, that is not what Im trying to do here.

tks,

paulThis is a 300:

My Bluetooth connection to a speaker was OK but then it stopped and I have not been able to re-CONNECT. The COMPUTER detects the speaker but pairing goes on endlessly without completing. I tried updating all the Bluetooth drivers but they were reported as the best available. I saw that the checkbox for 'Bluetooth will be allowed to find the PC' kept becoming unchecked, and that 'Bluetooth devices will see this PC' had a yellow TRIANGLE against it.

I also tried connecting my Windows phone to the speaker, which worked fine, so it seems to be an issue with the PC. In Properties it is reported that  'additional installation is required' --- what is that and how is it done?Where are you getting these drivers from ? ?...Yellow triangle usually indicates bad/wrong driver...Hello

The Bluetooth drivers are (as far as I am aware) provided by Microsoft as part of (recently re-installed) Windows 10You need the drivers from the PC manuf. site...especially if it's a laptop.When my bluetooth stopped connecting, I've RESTARTED the computer and all was ok thenUpdate.   I tried again today to pair my speaker, with no success and with  popup error messages BUT have just taken delivery of a Bluetooth mouse (for my wife). It paired and is working fine! I am using it now.What do we make of that? I have another, identical Bluetooth speaker I so am going to charge it up and see if that pairs OK. Will report.

I have not had any success with getting drivers from the manufacturer of my Quantum View 2-in-1 Tablet.Both speakers are behaving much the same. Eventually they pair and then connect, but the sound still comes from the computer, not the speaker.

The mouse is still working, but not reliably. I keeps stopping. Sometimes repeatedly clicking buttons gets it going again, but if not restarting the computer usually works,

I note that the update we have just had installed some improvements for Bluetooth --- the ddo not seem to have helped.Bluetooth is still FAILING with speakers and the mouse (intermittant) but there is some further development. I had the same problems trying to pair / connect to my Windows phone and there seemed to be a new procedure I had not seen before. There is a popup window asking me to check if a passcode being displayed was the same on my phone. It was, but time after time it was reported as wrong and to try again. Eventually the phone paired, though not the mouse and speakers. I also read there is a new procedure for transferring files on Windows 10 (accessing a menu by clicking on the Bluetooth icon displayed in the tray). This worked, for file transfer.

What that shows is that Bluetooth is not completely bust on my system, even though it does not help with the mouse and speakers. But if this situation continues it means that Bluetooth is largely useless.  I have now bought a USB Bluetooth dongle (Cambridge Silicon Radio) as suggested to me.

It is not working. It shows up with a yellow triangle and report 'This device cannot start' Code 10. In Events I get 'further installation is required.'  Meaning what? The Bluetooth service continues to be unsatisfactory, the Bluetooth speakers still do not work.

Can anyone advise me on this, and in particular how I might get the new dongle to work as I had hoped?Code 10 indicates a hardware failure...eitheir the dongle...or the device.

I have an old Dell Dimension E510. When I press the power button, it makes noises like it's turning on, the hard drive's whirring, the fan's spinning. But the power light blinks orange. This seems to be a common problem with Dell Dimensions, but with me, after quite a long time it boots up fine. Sometimes it says it failed to start properly and asks if I want to use the last known GOOD configuration or start Windows normally, I usually say "start windows normally," and then it boots up and everything's fine (it's running Windows XP, which I know is old). I've only heard of them not turning on at all, but mine simply takes a while in the blinking state.

Could it be a software problem, since it says it failed to start? It sounds more like a hardware problem to me, since it blinks orange before anything boots. From what I've read it's usually a PSU issue, but is that not the case since it runs fine afterwards? I'd like to try a different PSU, however my only other computer has a 250w PSU according to the specs, while the E510 uses a 305w PSU. Can I just buy any 305+ watt PSU and connect it? If not, can you please recommend one (hopefully as cheap as possible)?

It has an Intel Pentium 4 CPU and 1 GB of RAM. Not really sure what else you might need...Flakey PSU...yer probably right on in your guess...
However i wouldn't go out and buy 1 for an old PC...i'd borrow a known good one from a friend...and swap it in there overnite...
You'll know by morning...I don't have any friends with PSU's to borrow. eBay has been kind to me with all of my electronics needs, I just need to know what to look for. I'm new to PC component shopping, any help would be appreciated.

