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Hi there! My question is: How can I "lock down" the IP addy for the DNS service I'd like to use on a Mint19 system? It uses the new systemd. I haven't "learned" this new-fangled systemd stuff.

As it stands now, when I open /etc/resolv.conf I find "127.0.0.53 .
I change that to 208.67.222.222. Then run a dig command and it says my resolver is 208.67.222.222.

When I disconnect from the network and reconnect, I find my manually configured DNS IP is back to 127.0.0.53 . I run another dig command and sure enough, my resolver is back to 127.0.0.53. I look in /etc/resolv.config and, of course it shows the 127.0.0.53 addy as well.

Thanks in advance,
AndyYour system is normal. Why do you need more information?
What is still in use in North America is the system called "IPv4" which means Internet Protocol version four.

If you really need to know, here it is:
Everything you need to know about IPv4 and its configurations!
Quote

This course is over 6 hours in length and will cover all aspects of IPv4

hi i m having issue with my computer the earphone are not work for me when i plug them in the laptop im sure the issue can not be with the earphones since have try it multiple time in the i-pod and it seem to worked fine is there anything i cud do to resolved the problem thank u for the helpthe earphones is white colored and im plugging it in round port is this the right oneBuy earphones made for the PC.
The Apple computers and tings use a plug that has two rings. That is because the Apple design includes the microphone.hi yes i have window 10 computer have been use the white apple earphones for a while it always seem to work ok however couple month back i re-imaged my laptop. the issue seem to be that if i plugged in the earphones right after booting the sound came from the earphones then afterward if i take it out of the port then plug it back in the sound comes from the speakers only and not the earphones not sure if its a BUG or something but i noticed in order for me to hear from the earphones again i must power down then re-start computer and plug in the earphone again. this issue did not happened prior to re-installation of windows. do u suspect is the issue with my laptop or cud be the apple earphone?How the sound system works is not documented in a way that the average person would understand it. They do that on purpose. On many modern computers the headphone switch is not mechanical. Instead, the system can 'sense' that hat you lugged in the headphones. Microsoft may have altered the threshold of that thing so that it does not always work.

But the question is: How much time do your want to send on this?You found a 'workaround. for it.

For what it is worth, here is a 'trick' you can try. Make  a new user account, if you only have one now. Then logoff one user and log in to the other. That might make Windows test the headphone jack again to see if the new user likes headphones.

Yeah, I know, it seems to be  not logical.   
Logging off a user is FASTER than doing a power off and on again.
thank u will try the trick u have suggest me to and make a new user account. i only have one now(i am administrator on the computer) so will create a SECOND account. powering off and then on gets the sound to come back from the earphones(once i put it in the headphone jack) however if i take it out the sound come from speakers(which it should) but if i re-plug it back in the jack it STILL comes from speakers only PERHAPS it only recognize it the first time its in there? will create a new user account and let u know what happens appreciate ur help

My wifi box is on and WORKING as I have it conncected to my phone, but it won’t show the OPTION to connect it to my laptop. It was working a few days ago but now will not connect. Also the options that are available on my laptop are there on my phone. Tried a few things but nothing will work. It's difficult to tell from your post exactly what your laptop sees. Let's start with the basics - what OPERATING system are you running and what is the make & MODEL of your laptop?

Hello ,

I'm a very young student that is learning and reading stuff about networking. It's a bit hard for me because I'm learning english lang too. Sry for bad english

I'm interested in vLan configuration.

from a tutorial I can read:
<<
Untagged: a VLAN that is untagged is also sometimes referred to as the "Native VLAN".  Any traffic that is sent from a host to a switch port that doesn't have a VLAN ID specified, will be assigned to the untagged VLAN.

This option is TYPICALLY used when connecting hosts such as workstations or devices like IP cameras that don't tag their own traffic, and only need to communicate on one specific VLAN.  A port can only have one Untagged VLAN configured at a time.>>

How Does vLan work if there is no TAG ?

<<
Tagged: Assigning a tagged VLAN to a port adds that port to the VLAN, but all ingress and egress traffic must be tagged with the VLAN ID in order to be forwarded. The host connected to the switch port must be capable of tagging its own traffic, and be configured to do so with the same VLAN ID.
>>

How Does the Host (my computer) add TAG in order to talk to vLan ?

Thanks so much for any help



 While you can configure your machine to tag traffic with a VLAN ID (there's usually an option somewhere in your OS's network settings) often you won't configure anything vlan related on your machine and will configure vlans on the switch.  If a port on a switch is configured as "untagged" any packet passing into that port (where the traffic doesn't have a vlan tag) will have the vlan tag ADDED to it. When the traffic leaves an untagged port, the vlan ID will be removed. In this case you're pretty much just using VLANs to divide a single switch into multiple separate switches.

With tagged ports, they won't CHANGE the VLAN tags on packets entering or leaving the ports, however they will only permit traffic which has a VLAN tag that the port is tagged with. You would use a tagged port to carry traffic which is already tagged such as when connecting devices which already tag their traffic or when connecting switches together in order to carry multiple VLANs between switches. You can also get other types of devices that produce tagged traffic such as VoIP phones (which can tag their traffic to differentiate it from traffic from a connected PC, see below) or from a WIRELESS access point which may broadcast multiple different networks on different VLANs. You would configure the VLANs that the device should tag traffic with in the settings on the device itself.

To give a rough example of how these may work together.  Say you're in an office with a pair of switches which should be connected together to act as one big switch.  You have two VLANs - VLAN 100 is for "office PCs" and VLAN 200 is for "voip phones" in order to keep VoIP traffic separate from PC traffic.  Quite often with VoIP phones, in order to save ports on the switch, you can plug the phone into the switch and then plug your PC into the phone. In this sort of environment, the phone will tag its own traffic with a VLAN ID (200 in this example) and pass traffic from the PC without modifying it (so it won't have a vlan ID). You would then configure the switch port that the phone (and therefore the PC) is connected to to be untagged for VLAN 100 and tagged for VLAN 200. This MEANS that the traffic originating from the PC (which doesn't have a vlan tag, i.e. it's untagged) will be tagged with VLAN 100, traffic from the phone (which will already be tagged with VLAN 200) will be allowed to pass. If the port wasn't tagged with VLAN 200, the traffic from the phone wouldn't be allowed to pass and would be dropped. Then, the ports that link the two switches together would be set up as tagged for all VLANs on both switches so that traffic for all VLANs will be carried between the switches, this is often known as a "trunk" port.

What you would then often do is configure a port to be "tagged" for all VLANs and connect this to the router.  The router would then be configured so that each VLAN would show up as a separate network interface on the router.  The router can then be configured to route between VLANs and to firewall traffic from each VLAN as appropriate.access links are presented to any device without tags. when traffic leaves that vlan going into the switch for a destination not on the same vlan it gets a tag of the vlan added to each frame, to allow the switch to forward it correctly. When you speak of a native vlan, it is the common vlan that two devices agree to send non tag packets. the default vlan on cisco switches is vlan 1. Devices need a common untag network to communicate on. Tags are for forwarding purposes. They provide no value within a vlan.

hello
i have
2  Pc
1 Hub
1 router
1 firewall ( XG125 sophos )
1 static Ip
so i want to know how i can make both pc can work with the same ip and same port to have ability to access on them via (RDP out side of my network )"online"
which mean by only one ip+port can access to pc No:1 but also have ability to some how close the port of pc1 and open for the pc2

**Note**
i can do this without the firewall as my router have ability to close and open the physical port so all what i do is connect the router online and change the port status.

so i need to know how to do that with the firewall sophos XG125 and if there no option in xg125 like this then what is the alternative solution
Quote

this then what is the alternative solution

I presume you have a single public IP address and are then doing NAT/port forwarding to your machines on your local network.  In that case you would configure your port forward have a pair of diffferent ports for RDP, one of these ports should be forwarded to one machine, the other port should be forwarded to the other machine.  You would then connect to the appropriate port depending on what machine you want to connect to.

However, exposing RDP to the internet is a pretty bad idea, I wouldn't regard it as secure enough to be completely exposed.  At the very least you should configure you firewall to only allow a whitelist of IPs to connect to it however the better option would be to configure some sort of VPN server on your local network and then connect in to that if you need to access devices behind your firewall, this also eliminates the issue with having a single public IP address as you'd connect to the VPN and then access the RDP systems using their local IPs.

I'm struggling to work out why you need to share some sort of IP between them, what's the reason that users can't just connect to the correct machine at a given time, who are these end users?  We're going to need more information around the background to this setup.  Windows server (I presume you're running Windows server and not a desktop variant)  has options for remote desktop high availability but you run the risk of overcomplicating the setup it if it's not something that's actually required.  You're also talking about SQL, where does that come into this?  Are these replicated database servers that you want failover between?

Maybe the OP will respond and explain his need.

For what it is worth...
Some time ago the Internet went from the use of a four byte IP address to the use of a six byte format. I am still not sure why this was done. Many web servers already had in place a way to separate different computers and customers in a complex wide area network. And I never understood how that worked. It was possible, somehow, to identify everything on the whole wide world. It blows my mind.There must more than a trillion things on the world wide network. 

I currently have 1 network at home and I want to create a second network so I can teach myself some networking.

I want to use the same internet connection that network 1 is on and access my primary computer to access files etc on my second network.

My question is; should I connect my network 2 router to my network 1 router or do it via a switch?  Or should i create a Vlan and allow my primary computer port on the switch  to connect to both of them. Or is that not possible?
First step I would say is learning how to make your computer connect to internet and share files with other computers by setting up static IP Addresses and DNS information. So if your network at home is say 192.168.1.1 - 192.168.1.254 and router always gives out DHCP leases below the last value of .100 then you can safely set the computers to say 192.168.1.200 and 192.168.1.201 and learn how to create network shares and gateway connection to internet through router and  set up the DNS connection to go to a specific DNS server from your ISP or another out there such as Google or Open DNS etc.

You should do reading on Networking though to learn how its all works and read up and understand the OSI Model. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OSI_modelThis approach is essentially an extension of the technique described in the Setting up File and Printer sharing between two routers Problem SOLVER and has the same effect of blocking file and printer sharing traffic entering the WAN side of each router. The difference in this setup is that we've separated clients into two GROUPS, each behind its own firewall that blocks any data not REQUESTED by a client behind the firewall trying to come into the WAN side of its router.

