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Yes. It is common to use the terms as if equal.
Bears hibernate.
Dogs sleep.

Intel, Microsoft and Toshiba originally developed the standard, while HP and Phoenix also participated later. In October 2013, the original developers of the ACPI standard agreed to transfer all assets to the UEFI Forum, in which all future development will take place.[3] The latest version of the standard is "Revision 6.1", which was published by the UEFI Forum in March 2016.[4]

G1, Sleeping: Divided into four states, S1 through S4:

    S1, Power on Suspend (POS): Processor caches are flushed, and the CPU(s) stops executing instructions. The power to the CPU(s) and RAM is maintained. Devices that do not indicate they must remain on may be powered off.
    S2: CPU powered off. Dirty cache is flushed to RAM.
    S3, commonly referred to as Standby, Sleep, or Suspend to RAM (STR): RAM remains powered.
    S4, Hibernation or Suspend to Disk: All content of the main memory is saved to non-volatile memory such as a hard drive, and the system is powered down.

Note Windows supports a subset of functionality defined in the ACPI 5.0 specification. Windows does not have an explicit check against higher revisions of the firmware. Windows will support firmware that conforms to higher revisions of the ACPI specification if this firmware contains the necessary support, as described in this design guide.

Sleep states
When Windows enters sleep mode, it may appear that the system simply goes into a low power state and remains that way. HOWEVER, the process is a bit more complex. The system actually goes through several levels of Sleep. These levels, or more specifically, power states, are defined by the Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) specification. All told, the ACPI spec lists six states, which are numbered S0 through S5. We're mainly concerned about the Sleep states, but to keep everything in context, let's look at them all.

They are not equal at all, in my view.  Sleep is a low power state from which the computer can quickly be awoken.  Hibernation is a fully powered down state and startup from hibernation requires significantly more time than sleep; startup time may be similar to a normal startup (startup from normal shutdown).

That looks a logical explanation. So does that mean that the sleep mode consumes less energy to that of the hibernation mode?

So there are five levels of sleep?

My Bluetooth Mouse (MX Anywhere 3) has trouble re-connecting immediately to specifically my Notebook (Razer BLADE Stealth 12.5" QHD 2016) when I turn the Mouse off and back on while it is connected, it also HAPPENS when I press the button on the Mouse to switch to another SYNC (second and third Bluetooth connections to other devices)

My Notebook specifications
https://imgur.com/a/LZdsLea

When the Mouse is connected it works normally and is stable, after I switch it off (then back on) or press the button (to switch devices) it presents the issue of not re-connecting (even though the Mouse is on)

In this situation Bluetooth Settings says "Paired" and in the Action Center Bluetooth says "Not Connected", the battery level is shown in Bluetooth Settings
https://imgur.com/a/KQYyl21

The weird thing is when I move the Mouse physically (Does not move in Windows) Bluetooth Settings says "Connected" and in the Action Center Bluetooth says "MX Anywhere 3", the battery level is shown in Bluetooth Settings
https://imgur.com/a/B1rU55Z

If I keep moving the Mouse physically it would alternate between the two states of "Paired/Not Connected" and "Connected/MX Anywhere 3", while it alternates there is a chance it might move for a second when "Connected/MX Anywhere 3" then stops

For me to remedy the issue I would have to do any of the following;
1. Turn Bluetooth on & off in Bluetooth Settings
2. Restart my Notebook
3. Keep moving the Mouse physically in the mentioned 2 states, eventually it will stop alternating and stay connected (after a couple minutes of moving the Mouse non-stop)

I have ran the following lines in Command Prompt (Run as ADMINISTRATOR) and no issues were detected;
DISM /ONLINE /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth
DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth
DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
SFC /scannow

Every-time I run the Bluetooth Troubleshooter, it keeps fixing "Check Bluetooth radio status"
https://imgur.com/a/E5u24km

I feel like this is a problem that belongs to my Notebook because the MX Anywhere 3 does not present this issue on another Laptop, it performs as expected and in a satisfactory manner then

It is a inconvenience not being able to turn off and on my Mouse when I would like to, I am hoping someone can help me troubleshoot this

I upgraded to Windows 11, with no apparent installation issues. I USE a laptop with an EXTERNAL monitor as a second display. Under Windows 10, the windows were stable where I put them, but now, when I click in the other display, the windows jump around and it takes MANY clicks to get them sorted. This happens every TIME. One common use is to have a full-screen program on the laptop, with a browser on the second, to use as a reference. I have TRIED to find any relevant settings in the System->Display section, but cannot resolve this. Is there something different or missing in the Windows 11 settings? It's been too long since I set it up in Windows 10 for me to remember.

I just CHECKED the UPDATE STATUS and thought this was so self explanatory that I had to SHARE it.

You are lucky This beta software has YET to be polished...

I have a duo system on separate hd's, Win 10 on new SSD hd and Win 7 on a older Sata hd. I CHOOSE via the Bios on which I want to use for the day. Lately, when i choose Win 10, I see the revolving loading circle and the next thing I see, win 7 appearing. I cannot understand what is GOING on here. Is my new SSD at fault, the Bios screwed up or what. I did GO through the Repair mode with my Microsoft tool program and it worked only for one day. Does anyone have any suggestions?to be rude, I would say stop using dual boot. But, I would say that something is WRONG with the mbr record on one of the disk. In the bios you change priority of disk I presume? It's not really necessary to do that since both os know to do dual boot (first older os, then newer). Anyway...I would check that mbr boot records...

I am using WINDOWS 10 and outlook express and my the email in outlook is fine.

My problem is, when I do some things in google chrome a window pops up in the right hand corner
with my correct name  but the email it identifies with is not correct.
I can't SEEM to find or understand how to change that email to my correct email.
Suggestions please.
Thanks for any help.Just to clarify and hopefully make my question more understandable.

There is a circle at the top right hand corner of my google page.
It HAPPENS to be red right now. When I click on it, my FIRST and last name are shown
then just UNDERNEATH is an email address. That's what I am trying to find out how to change.

An app I use to encrypt files with, Kryptel, has a problem deleting old files. It encrypts and decrypts fine but keeps GETTING blocked by Windows when it comes to deleting the old file. I cannot delete the old file either even as Administrator. I have gone in and changed the attributes on the files and TAKEN off the "read only" part but Windows puts it right back on again even before I leave the file. Kryptel TELLS me it is windows blocking them and I believe it. There MUST be something I am not doing or have done to make windows do this blocking.
Any ideas?I use for situations like this "Wise force deleter" Free,WORKS every-time.
Code: [Select]https://download.cnet.com/Wise-Force-Deleter/3000-2248_4-76413123.html

Dear INTERNET:

I want to clear pics off my phone. I know I have archived a ton, but not all.

