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I have 2x ASUS ROUTER and was wondering which was BETTER to set up for my HOME NETWORK?

ASUS RT-AC1200G+

Or

ASUS RT-AC58U

how data can sends and RECEIVES in CORRECT node at BUS and RING topology.. ?? Ip Address or TOKEN..?? Both are same or different..??

Hello,

I apologize in advance if I'm missing any information--I'm not very familiar with computers and even less familiar with Windows. Through my work, I've been issued a laptop running Windows 7. Some days, it works perfectly fine, but on others, certain websites will refuse to load (I've specifically noticed that I cannot access my organization's website). There is no error message or timeout, the page just won't load. This happens for no apparent reason. I've tried most fixes you can find online easily (using different browsers, clearing the cache and COOKIES, using a different DNS server address) but nothing has worked so FAR. Any ideas on what I can do to fix this? Again, when I start my computer up each morning, sometimes it works perfectly, and other times it doesn't.

Update: It looks like it may be something with the Internet connection? If I switch from my work's employee Internet to the guest Internet and then resrart my laptop, the websites will load.being a company laptop, is it possible the IT department as 'locked down' some things to stop employees doing certain things?Mark,

I don't believe so. We are a small organization, and only have external IT support. They looked over the laptop before it was issued to me, and no other employees are having the same issue I am. I pinged the websites I'm having trouble with and there wasn't any issue with the connection.After making a reasonable effort to fix the problem, it  is now the time to use your warranty and ASK the vendor for a replacement.
unlikely a warranty job (at this point).
can you explain further what you mean by 'employee internet' and 'guest internet'?so you take this laptop home and plug it into your home internet network how - wireless, ethernet cable?
what AV software is on it?
Yes, so at work, we have two networks: our internal employee network, and a guest network. I don't typically take my laptop home with me, and haven't tried it on my home internet.

As far as AV software, I have Trend Micro Security Agent anti-spyware, and Windows firewall is turned on.When this occurs, are you able to access any website at all? What Internet browser are you using? Is anyone else having the same problem when trying to access the company website at the same time as you? How many computers are there at your job?Yes, I can still access the majority of websites, just not a select few (I always notice it when it happens because it won't allow me to connect to my organization's website). I'm using Chrome, but I've tried it with Internet Explorer and still had the same issue. No ONE else is having this issue--it's just this laptop. We have approximately 30 computers, but some are desktops and others are laptops.I would do an "ipconfig /all" and check out my DNS servers.

I have experienced a similar problem when using IPv6 DNS servers.

You can try disabling IPv6 for that adapter ("Network and Sharing Center" > "Change Adapter Settings" > right-click on the connection you're using > "Properties" > click the check box next to "Internet PROTOCOL Version 6") You might need administrative privileges to make this change.

Hi

I really need your help! Seems I have been hacked.

I have recently purchased a new laptop due to this(old one needed replacing anyways) and a router. So, I need to get this all done right, or I it will have all been in vain.

My questions are the following:
1. Is it enough to get a new PC and router to make sure eth is clean? I have ADSL as far as I know. Someone told me I could get a VPN to make sure as the network can be tampered with in other ways. ( I have no idea how. All that COMES to mind are the cables and the phone when I think of my connection).
Would a VPN cover me completely if the network has been tampered with in any way?

2. ANOTHER important Q is: If I don't have a different network and share a router with someone at home, is there anyway of making the shared router and my laptop secure from other devices also using said router?

A guest option you mentioned could be a solution? Can this possibly work for a connection via cable to the router also(for devices that aren;t mine and could possibly be infected), not just wifi? To make a guest option on my router for both wifi and cable connection to router from devices I don't personally use? By this guest option I would separate myself from other devices I don't use?

If not possible, can I have TWO routers on the same network(same IP address?) And would that work to KEEP my router and laptop secure or does sharing the same network impose a security risk anyways?

I assume each router would have their own passwords? Or is this only possible if they have different IPs?

Could a VPN possibly cover the dangers of a shared router?


FINALLY, is there ath else I should do to ensure a safe everything?


I really need this done ASAP! I;d be forever grateful for your help.

do i need to worry about changing desktop pc network adapter?

still trying to self-educate about whole network/router/modem dynamics....so forgive if i ask stupid question(s)....

current setup:
spectrum broadband into house....
...to cable/phone modem....
...to netgear WNDR3700 dual band N600 wireless....
...only wired OUTPUT (ethernet cable?...not sure of name) to Dell XPS 8700 Windows 7 Pro i7 64bit with Dell Wireless 1703 802.11b/g/n 2.4 GHz (card? adapter?)
...all other connections to router are wireless (tv, wii, ps4, printer, phones, etc).

If i upgrade to LINKSYS Tri-Band AC4000 or AC5400, to take advantage of 5.0 ac connectivity, do i need to update my desktop network adapter (if that's what it's called).  I'm not sure if it's an adapter on the motherboard (i think it might be), and if so, is it advisable for speed purposes, to try to swap it out for a card that can handle ac (if i can even swap/remove it from motherboard for a newer one), or do i just try to do one of those usb dongle adapters (no idea of how those work....seems like they wouldn't be as fast as something directly hardwired into my pc).  i think i do have usb 3.0, if that matters.

or is that even a concern, given that my desktop pc is directly connected to the router by an ethernet cable?  part of me is thinking that i WOULD be getting my internet directly in/out from the cable modem via the new router....i guess it would be acting as nothing more than a powered switch, so to speak, so do i even need to worry if my pc can or can't handle 5.0ghz or ac, because it's not like i have my pc receiving data from the router wirelessly, so maybe it's all irrelevant?

FAST INTERNET.....
"EVERYBODY WANTS SOME....I WANT SOME TOO....OWW!!!"   ~dave lee rothIf your desktop PC's Ethernet connector is connected to the router directly by Ethernet cable, and that is the connection you are using, then you already have the fastest possible connection, and you do not need to even think about that desktop PC's wi-fi adapter.
Given your on Windows XP according to your profile, just make sure the router is configured for IPv4 and not IPv6. IPv6 support was added with Service Pack 2 for XP, but I have seen some odd issues with XP and IPv6. There is no need to go with IPv6 and most peoples home networks and even websites still run on IPv4.

So if your looking in the new routers settings and it has a choice for IPv4 or IPv6, stick with IPv4 and you should be all set.

There is very little ( unnoticeable to most users ) speed difference between older routers and newer routers. Its mostly a difference in security, features, and newer protocols for routers. A healthy 10 year old router and a band new router connected via broadband running www.speedtest.net should come up with just about identical benchmark for upload/download speeds for broadband speeds that are 100mbps or lesser. If your lucky enough to have a faster than 100mbps broadband connection then you would need a router that is rated for gigabit connectivity to have 1000mbps support, otherwise the older 100mbps router would act like a bottleneck to speed potential capping you at lesser than 100mbps.

Only bottleneck of your PC with a faster router would be if you had a better than 100mbps broadband package and your network adapter in the computer only has a 100mbps NIC. Easy fix for this would be to install a Gigabit ( 1000mbps ) network adapter and use that to get greater than a 100mbps connection. However a computer even if bottlenecked at 100mbps for internet speed would still bs very fast. And depending on age of the computer, the computer itself might not even be capable of tapping into the full potential of the fast internet connection due to a slow hard drive and/or processor.

I have a 25/5 package for my broadband and that's not bad for most internet users for multiple systems STREAMING content etc. Even if the computer only had a 100mbps network adapter, it would be able to connect up to 4x faster than what I have for internet which is more than plenty for most people. So buying a Gigabit network adapter to have 1000mbps for an older computer that is otherwise 100mbps might not be worth the upgrade, however the upgrade to Gigabit 1000mbps can be ACHIEVED for less that $20 doing it yourself.

salmon & lembke - thank you both very much for responses.

mr. lembke - sorry, i had old profile.  fixed now.  (XP...lol....dang, i'm not a troglodyte....at least not yet)

if i'm understanding correctly - i have more than one adapter in my desktop (see attachment)...the dell wireless adapter is if i wanted to hook my pc up wirelessly (which i don't), and the Realtek PCI GBE family controller is the network Adapter used for hardwired circumstances (which is how i'm hooked up, via an ethernet cable to my router).  i think the Realtek is a 10/100/1000 adapter, so my pc will always be capable of up to 1GBs download as long as i'm not on wireless.  if i'm on wireless, then my pc would only be capable of the b/g/n 2.4ghz max, correct?

if my card or adapter should be fast enough already, then i should be good to go with whatever speeds are available now or near future (several providers already wiring fiber around town, although not in my neighborhood yet), which means for right now the only thing i need to do is swap out my old router for the faster tri-band router i've been eyeballing...everything else should then be maximum speeds possible, yes? (of course depending upon remote device capability of receiving 5ghz ac, i presume)


Quote from: Chuckster on May 19, 2018, 08:52:50 AM

i think the Realtek is a 10/100/1000 adapter, so my pc will always be capable of up to 1GBs download as long as i'm not on wireless.  if i'm on wireless, then my pc would only be capable of the b/g/n 2.4ghz max, correct?