File and Printer sharing doesn't work between the two groups because although data passes through the originating computer's firewall just fine, it's blocked from entering the firewall of the computer in the other group. However, all clients can freely connect to the Internet as long as they initiate the data request, even through the request has to pass through two firewalls to get there.

Hello

If 2 users in the same building (home not office) share the same wireless connection (same provider, same security/wi-fi key), can either of those users see the online activity of the other one?

ThanksThe simple answer is NO.

The long answer depends on what security measures are in place.  Normally only input and OUTPUT for a named used only goes to that user. In fact, you have to work at it to see what others are doing, UNLESS have full administrative authority.

Otherwise, one user One can peek in on others by a deliberate violation of security.

Is this for a business?  Is this to monitor you CHILDREN's activity?
It's not particularly easy but there's definitely tricks that someone could do in order to intercept traffic from other users. Higher end enterprise systems tend to support client isolation features to avoid this but they aren't always enabled and generally aren't supposed by consumer networking equipment.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 29, 2018, 01:07:11 PM

Normally only input and output for a named used only goes to that user.

Maybe Better If You Don’t Read This Story on Public WiFi
We took a hacker to a café and, in 20 minutes, he knew where everyone else was born, what schools they attended, and the last five things they googled.

Hello! So, these days I restarted my laptop and since it turned back on, the options of network don't appear anymore. I've tried troubleshooting, as WELL as connecting through cable on an internet modem, but none of it worked. Could anyone help? I don't know what's happening. And also, I can't enable the windows firewall defender for some reason, it all happened at the same time. Could it be virus or something...? Some things I connect on usb are not working as well, like my iphone charger... My phone doesn't appear on ITUNES or on pc when I connect it in. But this isn't the biggest problem, I'm just mentioning it in case it helps diagnosing it. :/ I'm sorry if this isn't the right topic to post my question on, but since the first problem is the network not connecting... I'm doing it in here. THANK you.Avoid IP Address Conflicts
If your computer and another on the network both have the same IP address, the conflict between them will PREVENT either from working properly online.

Action - To resolve an IP conflict, follow these instructions to RELEASE and renew your IP address. If your network uses static IP addresses, manually change your IP to a different number.

Check for Computer Firewall Malfunctions
Firewall software running on most computers is intended to prevent unwanted network traffic from disrupting its operation. Unfortunately, these software firewalls can malfunction and start blocking valid Internet traffic. When two software firewalls, such as Windows Firewall plus a third-party product, are installed on the same computer, contention between the two can also incorrectly block traffic.

Every hour or so web pages stop opening and i'm being told to 'check my connection'

If I go to my internet connection, click 'status' and then click 'diagnose' it runs and i'm connected again. Sometimes this happens every 20 minutes or so.....

Can anyone help?Have you trued disconnecting all power from your router for like a minute and then PLUGGING it back in? If so you could TRY resetting to factory defaults through the routers homepage.
Yeah, done that.

I'll give it another go though...........Possibly try resetting your computer's network setting and possibly re-installing drivers or updating them? This is quite strange. This has never happened to me before.
It's still the same, i have to reset the network adapter 2 -3 times an hour. It's infuriating. Then, I'm not sure how to help you. I guess you just might need to purchase a new router. If the router has been connected to the internet and worked in the past, confirm the signal from your internet service provider (ISP) is not the problem.

Turn off the WIRELESS function and directly connect your computer to the router with an Ethernet cable.
Reboot the computer and check for an internet connection.
If there is still no internet connection reboot the router and any modems in use.
You can also repeat this scenario with your computer directly connected to the modem instead of the router.
If you are still not getting an internet connection, contact your internet service provider.

Hi, I have my COMPUTER connected with 3 networks : smart wifi, LAN from mob (data SIM tethering), and voyager wifi.
I would like to know which network my computer (windows 10) takes priority to get me to the internet.
Performing a WhatismyIP can give you an idea of what IP your using and by looking at that info you can see what network is being used for internet access. https://www.whatismyip.com/   

When I RUN this website against my connection I get the following... which I ALTERED info on to hide my actual IP etc 
Quote

Your Public IPv6 is: 2601:18c:ffff:b8d7:ffff:94e3:780f:ffff
Your IPv4 is: 172.4.53.28
Your Local IP is: 192.168.1.14
Location: Hanover, NH US
ISP: Comcast Cable Communications LLC

• Install the OS
• Download / Install all necessary drivers
• Install an anti virus
• Download / Install all programs from scratch
• Adjust any/all settings for the OS as desired
• Create a disc image of the drive

You will have to reinstall the software / programs on the new system. Accordingly, I've always found it best to just start from scratch:

• Install the OS
• Download / Install all necessary drivers
• Install an anti virus
• Download / Install all programs from scratch
• Adjust any/all settings for the OS as desired
• Create a disc image of the drive

You will have to reinstall the software / programs on the new system. Accordingly, I've always found it best to just start from scratch:

• Install the OS
• Download / Install all necessary drivers
• Install an anti virus
• Download / Install all programs from scratch
• Adjust any/all settings for the OS as desired
• Create a disc image of the drive

Dear folks

NESS D8XD alarm system installed on a business for my friend and a technician who installed it he SAID he didn't change the alarm system default ip address.

http://nesscorporation.com/ness-security/ness-control-panels/home-security/k-6308.html

Default ip is 192.168.0.251 ,,,as per the advise of their National Customer Service Centre,,,I CALLED them and spoke with them

The confusing part I can ping this ip address (192.168.0.251) but it is neither in the list of the attached wired devices nor in the list of attached wireless devices (any way NESS is a wired box)

Snapshot below is for the attached wired devices :

https://imgur.com/a/GPvm98R

And the ping result is below :

Code: [Select]C:\WINDOWS\System32>ping 192.168.0.251
 
Pinging 192.168.0.251 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.0.251: bytes=32 time=6ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.0.251: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.0.251: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.0.251: bytes=32 time=4ms TTL=64
 
Ping statistics for 192.168.0.251:
    Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 2ms, Maximum = 6ms, Average = 3ms
 

Confusion how can I ping the ip address and it is not listed in my router table

Thanks
Often the list of devices SHOWN in your router is a list devices that the router has automatically given an IP address to over DHCP, if your alarm has had its IP address set statically then it may not SHOW in this list.  If you can ping the device, it'll still be connected to the network and should work normally. Quote

Often the list of devices shown in your router is a list devices that the router has automatically given an IP address to over DHCP, if your alarm has had its IP address set statically then it may not show in this list.  If you can ping the device, it'll still be connected to the network and should work normally.

Hi ladies and gentlemen.
I just moved into a new APARTMENT and got a router connected with high speed internet (whatever you call that, you know, the other box). It's not really high speed, just 50 Mbps.

So I've connected my LAPTOP and phone and it works or at least the connection is stable with a stable 50mbps speed. The problem is however, connecting the desktop PC wirelessly. I had an old network card I tried and it found the router but it shifted from having a level 3 strength down to nothing and no matter the strength, it just said 'Can't connect to this network'.

So I figured it was a problem with my old network card, as I saw online, it seems the latest driver for it was from 2013 and stuff, so I bought a USB connected one (just the cheapest one). It found the router with full strength and it connected (the other one connected once for a minute but never again). So I thought it was fixed. But now the signal strength is constant at level 3-4 and it seems to be connected to the router just fine....but just like every second website is loading....like it disconnects just momentarily and reconnects again. Still there's no change on the signal or anything.
I speedtested and I was getting a max around 40Mbps. I'm not looking for any AMAZING speed but just need a stable connection.

So my laptop has not had this problem and it seems to work fine anywhere in the apartment. However, I tried watching the local TV online, the direct broadcast or whatever, and it lagged. It played for 20 seconds, lagged for 5-6 seconds and continued constantly like this. The speedtest on the lap is still a constant around 50.

So I don't get it....any of it. I've called the internet provider 4 times and they can't see anything wrong. I don't know maybe it could be the other box, the high speed thing which is a different provider of course. But the router is there, it connects, my lap shows full strength, websites load etc but had a problem with that stream on the local TV station site. Then my desktop is just all around the place. Seems to be better with that new network card but I'm trying to diagnose what the main culprit is.

Hope this makes any sense, networking isn't my specialty really. But I'm desperate.....you know, home is where the internet is and all that.

Thank you, any ideas are welcome.
Regards, STDo you have an ETHERNET jack on your laptop? If so, try connecting to the router with that and try testing it out. This is obviously not a long term solution, but just try it with troubleshooting. It is most likely the laptop. On your other devices, try doing the same things that you did on your laptop and see if the problem persists. If you don't have any other devices you can use for this test that connect to the router wirelessly, then maybe borrow a friends.

If the other device connects fine and can watch local TV without interruption, it is your computer or your USB wireless adapter. (Cheap ones don't always work well, and if it is small and flat, you probably won't get very good performance out of it.)

If the other device has connection issues similar to what your laptop is going through, it is your router.

Hope you figure something out!
Anthonyyep. I found my long cable and connected directly and everything works. So it's definitely the Wireless Adapter I suppose or the computer is in a bad location for getting a signal. The computer is actually behind my three monitors I don't know if that's blocking the signal at all or has any say in it. There's also a small wall between the computer and the router. It still says the signal is good so I don't know what's up. I guess I'll just have to purchase a stronger adapter.

Thanks for the reply.No problem! Like I said, if the adapter is a small one that only pokes out of the USB port by like half a centimeter, then it it most likely the case. You should get one that has a visible antenna.

My PC was working fine last night, went to use it this morning and there was no internet.  I have it connected to a network switch, which is connected directly to my router (router is on the opposite side of the house).  I've tried resetting the router, POWERING off and restarting the network switch, and restarting my PC but I'm still having the issue.  After a restart it will have internet connectivity for a few minutes, then it drops.  I contacted my ISP and they CONFIRMED there is nothing wrong on their end and ran a few tests.  Wifi works fine on wireless devices, and my TV, which is connected to the same network switch has no PROBLEM running Netflix, Hulu, etc.

