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I have recently been given a very old laptop (Sony Vaio model PCG-6122). It hasn't been USED in 10 years and I'm trying to restore it. Unfortunately I don't know much about computers and google/youtube hast given me much help.

My internet is through ATT U-verse. The modem doubles as a WIRELESS router. The laptop came with a Linksys Wireless-G Network adapter (with speedBooster). Model No.: WPC54Gs

The adapter is installed and it is sensing the modem. When I enter the passcode and try to connect, nothing happens.

I cant FIND much about this computer online. Im sure Im just not looking properly. I need help. Please help me get this computer online, I would greatly appreciate it.

Are you using the actual Linksys Driver with this card or default that windows CHOSE to use?

What level of security does your wifi have and is MAC filtering ENABLED on wireless router?

Have you tested this with wired connection at all via Cat5 to make sure that the computer otherwise has no problems connecting online once a healthy internet connection is established?

I can't transform my Windows XP  PC into a Remote Desktop(RDP). I spent more then 8 hours TRYING and trying
If someone wants to help me i really apreciate uhhh but we can do it using team viewer
give me your messenger or skype or i PM u here with my Team Viewer DETAILS...uhhh,please
thanksWe aren't going to help over teamviewer, asking random people on the internet to remotely control your PC is only going to cause issues.  Ask your question clearly here explaining exactly what you want to do and what you have tried so FAR and people will answer.Is your computer running XP Pro?  Only XP Pro COMPUTERS can act as a host (meaning you can login to them remotely).  Non XP Pro boxes can only act as a client.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/315328

Since you already know of the alternative, TeamViewer, which doesn't have the same restrictions, why not use it?Microsoft Windows XP Profesional Version 2002 Pack 2
I don't use a Team Viewer becouse i want to be able to connect to my PC remotely from distance
Is there a solution?LogMeIn could be a solution.  Visit https://secure.logmein.com/

Actually, TeamViewer can be used to connect to your home PC from a remote location.  See https://www.teamviewer.com/en/help/381-Home-Office-Work-from-Home-on-Your-Office-Computer-via-TeleworkI want  connect to my PC from distance , i want transform my PC into a VPS UNDERSTAND?
with team viewer and logme in  i need PC codes to login and i can't connect if my PC is closed right?
i want tranform it into a RDP, VPS

Okay so i needed to confirm something for some time. I am using a wireless connection and i am paying for 1 MB/s. On Speedtest.net It tells me my download speed is 1mb/s. Does this "download speed" determine the speed at which i can download files from the internet or does it show the speed at which i can load web pages?
It is both, because Web pages are "Loaded" by effectively downloading files, and then the browser views them.
Like BC_Programmer said, the download speed determines both the speed at which the files are downloaded and webpages are loaded. This is because your browser uses a HTTP protocol to request data on the web page. The web server then responds with the requested content. All data is simply bits and speedtest measures how many bits can be downloaded per second, it doesn't care how the bits are arranged. Quote

Does this "download speed" determine the speed at which i can download files from the internet or does it show the speed at which i can load web pages

i THINK its stopping the printer from talking to the other devices in the house. wireless printer been TRYING to get it to work for mouths plz help.No CLUE what your saying...start again and explain how everything is connected for starters...ok so i got 3 computers that run throw a router so they can get online, mom and dads smart phones WONT CONNECT to it any more and i cant get the wireless printer to talk to any of the 3 comps with out it being hardwired in. they used to all work i could get on with any comp and print from any of the 3 but sense my sis axadently(sp) sat up a home group on her windows 8 we cant print from a comp that not hardwired in.

Hey guys,

I have question about backbone networks. Need Help!

If an organisation has 3 departments.
Key servers are in different departments – so a user from 1 department X reads and writes to file servers in another department Y. And both users access mail from a server in department Z.
The traffic and broadcast storms originating in one department is causing bandwidth saturation in other departments.
The core of the network is slow and is unable to meet the response time requirements of various critical business applications.

What is the SOLUTION based on core technology design, LAN TECHNOLOGIES and design solutions to address inter-departmental traffic issues?

Thanks!
SOUNDS like a question out of a school TEXT book 

Routing tables are NEEDED. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Routing_table

This has been an on/off problem for the past few months. Wireless router from AT&T works just fine but then reboots for no reason at random. All lights go out for a second, power LIGHT begins flashing, and router goes through normal boot process. It comes back up and works after about THREE minutes. During the reboot every device is kicked off the NETWORK including PC connected with wired connection and VoIP phone for the house. Has interfered with uploading videos to YouTube, online gaming, and one important/business related phone call. Problem usually happens once a week and at total random.Here are 3 things that could cause this...

1.) ISP is performing FIRMWARE update that is forced to the router if this is a leased router.
2.) Quick Power disruption such as a single quick dip in power that caused lights to flicker and trip up the modem/router.
3.) Temperature Related overheating ... this is less likely because you stated only about once a week this happens.


If this is a leased modem/router, I'd request a replacement as the potential solution.The router is leased. Began to happen after I got a new office desk setup and installed the router and all my other PC components into it.As a leased modem/router, I'd request a replacement as the potential solution and see if that fixes the problem for you. Most ISP's have a no questions asked replacement plan if you request a replacement because it SEEMS like its crashing like this.I have also noticed the hot time for this issue to occur is after quitting a browser. Would a browser be causing something to make this happen?

Hi all,

i have just received new internet, i got Telstra cable on the fastest plan with speed boost. now i have no problems with the service apart from a little service cut yesterday i just wanted to upload my modem statistics and if someone could have a look and LET me know if the are OK good, GREAT, horrible, poor and so FORTH and so on

[attachment deleted by admin to CONSERVE space]

Hi all,

In the past month I've noticed some strange behavior on my 3 year old self-built desktop. Here are the specs before I go into a full explanation:

Windows 7 64bit up to date
Intel i5 3570-k
16gb ram
gigabyte MOBO (don't remember the model)
Geforce gtx 670

The problem appeared about a month ago. The first problem was SIGNIFICANT lag in an online game. Talked to my ISP (TWC) and after the usual rigmarole a technician came, replaced my router/modem, but told me there was a problem with the cable lines in the area. After about a week, the lag dissipated and I was content enough.

Since then I've continued to notice some other problems. Using Chrome while watching a video on VLC, every time a page loads, the video breaks up. It's usually just the audio being distorted until the page loads completely.

While the lag was prevalent, I ran a ping -t google.com to watch for DROPPED packets. I was getting 1 in 20 requests timing out. For the past week I've been getting "General Failure" on the ping instead of "Request Timed Out".

I'm just wondering if this is an early sign of hardware failing, and if anyone has any guidance they could give me.

Thanks so much for your time!Some questions.
Do you have another computer that has the same symptoms?
Are you using Wi-Fi for your connection?
Do you have USB 3.0?
Have you tried using less RAM for comparison?
Do you overclock you computer?
Do you often scan your PC for virus?
Do you have any new hardware or software installed?
Have you used an alternative OS for comparison? Perhaps Linux Live USB? That would help identify  possible OS issues or driver issues.

IMHO, it is more likely the cable company is having issues. 
Where are you? Who is the company?

Service quality varies a lot. Even with the same company.
Here is a remark from a happy customerr in one area if the USA:
Quote

After having some problems with my internet dropping out, I CHECKED my connections and found that the cable going across the street to the easement on my property was filled with water. The first tech who was sent out didn't fix anything, and never showed up the next day to finish his job. The next tech was very good, he replaced the cable with water in it, installed two NIDs to keep water out, and was very friendly. He SCHEDULED an installer to come and re-wire my outlets 2 days later.

Hey,

I just upgraded to fibre yahoooo!

I am getting 30mb download on my laptop which is fantastic but only around 2-8mb download on my desktop. I have tested from exactly the same position from the router both through WiFi.



What could be causing this?

APPRECIATE any help.What OS is on each PC ?
What AV program is running? Some AV programs scan everything the come down the line. Try the test with the AV disabled for a short time.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 22, 2015, 07:41:40 AM

What OS is on each PC ?
What AV program is running? Some AV programs scan everything the come down the line. Try the test with the AV disabled for a short time.

Both connections are using WI-Fi?
Wireless connections, by nature, can vary a lot deepening on a number of factors. But even so, a ten to one variation is not normal for two PCs in the same area.

As a control, what happens if you use direct Ethernet cable?  If that gives normal   results, we can conclude there is a problem with the wireless adapters.

Cheap USB Wi-Fi adapters are an easy way to test out your wireless. Some under $15 work as well as the high price models.  Do Google search.

You expect no more than 30 Mbps,  so the  type N adapter is not needed. The type G is good enough, it can do up to 54 Mbps.

In addition to distance, the other wireless signal killers are the objects and elements that are in the way of throughput, namely water and metal. Water acts as a blockade for 2.42GHz signals, so it may be wise to get all objects in your home or office that contain any form of liquids out of the way (this includes radiators and flower pots -- no kidding!). Also make sure that metal objects are not in the way of your router and your clients: this goes for metal furniture as well as metal boards, tech gear, etc.

Here is a reference about your kind of problem:
10 reasons your Wi-Fi speed stinksBut I still think you should try another adapter just to be sure.

