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Solve : Toshiba (L355D-S7901) laptop all black screen, turns on, though.? |
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Answer» Oookay, so I've creeped through google and here a bit, but didn't see anyone else having quite my problem I guess... and all the things i've tried haven't worked. Replace the CMOS battery...part #CR2032...available anywhere. This is actually a laptop, so it would actually be a small battery pack instead of a 2032 usually, although I have seen 2032's heatshrink wrapped with a plug on a short length of wire before on some older Dells so its not completely impossible for it to not be a 2032, but 99% chance its not a 2032 battery in the laptop, and if it is a 2032 that is in a shrink wrap with a small cable coming out of it, its best to buy the exact replacement than to boil the battery trying to solder the 2 wires to + and - on top and bottom side. If I had to install a 2032 or convert to a 2032, I think I would get a 2032 button/coin cell socket off of an old motherboard or buy one new and solder to the socket the correct polarity and then either shrink wrap, hot glue, or electrical tape to seal it up so that it couldnt short against anything inside the laptop as well as add 2 sided tape to affix it from being loose inside. All you need really is 3V ... in total desperation ( with a desktop computer) a while back ( 15 years ago ) I used 2 x AA batteries with a AA Battery Cradle from Radio Shack for a 486 computer when the Lithium that was soldered directly to the motherboard died. cut the 2 legs off the leaking lithium then bought for $1.95 at Radio Shack a 2 x AA black plastic battery cradle, then just wire up + to + and - to - and add 2 x AA batteries for 1.5V x 2 = 3V and i used the sticky velcro that i had available to stick it to the side of the power supply. But I agree that the CMOS battery is bad if its losing its date/time.Ahh, thanks y'all. Err, I'm not too sure what kinda battery this is exactly? I don't see ANY numbers, letters, anything. (I guess I shoulda got out my good camera, but there's not much to it anyway.) I'm guessing this is what I need? http://us.ebid.net/for-sale/sanyo-ml1220-tj1-rechargeable-coin-cell-w-2-pin-vertical-mount-96862922.htm And... Solder it? [attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]This is hilarious. But ignore the funny part. The last shows how to open a Toshiba and get to the CMOS cell. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYKmbroqmOg Also see: http://www.retrevo.com/search/v2/jsp/mytrevo/myTrevo.jsp?page=man OR http://www.manualowl.com/p/Toshiba/Satellite-L355D-S7901/Manual/166592 The first one did not work for me. The info suggests s the battery is not REPLACEABLE. Unfortunately, mine isn't that easy to get to the battery.. lol I know how to get to it though.. I just did, and took a (bad) picture *censored*. It's totally replaceable. Maybe not easily, but still. Quote from: Sammii on July 29, 2014, 01:01:45 PM Unfortunately, mine isn't that easy to get to the battery.. lolSoldering temperatures are in the 450°F to 650°F range. If a component is not soldered, do not try to solder it. Instead, use an alternative method of attachment. Mechanical clip, spot weld or superconductive adhesive are alternatives to solider. I would suggest liquid solder used very carefully. You have never seen a pack assembled by a cell manufacturer or any other pack manufacturer where CONNECTIONS are soldered directly to a cell. There is a reason. Quote General Electric Nickel Cadmium Battery Application Manual [Library ofYeah, I know you can't solder batteries.... but the little tab things? To connect to the board? For a second? I'd definitely like to use something more like liquid solder, or something. If anybody thinks they know how to solder to a small battery, here is the tesat. Hold a copper penny between the thumb and index of the left had. With your right hand and your teeth use a small solder iron to tack a wire to the penny using low temperature solder. It has lead, might be hard to find. If you have to drop the penny after twenty seconds.. you lose! Never exactly heard it described that way... My guess is that Geek has tried this test I have been tested as well with other stuff working in electronics shops etc where people show off their skills and those who have a high tolerance for pain or nerve damage might succeed with the soldering of the penny and say ... see i did it! LOL The one test I would never do that some did to show off in electronics manufacturing was wetting your finger and dipping it in and out of MOLTEN lead in the solder pot quickly which was used for tinning thru hole components for mil-spec builds where not just specific parts had to be used, but they also had to be retinned before installation in PCB's. A wet finger protected you from getting burned if you did it fast enough as the lead wouldnt stick to your skin and you would have a poof of steam, as well as you wouldnt be burned or blistered. ((( Do not try this at home ))) That was a stupid test. The best test was a series of resistors all soldered in a box ( cube ) form and telling the new ET to solve the resistance from corner to corner of the resistor cube which was a 3D cube of resistors soldered together without cheating with a multimeter. Do the math for all resistors parallel and in series and give your answer, where those in parallel drop the resistance and those in series add the ohms. Nothing like making the green horn ET break a sweat to show he has the skills freshly hired out of college or off the street to solve a ohms law problem with all the resistors part of the equation. those who were successful didnt waste their time staring at the cube and wrote down what the cube would be in 2D as a circuit and then solved that on paper!..LOLBy the way this battery if its the same one you have in your laptop: http://us.ebid.net/for-sale/sanyo-ml1220-tj1-rechargeable-coin-cell-w-2-pin-vertical-mount-96862922.htm It should be pretty easy to solder in. However I'd take a pair of dikes and cut the legs off the old battery. then solder the new battery to the old legs in respect to the proper polarity!!! This cutting of the legs of the component will protect you from overheating the board and damaging any internal traces that are connected to the 3VDC battery. * Just be sure the tip of the dike doesnt dig into the board surface and you are only cutting the old battery legs off to be able to apply the new battery in place of it. *** If you were really skilled at soldering for removing and replacing components with solder sucker etc, i'd go the route of a complete removal, but many people out there struggle to remove parts without damaging the board that they are in. Common problem is overheating the barrel and burning the board as well as ripping the barrel out of the board that the leg is stuffed into, or breaking a via and you end up with an open circuit. More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_%28electronics%29Coool. Ah, makes sense. Thanks :3 I think it's the same... It's the closest thing I've seen to mine anywhere. Someone recommended it for my laptops model on some other page. I'm not skilled. I've maybe soldered something once awhileee ago. But, i'm not a idiot (I like to think) + my dad knows more about this, and was an electrician for a bit so.... I should get enough help all around to do it. Is it a better idea to get a lower heat iron? (or lower Watt)Buy one with solder tabs. CR2032 Lithium Battery with Solder Tabs At Amazon it sells for under $4 plus shipping . Dear OP, please give up on the idea of using a solder iron. Yes, some of us hobbyists do it all the time, even though we know better. It is like a challenge. Like shaving with a hunting knife. A macho thing.so... I'm supposed to get a battery with solder tabs, but not solder it? How's it supposed to attach, then? (and that battery wouldn't work, the two tabs need to be next to each other. I'm quite sure I already posted a link to a battery with solder tabs, in the right place, that will work though) Meh, now i'm getting pretty determined. I'll most likely obviously practice on something not important first to figure it out more, though. |
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