EDIT: Actually I think I found a good one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEASONIC-ORIGINAL-400WATT-ATX12V-ACTIVE-PFC-F3-DESKTOP-PSU-POWER-SUPPLY-SS-401HT-/391383288858?hash=item5b20430c1a:g:38QAAOSwiYFXFOLSPower supply pictured looks to be USED. It has scratch marks as though it was installed into a case already and pulled from a build. Description of No Signs of Wear. The PICTURES provided show that its been installed into a tower at some point into a power supply bay that has spring loaded fingers which left scratch marks, so its really a used power supply and not new. However they claim to have 10 available 7 left so maybe you will get a new one vs a used one. Price tag with FREE shipping isnt bad if the power supply is a good one.

I have gotten burned on ebay with power supplies so I  no longer use ebay for power supplies and instead pay about $40 for a power supply with a warranty and easy return plan. Given your system is an old Pentium 4 or Pentium D, I can see cutting corners in cost to fix it, but just sharing that according to description and pictures they are offering these as new and the picture that shows power supply installation scratch marks means that you might be BUYING used. They claim to have a 30 day warranty and 99.5% positive track record so they should be ok.

Quote

New other (see details): A new, unused item with absolutely no signs of wear. The item may be missing the original packaging, or in the original packaging but not sealed. The item may be a factory second or a new, unused item with defects. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections.

I have a sx2855-us10p GATEWAY. It is crashing, and freezing. It is not a VIRUS. And ideas?PERHAPS you could PROVIDE some more information.

My build:
ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Crucial Ballistix Elite 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Mushkin ECO2 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive x 2
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card
Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case
Silverstone Strider Gold 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste

This is a NEW build. It has never successfully booted.

My actual build went extremely well, no problems at all. Until initial boot, that is.

When the power switch is depressed, all fans (cpu cooler and GPU fans) spin up as expected. Then the EVGA video card fans stop spinning after 15-20 seconds (My assumption is that there is no load, therefore no cooling is needed). The cpu cooler fan runs continuously as long as there is current running through the system. The video card becomes warm to the touch, as though under a light load. The LEDs on the cooler and in the case also light up. Nothing else happens. Any monitor that is attached fails to sense a data stream through the cable. I have a chassis speaker hooked up to the chassis speaker out, but have never managed to get a sound from it - this motherboard does not have a digital post code display. No matter what configuration I have tried, the fans have spun up in exactly the same way, and the lights light up. Otherwise, nothing.

When I first put the computer together, it was with video card, both sticks of RAM, and SSDs. This was my first failed boot configuration.

My diagnostic process:

I stripped the system to bare bones – CPU, mobo, CPU cooler, PSU, one stick of ram. The video is running through one of the mobo’s native HDMI outs. No change. No post codes, no monitor activity.

All psu connections have been checked, rechecked, re-re-checked, etc. Video card and RAM are always well-seated.

I have switched out the one ram stick with the loose one. No change.

Switched video cable to the second HDMI slot on the back of the mobo. Nothing.

I switched out the new monitor with a known monitor, including all cabling. No change.

I put the EVGA video card back in, hooked it up via HDMI. No change.

Then I replaced the HDMI cable with the normal computer DVI cable on the EVGA card. Tried it in both plugs on the back of the video card. No change.

Finally, I pulled a PSU that is known to be fully functional from another build, and hooked it into the system. Once again, the exact same thing occurs.

I have also reset the CMOS via the button on the back of the motherboard.

Also, pulled the build out of the case and tried it, just to make sure I wasn’t having some sort of short to the case. No change.

NOW – here’s the zinger – I couldn’t come up with any further diagnostic tests, so I decided to replace the motherboard. Upon putting the new mobo (same model) in the system, I get EXACTLY the same results. I can see one of two possibilities at this point: Either I have a bad CPU, or both sticks of RAM are bad, or I’ve somehow missed something.  I’ve never managed to get a post code out of either board.

This mobo model has no mini-PCI-e slot, or I’d hook in a diagnostic board to try to get a digital post code. It only has one full PCI-e slot and two slots for RAM. No others. Well, not counting the M.2 on the bottom.