Hello. I hope someone can help me. I have a laptop that only has 512GB SSD. I have been told by HP that there is no option to convert to a HD.  Larger SSD drive with m.2 form factors are expensive so I'm trying to find some less expensive options. I have been using an external but it is too cumbersome to work with unless I am at a desk. I am a photography and use PHOTOSHOP a lot so I want to be able to access 500gb of photos. Since the external drive is not working out and a HD is out of the question, I need to explore home networking option. I want to be able to access and upload files as large as about 40-50MB (photos) at home and away from home. I've tried googling but I can't determine which is the best option for what I want to do. What are my options? I don't need anything really fancy as I can always upgrade later. I really need a workable solution that will not be too difficult or time consuming when accessing files. Thank you in advance for all of your help.I use Google Drive for 15GB cloud storage that allows me for free to work on the road on stuff. 15GB might only be a drop in the bucket as you need in excess of 500GB, but I am thinking that you can update this 15GB space with  a project your working on and when done download it to a external hard drive and then upload the next work to be worked on to google drive for up to 15GB of data for free.

Other option is to buy into cloud storage where you can get as much space as you want but the greater capacity the more the monthly fee.

I am SURPRISED that your laptop cant be given a hard drive in place of the SSD. Never heard of this before. Its not like its a Chromebook with only 32GB of onboard storage which is not able to TAKE a Hard Drive or SSD upgrade.

What make/model laptop do you have so we can double check on this so called cant upgrade to large HDD?

Other alternative for storage is to have a NAS ( Network Attached Storage ). This acts like cloud storage but there is no fee beyond that of buying and setting up the NAS. The NAS connects to your network and then you mount a drive mapping to the NAS where your system then gets a drive letter of your choice such as X:  . NAS solutions with drives are usually a couple hundred dollars for the good ones. Only thing to be aware of with NAS's is that their core operating system that makes them function as a NAS is based on a Linux kernel and so the drives in the NAS are sometimes XFS file system. These drives in the NAS with XFS file system if the NAS failed and you need your data off of the drive(s), you would need to install the drives into a computer running Linux to address the XFS file system and then hopefully get your data back. SO external hard drives CONNECTED via USB are better in that if the external drive fails its usually using the NTFS file system so you can install the drive internal to a desktop computer and access the data that is on it EASILY, as long as no encryption used and drive is healthy.Thank you for your response.

My laptop is a HP Spectre x360 Convertible 15-bl1XX. I would appreciate anything that you can find out.

The Google Drive would cool for working on files within a project but it is preferable to access to all the files without having to stop and connect the external hard drive.

I'm not totally against the idea of a NAS. I had previously read up on NAS, one of the cons listed is "In case of failure it may prove difficult to recover the data without professional data recovery service". It makes me nervous but I guess I could soften the blow by doing daily backups. Are the backups from NAS drives to a backup drive on Linux file system? Any feedback regarding my concern about a NAS is welcomed.


If you copy from XFS NAS file system files to a NTFS File system, the files copied to NTFS are NTFS file system. Files copied from NTFS file system to NAS would be stored under XFS which is tricky to get access to your data if you crash the NAS it then involved Linux usually to regain access to the data.What is your budget?  What do you consider as too expensive? 

You might try looking into a wireless external drive.  With a wireless external drive, you don't need to connect/reconnect a cable, the computer connects to the drive via wifi.  Depending on how much you want to spend, there are 250GB, 500GB, 1TB and larger drives available.

Hi, i need help. I have problem with wifi setting and i am really stucked. I have a table computer which is connected with LAN and the internet works just fine but i would like a wifi in my office. So i went and BOUGHT a router (tplink) and tried to connect it. I connected my LAN cable to the router and one extra cable from router to the computer. So here i got stucked. The ethernet on the computer was fine but the wifi although the signal was full and i was able to connect to it from my devices (mobiles, tablets) THE INTERNET DID NOT WORK. I could not get any pages to load. I would really appreciate any help. Thank you in advanceg'day Linda,

first up, what is the make/model of the TP-Link router?
next, do you want your PC to be wireless or just have wifi capability in the house for others?

if your PC doesn't need to be wifi, leave it connected via the ethernet cable to the original modem as it was.
since you mention other wireless capable devices in the house are connecting to the internet then the new router must be configured OK.
I assume you logged ONTO its configuration menu via a browser and set that up (?).

as to cabling, there will be an ethernet cable to connect the router to the modem and another to connect your PC to the router (if you want to stay hard wired).
when you bought the new router, they usually come with a nice little diagram on on to do that.
if you want to go wireless, your PC will either need a wifi adpater (either an internal card or a USB wifi stick) or if it already has one, it'll need to be setup to join the new wireless network.If your computer is connected to the router and the router to modem (it is isn't it?) and you have set the router up it should be good to go. Log into the site as stated and see if your are connected to the internet. Full bars does not mean internet. It means your are well withing range of the router (wireless network) which is more than just makie the internet go. I would recommend you call your ISP. There is a specific way to hook up two routers in a local network. Some makers do not even recommend it because of the details that frustrate home users.

The preferred method fro a home user is to have jut one router that does everything,  The best way to get this it\s to ask your provider for a unit that does it all.

Otherwise, you will spend a day or two learning the ins and outs of how routers work. If you want to, there are well-qualified people here that can walk you through the steps. You have to PROVIDE make and model of all the things tallyho are using.

Wait. He is trying to connect two routers? Why? Other setting one in bridge MODE and use it as sort of a repeater. whoa, where does Linda SAY she is trying to connect 2 routers together?
let's just hold our horse and wait for some feedback from the OP.

Need some experienced feedback.

Recently I noticed some "quirks" with the quality of my network. Netflix signal would degrade or stop all together, frequent disconnects from streaming and gaming services on my PC. Called Comcast and they said NOTHING to worry about. I remained doubtful.

My networking knowledge is very limited but IM trying to learn more. so I mapped my network and then removed all wireless devices from it. Phones tablets etc The only thing left connected is my Ethernet connected PC. but when I run a "arp -a" from the commandline it shows 2 different internet addresses both with the same physical address. Both are dynamic. One of these is my PC, the other internet address shows FALLS Church Virginia. I have reset my modem, changed the name & password of my home network, changed the name of my ethernet connection and yet this internet address remains. Is there any reason for this? Comcast said they only saw my ip address as the one connected to the internet. it was my understanding that if there is only one device connected to the network there should only be 1 dynamic ip address showing up.

Why is this other dynamic address there? What could it reference? my modem? my router? Any help or just a point in the right direction would be much appreciated. THANKS. This is what I am seeing....

$ arp -a
.
Interface: 192.168.0.116 --- 0x8
Internet Address ..... Physical Address........Type

20.20.20.1 ...............00-1c-c0-6e-07-cb ...... dynamic
192.168.0.119 ..........00-1c-c0-6e-07-cb .......dynamic
192.168.1.255 ..........ff--ff-ff-ff-ff-ff...................static
.
.
My pc is the second dynamic address, why is that first one showing up if it is not a device that connected to my network ? 20.20.20.1 is a multicast address and isn't routable. It will usually be spoofed by routers but depending on how you connect them to the network a PC may determine that it should do so.========================
The IP address 20.20.20.1 was found in Falls Church, Virginia, United States. It is allocated to Computer Sciences Corporation. Additional IP location information, as well as network TOOLS are available below.
IP address:   20.20.20.1
ISP:    Computer Sciences Corporation
City:    Falls Church
Region:    Virginia
Country:    United States (US) flag
Postal code:    22042
Area code:    703
Metro code:    511
latitude:    38.864
longitude:    -77.1922
traceroute
check latency
whois
BGP routing info
blacklist check

20.20.20.1 Location Map

20.20.20.1
lat: 38.864
lon: -77.1922

Notes:
Computers connected to a network are assigned a unique number known as Internet Protocol (IP) Address.
IP (version 4) addresses consist of four numbers in the range 0-255 separated by periods (i.e. 127.0.0.1).
A computer may have either a permanent (static) IP address, or one that is dynamically assigned/leased to it.

Most IP addresses can be mapped to host/domain names (i.e. www.speedguide.net).
Resolution between domain names and IP addresses is handled by Domain Name Servers (DNS).
======================
The above is from:
https://www.speedguide.net/ip/20.20.20.1
I think this is not accurate.   

Hello, so here's the story...

Last night I was using windscribe VPN. I disconnected, and then lost connection altogether.

Network TROUBLESHOOTER originally said network admin disabled TEREDO tunnel pesudo adapter. I reinstalled and it seemed okay.
NEXT it said IP was not configured properly, so I went into ipv4 and ipv6 and set them to automatically find IP.
NOW it says "Your computer appears to be correctly configured, but the device or resource (www.microsoft.com) is not responding" or google.com, whatever I tell it to try to connect to.

If I go into CMD and try to ping a website, I get 100% packetloss. If I try to ping my router, it works fine. If I try to ping other devices on my network, it seems to work okay?

If I boot my computer using a Linux USB the internet connects okay -> no problems.

I've tried all the usual commands, resting winsock, ip, ip relase, ip renew, etc. I've reset modem and router. I've downgraded, updated, reinstalled network adapter.. Nothing seems to work. I think there is a setting somewhere blocking internet for windows?

