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Hello,
Please HELP! my laptop won't turn on when I push the power button. I have a Toshiba Satellite L455D-S5976 and its about 6 - 7 years old (I know is old, but was working just fine). When I press the power button the FAN spins for about 1 second then stops and that's it nothing else happens; some system indicator lights turn on like the AC power light, the On/Off light and the battery light but not the HDD light. Now these are the things that I've tried so far: 1) Removed the battery and the power supply and hold down the power button 30 seconds. Then plug in the AC adapter and try to start it. 2) Reseating the ram. 3) Replaced motherboard, Battery & Laptop AC adapter. I don't know what else to do. What do you guys think? could it be a bad ram stick or a bad HDD? Quote

3) Replaced motherboard, Battery & Laptop AC adapter.

wish we could report a person for SPAM! this person has 2.5 PAGES of spamLooks to have been cleaned up.

You can report spam with the "Report to MODERATOR" option which should appear in the lower-right of the post. (There might be a post count requirement, not sure on the DETAILS)ok I didn't know if you could report a person and not just a topic but anyways this thread can be DELETED if needed

Just read on another forum that GHz is no longer a valid way to judge processor speed. They said it was like trying to determine car speed by engine rpms. They said the only way to compare processor speeds was to use benchmark data. Is this true? Where dos one find this benchmark data? Thanks.Benchmarks are best for overall.

But depending on what your running the overall core design, L1, L2, L3 cache supported instruction sets SSE2, SSE3 etc, FSB, 32 or 64 bit execution, TDP...

Additionally the CPU is also affected by the motherboard performance such as a lower END motherboard might support the CPU, but might not be the best of performance as well as features might not be available. *I ran into this when going cheap on a AMD FX-8350 4Ghz build. Found out after the fact that the chipset doesnt support the 4.2Ghz Turbo that the CPU was advertised as having.

It really comes down to what your going to run with it. If your running a SINGLE threaded application and ran it on a Dual Core 2.8Ghz and a Quad Core 2.8Ghz with same core design and cache layout/allocation per core, you would notice very little difference.

Clock speed alone should never be used as for I have a 1.3 Ghz Sempron Kabini Quadcore 25 watt TDP that blows my 3.0 Ghz Pentium 4 HT 95Watt out of the water performance wise. However with some (OLDER) single-threaded applications the Pentium 4 3.0 Ghz HT is better. However most modern applications that are multi-threaded the 1.3 Ghz runs way better.

Clock Speed is only an indicator when all other things between the processors being compared is effectively Equal.

For example- an 8088 at a higher clock speed than another 8088 processor is going to be faster. Once you start comparing different processors- even similar ones such as the 8088 versus an 8086; the differences in the processor design have larger effects, an eventually- once we start comparing CPUs with vastly different designs- the architecture difference has a much greater effect than the clock rate on how fast things are processed.

If it was possible to do so, for example, a older 286 processor overclocked to 10Ghz would still be vastly outperformed by a Pentium 4 chip, solely due to the architecture improvements in the chip design that occurred in the meantime.

If you want to compare two systems/processors in terms of raw speed a tool like GeekBench usually fits the bill. I MENTION that SINCE I used it last week to get a reading on all the systems i have that can run it. It also runs on a number of platforms/systems so if you were inclined you could compare the raw speed of a Smartphone or tablet's processor with a desktop or laptop system.

Hi,
      I just got a new computer, like 3 hours ago, this computer would be perfect for most of my games but it's lacking in dedicated video ram. Apparently, people can increase theirs by changing stuff in BIOS, but I can't enter it. I power off, then on, and I've tried pushing all the F#'s and ctrl+alt+enter and just pressing Del, but none of them GET me to it. How can I get to the BIOS, if it's even posssible?
Specs:
Processor   Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E7500 2.93GHz
Manufacturer   Intel
Speed   2.9 GHz
NUMBER of Cores   2
Video Card 1   Intel(R) 4 Series Internal Chipset
Manufacturer   Intel
Chipset   Intel(R) 4 Series Internal Chipset
Dedicated Memory   64.0 MB
Total Memory   1.7 GB
Video Card 2   Intel(R) 4 Series Internal Chipset
Manufacturer   Intel
Chipset   Intel(R) 4 Series Internal Chipset
Dedicated Memory   64.0 MB
Total Memory   1.7 GB
Memory   4.0 GB
Operating System   Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Edition Service Pack 1 (build 7601), 64-bit
Service Pack   1
Size   64 Bit
Edition   Professional
Display Maximum Resolution   1920 x 1080
DVD   HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH50N
CD   HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH50N
Drive   
Size   139.3 GB
Free   123.4 GBNew Used I am guessing based on fact that the hardware is a Core 2 Duo... hopefully you paid less than $100 for that system.

Is it a HP or Dell or what brand and model Number or is it a custom build system you bought from someone?

If its a custom built system the make/model# of motherboard would help such as ASUS P61Q-X7S

Additionally the Integrated Video is SHARED Memory with System Memory. You would get far better performance from a $30 video card added such as a AMD Radeon HD 5450 or nVidia GeForce GT 430 instead of integrated video. I wouldnt put any high end video cards into that system because its either PCIE 1.1 or 2.0 and modern cards are 3.0 and beyond and overkill when paired up with the old CPU. The CPU will be a bottleneck to a modern video card although the AMD and nVidia cards I listed would be a good match and low cost as well as can be added without a power supply upgrade if the power supply is at least 350 watts.

 The integrated video might max out at only 128MB. If your lucky it will max out at 256MB. But this system is 7 years old or OLDER. The CPU that is 7 years old could be paired with a motherboard that is older if this was upgraded by prior owner or mixed parts system.

I'd add a dedicated video card vs using integrated. Integrated performance will be poor.

I have a Lenovo ThinkPad has Winxows 8 and when I push the POWER button the green light on the FN button doesn't light up and I don't hear the fan kicking on. I tried taking the battery out. I thought my online school locked it since they provide the laptop. But they didn't since I paid for it.the product is 20C6008SOS the serial number is PF04FQQT the BIOS J9ET98WW(2.18). Please help me I cannot continue school and get my bachelor degree in information of technology emphasis in SECURITY. THANK you. Marie.for your guys helpDo you get any response when you plug the charger in in terms of lights?  Try turning it on with the battery removed but the machine plugged in so it's being POWERED directly off the mains.  If that fails I'd try a different power adapter in case that's the problem.You said that the fan did not COME on, but does the led in the power button come on?

i already searched  but didnt find any info so am hopin  somebody here can help. i need to KNOW what video cards are compatible with a amd athlon 1.25ghz processor i have no idea as to the specs of my mother board my guess its  junk! if any one  can help replie here or email me at [email protected] , ty  very much fer ur time (computer stats=lan plus amd athlon xp, mother board k7sem, memorie card 256 but  in use 224mb, bios phonix or winbod chip ) lol just  found out this stuff maybee its help  ty again!Run Everest Home and find out what type of motherboard you have as WELL as the operating SYSTEM, RAM, etc.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

I can't make much of your post as it is. When you respond please take your time, use better grammar, a spell checker, and lose the text messaging so others can communicate with you in English.  

Well, I found a video card already no thanks to  you  and my spelling  was a bit  RUSTY but you obviously understood it. Its nice to know that you made yourself look good to others by jumping all over me because of my spelling ,but am sure  you make mistakes your self, after all your not GOD let alone Bill Gates .Next time consider that maybe the user  was in a rush before you jump on his throat!. Also she is not beautiful she old and ugly(try upgrading). Whatever.  




What's your new user name gonna be ? ?Wangming the second?
Proph_2?
GX3_Man?
Something like that.
Some people . . .Better not be PeckerWood. Peckerwood 2 perhaps ? ?

My system: AMD ATHLON 64 3700+ San Diego core
Biostar uATX T-6100-939

I am not a gamer, and plan to buy a 256MB video card for this new computer.  I was wondering if anybody
had model suggestions for a video card in the 50 to 100 buck range?   I'm also wondering if the type of memory on the video card matters, as to compatbility with the MOTHER board.  The mobo is DDR 184 pin,
so does the mobo care if the memory on the video card is DDR2?  Thanks in advance for any help.   That has a PCI-e slot so your price range is the biggest factor. Go to www.newegg.com and look around for ideas, read the reviews, etc and get a better idea. The fact that you are not a gamer means that any ATI or nVidia based card should work just fine.