Any ideas? And thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
When you had the motherboard running out of the case were you still using the same connections to the front panel?
I would try the motherboard, cpu and memory out of the case and use something metal to touch the power switch pins and see if you have a display.
I have found people in the past have put one of the Leds across the reset pins which can keep the motherboard in a reset state. That the reset switch is stuck doing the same thing. I had something similar happen on my build. It turned out i had attached 2 wires on my mother board in reverse positions. Try another stick of ram if you have one. Could just be a bad cpu... So hard to tell in this case.Thanks for the replies. I tried your idea - first I disconnected all front panel connections, so the header was completely FREE. Then I manually initiated contact across the power switch pins. The result was exactly what I've had with both mobos - fans spin up, I can hear the cpu cooler pump humming (which I forgot to note in my OP), and cooler/front panel LEDs light up. Releasing the contact powers it all down (of course). When the header was/is wired to the front panel in the cases of both mobos, I could/can turn the system off every time by holding down the power switch until it powers down. Pushing it again causes the power to come back on - it seems the on/off switch is the one of the only things that is actually functioning correctly. The front panel leads are all connected in accordance with the mobo installation manual pin-out.

Well i have checked every part of your design and it is all compatible and should work. You seem to know a lot about putting together systems so I haven't been suggesting  things like the 6 pin power to the motherboard being disconnected. Perhaps if you could take some pictures of the motherboard connected up and post them it might help.

 Thanks for double checking the build, Lisa_maree. I should've just posted my pcpartpicker build - would've made it easier for you. The 24-pin and EPS 8-pin connectors are socketed flush with their plugs and clicked in tight. Besides those, there just aren't many more connections that could be causing the issue, especially since disconnecting the SSDs and the video card didn't change the outcome. At this point, the only front panel connection is the power switch lead, which works fine to turn the machine on and off.

I've just ordered some different RAM in hopes that there is something about the pair that I have that my mobo hates - I don't have any extra DDR4 RAM laying around for trying-out purposes. Typically when there's no post code output, it means that something has stopped the boot sequence even before the POST can get started - in my experience it's often been a problem with RAM. In this case, it's weird b/c switching out the RAM sticks didn't solve the problem. It's hard to imagine that I got two bad sticks in one package - it's a decent brand (though I'm a G.Skill fan, personally.) We'll see if replacement RAM fixes it; if not, I guess I'll replace the CPU. Or do something else magical that you guys can think up -- I'm all out of ideas, so I guess it's time to throw money at it.

My first build was a IBM PC XT (8088-based) clone way back yonder in about 1985 or so (IIRC). Usually builds don't snocker me like this one has, but everyone needs an eye-opener now and again, right?

I took a couple of pics, but they were most uninspiring -- here's one -- not much to see since it's stripped to bare bones.

Thanks again.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I wonder if you could show a picture of the power supply label . Also with the  Video card out of the machine it appears the 12v pcie power is still connected. Could you try it with just power to the motherboard please.
Also check the back panel for anything shorting any of the ports , like an earth strip caught inside a USB port.     Update here - After my last post I took some time to get away from the build, then reassembled the entire thing outside the case. Still no boot when the power button was depressed, just fans, pumps, etc. The new ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac replacement I ordered acted exactly the same way as the first. So I ordered a new cpu. New cpu made no difference, same fans/pumps. I then bought an MSI Z170I Gaming Pro AC mobo and reassembled the build outside the case using new mobo and new cpu. All other components were the same as previous builds. IT BOOTED immediately.

I then disassembled and rebuilt the system using the new (good) CPU but with the replacement ASRock board that I still had in hand. Would not boot, and acted exactly as the other (first) ASRock board that I had received (fans/pumps only) --- This mobo is DOA. I then reassembled the system around the MSI board (all other same components), but dropped in the first  i5-6600K I had received. The MSI board has diagnostic LEDs, unlike the ASRock, and the bright red CPU LED came on and stayed on. The system refused to boot. CPU is DOA. Crazy, I know. Definitely a first for me - I've never had an Intel CPU do this. Burned up one once upon a time, purely PEBCAK, but that's another story.

So, my conclusions are that the second ASRock board and the first CPU were both definitely DOA. What are the chances of that? There's really no way to know about the first ASRock board, b/c I sent it back before I had a chance to test it with a second known-to-be-good CPU. This build has challenged me like no other I've ever taken on. As it stands, I finally have a working system that's built around the MSI board. Well, it's working outside the case, that is. We'll see what happens when it gets rebuilt in the case. I'll drop a note here to let you know how that works out.

Thanks for you suggestions along the way. I hope my process as posted here may help someone here in the future.


 I'd spend more...and stay away from both ASROCK...and MSI personally...I'm a long-time fan of both Gigabyte and Asus, but ASRock and MSI have both put a great deal of blood, sweat, and R&D into their enthusiast/gaming boards over the past 5-6 years-- I think that, while your reservations may be spot-on for those companies in the past, their products have come a long way.

