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while i was INSTALLING new NVIDIA drivers it started not responding then i got blue SCREEN of death, now my pc programs keep on freezing every time i use programs even MOZILLA firefox and chrome. when i play games it freezes for about 5-10 seconds or longer DEPENDS on the game.
i have a Intel core i3 cpu
gtx gforce 650 ti gpu

can someone help?

I cannot find out what kind of power supply or motherboard The Cyberpower Pc Gamer xtreme gx630 Gaming DESKTOP has, I know it has a r9270x gpu and a i5-4670k processor. A friend of mine wants to buy one and does not know how to build one, and I do not like building computers for others cause if something GO's wrong its on me. Thanks...I can't find it either but I doubt it's good. Unfortunately most of those prebuilt Cyberpower ones do not usually use good PSUs so I would buy it with the intention of replacing it.  The motherboard is ALSO impossible to identify, I have seen lots of Gigabytes in Cyberpower systems but also a few MSIs.

Alternatively you can order a custom built machine directly from Cyberpower where you could select a better power supply, they offer some EVGAs and some Corsair CX UNITS which aren't the best but are miles better than the generic one that the prebuilt likely contains.  This would also let you pick a better motherboard.

I have an Asus G74 Laptop, approximately 3 years old, and as of today a see-though yellow spot has been appearing in the top left corner of my screen. It is about one inch in diameter. This happened the first time when I had an emulator to play Clash of Clans open, and stayed there for about fifteen minutes. It was STILL there when I was at my desktop and in my League of Legends client, but went away when I ALT + TABBED over to google chrome. If I go back into the Clash of Clans emulator it re-appears. Is this an issue with the clients I'm using to play games? Or am I at RISK for a pixel going out?

You are very helpful, thank you for the assistance, I'll be sure to check out those brands, 2 quick questions before I head off, is my hardware compatible? And can I access the ssd the same way I would with the hard drive, in the "my computer" ?

I need some info or advice for a computer build, All I really need is ram ( I want to to fill windows 7 64 bit full). And a good gaming motherboard, I prefer gigabytes but am open to all. budget 140.00 dollar's. I have a Intel core i5-4670k LGA1150 processor, Antec 900 case ( may buy a cool master haf  later). Running windows 7 64 bit, Now I heard that this ones important, Have a GeForce GTX 750ti, and a Corsair  CX750m power supply.I think broni  gave me some advice on a build years ago and that set up is still working today. Thanks.As far as a motherboard goes I'd focus on getting one from either Gigabyte or ASUS with a Z87 chipset.  Unless you are doing something crazy, something like the Gigabyte GA-Z87-HD3 would be fine (assuming ATX is okay for you).

Now for the RAM, what do you mean by filling Windows 7?  Home Premium has the limit of 16gb and higher editions support up to 192gb.  There is no point getting tonnes of RAM purely to "Fill Windows 7", GET a reasonable about of RAM for your needs otherwise you are just wasting money that could be put towards more important things like a video card.  For most uses 8gb is more than enough.

If you haven't yet bought the 750ti, I would then use the remainder of your $140 budget to see if you can bump this up to a 760 as this will give much more benefit than tonnes of RAM.  You may also want to think about an SSD as this will really make the machine a lot snappier.Thanks for the reply, I have windows 7 professional 64 bit, So it will support lots of ram, did not mention that, also I have ALREADY bought the 750ti. What is ATX? I really like nividia over Atm as far as video cards. yes I have been thinking of an SSD never put one in a computer. my concern is will all the components work together like the motherboard and the cpu 1150 socket, do they match the bored  you mentioned, and if so will it gel with my VID card, and so on.That board I mentioned will work with all of your parts.

I would definitely get an SSD, it will just act like a hard DRIVE and be C: and your regular hard drive for storing large files would get a different letter assigned to it.  As far as SSD brands, look at Crucial and Samsung.what kind of ram do you recommend? And What Is ATX?.... I like the Z87 chipset will do some research on that. And I will get a SSD also. Quote from: Mruniverce on August 01, 2014, 12:04:15 PM

what kind of ram do you recommend? And What Is ATX?.... I like the Z87 chipset will do some research on that. And I will get a SSD also.

Thank you young man, you have been very nice and helpful. You remind me of my Son, great young man. You seem to have the right attitude and respect for those who need help. Keep up the good work.

what do you think about the Asus Z97m at Newegg for 126 dollars?.

Greetings CH!

Im Very Close to STARTING school soon and was cleaning crap out and ran into some old TOWERS of mine.. I want to build/put together an older gaming machine.. I enjoy games such as the Doom series, Grand theft auto Vice city, 2, Jazz Jack Rabbit, Duke Nukem, Toca Race Driver 2 etc. As you can see some RANGE from early Dos gamers which i did on a Pentium 1 years ago and others need a LITTLE more power. What do you guys suggest in the terms of board and CPU? I have a few Pentium 2 boards, a P3, An AMD Athlon board with CPU at 1.2Ghz. I know i should be running WINDOWS 98.. What do you think? SuggestionS?

Alright so here is what I got so far. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9QLkHx

I've already got the case ordered, next week I was thinking of ordering the motherboard. Could you guys take a look at what I have so far and GIVE me some advice on where I could do better with around the same budget as I have so far? I haven't found a video card yet, still haven't decided on ONE.So far that looks pretty good.  Only part I would consider changing is the motherboard for a better brand such as Gigabyte or ASUS - AsRock are a lower END brand yet aren't that much cheaper than a much better one.

There is no real point buying parts at different times, I'd just wait and get them all at once.  That way you won't have any issues with return PERIODS or wasting part of your warranty while you order the rest of the parts.  Also, if you are buying multiple parts from one retailer you will usually SAVE on the postage as this will combine with ordering multiple items at once.

I have a Dell Inspiron 1525 with a t9300 processor, 3GB ram, WIN 7 OS.
When i plug in some USB sticks they DONT show up in the computer like other drives.
I RAN the hardware trouble shooter but no cigar. Can you help?

   Thank You
   DanFront or rear USB ports ? ?
I got it fixed. Thanks ANYWAY for answering.

I switched PC on today and first time ever, it is unresponsive after 6 years of great service.  Keyboard and mouse wont work or light up, monitor working but will not interact.  PC fan is louder than usual and keeps giving 4 beeps then a pause, 4 beeps then a pause and so on.
I have unplugged everything and started all over and still the same.  Baffled about this, and wonder if anyone has any idea what it could be and if I need to have a repair man to it.  I HOPE it's something I can fix myself but I'm not technical  Dont WANT to LOSE all my stuff that I havent backed up. Look up the beep codes Dell's site...they should give somewhat of a clue...
Thanks PATIO, I'll give it a try. By all means let US know how it goes...

I've had this custom built pc for over a year, I didn't make it but I bought it from some dude who custom built it for himself.
It's great but it has problems booting or returning from being asleep.

I'd LOVE to turn my pc to sleep when I leave the house but half of the time it won't boot back on, or my peripherals won't turn on, or some other problem. I don't put it to sleep anymore because it CAUSES more problems than it fixes.

Lately it's been REALLY hot in my house. I've been turning my pc off while I sleep to keep my room cool for the past couple of days.



Problem day 1: Power on, case lights up, peripherals and monitor won't turn on. Press reset and it works.

Problem day 2: Power on, case lights up, peripherals power on, computer freezes at Windows logo screen.

Problem day 3 (today): Try powering on for about 20 minutes, case is lit up but peripherals and monitor won't turn on. I tried powering off and resetting for awhile. Eventually it all powered on, and my peripherals were lit up. It got to my desktop, but then my applications stopped starting up and I realized my mouse and keyboard were not responsive despite being lit up. I reset once and it FINALLY worked.

What could be causing this? As far as I'm aware, this pc has always had quirks trying to boot up. I've replaced the PSU from about 550w to 725w in the past 6 months. It's super annoying, my pc is great other than that issue. It would be nice to be able to turn it off.

Mobo: ASUS M5A97 R2.0
CPU: AMD FX-6100 at 3.3Ghz
Graphics: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7770 OC 1GB
PSU: Cooler Master Extreme 2 Power Plus 725W
RAM: 8GBHi

Could you check your Bios version , it's displayed when you are in the bios setup. That motherboard has 17 bios updates available and  and may need an update to support your CPU and the power features.

  Quote from: Lisa_maree on August 07, 2014, 04:02:06 PM

Hi

Could you check your Bios version , it's displayed when you are in the bios setup. That motherboard has 17 bios updates available and  and may need an update to support your CPU and the power features.

Hi

You just need the latest one. Some things to note if you can, backup your bios settings or at least write down the hard drive access mode. Backup the original bios before writing the new one. Also do you have another computer that you can get a bios recovery flash drive if you need it . If you don't it  would pay to make that before you flash the bios.

Hi
They are just safe guards

This is information on how to recover the Bios if something goes wrong
http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=M2N-E&s=24&hashedid=NFlvt10av3F7ayQ9&os=24&no=1722

And you can get the drive access mode from the bios set up under access mode.

You would be best to use a pen drive to update the bios . I don't know if the SD card will work.

If you do this incorrectly it could brick your motherboard so please read the Asus bios update procedure and ask if there is anything that isn't clear before proceeding.

Hi

A 2Gb flash drive will be big enough. You may be able to update the bios from within windows  as explained here
http://support.asus.com.tw/technicaldocuments/technicaldocuments_content.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&NO=714

 I have done this many times and not had a problem. But as it's not my board I just don't want you to not brick yours.

Hi

here is the motherboard manual if you haven't got it http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/M5A97_R2.0/E7438_M5A97_R2.pdf

Have a look at page 3-28 of the manual, I have always used the pendrive method never updated the bios in Windows.

That   ASUS Update Utility doesn't support windows 8.1 in the version I linked.

Please follow the instructions to make a boot pen drive and use that method

I want a pure sine wave UPS with line interactive or online technology for my 550W active PFC computer power supply.
The computer I will use them with is a Dell Inspiron 545MT mini desktop tower.

Are there any good reputed brands in India who provide pure sine wave UPS with line interactive
or online technology for home/office and home desktop computer use.
I want a pure sine wave UPS between the price of $166 and $333
is it plossible to get one in India, Mumbai. Thank You. Curious as to why a standard UPS wont work for you since this is just what looks like a normal off the shelf consumer computer?

