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Quote from: soybean on April 26, 2013, 12:29:44 PM

I believe Windows Live MovieMaker is a standard app in Windows 8.  Do you not have it?  Have you looked the "All apps" view?

Thanks CC. I can certainly see why some people are frustrated. I just found out the Windows MovieMaker won't work on Windows 8 even though it allowed me to DOWNLOAD it.

No, I didn't. I just searched and downloaded it. I'll check to see if I have that app.

Here's one REFERENCE I think you'll find very helpful.  http://adrynalyne.blogspot.com/2012/09/windows-8-survival-guide-v-10.html

Every new computer with Windows 8 should COME with a basic user guide to Windows 8.  Shame on manufacturers who don't do this.  My HP also had tile/app on the Start screen which contained a series of videos on using Windows 8.  I believe all those videos are on youtube.  If you go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idzmza-OWTE&feature=player_embedded (one of the videos embedded in the app on aforementioned app on my HP laptop) you can watch it and numerous other videos that should appear on the right side of that youtube page. 

Windows 8 has two "views" of Internet Explorer.  If you click the IE tile on the Start screen, IE will open in the full-screen "modern view" which occupies the full scree.  The other view of IE is the more familiar view that you would see in Windows 7.  To open it, you need to go to the Desktop; there, you'll see the familiar IE icon on the taskbar.  If you have not yet discovered the Desktop tile on the Start screen and you do not yet know how to access the Desktop, you can just type Desktop anywhere on the Start screen and you'll see a box appear with Desktop inside it.  Clicking on it will open Desktop.

I've had my PC for, some time between 1-2 years. Over the past month or so, I've been having a huge amount of problems, which have steadily been getting worse over time. I play a lot of different games on my computer, and I browse a lot. It started with FPS drops in the games I played. Eventually my browsers started to slow. Of course, when the issues started to get a bit annoying, and I couldn't find any way to fix it, I decided to refresh my systems(Not Fully Clean the Drive). It fixed things, but only for a couple of days. And each time after the issues come back -- they come back worse.

Yesterday, it got to the point that I couldn't even open some of the programs I run on a daily basis. I couldn't search for anything on Google(Chrome would open -- But not load any URL's/Searches). I decided at this point, I was going to just fully clean the drive as there's I don't keep anything I'm personally attatched to on my PC, and everything else is easily redownloadable.

I went to bed after that cause I knew it'd take hours, woke up in the night and saw it finished. I finished the set up; shut my laptop down, and went back to bed. After waking up, I instantly started with DOWNLOADING AVG. No problems there. Started a scan, which ultimately found nothing, then went onto start downloading my other things. Then the problems started. It was taking almost a full minute for web PAGES to load after I got Chrome redownloaded. I figured maybe, Chrome was just having a problem this time, and decided to try IE before jumping to conclusions. As soon as I open Internet EXPLORER, and try to enter a URL, my whole computer freezes. It literally just remains frozen where it is, for a good five minutes, before I finally just force it to shut down. No blue screen -- None of that light grey tint that appears over a page when it freezes. Nothing. Just a frozen screen.

Also -- A strange thing I noticed. After I fully cleaned the drive of my PC -- My Desktop Background didn't go back to it's default. I had changed my background to some random background from a game I play -- And I was expecting to see a default background after fully cleaning the drive. But no. My background stayed. It had also stayed everytime I refreshed my computer, as well. I don't know if this info helps ; But I do feel it worth noting.

I'm about to start redownloading more of my programs(I haven't gotten any of the games yet -- I stopped to post here after it became apparent that I was having issues even after a full cleaning of the drive). Will be posting in a moment with what happens with my games -- How long I'm able to run them, before they just start refusing to open.

Note; I'm almost 100% certain it isn't my internet connection causing the browsing issues. As of posting this; there are zero other devices running off of my WiFi. Also, my father's PC, which used to be mine, and has been in this house for about 4 years is running faster than this one when in use -- And whenever I play online, on my PS3, or browse through things on my Phone, or my dad WATCHES things on his Tabled, none of those things have any issues that might be connection related(in other words; it's all fast as it should be).

I could think of a large number of potential causes for my issues. 1: A virus, that has SOMEHOW managed to stick around after a full cleaning(I can't shake the feeling of this; for some reason due to my background sticking arond) -- 2: Issues with the drivers. A thing I have zero knowledge of fixing. 3: Similar to 2 -- Some form of software/hardware issue. I'm not a huge computer guy despite having played around on one for years, but those are the only things I can think of off the top of my head.First of all you mention Refresh and then you mention " clean the hard drive" . Did you re-format the drive and re-install the OS from a disk?

my laptop is using windows 8.1.my problem is when i boot up ma laptop,it displays on screen the FOLLOWING:

                 EFI Shell VERSION 2.31[5.9]                          Current running mode 1.1.2                         map:cannot find a required map name
.   Press ESC in 1 seconds to skip startup.nsh,any other key to continue
Shell>

So that is my problem and I have tried "exit" but NOTHING happened

Try resetting bios to default settings and reboot - see if that HELPS.

I can't login to FACEBOOK account, help.  Tried everything.Can you logon from another COMPUTER or device? If its localized to only a specific device we can help, however if your locked out completely they you will need to GO through the PROCESS or RESETTING your password, and proving your the rightful owner with Facebook.

I have an ASUS x550l and the brightness isn't changing. windows 8.1 I have tryd changing drivers and UPDATING but it doesn't change.

More info:
CPU: INTEL core I5 - 4200 U, 1.6 HZ
Memory: 4 Gb
ODD: DVD Sup. MTL.
OS: windows 8.1
HDD:750GB
Asus X550LTry reinstalling the display adapter from the manufacturers websiteHe already did that...

Belkin how OLD is this unit ? ?

I have a new lap TOP and when it says theres downloads for windows etc  it FREEZES on the PAGE after a minute or so, any help PLEASE.

How to use the tab button on my keyboard in Windows 8.1?

I would like to make my typing start 1.5 inches from the left of the page.

Please, please, don't advocate the use of margins, as when I tried using them it only gave me headaches.

I am thankful for any help you can give an old-age civil service pensioner.

GuzeppiSetting the tab spacing has nothing to do with the OS, it's a FUNCTION of the APPLICATION you're using.  What PROGRAM are you using that you wish to set the tab spacing for?Tab space in WordPad an other tools that use the DOC format set the tabs to match the marks at the ruler on the top of the page.
see attachment.
Notice that the font and font size may alter the position, unless you make some  definite tab stops on the ruler. Select >format>tabs if using WordPad.

[attachment DELETED by admin to conserve space]Many thks.  I use WORD in Windows 8.1

Grateful for yr reply.

Guzeppi

When I download data from of the web to Excel I get  a + sign in the upper left hand corner of each cell

Why after opening my hp laptop(win8) ,it is continuously REFRESHING and icon gets BLINKING UNTILL pressed enter key??help me please,
what is the reason and how to solve it.I would check your startup FOLDER to see how many apps are running in the background on that PC...

I just recently, built this unit and runs without issues however, when I tether my phone to this machine for some reason it won't let me open folders but, I can still surf online using firefox.  If I have a open folder I can use it to open other's an use the machine LIKE I shouldbob1286,
Your post is hard to understand. Please clarify.nothing I click on the desktop will open Quote from: bob1286 on October 10, 2016, 12:32:11 PM

nothing I click on the desktop will open

Do you mean while you tether the phone?
There are a variety of tethering apps, some better than others.
If so, what program do  you sue to tether in Windows?
And which phone and app on the phone? Which hone?

So, is everything normal when you do not tether?
Why do you need together? Have you tried any workaround?
For example, why not use Dropbox or Google Drive?

I have Windows 8 Pro (Build 9200) Not licensed) I can't afford to pay for Windows 10. Is there a legit link out there that I can download without losing programs or ruining my laptop? I'm not too computer savvy. I just want an upgrade. Any assistance would be appreciated.Third party programs that run on Windows 10 or almost always made to run on Windows 8.1 also. So it is not CLEAR why you want to move unto windows 10 at this time. Is there some specific thing about Windows 10 you want to have?

You do not have to spend money to try Windows 10 for 30 DAYS. Under some conditions you might be eligible for a free copy of Windows 10.

You can download a ISO file from Microsoft that can be used to make a DVD for a new or upgrade install of Windows 10. At the time of install yu have the choice of a regular upgrade or a custom install. I recommend you try the custom install. With custom install you can put a clean copy on Windows 10 on exasperate Hard Drive or partition.