The RAM on the graphics card is irrelevant to what is on the motherboard. Nothing has to match.  **Just my 2 CENTS**  I don't do much gaming myself and have tried 2 different cards in last  year.  I think for a very decent card that is respectable, you can't beat this deal*. I own this one myself and PAID 24.00 more 7 months ago.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814143049

(nVidia geforce 7600 GT)    sale price after a 50.00 rebate       89.00

Is there a reason why you need a 256Mb card if you're not a gamer?I've noticed that the video is slower to respond than that on my old board, and when I bought the Biostar, I knew from reasearch that the onboard video wasn't the best, so I went ahead on it with the idea that I would add a video card.  I'm sure I could get by with 128MB, but I was thinking that the difference in price isn't significant so why not go with the better card.

Meanwhile, I'll take GX1's advice, and also check out the board that honvetops has suggested.  Thanks folks.

i need drivers for an integrated modem in a gateway PC running windows 2000. the modem is integrated with the motherboard, and i know the motherboard is a MSI MS-6312 gateway BROOKINGS ESSENTIAL flex motherboard, this motherboard does not show up on msi's site, nor can i find working drivers for the modem. all i know is that it is a INTEL 8xx chipset, that is somehow connected to the onboard AUDIO. it would be greatly appreciated if someone could HELP me find the drivers.Get your drivers from Gateway and nowhere else.

hello, i have a problem with my harddrive right now. i just installed win98 i had winxp but now when i try to install games i get thiers no space left on hard drive. its a 160gb hard drive and its showing 5gb space and its full. i need a way to add space to the partion that fat32 is on. i cant reinstall win98 and i cant use winxp it messed up. thiers no boot files for it and its missing HALF of its windows. i need like a freeware PROGRAM to edit partions, if thier is away to do so. if some one can help thanks.If you had a 5 gig drive that may have been a restore partition you just overwrote, especially if it was a laptop.

How about some details on the equipment involved and how you managed to get in this position.

TO MAKE WIN 98 work this way it MUST be installed first on the first primary partition not after XP.

Problem started while using it the IMAGE became distorted with sadows then this happens regularly everytime it STARTS after about 10 minutes then after some time it won't start at all except when I press the plast part below the power button. I opened it and found that when I press on a chip the image will distort and when it is distorted and I press again on this chip it returns normal but the computer is frozen anyhow the chip is concealed by a piece of thick copper then it is covered with  a sheet of aluminium amd above it is located a small circuit connected to the MB the chip is located cloase to the processor so I thought it might be overheat problem so i tailored a piece of ALUMINIM foil to cover the ALUMINUM cover of the chip and to go above the fan of the processor for heat transfer but the probelm was the same I upgraded the BIOS and it worked onece or twicw after that then I removed the aluminum foil sheet that i tailored then tried to start the computer but it is not starting the processor fan is working but nothing else nothing on the monitor and no beeps so please help me LOCALIZE the problem it is a gateway 450SX4 LaptopThat's a long sentence...

Sounds like the MBoard has a problem and or the graphics chip or both.

Do some research into prices of replacement parts as laptops can get expensive to repair. This will tell you how far to go with it. Most repairs are not do-it yourselfer type things on laptops i'm afraid.

patio.   8-)

I need some help I DROPPED my camera on top of my cpu and the SCREEN went blue and TOLD me to reboot my computer. So I turned off my computer and now it will not come back on. When I hit the power button it beeps and then I GET a screen that says Parity Check 2 and nothing ELSE happens. I have tried all the function keys and that does not help. Can someone please help me.
Re-seat your RAM.

To all dear friends,
How to solve this problem, pls?  

I got this message everytime while booting after adding another
256 MB,Kingston Pc2100,c.2.5 184-pin DIMM.
Message:    CMOS/GPNV  Checksum Bad
                  Press F1 to run setup
                  Press F2 to load default values and continue
I hv to press F2 everytime.I enter to setup but not sure where  the stuff is.

The PC is Soltex,2GHz,now 512MB,60GB.

Thanks all for your reply in waiting.Have you ever pressed F1 to see how much memory is being RECOGNIZED?Also that CMOS battery may be weak or bad...about the size of a dime on your MBoard.

Part # CR 2032 available at any computer store.Yes the new memory is recognized. As U told me might be Cmos battery. thanks ALLI WOULD also travel to crucial.com and enter your MBoard info and make sure you have not purchased the wrong RAM...

My grandson made a mark on my LCD monitor using a CD marker and my usual methods of removing marks from glass screens don't work.

Any suggestions?  

I am considering the PURCHASE of a Mr. Clean Magic eraser.


Sandy in FLretrieve grandson,  firmly grasp child by neck,  spray his a_s with alcohol and gently rub screen in a back and forth MOTION, while shacking neck vigorously !  

if that was a permanent CD marker, u might have some problems there.Unable to retrieve grandson as he is now one state away.  Grabbed q-tip instead and the marks vanished in an instant.  Thank you.Whoa, pretty powerful q-tip there.  LOL.   Ummm, did that q-tip have a little assistance from SOMETHING else?Acetone perhaps ? ?It was a relatively small green mark.   Just so other people with this problem know what to do I USED Walgreen's ISOPROPYL alcohol 70% I am new to these LCD screens and I was so afraid I would burn a hole in it or something.

Sandy

I'm looking to intall a new power supply on my HP computer, something around 500W. Can any power supply be installed on any computer or are there differences like in graphics cards and stuff like PCI-E and APX?500W is quite a bit of power?  Why do you think you need that much?  Tell us about your system.

"Can any power supply be installed on any computer ...?"   No, you generally need to match the form factor of the power with the case and motherboard.  In other words, if you have a mid-tower case with an ATX motherboard, you should get an ATX power supply.  And, yes, the features of your motherboard, such as PCI Express vs. OLDER AGP and SATA hard drives vs. older IDE/PATA hard drives must also be taken into consideration.  

If you motherboard preceded PCI Express, you probably have a 20-PIN connector on the motherboard for the power cord from the power supply.  But, if you have newer motherboard with PCI Express, you'll have a 24-pin power connector on the motherboard.
  
So, clearly, there are differences in computer cases and motherboards and power supplies and you must select one that matches your hardware.  Also keep in mind that some major brand computers do not CONFORM to industry-standards, such as the ATX form factor, in their case design; this means you may need to get a "proprietary" power supply to match their proprietary design.  

If you can tell us the exact model of your computer, maybe someone can give more specific advice.
And some manufacturer's use proprietary power supplies with unusual connectors.Thanks for your replies very helpful.  The system is actually a HP Pavilion a562n. The reason for a new power supply is to run a more powerful graphics card I installed and my current power supply is only 250W and it requires at least 450W. As for my motherboard I know very little about motherboards the connections are definiately not PCI-E however.HP and Compaq Desktop PCs -  Motherboard Specifications, P4SD-LA (Oxford) states that you have an AGP slot.  So, do not get a PCI Express card; you can not use it.

What card did you get or intend to get?  450W is a rather high requirment.  What is your objective in this upgrade?  A good gaming machine?  

If gaming is not the objective and you're just seeking better performance for general use, I'll  suggest something like this:  eVGA 256-A8-N313-LX GeForce FX5500 256MB 128-bit DDR AGP 8X Video Card - Retail
 Note that the statement power requirement for this card is 250W minimum.  So, you could feel confident in buying it.The graphics card I installed is a nVidia GeForce 7300 GT.  I really enjoy playing BF2 so I wanted a card that would run the game at the highest graphics levels. Currently even without running full power it is more than capable but everytime the machine starts it provides a warning and notice that the card is running at less than required power and will cut its performance. I appreciate your help and the information you have provided so far.Some of the major brand computers have proprietary power supplies, meaning they do differ from the industry-standard ATX specifications.  I do not know what the situation is concerning your particular model computer.  However, careful inspection should provide some solid info.  Does your motherboard have a standard 20 pin or 24 pin connector for the power cord from the power supply?  Page 32 of this Power Supply Design Guide shows dimensions of an ATX power supply.  Besides the outer dimensions, you should also be aware of the spacing of threaded mounting holes; do they match the holes in the back of your computer case?  

