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Does anyone know if it is possible to reset my "Compaq 9500 17" CRT monitor" to factory DEFAULTS?What do you mean?
Why does it need resetting?I don't get this question at all. Quote

I don't get this question at all.

What are the pixels on the four sides of the screen?

I recently moved the subwoofer for my 4.1 Altec Lansing ADA885 speaker system and noticed that it left a red sticky substance on the plastic chair mat where it had been sitting.  There is no visible spot on the bottom of the subwoofer that I can see where it is coming from.  Does anyone know what this could be and if it could cause problems.  Thanks.Does it still WORK OK?
Feel the subwoofer - are there strange patches?
Are you sure it came from the subwoofer?
It may have been there before, or something may have been SPILT there.
I'd say if it's not playing up and the substance doesn't cause problems, leave it be - I have no idea what it could be or what could have caused it to start leaking.
I must say, this is a bit different from the usual questions
There is NOTHING out of the ordinary on the bottom of the subwoofer.  This is the second place I have moved it and it has left a stain in both places.  After looking closer, I did NOTICE a small red spot on one of the screws on the bottom of the subwoofer.  I know this is not your normal troubleshooting question, but I wasn't sure where else to look.  Thanks.Very strange.
Having never opened up a subwoofer, I can't really advise further.
Maybe GET in touch with Altec Lansing tech support?

I have a PNY Verto 7600GS, 256MB GDDR2 ,128-pit, 12 pixel pipelines ,pci-express etc etc etc.
It works amazing! One thing: I cant seem to get the second monitor working. I plugged in the DVI-to-VGA adapter and plugged my second monitor in. I boot up the PC. The first monitor works fine (the one on the native VGA port) the second one REPORTS that blinks which means there's no connection. i went into disply properties to no avail. please, if any1 can help.As the GX1-MAN    would say " google is a wonderful thing- "[highlight]to use[/highlight]" !

http://realtimesoft.com/multimon/faq.asp#MultimonModesDid you do this?:

1.Right-click the desktop, and then click Properties.

2.In the DisplayProperties dialog box, click the Settings tab.

3.Click the Display list and select your second monitor.

4.Select the Extend my WINDOWS desktop onto this monitor option. Click Apply or OK.I'm trying to use multi-monitor mode. yes i already tried the standard windows method. Thats why i didnt try google. Sorry about that though. I'm positive the CARD supportds it:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814133192 Quote

Did you do this?:

1.Right-click the desktop, and then click Properties.

2.In the DisplayProperties dialog box, click the Settings tab.

3.Click the Display list and select your second monitor.

4.Select the Extend my Windows desktop onto this monitor option. Click Apply or OK.

I'm trying to use multi-monitor mode. yes i already tried the standard windows method.

Hello,

Last night we had a Hard Disk crash and as some of you know this is a very stressful  thing and keeps you awake for two days or so. It is 20 hours later and most accounts are restored. We need a LOT of server tweaking the next COUPLE of days but ok that is something we can live with. All accounts are on the same IP now and that NEEDS some them sheerlocking.

Anyways, we now have a bad HD but with some couple of gigs from a customer which backup failed and now he wants to try if a firm specialized in salvaging data from bad HD's can rescue the 'lost' data.

Anyways, is there any data recovery services or can you people arrange something for us? And do some of you have experience with this kind of services?

Thank you.
Being a System Administrator, I understand the importance of the lost data. We have a backup server to have online backup. But, I ALSO keep a track of data recovery companies. Have u guys ever heard about Salvage Data Recovery Lab. Its in 76 Progress DRIVE Corporate Park; Stamford, CT 06902?  You can have a little search on Internet. I think they have good technology and experts. I heard of them from quite a few friends of mine.   I’ve only this much knowledge. May be this will help you.

I'm having trouble with iTunes recognising where my mp3 files are as they're on an external HARD drive.  I think it's because the hard drives and external devices choose different drive LETTERS each time I boot up and TURN them on.

Does anyone know of a way to allocate a drive eg (F) Drive to a PARTICULAR device so that it remains consistent??

Regards,

NickSee this: How to change drive letter assignments in WINDOWS XP

I started having a problem with my wireless USB mouse a few days ago and I can't SEEM to FIND a solution that works.  Every few times that I click the left mouse button, it will act as though I'm holding the button down even though my finger is nowhere near it.  It's made CLICKING on links and buttons a real annoyance, since the mouse keeps trying to drag instead of clicking.  I've replaced the batteries, resynched the mouse and its receiver, installed new software, cleaned the lens, even checked the inside, and I can't seem to find the problem.  It was WORKING fine about a week ago, and then I moved back from home to my dorm.  I don't know if something happened along the way, but at any rate it's starting to drive me nuts!

Any help is greatly appreciated.  The mouse is a Pocketmouse Pro Wireless, and I'm running Windows XP + Service Pack 2 with a an Intel 1.6 Ghz processor.  If there's any other information I can give that might help, by all means let me know.if still under waranty, sent for RMA,Control Panel --> mouse --> tick box near the bottom - is it ticked?
It's called Clicklock, and the EFFECT of enabling it is the same as the problem you have.
Hope this helps.

Computer specs:
Intel D865PERL Motherboard
Intel Celeron 340 2.93Ghz 533FSB Socket 478
3  Ultra 512MB PC3200 DDR 400MHz CL3


I had a program running and went to insert a DVD.  When I did this, the computer shut off.  I went to boot it back up but heard a "pop".  Now, the green light is the only thing comming on.  The green light comes on on the motherboard also.  No fans start running and there is no beeps or anything....just the green light.  Did I fry something and what could have been the cause?  Thanks in advance.
If the green lights are on then it is recieving power. However I think the pop could of been the power supply that just ended. Do you have another power supply to try out.

What the WATT on your power supply?
How long you have had it?
What devices are inside? Ex. 2 Hard Drive, 1 CD Drve etcc...


1. Open your case and see if there is any burnt smell. Usually if something pops or fried inside the computer there should be some sort of odor.

Thanks for replying.

I think the power is 450 watts.
I built this computer last year so it's about 1 year old.
I have 1 SATA 250 GIG HD.
1 DVD player/cd burner
1 DVD burner
1 floppy

I didn't smell a burnt smell.  What could have caused this?There are 2 simple things that can cause a computer to suddenly pop. One is if the computer has been straining the power supply. ex Trying to take more power then the power supply can give.

Another reason is if the power supply accidently surged into the computer, ex accidently giving it to much power to a component and accidently frying something. Storm, or to many ELECTRIC outlets.

Do you have a old computer to test out the power supply? If you plug in the power supply to another computer and it works then it is another issue. Check the power supply first.

Also are you USING a surge protector and is it grounded?


If the power supply works then you have to test your computer hardware to see if it is a damage hardware. the basic you need in the computer is a CPU and RAM just leave 1 RAM in and the CPU unplug everything and remove the hardware and try to start it up. If everything seems normal then it is not any of those 2 components. You can slowly add each piece again 1 at a time to find out what kind of hardware could have failed.

I never actually had any hardware fail on me other then the power supply that poped on me when I turned it on one day.OK.  I'll try that when I get home.  Thanks.  One more question.  If it is the motherboard, how will I know it is the motherboard and not something else.  How can I test the motherboard?OK.  I tried to just do minimal and the same thing happened.  I noticed my cpu fan/heat sink was pretty dusty.  Could I have over heated the cpu or motherboard or both?  I have a fan on the power supply and a smaller fan on the side of my case.  Should that be enough or should I get another fan?BTW, if I do need to buy a new motherboard/cpu bundle, any suggestions on what type of socket to get?I am sure someone here can recomend a better motherboard and CPU if you need to replace it. I am not the kind of person that goes for the latest and greatest. (*my screen name*) There are alot of people here who are more updated... I mean more knowledgeable about motherboards that are out in todays market.

Sorry for the abrupt sign off yesterday. I had a Java class that was about to start so to answer your questions:

1. To Check your motherboard you need just a CPU and RAM. when you turn it on everything should here the computer just running and starting normal. If it seems normal then plug in your video card next. It wont load anything but at least you can see the BIOS screen and know it is working.

If the comptuter fails to start property. Check the RAM and CPU and see if any damages are on them. I am sure no one carries an extra CPU around and I do not want to make you go out and buy something if the motherboard is fried UNLESS you plan on buying a motherboard that can support the same CPU socket.

2. The CPU fan should be adquetly enough to cool the CPU if you used the same one that came with the box. (Under normal circumstances) I have no idea where you place your computer. is it on the floor? Do you make sure that the back is not to close to the wall so it can ventlate easy? The fans you have should be enough unless you have a very powerful video card with alot of fans built right into them.