I buy mainly APC UPS Battery Backups. APC is to me one of the best out there for quality and protection.

http://www.apc.com/site/products/index.cfm

The only time I ever had to get a specific UPS Battery backup model was when I needed to specify the low voltage threshold for when the UPS was to enable with point of sale equipment in which we had some ingenico credit card terminals that were very sensitive to low voltage and their 120VAC power supplies that make 12VDC would run around 10.5VDC when the grid feeding our store locations were running between 100 and 105 VAC instead of NORMALLY around 115VAC. This happened on hot summer days when too many people had the AC units on as well as the area around the store developed and the grid supplying all the homes, businesses, and new large hospital was struggling to maintain it all. I bought a specific APC UPS model that allowed me to go in with Windows software and a cable from the USB port of the computer to the UPS and specify for the UPS to intervene and run off of battery at a higher voltage than lower voltage, so the dips in power that would occur the UPS would kick in even though there still was line power but it was low voltage and the credit card system wouldnt have terminals crashing when people are making purchases. After programming the UPS to the different voltage thresholds I was able to place them under each of the registers, all 43 of them at a cost of about $130 per register USD. The model was a Smart-UPS vs the standard off the shelf UPS which has less features and they were 500VA units, and this was about 7 years ago. Since my computer power supply has Active PFC.（PF>0.95 at Full Load） I herd people saying on videos that if your computer power supply has active PFC and when the main AC power goes out and you have a older type of UPS, UPS which provides Stepped approximation to a sinewave, square wave your computer will imediately shut down. I also read that these regular older, square wave, Stepped approximation to a sinewave UPS suytems connected to computers with active PFC power suplies make the computer restart when the mains AC power goes out. Every year where I live there are a few black outs or a situation where there is a compleate loss of mains AC power and the power that I get from the AC is also dirty. So I just dont want to take a chance.

And your apc link does not work. In fact that was the first place I landed at when wanting to buy a UPS and have gone there a number of times before figuring out all this. Thanks.
 I agree with DaveLembke.
Most users of personal computers have little need for a high performance commercial UPS. You can get a solution using parts that are available in the current marketplace.

Look over the products available. a good PFC us desirable, but the the most important for your use. Thee are UPS devices that very fast response time.

Also, if you like to build your own, you can make a custom system with zero response time. You put batteries inside your desktop case to provide transient power.As said above, there is no real need for a fancy pure sine wave UPS for a PC - The only stuff I can see about issues with non-pure sine wave ones are random posts on forums, no actual evidence.

The fact is that pretty much any good quality, modern PSU will be Active PFC, companies will not sell UPSs that cannot power a regular, modern PC.  Just focus on getting a good UPS from a reputable manufacturer, if it does not work you can always return it as it is clearly not fit for purpose.Thanks Todays UPS's are really good and the higher end Smart and Online Models give you features that you can configure to set the thresholds etc. Unless you really need this for super sensitive to voltage dip electronics, I'd give a good quality consumer base model UPS a test. I have used base model UPS's for almost 20 years and never had any problems with systems rebooting or shutting down with them, unless the battery in them has died after 5 years and when the switch over happens in milliseconds the battery which is dead is unable to take on the load. The good thing is that modern UPS's will give you error conditions letting you know that a battery is junk inside so you dont have to find out the hard way when there is a power outage. Which reminds me I have 2 UPS's that I need to find replacement batteries for which both died at 4 and 5 years of use as i sharpie markered the installation dates on them to keep TRACK of age    Expect to have to replace this about once every 3 to 6 years. They seem to last longer actually in environments where the power has problems and they drain and charge frequently, while environments where the batteries are constantly topped off, the batteries build memory and go stale and die sooner than later. Since you have power concerns a UPS in your home or business should cycle through a drain and charge cycle and hopefully last you. Buying a good brand like APC will also ensure that the life of the UPS is 3 to 6 years vs dying sooner due to low quality lead acid gel batteries used.

The good name brand UPS's come with warranties that protect equipment that are properly connected to them from lightning etc.

More info here at this link which shows various types of UPS protection and design. The better ones allow for you to specify threshold of when to intervene with battery power etc, but they come at a premium and may have to be special ordered. I'd get a basic UPS and start with that to save money.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterruptible_power_supply#Double-conversion_.2F_online

Lastly .... be sure to make sure the battery is connected inside of the unit before use. Most come with the batteries disconnected requiring you to connect them to activate them, If you want to test it, you can plug in a lamp that is less than 100 watts into the battery backup side of the UPS after the UPS has been given about 8 hrs to charge and turn lamp on, and then unplug the UPS from the wall and the lamp will remain lit if the UPS is working correctly. Its very rare that they dont when purchased, and most models will give a tone or other warning indication if you have failed to connect the battery to the UPS because without the connection there is no backup power available.For what it is worth... here is a link to a discussion  about a PSU with integrated battery backup. Yes, there is such thing.
http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=826441
But it is not very effective  and/or very hard to do.I have already red this same UPS wekepedia articale and I went to your link arstechnica.com from there I went to dansdata.com the DIY article. It is nice and informative. Thanks.   I went to http://www.dansdata.com/diyups.htm the DIY article. It is nice and informative. Thanks.  the DIY article. It is nice and informative. Thanks.  FYI: Sine wive is NOT recommended for modern PC power supplies.
I think this post is credible and agrees with the GENERAL theory of electronics power supplies.
Quote

Some PSUs with Active PFC will not work properly with a UPS that outputs a simulated sine wave when operating on battery power. The UPS will usually fail to switch over to battery operation or it will make a bunch of audible squeals then report an overload or error condition and shut itself down. There's no way of telling if your specific power supply will cause this type of behavior unless you know of someone who has the same power supply as you and has tested it with a simulated sine wave UPS. There are the rare PSU test reviews that will actually test the PSU with a simulated sine wave UPS.

Actually the real problem is with the 230VAC regions. GO here check this thread out it is an eye opner http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3964. Thanks.

I need to know if this is a good build for the money. it is about $1000. I want good GAMING GRAPHICS on high, good performance, and something that is upgradable.

This is off the bundle order below. Tell me if I am on MARK or should change some things.

CyberPowerPC EOS 206S Gaming Case with Power-Efficient Power Supply, Black
Change
Adds $8.00
Your 1 Motherboard & Processor

CYBERPOWER PC AMD FX-6300 Vishera Six-Core Processor with Motherboard
5 out of 5 Stars(2 Reviews)
Change
Adds $59.00
Your 1 Memory

CyberPowerPC 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1600MHz G.SKILL RipjawsX Performance Gaming Memory
Change
Adds $45.00
Your 1 Hard Drive

CyberPower CPHD500 500GB Hard Disk Drive
2.5 out of 5 Stars(6 Reviews)
Change
Your 1 Graphics/Video Cards

AMD Radeon R7 265 2GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Graphics Card
Change
Adds $139.00
Your 1 OPTICAL Drive

CYBERPOWER PC Samsung 24x DVD+/-RW Dual-Layer SuperMulti Optical Drive
Change

Your 1 Operating System

CyberPower Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit Edition (PC)
4.3 out of 5 Stars(3 Reviews)
Change
Coolings

CyberPower CPFA1010 Liquid Cooling System 120mm Radiator and Fan
5 out of 5 Stars(1 Reviews)
Change Remove
Adds $48.00
Monitors

HKC 26" LED Widescreen Monitor (N2612)
Change Remove
Adds $190.00
Keyboard Mouse Combos

Cooler Master Storm Devastator Gaming Keyboard and Mouse
Change Remove
Adds $30.00
Networkings

CyberPowerPC PCI-Express 802.11ac WiFi + Bluetooth 4.0
Change RemoveThat looks okay but you would be much better removing the liquid cooler and spending the money on an even better video card.

Also, what power supply is selected there?  The default ones that Cyberpower put in their builds are generally pretty bad so I would ensure that you pick a better one.

for my S-I-L's HP Pavilion 753n rig. MB does not support SATA and I do not trust IDE/SATA cable adaptors. I see refurbished ones on Newegg, etc and was wondering if they would be reliable?  I guess there are still a few brand new IDE Internal HD's out there?

I would also like to upgrade RAM but based on the Crucial scan and HP specs, it appears the max she can take is 1 GB? Can anyone confirm the 1 GB upper limit? Thanks. If indeed your HDD has gone bad, you must replace it ASAP.
Refurbished IDE drives are a good investment if the vendor is honest. NewEgg is a well-known vendor and can, IMO, be trusted to honor the warranty.
There are other vendors out there. You have a choice. N notice that many show up first in a search because they pay the search engine company  to do that. But that might not be bad.
Some offer very low cost, but they get you on the shipping.

Yes, I agree. Get an IDE drive rather that use an adapter. New IDE is now getting harder to find, so refurbished is a good choice. See if you can get it with a one year warranty
IMHO you should not pay more that $60 for a refurbished PATA drive. (IDE). Abd less that $10 for shipping. And a warranty of at least 90 days.

EDIT:On eBay there are over 1,000 IDE drives for sale under $90 and some with FREE shipping. Of course, shopping on eBay has its ISSUES.




There's TONS of IDE HDD's available out there...instead of refurbished.
How hard did you look and where ? ? Quote from: patio on August 08, 2014, 08:41:17 PM

There's tons of IDE HDD's available out there...instead of refurbished.
How hard did you look and where ? ?

Yes...Seagate makes fine HDD's.

Thanks Patio. What do you think about the relatively high failure rates for Seagate experienced by Backblaze? Maybe failure rates for large commercial drives do not apply to small internal drives?

...
So, Newegg sells 160GB IDE WD for $60 vs $30 for Seagate. What does the extra $30 get you? It appears the drives have the same specs and warranty. Too late though, I already bought the WD and Newegg says it is too late to change the order. Oh well.

Under the terms of the agreement, Seagate will acquire WD for $4.5 billion in cash and 122 million Seagate's common shares valued at $6.8 billion, based on a Seagate closing stock price of $55.92 as of April 1, 2014.

... transaction has been approved by the board of directors of each company and is expected to close during the first calendar quarter of 2015, subject to customary closing conditions, including regulatory approvals.
Seagate expects the transaction to be immediately accretive to its earnings per share on a non-GAAP basis, excluding acquisition-related expenses, restructuring charges and ...

I have recently completed a new BUILD with minimal amount of returned parts and only a few shouting matches with suppliers.  I thank this forum as well as Tom's hardware, Windows forums, PC Picker, and others for the help.  I started by buying books which were great...but...they are out dated when they hit the stands.  This field moves fast.
 
I used an older China made metal case for my build.  I has no company name and very few distinguishing marks but seemed substantial and could save me a few bucks.

For the most part that worked, but then I experienced a download problem that went away after a reboot, then a blue screen that said if it shows up again contact admin (that's me).  Well, all this worked its way out but left a particular electrical problem that has been DRIVING me nuts.