So I've been having a PROBLEM with my Modem-Router where it will shut down every 30 minutes to 2 hours. The desktop PC doesn't LOOSE connection because it's connected via ETHERNET to the router. Everything else connected using wireless looses connection.
What happens:
Quote

iPhone:
 - Either won't show up on the Wi-Fi list or says Enter Password and I enter it but it opens up Enter Password again and keeps doing it.

Xbox 360:
 - Can't connect to Xbox live. Would you like to test the connection by QUITING this game? Shows up on list but won't allow me to connect.

iPod/iPad:
  - Same as iPhone.

Computer:
 - Either limited or doesn't show up on list (most of the time)

I have a DELL Inspiron small desk 3647 computer that's a year old. Connecting to the internet through Ethernet/Router was working fine until we had a storm and lost cable and internet service for a day and a half. My husband got internet back on his computer but mine will only recognize Wi-Fi. Keeps saying Windows did not detect networking hardware. Every time I run a scan to detect problems it says my connection is fine, I guess because I'm connected through Wi-Fi. Cable guy says no Ethernet driver. I'm not sure what to do or how to fix it. Please help! I have spent two days googling it and still haven't gotten anywhere. I think it lies between drivers and IP address but not sure what to do or how to do it. any help would be greatly appreciated. Like I said before it was working fine before the storm. My husband and I are on the same router but are wired separately.  Mine is showing no other connections other than Wi-Fi. Sorry I forgot to mention I'm running Windows 8.1Did you say electrical storm?
Even a nearby lightning strike can generate LOTS of secondary spikes on wires and cables in a neighborhood.
Your Ethernet hardware is partially damaged. But there is no way to repair it. You must use Wi-Fi for network connections.

Another choice.
Cable Matters® USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet Network Adapter
Maybe that will work.   Thank you. Is there anyway to be sure and why is it not repairable? Just asking?I suppose you have a router and you can connect another PC to it using Ethernet.
Try using this command on both computers. One at a time. This command shows what LOCAL IP assignments the PC gets from the router.
Open the command line thing.
type in
ipconfig /all
This will show of list of things found.
It should look almost the same on both computers.
If there is a big difference, the Ethernet is not working.

Only one computer? Well t\try it and see how much info you find.



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Thank you! We did this and mine basically refers to everything being WIRELESS. His don't. I went ahead and ordered Cable Matters® USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet Network Adapter and a 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub because I needed that too. But after I ordered it I couldn't figure out how this would work.  If my Ethernet card or whatever it's called is missing or broke, then how is this going to find it?  It's still going to be plugged into my computer.   You did say that one computer works on Ethernet and one does not. That would implicate that the sick computer Ethernet hardware was damaged, but not the router. The solution is to use another Ethernet adapter.

The most convenient way to add a new n Ethernet connection to a PC is to use the Ethernet to USB device.

Image from Amazon.com

The device has both a USB plug and a Ethernet jack. You may have to go into device manager and disable the non-working Ethernet device. Normally Windows will select a device that is functional. If not, you have to force it by running the connection WIZARD again.
Problem solved. Thank you so much! I ordered the Ethernet adapter and it came in today. Working like a charm! I didn't have to do anything, just plugged it in and my computer picked it up automatically. Thank you so much for your help and your suggestions. You are welcome!

Hi there,
And thank you for reading this.I bought an Edimax wifi extender http://www.edimax.com/edimax/merchandise/merchandise_detail/data/edimax/global/wi-fi_range_extenders_n300/ew-7438rpn_v2
about two months ago. It was WORKING fine until a couple of weeks ago when the signal started appearing as "limited" and sometimes dropping off entirely. Now and again it works.
An orange light is flashing next to the reception icon on the extender...I'm guessing it's not recieving signal properly from the router.
The main wifi from the router is working fine. We have even tried changing internet channels from #1 to #11.
I have reset the extender several times, and am constantly pressing the wps button to try and get a CONNECTION.
I have a windows 8.1 LAPTOP btw. 

Thank you for your assistance! You have a Edimax wifi extender that was working and has become erratic.  Is it still inside the warranty period?
Quote

Extends the range of existing 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi networks
iQ Setup for easy Wi-Fi extension Smart 3-in-1 mode: Access Point, Wi-Fi Extender and Wi-Fi Bridge Finds best setup location for optimal Wi-Fi coverage with signal strength LED Compact, wall plug design for convenient placement
Features a hardware WPS (Wi-Fi Protected Setup)

Hi!

I'm trying to make wake on lan over the internet work on my HP Compaq DC7800P vPro running Turnkey Linux server. I enabled WoL in the BIOS and forwarded port 9 and 7 UDP. I then tried http://www.depicus.com/wake-on-lan/woli.aspx and http://www.wakeonlan.me/.

None of these websites worked. Is there something I should have done on the OS-side?
I have Ubuntu installed on another partition.

Thanks!WOL, Wake up Over LAN is a common TRICK used on both Windows and Linux computers.
It can be done on a Mac also. The whole point is to reduce power use when the system is not needed. With that in mind, there are other methods besides WOL and documented elsewhere. But now about WOL

Always But ONE thing is needed for WOL. Somehow the LAN hardware has to be on and receive signals. It may be in low-power state, but still has to get stuff over the network.
Often this means setting a option in the BIOS. And the OS may have to go into some form or sleep or hibernation.

Here are links related to Linux:
http://www.cyberciti.biz/tips/linux-send-wake-on-lan-wol-magic-packets.html
https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Wake-on-LAN

Have  you already done it with Windows?
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows7/what-are-wake-on-lan-capabilities
http://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/2776718

If you don't get it to work, wouldyou7r consider the workarounds?
EDIT: If you suspect a hardware issue, read this:
Quote

Understanding remote wake-up
The ability to remotely wake computers is an important development in computer management. The feature has evolved from a simple remote power-on capability to a complex system able to interact with many devices and OS power states.
Early implementations required the system to have a standby power supply. The system could be started from a power off state by sending a "Magic Packet*." The adapter responds to a "Magic Packet" that has its own MAC address by toggling a signal connected to the computer power control circuitry. The power control circuitry, in response, activates power resulting in the computer booting the OS.
The ability to power on the computer allowed network administrators to complete off-hours maintenance at remote locations without sending a technician. This early implementation did not require an OS that was aware of remote wake-up.

What router models support Wake On Lan (Standalone or via UDP forward to a broadcast address) ?

Unfortunately, information about this specific feature is often difficult to find. Usually, it won't appear in technical datasheets and, even worst, it may change from one firmware version to another. In short, most router do not support UDP forward to a broadcast address.

These DIY services aren’t as easy to use, HOWEVER. You’ll have to set up port-forwarding and dynamic DNS on your own to access them remotely. They’ll also be harder to secure, as any bot scanning your IP address from the Internet will see the services running on those ports and can attempt to break into them and compromise your PC. This isn’t a risk with services like TeamViewer or Parallels Access, which handle the authentication BITS on their own central servers.

PCs have long supported a feature known as Wake-on-LAN. When Wake-on-LAN is enabled on a PC, the PC’s network interface listens for a specially formed packet, even while the computer is powered off, hibernating, or in sleep mode. When the computer receives the packet, it powers on.
You could take advantage of Wake-on-LAN to turn on your PC over the Internet. This would allow you to leave your PC off except when you want to access its desktop or files remotely.

If you want to send them over the internet you should first connect in to some device running from within the LAN and use that to send the WoL packets out.

Tomato (firmware)
Tomato is a partially free HyperWRT-based, Linux core firmware distribution for a range of Broadcom chipset based wireless routers, most notably the older-model Linksys WRT54G (including the WRT54GL and WRT54GS), Buffalo AirStation, Asus Routers and Netgear's WNR3500L. Among other notable features is the user interface, which makes heavy use of Ajax as well as an SVG-based graphical bandwidth monitor.

I am having some trouble with my client and server codes , i need to send a mac address to the server and get an ip address in return, i ALSO need to MAINTAIN a list of ip adresses allocated and lease time also is involved in this. Need urgent help, been trying this for weeks Please give more detail.
Do you have IT training? Networking?
What is the make mad model of the RELEVANT equipment?

Do you understand that  mac address does not always result in a persistent IP address?

By server, you mean a remote server over Internet?

It might help if you explain why you need this. There already exist many programs that resolve most network problems. Do you have a real unique problem?

Do you understand Dynamic DNS?
The Wikipedia article is defective, but still useful.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_DNS
Quote

The term is used to describe two different concepts. At the administration levels of the Internet, "dynamic DNS updating" refers to systems that are used to update traditional DNS records without manual editing. These mechanisms are explained in RFC 2136, and USE the TSIG mechanism to provide security.
Another kind of dynamic DNS permits lightweight and immediate updates to its local database, often using a web-based mechanism. It is used to resolve a well-known domain name to an IP address that may change frequently. It provides a persistent ADDRESSING method for devices that change their location or configuration.

Hi All,
I have a old netgear router that has TREATED me good over the years. I would like to replace it. I am looking for SOMETHING that can do QoS and can handle wireless. ANYONE have any SUGGESTIONS?

THANKS

Hello,

I have created hosted network through Admin Command Prompt commands and even shared with that hosted network. In Hosted network properties I can see IPv4 is having status as 'Internet' but it is not RECEIVING any packets. Does any genius have this solution what am i Missing. Earlier I was connecting WITHOUT any problem but since I changed my SSID and KEY I am facing this issue? Does my firewall settings changed in between or any other solution?
Image attached for your reference.