If you have a local retail seller of computer components, taking your power supply into the store and ASKING for confirmation from a sales person that they a power supply they sell will fit your computer might be wise.

Is the drive seen CORRECTLY in the BIOS? IS it plugged into the socket firmly?Did this just happen and if so turn off the machine and turn back on.  WINDOWS should find it and load the drivers.  Is it shown in System, Device manager? Have you gone into ADD NEW HARDWARE?Who are we talking too? :-?Gee I have no idea!  What happened to the guy's question?It's another isolated incident. :-?

Just another drive by poster.  

Be on the lookout for Suiadon. That's who started all of this.on the look out? you make it seem like i'm a criminal...

the problem's fixed...i thought i posted that up here already.

guess not.

I apologize for the whole...no question dealy...not sure what happened. i had it posted, i'm sure...We have had a rash of people REMOVING their question after other HELPERS had started RESPONDING, which is confusing and frustrating.

We'll take you off the Most Wanted list.

Howdy all,
I had a old dell OptiPlex 755 with Win 7 64 bit. It was running on my home network. I used it for email and some web STUFF. Nothing really fancy. Anyway the POWER supply toasted and the system is down. I am starting to look for another machine. I could replace the power supply, easy fix, but I figure it's time to move up a little. Anyone know where I can buy a rebuild or something cheap. I would like to run windows 10 so it would need a little power.
 

THANKS for the IDEAS.
I have a 755 in my spare stuff. Actually, it is better than the machine I am on at this moment. The 755 runs windows 10 well.
IMO you should replace the power supply and keep it on hand, Sometimes you can pick up an old 755 on eBay for parts.  I see some PSU for the 755 under $20. So for $20 you can extend useful life of the755. I will give that a try. So a new power supply it is!

Thanks for your time

Well did a quick check and found one on amazon. Its $25 used or $50 new. Went used. No moving parts in these so it works or it don't. I will get it next week. I will let you know how I make out. If I crash and burn I will just say to h$ll with it and buy a new nicer system.

Just wanted to mention in case you want an UPGRADE if your running a lesser powerful Core 2 Duo you could upgrade to a better Core 2 Duo cheap.

Here is 755 CPU support list:

http://en.community.dell.com/cfs-file/__key/communityserver-discussions-components-files/3514/1067.755_5F00_CPU.JPG

The Core 2 Duo CPU's with 4MB L2 Cache make a considerable performance difference.

I upgraded a system from a 1.8Ghz Core 2 Duo E2160 with 1MB L2 Cache to a 2.4Ghz Core 2 Duo E6600 with 4MB Cache and its so much better with the E6600 dual-core.

Sadly the motherboard I have doesnt support the Quadcore, but yours does. Quadcores come at a premium but are affordable.Thanks. I will look into this as well...

Well I finally got the power supply in and I installed it. The machine came right up and all is fine. I am still going to load Win10 on it later. Thanks for the ideas and help!

I've been looking for a solution for this problem for a while, and to no avail there is not anything online that has helped THUS far.

My problem has been going on for about a year now, and I don't really feel like paying people to take a look at my computer just to tell me that they have no idea what is wrong with it. The situation is that my mouse, for some odd reason, tends to respond like a double-click / multiple clicks when I only press the mouse button once. This problem originated with a Microsoft Intellipoint mouse, I thought that it was quite possibly the mouse that was dying out (As it was a couple years old) so I went out and bought a cheap OPTICAL mouse, as many people do when they don't want to buy a costly mouse for an older computer. So the mouse I have now is a ValGear (Purchased from Wal~Mart) mouse. It didn't fix the problem, but I wasn't too concerned with it as it was mostly just a minor problem. Now this problem is EVER-present, not just randomly double-clicking everything I single-click but as I found out in another program when I clicked to zoom in it zoomed in approximately 4 times in this particular instance. So I finally figured it's time to look again see what may be causing the problem.

The system I'm running is an older one, but I have updated it, keeping it fairly up to date and it still runs approximately as good as the brand-new lower end systems. (It can run World of Warcraft, City of Heroes, and various other games without too much hassle). The OPERATING system I am using is: Microsoft Windows XP Professional Service Pack 2 And the processor is an AMD Athlon 1.10ghz I unfortunately am not able to tell you the motherboard that's in it as I don't remember what it was and the name on it is faded to the point where you can't read it. (And I can't, at the moment, FIND a program that will get the information for me.)

I've tried that steps that Microsoft lists for troubleshooting an Intellipoint mouse, and I have removed and reinstalled the drivers / mouse multiple times and still nothing. Hopefully one of you might be able to help me out.

And it's a USB mouse, yes.To get all the information you would ever need use Everest Home, which is free.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

Have you taken a look at the Mouse settings in Control Panel? Sometimes basic adjustments can be made there.

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/tips/clicks.mspx

Alright, thank you for the help. I definitely made sure that my mouse configuration was proper and I did check the folder options and that was all fine and dandy as well.

Here is teh specifications from the program you linked me:


Motherboard Name      MSI K7T Power/Pro/Pro2/Pro2-A/Turbo/Turbo2/Turbo Limited Edition
Motherboard ID      07/01/2002-8363-686B-6A6LMM4AC-00

Mouse Name      HID-compliant mouse
Mouse Buttons      5
Mouse Hand      Right
Pointer Speed      1
Double-Click Time      200 msec
X/Y Threshold      6 / 10
Wheel Scroll Lines      3

Active Window Tracking      Disabled
ClickLock      Disabled
Hide Pointer While Typing      Enabled
Mouse Wheel      Present
Move Pointer To Default Button      Disabled
Pointer Trails      Disabled
Sonar      Disabled


Like I said sometimes it doesn't happen, but sometimes it clicks like I clicked the button 4 times. I've tried my double-click speed on all the settings, and that hasn't fixed it. I'm just wondering if it might be time to just move on to a new computer. (I have one in the works, so it wouldn't be too far off.)

Also, let me know if you need more specs please.No need for a new computer. There might however be a need for a new mouse....i recommend Logitech.

In 2011, I bought 2 units of WD My Book Essential 2TB external HDD to backup my working files.

Unit A is being used at least once a week for backup, while unit B is not being used regularly, probably just a handful of time 2-3 years ago.

Now that unit A is full, as I took the unit B from the cabinet and connected it, it doesn't seem to be RECOGNISED:

• I got the pop-up message saying the device is ready to use.
• It appears in My Computer, but without the capacity information. Double clicking it doesn't open it, just the green loading bar.
• It appears in Device Manager under "Disk drives", but under "Other devices", there is a "WD SES Device USB Device" with yellow exclamation mark.

So today I bring it to the computer shop, same problem. The technician said the HDD is dead and there is nothing can be done.

My first question: How possible is it that a HDD that's rarely been used will die for no reason?

Weird enough, after I reach home and try to connect the HDD again, this time I get the  scan the disk to fix problem message (can't remember the EXACT message), and after the scanning is completed, the HDD just works as normal!

My second question: How can I be sure whether the HDD is really healthy?

I'm hesitated to use it, worrying it may be dead again anytime. 

Anyway, the computer shop technician suggested that I should get a mobile HDD instead (which does not REQUIRE power input) since I'm only using it for backup purpose, and it's slightly cheaper (not much though).

My third question: Practically, what are the differences between the two types of external HDD (one needs external power and one doesn't) ?

Thanks in advance. My first question: How possible is it that a HDD that's rarely been used will die for no reason?

HDDs don't die for no reason, they die for a reason. You just don't know why this one died. An HDD can die at any time, even after being in storage since new. In fact in a long-stored HDD the spindle lubricant can pool at one end of the spindle and prevent proper spinup the first time it is powered up.

My second question: How can I be sure whether the HDD is really healthy?

You can run the maker's diagnostic tool, WD DATA Lifeguard Diagnostics, but you still can't be sure an HD won't fail. That's why we do backups.

My third question: Practically, what are the differences between the two types of external HDD (one needs external power and one doesn't) ?