Here's the results if my ipconfig /all

Code: [Select]C:\Windows\system32>ipconfig /all

Windows IP Configuration

   Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : COLOSSUS
   Primary Dns Suffix  . . . . . . . :
   Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
   IP Routing ENABLED. . . . . . . . : No
   WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection 2:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Intel(R) 82579V Gigabit Network Connectio
n
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 4C-72-B9-26-50-96
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::389e:e06d:6ba4:b482%15(Preferred)
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.107(Preferred)
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Tuesday, May 15, 2018 11:39:44 AM
   Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Wednesday, May 16, 2018 11:39:44 AM
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
   DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
   DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 306999993
   DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-1F-40-84-52-A0-63-91-82-BE-11

   DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Tunnel adapter isatap.{2B96544C-7722-405D-8786-2783133C7273}:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Any help?

I recently BUILT my first computer and it turned on just fine, but when I plugged in my Ethernet cable, my computer didn't recognize it.

I tried INSTALLING Network Connections drivers, but it gave me an error message: "Cannot install drivers. No Intel(R) Adapters are present in this computer"
Where can I find these adapters?

I've never had this problem before, so I'm not sure what to do... Any help would be APPRECIATED.You said:
Quote

I've never had this problem before, so I'm not sure what to do... Any help would be appreciated.

hey, there

I want to bridge my two routers (Netgear Nighthawk and Comcast XFINITY). I wish to increase the range of my router but the problem is I don't know how to login into the router setting ?

Help needed!!the router to log on to needs to be connected to your PC, ethernet or wireless.
then find its IP address by starting a command prompt and typing IPCONFIG, its IP is the field called Default Gateway.
enter that into a browser and you'll be in the router configuration menu.You can try this:

http://192.168.0.1
or
http://192.168.1.1

but it might be:
http://192.168.0.254

But my router is
http://10.0.0.1

The information is in the user manual.

The comcast provided router they should be able to help you get into your router that they provided if your unable to figure it out. They might SEND a TECH to your site to do this vs give password over phone.

Bridging one router off of another via a hard wired or wireless connection bridge?

If wireless bridge you can run into PROBLEMS with two different routers. Bridging is best over wireless with two like model routers that were tested by manufacture to pair together and bridge.

You will need the password and hard wired cat5 or cat6 cable connection to both routers to configure each one.

Note: In my home I have 2 routers and I have a cat5e cable between them as the connection. The main router with wifi connects to broadband modem and then of the 4 ports available one of them runs 75 feet to another router with wifi and is plugged into the Internet Port. This is how I extended my wireless range by having 2 different wireless networks with all devices able to connect to one or the other depending on signal strength and both use different channels. Been running this way now for 5 years with no problems that way. I tried setting up a wireless bridge between my home and my barn with 50% signal strength and had all sorts of problems with mismatched brand routers. I then bought 2 of the same brand and was able to create a wireless bridge finally without problems to give internet to the barn where its partially finished with rooms with hard wired and wireless network as well.

Hi! newbie here. After reading so many posts and trying all those fixes, which didn't work, I'm posting my problem here and hoping that some expert here may have a concrete solution for my weird NIC disappearing issue.

The problem is my Realtek PCIe GBE FAMILY Controller is completely out of my control.
My system configuration - Windows 7 x64bit, Gigabyte motherboard, Intel cpu, 8 GB RAM, ONBOARD gpu, onboard LAN.
After a clean windows installation and then everything running good for few days, suddenly the internet connection is lost and Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller goes missing.
I go to the device manager and there I see 'Network Adapter' is entirely missing there. Then I check right side More Actions > View > Show Hidden DEVICES, and there I find the Network adapter but upon right clicking there is no options available. And if I expand it further there are all those WAN miniports but no Realtek PCie GBE Family Controller. Screenshot below-



No Realtek PCie GBE Family Controller there, a familiar nightmare for me nowadays.

What I've tried so far-

1. Trying to uninstall/install or disable/enable network adapter.
Wait! That's not POSSIBLE because my entire Realtek PCIe GBI controller is missing and NIC has no right click options under device manager.

2. Tried updating new version of Realtek LAN driver.
That's too not possible because it can not even find the Realtek PCIe GBI controller. So there's an error message popping everytime I tried to do so.

3. Tried to change the Network adapter setting from Network And Sharing center. But there is no 'Local Area Connection' present as you can guess. It's completely a blank window folder. Troubleshoot says it can't detect Network Adapter.

4. Rebooted and reset the router.
Yes! Network Adapter menus, Realtek controller is back again, but not for long. Within few hours it's gone again and I'm back with no internet connection.
Bytheway, this trick worked only the first time, next time there's no charm left.

5. Remove the power lines from cabinet and router and connect those next day.
Ok, here's the fun part. Sometimes, remember not always, one or two times happened this, that I get back the Realtek PCIe GBI controller under device manager but then so after I switched on the router NIC is gone missing again! Not for a second the internet connection established there.

6. Format and re-install windows 7!
Did that (couple of time already), worked just for 1 or 2 days max, then again back to the same space. NIC missing, tray network monitor like icon is red crossed.
One thing, before my NIC would go missing again I removed the tick from 'Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power' option and saved. But that didn't save me!

7. Pull out the CMOS, RAM sticks, wait for few hours. OK! NIC is back. Hoped that finally my problem is resolved.
Shoot me please - NIC is gone after a day.

Now you' may think my wireless D-link router is faulty, but this entire time I can access my internet through my wireless router in my phone but not in my desktop which is connected to router via RJ45 cable.
Try another WAN port in router? Yes but the Devil won again as my internet isn't back to me yet.

Maybe the RJ45 cable is faulty then!? CHANGED that too, but that didn't make NIC coming back from vacation.

If you're thinking some router configuration error then here is the settings from ipconfig-

Windows IP Configuration

   Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : Home-PC
   Primary Dns Suffix  . . . . . . . :
   Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
   IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
   WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : FC-AA-12-15-63-47
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::15c:78d1:c9ed:de3e%11(Preferred)
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.2(Preferred)
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Thursday, March 23, 2018 7:42:44 AM
   Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Friday, March 24, 2018 7:42:44 AM
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
   DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
   DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 251236576
   DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-44-31-16-1C-FC-AA-16-17-75-37

   DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
                                       192.168.0.1
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Tunnel adapter isatap.{7898FB4B-D531-4881-A952-170454A3D03E}:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

BIOS is up to date. Router is ok.
System is just 3 and half years old and router is 2 years old. System working fine except Network adapter.
No VPN software or any other network related software installed. Antivirus Avast free. On installed softwares- just some basic pdf reader, media player, dvd writer etc.
Computer is used basically for studying and a little bit of gaming (everything on cryosleep now) and there is no additional GPU installed, only the onborad default one there.

Then why dhell my NIC is acting this weirdly lately??? For the last 3 years and so it's perfectly working fine as it should be and then suddenly this started to happen to my computer.
Do anyone here have any theory, explanation or SOLUTION (you'r a rockstar if you've one) on this weird NIC problem??

Urgent need of HELP!! PLEASE!!![/b] Anyone??  the only concrete solution for me would be to get an add-on ethernet network card (or wireless adapter, either PCIx or USB) and use that. Quote from: Mark. on March 30, 2018, 07:25:46 PM

the only concrete solution for me would be to get an add-on ethernet network card (or wireless adapter, either PCIx or USB) and use that.

Screen says " Data network connection is not available. Mobil Hotspot/USB tethering needs VERIZON data network in ORDER to work."   I would assume there is no way to connect cell phone to internet thru computer?How is your internet connectivity currently set up?  Do you have a wireless router?  connect using wifi but is turned off.There are Android apps for trying various modes of tethering.
A windows PC can be made into a potshot Fort hat you would have to have internet via Ethernet and then plug a Wi-Fi USB adapter into your Windows PC.
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-turn-your-windows-10-pc-wireless-hotspot
Quote

Windows 10 includes a feature called "Hosted Network" that allows you to turn your computer into a wireless hotspot, and this guide we'll show you how to do it.

connect using wifi but is turned off.

It is just because of that switch which you used.You have to use routing switching protocols like BGP, OSPF, EIGRP, IGRP, ISIS, MPLS, STP,IP, FTTH network etc.Try to CONTACT ]network monitoring service PROVIDER [/URL] .

Hi, I'd really appreciate a pro advise please

THE PROBLEM
I've got WIRELESS internet at home 6MB speed (Uncapped, unshaped), I've got a teenager at home hogging my internet. There's NO other problem except her USING the majority of it, this matter is confirmed and there's no other possibilities as it was all inspected and confirmed. So my net speed from the ISP is perfect, my device is working perfectly, all is fine except that there's one person who doesn't wanna share.

WHAT I WANT
Is there software/or a way to monitor and CONTROL the amount of traffic that a SPECIFIC device/s gets? I want to give her a specific speed and not allow her to exceed it, this way it will be just fair.

Important note: I'm just a user so i'm no IT graduate, would really appreciate an easy to understand language .. and my O.S is Windows 10 Home. Thank you.
There is a good chance that you can limit bandwidth to specific devices in your router configuration.

Refer to your router manual for DETAILS about how to log in and change Administrative settings. If you don't have the manual, download it from your router manufacturer's website (or from your ISP, if the router is branded and provided by your ISP).

If you MAKE changes, also make sure to change the Administrative password on your router, so that your bandwidth-hogger can't log in and revert your changes using the default user/password combination.