So I copied them all into a directory - C:\PhonePix

I have a ton of subdirectories, one for each trip I've been on (e.g., C:\Users\rjbinney\TravelPix\Elbrus, C:\Users\rjbinney\TravelPix\Bayonne).

Is there software that will tell me if and where there are dupes from the "left side" (the master "PhonePix" directory) ALSO in the many many right sides (i.e., ..."TravelPix\*").

Thanks!well...I WOULD MOVE all the files from the right side to one folder and there started search for duplicates (there is a ton of software for duplicates...). Even if you would like to compare files...you should have all the files in one folder on both sides (preferably)Thanks. They're already moved into the proper subdirectories "on the right". I just want to make sure I've moved them ALL. (Because the right side has them from my phone, from my WIFE's phone, and from my actual camera (same thing as a phone but doesn't get calls about my car warranty).)

Hi i just bought a new gaming pc and i can't EVEN play the game i bought it for, Pc keeps crashing with fatal codes each DIFFERENT time. i tried updating windows, graphics driive, uninstalled game uninstalled windows 5X already nothing works. if there is anyone that can help id appreciate it. thank you

Operating System:   Windows 11 Home, 64-bit
DirectX version:   12.0
GPU processor:      NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 3070
Driver version:      496.49
Driver Type:      DCH
Direct3D feature LEVEL:   12_1
CUDA Cores:      5888
Resizable BAR      No
Core clock:      1815 MHz
Memory data rate:   14.00 Gbps
Memory interface:   256-bit
Memory bandwidth:   448.06 GB/s
Total available graphics memory:   24501 MB
Dedicated video memory:   8192 MB GDDR6
System video memory:   0 MB
Shared system memory:   16309 MB
Video BIOS version:   94.04.46.40.7F
IRQ:         Not used
Bus:         PCI Express x16 Gen4

ERROR CODES

I've tried twice now to update to WINDOWS 11. It gets through the initial download in Windows 10 just fine, but when it reboots and starts updating I get a BSOD: attempted write to readonly memory.


Rebooted, it failed and undid the changes. Tried again, same issue, but this time it attempted to recover the INSTALL, then failed. Repeated a few times (scaring the CRAP out of me, reinstalling OS is a pain) and FINALLY undid the install like last time and it's back to normal.

I actually do want to try installing it, but only with the option to revert, so I'd really prefer it this method over a a fresh install.

See attached for screenshot.

From what I have read, I think if I remove google CHROME, all my screen short cuts and book marks
will be removed as well. Is this a correct assumption?
Is there a way of saving them or would I just have to DOWNLOAD the short cuts again after I reload Chrome?
Thanks.A search indicates you can save your stuff.
Here is a link to a PC/Microsoft  article:

https://www.pcmag.com/how-to/switch-from-google-chrome-to-microsoft-edge-chromium

Quote

After years of Microsoft-built web browsers being a punchline, Edge has turned things around thanks to Google. I never thought I'd SEE the day, but the new Edge has a number of enthusiasts switching AWAY from Google Chrome.

Greetings!

I have a Kingston 240gb SSD that i am trying to secure erase using the Kingston software that is provided ONLINE. I have the drive set up as a slave and the software sees the drive as a slave drive. However when i try to secure erase it claims i need to pass a freeze lock. To do so i need to unplug the sata power connection and replug it in. Ive tried this multiple times and still i cannot get the program to allow me to secure erase. Am i doing something wrong?

The software states that if this does not WORK, i should look into some different sata drivers. I am using a gigabyte GA-H87M-D3H board with a i7-4770. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.
I can't FIND any clear information on what the "Freeze Lock" state could mean.

You might try using a tool like parted Magic, that has an NBAN tool (based on DBAN) which provides a secure erase function.

What im attempting to do is at this link.

Specifically the last page of this PDF. Unplugging and plugging in the secondary drive should unlock it. It does not sadly.

https://media.kingston.com/support/downloads/secure-erase-user-guide_ksm.pdfHi
Did you remove all the partitions from the drive first as DESCRIBED in the instructions ?
In windows drive management you can check if the drive is locked.  If it is, you can unlock it with the right mouse click MENU

hi Lisa.

Yes I have removed all the partitions. Im on the last step trying to unlock it. Under drive management there is no option to unlock it. There are options to create a simple volume, properties and help. That is all.

No, I am not an expert on Chromebook and I have yet to WINDOWS on it.

That said, I did find a goody link on that idea. Look: 

https://www.androidauthority.com/windows-on-chromebook-1145337/

They warn you there is a RISK if you go into the deep water. An option is to use remote desktop to use an old Windows PC toy might have on your local Wi-Fi NETWORK. That might be a solution for you.Otherwise take care.

 The ARTICLE is in IMHO, very well DONE. Pleas read it.

What:  Dell Inspiron 22 - 3000 Series All-in-One - Model: 3277

Display:  21.5 inch FHD Touch Display with Webcam

Performance:  Intel Core i3-713OU Processor - 20GB Total Memory - 1TB Hard Drive - Integrated Intel HD Graphics

Software:  Windows 10 - Norton Security (unit came with McAfee LiveSafe installed, I uninstalled it months ago)

Includes:  Wireless-AC & Bluetooth - HDMI, USB3.1, & MCR - Waves MaxxAudio Pro - Wireless Keyboard & Mouse

4GB DRAM Memory & 16GB Intel Optane Memory.


Okay.  This might be long but my experience has been that techie people are like doctors in that patients need to tell everything about their symptoms as well as what happened before the symptoms, then the doctor decides what is relevant and what is not.

So, here we go.

I use this computer for personal things.  I watch (and sometimes save) tons of videos. I watch streaming online, upload hundreds of photos and memes (quite a few are saved in folders on my desktop).  I sell on eBay.  I research everything I sell before I list it, so I look at lots of graphic-heavy pages.  When photos on these pages start not opening, I clean out my browser via settings, close the browser and open a new one to continue my searching.

I am on Facebook and email frequently.  I do not use WORD or Excel or anything like that.

I like to play the Mahjong game that came installed on this computer while I have a YouTube (or other) video running in the background (listening to it).  I frequently have a video playing in the background while I am doing something else in another browser window.

The only time this becomes a problem is when I am playing Mahjong while a video is running.  If it has been a couple hours or so (with both running at the same time) sometimes everything will freeze up and everything will go black for a few minutes but it usually resolves itself.  Then, I will close all browser windows, clean the cache, then I can start all over again without a problem.  I just have to remember to close the game and the browser windows every now and then so I do not run into this problem.

It is a pain in the *censored* and I am extremely disappointed that this happens in a Dell.  I have had many Dell computers over the years and this has never happened before.  But, I digress.