Symptoms are 1. Start and boot up only while laying on its side. Works fine.  When standing up, Trouble.  The front switch seemed bad so I took the face plate apart and found a non removable switch and seemed ok after a cleaning and worked. I checked and reseated all leads and so far everything checks out but...this kind of thing plagues me.  This is the kind of thing that happens to a race car due to extreme pressures.  My case is subject to occasional bumps and has to be turned off now and then.  This has the earmarks of a loose wire but I have not been able to find anything wrong.  Any thoughts from the experienced repair folks?



Check RAM modules. Reseat if necessary.
Agreed...
Also double check all MBoard standoffs are in place as well.Excellent advice.  However, this is what happened...I took everything apart ...  Checked all the fittings including the faceplate switch and found nothing.  So, I put the whole thing back together and  it worked.  I, then took it from the work area to the computer DESK, bumped it while hooking up the case and it quit working. I then laid it on its side and it started working, back to the desk...bump...no workee...back on its side...workee...very carefully back to the desk.  Hook up and everything works fine.  Since then, there have been several bumps and its working fine... go figure...??

I looked up strib nicht vor mit-Rammstein.  Very dramatic. I recommend  an English singer "Lily Allen" very clear message...Sometimes a loose part, intermittent connection, or small solder ball the size of a bic pen ball point could cause the problem you have. If your lucky it was a solder ball that finally worked its way out and fell to the bottom of the case.

 If its a lose part stray in the system such as a screw or washer etc usually it can be heard when rotating the computer and you will hear it dropping around inside. * On some cheap cases the rivots have been known to come loose and part of the rivot will drop onto sensitive electronics.

With this here the only safe diagnostic is to wait and see if it comes back as a problem. A dangerous method is to try to induce the problem to come back and burn up electronics if its a severe problem.Hi

if you have a mechanical hard drive , please Don't  bump the computer when it is running that causes bad sectors which will shorten the live of the hard drive also cause the computer to slow down.

Do you have a motherboard speaker attached ? If you do what is the beep code when the computer wasn't starting?

Also what motherboard do you have ?

when it wasn't  starting when stood up did nothing power up or nothing on the screen but the fans and lights were on.

I'm trying to find whether it is a motherboard case problem or possible power supply problem.

After you built the computer did you run the shake test to check for rattles like dropped screws ?

If you found this helpful please press the thanks button

Lisamaree

  Quote

If you found this helpful please press the thanks button

Seriously ? ?

sigh.

Hello,

I have a Lexmark OfficeEdge Pro4000 printer. A few days ago when moving a piece of FURNITURE I gently struck the ink CARTRIDGE access door (this door is used in case one has to install and uninstall cartridges.) There did not appear to be any SERIOUS damage to the door or to the printer and when I tried closing the door back, it closed fine and made the "click" sound. However, it also started asking me to "Install Ink Cartridges" pointing to the black cartridge in particular even though I had not seen this instruction before. SINCE then I have removed all the cartridges and re-inserted them, opened a new black cartridge and inserted it but all of this has been to no avail. I have also unplugged the printer and plugged it back ~ 4-5 times. Inspite of this, I keep seeing the same error messages "Install Ink Cartridges" followed by "Close the Ink Cartridge Access Door." I am at a loss as to what to do and would be glad to have some help.

For further information, the position of the cartridges is from left to right - black, cyan, magenta, and yellow.

Thanks,
desimba

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]The answer given here is not what you want to hear.
Either you have to get a new printer or spend a lot of time trying to make it work.

Somewhere there is sensor that did not activate when you replaced the cartridge.

To fix it, try putting the old cartridge back in. If it works, that would indicate the new cartridge has sometime that prevents the sensor for working. Dirt, ink, a bit of plastic  tape. You need to LOOK at the grid of little bumps that connect it to the carrier. They need to be clean.

Picture from  http://www.cartridgeworldpasadena.com/tips-tricks-1/ink-cartridge-cleaning-and-maintenance
That is the best I can do. I have had the same problems. Really annoying.
Thank you for the suggestion. I will try it out.

Please let me know if anyone has any other thoughts or experiences with similar issues.

I purchased an intel celeron 1ghz, 256kb cache, 100mghz FBS processor as an upgrade to my old dell dimension 2100. This computer has a socket 370 motherboard, with an intel celeron 900mghz, 128kb cache, 100 mghz FBS processor stock. The computer was working fine, I just wanted to upgrade the processor. I removed the old celeron and replaced it with the new celeron 1ghz. The computer didn't boot, and there was nothing on the screen. The cpu fan did spin up, but the power indicating led on the case did not turn on. I then removed the new processor, and re-installed the ORIGINAL processor, and the computer booted no problem.

Here is a link for the new processor: http://www.cwc-group.com/ince1g10fsb2.html

Here is a link for the computer itself: http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/dimension-2100/manuals?c=us

I looked into the motherboard (here is a link:  http://www.ascendtech.us/dell-dimension-2100-motherboard-2e087_i_mb3del2e087.aspx) and it supports up to a 1 ghz processor so it should support this processor. I also  checked to make sure the FBS was 100mghz, which it is. I tried using only 256 mb of ram instead of the whole 512mb to see if the processor would booth then. Still the computer wouldn't turn on.

This computer is running an 80g hdd, 512mb of ram (between 2 256mb sticks), and is running windows XP. I'm running it off of integrated graphics. This is not my main computer. I just had it laying around and wanted to see if I could get it up and running.  I was wondering if there is a conflict with this processor working with this system, or even if the processor was DOA. Any response would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Jesse MaddenIs your BIOS flashed to the latest flash? Sometimes you need to be a version for example A06 to have a wide range of CPU support and you might be like A02 which is what it shipped with with the 900Mhz CPU originally.

If you find that this is the issue, then you flash the system with the 900Mhz in it to say A06 from say A02 and then after the flash is completed, then you can swap CPU's and it should work.

Only other reason for not working would be if the issue was a bad CPU etc. Do you know if this CPU is good or not?

Also, I have seen some motherboards extremely picky such as one that CAME out of an old socket 478 eMachine motherboard that claimed to support up to a 2.4Ghz Pentium 4, and yet the fastest it will run is 2.0Ghz. It came with a Celeron 2.0Ghz originally, and I was able to upgrade it to Pentium 4 2.0Ghz and get better performance. There was no newer BIOS flash for my Trigem Imperial motherboard for additional better CPU support. You may want to go with a Pentium III 900Mhz which would run better than a Celeron 900Mhz if the 1Ghz doesnt want to work for you.Hi, I contacted the person I bought the processor from and this is what they responded,

"That processor we shipped works, it was tested when it was POSTED and again the day it shipped.. This is a socket 370 Tualatin processor (The actual CPU CHIP is larger than the chip on your 900Mhz processor. I checked Dell's website and the dimension 2100 does not support Tualatin processors."

I suppose that is why the processor didn't work in that computer. I'll also check what bios version it is running.

Thanks,
Jesse MaddenThe problem the OP describes has happened before, many times over.
Before any attempt to upgrade a processor, one has  to check everything. Sad to say, but Intel confuses us with processor names and families that ought to be COMPATIBLE but they are not.Everything you need to know about CPU's is here:  http://www.cpu-world.com/

Hello to everyone,
After a problem using a software of hard disk partition, the hard disk becomes any more normal; when I tested with “Hd tune” it displays some red squares (but not many) at the end of scan errors; And when I tried to recover my data from the second partition that was deleted (because of wrong using testdisk) using “EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard Professional “ but when it gets to 96% it stops to CONTINUE, it never gets to 100% to be able to recover the data, because of the problem of hard disk I think

I request you to help me to recover my data from this partition. Thank you very much in advance
Hi

Whats is the make and model of hard drive please?

If you are using the partition recovery mode of EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard Professional you can cancel the scan for partitions before it gets to the bad sectors. Then it will start building the DIRECTORIES and files list for you to copy the data off. From what you have SAID I wouldn't be doing the recovery on that drive . But would image the drive first to a known good drive using SOMETHING like Rawcopy  from here
http://www.roadkil.net/program.php?ProgramID=22

The drive has bad sectors that haven't been remapped by the drive, so that means you should be running the drive for the shortest time possible hence the recommendation of the drive copy above.

I have a 4500 G510g-m AIO printer.I am using a wireless router.My question is how do I connect this printer to make it wireless and how do I make my other PC be able to print off of this printerHi

Does your HP 4500 G510g-m AIO printer have wireless support ?
Is it CLOSE like within a METER of the wireless router ?
Does your router support wireless PRINTING IE does it have a USB port

My Dell Inspiron (win8) would not boot up, took it to a shop and they installed new hard DRIVE.

If I put my old HD in a carrier - its a Seagate 500GB - what is the best software I can buy to hopefully recover my files?
The most important files are Quickbooks (.qbw) and ACT data base file.Hi Kerry

A lot depends on how badly damaged the hard drive is.
Did the shop diagnose what was causing the drive not to boot ?
If the drive was starting loading windows but stopping before the desktop or logon then free software could recover it.

If you were USING a password to log on to windows then you may need software that can access your profile.

If you entered a password when you first started the laptop before windows started loading then you need to do the recovery differently.

Some more detail would really help thanks
 
 This topic has been covered over and over again. Here is a link to a large NUMBER of prior posts here that might be what  you want.
Data Recovery OPTIONS - CH forums.
The shop tried to get the old hard drive working but there was a snag and they said an entire reload of Windows 8 was necessary which would wipe off all my data files.

So I decided to get a new hard drive and recover files from my old drive at my leisure. While I was at the shop, they let me look at my hard drive which they had set up so that I could drag my files onto another external hard drive. It was at this point I could not find the files I really wanted. Then the shop discovered that we could only actually apparently access the 'recovery partition' part of the hard drive.

So the shop did run some kind of recovery program and told me everything that this program could find they TRANSFERRED to a memory stick. But my guess is that their program only detects common file types, eg jpg/pdf and the like because I cant find the files I really need (ie Quickbooks and ACT! data files). Also all the files have been renamed with a number, but with the correct extension.

So, what I want to do is download a recovery program which detects all files (well, including Quickbooks and ACT! files at least) and then see if I can recover them myself. What is the best recovery software?

Obviously the hard drive I will have to put in some kind of enclosure.Thank you, that really helps.

I would try GetDataBack  from here  https://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm

You can try it and check that the data is recovered before you buy it.
I tried GetDataBack, but it was not successful.

I found the Seagate Recovery software online, its a free demo, so I have run a detailed search which took about 10 hours.

It has found folders/files which could be the ones I need, but they all have a red cross through them. I have found it impossible to find a manual online to see what anything actually means, but on the Seatgate FAQ section it says something to the effect 'a red cross means it was possibly deleted but it may/should be recoverable'

Anyone familiar with the Seagate Recovery software or is there another alternative.