I am connected to Internet.
I have shared internet.
I ran commands as an Administrator.
My wifi is working.

Regards,
Bhushan

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Sorry, I am not yet to speed on this Windows 8 feature.
From what I read, this requires a Wi-Fi network, which is a local network.
Therefore, any change to the station ID or the password would impact the hosted network.

Do you have a referee document that explains in more detail what you did?
Was it this one?
About Wireless Hosted Network. (Microsoft)

Or MAYBE this?
How to Create a WiFi Hotspot Using the Command Prompt (Wiki How)

Or something else? 


I thought it is possible without installing third party software.

I was having problems with my phone connection, and a tech came out and INSTALLED a new modem. I had a single-band one, and they installed the new dual-band modem. Everything was fine for about a week, and then I moved to a new apartment.

I brought the new/current modem with me, and a technician came and installed the modem in my new apartment. Everything was fine for 11 days. On day 12, I was using the phone and internet when I lost my connection to both. The phone did not disconnect properly and even using my cell phone I got a busy signal when dialing the number I had been previously connected to. I performed a power cycle on the modem, and the issue was resolved.
 
I continued to have this issue repeatedly for several weeks. Sometimes the issue would be resolved with a power cycle, and sometimes it would not. Sometimes I do not have a connection for as long as 15 hours. Two technicians have been to my apartment and have not found any interference on the line. The signal history over the past 7 days has always been good.

I have tried the following methods of fixing the issue:

-A new single-band modem
-A new dual-band modem
-Four coaxial cables
-Plugging the modem's power cord into outlets on two separate CIRCUIT breakers
-Moving the modem to the OPPOSITE end of the room
-Operating the modem with nothing plugged into it (no phone or Ethernet cords, etc.)
-Connecting the modem directly to the coaxial cable in the wall as opposed to going through the switchplate
-Having the modem remotely reset by Comcast
-Pressing the reset button on the modem

The issue does not seem to happen at a specific time of day or a specific day of the week. It is not RELATED to the refrigerator or heat running, nor to weather conditions, as the problem occurs when it is not raining or windy. It can be fine for several days, or it can go out four times in one day.

Other Comcast customers in the area are not affected, as I can connect to the xfinitywifi network when my modem does not have a signal. The US/DS light flashes rapidly and the online light does not turn on. Comcast technicians on the phone say the modem shows as turned off or "does not register in the system" when it is in this state. It cannot be remotely reset in this state, as it is not receiving signals from Comcast.

The modem is a Cisco DPC3939 from Comcast, Hardware Revision 1.0. When it is not WORKING, it shows the following stats, some of which I am told are out of spec:

Downstream: SNR 29.807 dB; Power 2.600 dBmV
Upstream: Power Level 21.250 dBmV

However, when I have an internet connection, the stats are in spec. Comcast seems to be at a loss as to how to fix the problem. Is there anything else I can try myself?

So my network (with about 35 client workstations) currently has 3 DCs, one of which is the PDC. The PDC is running Windows Server 2003, and the other 2 are running Server 2000 (for the time being). For the life of my I cannot GET the times to actually balance out across my network.

I noticed one thing that's a little funny which is that the output of a Code: [Select]w32tm /monitor query shows that the new PDC is referencing the old time server and the old time server is referencing the new PDC as it's time server...  It looks to me that it was not setup correctly when the new PDC what installed, so I'm trying to figure our how to get it right.

At this moment, I have all 3 servers showing the correct time, and the largest NTP offset is under 0.02s, so that's good. However, I still can't get the time right on the client machines. From what I can tell I have successfully disabled Daylight Savings on the DCs, but for some reason most of the workstations are still displaying the Daylight Savings time!? And whatever I do to try to get them showing the right time just gives me an access denied error (this happens if I run the commands from the WORKSTATION as User or Admin, and from all of the DCs including the PDC when being run as admin too).

Anyway, it seems all jacked up to me and I really can't make heads or tails out of whatever is going on. Basically I need it to work so that whenever I change the time on the PDC the network will FOLLOW suit.

Any help is greatly appreciated!GENERAL note:
The OP means Primary Domain Controller
That means a  PDC s a server computer in a Windows NT domain.
The PDC has an administration account which has overall total control of the domain resources. This is a legacy thing from Windows NT.

My questions:
Why use the PDC concept with modern versions of Windows network?
Why not have all stations use the National Time Service once  a day?
National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST)
Just asking.   

One more this. Recently MS  Tech Net updated this article:
How the Windows Time Service Works
Hope that might help some.

This is not necessarily a problem as for the system runs fine, but this system was not installed or configured by me and I am trying to figure out what is going on with 2 IPv4 IP's listed when only a single IP I have thought forever could be used per Network Adapter unless a higher end server NIC with multiple RJ45 PORTS etc.

What caught my eye was these two IPv4 IP's when performing a IPCONFIG/ALL. I was not expecting to see 2 IP addresses for a single network adapter. Info below is an altered copy/paste of info to represent similar to what I am seeing on this other system that I dont have internet access from to copy/paste the actual info from. I took notes and edited the copy/paste from this computer that I am at now. The OS of the system is also WINDOWS 2000 Professional SP4 and not Windows 7 that this copy/paste of ipconfig came from.

Quote

C:\Users\user1>ipconfig/all

Windows IP Configuration

   Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : SysMonitor1
   Primary Dns Suffix  . . . . . . . :
   NODE Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
   IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
   WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 60-02-92-1C-F3-A4
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : No
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::1c0f:edb8:1498:58d8%11(Preferred)
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 10.10.60.8(Preferred)
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 10.10.40.8
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 10.10.60.1
   DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 10.10.60.1
   DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 241173138
   DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-1B-D2-69-78-60-02-92-1D-FC-38

   DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 10.10.60.1
                        . . . . . . . . . . . : 10.10.40.1
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Advanced TCP/IP Settings
IP Addresses             Subnets
10.10.60.8          255.255.255.0
10.10.40.8          255.255.255.0


Default Gateways               Metric
10.10.60.1                               1
10.10.40.1                               16

Can I shut down automatically adding to groups? In the past you NEEDED to confirm that you WOULD like to join a group, now members can add you to groups WITHOUT asking. Is there anything to do or that is a new Facebook rule and it is NOTHING to do against that?

hello there GUYS,

my system recently was infected by malware, I removed the malware USING Malwarebytes anti-malware, SUPERAntiSpyware, and then I ran a scan with hitmanPRO. the scans did find and remove the malware but in the process, they also did something to affect my network adapter. I have tried using the "net adapter repair all in one" tool, but I had no luck and repairing the issue. Can you guys PLEASE help me?

please note: I am connected to my network via an Ethernet cabletry checking yours network adapter drivers, chances COULD be they got DISABLED. They could be disabled or they could have been hosed when the malware was removed. Go to the manufacturer's site and download the drivers you need for your os.

I've just started using wireless again after being on wired for a long time and I am having some severe ping troubles.
Previous to being on wired and using wireless I had no issues but now COMING back to it something is wrong.

Issue:
Ping SPIKES of over 1000ms to my router at random intervals

Pinging to my router:
Code: [Select]Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=4ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=4ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=4ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=587ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1362ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=4ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1421ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1181ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=42ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Attempted Solutions:
REINSTALLED Drivers
Trying different Wifi settings
Switching between 2 and 5 GHz bands
Factory Resetting Router
Installing WLAN Optimizer
Disconnecting all other wireless devices from the network
Virus/Malware scan

So far none of the above have worked

OS: Windows 8.1 64 Bit
My NIC is as http://www.asus.com/uk/Networking/PCEAC68/ , I spent a lot of money on it to make sure I would have no wireless issues but apparently that is not the case.

Although the average ping is higher I don't actually get these incredible spikes on my phone which leads me to BELIEVE it's on my computer's end.

Any help would be appreciatedI have just tried using a connection analyser to see if anything was HAPPENING network-wise on my PC during the spikes but there was nothing noticeable at all. I am extremely lost on this one.

Hi, so currently I have 12 download 1 upload and whenever my SISTER is using the internet (probaly DOWNLOADS something) then my ping goes high no matter what when gaming. So would a 12 download and 6 upload help ALOT? or maybe even 15 download and 3 upload?
ALSO I host minecraft server for my family and such, I guess I need some upload, and maybe in the future I'll stream.
And also, when I download games from steam I would get around 1MB per second, will the upload have and affect here or the download?

Thanks in ADVANCE. ps. sorry for my bad english :p

So, I've ran into a strange problem with my wi-fi; mind you, this problem did not exist before last night. Until yesterday, my wifi has worked flawlessly, ever since I set it up. It comes from my Zyxel ROUTER that I got from my internet provider, and I have not changed the settings since the wifi was setup.

Until last night when I was trying to figure out why my linux installation, on my lap top, could not detect the wi-fi. My iPhone can and so did my old lap top. Someone suggested that I change the mode from 802.11/b/g/n to 802.11/b/g.

Apparently the /n screws up linux in most cases. The problem seemed solved, since immediately my lap top detected the wi-fi network and was able to connect without problems.

Except afterwards, I noticed the wi-fi still did not let my lap top use the internet. On top of that, now neither can my iPhone. The iPhone connects to the network fine, but no internet service will work; either browsing or any app that uses the internet, like games, weather, etc.

I've tried since to switch it back to /b/g/n but that did not help either.

Anybody have any idea what is going on? I've not changed any other setting, and not that there even are that many.