Anyway, the night before last night I had a video running and was playing Mahjong.  Both had been up for about an hour.  My husband called me upstairs to help him with something and when I came back downstairs my computer screen was black.  Not pitch black like when it is turned off, not that dark, but the shade of black that tells me my computer has (once again) frozen up.

This might be a good time to mention I use the colored bubbles screen saver that kicks in after 20 minutes (?).  There were no bubbles on the screen, just the black.  Also, my computer is set up when I am idle for a long time, the log on screen appears (with a variety of outdoor scenery pics that changes each day).  I do not like this, I wish this would only show up at log on not when I am away from my computer.

So, when I realized my computer was frozen, I moved my mouse back and forth.  The log on screen (the scenery pic where I put my pin number) did not appear, nothing happened.  I left-clicked my mouse a few times, nothing happened.

Frustrated, I HELD the power button until it turned off (hoping to reset and unfreeze my computer).

Now before you yell at me, doing this on other computers in the past (not frequently, I know this is not a good way to turn off a computer) has never been a problem.  What normally would happen is when I turned my computer back on, I would sit through a black screen that scrolled all the things it was checking to be sure the computer was okay (because of the way I turned it off) before allowing me to log back into Windows.

I fully expected that to happen this time ... BUT NOOOOOO ... this computer gives me a black screen saying PREPARING AUTOMATIC REPAIR and then another black screen saying DIAGNOSING PROBLEM then it changes to a blue screen that says:

AUTOMATIC REPAIR

YOUR PC DID NOT START CORRECTLY
Press Restart to restart your PC, wich can sometimes fix the problem.  You can also press Advance Options to try other options to repair your PC.

Restarting did not fix it.

So, I chose Advanced Options, which brought me to a blue screen that has more options:

CONTINUE
Exit and continue to Windows Recovery Environment

* Same Result*

USE ANOTHER OPERATING SYSTEM
Continue with another installed version of Windows

I clicked on that and my two choices are:

WINDOWS RECOVERY ENVIRONMENT
and
WINDOWS 10

* Same Result for Both *

and underneath those two options is a link that says:

CHANGE DEFAULTS

The options here are CHANGE THE TIMER and CHOOSE A DEFAULT OPERATING SYSTEM Current default: Windows Recovery Environment.

I did nothing here and went back to the ADVANCED OPTIONS screen.

This time I chose TROUBLESHOOT
Reset your PC or see advanced options

The TROUBLESHOOT options are:

RESET THIS PC
Lets you choose to keep or remove your personal files, and then reinstalls Windows.

I chose KEEP MY FILES, entered my BitLocker recovery key ... annnnnnnd .... nothing, did not work.  It goes up to about 40% then stops and says it could not reset my computer.

The other option is to REMOVE EVERYTHING which I will not do.  I have hundreds of photos on this computer, maybe over a thousand, that I cannot replace.

Yeah, yeah I know.  Why did I not upload a back to the Cloud?  Because it is not a mysterious place up in the clouds but, rather,  a bunch of computers at some company.  I do not trust it.  One of these days, some savvy hacker is going to hack into the various Cloud services and delete everything, CORRUPT it, or hold it for ransom.  No thanks.

When I bought this computer a couple years ago, I assumed it had a CD-ROM/DVD read/write drive or two or three on it.  Why?  Because when they first came out there was one drive on the computer.  Then, improved models had two.  I didnt even realize this computer did not have one until I wanted to pop a DVD movie in it to watch it.

A couple months ago, my computer would not let me in.  At the log in screen (with the pretty scenery pic), it kept saying my pin number was wrong.  I tried everything I could think of to get in and, in the end, I reset my computer (keeping my files).  It worked fine.  I was upset because I had about 80 links bookmarked that I lost (I was not synced to save them), but I got over it.

I do not understand why it will not let me reset it this time.

Back at the TROUBLESHOOT screen, the other option is FACTORY IMAGE RESTORE.  Again, I do not want to do this.

It is probably important to let you know ... after I tried all of the above things ... I powered the computer down (safely) and unplugged it from the wall.

I did not want to do it earlier in my efforts because we use our cell phone mobile hotspot for an internet connection and I knew once I had done that I would no longer have an internet connection and would not be able to turn it on again on the computer.  When I plugged it back in and turned it on, I got the same result as all the other things I have tried: nothing, no change.

So.  Here we are.

Are there any brave techie souls out there who are willing to help me?

-granny-

p.s.  On a positive note, I do have a 128GB ScanDisk Ultra USB 3.0 Flash Drive on hand (in case it can be USED to back up my files ... if it is even possible at this point) and I promise I will start doing regular back-ups even if I have to scrape my pennies together to buy an external device to do it.Thankyou for all the information very help full.
As the computer is running bit locker apart from hardware checks which are available in the bios options, I would test the memory and the Hard drive.
If they check out all ok try disabling the Optane memory how to do this is explained here  https://dl.dell.com/topicspdf/inspiron-22-3277-aio_users-guide_en-us.pdf
And see if that allows windows to boot.
I suspect the 1 TB hard drive. You would be better removing the optane memory and installing a SATA solid state hard drive Like a Crucial 1 TB  CT1000MX500SSD1.Thank you for your response.  How do I do this since windows will not open?  All I have access to are the blue screens I have listed in my post.  Is there a way to do this from there?Yes, there is more to do. Use another PC to make a bookable OS that does not need a had drive to run. That can be use to startup up agnostic programs.

One that is still in use is Puppy Linux.
Puppy Linux Installation and Usage.
https://puppylinux.com/install.html
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In any Linux, once you have downloaded the ISO image and verified its authenticity by checking its md5sum you can burn it to a DVD or a CD using any Linux optical burning tool. Just make sure you burn it as an image and not data otherwise it will not be bootable.

Thank you for your response.  How do I do this since windows will not open?  All I have access to are the blue screens I have listed in my post.  Is there a way to do this from there?

I have a few drives mapped in Windows Explorer that I am only sporadically connected to. (i.e., My A: drive at home, my B: drive at work).

When I am dragging files from the Right side of Explorer to a folder on the Left tree, sometimes I accidentally wipe over one of the unconnected drives. Note, I'm not trying to drop into those drives, it's just that the icon I am dragging passes over the icon of the drive.

This FREEZES everything - even if I keep moving. It's just the simple motion of being "over" a drive that isn't there that scares Windows. Sometimes if I wait the "(Not Responding)" goes away, but more often than not, I have to restart Windows Explorer.

Other than, you know, NOT doing this, is there a "fix" for this?Are they dragged via TOUCH Pad or HOLDING Mouse Click? I have SEEN issues where touch pad used to drag a file drags intermittently as in its not continually held and so windows assumes its been dropped even when you dont want it to be. Might be as easy as using a mouse instead if not already using mouse.