3. Motherboards nowadays are built that when an overheating is detected 2 things can happen. It will automatically reset the computer for you many times and drive you crazy or it will just completley turn off on you without warning. The pop could be an indication if a hardware failed on you when you were using it but this will be a first for me. It might be pretty hard to diagnosis without visual. trying to picture the computer in my head.
I took it in to a shop and they said it is the power supply.  Only thing is that my roomate wanted it fixed now and is willing to pay them $150 for a new power supply.  I told him, he's nuts cause I could do it for like $50.  But, I guess problem solved.BTW, thanks Windows98 for your help.   I wish I could get $150 for changing out a PSU.

I'm finally getting around to using a brand new WD 3TB My Book External HD. Is there a way to format it to NTFS (Windows 7 Pro 64-bit) without all the loaded bloatware? You just plug the external drive into your computer, right click it in Windows Explorer, choose "Format" in the context menu, and select NTFS from the file system dropdown. That's all.

I don't know what you mean about "loaded bloatware". Perhaps you could explain? Do you mean pre-installed WD software? If you format the drive, that will all be gone.
Nope, just the loaded WD software. I mispoke. Quote from: jonnyD on March 10, 2016, 02:04:30 PM

Nope, just the loaded WD software. I mispoke.

I want to hook my laptop to my external monitor. Yes I have the VGA hookup...and did that FINE...works great. Now if I close my laptop up the image will not appear on the monitor, right? I still have to USE my laptop keyboard or can I hook up and external mouse and keyboard? My desktop went to hardware heaven a few days ago and my laptop screen is difficult for these old eyes to see , not to mention the strain on my neck from looking down at my laptop on my desk. Can ANYONE help me out ?Thanks in advance  Yes you can hook up an USB mouse and Keyboard to laptops. Quote from: bizzyazab on April 05, 2016, 11:41:07 AM

Now if I close my laptop up the image will not appear on the monitor, right?

Software is updated, full cartridge,  still CHURNS out blank pages, now nozzle check is not printing anything, cleaned the head. Quote from: runninbare on March 05, 2014, 08:50:01 AM

Software is updated, full cartridge,  still churns out blank pages, scanned a picture on photosuite, it printed out good with all colors, so the cartridges & JETS are working, but wont print out text.

It's been months since I've been RECEIVING "A disk read error occurred. Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart" error and I don't know exactly why. This error OCCURS MINIMUM 2-3 times a week and the only solution I find to remove is to wait for sometime and restart my computer again and again for at least 5-6 times. Now I'm a bit confused that whether this problem is associated with my HDD only or some other hardware too.

Also, even if my computer starts and works in its normal phase it lags a LOT! even with programs like Chrome.

PC Specs:
Operating System: Windows 8.1 64-bit
Motherboard: Gigabyte B85M-DS3H
Memory: 8192MB RAM
Card name: Intel(R) HD GRAPHICS 4600
HardDisk: 500 GB

I basically use my computer for video editing with softwares like AfterEffects, Premiere pro etc.Hi
You could check the hard drive with  HDtune pro trial from here  http://www.hdtune.com/
First check the hard drive health anything highlighted in red is of concern .
If everything in the health list is ok. Run the bench MARK that will show how fast the hard drive is reading over the whole surface of the disks.
If you are going to need to replace the hard drive  consider downloading a copy of EaseUS Todo Backup Free 9.1 from here

http://www.todo-backup.com/products/home/free-backup-software.htm

This will help you backup or copy the hard drive

Hi There..I have just purchased these components new and WANTED to ask,as the maximum speed any DDR3 Memory will run at on this MOTHERBOARD is 1600/12800mhz  if I purchased say PC3 14900-DDR3 1866 would this be backwards compatable and run at slower speed max 1600mhz..I don't want to damage my board and cannot find this information in my Ausus Handbook or on the Asus Support Website?
Many THANKS MichaelI believe it would be safe to USE that memory (Motherboard supports 1866 overclocked, but CPU does not state support). Either the motherboard would just RETURN a memory error beep code or would automatically underclock the RAM. A lot of possible outcomes here though as it depends on CPU, Mobo & the RAM in question. What memory are you thinking of purchasing?

Out of curiosity though, why do you want to buy RAM that is not rated with your other components?



Quick links for any other forum users to help:
Asus AM1M-A  http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/AM1MA/specifications/
AMD Athlon 5150 http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Jaguar/AMD-Athlon%205150%20-%20AD5150JAH44HM.html

I am having a terrible time printing a legal-sized Excel spreadsheet on my office LASERJET, and I hope someone can help me.  Excel is the 2002 version, and the printer is an HP LaserJet 4 (older than the dinosaurs, but still a very good printer).

My spreadsheet is set up in the Excel printing options to print landscape on legal paper.  The printer has two trays; one that tucks underneath that, as far as I can tell, will only hold letter-sized paper.  That's the tray that gets used most.  There is also a flip-out tray on the front which I've used many times for feeding different colors of letter-sized paper, envelopes and labels, etc., so the tray works fine.  When I have printed from this flip-out tray, the lighted button labeled "ONLINE" on the printer turns off.  Pressing the button turns the light back on and printing starts without a problem, unless I'm trying to print something on legal paper.  When I try to print on legal, the ONLINE light goes out and the little screen on the printer reads, "PC LOAD LEGAL".  The obvious solution, loading in legal-sized paper and pushing the ONLINE button (which works so well for envelopes and such) does not work.  The light doesn't come back on and the message "PC LOAD LEGAL" remains unchanged, and I have to turn the printer's power off and back on to make that go away.  

I've DECIDED the problem is not Excel, because legal-sized documents won't print from Word either.  I think it must have something to do with the feed tray selection.  I have the following choices: Automatically Select, Auto Select, UPPER Paper Tray, Manual Paper Feed, Lower Paper Tray, Envelope Feeder, and Large Capacity.  It will print if I select Manual Paper Feed, but then I have to stand at the printer and press the ONLINE button to feed each page.  Since the ultimate goal here is for my 78-year-old BOSS to be able to print a 30 page report without my help, that option isn't really viable.  

Does anyone have any idea what I could be doing differently?  I'd really appreciate any advice.  Please let me know if more information is needed.  Thanks!Have you checked HP's site for help?

Alan <><  I did, but the closest information I could find related specifically and only to envelopes and Mac OS, which I don't have a problem with.  I'm stumped!   :-?

I did locate this information, and I'm just positive it would help if my SMALL brain could apply it to my own situation, rather than the one being described: http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&taskId=110&prodSeriesId=25484&prodTypeId=18972&prodSeriesId=25484&objectID=bpl01293

Still very much open to (and begging for) other suggestions....   Bump...for help pretty please?Will the legal-size tray fit into the upper location ? ?

Reason i ask is we have a finicky machine with similar options built in but legal-size only runs from the upper tray...

Rather than swearing at the gosh darn thing every other day we just switch trays now.

patio.  8-)That's a good thought, but the legal tray -is- the upper tray, and it's not set up to move.  I'm still thinking it must have something to do with the settings either on the printer itself or in the software.  I may just give up and print twice as many pages on letter-sized paper.

Dear Friends,

I got an old Dell Dimension L866R.  The BIOS seems to be Phoenix.

I upgraded the CPU to 1GHz, the Memory to 512M and repalced the hard drive.  However, it always gives me a short beep after POST.  It starts normally, no problem in identifying memory and IDE drives, and the Windows XP is loaded and started with no problem.  However, I can't find a way to get rid of the beep.  I disconnected all second drives, replaced the memory, ide cable, removed all pci cards, etc.  What else could cause the beep?

Thanks,
BrianIs the replaced PROCESSOR identified in the BIOS? Did you check the beep codes for that model on the Dell site?Thanks for your reply.

I think it can identify the faster CPU.  Its startup information shows it is 1GHz.  Besides, I can also enter the BIOS setup, which shows CPU as 1GHz.

I checked online and found beep codes.  http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dmum/codemess.htm#post_beep_codes
However, it says it is only for "the system emits a beep code and then fails to start".  My computer can start well.  According to the manual, one beep is "Memory Refresh Failure".  I rotate the memory location and it still emits beep.  The BIOS shows the memory to be 512MB.

I need to check whether my two MEMORIES modules are the same.  I am not sure whether that could cause problems.  I will also update the BIOS.

BrianCareful about updating/flashing the BIOS...many doorstops have been created this way...

2 of the 4 machines i have do the short beep and i assume it means a successful POST. If the machine is fine i wouldn't sweat it.

patio.   8-)

p.s. I just remembered another instance of this...right before the Holidays i installed a new vid card in a customers RIG and they then had a short beep on POST where there was none before. Turns out it was the vid card showing it's recognised properly.A stock Dell does not make an audible beep at startup.I know beige is BEAUTIFUL...but i've never owned a Dell.

 Thanks.  I already updated the BIOS.  Fortunately I didn't get any problems.