I would like to connect my TV to the internet with a enternet cable but the TV dosn't have a enternet port. But it does have a some hdmi ports and a 3.0 USB port can I buy the adapter for USB or hdmi to connect it?not as simple as that....
would also depend on the TV's operating system and if drivers are available for whatever adapter you get.The simple way is to use a device like the ROKU. But-the TV set must have a video input of some kind.
About that USB port. Mostly likely is is only for showing photos, not video.
Here's an article that will help.
https://www.geek.com/tech/roku-stick-vs-google-chromecast-tiny-tv-titans-1586865/
Quote

Roku has the experience coming into the fight; the company has been in the streaming business since 2008, starting with set-top boxes and introducing the first Stick in 2012. Google followed suit with the Chromecast in 2013. Recently entering the fray is Amazon, the internet bookseller turned one-stop shop for pretty much EVERYTHING. Their hardware initiatives have been uneven (Kindle: great, Phone: not so much), but with a push for streaming video it only made sense for them to try and carve out a chunk of the TV marker.

Good day everyone!

I would like to ask if it's possible to disable the internet connection and still keep the network line.

I am planning to conduct a quiz to my students and I would like to disconnect the internet connection but I want to retain the printing functionality since our printer is wirelessly connected to the network. Our PCs are using WINDOWS 7 OS.

Please share the steps.

Thank you.The easiest way would be if you're able to just shut off the modem and leave the router running, but I'm guessing that isn't an OPTION in a standard school-sort-of-SETUP that I'm picturing.  I'm envisioning you in a classroom just using a big building's wifi.

Are they student-owned computers? Or do you run them? If you are the system administrator, you could edit the route file in Windows, which could hamstring the systems to just LAN.  It's kind of complicated to explain and time consuming to go around to all the computers and do, so I will only type out these instructions if that sounds like your preferred solution.

The easiest thing to do might actually be to get an old wifi router from a thrift store, they run about $5 or $10 now.  Reconnect your printer to that.  But I'm not sure how you'd know if a student briefly flipped back over to the wifi with internet.


the normal, home user, quick answer is Yes, just pull the phone line from the modem.
no internet but still full LAN services.

but in your case it sounds like the real QUESTION is "can I KILL the internet for just my classroom" and to that the answer is No.
at least not without getting the IT Dept all in a tither if you start bringing in your own hardware, setting up wifi networks, reconfiguring printers etc., then putting everything back the way it was.

if you describe your setup in more detail that may help.

Hi, when I was doing a scan with my av (Avast) on my wifi, it came back with a NAME on it that I don't know
how it got there. (See image).



The name Asha302 is mine. I haven't a CLUE where "Ian" has come from. I have got my printer connected
wireless through my router.

Is there a REASON for this to be happening?

RegardsThis is sorted now. CH have POINTED out what I'd missed, it says LAN (LAN). Oh my, I feel such a fool.don't sweat it, we've all been there - done that.
(but it does gladden the heart when you see someone else prove to be as human as yourself)

I have Windows 7 and use Firefox but mostly Chrome and Gmail. I have tried several "fixes" suggested by others on web searches and another forum website when my browsers will not connect, not only sometimes on startup but it happens sometimes as I am working on a browser and suddenly a page will not connect. My Internet is OK because my wife can be on her laptop not having problem one.

Here is something that will work to get it to connect. Simply RESTART my PC. Great, but I don't want to keep doing that!!
Now ...... all the COMMANDS, (tips I have tried), say to RESTART my computer. SO ......... how do I know if and what is causing my problem when the restart fixes it in the first place?
I tried safe mode but honestly......... I did not know MUCH about it.
Thanks in advance for help.Computer info like make/model or specs would help know what you have for a system.

Is this connected via cat5 cable or WIRELESS? ( Have you tried connecting via a wired cat5 cable instead if you have been using wireless to see if its related to the wireless NIC dropping out to where if the problem is gone when connected by a cat5 or cat6 cable and only happens when connected to wifi that would point you in a direction as to the CAUSE. ) * I have seen wireless problems before cause this with a wireless that comes and goes and the browser is left hanging.

Has this system ever been infected with malware or a virus and have you scanned recently for problems to know that the system is clean and healthy? * I have seen browser hijacker malware before cause problems like this.Try moving your router.  I experienced some disconnection from my wireless router with my tablet computer and found that placing the router on a higher surface in the room resulted in improved connectivity. I think you must check your DNS settingsFeel free to ignore the DNS suggestion above.

I'm running Windows 7 Pro, service pack 1, 64 bit on my desktop.  I was using a Netgear N150 Wireless USB adapter to connect to my home wifi NETWORK.  That stopped working, so I installed a TP-Link 300Mbps Wireless N PCI adapter (TL-WN851ND).  The TP adapter has never worked, but is still attached.  I know the Netgear adapter works, because I used it in my ROKU successfully.  I am currently connected to the internet using an ethernet cable connected directly to the router/modem.  At this point I have tried so many different ways to fix the problem, I have lost track of all the changes.  What steps can I take or settings can I CHECK on my computer to make sure I didn't change something for the ethernet that is different than what I need to connect with the TP-Link wirelessly?  I think the problem is with my computer, but I don't know how to check it.  Thanks for any suggestions.

Hello,

Xfinity just installed an amp to my network. Everything was working okay after the installation.

HOWEVER, several days after the installation, all my internet connections were lost. I reset my modem and router. I was able to regain my wireless connections (with one exception). However, all connections hard-wired via Cat5e are not working. On each machine (all Windows 7), the Ethernet connection indicates "Unidentified network, public network" and no network access.

After significant troubleshooting, I have found that this problem is isolated to the machines connected to the LAN via a switch. If I connect a machine directly to the router, I have connectivity as expected. However, everything through the switch is problematic.

I am able to connect WIRELESSLY through all machines except my PRIMARY computer. On this computer, the wireless network shows a connection to the Home network and strong signal strength but every time I try to access the internet, I receive a time-out. I have disabled the firewall and antivirus and the problem hasn't resolved. I would guess this is a different issue than the switch issue, though each happened at the same time. Regarding the primary computer, I have reinstalled the wireless driver and STILL the problem exists.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

It is strangle a LOT, I expect someone can help me to solve this.

If I turn off my desktop PC, 'iphone user' gets MAD, because that user loses something ( maybe ethernet, maybe app stop working... I dont know ).

Iphone user have diffrend network, atleast diffrend ROUTER, but perhaps(not sure) the same anthena is being used.
However my router have 'non default username and password', password set and ACCESS rules exist.

Is this possible that 'iphone user' somehow steals my ethernet? As I got alot complaints about my ping in gaming servers?
certainly as a starting point, I would be changing the log password to the modem/router, and the wireless password to something not easily guessed.

Hi,
If I use the program for remote administration to connect via the Internet to another PC.
Will this be seen by who I'm connecting to?
Thanks!

Yes.  With Remote Desktop, only 1 person can be in control of the PC at a time. Quote

Yes.  With Remote Desktop, only 1 person can be in control of the PC at a time.

How I can hide icon in the tray?

But the initial screenshot with Beginner Hacking shortcuts and folders is probably a good indication as to why. 

Why do you need to do this?

I want to control my child, wife and staff in the office)

so the staff PC's are in the same building, that is, on the same network, and the wife and child's are at another location and accessible via the internet?

and if this level of intrusion and control is also required on family members, mate - you have bigger problems. 

My router was working fine and I had no problems with my internet connection this morning, Then, I come home from work- turn my pc on- and now my WIFI doesn't work at all. If I use a wired connection the router works just fine, but if I use a wireless connection it always seems to fail at connecting. Whenever I try to connect to the open network my wifi window completely DISAPPEARS and then it comes back with a message stating "Can't connect to this network"

I have also tried looking through the router settings and it says the wireless is working just fine, and indeed I can connect to it easily with my phone with no problem. So I thought that my PC might be the problem. So I used my phone and created a hotspot-to which my PC connected to with EASE and no issue. So I know that my PC's wireless adapter works just fine and that the router's wireless works just fine, but they just don't work together?

Some other stuff I have tried
1. Manually setting up the network
2. Updating wireless driver (No updates)
3. Uninstalling wireless driver and reinstalling
4. Using Windows 10's "Network Reset"
5. Running these window's 10 commands
- netsh winsock reset
- netsh int ip reset
- ipconfig /release
- ipconfig /renew
- ipconfig /flushdns


So FAR, I still have the same problem. Any help would be appreciated

Also worth mentioning that my router is a Netgear R6120

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]

How could I go about isolating my WI-FI router from NETWORK sharing with my ISP modem. I use a seperate wifi router for my personal devices and leave the ISP wifi for my family to use. How can I make my personal router private from the ISP router and only communicate internet access through Ethernet? Lock Down Your Wi-Fi Network With Your Router’s Wireless Isolation Option
https://www.howtogeek.com/179089/lock-down-your-wi-fi-network-with-your-routers-wireless-isolation-option/

Hope it help.not quite what i was looking for. Anyway to make a Ethernet port on my ISP router to be limited to internet access only? or a router or witch they might SELL with such feature? Quote from: manthony6567 on January 11, 2018, 01:10:40 PM

Anyway to make a Ethernet port on my ISP router to be limited to internet access only?