Now I could send it to a lab, but I am worried they will not be able to recover and charge me anyway.Try here http://html5.litten.com/windows-file-recovery-series-part-4-recover-files-from-a-bad-hard-drive/

I was wondering if anyone knows why this situation is occuring when I set up a large RAM drive. I have 256 MB of physical memory. I have set up a ram drive of 32Mb. When I use a benchmark program, the RAM test and the Hard Drive meet or excel the manufacturer specifications. I get a hard drive transfer rate of about 40MBps (Manufacturer spec is 33MBps). The SDRAM ALSO shows high transfer too.

However, if I make the RAM Drive any larger than 32768KB (32MB), even by a single KB, the benchmarks drop to around 20-24 MBps for the Hard Disk and the RAM speed drops noticeably as well. Is there some wall that you are forced to lose performance by increasing a RAM drive beyond 32MB? Or could it be the RAM disk driver causing the problem? I use XMSDSK (Frank Uberto) which is touted as the best one you can use, which claims no 32MB limit, yet there seems to be a performance limit anyway. What's going on? I would like to use at least 128MB for a ram drive, because Win 3.11 can run just great on as low as 64MB, but getting stiffed on performance or putting excessive pressure on the hardware to do so is not in my interest either.You said 256 MB?
That is way,way too small.
Try 4 GB an d see.This is a hobby machine from 1997 I use as a DOS box a for old programs. Also for Win 3.x stuff as well that won't run on my 64bit modern PC without emulation.So the machine is an old 1997 that boots in DOS 6.11 or similar?
What CPU is it? Is it at least a 386?
Are  you using EMM386 to get into the upper memory?
What do you have in the autoexec.bat file?


Here is my autoexec.bat - I am using IBMDOS 5

ECHO OFF
LH C:\WINDOWS\MSCDEX.EXE /S /D:MSCD000
LH C:\WINDOWS\mouse.exe /Q
C:\WINDOWS\net start
LH C:\DOS\SHARE.EXE /l:500 /f:5100
LH C:\CRYSTAL\CWDMIX /C=13 /W=13 /L=13 /M=13 /F=13 /X=5
SET BLASTER=A220 I5 D1 T4
SET MOUSE=C:\WINDOWS
SET PATH=C:\WINDOWS;C:\WINZIP;C:\DOS;C:\PICTVIEW;C:\PACKET
SET TEMP=D:\TEMP
SET TMP=D:\TEMP
KEYB UK,,C:\DOS\KEYBOARD.SYS /ID:166
PROMPT $p$g
LH C:\WINDOWS\SMARTDRV.EXE 8192 192 /L /X
MD D:\TEMP
MD D:\CACHE

Here's the config.sys

DEVICE=C:\DOS\HIMEM.SYS /NUMHANDLES=128 /TESTMEM:OFF
REM DEVICE=C:\XMSDSK\SETXMSTO.EXE 131072
DOS=HIGH,UMB
REM DEVICE=C:\DOS\EMM386.EXE X=B900-C7FF I=B000-B7FF RAM M3 A=64 H=128 D=256 AUTO NOTR
DEVICE=C:\UMBPCI\UMBPCI.SYS 'instead of the above - works better saves lower memory - I don't run progs that need expanded memory anyway
DEVICEHIGH=C:\XMSDSK\XMSDSK.EXE 32768 'ramdisk setting
DEVICEHIGH=C:\CRYSTAL\CWDINIT.EXE
DEVICEHIGH=C:\CDROM\GSCDROM.SYS /D:MSCD000
DEVICEHIGH=C:\WINDOWS\IFSHLP.SYS
FILES=30
BUFFERS=11
REM STACKS=9,256
STACKS=0,0
LASTDRIVE=H
DEVICEHIGH=C:\DOS\SETVER.EXE
REM DEVICE=C:\WINDOWS\SMARTDRV.EXE /DOUBLE_BUFFER
SHELL=COMMAND.COM /E:512 /PMy bad. It is in config.sys where you put the EMM386.
Like this:
Code: [Select]DEVICE=C:\HIMEM.SYS
DEVICE=C:\EMM386.EXE RAM
DEVICE=C:\RAMDRIVE.SYS 32767 512 256 /e R:
Or something like that. The above makes R: as the ram drive. The disk sizew is at the max.
Quote

DiskSize
    Specifies how many kilobytes of memory you want to use for the RAM
    drive. For example, to create a 640K RAM drive, specify 640. If you
    don't specify an amount, RAMDrive will create a 64K RAM drive. You can
    specify a value from 4 to 32767. However, you cannot specify more memory
    than your system has available.

There are, however, some disadvantages to using RAM disks that you should know ... Still, for those of us without an SSD, this is a cheaper upgrade ...

Okay, so the trip to Best Buy didn't quite HAPPEN just yet... But I've made some changes to the choice of laptops that I might buy. Instead of purchasing the 11" Acer E3-111-C0WA ($200), I've considered two bigger alternatives:

The 15.6" ASUS X551MAV-RCLN06 ($230) and the 15.6" Toshiba Satellite C55-B5201 ($230).

The ASUS has a better customer rating (on Best Buy, at least), a slightly better warranty, and an appearance (in my opinion) vastly superior to the Toshiba Satellite. However, the Toshiba Satellite appears to have the better specifications (despite the two COMPUTERS being the same price.).

So... should I get the ASUS, the Toshiba Satellite, or stick with the Acer?OK. This is a new post because now you have found two other machines.
Well, this time it is really hard to see the difference. Before it was two DIFFERENT OS. This time both are Windows 8 and the same trial Office 365.
Are you sure  these really are two different computers?
Other than the name, I don't see the distinction.
Just pick the one that looks good to you.   

Both specs look identical to me, Personally I would go for the ASUS as they are generally seen as a better brand when compared to Toshiba.i think if the same price you should buy the better specifications as you said it should be the toshiba .
because when you want to PLAY your computer on the games or others ,you really hope your computer
can be in the highest specs . higher specs always come first

I need a cheap, small, fast laptop to use for basic tasks while I'm dorming at college. My current choices are between the Acer C720 (Celeron) (about $180-200) and the Acer E3-111-C0WA (which is on sale for $200 at Best Buy). I plan on SUPPLEMENTING whatever I get with a desktop later down the line. Which computer should I pick, if either?Your choice. Both are good.
You may want to consider what support the vendor has.
The second choice looks better in hardware specifications. http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.MNTAA.007
Standouts : Higher processor speed, 320 GB storage, USB 3.0 PORT, Windows 8.1 OS

The Acer C720 looks more the opposite.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/acer-c720-11-6-chromebook-intel-celeron-2gb-memory-16gb-solid-state-drive-granite-gray/2746011.p?id=1219077152618&skuId=2746011
As to whether Windows 8.1 is beer than Chrome OS is not a given.
Some may prefer it to Windows 8.1 for certain recons.
The brave  pundits believe a large group will leave Windows and go with Chrome in a few years. Or even sooner.
Reference that favors Chrome:
http://www.fool.com/investing/general/2013/09/09/googles-chrome-os-could-destroy-windows.aspx

Both are good as basic machines but the KEY difference that you will need to think about is ChromeOS vs Windows 8.  The Windows 8 one will give you a full computing experience with any Windows program you need to run.  The ChromeOS one will be much more limited as you will only really have access to Google Chrome however this does have the advantage of being a bit faster and likely having better battery life.

It really just depends on what you are using it for.camerongray
Yes, Exactly!  The OP has to decide.  Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 12, 2014, 09:26:06 AM

Yes, Exactly!  The OP has to decide. 

You will find Chrome severely lacking...but good luck.

Presently the  Windows OS is a small part of the MS income. They do not depend on it for the future. New stuff from the Software Ghat with feature cloud and mobile service.  Which is the same thing  Apple and Google are going.

Hey guys, so in a matter of 3 posts I have received tons of help, special thanks to Geek-9pm and camerongrey for the very helpful advice and information. I think I have come to a conclusion on my gaming rig. I am still willing to change it if NEED be, so tell me what you think.

Question: Will corsair vengeance PRO memory fit beside or underneath a Cooler master hyper 212 evo on a z97 maximus VII? 

Rig: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/JTBOT65/saved/NRvdnQLooks good, Only a couple of things:

• That CPU has a locked multiplier therefore can't really be overclocked, if you want the ability to overclock then you will need the i5 4690k.
• Why do you need the sound card?  Unless you have some sort of extreme audio setup, you would be absolutely fine with the onboard sound.  Personally I would leave it out at first then add it in later if you really feel that you need it.

Honestly I tend to not like overclocking, I have heard that in the long run it can cause damage to your CPU.

My wired optical mouse installs as unknown device on my Lenovo E 531 (6885TU). The mouse is a Optical 7d 2400dpi. I tried UPDATING my drivers but the same kept happening.Where you getting the drivers from ? ?A new WIRELESS mouse would be 20-30 Bucks BTW...I get the drivers from the lenovo site.
Is there specifically a certain driver I'm suppose to have?
If so, could you give me a link.
From the Mouse manuf. site,,,So, what would you recommend?Go to the website of the mouse manufacturer and download and install the appropriate driver.The mouse doesn't have the manufacture NAME nor logo.
Look: http://www.amazon.com/Optical-2400dpi-Gaming-Laptop-Pc-Computer/dp/B00KHYYW6C
 
Based on that alone i personally would buy a new mouse...Well, it seems to work on my other laptop (compaq).Just got a Onn Wired Mouse. It lights up but the mouse won't move and the right and left clicks don't work. The driver does install correctly.With the limited information given, here are your options.
1. Buy or borrow another mouse.
2. Buy a wireless mouse.
3. Buy another computer.

The generic mouse driver in Windows works GOOD most of the time.  Using different drivers does not OFTEN fix a hardware issue with the USB ports.
I'll try another mouse.
Thanks anyways.

Generally speaking, AMD’s chips are cheaper than their Intel counterparts. If your budget is tight, an AMD CPU is likely the best way for you to go. Once you’re above the $150 price point, Intel processors offer quicker and more powerful performance overall. Cost efficiency on AMD chips drops off when you’re in that area. Intel Core i5 CPUs have an ENTRY level price point of roughly $200.