I found where the beep comes from.  "Silent Boot" was disabled.  If it is enabled, it doesn't beep.  Seems a trivia switch.

Thank you all for advices.

and I appreciate the help. But evidently I'm an IDIOT. It wasn't hard to do, the card snapped right into place with no problem. But when I plugged everything back in, and started the computer, I get this one long beeeeeeeeeeeep. So I took the card out, read the instructions again, put it back in easily, and still another long beeeeeeeeeeep. Why?I think you may have damaged the memory when installing. Is there any text at all?
BTW could a nice moderator move this to its starting topic. Thanks in advance.It could ALSO be mismatched memory or the wrong type altogether...

Did you check your BOARD specs as to what type of RAM it likes ? ?Will it do alright if you reinstall only the original memory?I am getting the same
idea 'patio'has,mismatched ram. :-?We could probably help if we knew the motherboard and all the specifics of the RAM you put in there. Not just the speed. That's the easy part.well, I realize I have no clue what I am talking about, so please tell me where I find the info about the motherboard? Oh, and I also realize I should probably just hire SOMEONE to do this, but figured I could at least TRY on my own.
My computer is a Medion MD1768DLoad and install aprogram called Everest Home and post a report here...this will tell you more than you'll ever need to know about what's inside that machine.

If you started your post by stating something like "i'm doing this for the first time, how do i" etc. then we can better tell where you're coming from.

Everyone here started exactly where you are right now so don't be afraid at all to ask just make your requests a bit clearer.

And Welcome Aboard !

patio.  8-)

Hello,
The boot drive appears to have failed. The COMPUTER won't boot from the Windows 2000 setup disk; in recovery console the dir command ERRORS out and chkdsk gets to 25% and then SAYS most of disk appears unusable.

My second hard drive has a backups partition and also fairly recent images of the boot drive and programs partition, made with Norton ghost. I assume that the data on the second disk is intact but is there a way to get at it? What happens if I go thru a new windows 2000 installation hoping there is enough healthy disk left on the bad hdd--will I be able to see the drives on the second hard drive, or will the file system essentially be washed out by the fresh installation? Similarly, is it possible to replace the bad disk, do a fresh windows installation and then access data on the second disk?I'd replace the bad HDD and put the 2nd HDD into a known working machine with a burner and grab your most recent Ghost image and burn it to a bootable CD. Then boot to your machine and restore the new HDD to the Ghost image...

After all is running correctly then replace the storage HDD and all your data should be accessible.

Hard drives aren't a GOOD spot for storing IMPORTANT data...they all fail, eventually.

I posted this on another forum but no help. I will post a copy of my post from there as it has all the information and what i have tried so far to find the root cause of the problem:

Ok so what i had before was this build:

CPU   

AMD Athlon II X2 270 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor

Motherboard   

MSI 760GM-P23 (FX) Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard

Ram

2 G.Skill Value Series 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory

HDD

Western Digital WD Blue 500GB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive

Video card

Asus Radeon R7 240 2GB Video Card

Power supply

Antec 450W ATX Power Supply

Disk Drive

LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer

Windows 10 64

Now i upgraded my cpu to an FX 8300

I have no plans to over clock and bought the cpu on sale as an UPGRADE so went with the stock fan that came with it. I INSTALLED it and had it on just web surfing for a long while to see how it does. I launch a game Ark Survival Evolved to be exact and i was waiting for my mods to install so i could play when my monitor goes black but the pc is still running and would not power off via its power button so i unplugged it checked my video card and all was well.

I also double checked my cpu fan was secured so i powered it up again all seems fine so i started monitoring the temperatures using cpuid hw monitoring. I noticed my temps are all over the place.

TMPIN0 min 24 max 38

TMPIN1 min 37max 47

TMPIN2 min 29 max 31

AMD FX 8300 Min 14 Max 46

AMD Radeon R& 240 min 32 max 36

Now all seems ok that is at idle while posting this. When i STRESSED it with Cpuid TMPIN1 hit up to 80 and my cpu was hitting closer to 60+

I was not sure on its accuracy so i tried out AIDA64 extreme. And not long into it less then 3 minutes screen went black and i had to unplug the pc again to shut it down as again the power button did nothing.

So this time i took my pc apart. Completely cleaned off the stock paste and put on some arctic silver to the cpu and put it back together. Not sure what is going on i tried AIDA64 Extreme again and when i saw it jumping to high this time stopped it. The weird thing? The temps kinda lingered there a while. Even when i went into task manager and killed the program. Eventually they did drop back down to normal and i reset the temps to monitor them as i post this to see the changes.

I hope it is not the stock cooler. But i guess it could be the cheap MOBO. I kind of suspected it may be the dual core optimizer that was installed playing havoc on the temps so i uninstalled it and will run another test after i post this after a pc restart to be sure it is gone from the equation. Any ideas on a specific cause? I'd hate to opt for a better cpu cooler when i've no plans to oc the cpu. But i will if that is the problem. Or i guess i could try the older heat sink i had on my other cpu if need be. So any ideas?

Edit to add just tried cpu z stress test while monitoring with cpuid hw monitor and temps were as follows:

TMPIN0 min 24 max 56

TMPIN min 37 max 70

TMPIN2 min 28 max 31

FX 8300 min 14 max 57

AMD Radeon R7 240 min 32 max 36

My case has 5 fans all set to exhaust 2 on rear one on side one on top and one in the front. I stopped the stress when it hit 70 myself on TMPIN1. Not sure what temp that is monitoring but i do not like it at all.

Ok i tried the cpu fan that i had in it before and stress tested it with CPU z and let TMPIN1 hit 80 my cpu hit 65 under that stress so i then just stopped it out right. I know some are you are probably thinking that it is the cpu fan. Which is why i tried the other one i wanted to see if it was that cpu fan that was bad. But apparently doesn't seem to be the case. I just can not figure out what TMPIN1 is. It seems to be the mobo or a component of it. Could it be the onboard graphics on this mobo doing this running that hot? Or is it just a bad mobo? Or is it the cpu heat sink just not being up to the task?

Also on CPUID HW monitor there is a system fan 2 but for some reason it is only running at 50%? I'd gladly buy a new heatsink if that is the problem. But i'm not sure if its the mobo not up to snuff and overheating or if its the cpu fan not doing its job.

I tried running it with the case open. And tried the stress test again. And it is still running high. TMPIN1 hit 81 before i was able to stop it but at least it did not shut down this time. Cpu still did not hit above 65 when TMPIN1 increased to 81. But that is not to say it would not have done so. I'm at a loss on what is causing this and the best fix. I mean if i buy a new heatsink and that is not the cause then i'm wasting money. I just want to figure out the exact problem so i can fix it. One would think the heatsink that comes with the cpu would be adequate enough to handle the temps with it not being overclocked. And it may be that it is and the cpu socket on the mobo is running hot so mobo needing replaced. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Welcome to the forum, hopefully we can help you out

Bear in mind that readings from Speedfan don't always correspond with working/active sensors, so they can't always be trusted.  Having said that, I'm suspecting that your VRMs are overheating - VRM = Voltage Regulator Module, they're basically what supplies power to the CPU.  Some cheaper AMD boards, especially MSI, are known for issues with power hungry CPUs such as the FX8300, and your symptoms sound somewhat like they're overheating.  That said, I don't think TMPIN1 is measuring your VRM temperatures directly as they usually don't have sensors and can usually take around 100-105C anyway, but it may well be nearby hence the correlation.
There are two fairly easy ways to test this theory.  One - if you happen to have a spare fan, or even if you use a case fan, just connect it up and point it to the VRM area on your board (this is to the left of the CPU socket, they're the small black square things) and run the test again, see if it lasts any longer with some cooling directed at the VRMs.  Two, you could underclock and undervolt your CPU a little to reduce its power consumption, this will reduce stress on the VRMs causing them to heat up less - again if it runs for longer this would potentially point to a VRM overheating.  Alternatively if you can disable turbo mode in the BIOS, give that a try too.
The VRMs on your board are specced to 95W which is in theory the FX8300's TDP, however there is evidence out there that MANY "95W" VRMs aren't truly capable of this, and AMD's FX CPUs don't always seem to adhere to their published TDP either, both of which obviously cause issues.

I'll stress that this is just speculation at this point, but at least it gives you a few things to try, to hopefully narrow down the issue a little.I did try it with the case open. And temps did not change. I tried a second cpu fan i had that was in it before for my athlon cpu and its in there now with no change. I tried it with arctic silver thermal paste doing away with the cheap stuff that came preloaded on the heat sink with no change. My case has 2 80mm fans on the rear 1 80 mm on top and 1 80 mm on the front and a 120 mm fan on the side. I'm up for adjusting the voltages if they would help. Although i'm no overclocker so never fiddled with voltages before so would need some advice on how to do it. And i am using CPUID HW monitor not speedfan to monitor things. While not 100% accurate it is much more accurate then speedfan is. And the program i am using to stress test the cpu is call cpuid.