Up till now, the Guest networks I had run across, in consumer routers, all worked basically the same, although some routers offer far more control over them than others. Guest networks are defined just LIKE the private Wi-Fi network(s) but with their own name (SSID), encryption (WEP, WPA or WPA2) and password.
Or so I THOUGHT. A recent article by Chris Hoffman at How-To Geek describes a security omission in the Guest networks created by Linksys Smart Wi-Fi and Belkin routers.   

Curious if anyone knows of a trick to set up Windows to use a different Static IP based on which profile you login under for Windows 7 64-bit?

Currently each time I connect to other networks under a Static IP I have to manually change it each time. So I was thinking maybe there is a trick that can be saved in a user profile so that depending on which user account I logon as it assumes a specific static IP address specific to just that user account.

Maybe I need to add something to the startup for each profile, but I was digging for a method via command shell in which I could RUN a batch or power shell from startup specific to each user profile, but not finding a solution. So figured I'd check here in case others have come across a method of doing this.

Maybe it requires a regedit script on startup to change registry values on logon of each account and I just need to construct something myself that does that. However I am thinking there might be a race condition in which the profile loading might load the PRIOR registry value and then the value changes in the registry but of which the value is the prior value maybe vs the latest IP address for that account.  When modifying the registry I've never tested on the fly to see if it affects the profile immediately or having to log out and back on to work.

One method that I know would work but its a real rube goldberg method would be to record the process of changing the IP address and compile that to EXE and then add that to the start up for the user profile in which the system is loading the profile and then the EXE triggers and then the mouse and keyboard automated go and do this process and then its done, but thats a rube goldberg method and if there is a better method then I'd like to do it through a script etc vs a automation macro on loading of the user profile. The macro automation method might be like taking a sledge hammer to a thumbtack.  Quote

Maybe I need to add something to the startup for each profile, but I was digging for a method via command shell in which I could run a batch or power shell from startup specific to each user profile, but not finding a solution. So figured I'd check here in case others have come across a method of doing this.

Maybe it requires a regedit script on startup to change registry values on logon of each account and I just need to construct something myself that does that.

i have just acquired a brand new pair of tp link. plugs.on the box it as tl-pa4020p kit.i have googled this ,but dont understand what it is supposed to do.is it something i can use.any help would be appreciated.It allows turning your home wiring into a means for network communications, but this technology is not PERFECT. It might work in some buildings and homes and not other etc. I have seen nothing but troubles with these devices. It seems like the ones that did sort of work had to be on the same leg of the building so if you have another room that is fed power from a different 120VAC leg then it might not work so well or not at all. If the other room where the PAIRED device is to be plugged in is on the same leg on your service then it might work ok or might be spotty where it works and then acts up without warning.

These devices are for people looking for a way to pass a network connection from one room to and send it to another like a communication bridge. If you got these for free the prior owner might have thrown them away because they didnt have success with them. 

I'd avoid using them unless you have an application that really needs to use them. Secure Wireless Networking is the way to go or hard wire Cat5 or Cat6 to a switch connected to internet connection that offers network connections to multiple rooms etc.  Each one plugs into an AC outlet and has an RJ45 (ethernet) socket. You use them when you don't want to string a long ethernet cable between 2 PLACES in your house. I think they work better in British houses, where we have a ring circuit, rather than some other countries where they have separate branch circuits. I have a pair of these to connect our smart TV to the cable modem/router, because my wife said "no" to a long ethernet cable. Also cheaper than the Samsung wi-fi adapter needed for the TV. They have worked fine for 5 years. I can stream 1080p video from my NAS DLNA server to the TV without any buffering or stuttering. From time to time one or other goes to sleep and you have to power cycle it, I would say this has happened 2 or 3 times in 5 years. my personal experience, having come across them a few times, is if possible, use something else.
their attraction in theory is 'plug and play' but in practice they can be difficult to setup and high maintenance.
I use the same philosophy with these devices as I do wifi, if possible go ethernet, but if you can't, alright give them a go.

I think Salmon is right, it depends largely on how the home is wired.

they were popular a few years ago, before the latest gen of dual and tri-band routers that have far superior coverage and penetration, elimination the need for these devices. Quote from: Mark. on December 11, 2017, 01:44:28 PM

my personal experience, having come across them a few times, is if possible, use something else.
their attraction in theory is 'plug and play' but in practice they can be difficult to setup and high maintenance.

they were popular a few years ago, before the latest gen of dual and tri-band routers that have far superior coverage and penetration, elimination the need for these devices.

time for a new PVR

Dear folk

Avast forum wasn't able to provide advice on my issue

I have avast internet SECURITY installed on Desktop windows 7.

Desktop  is acting as home server (i.e shared drive, shared printer )

My other two laptops can't ping the desktop unless i have to disable Avast ,,,,sometime my email client on desktop won't work unless I have to disable avast

Recently laptops can't print to my usb printer that was shared VIA desktop

Thanksso the wheel doesn't get re-invented, what has been tried so far?
what did the Avast forum members suggest? Quote

what did the Avast forum members suggest?

I have a second router HOOKED up to my main router by Lan to Lan for a better wifi connection, and have disabled the wifi in the main router.
Should i turn the firewall off on the second router, and will it conflict with the main router's firewall if left on?
Will having two router firewalls running slow down the wifi connection?
 If i do turn it off the second routers firewall, will there be a security risk with any device using the second routers wifi?
THANKS for any repliesKeep the firewalls on by all means. If you need something to pass through for communications that is otherwise blocked with firewall ENABLED then you need to set up port forwarding or something like that to make an exception for traffic to come through the firewall to a SPECIFIC device on a specific port or ports. It would be Extremely Foolish to run with firewalls turned off unless you want hackers to strike when they execute a port probe script and find you wide open for attack.

The only time I used 2 routers was to have two levels of security. The first router being the guest network and least secure in which I had  my daughters friends connecting their wireless devices to this as well as I had an apache web server on it with port forwarding until buying into a web host. My second router being the most secure and its for computers that need to be isolated from the rest in which there are no port forwarding exceptions ETC, and a monkey in middle attack wont happen at the first network because the data is encrypted going from the second through the first. I ran wireshark on the first and watched my packets and verified that nothing was clear text with authentications etc.

Does anyone know of a easy to read BOOK to learn about IP addresses?what about letting Google be your friend? My regular job isn't in the computer INDUSTRY. I like dealing with wireless NETWORKS of which I have the opportunity at church. I have been using Google. I have been reading about changing ip addresses so two routers work together, giving ip addresses to video equipment. I am in the a/c and REFRIGERATION industry. Most thermostats have wireless CAPABILITY in which you connect to a network. You then can access them from your phone offsite when there are problems with the temperature in a room or scheduling problems. I work in a hospital with exceptional wireless capabilities. All of the pharmaceutical refrigeration have wireless temperature monitoring. They all have their own ip addresses. I will keep searching on Google.Isn't a book to learn about ip addresses a bit like a book to learn about zip codes? Perhaps the idea is a book to learn about the IP (Internet Protocol) itself, including the IP address space, and how it is managed? if so, I suggest:

TCP/IP Illustrated by W. Richard Stevens

Internetworking with TCP/IP by Douglas E. Comer

I have an ANDROID smartphone with no SERVICE but has wifi capabilities I also have a smart tv I do not what capabilities it has what I want to know is if the tv is connected to the internet with a cable can I CONNECT smartphone to the internet thru the tv?I'd suggest installing a wireless router and have both devices SHARE that for internet service.

Not that I am aware of that a TV can share a internet connection with other devices on its own. Look in the features of your Smart TV and see if it offers Wireless Access POINT or Hot spot features to share its internet with other devices.

Apologies if this questions has already been asked and answered.

I have in wall CAT5e wall jacks, NON of them were working in first place. I went ahead to the master closet and opened up the patch box EVERYTHING was DISCONNECTED. I wired them all to the punch down ports and now they are all working when i test it with ethernet tester. However, when i connected my cable modem's ethernet port to one of the wall jack via ethernet cable i am not getting internet access in any of the wall jacks throughout the home yet when i test all the ethernet ports with tester, it tests out fine. This is driving me crazy now a days. Any tips? help? 

Thanks Hopefully you have a network switch that the incoming internet connects to that, then patch panel and cables tying in a single internet connection to the switch which allows for multiple devices to share a connection. You cant just have it all wired back to the cat5 of the modem. A switch is needed to share internet with multiple jacks/rooms.

If all you want is a straight shot and no other rooms to have internet then you could use the patch box as a redirect from one room to another with all other connections dead.Might be worth sharing a photo of what you have in the "master closet" - For a network to work you would need to have a network switch here that LINKS all the ports together.  If all incoming cables are connected together on some sort of panel then it's likely that the install you have is for analogue telephones and not computer NETWORKING, it's quite common to use CAT5 cables for this nowadays due to its wide availability.  In this case you'd need to replace what you have in the master closet with a patch panel and connect this into a network switch.

how can i boost my wifi service,,, i have been having a slow networking connection for a while...is there any software to increase the speed of browsing on my system,,, or did i have to replace my wifi card?I would go down the hardware path rather than the software one.

what are your current wireless components, the modem/router and the ADAPTER in your PC?
what are the ages?  if old, wifi technology has IMPROVED a lot recently (in terms of speeds, coverage and penetration)
also, if the modem/router is a few years old, it may be flaky.

all in all, a new modem/router and/or a new wifi card in the PC would be the best place to start.

another CONSIDERATION, try connection the PC to the modem/router via an ethernet cable (bypassing the wifi connection) and SEE if that helps.

also, what is your internet speeds?
there are many 'speed test' sites, but I LIKE this one; speedof.me  (exactly as written, no www.)

