24217 + Interview Questions in Hardware in Hardware Page 128 InterviewSolution

6351.	Solve : Can I get it back?or ....?
Answer» hi... I want to know how old for the HTC426060G8CE00 A/A0k1 A/A P/N: 08k1606 60GB 4200rpm hard drive made in Philippines ? Can i buy it from any Asian countries? I searched it from internet and I couldn't get it ... amilaAny REASON you need that exact HDD ? ?It's an unusual type of drive - a tiny 1.8" Hitachi Travelstar, it uses the UltraATA/100 interface. This is a CEnn version using a ZIF connector, there is also a PCnn version with a Mini-ATA connector ALONG the length of the drive. It was reviewed on Tom's Hardware in April 2006. That gives you some idea of when they were marketed. 8 or 9 years is a long time in the hard drive market. They are almost certainly NOT on sale new retail any more. I have seen Travelstars online on Amazon and eBay. Maybe the OP is looking for a replacement for a SICK or dead drive for some item of hardware from years ago? ya.... thanks ....so MUCH.. i think it is dead,that's why I tried to find it..now I think I should replace my laptop..any way...thanks

Discussion

6352.	Solve : Call Of Duty Advanced Warfare?
Answer» On ULTRA or super high SETTINGS what fps WOULD I get? AMD FX-4300 4 core processor MSI Twin Frozr 1GB GTX 750ti 8gb of ramWhat screen RESOLUTION will you be running it at?

Discussion

6353.	Solve : Sudden Power Loss, Confused?
Answer» My Laptop did a scary thing I was using my laptop unplugged to watch some videos before bed and while I was BROWSING between videos, my laptop shut off suddenly as if the battery had been popped out. It wasn't the normal, gentle low-battery shutdown that happens around 10% where it looks like the computer goes into hibernation and saves your current session, it was a harsh and SUDDEN loss of power. I plugged it in thinking the battery was broken or something and turned the computer back on. When I did so, the "unexpected shutdown" screen showed up, as expected, and everything started normally. When I checked the battery icon, it said It was CHARGING from 1%! What happened? How did my battery drain so completely and so quickly that it by-passed it's normal low-battery shutdown? I continued to let it charge as I ran scans for malware and such to be safe. While doing this, I checked on the battery and it said "62% plugged in, NOT charging" My first thought was "__________ I pushed the battery out of my mind for a few minutes to avoid an oncoming HEADACHE but when I noticed the icon fill up a little more, I checked it again and it said: "70% plugged in, charging" and after 5-minutes: "71% plugged in, NOT charging" and after 10 minutes: "74% plugged in, charging" Gently wiggling my power cord by the jack does not affect the charging/not charging status like other power-jack related problems I've experienced in the past and that thing with the sudden shut-down makes me think something more might be going on. The battery's MF date is 06/2012 so it is reaching the END of it's general life-span but I'm tight for cash so I'd like to make sure I know exactly what needs replacing, if at all, before throwing money at it. Comp. Info: HP Pavilion g7-1350dx - about 2yrs old fresh from the store with installed battery & cord Any other info, feel free to askKeep it clean...we have Members of all ages here.

Discussion

6354.	Solve : Back Arrow on Tab Key Purpose?
Answer» Tab key: What is the purpose of the backward arrow on the tab key? How do you invoke it? What code does it generate? My use of the tab key is always to go forward. Is there a way to tab backwards? Also, there is a character in the ASCII code table called a "vertical tab". What is that used for and how is it invoked from the keyboard? I'm sure these questions have been asked before but I didn't find anything with search.Tabbing backwards really depends on the program you are using, most things like word processors do not support it since they expect you to just delete the tab character but some text editors (used for programming) allow you to do a backwards tab by holding shift and pressing tab. This is useful for indenting/unindenting several lines of code at once.Thank you! I suspected that it was not used much because it had no affect in every APP where I tried shift-tab. I do a little REXX programming here and there but there is no developer interface for it so it is not used there. You muct be pretty good to know about that needle in a haystack. Thanks, again.Tab & Shift-Tab are standard ways of moving through a DOCUMENT or application. I'm sure there are exclusions but, if an application doesn't support forward/backward tabbing, then it's broken. It may not be a big DEAL for us sighted users but for blind users it's a MUST and very much depended upon. I'm a developer for a large software company and all of our software is coded and tested to support tabbing and even to use a logical tab-order (generally left-to-right, top-to-bottom). to CLARIFY, Strollin is referring to tab order through controls. eg when you press tab, it moves to the next control (textbox, button, etc.) in the tab order, and Shift+Tab moves backwards through that order.

Discussion

6355.	Solve : Dell monitors?
Answer» Heard that Dell monitors are best in class and would like to get one with my computer I was looking at the Dell E2715H, E2414H, P2213 & S2240L... I like the bigger sizes but really any will do so long as it has a digital connection and can accept one of their sound bars any suggestions or recommendations? As far as the statement of: Quote Heard that Dell monitors are best in class I wouldn't say they are the best out there. Some are Good, some are OK, and some are Junk. As far as specific model to purchase it comes down to features and specs mainly, as well as appearance in some cases as well. As far as Dell monitors, I dont buy them myself, but instead get them for free or very inexpensively when people get rid of their Dell computers. Dell, just like HP, and other computer brand monitors are basically their brand name placed onto the guts of other display manufacturer displays in which Dell has a CONTRACT with a company that makes inexpensive displays to make them say 100,000 of a specific model with the Dell name on them. The reason for some being good, ok, and junk is because they sometimes cut corners in pricing to be competitive that leads to "you get what you paid for" of quality. So cutting corners to make low cost displays can sometimes lead to problem models or models that lack in performance. For this reason, I like to not buy displays that are computer re-branded displays, but instead buy from a manufacturer of displays that are well known for quality who have a good warranty. I usually buy Samsung displays because I have had very good luck with them. They may cost more than the Dell or HP display etc, but at least I know that I have a quality product that should last me with no troubles.Of course Dell sell some basic monitors that go along with their PCs, they are HARDLY bad though. They also sell very high end monitors such as the Ultrasharp series - These are not designed to be sold along with PCs and are instead marketed as proper professional monitors. SURE it was the case a long time ago that Dell simply rebranded other monitors to go along with their PCs, but nowdays they design and MANUFACTURE monitors for the retail market, and do a very good job at it. As far as the ones you linked, I can't really see any that jump out at me. What I would look for is a monitor that is at least 1920x1080, no bigger than 24" (if you go with 1080p) and has a good adjustable stand. The Ultrasharp series from Dell are a bit more EXPENSIVE but are the best quality ones they offer with IPS panels which give good viewing angles and accurate colours.was also looking at the Dell P2815Q... that and the 27 i listed would be one and two on my list

6355.

Solve : Dell monitors?

Answer»

Heard that Dell monitors are best in class and would like to get one with my computer I was looking at the Dell E2715H, E2414H, P2213 & S2240L... I like the bigger sizes but really any will do so long as it has a digital connection and can accept one of their sound bars

any suggestions or recommendations? As far as the statement of: Quote

Heard that Dell monitors are best in class

I wouldn't say they are the best out there. Some are Good, some are OK, and some are Junk.

As far as specific model to purchase it comes down to features and specs mainly, as well as appearance in some cases as well.

As far as Dell monitors, I dont buy them myself, but instead get them for free or very inexpensively when people get rid of their Dell computers.

Dell, just like HP, and other computer brand monitors are basically their brand name placed onto the guts of other display manufacturer displays in which Dell has a CONTRACT with a company that makes inexpensive displays to make them say 100,000 of a specific model with the Dell name on them. The reason for some being good, ok, and junk is because they sometimes cut corners in pricing to be competitive that leads to "you get what you paid for" of quality. So cutting corners to make low cost displays can sometimes lead to problem models or models that lack in performance.

For this reason, I like to not buy displays that are computer re-branded displays, but instead buy from a manufacturer of displays that are well known for quality who have a good warranty. I usually buy Samsung displays because I have had very good luck with them. They may cost more than the Dell or HP display etc, but at least I know that I have a quality product that should last me with no troubles.Of course Dell sell some basic monitors that go along with their PCs, they are HARDLY bad though. They also sell very high end monitors such as the Ultrasharp series - These are not designed to be sold along with PCs and are instead marketed as proper professional monitors. SURE it was the case a long time ago that Dell simply rebranded other monitors to go along with their PCs, but nowdays they design and MANUFACTURE monitors for the retail market, and do a very good job at it.

As far as the ones you linked, I can't really see any that jump out at me. What I would look for is a monitor that is at least 1920x1080, no bigger than 24" (if you go with 1080p) and has a good adjustable stand. The Ultrasharp series from Dell are a bit more EXPENSIVE but are the best quality ones they offer with IPS panels which give good viewing angles and accurate colours.was also looking at the Dell P2815Q... that and the 27 i listed would be one and two on my list

Discussion

6356.	Solve : GTX 760 vs GTX 970?
Answer» Which graphics card should i get for my exact monitor? Specs Right Now: MOBO: Asus M5A97 970 chipset Ram: G.Skill Ripjaw X Series 8GB GPU: GTX 460 CPU: AMD FX-6300 HDD: 1TB Seagate Barracuda I know the FX-6300 will BOTTLENECK the 970 so ill upgrade that if i end up with the 970 instead of the 760 but, I have a Acer 20" monitor. The top resolution is only 1366 x 768. Is it worth getting the upgraded processor and GPU for a 720p monitor? I'm not in the market for a NEW one cuz i personally love my monitor. Can you guys help me?The 760 is more than enough for gaming at that resolution and would also be FINE for 1080p. 1366x768 is extremely low resolution by modern standards.Thanks for responding. Ill definitely go with the 760 than. I see no NEED to upgrade monitors though.

Discussion

6357.	Solve : My computer turn off and turn on automatically?
Answer» Hello guys I am beginner on computers and recently my computer OBTAINED a problem and i think its on hardware the problem. When i open pc it is open for 4-5 seconds and its turn off and few seconds later it's turn on automatically without me pressing the power button, also it;s doesn't send signal to my screen. Can anyone please help me? Sorry for my english, its not my native language.Could you please share the make/model number of the computer? Also if this computer is new and under warranty have you CONSIDERED returning it under warranty replacement? Quote from: DaveLembke on November 28, 2014, 04:07:31 PM Could you please share the make/model number of the computer? Also if this computer is new and under warranty have you considered returning it under warranty replacement? I don't know where to FIND model number its over 2 years old, warranty has expired few months ago. If this is a laptop it should be a sticker on the bottom that SAYS brand/make & model: If its a desktop computer it should have a sticker on it somewhere if its a store BOUGHT computer with make and model. Desktop computers can have this sticker on any of the sides of the computer. Such as my compaq has it on the front panel, and my HP has it on the side panel, and my Dell has it on the back panel etc.

6357.

Solve : My computer turn off and turn on automatically?

Answer»

Hello guys
I am beginner on computers and recently my computer OBTAINED a problem and i think its on hardware the problem.
When i open pc it is open for 4-5 seconds and its turn off and few seconds later it's turn on automatically without me pressing the power button, also it;s doesn't send signal to my screen.

Can anyone please help me?

Sorry for my english, its not my native language.Could you please share the make/model number of the computer? Also if this computer is new and under warranty have you CONSIDERED returning it under warranty replacement? Quote from: DaveLembke on November 28, 2014, 04:07:31 PM

Could you please share the make/model number of the computer? Also if this computer is new and under warranty have you considered returning it under warranty replacement?

I don't know where to FIND model number
its over 2 years old, warranty has expired few months ago.
If this is a laptop it should be a sticker on the bottom that SAYS brand/make & model:

If its a desktop computer it should have a sticker on it somewhere if its a store BOUGHT computer with make and model. Desktop computers can have this sticker on any of the sides of the computer. Such as my compaq has it on the front panel, and my HP has it on the side panel, and my Dell has it on the back panel etc.

Discussion

6358.	Solve : Impossible to make HDD image on external USB 2.0 HDD - to slow and stops?
Answer» I will enclose here my complaint which I send to motherboard maker Gigabyte, regarding USB external hard disk problem. Please read it and if anybody knows how to solve this, thanks.My computer has 500GB external hard drive connected to USB 2.0 port(s), which is extremely slow. Drive is Transcend StoreJet. No DRIVERS exist for it. It works perfectly for other I/O operations like copy, paste, delete,etc. When I try to make hard disk image with any program, and store it on Transcend Store Jet, speed starts with 50MB/s but drops to nearly zero in few minutes. It is the same with any program. Disk image WOULD take more than one day to complete, if it completes at all. Actually, I never managed to finish image with any disk imaging software. I tried all usual software for that: Paragon, Aomei, Acronis, EaseusToDo, Drive XML, etc. Are there any USB or other drivers which are responsible for this issue? Can Gigabyte be serious regarding its costumers and provide them solution in order to use USB ports for most important thing (backup)? In this case, making disk image is totally impossible. USB 2.0 ports have theoretical speed of 480 Mbit/s. This is far cry from situation here. So, USB ports on this Gigabyte configuration is totally useless for backup on external USB hard disk. Clearly, there is serious bug which can cause loss of data - worst outcome in computer use for your customers. NOTE: all disks, internal HDD and external USB are checked multiple times and they do not have any errors. Hard disk has 500GB, only 137GB is occupied. BIOS and Windows can see USB disks. BIOS is upgraded to version 5-maximum. It is on Safe Default Setting. Computer was in service few days ago and they did't diagnose any faulty component. Please feel free to ask me for further questions if needed. I'd try a different external HDD.... its probably driver related. Either a driver for the external or the USB BUS controller. I use to run into this issue with Ghost 2003 over USB with specific no-name external enclosures I was using. When I used my 320GB Seagate it worked flawless. I also had where it would start and show a speed and then the speed would drop to next to nothing. I also had a HP G-Series server that didnt work with the USB with Ghost 2003 and this was because Ghost didnt have the necessary drivers to get the USB BUS to function. You could be looking at a USB driver issue where the software you are using doesnt have the proper USB driver support to function properly and so its trying to use a generic driver.Thank's. I'll try to obtain first different external USB HDD first. But about software, I simply run out of ideas. I tried every one in existence I think. Are you trying to say that software needs to have proper USB drivers? Do you have any recommendations please.I think you need to try another motherboard. If another mobo still has trouble, it is not fault of the mobo. Over the years I have had a number of motherboards, some rather poor. Most of the time most of the USB devices work. But I have found that more often the failure is in the external USB device, not the motherboard. As of OS, Windows 8.1 seems to recognize almost everything USB with not need for special drives. But I had had 8.1 only for a few weeks, so I am not an expert. Quote But I have found that more often the failure is in the external USB device, not the motherboard. This is why I suggested trying a different external drive, because its usually a driver with the drive itself. As far as swapping out motherboard I would hold off on going to this extreme as for this system runs perfectly fine when Windows is running with the correct drivers. Back when I had the issue with my G-series server, the director would have had a heart attack if I said well its not working, lets spend $5000 on another server of the same model. Which would have lead to the same problems because the image software itself did not have the proper drivers to INITIALIZE the USB for functional trouble free use. One work around I probably could have done with the server would have been to buy like a StarTech PCI USB board to install and try using that for my USB communications which might work ok with the drivers that are embedded in the imaging software. Also the software that backs up to an image generally run Linux, DOS, or FreeDOS type of environment and so it doesnt matter what Windows drivers your system has as for its using its own OS and Drivers and totally independent of the OS that is being imaged. Lastly... If you have the same issue with a different make/model USB external HDD you could try installing a PCI or PCIE USB adapter which might have driver support from one of the image utilities you are trying to use. The issue with Ghost2003 and my server was likely that the G- Series server was a chipset that was far newer than the drivers as part of the Ghost 2003 package and the chipset for the USB controller did not allow for legacy generic driver support.A PCI-e USB card would be the cheapest solution... USB 3... Quote Also the software that backs up to an image generally run Linux, DOS, or FreeDOS type of environment and so it doesnt matter what Windows drivers your system has as for its using its own OS and Drivers and totally independent of the OS that is being imaged. Let me enlarge on that point. If you boot from a Linux CD and start the backup from the CD, the Linux generic drives do the job. Only a few backup programs use Windows drivers when started from a CD. (Applies also to USB.) When you do a backup in Windows, the software MAY use the installed drivers. Or maybe not. A few backup methods can not restore to a system that does not have a running OS. In which case one has to install a bare OS just to do a full restore. What about the slow down at the end of the process? A driver does not 'slow down from overwork. Only hardware does that. So that slow down problem is a symptom of a hardware issue. Specifically the hard drive. On some hard drives the inner tracks are very weak due to the higher density recording. (Lower linear speed.) Therefore more retires are needed to write and verify the inner tracks. Yes, it is the hard drive. So try another hard drive. But he will need another motherboard to convince himself it is not the motherboard. Standard procedure. Quote What about the slow down at the end of the process? A driver does not 'slow down from overwork. Only hardware does that. I have seen this before with Ghost 2003... its due to how the software calculates the speed. It will start off showing strong numbers and then dive in speed reported as calculated on the fly with data transferred over time, as the software readjusts to the average speed calculated as sensed the speed will show that it slows continually until its a trickle or next to nothing. One thing that I also forgot to mention in my other post today is that for a laptop once with Ghost 2003 sending image to external HDD, the Laptop was a Toshiba and it was new enough to be USB 2.0, however USB 2.0 selection for speed with a radio button would fail, BUT if you selected to use USB 1.1 instead it would perform the image backup of the laptop successfully although much slower than 2.0 could have performed if Ghost 2003 had the proper USB 2.0 driver to support the USB controller chip. So the 1.1 driver for USB for Ghost 2003 worked with this laptop that had a USB 2.0 BUS controller chip, but the 2.0 driver would fail to operate correctly. I am not aware of any of those other image utilities having a speed option like Ghost 2003 has, but if they do, if its just a matter of getting a successful image created you can make the selection for USB 1.1, however I have doubts that newer image software would have this option, and if there is an option at all it would be 2.0 or 3.0 these days vs 1.1. Ghost 2003 being 11 or so years old created back when 1.1 was more common on a Pentium II or Pentium III system etc and USB 2.0 was what USB 3.0 is now is probably the reason for the option for 1.1 or 2.0 for USB external drive support. Lastly another option I didnt mention yet is to install a second hard drive internally for making a clone system ready to roll within itself. Then have this other drive connected through SATA and perform a drive to drive clone. Then when done to verify that the clone was successful, disconnect the power and SATA comm cable from the primary drive and run off the newly cloned drive instead. This way if the image is bad you know before you need it, but if the image is good you know that the other initial drive inside is still known good healthy and so if you mess things up badly you can always reimage either drive from the other. The only risk here though is if you lose track of which drive is the master to clone from, in which if you mess up the order you can delete data from the good data drive making 2 corrupted data drives. I use this method for imaging on my Windows 7 systems and it works well. I have had where I installed something and found out that it had nasty stuff embedded in its installer and getting rid of the problem was simply switching to the other drive and when I have spare time sooner than later to image the healthy drive back to the problem data one. Given that this is a desktop computer this is the best option for a fast image creation and disaster recovery plan to be back up and running quickly. Using such a plan you would want any personal data stored elsewhere where its protected from infection or on another drive either internal or external + a backup solution that can recover if this data drive was ever infected or crashed etc.Give up the Ghost...plenty of other good tools out there...Hi Those transend drives have a sleep mode that starts after 10 minutes. I have found with some software it doesn't keep the drive a wake and the drive goes to sleep and the data transfer goes to 0 . Wake the drive up and away it goes again for another 10 minutes. How to fix it when using the drive for backup I don't know. Perhaps just keep the drive for data storage not for backup.