I chose this board as it was cheap and seemed to fit my basic needs. But i see now in hindsight you generally get what you pay for. I had to build this rig in a hurry though to replace an older dying build hence why i had an athlon 270 instead of an fx 8300 to start with. I do suspect some thing is over heating the cpu and it is some component within the mobo. But confused as to whether an aftermarket heat sink would fix it or if it is just best to just replace the mobo. If turning down the voltages would help and do away with the over heating and allow me to play my games until i can get a replacement board i'm definitely down with that option. I can check my bios and see if i can disable the turbo and see how that plays out. And i'll post back after a short test with that.Ok now that just scared the crap out of me. I adjusted bios removed the turbo mode and adjusted bus from 200 to 190. I ran a stress test here are the readings as i stopped it before things got really bad:

TMPIN0 min 25 max 64

TMPIN1 min 40 max 95

TMPIN2 min 29 max 32

My cpu on the other hand? min 16 maxed at 206 at which point i stopped the test

hdd min 32 max 33

GPU min 31 max 36

So seems some thing is very wrong here. And i just got this cpu yesterday.In BIOS enable Cool'n Quiet this will drop the clock to around 1400Mhz idle for that CPU. I have the FX8350 and stock cooler is not the greatest and it runs very warm at 4Ghz without Turbo. I found that with cool'n quiet enabled the CPU temps are much lower as for the 8 cores dont have to run full tilt for most applications.

Also I'd set everything in BIOS back to defaults before enabling cool'n quiet and this way nothing is old config from the prior CPU. If your bios somehow has the voltages ramped up it could run it hotter than normal.

I am guessing your using the stock cooler that came with the new CPU where there was already thermal compound on the bottom of heatsink and it was mated to the CPU with a clean bond, and the heatsink wasnt removed again and reinstalled after initial installation? If heatsink was locked down and then removed and then placed back down again the thermal compound might be trashed and you need to clean CPU and Heatsink surface of the prior compound and add new.He re-did the paste above.... I tried redoing the paste still getting those numbers. I just put on cool and quiet with turbo still disabled and hit these temps:

TMPIN0 min 23 max 65

TMPIN1 min 37 max 95

TMPIn2 min 29 max 32

CPU min 14 maxed again at 206 that is celcius so 402 f

So that did not help sadly. The mobo is less then 2 years old and the cpu is less then 2 days old. I am very worried about these temps.I dont trust those temp readings...

It'd be on fire if those were actual. Quote from: patio on April 10, 2016, 12:40:42 PM

I dont trust those temp readings...

It'd be on fire if those were actual.

I am using cpuid HW monitor lol I said so before that is what I have been using I never use speed fan. A and like I said it has been confusing unless the sensor is bad maybe?

I did try it with the case open. And temps did not change. I tried a second cpu fan i had that was in it before for my athlon cpu and its in there now with no change.

Putting a fan directly on it I have not done as my side case fan is a 120 mm and sits not but 4 to 5 inches from the CPU I am willing to try it or even switch it to intake if need be.

I can not done remember if I did update my bios or not to be honest. Although I did watch the bios temps and they seemed fine.

I am concerned I may need to replace my mono for 2 reasons first being cost the second is Microsoft's toe that ties your windows key to the mono meaning if I replace the mono I need to get a new windows key if they refuse to reactivate my old one which is a pita. So I am hoping to find a fix for it that will not add further costs time then need be.

I want to update my memory and video CARD on my desktop, that is 3 years old. Will this work? My computer is:
2.4 Ghz Intel Celeron
256mb DDR DSRAM
80 gb hard drive
integrated REAL256 with up to 64mb shared memory
available 4x AGP slot for graphics upgrade

I bought High speed memory upgrade, 512 mb DDR.

and Radeon 9550 256mb/DDR AGP version, says system requirements are Pentium 4/III/Celeron, or compatible with AGP 4X
128 mb of system memory (but my computer says 64 mb shared memory)?

can I do this myself? I do the memory first?The 64MB is for the integrated graphics system. Your 256MB/512MB/768MB is what it means. Yes it will work just fine. Don't expect amazing performance though. For amazing performance, go with the 7600GS I have one and it runs everything maxed out at about an fps of probably 40 to 80fps. Do whichever one first. yes u can do it yourself. I'll be happy to show u how.Oh yes, show me how!!! Or direct me to any website that can help. Actually, I have a laptop that has everything I need. This desktop is for my 6 y.o. to PLAY her games. So I think this should do the job for her. I hope so anyway.
I need to install my memory first I guess. I was BASICALLY going to read the directions and go from there.Below is a How To on graphics card.

http://www.buildeasypc.com/hw/howto/instgraphics.htm

Below is for memory.

http://www.buildeasypc.com/hw/howto/instmemory.htm

As a matter of fact buildeasypc.com is just a good all
around link.See below.Plenty of step by step pictures.

http://www.buildeasypc.com/

On the lighter side here is you a----------->SNAP! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]What make and model computer is this?  You may need to access your BIOS settings and disable onboard, i.e. integrated, video.  Access/Enter MOTHERBOARD BIOS

Quote

The 64MB is for the integrated graphics system. [highlight]Your 256MB/512MB/768MB is what it means.[/highlight]

I  have the amd computer with ASUS motherboard
the microphone option on the computer is not working
I have uninstalled and redownloaded the sound card driver from ASUS website
but its not enabling the that option I have formated the computer  reinstalled win XP But still no luck.
Any other ideas :-/Are you plugging into a jack in front or in back?  If in front, did you also try the ONE on back?  The one on front may not be wired.  

What audio control software are you using?  To check your settings through Windows XP's Sounds and Audio Devices Properties panel, go to Control Panel and open Sounds and Audio Devices.  Select the Audio tab.  Click on the Volume button under Sound playback.  Is Microphone muted?Well I have only one jack at the back of my computer .So it is plugged into the pink jack which was for microphone.The sound hardware that I am using is already built on the motherboard it model number A8N-VM and when I try to run the software wizard of windows Xp control panel icon it not able to hear any sound .When I open the control panel of onboard sound card the line in option shows me grayed out and I have CHECKED that the microphone is not muted.but not able to find any reason for not workingDo you other audio control software installed besides Windows standard sound control panel?  I have an add-on sound card which I installed to replace onboard sound.  I installed software with the card.  This panel is part of the control panel in that software:


Without that box for Enable Microphone Booster checked, I basically get no sound from my mic.  Do you have any such control somewhere in your software?I did installed the software for onboard sound card and also check for micrphone booster uncheck and recheck. Check for audio properties and what ever was possible in windows XP software sound card troubleshooting but looks like It might be hardware issue now 'cause everything else is working but not microphone Try loading windows sound recorder.An add-on sound card might be the best, and perhaps only, WAY to resolve this.  Here's an inexpensive card that I'll recommend because I bought one in April 2005 and have been using it since then: CHAINTECH AV-512 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Card - RETAIL.  Of course, there are many cards costing more if you're willing to spend more.  

This card is the one I use a mic with.Good advice soybean...i have 2 Chaintek's myself.

patio.  8-)

hi, i want to share a problem of a friend.
his computer got locked( you can do nothing but restart computer) everytime after he begins to use it like after 10 minutes. he thought maybe the problem was in system and erased it but when he tried to load it(windows xp) again it got locked again.
about locking(sorry for english): the image on screen freezes, keyboard or mouse doesnt respond.Sounds like it could be a heat problem.
Check the fans inside the case and gently clean them with a slightly damp cloth, wipe them free of dust.
Be careful not to damage anything whilst you're in the case and observe ESD precautions.
See if that helps.
ALSO, start the PC up with the case open and check all the fans are spinning.
Post back with a report on how the PC is after you've cleaned the fans and whether all the fans are spinning.
Also, what are the details on that PC?we checked the fans, they are clean and working. it seems it isnt heat problem. here are some details of pc: a-open motherboard, pen.4 2 mhz proc., 640rd ram, ASUS g-force 256 mb graphic card.
thanks for help anywayIt must be a hardware problem, IF he reformatted and REINSTALLED Windows correctly.
If it was me, I'd REFORMAT the hard drive and start from scratch again.
Sounds like he hasn't got much to LOSE from this installation anyway if he's already reloaded it and it's messed up.he can not reinstall windows correctly because pc get crazy everytime after he opens it(after 10 minutes or so)So the problem even happens when Windows isn't even running?
It's definitely a hardware problem of some sort if that is the case.yes, we think also it's a hardware problem, but which part? anyway, thank for your interest!  Power Supply

Bad RAM

Blown capicitor on the MBoard...