The ISP rep SAID there was a Windows update that rolled out last night and that I wasn't the first to complain of this issue, so they think it's related to the update.  I tried running Windows Update and it showed there were updates available but was painfully SLOW in downloading and installing them.  I left it running as it stated it was installing, so I'm hoping everything is fine when I get home from work, but if not, what are the next steps? 

My network adapter is integrated with my mobo, so if it's bad, I suppose I could install a stand-alone one into one of my empty slots.  The other thing I thought is the cable I have the PC connected to the switch with could be bad, but when I connected it to one of my laptops it worked fine.  Since it was working fine last night I'm assuming (and hoping) its just this update causing the problem, but figured I would check here to be safe...Hi

Try rolling back the network driver especially if it was recently updated.

How to do this is explained here  https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-roll-back-a-driver-in-windows-2619217

There is also the option of using system restore to take the computer back a few days.

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-system-restore-windows-10

If it isn't turned on you won't be able to restore , I would turn it on to help in the future.
It must have been the windows update.  I left it installing (extremely slowly) when I left for work.  When I came home the install had completed and I was prompted to restart.  Once the restart completed everything was back to normal, thank goodness.

I just got a PCI-E Wifi Card (Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I) and after fighting with an "Error 10" on the device I finally got it to work. Now I'm stuck with the issue of not being able to access most websites. Only major ones like Google, Amazon, Youtube, Facebook, etc. work. When using Chrome I get an ERR_EMPTY_RESPONSE error and when I use anything else the site just doesn't LOAD and I get no error. I'm using Windows 10 Pro 64bit.
 
Solutions I've tried:
 
-Restarting the router
 
-Disabling the firewall
 
-Flushing DNS
 
-Setting default DNS as 8.8.8.8 or 8.8.4.4 and 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.4.4
 
-Turning off Ipv6
 
-Trying multiple browsers
 
-Cleaning the cache on browsers/disabling extensions
 
-I've tried a few more that involve the Command Prompt but I can't remember the exact commands.
 
I've seen multiple solutions suggesting that it's the router, but multiple other devices are working just fine on the same network, including a few laptops. I'm at a LOSS here, I've gone through dozens of forums and Youtube videos looking for a solution but none have worked so far. Please help!
 
Also, I know ethernet is optimal and worth trying, but I'm in a position where ethernet isn't an option.
Quick answer. If it were me, I would send the card BACK to the vendor.
And I would instead use a lo-cost USB  WiFi dongle for wireless inside my home. These low cost things are now very good and Windows will install them correctly.
You can find them at Amazon, New egg and Walmart. And other vendors.

Less than $22 from most vendorsWill they provide a solid enough connection to do things like gaming? I hear PCI adapters tend to have BETTER connections, or is that only adapter dependant?You are mistaken. 
Type N wireless adaptors  are Type N wireless adaptors. The fact that they use USB instead of PCI makes no real difference. The difference is psychological. The  true limit is the Internet connection, not the bus speed.

Incidents in the internet

Hello

I have a cable MODEM, HOWEVER in the internet when opening WEBSITES it is very slow and uploads too

Why is that

HELLO, FRIENDS, I hope somebody can help me with my problem,

I have a laptop which I am unable to use the internet.
In Order to Login to my Belkin Router Setup Page. I found 192.168.2.1
These things are totally unknown and new for me.
I want somebody to help



Depending on the MODEL Number of it.... there may be a video on YOUTUBE showing its features. The default configuration should work for internet, then FIRST thing to change is the router password of which I use a sharpie marker to write it on the bottom of the router so later if you NEED to get back into it the password is on the router.

If connecting to it wireless then you will need to read up on that and set that up. There might even be a video on youtube showing your model and how to set this up.

Additionally there is the user manual for it at belkins website.

I believe my ip camera has been hacked, can I USE wireshark or another MEANS to monitor traffic on the camera? If your IP Camera was hacked then I'd be working in a fix within the ROUTER to block them out or Camera security changes to block them out. If there is an EXPLOIT that targets your camera then the manufacturer may have a flash AVAILABLE to fix for it.

My Wifi Doesnt RUN well. SOMETIMES it gets stuck showing no networks and sometimes works. I've tried uninstalling drivers and tried updating and checked all the services RELATED to it but seems everything from windows working fine. I have to restart the Laptop in order for the problem is fixed but it's just once every few times.. any helps please ?


windows version?
laptop make/model?
inbuilt wifi adapter or add-on USB adaptor?

"just once every few times?"... does that mean once an hour, once a day?

instead of rebooting the PC, does disabling/re-enabling the wifi adapter in Control Panel >  Device Manager work?I have HP ENVY DV7 windows 10 1709version and it has qualcomm atheros wifi adapter.

The problem happens by LUCK. sometimes it happens and other times it doesn't and still can't figure out the problem is but what i do keep restarting the laptop until the wireless is running good back and if it doesn't it show the laptop as the wifi is turned off but when i press the wifi on through the panel it LAGS for around a minute and does nothing no matter how i try to turn it on, even from the settings.
and just as a notice the laptop always turns on with wifi off even if i shutdown the laptop with wifi was kept on.

I just wonder if the boot has got to do anything about it and can't think of anything that makes the problem comes and goes by chance. when you uninstalled the wireless drivers, where did you get the latest ones from to reinstall... Qualcomm, HP or Windows Updates?

My COMPUTER can go online, but computer GAMES can't go online. My computer cannot receive DATA from the game server

I use chrome and recently ive been having to clear my browsing data to fix the issue (see attached images). When the problem happens my internet just turns off and for some reason clearing my browsing history just fixes that? How does that work? and why do I gatta do it every week. So this only happens every 7 days?

Is this your internet connection or are you connecting to someone elses?

There is a hotel chain that issues free internet in 7-DAY blocks to which you NEED to revisit their home page and request ANOTHER 7 days of free lower speed internet with option to paying for faster bandwidth, which comes to mind. As I have run into the 7 day lease connecting to hotel networks. So this has me thinking that maybe your connected to someone elses network that gives out 7-day leases on internet. Quote from: DaveLembke on October 03, 2018, 10:15:50 AM

So this only happens every 7 days?

Is this your internet connection or are you connecting to someone elses?

There is a hotel chain that issues free internet in 7-day blocks to which you need to revisit their home page and request another 7 days of free lower speed internet with option to paying for faster bandwidth, which comes to mind. As I have run into the 7 day lease connecting to hotel networks. So this has me thinking that maybe your connected to someone elses network that gives out 7-day leases on internet.

Any other computers experiencing this or just this one?

Hi All.

This SOUNDS like a simple problem, but I have tried everything.

Problem: Bought 2 new inexpensive Acer desktops with windows 10. With both computers on, websites have a 5-10 second delay before they load. Then they load quickly. This happens with both computers. If we sleep or turn off one computer, the problem goes away. It seems to be some sort of interference the two computers are having between themselves.

Details: We have high speed 100gb cable internet, new modem, new wireless router with twin band 2.5 and 5MHZ. No PROBLEMS with old computers on this new equipment. Cable company has TESTED everything on their end. Their service, the modem, and router appear to be working correctly.

What We Have Tried: It happens with all browsers. We have cleared DNS SETTINGS. We have changed DNS settings. We have cleared cache's. We have run virus software. We have tried running with no virus software. We have tried running in safe mode. We have tried moving the modem/router closer. We have tried changing router channels. We have tried running one computer on the 2.5ghz, and one on the 5ghz.

Suggestions to fix it?

Thanks.

I don't know if this is the right forum or if you can help me.

I have two cable modems - at my apartment and my mother-in-law's. Same cable company but different cities. I have a Netgear N450 at home and a Netgear C3700-100NAS at MiLs.

The  C3700  has the ability to set up multiple SSID's. There is a 2.4 GHz B/G/N option, a 5 GHz A/N option, and a "Guest" (also 2.4).

Her Blu-Ray player (my old Blu-Ray player, actually) is on the 2.4 BGN as is her printer. (Neither will connect to a 5Ghz AN connection.) Her iPhone, her iPad, my Android phone, and my Windows 10 PC all connect to the 5AN connection. (My Win 10 PC has all Windows updates and all drivers and firmware patches).

So that's the setup. Here's the problem.

My laptop frequently drops connectivity from the main network. The Blu-Ray, printer, phones, and iPads all maintain connectivity. The lights on the router all show all systems go.

When I say "drops connectivity", I lose the ability to connect to anything. My wifi bars in the system tray show a full signal, but I get a little yellow exclamation point over them. When I hover over the system tray, it shows the network SSID and "No Internet Access". Clicking on it to bring up a list of networks shows the network there, but instead of reading "Connected, Secured" it reads "No Internet, Secured".

This happens only to my laptop (not other devices) only at my mother-in-law's, not at home. This is a studio, clear line of sight to the router, and it doesn't seem to matter how close or how far the PC is from the router.

This first started on a visit in August. It was fine on visits in November and December. This issue happened once on a January visit. I got here last night, and it started this morning. The router was installed in October 2016. I did not have the issue at all while at home between the August visit and last week.

It appears to happen randomly. Sometimes I can have one Firefox tab open on an article, other times I have had multiple tabs with streaming video running , when it cuts out. Sometimes I'm saving something to the cloud, sometimes I'm just sitting here, when it cuts out. Sometimes I can go days with no problem, sometimes it's over and over. I have had issues in the daytime, NIGHTTIME, sunny days, rainy days, cold days, and warm days. Humidity seems to be a constant. (Hey, I'm grasping here!)

When it cuts out, it remains out for a varying length of time. Sometimes less than a minute, sometimes ten or more minutes.

When it happens, I can instantly switch to the Guest network and can connect to Internet (but the router prevents Guest connections from accessing the printer on the 2.4BGN). I have never had this issue on the Guest network. (And again, the Blu-Ray on the 2.4BGN network has never had this problem). Androids and iPads on the 5AN don't seem to be effected. So I presume it's how my particular laptop connects to this 5AN network.

Sometimes rebooting helps.