I wanna build a PC and i dont know sure if all of this components are ok

Case : Corsair Carbide SPEC-01 Red LED http://www.corsair.com/en/carbide-series-spec-01-red-led-mid-tower-gaming-case
1.Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H97%20Pro4/
2.CPU Processor: Intel Core i5 4460 3.2GHz box http://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz
3.SSD Intel 120GB SATA-III 520 Series 2.5 inch 9.5 mm OEM Pack http://ark.intel.com/products/66248/Intel-SSD-520-Series-120GB-2_5in-SATA-6Gbs-25nm-MLC
4.VGA Card : Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 OC WindForce 3X 4GB DDR5 512-bit http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-radeon-r9-290x-windforce-3x-oc-review,1.html
5.Power Supply: Sirtec - High Power Element BRONZE II 600W,http://www.highpower-tech.com/ID/product_page.php?class=20100527154213&id=20110523153730#Features
6.RAm : Memory Zeppelin 2x4GB DDR3 1600MHz bulk http://www.price.ro/specificatii_zeppelin_kit_4gb_1600mhz_dual_channel_bulk_ze-ddr3-4g1600b_548946.htm
7.SSHD Seagate Hibrid 1TB, 7200rpm, 64MB, SATA 3

 I ask because a friend told me it's possible the source is too small or the VGA card too big for the  processor and may cause problems.  plz answer me thxThat looks okay but I would personally avoid AsRock motherboards and get ONE from Gigabyte or ASUS which are much better brands.

As far as that power supply goes, I wouldn't even think about that one!  The R9 290 will need at least 650w, probably  750w to be on the safe side, but this is talking about a QUALITY power supply, the one you linked looks like a very cheap off brand and I can't really find any information about it.  Stick to getting a power supply from a REPUTABLE brand like Corsair, XFX, Seasonic, EVGA, SuperFlower, Antec.etc

I am TRYING to scan a document on my HP F2430 all in one. Each time I scan this weird black line appears. When I print directly from the file in my computer the line does not appear, it is only when I scan the document. I have altered the scan settings many different times but still there is this weird line. usually vertical on the left hand margin. But like I said not when I print from a document on file. ANYONE have any ideas?Clean/replace the print heads...You mean a failure of the scanner. Right? Not the printer.
The lamp array in the scanner is BAD or has COME loose.
HP has a number of ARTICLES dealing with that and other models of all in one printers
This one may be a starting place.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documentSubCategory?tmp_task=solveCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=sg&product=3964426
The article  has some info for the scanner. You may have to clean the glass.

SIL's HP 753n has separate CD and DVD drives and both are original 12 year old jobs. Not 100% sure but think neither have burn CAPABILITY, just read. While working on this oldster, I discovered the DVD drive is not working just right. Unless you have a Win 7 disk installed, it will not GO through the boot sequence and allow boot-up from the C drive. As it tries to boot-up, you get a nasty grinding noise from the drive (I assume DVD, not CD). I got it to boot by changing the sequence to boot first from the C drive. Can I replace the old individual CD and DVD drives with one modern combo CD/DVD reader/burner? Thanks.You can... just be sure to get IDE as for your motherboard doesnt have the latest SATA. I have a few CD/DVD ROM drives that are combo drives from LG and they still work well although the burner feature only burns CD's not DVD's. I also have a few DVD-RW drives that are IDE ATA100 drives and they also work well. These have been obsolete for a few YEARS though and so you might have to hunt around for an IDE DVD ROM. *Also DVD ROM drives can read backwards to CD's so no need for a CD/DVD drive when a DVD drive would work the same. If you want to burn disks though, you will want to get a CD-RW/DVD or DVD-RW drive.

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&docname=bph07843

Lastly, if you wanted this system to have SATA drives, you could always add a PCI SATA 150 adapter, but modern 3 and 6 MB/s drives would run at only 1.5MB/s. This isnt a problem for optical drives, but will slow down a HDD or SSD to comply with the bus bottleneck of the PCI BUS.

*** Some BIOS's can be a pain with getting a system to boot off of a added controller card such as adding a SATA 150 controller card to the PCI slot. So not guaranteed to work with your specific system, but if it does work, you would be able to install larger capacity drives and new drives vs stuck with old.

Most would suggest replacing the Motherboard/CPU/RAM vs forcing the old motherboard to do new tricks, but I have forced old boards to run newer hardware before and so it can be done in some situations. Quote from: artbuc on August 17, 2014, 09:24:53 AM

Not 100% sure but think neither have burn capability, just read.

Still trying to see if there are some cheap easy ways to make this old thing work better and faster. I have read the on-board graphics are very slow on this machine. When I installed a basic graphics card on my old HP it made a huge DIFFERENCE. Not only did it eliminate artifacts apparently coming from my failing on- board graphics, it seemed like it loads pages faster, especially in Live Mail. Do you think a graphics card could help this old girl?Unless they are gaming, not at all.  You have already spent way more than the machine is worth on it, IMO spending more on a graphics card as well would be madness!

The machine is old, there is only so much you can do to speed it up. Quote from: camerongray on August 24, 2014, 06:58:19 AM

Unless they are gaming, not at all.  You have already spent way more than the machine is worth on it, IMO spending more on a graphics card as well would be madness!

The machine is old, there is only so much you can do to speed it up.

It seems cheap to you but IMO the machine is probably only worth $30 max, even with a new hard drive where you could have got a used Core 2 Duo PC for less.  But if it's worth that to you for "keeping everything the same" then so be it.

But spending more on a video card would be silly, it will not magically speed up the PC, the Pentium 4 and 1gb of RAM running Windows 7 is the issue there.

For used PCs I'd generally just look on eBay for brand name machines, I tend to stay away from used custom built ones as you have no idea what they are like inside.  Old business machines such as Dell Optiplexs with Core 2 Duo CPUs are generally very good value at the moment if you just need a solid office PC as a lot of them are coming out of leases with large companies at the moment and being sold on.

Unfortunately you can't just swap the hard drive as Windows will freak out, you would need to reinstall Windows on the new machine.  As far as licencing goes, you said the license was part of a Windows family pack?  If so that is fine and can be put on a new machine, just make sure that it is not also being used on the old PC at the same time.

Guess the best bet is to format the hard drive and install our own copy of Win 7, right?

Help please !

I have a monitor and tower PC and the cable that came with the monitor doesn't fit the PC. I've taken pics of the BACK of the PC and the Monitor. I don't know anything about cables. Would really APPRECIATE your help.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Looks like you need a DVI cable. ( OR DVI to VGA Adapter )

You probably have the smaller VGA cable to this monitor. With a DVI and VGA converter you could use the already existing VGA cable. This adapter plugs into the DVI port on the video card.Thanks. The pics are a bit rubbish but what looks like DVi on the Tower PC is a 59 pin DMS? (Not sure what this is but I googled 59 pin).
So when you say I need a DVI cable, are you saying the dvi connector would fit into the monitor (24 pin) and then VGA connector to the PC? DMS-59 is a special type of port that can SUPPORT up to two monitors on each port, it can do either DVI or VGA.  What you need is an adapter to convert the DMS-59 port to the DVI port on the monitor (DVI is better than VGA).  Something like this would do: http://www.amazon.com/Molex-DMS-59-8-Inch-DVI-I-Adapter/dp/B000BFGXOQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1408651894&sr=8-3&keywords=dms-59+to+dvi.  That will then provide two DVI ports so that you can connect your monitor (You will also need a DVI to DVI cable if you don't have one already).thank you for your help. that makes sense to me. Glad you got it all figured out. Thanks Cameron for help with this one. When looking at the pics it looked like a Dual-DVI video card, and i figured that it was probably the lack of a VGA port as I have seen before with SYSTEMS.

Hello,

I'm using Win7, intel i5, asus motherboard

This morning I tried to boot my PC and I got an error message; "Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot MEDIA in selected boot device and press a key"

I have 2 HDS. I disconnected the SATA cables from both drives, but left the cables connected to the motherboard. I then then reconnected my OS HD with the storage HD's cable. I am wondering if if the BIOS registers cable swaps LIKE that? The answer to your question has to be qualified.
Some companies, like HP, will detect any change and  report it ti the user for confirmation. But MANY other PCs will not report the change.
Also, there can be other issues.
 Such as:

• A failing hard drive
• A failing power supply
• A failing firmware chip
• Something else

Ok, I have 1 dimension computer. Let me state its problems.
Power button not lighting
Diagnostic Lights : A (green)     BCD (orange)
I PLUG the computer in, I hear the fans whirring up and everything.
Monitor will not come on. Stays a steady amber.
Someone tell me whats going on?
Hi

That error is No memory modules are detected.

Dell's course of ACTION for that error is

If TWO or more memory modules are installed, remove the modules, then re install one module and restart the computer. If the computer starts normally, continue to install additional memory modules (one at a time) until you have identified a faulty module or re installed all modules without error.
If available, install working memory of the same type into your computer.

Hello,
My PC jams very frequently, be it while opening several tabs on my browser, any noticeable software (i.e OFFICE, adobe reader, ITUNES) and while WATCHING vidoes or gaming (though not as frequently as the former two). My guess is that the more MEMORY demanding the action is, the more likely it is to get stuck and for a longer while.
By stuck I mean that the mouse cursor cannot be moved, the fans seems to be working themselves more than usual, and pretty much nothing I do stops it other than waiting; the duration is USUALLY between a good part of a second to several seconds.
I recently formatted my unit to windows 8, partially so as to remove any doubts regarding this being a software issue, obviously to no avail. I dusted everything and made sure the CPU's temperature is decent; other than that I'm pretty clueless. I use the newest and updated avast anti-virus and malwarebytes, so I don't believe it to be a virus or a malware.
What should I do?What make/model is this computer?

Have you performed a memtest with memtest86 to make sure that the memory is healthy?

Is this the same system that shows up in your spec link?

Hello. I have Windows 7 Home Premiem 64 bit. I have Lexmark X5650 printer. I had used the printer on my old XP MACHINE with no problems. When I got the Windows 7, I didn't realize or think about a certain process for connecting the Lexmark & I just plugged it into the tower & then RAN the install disc that came with it.

It worked OK, but I had to restart the PC every time I wanted to do a print job, or if there was more than 1 print job in the queue, I had to restart between every job to get it to print. Only other thing I had noticed was if you tried to cancel a job in the print queue, it would just say "deleting" & never do anything.

I decided that maybe a reinstall would resolve the issues. I deleted all Lexmark programs from uninstall programs & removed the Lexmark from devices & printers. I used the install disc again, not knowing I should start with the usb cable for the printer unconnected until the install process says to connect. I know better now.

My issue is that when I go thru the install process, when I get to the screen where it says to connect the usb cable now, I connect the cable, I hear the 2 sets of noises the PC makes when something is plugged into it, but the continue button on the install screen stays faded out & never goes to where I can click to continue with the installation to complete it.

I have gone to the Lexmark support site & have downloaded the correct DRIVER for Windows 7 64 bit. I have uninstalled all Lexmark programs. I have tried shutting down both the pc & printer & unplugging from electricity, I have basically tried everything that I have found doing searches for this issue that seemed relevant to my specific issue. Any info I have found doesn't help. I haven't come across anything in my searches that was exactly my issue.