Not neccessarily in that order.

First of all, I wanted to say thanks to all who put this great site together; it really is a wonderful idea.  I've been reading the forums for awhile, and have found them really helpful!  However, I'm having PROBLEMS with my ATI TV wonder card, and couldn't find the help I was looking for on the search function.  My sole purpose for having this card is to display my Playstation 2 from my computer monitor.  It does that, but the brightness is not nearly where it should be, and the audio is ALMOST non-existent (I had to turn my speakers ALL the way up just to hear anything!)  I own a E-machines T-6532 w/ Athlon 64 3500+ 2.2ghz processor, Nvidia GeForce 6100 Video and Realtek audio.  Thanks for your help and keep up the good work!!

P.S. I tried both a composite and S-Video connection, both w/ the same dreadful result.Windows XP SP2, by the way.  I'm not sure what you are trying to do? What do you mean by display your PS2 from your computer monitor?I have my computer in my bedroom and wanted to use my monitor to display my PS2 instead of a TV.  I have it working, and I ACTUALLY pinned down my volume problem (had to ADJUST the volume levels of the input and output jacks of my sound card) but it seems to me that the image displayed is of very low brightness, regardless of how I adjust my monitor and video card settings.  Any thoughts?

I have recently been having a problem with screen brightness.  I have a HP Pavilion zv6000 LAPTOP.  When I plug the laptop in, the screen dims and when it is running on the BATTERY, it is MUCH brighter.  I may be CRAZY, but I swear that it used to be the exact opposite and when plugged in it was much brighter.  THANKS for your help in advance...That is the opposite of how it should be.so then what is wrong?? any idea?Contact HP support and see what they say.

Alan <><  when your laptop running on battery,  reduce the brightness to the level you want, then plug the ac power in, adjust to brighter.
now check when you use battery , is it brighter or dim, then plug ac power in, is it brighter?

if it is still the same, check the bios setup, it may be have screen brightness setting for battery power and ac power.  (my dell laptop have.)

hi, i have ahuge problem.. ONE of my computers blew, and the hard DRIVE on it has data my brother needs for university, plus all my music. etc etc. while in use mine and my brothers user areas were made PRIVATE. so when i put the harddrive into my own computer we get the ACCESS DENIED message.. i kno ive done this before, ive managed to egt through each file so that i could take the STUFF from the HDD and put it onto another. but now i dont knw how..
if anyone does, any help would be amazing
thanks alot
andy
Have a READ here:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/308421

I just overhauled my COMPUTER a few days ago (new mobo, vid card, hard drive, processor) and it works great, except when i use window's "shut down" mode, the computer won't turn back on when i press the front power button.  I looked in my case and the bios lights stay on, so I have to unplug the PSU until the bios lights turn off, then usually even wait another 10-15 secs, then plug it back in and press the front power button a COUPLE times before it turns on

what the *censored*?  my PSU worked fine with my old system, so it's not that.  And the front power button works, just under these special circumstances, and I followed the guides to the mobo exactly so I'm pretty SURE I plugged in the front power button to the right spot.Sounds like the front power switch is wired backwards...try reversing it.
i'll try that, but i thought i followed the directions exactlyok, tried it, and there's no change

:/  am i just screwed, or what?Was looking in my bios to see if I had an option that would cause that PROBLEM , but do not see it. Tried yours?

My Epsom inkjet PRINTER won't PRNT color.  I put in a new color CARTRIDGE because the old one only printed certain colors.  Now it won't print color at all.

The computer is a Macintosh with MAC OSX.  :-?Replace the black as well...

And clean the print heads. Quote

Replace the black as well...

And clean the print heads.

I'm taking a stab at putting a BAREBONES together.  My mobo is Biostar uATX T6100-939 w/ Athlon 64
3700+ San Diego core.  OK, the BASIC question: what happens with the onboard sound if I install a good
sound card?  Same question for an add-on video card.  Thanks for any INPUT. :-?You would need to disable the onboard sound in the BIOS. Usually that is not NECESSARY with a video card, but check your manual.Thanks.  I'm sure that question is so basic that the specs I've been reading fail to address this.
So I can PROCEDE with new sound and video cards, and the mobo can be set up to disregard the
onboard sound and video, and accept the cards.  Accurate statement?100% true. Just make sure you have the right type of slot for the video card you will be adding.  Checked that out, at least.  PCI-E for the video and a PCI for the sound.  Thanks very much
for the help. You're welcome and post back if any further questions.

I have an old AMD processor PC, and 3 days bfore i formatted the HDD and (Tried to)reinstalled windows XP pro. I set the boot sequence in the Bios setting and started installing windows. After the first restart, i NOTICED I cannot enter the serial number coz my keyboard is not working. I restarted the computer and i saw the keyboard works in the bios settings. But when windows start loading the keyboard works. I tried chaging the keyboard and reseting the bios settings. Didnt work. This system was working on WIN xP with no trouble. How could this suddenly happen. Am using a USB mouse and a PS2 keyboard. Do u think its a hardware conflict. Does anyone knows how to fix it? Apreciate the helpIs the PS2 port DEFECTIVE with any of the pins missing or is it not plugged in all the WAY? There could be a plastic tab broken off so ANOTHER keyboard can't be plugged in. If so you can remove the tab from the new keyboard plug and get it to go all the way in.

Gizmo73A real PS/2 keyboard in a properly functioning system solves all of this.

You don't have two keyboards plugged in at the same time do you?

I have recently gotten a laptop with a intel GRAPHICS chip and GTX970M RUNNING Ubuntu, but if I set the DRIVER for the GTX970M it wont let me login (it comes up with an ERROR and returns to login screen). IM running Ubuntu 15.1 and cannot disable intel graphics in the bios.Anyone, Please Help...Where is the driver from ?

I'd like some help on my computer build as I am a beginner to this kind of thing.

I'm getting an i7 6700k with a Z170 motherboard. Is the Z170-AR good enough? Or should I go for a different company/specific board? Like what is the actual difference between them - eg the ASRock Extreme7+ which is about $100 more expensive.

Also, I have THIS SSD http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage/MZ-N5E250BW which from what I have been told is meant for a laptop. Is there any WAY for it to work in my desktop?

Finally, my computer is making a lot of noise... Is this because it just hasn't been cleaned in a while, or is there something I can buy / etc in order to quiet it down a bit?

Thanks,
-DafariaWelcome to the forums

Quote

I'm getting an i7 6700k with a Z170 motherboard. Is the Z170-AR good enough? Or should I go for a different company/specific board? Like what is the actual difference between them - eg the ASRock Extreme7+ which is about $100 more expensive.

Also, I have THIS SSD http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage/MZ-N5E250BW which from what I have been told is meant for a laptop. Is there any way for it to work in my desktop?

Finally, my computer is making a lot of noise... Is this because it just hasn't been cleaned in a while, or is there something I can buy / etc in order to quiet it down a bit?

My SIL is finally buying a new desktop - HP Pavillon 550-110 with Win 10. What is the easiest way to transfer files, folders and documents from her old Win 7 HP desktop? Her old machine is so slow it takes forever to copy all of her pics, etc onto the external HD and sometimes files won't copy. I have a Macrium image of her old internal hard drive but it is the free version where I have to restore the entire drive including OS. Should I get the paid version of Macrium so I can restore individual folders? Is it possible to directly transfer files from via USB cable without having to use an external HD? Thanks.If you have an up to date image backup of the old machine saved on an external drive, just install Macrium Reflect on the new machine, connect the drive up, then you can browse the Macrium image file - you just right click on the file, select Explore, and follow the wizard, no need to restore the whole drive and no need to buy the full version toi restore individual folders, you can simply drag and drop from the backup image to the new machine, then unmount the drive once you're done.
Macrium has an article on this here - http://kb.macrium.com/KnowledgebaseArticle50080.aspx Quote from: Calum on April 03, 2016, 07:50:59 AM

If you have an up to date image backup of the old machine saved on an external drive, just install Macrium Reflect on the new machine, connect the drive up, then you can browse the Macrium image file - you just right click on the file, select Explore, and follow the wizard, no need to restore the whole drive and no need to buy the full version toi restore individual folders, you can simply drag and drop from the backup image to the new machine, then unmount the drive once you're done.
Macrium has an article on this here - http://kb.macrium.com/KnowledgebaseArticle50080.aspx

Having a problem with my Lenovo laptop. It came with Cyberlink PowerDVD installed, but when I put a dvd in the drive it won't go past the usual copyright warning screen of the film. These are region 2 dvds (I'm from the UK), bought from a shop, not copied or anything. As far as I can tell the PowerDVD is set for region 2 (although I could be wrong). I've tried several dvds and they only go as far as the copyright page. I've tried them in media player and it SAYS the disc (E) is empty.