Here's what I have done, based on Google suggestions (not in order):

• Confirmed my drivers are up-to-date
• Uninstalled the drivers and let Windows reinstall on a reboot
• Run the Troubleshooter
• 'Forgotten' the networks, rebooted, and re-installed them
• From an Administrator PowerShell window, run netsh winsock reset and netsh int ip reset and rebooted
• Tried different channels for the 5AN network (options are 36, 40, 44, 48, 149, 153, 157, and 161. There is no "Auto" option. Originally was on 40; I have since tried 149, 157, and am now on 36. The 2.4 BGN is set for "Auto" but seems to always choose channel 6 or 11. The Guest network doesn't have the ability to see/adjust its channel.)
• Changed the value for TxAMSDU from 1 to 0 at HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\mrvlpcie8897
• Used Window's Network Reset command

• Band is set to "Auto" (other options = "2.4GHz only", "5GHz only")
• Packet Coalescing is set to "Enabled" (other option = "Disabled")
• Wake on Pattern Match is set to "Enabled" (other option = "Disabled")
• WMM-PS is set to "Optimized" (other option = "High Performance")

This happens only to my laptop (not other devices) only at my mother-in-law's, not at home. This is a studio, clear line of sight to the router, and it doesn't seem to matter how close or how far the PC is from the router.

If you have a Surface Pro 3 or any other Windows 8.1 or Windows 10 device and are having WiFi issues when resuming from sleep/hibernate and often have to reset your wireless network adapter or reboot to reconnect to WiFi then this might help. Just download the fix from https://github.com/TomChantler/Restart-WiFi-Adapter and import it into your Task Scheduler by running install.bat and it should automatically reset your WiFi adapter each time you resume from sleep/hibernate. It's a one-click procedure which doesn't install any files.

Does this have any relation to distance from the router, e.g. do you still get drops when you are right next to it?  The 5GHz frequency is more easily blocked by obstacles so even though there is less interference in that band, the signals will often not travel as far as 2.4GHz ones.

This happens only to my laptop (not other devices) only at my mother-in-law's, not at home. This is a studio, clear line of sight to the router, and it doesn't seem to matter how close or how far the PC is from the router.

Tri-Band Pros
    More connected devices are less likely to negatively affect Wi-Fi speeds
    Three separate Wi-Fi bands means three times the bandwidth
    You can dedicate each band to devices in the home or office
    More bands equals less interference
    High CPU speeds make faster file transfers and smoother handling of multiple Wi-Fi-connected devices

Tri-Band Cons
    Significantly higher cost than dual-band models
    If you don't have a lot of 5 GHz-compatible Wi-Fi devices, the upgrade might not be too noticeable
Take note of that last bit—if you're in a studio apartment rocking a laptop, a smartphone, and a gaming console, sticking with your dual-band router is probably a safe bet. But if you plan on Netflix-ing 4K movies downstairs while your spouse streams recipe videos from a tablet in the kitchen, your kid's Pandora station never stops, and your guest harbors a World of Warcraft addiction, it might just be time to add that third traffic lane to your home's Wi-Fi freeway.

I've only had this for a week, but since the WIFI on my laptop won't work anymore, this has basically saved me from having to purchase another laptop for business travel needs. I installed per instructions and it's working great, very fast connectivity and connection speeds. I am totally satisfied with this product!

Hello, so i have been trying to open my ports for few games, but i will list the xbox APP on windows 10 as an EXAMPLE. I recently purchased a public IP from my isp so i can port forward PROPERLY and not have a strict nat type. after opening all the ports on my router and firewall, i'm still getting strict and check my ports websites just say the ports are still open. Any ideas on what COULD lead to this?

Thank you for your help

Hi there, so basically I am not sure if I am unable to SHARE the folders CORRECTLY (even though I have DONE this before many times) or maybe there is something preventing me from accessing the shared folders.
I am also unable to access the shared folders from the Network section (Folder explorer) from the same pc I am SHARING the folders / files.

What I have tried so far:
I have enabled all the services required.
I have updated windows.
I have (with powershell) made my network profile as private instead of public.
I have enabled network sharing on the Sharing settings.
I have tried sharing another folder from my SSD instead of Hard Disk.
Even tried the \\localhost
I have double checked on the services required / which need to be running.

Windows 10.0.17134 Build 17134 (Win10-PRO 64x)

NOTE: I have attached pictures of the error / message I am getting and some further information.


Kind regards, SolocidYou hid your name, but not Lindi's.
That's me also, Solocid is my nickname also. Anyways hoping for a fix :/

how to grab youtube video url via wiresharkWhy use wireshark when the URL should be in URL window of your browser?

Additionally if its a webpage that has a video that is really up on youtube but in a window frame in a web page you should be able to right-click on the window and get information that way which would REVEAL the URL path.

Additionally if you can see the page source for the page your at that has an embedded youtube video it should have an iframe as information SHOWS here which would reveal the path. http://www.simplehtmlguide.com/youtube.php

If wireshark is the only way then CHECK out this here as a possible solution: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/1097488/decoding-url-in-wireshark

Hi. Can anybody tell me what's the difference between free and paid VPN? and which VPN should I go for if I have a low budget? Quote from: nstuart on December 02, 2016, 08:19:56 AM

Hi. Can anybody tell me what's the difference between free and paid VPN? and which VPN should I go for if I have a low budget?

Setting up your own FREE tunnel is best to avoid monkey in the middle attack. This requires you to set up the tunnel at both ends or a 2nd person at the other end to set up their half of the tunnel connection to join up with yours with encryption etc for highest security.

If you dont know how to do this then your stuck going with someone elses provided service, in which i would trust a paid for service over a free service as for NOTHING IS FREE, so what is the catch. How are they making money on you connected through them etc. Additionally check for online reviews to see if the service is a good one or bad reviews. Avoid those that dont have any reviews as for there might be a reason why they refuse to share review info about themselves etc. Like PIA, it is cheap and far better than any free service. It is indeed finest and features riched service in such price.

Going with anyone elses service there is the chance that someone in between at the business offering the VPN could have a rogue employee or could be compromised in which traffic can be intercepted as for their business is acting like a switchboard to supply the tunnel. Anyone with admin access at that business can watch packets and see whats going back and forth etc.

For 2 days  I have had the following problem. I can connect my tablet to my BT hub without any problems, but suddenly, I have been unable to connect my PC. To the router. When I open the box showing various routers in my local district mine just shows " BTHub6-****", No Internet, secured. When I run a help prog., I get WiFi: doesn't have a valid IP Configuration. I have tried several 'instant cures' from off the internet without any success. I have tried the WPS WiFi button on the router but nothing. In simple talk, can anyone help? Peter.There are people here that can help. But some detail is needed.
Who is your network provider and is this a home or business?
Did you pay your bill? Is your service metered or limited?
What computer do you have?  What sort of Wi-Fi- adapter does it have?
What have you recently changed? **
What is the 'Hub" you describe?
Which other devices work well on the Wi-Fi?
Are many people sharing this network?

** There are rare cases where a new peripheral device will ruin Wi-Fi
https://www.networkcomputing.com/wireless/7-wifi-killers-may-surprise-you/1158544899Thanks for your reply.
Network Provider:  BT.    Home system.    Paid by monthly DD and up to date and UNLIMITED. 
Maker:  HP.  All-in-One PC22.    BT Hub 6 .   Tablet and Smart TV BOTH OK. WiFi Adapter: Realtek
RTL8723BE 802.11 bgn WiFi Adaptor , DRIVER version: 2023.71.1201.2017:
I am the only one on the network.  Peter.the message "no internet, secured" would suggest the Hub is pumping out a wifi signal, which you can see and JOIN, but itself is not connecting to the web.
but then you say your tablet and smart TV are OK - do you mean they connect wirelessly to the hub AND can search the web?
what lights are showing ON on the hub?
have you tried rebooting (not resetting) the hub?have you logged into the hub's menu config VIA a browser and checked it has your username/password correctly entered?and lastly, ring your Provider, they will confirm things their end are OK - like, bill paid, account active, scheduled downtime on the service, line faults, maintenance in the area etc.
Here is a review of the BT Hub for home.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTckH6E40-I
It does both WI-Fi bands. Maybe your WI-Fi adapter works only on the low band and the other devices use the high band.
Check to see if the hub is doing both bands and has the same protocol.Thanks to those who replied. I finally contacted the shop that sold me the computer earlier this year. and was invited to take it in. After uploading many updates, the machine is working fine. I have regularly updated the drivers, so I THOUGHT using a separate Driver Updater, but the HP Support Assistant, who the shop connected to, soon found out otherwise. Many Drivers had NOT been updated, especially the WiFi ones. You live and learn. Thanks again for taken the trouble to contact me. Peter.Keytapper,
Thank you for sharing with us.  yeah those 'drive updater' programs (in my experience anyway) should be avoided like the plague.
nothing but snake-oil peddlers.
any more often than not, simply get it wrong or at worst, are malicious.

I have Ubuntu Server up and running on my laptop. It is intended as a web server and I have a Static IP for it. All I want to do is attach a portable router to the laptop and when I run the webserver I can have other tablets connect via browser to the server via the static IP and through the portable router.

However I am stuck. Don't know how to configure the router so that the tablets can connect to the webserver.

Do I need to make a static IP in the router to connect to the static IP of the webserver? I just don't know.

The router I have is: https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR802N.html

And it will not connect to the internet and will run like a intranet. The webserver will be run as soon as I START up Ubuntu.

If you can help I appreciate it. Thanks.Seems like routing might be getting in the way. Can you set it to bridge mode? Make sure the gateway in the dhcp range and in the server isn't getting in the way. Seems like you might want the server to be in the same subnet.

For a quick and easy setup, set it in bridge mode and put everything on the same subnet.

If I were doing it for like a portable game server (not sure what your use case is), I would set my static ip address on the server to something like 192.168.0.2/24 with a gateway of 192.168.0.1. Then set the "external interface" on the router (interface for the web server) to 192.168.0.1/24.
Then set the dhcp range to 192.168.1.10-20/24 with a gateway of 192.168.1.1. Set the "INTERNAL interface" (wifi) on the router to 192.168.1.1/24.
Normally, something like this setup would not allow anything from the web server to initiate traffic to the clients. Only the clients could initiate. If you want the server to be able to initiate traffic, there should be a firewall setting in the router to open it up.