6358.

Solve : Impossible to make HDD image on external USB 2.0 HDD - to slow and stops?

Answer»

I will enclose here my complaint which I send to motherboard maker Gigabyte, regarding USB external hard disk problem. Please read it and if anybody knows how to solve this, thanks.My computer has 500GB external hard drive connected to USB 2.0 port(s), which is extremely slow. Drive is Transcend StoreJet. No DRIVERS exist for it. It works perfectly for other I/O operations like copy, paste, delete,etc. When I try to make hard disk image with any program, and store it on Transcend Store Jet, speed starts with 50MB/s but drops to nearly zero in few minutes. It is the same with any program. Disk image WOULD take more than one day to complete, if it completes at all. Actually, I never managed to finish image with any disk imaging software. I tried all usual software for that: Paragon, Aomei, Acronis, EaseusToDo, Drive XML, etc. Are there any USB or other drivers which are responsible for this issue? Can Gigabyte be serious regarding its costumers and provide them solution in order to use USB ports for most important thing (backup)? In this case, making disk image is totally impossible. USB 2.0 ports have theoretical speed of 480 Mbit/s. This is far cry from situation here. So, USB ports on this Gigabyte configuration is totally useless for backup on external USB hard disk. Clearly, there is serious bug which can cause loss of data - worst outcome in computer use for your customers. NOTE: all disks, internal HDD and external USB are checked multiple times and they do not have any errors. Hard disk has 500GB, only 137GB is occupied. BIOS and Windows can see USB disks. BIOS is upgraded to version 5-maximum. It is on Safe Default Setting. Computer was in service few days ago and they did't diagnose any faulty component. Please feel free to ask me for further questions if needed.
I'd try a different external HDD.... its probably driver related. Either a driver for the external or the USB BUS controller.

I use to run into this issue with Ghost 2003 over USB with specific no-name external enclosures I was using. When I used my 320GB Seagate it worked flawless. I also had where it would start and show a speed and then the speed would drop to next to nothing.

I also had a HP G-Series server that didnt work with the USB with Ghost 2003 and this was because Ghost didnt have the necessary drivers to get the USB BUS to function. You could be looking at a USB driver issue where the software you are using doesnt have the proper USB driver support to function properly and so its trying to use a generic driver.Thank's. I'll try to obtain first different external USB HDD first. But about software, I simply run out of ideas. I tried every one in existence I think. Are you trying to say that software needs to have proper USB drivers? Do you have any recommendations please.I think you need to try another motherboard. If another mobo still has trouble, it is not fault of the mobo. Over the years I have had a number of motherboards, some rather poor. Most of the time most of the USB devices work. But I have found that more often the failure is in the external USB device, not the motherboard.

As of OS, Windows 8.1 seems to recognize almost everything USB with not need for special drives. But I had had 8.1 only for a few weeks, so I am not an expert.
Quote

But I have found that more often the failure is in the external USB device, not the motherboard.

This is why I suggested trying a different external drive, because its usually a driver with the drive itself.

As far as swapping out motherboard I would hold off on going to this extreme as for this system runs perfectly fine when Windows is running with the correct drivers.

Back when I had the issue with my G-series server, the director would have had a heart attack if I said well its not working, lets spend $5000 on another server of the same model. Which would have lead to the same problems because the image software itself did not have the proper drivers to INITIALIZE the USB for functional trouble free use.

One work around I probably could have done with the server would have been to buy like a StarTech PCI USB board to install and try using that for my USB communications which might work ok with the drivers that are embedded in the imaging software.

Also the software that backs up to an image generally run Linux, DOS, or FreeDOS type of environment and so it doesnt matter what Windows drivers your system has as for its using its own OS and Drivers and totally independent of the OS that is being imaged.

Lastly... If you have the same issue with a different make/model USB external HDD you could try installing a PCI or PCIE USB adapter which might have driver support from one of the image utilities you are trying to use.

The issue with Ghost2003 and my server was likely that the G- Series server was a chipset that was far newer than the drivers as part of the Ghost 2003 package and the chipset for the USB controller did not allow for legacy generic driver support.A PCI-e USB card would be the cheapest solution...
USB 3... Quote

Also the software that backs up to an image generally run Linux, DOS, or FreeDOS type of environment and so it doesnt matter what Windows drivers your system has as for its using its own OS and Drivers and totally independent of the OS that is being imaged.

Let me enlarge on that point.
If you boot from a Linux CD and start the backup from the CD, the Linux generic drives do the job. Only a few backup programs use Windows drivers when started from a CD. (Applies also to USB.)
When you do a backup in Windows, the software MAY use the installed drivers. Or maybe not. A few backup methods can not restore to a system that does not have a running OS. In which case one has to install a bare OS just to do a full restore.
What about the slow down at the end of the process? A driver does not 'slow down from overwork. Only hardware does that.
So that slow down problem is a symptom of a hardware issue. Specifically the hard drive. On some hard drives the inner tracks are very weak due to the higher density recording. (Lower linear speed.) Therefore more retires are needed to write and verify the inner tracks.
Yes, it is the hard drive. So try another hard drive. But he will need another motherboard to convince himself it is not the motherboard. Standard procedure.

Quote

What about the slow down at the end of the process? A driver does not 'slow down from overwork. Only hardware does that.

I have seen this before with Ghost 2003... its due to how the software calculates the speed. It will start off showing strong numbers and then dive in speed reported as calculated on the fly with data transferred over time, as the software readjusts to the average speed calculated as sensed the speed will show that it slows continually until its a trickle or next to nothing.

One thing that I also forgot to mention in my other post today is that for a laptop once with Ghost 2003 sending image to external HDD, the Laptop was a Toshiba and it was new enough to be USB 2.0, however USB 2.0 selection for speed with a radio button would fail, BUT if you selected to use USB 1.1 instead it would perform the image backup of the laptop successfully although much slower than 2.0 could have performed if Ghost 2003 had the proper USB 2.0 driver to support the USB controller chip. So the 1.1 driver for USB for Ghost 2003 worked with this laptop that had a USB 2.0 BUS controller chip, but the 2.0 driver would fail to operate correctly.

I am not aware of any of those other image utilities having a speed option like Ghost 2003 has, but if they do, if its just a matter of getting a successful image created you can make the selection for USB 1.1, however I have doubts that newer image software would have this option, and if there is an option at all it would be 2.0 or 3.0 these days vs 1.1. Ghost 2003 being 11 or so years old created back when 1.1 was more common on a Pentium II or Pentium III system etc and USB 2.0 was what USB 3.0 is now is probably the reason for the option for 1.1 or 2.0 for USB external drive support.

Lastly another option I didnt mention yet is to install a second hard drive internally for making a clone system ready to roll within itself. Then have this other drive connected through SATA and perform a drive to drive clone. Then when done to verify that the clone was successful, disconnect the power and SATA comm cable from the primary drive and run off the newly cloned drive instead. This way if the image is bad you know before you need it, but if the image is good you know that the other initial drive inside is still known good healthy and so if you mess things up badly you can always reimage either drive from the other. The only risk here though is if you lose track of which drive is the master to clone from, in which if you mess up the order you can delete data from the good data drive making 2 corrupted data drives.

I use this method for imaging on my Windows 7 systems and it works well. I have had where I installed something and found out that it had nasty stuff embedded in its installer and getting rid of the problem was simply switching to the other drive and when I have spare time sooner than later to image the healthy drive back to the problem data one.

Given that this is a desktop computer this is the best option for a fast image creation and disaster recovery plan to be back up and running quickly.

Using such a plan you would want any personal data stored elsewhere where its protected from infection or on another drive either internal or external + a backup solution that can recover if this data drive was ever infected or crashed etc.Give up the Ghost...plenty of other good tools out there...Hi

Those transend drives have a sleep mode that starts after 10 minutes. I have found with some software it doesn't keep the drive a wake and the drive goes to sleep and the data transfer goes to 0 . Wake the drive up and away it goes again for another 10 minutes. How to fix it when using the drive for backup I don't know. Perhaps just keep the drive for data storage not for backup.

Discussion

6359.	Solve : First time build in Germany?
Answer» Hi guys, so I've been trying to put a COMPUTER together, and as a complete beginner I'm not sure all of them fit. I'm pretty sure I want to get those processor and graphics card, but I'm not sure about the motherboard and power supply. Thanks for the hlep in advance! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor (€87.90 Caseking) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-78LMT-S2 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard (€41.21 Amazon Deutschland) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (€41.89 Amazon Deutschland) Storage: Hitachi Travelstar Z7K500 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€47.70 Amazon Deutschland) Video Card: XFX Radeon R7 260X 2GB Core Edition Video Card (€107.90 Caseking) Case: Zalman ZM-T3 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (€24.94 Amazon Deutschland) Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ BRONZE Certified ATX Power Supply (€42.90 Caseking) Total: €394.44 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-28 13:35 CET+0100 http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/NhKpNGThe CPU and video card you have are fine for the price and will handle games on lower graphics SETTINGS fine, but don't expect wonders. As FAR as the other parts, I have a few pointers you may want to take into account: That motherboard is very basic and old technology,therefore it doesn't give you native SATA III or USB 3.0 support. I recommend you replace it with a board that has at least a 970 chipset. This new board would likely be ATX which unfortunately will mean you will need to pick a new case. You would get slightly better performance if you replaced the single 4gb stick of RAM with a pair of 2gb sticks as this will then run in dual channel. The hard drive you have selected is a laptop size 2.5" drive, for a desktop you should get a 3.5" one. The Corsair CX power supplies are okay, but not great. You can get SOMETHING like this that is much better quality for only a few Euro more: http://de.pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1450sx2b9

6359.

Solve : First time build in Germany?

Answer»

Hi guys, so I've been trying to put a COMPUTER together, and as a complete beginner I'm not sure all of them fit. I'm pretty sure I want to get those processor and graphics card, but I'm not sure about the motherboard and power supply. Thanks for the hlep in advance!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor (€87.90 Caseking)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-78LMT-S2 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard (€41.21 Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (€41.89 Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Hitachi Travelstar Z7K500 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€47.70 Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R7 260X 2GB Core Edition Video Card (€107.90 Caseking)
Case: Zalman ZM-T3 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (€24.94 Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ BRONZE Certified ATX Power Supply (€42.90 Caseking)
Total: €394.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-28 13:35 CET+0100

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/NhKpNGThe CPU and video card you have are fine for the price and will handle games on lower graphics SETTINGS fine, but don't expect wonders.

As FAR as the other parts, I have a few pointers you may want to take into account:

That motherboard is very basic and old technology,therefore it doesn't give you native SATA III or USB 3.0 support. I recommend you replace it with a board that has at least a 970 chipset. This new board would likely be ATX which unfortunately will mean you will need to pick a new case.
You would get slightly better performance if you replaced the single 4gb stick of RAM with a pair of 2gb sticks as this will then run in dual channel.
The hard drive you have selected is a laptop size 2.5" drive, for a desktop you should get a 3.5" one.
The Corsair CX power supplies are okay, but not great. You can get SOMETHING like this that is much better quality for only a few Euro more: http://de.pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1450sx2b9

Discussion

6360.	Solve : Laptop lights flickering?
Answer» Hello, I'm sorry to bother you (and I hope you can at least tell me what could be the reason for my problem), but I'm CURRENTLY out of money and my laptop's broken, so I'd like to try and fix it myself, if that's even possible. The lights on my laptop are FLICKERING, most of the time they're completely gone. I can't turn it on, and when I plug the AC ADAPTER in, there's no light whatsoever. Although, sometimes it's back on, or blinking. My laptop has been broken for a few days, and yesterday the light was on, and it turned on just fine! I scanned the laptop, used it for my school paper, but today it's not working again. I tried to take the battery out and try to RUN it only with the AC adapter, but it was the same story-- no light or blinking for a few seconds. I'm WONDERING what could be the reason and if it's something that can be easily fixed (doesn't look like it, but one can dream ). Any advice, please?Google this: "repair laptop power plug".

Discussion

6361.	Solve : RCA in to PC?
Answer» Greetings CH! As as university student with a very low budget but workable one. I want to have a PCI card in my Pc that will let me use a RCA on it. Like the guys in the dorms brought large televisions to play some games on the weekend and having a decent 19' monitor i THOUGHT why cant i have card that will allow me to stream RCA input through my computer using my screen? Like the old power macintosh Systems did it. So what are these cards called where can i get one and what will it cost me? I want to plug my old Xbox and maybe NES into it to enjoy a game or two on the weekends. [attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]RCA is not high definition, so the quality would be lacking. Video capture cards are what allow for an analog RCA video/audio input to a computer, so that the computer can display whatever is being played to it over the analog RCA connection. I have 2 capture cards one of which is USB connected to computer and the other is a PCI internal card. Both of them cost around $40 each and while they are great for converting some old 8mm movies from my 2003 sony camcorder to digital to make AVI or MP4 files, the quality of these is lacking. Additionally i tried using a game system connected to these and the problem is that the refresh of them is so poor that gaming controls lag to that of the joystick and what you see, such as I have one of those Atari 2600 joysticks that came out about 9 years AGO where you power it off of 4 x AA batteries and it plugs into a TV normally through RCA analog connection. When connected to a TV everything is fine and fast and responsive, but when connected through the capture card, there is lag between what the card takes in as input and displays that then to the computer display. To rule out computer lag, i even tried this on a 2nd system of mine which was more powerful a quad-core system vs the dual-core system and the symptoms of the lag in refresh and information from the game system to the display was due to the capture devices and not the speed of the system. If you want to play video games that were intended for a TV I'd look at getting a RCA to HDMI converter box and then passing that to a newer flat screen display or TV with HDMI that has a HDMI input directly that can be shared with the desktop computer. If you want to just be able to record your gaming, then you can go the route of the cheap capture card, but the quality will be poor UNLESS you can fork out hundreds of dollars for a really good studio quality card. If the games can be played on the computer itself and you want to record them you can use a software such as FRAPS to record them and then VirtualDub to compress the raw video files from say 27GB uncompressed raw video files into 1.5GB AVI or MP4 files to post to youtube etc, which is what I do for online gaming with friends. How large is your budget before I go suggesting hardware for you, and does your current display have HDMI input or not?

Discussion

6362.	Solve : None of my devices can detect any external HDD?
Answer» I have AROUND 10 external HDDs, some I use for Wii games, some for PS3 games. They are not originally external, usually taken out from PC or Laptop. Various producers (WD, Seagate...) This morning I played GTA V using one of them. I use cables for SATA/ATA HDD (adapter and the USB cable) I bought new ones few days ago so I don't think connection is problem. Besides you can hear them spinning and PC pops up message about a usb malfunctioning and in Driver Manager it shows Unkown device until I unplug it. Problem started when PS3 couldn't load HDD. It shows USB icon like it's trying to load but it's gone and it doesn't load any files. I tried other HDDs (that haven't been ever plugged in laptop or PS3) using my MAIN PC with windows xp SP3 and Norton Antivirus 2014. It doesn't load at all. Disk management also doesn't load. All devices load USB sticks without problem. But suddenly none of these HDDs can be detected (even in SEATOOLS) and I don't see a connection between these HDDs, like how did they all out of SUDDEN start behaving like this.

Discussion

6363.	Solve : 400 dollars for a computer.?
Answer» I have a 400 dollars to my name and I want to build a decent gaming tower. Can SOMEONE LINK me some parts to build this thing? I already own a copy of windows 7 home. Thanks.You aren't going to get anything decent for $400. You will need to save up more money. For $400 you could possibly get some SORT of AMD APU based system but this won't be "decent" for gaming unless you are happy running games on low graphics settings.as stated by camerongray it will not be decent but when im building budget machines i look at logical increments they show best part for your budget. [attachment deleted by admin to conserve SPACE]

Discussion

6364.	Solve : Suggestions for gaming computer components??
Answer» So Black Friday is coming up and I want to upgrade my computer to be able to basically play Skyrim at high quality at a SMOOTH 50+ fps, while right now it's averaged about 15 fps. I had a PREVIOUS topic that told me that my gpu needed upgrading and my power supply if I want a really good gpu. I'm not really sure what my gpu is what because no matter where I check it just says Intel HD Graphics. My power supply is 300W and my computer is just a basic inspiron 3000 series. Any suggestions on what gpu I should get and what power supply? I'm willing to spend up $300 for both, taking into account any sales I COULD get on the parts.What CPU do you currently have and what does your machine have in the way of case fans? Most importantly does it have an intake fan or at least a place to put one? Without upgrading your power supply, you could RUN a GeForce 750ti, this would also be fine without an intake fan. A better video card would be a GeForce 760 however this would REQUIRE some sort of case cooling (at least an intake and exhaust fan) and a power supply upgrade. Assuming the case cooling can be sorted, a power supply such as this would be ideal: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207030&cm_re=xfx_550w-_-17-207-030-_-Product.My processor is an Intel(R) Core i3-2340 CPU 3.40 GHz I'm not entirely sure which fan would be which but this is what I have as far as inside my computer. [attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]bumping in hopes of an answer I can't see a space for a front fan and if I'm honest it's probably not worth spending all that money to get a 760+PSU on that PC. Something like a 750ti would be ideal as it will work with your current PSU as it is. Just check benchmarks for the games you want to play to ensure that it is powerful enough for what you want to do.