The router model is Zyxel VMG3326-D20A.It seems the Zyxel VMG3326-D20A does not have an English manual.
Have you contacted your local Internet service company? Maybe they know something ODD about his modem.

From the information you give, it seems more likely the issue is with the modem, not your computers.

You might try to reduce the security level of the Wireless Password. Or even temporary disable it to prove that it is a security issue and not a hardware or Linux failure.

BTW: Does it work well with a direct cable?

No I haven't yet called my ISP, simply because I have a feeling they will simply tell me that they do not offer support for the modem and that I should instead be in contact with Zyxel's customer support.

If everything else fails, I'll still give it a go though.

It does indeed seem like the issue is the modem. At your suggestion I fiddled with it a bit...

The wireless has three security settings; No security, BASIC, and more security. The last is obviously RECOMMENDED and what I've been using. When I turned it to Basic, it said WPS is enabled and thus I can only use More or No security.

No idea what WPS is but fair enough and turned it to No Security. Nothing meaningful change, until, on a whim, I left it on No Security and rebooted the modem by physically turning the power off. I left it like that for ~10 seconds and turned it back on, and voila, suddenly my iphone could browse the internet. I also tested some apps, like the Simcity game and they worked flawlessly.

I then changed the setting again to More Security and changed the password. Again, same problem; my iphone could connect to the Wifi just fine but again could not browse. I turned the model off and on again, and voila, worked. I changed the password again and had to repeat the on / off routine for it work.

Seems there is something about it that requires the modem to turn off and on before it will work properly again.

Any idea what that could be?

On another note, seems my lap top with linux mint 17.1 can no longer detect my wi fi network. I noticed it on the first reboot. It did show up for a very short period on the second reboot but now it is gone again. It can detect a lot of wi fi networks in the area, including my neighbor's but, for reason, again cannot detect my own, home wi fi.

Seems really bizarre. Got any ideas for that?P.S And yes to your question, direct cable internet works the same as ever. No issues with that. The problem seems to be centered around wireless.Good. That is, good work. What you have is not uncommon at all. The advanced security fortes are almost, but not quite, universal. In general, when the security fails, you  do not get any explanation. I have seen that happen over and over again.

The iPhone is a reliable product. Apple keeps the OS up to date. So it would seem the real problem is the modem/router security  program. Maybe the modem needs a firmware update. But without the manual for that modem, it is hard to tell you what do do.

It is a Zyxel VMG3326-D20A - right?
Here is a similar issue:
Quote

Finally, I came across a post [in Finnish] in Elisa forums which suggested changing the "channel" to anything in the range of 1-11. The default setting was "auto" and the modem took channel 13 by default. I now changed it to channel 1 and it works! To change the channel, I connected to the modem with the URL, 192.168.10.1 (when I was connected to the modem with the cable of course!). The user name and password by default were 'admin' and 1234. Then I navigated to 'network settings' and 'wireless'. The operating channel was 13 before I made any change. In the channel selection field I replaced 'auto' with 1 and applied the change!

Dear Experts

My Windows 7 laptop connected to internet via my MOBILE Samsung Galaxy S3 by tethering portable Wi-Fi hotspot.

I am a technician field and I need to connect my laptop via USB PORT to an Ericsson MiniLink (telecom NE) node to do configuration.

https://mazrilhisham.wordpress.com/2004/01/01/traffic-node/#jp-carousel-241

Whenever I connect  the USB cable from the laptop to Ericsson my internet gets dropped, while this didn’t happen to my coworker who is using the same laptop brand as mine.
 
By the way the Ericsson software  that I installed on my laptop create the attached socket called : "Ericsson USBLAN adapter" on my computer's network and that would be used for the USB communication

http://imgur.com/IRNyoIv



Any advice what should I do to avoid this problem
 
Thanks
Make sure that the Gateway IP is not set up for this other Network Connection, and that the Gateway configuration is only set up for the Network Adapter with the Internet connection.

Go to command shell and TYPE IPCONFIG/ALL and copy paste that info here if your confused about this and we can look over your Gateway info to SUGGEST the specific adapter etc.

Hi, everyone.

I have Time Warner Cable and they provide me with a Scientific-Atlanta Cable Modem (Model: SA DPC2203).
I am using a brand new Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Router (Model: WNDR3400v2).

I don't think I have a problem with the wireless CONNECTION. However, several times a day the internet becomes unavailable.
If I wait for a while, sometimes 5 mins, it rights itself and everything is fine. Other times I have to power CYCLE the modem and the router to restore internet access.

When the internet goes down I can ping both the router and the modem and log into both. The router shows no internet connection.
I don't really understand the modem info, but everything I look at says it is running fine. I found a "log" page on the modem that says
DOCSIS (CM) Events:
Time   ID   Level   Description
 Sat Feb 09 15:49:58 2013      73040100     Notice (6)     TLV-11 - unrecognized OID
 Sat Feb 09 15:49:41 2013      82000200     Critical (3)     No Ranging Response received - T3 time-out
 Sat Feb 09 15:49:34 2013      84000100     Critical (3)     SYNC Timing Synchronization failure - Failed to acquire QAM/Q...
 Sat Feb 09 15:49:32 2013      82000400     Critical (3)     Received Response to Broadcast Maintenance Request, But no Un...
 Sat Feb 09 12:40:27 2013      73040100     Notice (6)     TLV-11 - unrecognized OID
 Sat Feb 09 12:40:17 2013      2436694060     Critical (3)     Booting up the cable modem

and things of this nature. I haven't been able to correlate the downtime with the log messages, but I see the "T3 time-out" a lot around the time things seem to go south. "TLV-11 - unrecognized OID" happens too. But right now I have internet access.

I usually have 8 or 9 devices connected to the wireless router and I never lose the wireless connection.

Does anyone have any ideas how I can convince the cable people they have a problem on their end?

They tell me the problem is the router, and ask that I connect a PC to the modem to prove there is no problem. This is not really practical since there are so many devices using the internet in my home.

I tried running a wscript that just pings and ran that for about 4 hours. With the PC connected directly to the modem I got:
2/9/2013 4:29:05 PM Ping statistics for 74.125.225.72:
2/9/2013 4:29:05 PM     Packets: Sent = 10605, Received = 10529, Lost = 76 (0% loss),
2/9/2013 4:29:05 PM Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
2/9/2013 4:29:05 PM     Minimum = 31ms, Maximum = 100ms, Average = 36ms

There were 76 of these: "2/9/2013 3:50:12 PM Request timed out." in my output.

I ran again for about an hour using the router and got:
2/9/2013 5:55:40 PM Ping statistics for 74.125.225.3:
2/9/2013 5:55:40 PM     Packets: Sent = 3832, Received = 3765, Lost = 67 (1% loss),
2/9/2013 5:55:40 PM Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
2/9/2013 5:55:40 PM     Minimum = 33ms, Maximum = 396ms, Average = 47ms

There were 67 of these: "2/9/2013 5:51:48 PM Request timed out." in my output.

Help!!! Does anyone have any idea what I can do ? Is it the router or the modem?

Thanks,
Dave Lum You wrote...
Quote

I usually have 8 or 9 devices connected to the wireless router and I never lose the wireless connection.

Does anyone have any ideas how I can convince the cable people they have a problem on their end?

I am using a brand new Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Router (Model: WNDR3400v2).

SYNC Timing Synchronization failure - Failed to acquire QAM/Q...

• Downstream Power Level
• Upstream Power Level
• Downstream Signal to Noise Ratio

I've been having strange internet issues on my Windows Vista desktop computer. I have tried to talk to my ISP about it but they haven't given me any help that has resolved the issue.

On the Wireless Network Connection Status window next to "Speed" it fluctuates constantly and the signal also fluctuates constantly when it did not use to do this before and I am getting bad download speeds at times as well which also did not use to occur.

The signal will jump from "Fair" to "Very Good" a lot and will also say "Good" and "Poor" at times. The "Speed" on the Wireless Network Connection Status window used to say 130Mbps and would only fluctuate from 78 to 104 to 117 to 130 Mbps. But now it won't even do that and it will say 13.0, 65, 58.5, 52, 39, and more.

The download speed is being affected. I have tried unplugging my modem for ONE minute and plugging it back in. My ISP has sent new codes to my modem SEVERAL times. There are no viruses or anything like that on my Vista desktop as I have scanned with MalwareBytes and SpyBot.

This seemed to start after I installed WinDirStat because my hard drive space was being taken up by nothing and I was trying to see what was going on. My free space used to be 209GB but now it is only 184GB and I have done nothing to it.

The device for the internet I am using on my Vista desktop is a Dell Wireless WLAN Mini Card 802.11n.

I don't want to restore to factory settings again because the computer is too old to be doing something like that again.

This issue does not seem to be occurring on my Windows 7 laptop. It only seems to occur on the Windows Vista desktop.

If someone on here could help me fix this issue I would really appreciate it.

Thank you.

P.S.: I have also SEARCHED for an update for my driver and Windows said I had the most up-to-date driver.The main factor is quite simply, distance. The further away you are from your ROUTER, the more problems your wireless card will have holding onto the connection. The range of your router very much depends on the model, the specific 802.11 protocol it uses and whether there are any major obstacles between it and your PC. According to About.com, the average range of a router using the 802.11a, 802.11b and 802.11g protocols (the three most common) is 150 FT (46m) indoors and 300ft (82m) outdoors. However, as they point out, there are differences between the protocols and the way they react to different obstacles:

So at my house the internet is fine, but when I BRING my laptop into work it connects to the internet fine, but all it says on any WEBSITE is this page cant be displayed?! Can you fix this and if so how PLEASE?