Just thought of ANOTHER possible cause..... check your internal firewalls. Make sure you're allowing inbound communication.It is not clear what you want to do.
An Internet Server means a server that can SERVE very wise area.
A local area server is called an Intranet Server.

Is the purpose file sharing?
Is it to play a multi-user game?

Here are two videos that might help you:
(Skip the advertisements.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJjEzek2e6I
Watch two videos there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDwoDj2cW6c
Just the first video.
Please let me know is that was any help. 

How do you  to wire a new house for TV and Internet. 

My brother is building a new house himself. He is at the point where he wants to wire the house for TV and Internet in each major room. (Not to be in garage or bathrooms.)  So it may take four cable drops. He wants to drop for the attic, not the crawl space. Here is California the crawl space is often just 18 inches. 

So the question is this' Should he go with Coax? or UTP ?'
Coax would be RG6 and UTP would be CAT6. Either It is for  for in-wall installation.

Well, there is such a thing as a Diplexerthat can put both TV and Ethernet over a Coax cable for a short distance. Here are some posts on other sites.

[A diplexer is frequency multiplex - Wikipedia]

AT&T with Direct TV

https://forums.att.com/t5/U-verse-TV-Installation/COAX-to-Ethernet/m-p/5102720#M4605

https://www.snbforums.com/threads/directv-broadband-deca-ethernet-to-coax-adapter-third-generation.44385/

Comcast & Xfinity.

https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/Internet-Archive/Networking-with-coax-and-ethernet-Will-this-thought-process/td-p/2254275

https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/Internet-Archive/Coaxial-to-Ethernet-Is-it-possible/td-p/2968125

You Tube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00J4WeVRrVA


But I am thinking that is not the way to do it.
Maybe WIRELESS everything?
Or maybe just drop both kinds of cable to each major room?

I am not sure.v   
What would you say?drop both.
that way he will always have options.I recently did this to my new flat (apartment) (although mine was a retrofit to an existing building which was a fair bit more difficult than installing it in a new built) - I made a YouTube video documenting the installation process: https://youtu.be/uGRYfVdAja4 and showing the finished result: https://youtu.be/5p1s5XSjBP8.  The videos are obviously fairly specific to my installation although the general hardware used and layout should apply elsewhere.

Here's an album of my adventures ripping holes in my walls/ceilings to install the cabling: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mAHnuspTJYNojU1T9

Generally what you'd WANT to do is run all of your cables back to a central point in the building and terminate them at a patch panel, this central point is where you would have your network switch and other distribution hardware.  For networking you want to run standard twisted PAIR cable, for most situations I'd go with CAT6, higher ratings such as CAT6A would be worthwhile only if you plan on running 10gbit networking over it however this cable is much more expensive, bulkier and harder to run so I tend to stick with CAT6 which can still technically do 10gbit over shorter lengths.  The only bit of advice I'd give is to make sure that whatever cable you buy is pure copper, some UNSCRUPULOUS sellers (particularly the extremely cheap cable on eBay and Amazon) use copper clad aluminium which is a much cheaper, lower quality cable.

I'd recommend dropping multiple CAT6 cables to each room in sensible locations near to where devices may be located.  I'd always put in more jacks than you need as it's relatively cheap to do and it's better having ones you don't use rather than lacking ones that you do.  For example, you'd probably want 2-4 ports behind each TV to allow for smart TVs, set top boxes and games consoles.  I'd also run cables for use with wireless access points in sensible, central locations.  In my case I mounted the access point on the ceiling in the hallway.

The CAT6 cable can also be used for things other than networking, with special hardware you can send HDMI video SIGNALS over it which could be useful.  It's also suitable for use with analogue telephones so don't bother running those separately, just run more CAT6 as it's more useful.  Then, at the central location, rather than connecting the telephone ports to a network switch, you would link them up to your incoming phone line.

As for coax, I'm not familiar with the Cable TV networks in the US although you're probably going to want to run at least one to each location where you plan on having a TV.  I'd forget about using the coax for any sort of networking, the hardware that exists to do this is expensive and only really designed for use in environments where coax is already in place and the user doesn't want to run new cables, there's no reason to use them where installing actual CAT6 is an option.10 Gigabit Ethernet
Wow! With that I could do anything!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/10_Gigabit_Ethernet
Quote

.... Unlike previous Ethernet standards, 10 Gigabit Ethernet defines only full-duplex point-to-point links which are generally connected by network switches ...

At one point in my life, I had this dialed down. Now, I'm getting an error and I can't figure out why.

I WANT to open a port (duh).

I went into my router - a Netgear Residential Gateway CG3000DV2-RG and created a "Port Forwarding Rule":
.
(Yes, my IPV4 is 192.168.0.

I went to an open-port-checking site, and it timed out.



I thought maybe my FIREWALL was messing with me, so I created two rules, one for TCP and one for UDP. Both are enabled, both are set to allow all connections, all profiles (Domain/Private/Public), for Local and Remote ports.

I have specified Port 3567 for all of this - that should be OK, right? (nb: I also TRIED port 30329, same results).

What am I missing?What service are you trying to port forward to, i.e. what are you running on port 3567 or 30329?  Can you access this service from another machine on the same local network?It's a torrent program. Why WOULD that make a difference on whether or not the port can be seen?

(I can't test it on another machine right now, but what's interesting is, if I run my VPN, it passes through the VPN port no prob. Trouble is, the torrent program and the VPN don't play nice).


And before everyone gets all worked up, I'm not engaging in piracy!You will need to make sure the ports you are forwarding are also allowed as incoming connections in any firewall software (including Windows Firewall) on the system being forwarded to.

EDIT: I see you've done that Quote

(Yes, my IPV4 is 192.168.0.

(Yes, my IPV4 is 192.168.0.8)

They wrote this in their post:The got replaced with the sunglasses emoticon.

I just mapped a corporate SHAREPOINT drive to My Computer.

It has a really long - like, really long - (I mean it, it's insanely long) name.

I'd like it to appear in my Explorer as something like, oh, I don't know, "Sharepoint".

If I F2 it - will it change its name ONLY as it appears on my machine, or will I start to do some damage?Pathing will remain same unless you edit map path. The name you have can be as simple as X:Thanks. I was pretty sure but not willing to risk it!If you are running Windows 10 1709 or above you can use the OneDrive client to connect to your SharePoint site which is a lot more stable to be honest.  You can set it to 'Files On Demand' so it only pulls down the files you are working on, I use this at work and it works great.Interesting! But does it put the files on your HD, and count against your limit, or does it "stay" on Sharepoint? I lost the client PROJECT, so I'm not connected to their SP anymore, but I'll try that next time.It downloads the file to use but keeps it sync'd to Office 365, I've created a batch file that on log off and if the file has been sync'd to set the file to online only so freeing up the space on your local machine.  I'm currently deploying this for 1500 users and so far it seems to work really well.  Please see below an example of the cmd's I'm USING:-

cd "c:\users\%username%\OneDrive - MyCompany"
attrib  +U -P /s
cd "c:\users\%username%\MyCompany"
attrib  +U -P /sDidn't recognize those attrib switches. Looking on my Windows 10 system I don't see them listed. Is the U and P switches part of some addon to Windows?

Even looking here.. I see a reference to P as SPARSE but no U switch. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_attribute

Quote

Microsoft Windows [Version 10.0.14393]
(c) 2016 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

C:\Users\Dave>attrib/?
Displays or changes file attributes.

ATTRIB [+R | -R] [+A | -A ] [+S | -S] [+H | -H] [+I | -I]
       [drive:][path][filename] [/S [/D] [/L]]

  +   Sets an attribute.
  -   Clears an attribute.
  R   Read-only file attribute.
  A   Archive file attribute.
  S   System file attribute.
  H   Hidden file attribute.
  I   Not content indexed file attribute.
  X   No scrub file attribute.
  V   Integrity attribute.
  [drive:][path][filename]
      Specifies a file or files for attrib to process.
  /S  Processes matching files in the current folder
      and all subfolders.
  /D  Processes folders as well.
  /L  Work on the attributes of the Symbolic Link versus
      the target of the Symbolic Link


C:\Users\Dave>

I'm thinking of trying a VPN.  Up to now, I've never used a VPN service.  I have AVAST AntiVirus installed on one system and avast offers their VPN service for only $1.99/mo, billed at $23.88/yr, and they offer slightly lower cost for subscribing for 2 or 3 years. And, it COVERS up to 5 devices (PC, Mac, Adroid, and iOS). So, the cost is low but a review at https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2420857,00.asp only gives it a 3-star, or Good, rating.  Just wondering whether anyone can COMMENT on their experience with any of the VPN services.

I am under the impression one shortcoming of avast SecureLine VPN is a SMALL number of servers/locations, compared to some of the other VPN services, and that fact could result is slower speeds than services running more servers at more locations. if you're thinking of just VPN'ing browser traffic, Opera COMES with a free VPN built-in which I thought was OK until I stumbled upon this article; https://www.vpnanalysis.com/worst-vpns/

So my D-Link router died and I replaced it with a newer router. Oddly in order to set port forwarding for my Vonage Phone it told me you cant set up port forwarding with SPI enabled. So I set a reservation for the MAC address of the Vonage Phone to be at a SPECIFIC IP Address. Then rebooted the Vonage Phone so it picked up the IP Address as reserved. I turned off SPI and then was able to set the port forwarding for port range 21 through 10000. Vonage phone then working.

However when done and all working and password changed from default and all that, I decided to look into the SPI Firewall as for I never seen that feature before in prior routers that I had and how dangerous is it to run with SPI disabled. Shouldnt there be another firewall in place that protects devices other than SPI?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stateful_firewall

Looking online there was suggestions of putting the Vonage Phone on the DMZ and then no port forwarding needed, however the Vonage Phone is about 11 years old and there might be an exploit to hack it and putting it on the DMZ to me is playing with FIRE as for its wide open to hackers as ANYTHING on DMZ would be.