I appreciate a conservative viewpoint, and often tend towards one myself, but in this case, I think you're painting with a very broad brush.

As a matter of fact, the only motherboards that I've ever consistently had problems with through the years happen to have all been Gigabyte boards. Even so, I have three computers at the moment that are built on GB mobos, and still think highly of GB.

And, as a final point, I'd say that $189 isn't exactly a "low-priced" board, in the case of the MSI board that my system is now built on. The components that are soldered in it are as high quality as those found on any Asus board out there. If you don't believe me, dig into the spec sheets and you'll see that both companies are using decent components in their performance boards these days. This MSI board (and the ASRock board as well, as a matter of fact) is far more thoughtfully designed than the last Asus board that I used, which, AMONG other things, had all the SATA ports pointing toward the front of the case instead of how a normal rational being would put them, namely facing the side of the case so you could PLUG something into them without having to remove the freaking board from the case....

I find it interesting that you didn't suggest staying away from Intel CPUs even though that was half of my problem with troubleshooting this build. =)

At any rate, no harm in having opinions. Everyone has them, along with sundry other undesirable and smelly bits.

Hi

In years of building 100's of PC's we have never had a DOA CPU or Motherboard. The automatic testing that is done at every stage of assemble insures that no product leaves the factory faulty whether Intel or AMD or MSI or Gigabyte or asus not sure about Asrock. They all test every board and every component on the board visually as well as electronically. So why do some people  get faulty boards and CPU's . Well they were not faulty when they left the factory so perhaps it is the way they are handled  when being installed.
Good that you now have a going setup. Feel sorry for the supplier when they get all the faulty parts back. I haven't been following this thread but just wanted to comment on a few things...

Quote from: Lisa_maree on April 29, 2016, 11:32:05 PM

In years of building 100's of PC's we have never had a DOA CPU or Motherboard.

The automatic testing that is done at every stage of assemble insures that no product leaves the factory faulty whether Intel or AMD or MSI or Gigabyte or asus not sure about Asrock.

far more thoughtfully designed than the last Asus board that I used, which, among other things, had all the SATA ports pointing toward the front of the case instead of how a normal rational being would put them, namely facing the side of the case so you could plug something into them without having to remove the freaking board from the case....

Hi all.

My sister has asked me to look at her PC - a Dell Dimension 2350 with Pentium 4 2.5GHZ (socket 478) processor, as she is experiencing frequent crashing.  I quickly identified the problem - her processor heatsink is loose as the mount (the black plastic base portion screwed ONTO the motherboard) the processor heatsink sits in is broken and the clips (holding the heatsink on top of the processor) which normally CLIP onto the mount/base portion are missing.  Therfore I'm confidently guessing her processor is overheating causing the crashing.

My question is this - how do I obtain these replacement parts?  Having never purchased either a retail boxed motherboard or retail boxed heatsink I'm not sure which one - if either - would come with the necessary parts?

Her current heatsink is a Coolermaster 1U581 0240 (according to the markings on it) and it's working fine if the PC tower is left running on its side (so gravity is holding the heatsink in contact with the processor).  Ideally I am looking to source the replacement mount/base and clips for the heatsink.

Her motherboard is unbranded (as far as I can tell) and has the serial number CN-07W080-70821-2AV-G0KP (looking at the description on Dells website for the Dimension this is the standard motherboard that came with the Dell when purchased.

Any pointers gratefully received - thanks all  I'm not sure about specific replacement parts if you're looking to fix the current heatsink/fan, but you can head over to www.newegg.com and buy a new replacement heatsink/fan without having to PURCHASE a new CPU or mobo. Just make sure that the form factors match up.As Tagelmo said, any Socket 478 heatsink/fan would work, as long as it is rated to work with that speed of processor, eg don't buy one only rated to work with up to 2GHz as it won't cool that 2.5GHz properly.
Also, make sure that it will physically fit in her case - check the dimensions.
Newegg is a good source of parts and reasonably cheap - if you're in the US.
Finally, make sure the overheating PC is not used as excessive heat may damage the processor.OK thanks both.  Being fairly cheap I'll go with a whole replacement heatsink/fan combo and hope the clips I need come with it.

As for newegg.com, being based outside the US this is no good to me (I live in the UK).  The majority of US sites don't ship outisde the US or US territories - very frustrating at TIMES!Try some of the small repair SHOPS in your area...i'm sure you will find what you need.