If you have a spare computer, you can try Windows 10 first on the spare and see if you like it. You can take 30 days to decide if you want to move up to Windows 10 or fall back to Windows 8.1 as your favourite OS.

My advice is to NOT upgrade to Windows 10, but keep what you have. Upgrades can fail and you have the unhappy chore to fix up what went wrong.

Many users prefer to have a dual-boot option for Windows 10 and an earlier version.  See this:
http://www.techradar.com/news/software/operating-systems/how-to-multiboot-windows-10-with-another-operating-system-1300472
Quote

Introduction

Windows 10 is here, but some users may not want to get rid of Windows 7 or Windows 8 quite yet. They may have a Mac or a Linux-based computer. Buying another computer for Windows 10 is one way to have both, but this option can be expensive.

Another option is to simply run both operating systems on the same computer. This set-up is commonly referred to as multi-booting. Dual booting is another commonly used TERM, referring to the common set-up of TWO operating systems. Some users opt to add additional operating systems, but two is the most common set-up in a multi-boot The multi-boot set up below is a dual boot.

I just bought a bargain Noika Lumina 521 at a great price.
But no instruction manual. It has Windows 8.1 installed and a lot of apps.

I already have an email account with Microsoft. I I already have Windows 10 on my desktop. But I have never ever before tries to sync  a phone with my desktop.. Before this, my phones were either Android or Apple.

So, I am stuck on how to set up my email. I enter the email and password and it says it is not right. And it asks me to verify the email accountant and get a code to verify that it is my account. I am confused. I am sure I did the  password right.

But the phone works. It is on T-Mobile and I just put in my SIM card and it works. The issue is how to sync it with my desktop and USE the same Microsoft account for both the desktop and the Windows phone.

Am I not superposed to use the same account on both?
Bear in mind, I have been using personal computers before they existed. But now even something that ought to be easy just overwhelms me.   

How do I tell my Windows 8.1 phone that I have a valid Microsoft email account?
And why is it telling me the password is wrong? It works on the Desktop.

Any help welcome. 

Full description of the phone:
Nokia Lumia 521 8GB RM-917 White T-Mobile 4G LTE Smartphone

Was this a USED phone ? ?
See Here... Quote

And it asks me to verify the email accountant and get a code to verify that it is my account.

My Asus will not boot. It loops from loading and diagnostic, attempting repair, but will not load OS. trying to save Documents through safe mode but can not access safe mode.Machine stuck in "Diagnosing your PC". Asus support SAYS to hit f4 during restart for safe mode, to no avail.how old?
any click click click noises coming from the hard drive?

you're going to have to remove the drive if you need personal files recovered.
than you can try reinstalling the OS.No noises. Has been attempting system restore for about 3 hrs. after finally loading troubleshoot option. don't know how to recover personal files if I remove drive.  sounds like a big question mark over the hard drive integrity. (sadly)

your first hurdle is to recover your data (if at all possible) and since the PC isn't starting, that will entail removing its drive.
if a desktop, removing the side cover will give you access to the drive.
if a laptop, it will either have a separate access panel underneath, usually one for the drive and another for the memory slots, but this varies per make/model of laptop.
some require the entire back plate to be removed while others have the drive sitting under the keyboard (for some god *censored* unexplained reason - please let me one day meet that designer!)

once removed you can either insert it into another PC (if desktop) or put it into an external drive ENCLOSURE (if desktop or laptop).
the drive goes into this external enclosure which in turn connects via USB to you other PC.  so obviously you'll need access to another PC.

more often than not, drives fail enough that a PC won't boot from them, but not enough that they still can't have data retrieved.
it's all going to depend on how it has 'died'.  if indeed it has died.  my first priority would be to safeguard my data, if that isn't important to you or you don't have anything you wouldn't care to lose, than I would move to the next step; reformatting and reload WINDOWS from scratch.

On You Tube you can find disassembly instructions for Asus X550C Notebook repair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YN7X5WXNRVM

You want to test the hard drive, the RAM and the battery. Beyond that there is not a lot yum can do.


Mark Stated:

Quote

you're going to have to remove the drive if you need personal files recovered.
than you can try reinstalling the OS.

Just wanted to add that removal might not be necessary to gain access to the data on that drive ... as for while the hard drive might be toast.... if its not toast and you want your data recovered without opening the laptop to remove the hard drive, if your able to make a bootable thumb drive of Linux MINT for example you can boot the system off of the USB port and then have a healthy Linux Mint OS running in a LIVE environment aka LIVE Distro where this USB stick acts like a hard drive for Linux to operate and does not require an installation to the system its used on to function. Then if the hard drive is healthy enough to mount the drive which it should do automatically, you then will be able to navigate to this hard drive and then if the file system isnt completely trashed you could plug in an additional USB thumb drive while also keeping the Linux USB drive inserted for the OS to function or external hard drive in addition to Linux USB stick and be able to copy the data to external media before you go with any attempt to reinstall an OS to that drive.

From my own experience the Windows recovery system is a high risk tool. It has the knack  of sometimes making things worse.

There's generally no need to completely disassemble the laptop because they're designed with an eye toward ventilation. Make sure to keep the lid open as it dries out, though, so air can circulate around the keyboard.

First of all, it is important to know that you need to power off your device immediately after the spill. Do not power it back on until you have cleaned it. I cannot stress this enough. If you rush it, you could fry the internals and then it's game over. So, prepare yourself for being without your laptop for at least a couple of days. Unplug the power cable and remove the battery, if possible.

The chemical compound trichloroethylene is a halocarbon commonly used as an industrial solvent. It is a clear non-flammable liquid with a sweet smell. It should not be confused with the similar 1,1,1-trichloroethane, which is commonly known as chlorothene.

Trichloroethylene is an effective solvent for a variety of organic materials.
When it was first widely produced in the 1920s, trichloroethylene's major use was to extract vegetable oils from plant materials such as soy, coconut, and palm. Other uses in the food industry included coffee decaffeination and the preparation of flavoring extracts from hops and spices. It has also been used for drying out the last bit of water for production of 100% ethanol.

Hi all,

Greetings from India.
First of all, I am a complete noob when is comes to PC. Been a console player for life. I have zero knowledge about PC parts.
So I am planning to invest in a PC for 50000 INR which is roughly 750 USD. A friend of mine advised to check things on PCPP. But there is difference in the price range. So if some product shows as 40$ there ( 2616 INR) I get to buy the same product in 5400INR ( 82.5 $). And vice versa. So this is limiting my next to none brain capacity in building to built anything. Keeping in mind that this is a budget PC, I would still like to upgrade the system in 6 months or so to a better CPU like I5 7th gen or so and GPU. And I'll be running a Windows 10 64bit home. intel is preferred but with the budget I wouldn't mind AMD build as well.. So looking forward for some help. Will be highly appreciated.

RegardsWhat games do you plan to run and what kind of performance do you expect to get in frames per second and at what resolution?

If your planning on upgrading the CPU in say 6 months then I am thinking if going with a Intel build, you could start with a newer i3 and later go with a i5 or i7. Thing is that if the money is going to be available 6 months from now... if there is no immediate need for a PC, you could take money you have now and keep it in the bank, and then in 6 months build a system with the CPU that you want without being wasteful with money.

If you built it now and in 6 months you upgrade the CPU for a better CPU you might be able to sell the first weaker CPU to get some money back, but your still going to take a loss in the difference between what you bought the CPU at and what you sell it for used.

If you were planning on GETTING by and then say 2 years from now an upgrade then you would get your moneys worth out of the first CPU before the upgrade and it wouldnt be as wasteful in money is how I feel if it was my build.

I have built ENTRY level gaming systems before using weak CPU's teamed with a good video card to later upgrade the CPU when money allowed. In some cases I found that the CPU that I bought off of ebay as a cheap CPU to get by on a new build until able to afford a better CPU came along that that cheap CPU I bought actually is plenty of processing power for what i do. An example of this is in a build where I needed a CPU to stuff into it until i could buy a better 8-core AMD CPU, I stuffed a Athlon II x2 215 2700Mhz Dual-Core into it that I bought off ebay used for $12 USD. I actually was able to play games and do what i needed and so when i did upgrade to the 8-core FX-8350 4000Mhz CPU for $159.99 USD on sale from normally $179.99 I was able to hold out to SAVE myself $40.01 stretching the use of the older Dual-Core for another 18 months before buying the 8-core FX-8350 which when i wanted the FX-8350 initially it was $199.99. So by buying a low cost CPU off of ebay and using that for about a year and a half and then upgrading later I got my moneys worth out of the $12 CPU as well as bought that 8-Core FX-8350 at a lower cost because it wasnt so new anymore, but it was still the performance I wanted.