Thanks Incorrect DNS settings caused the problem, please view your DNS settings. to find out the reason, pls VISIT http://www.ids-sax2.com//Unicorn/Tutorials/How-to-Diagnose-DNS-Error-with-Ax3soft-Unicorn.htm

Hi everybody ,

i have a technical problem which i hope SOMEBODY could answer for me. I have 7 switches and 80% of my computer is running win xp with no dc (domain controller)(all set to RUN in work group)
If i connect my manage switch in series 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 everything is ok but if i connect in 1-2 1-3 1-4 1-5 1-6 1-7 than view workgroup will go missing for my windows xp (unable to browser) (browstat status and browinfo will stop working and not give any respond)
Any suggestion (computer browser is off for almost all pc) for win vista, 7 it is ok can view in any configuration above.
Have tried to set my master browser (in win 2008 and linux server samba) to a higher setting with out any success.


thanks. Quote

If i connect my manage switch in series 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 everything is ok but if i connect in 1-2 1-3 1-4 1-5 1-6 1-7 than view workgroup will go missing for my windows xp (unable to browser) (browstat status and browinfo will stop working and not give any respond)

Hello everyone, I wanted to ask if you could provide recommendations on software that can help protect my wireless network from ATTACKS? If you could kindly provide me with reliable websites or guides, that would be very HELPFUL. THANK you for your help.You don't need any sort of software, just use WPA2 security on the network.Thank you. I'm just a little bit worried about hackers that's why.Don't be - WPA2 is still classed as extremely secure.  Also think of how far your wireless network reaches, someone would have to sit locally trying to get into it and even if they did, there isn't that much damage that they could do.hello you can ask him to simply change the password that would deauthenticate the USERS on the network. Else he may use MAC address filtering to allow specific devices through his network.

Does ANYONE have any experience with 5GHz Wi-Fi? I'm contemplating buying an adapter AC for my PC but I'm not sure if it would be of much use given the range. My router is approximately 10-12 meters away from the PC. Windows claims that I am receiving 5 bars of signal on 2.4GHz but the speed is LIMITED to 2.5mbs So as an ALTERNATIVE I'm considering an antenna instead.

Just for reference my router is a TP-Link Archer C7. Please no "Why don't you use a cable?" suggestions, if I could run a cable I would.You get 5 bars? Only 2.5 Mbps
That does not sound right.
Let me clarify that statement. I mean that I  get about 20 Mbps on a link with only two or three bars. So it must be that something else is reducing your data rate.  Right now I am Internet via a WI-FI link that goes about 15meters and the includes walls and foliage. Still, I watch  Netflix  on it.

So it must be your have some issue that reduces your speed.
 2.5 Megabytes per second max. On a good day (going on what Windows tells me the transfer rate is).

The signal at the moment is ~-50dBm

Hi,
My computer is giving me QUITE a bit of trouble at the moment and I don't know what's causing it. Every now and then the (wired) connection on my PC will just drop, but it isn't happening to my other devices that are connected via wireless. When browsing the internet I will sometimes get the Chrome error: Error code: DNS_PROBE_FINISHED_NO_INTERNET when the connection drops. Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this issue and how I might resolve it? Thanks in advance.

Here's the report of my network settings on my PC:


Windows IP Configuration

   Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : Shandy-PC
   Primary Dns SUFFIX  . . . . . . . :
   Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
   IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
   WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

Wireless LAN adapter Local Area Connection* 12:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft Wi-Fi Direct Virtual Adapter
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 16-66-B3-0D-8D-06
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Ethernet adapter WeOnlyDo:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : WeOnlyDo Network Adapter 2.5
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-FF-C8-98-1D-94
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::c1ea:4ae9:13bc:4f2a%19(Preferred)
   Autoconfiguration IPv4 Address. . : 169.254.79.42(Preferred)
   SUBNET Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.0.0
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . :
   DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 453050312
   DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-18-6C-EE-F6-90-2B-34-A1-02-BD
   DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : fec0:0:0:ffff::1%1
                                       fec0:0:0:ffff::2%1
                                       fec0:0:0:ffff::3%1
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Ethernet adapter Tunngle:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : TAP-Win32 Adapter V9 (Tunngle)
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-FF-C1-04-DB-9C
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Wireless LAN adapter WiFi 3:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : TP-LINK Wireless PCI Express Adapter
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 64-66-B3-0D-8D-06
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 90-2B-34-A1-02-BD
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::8fe:d103:4404:d3e3%3(Preferred)
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.100(Preferred)
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : 25 February 2015 19:44:52
   Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : 11 April 2151 01:23:31
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
   DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
   DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 244329268
   DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-18-6C-EE-F6-90-2B-34-A1-02-BD
   DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:4860:4860::8888
                                       2001:4860:4860::8844
                                       209.244.0.3
                                       209.244.0.4
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Tunnel adapter isatap.{0253C3F7-F16F-43F9-92D7-3512DA8EA5A4}:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter isatap.{C8981D94-2557-458F-ACC5-A3ED69EC1B8F}:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #4
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Have you tried another cable?It seems like you are having DNS problems. First thing I would do is try clearing your DNS cache:

ipconfig /flushdns

If that does not help, then try changing your DNS servers temporarily to Google's (8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4) just to make sure that the DNS server that you are using is not having problems. To do this on windows 7:

    Open Network and SHARING Center.
    Click "Change Adapter Settings".
    Find Network Connection that is used to connect to internet (either "Local Area Connection" or "Wireless Connection"), right-click on it and click Properties.
    Now in new windows select "Internet Protocol 4 (TCP/IPv4)" and click Properties button.
    In the new window click the checkbox for "Use the following DNS server ADDRESSES:"
    Type in 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4
    Click Ok and close the rest of the windows.

After this is done, check your internet connection and if you can open pages.

I have a Dell XPS laptop running Windows 7 Home Premium that will not let other devices on the network ping it. It will however ping any other device it SEES. I have used Fing from my iPad to test this and used the ping command from CMD to test this. It also makes no difference if I am connected via wire or wireless as the results are the same. As far as I am aware all the network settings are set at the default settings. I have not had a reason to ping this laptop from other devices  before so I am not sure if this is a new issue or one that has always been there. I have a school program that I now need to run on my laptop but access through my iPad but can't due to this issue.

The current network setup is just a standard router with out internet access. I have reset the router to default settings with no luck.
I have tried to ping this laptop from other devices on multiple different networks with no luck so I don't think it is a network problem. Additionally my iPad will ping other computers on this network INCLUDING this one and each other computer can ping each other. It is just this one laptop that is being a pain in the *censored*.

I am not that familiar with networking so just let me know what info you need or what you want me to do.

Oh I have ran Malware Bytes and Windows defender and both come up clean.

Thanks in advance for the help.Going out on a limb with this one, but try shutting off the firewall and trying to ping it then. Generally the shut off of ping responses is done on higher level hardware such as cisco firewalls etc. I have never configured my firewall to disable pings, but if you are positive that the IP address of this laptop is UNABLE to be pinged, I'd start with disabling local security to this laptop and see where this leads. *This comes at the risk of exposing your system with no firewall so be careful in this process!!!DAVE,

Turning off the firewall did allow this laptop to be pinged. I am not sure why my firewall wouldn't let me ping it before. I reset the firewall to windows default settings just in case something had gotten changed but still no luck with the firewall on.Now that we know its a Firewall config issue...

What is the program your trying to run... have you added the program to the firewall exceptions to allow for a port or multiple ports to be opened? The software is  ACE's School Management system. Yes I have told the system to allow this program access through the firewall.So any idea what to do Dave? Hello mroilfield,

WELL first check if the rule is properly set in your firewall.

From the Start menu, search for Windows Firewall with Advanced Security. Click it to bring up the application.

From the left pane, click Inbound Rules.

In the right pane, find the rules titled File and Printer Sharing (Echo Request - ICMPv4-In).

Right-click each rule and choose Enable Rule.

Get back if issues persists Liquid

That worked for the pinging issues.

Thanks very muchWelcome mate !

Ok so normally I'm good with computers but this time I'm stumped....I have TRIED everything I can think of.......
**Does anyone on here know how to stop my wireless internet connection on laptop from coming up as "Unidentified network" ?
PLEASE as internet won't work unless I plug a Ethernet cable in..
My wireless WORKS with another laptop and iPads and iPods in the house hello danny did you initiate a password change on your router lately? If yes CHANCES could be you are connecting AUTOMATICALLY with the same credentials that were set before.

I have 10 COMPUTERS CONNECTED to a server I have to apply restrictions for STUDENTS in an institute KINDLY ANYONE please guide me.

Thanks.

So this last weekend I began to have some networking problems with my computer and happening almost randomly. Since I haven't had a virus protector for a month or so, I decided to purchase one thinking that could have been the source of the problem. I did a full scan and restarted my computer but LATER on it was back to where I started. This usually happens when I try to do something with more usage of my internet (opening pages are fine, but loading videos or playing games causes trouble). I opened up task manager and looked at what speed I was receiving; the DOWNLOAD would just bounce up and down. At some POINT the download would just SHUT off for a period of time. I never had a time where the internet was stable. I even uninstalled a couple of the software a recently downloaded and that didn't fix anything too. I also attempted to connect to my hot spot and it wouldn't even connect.