An external drive without a power supply (wall wart or AC power) gets its power from the USB socket it is connected to. You need to be sure the USB socket can supply enough power. If it can't you can overheat or damage the computer system or hub and/or get flakey operation.  With an independently powered HDD, you don't have to worry about that.
Is the other WD plugged in when testing the 2nd one ? ? Quote from: Salmon Trout on March 25, 2016, 06:03:11 AM

HDDs don't die for no reason, they die for a reason. You just don't know why this one died. An HDD can die at any time, even after being unused and brough out of storage. In fact in a long-stored HDD the spindle lubricant can pool at one end of the spindle and prevent proper spinup the first time it is powered up.

An external drive without a power supply (wall wart or AC power) gets its power from the USB socket it is connected to. You need to be sure the USB socket can supply enough power. If it can't you can overheat or damage the computer system or hub and/or get flakey operation.  With an independently powered HDD, you don't have to worry about that.

Is the other WD plugged in when testing the 2nd one ? ?

I have windows 10 and i want to dual BOOT into windows 7, but i want to use my external hard drive as a local disk in windows 7

Idk what i did but i went on command prompt and used diskpart and formatted my hard drive into ntfs
And its taking so long to format

Pls helpWindows will not boot from an external without a sledgehammer and a full DAY of tweaking so your wasting your time...You really should just GET another INTERNAL disk (assuming this is a desktop) - Windows does not work PROPERLY on external drives.  Also, unless your drive and PC support USB 3.0 the interface will limit the speed quite a lot.The only practical way to use an external drive to boot windows is to prise open the case and remove the drive (assuming it is a sata/ide drive with an adapter) and fit in into a spare bay in your PC as an internal drive. You might as well keep it as an external and buy another internal drive.

I update from windows 7 to Windows 10 Pro, and every so often my mouse cursor disappears from the desktop screen when I reboot. I USUALLY have to choose a system RESTORE point in-order to get it to show up on the desktop again, but for obvious reasons this is such a pain and causes me problems. Is there a simpler way to get my mouse cursor back on-screen WITHOUT having to resort to doing a System Restore? And does anyone know what could be causing it to disappear every so often? I have tried a different mouse and the same THINGS happens. Thanks!

Hello. Today Black Ops 3 crashed when i launch a game from windows, when i was in starting intro cinematic video. ( just first video after i click run game from Windows 10 )
I am using Windows 10 Pro. Today when i click run game , on first cinematic video it crashed with Radar_Pre_Leak_64 ( before MENU ).
Appcrash
Event name : Radar_Pre_Leak_64

Exception Code 0xc0000005


Is this related to game or my memory ? In memtest86 no errors.
What is this , Radar_Pre_Leak_64 ?



My pc:
4790k stock
2x8gb DDR3 Kingston 1600mhz Hyperx
Corsair 750 RM
Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark2


I think memory is compatible with my motherboard, because on official kingston site there is my motherboard on list with this memory KIT.
 You've posted this same question on forums all over the INTERNET. At some point too many cooks will add to confusion - either for you or for us - or conflicting / contradictory advice. So its hardware or software related?Activision Support may be better able to help with this as for they will have a listing of all fault codes and ERROR conditions related to the game and be able to point out how/why a crash like this would happen. Activision may require validity that this is a legal LEGIT licensed copy of the game as for games that have been cracked are full of bugs and they wont help get a broken by a cracked copy running for you if that is the case at all which we hope it is not. Just stating the facts, not saying your copy is illegal.

 .... when its something we havent seen before we run to google. Thats where we find that either there is a solution and someone didnt look on google, or failed to find it because of different mismatched search words, or that there are many inquiries from same person scattered among forums fishing for a solution.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Call_of_Duty:_Black_Ops_III

It could be either in regards to question .... could be a bug ... could be corrupt software ... could be a driver ... could be a crash error condition from hardware. Anything is possible with this condition. But you did the right move in running memtest86. Most game crashes are memory or video card related.

If he has queried that many places i doubt it's legit....just sayin.

hi guys ,
do u remember my thread when i was choosin' between video cards .... anyway ... i bought the XFX 7300 GT ... it worked well for a month

then 2 days AGO something bad started to happen .... i was playing winning eleven ... and then colors started to diffuse together and strange colors APPEARED on the screen .... and this repeated every time i played since then ...

so is the problem with the video card or what ?Are you only having the problem when playing...Winning Eleven? :-?

Another thought.How does it work on your previous video adaptor?
The one before you got this new one.

Remember we are checking your video card/adaptor......
Not worrying over gaming right now. Quote

Are you only having the problem when playing...Winning Eleven? :-?

Another thought.How does it work on your previous video adaptor?
The one before you got this new one.

Remember we are checking your video card/adaptor......
Not worrying over gaming right now.

Some things to try-
Disable "write combining" in display properties/settings/troubleshoot, this can solve some memory bugs that cause odd behaivior.

Reduce Hardware acceleration, this can correct problems in specific games but must be manually turned back up after your finished playing the game.

Uninstall video drivers then install latest Nvidia drivers ,drivers here-http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_2k_93.71.html

mido.... Could you please list info on the new pc ..........?

Make , Model and specifications .

dl65  

you might want to try a different monitor on your computer and see if you have the same problem. also, try your monitor on another computer and see if the colours blend together on that computer. doing this will either absolve your monitor or your computer.

ok i had to add a new power supply cause my pc wouldnt boot up.. now it boots up but i have no INFO being sent to my monitor.. monitor does work and all the cables work cause i tested with another tower.. some say video card. others say motherboard.. i have a compaq presario..You havent SAID too much.  When did this happen and why did you think it was the power supply?  It boots up you say ...how many beeps?  You said it wasnt the monitor but......have you tried another monitor just to be sure?  When you tried the monitor on another tower it worked fine?See below.First... I hope you removed the old power supply... Lol   anyway... It sounds LIKE a problem with the video card and the mother board... Make sure that the video card is in its slot nice and tight (Do not be afraid to push it in a little bit... NOT WITH A HAMMER THOUGH! I LEARNT THAT THE HARD WAY!!!)... If it still doesnt work remove the VIDEOCARD and get yourself a can of SPRAY air... And spray inside the slot... Then put the card back in... If it still does not work call GEEK SQUAD

GEEK SQUAD RULES, GEEK SQUAD RULES!

Hi, I'm trying to get a VGA-monitor in my room to connect to a tower in another room. Each have THIER serperate Monitor/Towers and are connected through a LAN. Both computers are running XP as well.

So Essentially, I want to either extend the cable from my current monitor to the wanted computer or, if possible, connect the monitor to the comp through a LAN/Program/etc...

Any help would be appreciated.<3?i'm not getting what you try to tell.
are you saying that you have 2 pc in 2 different room, both connect through LAN, why you want to connect monitor from this room to the cpu at other room,

if you want to see the same thing display on pc at the other room, you can use remote desktop to do that.Basically, my personall computer is to *censored* to run a game I have on the "Family" computer. Will remote desktop STILL use my personal computer's hardware, or does it just re-rout my monitor to the computer it's remotely connected to?now i get what you mean,
it will not take your hardware but RAM and bandwith.
 depend on what game you are playing, but sending VIDEO signal, keyboard and mouse signal over the LAN may cos your respond time slow during game.

i SEEM to be unable to play DVDs. i thought there might have been something wrong with the DVD but when i tried to play it on a desktop, it worked fine. i do see the name of the DVD when i go to search for it to play it. but instead of having a normal icon, i see one of those icons that show up when it hasn't fully loaded. am i confusing anyone?? lollYes and no.lol

Are you using a laptop? :-?

What DVD playing software are you using on the
one that don't work?Did it ever work correctly? If it used to, what happened between then and now?  What DVD playing software are you using?

See below.something to check with,
1, your laptop or desktop have DVD drive?
2, did you INSTALL any DVD player?eg. power DVD, real player....
Okay, for me to help you I have to ask you a few questions first

1.) Does your Computer (Laptop/Desktop) computer EVEN have a DVD Drive?
2.) What DVD viewing software are you using (I.E. PowerDVD, Windows Media Player)
3.) Has the computer suffered a fall (A Physical Fall, Like dropping it)
4.) Is the DVD drive software installed?