So if you plan on having a CPU to get by for just 6 months. I wouldnt buy a brand new CPU, but instead buy one off of ebay good used and run that to get the CPU that you dont plan on keeping anyways cheaply to reduce wasted money when you upgrade 6 months from now. You can put that CPU such as a Core i3 back onto ebay and maybe get 75% of your money back as well.

Another option is if you have any friends who upgraded and have a CPU kicking around. Maybe they can give you the CPU they pulled for free or inexpensively or even let you borrow it. One of my friends needed a faster computer but he didnt have much money. I upgraded my one computer and gave him my older weaker Sempron X2 2300 CPU for free because I didnt need it anymore. He is still running this Sempron X2 2300 and games with it with games that run ok on a Dual-Core CPU computer.

The benefit of an i3 processor is that you can get them pretty cheaply used and most of them are Dual-Cores with Hyperthreading and so they act like a Quadcore for entry level gaming pretty well when teamed with a good video card.

Before GIVING you ideas on what to build. We would need to have the questions at the start of this answered to know what you need as a minimum requirement. Some games out there a Core i3 would not work out very well for and so we need to know what your going to run for games during the say 6 month period that your on a temporary CPU.

Hi, lately I have been ENCOUNTERING this problem where my computer monitor GOES black automatically after about 5-10 SECONDS. Then I have to press the power button on the monitor to turn it off, and then press the button again to turn the monitor back on to see the screen activated. The computer still runs while the monitor goes black. I checked all the cables and they are all SECURE. I checked the monitor's settings to make sure it's not in sleep mode. What else can I do to fix this problem? Thank you kindly! Monitor itself is probably the cause.

Internal problem with backlight dropping out.

The ultimate test is to take the monitor to a different computer or replace this monitor with a known good one and see if the problem still happens. They do die this way to work for a few seconds and drop out.

I had an old Dell monitor that did this and when I opened it the capacitors inside ruptured in a flat screen display manufactured in 2006. This monitor was manufactured during a capacitor plague where billions of capacitors with a stolen electrolyte recipe were made and the person who knew their recipe would be stolen sabotaged the recipe to be stolen is rumor has it as the cause. Pretty crafty to make a recipe that is limited life and PASSES component quality testing to make its way into products manufactured with these caps and then within about a year or two a flood of electronic device failures.

Monitors are cheap a new flat screen of a 20-24 inch can be purchased for around $100 USD, And at a second hand store a quarter of the cost new usually in the $25-$40 range. If its an older 14, 15, or 17" non-widescreen display I have seen them for as cheap as $10 each. I bought three 17" non-wide screen displays once for $30 at $10.

I'm having some ISSUES with USER accounts on Windows 8.1. 

My grandma gave me her PC and her name was Ann.  She had only one account on the computer and the account name was Ann.  I changed the name of the account to my name (David), but then I realized it was password protected and it wouldn't let me log in to that account.  But SOMEHOW it let me log on anyway outside of that account.  So I went in and created a second user account and MADE it an administrator account.  I named it "temp" as I was going to change it to David after I deleted the other David account.  So I deleted the David (previously Ann) account.  And changed the name of the temp account to David. 

And at some POINT I also turned on a guest account so other people could use the computer too.  So I had 2 accounts - David and guest.  But every time I logged onto the computer it would show a third account called "other" which it made up and that's the one it would load up to.  I didn't create this account, it made it up for some reason.  But I was able to get around the "other" log in and log in as David or Guest. 

Now even though I deleted the first account (Ann) the computer keeps calling me Ann here and there, like when I tried to install OpenOffice.  It gave me the choice of installing it for all users or just in my account (Ann).  I don't know why it said that because the account I was currently in was David and the Ann account had been deleted.  In addition to the computer still calling me Ann here and there, it oddly wants to install programs in (.../user/temp/...).  And temp was the name of my current user account before I changed it to David. 

So is there any way to fix these issues? 

Update: Now it's just showing those two user accounts: David and Guest.  So that is good.  But I have a program installed called Vistart which gives me back my Windows 7 looking start button and menu.  And when I'm logged on as David and I go to my documents in the start menu it shows the file path:

This PC > OS (C:) > Users > Temp > Documents

And Temp is my old user name, so it should be:

This PC > OS (C:) > Users > David > Documents

Anybody know how to fix this?

I see this screen when I turn on my computer. All I know is it showed some kind of message " scanning for drive" reached about 50% and this showed up. Anybody know how I can fix this ISSUE? Is it possible for me to do something from the BIOS? Any help is much appreciated. What have you tried so far ? ?...BIOS won't help at all...what Windows version is that, looks old?
from what I can make out of the BSoD, looks like your drive has gone belly up, or at LEAST the boot record of the active partition.
We may never know mark...TRY booting your system in safe mode. then run a pc scan and try restarting. thank me later! it's been nearly 3 months.
reckon the OP is past that point now...(but hey, late to the party is at least still at said party)  He's been necromancing old Posts since EARLY AM...You should try this:

1- Do an improper shutdown and restart your PC
2- You should see an option to go to Recovery mode
3-Once in Recovery mode, Open command prompt and run this command: sfc /scannow
3- When it ends restart your PC and check if it boots correctly.See my signature above...

Hi,

I have run malewarebytes multiple times. It does not detect anything.

I also am currently running Super anti-spyware. It keeps detecting new stuff with each time I run it and I am continually running it though it is still slow.

What can I do?

It was running ok a few weeks ago but became extremely slow recently.

Here are links to screenshots of my processes that are running





I would appreciate help on this issue.

Thanks. Here is the thing. Windows 8 is a slow OPERATING system in general, due to the large amount of cosmetics in use, so don't expect too much. Could you also provide the Specs of the laptop? Ex. RAM, processor speed and brand, HDD size? It can help a lot. But, if I were you I would back up all my important files first before doing anything. It depends of different problems you are having, but if your laptop isn't that important, like it's not your main PC, you should try doing a "refresh" of windows 8. You can find videos on how to. Now my OS isn't windows 8, but I do know that windows 8 is not that great, so if you can update even to windows 8.1 or 10, then I would. Also just as Allan said you should describe your problem more.

Hope everything works out!First, please ignore the above post.

Second, please explain EXACTLY what is slow? What SPECIFIC problems are you having?

Third, do you have an anti virus app installed (not MalwareBytes or Super AntiSpyware, but an AV)? If so, please run a full SCAN with your AV. If not, run an online scan from here: https://www.trendmicro.com/en_us/forHome/products/housecall.html  and report back.The 1st screenshot you posted above appears to have been TAKEN while the system was being scanned by Super AntiSpyware which is why it is using a significant percentage of the cpu.  I can't tell what process is using 100% of your Disk in the 2nd screenshot because you need to sort the Disk % Column so that the processes are listed from highest to lowest.

Win 8 itself is not particularly slow but we can't tell from your screenshots exactly what is going on. Was this problem urgent? it's been 30 days.

There are quite a few things which make a pc slow. What anti virus are you using? windows 8 isn't a slow system, you might have installed a program or got some malware on your system? make sure superantispyware and malware bytes are up to date.

I would love to help but you haven't come back to this topic so clearly it's not urgent.Quite late to the discussion. Please share your laptop specifications. Were you using any antiviruses or not. They haven't been back since January...

I change settings on BIOS on tablet windows 8 bios f.0f, hp stream 8 press f10 to save but on REBOOT CHANGES BACK? It should save itIf it's not saving changes after F 10 command the BIOS battery is likely DEAD...
What laptop is it and how old ?

I am running windows 8.1, I have a few games on my computer but two (one from epic games store and one from steam) are showing white blank pages instead of icon images like the rest of them.


I switched the images manually and that was ok for a while and then it switched back to the white blank pages.

Is there anything I can do?

Thank you.

EDIT: Here is my computer information:

Operating System
   Windows 8.1 64-bit
CPU
   Intel Core I7 4790K 4.00GHz   30 °C
   Haswell 22nm Technology
RAM
   16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 666MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
   Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. Z97M-D3H (SOCKET 0)   28 °C
Graphics
   S24D300 ([email protected])
   Intel HD Graphics 4600 (Gigabyte)
   4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 (Gigabyte)   29 °C
   ForceWare version: 417.35
   SLI Disabled
Storage
   111GB Corsair Force LS SSD (SATA (SSD))   30 °C
   931GB Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-00BN5A0 (SATA )   29 °C
Optical Drives
   No optical disk drives detected
Audio
   REALTEK High Definition Audio

I use following code to list all the folders and subfolders from a given folder: dir /s /b /o:N /a:d > folderlist.txt , but I need only those, which contains at least one file.So you mean, EXCLUDE all folders with a zero number of files?
Is a folder with a subfolder, but no files, empty or not?