I have been using Port Forwarding for years and no problems. I have only used my DMZ when running Honey Pots to fish for hackers years ago and have them attack or alter my honey pot system for me to then OFFLINE check out what kinds of scripts and hacks they plant on it ETC. I stopped doing this when someone started to DDoS attack me and it KILLED my Phone and Internet until I got my Cable Modem to connect to a different IP through ISP.

https://community.linksys.com/t5/Wireless-Routers/Is-it-safe-to-disable-SPI-Firewall-Protection-on-your-home/td-p/835382

Here below is the link to the router that I have. Originally I bought this because I wanted a cheap NAS solution, but never went through with that project and when D-link died, I took it out of the box and set it up as the new home router. https://www.skivatech.com/products/easyconnect-n300-nas-wifi-router

Hi everyone, I apologize if this is the wrong section or if this breaks any rules.  If so please move or delete.  Ok so, I am re-opening my business and My old tech GUY has moved and I can't reach him.  Basically I have my own server I spent a pretty penny on and I'm trying to get my office network up and running and servers are not my specialty by any means.  My question is how do I go about getting my website put up and email up and working for my employees.  Do I need a host for both? I would like a uniform email system that would give me for example [email protected]  I would need to be able to access all employees emails from said server.  So what steps should I take to begin getting this set up?  The server is already set up and wired throughout the facility.  My website is already built from my last business I just need to make a few changes to it before I put it up.  Do I need an email host?  Or can I do it on my own server?  Do I need a website host or domain or?  thanks so muchMy best suggestion is to hire out an IT PROFESSIONAL who can get this connected and secure for you. You will need to establish a static IP with ISP in order to run a server that has a WEB presence otherwise your IP would be changing at times which could cause problems. Most ISP's require a business account plan purchased for internet access for a business. Have seen people do it with residential plans and some PORT manipulation to "hide" hosted traffic on non traditional ports, but you can get into trouble with ISP when trying to work away their residential ISP plan port blocks. I feel you should hire someone to set this all up for you. Additionally, they might tell you that its cheaper and easier to manage a 3rd party hosted service for your business vs hosting your own servers which come with what can be a costly electric bill to run the server(s) 24/7/365 as well as a hosted service you wouldn't have to worry about an IT professional for a server issue, the 3rd party would assume all costs associated with HARDWARE failure and keeping it secure from known threats.

I have been trying to connect to my local Hospitals Personal Health Records, which closed for maintenance beginning of June for 3 days, but I cannot get a CONNECTION since. I have a PC and on both I get the 404 message. Have cleared caches but to no avail. However, on my next door neighbours PC, connection is there. On my PC, W10 and Microsoft EDGE. On my Apple Tablet on Safari and Edge. Same result on each one. All other WWW addresses obtainable, just the one. Any ideas please in SIMPLE English?check your security software, like your AV program, browser adblocker or add-ons in general, modified HOSTS FILE etc.in other words, things that you would have that your neighbour wouldn't.things like adblockers can be disabled, AV software can can temporarily turned off.
other avenues; try a different browser on your PC, reboot your modem.
Thanks for your reply. I have managed to get round the problem but cannot understand why . Every time I try to get the site by typing in the www...into the address bar it  returns the 404. However, when I put the details of the site into the SEARCH box, it comes up with the SAME www.address and then OPENS the site without a problem. Most odd. Thanks again for your reply. Peter.

I have a Linksys E1200 and I am having to do a HARD reset to it about every week. I will have internet(wireless) on my DEVICE and then one of them will claim that it is NOTR getting SIGNAL (connecting, saved, secerd over and over again) I will have signal on the other device (never the same device each time). I cannot look at the settings for the router even when though I still have internet when CONNECTED though I can still search the web. I was wondering short of buying a new router if there was a way to fix this issue.
Quote from: bellow on July 27, 2018, 01:14:29 PM

I have a Linksys E1200 and I am having to do a hard reset to it about every week....

I changed from a Netgear R8000 router to a Netgear RBR50 router with satellite in order to get better wifi coverage. The wifi and INTERNET connection are working but not I can't communicate with my home network.  The computers/mobiles can't see each other. I thought maybe it was necessary to set the workgroup in the RBR50 setup but I don't see any place to do that.  How can I get my Windows computers and mobiles to see each other and share files?Giving them all access to Google Drive is a way to share up to 15GB cloud storage between them which is easiest.The problem turned out to be that on the LAST Windows update, Windows REMOVED the shares.  I put the shares back in Windows and I could see everything again.fruitful investigations then.
good FIND.

Found it INTERESTING that the NEW Linksys AC1200 that I bought for $29.99 after instant $30 savings on $59.99 price tag at BJ's didnt require any port forwarding to get my Vonage VoIP phone to work.

Do new routers now detect the devices connected to them and know what needs forwarding?

All other routers in the past Vonage wouldnt work unless I went in a port forwarded. Usually I had to create a reservation for that mac address to Vonage device to have a set IP and then port forwarding for that IP for ports 21 thru 10000 for tcp and udp.

Received phone call while configuring router live tonight and tested phone after that call and Vonage is happy and no forwarding added which is cool but also like how does this work correctly without forwarding configuration.

https://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-EA6100/

Other thing strange is I guess Belkin bought out Linksys because the web interface for configuration states 2017 Belkin towards the bottom of the page.  The router probably provides something like SIP-ALG (Application layer Gateway) that the VOIP software can utilize.

There are a few games and game consoles which use similar router features in ORDER to avoid having to advise the end-user to set up port forwarding stuff, too.Cool that must be what it is then.

 I remember seeing a check box for SIP Enabled so that must be what that is. I left it enabled by default not exactly knowing what it is, but figured its important enough for the router manufacturer to have it enabled by default so leave it enabled. In devices connected its able to DETERMINE what is what from the mac address manufacturer identification too. It shows the Playstation 3 etc. It interestingly knew it was a VoIP Phone device with mac address with the icon it gave it but it didnt state Vonage, but I was able to go in and rename it for EASY identification if I ever need to check on things in future with many devices connected I can know what is what. I verified the mac address to know what it is before renaming it.

Specs: Windows 7

Is there any program or Windows utility that you know of that does this?

I WOULD LIKE to see what device in my network is USING what IP address.You could try ARP.

C:\Users\Me>where arp
C:\Windows\System32\ARP.EXE

C:\Users\Me>arp -a

Interface: 192.168.0.3 --- 0x3
  Internet Address      Physical Address      Type
  192.168.0.1           50-6a-03-41-d4-43     dynamic
  192.168.0.2           00-10-75-2f-da-44     dynamic
  192.168.0.5           00-21-70-82-6a-ea     dynamic
  192.168.0.8           fc-b4-e6-92-d2-a1     dynamic
  192.168.0.9           00-0c-29-2c-77-56     dynamic
  192.168.0.15          68-94-23-d3-c3-16     dynamic
  192.168.0.255         ff-ff-ff-ff-ff-ff     static
  224.0.0.22            01-00-5e-00-00-16     static
  224.0.0.251           01-00-5e-00-00-fb     static
  224.0.0.252           01-00-5e-00-00-fc     static
  224.0.0.253           01-00-5e-00-00-fd     static
  239.255.255.250       01-00-5e-7f-ff-fa     static
  255.255.255.255       ff-ff-ff-ff-ff-ff     static

Both my modem (Alcatel Lucent i240G-T) and router (D-Link DIR-850L) are located at downstairs. In recent weeks, the signal has been weak when I'm trying to accessing the wifi from upstairs. I've tried to reset the router but it doesn't help. The signal used to be strong. Not sure what was the issue.

So I tried to use my old modem (ASUS DSL-N12E) as a second router upstairs. Now when I'm using the wifi upstairs, despite both network can be detected, the device (phone/laptop) will still "prefer" to connect to the D-Link network despite the ASUS router is located much nearer. Therefore, adding the ASUS as a second router basically serves no purpose as it doesn't work as it should.

Attached below is how I connect the three devices.Here is a quick response.
I use double rooters in my home network.
In general, it not a recommended thing to do. But here are some reasons.
1. To extend the range of your network. Normal Ethernet cable go up to about 300 FEET or about 100 meters.  A inexpensive router can be used as a 'boaster' to help drive another long cable.
2. You wireless coverage does not reach the cabin in the backyard. The same router in example above  could also extend the wireless range on a separate channel.
3. With two routers,you can have more  control over how guests use your wireless network.

To make two routers work together, you need a tutorial on how to set IP for each router and how to manage DHCP.
Have you already read this?
https://www.wikihow.com/Connect-Two-Routers
Quote

How to Connect Two Routers
Two Methods:Using Ethernet Using Wireless

This wikiHow teaches you how to connect two routers together. By connecting your routers, you can extend both the range and the maximum number of connections that your Internet can handle. The easiest way to connect two routers is by using Ethernet, though you may be able to use a wireless router to connect to the primary router

Watching how your WiFi signal behaves over several minutes or even hours could help identify if the current location for it is ideal or causing problems. Here we list 5 free tools that show a graph for your wireless signal so you can watch it over a period of time to see how it behaves.
1. NetSpot

NetSpot is a free wireless network signal analysis and troubleshooting tool available for both Mac and Windows computers. In addition to a standard WiFi discovery and monitoring section it also has a site survey feature that allows for the RELATIVE network signal strengths to be plotted onto a map of your building or local area.
Read More: https://www.raymond.cc/blog/homedale-wlan-monitor-watch-log-wifi-signal/

I was troubleshooting a few unrelated things when I noticed in my Windows Explorer, under "Network", random phones appear.

Every TIME I Refresh, it seems it's a different PHONE, with a different MAC address.

I disabled MAC filtering on my router a few years ago (I believe on advice from this board, although I will never find that post). But I do have a pretty SOLID password on my router.

My router's interface is pretty crappy - it actually doesn't show active users, just "approved" users. (It's a Netgear CG3000-DV2).

I am presuming that this is just people in/around my building with WiFi TURNED on on their phones - the phones are pinging my network, but not actually connecting.

Or do I have a bigger problem?

And if I do, what do I do about it?

Thanks,Phones in the vicinity of the WiFi network wouldn't show up on the network.  Does your machine support Bluetooth?  This sounds like it's probably just picking up phones that have bluetooth turned on and is listed there to give you the option to pair to them.Hm. I *do* have Bluetooth on. Nothing is SHOWING up now - I'm presuming it spikes when lots of contractors are working on my building. Will play with BT tomorrow when they're here and see what happens.