Also get a tube of Arctic Silver thermal compound for the re-assembly.

patio.   8-) Quote

OK thanks both.  Being fairly cheap I'll go with a whole replacement heatsink/fan combo and hope the clips I need come with it.

As for newegg.com, being based outside the US this is no good to me (I live in the UK).  The majority of US sites don't ship outisde the US or US territories - very frustrating at times!

Was wondering if anyone knew of any good tools to deal with a older 300GB Hard drive connected via USB 2.0 that while copying the data from this drive to another external drive, while working on a different system while this was happening I heard a USB disconnect SOUND and then when it made a reconnect sound it came up asking to format the external hard drive.

I powered down the 300GB Hard drive so that it wouldnt write any changes to this drive.

Powered the drive back on and it wants to format the drive so the file tables seem to be messed up.

Checking here to see if anyone has any tools to try safely on this drive to fix the borked file system of the drive?

I have a program CALLED GetDataBack NTFS but its a very slow running program to recover files. Before I use this tool I figured I'd check to see if there are file system correction tools available which might be quicker to getting the data back. Quote

Hard drive connected via USB 2.0

Hi there guys

Having some real troubles with my PC atm, I've been having problems for over a year or two now, with varying intensity, but currently I am experiencing more crashes than ever because I am not using any workarounds to reduce the symptoms.

I recently bought another motherboard (ASUS RAMPAGE II GENE) as my other one (ASUS PT6) is KNOWN to have issues with a design flaw causing the RAM modules to short circuit with the case, back then what would happen is, if the PC starts while recognising all RAM sticks, it would BSOD and then start with 1 RAM stick disabled, and would be stable until restart but with less RAM.

Now my PC recognises all RAM (16GB) consistently but I am having a wide variety of crashes.

For instance some of the BSOD errors I am getting are:

- PFN_LIST_CORRUPT

- SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION

- MEMORY_MANAGEMENT

All from today,

Some BSOD's from a few days ago before removing any overclocking and some additional drivers were

- PAGE_ERROR_IN_NON_PAGED_AREA

- IRQL_NOT_LESS_THAN_EQUAL

Sometimes that crashes do not produce a BSOD for instance:

- Screen freezes and sound loops

- Restart without warning

- Computer struggles to boot a few times, especially when turned on for the first time in a while (cold boot)

I have tried numerous things but cannot pinpoint the problem, and SEEMS perhaps as if they are multiple issues all adding up to create an incredibly unstable, and frustrating system... I am a musician, game developer, and film maker as well as general gamer and whatever, so I need to use the computer for pretty much EVERYTHING and this is really causing me distress, I bought the motherboard in an attempt to solve the issues, but apart from my PC now recognising all RAM modules consistently (used the memoryOK button included on the motherboard), I am worse off than before perhaps, after spending all my money on the board.

My system is

Windows 7 64bit

Intel i7 920

Corsair Dominator 16gb (4x4gb)

Radeon 7890 2gb Graphics Card

My CPU and Graphics Card temperatures are very low and never overheating.

Also my computer does not seem to want to create minidump files despite me DISABLING and re-enabling the option in control panel.

Please if anyone is able to help I would be very grateful...

Many thanks!

Hey Guys,

I have a nice little machine, and by little i mean an old MONSTER. Its a Dell Precision T5400 Workstation i PICKED up. Dual Xeon 5450's thats 2 Quad Core Chips! Shes quick, but needs RAM. Going no where on 2Gb only.

So looking at Ebay i have 2 options. Micron Ram or Hynix. Which do you think is better?

The Micron sticks
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/351447417431?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Or the Hynix:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Hynix-8GB-2x4GB-PC2-5300F-DDR2-667MHZ-ECC-Fully-Buffered-FB-DIMM-Memory-Ram-/181947916296?hash=item2a5cf0e008:g:r60AAOSwwE5WXW9G

I've already added a nice AMD HD 5770 1Gb Card to this machine as well as a nice used 160GB Sata and it runs windows 7 Pro. Could be a peppy little machine. Got it for next to nothing and was hoping to get some use out of that 2009 raw retired server power.

