24217 + Interview Questions in Hardware in Hardware Page 125 InterviewSolution

6201.	Solve : Dell laptop turns off within seconds of running it with the power lead connected?
Answer» Hello People, my computer keeps turning itself off whenever I attach the power adaptor. This occurs within seconds, it only very occasionally does the same when running on the battery only. I do not hear the fan starting up before this happens to suggest an overheating problem. Up to now I have tried the following with no success; -BUYING a new power lead -running the laptop with the battery removed on mains power only Is anyone able to offer any further suggestions or ideas about what might be causing this to happen? Thank you...I'd verify that all fans are freely spinning.... this is a long shot since its not really related to suggestion that plugging in the cord causes it to shutdown, but if a fan doesnt report back that its spinning the system will shut down very quickly in the same symptom. For the fact that it occasionally happens when on battery power only, its possible that on battery power the power management has it running more lightly on lesser power and fans only need to SPIN slower if at all, and when plugged into the WALL the power management is set to 100% for performance and so it ramps the clock to the CPU to the max and expects the fans to spin up to the max if need be and if one of them FALLS short of spinning at 100% it will shut down. How long has this problem been happening?Thank you for your suggestion. It's been happening for the last 4 months or so. The laptop is about 4years old and works great apart from this. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can CHANGE fan speed settings? I've searched through control panel and the power settings but can't find anything about altering fan speeds, even on advanced.Speedfan has a feature that allows you to set fan speeds by % from 0 to 100% speed. This feature works on most models, but not all. It requires that the fans be pwm controlled and that the fan pwm controller able to be initialized by the software. http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php

Discussion

6202.	Solve : HAVE 2 MONITOR PROBLEMS.?
Answer» Hey guys, my name is Lukas, i am from lithuania, OKEY enough about me, i wanna ask what COULD be a problem of my monitors, one monitor flashing green light or sometimes stops flasshing green lights and adds other flashing like screen flashing or etc. Other monitor turns up when press power button about 5secs and then turns off, if i press power button again its turns up again about 5s and then turns off, any sulution?Hi You don't give the monitor models. Normally when that HAPPENS the power supply in the monitor has a problem. Like there is failing output capacitors loading the power supply. Monitor power supplies should only be repaired be trained technicians.http://youtube.com/watch?v=VQdLRaEq3ZE One of monitors.Hi Thanks for the video which Mag monitor model is it. They have made hundreds of different models. From the video it still looks like a power supply problem which, if you are not a trained tech you should not attempt to REPAIR. Hey again, then the windows starts my monitor doesnt off, he was on about 15s BET then type my password and i see my dekstop the monitor turns off..

Discussion

6203.	Solve : Hibernation/Sleep Mode?
Answer» Hello, I have an IBM Think Pad, which is pretty old. It's always plugged in and charged and within the last couple days, it has been going into hibernation/sleep mode, even while i may be actively working on it. All my power settings are switched to never turn the monitor or harddrive off. There is no screensaver either. I have noticed that the screen has been flickering but not very often. Does anyone have any advice? Thank you, FrankI have seen this before when the battery runs LOW and it SHUTS itself down into this mode. Are you sure that the battery is healthy and that when the power supply is connected to the laptop, its getting power from the OUTLET? I helped a client about a month ago with a similar issue and come to find out the problem was intermittent power to the laptop because the clients cord between the power supply and laptop was wrapped around the base of the office chair 1 too MANY times and damaged internally. While I was assisting I saw the power LED go out and started carefully working the cable to find the break. I found the break in the cable at a flex point. The client had to buy a new used power supply for their Core i3 Thinkpad. They were able to get a used one for $20.Do you have another desktop monitor you can try on the laptop. Sounds more like it has screen fault like the back light or invert er is failing. If it keeps an image on the external monitor then it is a problem with the laptop display. The powersupply is easily checked, there is a power light that is green when the laptop is running and charging the battery it goes orange when the there is a power problem. I'll check my power cord tonight but i think it's ok as it just hangs down from my DESK. When you say new power supply, are you talking about a new battery or a new power adapter? I know when i looked at the settings, i noticed that it said something regarding the battery but i can't remember. I have it hooked up to a secondary monitor and that monitor also goes down when the laptop goes into sleep mode. To see if the battery is failing remove it and run on A/C for 24 hrs...if it doesn't drop into sleep mode then the battery is not taking a charge and needs replaced.I'll give that a try Patio. I checked my connections last night and my power cord had no abstructions and was in the outlet securely. Well, it didn't take 24 hours, but only about 20 minutes till it went into sleep mode without the battery. When i bring it back out of sleep mode, the screen continues to flicker a bit. Any suggestions? Is it worth getting fixed if it's a back light or inverter as mentioned previously is failing? OK so we know it's not a hardware issue... That means it's a Win issue...and you need to provide more info to see if we can fix this issue... Sounds like Win isn't retaining your changes...that could be alot of things.What info do you need? Ok, now i have a new issue. My screen to the monitor is black but i can see a little faint image of my desktop if i look very closely. However, my second monitor i have hooked up is working.

Discussion

6204.	Solve : Cheap Tablet Selection?
Answer» I am looking to buy a VERY reasonably priced tablet (probably at WalMart and for under $100) I do not need anything fancy at all! I will not be using it for work or even to do internet stuff. Basically, I just want to download a very few videos, some books, and other reading material apps, which I will sometimes need to highlight when I want to remember a particular point. Perhaps I have already said something stupid. I don't know! I have never had a tablet and have never had one actually demonstrated to me from beginning to end of use. Even where cell phones are concerned, mine is one of those very simple freebie phones provided by the gov't. through Assurance Wireless. You can text and you can dial a number and that's it. So I do not even have any smartphone experience!!! I looked online and saw that all tablets come with internet capabilities. Mine would have to be wi-fi, as I am not with a paid network. No matter since I do not care about using it that way much anyhow. I also saw that tablets have operating systems. My desktop pc has Windows 7 on it, so that's what I'm familiar with. A friend told me that an Ipad would be good, even though it's an Apple, b/c it is easy to learn and use. I saw the prices on Ipads and quickliy saw that they are out of my budget range!! Basically, I want a simple tablet for simple use for a simple person for a decent price! If anyone could offer some suggestions and advice, I would very much appreciate it. Perhaps, out of my ignorance, I have not even asked questions that I should have! Thank you! BreadcrumbI'd go to one of the larger PC retailers and have a look around....the market rapidly changes...it'd be the best way to find something that suits your needs. Then you can price shop for it.This is not the first time I've agreed with Patio. The market is practically flooded with low-cost, tablets that are very attractive and fun. One of the concerns is the quality and workmanship of these devices. Let me explain that remark. My wife went to Walmart and bought an RCA android that had a nice large screen. She bought that for me, because I have a vision problem and need a larger screen. It also had a detachable keyboard, which is also very nice for an older person, but doesn't know how to use an on-screen keyboard. She also bought an 8 inch android for herself, because she wanted something that would fit inside of her purse. Now comes the bad news. The 8 inch android did not last the week. Input not hold a charge, and it would overheat when she put it inside the case. She bought for. So we sent it back to Walmart. The instructions in the site. The package said to contact the manufacturer. However, our local Walmart has a good reputation of taking things back if they fail within a few days. So we did that and got our money back and didn't have to fool around with doing the RMA with the manufacturer. I still have the 10 inch android and I used it from time to time to help me study material that I cannot to carry with me. One. The features I like of both units was the ability to connect the HDMI if you have a large electronics store in your area, then that would be the best place to go. If you only have a Walmart in your town, then you have to go there and see what they have. In my opinion buying an android by mail-order is not a very good option. You have to actually look at it and turn it on to see them. It's what you want. By going in to an actual store. You can look and feels unit and make a decision based on your actual experience and not some advertising, promotion. At this time. Expect to pay about $100 for a nice Android tablet. just watch out for units that have premature battery failures. This was done from dictation. Please excuse what appears to be bad grammar. In some cases the computer doesn't understand me very well. But at least it spells better than I do. And by the way, even with the lower-cost androids, you can use voice commands to do Google searches, which is nice for those occasions. A wonderful with the on-screen keyboard.There are two main things I would say about cheap tablets: Try before you buy - Ideally find the tablet in a store that will let you use it, make sure that it feels fairly fast and that the screen is nice and responsive. Warranty - These cheap tablets can be somewhat unreliable so make sure whatever one you get comes with a warranty. Alternatively you may want to see if you can get a used tablet from the likes of eBay - You probably won't get a warranty but you may be able to get an older mid-high end tablet INSTEAD of a new but low end tablet for the same money.You said you want to "download a very few videos, some books, and other reading material apps, which I will sometimes need to highlight when I want to remember a particular point." First, I hope you're not talking about Hollywood feature-length movies, as a cheap tablet may not be a good choice, and getting the movie into it will be a challenge for your setup. Most people pull similar content onto a tablet from a website using a wi-fi connection to the internet. Since you don't have that, you'll have to go somewhere that does (library, restaurant, friend, etc.) or copy the content using a microUSB CABLE from a PC/MAC (which, it sounds like, you don't have). The first app you could install is Google Chrome, then use that instead of the cheezy browser that comes with the tablet to make the rest of your work easier. If you have access to a PC or MAC, consider installing Dropbox, a file synchronizing tool that would copy a movie/file from the PC to your tablet as long as both are connected to the internet. Figure out how you're going to get your videos and books into your new tablet (I just got an Android tablet for $60, and the built-in browser has a permanently-hijacked homepage) and then make sure it will actually be able to PLAY your particular movies, books and apps. Start one up in the store, connect to their wi-fi, launch the Play Store, click the magnifying glass in the top-right, and see how far you get by trying to install your apps and retrieve your books and movies (every Android device does not run every Android app.) Kindle app/books work on nearly everything, as do .MP4 videos (if you open your Kindle account on a demo tablet, remove it before you leave). Highlighting may be clumsy without a mouse, re-typing lengthy passages gets old, and many reader apps won't let you copy from them to paste elsewhere -- you may have to give up this requirement. Many tablets take a MicroSD memory card, so you might get content into it that way. If you can't find an app to play your specific content, best to find out before you buy.Actually, the videos I would download are about 5-10 minutes long and would be few and far between, most likely. As for wi-fi, I have Comcast cable internet, so it is wi-fi. Like I said, my tablet would be for very simple use. Thanks! bcPS- I also wanted to say many many thanks to everyone for taking their time and the trouble to give me the much needed advice! I AM listening!! You are ALL awesome folks and I truly mean that! bcSorry, I got thrown by, "I am not with a paid network." Since you do have an internet connection, I expect you have a PC/MAC. You can copy files from the PC to your tablet using a cable. You'll need a little trial and error to figure out exactly what folder to drop them into, or it might be very easy. Do a Play Store search for the name of the app you now use to view your stuff, but be aware that the Android version may be a little stripped-down from what you're used to. Or you may need different apps, so search by file type or description. Whether or not all this works depends on how exotic your movie and book file types are. If they're COMMON, this should be easy. I'm still tenuous about the highlighting.I'm sorry that I confused you! When I said I was not on a Network, I meant that I was not on a cell phone network for which I paid. As I said, I am VERY ignorant about all of this! It is just too bad that I can't take you guys with me when I go! But at least I have some basic info now and I also will drive my friends crazy until I find out what I need! Mwah-Ha-Ha! Thanks again everyone! bcYou didn't confuse him...he didnt pay attention.I am looking at an Asus tablet for under 100 and this came up http://tabtec.com/hardware/rumor-asus-release-tablet-priced-less-100/Brands do not mean that much to me...I just know that i can't afford an IPad. I want something that if it messes up, I can return it. That is why I like Wal Mart. You can buy a hassle-free warranty for a very low price! Anyway, at least y'all have given me some solid pointers to take into consideration! I will definitely look at them in person BEFORE ordering one online, so I can get the feel of them and TALK to the techies too! I hope you all have an awesome weekend! bcForgot to mention. The sound level of these is very low. So get a nice pair of headph9ones for private movie viewing. Also, some have HDMI output. Ask the salesperson which cable to use. Windows can recognize thees as external USB devices and allow you to load music and video. The Video is MP4.

6204.

Solve : Cheap Tablet Selection?

Answer»

I am looking to buy a VERY reasonably priced tablet (probably at WalMart and for under $100) I do not need anything fancy at all! I will not be using it for work or even to do internet stuff. Basically, I just want to download a very few videos, some books, and other reading material apps, which I will sometimes need to highlight when I want to remember a particular point.

Perhaps I have already said something stupid. I don't know! I have never had a tablet and have never had one actually demonstrated to me from beginning to end of use. Even where cell phones are concerned, mine is one of those very simple freebie phones provided by the gov't. through Assurance Wireless. You can text and you can dial a number and that's it. So I do not even have any smartphone experience!!!

I looked online and saw that all tablets come with internet capabilities. Mine would have to be wi-fi, as I am not with a paid network. No matter since I do not care about using it that way much anyhow.

I also saw that tablets have operating systems. My desktop pc has Windows 7 on it, so that's what I'm familiar with. A friend told me that an Ipad would be good, even though it's an Apple, b/c it is easy to learn and use. I saw the prices on Ipads and quickliy saw that they are out of my budget range!!

Basically, I want a simple tablet for simple use for a simple person for a decent price! If anyone could offer some suggestions and advice, I would very much appreciate it. Perhaps, out of my ignorance, I have not even asked questions that I should have!

Thank you!

BreadcrumbI'd go to one of the larger PC retailers and have a look around....the market rapidly changes...it'd be the best way to find something that suits your needs.
Then you can price shop for it.This is not the first time I've agreed with Patio.
The market is practically flooded with low-cost, tablets that are very attractive and fun. One of the concerns is the quality and workmanship of these devices. Let me explain that remark.
My wife went to Walmart and bought an RCA android that had a nice large screen. She bought that for me, because I have a vision problem and need a larger screen. It also had a detachable keyboard, which is also very nice for an older person, but doesn't know how to use an on-screen keyboard.
She also bought an 8 inch android for herself, because she wanted something that would fit inside of her purse. Now comes the bad news. The 8 inch android did not last the week. Input not hold a charge, and it would overheat when she put it inside the case. She bought for. So we sent it back to Walmart.
The instructions in the site. The package said to contact the manufacturer. However, our local Walmart has a good reputation of taking things back if they fail within a few days. So we did that and got our money back and didn't have to fool around with doing the RMA with the manufacturer.
I still have the 10 inch android and I used it from time to time to help me study material that I cannot to carry with me.
One. The features I like of both units was the ability to connect the HDMI
if you have a large electronics store in your area, then that would be the best place to go. If you only have a Walmart in your town, then you have to go there and see what they have.
In my opinion buying an android by mail-order is not a very good option. You have to actually look at it and turn it on to see them. It's what you want. By going in to an actual store. You can look and feels unit and make a decision based on your actual experience and not some advertising, promotion.
At this time. Expect to pay about $100 for a nice Android tablet. just watch out for units that have premature battery failures.
This was done from dictation. Please excuse what appears to be bad grammar. In some cases the computer doesn't understand me very well. But at least it spells better than I do. And by the way, even with the lower-cost androids, you can use voice commands to do Google searches, which is nice for those occasions. A wonderful with the on-screen keyboard.There are two main things I would say about cheap tablets:

Try before you buy - Ideally find the tablet in a store that will let you use it, make sure that it feels fairly fast and that the screen is nice and responsive.
Warranty - These cheap tablets can be somewhat unreliable so make sure whatever one you get comes with a warranty.

Alternatively you may want to see if you can get a used tablet from the likes of eBay - You probably won't get a warranty but you may be able to get an older mid-high end tablet INSTEAD of a new but low end tablet for the same money.You said you want to "download a very few videos, some books, and other reading material apps, which I will sometimes need to highlight when I want to remember a particular point."

First, I hope you're not talking about Hollywood feature-length movies, as a cheap tablet may not be a good choice, and getting the movie into it will be a challenge for your setup.

Most people pull similar content onto a tablet from a website using a wi-fi connection to the internet. Since you don't have that, you'll have to go somewhere that does (library, restaurant, friend, etc.) or copy the content using a microUSB CABLE from a PC/MAC (which, it sounds like, you don't have). The first app you could install is Google Chrome, then use that instead of the cheezy browser that comes with the tablet to make the rest of your work easier. If you have access to a PC or MAC, consider installing Dropbox, a file synchronizing tool that would copy a movie/file from the PC to your tablet as long as both are connected to the internet.

Figure out how you're going to get your videos and books into your new tablet (I just got an Android tablet for $60, and the built-in browser has a permanently-hijacked homepage) and then make sure it will actually be able to PLAY your particular movies, books and apps. Start one up in the store, connect to their wi-fi, launch the Play Store, click the magnifying glass in the top-right, and see how far you get by trying to install your apps and retrieve your books and movies (every Android device does not run every Android app.) Kindle app/books work on nearly everything, as do .MP4 videos (if you open your Kindle account on a demo tablet, remove it before you leave). Highlighting may be clumsy without a mouse, re-typing lengthy passages gets old, and many reader apps won't let you copy from them to paste elsewhere -- you may have to give up this requirement.

Many tablets take a MicroSD memory card, so you might get content into it that way. If you can't find an app to play your specific content, best to find out before you buy.Actually, the videos I would download are about 5-10 minutes long and would be few and far between, most likely.
As for wi-fi, I have Comcast cable internet, so it is wi-fi.
Like I said, my tablet would be for very simple use.
Thanks!
bcPS- I also wanted to say many many thanks to everyone for taking their time and the trouble to give me the much needed advice! I AM listening!! You are ALL awesome folks and I truly mean that!
bcSorry, I got thrown by, "I am not with a paid network."

Since you do have an internet connection, I expect you have a PC/MAC. You can copy files from the PC to your tablet using a cable. You'll need a little trial and error to figure out exactly what folder to drop them into, or it might be very easy. Do a Play Store search for the name of the app you now use to view your stuff, but be aware that the Android version may be a little stripped-down from what you're used to. Or you may need different apps, so search by file type or description.

Whether or not all this works depends on how exotic your movie and book file types are. If they're COMMON, this should be easy. I'm still tenuous about the highlighting.I'm sorry that I confused you! When I said I was not on a Network, I meant that I was not on a cell phone network for which I paid. As I said, I am VERY ignorant about all of this!
It is just too bad that I can't take you guys with me when I go! But at least I have some basic info now and I also will drive my friends crazy until I find out what I need! Mwah-Ha-Ha!
Thanks again everyone!
bcYou didn't confuse him...he didnt pay attention.I am looking at an Asus tablet for under 100 and this came up http://tabtec.com/hardware/rumor-asus-release-tablet-priced-less-100/Brands do not mean that much to me...I just know that i can't afford an IPad. I want something that if it messes up, I can return it. That is why I like Wal Mart. You can buy a hassle-free warranty for a very low price!
Anyway, at least y'all have given me some solid pointers to take into consideration! I will definitely look at them in person BEFORE ordering one online, so I can get the feel of them and TALK to the techies too!
I hope you all have an awesome weekend!
bcForgot to mention. The sound level of these is very low. So get a nice pair of headph9ones for private movie viewing.
Also, some have HDMI output. Ask the salesperson which cable to use.

Windows can recognize thees as external USB devices and allow you to load music and video. The Video is MP4.

Discussion

6205.	Solve : Sudden pixelation on screen??
Answer» So this happened just 10 minutes ago. It's never happened before and I was just browsing online when it happened. Suddenly the screen started flashing/pixelating in the upper left hand corner. I TRIED to screenshot it in hopes it was just Firefox, but it didn't show up in the screenshot I also noticed it did it on my desktop too, not just on Firefox. Would this be a graphics card thing? Is it bad news? It happens randomly in bursts, it just flashes on and off really quickly. I can kind of "erase" it by highlighting my desktop under it sometimes. Help! Edit: Oh GOD it went over even further this time Remove all power and remove/re-seat the vid card...any change ? ? Quote from: patio on August 31, 2014, 01:49:36 PM Remove all power and remove/re-seat the vid card...any change ? ? I'll have to check when I get home from work. I don't have QUITE enough time to haul everything out from under my desk at the moment :/ I'll try later though and let you know, thanks Quote from: patio on August 31, 2014, 01:49:36 PM Remove all power and remove/re-seat the vid card...any change ? ? After coming home from work, the problem hasn't happened in the 2 hours I've been online... Should I just leave well enough alone, unless it happens again? Do you think it's OK?

6205.

Solve : Sudden pixelation on screen??

Answer»

So this happened just 10 minutes ago. It's never happened before and I was just browsing online when it happened. Suddenly the screen started flashing/pixelating in the upper left hand corner. I TRIED to screenshot it in hopes it was just Firefox, but it didn't show up in the screenshot I also noticed it did it on my desktop too, not just on Firefox. Would this be a graphics card thing? Is it bad news?

It happens randomly in bursts, it just flashes on and off really quickly.
I can kind of "erase" it by highlighting my desktop under it sometimes.

Help!

Edit: Oh GOD it went over even further this time

Remove all power and remove/re-seat the vid card...any change ? ? Quote from: patio on August 31, 2014, 01:49:36 PM

Remove all power and remove/re-seat the vid card...any change ? ?

I'll have to check when I get home from work. I don't have QUITE enough time to haul everything out from under my desk at the moment :/ I'll try later though and let you know, thanks Quote from: patio on August 31, 2014, 01:49:36 PM

Remove all power and remove/re-seat the vid card...any change ? ?

After coming home from work, the problem hasn't happened in the 2 hours I've been online... Should I just leave well enough alone, unless it happens again? Do you think it's OK?

Discussion

6206.	Solve : desktop led start blinking and computer not run?
Answer» when i give supply to computer moniter's led (SIDE of moniter power button) start blinking and i start the computer ..computer not start windows screen not showing...so i remove all part from motherboard one by one but still led blink... So can any one tell me what is the problem..?Did you mean using the extra female power outlet from the PSU on your desktop to power your monitor?first check that your cpu's ram is connected properly in dim slot . PLEASE remove ram and CLEAN it by erazer ( rubber ) . after that clean dim slot and reconnect ram in dim slot . your cpu will be start . thank you..... I am also facing the same problem although my PC is 8 years old.. its a bit slow too. occasionally when i try to turn on my PC its LED starts bilking then no nothing on the monitor screen.. i never understood whats the reason behind.. i am Using Window XP...