Discussion

6365.	Solve : My mic is really quiet??
Answer» I've just re formatted my PC. It is a fairly old mobo (asus p5kc) and I've installed windows 8 which on asus' site there are no mobo DRIVERS for 8. I assumed windows updates downloaded all the required drivers anyway but for some reason my mics stupidly QUIET even on max settings. I've tried it on a laptop and works fine. Does anyone have any suggestions I can try? Thanks It needs Win8 drivers...Excuse me for SAYING but that doesn't help me too much, I've done all driver updates possible and like I mentioned asus doesn't have supported drivers for win8 on their website for my model of motherboardForgive me for stating the OBVIOUS, but your mobo wasn't designed to support Windows 8. If there are no drivers available for it you should revert to a Windows VERSION that is supported.

Discussion

6366.	Solve : Computer won't boot and I'm puzzled?
Answer» Here's my sad story (I'm using a Lenovo Z580 laptop with Windows 7): On TUES, 11/11/14 I installed all of the critical & important Windows Updates ALONG with 2 additional updates (I don't recall what the additional ones were for). After the updates completed I rebooted the machine, but the display did not come on. The lights and FAN came on, but no display. I rebooted 3 or 4 more times and nothing changed. I plugged an external monitor into the laptop but got no display on either screen. From there I spent an hour or so powering the machine completely down, removing the battery, then rebooting while trying to enter either Safe Mode with F8 or the BIOS with F2 but each time I did the computer did not respond. A friend suggested removing and REPLACING the CMOS battery. I did that, put the machine back together, but now when I push the power button the lights and fan come on for about 1 second, go off for about 8 seconds, and that cycle (1 second on, 8 seconds off) repeats until I remove the battery. I did put back the original CMOS battery and the same thing continues to happen. I've gone all over the internet for the past 2 days looking for suggestions and nothing I've found or DONE is resolving the issue. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Steve

Discussion

6367.	Solve : Gigabyte Windforce GeForce GTX 760?
Answer» Will this case and motherboard HOLD this card? CASE: Apevia X-Hermes MOBO: ASUS M5A87L Its a LONG card and i WANT to know if it will fit in this case and motherboardThe DIMENSIONS of the case are at the manuf. SITE...have you looked there ? ?

Discussion

6368.	Solve : Thoughts on PC??
Answer» http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/NvY6yc This is basically it. i'm pretty confident with it but need some opinions before i finalize it What i will use it for: Some games (example) minecraft, cod, sims 4, etc (GPU can handle these ) 3D designing and CAD programs like autodesk inventor. video editing/pictures. movie watching. and having like 15 to 20 internet tabs open most of the time. Questions: I would like to download movies from ITUNES and such. I'm wondering if the networking CARD i put in it will be slow. Thanks feel free to add stuff that i may need. my budget can stretch to $4000 Looks fine other than a couple of issues. The 450w PSU is cutting it way to close and the Corsair CSM series are low quality at best. Look at something like this: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1650gts3x or this if you require modular cabling: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-cp9020054ww. Secondly, make sure you need 32gb of RAM, RAM is not as cheap as it was a few years AGO. If you do, I'd advice you swap that Corsair Dominator stuff out for something cheaper like this: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f312800cl10q32gbxl. Corsair Dominator RAM is really overpriced, you are paying for the looks and that's about it. The performance benefit is minimal to non-existent. Also consider whether you really need the 980, you are ordering a 1080p monitor which is relatively low resolution, a 970 would be more than sufficient. Failing this, consider a higher resolution monitor, something like 1440p. 1080p on 27" is pretty horrible, 1440p will at least take advantage of the larger screen by giving you a lot of space to work. Your network card is fine although running a dedicated wire to the router will always be better than a wireless connection so do this if it is at all possible.I agree with everything you have said, i will make some changes

Discussion

6369.	Solve : Monitor shuts down by itself?
Answer» Desktop machine Windows7 Pro. 64b. Have an independent graphics CARD on motherboard. About a week ago, the monitor shut down and TURNED on again by itself, and shut down again but did not turn on this time. Since then, the monitor SHUTS down in 6 to 8 minutes after the start of the PC. Shifted video SETTING from auto to onboard in BIOS, and so also the cable. The "monitor shut down" PROBLEM has gone away. What might be the problem, please? Thanks.

Discussion

6370.	Solve : External USB Hard Drive Has 'Disappeared'?
Answer» Well I went to Best Buy and picked out a nice 2 TB drive and enclosure... And they were having a special on Toshiba 2TB units, that ended up being $45 cheaper than buying a drive and enclosure. So I figured, eh?, and bought the self-contained unit. And to think I was all excited to TRY something new, too!It could actually be the port, or maybe you dropped it on floor accidently or something like that. than it might not be recognized. Other cause could be the cable maybe, if you have out something heavy on it or something than it might be the cable, you could change the cable, but it's hard to find one that fits the specific drive. Or maybe its the PSU in your computer, maybe it doesn't supply enough power to your drive.As I mentioned in my OP, the drives have been in the exact same place - they are physically secured - for over a year. The cables are the same cables that I've been using all along. If the computer doesn't supply enough power, how would it explain that NO computers currently supply enough power, YET WEEKS ago the same computers DID supply enough power? Additionally, how would it explain that it works when the computer and drive are both moved to a different house circuit (a recent discovery, posted last Friday)? btw - Those aren't snarky questions. If they can be answered, then we're on to something. That's just good troubleshooting! Hey, it's the time of year where long-lost friends and relatives (and their attendant problems) show up on our doorstep, expecting pie and love. In that spirit, I'm resurrecting this problem child - even though I love them all the same, this one seems to be the one that gives me the most trouble. So I took none of patio's advice and have continued using the 1TB drive. However, this time, I can't claim "I did nothing". I moved the desk that my drives were secured under, which meant disturbing the drives. I unplugged them, unbundled the cords, and rebundled them - and then SET them in the exact same place, plugged into the exact same power strip, plugged into the exact same wall socket. They're under a futon now - so they're not being moved/disturbed on a daily basis, just during the furniture move. And, you guessed it, the 1TB drive isn't MOUNTING. The 80 and 160 GB are, like a charm. WHen I plug the 1TB in, it makes the "USB Connecting" sound, and its drive lights flash and do "normal" looking things - and I can hear the platter engage. But it never mounts. When I click on "Safely Remove Hardware", the drive appears to "safely remove" - but it doesn't have a drive letter, just the name of the drive ("WD 1040" or whatever). Here's what I've tried: Several USB cords All four USB (2.0 and 3.0) ports on the laptop Checking diskmgt.msc - nothing appears Gone into Device Manager - "Show Hidden Devices" - and deleted all instances of USB and WD "stuff" and rebooted I have not tried plugging in to other power circuits yet; wondering if there's anything else to try. And, yes, I know, it's time to buy a new drive on Black Friday...! Thanks [/list]Glad to hear you took none of my advice.... Also glad to hear it worked out well...Word, patio. Word.

6370.

Solve : External USB Hard Drive Has 'Disappeared'?

Answer»

Well I went to Best Buy and picked out a nice 2 TB drive and enclosure... And they were having a special on Toshiba 2TB units, that ended up being $45 cheaper than buying a drive and enclosure.

So I figured, eh?, and bought the self-contained unit.

And to think I was all excited to TRY something new, too!It could actually be the port, or maybe you dropped it on floor accidently or something like that. than it might not be recognized.
Other cause could be the cable maybe, if you have out something heavy on it or something than it might be the cable, you could change the cable, but it's hard to find one that fits the specific drive.
Or maybe its the PSU in your computer, maybe it doesn't supply enough power to your drive.As I mentioned in my OP, the drives have been in the exact same place - they are physically secured - for over a year. The cables are the same cables that I've been using all along.

If the computer doesn't supply enough power, how would it explain that NO computers currently supply enough power, YET WEEKS ago the same computers DID supply enough power? Additionally, how would it explain that it works when the computer and drive are both moved to a different house circuit (a recent discovery, posted last Friday)?

btw - Those aren't snarky questions. If they can be answered, then we're on to something. That's just good troubleshooting!

Hey, it's the time of year where long-lost friends and relatives (and their attendant problems) show up on our doorstep, expecting pie and love. In that spirit, I'm resurrecting this problem child - even though I love them all the same, this one seems to be the one that gives me the most trouble.

So I took none of patio's advice and have continued using the 1TB drive.

However, this time, I can't claim "I did nothing". I moved the desk that my drives were secured under, which meant disturbing the drives. I unplugged them, unbundled the cords, and rebundled them - and then SET them in the exact same place, plugged into the exact same power strip, plugged into the exact same wall socket. They're under a futon now - so they're not being moved/disturbed on a daily basis, just during the furniture move.

And, you guessed it, the 1TB drive isn't MOUNTING. The 80 and 160 GB are, like a charm.

WHen I plug the 1TB in, it makes the "USB Connecting" sound, and its drive lights flash and do "normal" looking things - and I can hear the platter engage. But it never mounts. When I click on "Safely Remove Hardware", the drive appears to "safely remove" - but it doesn't have a drive letter, just the name of the drive ("WD 1040" or whatever).

Here's what I've tried:

Several USB cords
All four USB (2.0 and 3.0) ports on the laptop
Checking diskmgt.msc - nothing appears
Gone into Device Manager - "Show Hidden Devices" - and deleted all instances of USB and WD "stuff" and rebooted

I have not tried plugging in to other power circuits yet; wondering if there's anything else to try.

And, yes, I know, it's time to buy a new drive on Black Friday...!

Thanks
[/list]Glad to hear you took none of my advice....

Also glad to hear it worked out well...Word, patio.

Word.

Discussion

6371.	Solve : Heatsink Question?
Answer» I am replacing my ATHLON x2 5600+ processor with an Athlon 2 x4 650. Will the x2 heatsink work for the x4 or should I get the one MADE for the x4? Generally shouldn't be an issue as both CPUs should dissipate a similar amount of heat. Just make sure you apply new thermal paste and CLEAN the heatsink of any built up dust to maximise its cooling ability, and monitor your temperatures once you've swapped the CPUs over to make sure it's not overheating.Thank You! Are all thermal pastes about equal or are some better than OTHERS?I like ARCTIC Silver products as for they dont dry up quickly. Some of the cheaper thermal compounds dry up and then your temp will spike as the paste is now a dry powder lacking a thermal bond between CPU and Heatsink surfaces.People say there's no difference between products...Bunk...Arctic Silver is the best out there...I noticed that last time I removed a processor that the paste was completely cracked and dry. Thanks for that tip!

Discussion

6372.	Solve : Corrupt HDD??
Answer» Hi, I seem to be having an issue with an OLD HDD of MINE.. It's been working fine for years until now.. It's a WD 1TB Sata HDD..Running on a Desktop PC running Windows XP Professional Basically I've always used it as a storage drive, never had windows installed on it, so just used for extra space on my desktop pc.. But now my computer wont recognize it, although if I press F8 on boot to load boot up choices.. it shows there are two HDD PLUGGED in, but once windows has booted there's only 1 HDD shown.. Is my HDD done for.. is there some way to fix this? I know all the cables are working fine because it loads another HDD I have just fine, so don't really understand the problem. Thank you in advance for reading. Any Hard Drive can fail at any time. Older onus more often. Hard Drive Tests You can look over the posts given in the above page. If the page above does not answer your questions, come back here.CrystalDiskInfo can be run on the drive to read the SMART data etc from it. http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html ( The standard edition downloaded as a zip is what I use ). With both drives connected it should report info for both drives. If you need to recover data from the drive such as if file tables are broken, I use a tool called GetDataBack NTFS which works really well, although its free to try and buy to recover data. The free trial will show you file names that you can see are your own, but in order to get your data recovered you have to buy a registered copy. I am not aware of any good free ones. https://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm I bought this software a few years ago and fortunately only had to use it 3 times since buying it since drives rarely crash, but I was able to recover most of the data with exception to part of the drive that was damaged which was causing the drive to have the clunk of death. It took about a week for a spare Pentium II computer to recover about 8GB of a 12GB laptop HDD where the laptop drive was making the click, click, click, click noise, and somehow this software was able to read the platters and reassemble the data from the damaged drive to a healthy 20GB IDE HDD running Windows XP SP1 without any PATCHES offline.Hi, Chammiez Can you see your drive in Disk Management and Device Manager? Are there any notification in Device Manager, showing that there is something going on with the drive? If you need a diagnostic tool, I advise you to use the WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostics. You can download it from the link below. I would try to connect the drive to another PC or use a Linux Live CD to access the data and back it up. Really, a hard drive may fail at any time as any other mechanical device. Keep a backup copy of your data just to be safe and prepared for every situation. http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=810&sid=3&lang=en – Data Lifeguard Diagnostics Hope this helps censored, I apologize for not getting back to this POST.. I totally forgot I posted it here, I also brought a HDD dock, and still didn't work.. but this did allow me to notice the HDD is making a noise as if starting up. along with the ticking noise, I didn't notice this before.. But when put into the desktop, it doesn't show in device manager or Disk Management, but it can be seen on the 'Boot Order' on start up.. but it's no name like.. 1. (random letters and numbers) 2. 3. CD Drive Clicking on 2 does nothing it just says verifying blah blah system can not boot. I've tried a few data recovery programmes and they don't find that hard drive.. If it's clicking, would me taking it apart a looking inside help atall... or will this just screw it up even further? Installing a new hard drive is not hard. But there are some things you need. Some kind of backup that can restore your system. Original install discs for the OS and applications. Copies of important documents, photos and other material you created. Hard rives under 1 TB are now very economical and are good values. While SDD is desirable, the cost is often more that what many want to pay. At the end of the day you want: - A reliable System drive as the main storage drive. - A backup drive and can be powered down when not needed. It is seldom piratical doing a 'restore' of an old failing drive. I know how to, have done it, worked industry, and don't recommend it. Just buy new certified hard drives. Saves time and headaches.

Discussion

6373.	Solve : I want to build an EPIC Gaming PC Setup.?
Answer» I have never built my own computer before. I want to start now and go all out on my first build. The past 2 days i have looked into it, i have some knowledge of computers and how they work but the more i look into it the more i get confused. Im a experienced gamer and i want to expand on my set up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlG2p-6oVpQ This video is what set me off on this quest. Money is not a problem for me, OBVIOUSLY dont want to be spending way to much then i should. I just dont know where to start. The looks of my set up is just as important to me as the build itself. So far i know for a fact that i want the curved HD monitors as shown in the video above. I have also chosen the case i want to use because of the looks and make i am in love with. http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-systems/h440 I started looking around and there are so many different combos i can use, some a really expensive and just seem pointless in buying. Im really stuck on where to start and whats best for my set up. I just need a little push in the right direction. As i SAID i have only been looking into this for 2 days. Well, you first need to decide on a budget for the PC itself, impossible to do anything without it. You could then use pcpartpicker.com to build up a list of parts you can link here. Take care with bundles as they are often used to sell less popular/inferior parts, this is what i have so far, looked at pc way to much today. off out for a drink. any help from anyone is much apreciated i will defo be back tomorrow and thanks for everyone helping me so farAs I said here, we need a budget to work with and as I said on chat, LGA 2011 is overkill for gaming. 32gb of RAM is also very expensive so don't get that unless you actually have a proper use for it. When it comes to PCPartPicker, link the "permalink" on the page in your post RATHER than a screenshot as it allows us to edit it and see it easier. Quote from: camerongray on November 15, 2014, 09:34:02 AM As I said here, we need a budget to work with and as I said on chat, LGA 2011 is overkill for gaming. 32gb of RAM is also very expensive so don't get that unless you actually have a proper use for it. When it comes to PCPartPicker, link the "permalink" on the page in your post rather than a screenshot as it allows us to edit it and see it easier. budget, 3000 pounds willing to spend more, not really fussed. No idea where to start, if it killer for games then why is it a gaming motherboard? So confused. what your ideal set up be for that type of money? On my thread on dead stuck on the 3 monitor set up and the case, i know i want them.Idealy i wanted intel but if AMD is a better option then i shall go that way.edit: just found this http://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/H97PRO_GAMER/Do you actually have any intention of building this, £3000 but not fussed if more doesn't sound very serious, no matter how much someone has to spend, they will at LEAST have a reasonable budget. You will need to do more research into what other people have to get ideas for your own system, you can't just keep asking about random parts.It's gonna be Epic.....

6373.

Solve : I want to build an EPIC Gaming PC Setup.?

Answer»

I have never built my own computer before. I want to start now and go all out on my first build. The past 2 days i have looked into it, i have some knowledge of computers and how they work but the more i look into it the more i get confused. Im a experienced gamer and i want to expand on my set up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlG2p-6oVpQ

This video is what set me off on this quest. Money is not a problem for me, OBVIOUSLY dont want to be spending way to much then i should. I just dont know where to start. The looks of my set up is just as important to me as the build itself. So far i know for a fact that i want the curved HD monitors as shown in the video above. I have also chosen the case i want to use because of the looks and make i am in love with. http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-systems/h440

I started looking around and there are so many different combos i can use, some a really expensive and just seem pointless in buying. Im really stuck on where to start and whats best for my set up. I just need a little push in the right direction. As i SAID i have only been looking into this for 2 days. Well, you first need to decide on a budget for the PC itself, impossible to do anything without it. You could then use pcpartpicker.com to build up a list of parts you can link here. Take care with bundles as they are often used to sell less popular/inferior parts,

this is what i have so far, looked at pc way to much today. off out for a drink. any help from anyone is much apreciated i will defo be back tomorrow and thanks for everyone helping me so farAs I said here, we need a budget to work with and as I said on chat, LGA 2011 is overkill for gaming. 32gb of RAM is also very expensive so don't get that unless you actually have a proper use for it.

When it comes to PCPartPicker, link the "permalink" on the page in your post RATHER than a screenshot as it allows us to edit it and see it easier. Quote from: camerongray on November 15, 2014, 09:34:02 AM

As I said here, we need a budget to work with and as I said on chat, LGA 2011 is overkill for gaming. 32gb of RAM is also very expensive so don't get that unless you actually have a proper use for it.

When it comes to PCPartPicker, link the "permalink" on the page in your post rather than a screenshot as it allows us to edit it and see it easier.

budget, 3000 pounds willing to spend more, not really fussed. No idea where to start, if it killer for games then why is it a gaming motherboard? So confused. what your ideal set up be for that type of money?

