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I started using this MONITOR as my 2nd screen about a MONTH ago, and as of late "streaks" are appearing in the bottom part of the screen. I have absolutely no clue why they are appearing, it seems to "reflect" some other part of the screen in those "streaks" (as in the picture). Anyone has any experience, or insight as of why more and more streaks are JOING the club?

PC:
Laptop Acer aspire v3-571G, the dual monitor is a HP L2045w (using VGA)

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Hello, and thanks for helping.
Im building a pc with an ssd as the os drive. Done heaps of reading and googling and have seen mention that data corruption can be more of an issue if theres a sudden power loss with a ssd than a mechanical hard drive.

I know that data corruption is always a possibility, and yes im paranoid about backups.

My question in a nutshell is, is it more essential to use a ups with a ssd than a conventional hard drive?

Thanks  Quote from: licoriceallsorts on October 11, 2014, 08:03:52 PM

My question in a nutshell is, is it more essential to use a ups with a ssd than a conventional hard drive?

Almost all of these myths about SSDs are either total nonsense or only apply to very early SSDs. With a decent modern drive you won't have any of these issues.

Power-Loss Protection:  In the rare event that power fails while the drive is operating, power-loss protection helps ensure that data isn’t corrupted. To supplement our power-sensing firmware protection, our SSD engineers designed physical power reserves (capacitors) that are specifically tailored to our NAND requirements and deliver ENOUGH power to ensure data remains intact. 

Don't use affiliate links for your Sig...i removed it.

...I myself have 1 UPS tucked under entertainment system to keep the TV, Broadband Modem, Wireless Router, and Vonage Phone System operational during a power outage, as well as I have a UPS at each of the 3 desktop systems in my home and a spare that is powered as an extra battery to have a portable 120VAC source for an extended outage to unplug and plug a lamp into etc if the outage is at night etc. (* I removed the piezo speaker from it so it doesnt beep and drive you nuts...LOL    )

hp pavilion g6-2216nr
Windows 8 64bit
Webcam built in above monitor
Webcam will not turn on and pretty sure it is not being recognized
went to hp site, cant detect problem and offers no working help
also only webcam driver i can find is Cyberlink Webcam Virtual Driver
webcam just wasnt working one DAY, not sure if after update or not
scan for HARDWARE changes does nothing
You need to visit the laptop manuf. site for the proper drivers...visited manufacturers website, downloaded youcam which was found in the drivers section for this laptop, and was the only SOFTWARE pertaining to a webcam, started the software and it opened and said, "connect webcam or turn on webcam" Im not sure you can turn it on. Im not sure what the problem is but I can see that at least hundreds have had the same problem on other forums with no answer found yet

Hello everyone! This all started maybe a month, to two months ago. Randomly, my computer started getting a blue screen with the following written: "PFN_List_Corrupt". At first I thought it was a harddrive issue, so i ordered a new one on warranty.It kind of worked at first, but right away I could already see it didn't fix the problem. Now, from my knowledge it isn't a Windows problem. I think i know this because i ran a driver verifier and un-selected all drivers that had to do with windows, and it still crashed. It also doesn't let me download certain files, for example : Libreoffice, League of Legends, World of Warcraft, Microsoft Office, Visual Studio, Visio, and even at first it wouldn't allow me to download certain drivers (I have no clue on how I got them to download). When I do try downloading these certain PROGRAMS, it gives me errors such as: Corrupt files, missing files, unable to transfer files, unable to find installer(something along the lines of that), and multiple other errors that I cannot remember off the top of my head. Even when I downloaded Windows 7 on this new harddrive, it had issues. I've re downloaded the OS about 5 times now, and each time it still has the problems. So, to my knowledge, I don't think it's a problem with the harddrive, or the OS, which leaves me absolutely stumped! Here are my PC specs:
CPU: AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 965 Processor
Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. 970A-D3
BIOS: BIOS Date: 01/21/13 21:20:14 Ver: 04.06.05
Total Memory: 8.00 GB
HDD: WDC WD1002FAEX-00Y9A0 ATA Device
Sound Card: (1) AMD High Definition Audio Device   (2) VIA High Definition Audio   
Graphics Card: AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional  64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free

Any help would be greatly apreciatedHi

What is the make and model of power supply in your build ?

That error seems to be memory corruption, that's NOT faulty memory it's that the data in memory is becoming corrupt also maybe why you can't download those files.

An overloaded or noisy power supply can cause memory corruption.

Hence why knowing what power supply might help.

 Sorry that i forgot to include that . I believe my power supply is this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095 . And it might be a problem with the memory, but i did run a memory check and it didn't find any problems. THANK you for responding though and any more feedback is greatly appreciated!Try downloading Speccy and then install the program.  To post and publish a snapshot of your PC.
. In the Menu bar, CLICK File -> Publish Snapshot
. Click Yes > then Copy to Clipboard
. On your next REPLY, right-click on a empty space and click Paste on reply box then click Post.

Download MiniToolBox and run the program. Select
List Last 10 Event Viewers, List Installed Programs and List Users, Partitions and Memory Size then click Go.
A notepad will open then copy-paste the report on your next reply.

I have spent time making sure the components are all compatible but I am not too sure of the motherboard. I am not skilled with HARDWARE and am asking for someone to take a look ( http://pcpartpicker.com/user/lord_wolfjr2/saved/JdCCmG ) and either DOUBLE check that I have not MISSED any issues or be able to tell me what is wrong with a component. 
Thank you. A suggestion. Many retailers cater to the DIY people. Often they have lists already made of what works good. Did you already check any of those web sites?
Example:
http://www.newegg.com/DIY-PC-Combos/PromotionStore/ID-33
OR
http://build-your-own-computer.org/
Just saying... 
That looks fine, the only change I would make would be to get a better power supply from a TRUSTED brand such as XFX, Seasonic, Corsair (Non CX/VS series).etc.  550w is enough though.

Something like this would be ideal:
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1550gts3x
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1550sxxb9

Quote from: Geek-9pm on October 21, 2014, 01:31:37 PM

A suggestion. Many retailers cater to the DIY people. Often they have lists already made of what works good. Did you already check any of those web sites?
Example:
http://www.newegg.com/DIY-PC-Combos/PromotionStore/ID-33
OR
http://build-your-own-computer.org/
Just saying... 

Hello everyone.  I'm a newbie to the FORUM, and I'm hoping someone could help me out.  I have an old (but expensive) medical equipment that has parallel output that is connected to a 14yr old laptop with a parallel input.  The laptop is on its last leg, so I need to find another solution that could connect to the medical equipment.  I have a Windows 7 professional PC I would like to use.  What do I need to buy, and how do I configure it so I can connect the equipment, take measurements, and then have the data be saved to a directory in my Windows 7 PC.  Any guidance would be GREATLY appreciated.Hi

You can still purchase PCI parallel port cards for your windows 7 computer . Or some motherboards have parallel plugs to take a CABLE that CONNECTS to a parallel port. The concern for me is whether the software will run on windows 7 ? . Windows 7 doesn't allow programs to access the hardware directly as i suspect your software may.
You should be able to get another laptop or desktop that supports the windows version and program with a parallel port . Instead of trying to get it running on the windows 7 computer.


Allow me to take exception to the idea of buying an adapter to fit into your PC.
I would recommend getting a replacement for your old computer. You should be able to find a used to model that has been reconditioned or serviced and comes with a limited warranty. That way you will not have to make any adjustments are changes and you can continue to use the medical equipment, the same way you always have.
What is the model number of your old laptop?



Is the Win7 PC a laptop or desktop?

Hello everyone, I need HELP ASAP because this issue is singlehandedly ruining my life.

My computer desktop is not turning on. When I hit the POWER button, nothing at all happens. However, there is a green light on the side of my desktop, which I think shows that the computer still has some power. I've tried many unplugging/pushing power button combinations and nothing has happened. Please help me!

P.S.- I'm not sure if this is in the right section or not!Unplug the computer and with power unplugged push the power button. This will drain the power supply and cause it to RESET if its a hung soft power state. Now plug computer BACK in and try to turn it on.

If it still doesnt power up, then REPLACE the power supply.

Any other information as to if this was all of a sudden or anything lead to this failure?

no ways explained in the internet helps
What MODEL drive is this?

Some have a write protect switch that allows for you to enable/disable write protection. If this drive was one that you got for free with demo software etc on it or one that came from a computer manufacturer with system recovery software on it, then it may be a 1 time write device.

I have SEEN people get the USB sticks at CONVENTIONS with no intent to use the info that is on them, they then get home and try to format the flash stick and to their SURPRISE it can not be formatted and files cant be deleted from it.

If its a flash stick that all of a sudden write protected itself and its not one with write protection switch feature, then the stick is likely damaged and I would copy the data off of it to hard drive etc since it still may read fine, but UNABLE to write to this device because of a failure.

Greetings.

I have a Macbook (not sure what type or year, probably 2009, maybe 2008) that has a severely damaged screen.  It is cracked in several places and is completely unusable.  It would cost hundreds of dollars to get it replaced, so I would like to hook it up to another monitor and use it that way.  I've seen some things about Clamshell Mode, but it seems you have to have a working screen to get it into clamshell mode.  How can I use it if the screen won't work at all?