I just can't think that either the printer or pc suddenly broke in some WAY. The printer worked previously, although with the few issues I mentioned above, but at least I could print. My feelings are that this can be resolved, I just don't know how to do it.It is not just Lexmark that does that kind of thing.
Here are link specific to your issue:

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-hardware/unable-to-install-drivers-for-lexmark-x5650/5e04d88b-3175-4972-9682-08bd702da537

http://www.ehow.com/how_6756364_uninstall-lexmark-printer-drivers.html

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091114175028AAlCsGz

I do not wish  to bad mouth Lexmark. But you should buy something else next time.
Like maybe an Epson
http://www.tech-specs.com/compare/lexmark-x5650-n49171386,epson-workforce-m-200-n80033944
Hope this is of some help. 

Believe it is made by Hatachi, probably before WD bought them. Reviews I have read are mixed with about 50% saying excellent and 50% saying horrible. Not much middle ground. I would appreciate any hearing about experience you folks have with this HD. Thanks.I would not use an Hitachi drive in an external case.  Buy either a passport Western Digital or a case USING an SSD if you want say 128gb of storage that you can CART around. For larger amounts of data consider a powered desktop hard drive like the Western Digital mybooks.    Lisa_maree is being very conservative. 
Most venders will offer some kind of warranty. If a drive is defective or weak, it shows up in the first days  of use and testing.  You can use a diagnostic utility to test the drive. Western Digital has a free utility for generic drive testing and will catch the most COMMON drive problems.

On of the concerns about external drive enclosures is ventilation and heat dissipation.Aluminum is better that plastic. Also, PAY attention the power supply. Some can barely run the drive motor. Most vendors offer some kin of exchange if you find an enclosure that is POORLY made.

Hey guys.

I've been having problems with youtube videos either making my PC freeze or turn off. I've tried it in the latest Chrome (HTML5) and Firefox (flash).

I've just bought a new GPU - R9 280x (latest drivers)  and the problem persists. I had a GTX260 before.

I can't work out what it could be!

I've tried different browsers, plugins and graphics cards! Oh and I've run memtest with no errors.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

win 8.1

Edit - I've watched things locally and using Plex over a network with no issue Did you do a Google search?  This has been a problem for many this past year.
The most relevant might be this posting on Tom's HARDWARE.

Computer freezes during Youtube
The post vectors into many related issues. They say turn off video acceleration. Try another browser.

Also, not documented, overclocking the CPU can cause this.




Sorry for the long gap there.

I have tried turning off acceleration in Flash but it MADE no difference.

Also note that  Youtube HTML5 now instead of Flash for a lot of it's videos.

My CPU is running at stock.

I'm still having this issue..... Any other idea?Well, there are a lot of people saying what  you say. They have problems that look like hardware issues, but only on you tube. Note that You Tube requires Flash and there are some issues with Flash.  And you need also the latest version of Java.

Other kinds of video players do not need Flash and Java, so you will not see it on other things which  use other media readers.
This look like the definitive collection of  people who complain about it.
Code: [Select]https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chrome/Trcisu0LHQ8[201-225-false]
(Not able to post link, copy and paste it.)
Issues with Flash? Problems with Adobe Flash or YouTube Videos?

It is a long, long thread. HOPE it helps. 




I suggest you download and install CCleaner and run its Cleaner utility.  Once installed, you will see the Cleaner button at the top of  the left column when you open CCleaner.  The default settings are fine for most users.  No guarantee this will HELP but no harm in trying and it might, indeed, resolve your problem.

The regular version of CCleaner does come bundled with a toolbar.  You can unselect it during installation of CCleaner.  Alternatively, you can get the Slim version, which does not have the toolbar bundled with it; otherwise, it is the same as the regular version.  If you start with the Slim version and you want to stick with it when updating CCleaner to the latest version, you need to observe which version (standard or Slim) you're downloading when you update; otherwise, you might end up with the standard version when you intended the Slim version.  You can either download CCleaner from the links I have embedded here or directly from the maker, which is http://www.piriform.com/ccleanerOk, I've run CCleaner, done a clean install of Flash and tested Youtube on Firefox with the Flash plugin with the problem persisting.

So I can rule out:

Browser
Graphics Card
GPU Driver
Flash version (tested 14 and 15beta)
Flash hardware acceleration

I'm GOING to try downgrading to a Flash player from 9 months ago...

Hello, I just UPGRADED my gaming/video editing PC. I upgraded to the z97-pro asus mobo, and the haswell i7 4790k. I put it all in with the Corsair H90 (What I think it is...) water cpu cooler. I used the Artic Silver 5 thermal paste. I applied it using the grain of rice method. I pushed down and applied pressure. I pulled it BACK up, to wipe off and dab any excess that I believed would interfere or otherwise. Now I start up, no issue per say, and went into the bios setting to take a look. The CPU is sitting at 88 degrees Celsius. Now I am wondering, is there any possible reason why it would be this hot on start??? Too much paste or maybe bad CPU cooler??? I mean I just installed EVERYTHING and started it five minutes ago. First time starting it...

p.s. The cpu cooler is the same I used on the i5 processor I took out. The i5 never got over 50 degrees Celsius. I think the highest the i5 got was 45 degrees Celsius under load. Just to state here as well, I opened up to feel the area around the CPU, and it does feel pretty warm...When installing a Heatsink on a CPU, any time you remove the Heatsink in any fashion you need to reapply the paste. I don't know the extent of your "pulling it back up" means, but it doesn't sound like it would let the Thermal Paste remain useful.

of course it also raises the question of how there could be any excess whatsoever if you did in fact only use an amount equal to a grain of rice.I did re-apply... I wanted to clean off the first set of thermal paste, and apply it with the thermal paste that I bought with it. Pulling it back, means I took it OFF, and LOOKED at it. I seen a little excess, or I guess I should say, an amount that concerned me, so I dabbed it off. The layer is a circular THIN layer on both the cpu and water cooler heatsink. Made sure no thermal paste was close to the edges, since concern of it getting on the MOBO (Being extra cautious...) Anywho, is there anything that might be??? There was no possibility from the first reply.
Well, I wanted to try the stock heatsink/fan, on the CPU to see if things changed. Can't bloody do that considering the plastic crap screws/fastners that intel included with it, are just to big for the holes that asus pre-measured for it... Love it when companies don't look at something and just say "hmmm". Anywho, enough ranting/raving... All I can think of is maybe re-apply thermal paste, and attempt to get a bios update in. Bout in on my end...
Ok well I got the stock heatsink fan on there with modifications to the plastic screws with a pair of plyers... It's on their pretty firm, and it's spinning. The temp is at exactly 88 degrees Celsius again. So maybe MOBO??? Or is this CPU possibly bad???
So this is happening with the Corsair H90?  First of all, do not use the system if it is reaching that temperature.  Secondly, this sounds like the pump is not working properly.  Check that the cable from the pump is attached to a case fan HEADER on your motherboard and that the fan on the radiator is connected to your CPU fan header.

You should also not need to "modify" the stock cooler, if you find yourself having to do this, you are putting it on wrong.The pump is working fine, it worked on the i5 no issues. And yes I had to modify it. Either asus brainiacs can't make proper holes for the coolers that come with the CPU's, when they know only two companies are making CPU's, or intel's stock cooler was made that way that for lol's... I would hate to think ill about either, but one of them screwed up. I even asked a fellow friend about it, and he said, " I hate that crap, as if we don't have standard sizes for MOBO mounts." Which tells me he has had the issue as well. Now, this is an ASUS z97-pro (Which I decided to get instead over the sabertooth, which btw, hello cameron xD.) There are a few switches in the board. All are disabled by default. They are the ez_xmp switch, which I don't think I need to mess with... There is TPU switch for the CPU ratio boost, that is off, so nothing on that...  Now the one I am wondering about, is the EPU switch on the board. It is stated for automatically detecting current PC loadings and intelligently moderate the power coonsumption. This is currently disabled, should I enable it and see if it helps???

p.s. The jumper for CLRTC (which I don't think matters in my case... ) is in the normal correct spot. And the jumper for CPU_OV is also in it's default spot of disabled. So nothing on that either.Oh btw, I forgot to put this, this temp sensor for the motherboard itself states the motherboard temp is idiling at about 27 degrees Celsius. So whatever the heat issue is, it revolves specifically around the CPU, I am assuming, at least...NVM, just tried the EPU switch on/enabled, didn't help. I am just gonna assume either the board or the CPU is in need here. I did everything by the book on this end, no overclocking enabled at all. So if there is anything anyone can think of trying, would be nice to hear.Not sure if this is worth mentioning, but when I had the original motherboard and everything in, the mouse LED's would be off, when the computer was off. Now, the mouse LED's are constantly on, even with the PC off. Not sure if that means anything, but just throwing that out there.Hi

If the standard heat sink pins were to big for the holes then the black pins have already been pushed down. This is to lock the heat sink to the motherboard.
If you modified those mounts you wont be able to return the CPU.
The holes in the motherboard and the pins are a perfect fit on all boards. So there is something wrong with your method of installation if you have to do any modifications.   
Is the CPU clamp under the screw, not sitting on top of it?
Also is the is the heat sink compound thin ,evenly spread over the whole CPU ? 

Either not right will cause the CPU to run hot.

 

We just got a bargain on a Nextbook 8 inch Android at a local store.
After GIVING it a full change an using itfor about an hour it says:
NO COMMAND
and shows a small  icon of the green   Android on his back with is belly open.
Can not find reference in the user manual.  It is a Android VERSION 4.2 and seems to be up to date.
Later, it came back on. No sure why. I called it some bad names, but it is not likley that did any good. Toddy it is acting well. 

A QUICK search shows others have this problem, but not with the same tablet
Mine is a
Nextbook NNX785QC8G
The website does not DIRECTLY address this error.   www.nextbookusa.com
It is still working,  but it might fail again.  I am thinking of TAKING it back to Wall Mart.
What would you do?

Hello,

I purchased a Phenom based computer(assembled) two years ago.

It's nature is that when we switched, it starts(processer fan works and the power indicator lights turns on), then turn's off(processer fan turns off and the power indicator lights turns off) in a few seconds of time and restarts automatically. It runs with no interruption after that.

I see the same thing is from the DAY #1. We never has issues. But is it normal to turn-off and on at beginning?

Processor- Phenom II X4 965
HDD- Segate SATA 1 TB
Mother board - Digilite
RAM is of Dynet's, it is 4 GB.