Other thought is to organize your drive layout in a way that makes lesser frequent connected drives not in the direct path of a drag and drop motion.

Lastly if supported to simply right-click to COPY & PASTE and then paste to selected location ( or ) right-click and select CUT and PASTE to a location might work out better to avoid Windows assuming that you want to pass the file to a disconnected mapped location.Yeah, frequently it's also coz I'm dragging a file to the taskbar to upload it to a web portal.

It IS a touchpad, I think I'm pretty steady but who the heck knows. Haven't used a mouse in probably 17 years.

Don't know how to better organize the tree so A and B drives don't show - open to suggestions.

ThanksWhen you drag over a drive, windows accesses the drive to evaluate it as a drop target. Since it is accessing the drive, Windows attempt to reconnect the drive in order to do so.

You'll see similar behaviour if you hover over a USB drive that has gone to sleep. Windows Explorer will hang until the drive spins up and Windows is ABLE to access the drive.

Yeah it's just in a position where my "natural" way of dragging catches it. Trying to retrain myself, but was hoping there was a Big Tech solution.

Hello guys.

I have tried to solve this problem for the past 2 months with many different sources including discord communities, graphics vendor, distributors and even nvidia. But I still have absolutely no idea what CAUSES the crashes or what to do to fix them.

TLDR: Computer crashing, tried everything I can think of - including swapping literally every single hardware component and clean installing windows

Current PC Build:
 

• CPU: Ryzen 9 5900x
• GPU: RTX 3080Ti
• Motherboard: MSI B550 Tomahawk
• RAM: Crucial Ballistix 32GB 3000Mhz (4x8GB)
• PSU: Corsair RM850X

Hi

Can you do a speccy report and copy the url for the report here. Also what Bios version is the motherboard running it needs to be revision A7 for your CPU.

A bios update would likely have fixed it. That was one of the things the speccy report would have shown.

have someone help me okay
How to turn off the software update when shutdown and start the machine on win 10. This made my machine really slow down a lot! hope someone will help me, i am currently using win 10 home version!!!

Thank u so muchDo you mean automatic software updates? I think ONE trick is GIVING Windows the idea that you are using a metered CONNECTION. Turn on "metered connection" in the Settings of Network&Connection.This is a temporary solution to your problem but probably the best one for someone in your position.  Right click the windows icon on the bottom left of your desktop and click on settings. Select update & security which should be at the bottom of the list.  Next, scroll down a little bit and select Advanced options.  Lastly, switch the "pause updates" from off to on.  This lets your computer be free from updates for 35 days, but you will be forced to update after that time.  I recommend using this setting and when you have a spare moment to have your computer update itself, go to the page you found advanced settings on and update the computer.  It gives you a fresh 35 day cycle of no UPDATING every time you update to the latest version.

Anyone else MISS the days of service packs?

Apologies, I didn't know which part of the forum to post this.

I had to do a file recovery of my laptop and Dell had to do some things to the BIOS. When I run the recovery software to do so, I see the following drives:

OS c:/ NTFS: Total Space=462gb Free Space=260gb
Physical Drive 0 RAW: Total Space=476gb
Dell Support Partition NTFS: Total Space=1gb Free Space:92MB
Partition FAT32: 496MB Free Space=469MB

I'm not sure if all the PARTITIONS are needed and if I should be moving anything to get best storage. Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks.
Best not to remove any of those because they all SERVE an important purpose.

So you sent the laptop to Dell and they serviced it to flash the BIOS?

Quote

Dell had to do some things to the BIOS

If I set up a physical machine to remote into over RDP, can I disable the built-in display adapter (e.g. Device manager > Intel HD Graphics 4000) and still remote into it?

It wouldn't need to be accessed directly so there won't even be a monitor attached.
It also wouldn't have an external/dedicated either.

I want to know if I can just remote into it over MS RDP without a host display adapter?

Thanks in advance. Most motherboards have at bare minimum an integrated GPU or is its an APU SYSTEM ( CPU/GPU  in a single processor chip ).  You would need to likely have a monitor connected to the system you plan to RDP into during the build process of the OS and CONFIGURATION.

If the intent is to TRY to save electricity, leaving the system with the integrated GPU enabled wont waste much electricity.

However the unknown is if you have the display driver disabled, I am not sure if RDP would be affected or not by this. *Part of me thinks that RDP may have a dependency on a video driver and GPU present because the native screen resolution is passed over the connection to the system that connects to it. So you can try disabling the driver for the GPU and see if RDP works, however if it doesn't you will have to perform a repair installation or bring it up in SAFE mode to get the display working again if it allows disabling of the display altogether and you want the display back because RDP is a failure and your aborting the non-GPU configuration.RDP is a Windows service so you shouldn't need to worry about display adapters on the host machine.    The only things you need to worry about are network CONNECTIVITY and ensuring that the host remains on the same local IP.   If you know how to, either reserve the IP address to a static list via your router for the host OR force a static IP from the host.

I wasn't able to LOG onto the internet. I TRIED opening google chrome but it wasn't there. I tried typing google chrome in my search box and nothing would show up. I tried Internet Explorer and typed it in the search box and nothing would show up. I couldn't log into IE, MICROSOFT Edge or Google Chrome. Can somebody please TELL me what's wrong?

Try as I might, the GOOGLE Help website did not give me the chance to 'state my case', only to list the title. In Password Check, Google warns me about 'the unsecure credentials' of an obsolete modem that I'd like to WIPE from memory, but Google only gives me the chance to CHANGE the password. Is there a way how THAT memory can be obliterated ?
If modem is no LONGER in use and password changed... trying to figure out what the problem is with an obsolete password stored somewhere out there that is invalid for any other sites or hardware.

Curious what this has to do with WINDOWS 10.... is the modem listed as an offline device that you want to remove from Windows 10 the same as removing an old printer that is no longer used or this has nothing to do with Windows 10 and instead is Google storing information that you want changed that has to be done by interfacing with your Google Account and removing old information?