BTW, in case you couldn't tell, I am completely computer illiterate, so if you think you need to explain a term or procedure, please do.What model Macbook is this?.... if you have a VGA, DVI, or HDMI port you could connect it to a monitor or TV if HDMI ready and use it that way.

If there is no display output feature to this laptop then you might get lucky with one of those USB VGA adapters, but I am not sure if a functional display is needed to get that working with driver installation.

If the USB VGA adapter needed a software install to function and you had a second MAC computer available, you could document step by step how to get it working on the  trouble free laptop and then follow these steps on the one without a functional display, and if all steps are followed exactly get it to work. However instead of pointing and clicking on selections you will have to use all keyboard controls to navigate to pull this off.

One trick to get mouse controls to work would be to create a keyboard/video macro that goes through all the installation steps and through automated process installs the video driver for the USB VGA adapter, but this requires special software + a second Mac with same screen resolution setting for x/y mouse coordinates to line up perfect etc.

Chances are the USB VGA may be plug n play and so it might automatically install the proper driver and operate, but if its not then it will need drivers installed etc.

Adapter below requires Mac 10.6 or 10.7 to work, and i have NEVER used this brand before to report whether its good or bad, however my experience with these adapters are that they are fine for word processing and surfing the web, but videos and video games struggle with these because they are not very powerful in GPU processing power. So if you looking to be able to get back to surfing and typing up documents/email etc it will be fine, but anything that requires a powerful GPU to pull off these are pretty bad at.

Here is a USB VGA adapter:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812866007&cm_re=usb_vga_adapter-_-12-866-007-_-Product


There is a better USB DVI adapter here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158325&cm_re=StarTech_USB32DVIPRO-_-15-158-325-_-Product

According to this review from a Macbook Air user:


Quote

Pros:

Probably OKAY for Mac OSX 10.8 or earlier
Cons:

I have a Macbook Air, and use the built-in display and an external 1920 x 1080 display connected by Apple's Thunderbolt-to-VGA adapter. I purchased this unit to connect a second 1920 x 1080. I installed the software, plugged it in, and it worked. The first thing I noticed, though, was that the new monitor appeared in the display preferences as a second built-in display. SINCE I could resize and rearrange it, that didn't bother me too much. Then I noticed that moving windows around the screen was very jittery. I figured that for $35 I should live with that. Then I put the computer to sleep. When I woke it up, the display was garbage and didn't fill the whole screen. I tried messing with the display preferences, unplugging/replugging the cable, powering down/up the monitor, but the only way I could get the screen back was to reboot the Mac. I soon discovered that it wasn't just sleep mode that caused this problem, disconnect the display and reconnecting it did the same thing. Frustrated, I created a support ticket with j5create. They said this was a known issue and they had a new driver coming out in a week. Two weeks later I contacted them again (they didn't contact me) about the driver, and they said they were still working on it, and they weren't sure when it would be ready. I told them that my Newegg return policy expired after 30 days and that I could only hold onto the product if they'd give me an extension of the return time themselves. They didn't even answer. Finally, as the deadline approached I returned the product to Newegg (which, of course, treated me like their best customer).
Other THOUGHTS:

I replaced this with a StarTech USB32DVIPRO. That unit cost twice as much as the j5create. I installed the software for the StarTech unit, plugged it in, and it has been perfect. Fast, works properly in the display preferences, smooth operation. I'd called ahead to check on the appropriate model for Mavericks and they went through this situation with me in detail and helped me choose the best product from their portfolio. The exact opposite experience from j5Create.

I am replacing the laptop LCD on a friends TOSHIBA +A215-s7444
model # psafgu-02L002  15.4" screen and
I would like to know if EITHER an  hp dv6000  15.4 or  a Toshiba A135-s7404 15.4 will work in this laptop?
I would try to find a cross reference. Best location for cross reference is to see if anyone is selling a replacement on ebay or amazon where they may list models that display was specifically used for.

If you look up the 2 DONOR laptops and find that the display is a match between the one requiring the display and the one that is the donor than your really lucky and it should work out well, however if there is a mismatch, you can open them up and see if the ribbon connection is the same and take a risk of damaging the laptop by connecting a mismatched model or getting it to work. Its a gamble with a display never intended for that specific model and not advised to do so.

Its very unlikely that taking a display of similar size from 2 other mismatched models would work with the one requiring a display. You pretty much need to find what model computers that specific display was used in and then get one of those displays that was known to be used for that model. Also in some rare instances displays changed mid-run of the model and you may find that the laptop has to be a certain model and Rev or a certain model and GPU chipset where there may have been 2 or 3 different chipsets such as nVidia, AMD, or INTEL.

Hey guys.
I recently got myself a GT 640 GPU. The main reason was so that I could plug in a second monitor (because my first GPU, a GT 440, only had one slot). The thing is that my computer won't detect my 640. A guess was that it's because they're not from the same series, but I always have a hard time wrapping my head around the cards having to be the same.
Another search led me to believe that I NEED to connect them together with an SLI bridge. The thing is that I can't find somewhere to connect it in either graphics cards.
I've tried to reset my CMOS, but that didn't help.

Specs:
<300 W Power supply
1 TB Hard drive
125 GB Hard drive
Nvidia GT 440
Nvidia GT 640
4 GB RAM

Thanks beforehand.Which MBoard is this ? ?
That also MAKES a difference...Why are you using both cards together?  Take the 440 out and connect both your MONITORS to the 640.

sir i have a intel pentium 4 3.06GHz  ati-radeon-x300-x550-x1050-series
and LASTLY a daewoo lucoms CT7610 motherboard.... which components of my computer shud i upgrade 1st to a cheap gaming computer..THANKS i want to ugrade my computer to a cheap gaming pc. What must i do FIRST?  
MY EMAIL->>>> --------------

EMail Addy removed to prevent SPAM.It really depends how much you can spend.  Your current PC looks far too old to be worth spending any money on so your only real option is to completely build a new one from scratch - Other than the case which isn't really worth anything I can't see anything in your current PC that could be reused in something new.When talking about cheap, real cheap, there is almost no advantage in  using components. And gaming PCs have to be  above t average performers. So,m it can't be done. If you have just a little money, GO BUY a used XBOX. A working unit is about $80 or so. You can't build anything for that money. Quote from: Geek-9pm on June 08, 2014, 09:53:09 AM

When talking about cheap, real cheap, there is almost no advantage in  using components.

If however you just want to play WoW or LoL at decent settings, we could pretty easily get you there for a few hundred dollars.

i have a intel pentium 4 3.06GHz  ati-radeon-x300-x550-x1050-series
and lastly a daewoo lucoms CT7610 motherboard

Sure lets think about building an economical gaming PC.

Lets start with what you want to play and at how high a graphics setting?

If you wanna play the newest FPS at ultimate, it won't happen.  If however you just want to play WoW or LoL at decent settings, we could pretty easily get you there for a few hundred dollars.

Inputs from you:
Budget
Performance Requirements

-Mal

Geek I am impressed with your STATEMENT to use a 7805, he can also use a 7812 to get his 12V, but will definately need to HEAT sink it. HD will pull some good power. Personally, I'd just go with a BARE enclosure and already provided PSU. I have never had an issue with the PSU's that come with external HD kits.I just got my old power supply that had idee power and sata power and rigged a switch to the  pins 15 and 16 on the 24-pin ATX motherboard power connector to turn power on and off and i can power ide or sata drives and turn the thing on and off. HuHH ? ?

The Topic is over 3 years old...

I have a client who needs their MACBOOK Mid-2007 CPU fan replaced. It is very noisy. I have opened it up and cleaned away excessive dust HOPING something was just lodged in there. However, after putting it all back together, although the loud sound went away for half an HOUR...it came back. It needs to be replaced I believe.

I called local shops in my town, they all get their replacement fans from overseas. None would simply sell me the fan, they wanted to install it too. So, that leaves me to order one offline.

After LOOKING on ebay, there are lots of fans...but my question is which one to get?
As you can see in this auction for EXAMPLE, I see there are 2 types of fans...one has a larger connector than the other...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MacBook-A1181-13-2006-2007-Original-Lufter-Fan-922-7372-922-7887-0Ij-/141447894412?pt=DE_Computer_CPUs_K%C3%BChler_CPU_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item20eef3958c

The Macbook I'm working on has no model number, just a serial number. When I type it in on Apple.com I get this:

~[CUSTOMERNAME],MACBOOK (13-INCH MID 2007)

Can I get any old fan, or will the connector be the decider? Is there anything (i.e fan brand) to watch out for? I don't want a cheap knock-off that will die soon.

Thanks, Greenman.

Ok, all of a sudden, after RESTARTING my Toshiba Qosmio F750, it is asking for a BIOS password. I never set a BIOS/CMOS password, and it won't let me boot into Windows unless I enter it correctly. I have TRIED leaving the CMOS battery out overnight, backdoor passwords, and key combinations.  . I doesn't show any hash/code ect either. And since I am in AUSTRALIA, Toshiba want AU$60 just to speak to them!

Any help?The Toshiba shop is the RIGHT choice as they are the only ones that can do it...