Discussion

6207.	Solve : Can I update my laptop processor??
Answer» I've inherited my son's Compaq Presario CQ57. It has a AMD C-50 1GHz processor and is a 64-bit OPERATING system running Win7. It is also extremely slow. I'm told that the processor, being a single-core, is the problem. My question is: can I upgrade the processor, and barring that, how can I make the laptop perform faster? If I can upgrade, what do y'all recommend I upgrade it with? Thanks in advance. Quote from: tikatu on September 04, 2014, 12:48:28 PM It is also extremely slow. I'm told that the processor, being a single-core, is the problem. My question is: can I upgrade the processor, ... No, You scad extremely slow. There is something else wrong. Your AMD C-50 1GHz is very good in that class. Reference: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+C-50 Either the laptop is full of spyware or maybe you expect too much. That CPU is a weak CPU equal to the performance of an older Pentium 4 or Athlon XP in comparison. What OS are you running, how much RAM, how much free HDD or SSD, and what programs are you trying to run that are slow? This system isnt worth UPGRADING unless your running short on RAM and might be able to add more. Biggest problem with a CPU upgrade if even possible and supported by BIOS is that a better CPU will run hotter and so you then are running risk of the oem heatsink for the C50 not being able to cool a much hotter CPU. When it comes to laptop CPU upgrades they generally are not really worth the trouble and the gain in performance is small and the risk of killing it is high. If needing a faster system you may find that it makes more sense to buy a newer laptop with a 2Ghz or faster CPU.Thanks for your responses. To Geek-9pm: I ran an updated CCleaner and Malwarebytes before coming here; Malwarebytes detected a couple of problems that I QUARANTINED. Then I upgraded Spybot to version 2.0 and ran that. It too discovered some issues. Right now I'm seeing a marginal increase in speed. Please define "scad" for me; my only exposure to the word is an acronym for a southern art school and I can't find it in the onsite dictionary. To Dave: OS is Win7, RAM is 2.0 GB (with 1.6 GB usable). Local disk (C:) has 178 GB free (of 218) and Recovery (D:) has 1.67 free of 13.6 GB. As for the programs, just about anything. I ran Spybot on this laptop and my desktop at the same time; the desktop was done far sooner than the laptop. Downloading updates to Malwarebytes, Spybot, CCleaner ... all took longer. Even booting up Chrome is laggy. My husband tried to play a virtual tabletop game (Euphoria) online against a bot; it took three times as long here as it did on either my desktop OR my much older laptop (which sometimes overheats and needs a cooling mat to keep it running). Since my husband is the only one in the family who doesn't have a computer of his own, this one is supposed to be his. I'd appreciate anything else you COULD suggest.

6207.

Solve : Can I update my laptop processor??

Answer»

I've inherited my son's Compaq Presario CQ57. It has a AMD C-50 1GHz processor and is a 64-bit OPERATING system running Win7.

It is also extremely slow. I'm told that the processor, being a single-core, is the problem.

My question is: can I upgrade the processor, and barring that, how can I make the laptop perform faster? If I can upgrade, what do y'all recommend I upgrade it with?

Thanks in advance. Quote from: tikatu on September 04, 2014, 12:48:28 PM

It is also extremely slow. I'm told that the processor, being a single-core, is the problem.
My question is: can I upgrade the processor, ...

No, You scad extremely slow. There is something else wrong.
Your AMD C-50 1GHz is very good in that class.
Reference: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+C-50

Either the laptop is full of spyware or maybe you expect too much.
That CPU is a weak CPU equal to the performance of an older Pentium 4 or Athlon XP in comparison.

What OS are you running, how much RAM, how much free HDD or SSD, and what programs are you trying to run that are slow?

This system isnt worth UPGRADING unless your running short on RAM and might be able to add more. Biggest problem with a CPU upgrade if even possible and supported by BIOS is that a better CPU will run hotter and so you then are running risk of the oem heatsink for the C50 not being able to cool a much hotter CPU.

When it comes to laptop CPU upgrades they generally are not really worth the trouble and the gain in performance is small and the risk of killing it is high. If needing a faster system you may find that it makes more sense to buy a newer laptop with a 2Ghz or faster CPU.Thanks for your responses.

To Geek-9pm:

I ran an updated CCleaner and Malwarebytes before coming here; Malwarebytes detected a couple of problems that I QUARANTINED. Then I upgraded Spybot to version 2.0 and ran that. It too discovered some issues. Right now I'm seeing a marginal increase in speed. Please define "scad" for me; my only exposure to the word is an acronym for a southern art school and I can't find it in the onsite dictionary.

To Dave:

OS is Win7, RAM is 2.0 GB (with 1.6 GB usable). Local disk (C:) has 178 GB free (of 218) and Recovery (D:) has 1.67 free of 13.6 GB. As for the programs, just about anything. I ran Spybot on this laptop and my desktop at the same time; the desktop was done far sooner than the laptop. Downloading updates to Malwarebytes, Spybot, CCleaner ... all took longer. Even booting up Chrome is laggy. My husband tried to play a virtual tabletop game (Euphoria) online against a bot; it took three times as long here as it did on either my desktop OR my much older laptop (which sometimes overheats and needs a cooling mat to keep it running).

Since my husband is the only one in the family who doesn't have a computer of his own, this one is supposed to be his.

I'd appreciate anything else you COULD suggest.

Discussion

6208.	Solve : Will My PC work, and if it does, how well??
Answer» I am going to be BUILDING my first PC. It is going to be used for heavy gaming. I want to be able to play any game smoothly on max settings. I have listed the parts I have chosen. Unfortunately I cannot buy an parts that are more expensive then the ones I have now due to my budget. But if you can find parts that do the same or better for cheaper, please tell me. My main question is: Will all these parts be able to run together, And if so, Will they be able to do what I want and run any game on max settings. OS - Windows 7 Home Premium Case - CM Storm Scout 2 Advanced - Gaming Mid Tower Computer Case with Carrying Handles, Black (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00BKUYZWS/ezvid...) Motherboard - ASUS MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150 Motherboards MAXIMUS VII HERO (http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-MAXIMUS-VII-HERO Motherboards/dp/B00K2MASE4/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) Graphics Card - EVGA GeForce GTX770 SuperClocked with EVGA ACX Cooler, 2GB GDDR5 256bit, DL DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI, DP, SLI Ready Graphics Cards (02G-P4-2774-KR) (http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-SuperClocked-Graphic...) CPU - Intel Core i7-4790K Processor (8M Cache, up to 4.40 GHz) (BX80646I74790K) (http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-4790K-Processor-Cache-BX...) Power Supply - EVGA SuperNOVA 750B1 750W ATX12V Power Supply 110-B1-0750-VR (http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Bronze-Certified-100-...) Memory - G.Skill Sniper Series F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 8GB (2 x 4GB) Dual Channel Memory Module (http://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Sniper-Series-F3-12800CL9...) CPU Fan - Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) (http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-2...) Storage - Western Digital Caviar Black 2 TB SATA III 7200 RPM 64 MB Cache Bulk/OEM INTERNAL Desktop Hard Drive - WD2002FAEX (http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Internal-D...) Optical Drive - Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black) (http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Serial-ATA-Internal-Optical-...) PCPARTPICKER - http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ItsPigMan/saved/tLzhP6 Sorry it's so long, I just want some advice before I go and blow all my money. Any advice would be very greatly appreciated. Thank you.Looks pretty good, only thing I would change would be the PSU - EVGA have some good PSUs but that one isn't great, 750w is also overkill. Something like this would be fine: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1650snlb9. I would also really consider an SSD for a machine like that.How many watts should my power supply have for this?For that card NVIDIA recommend at least 600w. You could possibly get away with less but to be on the safe side I'd get 650w or so.

Discussion

6209.	Solve : Netgear Wireless Router Overheat?
Answer» Hey. I stated using a Netgear wireless router not LONG ago, but I've been noticing that it overhears often. It's not a new model-it's and older model from 3-4years ago. I can't find the exact picture, so I've attach a picture of a router that's similar to mine. Made of plastic, and has ventilation holes on the bottom. I've placed it on my kitchen table, and ALSO PUT it on a small rack for ventilation. Thank you for any help!. [attachment deleted by admin to conserve SPACE]It may cool better in a vertical position. I had one like this, did the same thing. Take off the cover and blow out any dust. Turn it on (cover off) and see which chip is heating up with your fingertip. Buy a sticky-back heat sink abut the right size and stick it on the hot chip(s). Or, just cut a hole in the cover over the hot chip to let it get more air.

Discussion

6210.	Solve : Having Steam game crashing/stalling issues, but not sure what the cause is?
Answer» Hello this is my first post so I apologize if this thread belongs in another area of the forums, but this seems like the right place. Before anything, I will give some general info about my desktop computer.. I know basic things about computers as I use mine a lot to play games/watch videos, etc. but not enough to troubleshoot effectively so I will give as much info as I can: OS: Windows 8.1, 64 bit (6.3.9600 Build 9600)(?) RAM: 8 GB Processor: Intel Core i7-2600K CPU 3.40 GHz (X64 based), 3401 MHz, 4 Cores, 8 logical processors Graphic Card: AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series Motherboard: ASUSTek (I could not get the build name/model, it said its unavailable in System Information from Admin tools) Monitor: AOC 2367M Network Adapter: Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Memory: I have two hard drives.. one is an SSD, the other is a regular one So on my computer, I play a lot of games on a daily basis and while playing one on Steam (Sonic All-Stars Racing Transformed) one day, and at the time, I was running Windows 7. I was in the middle of a race and the monitor screen flashed and the game crashed. I thought nothing of it, until I launched Left 4 Dead 2. Every 10 seconds, the game would freeze for about 5 seconds with a black & white horizontal bar in the middle of the screen, and then go back to NORMAL.. but its funny, it only happens in the menu screens, but this does not happen during the actual game (this is only the case for Left 4 Dead.. everything else crashes one way or another). Then, the game alt tabs, and in the bottom right corner on the task bar, it says "Display driver has stopped responding and has recovered".. I googled it, and this was apparently a common problem especially for AMD users. Around the same time this had started happening, I noticed that the Internet in our house (not just my computer, but the Xbox, and my mother's laptop) would lose Internet randomly for about 1-3 minutes, and then reconnect. It's very sporadic, and sometimes happens 1-3 times a day in total, or 3-5 times per hour.. I have not looked into this problem just yet So I did the usual suggestions.. first I did a system restore, which did nothing..I updated the drivers, which took a lot of work, because it always said it needed an update after I had updated it almost 10 times through Windows Update AND the AMD website. I scrapped Windows 7 and bought Windows 8 because I had an invalid key and figured why not get validated. I obviously have tried leaving it off/rebooting it. I have been told I might need a new video card, but I don't want to spend the money on it unless I actually need it. I also tried running games in windowed mode which seemed to help the problem, but only a little bit, it would still crash just a little bit later. After all of this, the next day, the freezing in the Left 4 Dead menus stopped.. I figured I had made some progress, so I launched Bastion and was able to play it without any interruptions at all. The game ran completely smooth. But then I started to notice that my browsers seemed to start slowing down and stop responding if I had more than like 2-3 tabs up.. I consider this an issue because I've had 6-7 tabs up while running games in the past with zero issues. I got bored of Bastion, so I played Sonic Racing again, and it crashed after about 20 minutes of play. So, I figured I'd try another completely new game, to know for sure, and I tried Sacred Gold, a very old, easy to run game, especially with a good graphics card and processor (like me). I was able to get to the Character creation, and it'd eventually freeze up and crash, and I'd have to SIGN out of Windows and back in to end the program, because every program stopped responding once this specific game would crash. The next day I tried running Sacred Gold again and it couldn't even get to character creation anymore, it would get past the publisher screens and then to the LOADING screen, with a loading bar, halted at Type Manager (whatever that means for the game) As of now, I can run World of Warcraft, Left 4 Dead 2, and Old school runescape.. everything else crashes in its own random fashion, and I've seem to run out of options. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the games, and reinstalling Steam, to no avail. I first updated the drivers alone, then I tried completely uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling them, which did nothing. I've used CCleaner which also did nothing. I deleted a ton of games/pics/vids/etc. to free up memory on my regular hard drive.. nothing. So tl;dr I could really use some help, and not just the standard suggestions you find on a customer service page, because I've tried everything I know how to do. It'd be greatly appreciated.. thanks in advance, I really don't have the $ for another card EDIT: I also just downloaded Real Temp and I am using it now.. not sure what some of the numbers on the bottom mean, but I will give whatever info I can: 1) Right now I have Steam, Google Chrome (1 tab), and RealTemp running, and it seems like my computer is hovering around 38-46 Celsius 2) Now, I have Steam, Google Chrome (1 tab), RealTemp, and Sonic Racing in the menu screen, running, and my computer is hovering around 54-58 Celsius 3) Now, I have the same programs running plus World of Warcraft , and my computer is hovering around 63-66 Celsius I don't know if the above stats are good or bad, but I figured I would post themYour TEMPERATURES are too high, so your problem may be overheating from dust collected on fans, surfaces and ventilation routes, or a failed fan. Pop off the side cover, take it outside (or you'll blow around a lot of dust indoors) and blow it out with your lungs. Don't breathe the dust, and don't touch anything inside unless you ground yourself first (no static). Plug it in and start it up without the cover so you can inspect all the fans. If you also own a laptop, blow those vents out while it's running. If you have a cat or dog, do this every year. An outside possibility is that you got a bad electrolytic capacitor; see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague and it's aggravated by the heat. On the motherboard and video card, you'll see many devices that look like a little barrel with tops that have slits in them. These tops/cuts should be flat, not bowed up, nor have anything that has leaked from them (glue is OK). Any that are "blown up" have to be replaced (they have overheated and vented). Inspect the mobo and video card components and plugs for burning, discoloration, burnt smell or anything that looks odd. Some people suggest checking the Windows Error Logs (Google it) but that may be a long shot here unless you still have a driver problem. Have you tried running in Safe Mode? (It's called something else in Win8, Google that, too.) You could check the RAM and any other component that's in a socket to make sure it's fully seated as long as you don't break anything (this is a pretty long shot, too, but any of the things I've described can cause your problem). Last possibility, your power supply is not providing a solid 5 volt line with no ripple, or the power supply (or mobo) has a faulty ground SOMEWHERE. If you can check it with a meter, the black wire goes to the chassis (ground) and the red wire goes to any one of the pins in a large plug on the mobo that carries 4.75 to 5.25 VDC, no more, no less. Also check for AC voltage on the same pin, it should be no more than a tiny fraction of a volt. If the 5-volt line is too high or too low or there's too much AC ripple, you'll need a power supply -- it's impractical to repair them. I use SpeedFan to check temperatures because it shows a flame graphic beside too-high temps.Thank you very much for the reply. This is a lot to look into but that's a good thing, that means I'm bound to find a solution. I think the first thing I'll do is open up the tower like you said, I have a feeling it has something to do with dust, as I've cleaned the outside vents with a keyboard duster, but never the inside.. probably clogged. If that isn't the issue, I'll check out some of the other things you said. Again, I really appreciate the help, thank you. Should get a reply from me within the next day or two on the situation if you decide to follow up.It's your connection... Or on they're end.

Discussion

6211.	Solve : Whee to get Good Cheap Electronic Parts.?
Answer» Whee to GET Good Cheap Electronic Parts. A recommendation. The image below is from my all-time favorite surplus vendor. If you want relays, switches, resistors and small electronic parts, that y might have what you want. This stuff is surplus or overstocked items. Prices are near the wholesale price even in small quantities. No, this is not the stuff you want for a real clean reliable project. Bu if cost is a factor you could do worse. The firm y is called 'All Electronics' and in in California. That is my choice. What is yours? Where do you get low-cost electronic parts? Mouser is absolutely first rate. Great selection, great customer service and lightening fast shipping.I use mainly Mouser as well. Sometimes I have to use Digikey, and if its something that I cant wait for it to be shipped and need in immediately I will give Radio Shack a try at it; however Radio Shack upon every consecutive visit is more and more disappointing in both parts selection diminishing in options and availability as well as their prices on everything is just so expensive anymore. With Mouser they generally have good prices for good parts. So if I need parts and need them soon, but not immediately I will buy through them and get them shipped. Lately my business with them has been in buying 6.3volt capacitors to replace failed caps on some motherboards for some friends who didnt want to part with their older systems. Digikey I have used when looking for a hard to get part and its a matter of Mouser stating they are out of stock and Digikey stating that they have 118 in stock and I buy what I need at a premium such as some older CHIPS that are scarce but the repair required that specific chip and no other substitution due to timing ( speed of the chip ). Radio Shack seems like these days its a gamble whether they have what I need or not. Such as I needed some 1/4watt 470 ohm resistors for a project and they didnt have any, so I ended up having to place 2 x 1k ohm resistors parallel to make 500 ohms to get by with that. Plus the cost for the resistors was like $1.49 for 5 resistors and so I was paying for the convenience of being able to have the parts immediately at 60 cents per 500 ohm resistor stack. Fortunately I only needed 2 of these 500ohm solutions to WORK in series with LED's from a 5V source as indicators for a project where the LEDs were used to indicate signal state of Low or High to know when somethig was disabled or ENABLED. The last large purchase I made at Radio Shack was in 2004 when I bought my Compaq Presario S6030NX computer for $549.99 and their computer they had was the cheapest option at the time between local stores for an off the shelf computer that had an AGP port for a video card to be added to turn an off the shelf computer with weak integrated video into a gaming system for $120 extra in the cost of the video card for the GeForce FX-5200 from Staples that I probably could have saved money buying elsewhere, but you usually always pay extra for having parts immediately. Going to check out the place you shared here... quality might not all be there in the prices, but some stuff is worth the gamble. Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 29, 2014, 10:32:52 PM ...That is my choice. What is yours? Where do you get low-cost electronic parts? http://www.mpja.com/ Thanks. Didn't know about MPJA Found their PDF Catalog. https://www.mpja.com/pdf/mpja_color_catalog.pdfI too didnt know about MPJA and I signed up to receive a catalog in the mail. Thanks for sharing eBay. If you want Radio Shack components, search for them on eBay by RS part number. They're often cheaper than RS stores and website and have free shipping from the US. Otherwise, I still buy a lot of items on eBay from Chinese vendors for even less. Just depends on what you're looking for. Also Jameco and Digi-key. There are lots of specialty vendors for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, etc. I often end up at Mouser because their selection is very large, comparison tool is fast and fairly intuitive, prices are fair, spec sheets are usually available, and shipping is cheap and fast. But they list lots of stuff that they don't have in stock right now, so check quantities on-hand. They answer the phone if you need some hand-holding.

6211.

Solve : Whee to get Good Cheap Electronic Parts.?

Answer»

Whee to GET Good Cheap Electronic Parts.
A recommendation.
The image below is from my all-time favorite surplus vendor.

If you want relays, switches, resistors and small electronic parts, that y might have what you want. This stuff is surplus or overstocked items. Prices are near the wholesale price even in small quantities.
No, this is not the stuff you want for a real clean reliable project. Bu if cost is a factor you could do worse.
The firm y is called 'All Electronics' and in in California.

That is my choice. What is yours?

Where do you get low-cost electronic parts?

Mouser is absolutely first rate. Great selection, great customer service and lightening fast shipping.I use mainly Mouser as well. Sometimes I have to use Digikey, and if its something that I cant wait for it to be shipped and need in immediately I will give Radio Shack a try at it; however Radio Shack upon every consecutive visit is more and more disappointing in both parts selection diminishing in options and availability as well as their prices on everything is just so expensive anymore.

With Mouser they generally have good prices for good parts. So if I need parts and need them soon, but not immediately I will buy through them and get them shipped. Lately my business with them has been in buying 6.3volt capacitors to replace failed caps on some motherboards for some friends who didnt want to part with their older systems.

Digikey I have used when looking for a hard to get part and its a matter of Mouser stating they are out of stock and Digikey stating that they have 118 in stock and I buy what I need at a premium such as some older CHIPS that are scarce but the repair required that specific chip and no other substitution due to timing ( speed of the chip ).

Radio Shack seems like these days its a gamble whether they have what I need or not. Such as I needed some 1/4watt 470 ohm resistors for a project and they didnt have any, so I ended up having to place 2 x 1k ohm resistors parallel to make 500 ohms to get by with that. Plus the cost for the resistors was like $1.49 for 5 resistors and so I was paying for the convenience of being able to have the parts immediately at 60 cents per 500 ohm resistor stack. Fortunately I only needed 2 of these 500ohm solutions to WORK in series with LED's from a 5V source as indicators for a project where the LEDs were used to indicate signal state of Low or High to know when somethig was disabled or ENABLED. The last large purchase I made at Radio Shack was in 2004 when I bought my Compaq Presario S6030NX computer for $549.99 and their computer they had was the cheapest option at the time between local stores for an off the shelf computer that had an AGP port for a video card to be added to turn an off the shelf computer with weak integrated video into a gaming system for $120 extra in the cost of the video card for the GeForce FX-5200 from Staples that I probably could have saved money buying elsewhere, but you usually always pay extra for having parts immediately.

Going to check out the place you shared here... quality might not all be there in the prices, but some stuff is worth the gamble. Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 29, 2014, 10:32:52 PM

...That is my choice. What is yours?
Where do you get low-cost electronic parts?

http://www.mpja.com/
Thanks. Didn't know about MPJA
Found their PDF Catalog.
https://www.mpja.com/pdf/mpja_color_catalog.pdfI too didnt know about MPJA and I signed up to receive a catalog in the mail. Thanks for sharing eBay. If you want Radio Shack components, search for them on eBay by RS part number. They're often cheaper than RS stores and website and have free shipping from the US. Otherwise, I still buy a lot of items on eBay from Chinese vendors for even less. Just depends on what you're looking for.

Also Jameco and Digi-key. There are lots of specialty vendors for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, etc.

I often end up at Mouser because their selection is very large, comparison tool is fast and fairly intuitive, prices are fair, spec sheets are usually available, and shipping is cheap and fast. But they list lots of stuff that they don't have in stock right now, so check quantities on-hand. They answer the phone if you need some hand-holding.

Discussion

6212.	Solve : Computer Randomly Powers Off.?
Answer» Hello there! I'm not entirely sure whether this is a hardware or software problem. In fact I am a little bit stumped! What happens is, my laptop will suddenly power off with no warning. No BSOD- it acts just as if someone had suddenly pulled the power. I've had this problem for a couple of weeks. At first it was only happening at a certain point in a certain dungeon in World of Warcraft. In fact, it almost always still happens at that point, but it is now sometimes happening at other times too. It does not seem to be related to the length of TIME the computer has been on, or the intensity of the ACTIVITY (I've tried running programs like HeavyLoad and this caused no issue, and in WoW raids are a bigger more intensive version of dungeons and I have only crashed once in maybe 20 hours of raiding since the issue began, but I am crashing 80% of the time in the aforementioned dungeon, always at the same boss). When this happens: - The laptop has a full battery, and is also plugged in. - I am pretty sure the temperature is within normal limits- because the crashes are sometimes random I am not always looking at the temperature monitors at the RIGHT time, but I have noticed they are reading a comfortable 80 degrees (cpu) and 56 (gpu) before a crash in the dungeon I mentioned. - So far it has happened under the following conditions: Whilst playing WoW in the aforementioned dungeon (several times), Whilst raiding in WoW (once), Whilst opening Minecraft, just after shutting down WoW (once), Immediately after restarting when I pulled the power cable out to see if the battery was dead after the first time it crashed (once) (and when I restarted it again the battery was full). - The fans are usually running audibly, and the laptop is quite warm to touch, but have felt it far hotter during raids etc. So far I have: - Opened it up and cleaned it thoroughly. There is no visible dust on the fans (tbh there wasn't much before I cleaned it). - Updated my graphics drivers. - Reinstalled WoW (initially I thought the problem was isolated to WoW, but now I don't think it is). Any ideas would really be appreciated, as I'm not quite sure what to look at next! Thanks! Oh btw, it's a 3 year old Qosmio X500-165 running Windows 7 (64bit) if it helps! Where are you GETTING the Temp readings from ? ? Realtemp for cpu and a program called GPU Temp for gpu.