One thing you should do first is go to device list to see if it is working correctly... Instructions below:
1.) Open the Control Panel
2.) From the control panel DOUBLE left click on System
3.) On the top of the window there should be some tabs... Left click once on the "HARDWARE" tab
4.) Then click on Device List

If there is a problem with your hardware it should show up in the window that just opened... Please answer my above questions if you want more help...soyunee,are you confused yet?

OK, i'm average on computers, but when it comes to anything technical i am horrible.  Awile back I got a new video card. ATI Radeon 9200 AGP.  I read up on the whole pci and agp thing.  SO i have a windows xp HOME addition.  When i read my manual it says i have 3 pci card slots, nothing about AGP.  Now i'm guessing this means that this card doesn't work with my computer so i was goin to give it to my friend and maybe later get a pci video card.  Just making sure first that there wasnt anyway i could put this graphics card on my computer b4 i gave it away and this seemed like a good place to ask.Why don't you post the computer or motherboard make and model. If you don't know, download Everest Home, run a report and post it here. With what you have PROVIDED we cannot advise.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

  Version   EVEREST v2.20.405  
  Homepage   http://www.lavalys.com/  
  Report Type   Report Wizard  
  Computer   MICHELE-2M9KT1U  
  Generator   Owner  
  Operating System   Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)  
  Date   2007-01-25  
  Time   19:27  


Summary

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
      
  Computer:  
   Operating System   Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition  
   OS Service Pack   Service Pack 2  
   DirectX   4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)  
   Computer Name   MICHELE-2M9KT1U  
   User Name   Owner  
  
  Motherboard:  
   CPU Type   Intel Pentium 4, 2800 MHz (21 x 133)  
   Motherboard Name   Dell Dimension 2400  
   Motherboard Chipset   Intel Brookdale-G i845GEV  
   System Memory   512 MB (PC2700 DDR SDRAM)  
   BIOS Type   Phoenix (12/02/03)  
   Communication Port   Communications Port (COM1)  
   Communication Port   ECP Printer Port (LPT1)  
  
  Display:  
   Video Adapter   Intel(R) 82845G/GL/GE/PE/GV Graphics Controller (64 MB)  
   3D Accelerator   Intel Extreme Graphics  
   Monitor   Dell E773c [17" CRT] (6418047N30PT)  
  
  Multimedia:  
   Audio Adapter   Intel 82801DB ICH4 - AC'97 Audio Controller [A-1]  
  
  Storage:  
   IDE Controller   Intel(R) 82801DB Ultra ATA Storage Controller - 24CB  
   Floppy Drive   Floppy disk drive  
   Disk Drive   ST380011A (80 GB, 7200 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)  
   Optical Drive   JLMS DVD-ROM XJ-HD166 (16x/48x DVD-ROM)  
   SMART Hard Disks Status   OK  
  
  Partitions:  
   C: (NTFS)   72653 MB (41274 MB free)  
  
  Input:  
   Keyboard   Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard  
   Mouse   PS/2 Compatible Mouse  
  
  Network:  
   Network Adapter   Broadcom 440x 10/100 Integrated Controller (65.189.31.90)  
   Modem   Intel(R) 537EP V9x DF PCI Modem  
  
  Peripherals:  
   Printer   CAPTURE FAX BVRP  
   Printer   Dell AIO Printer A920  
   Printer   Microsoft Office Document Image Writer  
   USB1 Controller   Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]  
   USB1 Controller   Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]  
   USB1 Controller   Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]  
   USB2 Controller   Intel 82801DB ICH4 - Enhanced USB2 Controller [A-1]  
   USB Device   Dell AIO Printer A920  
   USB Device   Generic USB Hub  
   USB Device   USB Printing Support  


Well... If it says you do not have any AGP slots then you dont have any USE for an AGP Video card... And from your stats that you posted there is no information about any ports... Do not give it to a friend... Because that is a pretty nice video card... Sell it to your friend... You have no use for it from what I see... Sorry bud

I have the PC shut down problem while Switch Off the Fan.

When PC is ON at that TIME if I switch FAN off, the Fan Switch make sound like Sparkling Inside the box, but when PC is Off but FAN is on and while Switching the fan off I didn't hear any Sparking Sound inside the Box.

All wiring/switch are just 1 year old (I use Anchor Fireproof wires and Fan Regulator. Just today I change all Switches in Board  and the New one is from Anchor - Anchor is good reputed electric accessories brand in India)

Is PSU going to Kaput and Signaling me to get replaced it?

My System is:

P IV, 2.4 processor Pentium,
Sony DVD RW DRU 800, Floppy Drive, 80 GB Samsung HDD, 512+128 mb RAM.
Samsung 793s monitor, Logitech Keyboard, MS Basic Optical Mouse.

If PSU is problem which one will you suggest, I use my PC for Office work, average 12-15 hrs a day.

Any other suggestion for solution or I need to replace PSU?

ThanksIt sounds like a power supply issue and you told us nothing about that. What is the make and wattage?

For a replacement I would suggest Antec at www.newegg.com Those "el cheapo" power supplies are unreliable and can DAMAGE other components. If the PSU doesn't sell for at least $50 you can rest assured it's junk from China. What is the computer make/model? Sometimes this is relevant. Quote

It sounds like a power supply issue and you told us nothing about that. What is the make and wattage?

For a replacement I would suggest Antec at www.newegg.com Those "el cheapo" power supplies are unreliable and can damage other components. If the PSU doesn't sell for at least $50 you can rest assured it's junk from China. What is the computer make/model? Sometimes this is relevant.

I have the PC shut down problem while Switch Off the Fan.
 
When PC is ON at that time if I switch FAN off, the Fan Switch make sound like Sparkling Inside the box, but when PC is Off but FAN is on and while Switching the fan off I didn't hear any Sparking Sound inside the Box.
 
All wiring/switch are just 1 year old (I use Anchor Fireproof wires and Fan Regulator. Just today I change all Switches in Board  and the New one is from Anchor - Anchor is good reputed electric accessories brand in India)
 
Is PSU going to Kaput and Signaling me to get replaced it?

Quote

I have the PC shut down problem while Switch Off the Fan.
 
When PC is ON at that time if I switch FAN off, the Fan Switch make sound like Sparkling Inside the box, but when PC is Off but FAN is on and while Switching the fan off I didn't hear any Sparking Sound inside the Box.
 
All wiring/switch are just 1 year old (I use Anchor Fireproof wires and Fan Regulator. Just today I change all Switches in Board  and the New one is from Anchor - Anchor is good reputed electric accessories brand in India)
 
Is PSU going to Kaput and Signaling me to get replaced it?

Aside from drifting off into PSU discussions I just don't quite 'get this'. :-?

Turn on the wangming filter. It will all become clear.

Sparking Sound inside the Box.

Sparking Sound from the Switch.

Quote

Sparking Sound inside the Box.

Quote

Sparking Sound from the Switch.

Are you sure where the noise is coming from?
All switches will spark when turning off.
Try unplugging your speakers and see if it disappears.

All switches will spark when turning off.

Quote

All switches will spark when turning off.

I don't believe you have a problem.

I have a Compaq Presario V3700, and it won't turn on unless I hear it up for a while with a hair dryer. I don't use the battery anymore since it doesn't seem to be working. I heat up the power button, touchpad, and backside where the battery goes. After a while of heating I plug it in and it will start. Nothing else will WORK, and I'm wondering what the ISSUE is and whether a new power cord and/or battery would fix this issue or if it would NEED to be taken apart and repaired. It's a pretty old model so I'm thinking of just buying a new ONE soon, but for now a quick fix would be nice.
Any HELP would be appreciated, thanks!Sounds more like the system needs to be taken apart and cleaned properly.

I've decided to UPGRADE my computer slowly until I get it to where I want it to be.

I'm starting with the ram. Currently I have 1024mb of ram. Two sticks of 512 PC3200. I plan on upgrading to 2GB. Now my question is, should I keep it at PC3200 across the board for uniformity? Or would I be better off getting FASTER RAM for the upgrade? Also, should I got straight for one 1GB stick, or should I get two more 512s for total of 512 512 512 512.

Let me know if you need more information. Thanks folks.