Any ideas anyone?Here are the settings for PowerDVD:

Player information:
  Player region code: 2
  Current drive: E:
  Title region code: 2

Display information:
  Video mode: Progressive
  Display mode: DirectDraw
  FourCC code: YUY2
  Surface type: Overlay

Video attributes:
  Video compression mode: MPEG-2 (DxVA off)
  TV system: 625/50 (PAL)
  Aspect ratio: 16:9
  Display mode: Only Letterbox
  Source picture resolution: 720x576 (625/50)
  Frame rate: 25.00
  Source picture letterboxed: Not letterboxed
  Bitrate: 16.46Mbps

Audio attributes:
Audio attributes:  Dolby Digital
  Sampling rate: 48kHz
  Audio application mode: Not Specified
  Number of audio channels:2.0
  Bitrate: 256 Kbps
  Number of audio streams: 1

Subpicture attribute: Not available

Hardware Information:
  Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210U CPU running at 2394 MHz
  3DNow! technology:  Not Detected
  Enhanced 3DNow! technology:  Not Detected
  3DNow! professional technology:  Not Detected
  IA MMX technology:  In Use
  IA sStreaming SIMD extensions:  In Use
  IA SSE 2:  In Use
  Video accelerator:  DirectX VA (not in use)
  Multispeaker audio device:  Speakers (Conexant SmartAudio HD) (not in use)
  S/PDIF output device:  Not Detected
How old is this laptop ? ?...sounds like the drive itself has gone South...A couple of years, but the drive has hardly been used at all. In Properties it says the device is working properly, and it played a dvd of a show recorded from TV, so it looks to me as though it's just films bought from shops it doesn't want to play.Stopping after the copyright notice is a RESULT of the Disc  using a protection scheme that isn't supported by the DVD Player, BASED on what I'm able to find.

Maybe another DVD playback SOFTWARE, such as VLC Media Player, might work?

Finished setting-up SIL's new HP 550-110. Everything looks great and Macrium Reflect Free worked PERFECTLY transferring user files from old PC. Even though this is an entry level rig with basic CPU, it is lightning fast compared to her old rig. Only concern I have is low power supply of 180w. She is a light user so hopefully all will be OK. Why would HP put such low power in a modern desktop? Thanks.That's fine, modern systems are incredibly power efficient.  180w is fine for the machine as it is, you would of course need to upgrade the PSU if you were to add any power hungry components such as a dedicated video card in the future.With pre-built systems like that HP, the manufacturer puts in a "just the right size" PSU with little to no allowance for expansion.I'll just agree with camerongray here, I'd EXPECT that PC to pull maybe 120W under full LOAD, so the 180W PSU is plenty.  As strollin says, HP aren't going to waste money on, say, a 500W PSU when it's just not needed.  Most people tend to go overkill on the power supply and it's not usually necessary unless planning for a power-hungry upgrade in the near future, so it's understandable to be a little concerned when you see such a low-wattage PSU but it won't be an issue.

Don't mention my 1200W PSU powering a PC that draws around 350W at full load...it was spare so I used it!

The app which I am starting to use with my WINDOWS smartphone webcams offers a number of settings, named as below. The only ONE I have so far been able to find information on so far is ISO. The CAMERA glossary on this SITE does not help. I am looking for defintions and usage advice for the FOLLOWING:

ISO
SC
SS
HDR
AWB

There may be more.What app ? ?

I've just experienced a completely RANDOM failure of my solid state drive, one morning it just wasn't detected by the BIOS. Fortunately I've rectified the problem but I thought that the solution needed to be shared and discussed:

1) From a POWERED off state, disconnect the DATA LEAD to the drive in question leaving the power lead plugged in.
2) Turn on the computer and wait for the POST to complete.
3) Without turning off the computer plug the data lead back in.
4) Press the reset button. The drive should now be detected.


I hope this helps other people but why did this happen and how did that fix it?If it was anything other than an SSD, I would suggest that the device was taking longer to COME ready than the bios is allowing. I would expect the SSD to come up ready as soon as power is applied.  Instead of putting the data cable on after the drive is powered up which could cause data corruption. It would be better to diagnose what is causing this. To help with this please post the make and model of motherboard. What sata ports your drives are attached to and what devices you have attached. The make and model of SSD and the ssd firmware version. The program speccy will report all that.

Hi again. I have recently DISCOVERED the reason behind my slow WiFi speeds, it was because the ACCESS card in my PC is cheap $#!7. I now have 100Mb broadband (CURRENT receivable speed ~30Mb) and need a new method.

So which do I buy? A little USB dongle or an expansion card?

I currently have AC 1750 WiFi available and SHARE information on the network but may hard wire one day (not sure where everything is going yet), So do I want Asus' £80 monster card or a cheaper USB dongle?PCI-e is faster connection than USB...go for a card...preferably 1 with an antenna.

And you don't need to spend $80.00I'd always go for a PCI-E card rather than a USB dongle.  Make sure whatever one you get is rated for Wireless AC to get the full speed of your network. Quote from: camerongray on April 05, 2016, 08:06:48 AM

I'd always go for a PCI-E card rather than a USB dongle.  Make sure whatever one you get is rated for Wireless AC to get the full speed of your network.

PCI-e is faster connection than USB...go for a card...preferably 1 with an antenna.

And you don't need to spend $80.00

Hey guys I am currently working on a project where I am moving my old mother board which is a socket 775 pentium 4 into a NEW case.  However I have run into the last thing I would have thought of as a problem.  The new case I got has the ordinary front panel cables (Power HD) (Restart) and (HDD LED) These are the cables with the small flat rectangular shape ends.  However this old motherboard has absolutely no place for them to clip into the board.  I looked at the old setup the board had with the dell case and it was basically an ide cable.  I hope this makes sense.  I am basically checking with you guys before I have to resort to buying a mother board...

Thanks -ChrisI've experienced that before, you have two options..
-Cut the ends off the cables from the dell case and connect them to the cables in the new case.

-Get a new mobo

I think getting a new mobo would be a better choice since the original is an el cheapo OEM and finding an exact replacement for a good price would be next to impossible.

Tiger Direct has a gaggle of 775 mobo's to choose from(65) starting from 30 bucks all the way up to 330 bucks, you can also get mobo and processor sets pretty cheap too(85 to choose from).
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_tlc.asp?CatId=13

No, I dont work for them. I just really like buying from them.Yeah I KINDA figured it was a lost cause to work with this oem board.  So all of these aftermarket 775 boards should COME with that Q-connector for the front panel plugs?  Should I purchase some more thermal paste after I reinstall the pentium 4 into the new mother board I purchase?.Yes, especially if you removed the CPU fan during the process.I agree with tigerdirect, they have a fx 60, with M/B , case and 500 power suplly for 399. They do have some good deals sometimes.Yeah its pretty much back and forth with them and new EGG.  New egg is where I usually shop there was a great difference in processor prices so I just stuck with new egg.  Thanks GX I will get the thermal paste then.

can  I install windows xp with fat 32 on Seagate SATA hardrive of 80gb 7200rpmYes.
Watch for the prompt for F6 to install the SATA drivers during the XP setup...it COMES up PRETTY fast....

patio.  8-)my hard drive does  get detected but when I am trying to install windows Xp on it I get the option to install only the NTFS partition not fat 32 . does sata not supportiing the Fat 32 partition.If YES then how can I install Xp as fat 32 file SYSTEM on SATA HARD DRIVE A drive with a partition over 32 gigs needs to be formatted with NTFS unless you do some workarounds. That's why there is no option for it in setup.

If you split the drive into multiple partitions during setup you can use FAT32 on all of them.

What service pack is on that version of XP?Jason,

FORGIVE me but I just have to ask this. Why do you want FAT32 on XP rather than NTFS?

The family PC is running out of space.
There's a 40Gb HDD in 2 partitions, the C drive, where most things are stored, and the D drive, where photos, music etc are stored.
D: is only 3 Gb in size, and with the addition of a lot of music it is down to around 100Mb free space.
So that the photos etc are safe if the main HDD dies, as it is a few YEARS old now, we'd prefer it if we had a separate HDD.
We don't need a lot of space, probably about 10-15Gb.
Anyone have any recommendations on a place for very cheap ATA hard drives?
Ebay any good?
Thanks in advance. Quote

The family PC is running out of space.
There's a 40Gb HDD in 2 partitions, the C drive, where most things are stored, and the D drive, where photos, music etc are stored.
D: is only 3 Gb in size, and with the addition of a lot of music it is down to around 100Mb free space.
So that the photos etc are safe if the main HDD dies, as it is a few years old now, we'd prefer it if we had a separate HDD.
We don't need a lot of space, probably about 10-15Gb.
Anyone have any recommendations on a place for very cheap ATA hard drives?
Ebay any good?
Thanks in advance.