On my thread on dead stuck on the 3 monitor set up and the case, i know i want them.Idealy i wanted intel but if AMD is a better option then i shall go that way.edit: just found this http://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/H97PRO_GAMER/Do you actually have any intention of building this, £3000 but not fussed if more doesn't sound very serious, no matter how much someone has to spend, they will at LEAST have a reasonable budget.

You will need to do more research into what other people have to get ideas for your own system, you can't just keep asking about random parts.It's gonna be Epic.....

Discussion

6374.	Solve : Any Suggestions on what parts I can use from old computer to make new computer.?
Answer» I currently have an old Dell XPS 8000 that I bought back in 2009. It has been a great computer but, it is starting to get slow. I was Just CURIOUS if anyone could make suggestions on what parts I could use to from this old Dell XPS 8000. I currently use Windows 7 and my system runs an Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 860 2.80Gz. Also I have 8 GB of memory with a Seagate 1 TB HARD Drive. The Video Card is an NVIDIA GeForce GT 520. I was hoping someone would have suggestion on what I hardware I should UPGRADE as well as what hardware I should use from my old computer. Also if I were to upgrade hardware, like a better CPU/Motherboard/Tower, will the components from my old system work with the new components like the hard drive, RAM, optical drive and graphics card. I would like to use this computer for playing games or school work. Please give me suggestions and THANK you for your time.Video Card for that system is crippling the performance. CPU and RAM is plenty for most games out there so no motherboard upgrade required. I'd invest into a better video card than the GT 520 which is weak in todays standards. Also if you want speed, you can add a SSD drive to the system and have that as your OS drive, and if you get one that is say 128GB or larger you can even have games installed to that drive for fast load times. I had added SSD drives to my older systems and it noticeably increased performance with faster boot to desktop and games launch much faster that are located on the SSD. The biggest thing slowing down that system is that you need a better video card. I wouldnt throw any money into motherboard, CPU, or RAM as for they are still a good match for a modern gaming rig with the Core i7. Lastly system lag has a tendency to build over time with systems in which a system that hasnt been rebuilt in over a year that has had software added/removed etc will start to become inefficient. So backing up your data to an external drive and then wiping the system clean and rebuilding from scratch can make a laggy system run like new again. Which reminds me that I should actually rebuild this one system that I am on now because it hasnt been rebuilt in about 18 months and lots of games and software added/removed and its not as peppy as it was when clean build. This time around with the clean build though I am going to create an image of my system to restore it back to a clean state so that next time I wipe it clean, i wont have to go through the manual rebuild process. Thank you so much for your advice. No Problem.... with a much better video card you will notice improvement in performance for games etc. The one thing to be careful of when adding a new video card to an older system, is the current PSU going to be able to handle it?

Discussion

6375.	Solve : display goes off and PC stuck?
Answer» Hi GUYS, I just ran into a problem. I have windows 8.1 and FOXCONN g31 mb. The PC was working well but suddenly there were lines forming on the SCREEN. Different colors like there's some video DRIVER error. But the PC too is stuck and I had to manual restart. Now,the monitor brightness goes on and low and high and the screen freezes regularly along with PC. Onboard vid ? ?...or a card ?Onboard VGAMBoard is goin BAD then...FoxConn aren't real good quality wise... How old is it ? P.S....if it has a slot adding a vid card is a cheaper solution...Yes It has a VGA card slot. FYI, I bought this MB from a Sale. Even if I put in the VGA card, would the MB go making up problems?

Discussion

6376.	Solve : No Wifi after unexpected shutdown?
Answer» I have an issue where I am not able to connect to my wireless internet after COMPUTER unexpectedly shutdown. Laptop Model: Hp G62-B31EE Any Help would be appreciated? P.S I can see the wireless adapter in the device manager and I have tried to reset the IPv4 and WINSOCK entries. Thanks In Advance Correction I cannot see the NETWORK adaptor unless I plug in a cable Is there any yellow warnings symbols in device manager, have you accidentally switched off the wireless adapter (try PRESSING F12 see if that WORKS ) No. None and the wireless F12 BUTTON indicates that it is ON Quote I have tried to reset the IPv4 and WINSOCK entries. This may be the issue...what did you do exactly ? ? Also...are you saying the wireless connection no longer shows in Network Connections ? ? Well This only Happened before I reset the IPv4 and Winsock entries and what happens at the moment is that when I disconnect the LAN Cable I cannot find any wireless connections.

6376.

Solve : No Wifi after unexpected shutdown?

Answer»

I have an issue where I am not able to connect to my wireless internet after COMPUTER unexpectedly shutdown.
Laptop Model: Hp G62-B31EE
Any Help would be appreciated?
P.S I can see the wireless adapter in the device manager and I have tried to reset the IPv4 and WINSOCK entries.
Thanks In Advance
Correction I cannot see the NETWORK adaptor unless I plug in a cable
Is there any yellow warnings symbols in device manager, have you accidentally switched off the wireless adapter (try PRESSING F12 see if that WORKS ) No. None and the wireless F12 BUTTON indicates that it is ON
Quote

I have tried to reset the IPv4 and WINSOCK entries.

This may be the issue...what did you do exactly ? ?
Also...are you saying the wireless connection no longer shows in Network Connections ? ?
Well This only Happened before I reset the IPv4 and Winsock entries and what happens at the moment is that when I disconnect the LAN Cable I cannot find any wireless connections.

Discussion

6377.	Solve : Surface??
Answer» Quote from: rjbinney on December 09, 2014, 07:14:12 PM Does the clip on keyboard need to be actively clipped on? Could I put the screen on the desk, and the keyboard in my lap? The keyboard needs to be attached in order to work. However, you can buy an adapter that the attaches to the keyboard that essentially turns it into a Bluetooth keyboard or you could use a Bluetooth keyboard.strollin, you answered the question. That fact that a Bluetooth adapter has to be added means it does not have one. Some say the surface Surface Pro 3 keyboard is near worthless. Just now this come up on the radar. 5 Reasons Surface Pro 3 Shouldn’t Replace Your Laptop Quote My issues with the Surface Pro’s keyboard are that it’s loud (annoyingly so), too bouncy and not very comfortable. That’s partly because Microsoft crams full-size keys into a space that’s considerably smaller than an ultraportable laptop. For instance, the AIR’s layout is 10.75 inches across, COMPARED to 10.25 for the Surface Pro 3. The result is a serviceable but more cramped typing experience. To be fair, though, there’s only so much stability and comfort you can provide in a cover with so little weight. Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 10, 2014, 05:10:28 AM strollin, you answered the question. That fact that a Bluetooth adapter has to be added means it does not have one. Some say the surface Surface Pro 3 keyboard is near worthless. Just now this come up on the radar. 5 Reasons Surface Pro 3 Shouldn’t Replace Your Laptop I don't understand the bolded statement above. What are you saying the Surface doesn't have? I wouldn't CONSIDER the keyboard to be near worthless, it's very handy and works great, IMO. I know lots of PEOPLE complain that you can't use it in your lap but in the 20 years I've owned and used laptops, I've yet to use one in my lap. I always use my laptops while sitting at a table or desk. If I want to use my Surface when there is no table or desk nearby, then I use it in TABLET mode.If the keyboard had Bluetooth, there would be no market of Bluetooth adapters for that keyboard. Some persons might want a unit that comes with remote keyboard. Such could be useful in live presentations in front of a small audience.

6377.

Solve : Surface??

Answer»

Quote from: rjbinney on December 09, 2014, 07:14:12 PM

Does the clip on keyboard need to be actively clipped on?

Could I put the screen on the desk, and the keyboard in my lap?

The keyboard needs to be attached in order to work. However, you can buy an adapter that the attaches to the keyboard that essentially turns it into a Bluetooth keyboard or you could use a Bluetooth keyboard.strollin, you answered the question. That fact that a Bluetooth adapter has to be added means it does not have one.
Some say the surface Surface Pro 3 keyboard is near worthless.
Just now this come up on the radar.
5 Reasons Surface Pro 3 Shouldn’t Replace Your Laptop

Quote

My issues with the Surface Pro’s keyboard are that it’s loud (annoyingly so), too bouncy and not very comfortable. That’s partly because Microsoft crams full-size keys into a space that’s considerably smaller than an ultraportable laptop. For instance, the AIR’s layout is 10.75 inches across, COMPARED to 10.25 for the Surface Pro 3. The result is a serviceable but more cramped typing experience. To be fair, though, there’s only so much stability and comfort you can provide in a cover with so little weight.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 10, 2014, 05:10:28 AM

strollin, you answered the question. That fact that a Bluetooth adapter has to be added means it does not have one.
Some say the surface Surface Pro 3 keyboard is near worthless.
Just now this come up on the radar.
5 Reasons Surface Pro 3 Shouldn’t Replace Your Laptop

I don't understand the bolded statement above. What are you saying the Surface doesn't have?

I wouldn't CONSIDER the keyboard to be near worthless, it's very handy and works great, IMO. I know lots of PEOPLE complain that you can't use it in your lap but in the 20 years I've owned and used laptops, I've yet to use one in my lap. I always use my laptops while sitting at a table or desk. If I want to use my Surface when there is no table or desk nearby, then I use it in TABLET mode.If the keyboard had Bluetooth, there would be no market of Bluetooth adapters for that keyboard.

Some persons might want a unit that comes with remote keyboard. Such could be useful in live presentations in front of a small audience.

Discussion

6378.	Solve : Kernel-Power Event 41 error?
Answer» Why the heck do they call that "mini-tool box" ? ? Longest reports i've ever seen... Quote from: jason2074 on November 07, 2014, 04:58:01 PM I would try a different BRANDED power supply at this point as the GIGABYTE PSU is not good on rail wattage outputs. The minimum requirements for your card is 450 to 500 watts 24 amps on the +12 rail voltage. I'm gonna leave my pc and see if it restarts again after I updated those drivers, If it did, i'm get my self either COOLER master or corsair psu to replace mine.. Thanks for your help and time. Quote from: jason2074 on November 07, 2014, 04:58:01 PM I would try a different branded power supply at this point as the Gigabyte PSU is not good on rail wattage outputs. The minimum requirements for your card is 450 to 500 watts 24 amps on the +12 rail voltage. I was playing and streaming at the same time, then my screen went black for a second and my application bar ( the bar that has start button on it) changed color to blue and in few seconds after that my PC restarted .. :/ I'm really getting frustrated of not knowing what to change to fix this Quote from: oratex on November 08, 2014, 07:42:06 AM i'm get my self either cooler master or corsair psu to replace mine.. Just a bit of advice - Coolermaster PSUs are very hit-or-miss, not something I'd ever recommend. You are fine with Corsair (although ideally not their VS or CX lines) and XFX, Seasonic, SuperFlower and Antec are also good options. For your system, any good quality 550w or more unit will be enough. Quote from: camerongray on November 08, 2014, 05:43:28 PM Just a bit of advice - Coolermaster PSUs are very hit-or-miss, not something I'd ever recommend. You are fine with Corsair (although ideally not their VS or CX lines) and XFX, Seasonic, SuperFlower and Antec are also good options. For your system, any good quality 550w or more unit will be enough. Yeah I read some reviews and was going with Corsair, since they are the most trusted.. but is there a way I COULD make sure this problem is from my PSU? I'm gonna be so sad if i replace it and still get this problem :/Only thing you can really do is to borrow another PSU and see if it works. Alternatively most good PSU shops will be happy to test your PC with a different PSU for a small charge. Quote from: camerongray on November 08, 2014, 06:35:11 PM Only thing you can really do is to borrow another PSU and see if it works. Alternatively most good PSU shops will be happy to test your PC with a different PSU for a small charge. the problem is, this restart happens randomly so like they need to test it for a week or a month.. its totally random :/ , I'll see what i can doI just bought a new PSU, I'm gonna try it tomorrow and let you guys know if that fixed my error.. I HOPE that it does.. fingers crossed update: After i changed my psu, I streamed for more than an hour and recorded at same time, tried to pressure as much as before, so far its working well. I hope it stays like this. (This might be the solution to the problem) but i need time to make sure.Update: even after changing PSU, the problem did not get fixed.. I'm so frustrated and I really give up because there is no solution for this problem other than buying a new PC.. only fix.. problem solved after buying a new motherboard and cpu. (Basically a new pc), thanks for helping everyone.

6378.

Solve : Kernel-Power Event 41 error?

Answer»

Why the heck do they call that "mini-tool box" ? ?

Longest reports i've ever seen... Quote from: jason2074 on November 07, 2014, 04:58:01 PM

I would try a different BRANDED power supply at this point as the GIGABYTE PSU is not good on rail wattage outputs. The minimum requirements for your card is 450 to 500 watts 24 amps on the +12 rail voltage.

I'm gonna leave my pc and see if it restarts again after I updated those drivers, If it did, i'm get my self either COOLER master or corsair psu to replace mine..
Thanks for your help and time. Quote from: jason2074 on November 07, 2014, 04:58:01 PM

I would try a different branded power supply at this point as the Gigabyte PSU is not good on rail wattage outputs. The minimum requirements for your card is 450 to 500 watts 24 amps on the +12 rail voltage.

I was playing and streaming at the same time, then my screen went black for a second and my application bar ( the bar that has start button on it) changed color to blue and in few seconds after that my PC restarted .. :/ I'm really getting frustrated of not knowing what to change to fix this Quote from: oratex on November 08, 2014, 07:42:06 AM

i'm get my self either cooler master or corsair psu to replace mine..

Just a bit of advice - Coolermaster PSUs are very hit-or-miss, not something I'd ever recommend. You are fine with Corsair (although ideally not their VS or CX lines) and XFX, Seasonic, SuperFlower and Antec are also good options.

For your system, any good quality 550w or more unit will be enough. Quote from: camerongray on November 08, 2014, 05:43:28 PM

Just a bit of advice - Coolermaster PSUs are very hit-or-miss, not something I'd ever recommend. You are fine with Corsair (although ideally not their VS or CX lines) and XFX, Seasonic, SuperFlower and Antec are also good options.

For your system, any good quality 550w or more unit will be enough.

Yeah I read some reviews and was going with Corsair, since they are the most trusted.. but is there a way I COULD make sure this problem is from my PSU? I'm gonna be so sad if i replace it and still get this problem :/Only thing you can really do is to borrow another PSU and see if it works. Alternatively most good PSU shops will be happy to test your PC with a different PSU for a small charge. Quote from: camerongray on November 08, 2014, 06:35:11 PM

Only thing you can really do is to borrow another PSU and see if it works. Alternatively most good PSU shops will be happy to test your PC with a different PSU for a small charge.

the problem is, this restart happens randomly so like they need to test it for a week or a month.. its totally random :/ , I'll see what i can doI just bought a new PSU, I'm gonna try it tomorrow and let you guys know if that fixed my error.. I HOPE that it does.. fingers crossed update: After i changed my psu, I streamed for more than an hour and recorded at same time, tried to pressure as much as before, so far its working well. I hope it stays like this. (This might be the solution to the problem) but i need time to make sure.Update: even after changing PSU, the problem did not get fixed.. I'm so frustrated and I really give up because there is no solution for this problem other than buying a new PC.. only fix.. problem solved after buying a new motherboard and cpu. (Basically a new pc), thanks for helping everyone.

Discussion

6379.	Solve : Is This Type of Computer Good for Gaming??
Answer» HI everyone. So I am new to laptops and processing systems and that stuff, but I want to know if: HP ProBook 4530s 15.6" Notebook (2.30 GHz Intel Core i3-2350M, 4 GB RAM, 500 GB Hard Drive, DVD+/-RW SuperMulti Drive, WINDOWS 7 Home Premium 64-bit) is good with games like Minecraft, Garry's mod, FNAF, and animating minecraft softwares. It's stats are: Screen Size 15.6 inches Screen Resolution 1600 x 900 MAX Screen Resolution 1600 x 900 Processor 2.3 GHz Core i3-2350M RAM 4 GB DDR3 Hard Drive 500 GB mechanical_hard_drive Graphics Coprocessor Intel HD Graphics 3000 Wireless TYPE 802.11bgn Number of USB 2.0 Ports 3 So yeah, sorry about my lack of knowledge but I'd love to know. Thanks! The 4530s was and is a pretty good laptop, we have quite a lot at work and IMO they're excellent, very sturdy. The models with integrated Intel graphics are not however designed for gaming, they'll handle older games more or less OK but if you can, look for a laptop with a dedicated GPU - the 4530s did come with AMD graphics options so you may be able to find one. I will say two things though - the 4530s is a few years old so I would hope it's not too expensive, and laptops are not really ideal for gaming, I would advise a desktop unless you absolutely need the mobility.OK, I took callum's advice and now I'm asking if this is good for games like mine craft, Garry's mod, animating and recording softwares Toshiba Satellite 15.6-Inch Laptop (Intel Core i5 processor, 8 GB DDR3 memory, 1000GB Hard drive, Windows 7 64-bit Stats: Intel Core i5 Processor, 8GB Ram, 1000GB Hard Drive 15.6-Inch LED Backlit Screen, Mobile Intel HD graphics Windows 7 Professional 64-bit HDMI, Memory Card Reader, USB 3.0,DVD/CD,WIFI Lithium Ion (45Wh, 4-Cell) I've merged your topics and moved the thread to the hardware forum. Again, the system you're proposing has Intel integrated graphics, which aren't amazing for gaming. Try to look for a system with AMD or Nvidia dedicated graphics as opposed to Intel graphics.I have an ASUS laptop with Mobile Intel HD 3000 graphics and it is able to play games like Minecraft and World of Warcraft, however its not the best at running them. There is OCCASIONAL frame lag because the GPU is not really well suited for gaming. As Calum stated one with an AMD or nVidia dedicated GPU would be better, however run it by us here before buying. I have a Toshiba laptop from 2009 that is a Athlon Dual-core with AMD dedicated GPU and it plays games way better than the ASUS with the Intel HD 3000 GPU. I was hoping that the newer ASUS would replace the Toshiba for gaming, but I overestimated the Intel HD 3000's capabilities. While the new laptop is able to game, its not as smooth running as the Toshiba that is 5 years old for games that I play.