Be prepared to show Proof of Ownership...

Hi, I'm new here so I hope I POSTED this in the right section.
I'm building a custom laptop and I want to know that if I have a 256Gb Msata and a 1Tb hybrid disk drive then will my laptop boot up programs and run as fast as a laptop with an SSD drive?
Much Obliged...There is little point getting a hybrid disk and an mSATA SSD.  I WOULD recommend using the SSD to HOLD your OS and programs then store LARGE files on the SSD.

mSATA SSDs perform pretty much the same as a regular SSD, they are just a different form factor.I see what you're saying and I thank you for your reply but the site on which I'm building this only permits 512/256Gb mSATA SSSD and 1Tb SSHD or 1Tb HDDThat's fine, there's no harm getting a SSHD and an SSD although it's not really worthwhile.  You may just want to go down to the regular 1tb HDD unless the price difference is tiny.But will it affect my SPEED in any way?Not much, you'd be keeping programs and your OS on the SSD so the HDD is only going to hold  your large files.  SSHDs don't really give a massive speed improvement to files, only OS and programs which you won't be storing on it.Ok, thank you soo much. Very grateful to finally be getting a clear answer. Best regards.
*EDIT* I'll properly thank you when I get the Karma!

Dear CH Users

Im having issues with my PC , first i will explain what the issue is and then what i have tried :

Issue

PC turns on , fans spin up - 10 seconds later - power cuts out

OR

PC turns on , fans spin up - pc stays on but no POST beep and no display

What ive tried to resolve the issue

+ Ran Memtest86+ on my RAM - no issues

+ Ran Seagate Seatools on my HDD - no issues

+ Tested PSU with multimeter - all voltages fine - no issues

+ Swapped over graphics card with an old one to test GPU - other GPU just causes a long continuous beep

+ Tried running the PC in barebones ( just PSU + HDD + MOBO + 1 STICK OF 2GB DDR2 ) and STILL doesnt work

+ Checked the motherboard for bloated/broken capacitors - all fine

Im really stuck with what else to try apart from take it to a PC repair shop as i dont have any spare parts to test it with but this PC is almost 5 years old (prebuilt acer) and even though it does work for most the stuff i currently do , i dont feel like putting alot of money down on it to repair it due to it BECOMING "out-of-date" for the want of a better word

Any help is greatly appreciated

Kind Regards

MPIB

SPECS :

INTEL Q8300 QUAD CORE
4GB DDR2 399MHZ
GEFORCE GT230 1.5GB
OS : WINDOWS 7 ULTIMATE X64 SP1 MEDIA REFRESH






Quote from: mypcisbroken on October 28, 2014, 04:49:26 PM

PC turns on , fans spin up - 10 seconds later - power cuts out

When I turn on the 'puter, the fan, then the DVD, then the HDs go on, including the lights on the HDs. However, the monitor says "no signal".  The HDs spin, but don't make the usual noises of the system loading. The puter  has worked fine for 5 years, then I moved it around (physically), reconnected the peripherals, and it behaved as described. I *think* it's the motherboard, but would love to have some confirmation before I go ahead and replace it. Thank you! "No Signal" typically indicates a problem somewhere between the display and the display adapter. Check to make sure the card is seated firmly and the cables are tightly connected.I removed and replaced the video cable, with the connectors looking fine. Ditto for the video card. I also replaced the card with a borrowed one known to work. Still "no signal".  Please note: when I turn on the machine, the red and green lights by the main switch don't go on, and the HDs spin, but don't sound like they go through the routine of a system that boots.

Anything else I can try, to determine if it is the motherboard, or something else? Or could it be something replaceable on the MB, like bios, CPU, or ? What is make/model of computer? Any info on last time it was working if it was experiencing any random issues before failure or was it plugged in during a thunderstorm etc and then now all of a sudden it wont boot etc?

More info needed to avoid guesswork on this... 

If you have a good spare power supply laying around, I would start with swapping that out to see if that is the cause... just an educated guess based on info thus far... Allan already suggested a method to test for video problems... a troubled power supply could allow for the system to start up, but no HDD activity and no display. Sometimes if the system has integrated video as an option, you can connect to the integrated video instead with the added on video card removed and this can ease the load on a troubled power supply that is weak to allow boot, but depending on how weak or damaged a PSU is. The best method is to swap among good parts if available.I agree that the next likely step would be a power supplyI changed the PS, but no dice, it behaved exactly the same WAY.

This is the machine:

    MB: ASUS A7NAX-E
    CPU: Barton Xp2500 overclocked to 180MHz
    MEMORY: 2x1024 MB
    VIDEO CARD: Chaintech FX5200
    Power Supply: Silencer 410 ATX, +3.3V/28A, +5V/32A, +12V/23A, -12V/0.8A, +5Vs/2A   
    WinXp SP3

When I overclocked it, about 8 years ago,  after the usual bumps and grinds mostly with Prime95, I got it to 205 MHz, then backed it down to 180MHz to leave a safety margin. From all I can tell, it has worked fine ever since. I have MBM, which has given no indication of abnormal voltages or any other uncouth item.  I leave it on all the time, except for reboots. Now I turned it off to move it to another room, and when I reassembled it, it behaved as described. No thunderstorms, power surges, or any other event I can think of that may be significant. 

There are two items that I think may be useful to narrow down the location of the problem.
    1.- The green light by the main button does not go on, rather than turning green as soon as the machine has power.
    2.- The red lights of the HDs don't go on, except one red light for a few seconds at the start.

TIA!

Quote

CPU: Barton Xp2500 overclocked to 180MHz

Gateway desktop GT4016, shuts off after awhile, now fan & light turn on for 2 seconds, shuts down.
Replaced: Power supply, motherboard, on/off switch, CPU, bypassed hard drive, optical drive, & memory sticks, still shuts down.
After replacing CPU, it came right on, ran for about 8 hours, shut itself down, played with on/off, eventually got it to power up & work for
another 6 hours, shut down again, now will not turn on.
Before this, substitued line cord, & different outlet.
History on this is I would have to unplug from behind a couple times, maybe more, to GET the power to come on.
The data light would come on, but not the blue light to connect to the hard drive.
I transplanted the hard drive into a similar Gateway, but not compatible, got a blue screen trying to "learn files" but KEPT going round & round.

Anyone think of something I missed?Bring computer to a friends house and power it off their outlet?


 Seen before a home with dirty power causing power supply to wig out in which to reset the system you had to unplug the system, then press the soft power button, and drain the power supply, then plug power supply back in and it resets the hung state and system runs until dirty power condition is met again.

If this is the case, you will want to add a battery backup in line with the computer to condition the power.
It sounds like a faulty motherboard, at least, the same symptoms as mine, which had capacitors faulty on it. You sure of where you got your motherboard?
Has new motherboard, line voltage checked out ok, another pc running good on same outlet for now.

I tested the fan, ok, so not a cooling problem, however the fan used to come on indiscriminatly, so am guessing something is not properly turning on the fan to the heat sink when it gets warm.
I ordered another PCU, as soon as I get it to turn on, am going to find a way to look up the operating temp.
What puzzles me, is a new motherboard, I assume there is something on that to automatically turn on the fan.
(as soon as I installed the last pcu, it powered up & stayed on for 2 days)
There is no video card in the black slot, so am assuming it is intregated in the motherboard.
Are you sure the CPU fan is plugged to the correct header slot ? ?He did not replace the keyboard.
So it must be the keyboard. 

Quote from: Geek-9pm on OCTOBER 30, 2014, 09:39:26 AM

He did not replace the keyboard.
So it must be the keyboard. 

Please knock it off...and think before you hit Post.

Hi,
My friend was messing around with my PC and he somehow changed my hard drive or boot up settings, basically what's happening is if i start up my computer with a USB or EXTERNAL HHD it says something like cant find windows or boot up files not found. Obviously it's not a BIG deal because all i have to do is unplug my device and it wont happen but i think i should change it back. Thank you in advance and i hope this can help someone elses problem too.



If you need specs i will post them.I guess that usually happens if someone messes with your boot sector. I'd assume you have your pc configured so it TRIES to boot up from external ports and the dvd drive first, then the main hdd? Changing that boot check sequence should fix it (if you make your main hdd the first thing to try to boot from check). If you EVER need to boot from another medium you can directly choose that while on the motherboard splash screen or in the boot menu (depends on the MANUFACTURER).I have the same problem and solve it the same way. Just remove the USB devices until the machine boots. The option is in the BIOS. I leave it that way in case I want to boot from USB.Go into the bios and change the boot order so the hd is the first device. Save the changes and exit the bios.Thank you guys
i will give it a try.

My Google skills aren't helping me much here, so I figured I'd throw myself in with you lot and see what you come up with!

I have a Brother MFC-J430W, CONNECTED wirelessly. Lately, it "disappears" from the home network. (In other words, power remains on, the little WIRELESS indicator shows no bars, I can't print to it, or ping its IP; it STILL will make copies, and I can manually start the scanner - although without connectivity, the scan goes nowhere). The network remains "stable"; my PCs, iPads, phones, etc., that access the same wireless point do not have trouble connecting. I have one other device that remains "on" - the Blu-Ray player, and it hasn't dropped its wireless in over 13 months.