Discussion

6213.	Solve : Sabertooth 990fx, able to POST but crashes!?
Answer» Okay so, having some major problems with my Sabertooth 990fx, it started last week when my PC was just completely shutting down even while idling, thought it was PSU problem. Tried with new PSU and my crashes still occur, it's crashes now after about 15 seconds after boot up, but I am able to POST and get into BIOS and change some things but I have to be fast about it. I've done multiple CMOS resets by jumper and battery, it helps a little but still crashes. Yesterday I was playing games all day but I woke up to it shut down and now it just shuts down quite quickly even after a reset. RAM checked out okay and so did CPU and everything else, I haven't tried breadboarding and I don't have a mobo speaker but I do get red LEDs on the mobo before shutting down which don't really help. I already ordered a new mobo but I'd like to understand the problem of the crashes, if it boots up and gets passed POST and I can get into BIOS, what could be the problem? There hasn't been any new hardware CHANGES and the crashes seemed to come from nowhere, I was running my AMD 8350 overclocked at 4.5Ghz with temps no greater than about 50c and never experienced instability at these speeds with my voltage at v1.5. What happened? Specs: Motherboard: Sabertooth 990fx CPU: AMD 8350 RAM: 8GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance GPU: MSI GTX 770 PSU: Corsair Enthusiast 650w SSD/HDD: SAMSUNG SSD, Seagate SSHD, WD Black HDD Case: Antec 900 OK. You already did the things that would have been offered here. What you need to know. Beth the mobo and the PSU are designed to shut down when thee is a sensor that reports a problem. The most common issue is over heating when a fan stops. The other most common is over current from a bad electrolytic capacitor. After those two, almost anything. Where do you live? Are power drops common in your area? Do you run your PC on 120 or 240 volts? Is your PC connected to a wired network? Dial-up? Do you have scanners or printer connected when the failure comes? I don't have power outages here and no other devices are connected, PC is on normal volts whatever it is for USA. No signs of failed capacitor. Would a bad bios cause it to shut down? I'm thinking maybe of buying a new bios chip and replacing it. Idk what else I could try.Please provide make and model of your computer. Or model of motherboard and CPU. Some new MOTHERBOARDS do not have BIOS on a replaceable chip. AS for unpredictable shut downs, here is a scenario. A common failure is when somebody ttys to upgrade the CPU with a fester chip. But the chip set does not really support the faster CPU. But without details, there is no way of knowing that is what happened in your case. It's a Sabertooth 990fx motherboard and AMD 8350, it's "MILITARY grade" motherboard and meant to handle extreme overclocking. Well I will see if it works with new motherboard.Just wondering of the CPU FAN is spinning properly as for if the tach is not reporting movement to the motherboards built in melt down protection circuit, it will shut down to protect itself. If your bios shows fan speed info, I would check as fast as you can to see if it shows the rpms of the CPU fan as for if the CPU FAN is defective and not reporting its speed, the system will shut down exactly as you described. Sometimes this is caused by failing to plug in the CPU FAN into the jack on the motherboard labelled CPU FAN which is a critical system sense connection for system fan health. I have seen where a person plugged the CPU FAN into the CASE FAN 3 pin jack on the motherboard and left the CPU FAN 3 pin not plugged into a fan and it causes this same issue. The CPU FAN jack is critical to a operational computer... some systems allow it disabled, but most do not. Yes I am aware of the CPU FAN connector, I have a liquid cooling radiator, the Corsair H55 with 2 Corsair High Performance Fans in Push/Pull, and the heat distributor is plugged into the primary CPU FAN connection. All fans run everything runs, I boot up fine but shuts downs eventually (in a small time frame). Like I said nothing has changed these past few months, these crashes came out of nowhere, I am out of ideas as to what the problem is. I read on other forums that a few OTHERS with the same board have had the same problem, but no fixes.

Discussion

6214.	Solve : Where to buy motherboards online in Australia?
Answer» I want to purchase a "ASUS MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150" For my new gaming PC. But on amazon, it says it only ships inside of the U.S. So where can I buy this motherboard online that ships to Australia? Or are there better MOTHERBOARDS for cheaper? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Thank you.Might be able to buy it through Newegg... I heard that they are now in UK and Australia, although not sure if they are able to SELL EVERYTHING that they have to these 2 countries. News Article here and link to the board below. http://www.anandtech.com/show/7943/newegg-opens-business-to-the-uk-and-australia http://www.newegg.com/global/au/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=ASUS+MAXIMUS+VII+HERO+ATX+DDR3+2600+LGA+1150&N=-1&isNodeId=1&SpeTabStoreType=270

Discussion

6215.	Solve : Lenovo 430i always reverts Windows updates.?
Answer» My Lenovo 430i laptop purchased new in 2013 does not keep software updates INSTALLED with Windows Update. They cannot be installed AUTOMATICALLY(doing so produces an error that Windows Update is not working) and installing them, MANUALLY works but when I reboot the computer afterwards it reverts the changes saying the update FAILED. Microsoft MR. Fix It did not fix the problem.

Discussion

6216.	Solve : My PC won't read the hard drive then it won't display anything?
Answer» My computer was working perfectly fine. But then it wouldn't read the hard drive. I was PRETTY upset so I LEFT it for a day. I TURNED it back on and now it won't display anything on my moniter. Please help meIs this a very old computer? Is it a laptop? If a laptop, you MIGHT have a BATTERY failure. Not very old. About 5 years. And no, it is a desktop.

Discussion

6217.	Solve : plz help my laptop keeps freezing at the desktop idk what to do help!!!!?
Answer» I was playing PLANETSIDE 2 for like 3 hours after tht I checked if the swtor servers were fixed my computer froze so I J St turned it off next day I jump in my desktop froze as soon as I turned it on the mouse to stop moving everything stopped loading and idk what to do I'm freaking out here idk much BOUT computers plz helpWelcome. Volunteer experts will help you when you give e the details. What is the NAME of the computer? Is this a laptop? How old is it? Do you have the backup disc?

Discussion

6218.	Solve : Will my PC work and be able to play all games smoothly on max settings?
Answer» I'm building my first ever PC. It will be used for heavy gaming. I want it to be ABLE to PLAY all games smoothly on max settings. Will all my parts have no conflictions, And will they be able to do what I want them to. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/fQNLdC Any advice WOULD be greatly appreciated. Thank you.Why are you CREATING another thread for the same build?

Discussion

6219.	Solve : Buying a laptop for gaming!?
Answer» Hello, I am thinking about investing around $600 or below on a gaming laptop. I have tried searching several the major sites -- Amazon, Ebay, Craiglist, and Neweggs. But I am yet undecided. I am mainly looking for around 8GB of ram, for the CPU I think Intel I5 will do, for the graphics I have no idea on what it is yet, for the hard drive size it really doesn't matter much since I don't have that much stuff. If anyone have any advice or care to share links to some good laptops site, that would be of great help. Thank you! $600 is pretty tight for a new gaming laptop so you may end up having to get a used one. As far as laptops go, you cannot upgrade the video card down the line so get the best one you can afford. If you have to, get one with maybe 4gb RAM and a better video card as RAM is easy to upgrade down the line.If you manage to get $99 extra on your budget you'll be able to get a Mid-High end (performance) and Mid end (graphics) laptop at xoticpc (MSI CX61 2PC-499), look for reviews about the site. Hope it helps. Quote If you manage to get $99 extra on your budget you'll be able to get a Mid-High end (performance) and Mid end (graphics) laptop at xoticpc (MSI CX61 2PC-499), look for reviews about the site. Only thing I have to say about this is that MSI has been a gamble with problems. You might get lucky and end up with a good reliable computer, or you might get a lemon of a computer. I prefer ASUS and ( Toshiba and HP Business Class Laptops ) for higher quality than their normal consumer product lines. Quote $600 is pretty tight for a new gaming laptop so you may end up having to get a used one. Used comes with risks, but if your trying to stretch your dollar, you could get a ok gaming laptop used for about 50 to 75% retail cost. I use to buy used desktop gaming systems on the cheap such as a Pentium D 3.0Ghz with Fatal1ty motherboard with SLI and a pair of PCI-E GEFORCE 7800GT's in it with 1.5GB DDR2-667Mhz RAM and a 80GB HDD for only $80.00 with Windows XP on it and this was back in 2007 when that was a sweet system. I ended up running this system for about 2 years and then selling it for $75 to a friend who needed a gaming system. I needed one of the video cards and so I undid the SLI config and had it with a single video card, so for $5 I ended up getting almost 2 years of heavy gaming out of it and a video card to place into my newer BUILD for $5. When it comes to laptops though there is a high risk that you might be buying someone elses problem though. I have seen many used laptops that the GPU's have been COOKED on them and they will boot up and act fine until you run a game on them in which soon you START to see pixelation or colored lines appear from out of nowhere. If buying a used gaming laptop, I'd suggest buying it through a person you know that isnt going to sell you junk or a computer shop that has a name/reputation to maintain in which you being happy matters. Places like ebay and craigs list you have to be really careful with not buying junk. Lastly my biggest issue with buying used laptops was being concerned that the laptops could be stolen property that someone is trying to pass off. Some people might claim they dont care if the property is stolen or not as for they didnt steal it and so no harm done, but buying stolen property FEEDS the problem, as well as you could get sucked into a legal battle with receipt or posession of stolen property. So used systems that I have bought through the years, """especially laptops""" I generally deal with friends and friends of friends who can be trusted not to be selling junk or stolen property. If the OP will just wait a bit. In the next few weeks some new PC game software is coming. The OP may to see what he needs for the new games. That's perfect Geek...

6219.

Solve : Buying a laptop for gaming!?

Answer»

Hello, I am thinking about investing around $600 or below on a gaming laptop. I have tried searching several the major sites -- Amazon, Ebay, Craiglist, and Neweggs. But I am yet undecided. I am mainly looking for around 8GB of ram, for the CPU I think Intel I5 will do, for the graphics I have no idea on what it is yet, for the hard drive size it really doesn't matter much since I don't have that much stuff. If anyone have any advice or care to share links to some good laptops site, that would be of great help.

Thank you!

$600 is pretty tight for a new gaming laptop so you may end up having to get a used one. As far as laptops go, you cannot upgrade the video card down the line so get the best one you can afford. If you have to, get one with maybe 4gb RAM and a better video card as RAM is easy to upgrade down the line.If you manage to get $99 extra on your budget you'll be able to get a Mid-High end (performance) and Mid end (graphics) laptop at xoticpc (MSI CX61 2PC-499), look for reviews about the site.

Hope it helps. Quote

If you manage to get $99 extra on your budget you'll be able to get a Mid-High end (performance) and Mid end (graphics) laptop at xoticpc (MSI CX61 2PC-499), look for reviews about the site.

Only thing I have to say about this is that MSI has been a gamble with problems. You might get lucky and end up with a good reliable computer, or you might get a lemon of a computer. I prefer ASUS and ( Toshiba and HP Business Class Laptops ) for higher quality than their normal consumer product lines.

Quote

$600 is pretty tight for a new gaming laptop so you may end up having to get a used one.

Used comes with risks, but if your trying to stretch your dollar, you could get a ok gaming laptop used for about 50 to 75% retail cost.

I use to buy used desktop gaming systems on the cheap such as a Pentium D 3.0Ghz with Fatal1ty motherboard with SLI and a pair of PCI-E GEFORCE 7800GT's in it with 1.5GB DDR2-667Mhz RAM and a 80GB HDD for only $80.00 with Windows XP on it and this was back in 2007 when that was a sweet system. I ended up running this system for about 2 years and then selling it for $75 to a friend who needed a gaming system. I needed one of the video cards and so I undid the SLI config and had it with a single video card, so for $5 I ended up getting almost 2 years of heavy gaming out of it and a video card to place into my newer BUILD for $5.

When it comes to laptops though there is a high risk that you might be buying someone elses problem though. I have seen many used laptops that the GPU's have been COOKED on them and they will boot up and act fine until you run a game on them in which soon you START to see pixelation or colored lines appear from out of nowhere.

If buying a used gaming laptop, I'd suggest buying it through a person you know that isnt going to sell you junk or a computer shop that has a name/reputation to maintain in which you being happy matters.

Places like ebay and craigs list you have to be really careful with not buying junk.

Lastly my biggest issue with buying used laptops was being concerned that the laptops could be stolen property that someone is trying to pass off. Some people might claim they dont care if the property is stolen or not as for they didnt steal it and so no harm done, but buying stolen property FEEDS the problem, as well as you could get sucked into a legal battle with receipt or posession of stolen property. So used systems that I have bought through the years, """especially laptops""" I generally deal with friends and friends of friends who can be trusted not to be selling junk or stolen property. If the OP will just wait a bit.
In the next few weeks some new PC game software is coming.
The OP may to see what he needs for the new games.

That's perfect Geek...

Discussion

6220.	Solve : Hard Drive says it's FULL, when it clearly is NOT?
Answer» I have a LENOVO Y570 Ideapad with a 750GB Hard Drive. It is stating that I only have 1 GB of free space, when there is only about 60 GB worth of software installed. I am constantly receiving "Low Disk Space" messages, when I should have TONS of free space left. I have done hours upon hours of research trying to figure out what is causing this problem, and cannot seem to find the solution anywhere. Many people who have encountered similar problems have fixed it by disabling Windows Restore and deleting the restore points, etc. This is not the problem for me. I have it entirely disabled and have made sure there are no restore points sitting around. In fact, absolutely NONE of the solutions that have worked for other people have worked for me. I am completely out of ideas. Can somebody with advanced knowledge PLEASE help me? I have no idea what to do anymore and my computer is basically useless in this state. Please, please help me. Btw: I have RUN TreeSize, Spacesniffer AND WinDirStat (all in Administrator mode) and none of them have been able to identify what is taking up the space. It just shows up as an enormous CHUNK of "UNKNOWN" space.No need to double post... Topic Closed.

Discussion

6221.	Solve : XfX 7770 Worth it to RMA ? 4 months left?
Answer» System specs X4 640 ASRock n68 vs3 ucc 4gb ddr3 1600mhz ram XFX 7770 Double dissipation ( bought on 4 January 2013 ) Antec High current Gamer 400W PSU my 7770 from XFX purchased on 4 january 2013 is having some issues. those issues are not that big but i think those can cause a bigger problem after the WARRANTY period the issieus i have are. Black Screen Syndrome Happends rarely while playing World Of Tanks ( other games i dont know since i dont game ALOT ) Blue screen of death Atikmdag.sys while browsing on the internet happends around 3 or 4 times a day once i had green bars all over my screen pics and once i had purple stripes in my screen. and in Game my screen freezes for 1-2 secs. on the moment it froze the sound also froze for 1-2 secs. those problems i think occur on a graphics card that is not functioning properly. i got 4 months more Warranty so here is the question is it worht to RMA it ? Any bad or GOOD Experience with XFX Rma ? How long will it take aprox ? i contacted XFX already and they told me to try a other card. but dont have one to borrow from friends. those stripes are enough to tell its the GPU not being 100% it happend and a GPU should not do that right ? also XFX told me to pay shipping and it can take to 1-2 months. but i heard people having it back and replaced in 1-3 weeks any one experience with that ? Thanks in advance You paid for it, it has a warranty. Why wouldn't you RMA it? Absolutely, RMA it today.i mean those problems are minor. i know i have a RMA and i have rights to RMA it. but those stripes just occured once. blue screens occurs 3 times a day and black screen syndrom also sometimes. this can lead to bigger problems for later. but the problem i am with is XFX says it will take 1-2 months. what if it does and didnt find the problem. and send me my card back. than i lost 1-2 months of my warranty because xfx coulnd't find it. how about shipping costs ? we will send the packages in netherlands in bulk to Hong Kong. Once we get the package, we will test it in Hong Kong. After that, the faulty card or psu will be sent to China. Then, our colleagues in China will prepared replacement and send it back to Hong Kong. Finally, the replacement will be delivered to your address provided directly. Do i have to pay for all those SHIPPINGS or just from my HOUSE to the warehous in Bulk ? 5 hour done nothing found. how the store will find or xfx will find the problem if it passed a benchmark of 5 hours ?

Discussion

6222.	Solve : Motherboard VGA turned off by Graphic Card?
Answer» Got a Windows Eight computer for wife to work on a year or so ago. It came with a AMD processor with a VGA monitor port, as well as a AMD Radeon HD 8470 Graphics card with DVI port. (It was advertised as a gaming machine thus the added card) At that time we connected first to the motherboard VGA to find that it did not work. No big deal as we had the monitor and cable to connect to the DVI and the monitor's HDMI found it to work. At her work they set up a second monitor to extended work space. She like it so much that she would like the same on the home computer. We have the monitor and even the VGA cable, if only the motherboard VGA would work. ACTUALLY it does, but not with the Radeon card installed. Using the thought that Windows might turn it on if it was the only choice. It came to life. Then reinstalled the Radeon and the VGA is now off again. Have tried to have the second detected with no luck. Then thought there might be a setting in the BIOS to find that Win 8 does not use bios but something new called UEFI (nothing to help in there). Nothing in the device driver for the Raedon to suggest that any other CONNECTION would turn off. The computer just cannot find the Monitor on the VGA that is connected to the motherboard while the separate card is installed. Can anyone offer suggestions of what I can try to have the computer detect both monitor connections at the same time. It should work. But I can not tell you if the Radeon HD 8470 is an exception. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-8/how-connect-multiple-monitors Check the documentation for the Radeon HD. It is better to have both monitors come off the Radeon HD. I think it does dual monitors. I have a different PC. I have to use a splitter to separate the output for two monitors. That may be the same for the Radeon HD. Most motherboards that I have ever seen with integrated graphics automatically turn them off when a separate display card is detected at boot time. That means you can't have a dual monitor from the onboard VGA and another monitor from the display card. If we knew the motherboard NAME and model we might be able to give chapter and verse. Thanks to both of you. Yes the card handels two monitors. One one DVI and one on HDMI. It is too bad that the motherboard turns off it vga, as will be on the LOOKOUT for a monitor with hdmi. Borrowed sons monitor for the test but he wants it back. Again thanks. Quote from: KelvinT on September 07, 2014, 12:32:21 PM will be on the lookout for a monitor with hdmi. Would something like this be any use?

6222.

Solve : Motherboard VGA turned off by Graphic Card?

Answer»

Got a Windows Eight computer for wife to work on a year or so ago. It came with a AMD processor with a VGA monitor port, as well as a AMD Radeon HD 8470 Graphics card with DVI port. (It was advertised as a gaming machine thus the added card) At that time we connected first to the motherboard VGA to find that it did not work. No big deal as we had the monitor and cable to connect to the DVI and the monitor's HDMI found it to work.

At her work they set up a second monitor to extended work space. She like it so much that she would like the same on the home computer. We have the monitor and even the VGA cable, if only the motherboard VGA would work. ACTUALLY it does, but not with the Radeon card installed. Using the thought that Windows might turn it on if it was the only choice. It came to life. Then reinstalled the Radeon and the VGA is now off again. Have tried to have the second detected with no luck. Then thought there might be a setting in the BIOS to find that Win 8 does not use bios but something new called UEFI (nothing to help in there). Nothing in the device driver for the Raedon to suggest that any other CONNECTION would turn off. The computer just cannot find the Monitor on the VGA that is connected to the motherboard while the separate card is installed.

Can anyone offer suggestions of what I can try to have the computer detect both monitor connections at the same time.

It should work. But I can not tell you if the Radeon HD 8470 is an exception.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-8/how-connect-multiple-monitors
Check the documentation for the Radeon HD. It is better to have both monitors come off the Radeon HD. I think it does dual monitors.

I have a different PC. I have to use a splitter to separate the output for two monitors. That may be the same for the Radeon HD. Most motherboards that I have ever seen with integrated graphics automatically turn them off when a separate display card is detected at boot time. That means you can't have a dual monitor from the onboard VGA and another monitor from the display card. If we knew the motherboard NAME and model we might be able to give chapter and verse.
Thanks to both of you. Yes the card handels two monitors. One one DVI and one on HDMI. It is too bad that the motherboard turns off it vga, as will be on the LOOKOUT for a monitor with hdmi. Borrowed sons monitor for the test but he wants it back. Again thanks.
Quote from: KelvinT on September 07, 2014, 12:32:21 PM

will be on the lookout for a monitor with hdmi.

Would something like this be any use?

Discussion

6223.	Solve : Wireless PCI adapter for Dell Optiplex 755 (usff)?
Answer» I have a refurbished Dell Optiplex 755 (USFF). I wanted to upgrade it to wireless, so I downloaded a manual which said it was very simple--buy a PCI wireless adapter, install it into a PCI slot,and all would be good. I purchased a TP-Link adapter. However, when I open computer case there is no slot as far as I can see. I am not a computer whiz, so maybe it is there but I cannot see it. This computer is I think the smallest in the 755 series. So, despite the manual instructions, does this mean I cannot convert to wireless?The Dell SFF computers do not have PCI slots. No room. But they make up for it with lots of USB slots Two in from and five in back. A small USB adapte4re qwill work fine. I have used both the Ethernet and a wirelesses adapter on tghe Dell 7556 and the performance is good either way. Images and prices of USB wireless adapters. This is what you want. If you get a big one, they TEND to want to COME out of the USB slot. If that happpens, use a bit of string to TIE it up. Thank you, thank you, thank you...I will get one TOMORROW and install.Thanks again!!