This is bugging me - I have one machine running Windows 10 Pro 64 bit - Insider Build 17025 and I installed Bitvise SSH Server. When I do a terminal log in from ANOTHER machine on my LAN, as soon as the terminal output reaches the bottom of the console window, the SESSION disconnects. Doesn't matter if the terminal type is VT100, VT102, VT200, VT320, xterm, or ansi. Terminal client can be Putty, Xshell 5, Windows 10 WSL console, or Bitvise SSH Client. I feel there is something obvious I am missing. Server log just says "Connection TERMINATED".

The machine is dual boot (Debian 8 Jessie) and when it is running that I can use any of my terminal clients with no problem. Likewise my Seagate NAS.
wonder what the chances are it's your Beta Windows build?
would be a *censored* to swap over to the MAINSTREAM build too to test that theory!Could be, I guess. I'd have to pay for a license, no chance of that. I found that Kpym SSH/Telnet Server doesn't do it, so I'm good.

Hello all,

I am trying to SETUP my home network and I need some help figuring out how to do it so that I can access my wifi PRINTER.

I currently have a Verizon 4G LTE mifi modem that is the source of the internet connection.
I have a cable running from the mifi modem to a Fortinet Fortigate 60E firewall.
From the firewall, I have a cable running to a Fortinet FortiSwitch 108D-POE.

Now, here is where things deviate, the switch has Ethernet connections to several computers and those ports are designated VLAN 100 (LAN) 10.1.100.x
Another port feeds an ASUS RTAC88U wifi router which feeds the rest of the devices in the house. The port that feeds the wifi router is set to VLAN 200 (Wifi) 10.1.200.x

I have firewall policies allowing both VLAN 100 and 200 to WAN, and policies to allow 100 to 200, and 200 to 100 traffic.

I have a printer connected to the ASUS router via wifi.

I currently cannot access the printer.

So, I'm poking around and I notice that the ASUS Router has a WAN IP of 10.1.200.2 but issues IPs to connected clients on the 192.168.2.1 network. I suspect that is the reason that I cannot access the printer.

I'm assuming that the ASUS router needs to be configured in such a way as to ISSUE correct IPs on the 10.1.200.x range?

What do I need to do in order to make things work?

Thanks in advance!

[Update] managed to SOMEWHAT solve this. The ASUS router NEEDED to be put into Access Point mode which seems to make it work more like I wanted.

Still have issues with getting the Canon Printer setup but I don't think it's strictly networking at this point...

I am using an Apple Tablet. Almost every 15 minutes I am having to 'Renew Lease' to stay connected. In simple language, any ideas please?Is this your network or a internet cafe or hotspot that offers just a complimentary 15 minute connection?

I've only seen this problem at an airport that had complimentary wifi that was free for 15 minutes and then in order to get another 15 minutes took some finagling. And they OFFER a better service at a cost that is uninterrupted and better bandwidth etc.Thanks for replying. It is my own network at home. No problems with the PC, just with the tablet, which is in another part of the house, and is running via an extender which, when I shut off and rebooted,  seemed to work but, after about an hour, it was back to normal, keeping on dropping the link until I renewed the lease. Peter.



Which extender are you using? Is this a wireless extender or one of those EXTENDERS that uses a home outlet as a means to send a network connection and then wireless to the outlet wifi?

Have you connected any other devices to this extended connection to rule out an issue with this setup vs the tablet itself?is the home PC connected via an ethernet cable?
that may explain why that unit isn't affected?

sounds like a DHCP lease time setting on your modem/router for wireless connections.
if it is almost 15 minutes exactly then look for something that says 900 seconds (15x60) as lease times are usually set in seconds.Hi to both of you. The extender is connected to the to the router and the router to the PC both by radio. No wires involved. The extender is a Netgear WN3000RP Universal FiFi extender. Pete. What make/model router do you have?

Some devices have issues working as a pair, so just curious if your running into this issue with pairing of devices that might be 2 different brands and one of them with a loose protocol that is causing this. Years ago I had a LINKSYS Router and a Belkin repeater and ran into problems. I ended up having to get a Linksys repeater to pair with my router to solve this and then return the Belkin. Issue i had was if you did a persistent ping about every 15th pin would fail for 2 or 3 pings and so it would come and go cyclic. The handshake between the devices even with them side by side when troubleshooting if it was a distance issue kept doing this. A forum for Linksys spoke of pairing and some loose protocols that dont work quite well between off brand devices. This was 10 years ago and hopefully these pairing issues have been cleaned up with stricter standards, but knowing what you have for a router and the extender we can hunt down if there is an issue with the pairing.

Othanks for your reply. The router is a BT 6. This problem has only happened in the last few days however, I have been trying all sorts of changes to the set up and it has been working without any problems all today. I contacted the necgear site and it did ATTEMPT to download an update so am hoping that this has rectified the problem.
Thanks to all of you that replied and will keep my FINGERS crossed. Pete.

I have an Acer Aspire 7551 with no internet connection. in device manager under network there is a broadcom 802.11g that's OK. An exclamation sign by TEREDO tunneling pseudo-interface and an exclamation sign by wireless network card. there is no INDICATION of any internet, wired or wireless in the righthand corner of the process line. the control panel says hardware missing when I try to establish a new internet connection. I sure hope someone can HELP me because i have no idea what's wrongtopic solved by changing OS to WIN 10

why not plug the IP camera into the same modem the PC is connected to?

there's no reset button on the camera.

I have problem connecting to specific sites on my PC, I can't get to YOUTUBE, or anything from google (like google support, google drive, etc.), today twitch stopped loading for me. Other sites work well, just those keep on loading and then i get connection timed out.
I tried most things I knew, checked PC for viruses, malware but nothing. No one else in house has this problem, I can acces those sites on my laptop, or mobile, just not on PC. One thing that puzzles me is that when I turn off/on router, all those sites start working again for about 15min before they SUDDENLY stop to. I tried turning off firewalls but no change. I am starting to be really desperate about it, half of sites is inaccessible to me. I have windows 10 and I am connected by an ethernet cable. I'll be thankfull for any advices.Are all others that dont have the problem on wireless and this is the only wired device?
Have you tried a different Cat5 port on router?
Have you run a persistent ping on another computer at the same time as this one using Code: [Select]PING www.google.com -t at command shell and see if both computers have a problem at the same time or just this desktop that is wired? ( Does it only affect wired network connections but wireless connections are fine? )

*You might find that the routers Internal Network Controller for Wired Networks is baked and acts up when it warms up and the Wireless is fine because the Wireless uses a different Internal Network Controller parallel to the Wired Internal Network Controller. In which you just need to replace the router. If its only this computer then I'd install a different Network Adapter and go that route since I have spare NIC's, they are pretty cheap to add another one. They are also available as a USB dongle if you dont have an available PCI or PCI-E slot to take an internal adapter. But since you said that rebooting the router and the PC I am guessing remains on and the problem is solved for about 15 minutes, I would expect it to be pointing to a router thats partially baked and needs to be replaced.it sounds like your internet is working fine, it's just a handful of sites you can't access.

if so, it pinpoints an issue with the browser.  I assume your emails are working fine.
try another browser, or make sure you don't have any extensions that could block sites.
on the blocking sites point, what do you have that could cause that?, like a firewall, a modified HOSTS files, MBAM etc.

also check you have the latest version of the browser you are using.Thanks to all of you, I have somehow managed to solve the problem. I have been trying some guides what I found and one was solved by changing network address to one I found under ipconfig /all on my laptop. I tried it and it worked, I have with my limited knowledge absolute no idea what was the problem and especially how and what it started, but I am glad I can finally use net again Interesting that you dont have DHCP running, which is usually by dafault and doesnt require what you had to do to get computers to work when enabled.... I guess to had to manually SPECIFY a static IP address. Hopefully this address is different than the one you got from your laptop otherwise you will have an IP conflict if both are on at the same time. The only IP Addresses that are shared are for Gateway and DNS, but actual IP Address will be the same first 3 such as 192.168.1.XXX where XXX is unique for each device connected so if the laptop is 192.168.1.73 you dont want to use 192.168.1.73 for the desktop, you want to use one that not used such as 192.168.1.101 if not in use or if you want the numbers close together 192.168.1.74. Its best to ping whatever IP address you plan to use first ti make sure no other devices have it dynamically assigned to them or statically set such as pinging 192.168.1.101 first and if no response from a computer already working correctly on this network, then set that IP for the device or system your joining to the network.Ok so it seems it solved problem for about....hour or so, and its back at the point one. Now doing what I did or going back and trying again does nothing. I am not using my laptop often, that's just for emergencies. If I do not enter some network adress manually like 00-3C-FF....  then net doesnt work at all, just ERR_INTERNET_DISCONNECTED. With manual input its back to youtube, google stuff and some other things not loading while other sites load well.