The printer is located one room over from the router, and has not moved since it was installed. Other devices are in that room and on other floors, and still access the router. It is a STATIC IP, and nothing else in the network is ever assigned an IP anywhere near it. (It's .10, my router assigns starting at .65).

This first started happening about seven or eight months ago; the printer has been installed for nearly two (maybe three?) years (and the router for longer than that). It appears to be completely random, there is no PATTERN that I can determine.  There doesn't seem to be any specific external condition (eg after vacuuming the room, when the guitar amplifier is on).

As far as I know, it does not self-correct. I have never noticed that it had lost its signal, and then later noticed that it had regained it. (For all I know that's happening, I've just never observed it).

If I power the printer off and on, it corrects; I can also go through the setup menu (without turning it off) and it will re-initialize it.


The Brother site's help is of no use to me, and most of the troubleshooting I've found seems to focus on router changes, DHCP issues, or other things I'm not experiencing.In device manager/devices...check and see if allow Windows to turn this off to save power is unchecked for all wireless devices...
For some stupid reason that is the MS default setting.I'm away from my home network now... I presume the "device" to check in Device Manager would be the printer?

Even if that were the case, I'd say 70-80 percent of the traffic on the home network is my family's iPads and iPhones (not just printer traffic but overall wireless traffic).

The printer will "disconnect" when my Windows laptop is away, or when it's in range.OK, so I'm home today. The wireless printer doesn't show on Device Manager (and it is confirmed online), from what I can see? The wireless card itself, is not set to "turn off".

But again, it's the printer that's losing connectivity to the network, not any other computing device.

ThanksDoes this printer connect via USB ? ?A notwork manual for Brother
https://www.brother-usa.com/VirData/Content/en-US%5CMFC%5CConsumer%5CNetworkUsersManual%5CNUM_MFC_J280W_J425W_J430w_J435W_J625DW_J825DW_J835DW_EN_5038.PDF
Quote from: rjbinney on October 16, 2014, 12:09:49 PM

My Google skills aren't helping me much here, so I figured I'd throw myself in with you lot and see what you come up with!

I have a Brother MFC-J430W, connected wirelessly. Lately, it "disappears" from the home network. (In other words, power remains on, the little wireless indicator shows no bars, I can't print to it, or ping its IP; it still will make copies, and I can manually start the scanner - although without connectivity, the scan goes nowhere). The network remains "stable"; my PCs, iPads, phones, etc., that access the same wireless point do not have trouble connecting. I have one other device that remains "on" - the Blu-Ray player, and it hasn't dropped its wireless in over 13 months.

The printer is located one room over from the router, and has not moved since it was installed. I have been trying to find solutions online but nothing has helped. Other devices are in that room and on other floors, and still access the router. It is a static IP, and nothing else in the network is ever assigned an IP anywhere near it. (It's .10, my router assigns starting at .65).

This first started happening about seven or eight months ago; the printer has been installed for nearly two (maybe three?) years (and the router for longer than that). It appears to be completely random, there is no pattern that I can determine.  There doesn't seem to be any specific external condition (eg after vacuuming the room, when the guitar amplifier is on).

As far as I know, it does not self-correct. I have never noticed that it had lost its signal, and then later noticed that it had regained it. (For all I know that's happening, I've just never observed it).

If I power the printer off and on, it corrects; I can also go through the setup menu (without turning it off) and it will re-initialize it.


The Brother site's help is of no use to me, and most of the troubleshooting I've found seems to focus on router changes, DHCP issues, or other things I'm not experiencing.

So if i get straight to the point, one of my pc's fans seems to start revving up to max speed after LEAVING the computer idle for about 5-15 MIN (while the rest of the system stays quiet).
List of all the fans:
-1 side 120mm Noctua PWM fan (plugged into a 4 pin port)
-1 rear 90mm Noctua PWM fan (plugged into a 3 pin port)
- standard intel cpu fan (cpu)
- msi twin frozer cooler (gpu)
- generic psu fan

As you might have noticed i have a 4 pin pwm fan plugged into a 3 pin port on my mobo (the board has only one 4 pin port and one 3 pin port for case fans). The weird thing is that for the rest of the time its performing normaly, running at a reduced speed (and STOPPING at times lol). I'm almost certain its either this fan (more likely) or the cpu fan (which is for some reason linked to cpu usage and not the temp). This is really puzzling, have any of you seen ANYTHING like it?

EDIT: I waited for it to happen again with the case open and it seems like both of the noctua case fans increase rpm and the most of the noise comes from the 120mm side one, which is peculiar since the system is ice cold. Btw pressing any of the mouse/keyboard buttons cancels the revving, but not mouse movement. No notable programs are running except from panda AV, nvidia experience and hamachi.I seriously thought after seeing your Topic title you had a carpy Sports team...Yeah I'm famous, I have so many fans , I have so many fans........ So can we stop laughing now and get to the problem?

My desktop PC has a DG43NB motherboard with PENTIUM(R) DUAL.CORE CPU E5200 2.50 GHz and 4 GB RAM, 2 GB in each slot. Is there any way to increase the RAM?Maximum Supported is 4GB.... you would have to replace the motherboard to try for 8GB.


http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4008504&SRCCODE=WEBGOOKWL&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCs81CjCE&gclid=CMTa_tHR2cECFVNk7AodUnUAhw

Back in the day 8086,8088,80286,80386 era, you could install a Memory Expansion Board and the system would use this addon board for system memory, ( such as a 4MB 16 bit ISA Memory expansion board I had for a early 80286 ), but now days with way faster systems, the memory will eventually have to be moved even closer to the CPU cores etc if not integrated into the CPU as an APU design etc.

The only memory expansion boards I am aware of these days are for servers or specific builds with an aux bus connection for a memory riser.

Like these: http://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-pci-memory-expansion-board.html Quote from: Madgri on November 01, 2014, 07:52:06 AM

Is there any way to increase the RAM?

Intel® Desktop Board DG43NB
System Memory
4 GB maximum total system memory.

The SSD idea is not bad, but I'm using 3 x 320 GB hard disk in my PC, so I'd need several SSD to equal disk capacity.

Has anyone had any EXPERIENCE with a MAC Mini not turning on?

I just moved one across town (very carefully) and now it won't power up.

No LIGHTS, no sound, no power.

I would believe it's the power adapter (it's an old model, before they were built into the computer)

I have TRIED it on different power outlets, can the brick die that easy? So bizarre.If you own a multimeter, you could test to see if the power supply is working or not at the JACK end. I'd check there first to determine if its the power supply or worse a problem with the computer itself.

Hey guys, I have been checking around and I want to get the new Maingear Pulse 15 with 4k Display (Released V. Soon), but I have also heard that 4k on a laptop can cause lag in some shape or form. Just wanted to ask if anyone has any experience or information on the topic. The laptop sports INTEL Core i7 2.5/3.5 Ghz, Nvidia GeForce GTX970M 3GB GDDR5, 16 Gb DDR3-1600 Ram, 256 SSD mSATA and Windows 7 Professional.
Many Thanks in advance...4k will push the video card extremely hard, any current laptop video card will struggle to run games properly at 4k.  You would probably need to turn down the resolution and/or detail settings.So how would this affect the laptop's performance and long-term LIFE?Well, as I said, you may need to turn down the resolution and/or detail settings in some games to get decent performance but other than that it won't cause any other major issues. Quote

So how would this affect the laptop's performance and long-term life?

So if I were to use this for gaming would I be better off turning the resolution way down?

Well it will reduce the lifespan of your gpu, especially if you intend to play demanding games. Even if you keep the cooling optimal the card will eventually wear out (for example bitcoin mining can destroy a gpu very quickly).

GPUs are not a finite thing and do not "wear out" in a predictable way, especially under gaming.  Running 4k will not shorten the lifespan to any reasonable level, the card should still outlast its useful lifespan.  Bitcoin mining is totally different as that runs heavy computations and keeps the GPU load at 100% 24/7, gaming will not push a GPU nearly this hard no matter what resolution.

Well i did manage to break 2 ATI radeon HD 5000 series gpus back in the day, still under warranty by playing demanding games...

Greetings!
Since my Recent Post about my little IBM thinkcenter 8810 post i wanted to upgrade the CPU as well as the RAM. I was already suggested a top of the line CPU and for a great price too. Im still debating on it. My current setup is this:

Core 2 Duo 4300 1.8Ghz
3gb Ram
160gb Maxtor Main SATA
200Gb Samsung Secondary SATA
Geforce 310 by Pegatron (512mb Gddr2 PCI-e)
Windows 7 Home Premium

I was suggested this Chip that has double the Cache: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121445990490?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

But what i want to do is possibly double the RAM on this little to be Beast. It currently has 3Gb (512mbX2+2x1Gb=3gb)But Also whats this Pc 5400 and 333mhz mean?there is different kinda on ebay.  So i was wondering with Retail value of a 2gb stick is around $50 is it worth it and trusted that i get something like this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-4GB-2x-2GB-PC2-6400-DDR2-800-800-Mhz-240-pin-DIMM-Memory-For-AMD-CPU-Chipset-/151342735977?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item233cbae269

Basically i need this machine for school and as im using it to capture some video, web surfing and some word processing, and MINOR GAMING from time to time. You will need a 64 bit ver. of Windows to take advantage of that extra RAM...