I'm having trouble believing that this could be a hardware problem on my computer since I just recently build my computer (4 months ago) with a strong wireless adapter with great specs and has been working fine ever since. I would also like to point out that it seems my computer is the only device that is having this problem. So... What do I do?

Other info:
OS: Windows 8
Network Down: 6 Up: .5 (I know, could be nicer )
Virus Protector: Norton
Let me know if I'm missing anything that is needed to help resolve this. Thanks!
These pictures show me just trying to load a web page.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space] Quote

strong wireless adapter with great specs

Hello every one I have a lenovo thinkpad edge E530c.And my wireless hardware radio switch is off,and I can't turn it on no matter what, I've tried the keyboard switch windows mobility center(the on/off button is grey), I checked the drivers uninstalled and reinstalled them.So if anyone knows the REASON why or the SOLUTION ,I would really appreciate if anyone would respond.This can be caused by one of many possibilities:

1.) Wrong, bad or missing driver
2.) Problem with the OS that causes the NIC to malfuncton
3.) Hardware issue with damaged switch
4.) Hardware issue with damaged wireless adapter

Have you verified that in Hardware Manager the Wireless Adapter looks to be healthy without ant Red or YELLOW warnings etc?Yes i have i also scaned for changes disabled and enabled the driver ,but the switch remains greyIs the network adapter healthy in hardware management?I've checked but it says that "device is working properly".Options are pretty limited... you can back up your data to an external drive and then rebuild the system clean from image that came with the computer. All other options at this point are going to come at a cost to replace hardware pieces until solved, I would rebuild it clean to make sure its not a Windows caused problem and that its a true hardware problem. Also with the cost of wireless adapters these days that fit flush in a USB slot, it might make sense if the hardware is bad for wireless to just buy a $15 wireless USB NIC for this computer if the wireless is dead that came with the computer. I have bought a few of these for people who were using PCMCIA Network adapters which were cards hanging out the side of their laptops that they complained were a pain to have to remove and reinsert and have to WORRY about BUMPING them and breaking them.  I have 3 of these and they work well, even on an old Pentium III laptop it works on USB 1.1 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315091&cm_re=usb_edmax-_-33-315-091-_-Product

Note: These adapters work well around a strong wifi signal, but if your signal is weak you will want to get one that has an antenna as for signals of 2 bars or less seem to have communication issues, most likely because of the fact that the antenna is so small in these that they receive well, but the transmission distance is limited. If you have a 3 bar or stronger signal to connect to your probably fine with one of these.DaveLembke thank you for your time, and your very helpfull answers.

With respesct Radioswitch

I am using linksys wrt54g ROUTER and its working just fine with my all devices but won't CONNECT with my XBOX. I don't where is the PROBLEM. Is there any steps should i check it?

ok, i cant figure this one out and have spent the last 3 hours scouring the internet and trying different things but to no avail
I currently have 2 systems side by side. This one i am on now is windows xp media, the one next to me that has the problem is windows xp.
I was upgrading my video card from an nvidia 5200 to a visiontek agp x1300. Had a couple problems doing that but figured everything out no problem, except i cant connect to internet and my network is not showing up. First thing i tried just to make sure cable wasn't bad was i switched the network cables and had same problem only on that computer. After reading on the internet which i can access using this computer i managed to find out i have no network connection present. No matter what i try i cannot bring it back. I've tried the network connection manager. tried winsockxpfix, tried several other things and i'm lost.......I need serious help please. Turn off computer. Disconnect router, and modem from power source for 30 seconds.
Power them back on.
Restart computer.

If that doesn't work, bypass router, and connect computer straight to the modem.

If that doesn't work...
Go Start>Run (Start search in Vista), type in:
cmd
Click OK (in Vista, while holding CTRL, and SHIFT, press Enter).

In Command Prompt window, type in FOLLOWING commands, and hit Enter after each one:
ipconfig /flushdns
ipconfig /registerdns
ipconfig /release
ipconfig /renew

Restart computer.

If that doesn't work...
Go Start>Run (Start search in Vista), type in:
cmd
Click OK (in Vista, while holding CTRL, and SHIFT, press Enter).

At Command Prompt, type in:
netsh int ip reset reset.log
Hit Enter.
Type in:
netsh winsock reset catalog
Hit Enter.

Restart computer.


If that doesn't work...
Download, install, and run WinSockFix: http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/Network-Tweak/WinSockFix.shtml
Restart computer, and check again.first of all thank you for the help.
I just did all that and nothing worked. I think the problem happened when i deleted the drivers for the nvivia card, but i dont think that would make sense...?
Anyway, I'm the type that likes to STICK with a problem until it gets fixed, but unless you have any tricks up your sleeve i think i might go buy a pci network card tomorrow. Do you think that will work?
Another question i have is i was thinking about wiping everything clean with a fresh xp install. I do not have the disk but the system is an hp and i have the recovery console on drive :d, do you recommend that and would that fix the problem?
thanks a bunchReinstall would be little bit extreme at this moment.
Any errors regarding network adapter in Device Manager?
Did you try to reinstall network adapter driver?no errors, but i did try to reinstall the network drivers.  It tells the original drivers are stored in C:\hp\drivers\lan, but i already know that as i am in that folder and try to install by using the install.exe. Then it tells me to install the driver through the device manager, which i tried but either it wont let me or i dont know what im doing at that point. But there definitely is no network connection in device manager.Also, in device manager i now have 3 pci devices listed under other devices.....and i cant  install the network drivers because there is no network device listed in device manager.....
very frustratingwell, im doing some more reading trying to figure this out and booted into safe MODE. I can see network adapters in device manager (cannot see any when booted normal). There are 8 listed.
1. direct parallel
2. realtek rtl8139/810x family fast ethernet nic-packet scheduler
3. wan miniport (atw)
4. wan miniport (ip)
5. wan miniport (ip) - packet scheduler miniport
6. wan miniport (L2tp)
7. wan miniport (ppoe)
8. wan miniport (pptp)
Download, and install Everest: http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
Open it, click Computer, then Summary.
In upper menu, go Report>Quick Report-Summary
Save it in text file, and paste it in your next post.
Don't include anything under the line Debug - PCI Also, i dont know if this is important but i noticed something in the startup folder called mod_sm......i've never seen that before...now when i booted up normal that file is gone, so i guess it was some type of moddified startup when booting safe modeso what do you think...any ideas to fix this?Did you read my last reply?shoot...i dont know how i missed that....doing it now--------[ EVEREST Home EDITION (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

    Version                                           EVEREST v2.20.405
    Homepage                                          http://www.lavalys.com/
    Report Type                                       Quick Report
    Computer                                          ED
    Generator                                         Owner
    Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
    Date                                              2009-02-28
    Time                                              00:05


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Computer:
      Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
      OS Service Pack                                   Service Pack 2
      DirectX                                           4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
      Computer Name                                     ED
      User Name                                         Owner

    Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                          Intel Pentium 4, 3000 MHz (15 x 200)
      Motherboard Name                                  Asus P4SD-LA  (3 PCI, 1 AGP, 4 DDR DIMM, Audio, Video, LAN)
      Motherboard Chipset                               Intel Springdale-G i865G
      System Memory                                     2048 MB  (PC2700 DDR SDRAM)
      BIOS Type                                         AMI (11/19/03)
      Communication Port                                Communications Port (COM1)
      Communication Port                                ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

    Display:
      Video Adapter                                     VisionTek RADEON X1300XT Secondary  (256 MB)
      Video Adapter                                     VisionTek RADEON X1300XT  (256 MB)
      3D Accelerator                                    ATI RV530 VE
      Monitor                                           ViewSonic VP191b  [19" LCD]  (A1W050523483)

    Multimedia:
      Audio Adapter                                     Intel 82801EB ICH5 - AC'97 Audio Controller [A-2/A-3]

    Storage:
      IDE Controller                                    Intel(R) 82801EB Ultra ATA Storage Controllers
      IDE Controller                                    Intel(R) 82801EB Ultra ATA Storage Controllers
      SCSI/RAID Controller                              A347SCSI SCSI Controller
      Floppy Drive                                      Floppy disk drive
      Disk Drive                                        ST3160021A  (160 GB, 7200 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB SD Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB CF Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB SM Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB MS Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic STORAGE DEVICE USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic STORAGE DEVICE USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic STORAGE DEVICE USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic STORAGE DEVICE USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Seagate FreeAgent USB Device  (465 GB, USB)
      Optical Drive                                     HP DVD Writer 300n  (DVD:4x/2.4x/8x, CD:16x/10x/40x DVD+RW)
      Optical Drive                                     JLMS XJ-HD166S  (16x/48x DVD-ROM)
      SMART Hard Disks Status                           OK

    Partitions:
      C: (NTFS)                                         146925 MB (117892 MB free)
      D: (FAT32)                                        5681 MB (976 MB free)
      O: (NTFS)                                         476937 MB (468246 MB free)
      Total Size                                        614.8 GB (573.4 GB free)

    Input:
      Keyboard                                          HID Keyboard Device
      Mouse                                             HID-compliant mouse

    Peripherals:
      Printer                                           Broderbund PDF Converter 2.10d
      Printer                                           Brother MFC-490CW Printer
      Printer                                           Brother PC-FAX v.2
      Printer                                           CutePDF Writer
      Printer                                           Fax
      Printer                                           QuickBooks PDF Converter
      Printer                                           QuoteWerks PDF Generator
      USB1 Controller                                   Intel 82801EB ICH5 - USB Controller [A-2/A-3]
      USB1 Controller                                   Intel 82801EB ICH5 - USB Controller [A-2/A-3]
      USB1 Controller                                   Intel 82801EB ICH5 - USB Controller [A-2/A-3]
      USB1 Controller                                   Intel 82801EB ICH5 - USB Controller [A-2/A-3]
      USB2 Controller                                   Intel 82801EB ICH5 - Enhanced USB2 Controller [A-2/A-3]
      USB Device                                        Unknown Device
      USB Device                                        USB Composite Device
      USB Device                                        USB Human Interface Device
      USB Device                                        USB Human Interface Device
      USB Device                                        USB Mass Storage Device
      USB Device                                        USB Mass Storage Device
      USB Device                                        USB Mass Storage DeviceI can't see any wireless network adapter listed.
You have regular adapter listed in your Device Manager: realtek rtl8139/810x family fast ethernet, but nothing wireless.
See, if Everest says something in Network section.
Have you ever been able to connect wirelessly?