Your request for help isnt clear enough to give a clear solution... maybe more info on what you have going on will help us help you.
The modem is obsolete - no longer in use and indeed useless now; The password did not change. The modem for the new system is different from the modem of the new system.
"trying to figure out what the problem is with an obsolete password stored somewhere" The problem is that it gets gets listed among issues that Google WANTS me to attend to.
It is a google issue but Google does not provide 'after-sales-service' so I have to look elsewhere for advice.
I have given more information - I hope it is enough; I will try what options my Google account offers.
Scroll down to the section "Show, edit, delete, or export saved passwords" and follow those instructions.

https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/95606?hl=en&co=GENIE.Platform=Desktop

I am NOT asking how to copy data between PCs - I'm asking about PC-linq or an equivalent. I still have a PC-Linq 'bridging - cross-over' cable that used to allow data transfer between 98E and XP in an effective and user-friendly way. I would like to use it between Win10 PCs. There is a 2018 post on the web https://answers.info....ith-windows-10 that claims it still works for Win10, provided it is installed and run As Administrator, and that the Compatibility Mode is set (for WinXP). I have done that and when it failed, I ran the Troubleshooter which came BACK with 'Mdi is incompatible'. Knowing that PCs often tell diagnostic lies, I figure that the software could be inadequate or any number of other gremlins could be causing the failure. I already know about work-arounds - the easiest being to use a USB-stick - and ethernet-wise, I KNOW that Team Viewer also works. After a great deal of effort, I've had NO success with networking through ethernet cable, so spare me reminders about THAT option. The only MODERN version of PC-Linq I could find, from USBGear https://www.usbgear.....fer-cable.html, has user comments at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GIGNVC which range from EXCELLENT to ABYSMAL - it does not work for me. I'm really NOT after work-arounds, or asking how to transfer data between PCs, but in finding out if anybody-out-there can reproduce the success in getting PC-Linq to work with Win10 which was claimed by the post I quoted. I want to cast a wide net by asking for help in forums.It may be that the Windows 10 systems that it worked with was Windows 10 32-bit edition vs 64 bit so, if you have 2 systems available for testing, INSTALL Windows 10 32-bit and see if you get better success with it. There are some differences in legacy support between 32 and 64 bit Windows 10 OS. Some older games run ok on Windows 10 32- bit but fail to run on 64-bit. Good Luck!I asked the question because I want to connect a x32Win10ProV21H1 and a x64Win10ProV21H1, so I did install it in both 32 and 64 bits.If that's not working at the SYSTEM that is 64-bit, can the 64-bit system be built up as 32-bit... No guarantee that it will work, but if it does work I'd think they are both running 32-bit.

If you have a extra hard drive kicking around you can remove the 64-bit build drive and test with 32-bit install without destroying a perfectly fine 64-bit build. Additionally if the system can have 2 hard drives installed you can boot select to 32 or 64 bit on the same system.

There are differences in legacy support for the Windows 10 32 and 64 bit systems and I'd expect that if it works that it would be the 32-bit pairing of 2 systems running 32-bit OS of 10.I did not see your reply because Gmail had put it into Spam; will be checking Spam routinely from now on. Your suggestion is interesting, and I can and will try PC-Linq between x32 systems - in due course. But that would be of academic interest only. In practice I need it to work between the x32 and x64 systems.

Hi all, I did put this topic on another forum but the guy there just barked orders at me to run commands without any explanation of what they do, and I don't get down like that. So I'm HOPING you guys can be a little more helpful!


I run around 4 laptops and 2 desktops in my house, plus phones. On all but 1 desktop and 1 laptop, I have zero issues.

I need to highlight that first because the problem is 100% not with my broadband or router (unless it's a combination of both)

 

Main issue, I had a W10 desktop build done for me last year from Punch Technology.

quick info

AMD Ryzen 5 3400G with Radeon Vega Graphics       3.70 GHz

Ram 16.0 GB (13.9 GB usable)

64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

Windows 10 Home

SSD ADATA SX8200PNP 500GB

HD 1TB ST1000DM010-2EP102

 

When I first got it the built in wifi worked fine

Realtek RTL8192EE - I recently updated drivers online but it had no effect

 

But after a couple of months it got slower and slower, now it is pretty much unuseable. If I do a speed test it runs around 12 MPS

 

So I copped a TP Link Wireless adapter, the AC1900, which runs at 110MPS - WHEN IT WORKS!!

 

Basically when I turn my PC on, the wireless adapter struggles to connect, or be recognised.

It dings as though I have just plugged in a USB port, then dings again like it has been removed.

Then does NOTHING. I take it out, put it in, take it out, put it in, disable it, enable, disable it, enable the Realtek, disable it, back to TP, connect, and then I'm in.

Once connected I stay connected and it runs perfectly. But how the **** do I get the bloody thing to start up first time?

 

Position of PC shouldn't be an issue, it sits where my old W7 sat, and the W7 pc has a BT adapter and is 6 ft away and runs perfectly every time.

 

 

To add to the mystery, I have a W10 HP laptop that actually belongs to my WORK, so I can do little with it without my IT support approving everything. But here's the thing, IT worked lovely for a while with it's Realtek built in wifi, and then IT also stopped.

So I got a TP-Link for that also, same ONE. Now when I turn it on, I get to the sign in screen within seconds, but it takes literally 15 minutes to get on to the desktop. The IT guy told me to turn off wifi each night and start without it, that didn't work.

 

So my assumption (likely wrong) is that these TP-Link adapters have driver issues in relation to W10. But how can that be? It's a massive brand, people use it all over the world, and when I search I don't find that this is a common problem and can find no resolutions.Some info

I'll take that as a no thenwell...sometimes wifi is not as perfect as it seems. so, first thing, you should check the settings for your card(s): https://support.cyberpowerpc.com/hc/en-us/articles/360014067574-Configure-the-Wireless-Adapter-Settings-for-Optimal-Performance
second thing is to disable power saving on your cards (device manager-double click on network card-power options...)
third thing I would check is settings on your modem/router. Do you have security options set to auto or manually to aes/wpa2? Try another channel. Try 20mhz or 40 mhz setting. You must know that speed of the wifi network is "dictated" by the slowest machine connected. Do you have a dual channel modem/router? Try older devices on n standard and newer on ac standard. Try updating firmware of the router if possible. Sometimes external usb wifi cards work better. So if anything else fails...stick with them.

Greetings!

Had a question regarding creating RECOVERY media on an off the shelf PC. Its been years since i've bought ONE but i've managed to get this acer machine with it's OEM install and it is horribly filled with trash to the limit.

i want to create DVD recovery disks like i did with my windows 7 era machines and below so that in the event i want to pass this machine on, i can reinstall the OEM install. Problem is i cannot find any options to do that in the OEM acer install. There is a recovery option, but it opens Windows Recovery drive options.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Also looking for this same option on a Lenovo.

Acer machine i am dealing with is a A517-51G-52LB

Thanks. If Win 10 was successfully installed and ran proper you can simply clean install Win 10...the registration is in the BIOS now...That is not my issue.

i want to preserve the OEm install on a DVD for down the road. the license is not a problem because i dont want to necessarily run windows anyways Quote from: comda on October 21, 2021, 11:30:45 AM

it is horribly filled with trash to the limit.

i want to preserve the OEm install on a DVD for down the road.