I never see any computer with that behavior. Can you guys tell me that's due to any problem in the system?I had a cheap barebone gaming system as seen here  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138178   that i upgraded from a Sempron X2 2200 2.00Ghz 65Watt CPU to a Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz 95Watt CPU and had the same problem 4 years ago.

My power supply was weak on initial boot and so it would start to boot and fans would spin at 100% and then after the BIOS splash screen when the Hard Drive was going to load the OS, it would act as if it shut down for a second or two etc with fans shutting off, and then it started back up through the process with fans starting out at 100% SPEED and would boot with no problems to the OS and games would run fine etc.

What I found was that the CPU upgrade pointed out that the additional 30 watt power draw was too much for the power supply at initial boot, but on a somewhat consecutive warm boot, the system would behave because the voltage rails charged the power supplies internal capacitors up to a higher voltage in which now the load from the HDD was no problem.

I ended up swapping out the ( so called 500watt ) GoldenPower cheap chinese power supply with a cheap but 4 of 5 star rated 460watt Cooler Master and the problem went away. Lots of no name power supplies i have found can not really handle what they are rated for, and are really a marketing mislabeled 250 or 300 watt supply.

If you have a spare healthy power supply available that is at least 400 watts. I'd SWAP it out and see if the problem goes away. If you have an ultra powerful VIDEO card you may need to test with a higher wattage power supply of 500 watts +

If the case was purchased with a free power supply in it, I would highly SUGGEST replacing it with a known good quality brand, as for the cheap no name power supplies can not just fail by causing boot problems, but they can also over voltage components and cook your computer.

I'm not sure if this is in the right section, but I've been trying to clone a 80GB internal HDD to a mobile 500GB WD passport and then that to another internal 1TB HDD in another pc with CloneZilla on a usb going exactly by their tutorial and choosing the beginner setting.

The problem is that the other pc won't boot from the 1TB drive after the process is done... Am I doing something wrong here? Or is this supposed to be done some other way?You cannot take one hd, clone it to another, put it in a different computer and expect it to work (unless the to systems are identical). That's not how Windows works. You'll NEED to purchase a copy of Windows for the other system.** Just wanted to mention that while this is illegal if you are trying to USE the same key on 2 systems, there is a legal way to get by with this.

The legal method is when you have a 2nd license of the same exact OS that is to be on 2 computers and you clone the one drive to the other, and then perform a repair installation on the other 2nd system taking the cloned drive which corrects for hardware differences between them in the Windows build files.

 Sometimes people can get a system to boot after clone drive is installed on different hardware, but most of the time its a failed boot of BSOD loop.

Most people clone highly configured systems, so that you can install the cloned drive into a different computer and then perform the repair install and 9 times out of 10 all software works flawless after the repair install and windows activation with the other key used to be legal.

If the 2nd system is not highly configured, I would suggest a clean installation of the OS as for the 2nd system can inherrit orphan registry information from the original system through taking a cloned drive to a different computer and correcting for problems with the repair process vs clean install.Hi

When you say it's not booting could you give some more detail.

Does it start into windows and then crash if so then what DaveLembke said is correct.

If it won't even start to boot then you haven't transferred the boot sector and active status bit for the 1tb drive.

Clonezilla is an amazing tool for this but you need to know a bit about disk cloning to get a good result.

For a more graphical tool to do this I would suggest Minitool Diskmanger free.

What you need to do is backup ti 80GB to the USB drive including the boot sector.
Then restore the backup to the 1TB.
Minitool can be run from a CD.
It also will do a fat to any other file system as it is restoring.
  Quote from: DaveLembke on August 21, 2014, 01:13:05 PM

** Just wanted to mention that while this is illegal if you are trying to use the same key on 2 systems, there is a legal way to get by with this.

Hi

When you say it's not booting could you give some more detail.

Does it start into windows and then crash if so then what DaveLembke said is correct.

You cannot take one hd, clone it to another, put it in a different computer and expect it to work (unless the to systems are identical). That's not how Windows works. You'll need to purchase a copy of Windows for the other system.

** Just wanted to mention that while this is illegal if you are trying to use the same key on 2 systems, there is a legal way to get by with this.

The legal method is when you have a 2nd license of the same exact OS that is to be on 2 computers and you clone the one drive to the other, and then perform a repair installation on the other 2nd system taking the cloned drive which corrects for hardware differences between them in the Windows build files.

 Sometimes people can get a system to boot after clone drive is installed on different hardware, but most of the time its a failed boot of BSOD loop.

Most people clone highly configured systems, so that you can install the cloned drive into a different computer and then perform the repair install and 9 times out of 10 all software works flawless after the repair install and windows activation with the other key used to be legal.

If the 2nd system is not highly configured, I would suggest a clean installation of the OS as for the 2nd system can inherrit orphan registry information from the original system through taking a cloned drive to a different computer and correcting for problems with the repair process vs clean install.

Quote from: Allan

You cannot take one hd, clone it to another, put it in a different computer and expect it to work (unless the two systems are identical). That's not how Windows works. You'll need to purchase a copy of Windows for the other system.

Why? This doesn't make any sense.

Hi FRIENDS, I'm facing problem with kyocera printer,The model is kyocera taskalpha 4551 ci .
The problem is that I cannot delete print jobs.when I'm trying to cancel the job it is showing the message"Cannot delete from Fax Reception".This problem occured when we got one fax .

I TRIED
1) restarting machine.
2)restarting print spooler.
 but no RESULT.Try clearing the jobs with the USB cable dis-connected and re-booot after.No Result friendHi friends got the solution,because of the fax board not working properly everything was stopped,now its running fine.
thanks alot for your help.

Re 12 year old HP 753n desktop, how important is it for RAM sticks to match? It has two slots. One has original 512MB stick and the other has a 3 year old 512MB stick added to increase total RAM to 1GB. Rig seems to work fine (now that it has a new HD) but I wonder if we could improve performance by spending a few bucks on a new Crucial 1GB (512MB x 2) kit? Thanks.Biggest thing with memory is that you have the correct type.... such as ECC or NON-ECC, ( Most home computers use NON-ECC.

Then you have the correct size stick for the system, as for I have seen people accidentally purchase Laptop Memory for Desktops and the other way around.

Next FSB rating such as 266, 333, 400, 533, 667, 800Mhz, and so on and that they all match. * ( Sometimes you can underclock a stick to work with others such as adding a 400Mhz stick in a motherboard only rated for 333Mhz and paired with a 333Mhz stick, but its best to avoid mismatches to avoid problems. )

Next is checking to make sure that their latency is the same which is like CL2.5 or CL3 etc.

Next making sure the sticks do not exceed the maximum memory capacity per memory slot as specified in the motherboard or computer manufacturer support SITE. Such as some systems claim to support 4GB of RAM, but only 2GB per slot maximum, so you CANT stuff a single 4GB stick into the motherboard, you need to instead get 2 x 2GB sticks for 4GB.

Lastly, if you have a system that is functional that can get online, you can run the crucial memory utility that will specify the memory your system should have in it. * Only warning here is that if it says you have 4 memory slots, be sure to check the motherboard to make sure it in fact does have 4 memory slots as for on a Biostar MCP6PB M2+ mATX motherboard that I have, it states that it can handle 4 sticks of memory, but there are only 2 memory slots available, so internally the memory controller may be reporting that it can address 4 slots, BUT only 2 slots are really available.

Here is the link to that Crucial memory Scan Utility: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/systemscanner

*** If you want to mix memory and test to make sure that they are really running ok, you can download memtest86 and burn that to a CD etc and boot the system off of it and run it through about 3 to 5 full tests. If it starts to complain about memory addresses then you have a bad stick in the mix or they are not happy working together.

http://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

As far as performance advantages go... your not going to squeeze much out of this system for noticeable gain. But if your system has 266Mhz memory in it and the motherboard supports 333, then installing 333Mhz in PLACE of the 266 does have a performance IMPACT. Also, your motherboard may or may not have dual-channel support. If it does have dual-channel support then if you install matched size pairs of sticks the data bus between the CPU and Memory takes advantage of dual-channels and so it can process data between CPU and RAM faster with less of a bottleneck. Dual-Channel slots are usually marked by different color plastic indicating the slots that are paired. So if you have 2 black and 2 blue plastic memory slots and have 2 x 1GB sticks and 2 x 512MB sticks, you would stuff the 2 x 1GB sticks into say the blue slots and then the 2 x 512MB sticks into the black memory slots. Your system will then boot with 3GB of RAM that is Dual-Channel. *If all slots are the same color, its more than likely just regular single-channel unless otherwise specified in the motherboard or computer manufacturer support site. ** Dual-Channel requires that the sticks paired in the dual-channel specific slots are the same capacity. Also if you had 3 sticks and a 4 slot motherboard its best not to have say 2 x 1GB sticks paired in the blue slot and then a single 1GB stick in the black slot with 1 slot empty as for this kind of undoes the dual-channel and your really sort of running 3GB single-channel. I am using the 3GB size as a reference here because with many older systems that do not support 64-bit OS, people usually try to go for maximum memory which is 3GB for Windows XP 32-bit and Windows 7 32-bit for 32-bit CPU's.Thanks Dave. I will run the diagnostics. This PC has only two DIMM slots so I assume it does not
have dual channel capability. From what I can find, MB can handle only 266 MHz Ram. I do not think there are any system improvements, but I was wondering if a 12 year old RAM stick coupled with a much newer, unmatched stick may not be as good as two new matched ones. Wishful thinking?

PS I did read (well, thoroughly skimmed) the Intel white paper for the 845G chipset and have to admit I can not decipher it. Quote

I do not think there are any system improvements, but I was wondering if a 12 year old RAM stick coupled with a much newer, unmatched stick may not be as good as two new matched ones. Wishful thinking?

With 266Mhz DDR RAM, latency improvements are probably the only area of performance increase, but the performance increase would only really be noticeable on a benchmark, not at the user performance level.

I say if you have 2 sticks that work ok together, are the amount of memory you need or maximum supported, and pass the memtest86, then just run it the way that it is.

What kind of application is this system going to be used for? Games or just surfing etc. If games, what games?

Here's what crucial.com has for you: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-memory-for/HP---Compaq/pavilion-753n

But, I'm not suggesting new RAM is a good idea.  Run the test advised by DaveLembke.  If it passes, I doubt you would realize any significant gain by replacing your old RAM.

Hi I just installed a Amd Radeon R9 200 series video CARD and its running at 32 degrees c that's about 90 degrees f on idle, is this too high. Running windows 8.1,. also installed another fan but did not help, any ideas.   That is totally safe.  It's really the load temperatures that matter anyway.Thanks for the reply, your the coolest helper on this site. Now when I play COD mw3 it runs at 49c is that OK? Quote from: Mruniverce on August 23, 2014, 11:10:39 AM

Thanks for the reply, your the coolest helper on this site. Now when I play COD mw3 it runs at 49c is that ok?