As the title says, I am looking into use my desktop as an access point, or just purchasing an access point for my bedroom. The problem is, our WiFi signal is very, very weak in my bedroom that it is almost useless, but it works just fine anywhere else in the house. I have used a Belkin USB dual band WiFi adapter as an access point on here, but it would stop working that way and not want to do it again unless I restarted the computer. So my question is, pretty straight forward, what would be best? Directions to products will also help. Thanks for any and all help you guys can give me.Not all home network products are equal. A few Wi-Fi DEVICES ca be either the AP or the client.

The best solution is to run a Ethernet cable from you main router to a basic Access point.  The trick is to turn off the DHCP of the  of  the new device.

But APs some times  overpriced as $50 and up. You can buy a reworked LINKSYS router with DD-WRT for about $30 and make it do almost anything except make coffee.
I've found some on Amazon that are under $40.00. I've also tried the Lynksys trick but to no avail. Here's the one I've been using for several years and am very happy with it: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA901ND-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater/dp/B002YETVXC Have to agree with ALLAN; I use the same AP (which can be used as a universal repeater, standard AP, wireless adapter [yep! That's right!], and more) at my work. I think I have about 30 of them up across 3 warehouses for agricultural operations. The removable antennas (which already boast 5Dbi each) let you really unleash its potential, should you choose to

The web interface is also quite gentle for people that don't want to spend a lot of time setting things up or configuring- it has a hot spot search utility that scans for available networks to connect to (this is for repeating and wireless adapter modes). Simply setup the proper security/encryption in the wireless security setup tab (that's is, enter the password/pass phrase and encryption type of the router/AP READY setup in your house), select the AP you wish to connect to, and it does the rest.

And no, I don't work for, nor ever have worked for TP-Link, they just make a solid product! Mist3rdisc0, very good post! thanks for sharing.  Thanks for all the help guys. Now, I have another question. I'm just going to be using this for the bedroom I am in, could I get away with getting the N150 version or should I spend the extra money and get the one you suggested? Because, LIKE I said, everywhere else seems to get a signal from the router except this one room.The N150 model (I believe) comes with only 2 antennas versus 3 on the N300 model. While you could likely "get away" with using the lower end model, I would personally recommend against under the logic that it's not much more expensive for the N300 model, and the N300 model should give better data transmission speeds and signal. I can't say that I have any hands-on experience with the N150 model, but it's essentially the same as the N300 but with reduced transmission speed and signal range. Both models should have the same firmware and same Web Inteface options. Hope this helps Plenty of help actually. Thank you so much for your input. I think I will go with the one you suggested. I agree, the better speeds would benefit more so than the lesser of the 2. Thanks again everyone for your help.You're most welcome! Glad we could help you find a solution!

Hey guys
So my home network is just being a *censored* nightmare lately. My entire family is riding my a$$ about fixing it and noone knows anything about technology so explaining things to them is bringing me to my witts end.
Where to start?

1)my current connection speed BLOWS. my ISP is Shaw Communications, and we are SUPPOSED to have among their top tier of internet packages. I am trying to download some Bloomberg software currently, and i cant because the downloads die after about 0.5 seconds (they get caught up at like 0.4MB). I did a speedtest (vie speedtest.net) and its doing some weird stuff.
For starters, when it runs the 'download speed' test, it just fails miserably. The first time i did it, it topped out around 99BPS, but then slowly dropped off by 0.01BPS per second continually until i got pissed and stopped it. It never completed the assessment. The second time, it topped out at around 5 (FIVE!?)BPS, and did the same thing
2)our modem is a Cisco DPC3825 (wifi disabled), hooked up to a D-Link DIR835 router. My brother has an ASUS RT-N53 router in his room that i tried to set up in "repeater node" because i am in the basement with the router/modem and the SIGNAL strength on the main floor (his room) sucks.
            Side Note: My dad talked to shaw yesterday and they said if my brother has aquariums in his room (he has two massive ones) that could affect wifi signal strength as well.
3)our wifi signal strength sucks in general. When i tried to set up the ASUS in repeater mode, all it did was make a second network with a '-2.4' suffix, and the signal strength still sucks.
4)There are 3 hardlines running to my dads OFFICE, my desktop and my ps4 from the MODEM, and another 3 hardlines running up to my brother's room (and the ASUS router) from the D-Link router.
5)There is a LOT of devices using our wifi network in the house;
-5 smart phones
-2 smart tvs
-2 printers
-3-5 laptops/desktop computers depending on who is home
-3 tablets
-3 SONOS HIFI speaker systems

Please, for the love of god, someone help my nuke this network and set it up from scratch? Nothing seems to be compatible, the signal strength sucks all around, hardlined or wired, which SHOULD NOT given my dad pays for one of the higher end packages.
Did you check or tried DIRECTLY with the modem first then work all the way to the extended router? Run a speedtest directly connnected to the modem and see if its not the problem.Seriously think about another Internet provider.
Yes, you do have a lot of stuff connected, but seldom do you have it all working. With a bandwidth (speed) of near 25 mega bits per second you can be streaming video on two devices and surfing on others. A good ISP should give you near 25 mega bits per second.
From my own experience the wireless repeater thing is not a good idea. Instead, you do it like this:
Run an Ethernet cable from the modem to a wireless router. That is the main router. Position it for the beset wireless results in part of the house. The use a Ethernet cable to run to another router in the far part of the house. If needed, run the cable outside than b and  back in to avoid running over the walls.  The second router can do wireless on another channel. Favored channels are 1, 6 and 11. But other combinations are alright. Just not two channels very close. Make them about 4 or 5 numbers apart. Like 2 and  7 or maybe  5 and 9. But don't expect t  highest data rates. There is some slight interference when two wireless devices things cover the same area.
Aquarium? Fish sorties?  Hardly!
Cordless phone, when in use may cause some interference at close range.
Let us know what you find. I think you have to start with the ISP company.

unfortunately my dad is the one who pays the bills and hes too stubborn to ditch shaw (FML). I think it is a problem with the modem though. It is just plain screwy:
my dad has an ethernet cable running to his office hooked into the modem. that works fine.
My desktop is hooked in (now) and it doesnt work. My computer recognizes that its plugged in and it spends forever in the "identifying" stage until it times out.
The Dlink router is hooked into the modem, and the modem is flashing orange for the port that the router is hooked into, however the router seems to be working ok (is broadcasting a wifi signal, though weakly) and i am able to hook my desktop into the router port and it works (Speedtest results for that setup: 106.58Mbps/download, 5.48Mbps/upload).
NOTE: the second router IS hooked up via ethernet to the first router. we ran a cable all through the house. Should i switch that router to the modem as well, and set up a second network? (dictation )
All right, let's try to fix this problem with the information you have already provided. Apparently your modem also has a four port Ethernet switch. Is that correct? If so, that means that the modem is taking charge of the DHCP and the second device, your D–Link router, needs to be properly configured to get things working right. One option is to plug the output of the modem into the WAN jack of your D-Link router. That can work if the second device is on a different subnet.
If both devices, the router and the modem, are on the same subnet, only one could manage the DHCP. Also, the modem and the router must have separate static IP addresses.
For example:
modem IP=192.168.1.1
router IP=192.168.1.2
in that case, both devices are in the subnet, whose BASE address is 192.168.1.0
of course, there are other possibilities. There are wide variations in the base address, but most commonly it's at the bottom in of the available addresses used for LA N.
What makes this kind of stuff annoying is when you turn off the DHCP. With it off, you could have a hard time making changes or settings to either the modem or the router. Hopefully that will not happen if things are done in the right order. Or just to not turn off DHCP, unless it is required.
Sorry I'm not able to give you a complete tutorial on how to type II routers together in the same network. There are lots of details that are difficult to cover for every situation. Most of the time it's not too hard, but if you don't get it right. The performance is either nonexistent or very very poor.
Here is a link for general information about how to put him him router behind the modem that manages DHCP.
Reference:

How to Connect Two Routers
ya i ended up throwing in the towel haha. I called shaw and had them toy with the modem so that it is now using its internal router, i unplugged both of the other routers, and am WAITING on an appointment with the geek squad to come and set it all up for me. thanks for everyones input though! I just dont have the know-how for this kind of task and will probably only make things worse

i see many front query and PROXY servers using for FREE net in mobile. I WANT to create my own front query PLEASE HELP me Hi!
For what you want you need buy some proxy.. the cheapest one is http://buy.fineproxy.org/eng/We aren't going to help you rip off your network operator...