If Win 10 was successfully installed and ran proper you can simply clean install Win 10...the registration is in the BIOS now...

because i dont want to necessarily run windows anyways

Why do you want to preserve a backup of the OS that is "horribly filled with trash to the limit"?

I think i am being misunderstood.

You can use the Windows 7 method on Windows 10. Open 'Control Panel' > Backup and Restore (Windows 7) > Create a system image (upper left)

How well it will work is anybody's guess. MS has focused their energy on the installation media method.

That's my specialty... 

I can't connect to some internet sites. It says that the site can't be REACHED. I tried getting rid of the proxy server but it didn't work. A few sites work and some don't. I would try Windows Network Diagnostics that's suggested to me when the site says it can't be reached but that doesn't work for some REASON. It says an error has happened while it was troubleshooting. I don't what to do. I've unplugged the modem for 2 to 5 mins. and that doesn't work. I don't know what else to do. It can be a problem with secure CONNECTIONS. This would explain why some websites work (they use unsecure HTTP connections) and some don't (they use secure HTTPs connections).1) Click START and enter: CMD
    Right-Click on the Command Prompt Option and select "Run as administrator"   
    When the command prompt window opens type: ipconfig /flushdns    Press ENTER   
    Close the command prompt window and try the sites again   
2) If it's still an issue, see if the same thing happens with a different browserI was able to fix it. I think I just pressed the router button on my modem and it worked.

Below is a screenshot of my options for the sign-in screen. I do not see how to turn it off.1. Click the Start menu and type “netplwiz.” The top result should be a program of the same name – click it to open.
2. In the User Accounts screen that LAUNCHES, untick the box that says “Users must enter a name and password to use this computer.”
3 .Uncheck the box "User must use password etc.
4 . Hit “Apply.”
5. When prompted, re-enter your password to confirm the changes.
6. Click “OK” once more. Your password will then be removed, and no NEED the to sign in now.Kburra is right. That works.


Bur are you sure you want to do that?  Yes, I want to DISABLE the sign-in screen. I've never used one on my desktop at home. Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 26, 2021, 04:48:04 PM

Kburra is right. That works.


Bur are you sure you want to do that? 

1. Click the Start menu and type “netplwiz.” The top result should be a program of the same name – click it to open.
2. In the User Accounts screen that launches, untick the box that says “Users must enter a name and password to use this computer.”
3 .Uncheck the box "User must use password etc.
4 . Hit “Apply.”
5. When prompted, re-enter your password to confirm the changes.
6. Click “OK” once more. Your password will then be removed, and no need the to sign in now.

My text is too light and want to make it darker on Chrome browser. I've ALREADY did the clear text thing and also CHANGED fonts but still no luck.Maybe the brightness setting on display is set too bright and its washing out the text.

Have you tried to reduce the brightness of the display output to see if that will make it sharper/darker text?The only thing I found I COULD change was the nightlight settings and that didn't help.Try Personalisation settings in Control Panel...I did find a brightness setting in personalization but it didn't do what I wanted. Thanks for the TIP ANYWAY Patio.

I'm 66 so not up to speed like a teenager. A few days ago my computer stopped letting me reply to posts on Facebook, won't let me ADJUST volume on videos on FB or youtube, won't let me skip ahead or back on videos. If I try to share something from youtube on FB it won't respond. If I reply to a post on FB when I hit enter nothing happens. I have Windows 10. I have tried SYSTEM Restore but it won't work EITHER. What can I do?Try loading Facebook in a DIFFERENT Browser and see how that goes,personally I had to switch from FIREFOX,because every time it updates strange things happen to me similar as to what you describe. Used to love Firefox but now is a real PAIN. Incidentally you don`t say what browser you use,so just guessing here?I use Microsoft Edge which worked just fine up until a few days ago. I have noticed everything works on my tablet and phone, different browsers. I will try changing browsers but that's a hassle since everything else is on Microsoft edge.Just install different browser,then copy Facebook Link from Edge over to different browser only take a few minutes no hassle really,series of elimination ?

How can I ADD an update to the windows iso? It is not possible with programs such as ntlite to automatically install after INSTALLATION.Reading the web page, nlite HOME paid version  does support adding updates. Are you looking for a free option ? Lisa_maree YES to add update to free isoI WANT it like this for it to install automatically after installation Lisa_maree https://www.hizliresim.com/3oo2qw0You need the paid version...

Once upon a rime I used narrator in Windows XP. That was long ago. Long ago. And now I can not even start to use it to read out loud a document. I miss it. I need it.
Now I an a novice.
Yes, I have went into the help and have learned to start it and shut if off. But I still can not used it i a PRODUCTIVE way.
I just WANT it to read what is on the main PART of a web page. Why can't I do that? How do you tell it to start READING?

Neither SEARCH in Start, nor SEARCH in TOP right of the Explorer screen, can find ALL the '\quarantine\' FOLDERS - whereas I can find four 'manually'. Is there some other SEARCH mechanism/PROGRAM that is more THOROUGH than those two ? I've tried the search program called 'EVERYTHING', and it does no better.

Microsoft edge won't open in W-10
I can only restore  back only 3 DAYS which doesn't
do me any good.
I can't clear my history & cache because I can't open
microsoft edge.Do other browsers work?The other browsers work okhttps://support.microsoft.com/en-us/microsoft-edge/what-to-do-if-microsoft-edge-isn-t-working-cc0657a6-acd2-cbbd-1528-c0335c71312aNow I got my microsoftedge icon in the taskbar and when I righr
click on it I get small desktop pictures above the task bar{THUMB nails}You never explained the EXACT issue. First, how do you try to open Edge? Second, EXACTLY what happens when you try to open it?I click on start and then the microsoftedge icon and NOTHING happens. If I r  click on the icon
on task bar I get those thumb nails above the taskbarclick on START and in the search or run box type: msedge.com and then press ENTER. What happens?Cannot find msedge.comGo to the section on reinstalling Edge: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/microsoft-edge/troubleshooting-tips-for-installing-and-updating-microsoft-edge-a5eceb94-c2b1-dfab-6569-e79d0250317b I tried network scan trouble,no help I downloaded another microsoft edge Unchecked some program ect.
emptied recycle bin and some other stuff. Not getting it fixed
Did you follow the instructions below for resinstalling Edge (just downloading it isn't the same thing)? If so, I SUGGEST you contact MS support:


Here’s how to reinstall Microsoft Edge whether you’re a Windows or Mac user:

    Open any working browser. (Note: If you’re a Windows user and your Microsoft Edge is not currently functioning, to open Internet Explorer, type IE in the search box on the taskbar and then select Internet Explorer from the results. Or press the Windows logo key  on your keyboard and then type IE in the search bar.)