Discussion

6224.	Solve : System only renders 3,22 GB usable out of 6GB of RAM - Windows 7 x64?
Answer» Hey Community. I have a problem. I installed a new PSU not long ago, and since then out of my 3 x 2 GB RAM, Control Panel\System and Security\System tells me this: Installed Memory (RAM): 6,00 GB (3,22 GB usable) Why does it do this? Notes * The reason for having 3 x 2 GB RAM is because I had 4 RAM sticks from the start, but one broke over 1 year ago. It has been working fine with 3 x 2 GB sticks tho for over a year. * My previous PSU broke not long ago. (2-4 weeks) It was probably because it had overheated (due to lots of dust inside the computer) After replacing it with a new one this started. * Again, 3 x 2 GB worked before the new PSU. I don't know if it's PSU related or what it is.. But I need a solution ASAP please. I want to for example start playing Planetside 2 again. But it requires about 2 - 2.5 GB of RAM to run. Buying new RAM's is out of the question. Help!!! Quote Installed Memory (RAM): 6,00 GB (3,22 GB usable) No PSU ever makes a change to RAM. The most logical explanation is something other than just a PSU failure took place. Something else got damaged. Well how do I know this? If something gets damaged, why does it detect 6GB?What OS are you using? Really? You're asking me that? Look at the title...Just want to be sure. Is it up to date? Some users report Win 7 64 reports less RAM under some strange conditions. Like 3.337 GB when there is 4GB. Or 7.63 when there is 16 GB. Here is one that sounds like yours Windows 7: Got 6GB ram but can only use 3.25GB Some 64 bit desktops can not support more than maximum RAM size. If that is you problem, check out a diagnostic tool that probes your system to see what the motherboard can support. The link below will lead to a test program you can try. http://www.crucial.com/ For my current desktop it tells me I can only have 4GB b recuse of the Dell motherboard. So When I run the 64 bit Winn 7 thee is hardly any advantage. OK. I have to update you on what just happened... So since I only had 3,22 GB RAM now, I decided to troubleshoot my motherboard. I had an previous motherboard that I thought broke on me (so I bought a new one) but it was one of the RAM sticks. I plugged in all the parts into this previous motherboard and try starting. To my surprise, it didn't boot up at all. So I looked at the CPU and I noticed one of the pins and been severely bent. I try bending it back, but it had been bent to much that it actually broke off. I got an AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 970 3,5 Ghz. If you go straight diagonally from the where the arrow points on the CPU to the other side, that's the one. Also.. Another weird thing.. Pluggin it back in I happen to find my old RAMstick that broke some while ago. I decided what the censored lets plug it in. AAAND to my surprise it's still working. I guess it was the motherboard that was damaged... So NOW, I got 5,97 GB TOTAL Physical Memory that is usable out of my 8GB Installed. I guess because of the bent pin (now broken pin) (surprisingly my computer booted up with my original MB) the CPU is not sending enough power to the RAM sticks??? I have no idea how the CPU and motherboards work in depth, maybe someone could figure this out and I could do some overclocking settings for the RAM to give it more power to be able to give me a full 8GB. I should probably tho get this CPU pin fixed. Sorry about the bent pin. Redundant pins are needed for speed. A few pins are unique and you have to have the unique pins. The redundant pins allow full speed. You may want reduce the CPU clock a bit. All the articles I read indicate that FALSE RAM misreporting comes for almost always two things: A) The RAM is damaged. (This should show in the POST.) B) The motherboard design does not allow more RAM. Recent designs have limits of either 4, 8 or 16 GB. The item B is talked about in Tom's Hardware and other places. http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1802799/motherboard-ram-limit.html Brut in the thread they start thinking the PSU had some influence. WRONG! There is a limit set by the ASMD chip set and is documented by AMD. If you get your system up to 8 GB you should be happy. Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 12, 2014, 10:46:12 AM Sorry about the bent pin. Redundant pins are needed for speed. A few pins are unique and you have to have the unique pins. The redundant pins allow full speed. You may want reduce the CPU clock a bit. CPU's do not have redundant pins that affect speed. They do sometimes have extra NC or Ground pins that aren't critical to operation. Quote All the articles I read indicate that false RAM misreporting comes for almost always two things: A) The RAM is damaged. (This should show in the POST.) B) The motherboard design does not allow more RAM. Recent designs have limits of either 4, 8 or 16 GB. There is a possible C, given what they've DESCRIBED- Bent Address pin. If the pin used for Address LINE 22 is bent or has no connection, memory beyond 4GB could be inaccessible entirely- as a result all mapped Adapter memory and other hardware apertures would appear at the end of that 4GB, and the rest would be usable to programs once booted. The system would still be able to see the total RAM since it is reported via other means, but it would be inaddressable/usable due to the missing address line. Quote CPU's do not have redundant pins that affect speed. They do sometimes have extra NC or Ground pins that aren't critical to operation. Lack of reference. Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 12, 2014, 01:23:09 PM Lack of reference. I tried to find a AM2+ pinout diagram, but AMD is not really forthcoming about their socket pinouts, apparently. At any rate, the pinouts of other sockets is available, and none of them have pins that are both redundant AND affect the speed of the processor. The CLK pin affects processor clock speed, but if it is missing, the CPU would not run at all; the clock pin oscillating between high and low inputs is what determines clock speed. CLKMULT pins affect clock multipliers, but most AM2+ CPU's would presumably have a locked multiplier. In unsure what a missing CLKMULT pin would do, however the OP has not mentioned anything about their reported CPU speed being different- Clock multipliers and CLK speeds would end up being reported as the running CPU speed. What they have reported is that their RAM size is <4GB and they have a bent CPU pin. an AM2+ Pinout would probably help determine what that pin is, but given the information and their listed symptoms, I don't think it is a leap to conclude that their issue is possibly caused by the bent CPU pin and the A22 pin being bent could neatly explain why physical memory addresses higher than 4GB are inaccessible.It is not likely the user just happened to pull the pin for A22. The redundant pins are the power rails. More likely he got one of them. I never meant to suggest that missing pins would slowdown the CPU. Rather my intent was to explain that modern CPUs have redundant pins due to dings considerations. Ideally the CPU should have a ground plane and a wide voltage bus. At high speeds crosstalk occurs when you have a thin SUPPLY rails. At lower speeds less current is used and crosstalk would be negligible. That is why we do not prototype fast digital stuff with wire wrap . Too hard to cut down high frequency crosstalk due to the 'common mode' effect. Future pin designs may change this. (That is off topic .) Anyway, what I wanted to say is that the CPU can run with out a pin if it is one of the redundant pins. The effect would be to increase the noise level on some signals. Most likely no change in performance that the user would notice. Of course, if one of the unique pins is gone the CPU would would have major trouble. The amount of memory your can put in a motherboard is determined by the chip set. Example: The chip set supports 4GB memory. If the board has only two slots. you are stuck at 8GB.mac on that board. But if the board has 4 slots, you can go 16GB. Some users wrongly think you can put a 8GB chip in the place where you should have a 4 GB. If the chip set does not support it, you can not have it. Aprendum Going into my bookmarks I saw this thread. http://superuser.com/questions/752185/will-8gb-ram-stick-work-if-my-motherboard-has-limit-of-16gb-for-4-slots Quote Will 8GB RAM stick work if my motherboard has limit of 16GB (for 4 slots)? his one is quite tricky and I can't find any decent information source/documentation. I have Gigabyte motherboard from 2008: Gigabyte MA770T-UD3P rev. 1.0. It has 4 RAM slots and total limit of RAM of 16 GB. My question is - what if I buy 2 8 GB sticks. Will they work? Because if there's limit of 16 GB, it gives 4 GB per slot. How does motherboard RAM limits work, is it slot-dependent or more likely this is the top limit of chipset so even 16 GB stick would work? I've been looking for info about AMD 770 chipset itself but I can't find any public documentation anywhere. There's memory support list for my mobo, but it's really outdated. 18 down vote The Gigabyte MA770T-UD3P main board will only accept memory modules with a size of 4GB or less in pairs of 2 for best performance. This is a limitation of the AMD 770 + SB710 Chipset see AMD support Bent or broken/missing pins are known to cause this problem, it's pretty common and I've seen this many times. I doubt a repair to the CPU would be cost effective if it's even possible, I've never heard of one being repaired after a pin has broken off. Quote Bent or broken/missing pins are known to cause this problem, it's pretty common and I've seen this many times. I doubt a repair to the CPU would be cost effective if it's even possible, I've never heard of one being repaired after a pin has broken off. While there is no official repair kit that I am aware of to fix broken CPU pins, I have been able to get a Pentium 75 working again when a pin was missing many years ago when i had a desperation to have a Pentium vs 486 and it was a free broken CPU that someone snapped the leg off of on a corner. I was able to place a very short and small piece of copper wire strand into the socket hole and mate it up with the gold flat of where the broken pin was once....so when the CPU was placed into the socket and locked down it made contact. And it worked. Without this pin the CPU would not boot. The copper strand I got from taking a strand off of a larger gauge copper stranded wire and the strand that came from I think it was a 10 ga stranded copper wire was about a same diameter match to that of the pin diameter around and so it worked. So my first Pentium ever, and my gaming rig back around 1996 was a free Pentium 75 which was perfect until i needed more processing power for Quake II in which i paid for a Pentium 200 Upgrade =)

6224.

Solve : System only renders 3,22 GB usable out of 6GB of RAM - Windows 7 x64?

Answer»

Hey Community.

I have a problem. I installed a new PSU not long ago, and since then out of my 3 x 2 GB RAM, Control Panel\System and Security\System tells me this: Installed Memory (RAM): 6,00 GB (3,22 GB usable)

Why does it do this?
Notes
* The reason for having 3 x 2 GB RAM is because I had 4 RAM sticks from the start, but one broke over 1 year ago. It has been working fine with 3 x 2 GB sticks tho for over a year.
* My previous PSU broke not long ago. (2-4 weeks) It was probably because it had overheated (due to lots of dust inside the computer)
After replacing it with a new one this started.
* Again, 3 x 2 GB worked before the new PSU. I don't know if it's PSU related or what it is.. But I need a solution ASAP please.

I want to for example start playing Planetside 2 again. But it requires about 2 - 2.5 GB of RAM to run.
Buying new RAM's is out of the question.

Help!!!
Quote

Installed Memory (RAM): 6,00 GB (3,22 GB usable)

No PSU ever makes a change to RAM.
The most logical explanation is something other than just a PSU failure took place. Something else got damaged.

Well how do I know this? If something gets damaged, why does it detect 6GB?What OS are you using?
Really? You're asking me that? Look at the title...Just want to be sure. Is it up to date?
Some users report Win 7 64 reports less RAM under some strange conditions.
Like 3.337 GB when there is 4GB.
Or 7.63 when there is 16 GB.
Here is one that sounds like yours
Windows 7: Got 6GB ram but can only use 3.25GB

Some 64 bit desktops can not support more than maximum RAM size. If that is you problem, check out a diagnostic tool that probes your system to see what the motherboard can support.
The link below will lead to a test program you can try.
http://www.crucial.com/

For my current desktop it tells me I can only have 4GB b recuse of the Dell motherboard. So When I run the 64 bit Winn 7 thee is hardly any advantage.

OK. I have to update you on what just happened...

So since I only had 3,22 GB RAM now, I decided to troubleshoot my motherboard.
I had an previous motherboard that I thought broke on me (so I bought a new one) but it was one of the RAM sticks.
I plugged in all the parts into this previous motherboard and try starting.
To my surprise, it didn't boot up at all. So I looked at the CPU and I noticed one of the pins and been severely bent.
I try bending it back, but it had been bent to much that it actually broke off.
I got an AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 970 3,5 Ghz. If you go straight diagonally from the where the arrow points on the CPU to the other side, that's the one.
Also.. Another weird thing.. Pluggin it back in I happen to find my old RAMstick that broke some while ago. I decided what the *censored* lets plug it in. AAAND to my surprise it's still working. I guess it was the motherboard that was damaged...

So NOW, I got 5,97 GB TOTAL Physical Memory that is usable out of my 8GB Installed.
I guess because of the bent pin (now broken pin) (surprisingly my computer booted up with my original MB) the CPU is not sending enough power to the RAM sticks???
I have no idea how the CPU and motherboards work in depth, maybe someone could figure this out and I could do some overclocking settings for the RAM to give it more power to be able to give me a full 8GB.
I should probably tho get this CPU pin fixed. Sorry about the bent pin. Redundant pins are needed for speed. A few pins are unique and you have to have the unique pins. The redundant pins allow full speed. You may want reduce the CPU clock a bit.

All the articles I read indicate that FALSE RAM misreporting comes for almost always two things:
A) The RAM is damaged. (This should show in the POST.)
B) The motherboard design does not allow more RAM. Recent designs have limits of either 4, 8 or 16 GB.

The item B is talked about in Tom's Hardware and other places.
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1802799/motherboard-ram-limit.html
Brut in the thread they start thinking the PSU had some influence. WRONG! There is a limit set by the ASMD chip set and is documented by AMD.

If you get your system up to 8 GB you should be happy.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 12, 2014, 10:46:12 AM

Sorry about the bent pin. Redundant pins are needed for speed. A few pins are unique and you have to have the unique pins. The redundant pins allow full speed. You may want reduce the CPU clock a bit.

CPU's do not have redundant pins that affect speed. They do sometimes have extra NC or Ground pins that aren't critical to operation.

Quote

All the articles I read indicate that false RAM misreporting comes for almost always two things:
A) The RAM is damaged. (This should show in the POST.)
B) The motherboard design does not allow more RAM. Recent designs have limits of either 4, 8 or 16 GB.

There is a possible C, given what they've DESCRIBED- Bent Address pin. If the pin used for Address LINE 22 is bent or has no connection, memory beyond 4GB could be inaccessible entirely- as a result all mapped Adapter memory and other hardware apertures would appear at the end of that 4GB, and the rest would be usable to programs once booted. The system would still be able to see the total RAM since it is reported via other means, but it would be inaddressable/usable due to the missing address line. Quote

CPU's do not have redundant pins that affect speed. They do sometimes have extra NC or Ground pins that aren't critical to operation.

Lack of reference. Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 12, 2014, 01:23:09 PM

Lack of reference.

I tried to find a AM2+ pinout diagram, but AMD is not really forthcoming about their socket pinouts, apparently.

At any rate, the pinouts of other sockets is available, and none of them have pins that are both redundant AND affect the speed of the processor. The CLK pin affects processor clock speed, but if it is missing, the CPU would not run at all; the clock pin oscillating between high and low inputs is what determines clock speed. CLKMULT pins affect clock multipliers, but most AM2+ CPU's would presumably have a locked multiplier. In unsure what a missing CLKMULT pin would do, however the OP has not mentioned anything about their reported CPU speed being different- Clock multipliers and CLK speeds would end up being reported as the running CPU speed. What they have reported is that their RAM size is <4GB and they have a bent CPU pin. an AM2+ Pinout would probably help determine what that pin is, but given the information and their listed symptoms, I don't think it is a leap to conclude that their issue is possibly caused by the bent CPU pin and the A22 pin being bent could neatly explain why physical memory addresses higher than 4GB are inaccessible.It is not likely the user just happened to pull the pin for A22. The redundant pins are the power rails. More likely he got one of them.

I never meant to suggest that missing pins would slowdown the CPU.
Rather my intent was to explain that modern CPUs have redundant pins due to dings considerations. Ideally the CPU should have a ground plane and a wide voltage bus. At high speeds crosstalk occurs when you have a thin SUPPLY rails. At lower speeds less current is used and crosstalk would be negligible.
That is why we do not prototype fast digital stuff with wire wrap . Too hard to cut down high frequency crosstalk due to the 'common mode' effect. Future pin designs may change this. (That is off topic .)

Anyway, what I wanted to say is that the CPU can run with out a pin if it is one of the redundant pins. The effect would be to increase the noise level on some signals. Most likely no change in performance that the user would notice. Of course, if one of the unique pins is gone the CPU would would have major trouble.

The amount of memory your can put in a motherboard is determined by the chip set. Example: The chip set supports 4GB memory. If the board has only two slots. you are stuck at 8GB.mac on that board. But if the board has 4 slots, you can go 16GB.
Some users wrongly think you can put a 8GB chip in the place where you should have a 4 GB. If the chip set does not support it, you can not have it.
Aprendum
Going into my bookmarks I saw this thread.
http://superuser.com/questions/752185/will-8gb-ram-stick-work-if-my-motherboard-has-limit-of-16gb-for-4-slots
Quote

Will 8GB RAM stick work if my motherboard has limit of 16GB (for 4 slots)?
his one is quite tricky and I can't find any decent information source/documentation.
I have Gigabyte motherboard from 2008: Gigabyte MA770T-UD3P rev. 1.0.
It has 4 RAM slots and total limit of RAM of 16 GB.
My question is - what if I buy 2 8 GB sticks. Will they work? Because if there's limit of 16 GB, it gives 4 GB per slot. How does motherboard RAM limits work, is it slot-dependent or more likely this is the top limit of chipset so even 16 GB stick would work?
I've been looking for info about AMD 770 chipset itself but I can't find any public documentation anywhere.
There's memory support list for my mobo, but it's really outdated.

18 down vote
The Gigabyte MA770T-UD3P main board will only accept memory modules with a size of 4GB or less in pairs of 2 for best performance. This is a limitation of the AMD 770 + SB710 Chipset see AMD support

Bent or broken/missing pins are known to cause this problem, it's pretty common and I've seen this many times.
I doubt a repair to the CPU would be cost effective if it's even possible, I've never heard of one being repaired after a pin has broken off. Quote

Bent or broken/missing pins are known to cause this problem, it's pretty common and I've seen this many times.
I doubt a repair to the CPU would be cost effective if it's even possible, I've never heard of one being repaired after a pin has broken off.

While there is no official repair kit that I am aware of to fix broken CPU pins, I have been able to get a Pentium 75 working again when a pin was missing many years ago when i had a desperation to have a Pentium vs 486 and it was a free broken CPU that someone snapped the leg off of on a corner. I was able to place a very short and small piece of copper wire strand into the socket hole and mate it up with the gold flat of where the broken pin was once....so when the CPU was placed into the socket and locked down it made contact. And it worked. Without this pin the CPU would not boot. The copper strand I got from taking a strand off of a larger gauge copper stranded wire and the strand that came from I think it was a 10 ga stranded copper wire was about a same diameter match to that of the pin diameter around and so it worked.

So my first Pentium ever, and my gaming rig back around 1996 was a free Pentium 75 which was perfect until i needed more processing power for Quake II in which i paid for a Pentium 200 Upgrade =)

Discussion

6225.	Solve : Second Monitor Not allowing me to change resolution?
Answer» I am not sure if this is in the correct place. However, I have a Dell OptiPlex 780 and recently purchased a USB 3.0 VGA multi-display video convertor to hook up a second monitor seeing as my computer does not have another DVI or VGA hookup. Well, it works but it is stuck at 800X600 resolution only for the second monitor. I've made sure all the drivers were updated as I read on other forums. It will not allow me to change the resolution to where the first monitor is 1440X900. They are the same monitors (Dell E198WFP). Please help. I MUST have two monitors for work and cannot figure this out.What brand adapter is this ? ?http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LE0FEV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the link to the adapter I purchased (or was directed to purchase). Did you install the software that runs it and try there ? ?Yes. It came with a disc. I installed that. The screen is displaying images, just not at the correct resolution. And in the display settings it will not allow me to change it. It is grayed out. If it's greyed out then it likely doesn't support higher resolutions on the 2nd connection...check the Help file...Specifications: 1. USB 3.0 multi-display super speed. 2. Compatible with USB2.0(Under 800600 Resolution) 3. Allows you to convert the USB3.0 output port to an analog VGA input. 4. Supports full-size high definition resolutions of 720p and 1080p. 5. Resolution up to: UXGA: 1600X1200 / WSXGA+:1680X1050, 1920X1080, 2048X1152. 6. Does not support Audio transfer. 7. Available USB3.0/2.0 hi-speed port. 8. Support Win7&Win8 9. CPU: Intel/AMD single core 1.5GHZ or higher processor. 10. RAM: 512MB memory or higher. 11. Application: Office workstation, wall STREET, editing workstation, graphics workstation, entertainment. Package includes: 1 x USB3.0-VGA Display Adapter 1 x Driver/Manual CD Our products have been well tested, examined and packaged before sending off, but we cannot 100% guarantee the items remain undamaged when delivered to you. Any problem please feel free to contact US first so that we can supply the best service for you. Kind Reminder:If the CD driver is broken during the shipping,please contact us to ask for the link to download. I do not know if this helps? Quote Compatible with USB2.0(Under 800600 Resolution Quote from: Amanda2044 on September 15, 2014, 09:14:53 AM Compatible with USB2.0(Under 800*600 Resolution) This will be the problem then, the adapter needs a USB 3.0 port to go above that resolution which your computer doesn't have, I suggest you return the adapter for a better one. Also check the back of your PC to see if it has a "DisplayPort", ADAPTERS for this to VGA are a lot cheaper and more reliable than the USB ones and do not need any drivers. Displayport is the one on the left in this image: Dell OptiPlex 780 have three PCI half high slots. He could get a new card that supports two monitors. It would appear they chose the budget route...I honestly don't mind choosing the more expensive route if it works. Because I am a bit computer illiterate I chose the adapter. If someone can point me in the right direction for a better way then I would be MORE than happy to pay a little more (so far I've spent $80 on two adapters, the driver didnt' work on the first one). I also do not have a display port on the back of this computer. http://www.sourceonedeals.com/images/eBay/Items/IMG_1994.jpg This is what my computer looks like from the back.You do have a DisplayPort there, it's the bottom right one in that picture. For that you need an adapter like this: See, computer illiterate. Can you tell me if this is the same thing you included a picture of Camerongray? http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B005H3Q56I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410796164&sr=1-2&keywords=vga+displayport http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005RISB3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410796164&sr=1-1&keywords=vga+displayportYep, those are the same thing.

6225.

Solve : Second Monitor Not allowing me to change resolution?

Answer»

I am not sure if this is in the correct place.

However, I have a Dell OptiPlex 780 and recently purchased a USB 3.0 VGA multi-display video convertor to hook up a second monitor seeing as my computer does not have another DVI or VGA hookup. Well, it works but it is stuck at 800X600 resolution only for the second monitor. I've made sure all the drivers were updated as I read on other forums.
It will not allow me to change the resolution to where the first monitor is 1440X900. They are the same monitors (Dell E198WFP). Please help. I MUST have two monitors for work and cannot figure this out.What brand adapter is this ? ?http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LE0FEV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the link to the adapter I purchased (or was directed to purchase). Did you install the software that runs it and try there ? ?Yes. It came with a disc. I installed that. The screen is displaying images, just not at the correct resolution. And in the display settings it will not allow me to change it. It is grayed out. If it's greyed out then it likely doesn't support higher resolutions on the 2nd connection...check the Help file...Specifications: 1. USB 3.0 multi-display super speed. 2. Compatible with USB2.0(Under 800*600 Resolution) 3. Allows you to convert the USB3.0 output port to an analog VGA input. 4. Supports full-size high definition resolutions of 720p and 1080p. 5. Resolution up to: UXGA: 1600X1200 / WSXGA+:1680X1050, 1920X1080, 2048X1152. 6. Does not support Audio transfer. 7. Available USB3.0/2.0 hi-speed port. 8. Support Win7&Win8 9. CPU: Intel/AMD single core 1.5GHZ or higher processor. 10. RAM: 512MB memory or higher. 11. Application: Office workstation, wall STREET, editing workstation, graphics workstation, entertainment. Package includes: 1 x USB3.0-VGA Display Adapter 1 x Driver/Manual CD Our products have been well tested, examined and packaged before sending off, but we cannot 100% guarantee the items remain undamaged when delivered to you. Any problem please feel free to contact US first so that we can supply the best service for you. Kind Reminder:If the CD driver is broken during the shipping,please contact us to ask for the link to download.