Greetings CH!

I just acquired an old IBM 390X. It came with some Cds like the windows 98 disk and some DRIVER disks but none of them seem to have drivers for this machine. Any idea how i can get the correct drivers for this old timer?  Start at the MBoard manuf. site,,,and go from there.That's my issue. I couldn't find that model on lenovos website. This is a windows 98 laptop even before Lenovo bought out IBM. Try the IBM archives.

http://www-947.ibm.com/support/entry/portal/supportHi

I found the drivers here
http://www.notebook-driver.com/thinkpad/ibm-thinkpad-390e-windows-drivers-software/

Careful where you click and read everything before downloading as it is a 3 rd party download site.
 Thanks Lisa_Maree! I used the main drivers from here plus the utility and INSTALLED windows 98 SE and windows XP home. I noticed that in home the fans are quiet versus in windows 98 they run at FULL RPM! is there anything i can do to quiet them down in 98?Speedfan can be used sometimes to ALTER fan speeds. Last I knew it still supported Windows 95 and newer. Here is the link to info about it. As seen in the screenshot at the wiki, you can SET fan speeds by percentage so if you want to quiet a system down you can set it to like 70% etc, although be very careful with this as for you could slow a fan down to the point that it no longer cools the CPU/GPU enough and you can cook the system.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SpeedFan

Support for Speedfan to associate with older hardware is hit and miss depending on the system. Sometimes it will allow you to sense and make adjustments and other times it can not correctly initialize the hardware controls or the system is LACKING a specific hardware control feature that otherwise would work with a different or newer system.

Speedfan is a good tool for looking at temps, but it can also be used to control the PWM ( Pulse Width Modulation ) to the fan(s) and so you can slow the fan speed.

Some info about PWM in relation to speedfan and its PWM controls. http://www.almico.com/sfarticle.php?id=1Hi

For fan speed control you need to have ACPI ( Advanced Configuration and Power Interface) enabled in Windows 98. The ACPI drivers were missing from the list I posted, but this  link may give a way to get Win98 to load that driver.

http://www.techadvice.com/w98/A/acpi.htm

Or if you haven't loaded much into Windows 98 you could use the re install option as described here .

http://www.helpwithwindows.com/windows98/tune-37.html
Did you contact IBM support directly? Maybe they can helpIll give that registry fix a try. Just its a tad annoying because i spend most of the time on it on windows 98 side and the fans at full tilt versus when i log into windows XP home (no service packs, but ill be installing up to SP2 on it) the fan is nice and quiet. So quiet at first i thought they where not even running. I had to press by ear up against it to hear that it was. I also noticed i need Direct X 7 to be installed. Any other plug ins or add on s i need for games in windows 98? So i followed as you guys said with the Registry fix and the system said it found new hardware and did a reboot loop without any drivers and it went through all the drivers installing them over again afterwards. After the second reboot The system fired back into windows without any difference in Fan speed. Have you tried SpeedFan yet ? ?

Not SURE if I am in the right forum, might need to be in other.... I have a bad motherboard from an OLD build but I want to save the cpu, (i5 2500k) what's the best way to clean the thermo paste off the cpu? Q-tip with rubbing alcohol?. Wanted to ask you guys before I ATTEMPT removing paste. Thanks!!!! 91% or better isopropyl alcohol (pharmacy will sell, may ask what you want it for) is preferred but rubbing alcohol will do. Both these chemicals and their vapours can be TOXIC (make you ill) and FLAMMABLE (catch FIRE easily like gasoline!) and should be used sparingly in a well ventilated area and you should stop and get into fresh air if you feel sick or nauseous or get a headache, and keep pets and kids well away (like out of the same room). For getting it off, paper cut from coffee filters, cotton buds work but can leave residue ("Q-Tips" are one brand) , clean soft toothbrush can be handy, lint free cloth like supplied for cleaning eyeglasses, LCD screens, etc. Can SCRAPE with razor blade (careful not to scratch surfaces or cut self, old credit card may be better) Canned air to help remove residue. Clean up well afterward.


Thanks Salmon.

I cleaned my computer out a couple weeks ago and in the process i took the heat sink off. I reapplied thermal paste (at LEAST 3 TIMES now) and although with doing so more than once i'm not sure if it's good. I play a game called Smite which when im playing during the day the frame RATE drops to as LOW as 20fps, this is only during the day. Whenever i play later at night and it isn't warm outside and my room is a lot cooler my game runs fine. I have a TEMPERATURE check and I have only seen it at the max of 43C. I have a AMD FX-4100 Quad-Core Processor and 7.75GB of RAM. Is there something that could be doing this, or is it still just the heatsink in which should i reapply thermal paste again?Tell about the GPU, graphics processor, that you have on the video.
Can you measure its temperature?

I attached my GPU details. How do i measure the temperature of it?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Speedfan has a good GPU monitor feature for looking at GPU temps, and plotting it, so that you can start the temp log plotter graph, and then start a game and run that, and then end out of the game or minimize out of the game and look at the last like 10 minutes of temp data for the GPU. You can also log CPU, HDD, and other parts of computer temps that are available if you like with speedfan.

http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.phpPlay at night...Your also not taking into account Network traffic at certain times...

Windows 7 Home Premium
 Intel Core i5-4670K Quad-Core Desktop Processor 3.4 GHZ
WD Blue 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive
Corsair Vengeance Pro Series Red 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHZ
EVGA GeForce GTX760
SeaSonic G Series 550-Watt ATX12V/EPS12V 80
Corsair Liquid CPU cooler

I've had this computer for around a year. I've reapplied thermal paste, cleaned out dust, checked that the temperatures never reached over 70C, checked for malware and viruses, and updated all my drivers.

My computer turns off after 4-8 hours of usage, depending on how much programs I ran that particular time.

Initially, it simply happened when I turned off my computer. When I tried to turn it back on, the power button did not work. Nothing booted. What I did was unplug the PSU from the outlet for about 15 minutes and then plugged it back in. This turned it on.

From what I can remember, this process kept repeating with the time that I have to wait increasing. Recently, my computer has been shutting itself off, often in the middle of programs. I would have to wait around 8 hours or so before the power button works.
Based on  the information you have provided, ANYTHING obvious with the components you use to build your computer.  is that it takes a period of time for this to happen. If it was an overheating problem, it should happen within a few minutes after you turn it on. In some CASES, the graphics processor can overheat and CAUSE the system to shut down. But this is usually a very rare occurrence.
A more likely scenario is the power supply is starting to fail. Still, before you buy a new power supply, you need to check out some other possibilities.
Do you have any other RAM, you can use? It is just possible that ONE RAM STICK, or even both,. But that is even more rare, almost unheard of.
Once in a while a component like a hard drive or a DVD-ROM drive can develop symptoms like that. They draw excessive current and force the power supply to shut down. But that is going to be hard to diagnose because, as you said, it takes several hours for the computer to shut down. The failure of a hard drive or DVD drive could cause the computer to fail right away. Once they warm up.
So it would seem the power supply is the most likely cause.
If you have a motherboard with a built-in you could try removing your video card and use just the internal video and see what happens.
That's the best I can do.This certainly sounds like a power supply issue to me - Your best bet would be to see if you can borrow another one to try.  (If you can only get your hands on a lower wattage unit you could take the video card out and test just with the onboard graphics.)

Hopefully your current PSU is under warranty since it's pretty new.its motherboard problem. first clean proccessor and ram and try to start it. if it cant work, remove your newly added hardware and check to start. if it will be cant work please check your mother board. Quote from: Ganesh on August 25, 2014, 05:17:38 AM

its motherboard problem.

I dont know is this is the right section, but when i try LOADING the computer up it freezes on the WELCOME SCREEN. i can load it up in safe mode but thats it. if U can help it will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
MorganHi

First what version of Windows 7 as some suggestions I have only applies to certain versions.

Something that is common is to use system restore from safe mode. Perhaps you could restore to a date prior to this happening.

If you would like to know how to do this it is explained here .

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-nz/windows7/products/features/system-restore

Hello!  I’ve used two monitors and one computer. But I want to buy laptop, but it only supports one monitor. Can I add more screens,
I want use 3-4 Monitors.  I found an interesting solution  http://international.ibik-soft.com or http://www.miniframe.com/ What is it is better.Multiseat is not what you are looking for, that would be if you wanted multiple people all using the same computer at once.

What you will need is USB to DVI/VGA/HDMI adapters, these will let you connect additional monitors through your USB ports.  Just bear in mind that these adapters are driven by software so aren't good for fast motion like gaming but will work fine for office type work.I want my trading platform for main screen (SCANNERS, portfolio position),  and  also the other monitors. I want to have four keyboard and four mouse. 
 Then you would need a multiseat setup.  But if it is just you using it, why have 4 keyboards and mice?  You are then introducing a lot of overhead and complexity for no reason.  Besides, it's surely easier to use one keyboard and mouse rather than having to swap between them all the time.I want to run four programs. I do not want to spend the time to switch.Time to switch?  You just move the cursor between the screens.

Mutliseat software would do what you want but would be seriously over-complicating stuff.  Besides, having to switch keyboard and mouse is going to be time consuming and not at all ergonomic. 3 screens is optimal. You can see  your Shorts  on one screen,  your Longs   on another,  and surf the internet
 on the third.
 I use  Aster  (http://international.ibik-soft.com).Excuse me. May I ask the OP something.
Why a laptop?  Will  you take the monitors  hen you travel?

Why not just two computers and four monitors?
Just asking.

I want a very silent computer and  sometimes I travel. Quote from: chip2015 on August 27, 2014, 10:22:07 AM

I want a very silent computer and  sometimes I travel.

Hello!  I’ve used two monitors and one computer. But I want to buy laptop, but it only supports one monitor. Can I add more screens,
I want use 3-4 Monitors.  I found an interesting solution  http://international.ibik-soft.com or http://www.miniframe.com/ What is it is better.

I believe a laptop simply will not support your objective.  Your multiple monitor requirement means you need to have different content on each monitor, right?  With a laptop with the standard single external video connector, you can only have two different visual content displays working at the same time.

They can use USB->video adapters, not the best solution but would work fine.  The difficulty is that they want a different keyboard/mouse for each screen for some strange reason.

So, they could have, oh, say, 3 external monitors on a laptop, and have a stock market feed on one monitor, a word processing program open on another monitor, an Excel window open on another monitor, and a web browser open on the 4th (laptop's normal display plus 3 external monitors = 4 monitors), right?  In other words, laptops can send separate video outputs to USB ports.  Is that right?  If so, any special software required to do this?