    Go to www.microsoft.com/edge to download and reinstall Microsoft Edge.

5. Restart your computer

If there's still a problem, restart your computer, and then try reinstalling Microsoft Edge again. To restart your computer, select Start  > Power  > Restart .
6. Contact support

If you're still having trouble, contact our support team.I'm confused on this I reset MEdge and I got the open Medge.I thoght every thing was going to be ok.
I turned the computer off for the NIGHT and in the morning it won't open.
Still could use some advice where to go. thanks for the help so far.

Does anyone know of a simple audio booster for my pc that will do no harm to my system? By that I MEAN change vital components of my pc. For example: I tried FxSound. After I installed it I lost all function in my speakers and a vital audio driver as well.When I look to boost my sound I tend to buy an external device that connects to the audio out of the computer and have that be the driver for the sound to be louder and richer sound. If the sound chip/driver combination isn't of a high enough quality then I'd install a sound card that will produce a higher quality sound output and then connect that to a quality sound system that takes an auxiliary input. No worries of damaging the computer this way or dealing with driver INSANITY if going with a name brand sound card that has drivers for the version of Windows your running.

If looking to make it REALLY LOUD and sound rich, high end guitar amps work awesome which have aux inputs. Just be sure to lower the volume knob on the amp or else you might send yourself an others around you through the ceiling when the computer makes a sound when unexpected of it to be making that sound. I use to connect my Roland 80 watt Amp to my computer when not using it for playing guitar and that was LOUD! It also had a booster button on it that make it even louder than standard setting.

Here is the amp I have CONNECTED to my computer. https://www.roland.com/global/products/cube-80gx/

Hello

How do I find/uncover deleted files on my Win 10 PC, please? The files have been deleted, sent to the Recycle Bin, and the Bin emptied.

Thank you.Obviously your BEST option would be if you have backups you've created. If not, you can try a utility such as Recuva (https://www.ccleaner.com/recuva). Moving forward, you should create disk IMAGES on a regular basis.Point taken, Allan. Many thanks for the link.

CheersFirst what kind of DRIVE are you RECOVERY the files from if it is an SSD the method used is different from the older mechanical DRIVES. If you are still using the computer the files were deleted from stop now and don't load Recuva onto the drive you are recovering the files from. Always attach the drive to another computer and do the recovery from there not the copy of windows with the deleted files.  Make sure you have a drive large enough to take the deleted files. Thanks for your reply. It's a SATA III drive.

This site cant PROVIDE a secure location
I got this message about 30 mins ago but sure what it means perhaps someone on here can advise.  Thank'sYou need to provide some context.I went into google to see I COULD find a way to get my printer back online.I looked at several sites without any luck and it was after visiting one of these sites that I got this message but cannot rember the sites name apologies for that.As I SAID in my other post I am NEW to all technical stuff.At the moment I can only USE the printer wired.

Hello everyone, My HP pavillion dv6 laptop keeps SHUTTING down after I installed windows 10. It was working fine for a while, but then windows started logging me out everytime I tried to log in. I tried to reset my pc but windows kept logging me out and eventually just started shutting down all by itself. I remember SEEING the screen saying "locking" at one POINT and I have never seen that before. I tried to reinstall windows with a USB but the laptop just forces itself to shutdown before windows can finish installing. I always have the power cord plugged in so I thought it could not be a power problem, but then I decided to take out the battery and run the laptop using the powercord alone and it shuts down a few seconds after powering on. I am supposed to be able to run the laptop using the powercord alone and no battery right? Am I not getting enought power to my laptop? MAYBE because I am in europe using an european to american power converter? the converter says 10A max 250V- . and , my power cable says input : 100-240v - 1.5A  50-60HZ and output: DC 19v --- 4.62 A

what could the problem be?I wonder if the laptop is overheating or if your power button gets stuck sometimes. My FIRST instinct screams malware to me, but you're saying that it shuts down when reinstalling Windows...

Hello, I am looking for a RECORDER that records both video and sound. I tried using the X-box game recorder on win10 but it records the audio through the desktop microphone and the quality of the audio is very bad as it PICKS up ambient sounds from the room also. Could someone ADVISE me and direct me to such a recorder? Or maybe I don't know how to correctly use the game recorder but I did look for options in the app. Thanks.Audacity will record sound but for a video you will need a video capture card. You can find one on Amazon for about $15. This will record both audio and video.Well, I live in the Philippines and getting a card through Amazon  is not an option. Is there no App that will do both? FYI, I found plenty of free recording apps on the net, some with restrictions and without. No help from this forumTURMS OUT 4k VIDEO VOWNLOADER IS THE BEST. Removed Quote from: SuperDave on August 03, 2021, 03:41:05 PM

Ok. Please try this:
    Open Microsoft Edge.
    Click on the Edge menu button.
    Click on settings.
    Click on Cookies and site permissions.
    Click on Notifications.
    Click on the “more” button right next to the Typiccor.com URL.
    Click on Remove.

    Open Microsoft Edge.
    Click on the Edge menu button.
    Click on settings.
    Click on Cookies and site permissions.
    Click on Notifications.
    Turn the switch “ASK before sending (recommended)” off.

Hello! I'd like to ask for some help, regarding a trouble I ran into.

Yesterday, I was recording my screen through the Xbox Game Bar; however, I cannot SEEM to find the file anymore. This is PECULIAR for me as this has NEVER happened in all my time using the Game Bar; whenever I finish a recording, the recorded clip is simply in the "Captures" folder. Thinking that maybe it was just SAVED elsewhere (even though I didn't rearrange the settings), I have searched just about everywhere in my laptop.

Perhaps there's a step I'm missing in trying to look for my file? Or did I do something WRONG?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you!

I've been having this troubleshooting issue ever since my ram memory card collapsed (I don't KNOW what other ways to describe it but it died).

Some sites can't be reached and always tells me to:
Check if there is a typo in www.roblox.com.
If spelling is CORRECT, try RUNNING Windows NETWORK Diagnostics.

While I did try to run windows network diagnostics, It opens up the troubleshoot but it doesn't work since it always says that an error occured while troubleshooting. 
What exactly is PROBLEM here? The ram failed or lan card failed? Memory stick can't just collapse??? Is your cmos battery failing?

Hey there, sorry if this is out of place as I'm unfamiliar with the forum but I'm at a loss here. I'm not great with computers and ordered a prebuilt, which was supposed to have Windows 10 pre-installed, but as far as I can tell, it was not. On startup it detected the SSD I have installed but did not list it as an available boot device and just left me to mess around in BIOS settings.  I went ahead and set up a USB in order to boot from so I could install Windows, but now I'm getting a message SAYING that I cannot install Windows ONTO any of the internal SSD partitions because they are all MBR and need to be GPT.