I do not know if this helps? Quote

Compatible with USB2.0(Under 800*600 Resolution

Quote from: Amanda2044 on September 15, 2014, 09:14:53 AM

Compatible with USB2.0(Under 800*600 Resolution)

This will be the problem then, the adapter needs a USB 3.0 port to go above that resolution which your computer doesn't have, I suggest you return the adapter for a better one.

Also check the back of your PC to see if it has a "DisplayPort", ADAPTERS for this to VGA are a lot cheaper and more reliable than the USB ones and do not need any drivers.

Displayport is the one on the left in this image:
Dell OptiPlex 780 have three PCI half high slots. He could get a new card that supports two monitors.
It would appear they chose the budget route...I honestly don't mind choosing the more expensive route if it works. Because I am a bit computer illiterate I chose the adapter. If someone can point me in the right direction for a better way then I would be MORE than happy to pay a little more (so far I've spent $80 on two adapters, the driver didnt' work on the first one).

I also do not have a display port on the back of this computer.

http://www.sourceonedeals.com/images/eBay/Items/IMG_1994.jpg
This is what my computer looks like from the back.You do have a DisplayPort there, it's the bottom right one in that picture. For that you need an adapter like this:
See, computer illiterate.
Can you tell me if this is the same thing you included a picture of Camerongray?
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B005H3Q56I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410796164&sr=1-2&keywords=vga+displayport
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B005RISB3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410796164&sr=1-1&keywords=vga+displayportYep, those are the same thing.

Discussion

6226.	Solve : Gaming Computer - Components?
Answer» I plan on building a budget gaming PC. I don't have much experience in actually building the PC, but I want to ask if my "Build List" will work and if it will run Computer-Intensive games well (Such as ARMA 3, Battlefield 4, etc.). The list of components that I have chosen to include in this "Build List" is in this paste BIN: http://pastebin.com/nyAynHqb Not bad but I can think of a few changes: Get a better brand of video card, MSI isn't that good If you aren't overclocking there is no real point in the liquid cooler The cooler will have thermal paste pre-applied, there's no real need to buy different stuff Are you sure you need Blu-Ray? This money could be better SPENT elsewhere I would consider a better power supply such as one from XFX as these tend to be better quality than the Corsair CX If you OMITTED the liquid cooler and/or the Blu-Ray drive (At LEAST for now, you can always get them later) you could spend the money to get an Intel Core i5 and SUITABLE motherboard which would be a better choice for gaming when compared to the AMD FX.Thank you so much for your helpful tips. Appreciate your time given. But, if you would not care to answer, what would you recommend for a Video Card? Just get the best you can afford really, the 270x is a good card for that sort of system. Just bear in mind that at the moment AMD's Linux driver support is pretty bad so if you plan on running Linux at all you may want to look at NVIDIA.

6226.

Solve : Gaming Computer - Components?

Answer»

I plan on building a budget gaming PC. I don't have much experience in actually building the PC, but I want to ask if my "Build List" will work and if it will run Computer-Intensive games well (Such as ARMA 3, Battlefield 4, etc.). The list of components that I have chosen to include in this "Build List" is in this paste BIN:
http://pastebin.com/nyAynHqb
Not bad but I can think of a few changes:

Get a better brand of video card, MSI isn't that good
If you aren't overclocking there is no real point in the liquid cooler
The cooler will have thermal paste pre-applied, there's no real need to buy different stuff
Are you sure you need Blu-Ray? This money could be better SPENT elsewhere
I would consider a better power supply such as one from XFX as these tend to be better quality than the Corsair CX

If you OMITTED the liquid cooler and/or the Blu-Ray drive (At LEAST for now, you can always get them later) you could spend the money to get an Intel Core i5 and SUITABLE motherboard which would be a better choice for gaming when compared to the AMD FX.Thank you so much for your helpful tips. Appreciate your time given. But, if you would not care to answer, what would you recommend for a Video Card? Just get the best you can afford really, the 270x is a good card for that sort of system. Just bear in mind that at the moment AMD's Linux driver support is pretty bad so if you plan on running Linux at all you may want to look at NVIDIA.

Discussion

6227.	Solve : Gaming Computer - Intel vs. AMD??
Answer» Although Intel is said to be slightly better in terms of performance, what about in cost? I am building a new gaming PC and I want to ask, what is the difference? Is there much of a difference? I am on a really tight budget with this new Gaming Computer, but I have recently found that if I were to replace my AMD processor and AM3+ MOTHERBOARD, the total cost of my "Build" keeps getting higher. Please help. Is the extra money SPENT on Intel worth it? Or is the cheap AMD style builds the way to go? AMD will cost you less. But Intel sells more Finding an objective review is not easy. This one comes close. http://www.toshiba.com/us/processor-guide The reader should understand that for some applications neither would be suitable. The great majority of mobile devices are made with ARM processors, which are very different from Intel and AMD. Now as for gaming with Windows based gaming, AMD is a very effective way to go. If cost is a factor, you go with AMD. Whats your budget...and whats your build ? ?I recently posted a question about what is now my old build asking whether or not my build would be suitable for running computer-intensive games (such as ARMA 3, Battlefield 4, etc.). I had a reply recommending to include an Intel core i5 processor and a different motherboard in my build but I wasn't sure that I wanted to include in it. So, I made up my mind to gather a whole new set of components to include in my PC Build. Here it is: http://pastebin.com/JzkNSj4Z Notice that I have not included a motherboard, CPU, or GPU because I wasn't sure of what to get in terms of those components. My budget is right around the $800-$900 price range. Also, if you wouldn't mind, please feel free to suggest any product that FALLS under these 3 categories (motherboard, GPU, CPU), and also, Thank you SOOO much for your time to give these helpful tips. In general Intel Core i5s and above are your best option for gaming so if you can afford them, go for that. With AMD your best bet would be something like the FX-6300, although this performs worse than the i5, it is a lot cheaper. For gaming the most important component is the video card so although I would strongly recommend going for some sort of i5, do not do this if it means that you can only afford a low end video card. With AMD you need to take care with the motherboards, a lot of the cheaper ones (such as the one in your other thread) use very old chipsets that don't support even the most basic stuff you would expect in a modern PC such as native USB 3.0 and SATA III. Therefore if you do go down the AMD route you need to make sure you get a more expensive board that has at least a 970 chipset. Now looking back at your previous build - Yes moving it to AMD would be more expensive however that PC does have parts that you don't really need such as a liquid cooler and blu-ray drive. Personally I would leave these out at least for now and use the money you save to get the Intel SYSTEM. It's easy to add better coolers and optical drives down the line when you have more money.

Discussion

6228.	Solve : Why does Big coloured pixels keep appearing??
Answer» When I print screen and paste it, it looks normal, so I have to take a picture of the display with my phone (sorry for the smudges) This has been happening a lot lately especially when videos and games open and it would often lead to crashes, any idea why? I recently had to uninstall GPU driver and reinstall, then this started happening so I did it again but it did not stop. What you are describing often occurs when a graphics card starts to fail, the incorrect drivers are installed or in the case of integrated graphics FAULTY RAM memory. If you leave some more information about your computer system then I'm sure the cause could be narrowed down. Make & model - [If self built] - Motherboard, Graphics card (if present) & RAM OS (e.g. Windows 8 64-Bit)Sounds like the video card is crashing the system with a GPF. This can cause a system CRASH and a reboot. However because modern video cards have a memory share between system memory and video card VRAM, I'd perform a memtest86 memory test on it just to make sure that its not caused by a memory stick acting up. I am 99% sure its the video card dying, but there is that slim chance that its a bad stick of system memory that shared with the video card is causing it to act up. Memtest86 is a free utility that can be burned to a CD or DVD to be bootable on the system, or if you know how to make a bootable pen DRIVE / thumb drive, then you can go that route with using that. Also as said prior... what is the system make/model or specs if custom build etc. Also what video card make/model etc. You sure it's the correct driver ? ?....More info...Sorry what should I do first? The first 3.5 years it has never done this before in till I had to reinstall drivers. I self-built this computer, yes it has been crashing my computer a lot lately. -=-=-=-=-=-=- System Information -=-=-=-=-=-=- SYSTEM_OS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.140303-2144) SYSTEM_CPU Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU X 980 3.33GHz (12 CPUs), ~3.3GHz SYSTEM_CORE_NUM SYSTEM_CORE_LOGIC 12 SYSTEM_CORE_PHYSICS 6 SYSTEM_BIOS Award Modular BIOS v6.00PG SYSTEM_LANGUAGE English (Regional Setting: English) SYSTEM_MEMORY 12286.492MB SYSTEM_VIRTUAL_MEMORY 2047.875MB SYSTEM_PAGE_FILE 24571.164MB SYSTEM_STORAGE C:\ SYSTEM_HARDDISK_DRIVE SYSTEM_TOTALDISC_SPACE 111.788GB SYSTEM_FREEDISC_SPACE 22.593GB SYSTEM_STORAGE E:\ SYSTEM_HARDDISK_DRIVE SYSTEM_TOTALDISC_SPACE 1862.912GB SYSTEM_FREEDISC_SPACE 128.066GB SYSTEM_DIRECTX_VERSION DirectX 11 SYSTEM_GRAPHICS AMD Radeon HD 5900 Series SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_DEVICE \\.\DISPLAY1 SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_CHIP AMD Radeon Graphics Processor (0x689C) SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_MAKER Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_VRAM 2012.578 MB SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_SHARED_VRAM 2083.359 MB SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_DAC Internal DAC(400MHz) SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_DISPLAY_MODE 2048 x 1152 (32 bit) (60Hz) SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_DRIVER aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx32,aticfx32,aticfx32,atiumd64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atiumdag,atidxx32,atidxx32,atiumdva,atiumd6a.cap,atitmm64.dll SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_DRIVER_VERSION 8.17.0010.1280 SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_DRIVER_DATE 4/17/14 10:42:54 PM SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_DRIVER_LANGUAGE English 3.0 SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_PIXEL_SHADER 3.0 SYSTEM_GRAPHICS_VERTEX_TEXTURE SYSTEM_SUPPORT SYSTEM_SOUND Speakers (ASUS Xonar Essence STX Audio Device) SYSTEM_SOUND_DEVICE_ID {67367A88-3A9E-4A1D-A378-A27315907FA1} SYSTEM_SOUND_DEVICE_NAME cmudaxp.sys SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_VERSION 5.12.0001.0008 SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_LANGUAGE English SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_DATE 2/03/10 02:15:38 PM SYSTEM_SOUND S/PDIF Pass-through Device (ASUS Xonar Essence STX Audio Device) SYSTEM_SOUND_DEVICE_ID {4B3682A6-7F6F-4250-893B-D0FB95AAD211} SYSTEM_SOUND_DEVICE_NAME cmudaxp.sys SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_VERSION 5.12.0001.0008 SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_LANGUAGE English SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_DATE 2/03/10 02:15:38 PM SYSTEM_SOUND Realtek Digital Output (Realtek High Definition Audio) SYSTEM_SOUND_DEVICE_ID {8B4D2C8A-E4A4-4D5B-BD37-6DEF731D0268} SYSTEM_SOUND_DEVICE_NAME RTKVHD64.sys SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_VERSION 6.00.0001.6194 SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_LANGUAGE English SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_DATE 9/03/10 04:18:12 PM SYSTEM_SOUND Realtek Digital Output(Optical) (Realtek High Definition Audio) SYSTEM_SOUND_DEVICE_ID {98C17282-C68F-42D3-BE00-6442C54DA318} SYSTEM_SOUND_DEVICE_NAME RTKVHD64.sys SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_VERSION 6.00.0001.6194 SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_LANGUAGE English SYSTEM_SOUND_DRIVER_DATE 9/03/10 04:18:12 PM SYSTEM_INPUT {6F1D2B60-D5A0-11CF-BFC7444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME Mouse SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 3 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 8 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {6F1D2B61-D5A0-11CF-BFC7444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME Keyboard SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 128 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {DA010040-AAB7-11DF-8001444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME Microsoft Hardware USB Mouse SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 1 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 1024 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {DA01EAA0-AAB7-11DF-8002444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME Micr SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {DA0238C0-AAB7-11DF-8003444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME Micr SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 1280 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {DA0286E0-AAB7-11DF-8004444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME Micr SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {DA02D500-AAB7-11DF-8005444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME Micr SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 256 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {DA02FC10-AAB7-11DF-8006444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME G19 Gaming Keyboard SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 7 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {DA039850-AAB7-11DF-8007444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME G19 Gaming Keyboard SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0 SYSTEM_INPUT {DA03BF60-AAB7-11DF-8008444553540000} SYSTEM_INPUT_NAME G19 Gaming Keyboard (Macro interface) SYSTEM_INPUT_REMARKS SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_AXIS 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_BUTTON 0 SYSTEM_GAMEPAD_FOV 0Assuming for the moment that you have the correct drivers (as all you have to do is go to AMD's website and that it's almost idiot proof). What temperatures are you getting on the GPU under load? Have you cleared dust build up out of the graphics card recently? I have a HD 5770, which caused endless PROBLEMS (very similar to yours) from day one. Since I applied new thermal grease to the processor I havn't had a days trouble from it. Not that I'm suggesting that you do this just yet. It could just be dust...If it's 3 1/2 years old...it could be the card failing... Just sayin...I dusted it recently, is there anything else I can check/do to fix this problem? reinstall drivers again =\ ?If you still have the CD from the vid card revert back to the original drivers....see if that helps.

Discussion

6229.

Solve : issue with internet connection?

Answer»

I bought a Dell Inspiron i17RN-3530DBK second-hand recently. It seems like a good computer except for having issue connecting to the internet. It has Windows 7 home premium, 8gb RAM, 750GB hard drive and Intel Core i7 260Qm processor. I reformatted the C drive and re-installed the OS as soon as I got it (to be sure it was free of spyware, viruses, etc).

When it connects to the internet it will sometimes seems to work fine for a few minutes but then the connection abruptly will cease responding and pages will just "hang" indefinitely and not load. I tried downloading and installing another driver for the wi-fi card but that made no difference in this issue. I found info on Google with many complaints about this model of wi-fi card (Centrino wireless N-1030 but there is also Centrino WiMax 6150 listed under Network Adapters in Device Manager) and people suggested switching off the blue-tooth capability. I did that but it did not improve function. Every other computer in the house connects easily without the slightest issue and I have never had any connection issue in the past whatsoever. I assumed this issue HAD to be the wi-fi card. The former owner of the computer maintains he had no connection issues at all while he owned it but I'm not sure I believe that. He suggested I connect the computer directly to the internet (no wi-fi) so I plugged the connection into the back and found it at first the pages loaded okay but then they were HANGING up again and then after some minutes the pages were again loading quickly. I'm not sure what to make of this. Does anyone else have any ideas or suggestions about this? I can't keep the computer on direct connection because the others in the house use wi-fi and so the internet will have to be plugged back into the router so they can connect again.

Thanks The router should slow both direct and Wi-Fi at the same time.
This is a used computer. May I suggest you replace the Wi-Fi adapter. They are cheap. a plain old 54Nbps USB thing will do a good job. Disable or remove the one in the computer.

The computer has only 3 USB ports and I do need the use of all 3 for other items to be plugged in. I found the internet connection seems to work okay only if the computer is like 4 FEET from the router. However, that would make using wi-fi rather redundant. I always use my laptop computer with wi-fi connection so I can be in another room where the router is not located.

Would it be advisable to replace the internal card? I've never ever had to do that before on a computer. Would it be difficult to find one that is compatible with the computer's other hardware? How would I know which one to buy for my model of computer?While connected by wifi, let's try running some program scanning.

Download MiniToolBox and open/run the program.
When open, checkmark or select all options then click Go.
A notepad will open then copy-paste the report on your next reply.

Download SecurityCheck.exe from Here

. Run SecurityCheck and follow the instruction from inside the code box.
. When the scan is finished, a notepad will automatically open as check.txt
Please copy and paste the contents here on your next reply.

Download Speccy and then install the program. To post and publish a snapshot of your PC.
. In the Menu bar, click File -> Publish Snapshot
. Click Yes > then Copy to Clipboard
. On your next reply, right-click on a empty space and click Paste on reply box then click Post.

MiniToolBox by Farbar Version: 21-07-2014
Ran by Smith (administrator) on 12-09-2014 at 13:00:15
Running from "C:\Users\Smith\Desktop"
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Service Pack 1 (X64)
Boot Mode: Normal
***************************************************************************

========================= Flush DNS: ===================================

Windows IP Configuration

Successfully flushed the DNS Resolver Cache.

========================= IE Proxy Settings: ==============================

Proxy is not enabled.
No Proxy Server is set.

"Reset IE Proxy Settings": IE Proxy Settings were reset.

========================= FF Proxy Settings: ==============================

"Reset FF Proxy Settings": Firefox Proxy settings were reset.

========================= Hosts content: =================================

========================= IP Configuration: ================================

Intel(R) Centrino(R) Wireless-N 1030 = Wireless Network Connection (Connected)
Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller = Local Area Connection (Media disconnected)
Bluetooth Device (Personal Area Network) = Bluetooth Network Connection (Media disconnected)
Intel(R) Centrino(R) WiMAX 6150 = Local Area Connection 2 (Media disconnected)
Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter = Wireless Network Connection 2 (Media disconnected)
Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter = Wireless Network Connection 3 (Media disconnected)

# ----------------------------------
# IPv4 Configuration
# ----------------------------------
pushd interface ipv4

reset
set global icmpredirects=enabled

popd
# End of IPv4 configuration

Windows IP Configuration

Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : Smith_1
Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . :
Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
DNS Suffix Search List. . . . . . : hsd1.nj.comcast.net.

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection 2:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Intel(R) Centrino(R) WiMAX 6150
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 64-D4-DA-63-D9-3E
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection 3:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter #2
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : AC-72-89-FA-5D-CB
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection 2:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : AC-72-89-FA-5D-CB
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Ethernet adapter Bluetooth Network Connection:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Bluetooth Device (Personal Area Network)
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : AC-72-89-FA-5D-CE
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.nj.comcast.net.
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 84-8F-69-B5-A4-D2
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.nj.comcast.net.
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Intel(R) Centrino(R) Wireless-N 1030
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : AC-72-89-FA-5D-CA
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2601:c:d80:73f:d085:cf8b:2013:b52(Preferred)
Temporary IPv6 Address. . . . . . : 2601:c:d80:73f:401:b902:9c34:903c(Preferred)
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::d085:cf8b:2013:b52%11(Preferred)
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 10.0.0.6(Preferred)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Wednesday, September 10, 2014 1:20:11 PM
Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Friday, September 19, 2014 12:55:51 PM
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : fe80::21d:d3ff:fe1c:6c41%11
10.0.0.1
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 10.0.0.1
DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 195850889
DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-16-4A-54-A1-84-8F-69-B5-A4-D2
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:558:feed::1
2001:558:feed::2
75.75.75.75
75.75.76.76
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Tunnel adapter isatap.{7198E6C1-7092-4AA5-B71B-EB3354BF1D75}:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 16:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft 6to4 Adapter
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter isatap.hsd1.nj.comcast.net.:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.nj.comcast.net.
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #2
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter isatap.{BDDDEBE9-D7AC-4B5B-823A-D7CE5438AAB5}:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #4
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter isatap.{ADBD37C2-AC41-4D45-943F-B03AF85A2FC9}:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #5
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:0:9d38:6abd:818:2a63:bbda:f930(Preferred)
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::818:2a63:bbda:f930%19(Preferred)
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . :
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Disabled

Tunnel adapter isatap.{871EA5E0-935F-4F4D-8E70-B75B63310F1E}:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #6
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Server: cdns01.comcast.net
Address: 2001:558:feed::1

Name: google.com
Addresses: 2607:f8b0:4006:808::1007
     74.125.226.72
     74.125.226.67
     74.125.226.68
     74.125.226.66
     74.125.226.65
     74.125.226.64
     74.125.226.70
     74.125.226.69
     74.125.226.71
     74.125.226.78
     74.125.226.73

Pinging google.com [2607:f8b0:4006:809::1006] with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 2607:f8b0:4006:809::1006: time=22ms
Reply from 2607:f8b0:4006:809::1006: time=21ms

Ping statistics for 2607:f8b0:4006:809::1006:
Packets: Sent = 2, Received = 2, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 21ms, Maximum = 22ms, Average = 21ms
Server: cdns01.comcast.net
Address: 2001:558:feed::1

DNS request timed out.
timeout was 2 seconds.
Name: yahoo.com
Addresses: 98.139.183.24
     98.138.253.109
     206.190.36.45

Pinging yahoo.com [98.138.253.109] with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 98.138.253.109: bytes=32 time=55ms TTL=48
Reply from 98.138.253.109: bytes=32 time=53ms TTL=48

Ping statistics for 98.138.253.109:
Packets: Sent = 2, Received = 2, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 53ms, Maximum = 55ms, Average = 54ms

Pinging 127.0.0.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 127.0.0.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=128
Reply from 127.0.0.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=128

Ping statistics for 127.0.0.1:
Packets: Sent = 2, Received = 2, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 0ms, Average = 0ms
===========================================================================
Interface List
18...64 d4 da 63 d9 3e ......Intel(R) Centrino(R) WiMAX 6150
17...ac 72 89 fa 5d cb ......Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter #2
16...ac 72 89 fa 5d cb ......Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter
14...ac 72 89 fa 5d ce ......Bluetooth Device (Personal Area Network)
12...84 8f 69 b5 a4 d2 ......Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller
11...ac 72 89 fa 5d ca ......Intel(R) Centrino(R) Wireless-N 1030
1...........................Software Loopback Interface 1
21...00 00 00 00 00 00 00 e0 Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
13...00 00 00 00 00 00 00 e0 Microsoft 6to4 Adapter
20...00 00 00 00 00 00 00 e0 Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #2
24...00 00 00 00 00 00 00 e0 Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #4
23...00 00 00 00 00 00 00 e0 Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #5
19...00 00 00 00 00 00 00 e0 Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
42...00 00 00 00 00 00 00 e0 Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #6
===========================================================================

IPv4 Route Table
===========================================================================
Active Routes:
Network Destination Netmask Gateway Interface Metric
0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 10.0.0.1 10.0.0.6 25
10.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 On-link 10.0.0.6 281
10.0.0.6 255.255.255.255 On-link 10.0.0.6 281
10.0.0.255 255.255.255.255 On-link 10.0.0.6 281
127.0.0.0 255.0.0.0 On-link 127.0.0.1 306
127.0.0.1 255.255.255.255 On-link 127.0.0.1 306
127.255.255.255 255.255.255.255 On-link 127.0.0.1 306
224.0.0.0 240.0.0.0 On-link 127.0.0.1 306
224.0.0.0 240.0.0.0 On-link 10.0.0.6 281
255.255.255.255 255.255.255.255 On-link 127.0.0.1 306
255.255.255.255 255.255.255.255 On-link 10.0.0.6 281
===========================================================================
Persistent Routes:
None