Discussion

6380.	Solve : i can't format my trancend 4 gb pen drive.?
Answer» it doesn't say that it is write protected. but when i PLUGGED it in to my pc it says only 2.4mb is available. in every O"Services it says same thing. i checked it using disk MANAGEMENT in windows XP ,7,and 8.1. there were unallocated 960 mb and then (healthy)2.4mb & then again unallocated 3Gb.... how can i fix it? i formatted it but just only 2.4Mb is formatingDownload http://www.transcend-info.com/Support/Software-2thanks... i'm trying it ... i'll tell you when i got it right... jason...i can't download it right now .... it is not loading.... Generic flash drive probably? Try this http://en.kioskea.net/download/download-127-hp-usb-disk-storage-format-toolthanks... i'll try it as soon as I can....thanks....Do let us know of the RESULTS. i downloaded the software and i will check it today.... i'll tell all of u soooon.... here I can see my pen, when i connected it to the computer........... [attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Why ExFAT ? ?jason....thanks..... it is working..... i got my 4GB back....how did you know that is working on my pen? any way...thank you soooo much....k... Quote from: patio on December 09, 2014, 06:48:03 AM Why ExFAT ? ? Why NOT ExFAT? Some report it is a BETTER choice for USB devices. One of many: Why not exFAT? Quote store the pictures and videos taken from my phone's camera onto the external SD card. If I format it to FAT32 will it limit the maximum size of the videos to 4GBs? Yes the 4gb FILE size is a limitation of the fat32 file system. Read the whole article above to understand what the are talking about. Basically, Microsoft does not endorse ExFAT.

6380.

Solve : i can't format my trancend 4 gb pen drive.?

Answer»

it doesn't say that it is write protected. but when i PLUGGED it in to my pc it says only 2.4mb is available. in every O"Services it says same thing. i checked it using disk MANAGEMENT in windows XP ,7,and 8.1. there were unallocated 960 mb and then (healthy)2.4mb & then again unallocated 3Gb.... how can i fix it?
i formatted it but just only 2.4Mb is formatingDownload http://www.transcend-info.com/Support/Software-2thanks... i'm trying it ... i'll tell you when i got it right... jason...i can't download it right now .... it is not loading....
Generic flash drive probably? Try this http://en.kioskea.net/download/download-127-hp-usb-disk-storage-format-toolthanks... i'll try it as soon as I can....thanks....Do let us know of the RESULTS. i downloaded the software and i will check it today.... i'll tell all of u soooon.... here I can see my pen, when i connected it to the computer...........

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Why ExFAT ? ?jason....thanks..... it is working..... i got my 4GB back....how did you know that is working on my pen? any way...thank you soooo much....k... Quote from: patio on December 09, 2014, 06:48:03 AM

Why ExFAT ? ?

Why NOT ExFAT?
Some report it is a BETTER choice for USB devices.
One of many:

Why not exFAT?
Quote

store the pictures and videos taken from my phone's camera onto the external SD card. If I format it to FAT32 will it limit the maximum size of the videos to 4GBs?
Yes the 4gb FILE size is a limitation of the fat32 file system.

Read the whole article above to understand what the are talking about.
Basically, Microsoft does not endorse ExFAT.

Discussion

6381.	Solve : Display things on my TV to my laptop, my laptop to my TV??
Answer» Right. So I got this idea. My current setup is I have my laptop directly infront of me on a small stand. I use it most of the time for gaming and general use. My TV is on the other side of the room, with my PS3 connected to it (via HDMI). My vision isn't really good, so when I go to play a game on my PS3, seeing finer details (such as the sniper in the bush 200 yards away) is HARD. So my first idea was to set it up so that instead of my PS3's display going to my TV, it going to my laptop (which has an HDMI port), since the screen is right in front of me anyway. However; I still want to be able to alt-tab back to my desktop freely because I want to be able to change my music and what not while I'm playing. My second idea, to try to help against the switching music and what not is to then put my laptops display on my TV. Now, I know that should be possible, however; I only have one HDMI port on my laptop. So I don't know how I could set up both of these things. That being said, is it possible to stream my PS3 gameplay to my laptop via HDMI while still being able to access my OS so I can change playlists in iTunes and message people on skype? If so, do you have a BASIC tutorial on how to do it? Simple answer is no. But they do make mufti media swish devices for about $300. That may be more than what you want to pay.HDMI port on your laptop is output only so you can't use it as an input. There is a WAY to do what you want using a device called an Easy Cap: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019SSSMY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002H3BSCM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=076Z0PBFA2GHHJ7WMP10. It's a video capture device that you can use to capture the output of the PS3 and bring into your laptop via the USB port. Here's a YouTube video that shows how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tr9XGvldziUUnfortunately EasyCap won't ALLOW me to stream it HD to my laptop. Was the plan, to get image quality like my TV but closer. Yeah, $300 is a bit too much. If I'm gonna spend that much I should just spend it on the new glasses and HOPEFULLY see the TV better xD

Discussion

6382.	Solve : Computer specifications?
Answer» I wanna buy new computer up to 500 euro. Please can somebody tell me is this good specs? -MB FM2+ A88X Gigabyte G1.Sniper A88X, -Thermalteke Commander MS-II, -DDR 3 8GB 1600MHz Kingston, -HDD Sata 3 1TB WD Green 64MB, -APU FM2 AMD A10-5800K 3.8 GHz Radeon HD 7660D BLACK edition, -AMD Radeon 7770 ASUS 1GB 128bit 1GD5, -600W Chieftec And can i play all new games with this graphic card? Thank to reply.The CPU and GPU aren't bad, although I would go with at least a 2gb GPU. If you want to check, google CPU, GPU, RAM, etc. BENCHMARKS to SEE how they line up to othersWhere will you be buying this PC from, so we can check pricing and what's available? As it stands that's not a build I would recommend. What's your budget and what will you be using the PC for?

Discussion

6383.	Solve : Stuck on BIOS Utility page?
Answer» Hello, Need HELP. I got a new PC. Prebuilt gaming one. NEVER had one before. When I booted up the PC, it takes me to the BIOS Utility page. I checked everything to make sure it was secured, looked good. Checked the Ram both one at a time, exact same thing. Hardware seems connected fine? Not sure what else I should do. Here is some of the specs. Thanks CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-4790K 4.0 GHz 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1150 HDD: 128GB SanDisk SSD + 2TB SATA III Hard Drive Combo (Combo Drive) MEMORY: 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3/2133MHz Dual Channel Memory (ADATA XPG V3) MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Z97-P ATX w/ GbLAN, 2 PCIe x16, 2 PCIe x1, 2 PCI, 4X SATA 6Gb/s (Pro OC Certified) OS: Microsoft® Windows 8.1 (64-bit Edition) + OFFICE 365 FREE 30 Days Trial POWERSUPPLY: 600 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750Ti 2GB GDDR5 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card (Single Card)Since it's new, speak to the manufacturer, you will have a warranty.

Discussion

6384.	Solve : Display full screen video players on a TV via HDMI?
Answer» Righto. So here's what I have set up. I have my laptop connected to my TV in an extended mode. What I'm trying to do is make it so that I can watch Twitch Streams, YouTube videos and basically various forms of video media using different types of players but do this all full screen on my TV. While at the same time being able to use my laptop regularly so that I can work on homework and what not. The problem? Well, whenever I full screen a video, regardless of full screening it on either display, it always full screens the video on my laptop and I can't move the full screen over to the TV display (or at least I don't know how because trying to drag it over doesn't work). I've tried setting my TV as my "main display". But that hasn't helped. Any suggestions? Edit: Update. Found a pseudo change. What I noticed that when I right clicked on the video, the menu appeared on the laptop and not on my TV. So I created a brand new TAB and before I loaded that PAGE containing the video, I moved it over. Then I loaded the video and it full screens there. But now theres a new problem. Now because it's full screened there, it won't let me use my desktop because if I click on my laptop display, it minimizes the full screen display. Thus eliminating the point of the setup. Any ideas?Sorry I don't have the quick and easy answer. Part of the issues is screen resolution. Video streams vary in resolution and FRAME rate. A work around is to use another device t o stream to the TV set. - A wireless HDMI to TV interface, like chrome cast or one of the others: http://www.tescotechsupport.com/feature/5-awesome-alternatives-to-google-chromecast/ Or a MP4 player to feed direct to your TV analog input. I found a solution to the problem. What I found was that I needed to COMBINE 2 of my tested solutions together to get the solution. First, I made sure that the page containing the player of the video I wanted to watch loaded on the TV, it would load the player to that screen. So full screening would do so there. But if I clicked away from it it would close the full screen. So the next step. I had to set my TV as the main display. Couldn't find another way around that. As long as I do it like that, so far each player I've tried has works. It's a bit unfortunate because it causes new applications/links to load ONTO my TV. But for most cases I can just simply move them over to the right screen. Follow up question though: My laptop only has 1 HDMI port and I kinda wanted to throw my desktop's monitor into the mix so I could use that as well. Any suggestions? Isn't there another cable I have to use?Glad you got it to wok and thanks for sharing. HDMI is the better choice, but you can have good quality even over oldert types of interface. But for older TV sets HDMI is not an option. Most laptops support only two monitors and one has to be the internal display. For desktop PCs, four and even five display are possible. A common use fort a second display with a laptop is for a presentation before a large audience. A portable laptop with a powerful projector and screen give performance like a small theater. You just have to provide the popcorn. The link below is a good reference. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/how-connect-multiple-monitors I wondered. I just have this other port here. Looks like this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/92/SVGA_port.jpg Except it doesn't have the parts on either side. It's just that center port. Wondered if that would be usable to set up. I'm fine with this Laptop-TV setup if I cant though, just being greedy =D

Discussion

6385.	Solve : is 4gb big enough?
Answer» Hi,ive bought a laptop for my son for Xmas,Toshiba 4gb ram and 500GB sata hard drive,I'm really confused by this,I understand the 4gb bit (I think) but not a clue on the sata bit,he will be using it for runescape,downloading games,films and music,is the laptop big enough to do all this or do I NEED to buy an external hard drive,any advice will be gratefully received 4gb is the AMOUNT of RAM, this is separate from the hard drive which can hold 500gb. It's the hard drive that stores his files, the RAM is the short term memory that the computer uses to store running applications, the more of that you have, the more you can have OPEN at once without it starting to slow down. 4gb of RAM is fairly standard for a laptop nowdays so should be plenty for his needs. A 500gb hard drive is also a decent SIZE, certainly enough to get him started. You can always buy him an external hard drive down the line if he starts running low on space.If he thinks it is too much.... I will take some. Quote he will be using it for runescape,downloading games,films and music Hopefully its not illegal downloading

6385.

Solve : is 4gb big enough?

Answer»

Hi,ive bought a laptop for my son for Xmas,Toshiba 4gb ram and 500GB sata hard drive,I'm really confused by this,I understand the 4gb bit (I think) but not a clue on the sata bit,he will be using it for runescape,downloading games,films and music,is the laptop big enough to do all this or do I NEED to buy an external hard drive,any advice will be gratefully received 4gb is the AMOUNT of RAM, this is separate from the hard drive which can hold 500gb. It's the hard drive that stores his files, the RAM is the short term memory that the computer uses to store running applications, the more of that you have, the more you can have OPEN at once without it starting to slow down.

4gb of RAM is fairly standard for a laptop nowdays so should be plenty for his needs.

A 500gb hard drive is also a decent SIZE, certainly enough to get him started. You can always buy him an external hard drive down the line if he starts running low on space.If he thinks it is too much.... I will take some. Quote

he will be using it for runescape,downloading games,films and music

Hopefully its not illegal downloading

Discussion

6386.	Solve : Need a decent Desktop Under 1k?
Answer» HI, I need help building a desktop that can run games like Sims 3 and Fallout 3 that is under 1k. I require -large amount of HDD (at least 750gb, preferably 1tb) -A monitor, modest. -A cool looking glowing case is really preferred. Not looking for a beast gamer computer, just something to get me through some modest games without issue. http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1GH8FJUnder $1000 (USD) to PLAY those games well is easy to do, especially if you go with AMD instead of INTEL CPU. I have been buying mostly AMD CPU's for the past 6 years because of the price/performance ratio that is usually better than Intel, however AMD is currently playing catch up with Intel with their core design etc, and so at some point hopefully AMD will have benefits similar to those seen way BACK with the single core Athlon XP vs the single core Pentium 4 line in which the Athlon XP's were actually outperforming Intel in many situations, and Intel faught back with HT in the later Pentium 4's that gave the Pentium 4 a 2nd virtual core as well as other benefits that the Athlon XP didnt have until they came out with their Athlon 64 x2 line. Currently Intel holds 1st place and AMD is a close 2nd, although under certain applications AMD can outperform Intel. More info here: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/366/AMD_FX-Series_FX-8350_vs_Intel_Core_i5_i5-4440.html Also you can save money also if you buy parts on your own vs a cyberpower computer custom build, especially if you are able to use a current system build to avoid having to buy certain parts, although given the build you shared it looks like most of the hardware will have to be brand new. Here is an alternative suggestion. This is not intended to be a contradiction of the above post, in fact, the above post is very good for home building. The alternative is to shop around and investigate locally and see if you can find somebody in your area. That's willing to sell them older gaming computer. They had put together. Usually private individuals will give you better deals on used components than going to a place like eBay and trying to get used material from big companies. One reason for this is that gaming computers tend to be a very small market and the resellers that resell stock computers are interested in a larger market. Now, having said that, you could do a kind of a hy-bred situation. Perhaps picking up the case and power supply from one source, and then maybe finding a very good motherboard from another source. If you find somebody that selling a brand name power supply, it probably still has plenty of life left in it. The high-quality power supplies will last for years before they have to be replaced. As for motherboards, even some made years ago can still be very good. It depends. Gigabyte would be your best choice . The AMD CPUs usually off for more performance for what you paid. In my opinion, buying from somebody in your own area is a lower risk than trying to buy something by mail order. But that is just my idea. It depends on where you live. That's all I have to say. It would work if you build your own or buy a pre-built. If you build one it is cheaper but you will need research and knowledge to avoid compatibility issues, etc. A -pre-built needs less knowledge but is generally more expensive. Things you need: -a GPU with about 2Gb vRAM or more -a CPU of ~2.5GHz or more If the computer has those two things with your HDD option you should be fine. To be honest I don't think there is huge difference between AMD but personally I only trust Intel. AMD is good but I believe last I checked Intel had better performance per core and less bugs. I may be biased on that though So again if you buy a pre-built make sure those two things are included. If you build one, do lots of research and know what you are doing. As far as the case goes, practicality > looks. Ceck out PCpartpicker.com and newegg.com for good prices on parts, and some computers on newegg Quote from: ajb522 on November 22, 2014, 01:43:09 PM Things you need: -a GPU with about 2Gb vRAM or more -a CPU of ~2.5GHz or more That simplistic view hasn't worked for years. Modern GPUs and CPUs have a LOT more important differences than the VRAM and the clock speed. Those requirements would be met by the 2.6GHz Celeron G1610 and the 2gb NVIDIA GeForce 610 however these would be totally underpowered for a gaming system. For modern parts you need to look at where they lie in the overall lineup of CPUs as well as real world application benchmarks, the raw specs alone do not translate to real world performance. Quote from: camerongray on November 22, 2014, 03:45:19 PM That simplistic view hasn't worked for years. Modern GPUs and CPUs have a lot more important differences than the VRAM and the clock speed. Those requirements would be met by the 2.6GHz Celeron G1610 and the 2gb NVIDIA GeForce 610 however these would be totally underpowered for a gaming system. For modern parts you need to look at where they lie in the overall lineup of CPUs as well as real world application benchmarks, the raw specs alone do not translate to real world performance. Valid point, always check benchmarks sorry haha I do that without thinking I suppose

6386.

Solve : Need a decent Desktop Under 1k?

Answer» HI, I need help building a desktop that can run games like Sims 3 and Fallout 3 that is under 1k.

I require
-large amount of HDD (at least 750gb, preferably 1tb)
-A monitor, modest.
-A cool looking glowing case is really preferred.

Not looking for a beast gamer computer, just something to get me through some modest games without issue.

http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1GH8FJUnder $1000 (USD) to PLAY those games well is easy to do, especially if you go with AMD instead of INTEL CPU. I have been buying mostly AMD CPU's for the past 6 years because of the price/performance ratio that is usually better than Intel, however AMD is currently playing catch up with Intel with their core design etc, and so at some point hopefully AMD will have benefits similar to those seen way BACK with the single core Athlon XP vs the single core Pentium 4 line in which the Athlon XP's were actually outperforming Intel in many situations, and Intel faught back with HT in the later Pentium 4's that gave the Pentium 4 a 2nd virtual core as well as other benefits that the Athlon XP didnt have until they came out with their Athlon 64 x2 line. Currently Intel holds 1st place and AMD is a close 2nd, although under certain applications AMD can outperform Intel. More info here: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/366/AMD_FX-Series_FX-8350_vs_Intel_Core_i5_i5-4440.html

Also you can save money also if you buy parts on your own vs a cyberpower computer custom build, especially if you are able to use a current system build to avoid having to buy certain parts, although given the build you shared it looks like most of the hardware will have to be brand new.
Here is an alternative suggestion. This is not intended to be a contradiction of the above post, in fact, the above post is very good for home building.
The alternative is to shop around and investigate locally and see if you can find somebody in your area. That's willing to sell them older gaming computer. They had put together. Usually private individuals will give you better deals on used components than going to a place like eBay and trying to get used material from big companies. One reason for this is that gaming computers tend to be a very small market and the resellers that resell stock computers are interested in a larger market.
Now, having said that, you could do a kind of a hy-bred situation. Perhaps picking up the case and power supply from one source, and then maybe finding a very good motherboard from another source.
If you find somebody that selling a brand name power supply, it probably still has plenty of life left in it. The high-quality power supplies will last for years before they have to be replaced.
As for motherboards, even some made years ago can still be very good. It depends. Gigabyte would be your best choice . The AMD CPUs usually off for more performance for what you paid.
In my opinion, buying from somebody in your own area is a lower risk than trying to buy something by mail order. But that is just my idea. It depends on where you live.
That's all I have to say.

It would work if you build your own or buy a pre-built. If you build one it is cheaper but you will need research and knowledge to avoid compatibility issues, etc. A -pre-built needs less knowledge but is generally more expensive.
Things you need:
-a GPU with about 2Gb vRAM or more
-a CPU of ~2.5GHz or more

If the computer has those two things with your HDD option you should be fine. To be honest I don't think there is huge difference between AMD but personally I only trust Intel. AMD is good but I believe last I checked Intel had better performance per core and less bugs. I may be biased on that though So again if you buy a pre-built make sure those two things are included. If you build one, do lots of research and know what you are doing. As far as the case goes, practicality > looks.
Ceck out PCpartpicker.com and newegg.com for good prices on parts, and some computers on newegg Quote from: ajb522 on November 22, 2014, 01:43:09 PM

Things you need:
-a GPU with about 2Gb vRAM or more
-a CPU of ~2.5GHz or more

That simplistic view hasn't worked for years. Modern GPUs and CPUs have a LOT more important differences than the VRAM and the clock speed. Those requirements would be met by the 2.6GHz Celeron G1610 and the 2gb NVIDIA GeForce 610 however these would be totally underpowered for a gaming system.