Yes.
If has a subfolder, but no files it is empty, but subfolder should be CHECKED too.sounds LIKE a job for powershell.
something like this may get you started; powershell -command "Get-ChildItem 'C:\mydocs' -Recurse -Directory | ? {[System.IO.Directory]::GetFileSystemEntries($_.FullName).Count -gt 0} | ? {$_.FullName}"
it will not show folders with a file count of zero.
Output seems correct! Which flag should I use please to hide folder details?if you prefer to stick with your batch solution, try this:

Code: [Select]echo off
for /f %%i in ('dir <YourFolderName> /ad /s /b') do (
   for /f %%j in ('dir %%i /w ^| find /i "file(s)"') do (
     if %%j GTR 0 echo %%i >> <YourFileName>
   )
)

If you prefer a Powershell solution, this may come in HANDY:

Code: [Select]Get-ChildItem <YourFolderName> -Recurse -Directory |
  Where-Object { $_.GetFiles().Count -gt 0 } |
  Select-Object Fullname -ExpandProperty Fullname |
  Out-File -FilePath <YourFileName>
 
Be sure to change appropriately.

Good luck.  Thanks for your help!

Hi, this string of issues started about a week ago, maybe a bit less, and I'll recount it as best I can. It first started as I was trying to play Overwatch (though I don't think it's necessarily specific to that game). My computer started up normally, as did Overwatch. I was even able to connect to a match, but it then crashed me back to desktop during character select or shortly after the match started.

It did this a few times, so I tried updating my graphics card's drivers. When I tried doing so through GeForce Experience, the program wouldn't even start and gave me an error that, for the life of me, I can't remember exactly. Some supposedly missing file, even though it's worked fine in the past. When I tried downloading the drivers directly from the website, I went through the install wizard, and it maybe completed, but at some point my computer froze or the screen went black, I think it froze, and I had to hard restart.
 
At that restart, it got STUCK at POST, just after the motherboard splash screen. The cursor flashed for a while and nothing happened. It did this for another couple of hard restarts, so I ended up letting it continue that WAY overnight just to see. When I woke up, it was displaying something like "Operating system can't load" in POST. I tried thinking of what I'd changed recently that might be causing this, and I'd had a cheap USB drive left plugged in that I don't normally, so I unplugged it, in case. That actually seemed to help at first. I was able to start it up normally once or twice, but then it started to get hung up at POST again.

Eventually, I was able to roll it back to a system restore point. But now, when I start up my computer, it gets through the motherboard splash screen, through the POST, shows the "Windows Loading" screen with the whirling dots loading icon, then it EITHER starts up as usual (though this seems to be happening less often now) or both of my screens go black.

When they go black, the weird thing is, they still seems to be displaying something. Like, the monitors aren't blank/off, they're displaying black. Sometimes, for a quick moment right after startup, I've even seen my primary monitor flash part of the desktop on a portion of it. And, right now, as I'm typing this on my laptop, I'm watching the wireless internet signal strength taskbar icon (usually on the lower-right of the primary monitor) flash periodically, over and over, on the lower-left of that monitor (while the rest remains black). If I wiggle my mouse, the pointer actually appears while I keep the mouse moving, then disappears again a moment after I stop moving it. Also, if I wiggle the pointer again after it's disappeared, it starts back at the center of the primary monitor, even if I'd moved it over to my secondary monitor.

If my computer is able to start up normally, it might work for a while, maybe even a long while (I was able to have it on for several hours without issue both SATURDAY and Sunday this last weekend, but I didn't try to play any games), but I've also seen it then fail in a couple of other ways. It might either freeze up completely and restart itself after a moment or a while, or it starts lagging terribly slowly (or at least the mouse pointer starts moving very, very slowly) and restarts itself, or I have to hard shutdown it. I'm posting on here now because it just did each of these last two in a row, and is now displaying black as I described above while I type this.

My computer specs, by the way, are (this is by memory and whatever documentation I could dig up, since I can't access my system to confirm):
Windows 8.1
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H
Graphics Card: GeForce GTX 780 Ti (EVGA)
CPU: Intel Core i7 3.4 (?not sure if this is the correct GHz) GHz
Power Supply: Corsair AX860
RAM: 8 GB
1x SSD (Windows is installed to this one) - can't remember size
1x HDD - can't remember size

I'm leaning toward a video card issue, but that "couldn't load operating system" issue I had at one point prevents me from being certain it's just that. And I don't know how to diagnose/fix either, so...

Here I am now. Thanks for any help!

I use following command to copy files to folders with same name.
Code: [Select]for /f %x in ('dir /ad /b') do move %x*.* %x\I use move %x*.* %x to move the files to GIVEN directory. It doesn't work for files, which has spaces in their filenames, but not sure what to change. I already tried to use quotes around arguments, but doesn't helped.your move should be move "%x*.*" "%x\"  to cater for folder names with spaces.
and if running from within a batch file, all your %'s should be %%

but as written, I doubt it'll do what you want.
the /b switch says only show folder name - nothing else, so you'd get something like;
Windows
Program Files
Users

and the move will equate to move Users*.* Users\ which I doubt is the effect you were after - but on that I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve.I have folders with names like following.

Quote

Imagefiles - 2015 trips
Imagefiles - 2016 trips
Imagefiles - goodphoto

Imagefiles - 2015 trips - France - 01.jpg
Imagefiles - 2015 trips - Sweden - 10.jpg
Imagefiles - 2016 trips - Sweden - 11.jpg

Good Evening,
My PC was wroking fine until last week where my amd graphic card bugged and screen went black after that i had A BSOD with : VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE (atikmpag.sys).
Note that i had tried to uninstall drivers for that graphic card using safe mode and downloading the latest version possible (15.7.1).
Everytime i completely uninstall my graphic card with its drivers, i go back to normal boot and i reach my screen, then i go check device manager and i have an exclamation mark on my 2nd graphic card (Intel HD graphics 4000) that disappear after a while but when i install my AMD drivers it looks successful at FIRST but when it asks me to reboot, when i do so , i got the BSOD again .. and i keep doing the same which is very annoying !
note that i have tried to replace atikmpag.sys with a new one but i can't find the file on :C/AMD dir.
am i doing something wrong or i have to wait for a while after installing the drivers ?
i look forward to have a positive reply. -thanks in advance.
in most forums i get the still answer (install your latest drivers and try again, which i have did 10 times) .. however i stopped doing so so i unistalled my AMD graphic card because i think its fried, so won't work again ...
My PC is a HP Probook 4740S, means i got 2 graphic cards .. so now i get rid of one can i still be able to use the second intel hd graphics 4000 (at least i can use my pc like it was before, i don't care anymore about performance or such) ...
PS: i already installed the lastest DRIVER version for intel graphics, i got no exclamation mark on device manager but still i cant use that graphics card, so how im gonna fix this please anybody respond Have you DISABLED EITHER the internal or external graphics card in the bios so you are only using one card?

This looks like some good information for resolving your issue

https://appuals.com/video_tdr_failure-atikmpag-sys-windows-8-110/I would make sure you have either the latest driver from AMD website or download and try a previous driver. Sometimes updated drivers is overrated.Hasnt been back in almost a Month...

I had replaced the hard DRIVE on my computer and am following the instructions but after getting the computer to boot up to the flash drive, it gets a bit muddled after that. Instead of using the flash drive to boot up and re-install windows, it gives me about 4 choices of what to do. The procedure says to chose the boot drive but it lists several other choices, recovery device being one. It's amazing that procedures from Microsoft are so vague or are inaccurate or not specific enough to walk you through it. I've also considered the last factor that might be screwing it up... ME! I could use some help from anyone that's done this. I am doing this for a Windows 8, 32 bit Quote

it gives me about 4 choices of what to do.

The procedure says to chose the boot drive but it lists several other choices, recovery device being one.

I have 2 windows 8.1 yes units, I created restore images on both an do not see them when I attempt a repair.  I attempted a startup repair an wasnt able to fix it. I get ntldr is missing crtl alt del to restartSquall yor gonna need to provide more details how you created these images...sounds like you did it wrong...Have you changed anything in the bios, like to get windows 8.1 to boot from the pen drive if you have you need to make sure the hard drive is set up correctly.   