Have you ran the ONLINE scanner yet at Crucial.com ? ?I've deleted everything that is not, in my opinion, relevant or helpful to the OP's question.

Hello
So i'm starting to need a new pc and since it has been some YEARS since ive assembled a PC on my own ive decided to do so this time
I've come up with a little build but as you can see im not done with it yet, it isnt a super extremist computer but it'll do what i will need it for

The Build
GPU: Zotac GeForce GTX 760 AMP Edition
or MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz
HSF: H80i?
SSD: HyperX 120GB SATA3 3K Gaming SSD Drive
RAM: Kingston HyperX Beast 16 GB Kit
Case: NZXT. H440
PSU: ?
Mobo: MSI Z87-G43 GAMING

Question 1) Does anyone know a way to test if your build will fit in your case?
Question 2) As you can probably see im not quite sure what PSU and HSF to buy, any suggestions?
im on a little budget so will probably not buy a 1000W PSU and i was thinking a Corsair H80i
but im not sure
Question 3) Zotac GeForce GTX 760 AMP Edition or MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760?Few points:

• MSI isn't a great brand so I would swap that motheboard for one from Gigabyte or ASUS
• Although Z87 technically supports that CPU, you would be best to get Z97 to be sure that it will be supported out of the box
• I'd look at a better SSD from the likes of Crucial, Samsung, Intel or Plextor - Kingston drives aren't great
• You won't need a crazy high wattage PSU, 550w is more than ENOUGH.  Just focus on getting a good quality unit from a brand like XFX, Seasonic, Corsair, Superflower.etc.

Do not buy a 1000 watt PSU. You will never need it.
Get a brand name 500 or 600 watt unit. At most, 700 watt.
This is not about bigger is better. Because A 1000 watt PSU for home use is not legal  in some areas a violates insurance companies rules.
Eve if t a PSU is able to handle 1000 watts, it must have over current limits to prevent fie. So labeling a unit as 1000 watts is dishonest. Unless it is licensed for special industrial use. Like in a factory.

Few points:

• MSI isn't a great brand so I would swap that motheboard for one from Gigabyte or ASUS
• Although Z87 technically supports that CPU, you would be best to get Z97 to be sure that it will be supported out of the box
• I'd look at a better SSD from the likes of Crucial, Samsung, Intel or Plextor - Kingston drives aren't great
• You won't need a crazy high wattage PSU, 550w is more than enough.  Just focus on getting a good quality unit from a brand like XFX, Seasonic, Corsair, Superflower.etc.

• Corsair (Not the CX or VS line)
• XFX
• Seasonic
• Superflower
• Antec

ok thx any asus Z97 motherboard you could recommend? (in same price range as MSI Z87-G43 GAMING)

Because A 1000 watt PSU for home use is not legal  in some areas a violates insurance companies rules.

So ive pretty much figured out everything, except if anyone know an easy way of figuring out if your components will fit in your case

Wow....

OP did not say he was going to use more that one high power GPU.

Most do not allow industrial equipment for household use.

Here is some background ink for for your reading pleasure.
Power Supplies DO NOT meet guidelines
 

Ah yea .

This Fractal case  design is very badly made. You cant even  but the hard drives on the MOUNT on the side they say the wires interfere with the front fan.I'd say it's a very nicely designed case (just fairly small), if your hard drive cables are getting in the fan then you are mounting the drives the wrong way around, the connectors should face towards the back of the PC.

You still have time to return it for a larger case if required.Na all fixed with a little BIT of modification.

Next problem I have it's not reading the SSD. I turn it on, it boots to where my old windows 7 was in the hard drive (I'm going to use that one as a Linux drive). I turn it off then unplug the drives (but leave the SSD) then an message says press any key and doesn't do anything :-/.

I told it to boot via SSD in the BIOS but still no luck.OK change what I have said.

It's not letting me boot from SSD.  So I boot from the DVD it works fine. I go past the code part of it,  then the license accept, then type of installation (I choose Upgrade from advanced), but now it comes up with a compatibility REPORT saying:

"The computer started using the Windows installation media. Remove the installation media and reset your computer so that Windows starts normally. Then insert the installation media and restart the upgrade. (Do not select ICustom (advanced) I to perform an upgrade ICustom (advanced)I installs a new copy of windows an d deletes your programs and settings). "

I assume the media is the DVD?  If so I restart put that back in and it takes me back to the code and the same process I did before...
When you select upgrade it is trying to upgrade the existing copy of Windows 7 that is on the hard drive.  When installing Windows 8 I would recommend unplugging the other hard drive and selecting a "Custom" install which will let you pick the SSD.  You can then later reconnect the hard drive and install Linux.OK all done and installed !

Thank you soo much for your help. I now have a much quieter computer !

I have a slight problem that i cannot find my 1TB HDSweet!  Enjoy! Quote

I have a slight problem that i cannot find my 1TB HD

Hello All..im a newbie...not computer literate- just basic.....hope I have posted in the right PLACE ? if I have not, then any guidance to the correct area will be most appreciated.

Can someone please advise.. from the GeForce GT635 video card -  can I use an hdmi cable and connect to a Samsung lcd TV (Samsung 22" 1080p 60HZ LED HD TV (UN22F5000)..?? ....I intend to buy this TV , currently didn't,  as I'm not aware if it will work. ?? once I have the correct advice  only then can I proceed to buy.

my system specs "

Orchid Motherboard = orchid s
•Manufacturer: MSI
•Form factor: uATX - 24.4 cm (9.6 in) x 24.4 cm (9.6 in)
•Chipset: AMD A78 FCH
•Memory sockets: 4 x DDR3
•Processor socket: FM2+
•Expansion Slots:
•One PCI Express x16 (Gen 3.0)
•Three PCI Express x1 (Gen 2.0)
•One PCI Express mini card

Processor = AMD A10 6700
•TDP: 65W
•Operating speed: Up to 3.7 GHz (up to 4.3 GHz turbo)
•Number of cores: 4
•Socket: FM2

Memory = 8 GB
•Amount: 8 GB
•Speed: PC3-12800 MB/s
•Type: DDR3-1600


Video graphics card =NVIDIA GeForce GT 635
Figure 2: Video card
kindly see attachment Images of video card...and ...Ports
also see Image of video card bracket SHOWING ports
1 - HDMI
2 - DVI

•Form Factor: Low profile PCB with ATX bracket
•Dimensions: 14.4 cm x 6.8 cm (5.7 in x 2.7 in)
•Maximum resolution:
•DVI (dual-link) resolution: 2560 x 1600 x 32bpp at 60Hz
•HDMI resolution: 1920 x 1080
•Analog VGA resolution (with adapter): 2048 x 1536 x 32bpp at 60Hz
NOTE:Not all ports support the highest resolutions.
•2 GB onboard memory
•Memory interface: 64-bit DDR3
•Total power consumption: ~ 35 W max
•Supports Blu-ray
•Supports HDCP
•Supports up to two displays at the same time


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Yes you can, you just need a regular HDMI cable.Thank you Camerongray for your response, much appreciated !...I'm sorry, I'm not well versed with technical aspects.

 so.... I can just get an hdmi cable and attach it to the (Samsung 22" 1080p 60Hz LED HD TV (UN22F5000)....and that's it ?..It will work ?... besides the hdmi cable do I need any other gadgets/ hardware's/ software's etc.

once again thank you for your response !

i am from india. i have assembled ONE new pc . my new pc build 1, fx 8350, 2.Motherboard - M5A97 R2.0 - ASUS 3,8gb corsair vengence ram., 4 , cooler master 212x hyper CPU cooler. 5, corsair cx 750 psu, 6, cabinet cooler master haf 912. 7.one lg dvd drive. after installing while starting pc it says cpu fan error in bios and hangs . the TEMPERATURE of chassis fan 2 goes very high. then i took my new assembled pc to my computer technician who assembled my pc. he checked and updated bios and it got rectified . then i have used my computer for 9 hours. it runs smoothly. i have installed coretemp software . coretemp software says the temperature is 27 to 48 at idle . then i installed sniper elite 3 pc game. while installing the cpu temperature suddenly rises to 62 and goes to 84 degree and computer suddenly shuts down. my computer temperature is 24 degrees now without installing game. i request to know what are the problems facing in my new pc and how to rectify the problem, so that i can tell the technician what is the problem. some says fitting problem and other says motherboard problem and few says bios fan problem. i cant SLEEP because i have spent about RS 60000 for my new pc built . i request to give good answers to rectify the problems. I deleted the duplicate post and moved this to the appropriate forum. In the future, please do not post the same question more than once. Thank you.What did you do in terms of thermal paste on the Hyper 212?  How did you apply it?  Did you peel off the plastic film covering the bottom of the cooler?

Assuming the fan on the cooler is spinning I'd SUGGEST you try removing the cooler, cleaning off thermal paste and try applying it again.  It may also be worth giving the stock cooler that came with the CPU a go just to be sure that the aftermarket cooler isn't at fault.