For modern parts you need to look at where they lie in the overall lineup of CPUs as well as real world application benchmarks, the raw specs alone do not translate to real world performance. Quote from: camerongray on November 22, 2014, 03:45:19 PM

That simplistic view hasn't worked for years. Modern GPUs and CPUs have a lot more important differences than the VRAM and the clock speed. Those requirements would be met by the 2.6GHz Celeron G1610 and the 2gb NVIDIA GeForce 610 however these would be totally underpowered for a gaming system.

For modern parts you need to look at where they lie in the overall lineup of CPUs as well as real world application benchmarks, the raw specs alone do not translate to real world performance.

Valid point, always check benchmarks sorry haha I do that without thinking I suppose

Discussion

6387.	Solve : Computer case question?
Answer» I have a china made (no brand name) with a burned out 16 inch blue cold cathode bulb. I would like to replace it or maybe change the colors. I have not been able to find a 16 incher. BEST I COULD come up with is a 15 inch at New Egg. Any body got an idea on where to look. I have tried some China wholesalers but no luck. This is a ATX full size tower.Where is this tube? If it's just inside the case the length shouldn't matter. I would also recommend looking into an LED strip as they tend to be more reliable, flexible and a lot easier to work with. Most LED strips allow you to cut them down to whatever length you require.To follow up: Turns out the tube was just a plastic tube with small LED's stuck in either end. One was burned out so I just removed the socket and wired in a replacement. I couldn't find blue so I used white which was ok. These bulbs are from case front LED replacement wires. Pure decoration and cheap to do. Also, easy to fix.Just wanted to point out that LEDs rarely fail and when they do its likely because they were over driven ( over powered ) such as missing the 470 ohm resistor in series with the LED. And LED can be powered directly from 5 Volt source, and it will be BRIGHT, but the life of the LED wont last many years running it like this. *If you find yourself having to replace the LED again, check to see if there is a 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in series with the LEDs. It will dim them compared to direct 5 volt power, but they will last longer, likely longer than the life of the computer case. I am an electronics technician, and bounce back and forth between ET and IT, and I see all sorts of incorrect electronics that come to the USA from China that need correcting for design flaws. More info in case anyone doesnt know what a resistor is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ResistorDave: Thanks for the extra info. Doesn't suprise me that a lot of mistakes come from China: like Melomae in the dog food, slave labor, corruption, etc.

Discussion

6388.	Solve : AsRock motherboards?
Answer» I see more and more people on YOUTUBE starting to use AsRock motherboards and I'm wondering if AsRock is moving up in the world? I personally think there a decent brand but they can get pretty expensive. What do you guys think?I imagine they have been getting better recently but like MSI they have a bad past. I would still always stick with Gigabyte or ASUS, the price difference is minimal.I have to agree with Cameron here... I have very little trust in Asrock, MSI, and Foxconn. My rank on boards that I would buy from budget to serious builds are: Biostar - for low cost builds (* I buy many boards from biostar because they have been solid running systems even though usually they have lower quality PARTS in their construction such as electrolytic caps vs solid state caps, as well as I have found english typos in the text in their BIOS menu's although the boards run perfectly fine otherwise, as well as their VRM's almost never have heat spreaders and so overclocking is at the risk of cooking the VRM's ( although I have been running a 10% OC for 9 months with no issues 'yet' that is. )) ASUS - for mid range builds (* Most of the boards I bought of this brand though have been 2nd hand from friends who are selling their prior gaming systems cheaply because they bought newer, but even after 3 YEARS of hard gaming etc they keep on chugging without issues. ) Gigabyte - for serious gaming builds that I build for others in which I have to support them and I know that the motherboard will not give me any troubles. ( Gigabyte has lower cost boards available as well as premium boards ) You're BioStar recommendation makes me cringe... Quote from: patio on November 16, 2014, 05:36:38 PM You're BioStar recommendation makes me cringe... Please elucidate your insight. Curious minds need to know. While I do own a Biostar board in one of my MACHINES (this is a super cheap HTPC where the requirement for the board was to have a built in CPU and HDMI and be cheap) I wouldn't ever call them a quality brand and would dare to say that MSI and AsRock would be better. Biostar still use electrolytic capacitors on loads of their boards which is almost unbelievable by modern standards. Other than "the boards run perfectly fine" which would apply to any motherboard brand, you have listed nothing but flaws with them. I would then say that Gigabyte and ASUS are pretty much on par. I would use them in a PC at any price point, nowadays the price difference between Biostar, MSI.etc and Gigabyte and ASUS is very small, at the time of posting, on Newegg the cheapest Gigabyte B85 motherboard was only $5 more than the cheapest Biostar. Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 16, 2014, 06:11:25 PM Please elucidate your insight. Curious minds need to know. Personal experience...About electrolytic capacitors. Something bad happe4nded some time ago that gave electrolytic caps a bad precipitation. Now they have performance and life expectancy that make then suitable for most applications. Reference: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595 Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 16, 2014, 08:08:11 PM About electrolytic capacitors. Something bad happe4nded some time ago that gave electrolytic caps a bad precipitation. Now they have performance and life expectancy that make then suitable for most applications. Yes, there are plenty of high quality electrolytic capacitors out there but that does not mean they are suitable for motherboards, they are still common to use in power supplies however the quality difference between different capacitor brands is important to note. On modern motherboards it is now seen as standard to use solid capacitors. Besides, at least on the Biostar board I own (NM70i-847) uses 'OST' branded capacitors, not seen as one of the good electrolytic brands.

6388.

Solve : AsRock motherboards?

Answer»

I see more and more people on YOUTUBE starting to use AsRock motherboards and I'm wondering if AsRock is moving up in the world? I personally think there a decent brand but they can get pretty expensive. What do you guys think?I imagine they have been getting better recently but like MSI they have a bad past. I would still always stick with Gigabyte or ASUS, the price difference is minimal.I have to agree with Cameron here... I have very little trust in Asrock, MSI, and Foxconn.

My rank on boards that I would buy from budget to serious builds are:

Biostar - for low cost builds (* I buy many boards from biostar because they have been solid running systems even though usually they have lower quality PARTS in their construction such as electrolytic caps vs solid state caps, as well as I have found english typos in the text in their BIOS menu's although the boards run perfectly fine otherwise, as well as their VRM's almost never have heat spreaders and so overclocking is at the risk of cooking the VRM's ( although I have been running a 10% OC for 9 months with no issues 'yet' that is. ))

ASUS - for mid range builds (* Most of the boards I bought of this brand though have been 2nd hand from friends who are selling their prior gaming systems cheaply because they bought newer, but even after 3 YEARS of hard gaming etc they keep on chugging without issues. )

Gigabyte - for serious gaming builds that I build for others in which I have to support them and I know that the motherboard will not give me any troubles. ( Gigabyte has lower cost boards available as well as premium boards )
You're BioStar recommendation makes me cringe... Quote from: patio on November 16, 2014, 05:36:38 PM

You're BioStar recommendation makes me cringe...

Please elucidate your insight.
Curious minds need to know. While I do own a Biostar board in one of my MACHINES (this is a super cheap HTPC where the requirement for the board was to have a built in CPU and HDMI and be cheap) I wouldn't ever call them a quality brand and would dare to say that MSI and AsRock would be better.

Biostar still use electrolytic capacitors on loads of their boards which is almost unbelievable by modern standards. Other than "the boards run perfectly fine" which would apply to any motherboard brand, you have listed nothing but flaws with them.

I would then say that Gigabyte and ASUS are pretty much on par. I would use them in a PC at any price point, nowadays the price difference between Biostar, MSI.etc and Gigabyte and ASUS is very small, at the time of posting, on Newegg the cheapest Gigabyte B85 motherboard was only $5 more than the cheapest Biostar. Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 16, 2014, 06:11:25 PM

Please elucidate your insight.
Curious minds need to know.

Personal experience...About electrolytic capacitors. Something bad happe4nded some time ago that gave electrolytic caps a bad precipitation. Now they have performance and life expectancy that make then suitable for most applications.
Reference:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595
Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 16, 2014, 08:08:11 PM

About electrolytic capacitors. Something bad happe4nded some time ago that gave electrolytic caps a bad precipitation. Now they have performance and life expectancy that make then suitable for most applications.

Yes, there are plenty of high quality electrolytic capacitors out there but that does not mean they are suitable for motherboards, they are still common to use in power supplies however the quality difference between different capacitor brands is important to note. On modern motherboards it is now seen as standard to use solid capacitors.

Besides, at least on the Biostar board I own (NM70i-847) uses 'OST' branded capacitors, not seen as one of the good electrolytic brands.

Discussion

6389.	Solve : No signal to monitor/tv?
Answer» My psu recently decided to blow up in smoke, I CHANGED it over and my computers BOOTING up FINE but there are a few hitches. Firstly the CPU fan isn't spinning which is fine I'm replacing that tomorrow My main concern is I'm getting nothing on either a PC monitor or on my hd tele whichever I try, my gfx card seems to be working fine both fans are spinning as normal. My question is would my blank screen be down to the fact my CPU fan isn't working? I'd have thought I'd still GET the bios startup writing? Thanks in advanceI wouldn't even attempt to run a PC with a bad CPU fan...wait til it's replaced and see what happens... We'll be here.Does the CAPS lock light work? If not, the CPU is not working. Yeh I'm not going to boot it at all now I'm waiting until tomorrow. Good choice...THANK you anyway

Discussion

6390.	Solve : Substituting a weaker fan for power supply - is it safe??
Answer» I'm trying to replace the 12V power supply fan in an eMachines EL 1850 desktop computer, due to it becoming too noisy. This is the original fan, which is rated .27A. I bought this fan instead, which is rated at .13A, and it seems to maybe have a little weaker blow than the original. Is it safe to use? If the CFM is not high enough will it be a fire hazard in the power supply, or is there some kind of shutdown mechanism in power supplies that will kick in, if it did overheat? It really depends on the quality of the PSU - MANY PSUs in prebuilt systems aren't good quality and less airflow could well cause problems. Quality PSUs will shut off if they overheat or if other problems are detected, low quality units don't always have those protection features built in. Also, the PSU will have a fan curve PROGRAMMED specific to that model - in other words at x temperature or power draw it'll supply y volts to the fan, because that equals z speed. With a different fan, y volts may equal a totally different speed, or the voltage supplied may even be insufficient to spin the fan up. In other words, yes it has the potential to cause problems, but depending on how much power you're drawing from the PSU and assuming the fan does work, you MIGHT be OK. You'll need to test it thoroughly and keep a close eye on things. It's not something I would advise, a replacement PSU would be a better choice although it would of course cost a little more.Emachines are notorious for cheap flimsy PSU's... You would be better served REPLACING the WHOLE unit...

Discussion

6391.	Solve : Review my setup please?
Answer» GAMING Chasis: CyberPowerPC X-Titan 100 MID-Tower Gaming Case w/ Side-Window Panel (Black Color) Laser Engraving: None Neon Light Upgrade: 12in Meter Light - 8 speed (Red Color) Extra Case Fans: Default case fans Noise Reduction Technology: None CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-4590 3.30 GHz 6MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1150 Performance Tuning Protection Plan by Intel: None Venom Boost Fast And Efficient Factory Overclocking: No Overclocking CPU / Processor Cooling Fan: Asetek 550LC 120mm LIQUID Cooling CPU Cooler - Extreme Cooling Performance (Single STANDARD 120MM Fan) COOLANT for Cyberpower Xtreme Hydro Water Cooling Kits: Standard Coolant Motherboard: * GIGABYTE Z97X-SLI ATX w/ Intel GbLAN, 2 PCIe x16, 3 PCIe x1, 2 PCI, 1 x M.2, 1 x SATA Express, or 6x SATA 6Gb/s (Extreme OC Certified) NFC: None Freebies: GIGABYTE GC-WB867D-I 802.11AC Wi-Fi up to 867 Mbps + Bluetooth 4.0 Combo w/ Dual Antenna PCI-E Adapter Intel Smart Response Technology: None RAM / System Memory: 16GB (8GBx2) DDR3/2133MHz Dual Channel Memory (Corsair Vengeance) Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730 2GB GDDR3 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card (Single Card) Freebies: None Power Supply: 400 Watts - EVGA 400W Power Supply Hard Drive: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 32MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Drive) Secondary Hard Drive: None Hard Drive Cooling Fan: Vigor iSURF II Hard Disk Drive Cooling System (1 x System) External Storage: None USB Flash Drive: None Optical Drive: 24X Double Layer Dual Format DVD+-R/+-RW + CD-R/RW Drive (BLACK COLOR) Optical Drive 2: None External Optical Drive: None Sound: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO NVIDIA 3D Vision Glasses: None LCD Monitor: 20" Widescreen 1600x900 Scretpre E205W-1600 LED Gaming Monitor (Single Monitor) Cables: None Speakers: None Internal Network Card: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network Keyboard: AZZA Delta Gaming Keyboard w/ Anti-Ghosting & red backlight Mouse: AZZA Alpha 1600 DPI Gaming Mouse Mouse Pad: None Headset: None Gaming Gear: None Fan Controller/Temperature Display: None Internal USB Expansion Module: None Internal Wireless Network Card: None External Wireless Network Card: None Wireless Routers/Hubs: None Docking Station: None Bluetooth: None Flash Media Reader/Writer: None Video Camera: None Gaming Tablet: None Power & Surge Protection: None USB Hub & Port: Internal USB 3.0 4-Port Hub External USB ADAPTER: None Operating System: Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional (64-bit Edition) Media Center Remote Control & TV Tuner: None Office Suite: None Games: None Ultra Care Option: Ultra Enhanced Packaging Solution - Protect Your Dream System During Transit Service: STANDARD WARRANTY: 3-YEAR [3 Year Labor, 1 Year Parts] LIMITED WARRANTY PLUS LIFE-TIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT Rush Service: Standard processing time: ship WITHIN 5 to 10 Business Days What questions do you have about this system? Quote from: DaveLembke on November 17, 2014, 10:06:40 AM What questions do you have about this system? He's posted twice...

Discussion

6392.	Solve : Monitor often not recognized on startup?
Answer» Often, but not always when I boot up my PC, the monitor doesn't get a signal. I have to then turn off PC, turn off monitor, unplug PC, monitor and HDMI cable between PC and monitor, wair a moment and plug everything back. Then it works fine. What needs to be set correctly? I'm using: ASUS Z-87 PRO MB, Samsung monitor, Windows 7 Pro 64-bit, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Quote unplug PC, monitor and HDMI cable between PC and monitor, wait a moment and plug everything back. A simple reboot of these should fix this... Is disconnecting and RECONNECTING really necessary to get the display back? I have had a picky video card before where if the display was turned off ( or ) KVM was set to another system as its focus and the system was booted, turning the monitor on after it was booted or switching the KVM focus to the system would just be a black screen. I also would hear a da-dunk sound on my sound for this system as Windows basically DISCONNECTED the video out on boot since it didnt see a display.The OP might not get an easy solution. In a commercial operation they might blame the monitor and get a monitor that does a better job of working with the OS. The other choice is to get a specific drive for that monitor the knows how to resolve the issue. The maker of the monitor should have it available. What is the exact model number of the monitor? A reboot doesn't fix the problem. What happens upon booting or rebooting - when the display doesn't get the signal - is that in the upper left of the monitor screen a small graphic of white letters TOGGLES back and forth between "HDMI" and "Analog" EVERY couple of seconds or so while the screen stays black. Every time when I disconnect all three cables and re-connect them, it boots up normally. I've tried every combination of the the three cables but all three must be disconnected and then re-connected before it works. And the weird thing is that this phenomenon doesn't happen every time I start up the computer - but it happens too often enough. The monitor model is: Samsung S24D390HL. What does OP mean? Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 22, 2014, 07:42:06 PM The OP might not get an easy solution. Quote from: jonnyD on November 23, 2014, 08:34:35 AM What does OP mean? It's a common abbreviation used in forums, the first letters of "Original Poster", meaning the person who started the thread, in this case, you. Quote when the display doesn't get the signal - is that in the upper left of the monitor screen a small graphic of white letters toggles back and forth between "HDMI" and "Analog" every couple of seconds or so while the screen stays black. This symptom would indicate it's the monitor...is it still under Warranty ? ?

6392.

Solve : Monitor often not recognized on startup?

Answer»

Often, but not always when I boot up my PC, the monitor doesn't get a signal. I have to then turn off PC, turn off monitor, unplug PC, monitor and HDMI cable between PC and monitor, wair a moment and plug everything back. Then it works fine. What needs to be set correctly?

I'm using: ASUS Z-87 PRO MB, Samsung monitor, Windows 7 Pro 64-bit, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Quote

unplug PC, monitor and HDMI cable between PC and monitor, wait a moment and plug everything back.

A simple reboot of these should fix this... Is disconnecting and RECONNECTING really necessary to get the display back?

I have had a picky video card before where if the display was turned off ( or ) KVM was set to another system as its focus and the system was booted, turning the monitor on after it was booted or switching the KVM focus to the system would just be a black screen. I also would hear a da-dunk sound on my sound for this system as Windows basically DISCONNECTED the video out on boot since it didnt see a display.The OP might not get an easy solution.
In a commercial operation they might blame the monitor and get a monitor that does a better job of working with the OS.
The other choice is to get a specific drive for that monitor the knows how to resolve the issue. The maker of the monitor should have it available.

What is the exact model number of the monitor?

A reboot doesn't fix the problem. What happens upon booting or rebooting - when the display doesn't get the signal - is that in the upper left of the monitor screen a small graphic of white letters TOGGLES back and forth between "HDMI" and "Analog" EVERY couple of seconds or so while the screen stays black. Every time when I disconnect all three cables and re-connect them, it boots up normally. I've tried every combination of the the three cables but all three must be disconnected and then re-connected before it works. And the weird thing is that this phenomenon doesn't happen every time I start up the computer - but it happens too often enough.

The monitor model is: Samsung S24D390HL. What does OP mean?

Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 22, 2014, 07:42:06 PM

The OP might not get an easy solution.

Quote from: jonnyD on November 23, 2014, 08:34:35 AM

What does OP mean?