In the meantime, what are some fun things I can download and torment them with? Surely there's something out there where I can punch in their MAC address and change their homescreen to a a grumpy cat picture or send there Contacts to Russian Facebook or something! Quote

Surely there's something out there where I can punch in their MAC address and change their homescreen to a a grumpy cat picture or send there Contacts to Russian Facebook or something!

So I'm dealing with random phones appearing on my network, but I think this is different (so I'm starting a different thread).

I plugged a thumb drive into my Netgear router (to use as a shared drive, natch).

According to the Google, to access the drive, I go to 192.168.0.5. OK, all good. It's there, files are there, everyone's happy.

I noticed in my router's MAC filtering page (which, as mentioned in the other thread, is not a listing of active connections), a device with IP 192.168.0.5, a MAC address, and its "INTERFACE" is listed as "ITC". (All of the other devices - my laptop, printer, my wife's phone and iPad, all have an "Interface" of "802.11".

So the question is - would that MAC/ITC that's listed be my thumb drive? Or something more nefarious?

Thanks!If the MAC address is 1 hex digit (at the end) different from the router's own MAC address, I think this could be a media- sharing service that Netgear routers set up as an ITC interface.Good catch! (See what I did there?)

I should have noticed that.

My Cable MAC address is :30, my Device MAC address is :31, and this so-called ANOMALY is :34... So I'm guessing that all ticks and ties together.

Thanks!The first portion (first 3 sections) of a MAC address indicates the vendor (manufacturer of either the device or the networking part of it) so if that's the same then they are from the same vendor.  The rest of it is a serial number of sorts ASSIGNED by that vendor.  You can look up the vendor for a MAC address with various tools such as https://macvendors.com/ which may help.  It's not 100% accurate as it'll sometimes show up as the manufacuter of the networking chipset or a lesser known name for the device's manufacturer rather than something clear like "Netgear" or "Lenovo" but it'll at least give some sort of idea.I had no idea. I was literally marvelling yesterday that all of my new Sonos equipment's MACs were so tightly clustered. #Explained!

When I ( turn off/sleep ) COMPUTER - pigpegger CHANGES behaviour:
 Getting rentless out of static POSITION - attempts to like ( chipping/scrabing ) something,
 or Turns down room light and goes to sleep,
 or Goes to toilet and locks up for up to 2 hours,
 or Most common - begins coughting.

My computer have:
Ethernet wire unplugged,
Network adapter disabled,
Inbound-Outbound rules blocks every connection,
Router unplugged.

Is it still possible for somebody to get INTERNET or something of my computer ( maybe ethernet lan card
still providing ethernet )?

( My UNCORFIRMED SCENARIO: iphone have limited internet 1GB of browsing per month, once it expires, thiev somehow uses of my computer to switch ( trick ) and gains extra +1GB for browsing  )

Hi all, I have two computers on the one Router/modem in my Network - both on W7. I need one computer to never see the Internet and remain in the Network, and the other to be limited to 12 hours daily on the Intenet and remain on the Network. I have a Netgear Gateway Pro through my Telstra dealer and have successfully limited one computer to 12 hours via Security/Block MAC SETTINGS. But, when I add another computer it seems I don't have the ability to make them DIFFERENT daily times, or at least - I cant work out how to do it. Seems it just defaults both of the computers to the same limited time. Can anyone help me out here, please?
Can you take a screenshot of your network configuration for this device for how you have this rule set for the 12 hour rule so we can see the rule and options you have available?

If there are any drop down menus for the settings please specify your options as well and we will try to help.

Only problem I ever had like this was that a router had a limit to how many devices had rules set for them. I ended up having to be creative to not have a rule apply to all, because I was limited in entries I just gave the router an IP address span for the rule so devices 192.168.1.2 thru 192.168.1.50 were on the restriction and these devices were set up with static IP Addresses and all other devices connecting were DHCP so they got 192.168.1.50 thru .250 and I reserved the few IP's after for static printer IP's etc. Maybe your router will allow a setting like this, then any device you have connected with a static IP you have the 12 hour limit on and others dont. Additionally if you had devices coming and going and didnt want to have to add mac address entries for each device but wanted them to apply to a rule, you could do the inverse on the router I had an set devices on DHCP to have the rule but static entries within an IP address range to be immune from restrictions. To be ABLE to help you better we need to see what type of configuration rules you can go with for your device as they vary between brand and even between models of the same brand. Some only allow restrictions via MAC address targeting, others allow IP range management. Its more common for MAC Address targeting, but maybe you can set a IP range for the rule like I did for a client.

The other way that I have restricted internet to only certain hours of the day for devices was by having a WIRED network with a electric timer with the 5 port network switch connected thru the timer for power. Only during specific times of the day would that switch be powered and offer a network an internet connection. But outside of this WINDOW of time it was completely offline.

Did this as well for someone who was paranoid about their wireless network being live all the time even though it was password protected, they wanted their wireless only active when they were home. So They wanted it active from 5pm to midnight and dead the rest of the day. So I connected their wireless router though this electric wall timer and it then would be on for 7 hours of the day and off the other 17 hours of the day and it was a cheap solution.  Thank you for your input Dave, I have attached a couple of screen shots, hope this is what you referred to. I have been THINKING about my actual goal here...I have a specific HP computer running W7 for the purpose of inputting stuff into a business program and some Word document processing, with no email or internet requirements. I have another HP with W7 sitting right beside it that I use for email and Internet plus another business program. Thing is, I have the occasional need to shift files between these two computers, this I am laboriously doing with a USB thumb drive - moving it between them.. Would a simpler operation be to wire the two computers together with a cable somehow to allow connection? Not a super whizz on this stuff, but is this a suitable solution? It is sounding a little complicated going down the road of my previous request. Sorry to be a nuisance, would this be a simpler solution and is this a novice achievable task?

So I have 2 systems that are connected to an IPv6 setup router. For an older game UT99 for local network play which only supports IPv4, I set both systems to static IP Addresses under the IPv4 configuration of the network adapters. There is a setting for IPv4 and IPv6.

So with IPv4 configured the local game play for hosting UT99 works no PROBLEMS. I set the IPv4 to 192.168.55.10 and 192.168.55.11 for the 2 computers. And on the one computer I without thinking went to my browser and it was working and I was like.... how am I getting out to the web when i just set these to static IP's with no gateway? It appears that the network adapter can have a dual configuration that i was not aware could be done where the IPv6 STILL was serving up a connection so that you could surf the internet as well as play the game locally on a different network IP. My IPv6 network addresses resolve to 192.168.0.100 with subnet of 255.255.255.0 and gateway of 192.168.0.1

At first I thought this is really cool because I can set IPv4 for the local game needs and set IPv6 to obtain a dynamic IP from DHCP lease and never have to mess in there again with switching back and forth. But when I went surfing the web it seems as though some websites had no problem with this setup and others werent happy with this. Facebook, Yahoo, Google, and Youtube had no problems with this setup however Steam said I was offline and when going to a bank website it acted as if i was offline.

So I thought ok what HAPPENS if I flush my DNS Cache maybe its working because DNS Cache has some stuff stored and so I flushed my DNS Cache and then tried again and same result i can get to some websites and they worked without any problems yet Steam said I was offline and the bank website wouldnt even show the home page for the bank.

So I flushed the DNS cache and rebooted the computer in case somehow its cached elsewhere and upon bringing it back up still same results. So I am confused how some sites work fine and others dont when I am pretty sure I wiped the DNS cache so it must not be using that.

Its almost as if some websites and software that connects over the network is working through IPv6 and others that see IPv4 connection with no gateway are getting roadblocked by the IPv4 configuration. 

I took networking like 20 years ago in college and I thought IPv4 and IPv6 was you have a network adapter set up as one or the other and not both. I have seen before virtual connections where a network adapter can simulate a virtual network connection through a single NIC but I dont see that happening here or if it is not sure where to find that. Usually you would see that when you perform IPCONFIG/ALL.

It would be cool if I could set a rule for IPv4 to work for local lan gaming and everything else use IPv6 connection, but it seems like some stuff is still using the IPv6 and some stuff is trying to use the IPv4 and not sure where to control that.

Lastly I tried this with a Windows 7 64-bit system as well as my Windows 10 64-bit system. Initially I was on my Windows 10 system and thought maybe its a feature of 10 that is allowing for this oddity, so then I turned on my Windows 7 system and set it up the same and got the same results, so the ability to i guess have IPv4 and IPv6 running side by side on a single network adapter goes back as far as at least Windows 7 which I never knew.

When wanting to have 2 network connections of different networks I have always run dual network adapters and had one set to obtain for IPv4 and the other with a static IP address on its own network also IPv4. My brother gave me his old router which was set up for IPv6 and I never went in and reconfigured it because he too has Vonage and no other port forwards etc so I was able to drop it into place and use it without configuring it. I have for years used IPv4 up until this router which replaced my cooked DLink.

Had some more time to dig around on this and found that IPv4 and IPv6 can co-exist, and I guess it can be troublesome to get it to work properly. And figured out how its working and not working. Looks like IPv6 still set as obtain automatic an IP address is where most traffic resolves through but Steam and the Banks website are acting as if I am offline because it must be preferring the IPv4 network which has no gateway. 

Going to have to figure out how to point a URL to use IPv6 vs IPv4 I guess for Steam and the Bank and any others that show up as connection issues.

http://www.zdnet.com/article/five-ways-for-ipv6-and-ipv4-to-peacefully-co-exist/
Quote

With Dual-IP stacks, your computers, routers, switches, and other devices run both protocols, but IPv6 will be the preferred protocol. A common procedure is to start by enabling both TCP/IP protocol stacks on the wide area network (WAN) core routers, then perimeter routers and firewalls, followed by your data-center routers and finally the desktop access routers. As the public Internet transitions to IPv6, your network administrators may need to deploy dual-stack capable switches on your; edges earlier.