The windows 8.1 repair disk is from the same version of windows as on the computer. ? This could be why you can't see the images, Also make sure the drive with the image is attached to a USB2 port not a usb3.

If you want to repair the error without restoring the image it maybe worth doing the NEXT step, It has worked for me with 2 windows 8 computers with the same problem.
 
Start the computer from the repair disk, when it comes up to the repair options.
 
Select use another operating system and select windows 8.1 from the hard drive.

Windows will take a little LONGER to load but will come up to the login, Log into windows.

This error could be caused by,
1. Powering down without SHUTTING down windows. Did you have a POWER cut before this happened.?
2 Faulty hard drive in which case the above won't work. You could check the hard drive with either HDtune or HDsentinal. Or your computer may have built in drive diagnostics.
3 That the hard drive is incorrectly set up in the bios.
 
I don't mean to offend but did you prepare the USB as bootable drives? Quote from: patio on March 22, 2018, 03:57:29 PM

Squall yor gonna need to provide more details how you created these images...sounds like you did it wrong...

I'm USING ASUS laptop and now charging disconnect and reconnect itself problem happening. As I've two charging adapter, I tried and it's not charger problem. Auto disconnect and reconnect WONT happen when laptop is turned off. It only happens while using. Advice me to fix it. I've been using this laptop about 4 years and this is the 1ST TIME happening this problem.It's the CHARGERS...generic off brand ones ? ?One is original charger and other is not originalThat case is happening on both chargersHave you tried charging other laptops with the same adaptor? I think the power supply to the laptop is not regulated. Try with a genuine product. If the problem continues..... Look out for your nearest ASUS center for help.
He hasn't been back since July...

Hi. Advice would be really nice.

I bought a new wireless router(Mercusys-only one they had) and I the setup seems real simple, but after doing some googling, I SEE I might need to enter my ISPs username and PW and address and other stuff.

Is this necessary or will it be automatic?
I need to know cuz I won;t have net access.
What will they ask for apart from ISP username and PW?

I don;t have a modem, just a cable.

I;m changing routers just in case the other one is compromised so I need to disconnect the old one completely.
If the new router doesnt request all the ISP stuff, does that mean I am STILL somehow using the old router and that compromises security? Should it ask for the ISP stuff?
I also read that if it doesn;t, it means Im just using the router;s wifi and not my cable connection.

Process(cable, no modem)
Turn off old router, take out cables.. should I disconnect the router from PC or ath else?
Insert power line and cable connection into new router, wait and turn on.

Then I get different info on routers web page which i think i can easily access. Dunno about isp stuff.

Thanks!!!!This is from dictation, there might be some funny grammar.

Your question will be answered shortly, however there are important details you have not mentioned. You want to include some details about where you live and what service you have. Not enough information to invade your privacy, but enough information to help others understand what kind of problem you are having.
In many parts of the United States people get Internet service through one of the cable television companies, such as Comcast. The other providers have similar services delivered over either telephone wires, pay-TV cable, or possibly a broadband wireless connection.
A few individuals had direct satellite, but that probably is not what you are using.
In general, the Internet service provider will set up the equipment for you and give you instructions that are easy-to-follow.
I am wondering how to chew get a piece of equipment for Internet service without getting also the information from the provider about how to make it work?
Each service provider has specific details about how their equipment works. So it's not easy for anybody here to tell you exactly what you have to do.
Please provide some more details annex plane why you did not get a manual or quick setup guide that tells you exactly what to do. 

End of dictation. Quote

I don;t have a modem, just a cable.

so, lately i had an idea to MAKE a program that will STORE the password in a txt file and other programs would read and use it
here is the code to a program that will generate the password:

echo off
title S.A.F.E setup
color 0a
ver
echo S.A.F.E PROTOCOL INITIATED
break> %userprofile%\documents\psscod.txt
PAUSE
:setup
set password=%random%
echo %password%> %userprofile%\documents\psscod.txt
echo this is your S.A.F.E password: %password%
set /P passcode= please repeat password.
If %passcode%==%password% goto t
If NOT %passcode%==%password% goto N
:t
echo setup completed succesfully.
pause
exit
:n
echo error INCORRECT password!
echo resetting protocol..
pause
goto setup

and here is the code to implement it to other programs but it doesn't work:

echo off
echo enter S.A.F.E password
for /f "delims=" %%v in (%userprofile%\documents\psscod.txt) do set var=%%v&goto next
:next
set /p passcode=>
If %passcode%==%v% goto t
If NOT %passcode%==%v% goto n
:t
echo password correct
goto program
:n
echo password incorrect!
pause
exit
:program
echo yay!
pause

can you just help me and correct the second piece of the code?

Hello,

I could really use your help. I think my FB has been hacked.. I opened it and I was logged out which was unusual since I never am and I went to Settings and saw I was logged in from TWO different locations(both windows PC). I only use FB on one laptop, nowhere else. I think it said the other location had been logged in two hours before I was active. It said another city, but FB does that sometimes. I changed the pass and checked again and saw the same thing, this time a different IP address I think than the first login that wasn't me.(so, 2 PCs again)

I logged out of it and changed my pass and email pass later on.

What worries me is how they hacked my password.. It wasn't easy and I don;t think I had a security question and I live in the Balkans so I don;t think people here can just hack a password like that, but they can do other stuff. (I assume)
I had recently given my next-door neighbors my wi-fi pass (IDIOT) and I changed it a week later. My router pass and username was default..
My Q is: What can someone do with ones wifi pass? Can they access my mic/camera? That worries me most.. Is there anyway I could check this to put me at ease? I read about process explorer and seeing which programs or w/e had access to my mic/cam. Is this possible? Is there another way? How can I make sure?
I recently lost a loved one and I;ve experienced a lot of evil and I know there are people who really hate me out there.. twisted people..

Last Q: After having changed wifi and router passwords, did I 'kick out' whoever might have been snooping? Or was that not enough?

Tech Support Guy System Info Utility version 1.0.0.4
OS Version: Microsoft Windows 8.1 with Bing, 64 bit
Processor: Intel® Celeron® CPU N2840 2.16GHz, Intel64 Family 6 Model 55 Stepping 8
Processor Count: 2
RAM: 3984 Mb
Graphics Card: Intel® HD Graphics, -2039 Mb
Hard Drives: C: 448 GB (395 GB Free); D: 16 GB (1 GB Free);
Motherboard: Hewlett-Packard, 2213
Antivirus: Windows Defender, Disabled
If your router was flashed by a hacker with a blackhat version of the firmware for that router, then a password would not matter and they would be right back in. Its not common for this to happen though. If you changed the password to something complex and dont use the same password for other places then people should be locked out. However depending on the age of the router, some routers hackers can air-snort packets and figure out your wireless key and get in onto your network again, however they should remain locked out of making changes to the router as for a WEP key etc isnt enough to gain access to the settings for a router. Additionally if its someone hacking you by wifi then its a neighbor or wardriver and might be pretty easy to find the person given the limited range of wifi.

If your extremely worried and your router is an oldie then buying a new router and setting it up with a password different from the default is a sure way of keeping them out of the settings.

Mic and Camera on PC should be off LIMITS to someone, but if you have a network attached MIC or Webcam then anyone on the wifi network would have access to these nodes that lack a firewall. The computers firewall should keep people out of turning on camera and mic.

Have you run a virus scan with up to date definitions and malwarebytes to make sure you dont have any keyloggers INSTALLED on your computer?
I don't know how I just saw this.. Thank you!!

1. How do I check if I have a network attached mic/cam?

2. I have recently purchased a new laptop(old one needed replacing anyways) and a router. So, I need to get this all done right, or I it will have all been in vain.

My questions are the following:
1. Is it enough to get a new PC and router to make sure eth is clean? I have ADSL as far as I know. Someone told me I could get a VPN to make sure as the network can be tampered with in other ways. ( I have no idea how. All that comes to mind are the cables and the phone when I think of my CONNECTION).
Would a VPN cover me completely if the network has been tampered with?
What could they have tampered with network wise, IP address wise or w/e that would not be solved by getting a new PC and router.

2. Another important Q is: If I don't have a different network and share a router with someone at home, is there anyway of making the shared router and my laptop secure from other devices also using said router?

A guest option you mentioned could be a solution? Can this possibly work for a connection via cable to the router also(for devices that aren;t mine and could possibly be infected), not just wifi? To make a guest option on my router for both wifi and cable connection to router from devices I don't personally use? By this guest option I would separate myself from other devices I don't use?