It's a common abbreviation used in forums, the first letters of "Original Poster", meaning the person who started the thread, in this case, you.
Quote

when the display doesn't get the signal - is that in the upper left of the monitor screen a small graphic of white letters toggles back and forth between "HDMI" and "Analog" every couple of seconds or so while the screen stays black.

This symptom would indicate it's the monitor...is it still under Warranty ? ?

Discussion

6393.	Solve : Gigabyte GA-K8N-SLI OS install problems both Linux and Windows XP?
Answer» One of my friends found recently an older gaming motherboard he had that he was going to throw away because he had no need for it. I said I'd take it off of his hands if he is just going to toss it out because I have a socket 939 Athlon 64 3500+ CPU and a pile of DDR RAM sticks not being used, as well as a bare case to stuff it into. It was pulled as a working board back around 2009 and sat in his closet in an ESD bag ever since. The CPU and RAM he ended up selling to some other friends so it was just a bare board. The board is also very clean like new condition and so no dirt and dust in CPU socket etc. Installed everything successfully and the motherboard got past POST and started to go through the installation process of Windows XP, and then part way through I got a fast BSOD and then it rebooted itself. I then tried again and Windows XP would not boot off the OEM install CD. So I figured maybe its a bummed DVD-ROM, and so I swapped it out with another knon good IDE CD-RW drive and it started the boot process off the drive and then the disk was just going forever without getting to the installation process but instead just a blinking curser it top left corner. So I then held power button in and then turned it back on and swapped the Windows XP disc with memtest86 and ran that for 4 hours successfully without any problems reported. So I then grabbed another known good not scratched like new XP install disc like the other and booted off of that and this time it started to get to the install process where its writing FILES to the HDD which is also IDE btw and not a SATA drive as for to get a SATA drive to work with this motherboard I would have to use a floppy to get the SATA driver ready through part of the XP install or instead use a SP2 slipstream. While files were breing written it then did a BSOD and rebooted itself. So I then decided to swap the 80GB IDE HDD with a known good 40GB HDD and try again, once again it got to where it was installing files to HDD during install and a flash of a BSOD and reboot. So I then swapped out the IDE cable just to eliminate that and still same problem. As well as checked to make SURE the jumpers were set to Master/Slave on the drives to avoid those issues. No problems there for a non-CS cable and HDD as Slave and CD-RW drive as Master on IDE channel 1 The CPU I installed I know is good because it came from a working computer of which the main board was too limited ( NO AGP or PCIE port ) and so I gave this motherboard to a FRIEND who needed one for a HTPC and he had a better than a Athlon 64 3500+ to stuff into it so I kept my CPU. I then swapped out the 2 x 512MB DDR400Mhz matched pair Edge Memory sticks ( 1GB ) Still same issues. Swapped the power supply with a known good 350 watt and still same issues. Checked the capacitors and found no issues thinking maybe it had the bad caps issue that many boards had of that period. I tried to then get it to boot off of a Live Linux distro and it gets part way through the Linux load and just hangs at a solid white display and no drive activity. What stinks is that the BSOD crash is so fast that I cant read it to write down the info, and without Windows installed to it I dont think I have any options for logging the crash info. I suppose I might be able to point a video camera at the display and record the boot and then try to freeze the FRAME that captures the error message, but I havent gotten that far into this yet due to lack of time with FLL Robotics that I was dealing with as a coach for the middle school robotics team that I am leading/teaching. Maybe I should just yank the CPU and RAM out of this board and just toss it since its not that critical and fast of a system, but figured I'd post this here first to see if anyone has any suggestions on what to check before sending the motherboard to recycle/landfill? Here is the motherboard info: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128306Try the install with only 1 stik of RAM in the slot closest to the CPU... Quote Try the install with only 1 stik of RAM in the slot closest to the CPU... Thanks, I will give this a shot. I didnt go this far with memory because memtest86 was fine with the RAM after running 4 hours. So I excluded further testing of the memory given no failing address reported etc.I just remember having to do this with XP on certain SETUPS...Best of Luck. Afterall you've ruled out it being the HDD ...or cable...Ok.... I found the problem... This motherboard has SLI option and looking down at the SLI flip board to enable/disable SLI, I had it set up for SLI and only a single PCIE geforce 8400gs video card installed, as for my friend was running SLI config I guess when he retired this board and didnt flip the SLI mode board. So I flipped this SLI flip board to Normal Mode vs SLI Mode and that was what was crashing the OS's when trying to install them, it was set for SLI and only a single video card installed... ooops Next time I get a SLI capable board and have problems I will be checking this SLI flip board to make sure its set correctly. cant believe I missed this and just about tossed the motherboard away as junk. Thanks patio for your input on RAM with XP with certain setups. Going to retain that in case I see this again on a non-SLI motherboard.

6393.

Solve : Gigabyte GA-K8N-SLI OS install problems both Linux and Windows XP?

Answer»

One of my friends found recently an older gaming motherboard he had that he was going to throw away because he had no need for it. I said I'd take it off of his hands if he is just going to toss it out because I have a socket 939 Athlon 64 3500+ CPU and a pile of DDR RAM sticks not being used, as well as a bare case to stuff it into. It was pulled as a working board back around 2009 and sat in his closet in an ESD bag ever since. The CPU and RAM he ended up selling to some other friends so it was just a bare board. The board is also very clean like new condition and so no dirt and dust in CPU socket etc.

Installed everything successfully and the motherboard got past POST and started to go through the installation process of Windows XP, and then part way through I got a fast BSOD and then it rebooted itself. I then tried again and Windows XP would not boot off the OEM install CD. So I figured maybe its a bummed DVD-ROM, and so I swapped it out with another knon good IDE CD-RW drive and it started the boot process off the drive and then the disk was just going forever without getting to the installation process but instead just a blinking curser it top left corner.

So I then held power button in and then turned it back on and swapped the Windows XP disc with memtest86 and ran that for 4 hours successfully without any problems reported.

So I then grabbed another known good not scratched like new XP install disc like the other and booted off of that and this time it started to get to the install process where its writing FILES to the HDD which is also IDE btw and not a SATA drive as for to get a SATA drive to work with this motherboard I would have to use a floppy to get the SATA driver ready through part of the XP install or instead use a SP2 slipstream. While files were breing written it then did a BSOD and rebooted itself.

So I then decided to swap the 80GB IDE HDD with a known good 40GB HDD and try again, once again it got to where it was installing files to HDD during install and a flash of a BSOD and reboot.

So I then swapped out the IDE cable just to eliminate that and still same problem. As well as checked to make SURE the jumpers were set to Master/Slave on the drives to avoid those issues. No problems there for a non-CS cable and HDD as Slave and CD-RW drive as Master on IDE channel 1

The CPU I installed I know is good because it came from a working computer of which the main board was too limited ( NO AGP or PCIE port ) and so I gave this motherboard to a FRIEND who needed one for a HTPC and he had a better than a Athlon 64 3500+ to stuff into it so I kept my CPU.

I then swapped out the 2 x 512MB DDR400Mhz matched pair Edge Memory sticks ( 1GB )

Still same issues.

Swapped the power supply with a known good 350 watt and still same issues.

Checked the capacitors and found no issues thinking maybe it had the bad caps issue that many boards had of that period.

I tried to then get it to boot off of a Live Linux distro and it gets part way through the Linux load and just hangs at a solid white display and no drive activity.

What stinks is that the BSOD crash is so fast that I cant read it to write down the info, and without Windows installed to it I dont think I have any options for logging the crash info.

I suppose I might be able to point a video camera at the display and record the boot and then try to freeze the FRAME that captures the error message, but I havent gotten that far into this yet due to lack of time with FLL Robotics that I was dealing with as a coach for the middle school robotics team that I am leading/teaching.

Maybe I should just yank the CPU and RAM out of this board and just toss it since its not that critical and fast of a system, but figured I'd post this here first to see if anyone has any suggestions on what to check before sending the motherboard to recycle/landfill?

Here is the motherboard info: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128306Try the install with only 1 stik of RAM in the slot closest to the CPU... Quote

Try the install with only 1 stik of RAM in the slot closest to the CPU...

Thanks, I will give this a shot. I didnt go this far with memory because memtest86 was fine with the RAM after running 4 hours. So I excluded further testing of the memory given no failing address reported etc.I just remember having to do this with XP on certain SETUPS...Best of Luck.
Afterall you've ruled out it being the HDD ...or cable...Ok.... I found the problem...

This motherboard has SLI option and looking down at the SLI flip board to enable/disable SLI, I had it set up for SLI and only a single PCIE geforce 8400gs video card installed, as for my friend was running SLI config I guess when he retired this board and didnt flip the SLI mode board.

So I flipped this SLI flip board to Normal Mode vs SLI Mode and that was what was crashing the OS's when trying to install them, it was set for SLI and only a single video card installed... ooops

Next time I get a SLI capable board and have problems I will be checking this SLI flip board to make sure its set correctly.

cant believe I missed this and just about tossed the motherboard away as junk. Thanks patio for your input on RAM with XP with certain setups. Going to retain that in case I see this again on a non-SLI motherboard.

Discussion

6394.	Solve : Scrolling lines on laptop when connected to TV through HDMI?
Answer» I'm in way over my head and hope I can get some help here. Recently my hard drive went out and I had it replaced with a solid state drive. The problem I'm having is when I hook up my Samsung Smart TV through an HDMI cable (also tried a new cable with same results) I get wavy, scrolling lines on my laptop that GO away when I disconnect the cable. The lines don't show up on my TV and this didn't happen before having my computer repaired. The Staples tech wants to charge me again for diagnosing it after paying over $270 for a diagnostics and replacement of the hard drive. He said it's not possible for it to be a problem with the new hard drive so it would be another charge even though it didn't do it before having it repaired and my computer reformatted. I'm concerned I'm going to BURN something out if I keep using it this way but I also don't want to pay more if it's something simple. He said it could be the motherboard or graphics card but I'm not sure whether or not to trust him. I'm a senior with little technical knowledge. I want to use an HDMI cable so I can watch Xfinity programming that's available online only. I can live with it doing this as long as it isn't hurting my computer. Any help or suggestions is GREATLY appreciated. MSI Laptop - 3 years old OS Version: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium, Service Pack 1, 64 bit Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) CPU P6200 2.13GHz, Intel64 Family 6 Model 37 Stepping 5 Processor Count: 2 RAM: 3886 Mb Graphics Card: Intel(R) HD Graphics, 1719 Mb Hard DRIVES: C: Total - 114370 MB, Free - 84591 MB; Motherboard: Micro-Star International, A6200

Discussion

6395.	Solve : Gaming PC lag?
Answer» Hi, I have a very FRUSTRATING issue on my PC. Games performance drops whenever I play it for 10-20 minutes. It varies, e.g. when I play watch dogs, it stutters after playing for 15 minutes. GTA IV lags and stutters after playing for 10 minutes. HOWEVER there are also games that do not experience lag, or the performance drops very little. For example: Battlefield 4 (ultra settings), ARMA III (when i adjust the view distance SLIDER all the way max, it lags after playing 10 minutes). During the lag moment, for games that lag, when i set the resolution from 1080p to 720p, they don't lag before 5 minutes. After that, they lag. So please any help would be appreciated, and thanks Specs I got from game booster: Game Booster Diagnose Report v1.0 Version: 3.4.0.1491 Date: 2014/11/11 18:31:54 ---------------------------------- 01 - Operating System ---------------------------------- 0101 - Operating System : Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit (6.1, Build 7600) (7600.win7_rtm.090713-1255) 0102 - Language : English (Regional Setting: English) 0103 - BIOS : BIOS Date: 02/14/12 10:03:14 Ver: 04.06.04 0104 - Processor : Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600 CPU 3.40GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.4GHz 0105 - Memory : 8192MB RAM 0106 - Available OS Memory : 8174MB RAM 0107 - Page File : 1404MB used, 14941MB available 0108 - Windows Dir : C:\Windows 0109 - DirectX Version : DirectX 11 0110 - DX Setup Parameters : Not found 0111 - User DPI Setting : Using System DPI 0112 - System DPI Setting : 96 DPI (100 percent) 0113 - DWM DPI Scaling : Disabled 0114 - DxDiag Version : 6.01.7600.16385 ---------------------------------- 02 - Processor ---------------------------------- 0201 - Caption : Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600 CPU 3.40GHz x8 ~3401MHz 0202 - Current Clock Speed : 3401MHz ---------------------------------- 03 - Video Adapter ---------------------------------- 0301 - Card Name : NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 0302 - Manufacturer : NVIDIA 0303 - Chip Type : GeForce GTX 760 0304 - DAC Type : Integrated RAMDAC 0305 - Device Key : Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1187&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_A1 0306 - Display Memory : 4038 MB 0307 - AdapterRAM : -2147483648 Byte 0308 - Current Mode : 1360 x 768 (32 bit) (60Hz) 0309 - Monitor Name : Generic PnP Monitor 0310 - Driver Name : nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um 0311 - Driver Version : 9.18.0013.4465 0312 - Driver Language : English 0313 - DDI Version : 10.1 0314 - Driver Model : WDDM 1.1 0315 - Driver Beta : False 0316 - Driver Debug : False 0317 - Driver Date : 11/3/2014 16:04:30 0318 - Driver Size : 19966344 0319 - VDD : n/a 0320 - Mini VDD : n/a 0321 - Mini VDD Date : n/a 0322 - Mini VDD Size : 0 0323 - Device Identifier : {D7B71E3E-52C7-11CF-C172-0D201CC2C435} 0324 - Vendor ID : 0x10DE 0325 - Device ID : 0x1187 0326 - SubSys ID : 0x00000000 0327 - Revision ID : 0x00A1 0328 - Driver Strong Name : oem1.inf:NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.1:Section035:9.18.13.4465:pci\ven_10de&dev_1187 0329 - Rank Of Driver : 00E00003 0330 - Video Accel : ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C ModeVC1_C ModeWMV9_C 0331 - Deinterlace Caps : {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps= 0332 - D3D9 Overlay : Supported 0333 - DXVA-HD : Supported 0334 - DDraw Status : Enabled 0335 - D3D Status : Enabled 0336 - AGP Status : Enabled 0337 - Notes : No problems found. 0338 - OpenGL : 6.1.7600.16385 (win7_rtm.090713-1255) ---------------------------------- 04 - Memory ---------------------------------- 0401 - Total Memory : 7.98 GB 0402 - Free Memory : 6.66 GB 0403 - Total Pagefile : 15.96 GB 0404 - Free Pagefile : 14.58 GB 0405 - Bank Label : A1_BANK0 0406 - Speed : 1333 MHz 0407 - Total Width : 64 Bits 0408 - Capacity : 4.00 GB 0405 - Bank Label : A1_BANK2 0406 - Speed : 1333 MHz 0407 - Total Width : 64 Bits 0408 - Capacity : 4.00 GB ---------------------------------- 05 - Network ---------------------------------- 0501 - Description : Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller 0502 - Driver Date : 6-18-2013 0503 - Driver Version : 7.73.618.2013 ---------------------------------- 06 - Motherboard ---------------------------------- 0601 - Model : H61M-P35 (MS-7680) 0602 - Manufacturer : MSI ---------------------------------- 07 - Sound Device ---------------------------------- 0701 - Description : SPEAKERS (High Definition Audio Device) 0702 - Default Sound Playback : True 0703 - Default Voice Playback : True 0704 - Hardware ID : HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0887&SUBSYS_14627680&REV_1003 0705 - Manufacturer ID : 1 0706 - Product ID : 65535 0707 - Type : WDM 0708 - Driver Name : HdAudio.sys 0709 - Driver Version : 6.01.7600.16385 0710 - Driver attributes : Final Retail 0711 - Date and Size : 7/13/2009 16:07:00 0713 - Driver Provider : Microsoft 0714 - Min/Max Sample Rate : 5373878, 5373878 0715 - Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs : 5373878, 5373878 0716 - Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs : 5373878, 5373878 0717 - HW Memory : 5373886 0718 - Voice Management : False 0719 - EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src : False, False 0720 - I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src : False, False 0721 - Notes : No problems found. 0701 - Description : SHARP HDMI-4 (NVIDIA High Definition Audio) 0702 - Default Sound Playback : False 0703 - Default Voice Playback : False 0704 - Hardware ID : HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10DE&DEV_0040&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_1001 0705 - Manufacturer ID : 1 0706 - Product ID : 100 0707 - Type : WDM 0708 - Driver Name : nvhda64v.sys 0709 - Driver Version : 1.03.0032.0001 0710 - Driver attributes : Final Retail 0711 - Date and Size : 11/6/2014 13:02:48 0713 - Driver Provider : NVIDIA Corporation 0714 - Min/Max Sample Rate : 5373878, 5373878 0715 - Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs : 5373878, 5373878 0716 - Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs : 5373878, 5373878 0717 - HW Memory : 5373886 0718 - Voice Management : False 0719 - EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src : False, False 0720 - I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src : False, False 0721 - Notes : No problems found. 0701 - Description : Digital Audio (S/PDIF) (High Definition Audio Device) 0702 - Default Sound Playback : False 0703 - Default Voice Playback : False 0704 - Hardware ID : HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0887&SUBSYS_14627680&REV_1003 0705 - Manufacturer ID : 1 0706 - Product ID : 65535 0707 - Type : WDM 0708 - Driver Name : HdAudio.sys 0709 - Driver Version : 6.01.7600.16385 0710 - Driver attributes : Final Retail 0711 - Date and Size : 7/13/2009 16:07:00 0713 - Driver Provider : Microsoft 0714 - Min/Max Sample Rate : 5373878, 5373878 0715 - Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs : 5373878, 5373878 0716 - Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs : 5373878, 5373878 0717 - HW Memory : 5373886 0718 - Voice Management : False 0719 - EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src : False, False 0720 - I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src : False, False 0721 - Notes : No problems found. ---------------------------------- 08 - Hard Disk ---------------------------------- 0801 - Model : ST1000DM003-9YN162 ATA Device(Seagate, 000DM003-9YN1G) 0802 - Media Type : Fixed hard disk media 0803 - Size : 931.51 GB 0804 - Interface Type : Serial ATA 0805 - Driver Date : 6-21-2006 0806 - Driver Version : 6.1.7600.16385 0807 - Caption : C:\ 0808 - Capacity : 244.04 GB 0809 - Free Space : 113.59 GB 0810 - Drive Type : 3-Fixed 0811 - File System : NTFS 0807 - Caption : D:\ 0808 - Capacity : 244.14 GB 0809 - Free Space : 198.77 GB 0810 - Drive Type : 3-Fixed 0811 - File System : NTFS 0807 - Caption : E:\ 0808 - Capacity : 443.23 GB 0809 - Free Space : 328.61 GB 0810 - Drive Type : 3-Fixed 0811 - File System : NTFS ---------------------------------- 09 - Process ---------------------------------- 0901 - 0000 Idle 0 0 0 0901 - 0004 System 0 0 0 0901 - 0144 smss.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 01cc csrss.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0210 wininit.exe 0 0 0 high 0901 - 0230 csrss.exe 1 174 81 normal 0901 - 0248 services.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 025c lsass.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0264 lsm.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 029c winlogon.exe 1 6 0 high 0901 - 02fc svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 033c nvvsvc.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0354 nvSCPAPISvr.exe 0 0 0 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\NVIDIA Corporation\3D Vision 0901 - 0384 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 03e4 MsMpEng.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0154 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 01c8 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0370 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0444 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 04c4 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0520 spoolsv.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0594 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 05dc nvxdsync.exe 1 35 9 normal 0901 - 05fc nvvsvc.exe 1 12 5 normal 0901 - 06a8 armsvc.exe 0 0 0 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Adobe\ARM\1.0 0901 - 06fc NvNetworkService.exe 0 0 0 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\NVIDIA Corporation\NetService 0901 - 0748 nvstreamsvc.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0790 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 060c nvstreamsvc.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 06b8 conhost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 090c nvstreamsvc.exe 1 15 10 normal 0901 - 091c conhost.exe 1 23 8 normal 0901 - 097c dwm.exe 1 9 2 normal 0901 - 0998 explorer.exe 1 456 322 normal 0901 - 0a14 NisSrv.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0ae8 rundll32.exe 1 15 7 normal 0901 - 0bd0 NvBackend.exe 1 9 9 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\NVIDIA Corporation\Update Core 0901 - 0bf0 nvtray.exe 1 81 4 normal 0901 - 0b94 SearchIndexer.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0df8 msseces.exe 1 143 60 normal 0901 - 0e3c NMBgMonitor.exe 1 9 6 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Ahead\Lib 0901 - 0e44 GoogleUpdate.exe 1 9 4 idle C:\Users\ARYO\AppData\Local\Google\Update 0901 - 0f24 NMIndexingService.exe 0 0 0 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Ahead\Lib 0901 - 0f44 NMIndexStoreSvr.exe 1 9 3 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Ahead\Lib 0901 - 0ee4 PresentationFontCache.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0e80 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 1098 ymsgr_tray.exe 1 93 11 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\Yahoo!\Messenger 0901 - 1218 mscorsvw.exe 0 0 0 normal C:\Windows\Microsoft.NET\Framework\v4.0.30319 0901 - 1230 svchost.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 1264 mscorsvw.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 0fd4 audiodg.exe 0 0 0 0901 - 05c0 SearchProtocolHost.exe 0 0 0 idle 0901 - 0498 SearchFilterHost.exe 0 0 0 idle 0901 - 0428 WmiPrvSE.exe 0 0 0 normal 0901 - 1118 gbinit.exe 1 102 51 normal C:\Users\ARYO\AppData\Local\Temp\is-LFL7T.tmp 0901 - 0de4 GameBooster.exe 1 1537 110 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\IObit\Game Booster 3 0901 - 0180 gbtray.exe 1 62 42 normal C:\Program Files (x86)\IObit\Game Booster 3 0901 - 0a9c WmiPrvSE.exe 0 0 0 normal ---------------------------------- 10 - Service ---------------------------------- 1001 - Adobe Acrobat Update Service - ["C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Adobe\ARM\1.0\armsvc.exe"] 1001 - Application Experience - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Application Information - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Windows Audio Endpoint Builder - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] 1001 - Windows Audio - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalServiceNetworkRestricted] 1001 - Base Filtering Engine - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalServiceNoNetwork] 1001 - Background Intelligent Transfer Service - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Computer Browser - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Microsoft .NET Framework NGEN v4.0.30319_X86 - [C:\Windows\Microsoft.NET\Framework\v4.0.30319\mscorsvw.exe] 1001 - Microsoft .NET Framework NGEN v4.0.30319_X64 - [C:\Windows\Microsoft.NET\Framework64\v4.0.30319\mscorsvw.exe] 1001 - Cryptographic Services - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k NetworkService] 1001 - Offline Files - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] 1001 - DHCP Client - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalServiceNetworkRestricted] 1001 - DNS Client - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k NetworkService] 1001 - COM+ Event System - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalService] 1001 - Windows Presentation Foundation Font Cache 3.0.0.0 - [C:\Windows\Microsoft.Net\Framework64\v3.0\WPF\PresentationFontCache.exe] 1001 - Human Interface Device Access - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] 1001 - IP Helper - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k NetSvcs] 1001 - Server - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Workstation - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k NetworkService] 1001 - TCP/IP NetBIOS Helper - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalServiceNetworkRestricted] 1001 - Multimedia Class Scheduler - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Windows Firewall - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalServiceNoNetwork] 1001 - Network Connections - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] 1001 - Network List Service - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalService] 1001 - Network Location Awareness - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k NetworkService] 1001 - NMIndexingService - ["C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Ahead\Lib\NMIndexingService.exe"] 1001 - Network Store Interface Service - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalService] 1001 - NVIDIA Network Service - ["C:\Program Files (x86)\NVIDIA Corporation\NetService\NvNetworkService.exe"] 1001 - NVIDIA Streamer Service - ["C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\NvStreamSrv\nvstreamsvc.exe"] 1001 - NVIDIA Display Driver Service - ["C:\Windows\system32\nvvsvc.exe"] 1001 - Peer Networking Identity Manager - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalServicePeerNet] 1001 - Program Compatibility Assistant Service - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] 1001 - Plug and Play - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k DcomLaunch] 1001 - Peer Name Resolution Protocol - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalServicePeerNet] 1001 - Power - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k DcomLaunch] 1001 - User Profile Service - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Security Accounts Manager - [C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe] 1001 - System Event Notification Service - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Shell Hardware Detection - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Print Spooler - [C:\Windows\System32\spoolsv.exe] 1001 - SSDP Discovery - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalServiceAndNoImpersonation] 1001 - NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D Driver Service - ["C:\Program Files (x86)\NVIDIA Corporation\3D Vision\nvSCPAPISvr.exe"] 1001 - Windows Image Acquisition (WIA) - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k imgsvc] 1001 - Superfetch - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] 1001 - Themes - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Distributed Link Tracking Client - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] 1001 - Desktop Window Manager Session Manager - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] 1001 - WinHTTP Web Proxy Auto-Discovery Service - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalService] 1001 - Windows Management Instrumentation - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Security Center - [C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe -k LocalServiceNetworkRestricted] 1001 - Windows Search - [C:\Windows\system32\SearchIndexer.exe /Embedding] 1001 - Windows Update - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs] 1001 - Windows Driver Foundation - User-mode Driver Framework - [C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalSystemNetworkRestricted] ---------------------------------- 11 - Windows Express ---------------------------------- 1104 - Graphics Score : 1 ---------------------------------- 12 - Event Log ---------------------------------- ---------------------------------- End of file - 24777 Bytes How old is the computer and what is the PSU?