I'm very wary about using what's build in to the Windows installer to reformat because it's saying it will lose data. This is a brand new PC and I have no idea what SORT of system files I could lose by reformatting and I don't have anything with which to back them up available (and wouldn't know how to do it without an OS installed).  I looked around on the internet for some tools I might be able to use, but everything I found seemed to have guides for reformatting when Windows was already installed, and again, as far as I can tell it never was. I'd really appreciate any advice on how to proceed and LET me know if there is more info you all need. Thanks for any help you can offer!Hey, not sure if you've solved your problem. I'm thinking that your Firmware may have secure boot enabled and legacy mode disabled. If the firmware has legacy mode disabled, it won't boot off of MBR formatted disks in most situations. Converting GPT will 100% wipe the data on the drive because it's changing the structure and locations of the partition tables with different offsets for partitions.

It's been a while since I've played around with the windows installer, but does it show you a disk map with the list of partitions? How far do you make it into the install process before you're prompted to reinitialize the disk?It's kinda strange that you ordered preinstalled system but it wasn't. I for sure would check the order first if that is the case. And then I would simply return the pc to the SHOP and ask/demand for installing the system.
If you didn't payed for preinstall, then you should enable full uefi in bios. Or, like the previous post suggested, enable legacy mode.He hasnt been back since early July

I've been having some weird keyboard issues, here's the latest:

Win Key + Shift + S is not taking a SCREENSHOT.
All of the Win Key shortcuts I normally use are fine (Win + D, Win +X, Win + Number). I have run through the list of all relevant Win Key shortcuts, and there are a few not working - I had never used them, so I don't know if this is a new issue (Win + V, Win + Shift + M).

I can't remember the last TIME SPECIFICALLY I used Win + Shift + S to take a screenshot, but it's been within the last week.

Any thoughts?

I've had a dual setup for a couple of years now, 7 and 10 on the same hard drive. Recently i had upgraded to the 21h1 VERSION and all went well for a couple of weeks. Now, for some reason i cannot open Win 10. All the repair options failed. I want to reinstall 21h1, but LEERY if it would make me lose Win 7. In FACT, it seems the only way I could upgrade is using win 7. I tried the 21h1 TOOL upgrade and GET nervous when it gives me 2 options only to install...on existing pc ( which I want ) or on another pc. My question is how does the program know that i have an existing corrupted version and it should be overwritten with the new installation, and not jepardize my Win 7?

Hello,

For the past week and a half we haven't been able to get on the internet because the computer says no connections are available, when in actuality there are. Tried updating the drivers -- search "drivers," go to "network adapters," the video I was watching said "just uninstall a random one" but the computer only has one, Realtek PCle FE Family Controller. Trying to update it/do a hardware update scan yields no results, as it says everything is already updated and working properly. Also tried resetting the router, and nothing. I don't know what to do now. Turning the computer on and off randomly helped in the BEGINNING, but now it stays constant.


thanks
alexsunnyEnsure that the cable is plugged in securely on both ends (computer and router).  Try using a different cable.  It's possible that the network adapter in your PC has failed.  In that case you can purchase another one to ADD to your computer (provided you have an expansion slot available).  If not, you can get an adapter to be able to plug your network cable into a USB port.

Most ETHERNET ports have at least one status indicator LIGHT that should glow green to indicate you are connected and BLINK to tell you when data is being transferred.  Do you see any similar lights on your computer?He was a spammer strollin...

I'm getting THOROUGHLY fed up with the way that Windows 10 Updates keep messing up my laptops!

EVERY time an update loads it activates the "Better USB Driver" which promptly SHUTS down access to most of the peripherals I use until I force it to go back to the old driver (and the REVERT option is always greyed out  creating far more work than necessary).  Since one of these preipherals forced out of connection is a huge worldwide selling unit which relies on USB connection to operate, it can't be simply written off as outside their remit to include compatibility.

Also EVERY time after Win10 update PowerDesk reports an ISSUE with the key and will not LOAD, and I have to use compatibility mode to force it to work again.

GGGGGRRRRRRRRR   
 Have you tried disabling driver downloads?: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-disable-automatic-driver-updates-windows-10

Hello,
few weeks ago i have installed Windows 10 Home. Everything was working fine at the beginning but now once in 2-3 days my screen turns dark green and  i can't do anything. The only option is to restart the PC with the button or wait few minutes and then the PC will restart automatically. Also when the green screen shows up there is no "Your Windows RAN into problem.." text, it's just completely green. Does anyone have any idea what can be the issue here?I don't know if it could be helpful but it's 64-bit version. And before win10 I used windows 7.so today it happed again and I was in the middle of writing something on my GAMING blog and since I don't have an auto-SAVE option I lost about 30 minutes of my work. This time it actually said this lovely MESSAGE "Your PC ran into problem" I took a photo so you guys can see it as well. Maybe doing backup and then general PC format and reset may be the answer to fix this?Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected ITEMS, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply

Hello i was away for 3 months and now that i came home i have FORGOTTEN my windows 10 login password... i cant even remember the answers to my 3 secret questions... i remember 2 answers but its not enough.. in the BIOS settings i found “admin password” and “USER passowrd” i cleared both but didnt work.. i had changed password lately but i do remember an older one in case we can somehow restore the pc to a previous date.. please help me how can i reset it and login back in? P.S. i dont WANT to lose my files in the ssd!Sorry. Forum rules do not ALLOW anyone to help with recovering the password.Topic closed,.

Dear Brother.....Blurry / grainy / noisy video quality on youtube and  my Media Player... After reinstalling my Windows 10 this ERROR happended...Please GIVE me suggestions to fix this problem...Eagerly WAITING for your replyDid you re-install ALL drivers after Windows ? ? Quote from: patio on October 11, 2020, 01:31:10 PM

Did you re-install ALL drivers after Windows ? ?

Hi,

I've been having this problem for a while but I'm only now taking action on it. I thought I may have a virus or some malware so tried to download Malwarebytes. I downloaded it and installed it with no problem but when I go to run it an error message pops up SHOWN below.

I then have to close the error message about 8 times as it keeps popping up and then it goes away, but the program doesn't start. This has happened with a number of programs I've run and it happened with Windows 10 Upgrade Assistant until I factory RESET the laptop and now that has gone away. The first error message it showed would be HPAudioSwitch.exe - Bad Image.

Code: [Select]C:\windows\system32\wbem\wmiutils.dll is either not designet to run on Windows or it contains an error. Try installing the program again USING the original installation media or contact your SYSTEM administrator or the software vendor for support. Error status 0xc0000020.

Please help, thanks.