IPv6 Route Table
===========================================================================
Active Routes:
If Metric Network Destination Gateway
11 281 ::/0 fe80::21d:d3ff:fe1c:6c41
1 306 ::1/128 On-link
19 58 2001::/32 On-link
19 306 2001:0:9d38:6abd:818:2a63:bbda:f930/128
On-link
11 33 2601:c:d80:73f::/64 On-link
11 281 2601:c:d80:73f:401:b902:9c34:903c/128
On-link
11 281 2601:c:d80:73f:d085:cf8b:2013:b52/128
On-link
11 281 fe80::/64 On-link
19 306 fe80::/64 On-link
19 306 fe80::818:2a63:bbda:f930/128
On-link
11 281 fe80::d085:cf8b:2013:b52/128
On-link
1 306 ff00::/8 On-link
19 306 ff00::/8 On-link
11 281 ff00::/8 On-link
===========================================================================
Persistent Routes:
None
========================= Winsock entries =====================================

Catalog5 01 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\NLAapi.dll [52224] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog5 02 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\napinsp.dll [52224] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog5 03 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\pnrpnsp.dll [65024] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog5 04 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\pnrpnsp.dll [65024] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog5 05 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog5 06 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\winrnr.dll [20992] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog5 07 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\wshbth.dll [36352] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog5 08 C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WLIDNSP.DLL [145280] (Microsoft Corp.)
Catalog5 09 C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WLIDNSP.DLL [145280] (Microsoft Corp.)
Catalog9 01 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 02 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 03 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 04 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 05 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 06 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 07 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 08 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 09 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 10 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
Catalog9 11 C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mswsock.dll [231424] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog5 01 C:\Windows\System32\NLAapi.dll [70656] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog5 02 C:\Windows\System32\napinsp.dll [68096] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog5 03 C:\Windows\System32\pnrpnsp.dll [86016] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog5 04 C:\Windows\System32\pnrpnsp.dll [86016] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog5 05 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog5 06 C:\Windows\System32\winrnr.dll [28672] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog5 07 C:\Windows\System32\wshbth.dll [47104] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog5 08 C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WLIDNSP.DLL [170880] (Microsoft Corp.)
x64-Catalog5 09 C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WLIDNSP.DLL [170880] (Microsoft Corp.)
x64-Catalog9 01 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 02 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 03 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 04 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 05 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 06 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 07 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 08 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 09 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 10 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)
x64-Catalog9 11 C:\Windows\System32\mswsock.dll [327168] (Microsoft Corporation)

========================= Event log errors: ===============================

Application errors:
==================
Error: (09/10/2014 05:34:24 PM) (Source: Application Error) (User: )
Description: Faulting application name: GoogleUpdate.exe, version: 1.3.21.103, time stamp: 0x4f3c6d6c
Faulting module name: ntdll.dll, version: 6.1.7601.18247, time stamp: 0x521ea8e7
Exception code: 0xc0000005
Fault offset: 0x000223e0
Faulting process id: 0x178c
Faulting application start time: 0xGoogleUpdate.exe0
Faulting application path: GoogleUpdate.exe1
Faulting module path: GoogleUpdate.exe2
Report Id: GoogleUpdate.exe3

Error: (09/10/2014 03:22:25 AM) (Source: WinMgmt) (User: )
Description: //./root/CIMV2SELECT * FROM __InstanceModificationEvent WITHIN 60 WHERE TargetInstance ISA "Win32_Processor"

AND TargetInstance.LoadPercentage > 990x80041003

Error: (09/10/2014 00:47:32 AM) (Source: SideBySide) (User: )
Description: Activation context generation failed for "C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest1".Error in manifest or policy file "C:\Windows

\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest2" on line C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest3.
A component version required by the application conflicts with another component version already active.
Conflicting components are:.
Component 1: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest.
Component 2: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\x86_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifest.

Error: (09/10/2014 00:47:00 AM) (Source: SideBySide) (User: )
Description: Activation context generation failed for "C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest1".Error in manifest or policy file "C:\Windows

\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest2" on line C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest3.
A component version required by the application conflicts with another component version already active.
Conflicting components are:.
Component 1: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest.
Component 2: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\x86_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifest.

Error: (09/08/2014 11:46:42 PM) (Source: SideBySide) (User: )
Description: Activation context generation failed for "C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest1".Error in manifest or policy file "C:\Windows

\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest2" on line C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest3.
A component version required by the application conflicts with another component version already active.
Conflicting components are:.
Component 1: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest.
Component 2: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\x86_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifest.

Error: (09/08/2014 11:45:31 PM) (Source: SideBySide) (User: )
Description: Activation context generation failed for "C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest1".Error in manifest or policy file "C:\Windows

\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest2" on line C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest3.
A component version required by the application conflicts with another component version already active.
Conflicting components are:.
Component 1: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest.
Component 2: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\x86_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifest.

Error: (09/08/2014 08:34:27 AM) (Source: WinMgmt) (User: )
Description: //./root/CIMV2SELECT * FROM __InstanceModificationEvent WITHIN 60 WHERE TargetInstance ISA "Win32_Processor"

AND TargetInstance.LoadPercentage > 990x80041003

Error: (09/08/2014 02:35:37 AM) (Source: WinMgmt) (User: )
Description: //./root/CIMV2SELECT * FROM __InstanceModificationEvent WITHIN 60 WHERE TargetInstance ISA "Win32_Processor"

AND TargetInstance.LoadPercentage > 990x80041003

Error: (09/08/2014 01:39:47 AM) (Source: SideBySide) (User: )
Description: Activation context generation failed for "C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest1".Error in manifest or policy file "C:\Windows

\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest2" on line C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest3.
A component version required by the application conflicts with another component version already active.
Conflicting components are:.
Component 1: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifest.
Component 2: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\x86_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifest.

Error: (09/07/2014 04:20:02 AM) (Source: WinMgmt) (User: )
Description: //./root/CIMV2SELECT * FROM __InstanceModificationEvent WITHIN 60 WHERE TargetInstance ISA "Win32_Processor"

AND TargetInstance.LoadPercentage > 990x80041003

System errors:
=============
Error: (09/10/2014 07:08:42 PM) (Source: Disk) (User: )
Description: The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk1\DR3.

Error: (09/10/2014 08:24:18 AM) (Source: Service Control Manager) (User: )
Description: A timeout (30000 milliseconds) was reached while waiting for a transaction response from the SftService

service.

Error: (09/10/2014 08:23:48 AM) (Source: Service Control Manager) (User: )
Description: A timeout (30000 milliseconds) was reached while waiting for a transaction response from the SftService

service.

Error: (09/10/2014 08:23:45 AM) (Source: DCOM) (User: )
Description: {4EB61BAC-A3B6-4760-9581-655041EF4D69}

Error: (09/10/2014 03:24:35 AM) (Source: Service Control Manager) (User: )
Description: The Dell Digital Delivery Service service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s).

Error: (09/10/2014 03:21:23 AM) (Source: Disk) (User: )
Description: The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk1\DR4.

Error: (09/08/2014 00:40:24 PM) (Source: bowser) (User: )
Description: The master browser has received a server announcement from the computer SMITH-COMPAQ-PRE
that believes that it is the master browser for the domain on transport NetBT_Tcpip_{C8131852-2652-4829-A005-

9037A838455F}.
The master browser is stopping or an election is being forced.

Error: (09/08/2014 10:00:21 AM) (Source: Service Control Manager) (User: )
Description: A timeout (30000 milliseconds) was reached while waiting for a transaction response from the SftService

service.

Error: (09/08/2014 09:59:51 AM) (Source: Service Control Manager) (User: )
Description: A timeout (30000 milliseconds) was reached while waiting for a transaction response from the SftService

service.

Error: (09/08/2014 08:36:40 AM) (Source: Service Control Manager) (User: )
Description: The Dell Digital Delivery Service service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s).

Microsoft Office Sessions:
=========================
Error: (09/10/2014 05:34:24 PM) (Source: Application Error)(User: )
Description: GoogleUpdate.exe1.3.21.1034f3c6d6cntdll .dll6.1.7601.18247521ea8e7c000000500022 3e0178c01cfcd3cefdd1a9aC:

\Program Files (x86)\Google\Update\GoogleUpdate.exeC:\Windows\SysWOW64\ntdll.dll3b4ea3b4-3932-11e4-95ca-ac7289fa5dce

Error: (09/10/2014 03:22:25 AM) (Source: WinMgmt)(User: )
Description: //./root/CIMV2SELECT * FROM __InstanceModificationEvent WITHIN 60 WHERE TargetInstance ISA "Win32_Processor"

AND TargetInstance.LoadPercentage > 990x80041003

Error: (09/10/2014 00:47:32 AM) (Source: SideBySide)(User: )
Description: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifestC:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\x86_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifestc:\Program Files

(x86)\Cozi Express\CoziExpress.exe

Error: (09/10/2014 00:47:00 AM) (Source: SideBySide)(User: )
Description: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifestC:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\x86_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifestC:\Program Files

(x86)\Nero\Nero8\Nero Toolkit\DiscSpeed.exe

Error: (09/08/2014 11:46:42 PM) (Source: SideBySide)(User: )
Description: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifestC:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\x86_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifestc:\Program Files

(x86)\Cozi Express\CoziExpress.exe

Error: (09/08/2014 11:45:31 PM) (Source: SideBySide)(User: )
Description: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifestC:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\x86_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifestC:\Program Files

(x86)\Nero\Nero8\Nero Toolkit\DiscSpeed.exe

Error: (09/08/2014 08:34:27 AM) (Source: WinMgmt)(User: )
Description: //./root/CIMV2SELECT * FROM __InstanceModificationEvent WITHIN 60 WHERE TargetInstance ISA "Win32_Processor"

AND TargetInstance.LoadPercentage > 990x80041003

Error: (09/08/2014 02:35:37 AM) (Source: WinMgmt)(User: )
Description: //./root/CIMV2SELECT * FROM __InstanceModificationEvent WITHIN 60 WHERE TargetInstance ISA "Win32_Processor"

AND TargetInstance.LoadPercentage > 990x80041003

Error: (09/08/2014 01:39:47 AM) (Source: SideBySide)(User: )
Description: C:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests\amd64_microsoft.windows.common-

controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.1751 4_none_fa396087175ac9ac.manifestC:\Windows\WinSxS\manifests

\x86_microsoft.windows.common-controls_6595b64144ccf1df_6.0.7601.17514_none_41e6975e2bd6f2b2.manifestc:\Program Files

(x86)\Cozi Express\CoziExpress.exe

Error: (09/07/2014 04:20:02 AM) (Source: WinMgmt)(User: )
Description: //./root/CIMV2SELECT * FROM __InstanceModificationEvent WITHIN 60 WHERE TargetInstance ISA "Win32_Processor"

AND TargetInstance.LoadPercentage > 990x80041003

========================= Devices: ================================

Name: Intel® Centrino® Wireless Bluetooth® 3.0 + High Speed Virtual Adapter
Description: Intel® Centrino® Wireless Bluetooth® 3.0 + High Speed Virtual Adapter
Class Guid: {b0755d59-9657-467d-b89d-74c1f645aeb3}
Manufacturer: Intel Corporation
Service: AMPPAL
Problem: : This device is disabled. (Code 22)
Resolution: In Device Manager, click "Action", and then click "Enable Device". This starts the Enable Device wizard.

Follow the instructions.

========================= Memory info: ===================================

Percentage of memory in use: 41%
Total physical RAM: 8086.17 MB
Available physical RAM: 4714.45 MB
Total Pagefile: 16170.52 MB
Available Pagefile: 11972.64 MB
Total Virtual: 4095.88 MB
Available Virtual: 3981.17 MB

========================= Partitions: =====================================

1 Drive c: (OS) (Fixed) (Total:679 GB) (Free:579.82 GB) NTFS
3 Drive e: () (Removable) (Total:14.83 GB) (Free:6.02 GB) FAT32