Discussion

6396.	Solve : motherboard too old??
Answer» is my asus p5e-vm hdmi mb too old to work with EITHER the evga 750 ti or radeon 260x? if it is which gpu should i look into for that mb?Depends on the CPU you are using... if you have a Core 2 Quad then I'd say that its an ok pairing; however obviously a new build would probably be better. If you have a Core 2 duo or lesser of a CPU then the CPU would be a serious BOTTLENECK for the GPU. What CPU are you using? How much RAM and RAM specs? What OS are you using and version?cpu - q9450 ram - 6ram windows 7 professional pioneer dvd drive 80PLUS Certified EarthWatts 380W power supply(came with antec case 2480 years ago) 250gb seagate+1tb seagate Anker® Uspeed USB 3.0 4-Port PCI-E Express Card 1 big fan unerneath dvd drive(front of case) 1 big fan back of pcThose video cards will work on this system; however because the motherboard is not PCI Express 3.0, and might not even be 2.0, its probably 1.1 or 1.0 and so you can find yourself bottlenecked by BUS saturation. Only way around this is to replace the motherboard with one that is 2.0 or 3.0 to have more BUS bandwidth to support the data of the better video card. I'd buy one of the cards as an upgrade and see if its ok for you. If it isnt you likely were going to be buying the video card for a newer build anyways and so its not a waste of money. I have run 3.0 videocards on 2.0 and 1.1 PCI Express 16X slots and they work ok for the games that I play. Most video cards are backwards compatible from 3.0 to 2.0, 1.1, and 1.0 I have a 2009 motherboard that is PCI Express 1.1 and I have a 3.0 card in it and I am getting 60FPS PLAYING most of my games at normal graphics settings but games I play are like Tera Rising, World of Warcraft, Rift, Diablo III, Skyrim, GTA SA, Driver Parallel Lines, Need For Speed Carbon, and Flatout 2. I DOUBT you'd find bus saturation to be much of an issue, you'd be bottlenecked by your CPU before reaching the limits of PCI-E v1. I agree though that either card would be fine for your system, I don't see any issues with that.

Discussion

6397.	Solve : Processor running hot??
Answer» Hey, I'v notesed a change in my computer of late. The Processor cooling fan is 'quiet' and speeds up to cool the processoer when its running hot. all fair enough expecting the processor to be slogging away and needing cooled down however id say the past month, even when running simple programs the fan is increaseing its speed for example just running this browser (firefox) and media player (win MP 11) it seems to be running hot? It never used to get so 'hot' as DEEMED by the fan racing then when i close the browser it will slow down and be quiet again... Iv looked through the processes in the task manager and theres nothing much there, the CPU usage history is down so the processor does not seem to be doing very much and iv run virus scans the lot to check if one was hogging the processor but its not so im not sure whats wrong any IDEAS? My computer is a Compaq Evo D510 SSF 1Gb RAM Intel(r) P4 2.8Ghz 533Mhz system bus It has also slowed down considerably and just wondering if anyone knows what might be wrong? Sodaopen it up and do a DUST check. If the case if full of dust, then that cuts down on air circulation, possible helping that issue. I looked up the system, and it looks like one of those small case deals. "the Evo D510 has no wasted space inside. Although this means the components are tightly packed, servicing is relatively easy." that shouldnt be too much of a problem i hope, and it would seem this is the kind of issue that would LIKELY happen with that case design. The reason behind this is that Intel CPUs throttle themselves back to a lower CLOCK after a certain temperature is reached. Unfortunately for you, Pentium IV chips tend to run hot, I will link you to a temperature monitor that you can download and check your temps with, when i find one. Maximum acceptable temperature for your CPU will be found shortly also.Thanks for the reply, I did a dust check and the whole unit was suprisingly very clean, hardly any dust on the heatsink or the fans... Soda Quote from: sodataxi on May 22, 2007, 07:25:48 PM The Processor cooling fan is 'quiet' and speeds up to cool the processoer when its running hot. all fair enough expecting the processor to be slogging away and needing cooled down however id say the past month, even when running simple programs the fan is increaseing its speed As a fan ages it sometimes will start sounding louder. IOW, everything may be as it was, except the fan is louder. If you think that may be what you are hearing, try running Speedfan. After launching, minimize it to your System Tray and access it as needed to verify temps and fan speeds during these "events". http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

6397.

Solve : Processor running hot??

Answer»

Hey,

I'v notesed a change in my computer of late.

The Processor cooling fan is 'quiet' and speeds up to cool the processoer when its running hot. all fair enough expecting the processor to be slogging away and needing cooled down however id say the past month, even when running simple programs the fan is increaseing its speed

for example just running this browser (firefox) and media player (win MP 11) it seems to be running hot?

It never used to get so 'hot' as DEEMED by the fan racing then when i close the browser it will slow down and be quiet again...

Iv looked through the processes in the task manager and theres nothing much there, the CPU usage history is down so the processor does not seem to be doing very much and iv run virus scans the lot to check if one was hogging the processor but its not so im not sure whats wrong any IDEAS?

My computer is a Compaq Evo D510 SSF
1Gb RAM
Intel(r) P4 2.8Ghz 533Mhz system bus

It has also slowed down considerably and just wondering if anyone knows what might be wrong?

Sodaopen it up and do a DUST check. If the case if full of dust, then that cuts down on air circulation, possible helping that issue.

I looked up the system, and it looks like one of those small case deals.
"the Evo D510 has no wasted space inside. Although this means the components are tightly packed, servicing is relatively easy."

that shouldnt be too much of a problem i hope, and it would seem this is the kind of issue that would LIKELY happen with that case design.

The reason behind this is that Intel CPUs throttle themselves back to a lower CLOCK after a certain temperature is reached. Unfortunately for you, Pentium IV chips tend to run hot, I will link you to a temperature monitor that you can download and check your temps with, when i find one. Maximum acceptable temperature for your CPU will be found shortly also.Thanks for the reply,

I did a dust check and the whole unit was suprisingly very clean, hardly any dust on the heatsink or the fans...

Soda Quote from: sodataxi on May 22, 2007, 07:25:48 PM

The Processor cooling fan is 'quiet' and speeds up to cool the processoer when its running hot. all fair enough expecting the processor to be slogging away and needing cooled down however id say the past month, even when running simple programs the fan is increaseing its speed

As a fan ages it sometimes will start sounding louder.
IOW, everything may be as it was, except the fan is louder.
If you think that may be what you are hearing, try running Speedfan.
After launching, minimize it to your System Tray and access it as needed to verify temps and fan speeds during these "events".

http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

Discussion

6398.	Solve : Any simple way to combine two HDD's into one??
Answer» I have a 300GB HDD, and I just got a 500 GB HDD. I was wondering if there was a simple way, either via software, or some other computer voodoo, to make these tow drives into one. Also, if that could be done without deleting what I already have on them, that would be super. Any help would be greatly appreciated.RAID 0? I think RAID would do that, but I've never tried to set it up before... only thing being, I'm sure that when you combine the 2 HDD's using this method, the capacity is only 2X the smaller of the HDD... so you would end up with 600GB (2 x 300GB) so it doesn't seem that appealing (assuming i'm correct with this, heh) unless there's a necessity for you to do this? Hopefully someone with more knowledge on RAID can enlighten us (me).Okay, barring that, you wouldn't happen to know a way to spread the Windows My DOCUMENTS Folder across multiple disks then would you? I moved My Documents to a different drive than the one the OS awhile back and that worked until I started running low on space. If possible I would like to put the default My Music on one drive and the My Videos on another. That would work as well.That would just be a case of putting the folder on the drive with most HD space and on the other drives, go to "properties" on the My Documents and change the target location to that.You can span the disk into one logical drive But only in Windows XP Pro, 2000 and 2003 Server. Should be able to find out how at Microsoft. com It is called JBOD Just a Bunch of Disk http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_RAID_levels#Concatenation_.28JBOD_or_SPAN.29I think some basic file management steps should be taken as another alternative... If you are filling up My Documents on a 300G HDD or to where it's become unmanageble chances are the OS is probably not running very efficiently as well. What types of files are taking up that much room ? ? Do you have a burner on that machine to create backups ? ? What if that drive FAILED today with all that data gone ? More info on how your machine is setup and perhaps we can offer some suggestions.My OS seems to be running okay. Basically I am filling up my hard drives with music and videos. What may work just as well is to have My Music on the 300 GB and My Videos on the 500 GB. Now I found a place in the registry to change the target for the individual folders, but I wasn't sure if that would be a good move. The reason I need to have them be part of the My Documents thing is because I have and Xbox 360 and a regular Xbox running XBMC, and they seem to only want to find the items I have in My Documents. Of course, any ideas or warnings or other things would be welcome at this point. As far as what I have going on system wise, I will do my best to describe it below... Cable internet runs to a wireless linksys router, from where my computer as well as my Xbox 360 and my Xbox are WIRED into, TWO computers downstairs and a Nintendo Wii that use the wireless. My computer has Win XP Pro SP2 running on a 20 GB hdd, with another 80 GB hdd for all my programs, and then the 300 gb and 500 gb hdd's, with currently everything on the 300 gb (videos, pics, music, etc... but also backed up on the 500 gb). The pics and music are backed up to dvd, about the only thing I would lose is all the movies I have on the hdd, but those are copied from my dvd collection. Uh, I have 1.25 gb of RAM and a Celeron 2.93 Ghz processor. Basically I am wanting to set everything up to be able to watch my movies from any room in the house without having to go hunt down the dvd, or listen to music, view pics, etc... I don't know near enough about networking to do anything really cool, but have somehow managed to Forrest Gump my way through it so far. Anyways, thanks for all the help in advance, and once again, its greatly appreciated.

Discussion

6399.	Solve : Pretty big problem, Computer won't start.?
Answer» Hey guys, I have a pretty big problem. My computer won't start. It's extremely strange. Well, the strange part is that if I have any monitor plugged in to an outlet, and press the on/off button it turns green to say its on, but if I have it plugged into my computer the green LIGHT sits for a second and shuts off. I tried with about 3/4 computers and get the same result, so now I'm thinking the computer is fried. A little history Me and my roommate were pretty big on Civilization 4 and I was playing it one day on my computer, and the screen froze. I shut it off expecting to boot it back up only...it didn't. I was wondering if there are any tips of trying to FIX it, or if I should bring it to a computer repair place. Thanks all. Hey Undertaker < Please tell the guys about your puter* brand .... hardware....monitor/mobo/cpu/ram/ external DEVICES... overclocking? ORIGINAL power supply ? any RECENT changes or modifications or just the game play ? any power outages , bad storms etc..... "recently" give them something to work with * Walks out door to go to work Check this out http://www.fonerbooks.com/video.htm If that doesn't help try a different video card. If you dont have one boot with video card out and then with video card in. Sounds like video card possibly,try on-board video or a different monitor. GL TrapperX Also pull out and reinstall the memory and any other pci cards you may have installed to eliminate chip creep

Discussion

6400.	Solve : Monitor keeps flashing!?
Answer» hi guys, my monitor has been playing up lately.. it FLASHES to black then back to normal black then back to normal i have to turn the monitor on and off a few times in order for the monitor to stay PUT.. what is wrong with my monitor ! its an Compaq LCD 17" thanks!Try reseating the CABLE in both the tower and the monitor. Make sure it's screwed on NICE and tight. And have you tried this monitor on a different COMPUTER? Have you tried a different monitor on this computer?

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