• A motherboard with a chipset starting with a Z (e.g. a Z97) - That board is H97
• A CPU with a model ending in a K (e.g. i5 4690k, i7 4790k)

No, to overclock on Intel you need two things:

    A motherboard with a chipset starting with a Z (e.g. a Z97) - That board is H97
    A CPU with a model ending in a K (e.g. i5 4690k, i7 4790k)

Hello, I'm an amateur computer repairman. One PROBLEM I've seen a few times (twice in friends/clients COMPUTERS and also my own) is where somehow, a wire inside in the power adapter cord breaks - breaking one of the connections and rendering the charger cord useless - and then after that, no new charger will charge the laptop anymore. The laptop gives MESSAGE "Plugged in, not charging". If I could solve this issue, that'd be a great step towards being actually able to be a computer repairman. Any knowledge of how this problem can be fixed - barring replacing the motherboard, that's generally not worth it in used laptop? Could it be the little tiny fuse on the motherboard?
Thanks.The problem is with the charger itself, not with the motherboard. You can try using different power adapter and see if it works.
In similar situations, replacing Laptop battery with new one could resolve the issue.

Post back your progress!!In two cases, I've already tried both a new charger and a new battery - neither changed the outcome, unfortunately.CalebHansberrym,
Now you need a diagram of the motherboard. You u will find some kind of regulator or converter that provider the voltages need by the motherboard. The battery pack often is a 10 volt stack of Ni-Cad cells sires wired and add up to ten volts.
There will be a chip that change  the ten volts into levels needed by the CPU,RAM and other devices. Typically + 5 volts and + 3.3 volts.
Apparently at least part of the power c conversion works; because you can run the laptop without the battery. It just might be a loose wire, or maybe some kind of fuse or a skip that protects the battery from a short circuit. You need to see the diagram to find out the details.
Well, I have no clue where I'd find a schematic of that. A Google search didn't bring one up, and I'm skeptical one could be found, but if it can, here's my model name: dv7-1245dxBack in 2012 there was a recall on that HP notebook.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/56126-2-pavilion-1245dx-motherboard-recall
The above link is on Tom's Harare, another forum
Have you looked on the HP web site?
http://hp.com/
Go there and enter you model number for the notebook.
You should find most of what you need there.


Hmmmmmmmm. It's a tricky problem! So far I haven't found a schematic yet, but that topic did pinpoint the TI IC (by name not location) that controls charging, and some posters said that it could be damaged easily by a faulty A/C adapter, as the ones we used with broken WIRES effectively were. But replacing that component may or may not be possible; though I'm experienced in soldering, from the pictures I saw it kind of looked surface-mount-with-the-pins-under-it (whatever you call that...)? If it is I don't know how I could desolder it. Even if it's got the pins out from under it like a decent IC it's be a massive pain without a microscope nor a soldering tool better than my cheap radioshack one. Now I've got a Lenovo with the same problem, so in any event I'll be studying it for a while.I had that same exact problema with my Dell Latitude D820 a while back ago.  The problema was that my charge r got busted, and I was using a charger that wasnt powerful enough.  Original was 90W, I was using a 65W, and got the same message, connected, not charging.  Then when I got my new 90W charger, it wouldnt charge.  After I changed the battery out, the problema was resolved.  The weird thing was that before I changed the battery, It gave the the same message intermittently with the 90W charger.  Sometimes it would charge OK, then the next time it would not.  I never knew what the problema relaly was.

Will the GPU Asus Gtx970 fit on a Asus z97-A MOBO? (with a i5 4690k)Yes it will.

Let's keep your PC build all down to one thread rather than having MULTIPLE ones.i'm SORRY, but no one was answering anymore on my other thread.

Thanks for your ANSWER!

Whats up guys
Recently i have 65$
and i wanna buy a gpu ddr3

PLEASE SUGGEST ME SOME GPU AT THIS BUDGET Take a look and see what is out there, you will not get a good video card for $65.Alright i will just increase the budget to 80$Still not enough, the minimum graphics card I would ever recommend for gaming would be the GeForce 750 at $120.  Gaming PCa are not cheap, as I said before, your budget is too low, you will need to save up.Neither of his budgets are realistic at all...With a budget like that if you are really scarce on cash, I'd look at ebay for buying a used videocard ( however ) this can be risky because you are taking the risk of buying a videocard that has overheated a few times to where the owner is unloading it before it burns out etc. I'd only buy through a merchant on ebay who backs their products with a good return policy, although most of them have very little warranty if any at all on parts such as video cards which are prone to getting cooked from inadequate airflow or people unlocking and overclocking them etc.

If you have any friends who recently upgraded video cards who have a card that is better than the one you currently have, you could also work out a deal to buy or trade something for their previous video card.

I have done lots of HARDWARE trading between friends and buying good hardware inexpensively at like 20% to 50% of the cost new etc. All of my high end cards I have bought were ones I got from friends who upgraded and didnt need the card ANYMORE and so it was money in their pocket for a part they dont need anymore etc, and at say $40 for a 2 year old video card that cost $200 new and hasnt been cooked to death, it was a sweet deal. This video card that was bought for $40 although 2 years old, was way better than anything else out there new for $40, and the closest new video card to match performance to the $200 card was a $120 video card.

When it comes to computers, I myself am sort of a penny pincher. I want performance, and yet I also dont want to dump too much money into it. So for a new computer, i will reuse pretty much everything but the motherboard, cpu, and ram which generally gets me a new system built from the prior system for around $150 to $250 for an AMD build, with $60 to $100 for motherboard, $25 to $50 for RAM, and $65 to $100 for CPU. The video card I generally migrate over to the new build since I usually paint myself into a corner with a CPU that eventually becomes the bottleneck in which most of the time its a replacement of Motherboard, CPU, and RAM. However with AMD builds I have STRETCHED the life of some systems further by taking advantage of the Socket AM2+ socket in which the system was originally built as a dual-core socket AM2 in 2008, and yet the motherboard after a flash can take a Phenom II x4 CPU and stretch the gaming lifespan of the motherboard another 3 or 4 years vs having to retire it as the main gaming rig. Also as far as power supply goes, I dont use cheap power supplies on my gaming builds and so it generally has no problems with the new hardware load which is greater than the prior build. This gaming system THOUGH is nothing pretty in appearance. Its basically newer hardware installed into a Compaq Presario case from 2004. So absolutely no modern bling to it. In addition to this though I drilled a small hole into the face of it and added a wire pair extension to the NIC activity LED, and relocated the NIC activity LED on a PCI 100mbps NIC to hot glued into the face of the computer. This allows me to look over at the computer and see when any unusual or unexpected network activity is happening vs having to look around the back of the computer. I sort of COPIED this NIC activity concept from some servers I have worked with that show the NIC activity for 2 adapters. Thats the only bling factor I guess it has is a relocated LED for the NIC..LOL 

Lots of people buy gaming systems and hardware and get sucked into the " costly cycle " of having to buy top of the line hardware every 3 to 5 years in which its usually a totally new computer. This is wasteful of money, but i generally take advantage of this waste in the upgrade path it gives me very inexpensively. I myself will spend about $50 to $100 a year on a computer, and with hardware always evolving into the next build pretty much when i retire the hardware its only really good for use on older games etc and outside of spec of a modern gaming system, but i get the maximum use out of the hardware vs having to have a system that is top of the line in performance. So at $50 to $100 per year this places my 3 to 5 year lifecycle of hardware components at a cost to me of just $300 to $500 tops vs spending double or tripple that amount. Also its softer on the wallet with $50 here or $100 there vs a $1000 purchase etc.camerongray
Listen i have a thermaltake 350w psu , can i run r7 250 on this psu ?

So I installed my upgrade, a AMD FX-8350 8-core 4.0Ghz with 4.2Ghz Turbo feature to my latest gaming SYSTEM.

Question I have is... do I need to enable a BIOS feature to enable this extra 200Mhz boost from 4.0 to 4.2 or is this something that only certain motherboards support while others do not?

It was my understanding (or misunderstanding for that matter) reading the specs on this CPU that this feature was internal to the CPU, and so I thought it was automatic to kick in.

Here below is a screenshot of me stress testing it and it never went faster than 4000Mhz.

Also here is my motherboard Biostar A960D+ Socket AM3+ http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=627

Also I bought this XFX nVidia GeForce 260GTX Black Edition video card off my brother used for $40 which is quite the upgrade from the ATI HD5450 1GB Video Card I had prior. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150330




[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Try checking your CPU speed with CPU-Z instead - http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html - and see if that reports any differently.

I would like to warn you however that your board's VRMs are only rated to 95W and are not heatsinked, the 8350 is a 125W chip (some say it can draw even more than that, I would imagine when hitting max turbo it may well exceed 125W) which is not safe.  I have no idea why Biostar think it's acceptable to list a 125W CPU as working with that board but most manufacturers have been doing that for years, long enough for this thread to have become invaluable - http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-databaseTHANKS for the heads up on the potential issue where this motherboards VRM's are rated lower than the max CPU listed. I wasnt aware of this. 