========================= Users: ========================================

User accounts for \\SMITH_1

Administrator Guest Smith

========================= Minidump Files ==================================

No minidump file found

**** End of log ****
Results of screen317's Security Check version 0.99.87
Windows 7 Service Pack 1 x64 (UAC is enabled)
Internet Explorer 11
``````````````Antivirus/Firewall Check:``````````````[/u]
Windows Firewall Enabled!
Microsoft Security Essentials
Antivirus up to date!
`````````Anti-malware/Other Utilities Check:`````````[/u]
Java(TM) 6 Update 27
Java version out of Date!
Adobe Flash Player 14.0.0.179
Mozilla Firefox (32.0)
Google Chrome 37.0.2062.103
Google Chrome 37.0.2062.120
````````Process Check: objlist.exe by Laurent````````[/u]
Microsoft Security Essentials MSMpEng.exe
Microsoft Security Essentials msseces.exe
`````````````````System Health check`````````````````[/u]
Total Fragmentation on Drive C: 1%
````````````````````End of Log``````````````````````[/u]
here is the Speccy log

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Try clearing your cache files using Ccleaner then run Adwcleaner and Malwarebytes just in case.

Try clearing your cache files : Free Ccleaner
Ignore the Registry feature of Ccleaner as it is not recommended or needed.

Download Adwcleaner by Xplode from here.
Click on Adwcleaner and hit the Scan button and will begin to search for PUP and malicious files. Once finished click the Clean button.
Copy and paste the log on your next reply.

Scan for Malware using free Malwarebytes
Install then run a quick scan only after updating to the latest definition.Uncheck the trial pro version on setup and remove any found threats after running the scan. Please post also the result.I don't think there could be virus or malware. I only got the computer last week and did a reformat/re-install of the OS as soon as I got it. The computer is supposed to be better/faster than my old one (a Dell 14" laptop) so I gotta wonder why the wi-fi connection is so bad. My old computer connects at around 30mbps (Comcast cable internet) and this one (when it does connect) is at like 8mbps. Both are about 15ft from the router in another room (where I usually use my computer). I've never had connection issues with any of my other computers...I think the topic was accidentally marked as solved though it is not solved yet... Quote from: a1148383 on September 10, 2014, 10:53:30 PM

The computer has only 3 USB ports and I do need the use of all 3 for other items to be plugged in.

Unpowered USB hubs are very cheap. I have keyboard, mouse and pen drive all running from 1 USB port.

Discussion

6230.	Solve : Bad Connection?
Answer» Not sure if I am incorrect section. But here goes. I seem to have an ongoing problem with working with my external drive. When I first try to open up Microsoft Expression it can take ages (UP TO 10 MINUTES) to get in to the hard drive where most files are stored. Once I get in it then very often has problems SAVING as I update a file. Plus most of the time I seem to have the circular green-blue sign going round most of the time. I spend ages just staring at my screen going nowhere. Can anyone please help? I am on WINDOWS 7 Regards Quote On December 20, 2012, Microsoft announced[4] that the Expression products would be deprecated, with Blend becoming a standalone tool with Visual Studio 2012 Update 2, Expression Studio 4 Ultimate and Expression Studio 4 Web Professional no longer available for sale but supported through their support lifecycle, Expression Design 4 and Expression Web 4 available as unsupported free editions, Expression Encoder 4 Pro available for purchase through 2013, Expression Encoder 4 remains available for download at no charge. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microsoft_Expression_Studio IF it were me, I would try two things. 1.) use an internal drive instead of an external. 2. ) Upgrade to a newer Studio product from Microsoft. Visual Studio Express 2013 for Web Firstly thank you for getting back to me Geek After Dark . Unfortunately I need to try and solve this WITHOUT throwing cash at the problem. These days OAP like me do not have spare cash to use, just have to find ways around. Hence my request up here for help. Expression works OK on my C drive its when I work on E drive (my external drive) that I have problems, this is where were 99% of everything I have LIVES. I can not place any of this onto E as it is mainly images and is a fairly large system So Is there an idiots guide to sorting out the pathways on my system Please. It would need to show me in layman’s language how to fix it I was told to try http://www.malwarebytes.org/lp/malware_lp_form/ download and run free version of malwarebytes anti malware is a good start. I did this it found things wrong but has not solved the problem. Hope some one can help Ian There is a troubleshooting guide in another place on this forum. CH Troubleshooting guide The link will show a number of articles about computer troubleshooting. The most common problem is infections of computer virus. That is a major topic by itself. There is a place on the forum devoted just to that problem In hardware, the most common problem is hard drive weakness. The life of a hard drive is not easy to PREDICT. Some last for years, some fail all of a sudden. It is a goo idea to have a backup on a separate hard drive.

6230.

Solve : Bad Connection?

Answer»

Not sure if I am incorrect section. But here goes.
I seem to have an ongoing problem with working with my external drive.
When I first try to open up Microsoft Expression it can take ages (UP TO 10 MINUTES) to get in to the hard drive where most files are stored. Once I get in it then very often has problems SAVING as I update a file. Plus most of the time I seem to have the circular green-blue sign going round most of the time.
I spend ages just staring at my screen going nowhere. Can anyone please help? I am on WINDOWS 7
Regards Quote

On December 20, 2012, Microsoft announced[4] that the Expression products would be deprecated, with Blend becoming a standalone tool with Visual Studio 2012 Update 2, Expression Studio 4 Ultimate and Expression Studio 4 Web Professional no longer available for sale but supported through their support lifecycle, Expression Design 4 and Expression Web 4 available as unsupported free editions, Expression Encoder 4 Pro available for purchase through 2013, Expression Encoder 4 remains available for download at no charge.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microsoft_Expression_Studio

IF it were me, I would try two things.
1.) use an internal drive instead of an external.
2. ) Upgrade to a newer Studio product from Microsoft.
Visual Studio Express 2013 for Web
Firstly thank you for getting back to me Geek After Dark .
Unfortunately I need to try and solve this WITHOUT throwing cash at the problem. These days OAP like me do not have spare cash to use, just have to find ways around. Hence my request up here for help.
Expression works OK on my C drive its when I work on E drive (my external drive) that I have problems, this is where were 99% of everything I have LIVES. I can not place any of this onto E as it is mainly images and is a fairly large system
So Is there an idiots guide to sorting out the pathways on my system Please. It would need to show me in layman’s language how to fix it

I was told to try http://www.malwarebytes.org/lp/malware_lp_form/ download and run free version of malwarebytes anti malware is a good start.
I did this it found things wrong but has not solved the problem.
Hope some one can help
Ian
There is a troubleshooting guide in another place on this forum.
CH Troubleshooting guide
The link will show a number of articles about computer troubleshooting.
The most common problem is infections of computer virus. That is a major topic by itself. There is a place on the forum devoted just to that problem
In hardware, the most common problem is hard drive weakness. The life of a hard drive is not easy to PREDICT. Some last for years, some fail all of a sudden. It is a goo idea to have a backup on a separate hard drive.

Discussion

6231.	Solve : Webcam make and model??
Answer» I posted a webcam question that i cant find on the forum now. Pls help.This is the only Post that shows up in your Profile...did you create more than 1 profile ? ?Hello everyone. I had a webcam that is broken now and i want to BUY a new one but i dont have the box or anything as i got from a friend. All it says on the webcam itself is poa 1688. It has got built in LIGHTS and has a clip to attach to ur computer. Can anyone plsssss advise? P.s i have a pic of this webcam but i cant attach it here as it says file size is too big. I am not very good in tech. (This is my only profile. I just JOINED. I have posted again. Pls check and advise. Many thanksSee Here...P.S. Soph... In future you can just clik your profile at the top of any page...or on a post you have made...on the left side upper there is a "Show Posts" hotlink that will list all of your posts... Welcome Aboard BTW...Sure i will do the same. Many thanks for managing this amazing forum. I'm just the Janitor.... We try to do our best. If you're on a low budget for this, I SUGGEST Microsoft T3H-00011 L2 LifeCam HD-3000 USB 2.0 WebCam Currently i am using ms lifecam hd3000 and i dont like it. I want to post the picture but dont know how to make the file size reduced. Any IDEA?topics mergedCool...

Discussion

6232.	Solve : Acer Aspire one ZG5 doesnt come on?
Answer» Its running win XP, but the issue with it is that when I power it on, the power light COMES on, the fan comes on, but thats it, no display. I cant get any display on the screen at all. Cant GO into safe mode, cant get the options screen, cant go into the bios nothing. I DONT even know if trying to reload the operating system will do anything, I dont even know how to get it to reload the operating system as there is no disk drive. Any suggestions as to what i can do to REVIVE the laptop

Discussion

6233.	Solve : CX7400 Epson printer?
Answer» Does anyone know if this printer is compatible with Windows 8.1 (used to have Vista). No matter what I do I cannot get the STATUS monitor or any of the preferences/maintenance to download. Tried the original disc twice. Tried downloading the Windows 8 update off their web page three times. It prints but I can't ADJUST SETTINGS. The scan does work. Just bought this printer. Did I mess the bed? I figured it out. Sometimes just a little messin' around will do it.CH has been TESTING a new remote - automated help interface.

Discussion

6234.	Solve : Dell vs iMac 2014?
Answer» Dear Members and Mods a) Which system should I go with and why? b) Can both connect to a wireless router out-of-the-box? c) Some of my software is only available for Windows. d) Are both systems equally reliable? Dell 23 All-In-One CPU: i7 up to 3.4ghz OS:Windows 8.1 64Bit RAM: 12GB DDR3 GPU: AMD Radeon HD 8690A GDDR5 2GB HardDrive: 1TB 5400rpm Hybrid Office Home 2013 McAfee 30-Day Keyboard Wireless Mouse Wireless DW 1705 802.11bgn + BLUETOOTH 4.0, 2.4 GHz, 1x1 4 Year Basic In-Home Support iMac 21.5 CPU: i7 up to 3.9ghz OS: Mavericks RAM: 16gb DDR3 GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 1GB HardDrive: 1tb 5400rpm Office for Mac Home 2011 Apple Mouse Apple Keyboard with Number Keypad AppleCare Protection Plan 3year If you have the money, go for the MAC. b) Yes c) Then you will need to get the Dell or budget AROUND $100 more for a copy of Windows on the Mac (or find alternative software) d) Very hard to judge reliability, both should be fine though. There is no real best system out of those, it all comes down to whether you want to use Mac OS or Windows.Several different methods are available for running Windows on Intel Macs: To dual-boot between OS X and Windows, use Apple's Boot Camp. ... To run Windows in a virtual machine within OS X, use Parallels Desktop, VMware Fusion, or VirtualBox. Reference: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2344661,00.asp 3 thoughts... 1) All-in-one PC's are junk...very LIMITED on upgradibility... 2)You need to decide between Win and Mac and forget the advice above...even though it does work it's a mess... 3) You need to TAKE your budget into consideration here...

Discussion

6235.	Solve : lenovo g580 laptop issue?
Answer» hi my LENOVO g580 laptop POWER lights are on but SHOWS black screen tried removing battery HOLDING power button no luck?PLEASE help

Discussion

6236.	Solve : Replacing my Video Card?
Answer» I want to replace my video card with another with 2 DVI ports and 1 hdmi port. Just want to run my TWO monitors and watch pc tv through the hdmi port-nothing heavy like gaming. My current PC specs: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&docname=c02679151#N384. Power supply is 250w. Windows 7. Any suggestions, not too expensive?What is the size of your budget for this? Is this for gaming and if so what games are what RESOLUTION / quality setting? You will need a power supply upgrade + video card... 250 watts is too WEAK for dual dvi + HDMI unless you go with a very low end card. I don't think you'll be able to find anything. You don't have a PCI-Express x16 slot, it's just a PCI. You pretty much can't even find PCI or AGP cards anymore. If you really need something, it'll be one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007709%20600007853&IsNodeId=1&name=PCI

Discussion

6237.	Solve : Switching HDD on laptop (please help)?
Answer» I plan on buying a vostro v13 that does not have a HDD. I want to SWITCH my current laptops HDD (from a inspiron 1545) into the vostro v13. They are both build for 2.5 sata and both laptops are dell. I heard that I will need to reformat the HDD and have a new operating system DISK, is that true? And would I need a brand new operating system pack or would I just need the re-installation disk? You will need to install the OS from scratch on the new laptop.He can image the existing hDD just in case... Then he can install the existing HDD and RUN a Repair Install...depending on the OS it should work out fine... More details. Also if the above FAILS he can do a Factory restore from the hidden partition... Those are the options i see available...patio - the repair install would work only with XP to the best of my knowledge - and he'd still need an XP CD. As for a factory reinstall, the new laptop doesn't have an hd so I'm not sure what a restore from the hd of the old system to the new ONE would accomplish - it's two different systems. Unless I'm missing something???I've done the Repair install all the way up to Win7... Does it work everytime ? ?...No. As to the factory restore he is looking to re-use the old HDD...not a new one...so that would work as well. Until we get more info as to what he wants i was just suggesting options to make an old HDD work in a newer - HDD laptop...that's all.

Discussion

6238.	Solve : Gaming Computer - Confirmation?
Answer» I plan to build a NEW Gaming PC. I came up with some components and I thought they were decent. I need your help to confirm that all of my components will correctly function (Fit with the motherboard, etc.) and that this new Gaming PC will run Computer-Intensive games (Such as ARMA 3, BioShock Infinite, etc.) Please look at this list of components that their amazon links provided in this pastebin: http://pastebin.com/Ys0qP471 Please look in detail at every component and make SURE that they will all fit with the motherboard, be compatible with the motherboard, etc. If you have any suggestions for anything and if you notice any slight problem, please feel free to comment. Thank you SOOO much for your time. You seem about all set. You didn't list a POWER supply though, that's pretty important. Your case is big enough for the graphics card, your RAM's clock speed is correct for the motherboard and the cpu. The disk drive is SATA, right for the motherboard. Hard drive is SATA 6 gb/s, make sure you put it on the 6gb/s slot and not one of the 3gb/s slots. CPU is correct socket for the motherboard as well. Only consideration other than the PSU is I would get Windows 7 instead of 8, but that's entirely up to you. Edit: Just re-checked, your motherboard select is a B75 Express chipset meant for BUSINESS use mostly. I would look to find a Z77 motherboard instead.Pardon me. When I tried to read the Link given and all I saw was a list of links. It would have been easier just to list the items by name and type. Like name of mother board, name pf CPU. Quote from: InfamousMyzt on September 21, 2014, 09:24:01 PM Only consideration other than the PSU is I would get Windows 7 instead of 8, but that's entirely up to you. Why would you prefer Windows 7? Is it a better fit for this set up or something about Windows 8 that I should avoid? I really want to know 'coz I also have a somewhat similar set-up and I'm thinking of getting Windows 8. It's just not an incredibly popular OS. If you've used it and like it, then no problems. Most people hate the UI and a bunch of other small issues. Personally preference really, just popular opinion is that Win7 is better.All of that stuff will work together but you are buying a 2 year old CPU and motherboard, I would advise you to look at newer Haswell/Devil's Canyon chips and suitable motherboards. What power supply are you looking at? This is a very important component. The OS is totally personal opinion, there is no "best" OS.I have looked at all of your comments, and I want to thank you for your time. I have now chosen to keep all of my components in my Build besides a new MOBO, CPU, and of course a new PSU. Here is the pastebin link for these components: http://pastebin.com/itRSvRNJ Please make sure these new components are compatible with the rest (Found in the previous pastebin). And as always, again, thank you for your help.You're all set, just keep in mind that the new motherboard supports AMD's Crossfire, but not nVidia's SLI; However both of these technologies are not very cost efficient and I don't recommend using them unless you're going REALLY high END, so it shouldn't matter. Also, check newegg for the same parts just to see if any of them are cheaper. Good luck on the build!

6238.

Solve : Gaming Computer - Confirmation?

Answer»

I plan to build a NEW Gaming PC. I came up with some components and I thought they were decent.
I need your help to confirm that all of my components will correctly function (Fit with the motherboard, etc.) and that this new
Gaming PC will run Computer-Intensive games (Such as ARMA 3, BioShock Infinite, etc.)
Please look at this list of components that their amazon links provided in this pastebin: http://pastebin.com/Ys0qP471
Please look in detail at every component and make SURE that they will all fit with the motherboard, be compatible with the motherboard,
etc. If you have any suggestions for anything and if you notice any slight problem, please feel free to comment.
Thank you SOOO much for your time. You seem about all set. You didn't list a POWER supply though, that's pretty important.

Your case is big enough for the graphics card, your RAM's clock speed is correct for the motherboard and the cpu.

The disk drive is SATA, right for the motherboard. Hard drive is SATA 6 gb/s, make sure you put it on the 6gb/s slot and not one of the 3gb/s slots.

CPU is correct socket for the motherboard as well.

Only consideration other than the PSU is I would get Windows 7 instead of 8, but that's entirely up to you.

Edit: Just re-checked, your motherboard select is a B75 Express chipset meant for BUSINESS use mostly. I would look to find a Z77 motherboard instead.Pardon me.
When I tried to read the Link given and all I saw was a list of links.
It would have been easier just to list the items by name and type.
Like name of mother board, name pf CPU.
Quote from: InfamousMyzt on September 21, 2014, 09:24:01 PM

Only consideration other than the PSU is I would get Windows 7 instead of 8, but that's entirely up to you.

Why would you prefer Windows 7? Is it a better fit for this set up or something about Windows 8 that I should avoid? I really want to know 'coz I also have a somewhat similar set-up and I'm thinking of getting Windows 8.
It's just not an incredibly popular OS. If you've used it and like it, then no problems. Most people hate the UI and a bunch of other small issues. Personally preference really, just popular opinion is that Win7 is better.All of that stuff will work together but you are buying a 2 year old CPU and motherboard, I would advise you to look at newer Haswell/Devil's Canyon chips and suitable motherboards.

What power supply are you looking at? This is a very important component.

The OS is totally personal opinion, there is no "best" OS.I have looked at all of your comments, and I want to thank you for your time.
I have now chosen to keep all of my components in my Build besides a new MOBO, CPU, and of course a new PSU.
Here is the pastebin link for these components: http://pastebin.com/itRSvRNJ
Please make sure these new components are compatible with the rest (Found in the previous pastebin).
And as always, again, thank you for your help.You're all set, just keep in mind that the new motherboard supports AMD's Crossfire, but not nVidia's SLI; However both of these technologies are not very cost efficient and I don't recommend using them unless you're going REALLY high END, so it shouldn't matter.

Also, check newegg for the same parts just to see if any of them are cheaper.

Good luck on the build!

Discussion

6239.	Solve : Custom comp. issues?
Answer» I'm new to the forum, so if I do anything incorrectly, please notify me. Today I left the house as I always do, with my computer on. I keep it in a well ventilated area, on a hard surface. The tower has four fans in it, so I think I'm good in that department. I CAME home, and saw the computer was off. So like any other person, I tried to turn it back on. It wouldn't budge. I followed the common things and turned it off, unplugged everything, plugged it all back in etc. When that did not work, I opened my tower up to see if everything was in order. As far as I could see, nothing looked out of place. When I go to turn it on, the power lights flicker, then go dead. Anyone have an idea? Here's my stats on the comp: Processor Intel(R) CORE(TM) i5-3570K CPU 3.40GHz Nvidia GTX GeForce 760 Graphics Card (I don't know much about power sources so bear with me aha) APOWER AK SERIES 680W POWER SOURCE I have somewhere around 1,500 gigabytes of data, and 8 gigabytes of ram. 4 fans, as I've said before. Please, I spent quite a pretty penny of this comp, and I'm hoping SOMEBODY out there can help me out. Thanks in advance. Quote from: DeLoreanDMC on September 18, 2014, 06:00:17 PM APOWER AK SERIES 680W POWER SOURCE I would first of all try a different power supply, that looks like a very low end, generic PSU, not the sort of thing that should be used in any PC really, let alone a performance one like that. The power supply is the one part of the PC you should never cheap out on, if it turns out that you do need to replace it, GET a good brand of unit such as XFX, Corsair, Seasonic, EVGA, Antec, Superflower.etc.Aha! This would make a great deal of sense. I plugged the computer into several different outlets, and only one worked. Power source it is! Thank you very much Mr.Gray! Resolved That kind of thing can also mean the power CORD has a problem. It is a good idea to have a spare power cord on hand. It happens.I'm confused...are you saying it was the power source and not the PSU ? ?

6239.

Solve : Custom comp. issues?

Answer»

I'm new to the forum, so if I do anything incorrectly, please notify me. Today I left the house as I always do, with my computer on. I keep it in a well ventilated area, on a hard surface. The tower has four fans in it, so I think I'm good in that department. I CAME home, and saw the computer was off. So like any other person, I tried to turn it back on. It wouldn't budge. I followed the common things and turned it off, unplugged everything, plugged it all back in etc. When that did not work, I opened my tower up to see if everything was in order. As far as I could see, nothing looked out of place. When I go to turn it on, the power lights flicker, then go dead. Anyone have an idea? Here's my stats on the comp:
Processor Intel(R) CORE(TM) i5-3570K CPU 3.40GHz
Nvidia GTX GeForce 760 Graphics Card
(I don't know much about power sources so bear with me aha)
APOWER AK SERIES 680W POWER SOURCE
I have somewhere around 1,500 gigabytes of data, and 8 gigabytes of ram.
4 fans, as I've said before.

Please, I spent quite a pretty penny of this comp, and I'm hoping SOMEBODY out there can help me out. Thanks in advance. Quote from: DeLoreanDMC on September 18, 2014, 06:00:17 PM

APOWER AK SERIES 680W POWER SOURCE

I would first of all try a different power supply, that looks like a very low end, generic PSU, not the sort of thing that should be used in any PC really, let alone a performance one like that.

The power supply is the one part of the PC you should never cheap out on, if it turns out that you do need to replace it, GET a good brand of unit such as XFX, Corsair, Seasonic, EVGA, Antec, Superflower.etc.Aha! This would make a great deal of sense. I plugged the computer into several different outlets, and only one worked. Power source it is! Thank you very much Mr.Gray!

Resolved That kind of thing can also mean the power CORD has a problem. It is a good idea to have a spare power cord on hand. It happens.I'm confused...are you saying it was the power source and not the PSU ? ?

Discussion

6240.	Solve : Questions about fixing dead computer.?
Answer» I own a Gateway DX4380G-uw308 desktop which came with Windows 8 installed. I'm pretty certain that my motherboard and possibly the processor are fried. The computer is barely more than a year old and I already had to send it in to have the MB, CPU, and HD replaced. Now it is no longer under warranty and it has died again. What I want to do is purchase a similar motherboard (and possibly the same processor) and swap it out. There are just a few things I'm uncertain about and I hope someone can help. 1. Can I replace the motherboard/processor with one that is a step up? AMD A75 to AMD A78 for example. 2. My version of windows that came with the PC is on the HD and does not have any recovery disks. Will the version of windows on my HD work once it is plugged into a new motherboard? If not, would it work if I purchased the exact same MB? What follows are my own thoughts. Some time ago, well, many years ago, I own a Gateway. The computer power supply went out and get wasted. They sent a new one. And after that the machine continue to work for one quite a while, and I eventually sold to SOMEBODY else. But I will not recommend Gateway to any. The reason is that the dream of Gateway has faded, and now the company is simply going out of business. Unless they come up with a very clever way to keep a small group of happy customers, they will have to drop out of the business and go do something else. Maybe they COULD go back to raising milk cows. At the present time, the major desktop computer companies are Dell and HP. ket. Also, you have to factor in two or three other companies. Most of the computers I have now are Dell computers that I purchased refurbished. I have also had Compaq, IBM and HP computers. Now if you are satisfied with the monitor you GOT from Gateway, you could go by a refurbished computer from Dell for less money than what you would pay for a new motherboard and CPU. You can get a i3 computer refurbished from Dell for less than $300 and it will come with a HD ram & warranty. All you have to do is that a monitor, keyboard and the mouse. In my opinion, that would be a better investment than trying to find the motherboard that fulfill the case of the Gateway computer. As for the HARD drive, you could use an EXTRA hard drive for backup. If you pick the right case, you'll be able to put another hard drive in the same case, and thus have extra storage space and the foundation for a good backup plan. Unfortunately, the power supplies used in many Dell computers have a strange form factor and then not going to work in another machine and vice versa. So, simply put, my opinion is go out and buy a refurbished Dell computer and just use the leftovers from your Gateway. It's just too hard to try to match up the CPU and motherboard, unless you're really deep into hardware. I've been doing hardware for a long time, and I get messed up myself find get the right CPU and the right motherboard. So I quit trying. Of course, that's just me. Maybe you'll do better. BTW: A good refurbished desktop comes with a current version of Windows.I don't understand why it's not still under warranty...normally they re-up it on replacement claims... You may wanna look into that...It seems the best route may be to buy a MB/CPU combo for around $150 and even a version of windows for 70-$80. If I can simply replace the MB then it would cost less than $100. I will check into the warranty since they replaced so much but I did enter my S/N to check it and it said it wasn't. Gateway support isn't very helpful. Last time I had to pay to send the whole tower in to be fixed. The only reason I bought a Gateway is because I like Acer and I thought Gateway would be better with them behind them. I'm just hoping to find the cheapest way to get this computer running again.If it were me i'd seriously consider cutting my losses and doin a completely new build...that's just me.So far, I haven't spent anything (except the Shipping for the warranty repair) so I'm hoping someone can help me with the two questions I posed. Is there a way to use the same OEM? Or should I just buy a new motherboard/CPU and a new version of windows. If I do get a new MB, I assume there won't be any problems with an upgrade since I'm purchasing a new version of windows.

Discussion

6241.	Solve : Gaming Computer - CPU, GPU, PSU, MOBO??
Answer» Hello!!! Recently I have been having trouble with what CPU,GPU,PSU, and MOBO to get. I have a build list, but it is not complete due to the fact that I cannot seem to come up with a reasoning to what CPU, GPU, PSU, and MOBO I should get. My budget is around the $800-$900 price range, and I would like for someone to give me suggestions as to what else they would recommend. As for the Case, OS, RAM, and Hard Drive...I think I have made up my mind that I would most likely include those in my build.... Here is the uncompleted "build list": HTTP://pastebin.com/x1kcKLUks Are the components that I have chosen so far compatible with the others that you may suggest? Are these components good? With my price range taken into consideration I was thinking about getting a GeForce GTX 770. Would this Graphics Card be able to run computer-intensive games (Such as ARMA 3, Planetside 2, BioShock Infinte) at a high FPS at really high settings? If not, please recommend one, as well as a CPU, MOBO, and PSU. As for a CPU and MOBO I have been in an argument over whether I should get an Intel CPU or AMD taken into consideration my price range and how expensive my GPU is (Because I DO NOT want to get an expensive CPU and MOBO that will force me to get a Bad-Performing GPU). Which do you suggest I should get? And finally, as for a PSU I would like a good quality, 80+ certified PSU that will power all my components well without exceeding my price range. Thank you SOO much for spending your time helping me, and have a nice day!! Your pastebin link is dead but I'll continue based on a rough idea of what you could get for your budget assuming your case, RAM and HDD aren't anything insane. CPU: In your price range you can easily get some sort of Intel Core i5 such as a 4690k Motherboard: Look at ones with the Z97 chipset from Gigabyte or ASUS - You don't need anything crazy. GPU: I'd generally pick this last so you know how much you have left to spend, then get the best you can afford. I'd expect SOMETHING like the NVIDIA GeForce 760/770 or something like an AMD Radeon R9 280x. Either would be fine for most stuff, just bear in mind that if you want to run Linux, AMD's driver support is terrible so you would be best with NVIDIA in this case. PSU: Assuming that you don't go crazy for the video card, 550w would be fine, maybe 650w for a bit more headroom. I'd then look at just getting a good brand like XFX, Seasonic, Corsair (Not CX or VS), Antec, SuperFlower.etc. Stuff like modular cables is nice, but that is really up to you whether you want to spend the extra or not. I would also strongly recommend getting an SSD if your budget allows, Crucual do some very good reasonably priced ones.

Discussion

6242.	Solve : Suggestions for a z97 1150 socket gaming motherboard?