AirekTravel to Crucial's site and enter your MBoard info to SEE if the higher speed is supported...if it isn't you will be spending more than you have to as a higher speed will default to the speed the board supports...
The second consideration would be matched pairs which can run faster. Keeping this in mind i would go with a matched set of 1G sticks for the best performance.

Cheap RAM is not worth it but you don't neccessarily have to break the bank. Shop around for price but buy a quality brand name.

patio.  8-)

p.s If it's a good enough deal i might GRAB your 2 512's....i'm rebuilding a machine for my brother.

Hi there
Just would like some help on a computer build I've been considering. I want to take a cheap PC and add a CPU, GPU and some extra Ram to it and then play CS:GO. I would like to play it at a quality similar (or above!) console standard!

Here are the links to the parts I have looked at
MAIN Computer
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dell-OptiPlex-380-Desktop-PC-Intel-Core-2-Duo-E7500-2-93GHz-2-0GB-DDR3-FREE-P-P-/291723934212?hash=item43ec19fa04:g:-EcAAOSwzvlW9B1E

Intel Xeon
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INTEL-XEON-X5460-QUAD-CORE-PROCESSOR-3-16GHZ-12M-1333-SLANP-SOCKET-LGA771-/172134260926?hash=item28140060be:g:icYAAOSwYIhWlBPY

GPU
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASUS-Nvidia-GeForce-GT-630-2GB-Graphics-Card-GPU-/322041220944?hash=item4afb270f50:g:qEYAAOSwoudW6DRq

Ram (could I buy multiple to enhance gaming?)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1GB-1x1GB-DDR2-533-PC2-4200-Memory-RAM-Upgrade-HP-Compaq-Gaming-Series-Desktop-/231509615260?hash=item35e70c629c:m:mZLZZptSRUzxGhEpm_OiXuwI would advise against those parts.  The machine is a small form factor desktop design which isn't big ENOUGH to fit any REASONABLE video card (including the one you linked).  The CPU is ALSO not compatible with the motherboard without using some sort of dodgy 775 to 771 socket adapter and even then it's down to luck if the BIOS will support it.  The machine you linked uses DDR3 memory so the DDR2 memory you linked also won't work.

At the very least you'd be best looking at regular desktop tower systems with something like a Core 2 Quad included then upgrade the graphics card accordingly.  I would however STRONGLY recommend saving for something better rather than pumping money into an already old computer.  CS:GO is already pretty old so you won't need much, even modern integrated graphics would be enough.  You could buy/build something using integrated graphics for now and then upgrade it with a decent video card later on.

I'm currently RUNNING an 80 gig, 7200 RPM Seagate HDD through the IDE Parrallel plug. I'd like to up grade to a bigger main HDD and use the 80 gig as a backup and storage for little used files. Question- My motherboard supports IDE and SATA. Is it possible to run one HDD from the IDE plug and another from the SATA plug, or should both be run from the same type plugs. The reason is, I've heard SATA gives better performance.

Motherboard--eVGA nForce3 250 Chipset SATA Raid AGP8X
CPU--Athlon 64 2800 w/HTT 754 pin
RAM--1024MB-400MHz DDRI believe you can definitely do that.  But, if you want further confirmation, you might post here: http://www.evga.com/community/messageboard/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=26The SATA will give you quicker response times.
You can use the manuf. utilities that ship with the HDD to clone your system as is which is quicker than re-installing everything.
You will need to load the SATA DRIVERS first then do the clone.
On most machines the SATA then becomes the primary boot drive and you can then use your IDE drives for storage.
Check your MBoard DOCS as you can also usually change this boot priority if you have the need to have say a dual-boot setup...

patio.   8-)Exellent. Thank you very much for the INFO. I'll be trying it as soon as purchase my new HDD.You're more than Welcome...stop by anytime.

My friend Soltek PC, 256 MB, 2 GHZ, P4 .
SOMETIME it can boot, sometime fail booting.
When it can boot free RAM avaiable is only ab 30 MB.

Now cant boot at all ask for boot disk. but we didnt copy n not hv that.

What can b the most probably problem. Bad memory or not enough RAM.
 When booting the monitor trying hard but at last it becomes blank---monitor.

Any idea please, all my Friends in this forum.

ThanksSounds like a power supply issue most likely, but you didn't mention the make or WATTAGE of that, operating system, motherboard, age of machine, etc. so there is little else to work with.Not much to go on there.  I would like to KNOW the wattage of the power supply, how OLD is the machine?  I would first say that it could be the power supply, also could be a memory issue.

Greetings,

AS some of you MAY know, ive put together or have been putting together an older Retro machine. its together and parts are listed below.

Abit Bx6 Motherboard (i think first Rev)
512mb (2x 256MB) high profile ECC RAM
500Mhz Celeron Slocket CPU
Nvidia Geforce 2mx400, GPU 64MB AGP
DVD-RW IDE drive

I didnt mention a hard drive because im rather having issues with the drive. First i tried a 40GB WD which had both 98SE and 2000 SP4 dual boot that i had running on my Asus P2-99. With this Hard drive, the BIOS wouldnt pass Post. Just froze there.

 I tried a nice Fujitsu 3.2Gb which booted windows 98SE but i wanted a fresh install. I loaded up FDISK and deleted the partition and even when selecting max size and FAT32 the drive now shows as 2014mb instead of what it is a 3200mb Drive. I booted from XP and 2000 CD just to see the same thing. The jumper is set to master.

Is this Drive dying or whats going on? Thats the max size FAT 32 recognises...ok, but i never select FAT32. I select maximum disk size and it shows 2gb. I also tried the XP disk that has NTFS and yet im only getting 2gb as well..FAT32 is max 4gb. im under. What are your jumpers set to on the drive? If your using CS jumper on a cable intended for MA/SL you can run into BIOS Post Drive issues. Make sure if your using a Cable Select type cable that both drives are set to CS for Cable Select. Otherwise if its a standard IDE cable set one drive to master and other to slave.i selected Master on the drive. But clearly it seemed like the hard drive was having issues. Now ive tried a DIFFERENT issue. I tired a working 6.4Gb Fujitsu drive. Ive tested it in OSX Disk utility and windows and it passed. Yet ive got it set to master and the machine will post but sit after the option to enter setup and mem test is over. i unplugged the ODD and HDD and it passed. then plugged it back in and it worked then the HDD and it didnt. I know the HDD is sent correctly to master, using IDE 1 and i tried another IDE cable. What am i missing?  The BIOS of an older computer will not work right with a large drive. And even with a small  drive it may not work until it has been formatted on the target machine. You should try an old drive with about 800 MB. That is Megabyte, not Gigabyte.

Reference:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_hard_disk_drives
Notice that in the mid 1990S a single platter seldom had 100 Megabytes. Gigabyte drives were used only on large commercial systems. The PC did not handle large drives well due to older BIOS design.

From Microsoft archives:
A typical upgrade from Windows 95 requires approximately 195 MB of free hard disk space, but the hard disk space may range from between 120 MB and 295 MB, depending on your computer configuration and the OPTIONS that you choose to install.

Requirements  to upgrade to windows 98.


The Motherboard BIOS will hang if the HDD is larger than around 32GB. This was the typical maximum H.D.D size without overlay software at around that time. A BIOS update may allow ACCESSING larger drives.

Quote

I tried a nice Fujitsu 3.2Gb

> *******************************
> Dear Valued Customer,
> largest HD the BX6 will support is 75GB.
> http://fae.abit.com.tw/eng/faq/generic/check75gb.htm
> Thank you for choosing ABIT.
>
> Regards
> Abit Technical
> *****************************

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/147495-30-abit-hard-drive-size-limitation

This suggests 75GB... Link dead since abit has been gone for many years.

Hi, everyone

I have a 500gb internal HDD which I have wiped using DBAN to use with a Dynamode enclosure connected via USB as back up
and storage.

I connected it up but the drive doesn't appear in My Computer (using Windows 7) as I'm no expert what have I done or not done that might solve the problem, please?