I guess I will be buying a new motherboard ( most likely Gigabyte brand ) soon then to protect my CPU from the chance that a VRM could roast and fail and send too much to the CPU from the source side to the output side. if it roasts and bridges internally.

Good suggestion on the CPUZ, just in case the gadget is reporting wrong somehow. No problem, sorry it's bad news

Have a look at the overclock.net thread I linked to and check the VRMs on any AMD board before purchasing - I use it as a quick reference when recommending AMD boards or CPU upgrades due to the widespread issues with overstressed VRMs and some power hungry AMD CPUs.  If you don't push your CPU hard your board should be fine, just avoid extended periods of full load until you're able to replace the board with something with a better VRM setup.  Alternatively you could heatsink the VRMs to help them out, it's not a fix as such but it's better than nothing and shouldn't cost you more than a few $ and some time.

Some tiny heatsinks, attach them with some thermal tape or epoxy and try to ensure they get some airflow (the stock CPU cooler which blows down would suffice for this) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8ORegarding monitoring software, In addition to CPU-Z, there is of course SpeedFan and HWMonitor. I'm partial to HWMonitor (as well as CPU-Z) myself- I suppose my apathy towards Speedfan could be because using it causes this system to bluescreen.

Gigabyte is a good brand of motherboard too- can't really go wrong with them. I would suspect even their "value" oriented boards would probably be better than some motherboard brands such as Biostar and MSI.Found this Motherboard, but not sure if VRM's are rated high enough or not. Did a search for this MB at the link you provided and didnt find a match. I am thinking this might be an OK board for the fact that its Gigabyte brand and at least they added a heatsink across them.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128565

As far as adding small heatsinks to the VRM's, if this was a SFF type of desktop that laid flat, it would probably be ok, but on a minitower, I'd be concerned with one of these aluminum blocks coming loose and falling onto the back side of the video card below etc. Back many years ago I bought a peel and stick GPU heatsink with a small fan on it for the GeForce 2 card that I had that the original fan died in on my Pentium III 733Mhz and the one day I turned the computer on and heard a strange buzzing noise inside the case. The heatsink came free and was hanging from the P-connector power and the small GPU fan was grinding face down on the bottom of the minitower case.

Since then, I would rather have real heatsink anchors the push and turn type or the plastic rivot type etc that wont just pop off like that.  Leave it to me to have bad luck like this  

About the motherboard I linked though I was surprised that the motherboard still had the 760G chipset which has been around for a few years. I would have expected the 960 or newer. But feature wise and the fact that its mATX, it looks like the match to my needs if the VRM's are high enough rating.I wouldn't get one of those basic boards with the 760G chipset.  They are cheap but extremely outdated without support for the most basic stuff like native USB 3.0 or SATA III.

Look for one with a more modern chipset like a 970 although these only tend to be ATX so if you have to be MicroATX you may be out of luck.hmm... looks like I might have to upgrade to a full height case I guess and just go with an ATX vs a mATX. I am finding just as you stated that the mATX seems to be common with the 760 but not the newer chipset.

Thanks for everyones input on this.The 78LMT-USB3 has 4+1 phase VRMs which are OK for 125W CPUs, plus they're heatsinked so it's better in that respect.  However as Cameron says it's a very budget orientated board and is lacking in modern features, I have one in my parts bin you could have for shipping but I think shipping to the US would be more than it's worth to be honest.
I don't see any mATX boards I'd recommend to pair up with that CPU.

Quote

As far as adding small heatsinks to the VRM's, if this was a SFF type of desktop that laid flat, it would probably be ok, but on a minitower, I'd be concerned with one of these aluminum blocks coming loose and falling onto the back side of the video card below etc. Back many years ago I bought a peel and stick GPU heatsink with a small fan on it for the GeForce 2 card that I had that the original fan died in on my Pentium III 733Mhz and the one day I turned the computer on and heard a strange buzzing noise inside the case. The heatsink came free and was hanging from the P-connector power and the small GPU fan was grinding face down on the bottom of the minitower case.

I have one in my parts bin you could have for shipping but I think shipping to the US would be more than it's worth to be honest.

hi alls my FRIEND I need good help I have PROBLEM with KEYBOARD Because i disconnect one keyboard ps/2 and connect usb now I have
yellow exclamation on device manager annd I need to REMOVE this driver appreciate somebody help me to solveee thiss problem
before i find MANY time by taskbar said safe remove hardware but now I can't find thank you for any help   Did you swap them with the power on ? ?

I need  to setup VPN for a company who wants to connect their individual COMPUTERS from their different branches to their HQ. I am not sure what to do...
Currently I had been looking into these 2 routers TPlink TL-R600VPN and TPlink TLER6120...

1) I am not sure If I need to deploy these routers at the branches to their HQ....?
2) Can I use just one router at the hq and the rest use software vpn to connect?
3) do I need to purchase vpn SERVICE for it to work?
4) Does the company needs STATIC IP?

Can any one explain this, lately when I turn on my computer it sounds LIKE it's running FINE but I don't hear the start-up beep and my monitor doesn't show any image. I have to shut the POWER off and restart the computer before it will actually start up. I took the case cover off YESTERDAY and watched the start-up process. The CPU fan comes on but it looks like the hard drive isn't starting. Does this mean my hard drive is GOING out or some thing on the motherboard?

Attached is a photo of my father's COMPUTER screen upon boot up. It did not used to display this screen. How to get rid of it so the computer goes directly to the Windows SPLASH screen?

[ATTACHMENT deleted by admin to conserve space]In bios, look for a setting named "quick boot" or "FAST boot" and enable it. SAVE the change and exit bios.Thank YouYou're welcome

hi, |I have a Intel 101 motherboard, after shutdown pc time is WRONG , I already replace new CMOS bettary but problem still again,
please send me solution for this, thanks...The crystal is broke.
Sorry SIR, what is The crystal is broke.i do't understand.A small component that holds a piece of materiel that controls the clock time.
Often made from a slice of natural quartz, but ALSO can by made. artificially.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=quartz+crystal+oscillator+images&id=91D8E84BA4F1C903B1048922292AEBC27A8E3732&FORM=IQFRBA
When damaged, does not show noticeable  signs. Test with a frequency meter. Should be 32,758 cps.Thanks you.....Most articles on the subject of RTC failure focus on the CMOS battery. But fracture of the crystal is also common. On some motherboards it is on e sealed component. Others have the RTC (real time clock) and crystal separate.
I don't  think  you need to replace the motherboard.
This link may be of some help.
He did  replace the battery and the time was still bad.
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r20295719-RTC-losing-time-new-BatteryMotherboard-bad
If you read the whole thing, nobody ever tells them a crystal can fail unexpectedly or another associated component can fail. Either WAY, the time base goes way off while the PC is powered down.
(I played will quartz oscillators when I was a TEEN. Had a collection of army surplus crystal dated  from WW 2. Broke a couple of them.)

What is the best MOTHERBOARD for $30 to $50 but not an MSII've replied to your other thread, lets KEEP this BUILD in a single thread.  Topic Closed.

Hey guys!
I would like to know if this pc build will basically get 60fps in any game. Except like Metro Last Light and Far Cry 3.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
GPU: PNY GeForce GTX 970 4GB
CPU: AMD FX-8320 8-Core PROCESSOR
RAM: 4GB G.Skill Ripjaw X Series
MOBO: MSI basic motherboard that will hold these parts correctly.
Also keep in mind i can change out parts but only for parts for the same price range. I have a $750 budget for christmas and this pc is gonna cost $768
One last question. What Intel processor is the same price as the AMD FX-8320 but can out perform it?
Thanks guys,
                     ComputerGeek30ComputerGeek30, you are asking many question in one post.
Maybe I can talk about just TWO.
If you have a 64 bit OS and a 64 bit game, you should have more than  4 GB of RAM to push the advantage of the 64 bits CPUs.

The AMD vs Intel thing will start a fight. Here is a recent posting from Tom's Hardware:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1970980/amd-intel-cpu-gaming.html
AMD vs Intel...which CPU better for gaming
Okay thanks. I apologizeI'd avoid MSI MBoards at all costs...Video card and CPU are fine for gaming (although an i5 would be better).   However, don't get a "basic MSI motherboard" - get a motherboard from a good brand such as Gigabyte or ASUS with at least a 970 chipset (MSI are a traditionally low end, budget brand with a very patchy reliability history) - Won't cost MUCH more but will save a lot of hassle in the long run.

Also, what power supply are you looking at?I already have a powersupply i ordered before i got the pc i dont know why i did but i did. Its a Corsair AX860. Intel i5 are too much money for not that much more performance. Could you give me a link to one of those motherboards? I can't seem to find one
Also the mobo is only $40 its gonna be hard to top that price$40 Bucks is more than it's worth...you'll find out soon enuff.I believe you just all other motherboards are like $70 to $100 which i think is WAY too much money for a motherboard. Motherboards dont increase fps in games...
If the OP really has to stay inside a budget, consider giving up on some other thing he does not really need. Like going two or three days without food.  Or think about buying used instead of new.
Used gigabyte motherboards, or similar,  are available on eBay.
One of many:
Genuine Gigabyte GA-M61PME-S2 Motherboard Socket AM2 DDR2 VGA SATA
He wants $30 for it. Might be worth it.