Anyone with some ideas, before I dig in?  A computer in a SEPARATE room had got unplug and sat for a couple months unused.  Went into plug it in, and nothing no fans no nothing.  The OUTLET is good and the powersupply is getting juice, but that's all I can say.  As from there no ideas of what has happen.  No activity in the room at all.  Any thoughts where I can look, is it just the power supply gone bad? I'm sure the clock battery is dead now, but it should fire up regardless.   Anyways, I THOUGHT I would throw it out and see if I got any leads.

Thanks
shotgun_mannCheapest SOLUTION is the CMOS battery part # CR2032...

If no joy swap a known WORKING PSU into it and see what happens.

patio.  8-)Just because the power supply is "working" does not mean it is working correctly.  Antec makes a power supply tester thats cheap. Got mine at Office max. Saves the trouble of switching units.

Hello...
I came across this FORUM after trying to do a search on "google" to try and fix my problem. I was going to try and search on this forum on how to fix it, but I figured it would be best to just explain my issue, since there really isn't any direct keywords to use in the search function.
Just recently, my monitor's colors seemed a little off..
While watching a longer video while online, I noticed that my monitor was kinda flashing and changing to what it was now and back (which isn't a whole lot, but yet NOTICEABLE)
For ex:, When I did a search on my issue I went to a color/display calibration. And this is where I can check how green/red/yellow looks etc.
First of all, The color "green" is more of a really dark green.. Almost at a glace would come off as a dark grey almost black color. My start menu button shows up that way.. (Which should obviously be green) White tends to seem that it has a small amount of pink in it.. Kinda..
Orange seems to be brighter than it should be or off color. Overall, the color scheme seems off..
Some sorts of colors seem normal, depending on shade, for ex: the blue bar at the top of IE, and the gray scrolling bars seem normal.
I have checked my monitor cords, they are tight....
I have degauzed my computer screen several times...
I have updated my drivers with my video card...
Any idea what I could do?
List of what I have that goes with video..
17" e-machines CRT monitor..
ATi Radeon x800xl Graphics card.
-- Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Thanksdon't know if i can help..

1. have u test your monitor on other computer?
2. the way u update your graphic card driver may b wrong. if u don't mind u can try this, go to your graphic card manufacturer official website, search for your graphic card model. eg.if your graphic card manufactureris ASUS, go to ASUS, if MSI, go to MSI.
download the latest driver for your model.
before u install your graphic card driver, remember to uninstall your previous installed driver and restart. after restart u can start to install your driver.

good luck!
  I updated the driver hoping to fix the problem without any luck..
When I hit the menu button on the computer the color "green" in the menu shows up fine. Also if I unplug it the little "your monitor is working correctly" window flops around like normal too.
So I'm kind of doubting it's the monitor.. But I could yet be wrong..
Just wondering if I over looked some setting....It really sounds like the monitor is faulty(by faulty I mean the screen writing dohickey isnt working right), get it replaced under warranty or purchase a fancy new LCD monitor as the prices for 17inch LCD's are under 200 bucks these days.

Before you do that though try removing your graphics card and see what happens.
Uninstall you video drivers then shut down the pc, take the cover off and remove the card.
Reboot and have it run on the built in graphics chip for a while and see if it still does it.

If the problem persists then the monitor is more likely the culprit.If the green inside the start menu works fine, as you say, that would point to a graphics card fault. Is there anywhere else these colours are fine? Please doublecheck your menu too.

You really need to try swapping monitors/cards if you can, as that would be great to help pinpoint the problem.

It sounds like it could be a bent pin on your cord's connector. I had this once. Undo it and check.

On your graphics cards options, there are FEATURES to change the way colours appear. Perhaps someone has messed around and it's been accidently changed? Take a look.

Stones, LCDs don't have a "screen writing dohickey" like CRTs do...Ahem-
"List of what I have that goes with video..
***17" e-machines CRT monitor.. ***
ATi Radeon x800xl Graphics card.  
-- Any help would be greatly appreciated...  
Thanks " Quote

Ahem-
"List of what I have that goes with video..
***17" e-machines CRT monitor.. ***
ATi Radeon x800xl Graphics card.  
-- Any help would be greatly appreciated...  
Thanks "

I'm a little lost on your use of that smiley.

The video card and its drivers need to be removed from the system to use the original output.
On SECOND thought if you gointo system properties/hardware/device manager and disable the video card it may have the same result without needing to uninstall or reconnect anything (havent tried it myself).

I dont know if you can connect it to a laptop or not, I have never owned one, but if it has a D pin output its worth a try.

This continues to be made more confusing and difficult than necessary. When you try the above post back.

I was working on a friends LAPTOP that has VISTA on it.
I wanted to start in safe mode but I somehow messed it up by pushing and holding f9 one TIME, f11 another.  Now when it boots it just says windows, and shows a line going across like it is processing, and won't go farther!
Any ideas on what I can do to get it to boot up?Do you have the Vista installation Disc or recovery media to repair the installation?No, I did not have the disc, and was not at my friends house to see if he had one.  I did not get a response, so with much searching on the internet I found a suggestion to take the battery out of the CMOS slot, wait about 5 minutes and put it back in.  When I started it up, it gave me the option of a recovery, or a restore.  Since I'd done a manual restore before starting to work on this computer, I chose that.  It worked!GOOD to hear that the other recovery method worked.

Hi all
My friend is building a new system and he's asked me to help him choose the parts
He's not sure of his budget yet but it's likely to be around £1500-£2000
Anyway, it will be mainly a gaming PC, but will also be used for general tasks, image editing, and maybe video editing
He wants it to last a long time with minimal upgrades
He already has a spare HDD he will use with an original copy of XP - if he wipes the drive, he can install XP on the hard drive after he puts it in the new PC, right?
He also has a monitor, keyboard, and mouse

I was thinking of the following
CPU: Intel Conroe Core 2 Duo E6600/6700/6800 (needs to be 64-bit)
GPU: nVidia 8800GTS/GTX (must be DX10)
RAM: DDR2? 1 or 2Gb
Sound: X-Fi Fatal1ty, SURROUND speakers
Optical drives - DVD-RW, additional DVD-ROM (must be fast read/write speeds)
PSU - unknown

Feedback please?  Also need suggestions on motherboard because I haven't got a clue about it, which speakers, which DVD drives, and so on
Also, any opinions on brands of components, which ones could be improved, and so on
Thanks in advance
PS he also wants to go with water cooling because he says it's really dusty where the PC will be, is this a good idea for a newb?  Or would he be better with large silent fans and dust filters?Any ideas?
He'd like it for Xmas if possible, so I'm trying to order the parts ASAP but I don't want to order stuff without some expert opinions (which I know I can get here )E6600, nothing above that. CNPS 9500 on top of that.
8800 GTX SLi. VF900 on top of those.
nForce 680i SLi motherboad.
Kingston DDR2-800.
800w PSU with 50-60A on the +12V (VERY important).
250GB WD HDD.
LG H10L DVD-Burner w/LightScribe. Quote

E6600, nothing above that. CNPS 9500 on top of that.
8800 GTX SLi. VF900 on top of those.
nForce 680i SLi motherboad.
Kingston DDR2-800.
800w PSU with 50-60A on the +12v (VERY important).
250GB WD HDD.
LG H10L DVD-Burner w/LightScribe.

I was thinking of the E6600 to save money, just wasn't sure whether the performance increase above it would be worth the price

Would it be better to get 1 8800GTX and then buy another to run in SLI later?

I was thinking of an 800W PSU anyway, the 8800 is quite power hungry

It doesn't have to be Intel, but the Core 2 Duo chips are a lot faster than the AMD equivalents, or so I believe
Every benchmark I've seen shows the Athlons getting pulped by the Core 2s

Also, make sure u buy the eVGA 8800 GTX, so that u can upgrade to an 8900 GTX when it comes out.

nForce 680i SLI motherboard (any recommendations on this?  Models etc?

Is there anything else I need to consider here?

That Is the model. The motherboard model is the nForce 680i SLi.

ENJOY your MAXIMUM-end PC!  Cheesy

I have just tried to turn my COMPUTER on and although there is power to it - it sounds like it is GOING to start up and the light flashes at the front but then it just turns straight off.
Any ideas
pls post more detail about problem, did you hear any "beep"?, which light flashing? is it power light or hard disk light. did the cpu fan spinning?, how about power supply fan, did it working too? and pls post your PC spec, it may help to solve your problemplease, not pls. It only costs 3 more letters.  Thank you PCfool and GX1-Man

I popped into PC world this morning as I was passing and they seem to think motherboard has died.
GX1-man - I didn't post too much information because that is basically all I can tell you.  I went to switch on, for a split second it looked like it was OK and then it all went dead.  Smell of burning this morning.  I know it's my problem and not yours - didn't say it was anyone elses problem. just first time of asking for advice.  Possibly will be my last if that is the attitude.
SorryA simple request for more information on the machine, OS and what happened prior to the problem is NOT an attitude...it is an effective way of troubleshooting a problem.