GRATEFUL for any advice.Go to Disk Management and FORMAT the drive.Guessing this is a SATA drive and not an IDE based on size, but if its an IDE drive you need to set the jumper for the case. Usually its set to CS for Cable Select although some are set to M or MA for Master.Hi, folks

Thanks for the help and advice.  Have MANAGED to format the drive using disk management which wasn't ENTIRELY straghtforward
but the drive is noe up and running and I have backed up my files successfully.

Thnaks again.Glad to hear and thanks for letting us know.

I recently set up a USER account for my wife simply by going to control panel, then user accounts using windows xp pro.  I listed her as administrator also.  However, when I am logged off and she is logged on, the COMPUTER will not recognize the dvd drive or cd drive.  Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Find them in Device Manager using her account. Right click both of them and select "Remove".

Re-boot into her account and Windows should automatically re-install them.

If this doesn't work you'll have to sniff around in GROUP Policy settings under your account and MAKE sure they are enabled for her account...Thank you very much.  The uninstall/reboot did the trick.  I really appreciate it and so does the missus.You're more than Welcome...STOP by anytime.

patio.  8-)

I just installed a new video card and now my screen rolls down instead of SCROLLING down smoothly.

Can anyone help??? seanix.... Quote

my screen rolls down instead of scrolling down smoothly.

I need help with my USB swing drive that I recieved on Easter about a year AGO.  It used to load fine with out any problems, and it is a plug and play.  Normally I was able to plug it in and the light would FLASH and then it would load and the light on it would go off.  But now the light comes on and stays on and it will not load no matter what USB port on my computer I use.  It it not the port the port works fine.  I am using Windows XP with an SP2.  Any other information be glad to ask...I am in a REALLY bad situation without this THING...it is my little baby .Try it on another computer.

I tried boot my computer in my sound studio for the first time in a month and I get. The computer runs. The lights come on, the hard drive spins and the CD trays operate ( open and close) so I know it's not a PSU. I'm not receiving any thing on my monitor so I thougth that was the problem so I switched monitors; still nothing. No error messages or no signal notices. I next tried another video CARD; still nothing. Can anyone suggest something else I can try?Will it boot to safemode ? ?
How old is the HDD ? ?I tried Safe Mode but nothing is showing on the monitor which is puzzling. I'm going to try slaving the hard drive to another computer.If the screen is blank and everything else seems to be booting normally and you've ruled out the display itself and the display adapter, I'd check the connections between the computer and the display and try changing the cables. First thing I did was try another monitor. Then, I switched from the on-board video card to a PCI video card. Still nothing. I should be getting something on the monitor.!st do you have an XP CD ? ?...2nd do you get any display at boot-up/BIOS screen ? ?


If you have any bootable media then try that 1st to see what happens...

P.S....it's KINDA cool we may get to help you for once...for all the Helps you have contributed...
Do you get hard drive activity that shows that it's actually booting?  Is there a POST speaker connected?Dave, per my post above the first thing I'd check is the cables. Quote

!st do you have an XP CD ? ?...2nd do you get any display at boot-up/BIOS screen ? ?

Do you get hard drive activity that shows that it's actually booting?  Is there a POST speaker connected?

Dave, per my post above the first thing I'd check is the cables.

Yes I have an XP disk. I get nothing on the screen when booting.

after listening to many peoples advices, i finally BUILT my PC and it works great.


now i decided to GO from 1gig to 4(4x 1gb cards) gig(yeah i dont really need it but i did it anyways)

so here lies the problem. i windows wont boot up(it will be stuck on loadings screen) whenever i have 4 gigs in it. with 3gigs it works fine but with the 4th, it just gets stuck during windows screen.

i TRIED booting up the computer with each individual card to test and make sure that all the ram cards are working and it works fine.

do you guys have any ideas on why my computer wont boot with 4 gigs of ram?

this is my ram card x4
http://...newegg.com/...t/product.asp?item=N82E16820227123

this is my mobo
http://...newegg.com/...t/product.asp?item=N82E16813131142

this is my cpu
http://...newegg.com/...t/product.asp?item=N82E16819115004

i should also mention that i havent messed with the bios(i only INSERTED the ram into the mobo).

please HELP (i am on my laptop)Does it matter what chip is in what slot? I would start by checking the chips individually with the free diagnostic at www.memtest86.com

If it's any consolation, that 4th gig of RAM will probably never be used by Windows anyway.

Hey everyone.

I seem to be having trouble with my hardrive playing up and my windows xp becoming unstable. I have gone through a couple of HD's (both Fujitsu) both seems
to be fine before i install a broadband modem/internet with a self installation cd.

the only thing that I can think of is i havent inserted the ethernet CABLE before the self install PROGRAM begins looking for it.... could this be the CAUSE of the blue screen of death?

the modem is a SIEMENS speedstream 4200.
This modem has been installed before on the computer.

I have a Western Digital 250 gig hard drive, a Dell Demension 3000 pc.  No O/S loaded at this time.
A 2.8 ghz P4 proscesser, 512 megs of RAM.   The pc is refurbished as well.     It came with everything but a hard drive.  I purchased Above hard drive for it.  I installed the drive.  it shows in Bios, but the system hangs up when I reboot.  it steys on the Dell logo and drive is getting power but will not spin at all.    is there something I can do here?     Thanks....      Rick....Take the drive back if it's under warranty.

Alan <><  Did you run the WD tools on that drive to prepare it for use i.e. format etc. ? ?
New drives have to be formatted and set as active for them to have an OS installed on them.
You should have recieved a CD with that drive from WD that is bootable and contains everything you need...

If this is not the case they can be DLoaded from WD's SITE.

patio.   8-)Thanks.   I downloaded the WD diagnostic software off the site.  Tryed to load it on my cd drive where I loaded it.  but now when I boot up the Dell Pc I get multiple beep codes.   drive was installed as well.     I have no idea what this is.  Maybe I should take up another hobby.     Help....How many drives are in the machine? How are they jumpered?There is only a cdrw drive, no floopy drive there. and bios shows floopy not installed.   no second hard drive either. Quote

How many drives are in the machine? How are they jumpered?

I finally upgraded my memory. The problem was I was trying to put a 512mb next to a 256. I didn't realize they had to be the same. :-?
Now I want to upgrade/add a video card. I know I need the AGP version and did buy that. But I need to know if I now have on board video.
I will say my computer's manual says "Integrated Real256 2D/3D graphics w/ up to 64mb SHARED memory. Available 4X AGP slot for graphics upgrades"

I am new at this. Can't afford a new PC so upgrading mine. Thank you in advance!Onboard video is INTEGRATED into the motherboard itself as opposed to a card that is added in. How's that? If you get an AGP card it will use that, not the INTEGRATED video the machine came with. Quote

Onboard video is INTEGRATED into the motherboard itself as opposed to a card that is added in. How's that? If you get an AGP card it will use that, not the INTEGRATED video the machine came with.

In the past mounth or so my laptop has taken a turn for the worst. I still havn't been able to trace it back to what started it running like crap. When I first got it it ran very WELL would run all programs quickly and even ran somewhat demanding games with no problem. now even the startup of windows takes anywere from 5 or more solid min. I've done everything I know how such as Virus/Spywear scans and other programs such as Advanced WindowsCare. The computer still runs poorly. I am a college student and do need my laptop to run smoothly. If anyone has any advice of other things to do or even if you THINK I wight have tried it post it anyway just to make sure.


      My laptop is an HP L2000 running Windows XP with an AMD Turion64 w/ 1GB of Ram.  What are you running for malware protection? Have you run the scans in Safe Mode with System Restore turned off? Also the online scanner at www.trendmicro.com would be a good idea.

What is the make and model? How much free hard drive space? Have you done a recent Disk Cleanup and Disk Defrag?thank you for the advice. I did recently run Disk cleanup and Disk defrag, also while I was waiting for a reply I ran ScanDisk on my main drive and it FROZE up at step 4 of 5. Does this mean the problem is worse?I cant help with the scandisk problem, but i can suggest a clean up of the registry as well as disabling any un needed system services through the control panel>admin>services. this stops unecessary start bootupsI would run the free diagnostics that you can download from the appropriate hard drive maker's site to test the drive for fitness. Do not play in the registry or do any software FIXES until you are sure the hardware is fuunctional.