I dont know but it might have something to do with it. About three months ago my net stopped working at all, again only on my table PC and only to me. I spend about week trying every fix I found with my laptop and every advice I got, but nothing helped. Then on one site I found some guy with same problem and he solved it by this:
Go to Control Panel \ Network and Internet \ Network Connections

Right click the LOCAL Ethernet Adapter

Click Properties

Clcik the Configure button

Click the Advanced Tab

Find Network Address in the list and click it.

Look at the Value in the box to the right.

If its blank or all zeros try whacking it this value 00-0C-FF-00-3C-00.

At this point I was trying everything I found so I tested it. First off, I couldnt even write that whole adress into the box, i was limited to about 8 char max, but I had some other program called Realtek - Ethernet DIAGNOSTIC Utility and I could change it though it. And it worked, for the first time in week I was able to connect to internet. Anything else was back to no connection. Only about week ago youtube and google sites stoped loading and two days ago twitch too.
I have only one cable, so I tried connecting it to laptop instead of wifi and everything is fine, just not on my PC.

Curious if anyone KNOWS how this unmanaged switch QoS sets its priorities. How does it know what needs more bandwidth at times when MULTIPLE devices are drawing hard on the bandwidth? I looked around on google and the only switches with QoS info are managed ONES where you can set specific ports to have a greater priority. Never HEARD of a unmanaged switch with a QoS feature built into it and was looking around because I want to replace my 5-port with an 8-port and this caught my attention (QoS: 4 Queues, strict mode).

Looked at manual online here: http://www.dlink.com/hr/hr/-/media/business_products/dgs/dgs-108/manual/dgs_108_manual_en_uk.pdf

But it just states: Supports IEEE802.1p QoS (4 Queues)

Looking up IEEE802.1p since the manual only refers to the standard gives me this info here:

The IEEE 802.1p signaling standard defines traffic prioritization at Layer 2 of the OSI model. Layer 2 network devices, such as switches, that adhere to this standard can group incoming packets into separate traffic classes. The 802.1p standard is used to prioritize packets as they traverse a network segment (subnet).

Wiki shows this:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_P802.1p   which jumps from history of IEEE802.1P to IEEE802.1Q when going into how priorities are specified and states: ( Eight different classes of service are available as expressed through the 3-bit PCP field )

OK... still wondering HOW it knows what is a priority how does it know that one device is greater priority than another.  How does this value get set. Is there a standard that VoIP devices are using that all traffic from them have a flag saying HELLO IM VoIP I should be given high priority! vs looking like any other device on the network given an equal priority? According to looking at VoIP it should be given a Priority of 5 in the ( 0 thru 7 ) priority scale where the highest number is greatest priority.

Quote

Switching Fabric: 16Gbps

Packet Filtering/Forwarding Rates:
Ethernet: 14,880 pps per port
Fast Ethernet: 148,800 pps per port
Gigabit Ethernet: 1,488,000 pps per port

RAM Buffer: 128KB per device

QoS: 4 Queues, strict mode

Plug-n-Play Installation

Dlink Green Eco-Friendly Power Design

High reliability with Rugged Metal Case and High MTBF.

first off i apologize if in wrong spot. i am an old man trying to learn and to be honest right this minute a little overwhelmed with this among other things but i know tghis could the key to my locked door.  my ISP has gotten me riled today and i"m TURNING the tables i hope. i need to know syntax for finding my modem in this config.. cable in to modem and ethernet out to pc with ethernet card and wireless adapter at point A. at point B i have cable (ethernet from coax) into router and then ethernet out to 3 devices. is my modem and IM thinking spectrum has hidden or changed something since ipconfig /all yields different results from before they got the MAC and now. I just dont remeber exactly what is shoed but definately something different. JUSTY want to make sure before i do something that i am for certain what is different and that i can back that STAEMENT up.. thanks in advance and since ill have more ?'s im sure (installing tri boot 7,10,ubuntu or liinux??) ill be here more than anyone would want to put up with
I think from the gist of all that, that you are trying to FIND your modem address.

from a command prompt, just type ipconfig and hit Enter.
your modem IP address is listed beside Default Gateway.

you type that IP address into a browser and it'll take you to the modem config page where you can modify Provider settings, wifi access etc.

Does anyone know if you can use a docsis 3.0 with Comcast gigabit internet.  They force u to rent there 3.1 modem, but I have it and I can’t even use the WiFi unless I’m in the room with the modem.   I have a Netgear model c7000 it’s a 3.0 and Comcast says it won’t work at all.  Also I only pull around 350-500 download on my wired computer.  Does anyone else have this problem or know how to fix it ? That is certified for xfinity which is the same as comcast. The only way that comcast will refuse to allow use of this device is if it was flashed with a hacked firmware that gives bandwidth controls to the customer vs just comcast. If you never flashed the firmware in this and its still the firmware from Netgear then WHOMEVER your talking to might not know their job or they are trying to get you to LEASE theirs for $6 a month.

I have had my own modem for about 6 years now and recently went from Docsis 2.0 to 3.0 upgrade in which i had to replace my modem with one that was docsis 3.0 compliant as well as it has to be xfinity certified. I had no problems once I got comcast on the line after the 45 minutes on hold WAITING for assistance to give them my account INFO, confirm my identity as the account owner, and gave them my MAC address. After they flashed settings to your modem it will reboot 1 or 2 times and then you should be golden.Here is the reference to xfinity certified. Forgot to SHARE this yesterday.: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Certified-Xfinity-Spectrum/dp/B00ZUPOF7Y

you stated:
Quote

Also I only pull around 350-500 download on my wired computer

Connect WAMP Server/Virtual Host/local Word Press to GoDaddy.

Dear PLANET !

my name is Amadeus,

We are starting a self funded animal rescue center,
We have purchased out own servers, and are pretty tech savy.

We have run across something we can not figure out.

Here is our Set up.

HARDWARE.
1. 2u Server.
2. Lynksys E8400 router x 2
/ 1 Router is bridged.
3. 1Gigabit online speed.

SOFTWARE.
1. WAMP SERVER / INSTALLED. / VIRTUAL HOST / INSTALLED AND ACTIVE.

2. WORD PRESS INSTALLED IN LOCAL HOST / ACTIVE

3. WORD PRESS SITE CREATED. / SAVED AND PUBLISHED.

4. DOMAIN NAME PURCHASED / GO DADDY.

5. POINTED THE "A" CLASS DNS TO OUR
~ROUTER / NOT WORKING
~SERVER I.P. / NOT WORKING
~VIRTUAL HOST IP / NOT WORKING

We have tried everything,

~port forwarding
~port 80
~ pretty much every tutorial in the known planet.

The conclusion we came to was, it has something to do with the router ?

because godaddy can point to the router login page, but thats it,

after we tried port forwarding, its just a error page.

The only logical guess we have left is

1. We NEED to set the DHCP
INFO

DHCP Server:
Enabled Disabled
Start IP Address: 192 . 168 . 1.
Maximum Number of Users:
IP Address Range: 192 . 168 . 1. 50 to 149
Client Lease Time: minutes (0 means one day)
Static DNS 1: . . .
Static DNS 2: . . .
Static DNS 3: . . .
WINS: . . .

2. WE NEED TO POINT OUR VIRTUAL SERVER TO SERVER IP ?

3. Something we totally missed ?

we know how to change everything in the godaddy, DNS etc etc etc.
the issue at hand is what is the correct way of,
getting past the router, to the server, and to our local site we have in the server.

Ultimately
, we are trying to build our own sites on our own servers and get to live on the Web for everyone to join us in Animal Rescue.

This is everything we can possibly think off,
Please, Please, Please anyone out there that can tell us what we are doing wrong ?

We really need to get these servers up for the Animal Rescue Center,

All advice on, anything at all will help.

Thank you all for looking and taking the time.

Amadeus
we can provide any and all pictures requested to help solves this.
Hello, I am Geek9pm. I wish I could help you.
I have played with web serving for years and still have little understanding of how it works. You nee the help of SOMEBODY who has actually done the whole THING many times. It never is as documented. Somewhere there is always some little thing that has to be turned on.

A big issue on the internet is latency with to DNS information. It can, and does, TAKE days for DNS to settle down. By the way, you can get some free DNS administration from https://www.zoneedit.com/ that might help with DNS changes.

As for Go Daddy, they can be very helpful, but they want you to use their hosting service. Still, it helps to talk to then if you can get through.


Here is a 'workaround' that I suggest. Get the thing working by an alternative method. You object is to do a public service. If need be, cancel any service that does not work right and ask for a refund.

I know, that can be hard to do. Nut in the industry there are many who will not help you unless you  let them have control and take your money.Of the hosting companies that I have used, less than half have been what I expected.

Another suggestion. Don't pay more than yo have to for a domain name. If you get a really good one, KEEP it, but there is no need to pay more that $12 a year for just the domain. I think you might want to buy more that just one domain. It provides a way for doing trouble shooting. Some registrars have specials on domains names for the first year. Using two domains, you can have your stuff on your own server and have it on another server with the second domain name.  And it is even possible to swap servers using DNS administration.