Of course, when buying  on eBay there are risks you take.
Feel free to ignore the above... 

Quote from: ComputerGeek30 on November 09, 2014, 12:10:28 PM

Motherboards dont increase fps in games...

Might be worth it.

I believe you just all other motherboards are like $70 to $100 which i think is WAY too much money for a motherboard. Motherboards dont increase fps in games...

I've got an ASUS M2a-vm HDMI motherboard running on board graphics and sound. It had 2 gb of RAM in the first slot. I added 2 1 gb sticks of RAM and it works, but the sound is all distorted whistles and chirps. When the 2 sticks are removed, sound is fine. I tried updating the chipset as well as the sound drivers to no avail. Any ideas out there? Thanks for listening Are the RAM stiks correct for that PC ? ?YES, ddr2 pc2-6400The board should be able to hold 8 gb Dual channel memory architecture
4 x 240-pin DIMM, support max. 8GB DDR2 800/667/533 ECC and Non-ECC,un-buffered memory
*When installing total memory of 4GB capacity or more, Windows 32-bit operation system MAY only recognize less than 3GB. Hence, a total installed memory of less than 3GB is recommended.I'm running Windows 7 64 bit.
I reinstalled Windows 7, and it worked, without sound, but upon restart I'm getting a white screen.
I'm feeling PRETTY hopeless.
I'm guessing I just can't upgrade my RAM. That sucks Did you try updating the BIOS version? I'm guessing it's the wrong RAM... Quote from: patio on November 09, 2014, 07:20:33 PM

I'm guessing it's the wrong RAM...

Compaq C751 Lap Top     By removing 18 screws on the back, to remove the back COVER, will it expose the hard drive
                                         so it can be removed and replaced?
                          Most laptops have a small access door on the bottom where you remove 1 or 2 screws to gain access to the hard drive but not all do (my Toshiba doesn't).  In that case, it may be necessary to remove the entire bottom panel to be able to replace the drive.  That's not guaranteed either, on an Acer netbook I had, it was necessary to remove it's motherboard in order to access the drive.  I can't say whether removing the bottom will be enough on your Compaq, maybe you could contact Compaq/HP and ask them.

BTW, is that a C751NR?  When I was Googling for info, I saw that model and wasn't sure if it was the same.You Tube video for Compaq Presario F700
How to replace the Hard Drive in your HP Compaq Presario F700
Quote from: strollin on November 07, 2014, 02:20:07 PM

Most laptops have a small access door on the bottom where you remove 1 or 2 screws to gain access to the hard drive

Thank you all for your advice. Replaced HD but could not Install OS Vista.  (Boot MGR Missing) Will try to make Bootable USB Drive

hi , I have an older HP pc.I have a new Nvidia video card ,plenty of power and a new hard drive. It still runs SLOW when trying to play games , freezes up or occasionally I get a blue screen . Not sure what to replace next. I guess the bottom line is that it needs to be a gaming compatible pc. Trying to figure out if I need a better processor and if so would it work with an older motherboard ? Any advice is GREATLY appreciated
processor is AMD Athlon x2 dual CORE 5600 + 2.8 Ghz
RAM 2 gb
Video card Ge Force GT 640
Win7 ultimate 64 bit
motherboard micro ATX It is very hard for a home user to verify a motherboard. There are just two many parts that could go bad with no or little visible sign.
Do you know how old the Desktop is? Before 2006, more or less, there is not much you can do to upgrade. After that year some significant changes were MADE in desktop designs. Mostly for better.
"A few of the ready made Desktops were fair game machines with a little work."
- From the comments of others. I don't really know of a  standard desktop was ever a good game machine.

If you have a very modest budget, you might think about  a used console instead of a PC. See if any of your friends will trad you the HP for a console.
Quote from: kathy517 on November 04, 2014, 07:06:12 PM

hi , I have an older HP pc.I have a new Nvidia video card ,plenty of power and a new hard drive. It still runs slow when trying to play games , freezes up or occasionally I get a blue screen . Not sure what to replace next. I guess the bottom line is that it needs to be a gaming compatible pc. Trying to figure out if I need a better processor and if so would it work with an older motherboard ? Any advice is greatly appreciated
processor is AMD Athlon x2 dual core 5600 + 2.8 Ghz
RAM 2 gb
Video card Ge Force GT 640
Win7 ultimate 64 bit
motherboard micro ATX

2GB RAM is not enough for Win7-64bit.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows7/products/system-requirements

Hello, I have a old PIONEX PC with a Biostar M5ALA v2.0 ATX motherboard which has been no end of problems from day it was new. It also has a quantum bigfoot 6GB hard drive and have 3 bigfoots die over the last couple years. I ordered a seagate 17.2 harddrive but it is to big for this board to "see". We have a new PC just to let you guys know who want to say junk it, LOL, I am kinda new to fixing/updating PCs and this thing has been great for learning with, plus we got it brand new for way to much money  So my question is I need some suggestions on mother boards to replace the biostar board with, I don't really need some new top of the line board, just something I might find at Ebay or computer shop that will fit and handle a 20 to 30 GB hard drive and a common CPU, It has a socket 7 AMD K6-2 / 500 now, To me it looks like socket 7 is not used much in newer boards, I don't know if this CPU is much good for newer games or not or possibly going to windows 2000 or even XP. I am just looking for sugestions as to what kind or model board to look for that will fit without to much problem. I just want something that will work and be stable which this M5ALA is not, its so touchy I hate to download anything because I don't know what it will do. Thanks, Tom72GSX.....I agree rebuilding a p/c is a great way to learn.... you should make a list of what you can use from you old machine.......
what kind of Ram does it have ( maybe you can reuse it)
As for the processor......if your into games .......I would consider getting a stronger processor.. I suppose the bottom line is how much do you want to spend .....and then go to eBay and have a ball. I just rebuilt a older P3
800    Slot 1  ........got a Asus board on eBay......put in a 40 gig HD , 768 Ram ( some I had ) and it runs great....in fact it outperforms a much newer AMD 1.7 .
Just TRY and select a M/B that will allow you to upgrade to a faster processor if you wish.

dl65  I found a Gatway MIDWAY P4 3.6 microATX 4000820 socket 478 intel i865 ATA 33/66/100/133/150 for BUY it now for $55.00 + shipping, I also think it had built in sound and video. would a bourd like this be a good one to update PC with and get rid of the dam M5ALA, I already have a seagate 17.2 ATA 66 hard drive I got for this one but board won't "see" it. 72GSX [Tom]Tom ....will that board take your existing processor ?


dl65  Hi, Nope, I have a socket 7 CPU now, The fastest CPU I have is a AMD K6-2/500. I would like to update to a better CPU also but I don't know if socket 478 is a good one to get or if that setup is getting outdated to. TomTom.....there are all kinds of motherboards and processors on eBay.......I would look at what parts you can reuse from your old machine ........
the CASE ........atx form I'd guess
the power supply
cd-rom or burner
floppy drive
your ram depending on what kind you have
any pci cards you have in your existing box
Hard drive
IDE cables

decide how fast a processor you'd like and then check eBay and I 'll bet you will find whatever your looking for..

Good luck

dl65  Everything there is ok, but I'd go with a different brand than MSI as for I dont trust their brand after many issues myself with their products as well as seen others with many issues with that brand. For video cards I like Gigabyte, ASUS, XFX, and others with trusted reliability and performance.This is a 10 year old entry that you responded to 

When I started reading the initial post with BigFoot drives I was like I use to have those and is someone finally putting a system to rest with them which is like 17 years old, and so i looked at the date of the original post. June 2004 which is around the time that I too retired an Acer Pentium 200Mhz with a 4.3GB BigFoot drive that fit a 5.25" space vs 3.5" and was running Windows 98SE, but originally Windows 95.

Please be more careful to reply to posts that are less that 2 or 3 WEEKS old vs 10 years old

Im about to receive new hardware that I will use for a GAMING build how can I make sure that the hardware is functioning PROPERLY? what is the best program that I can use?
RAM = MemTest
HDD = Free diagnostics from the HDD manuf. site
GPU = PassMark
CPU = Prime
PSU you will need a tester
MBoard = needs to be TESTED at a shop
Monitor = You'll know immediately.Will the pass MARK show any failures in the gpu?
Yepper...

As the title said
my audio keep getting auto muted once i open certain program (Steam CS GO and GarenaTalk) even if i close the programs , the audio is still muted even tho i checked my speakers which is still on like 20% (not muted) but when i open some videos that has sound in it , i cant HEAR anything , this applies to all.
i have to restart my computer to get back the sound and not to open the 2 program that caused this problem ( so far only this 2 program caused this )
Is there any way to fix this Most likely the troubles  are in the programs, not the system.
You can try this.
Create another user account, if you only have one.
Log out h to the other user and SEE what happens.
Now go back to the first user.
Does that HELP any?
Logging off is quicker that doing a restart.



Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 02, 2014, 10:12:04 PM

Most likely the troubles  are in the programs, not the system.
You can try this.
Create another user account, if you only have one.
Log out h to the other user and see what happens.
Now go back to the first user.
Does that help any?
Logging off is quicker that doing a restart.