Hi everyone,

I want to purchase desktop computer. I prefer to go with assembed computers as it will be cheaper.
Can anyone guide me with configuration(Processor, motherboard, ram, cachememory etc..), i am LOOKING for 32 gb memory as i need to pratice vmware on it.
What is your budget ? ?550 USDWith that budget  you MIGHT look at:
HP Pavilion Desktop - 550-110.
But give up on 32GB or RAM. 16GB shooed be enough.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on March 29, 2016, 10:15:20 PM

With that budget  you might look at:
HP Pavilion Desktop - 550-110.
But give up on 32GB or RAM. 16GB shooed be enough.

Is there anyway with sata hard drives that you can run a master and slave abd be able to dual boot into them with two seperate desk tops like you can with eide hard drives?SATA doesn't use (or need) a master/slave configuration. You can certainly dual boot if you want to with SATA drives - just install the older OS first to make things easier on yourself.I can dual boot yes but one hard drive has win 7 and the other win 7.I supposed I can do c lone from one hard drive to the other if someone can walk me through it.Ive never done a clone or mirror image.Buying a $50 drive duplicator is the best / easiest method of cloning a drive of same size or cloning a smaller drive to a larger drive. *Biggest concern with a drive duplicator is to make sure you have the drives placed into the correct A & B slots so that your not cloning a empty drive overtop of a drive with the system build to it as for drive duplicators perform a bit for bit replication and so it has no problem erasing an important hard drive with the empty one that is full of many 0's and very few 1's and ruin your day.

Windows 7 has a FREE backup image feature, but I havent used it from one drive to another for internal drives yet direct such as if its even possible to split the 2nd drive into 2 partitions and create an image to one partition and then pass that image to another partition on the same drive with this utility. It might not be possible, but I havent tried that. The problem is that the 2nd drive is probably the one that you want to have an exact copy of windows 7 running on and it would just put the image file on this drive. A 3rd drive is likely needed to perform the Windows backup image thats built into 7. I use an external hard drive through USB that is larger than the CAPACITY of the drive to be imaged. I make sure no other data is on this external and then I go through the process. In the end you have an image of Windows 7 on an external drive. You also need to create a bootable Windows 7 repair disc. As for you boot off of the Windows 7 repair disc and then you perform the restore through that pointed at the external which then pushes the image to the internal. You dont want to have both internal drives installed through this process as for having one drive installed only makes it easier to not wipe out the original drive with what could be a bad image if there were any problems with its creation.

If you want to duplicate one drive to another internally without use of a 3rd drive, you could use an image utility like Ghost or Macrium or another clone utility. Not sure if any of the free or trial editions still allow you to clone or not. Biggest thing to pay attention to through the process is to keep track of the Source Drive and Destination Drive. If you get them backwards with some image utilities it will copy an empty hard drive overtop of a drive with the data, wiping out your build!!! 

Macrium Reflect is a good Free choice as Dave mentioned...another one also is Easus TODO...also has a Free version.

Not sure why you wanna clone 1 Win7 HDD to another Win7 HDD...a bit unclear on that.

Also need to MENTION...as to the Master/Slave designation re: SATA HDD's on some older boards for that to work master should be in SATA slot 0 or 1 on the MBoard and for slave SATA 3 or higher.The reason why I want to clone one hard drive to another is one of computers mother boards failed.So installed it into another computer that already had a legal copy of 64 bit Win 7.
The 2 hard drives are of different sizes,1 is a 200gb and the other is a 1tb.
So both hard drives are installed in the same computer and what I will do is boot into the hard drive and go into user files to access my data.So cloning the data on that drive to the 200gb is what I want to do.The 1 tb drive also has a legal copy of win 7 on it.
If I lose my os on the 1tb I have no other product key
As far as making a back up disk of the 1st hard drive for some reason I CANT burn the image onto a disk using a dvd-rw.Not neccessary...all you have to do to retrieve all your data from the PC with failed board is connect that HDD as a slave to a working PC...All your data will be there.

Windows does NOT have to be able to run on the failed MBoard HDD to get your data.Failed mother board has been trashed already.The drives was in a Dell 760 machine that I had upgraded.That's irrelevant...re-read above Post...

I have a small Simpletech NAS on my network for 8 year, worked great. Took a power spike and it died. I tested the power supply but it seemed GOOD. Figured I fried the NAS system board. No LONGER available. I removed the Hard drive and tried to connect directly to my computer using a USB connection, when I plugged it in it asked if I wanted to put a MBR on it. I meant to click no, clicked yes.  I still could not read data. I ordered a power supply and found out that it was not the system board but the power supply. Put the drive back in the NAS and now I cannot read it. I need to find out how to undo what I have done with the MBR. I did not format the drive. Can someone help me put it back to the ORIGINAL state? Or point me to a doc our utility. I hate to have to pay someone to recover it for me. See Here...


Note: If making a backup of the current HDD is possible i would do so...

HP Pavilion a4316f-b, when turned on freezes at the HP splash screen.  Pressing any of the function keys doesn't do anything.  I tried swapping RAM (3 x 2 GB) and no changes.  If all RAM is pulled out the MB beeps like it is SUPPOSED to if no RAM is present.  I UNPLUGGED the hard drive and then it will go PAST the HP splash screen and tell me no bootable media is found.  I have tried 3 additional hard drives, all with the same results, if they are plugged in, the computer freezes at the HP splash screen.  I even tried a different SATA cable from the motherboard to hard drive and tried different SATA ports on the motherboard.  Since it is the same results for a total of 4 hard drives, I'm guessing it is an issue with the motherboard or is there something else I should be checking?  Any help is appreciated.
Are you positive it's the correct new RAM ? ?

In regards to the HDD's you are swapping...you cant take a Win HDD from 1 PC to another without issues like what you are seeing...

Where is the original HDD ? ?...and what's installed on it ? ?The are 3 ram chips. I have pulled them out and tried ONE at a time and in different slots, no change. The original hard drive has Windows 7 64 bit on it. The 3 other hard drives are brand new. When any of the 4 hard drives are hooked up it freezes at the hp flash screenWhat has changed since it worked properly ? ?
Are you saying the original HDD when connected produces the same results ? ?Nothing CHAD changed in it. Yes same results with the original hard drive. I originally thought it was the hard drive, that is why I started changing them outAre you able to enter the CMOS setup utility?

If I remember correctly, it is entered by pressing F1 during boot.

Many systems have a setting referred to as "Quiet Boot" or "Logo Boot" which basically shows a logo during startup. If you can find and disable that, it may help identify the problem as it will boot up with a text display that shows more clearly what it is doing while booting that could help determine where things are going wrong.I can enter CMOS if no hard drive is plugged in.  If a hard drive is plugged in, it is froze at the HP splash screen.Try replacing the HDD cable itself...Patio, I already tried that. I also unplugged the SATA cable that went to the dvd drive and tried the hard drive in all 4 SATA ports on the motherboard, no changes.Sounds like the board has gone South...

What does it do with a bootable CD/DVD ? ?if no hard drive is plugged in, a bootable cd works part of the time, the other part it just says no bootable media foundThen i suspect the HDD controller...any Yellow !!'s in Device Manager ? ?

So, I'm thinking about upgrading my computer fan because I think the CURRENT ONE is not strong enough to cool my computer. I've come to this conclusion due to the fact that part of the casing gets VERY hot at times.

I think that the lack of cooling has lead to the death of one of my hard drives (and the start of death for the new hard drive -- I can hear clicking noises and there are interruptions in performance). But I'm not really sure about what fan to go with. I've heard about using a coolermaster fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099 but I'm a complete beginner with hardware and don't EVEN know whether or not it'll work with my computer. And is there a way I can figure out whether it will fit or not without opening up the case? Also, do I need to get any other new parts to accompany this fan?Replacing your CPU cooler will not reduce the temperature of the outside of your case.  What do you have in terms of ACTUAL case fans?  That said, just because the case is warm to the touch doesn't mean there is anything wrong. Quote from: camerongray on March 30, 2016, 01:56:46 PM

Replacing your CPU cooler will not reduce the temperature of the outside of your case.  What do you have in terms of actual case fans?  That said, just because the case is warm to the touch doesn't mean there is anything wrong.

That would be according to the component specs ...of which we have no knowledge of so far.