If not possible, can I have two routers on the same network(same IP address?) And would that work to keep my router and laptop secure or does sharing the same network impose a security risk anyways?

I assume each router would have their own passwords? Or is this only possible if they have different IPs?

Could a VPN possibly cover the dangers of a shared router?


Finally, is there ath else I should do to ensure a safe everything?


I really need assistance.. and I need to get this done really soon. All the insight you can give me and kind, thorough advice would be immensely appreciated. New router...

Change provider...

Done.

P.S.  Just cause yer paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you...all this over a FB account ...
Just sayin.


BTW Defender is listed as dis-abled...that doesn't help either.Personally this sounds like a case of being technically proficient enough to have an idea what is *possible* but not being able to properly evaluate the possibilities and eliminate the highly improbable. It is only when you eliminate the likely that you should even consider the improbable.


1. The additional login location

many online services provide a login framework that is accessible via Web API. Facebook is one of the bigger services that do so. You can login to Facebook to comment on blog posts, share posts, like them, or even just as a "login" for a web page. Those services are usually handled by one of their servers and will typically show up as an authentication. If the software using the API does it poorly it could log you out of active sessions.

The other login will appear to be from another computer in one of their nearby data centers and will be identified largely with information from your computer, such as OS.

This happens with services like Microsoft Accounts as well. I've seen "Sign in successful" security events which show on their map as being on the other side of the Country. But I was able to trace it down to specific times that I was using my MS Account- eg to sign into OneDrive or other services.

2. Continuing to show it after changing password

Changing a password doesn't always deauthenticate already logged in sessions, and even if it does, there are typically "protections" internally to prevent internal API-controlled "Logins" from being deauthenticated when a password is changed, at least until that session is ended.

I have a 160 GB hard disk .
There a 3 drives C,D,e drive
whenever I try to enter E drive it say "format before using This drive"
then when I try to format It says unable to format drive
pls help
this is from dictation.
This is from dictation.
Why do you have three partitions? Having multiple partitions on the hard drive can be a good IDEA, but under some conditions you may lose the ability to manage one of the partitions. Here are the reasons why:
if you have more than one operating system on your computer and you have a multi boot loader, one system cannot modify the drive that belongs to the other system.
Additionally, the third drive may be associated with one the operating systems and for that reason he cannot manage it unless you're on the system that owns that dry.
ANOTHER reason is that you may have a portable program on the third drive and that portable program is a resident program. If that is your he drive, the you cannot format that drive because there is an active program that is using that drive.
Or to put it another way, I am not able to help you with this problem LSU can describe in some detail how you expect the three partitions to work.
Also, most likely your drive is not set up this MBR. Here using Windows CE and it makes you think that you're most likely using GPT for the try system. In that case there are some rules about whether not you can format the drive.
So the question is about how to chew create the drives in the first place?
In the drive partition was created that was the appropriate time to format the drive.
It was SEEN that now for some reason you want to format the petard partition even though he was previously created and formatted it and supposedly put some data on it. If so, why do you want to format it now and DESTROY all the data?
This is not a chat room, so I'm going to put up additional things here so we can get right to the heart of the matter.
Do you have a backup system?
Are you the SOLE owner of this computer? Or, are other people also using this computer?
I can, why you want to format the drive? Do you suspect the drive is defective or at least the partition has some defective sectors? If so, there are nondestructive diagnostic tools that can validate the partition without the need to completely wipe everything out.I am the sole user of the computer
the partition was there since before .
I just bought the hard disk recently
Right clik My Computer...select Manage...then select Disk Management....Right clik the E: partition and select Properties.....
Report all is says.

I'm thinking I read where Microsoft automatically inserts the activation code when running the recovery drive for Windows 8 and if so, I might be in luck. I went to locate it and the wife has stored so many warranties and stuff in our filing cabinets, it would take a major miracle to find the papers on my OLD computer. If Microsoft doesn't automatically fill in the activation code/product key, is there a way to bypass that or maybe get another one?See Here...Thanks Patio, I was hoping for better news but it is what it is.basically, with WIN8 and 10, during the installation of the OS, when prompted for your key, click the "I don't have one, I'll insert it later" and when you are finally online, Microsoft will automatically check its server and activate you if you pass its checks.Thanks Mark, I just FINISHED reading an ARTICLE stating the same and if that didn't work you could activate it over the phone. I'm pretty sure though if anything can go wrong it will.

Hello,

I have created 365 excel files, one for each day of 2018. I want to rename them in such a way that the DATE of each day of the year is part of the FILENAME. For example:

Some_file 01-01-2018
Some_file 01-02-2018
Some_file 01-03-2018
.
.
.
.
Some_file 12-31-2018

I guess I'm looking for a script to accomplish that. I have two renaming programs that accept scripts, but I could also use the command line. THANKS for any help.If the contents of the files are the same until edited in 2018, then a script with incremental counters could be used to make a copy of one master file and save it as the some_file 01-01-2018 then increments to 2 for the day, logic would be needed to reset the day COUNTER to 1 when the 31rst day of January 2018 is reached and increment month to 2 and then continue then as 02-01-2018 to which it resets the day counter again for each month as the days in the month are different month to month and so. You would need 12 rules to GOVERN what the counter will increment to for each month before resetting back to 1 and incrementing month to next month, then end at December 31, 2018

I know how to do this in other languages using system calls to interact with command shell to copy and rename the copied file and go to the next, but not sure if batch alone can do this.

If the contents of each file are different then my above suggestion wouldnt work, but if date is within the file itself it could be read in on a line and then used to rename itself by making a copy with the date appended to the name, and then deletion of the original file that it came from since you cant rename a file that is in use.Off the top of my head, in VBScript you can just start with a date, 01/01/2018, and add 1 day to it 364 times, using the DateAdd function, listing out the date string for each, or performing the rename, etc. I am going to bed now but if this is still unanswered when I come back from work tomorrow, I'll give it a try. ...Without knowing anything about what the 365 files are, and how any renaming scheme is hoped for (what file gets renamed to what?) it is not really possible to offer any script ideas.
+ 1 ... Quote from: Salmon Trout on December 11, 2017, 12:34:19 PM

it is not really possible to offer any script ideas.

Both of my Desktops have Windows 10, up to date.
O keep a lot of my stuff on a separate partition on each machine. The desktops  have ETHERNET going to a router that supports gigabit Ethernet. So I would liketo sync the data partitions.

In the past I did this in Windows XP using SyncToy, But now I can not use SyncToy in Windows 10. A search does not explain why SyncToy does not work. I just get some kind of absurd message about needed .NET framework 2.07, which is not available.

So, either there is some other way to sync a remote folder or somehow there is an update for SyncToy. I have spent most of the day try HING to find the answer and I go in circles. Like a dog chasing his tail.  One site says go there, that that one says somewhere else and then it comes back to the first.
what about xcopy or robocopy batch commands?
but you'd probably have to copy one way to update the target then reverse the process to go the other way to update the source, to get a true 'sync'.

I have used ViceVersa for about 15 years now, it'll do what you want, but it's not FREE.Thanks.
I gave up. I installed Windows 10 home 64 bit all over. Now it works the way it should. There is no clue why framework would not install on the windows 10 that had been on the Gateway.

I like Sync Tool because you can set it to do what you want and walk away. Most of the time. It is ideal for updating a mirror on another PC when you might have done some little things on both machines. Sync Toy t compares the files and notes which ones are newer and does what makes sense, namely made the newer folder or file the same on both machines and delete the old version.
I guess you can do that with other methods.
Sync Toy is what I already know.  if SyncToy works for you, that's great, keep using it.

I've only ever seen it used once in the wild and upon checking for a particular folder on the backup, it was DISCOVERED it was not being included.
could find no explanation why, nothing SPECIAL about the skipped folder.
if you can't have absolute trust in your backup software, it should be thrown out.

just a cautionary tale... double check the data  on your backup destination.Thanks for the head sup.
My DATA disk has become so  huge that I am thinking I can not continue Stony. It just takes too  long. I need to remove the  things that are not active.My old photo collection should be put in a separate area.Should be on another storage HDD.... Google Cloud Drive gives you a free 15GB if your looking for free storage capacity too. I use Google Drive to keep data sync'd among my multiple systems these days and only using 4.6GB of my 15GB.Thank you both.
I need to do that, use another HDD and put some stuff in the cloud.Even if no photos are bein synced that HDD holdin them is still thrashin...One thing we have discovered with Synctoy is that it won't copy files to the target directory if that target directory has been changed. We discovered that on one of our customer's systems where we had it configured to copy database backups to an external drive. It stopped at one point because somebody copied another file to the same target directory, at which point synctoy seemed to completely cease syncing new files.Why is this discussion in the Windows 8 section of the forum?