Answer» I'm BUILDING a 2000 gaming computer, and I have almost everything confirmed except my mother board, and I need some suggestions. I'd like to go with a z97 board but a good z87 would do just fine. I'm putting in an i5 4690 and a GTX 770. Thanks! Btw I won't be doing any over clocking.You didn't post info about the rest of your build or budget room, but this board is about the best you can get for Z97. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132125So you want to get into the new Intel Haswell CPU. Quote The new Gigabyte Z87 GA-Z87X-OC comes standard with a lot of the features Gigabyte only used to include in higher-end models. http://toptengamer.hubpages.com/hub/Best-1150-Motherboard Quote Haswell processors are a step up, in terms of speed, from previous Ivy Bridge processors. Across the board you'll see a 6% to 10% increase in PERFORMANCE. That being said if you're upgrading from a Ivy Bridge processor, then the biggest benefit you'll see is a substantial boost integrated graphics and significant energy savings on mobile devices. For example battery life on laptops should increase a good 2 to 3 hours from Ivy Bridge. Performance users or those looking overclock may find that the upgrade from Ivy or Sandy is simply not worth it. What that means is , Yes, it is new TECH. But No, it is not really intended to help gamers. The improvement is mostly better design and lower power. Still, it is a good choice. Good stuff. Just do not expect double the performance of older boards. Quite true sry about that, CPU: Intel core i5 4690 - 230$ GPU: evga nvidia geforce gtx 770 dual super locked acx - 320 PSU: corsair cx750m - 80$ CPU cooler: CM hyper 212 evo - 35$ Ram: G.skill sniper series 16gb (2x8gb) 1866mhz cl 9 - 180$ hard drive and ssd: 120gb Samsung 840 eco, and wd caviar black 1tb both 80$+80$ and its all going in a corsair 760tYou should be fine with the motherboard I linked. Your cpu only supports up to 1600mhz on RAM, but your motherboard will underclock your ram down to 1600 for you. I don't think you'd save much money at all dropping to 1600mhz RAM.If you aren't overclocking there isn't really a major point going with Z97, H97 would do fine. As far as brands go, look at Gigabyte or ASUS. I would advise not to get *87 chipsets for that CPU as they may need a BIOS update to SUPPORT the 4690, if the board doesn't come with this update you would need to have an older Haswell CPU in order to flash the update. Also, if I may comment on other bits of your build, I'd swap out that PSU, 750w is overkill and the Corsair CXs aren't the best quality - You would be better off going for a lower WATTAGE unit ~550-650w from either a higher Corsair range or another brand such as Seasonic of XFX.

6242.

Solve : Suggestions for a z97 1150 socket gaming motherboard?

Answer»

I'm BUILDING a 2000 gaming computer, and I have almost everything confirmed except my mother board, and I need some suggestions. I'd like to go with a z97 board but a good z87 would do just fine. I'm putting in an i5 4690 and a GTX 770. Thanks! Btw I won't be doing any over clocking.You didn't post info about the rest of your build or budget room, but this board is about the best you can get for Z97.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132125So you want to get into the new Intel Haswell CPU.
Quote

The new Gigabyte Z87 GA-Z87X-OC comes standard with a lot of the features Gigabyte only used to include in higher-end models.

http://toptengamer.hubpages.com/hub/Best-1150-Motherboard
Quote

Haswell processors are a step up, in terms of speed, from previous Ivy Bridge processors. Across the board you'll see a 6% to 10% increase in PERFORMANCE. That being said if you're upgrading from a Ivy Bridge processor, then the biggest benefit you'll see is a substantial boost integrated graphics and significant energy savings on mobile devices. For example battery life on laptops should increase a good 2 to 3 hours from Ivy Bridge. Performance users or those looking overclock may find that the upgrade from Ivy or Sandy is simply not worth it.

What that means is , Yes, it is new TECH. But No, it is not really intended to help gamers. The improvement is mostly better design and lower power.

Still, it is a good choice. Good stuff. Just do not expect double the performance of older boards. Quite true sry about that,

CPU: Intel core i5 4690 - 230$

GPU: evga nvidia geforce gtx 770 dual super locked acx - 320

PSU: corsair cx750m - 80$

CPU cooler: CM hyper 212 evo - 35$

Ram: G.skill sniper series 16gb (2x8gb) 1866mhz cl 9 - 180$

hard drive and ssd: 120gb Samsung 840 eco, and wd caviar black 1tb both 80$+80$

and its all going in a corsair 760tYou should be fine with the motherboard I linked. Your cpu only supports up to 1600mhz on RAM, but your motherboard will underclock your ram down to 1600 for you. I don't think you'd save much money at all dropping to 1600mhz RAM.If you aren't overclocking there isn't really a major point going with Z97, H97 would do fine. As far as brands go, look at Gigabyte or ASUS.

I would advise not to get *87 chipsets for that CPU as they may need a BIOS update to SUPPORT the 4690, if the board doesn't come with this update you would need to have an older Haswell CPU in order to flash the update.

Also, if I may comment on other bits of your build, I'd swap out that PSU, 750w is overkill and the Corsair CXs aren't the best quality - You would be better off going for a lower WATTAGE unit ~550-650w from either a higher Corsair range or another brand such as Seasonic of XFX.

Discussion

6243.	Solve : Advice for new build?
Answer» My PC: Budget: $800 Components: CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113284&cm_re=am3_cpu-_-19-113-284-_-Product GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487024&cm_re=gtx_750_ti-_-14-487-024-_-Product Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-128-514 Case: NZXT Source 210 RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104444 PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438010&cm_re=1000_watt_power_supply-_-17-438-010-_-Product HDD: 1TB Western Digital Blue edition 32mb cache Optical Drive: Some old sata one lying around (I don't re-write CD's or watch movies on a disc so it doesn't really matter, and I download all my games of of Origin or Steam) Total: $715.96 Grand Total: $687.97 (No tax, Free shipping, and a 27.99 dollar discount on cpu, mobo, RAM combo)Everything there looks good... only advice I have on this is if you look at the feedback for the AMD FX 8350 CPU some have claimed that the stock CPU cooler may have to be replaced with a better cooler/heatsink. So when you get it up and running, be sure to monitor the temps and be sure that the CPU is not roasting with the stock heatsink... other info i have heard about the stock heatsink is that they seem to install hard as if they are out of spec... i have been keeping an eye on this CPU for over a year now and peoples feedback on this CPU I have checked on from time to time. At some point I hope to get this CPU, but the hold back right now is that the system I have for gaming with the quadcore is actually plenty, so having this 8 core would be just to have an overkill CPU. Also, I assume you already have an OS for this? Or was this forgotten in the purchase to where you might be over budget if a Windows OS is needed etc.You really need to work on the BALANCE between your power supply and other components, 1000w is ridiculously overkill for any single GPU system, to put it in perspective a 750ti based PC is happy with a 300w PSU. Not only does an overspecced power supply cost money, it will also run inefficiently and waste power (A PSU works best at over 20% load, your system won't come CLOSE to that). You should drop the power supply you have down to a decent 550w-650w unit (Something from XFX would be a good choice) and use the money you save to get a better video card like a GeForce 760 (The 750ti is a pretty basic card). I would also recommend moving to an Intel Core i5 based system as this will generally be better in most situations, especially gaming. Also look into an SSD, possibly at a later date.

Discussion

6244.	Solve : Want to upgrade CPU and RAM - need help?
Answer» Hey guys! I want to upgrade my COMPUTER and I could use some help... I BASICALLY want to upgrade two things: 1. RAM - I'm not sure about compatability ISSUES, so if you could suggest a RAM fitting for my computer, I'd appreciate it. You'll find the info in the attachment. 2. Processor - here I have no clue, either :-) So, maybe you could just suggest a good processor to me that is compatible with my other elements (see attachments), thx. [attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]We'd need to know what MBoard this is ...you can travel to crucial.com and run the online SCANNER to see how much more RAM the PC will take... As to CPU upgrades again it depends on the board...but i think your choices in that series will be LIMITED at best.

Discussion

6245.	Solve : Booted my pc without CPU?
Answer» Ok, so I RECENTLY got all my parts to build my COMPUTER except the cpu, so I decided to build it anyway before the cpu got here... But, before I had finished the build I tried to boot my pc to TEST ( I only had the ram, motherboard, psu, fan case, hdd and optical drive.) the the power button flashing , the case fan was working. After I placed the graphic card and the wireless card I tried to boot it again and I got the same results...After I place the cpu power CABLE I tried to boot it again but it didn't work... I'm worried that I may have damaged something in the process.. Is there any chance that this may have happened? Or it just didn't boot because I didn't have the cpu in place? Please Help ! I´m really sad , the componentes are all new A PC will not do anything without a CPU installed...My pc has turned on .... I only want to now if didin´t damaged anything I can't think of anything getting damaged but in the future TAKE more care rather than just guessing and turning things on.Yes I know that was a stupid thing :$ , You really think that didn't damaged anything even if before the pc was starting and after connecting CPU power cable ( Without CPU installed ) won't turn on ?I was thinking you would tell us - the thing started to work - without the CPU, but was very slow. That question has come up before, the OP is not the first. If I power a motherboard without CPU/RAM... basically what I meant is that I turned on the pc to test the components making the CPU , which was going well until I connected the CPU power cable and the pc after that did absolutely nothing , before putting the CPU power cable had connected showing rotating the fans . I hope can anyone help me , I am really worried about my pc componentes . I want to know if is anything damaged or not ? ;( As I have said, I doubt anything is damaged however the only way to tell for sure is to try the CPU when you get it.ok thanks , I will get My cpu by monday , if U dont mind and if I have any problem I can message u ? No... We keep all Help in the Forums...for obvious reasons...

Discussion

6246.	Solve : Log on Removal?
Answer» When I BOUGHT my Wi.8 laptop it asked that i put in a 4 digit code to LOG in and open. Since I am the only USER i don`t want this and want to REMOVE this step to speed up my log in. I`ve gone to PC settings and while I can change the details of the log in code I can`t remove this unwanted operation. Any THOUGHTS?

Discussion

6247.	Solve : advice on my new build??
Answer» Hi just wanted some ADVICE on my pc build because I am new to it all. Just a few things i should point out which you might think are a bit strange, 1) I know the h105 is overkill cooling for this CPU but it looks so much tidier and BETTER than a fan cooler which is why i've chosen it. 2) I don't think you get as much for your money with intel which is why i've gone for AMD, and i've heard very good things about this particular AMD CPU. Constructive feedback would be nice, especially about the graphics card, i'm not sure how good it is? Also if there's any obvious bottlenecks in this build? Thanks... http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/gMGdMpSome questions: Are you planning on overclocking? What is the heaviest resource game you plan on running on this and at max settings? --------------------------------------------- As far as the build goes, it all looks good. The video card should be plenty. I generally build AMD's myself vs Intel's. With using a Western Digital drive though, I'd save your important data backed up to another drive. Just saying this because I have had a few bad experiences with Western Digital drive problems. The good thing with your build is that if later you need more processing power you can upgrade to an 8-core such as the AMD FX-8350. I have a newer build with a socket AM3+ motherboard and the cool thing is that I was able to place my Athlon II x4 620 2600Mhz socket AM3 CPU into it from my prior GAMING system, and place a $10 dualcore into my old socket AM2+ gaming system, until I get a 8-core which i plan on getting when i have $170 to spend or a better deal on one. This then will allow me to place the quad core BACK into the old gaming system and retire the used Athlon x2 4450B which i have overclocked to 2.53Ghz from a normal 2300Mhz clock. Surprisingly that $10 ebay purchase for the dual core is able to play all the games I throw at it really well, although Skyrim is probably the most complex resource heavy game I have with World of Warcraft being the most frequently played game. Thanks man for replying! Yes i do plan on doing a bit of overclocking i think, once i've learned how to haha, and for your second question, probably something like far cry 3, i don't know i enjoyed that game on the xbox 360... I look forward to RAINBOW 6 siege too that looks mint! hope that helps?

Discussion

6248.	Solve : PSU is good but computer is dead.?
Answer» There is completely no response to pressing the power button. The 300W PSU is good because I tested it, and I replaced it with a 400W. That didn't make any difference. The machine is a Gateway DX4380G-UW08 running Win 8.1 x64. It came with 6GB of RAM but I expanded it to 16GB. Now I'm going to take out the new RAM and return it to 6GB. This computer is a little over a year old. I had to send it back to GATEWAY after the first few months because the HD would not boot. They ended up REPLACING the CPU, motherboard, and HD. Now it has died again. I am used to computers lasting several years without major problems. I bought this comp because I had faith in ACER but that has changed. I don't want it to be a money pit. Should I replace the motherboard, etc., or just buy a new one? Any help to get it running again would be much appreciated.Well some ways to diagnose stuff like this is to remove all but one RAM sticks and graphics cards (Only remove graphics card if your CPU has a built in one) and any other hardware that may be plugged into your PCI slots like network cards. I think this is a motherboard issue but we can't be 100% sure on that because it only takes 1 thing to break and it stops the system from turning on. to protect everything else. also if you have any other info about your PC it will help us diagnose your problem. PS: Check the warranty and see if you can just send it away again.What other information would you like? It is AMD Fusion A6-5400k 3.6 GHz Dual core with 1MB of cache. AMD A75 chipset. The graphics and network (ethernet) are integrated. The only card is a wireless network card and I removed it to test. I also disconnected all periphs and drives to test. Nothing working. I imagine I'll have to replace the MB first and see if that helps. If not, I'll have to replace the processor. Do you think it could be a faulty power switch? How can I test these elements without replacing them? How can I test the motherboard and CPU to make sure they are operational?If there is no response to the power button my first guess would be the power supply. I'd contact Gateway again since you've already had major issues with it.Have you moved this Unit recently ? ? Possible one of the front header wires is loose...The PSU is working. I tested the original 300 and the new 400 I just bought (using paper clip test) while not connected and their fans worked. I took the front panels off and inspected the connections and wires. They look okay.The paper clip test does not mean the PSU is working properly...swap another one in there and we'll go from there. Quote from: harrisol on September 18, 2014, 05:44:41 AM What other information would you like? It is AMD Fusion A6-5400k 3.6 GHz Dual core with 1MB of cache. AMD A75 chipset. The graphics and network (ethernet) are integrated. The only card is a wireless network card and I removed it to test. I also disconnected all periphs and drives to test. Nothing working. I imagine I'll have to replace the MB first and see if that helps. If not, I'll have to replace the processor. Do you think it could be a faulty power switch? How can I test these elements without replacing them? How can I test the motherboard and CPU to make sure they are operational? As you have disconnected two serparate power supplies and successfully powered them up, I would have to take a faulty power switch as a serious possibility. The other two possiblities are either: A ground fault - a live contact or conductor has come into contact with an earthed conductor (usually the case itself), PSU's often have safety precautions as not to power up under these conditions. Motherboard has serious damage, severing current pathways - Only applicable if you have thrown the mobo around the room or have TRIED standing on it. As bypassing the power switch takes all of 30 seconds I would definatly try it. To do so unplug the power switch from the motherboard front pannel connector and short the two pins labled PWR_SWT together. I have no idea what the power is across these pins so make sure that you are insulated from it. I.e. use a screw driver with insulated handle. If that still does not work I would try a bench test to reduce the possibility of earth faults. This morning I tried bypassing the power switch by shorting the two pins and nothing happened. At this point I'm probably going to buy a new motherboard. This would be the second MB to die in the first 16 months since I bought it. My main guess is that it might be overheating. It didn't come with an internal fan besides the CPU and PSU (which was weak). The original PSU was 300W and the original 6GB RAM was expanded to 16 GB. I just hope it is the MB. A few months after I bought it, it failed and I had to send it in to have the MB, CPU, and HD replaced. I haven't found too many options for purchasing the ACER AAHD3-VC motherboard. Can I use a different board? Would there be a manufacturer that made the exact same board? How can I find a board that will work?Look up the CPU if your re-using it...then search for supporting MBoards... There are plenty out there. You may wanna seriously consider a new build...if the CPU is 4 years or older.I bought it in April of 2014 so I'm not HAPPY. Does anyone have a SUGGESTION for a board that would work well with a the above specs and a 400W PSU? Quote from: harrisol on September 18, 2014, 06:59:46 PM I bought it in April of 2014 so I'm not happy. Does anyone have a suggestion for a board that would work well with a the above specs and a 400W PSU? Return for warranty repair at their expense. Many states have Lemon Laws, see if yours does.Sorry. I meant I bought it in April of 2013. I already sent it back on warranty once but it has since gone off warranty. Gateway's SUPPORT is not very helpful.

6248.

Solve : PSU is good but computer is dead.?

Answer»

There is completely no response to pressing the power button. The 300W PSU is good because I tested it, and I replaced it with a 400W. That didn't make any difference. The machine is a Gateway DX4380G-UW08 running Win 8.1 x64. It came with 6GB of RAM but I expanded it to 16GB. Now I'm going to take out the new RAM and return it to 6GB. This computer is a little over a year old. I had to send it back to GATEWAY after the first few months because the HD would not boot. They ended up REPLACING the CPU, motherboard, and HD. Now it has died again. I am used to computers lasting several years without major problems. I bought this comp because I had faith in ACER but that has changed. I don't want it to be a money pit. Should I replace the motherboard, etc., or just buy a new one?

Any help to get it running again would be much appreciated.Well some ways to diagnose stuff like this is to remove all but one RAM sticks and graphics cards (Only remove graphics card if your CPU has a built in one) and any other hardware that may be plugged into your PCI slots like network cards.

I think this is a motherboard issue but we can't be 100% sure on that because it only takes 1 thing to break and it stops the system from turning on. to protect everything else.

also if you have any other info about your PC it will help us diagnose your problem.

PS: Check the warranty and see if you can just send it away again.What other information would you like? It is AMD Fusion A6-5400k 3.6 GHz Dual core with 1MB of cache. AMD A75 chipset. The graphics and network (ethernet) are integrated. The only card is a wireless network card and I removed it to test. I also disconnected all periphs and drives to test. Nothing working. I imagine I'll have to replace the MB first and see if that helps. If not, I'll have to replace the processor. Do you think it could be a faulty power switch? How can I test these elements without replacing them? How can I test the motherboard and CPU to make sure they are operational?If there is no response to the power button my first guess would be the power supply. I'd contact Gateway again since you've already had major issues with it.Have you moved this Unit recently ? ?
Possible one of the front header wires is loose...The PSU is working. I tested the original 300 and the new 400 I just bought (using paper clip test) while not connected and their fans worked. I took the front panels off and inspected the connections and wires. They look okay.The paper clip test does not mean the PSU is working properly...swap another one in there and we'll go from there. Quote from: harrisol on September 18, 2014, 05:44:41 AM

What other information would you like? It is AMD Fusion A6-5400k 3.6 GHz Dual core with 1MB of cache. AMD A75 chipset. The graphics and network (ethernet) are integrated. The only card is a wireless network card and I removed it to test. I also disconnected all periphs and drives to test. Nothing working. I imagine I'll have to replace the MB first and see if that helps. If not, I'll have to replace the processor. Do you think it could be a faulty power switch? How can I test these elements without replacing them? How can I test the motherboard and CPU to make sure they are operational?

As you have disconnected two serparate power supplies and successfully powered them up, I would have to take a faulty power switch as a serious possibility. The other two possiblities are either:

A ground fault - a live contact or conductor has come into contact with an earthed conductor (usually the case itself), PSU's often have safety precautions as not to power up under these conditions.

Motherboard has serious damage, severing current pathways - Only applicable if you have thrown the mobo around the room or have TRIED standing on it.

As bypassing the power switch takes all of 30 seconds I would definatly try it. To do so unplug the power switch from the motherboard front pannel connector and short the two pins labled PWR_SWT together. I have no idea what the power is across these pins so make sure that you are insulated from it. I.e. use a screw driver with insulated handle.

If that still does not work I would try a bench test to reduce the possibility of earth faults.
This morning I tried bypassing the power switch by shorting the two pins and nothing happened. At this point I'm probably going to buy a new motherboard. This would be the second MB to die in the first 16 months since I bought it. My main guess is that it might be overheating. It didn't come with an internal fan besides the CPU and PSU (which was weak). The original PSU was 300W and the original 6GB RAM was expanded to 16 GB.

I just hope it is the MB. A few months after I bought it, it failed and I had to send it in to have the MB, CPU, and HD replaced.

I haven't found too many options for purchasing the ACER AAHD3-VC motherboard. Can I use a different board? Would there be a manufacturer that made the exact same board? How can I find a board that will work?Look up the CPU if your re-using it...then search for supporting MBoards...
There are plenty out there.
You may wanna seriously consider a new build...if the CPU is 4 years or older.I bought it in April of 2014 so I'm not HAPPY. Does anyone have a SUGGESTION for a board that would work well with a the above specs and a 400W PSU? Quote from: harrisol on September 18, 2014, 06:59:46 PM

I bought it in April of 2014 so I'm not happy. Does anyone have a suggestion for a board that would work well with a the above specs and a 400W PSU?

Return for warranty repair at their expense. Many states have Lemon Laws, see if yours does.Sorry. I meant I bought it in April of 2013. I already sent it back on warranty once but it has since gone off warranty. Gateway's SUPPORT is not very helpful.

Discussion

6249.	Solve : Replacing my broken but only hard drive??
Answer» I have an old desktop computer who ran windows xp. The computer had only one 250GB HDD hard DRIVE and I didn't divide at all, there was only a C drive. A few days ago the computer kept rebooting, and the reason of its failing should be due to the hard drive after me running a few test researched on the internet. So I took out the failing hard drive and plugged in a new 1TB hard drive. I wanted to use Windows 7 this time so I burnt a Windows 7 DVD through the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool. And I did the process of changing the 1st booting priority to the DVD drive in the BIOS. But after putting in the DVD I still got the message of "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key". Did I do anything wrong? What shall I do to use the new hard drive? Thanks a lot. p.s. I didn't have the original windows xp disk, and I PREFER to use Windows 7 this timeI would suspect something is amiss with the newly burned Win 7 disk. Does the disk boot on another machine?I tried and it worked. Or should I put in something like recovery disk but not a brand new windows installation disk? Or should I put in a win xp disk instead?General Reference: Quote Creating a Windows 7 flash drive installer on a Windows computer From the Microsoft Store, download and install the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool. From the Start menu, open the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool Setup Wizard. When prompted, browse to your .iso file, select it, and click Nore: the above assumes you have a working windows computer and a USB flash stick. Hi so I have tried to burn both 32 bit and 64 bit of windows 7 but both of them didn't work and stuck in the "Hardware Monitor" page. I didn't have my win xp disk so I have downloaded different types of windows xp on the internet and put them into a usb drive by rufus. I have entered the setup page but they all show up "Setup cannot find the End-User License Agreement (EULA). Setup will not continue." What should I do?Your old desktop computer probably doesn't have a DVD burner, only a CD burner. Windows XP is not available as a download. You need a valid Product ID for any copy of Windows.Recent versions of Windows lets a user install and run windows for a limited time without activation of the product. This allows time to either repair the hardware or decide not to purchase the software. But using a not legal copy of Windows or a BOGUS key is a violation of the law. Download Windows only from the official download site. This link prov ids some helpful information. http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windows7/f/download-windows-7.htm Which agrees with the official MS: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows/downloads I downloaded Win 7 on the official website and I used my laptop to burn the DVD, I tried to run those on my laptop and they were fine. Now I am suspecting my desktop doesn't satisfy the requirement of running Win 7. (it was a Core 2 duo computer built by my frd in 2008) So am I run out of "free" METHOD to fix my computer? Is Linux free? I am a poor student who can't spent like $50 for an older operation system because I already spent $50 for a new hard drive, which was a lot for me. I apologize if I did sth wrong. Use one of the small Linux packages to see if the computer WORKS. One such is 'Puppy Linus' which requires no hard drive space. It can run is memory after booting from a CD. http://www.puppylinux.com/ I have often used it to verify an old computer works when the hard drive is bad. It can do Internet with an Ethernet or can find some of the Wi-Fi adapters. I has a nice desktop using just VGA quality. It can mount t a readable drive. It can save data to a USB stick. Sorry for the late reply, I was dealing with some personal problems. I put the puppy linux into a flash drive and I still stuck at this page (I found this pic on the internet, but pretty much the same).

6249.

Solve : Replacing my broken but only hard drive??

Answer»

I have an old desktop computer who ran windows xp. The computer had only one 250GB HDD hard DRIVE and I didn't divide at all, there was only a C drive. A few days ago the computer kept rebooting, and the reason of its failing should be due to the hard drive after me running a few test researched on the internet.

So I took out the failing hard drive and plugged in a new 1TB hard drive. I wanted to use Windows 7 this time so I burnt a Windows 7 DVD through the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool. And I did the process of changing the 1st booting priority to the DVD drive in the BIOS.

But after putting in the DVD I still got the message of "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key". Did I do anything wrong? What shall I do to use the new hard drive? Thanks a lot.

p.s. I didn't have the original windows xp disk, and I PREFER to use Windows 7 this timeI would suspect something is amiss with the newly burned Win 7 disk. Does the disk boot on another machine?I tried and it worked. Or should I put in something like recovery disk but not a brand new windows installation disk?
Or should I put in a win xp disk instead?General Reference:
Quote

Creating a Windows 7 flash drive installer on a Windows computer

From the Microsoft Store, download and install the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool.
From the Start menu, open the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool Setup Wizard.
When prompted, browse to your .iso file, select it, and click

Nore: the above assumes you have a working windows computer and a USB flash stick.
Hi so I have tried to burn both 32 bit and 64 bit of windows 7 but both of them didn't work and stuck in the "Hardware Monitor" page.

I didn't have my win xp disk so I have downloaded different types of windows xp on the internet and put them into a usb drive by rufus. I have entered the setup page but they all show up "Setup cannot find the End-User License Agreement (EULA). Setup will not continue." What should I do?Your old desktop computer probably doesn't have a DVD burner, only a CD burner.
Windows XP is not available as a download.
You need a valid Product ID for any copy of Windows.Recent versions of Windows lets a user install and run windows for a limited time without activation of the product. This allows time to either repair the hardware or decide not to purchase the software.
But using a not legal copy of Windows or a BOGUS key is a violation of the law.
Download Windows only from the official download site.
This link prov ids some helpful information.
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windows7/f/download-windows-7.htm
Which agrees with the official MS:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows/downloads

I downloaded Win 7 on the official website and I used my laptop to burn the DVD, I tried to run those on my laptop and they were fine. Now I am suspecting my desktop doesn't satisfy the requirement of running Win 7. (it was a Core 2 duo computer built by my frd in 2008)

So am I run out of "free" METHOD to fix my computer? Is Linux free? I am a poor student who can't spent like $50 for an older operation system because I already spent $50 for a new hard drive, which was a lot for me. I apologize if I did sth wrong. Use one of the small Linux packages to see if the computer WORKS.
One such is 'Puppy Linus' which requires no hard drive space. It can run is memory after booting from a CD.
http://www.puppylinux.com/
I have often used it to verify an old computer works when the hard drive is bad.
It can do Internet with an Ethernet or can find some of the Wi-Fi adapters. I has a nice desktop using just VGA quality. It can mount t a readable drive. It can save data to a USB stick.

Sorry for the late reply, I was dealing with some personal problems. I put the puppy linux into a flash drive and I still stuck at this page (I found this pic on the internet, but pretty much the same).

Discussion

6250.	Solve : Computer Randomly Shuts Off or Freezes?
Answer» Ok here's the build ASUStek Crosshair V Formula-Z Mobo ASUS AMD Radeon HD 7770 2 gigahertz GPU AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 8 Core 3.6 GHZ CPU 16 GB DDR3 DUAL Channel ram PNY Electronics 850 WATT Power Supply not sure what manufacturer Windows 8.1 Operating System I use Windows Defender, Malwarebytes, and SUPERAntiSpyware Anyway the problem is this, My computer randomly either freezes or shuts down. It has frozen while even on the BIOS. I've used CPUID and HWMonitor to check TEMPERATURES. I've checked in the event log to see what happened. All it says is that it shut down. It's a 2 year old build. Not sure exactly what other information is needed to help identify the problem. The usual thing is to suspect the PSU (Power Supply Unit.). Even a very good PSU may be susceptible to sudden shutoff. So using a spare PSU is the normal way to test fort this kind of problem. Otherwise, it is very time-consuming to try and pin point the specific cause. If the spare PSU does not eliminate the problem: Use a different wall plug, even on a different circuit. Remove the DVD and see if the problem clears up. Remove the hard and run it with Linux 'Live' CD.. Replace all RAM sticks with one spare RAM. Replace the graphics card. Of curse, the last thing is the motherboard. Rare, but faulty electrical system can do this.I wish I had extras but the only extra I do have is a power supply so I'll try that

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