If in the event something goes wrong,  and it will, you can steer you public over to the other domain. With Dns control you can even swap

All the work you have done in WordPress can be saved and used over again. And the WordPress templates are often free.

Have you ever, ever got the whole software package  thing up and running on some other  server as a 'proof of concept' or demonstration?

I am doing this is a hurry and have not edited this, but I think you get the drift of what I am doing. You need to have a secondary method to get up and running.

I have used many web-hosting companies over the years, but have never had enough personal income to afford a server of my own. Here is one site that I have and have kept it going for many years.

http://help9pm.com  a plain WordPress blog for my personal use.

However, I have had to move it from place to place at least once a year. The people that handle the web-hosting stuff sooner or later let me down and ruing my service. So I am used to the idea of having a backup plan and some kind of alternative method.

But I have never handled a server all by myself. So I can't really tell you what is wrong. I can only say have a secondary plan.

You  could send me a PM and I might provide more detail. The moderators don't like it when I miss spell words here. 

Stupid question here.

I was looking in Netgear's Network Genie to get the IP address of my printer (I was too lazy to walk to the other room and press "Info" on the printer) and found a buncha devices connected to my WPA2-protected network.

All the Genie lists is IP and MAC address; I can tie some of the MACs back to my iPad, my phone, and my teevee (well, and my printer, natch).

But there are a few I can't account for.

Now, my wife could have an iPad sitting in a drawer somewhere, or something.

But is there a way to:
A) Find out more about these mystery devices? (Operating systems, device names, etc.?)
2) Kick 'em off the network (without changing network passwords)?

I'm using the Netgear Genie because, oddly enough, you can't just log on to my router and see who's connected. Hmph.

Thanks,Are they wireless devices or Ethernet devices?
Do you know how to get into your router?
On some you would enter this:
192.168.0.1
and you will connect to your router. In the router you will find a list of connected devices.The Network Genie is just one of many apps taht di it for you.
Here is an article about such PROGRAMS:
https://www.komando.com/apps/368384/best-apps-to-control-your-router/all
Quote

Instead of using a web browser to access your router's settings, managing your home network is simplified with apps developed for controlling your specific router model.
Here's our list of the best router management apps for the more popular brands:

The might be important. for years I have used FTP for some kind of tool to upload files onto a server. Sometimes FTP, other times a web page editor.

ow I have come onto a problem that might be a  web host vendor that bends the rules. Granted, FTP is a real security thing. But he said I can FTP and never said it was turned off.  No, he did not warm me it does not work, instead he said to turn off TLS. I was stumped. Never heard of that before. 
So I did turn it off using Filezilla. The Filezilla documentation covers that.
OK. But it still does not work.

Now then, I am thinking I sometimes do very dumb  blunders . You people here and a broad experience   wish to tap.  Can you help me verify the FTP  to these two sites?

ophir.pw
IP 104.206.226.173    in Las Vegas
and
ophir.xyz
IP 155.94.224.140    in Los Angles

There is a directory named test on both sites. I have put information there as to how you might test the FTP service. Just let me know if you can get into the site with FTP. That is all I need to know.

Later I will change details to make the sites secure again.

If just two people get in, then I know it works.
If just two people run into a 'connection refused'  then I know the vendor is messing up the FTP and not telling his clients.

(If h does not want FTP he could offer another way to upload files.)

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Both sites are mine.  No  content of value. The is  nothing bad there. It is just a very simple test of the FTP service the vendor claims works. 



Both the addresses give an "authentication required" prompt when attempting to connect via FTP.Thank you for giving it a try. 
Do this:
Open the site in a browser.
Try to get into a directory names 'test'

Like this
http://ophir.pw
then
http://ophir.pw/test

There you will see a readme.txt  file that hast he user name and password for FTP.
What happens to me is that it all goes well until it gets to the place where the client gives a command to show the directory of the public folder. The Filezilla  ti MES out and quirts. Filezilla documentations says this is due to some kind of protocol issue.
However, one site does work, the other does not.

I want to know if others see that same behavior.


Works fine for me with FileZilla.

Code: [Select]Status: Connecting to 104.206.226.173:21...
Status: Connection established, waiting for welcome message...
Status: Initializing TLS...
Status: Verifying certificate...
Status: TLS connection established.
Status: LOGGED in
Status: Retrieving directory listing...
Status: Directory listing of "/" successful
Thank you BC.
Now I know that 104.206.226.173:21 is usable by others.
I want to RESELL that site to others, maybe not the same domain. Now I know that oother people will be able to use it.
The other sites has an IP of  155.94.224.140 for LA.
Are you able to get the same resultants? For me the directory command would fail when using Filezilla.

I suspect the owner of the server either does not know what he is doing or maybe he does not care. That could explain why he sells his web space at a big discount. ut if I can not some form of FTP or maybe SMTP then is is almost unusable.

Thank you for you help. 

Maybe some 18 years ago I started using FTP to download and upload. Never have I been told:
Quote

Do Not Use explicit FTP.

PLEASE NOTE:

Improper Settings Can Trigger The FireWall And Block Your IP Address:

Proper Settings Are As Follows:

FTP Username: (your username)

FTP server: (ftp.yourdomain.com)

FTP port:  21

Do Not Use explicit FTP.

Please make sure that TLS is not enabled when using FTP.

Please make sure that Passive Mode is enabled.
FILEZILLA Instructions

When configuring FileZilla, you can download an XML file and import it to your FileZilla client.
To configure the FileZilla FTP client: Go To >> In Cpanel: >> FTP Accounts:

 1
   Click the Configure FTP Client link that corresponds to the FTP account you wish to use to connect to your FTP server.

 2
   Click the FTP  link to download the XML file. We recommend that you use SFTP whenever possible, as it is generally more secure than FTP. Note: This step will over-write any PREVIOUS XML configuration file without warning.

One of my devices (WIRED connection with local IP 192.168.0.139) connected to my RT-AC56U ROUTER hangs after 4 or 5 hours of inactivity. The only way to make the device work again is to REBOOT the router, e.g. with ssh [email protected] reboot command, after which 192.168.0.139 works fine again (router is 192.168.0.2).

The only problem is that the reboot takes a LOT of time, and I want to access 192.168.0.139 faster/instantaneously. Is there a SSH command(s) of resetting/remapping the network without having to reboot the router itself, so that stale/inactive/corruptly configured devices are configured again. I have SSH root access to the router also over the internet.

Just for INFO: the device 192.168.0.139 is always visible with its mac address in the 'arp' table even when it becomes non-responsive, and also adding it again with arp -s 192.168.0.139 does not help.
so rebooting the device doesn't help, only rebooting the router?i don't have an option to reboot the device over the internet when I am away from home. I can access my router over ssh though.

This is not an attempt to break the law. Sometimes a site will PUT up a temporary block on a IP  shared by many. This is very toying.

My FTP client gets refused on just one site. It is not a password problem. I can GET other service, just not FTP.

A technician said that the FTP might be blocked.

Right now the local INTERNET provider puts me on 73.12.252.137 and I have no control over that. Nor do I want to pay to have my own IP.

Also, when a block happens, there is no easy way for me to know if it is a block issue or maybe some other thing. It is guess work. Having proxy to use would, maybe,. help identify the trouble I have making  connection to a remote site.

So, my question is this: What free proxy is available that might let me make a connection to a site the might be blocking me on port 21?

Can anybody help me find a suitable proxy for FTP?

If memory serves me correct on this one.... i remember others asking for a proxy solution and being shot down by moderators here. 

BTW the only proxy I have ever used was one that I owned and so I had full control over its behavior. Id be very careful using someone elses proxy solution if you find one. Its a gaping loss of security going through someones for a monkey in the middle attack of info as well as keylogging through a packet sniffer etc where someone can get your logon info etc.

They can be dangerous when they arent your own. I ran SQUID proxy years ago and it worked awesome but it was mainly for acting as a cache of frequently visited websites back when I shared a single dial up connection with 2 computers running XP with the one with the modem also running SQUID to only fetch content that wasnt already existing locally so no need to download the same content over and over unless it changes etc. Over dial up this made a big difference for frequently visited sites with mostly static pictures etc and only text changing etc.This your cheap WEB hosting again, isn't it?

An FTP Service is not even running on that system. For the best, as FTP is a pretty big security problem. You'd want SFTP, I think.

It is running Linux Kernel 3.0. It's host name is INTEL_CE_LINUX, and it's on a Workgroup named "HITRON" (A consumer router, I might add). It is running Samba version 3.0.37, configured to allow guest connections, disable message signing- and it looks like it only supports smbv1. It has an uptime of a little over 6 days.

I shouldn't be able to find any of that out within 30 seconds. But I can. IMAGINE what somebody who actually knew what they were doing could do. There are remote execution exploits for that version of Samba and SMBv1 that can literally take over the system. That's fun.

Thank you both. Yes, I am trying to understand why they make FTP hard.
If they think FTP is a hazard, they could just come out ans say so.
I think that I triggered a firewall thing and somebody has to reset it manually. I used to be able to detect this by using a proxy just to see if  I am being blocked. Byt I forgot what proxy service I use to have.  Oh well, it is not really very important. Just a big annoyance.
Ah yes, Linux servers can have some serious legacy security issues. If Windows will not let you do something, just fire up your Linux system and start Samba.