All we know right now from what info was posted is :

A.) It's a computer

B.) It has issues.

The attitude isn't on this end that i can see...

patio.  8-)You obviously didn't read this comment then did you

Quote: Too much info is OK, too little is pointless! Don't just say "My computer doesn't work. What's wrong?" We shouldn't have to drag the details out of you. It is YOUR problem, not ours. QUOTE

Nothing did happen prior to problem.  Computer is in my showroom - I simply switched it on and apart from a brief show of LIFE [a second literally] when the light at the front of the CPU blinked on that was it . Dead.

So I can't really give any further information as I don't have any
 
I don't have an attitude - I just posted for help and thought if someone had come across this before they may just be able to throw some light on it.Actually my response was to pcfool and his text messaging.

By the way it is not an attitude. That is my signature and appears in all of my posts, as it seems we are always having to ask for the details that would speed us along to a solution of the problem, as in this case. (Please see both posts here to confirm that.)

As Patio has stated you really gave us no information to work with. Without that all we can say is that it APPARENTLY is not working. PCWorld or having a tech working with it in person may be your best bet if you cannot provide more info. Sorry.





Quote

All we know right now from what info was posted is :
 
A.) It's a computer
 
B.) It has issues.

Hello! I have a question regarding my wife's computer.  It is an HP a450n, and recently when trying to power it up the MONITOR, mouse and key board do not show any signs of life except the monitor going into "power save mode" like the computer was turned off.  I sought out some "friendly" ADVICE and replaced the mother board, but that did not fix it.  I also swapped a know good video card &AMP; memory into it.  None of the suggestions have worked.  If anyone has any ideas they would be much APPRECIATED.
-WallySounds like a power supply issue. What happened prior to all of this? How old is the machine?

HP's have notoriously small and poorly constructed powere supplies. I think that one is a whopping 250w el cheapo. This is a common problem.

http://forums1.itrc.hp.com/service/forums/bizsupport/questionanswer.do?threadId=961952&admit=-682735245+1169200645352+28353475

Top it all off these are proprietary units, so you can't go to the local computer shop and just buy a PSU off the shelf.The below site has a 310 watt.

http://www.pcpower.com/products/power_supplies/selector/hp-compaq.htmThanks for the info, but I neglected to mention that the first thing I did was swap the PSU out of my PC into hers.  It did nothing.  I'm not the most computer SAVVY person, but the wiring harness out of mine had the exact type of plugs and appear to plug in the exact same way.  Is there an internal difference if the plugs are all the same?
Thanks-
WallyIt's possible...i had this issue with a Dell once. They are wired differently.

Hi I have been noticing that my fan has been working a lot then I NOTICED that my harddrive light is on quite a bit.  I noticed that the CPU usage sometimes hovers between 40% and 60%.  I deleted my Norton System Works and that did not take care of it.  My computer also takes about 20 minutes to boot up.  I have a HP zd7000 running Win XP Home 2002 w service pack 2.  I don't know much about computers just adding and deleting programs, web, chat, etc.  Any ideas as to what is causing this? My computer runs fine after awhile even though the harddrive light will come on and the fan will be at its highest level for hours at a time.  It's not hindering my ability to surf the web or use any of the other programs on the computer.  Let me know anybody has any suggestions.  Thanks, Bob G

PS the only software I've loaded is Iomega back up pro and I tunes.The first thing i would do is run the regular maintenence on that machine...In My Computer right click on C: and select Properties. In the first screen click Disk Cleanup.
Next from the same page select TOOLS on top and run disk DEFRAGMENTER and also Error checking...
These will take awhile so grab a coffee and a magazine.

Re-boot and see if the symptoms persist.

If they do run all your protection programs as well and report back.P.S. I just noticed the Iomega entry...are you running a TAPE drive or a Zip drive on that machine ? ?Hi my Omega drive is an external harddrive,  I think it's a 40 Gig.  I did the defrag and checked for errors and I'm still having spurts where the harddrive is contunually working.  I will wait to see if the PROBLEM is decreased at all over the weekend.  If it persists I'm going to wipe it out and start over.  If it still persists after that I'm taking it out back and give it the Office Space treatment.  Thanks for the help. BobAre these symptoms present if the external is removed from the system ? ?

If so DLoad and run the diagnostics from the manuf. site on the internal HDD with the external un-installed.

That HDD may be getting ready to go South for the Winter...

I've experienced a strange  :-? problem by a friend of mine.

When we startup (or restart) his computer. We hear a beep. Like it was a post error code from the bios.
When we remove all (1) USB-devices (in this case the Canon Lide30 scanner) no beeps are heard on startup.
When we plug in two USB devices  (the Canon Lide30 scanner and the Canon I560 printer) we hear two beeps at startup. With three devices we hear three beeps.
If we plug the devices into mine computer (almost similar, except the mobo is slightly different: asus p4c800-e deluxe) no beeps are heard
It doesn't matter if we plug the usb-devices into the front USB-ports or the USB-ports on the backside (directly on the mobo) of the computer.

The beeps are heard when we see the post screen with memory, harddisk en optical devices information. Windows hasn't begun loading from the harddisk.

The devices work just fine under windows xp professional edition SP2 and with all other updates (no problems are seen in the device-manager of windows).
We didn't have a PCI-card with USB ports to check if the beeps then still happens (when we put the devices on the USB-ports of that card).
We've also reset the bios configuration to default.

The configuration of the computer of my friend is:
P4 2,6 Ghz 800 Mhz FSB 2 Mb L2 cache
Asus P4P800 deluxe (with firmware/amibios version 1019)
2x 512 Mb and 2 x 256 Mb Kingston Hyperx memory modules (KITS)
Nec DVD-rewriter
Asus 9520/TD GRAPHICS card
Canon i560 printer
Canon Lide30 scanner
as third (testing) device we used my Kingston datatraveler elite USB-stick

Is this normal behavior? We tought that a while back we didn't hear these beeps (with the same configuration). Is maybe the mobo (almost) defect?
In the manual or on the INTERNET I can't find anything about this strange beep problem, so if anyone has a clue that would be great.
Thanx!

Remko

P.S. Asus has a bios upgrade (version 1021) but it's a beta... Does anyone has experience with asus beta-bios upgrades. Should we try it or should we leave it with the latest stable(?) version 1019?

A BIOS upgrade has been the downfall of many a good computer, especially a beta!  

The machine MAY be trying to boot from USB devices. See if there is an option in the BIOS to disable this if it is on and post back.  Thanx for your quick reply.

There are no USB devices in the boot device priority list (only floppy, cd-drive and the last in the list is the harddrive).

The USB configuration (in another submenu) is like:

USB function: 8 USB ports
Legacy USb Support: Auto
USB 2.0 Controller: Enabled
USB 2.0 Controller Mode: HiSpeed

I have an HP Pavillion XG833 Desktop, i have an Intel Socket 370 866MHz (PIII 866/256/133/1.7V) processor in it right now, this is the best processor i can put in my machine.

When i right click on My Computer and click Properties, when it shows the system info. The processor shows up as either 650MHz or 651MHz.

Whats the deal? Could a bent pin cause the speed reduction? Or is it compatibility issue?

-JekRead this

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph01767&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=57754Wow, thank you so much Tinygnome. That was a FAST reply. I appretiate it SO much. I'll let you know if this works.  Well, that wasnt exactly what i was looking for. I already know the processor speed and what not. But it is not showing it correctly. As i said, it should be 866MHz, when it only shows up as 651MHz.Anyone have any ideas? I wouldn't mind if you all posted atleast saying that you dont know whats going on, just so i know my post is being read. =D lol.inside CMOS setup, what is the speed of your CPU?Run Belarc Advisor (free at www.belarc.com) and see what it says.

Where did you get your speed information? Has it always been this way, or is this the first time you CHECKED, or noticed it or what?

Why did you ask about the bent pin? Were you playing with the CPU?Jek, have you checked this?
Quote

inside CMOS setup, what is the speed of your CPU?

Ideally, you would have a motherboard manual

hi mates how are you all..!!!!!
i need very urgent REPLY... whenever i connect to internet Via my phone line i've 56kps Modem
and i get this Error  

( your computer and the remote computer is not agree with the PPP CONTROLER ) :-?

i'm looking for your reply thanks in ADV...
This is not the same exact information you may have but this may help.i'm using MS XP pro  and my computer is p3 intel
55mhz
184 Ram
Via board

with hardware modem i get the ppp controler messege is there any way to fix it please

thank you