All comments, feedback and or suggestions are more then Welcome. Thanks againA guy on Tom's Hardware is saying that Micron is the same company as crucial, so it should be great. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/32316-30-micron-good
A guy on Overclock.net is saying that Hynix is the world's second-largest memory chipmaker so they're legit. http://www.overclock.net/t/1310542/any-opinions-on-the-hynix-brand-ram

Just type "is insert your brand here ram is good" on Google and you'll find a lot of useful information  Thank-you. That doesnt make my decision any easier but thanks For what you want this for, I wouldn't say there's anything to sway you towards one of those over the other, I'd probably go with the Micron just because it's a little cheaper.

In virtually all computers nowadays we use Dynamic Random Access Memory (DRAM) for our main volatile storage and Static Random Access Memory (SRAM) as a cache memory for higher speed memory reading/writing built into the CPU.

So why don't we use SRAM in place of DRAM and free up space in our processors?

I already know that SRAM is more expensive but by how much? Surely enthusiasts would pay many dollars for even faster RAM and CPU designers would be happy to have more space to work with.As you said, it's more expensive. It's about 6 times the price for SRAM of the same capacity as DRAM. Of course, that only applies where SRAM can actually be manufactured in the same size. Die size for SRAM also grows quite large at higher capacities. It also CONSUMES far more power.

If SRAM were used as the main memory of a PC, aside from the higher cost, the RAM that get's installed would be large enough that cases would need to be designed specifically to hold each SRAM Shelf that get's installed. Each SRAM shelf would need an effective cooling solution, equivalent to perhaps the air-channel-cowling used on graphics cards to keep the SRAM cool. It would also require a much more powerful power supply than is typically found in a PC.

it simply isn't worth the requirement to re-engineer a standard to accomodate RAM shelves rather than RAM sticks, and the added price of the power usage and cooling to use the higher speed SRAM as main memory.

Also much of the performance advantage from SRAM on the CPU die itself is a result of literally being physically close to the processor core. If the CPU had to reach across the bus for every memory access, it wouldn't matter how fast the memory is because the distance would impair performance below what the on-chip cache's currently have, and since a large majority of CPU memory access is able to access cached data acquired from main memory via the prefetcher, it would likely result in a net slowdown in performance.I like the reply by BC.

The OP may have an erroneous idea. The CPU will  generate a refresh for the RAM at regular intervals. This has been a built-in feature from the early days** . It would do nothing to make the CPU  smaller, faster, sexy or anything.

Perhaps the OP received his training in the no shoelace school. At that place  teachers taught students not to have shoelaces because it was a waste of time. 

** The Intel 8080 did not have refresh, but the Zilog Z-80  did.Geek-9pm, I have no formal computer training (aside from a laughable ICT GCSE from my school days). WIKIPEDIA is my friend. Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 10, 2016, 02:05:18 PM

The OP may have an erroneous idea. The CPU will  generate a refresh for the RAM at regular intervals. This has been a built-in feature from the early days** . It would do nothing to make the CPU  smaller, faster, sexy or anything.
Perhaps the OP received his training in the no shoelace school. At that place  teachers taught students not to have shoelaces because it was a waste of time. 

This paper INTRODUCES a novel ultra-low-power SRAM. A large power reduction is obtained by the use of four new techniques that allow for a wider and better trade-off between area, delay and active and passive energy consumption for low-power embedded SRAMs. The design targets wireless applications that require a moderate performance at an ultra-low-power consumption. The implemented design techniques consist of a more efficient memory databus, the exploitation of the dynamic read stability of SRAM cells, a new low-swing write technique and a distributed decoder. An 8-KB 5T SRAM was fabricated in a 0.18-mum technology. The measurement results confirm the feasibility and the usefulness of the proposed techniques. A reduction of active power consumption with a factor of 2 is reported as compared to the current state of the art. The results are generalized towards a 32-KB SRAM.

Hello,

My 23" LG IPS237L-BN monitor is randomly turning off and I have to turn it on manually or even plug out and in the power source cable. Sometimes it doesn't happen for a week but sometimes it does few times per hour, which is driving me extremely crazy, especially, when I am watching a movie. I have tested the monitor connected to a different laptop and the PROBLEM persisted and when I was using a different monitor on my laptop, the problem didn't appear so the problem is definitely in the monitor. Resetting the settings didn't HELPED at all. I guess, that the problem is probably in touch buttons (the most stupid idea ever!), but does anybody have an idea, how can I solve my problem? Probably i will have to disassemble it and clean contacts or something like that, but is here someone who encountered the same or similar problem and successfully solved it? THANKS a lot in advance!!!!Have you CHECKED your temperatures on that laptop ? ?