Have you thought about trying Microsoft OneDrive? Quote from: soybean on February 03, 2018, 01:39:47 PM

Why is this discussion in the Windows 8 section of the forum?

Have you thought about trying Microsoft OneDrive?

i would LIKE a help on this. when i want to turn it on, it POP up a message saying "this application is turned off by group policy". so if any one has come across this kind of a problem or knows how to FIX it can i have a brief on that

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]does this PC have another AV program running?
is the PC connect to a workgroup or domain?
And/or does anyone ELSE use this PC ? ?

I recently tried buying VPN software for my laptop. When I tried installing the required components which just happens to me Microsoft .NET Framework 4.6.1 I have tried EVERYTHING WITHIN my knowledge and research to try and get it to install but I keep running into wall, after wall and it's driving my insane!

I've tried running System File CHECKER but it refused to start the fixing process (even in safe mode) I tried installing all the Windows updates (for some reason 2 updates REFUSE to also install.) I've tried running NetFxRepairTool But nothing it working! I don't know what else to try. Please if anyone can help!

Spec:
Windows 8.1
ASUS N550J Laptop
Intel i7-4700HQ CPU 2.40GHz
RAM 8.00 GB
64-bit Operating System

Avast Free Antisoftware



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Do you have adequate free hard drive space to allow for this update to complete? Have you been in contact with the VPN software company to see if this is a known issue with others?

My experience with .Net Framework installs is that it works best to get the .Net Framework direct from Microsoft. If it came with the software, I'd get the version from Microsoft instead. Newer versions of .Net Framework have dependencies on prior versions as well and so you could be lacking the version before this to pivot off of to install this one. Sometimes it will error out and give you a error message that is helpful and other times it leaves you guessing as to why it wont install when there are other dependencies that arent met.

Do you have your system RECOVERY media if you need to wipe clean and reinstall your OS to PATCH clean up to this version of .Net?This may be helpful
https://www.raymond.cc/blog/uninstall-microsoft-net-framework-with-aaron-stebner-cleanup-tool/

I was doing a reinstall, going from Windows 10 back to Windows 8. I had already formatted drive. I got busy and when I CHECKED the PC I saw that it had turned off (or so I thought). So I tried to restart it. I GET the error msg that states the install can not finish in safe mode, please restart computer. I click on enter but Zit just keeps going back to that MESSAGE in a loop. I have a set of recovery disks but I can't get them to autorun. I tried recovery but it only gives Windows 10 as an option and when I formatted those files were lost or no longer can be found. I've tried changing boot order, nothing. In theold systems I could click on F8 and msybe get out of safe mode but I can't bring up that menu. No system restore available, don't KNOW what if any dos COMMANDS might make the recovery disk autorun. I don't know how to word the right dos command. Help!

I recently,  moved a build out of an old Case an into a new one an had no issues with wiring it up with no real hassle.  When I go to turn it on, starts up an gets stuck at the WINDOWS Boot Loader Screen an just stays there.  I attempted to do a REPAIR but, it's not able to an says that the drive is locked an needs to be unlocked.  I used Hiens an MARKED it as a Active Partition but, still get that error message.  I can't get into Safe Mode using F8 an seems like you have to use differnt keys now.  It's running a scan an repair from the Windows 8 Disc but, it don't seem to go beyond that an says 100% complete

not sure how much being about a 2 TB drive is effecting it though.  I did remove the additional, pci usb card to but, kind of doubt that's causing, the issueWhere did this hard drive come from?

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_8-update/windows-crash-refresh-hard-drive-locked-unlock/a6bb04ff-5dba-4e10-a849-644cd0851bc6So I take it that they have to be connected the same way like the order the other case was inYou cannot simply move a Windows HDD from 1 install to another...I don't see why, you can't since there isn't any major hardware CHANGES.  Since, I can't get really any answers getting the data off an doing a reinstall of everything,    I have a FEELING that this will pointlessly get locked then

I have a dell touchscreen desktop that belonged to a family member and it has windows 8 but I don't have the password so I can't login to it at all.  I only have the screen keyboard so have no function keys.  I am at a loss as to how I can get this computer FUNCTIONING again.  A call to Dell was no help as I am no longer under warranty.  Any guidance would be appreciated.Members of this forum are kind of reluctant to help anybody with password issues.
Are you the original owner of this computer?
Do you have an ACCOUNT REGISTERED with Microsoft. Such as an e-mail account on Hotmail  or Outlook? A common practice is to use the same password for the e-mail and the computer log in.

Now then, here is what you might do. Try to reboot in the safe mode. This is done by hitting the F8 key early in the boot up. You should get a log in screen that lets you use the system administrator.


If the "family member" does not know the password, it's a brick.

 I wonder which MODEL of a Dell touch Screen doesn't have some way to recovery from a lost password. It would help if the poster r gave the model number.Don't matter what model Geek...we don't assist with it. Quote from: patio on June 11, 2017, 07:06:37 PM

Don't matter what model Geek...we don't assist with it.

I am sorry if I broke some  rule. I was not aware that I broke some rule.

Hello , i need help to figure out how to fix this super slow startup issue. This laptop takes at least 15 minutes to load before it gets to the log in SCREEN.. it was doing fine about a week ago where it would get me to login screen less than a minute before.

Here are the specs of this laptop,
Acer Aspire E15 , E5-571G-57LH
Intel Core i5 5200U 2.2Ghz
NVDIA GeForce 840M with 2 GB RAM
4 GB DDR3 Memory
1000 HDD
DOM: 9/12/2014
Intel HD graphics 5500
Windows 8.1 64bit (6.3 Build 9600)
BIOS v1.24
Directx 11

Now i'll talk about what i did with this laptop. When i found out this issue i tried to fix it, i thought it was malware/virus, so i did use malwarebytes to scan for viruses, but it still didn't fix the problem. So i thought if i system restore this back to several weeks back it would do the trick, so i ran system restore to an earlier point about 2-3 weeks ago, but when system restore is running , it had an error because it says it could not system restore as AVG has a file or something that was blocking it, so the restore wasn't complete. Next, i tried uninstalling AVG so it could system restore next time and finally i could restore it but the slow booting speed still exists.. as a last resort i ran reset my laptop to reset everything and now i have a fresh new laptop. but sadly the slow startup is still here... and that is the main issue, but there's also some side issues like windows explorer run time error occurring and the date of my laptop would jump 10000 or 20000 years forward each time i restart the laptop. the date jumping issue started when the system restore before was not complete.

These are the things i had done.. i really had no idea what to do next to fix this laptop If anyone can help me out here it would be grateful.
Please and thank you.

-TheeEDIT- update on the Time jumping issue

it was known that when windows explorer runtime error occurs, the time would jump forward in years. I had to use Ctrl+Alt+Delete to open TASK manager and manually restart windows explorer so i can click on stuffs again, and then i changed the time back. Quote from: thee1995 on December 03, 2016, 03:00:19 AM

EDIT- update on the Time jumping issue

it was known that when windows explorer runtime error occurs, the time would jump forward in years. I had to use Ctrl+Alt+Delete to open task manager and manually restart windows explorer so i can click on stuffs again, and then i changed the time back.

When your PC stops booting, a boot drive is the electronic version of a defibrillator. If you can boot your PC, you can detect bad memory, chase bad sectors, change passwords, and recover data ... all the things you need to get the machine back to normal.  ...  make the boot drives you need.

So, is your problem solved?

I hope the fresh restore doesn't include AVG...they have really gone downhill in the past few years...

On top of the fact of being discovered as a data-mining component in their package...

thee1995, Do you have another PC you  can Use to make a USB boot diagnostic tool that boots up an alternative OS?
Here is what I mean:
http://www.pcworld.com/article/2054425/pcs-fail-be-ready-with-the-best-boot-drive-programs.htmlCan that work for you? 

boot to safe mode. How long does the boot take?

StartupLite

Download StartupLite by MalwareBytes to your Desktop.
Doubleclick StartupLite.exe to launch the program.
Ensure the Disable box is checked.
Click Continue.
A pop up message will tell you the unecessary startup items in your list have been disabled and ask you to restart your computer.
Re-start your computer.