The upside of this approach is that Dual-IP stacks are supported by all the major operating system and network vendors. The downside is that most legacy networking hardware and servers don't support IPv6. This can lead to such problems as dual-stack edge switches running into DNS (Domain Name Server) problems while users are trying to get to various Internet sites. In addition, many versions of Internet applications, even such commonplace ones as File Transfer Protocol (FTP), won't work with IPv6.

echo off
echo Choose:
echo [A] Set Static IP
echo Set DHCP
echo.
:choice
SET /P C=[A,B]?
for %%? in (A) do if /I "%C%"=="%%?" goto A
for %%? in (B) do if /I "%C%"=="%%?" goto B
goto choice
:A
echo off
echo "Please enter Static IP Address Information"
echo "Static IP Address:"
set /p IP_Addr=192.168.55.11

echo "Default Gateway:"
set /p D_Gate=192.168.55.1

echo "Subnet Mask:"
set /p Sub_Mask=255.255.255.0

echo "Setting Static IP Information"
netsh interface ip set address "LAN" static %IP_Addr% %Sub_Mask% %D_Gate% 1
netsh int ip show config
pause
goto end

:B
ECHO OFF
ECHO Resetting IP Address and Subnet Mask For DHCP
netsh int ip set address name = "LAN" source = dhcp

ipconfig /renew

ECHO Here are the new settings for %computername%:
netsh int ip show config

pause
goto end
:end

netsh interface ip set address "LAN" static %IP_addr% %Sub_Mask% %D_Gate% 1

REM DHCP
ECHO OFF
ECHO Resetting IP Address and Subnet Mask For DHCP
netsh int ipv4 set address name = "LAN" source = dhcp

ipconfig /renew

ECHO Here are the new settings for %computername%:
netsh int ipv4 show config

pause

REM STATIC 192.168.55.x
echo off
netsh interface ipv4 set address name=LAN source=static address=192.168.55.11 mask=255.255.255.0 gateway=192.168.55.1
ipconfig/all
pause

Hey everyone, I recently used an old computer for a NAS server in my garage. I have another high performance PC that I connect it to for data Transfers. On my main PC I'm using a 1 Gigabit Realtek Ethernet card, so no issue there. I'm using a Cat 6 ethernet cable to link the two together. However, the NAS server has a 10/100 ethernet card. I'm not sure if it is somehow "stuck" there or something. This  Old computer has general networking issues as well. For example, I tried to use a wifi card to supply internet over the ethernet port to supply internet to my main pc, but for the life of me could not get it to work. What should I do?My knowledge is limited, but I would guess that you need to start over again with your network installation. 

What is the make and model of that "old" PC?  What OS? Windows XP SP3 ?
Some network protocols have changed in the past few years, so you may need to update  the OS on the "old" PC. In particular, the XP OS, at one time, had a serious problem with a standard protocol that had to be updated. But I can not guess if that is your problem because you gave not details of the "old" PC.

For what it is worth, there is a cumulative update for XP SP3 available outside of Microsoft. It is the Unofficial SP4 thing.
http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/windows_xp_service_pack_4_unofficial.html
You first must have a clean install of SP3 before you even try it.  The model is an originally windows vista desktop that I came across, the faceplate was gone so no model, however it is an hp. I instantly put windows 7 ultimate on there with SP1. When I said i5 was old I was referencing the hard ware. I’m not sure if the board’s network limitations though...Just a heads up that running a PC only as a NAS gets costly. The electric bill on running a computer 24/7 that draws 100 watts in my area is 43 cents a day. I had a server that was for NAS and running my Database and I moved it ONTO an old single-core Sempron 3300+ LAPTOP because the laptop drew 17.2 watts idle with display off with cover closed as measured by my Kill-A-Watt measuring device. The laptop costs me 8 cents a day to run it as a DB Server and NAS. I have better faster dual and quadcore laptops available, but those draw 45 watts to 65 watts continuous.

Now for the 10mbps issue it can be wrong driver used, or cable issue. I have seen network adapters with issues with a cable sync at 10mbps where 100mbps was unstable. Or if you have a switch or hub between them that is 10mbps it will force a bottleneck.

Wireless speeds depend on how good the signal is. For example I can get 54mbps if I have a strong signal on my wireless but if I only have 2 bars then it synch's at around a 12mbps.

If you can, I would go with CAT5e or CAT6 connected for all important and connections you want to keep secure in your home. Only go wireless if you have good quality signal of 3 bars or stronger, on a 5 bar scale, from locations that you need to use the devices in.

Lastly, a garage may be subject to humidity and weak temperature control which can destroy the computers components and circuitry.

Years ago I made a cabinet and had a PC located inside it and I wired up a home thermostat in it for a hot and cool cycle to maintain a constant 70 F inside the cabinet. As a heat source other than the PC itself which created heat I had a 100 watt light bulb which would heat the area inside the insulated cabinet to maintain pretty close to 70F even in the heart of winter with this cabinet out in my shed behind my mobile home. This was before cloud storage became available. When I got my Google Drive for 15GB of free offsite storage, I shutdown this cabinet and retired the old computer that was racking up an electric bill.

Humidity was still a problem though as I thought keeping a constant temperature inside would avoid that as an issue but the case and main board after 3 years of use were CORRODED inside with solder legs with white chalky lead oxide and the computer case had rust on the bare metal surface inside very lightly.

There are better solutions out there than running a PC as a NAS these days. A Desktop PC as a NAS really only makes sense if the system is doing more than NAS such as mine which runs a database so its multipurpose, yet I chose the low power demand of an older laptop with a low power consumption processor.

Years ago I was using FreeNAS for my NAS and not a Windows Share. http://www.freenas.org/

Because I am using my laptop as a database server and storage, and its isolated on a private network, and the laptop only has 512MB RAM I am using Windows XP SP3 to which there is only about 20MB of memory free, but it serves its purpose without any troubles. Not the fastest laptop out there, some scripts I run server side take a few minutes to complete, whereas on a modern computer it would be done in like 10 seconds or less, but I multitask so I tell it to run a script and then I do something else and come back to it when its completed so no wasted productivity.Thanks DaveLembke for your response, but as of right now, all I really use my NAS for is when I go into the Garage to work on my PC's. I'm still in school and I live with my parents, and they don't want my computer projects in the house. I can't really do this any other way. However, I do take care of them, I clean them monthly, every little piece to make sure they don't corrode. It's currently a peer-to-peer connection, and if I can't find a solution, I can be happy at 10Mbps because I just use it to store my OS files, as well as my pictures, movies, etc. It's not running full time was you would expect a NAS server to, and I don't want to use FreeNAS as I do like the functionality of windows. As for the electricity bill, my parents are fully aware of this and have ABSOLUTELY no problem with me running them overnight should I want to. Have a great day!One thing to verify would be the properties in device manager for  the 10/100 adapter. Under the "Advanced" tab there are options which include forcing specific modes. It may be that somehow it got "forced" to 10 and therefore won't negotiate 100mbps ethernet.

And of course remember that megabits are 8 times smaller than megabytes. Mb suggests you are talking about BITS but 100mbps would be about 12.5MB/s so if you are speaking of Megabytes than that is typical for a 100mbps connection.

BC_Programmer I wish I would've known about the Megabits being 8 times smaller. I had no idea, because the max I can ever get over my connection is 12.5MB/s! That makes sense, thanks!

HP Pavilion dv6 with Intel i7 CHIP and Centrino Wireless-N 1000 network adapter.

It does have the NIC inside the laptop case (I checked, including connections)

I checked Device Manager and that adapter is not listed. Btw, other adapters, i.e. Bluetooth, do show up.

I connected computer using a LAN cable and it worked (it needed to install some controller though) but I need to use WiFi instead.

I figure it has something to do with the drivers, but maybe it is a DIFFERENT problem altogether.

Any tips?Not in device manager? Was it EVER?

Just get an external adapter that goes into a USB slot.
These are now sold everywhere. TRY Walmart.
You can buy one under $10 that works ALMOST the same as the high price models.
what's recently happened to lose the wifi adapter driver?
Windows upgrade or update?

2 choices.
 visit the HP website and download the drivers for your laptop make/model, that wifi card and for your Windows version.
or
 get a USB wifi adapter for about $AUD20 if all else fails.  (been there, done that)Mark,

Now that you mention it, I did a rollback to Windows 7 (the original OS) since I needed to delete everything in the computer AND I do not like Windows 10 (the previous owner had upgraded).

I used the copy in the recovery partition. I am not sure if the WiFi adapter was working before, but I do know that the previous owner had the computer connected to the Internet with a LAN cable. I do not know whether that affected the drivers or to what extent, but I think it is unlikely. Maybe the computer was already presenting some issues since I got it for free.Geek-9pm

I figure that's the last resort.

hello,

First of all i want to thank you for taking the time to read my topic 

I have started a project for school. Im building a Exchange 2013 environment.
I did some configuration's and now i want to test the mail. I can mail Internal but not external.
when i go to testconnectivity.microsoft.com and try test inbound SMTP mail flow, it fails.
Its giving me the message : relay acces denied.
If been troubleshooting/searching for 2 days now. i cant FIGURE it out. please can someone HELP me fix this problem?

Here the full error details:

Attempting to send a test email message to [email protected] using MX fuzeice.nl.
    Delivery of the test email message failed.
    
   Additional Details:
    
The server returned status code 454 - Client does not have permission to submit mail to this server. The server response was: 4.7.1 <[email protected]>: Relay access denied
Exception details:
Message: Client does not have permission to submit mail to this server. The server response was: 4.7.1 <[email protected]>: Relay access denied
Type: System.Net.Mail.SmtpException
Stack trace:
at System.Net.Mail.RecipientCommand.CheckR esponse(SmtpStatusCode statusCode, String response)
at System.Net.Mail.RecipientCommand.Send(SmtpConnection conn, String to, String& response)
at System.Net.Mail.SmtpTransport.SendMail(MailAddress SENDER, MailAddressCollection recipients, String deliveryNotify, Boolean allowUnicode, SmtpFailedRecipientException& exception)
at System.Net.Mail.SmtpClient.Send(MailMessage message)
at Microsoft.Exchange.Tools.ExRca.Tests.Sm tpMessageTest.PerformTestReally()
Elapsed Time: 981 ms.



Again thanks for READING this.

I hope some can help me soon. Client does not have permission to submit mail to this server

Relay access denied

Permissions issue is the first issue to clear up. Perhaps a password mismatch?

Since this is a school project, can the teacher of the course be of assistance?E-mail servers don't typically allow remote relay by default.

For Exchange you need to create a new Receive CONNECTOR that allows anonymous relay.
Source