The fact it occurs on 2 different monitors points to the laptop as the culprit... Quote from: patio on May 09, 2016, 08:04:34 AM

Have you checked your temperatures on that laptop ? ?

The fact it occurs on 2 different monitors points to the laptop as the culprit...

Is it still under warranty?

Hello and thank you for reading my thread. I am having troubles with the ram for my computer. My current rig has
OS: windows 7 pro 64 bit
Motherboard: Hp pro 3130 Microtower PC
Processor: Intel i5 cpu 650 3.2 ghz
graphics card: Geforce GTX 750 Ti
My problems are concerning my ram. I currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade so I can run fallout 4 at a better frame rate. I bought 2 4GB Gskill ripjaw ram sticks.
The exact info on the ram is as follows,
Current: Crucial 2gb 240 pin dimm 256mx64 DDR3
Elpida: 2gb 2Rx8 PC3-10600U-9-10-B0
The new ones: DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 1.5v
PC3- 12800 4Gx2 Intel XMP Ready.

So my tower should be able to handle up to 16gb of ram. however when I try installing the new ram my tower boots up and the computer monitor just flashes on and off and doesn't get power. This is definitely not a display issue because the problem does not occur when the rig only has the old ram. So my questions are do I have the correct type of RAM? I made sure it was 240 pin ddr3, is there other requirements I have to meet? Are the new sticks I bought compatible? Do I need to modify options in my bios? If my current sticks are incompatible I am thinking about returning them and downloading crucial part picker and just buying whatever they tell me to. I am very exhausted with this rig and this is the last piece of a very burdensome project. I am not very tech savvy either and this is my FIRST computer I have modified at all. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Yes... check the Mboard manuf. site for which RAM is in the QVL LIST...
QVL = factory tested for that PC.
I've found some HP models can be very picky with RAM and even CPUs (had a Pro 3300 which claimed a CPU which was on the SUPPORTED CPU list, er, wasn't supported, and it refused to boot).
From some Googling, it seems several others have reported issues with upgrading the RAM on this model, from this thread Crucial recommended a specific part number, saying the 3130 needs low density memory (part number CT51264BA160B which is a 4GB module).  It does sound like you have a compatibility issue with the RAM you've bought, in any case it's not working for you so I would look to RETURN that.

Hope this helps.

I have this motherboard:
http://www.supermicro.com/manuals/motherboard/X58/X8DTT.pdf

It has strange 20 pin adapter. I have some new atx psu's.
How could i make it so that the thing actually turns on and provides power to the cpu.
I tried running the rail VOLTAGES by copying the voltages and it would TURN on half the board.
Running it only with the molex turns on the other half?

Pls help. Is this a handshaking issue? Can it be circumvented or is it something on the board that I haven't activated like with pin connections. I am open to all suggestions that aren't "just buy another".Can you please keep this issue confined to one thread.  You now have 4 threads on the exact same issue.I keep getting the same answer on those. I changed the subject to my real newest question. I now set those as solved.http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12212
found it myself.

Ok so now the motherboard fully has power. It won't post though is it possible that the rails aren't supplying enough power?
or is something wrong?What is wrong? You are into something that is over your head.
Look here: (PHOTO of specs for HP 850 watt server supply)

This is from the spec of an HP power unit used for a HP server. It is not like any desktop PSU. It is a real brute. These are custom built for the companies that sell servers. They are not intended to be sold for general use on consumer desktops.

Not only will you have to get the boltholes and currents right, you will ha need  the proprietary circuits  to start and shut down the unit.

Or to put it another way, those who work with these things in an IT department would never attempt to 'hack' and standard PSU to work with such a BRUTAL motherboard. It requires a 800 +   watt PSU.

Thank you. Now I got it. Sorry!

I did get it to power on with the lower supply but I guess it holds out on me because of the design psu strength. I naturally thought that since it could not possible (no way in *censored*) use that much power for the 2 95W chips it would be fine.So then, would a:

 Dell Poweredge R410

for example, work with the system I set up? i.e. a 500w atx or does it necessarily need a redundant psu?

This question has been asked over and over again. Nobody reads anymore.
Do I need a server PSU to go with a server motherboard? If so what type?
Similar to these questions:
 
   Can I use tires  from my Chevrolet on my  on my John Deer tractor?
   If I donate my garden house to the local fire department, will they use it?
   Can a 40 year old women wear a training bra?
   Will my old Commodore 64 programs work on my new PC?
 
You can Google:
Dell Poweredge R410 power supply
And see the right answers.