Hi.

Ive been trying to share files between my windows 8 x64 laptop and my windows xp x86 desktop.  They are on the same workgroup, both computers can see and ping eachother, and my windows 8 machine is sharing a printer from the xp machine.  The windows 8 machine does not appear in My Network Places on the xp machine however, and when I go to access the windows 8 machine from the workgroup map on xp, it asks me for a password.  This is particularly strange as I dont use a password on either machine, so there is no password!  I do NOT want to resort to using OneDrive unless absolutely necessary.

If anyone could give me a hand with this, I would be grateful.

Cheers   

FeenixSharing files between windows 7 and windows XP
You must have file sharing sharing TURNED on. Try shearing a small folder. In windows XP there is a folder called 'shared documents' and you can set it for sharing on the network. Set up a user that has a password. Use that to log into the windows 7 computer.
For more info, here is a link:
Sharing files between windows 7 and windows XP
This has been covered before on CH forum.
Earlier posts about Windows 7 and XP file sharing.
Does that help?
Hi

Was looking for help with windows 8/xp rather than windows 7/xp.  Didnt have a problem with windows 7/xp, just windows 8 being a pain...My bad. Somehow I thought you were ruing windows 7.
The link below is a more broad coverage of the issue.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/sharing-files-printers-help#sharing-files-and-printers=windows-xp&v1h=win81tab1&v2h=win7tab1&v3h=winvistatab1&v4h=winxptab1
Quote

If all the PCs on your network are RUNNING Windows 7, Windows 8.1, or Windows RT 8.1, we recommend creating a homegroup instead of using this tutorial. It gives you a much easier way to share files and printers on a HOME network. For a step-by-step tutorial on creating and using a homegroup, see HomeGroup from start to finish.

I have a laptop that connects to the internet fine
I had a Samsung S3 which also connected wifi to TPG fine but is dead and buried now

I have replaced the S3 with a Cube Tablet which seems GOOD except when I TRIED contacting TPG wifi it shows AUTHENTICATING PROBLEM

I Googled it and it seems a very common problem without an answer

H E L P please

trevlam4101

My router is a NETGEAR model supplied by AT&T.  7550.  All other wireless devices (4 iphones, three ipads, 1 Ethernet connected desktop, and TWO wireless laptops) work fine with wireless router, but my HP laptop (HP Pavilion 17-c017dx Notebook (energy star)) running win 8.1 is allowed only one login.  If I shut down the laptop and restart it the router will NOT CONNECT with it.  I can always just reboot router but its a headache that must have an easy fix in configuration.  on laptop with issue DHCP is enabled on private profile, Norton AV, REaltek wireless adapter,  WPA2 Personal, AES ENCRYPTION.  Thanks In Advance for any tips or solutions!

I am trying to make a switch from wireless internet connection to wired. I have connected an ethernet cable to the router and my PC. While plugged in, the GREEN light is on in the socket to show that there is a successful connection. I have tried a few different things to force my PC (Windows 7) to draw from the wired connection over the wireless and can't seem to get it right.

My most recent method I've tried is as described in this link: http://helpdeskgeek.com/networking/force-windows-7-to-use-wired-connection-over-wireless/#comment-581711

Everything is fine until I get to where I am supposed to have a "LAN Network Connection" tab which simply does not exist on my computer or for some reason cannot be found.

Have I been using the wrong methods? Is it a faulty cable/wrong cable perhaps? Am I overlooking something?
EDIT: I tried switching ethernet cables and the problem persists.
ADDITIONAL EDIT: There are two other desktops connected to this network successfully via cable.

Here's a Speccy summary of my PC:
Operating System
   Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
   AMD FX-8120   19 °C
   Zambezi 32nm Technology
RAM
   8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 671MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
   GIGABYTE Technology Co., Ltd. GA-990XA-UD3 (Socket M2)   27 °C
Graphics
   VX2270 SERIES ([email protected])
   1279MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570 (EVGA)   44 °C
Storage
   59GB M4-CT064M4SSD2 ATA Device (SSD)
   596GB Western Digital WDC WD6400AAKS-22A7B2 ATA Device (SATA)   33 °C
   15GB hp v165w USB Device (USB)
Optical Drives
   TSSTcorp DVD+-RW TS-H653A ATA Device
Audio
   High Definition Audio Device

Any feedback is appreciated.You must disable the wireless adapter.
And you MUS tenable the Ethernet adapter.
Go into control panel and find the network area. Locate your network adapters.
But if for some reason you can not enable the Ethernet, look at this:
Cannot enable the Network Adapter (Windows 7)
Does that help?

That link would appear to help, but its just when I get to step (d.) there is no LAN Connection for me to click on.
That is essentially the problem I guess. Its somehow not seeing the wired connection. My roomate is running the same OS, and in his connections there is a LAN Connection option. I'll post a screenshot.This is what I'm looking at.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Yeah, it only shows your wireless.
Get you motherboard manual and look and see what chip set your have. Normally, Windows 7 should have found all the drivers for all your devices. The motherboard came with a CD of drivers, - right?  You may need to install the drivers again.
The BIOS may have an option to disable on board devices. The Ethernet device might be set to off.
Here is a post that sounds like your problem.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/332769-30-gigabyte-970a-ethernet-cable-problem
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update your driver from gigabyte official website.
change LAN cable to make sure the cable is not a problem.
check on-board LAN is enable and no other option blocks it in bios.
before checking bios, try clear CMOS  and return all default, and change what you need.

I tried ftp explorer and don't work. It used to work.
Then I tried Filezilla and no go. I tried the test- https://ftptest.net/
That says my ip is to slow.I checked with wildblue and no answer.
I need a ftp before I get a host.I'm confused.
FTP does not use the HTTP protocol.  Why are you using HTTPS in the URL?Like I said I'm confused. How do I get and use a ftp client? I just want to practice and
then get a host to put a small web site page. I'm learning.What are you actually TRYING to do?  What are you trying to connect to?

Quote from: jacobixxx8 on January 19, 2015, 03:17:16 PM

I need a ftp before I get a host.I'm confused.

The web hosting you are talking about is my internet provider, right ?
If it doesn't support ftp client I suppose my IP is inadequet. Their must be some other way to
be able to use ftp. 5 years ago I had dialup IP and it worked good.

First off I would like to point out that I'm not good with networking.

OK, so I recently decided to connect an old USB hard drive to my router to store films on. The PCs have no PROBLEM accessing the files from the network drive, however the DVD player would only work if I set up a media server. The problem that I'm encountering is that only one file is appearing on the media server. I originally thought that the file types were the problem but converting a video to the same format as the one working video made no difference. So now I'm confused.

Any helpful suggestions or theories?

Router is a TP-Link Archer C7Is this one file that is seen by the DVD player located at the root of the drive, lowest LEVEL such as if the drive was Z: the file would be within the root of that drive at say Z:\video.avi whereas videos that are not found by the DVD player are located in directory trees where the DVD player MAY not have the ability to navigate depth to access these at say Z:\videos\christmas2014.avi

If this is the case, then you can locate all videos at the root of the drive.

Also I have heard of some players getting choked up on file size where say a 100MB file will play fine, but a 4GB file will not play, and this is because the player reads in the video to local memory before playing because it can not buffer on the fly the data, so if a video exceeds the internal memory of the player then it doesnt matter what format the video is, its clearly too large to be played.

If this were the case then you would want to use a software package such as Wild Media Server to share videos from computer to the player which would stream and buffer the data between the player and the computer.  Someone here pointed me to this program when i was having troubles and it works really well. http://www.wildmediaserver.com/There has been a development actually, It turns out that I have to refresh the router every time a new file is added. I've still had no luck with other file types other than .avi, and my conversion attempt did not work out well. It's not just the DVD player, if accessed via windows media player the PC's also only show .avi's

So I think that the problem is limited to COMPATIBLE file types, but what are they? The manual was unhelpful.

Also does anyone know a good way of finding out how a video was encoded? Not that I know what the DVD player supports lol.


Good suggestion on the software approach but this requires a PC set up to do the job and I'm not desperate for this to work I'm just attempting to take advantage of all my router's features.Check the manual for your router: http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/Archer_C7_V3_UG.pdf, section 4.10 USB Settings, pg 74.  It explains how to setup the USB with folder sharing (All or selected) and also how to enable Media Sharing.

If you are using Windows Media Player, you may need to download codecs in order to play other media types.  Many people use VLC instead as it already has codecs for about any media type there is.

I have no IDEA what media types your DVD player supports.Ok as it turns out the problem was with an unconventional DLNA protocol which TP-link were using in the original firmware that my router was shipped with. All sorted though after a firmaware update. The particular feature was mentioned in the update brief but I had no idea what DLNA meant so I didn't realise that it would be helpful.

So if you encounter media server problems from your router, be sure to check with your manufacturer for updates relating to DLNA protocols. Quote

So if you encounter media server problems from your router, be sure to check with your manufacturer for updates relating to DLNA protocols.