Hello there,
I've a huge problem with my laptop. It's not responding at all I tried so many things as you are going to read in details but unfortunately with no success. I would really appreciate it if someone was able to help me out.

First of all
My laptop information
Company: HP
Type: Notebook
Model: HP ENVY dv6 Notebook
Exact model: dv6-7350se
CPU: Intel®core I7-3610QM (2.3 GH) THIRD generation
Hard disk: 1TB
Cash memory: 6M
Ram: 8GB
OS: Windows 8 64bit upgraded to 8.1 once it came out, it was a free upgrade from Microsoft.
Display: LED 15.6
VGA: NVIDIA® GeForce 2GB
Battery: dead
My regular used programs
Dropbox
Office 2013
Visual studio 2015 student edition
NetBeans 8.1
Sublime text editor 3 (plugins are installed as well)
Skype
360 total security
Bandicam (takes video of what happens on screen)
Team viewer 10
My problem
I literally inserted my flash drive into the usp port and soon as it got power I received this error NTFS_FILE_SYSTEM (Ntfs.sys)
The content of my flash drive was the following
The installation program of visual studio student edition 2015
PowerPoint presentation file
Java project program in NetBeans format
2 text files
One folder containing PDF files of a module lecture (9 files to be exact)
Naturally I let it take it's TIME to collect the data it wanted to collect at that moment I didn't SUSPECT it was the flash drive so after it restarted I plugged it in again which resulted in the same error, that was the moment everything broke down
it took 4 hours just to go from black screen (booting screen) to show mouse movement then 2 hours latter it showed me the login section
Then it froze, nothing was responding at all not the keyboard nor the mouse. At that I had enough so I force a restart by pushing down the power key for a couple of seconds which forced shutdown then I clicked it one more time to start it up again. And it never started up again ever since no matter how much time I gave it (up to 15 hours). So I did the same thing forced a restart then kept clicking on F8 so I can choose automatic repair but it already went to system diagnosis so I thought that is a good thing, right? No it's not as it took 1 hour showing me this message then 6 hours scanning and repairing a driver that doesn't exist (it's name is f and I have no partition called f) anyway I let it do it's thing after it finished it restarted on it's own the automatically shutdown itself. So I let it rest for 2 hours then started it up again it told me please wait then black screen and nothing else happened for the next 3 hours. So I forced shutdown, this time it opened the F8 section and I clicked on automatic repair. After no longer than 10 minutes it told me failed to repair so I tried it again, same results.
Went back to that menue and clicked on HP recovery, it took about 6 hours of doing so many things and restarting so many times but at the end I got it back working normally without any problems like the first time I first opened the laptop it was as following
OS: Windows 8 64bit I can't remember the build number
All drivers were installed as well as a couple of programs that came with the laptop
So far so good
Now it's time to download all the updates so the OS can work properly
It started downloading then installing these updates it restarted a couple of times then it shutdown on it's own
So I started it up again just to find that I came to square 0 one more time and everything is not working again and it never go out of that black screen of death. So I tried system diagnosis no results. Automatic repair no results. System restore point no results.
So I went to and bought Windows 10 burned it to A DVD and tried to install it
It took 30 minutes just to show me press any key to to boot from CD which I jumped in and kept clicking like crazy then it took an 1 to open the start up page then finally it showed me the partition section on my hard disk
I clicked the format button on the partition that had my operating system and it took 1 hour to finish then I choose it to install my new Windows and it has been 0% for over an 1 now.

I have no idea what's going on or what went wrong or what might have happened that resulted in all of this
I really need to fix as soon as I can possibly can because I have finals 4th of January 2017
Before you reply know the following
I live in Egypt and there isn't a single person who have a computer services shop that can help me. All of them are pretty much good at installing hardware and replacing it. They can't fix nor do a check up on it and whenever they encounter any problem they re-install the OS and it's driversHave you looked on the HP web site?
http://h20565.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docLocale=en_US&docId=emr_na-c03515402&sp4ts.oid=96396

Others report this kind of problem.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yt-bFeeS1Ls

My recommendation is to find a way to see what is wrong with the battery. Even a old battery should take a charge. But it could be a defective battery and it makers it hard for the laptop to start.

My guess is the motherboard has a problem with the charging system.


Thanks for your respond
My problem isn't the battery at all and to be honest I usually don't use it at all. And anyway it's completely defective that's what I meant when I said dead
The video unfortunately doesn't show a similar problem. The model is different from mine as well as my screen is actually working. The problem is it never run the operating system. It just keep loading in that black screen and never goes out of it.
However, the first link you provided have some ways that I could try out and see if that's going to make it work or not but I will have to let the new Windows 10 installation finish first before I can try anything else.
I really appreciate your respond and taking the time to read my issue.If you have another working computer, you can build a Windows install DVD from a ISO image. The install DVD has an option to repair an existing system.  The repair feature is similar in windows 8.1 and Windows 10.
Look at this:
https://neosmart.net/wiki/windows-10-repair-installation/

When doing a repair you might need to discount external devices. In my system, I can no do reinstall of Windows 10 if my HP printer is on its USB cable.  I guess that Windows thinks it USB drive and wants to read it.
that is exactly what I did
But I'm USING it to install a clean new OS Windows 10 and there was no option to repair it. The only options that were there were to install the windows or custom Windows installation.
Unfortunately I don't own any other OS except XP and 10
Windows 8 was already installed on the device when I bought it and it allowed me to upgrade to Windows 8.1 for free. I wished I had an 8 maybe then I would have been able to use the repair feature.
That is my current operating trying to fix it.The only thing plugged into the laptop is the powerIt is possible to get an ISO of the current Windows OS.
https://neosmart.net/wiki/windows-10-repair-installation/
Scroll down and find this:
Quote

Start by downloading either the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool or the Windows 8.1 Media Creation Tool. Once the file has downloaded, just double-click it to start the tool and then click “Yes” to give it permission to make changes to your PC. When the tool starts, click “Accept” to accept the license terms. Note that the Windows 8.1 version of the tool does not ask you to accept license terms.

Another problem is I already formatted the partition where my old operating system was installed in order to install Windows 10 and the program will require Windows 8.1 CD serial number which I don't have

Your Win8 Key is on a sticker on the laptop...if you dont see it on the case check inside the battery compartment

I already had Windows 10 up and running for several weeks. So I hought I WOULD use left over partition space to try an install ofWindows 8 just to see whatthe diferencesw were.
BAD IDEA!
I nearly lost everything on tghe DIRVE and it got so messed up I can to dig up by backup copy on anotgher drive. I keep two and even three backups of sutff.

So now I am here using Windows 10 and I am saying  do nottry to install Windows 8 on the same disk as Windows 10. Unless you do the Windows 8 install fairst.

Otherwise the Windows 8 install rubs out importgant information for Windows 10 and yhu will not be able to RECOVER the Windopws 10 install. Except with a full recovery method.

So from nowI Iwill remember,instal 8 first, then 10-. Never the other way.
Just wanted to say this. Maybe yhou already knew that. 
Very OLD rule - install the older version first!
Been around as long as i can remember...

If I CLICK on the little speaker symbol in my task bar it says no audio device is installed.
When I look in device manager they are there and say they are working correctly.
I had sound earlier in the day but then it stopped for no apparent reason.
I have tried a HUNDRED things.
I've tried disabling and then enabling drivers.
I've tried re-installing drivers.
I've tried refreshing windows.
I've tried UPDATING drivers.
I've tried resetting CMOS
There's probably a couple more I can't remember
Nothing works.
I am RUNNING windows 8.1 64 BIT on a desktop computer - intel core i7 [email PROTECTED] GHz, 8.00GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 5450
Please help!
See your other Post for reply...

i UPGRADED MY WINDOWS 8.1 to windows 10, however I tried reverting back to 8.1 and now I cannot get the pc to work at all, all i have on the screen is a circle in the MIDDLE and the WORDS "just a moment", even LEFT it on OVERNIGHT but nothing is happening, hope someone can help, thanks, my pc is laptop hp pavillion G6 WITHOUT knowing EXACTLY what you did or how you did it, it is impossible for us to offer intelligent advice. Please explain everything you did IN DETAIL.

Left my surface pro2 on OVERNIGHT and woke up to FIND the above screen with the FOLLOWING options

Trusted Platform Module(TPM)       [Enabled]
Secure boot Control                      [Enabled]
Install Default Secure Boot Key
Delete All Secure Boot Key
Exit Setup

No matter what I do, when I exit setup, it closes down only to boot to this screen.
Any ideas what I can do PLEASE