Also, you can find:
http://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/pedge/en/server-poweredge-r410-technical-guide-book.pdf
Which is the tech guide from Dell.
The correct power supply is about $110 from eTechNext.com or from Dell. But not Amazon and Newegg and stores that do consumer stuff. 
No, As I have said repeatedly you need the exact model of PSU designed for that board.  The Poweredge R410 uses a standard ATX pinout of PSU.Server motherboards are often made to fit in a short rack mount chassis. So the PSU has to be a odd SHAPE that fits inside the rack chassis.
The kind of thin is call 'relay rack' in the industry.  Standard size is 19 inch.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/19-inch_rack

So, even if he  used a PC type PSU, it will not fit in the chassis. But the he  did not say what enclosure he was going to use. Bot using an enclosure will violate fire and safety
standards and will violate you home insurance policy.
Got it to work. Rewired a 1000w server psu and got windows 7 on it working like a breeze!
It was the mobo all along, it was broken. So it goes to show, you can diy almost anything!mrfresh - How did you end up rewiring the power supply? I am looking at doing the very same thing for my SuperMicro board, which appears to be the same board you were using at the start of the thread.

Currently trying to pull the wires out of the connector in order to re-position them.

Hi, I have a problem with my computer, it continuously restart before i even get to the log in screen. A buddy from work said he had fixed the problem and it works perfectly fine where he is. I'm thinking that there COULD be a problem with my mouse/keyboard/monitor, yet im not sure how to know which ONE is the problem. He took it to his house and he said there was no trouble what so evere and the computer just booted up. Not sure what to do!  :-?Details on the machine, hardware, OS, what happened prior to this, etc. would be helpful.

Try plugging in to another outlet for starters. Quote

Hi, I have a problem with my computer, it continuously restart before i even get to the log in screen. A buddy from work said he had fixed the problem and it works perfectly fine where he is. I'm thinking that there could be a problem with my mouse/keyboard/monitor, yet im not sure how to know which one is the problem. [highlight]He took it to his house and he said there was no trouble what so evere and the computer just booted up[/highlight]. Not sure what to do!  :-?

Hi,

I have a Dell C610 laptop, 1GHz, 40Mb HDD, 256Mb RAM, running WINXP Pro.  Laptop is normally used in it's Dell docking station, but not always.  Docking station is networked (wired) to desktop computer.  I was using the laptop yesterday browsing the web when Windows locked up.  No blue screen, cursor GONE, COULD not navigate by keyboard, but image still being displayed on the monitor.  I held the power button down for 4 seconds to shut the machine down.  When I tried to reboot, power came on but no BIOS display on the screen, no video at all as monitor was in SLEEP mode and did not wake up.  I could hear hard drive spinning up.  After about 15 seconds, the laptop powered itself off.  I tried booting free of the docking station, still no video and powered itself off after 15 secs.  I replaced hard drive with a good spare with same results.  Removed RAM and reseated.  Same results.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  A+ certified tech here but have little experience with laptop repair.  THANKS.

Hi There, I will try to do my very best to describe the problem that I am having.
I YESTERDAY replaces a old broken slave Hard Drive with a brand new Seagate ST3802110A. I have CONNECTED it correctly and started the computer. The new drive got recognised but you get a black screen pause for about 3 minutes until the Windows logo appears. When I disconnect the new drive and only start the computer with the primary hard drive also a Seagate ST320414A you get a normal startup.
I am really puzzled as why the computer takes so long to start-up with this new Hardrive, I have re-checked the IDE cables and slave is Gray and Primary is Black, The bios settings for both Drives are on AUTO. I have played around with the settings for the new ST3802110A hard drive but then it locks up just after rebooting.
 
So for the moment I am running this computer with a long start-up procedure Don't get me wrong the new HD is working when windows actualy starts.
 
Hope you really can help me,
With patients I am waiting for your reply.
a few question for you, what show in cmos setup screen, did you see your old and new hard drive? did it show on correct Master and slave? did you see your new hard drive in windows and is it working?Settings seem to be ok. Primary HD is the Primary one and Slave is the new HD. Both are on AUTO settings (not manual)
And once windows Xp has started al drives work correctly
ok, i not sure what happen, but there's something you can try...
1st, check your both hard drive JUMPER setting, primary master hard drive set to master, slave set to slave, do not set to cable select(CS)
2nd, change your POWER cable for new hard drive to other( if your power supply have extra, or else temp swap it with CD drive .)